Skip to main content

Full text of "Mrs. Beeton's household management : a guide to cookery in all branches : daily duties, menu making, mistress & servant, home doctor, hostess & guest, sick nursing, marketing, the nursery, trussing & carving, home lawyer"

See other formats 


ir 

•E 


MRS.    BEETON'S 

BOOK    OF 

HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


FISH* 


,.-Red  Mullet.  ^.-Grayling.  3.-John 

6.-Whiting.    7.— Salmon.      8.— Herring.      9- 
12.— Crayfish. 


MRS.   BEETON'S 

BOOK   OF 

HOUSEHOLD 
MANAGEMENT 

A    GUIDE    TO 

COOKERY    IN    ALL     BRANCHES 

DAILY     DUTIES  MAK1V, 

MISTRESS  A  SERVANT  HOME    DOCTOR 

HOSTESS    &    GUEST  SICK    NURSING 

MARKETING  THE     NURSERY 

TRUSSING  &  CARVING  HOME     LAWYER 


NEW     EDITION 

REVISED.    ENLARGED.   BROUGHT   UP  TO    DATE. 
AND    FULLY    ILLUSTRATED 


LONDON 

WARD,    LOCK    6-    CO.,    LIMITED, 
WARWICK    HOUSE,   SALISBURY    SQUARE,   E.G. 

1907 


O- 

^Ljt~4L^u,^t^L 

£.°^."*^ 

'    :f> 


\ 

3^?r  f~Jt~-s  -zfc* 
-^ZC_  £,^/ 

'-5UV.M 

J 

£*~      S*p^*\^ 

/M 


PRKFACE  TO  MAY  KPITION 


f  a  century  Mrs.  Beeton  has  beer, 
and    friend   of   cou: 

::t  "   has 
:  a  bride  .1 
thousands  of  ^ 
useful  gift  of  all.      Many  comj>etitors  com- 

the  utmost  Imi  .  as  of  old, 

!        I'iv^  and   put 

or  romance  of  do 

recorded  its  constant  rescue  of  young  housekeep* •: 
and  \v«.o.      Sir  Art: 
entitl 

usekeeper  in  : 

:  most  com  fort - 

;o  concludes,  that  "  this  book  has  me  : 

to  thi  -ich  thai  " — a  wonderful  t 

when  one  thus  pr.: 

than  80,000  s  .n. 

The  bcKik  of  Household  Mana^  ifl  not,  h( 

thai  Mrs.  Bccton  IK 

•ion  of  o  -cl   by 

Cham 
unalt 

much  ha-  oarance  of 

1  necessa: 
6  brought 
and  i: 


vi  PREFACE  TO  NEW  EDITION 

to  public  notice  has  twice  the  number  of  pages  and  is  four  times  the 
size  of  its  i.  jdest  ancestor. 

» 

It  may  seem  strange  that  a  book,  originally  considered  most  com- 
prehensive and  complete,  should  have  needed  such  transformation. 
The  world,  however,  has  travelled  of  late  at  electric  speed,  and  the 
far-reaching  changes  of  time  have  touched  household  affairs  from 
standpoints  apparently  far  remote. 

In  cookery,  for  example,  where  the  growth  of  our  pages  is  most  notice- 
able, many  causes  have  contributed  to  change.  We  have  relinquished 
almost  entirely  the  old  British  prejudices  against  things  foreign,  and 
adopted,  in  great  measure,  those  French  methods  which  established  a 
bond  of  union  among  good  cooks  all  the  world  over,  long  before  I' entente 
cordiale  became  a  recognized  newspaper  phrase.  Increased  habits  of 
travel  have  taught  us  the^  favourite  dishes  of  other  countries,  while 
improved  means  of  transport  have  brought  to  our  doors  fresh  food 
supplies  from  all  quarters  of  the  earth.  Cookery  schools  and  classes 
have  also  educated  many  mistresses  to  the  possibilities  of  the  art,  and 
encouraged  them  to  insist  on  more  variety  and  delicacy  in  their  daily 
fare  than  the  plain  cook  of  old  was  wont  to  furnish.  In  short,  every 
tendency  of  modern  life,  with  greater  wealth  possibly — greater  luxury 
certainly — is  towards  a  tremendous  enlargement  of  everyday  cookery. 
In  the  present  issue  is  given  all  information  necessary  to  meet  present- 
day  demands  in  this  respect. 

Amongst  the  principal  features  of  our  mnv  issue  are — 

APPEARANCE. — The  book  has  been  re-composed  throughout  from 
a  special  fount  of  new  type,  of  size  and  clearness  to  suit  modern  re- 
quirements, and. printed  on  the  best  English  paper,  and  strongly  and 
artistically  bound  in  half  leather. 

ILLUSTRATIONS. — The  book  has  been  copiously  illustrated  in  the 
most  useful  manner.  Hundreds  of  photographic  reproductions  of 
^actual  dishes,  processes,  and  materials  have  been  included.  No  ex- 
pense, however  great,  has  been  spared  in  obtaining  the  best  possible 
results.  The  numerous  coloured  plates  have  been  faithfully  reproduced 
from  nature,  and  printed  in  fourteen  colours  in  the  highest  style  of 
lithographic  art. 

COOKERY. — All  the  old  cookery  recipes  have  been  carefully  re-test' -d 
and  prices  and  details  altered  wherever  necessary.  More  than  two 
thousand  new  recipes  are  given,  contributed  by  Mr.  C.  Hen. 


PREFACE  TO  NEW  EDITION  vii 

assisted  by  some  of  the  most  famous  cheis  and  teachers  of  the  art  that 
the  world  contains. 

PRICES. — The  cost  of  the  recipes  and  the  prices  of  articles  mem. 
in  this  book  have  been  most  carefully,  minutely,  and  diligently  a\ vraged 
from  lists  compiled  from  the  most  reliable  authorities  all  over  the  k 
dom.     The  task  of  estimating  these  prices  has  been  among  the  most 
difficult  and  perplexing  problems  encountered  in  revising  tl. 
Some  provisions  fluctuate  greatly  in  price  from  day  to  i 
very  great  difference  indeed  exists  between  the  cost  of  purchases  n. 
in  town  or  country,  for  cash  or  for  credit,  by  mistress  or  by  maid,  seK 
personally  or  as  allotted  to  you  to  suit  the  convenience  of  a  tradesman. 

er  a  most  minute  consideration  of  the  factors  involved,  we  tx  i 
the  costs  given  in  our  recipes  should  hardly  ever  be  exceeded 
the  housewife  who  gives  the  trouble  needed  to  buy  in  the  most  advan- 
tageous manner,  will  often  be  able  to  effect  a  very  considerabl 
on  the  prices  quoted. 

.. — This,  a  frequent  difficulty  in  small  households,  has 
carefully  explained  and  illustrated  by  numerous  photographs,  shov 
methods  of  the  best  professionals. 

CARVING. — Our  .mentors  held  a  practical  knowledge  of  this  art 
indispensable  to  the  education  of  every  gentleman*     We  moderns  also 
realize  how  much  a  really  good  carver  can  do  towards 
waste,  distributing  choice  portions  equally,  and  n  ig  the  sightly 

appearance  of  a  joint.     The  art  has  been  thoroughly  dealt  with  and 
y  fully  illustrated  by  a  unique  series  of  photographs  of  the  methods 
of  the  best  profession.il 

SERVIETTES. — The  most  recent  and  popular  designs  are  illustrated, 
and  diagrams  given  showing  clearly  ;iade  in  producing 

se  patter: 

Coi.'  . — This  section  has  been 

mously  increased.     Australian,  American,  Canadian,   South    African, 
German  and  all  foreign  cookeries,  have  been  comprehend 

.It  with,  so  that  Britons  living  under  other  skies  may  learn  how  to 
combine  the  dishes  of  their  adopted  country  with  those  of  the  M<v 
land.     We  at  home  may  also  ^  •  v  in  our  own  menus,  and  learn 

i  complimentary  and  characteristic  repast  when   welcoming 
sts  from  abroad. 


viii  PREFACE  TO  NEW   EDITION 

VEGETARIAN  COOKERY,  which  is  so  strongly  believed  in  and  practised 
by  many  thousands,  has  been  carefully  dealt  with. 

CHAFING  DISH  AND  CASSEROLE  COOKERY,  now  so  popular  with  cooks, 
and  indispensable  in  Flat  life  and  for  all  amateur  cookery  and  impromptu 
meals,  is  dealt  with  in  a  new  chapter. 

THE  MEDICAL  AND  NURSING  CHAPTERS  have  been  contributed  by 
two  of  our  most  eminent  physicians. 

THE  LEGAL  MEMORANDA  has  been  contributed  by  a  well-known 
barrister,  author  of  several  standard  law  books. 

We  take  this  opportunity  of  expressing  our  gratitude  to  many 
eminent  authorities  and  great  firms  for  the  courtesy,  thoroughness, 
and  disinterested  zeal  with  which  they  have  given  time,  information, 
facilities,  and  assistance  to  us,  whilst  engaged  in  our  long,  laborious, 
but  engrossing  task  of  compressing  all  information  of  practical  value  to 
our  readers  into  the  new  "  Mrs.  Beeton." 

It  would  be  out  of  place  in  a  preface  to  allude  to  all  the  many  features 
of  our  new  issue.  Many  are  there,  and  all  the  old  Mrs.  Beeton  as  well. 
For  details,  and  also  because  it  is  easy  in  a  book  of  this  size  to  look  for 
information  in  the  wrong  place,  we  would  ask  our  readers  to  make  use 
of  the  very  comprehensive  index  and  tables  of  contents  furnished  here- 
with. 

All  these  new  features  have  had  one  disastrous  effect  from  the  pub- 
lishers' point  of  view.  The  book  as-  it  now  stands  is  half  as  large  again 
as  the  previous  edition,  and  is  offered  at  the  same  price.  We  believe 
this  to  be  by  far  the  greatest  value  for  money  ever  given  in  book  pro- 
duction. We  can  only  trust  that  this  new  and  enlarged  edition  o 
MRS.  BEETON' S  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT  will  meet  with  the 
same 'hearty  welcome  its  old  and  well-tried  predecessors  have  alway 
enjoyed. 

WARWICK  HOUSE, 

SALISBURY  SQUARE,  E.G. 
1906. 


ABRIDGED  PREFACE   TO  THE  FIRST 
EDIT1' 

;          i  frankly  own  that,  if  I  had  known  beforehand  the  labour  which 

this  book  has  entailed,  I  should  never  have  been  courageous  enough  to 

•no-  it.     What  moved  me,  in  the  first  instance,  to  attempt  a 

work  1  A  as  the  discomfort  and  suffering  which  I  had  seen  brought 

about  by  household  mis-management.     I  have  always  thought  that 

there  is  no  more  fruitful  source  of  family  discontent  than  badly-cooked 

:  s  and  untidy  ways.     Men  are  now  so  well  served  out  of  doors — 

l>s,  hotels  and  restaurants — that,  to  compete  with  the  attra 

se  places,  a  mistress  must  be  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the 

theory  and  practice  of  cookery,  as  well  as  all  the  other  arts  of  making 

and  keeping  a  comfortable  home. 

I  n  tins  book  I  have  attempted  to  give,  in  the  chapters  devoted  to  cook- 
ery, an  intelligible  arrangement  to  every  recipe,  a  list  of  the  tngrtdienti, 
i  the  met  icparing  each  dish,  and  a  careful 

number  of  pfoptf  for  whom  sufficient  t  and  the 

time  when  seasonable.  Friends  in  England,  Scotland.  Ireland,  France 
and  Germany  have  very  materially  aided  me.  .  <  nt  comparison 
\\ith  the  works  :-est  modern  writers  on  cookery  has  also  been 

necessary  to  the  faithful  i  isk.     But  in  the  depai 

belonging  to  the  Cook  I  have  » make  my  work  something  more 

than  a  Cookery-Book,  and  have,  therefore,  given  a  short  account  of  the 
.«•  animals  and  vegetables  which  we  use  as  food.     I 
have  followed  the  animals  from  their  birth  to  their  appearance  on  the 
table  ;  have  described  their  manage  n  lie  various 

methods  of  carving  Meat.  .md  Game.     :^ 

have  designed  the  numerous  drawings  which  illustrate  ma: 
port  ant  and  interesting  items.     The  coloured  plates  are  a  novel  t 
due. 


2  PREFACE 

Towards  the  end  of  the  work  will  be  found  valuable  chapters  on 
the  "  Management  of  Children,"  "  The  Doctor,"  "  Legal  Memoranda," 
which  have  been  contributed  by  a  great  physician  and  an  eminent 
solicitor.  I  wish  here  to  acknowledge  the  kind  letters  and  congratula- 
tions I  have  received  during  the  progress  of  this  work,  and  have  only 
further  to  add,  that  I  trust  the  result  of  the  four  years'  incessant  labour 
which  I  have  expended  will  not  be  altogether  unacceptable  to  some  of 
my  countrymen  and  countrywomen. 

248,  Strand,   1861.  ISABELLA  BEETON. 


GENERAL    CONTENTS 


CHAP. 

I 

II 
III 

IV 

V 

\  I 

Yll 

VIII 

I  \ 


Mil 
\l\ 

\\t 

\\  11 

\\  III 


\\VIII 
XXIX 

cxn 

Mil 
\!V 

.  \\  I 
CVI1 


CEMEATS 


Tin    COOK 

. 
MARK 

>DUCTION  TO  COOKERY 
SOUPS  .... 

RECIPES  FOR  S« 

SAUCES  AND  FORCEMEA' 
KS  FOR  GRAVI 

. 

RECIPES  FOR  COOKINH;  FIMI 
GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  COOKI 
GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ox  «.>  i>s 

:-ES    FOR   COOKP 

r.s  FOR  COOKING  BEEF 

. 

RECIPES  FOR  COOKING  LAMII 
i*ES  FOR  COOKING  MUTI 
GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ox  THE  CO&IM 
RECIPES  FOR  COOKING  PORK 

i  RY.  .... 

r.s  FOR  CV 

GAM 

>K  COOKING  GAME 

r.s  FOR  COOKING  HARE  AND  RABBIT 
NED  AND  PRESERVED  FOODS 

XED  AND  PRESERVED  FOODS 

i  OR  COOKING  VEC.I 

i<\    MAK;- 
Prin 


PAGE 

9 

32 
37 
43 
82 
103 


ALAD    DRI 


559 


661 
669 


799 
812 

«79 


GENERAL  CONTENTS 

CHAP.  PAGE 

XXXIX  THE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT  TABLE  .         .         .                   .1258 

XL  FARINACEOUS  PREPARATIONS           .....    1275 

XLI  MILK,  BUTTER,  CHEESE  AND  EGGS          .          .          ,          .1285 

XLII  RECIPES  FOR  MILK,  BUTTER,  CHEESE  AND  EGGS  .          .    1295 

XLIII     VEGETARIAN  COOKERY   . 1317 

XLIV  INVALID  COOKERY         .......    1344 

XLV  RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY    .         .          .         .          .1350 

XLVI  BREAD,  BISCUITS  AND  CAKES         .         .          .         ..          .1388 

XLVII  RECIPES  FOR  MAKING  BREAD,  BISCUITS  AND  CAKES      .    1408 

XLVIII  GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  BEVERAGES         .         .          .    1465 

XLIX     RECIPES  FOR  BEVERAGES 1473 

L  CHAFING  DISH  AND  CASSEROLE  COOKERY        .          .          .1515 

LI  FRENCH  COOKERY         ,.         .         .         .          .          .          .   1525 

LII  GERMAN  AND  AUSTRIAN  COOKERY           .          .          .          .1534 

LIII     ITALIAN  COOKERY 1550 

LIV  SPANISH  COOKERY      .  '.          .          .          .          .          .          .    1568 

LV  JEWISH  COOKERY           .         .          .          .          .          .          .1571 

LVI  AUSTRALIAN  COOKERY            .          .          .          .          ,          .1579 

LVII  SOUTH  AFRICAN  COOKERY       ......    1588 

LVIII  INDIAN  COOKERY             .......    1599 

LIX  AMERICAN  AND  CANADIAN  COOKERY       .          .         .          .1614 

LX  TRUSSING  POULTRY  AND  GAME       .....    1632 

LXI  HERBS,  CONDIMENTS,  AND  AUXILIARIES           .          .          .    1638 

LXII  GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TERMS      .          .          .          .          .    1652 

LXIII  ENGLISH  AND  FRENCH  NAMES  OF  ARTICLES  OF  FOOD     .    1673 

LXIV  MEALS  :  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT     .         .   1676 

LXV    TABLE  DECORATION 1695 

LXVI     SERVIETTES 1698 

LXVII  MENU  MAKING  AND  SPECIMEN  MENUS     .        .          ,          .1714 

LXVIII  DOMESTIC  SERVANTS  AND  THEIR  DUTIES         .                    .1761 

LXIX     HOUSEHOLD  RECIPES  1790 

LXX  THE  DOCTOR         .                                     '  .                              .    1820 

LXXI  THE  NURSE            .                                        .                              -1879 

LXXII  THE  NURSERY       .                                                                   .1896 

LXXIII  HOMOEOPATHIC  MEDICINE      .                                                 .    1925 

LXXIV  LEGAL  MEMORANDA    .                                                             ,    1933 

ANALYTICAL  INDEX       ...  .   2007 


LIST  OF  COLOURED  PL  Ail  S 

FA 

i.— Red  Mullet,  Grayling.  John  Dory,  Mackerel.  Cod.  Whiting,  Sain 

Crayfish  -         Fn* 

FRUIT,  and    Black    Cl.  hite.  Black  and 

Currants,  Melon,  Strawberries,  Raspberries,  Plums.  Greengages         . 
HOUSEHOLD    UTENSILS. — Bread    Cutter.    Coffee    Roaster,    Carpet    Sweeper. 

.^er  and  Mangle,  Knife  Cleaner,  Spice  Box          .         .  80 

SOUPS. — Mutton  Broth.  Pot-au-Feu,  Tomato  Soup,  Kidney  Soup.  Consonund 
a  la  Celestine,  Consomm6  a  la  Royale,  Bonne  Ft 

Consomme  £  la  Julienne.  Consomme    a  la  Brunoise  .          .        120 

>,  2. — Cral>.  .  Mussel,  Lemon  Sole,  Halibut,  Prawn.  Sturgeon. 

Tr.  Brill.  Escallop.  Lamprey.  Whitebait.  Lobster.  Dover  Sole      aOQ 

,  3. — Oyster  Patties.  Whiting,  Turbot,  Whitebait,  Mackerel,  Mayonnaise 

mon.  Lobster,  Crab 

—Scallops  au  Gratin.  Red  Mullet.  Turbot,  Cod  Steak.  Fried  Sole,  Mayon- 
naise  of  Salmon,  Salmon  au  Nature!,  Brown  Trout.  Smelt 
A  PRIZE  SHORTHORN 

-Toulouse  Pasty.  Fillets  of  Beef.  Beef  Galantine,  Zephires  • 
Mu  Aspic,  Saute  of  Veal,  Chartreuse  of  Pheasant,  «. 

ried  Veal.  Chicken  Medallions.  Veal  Stew 

t  Beef.  Boiled  Beef.  Leg  of  Mutton.  Roast  Ribs  of  Beef 

OWN  WETHER 545 

COLLATION  DISHES. — Pigeon  Pie.  Raided  Game  Pir,  Cutlrts  .v 
Prawns  en  Bouquet,  Cret  rs'  Eggs.  Lain)*  • 

Boued  Capon  .       560 

Pork,  Roast  Haunch  of  Mutton.  Roast  Aitchboi 
it  ton.  Call's  Head.  Ham.  Sirloin  of  1< 

..  Saddle  of  Mutton     ....  608 

BAC.  Streaky.  Prime  Back. 

Flank.  Long  urnon.  Corner.  York  Ham,  Mil  640 

GAME  AN:  — Snipe,  Larks,  Roast  Pheasant,  Roast  1 

Fowl. 
GAME,  i. — Cock  Wulgeon. 

Rabt  i 
GAME,  2.  -d  Pigeon.  Woodcock.  Cock  Wild  Duck.  Black 

:pe.  Pheasants,  Hare.  Teal 
VEGETABLES,  i  •    Potatoes,  Spinach.  Asparagus.  Cauliflown 

Potato*-  :,»«,  Peas,  French  Beans,  Stuffed  Tom.*  800 

VEGETABLES.  2.— Braized  Celery.  Leeks.  Seakale,  Brussels  S;  «1 

and  Boiled  Potatoes,  Parsnips.  Artichokes,  Cabbage,  Braized  «v» 

A  SUPPER  Bur»  Room  or  •  .  897 

SWEETS.— Pancakes.  Rice  and  Apple  Cak« .  -ul- 

din.  l-ruits.  Sugar  Tr: 

Gateau  St.  Honore.  Simmel  Cake 1024 

•  at  Grapes,  Tangerines,  Bananas,  Oranges.  Peaches. 

. 
SM  v  and    Potato,   Macedoine.  m. 

•T,  Salad  Dumas      .  II-M 

1  heddar.  C. 

f  Chicken. 
let.  Mutton  Cutlets  and  (. 

TABLE  

i  R  TABLES  WITH  BUFFET 
NER  TABLE  A  LA  RUSSF.      ....  .          . 

{'ABLE — OLD-FASHIONED  STYLF   ....... 

MENU  AND  \RDS 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


v  FACING 

•  -.."*.£.  PAGE 

THE  KITCHEN          .         .  "      .         .      ,'  •      ,  {.  ',_...   ;'     .  .32 

A  ROYAL  KITCHEN            .          .        ,.         ..             o;  ,•          •  33 

STOVES  AND  COOKING  RANGE    .          .          .    ^    ,  '    ;•;.          ....  44 

COOKING  RANGES     .          .          .          •      •"  •          •          •          .          .          .          .  45 

GAS  COOKING  RANGES      .         .         _.         ......,!               .         .         .         .  52 

COOKING,  ETC.,  BY  ELECTRIC  HEAT   ...          .          .          .  53 

KITCHEN  UTENSILS,  i.     ROASTING  JACK,  ETC.    .     :->  ".  ""••»<        ...  64 

KITCHEN  UTENSILS,  2.     STOCK  POT,  ETC.  .                              ....  65 

KITCHEN  UTENSILS,  3.     ICE  FREEZER,  ETC.         ."        .,].,      ....  72 

KITCHEN  UTENSILS,  4.     CHAFING  DISH,  ETC  .......  73 

KITCHEN  UTENSILS,  5.     PASTE  BOARD  AND  PIN,  F.T\           .          .          .          .  78 

HOUSEHOLD  REQUISITES          ,r      '..    ,  ;vx  ..  ..*                         •          '          •          •  .    79 

MARKETING  GUIDE,  i.     BULLOCK    ;  .          .     3^  .-.               •»         ^          .          .  82 

MARKETING  GUIDE,  2.     BEEF  .          .       ^v>/  -V  '                          .          .          .  83 

SHEEP   Y:      '.    '-'''  •    '  '  V'v'    .        '.     ''.*''".•'  l  '.'.'.  '•/"•.'  .     •;        •          •  88 

MARKETING  GUIDE,  3.     SHEEP           .          .                    .         .     .  •  •         .          .  89 

MARKETING  GUIDE,  4.     MUTTON        .        .^-  ,  •.»:*'..         ...  96 

MARKETING  GUIDE,  5.     PORK  AND  VEAL   .       -  .•      ••  .          ,          .          .          .  97 

FISH,    i.     STEAMED  SOLE,  ETC  .........  296 

FISH,    2.     FILLETS  OF  SOLE,  ETC.      .          .       (  .  .-;-    .»  >  .;:  .;  &-.-..         .         .  297 

FISH,    3.     BOILED  COD,  ETC.    .          .        .;       j,,  ••'••.         .          .          .          .  312 

FISH,    4.     COD  STEAK,  ETC  .....          .         .          .          .          .3*3 

FISH,    5.     EELS  IN  JELLY,  ETC  .........  328 

FISH,    6.     FISH  CAKES,  ETC.     .........  329 

FISH,    7.     RED  MULLET,  ETC.  .          .          .          .          .                    .          .          .  344 

FISH,    8.     SOUSED  MACKEREL,  ETC.  .          .          -                    .          .          .          .  345 

FISH,    9.     SALMON  CUTLETS,  ETC.      .          .  '       .          .          .          .          .          .  360 

FISH,  10.     LOBSTER  CUTLETS,  ETC.    .         ..        "i',?:     .....  361 

FISH,  u.     BOILED  TURBOT,  ETC.       .          .          .  •       ,          .          .          .          .  376 

FISH  ENTREES.     SALMON,  T(>RBOT,  ETC.     .        ;*  .;  ;    .          .          .          .          .  377 

CATTLE  .          .         »         -          .          •          ..••:...'•       .          •          •          •  432 

PIGS        .          .          .          .     -     .'  '  ;  •  i;         .          ......  433 

ENTREES.     MEAT,  GRENADINS  OF  VEAL     .          .         .          .          .          .          .  488 

ENTREES.     COLD  CHICKEN  AND  VEAL  TIMBALES          .....  489 

ENTREES.     FILLETS  OF  BEEF  (PARISENNF)          ...          .          .          .          .  504 

ENTREES.     BEEF  ROLL,  ETC.     .                    .          .          .....  505 

ENTREES.     LAMB  CUTLETS,  ETC.         .      ,   ,         ...          .          .          .          .  576 

ENTREES.     SUPPER  DISHFS       ,        ...      ,,     :    ......  577 

POULTRY         .         .         .         .         .         ....-.-.         .         .  672 

ENTREES.     CHICKEN,  QUAIL,  ETC.      .          .                   .          .          ...          .  673 

ENTREES.     CHICKEN  SOUFFL£  .          .....    .....  704 

COLD  COLLATION  ENTREES        .         .          ....         .         .         .         .  705 

ENTRIES.    CHICKEN  CUTLETS  ,        ,        .        ,        ,      ..        .        .        .744 

6 


LIST  OF  II. I  I'Si  RATIONS 


FA 

PAGE 

IES 745 

76o 

1  RIED  RABBH,  LTC.         ........  761 

\  i           ...........  776 

\TS         .          .          -          .          .          •          •          .  777 

FOODS  :    TINNED  AND  BOTTLKD        .......  792 

>ss,  SHALLOTS,  ETC. 

KBLES,   2.       Ct  CUMBER,  CELERY,   ETC.             ......  808 

.  ;v      WATER  POTATOES,  ETC.  .......  809 

CARROTS,  ETC.        ........  824 

BOILED  POTATOES,  i                  ....                   .  825 

VEGETABLES,  6.                                  FES,  ETC 873 

VEGET.V                   HARICOT  BEANS,  ETC.      .......  873 

..........  888 

889 

PLUM  PUDDING,  ETC.        ..........  968 

.     CANAK\                                   ........  969 

984 

•IIKS        ....                                            .....  985 

\PPLE  AMBER.  ETC.  .          .          .          .          .          .          .          .  1OOQ 

SOUFFLES        ...........  1001 

1016 

COLD  S                                                             ......  1017 

.                                      ...  1032 

r*v       ......                          ...  1033 

r   .            .            .            .            .                                   .            .            .  1048 

.           .           .  1049 

DESSEK:                                                                                       ....  1066 

1067 
1078 

A  SUPPER  TAHI.I                                              .                                                             .  1079 

.:.....                                                            .  i  i  j.. 

- 

. 

iftlLLED    KlPPERS.  ETC.      ....  1IQ2 
. 

S\v».;                                                            ......  iao8 

1209 

VB               .........  1256 

>T!  K 1257 

..    3-     Sot                                                           1238 

CAKVI-.                                                       :,  SALMON         .....  1259 

.  K 1262 

:IEAD  BEIK                  1263 

CARVING,     7                     I266 

CARVIN  AND  LAMB    .          

v  AND  DUCK     

. 

IX,     HARE         ...                                        ....  1272 


8  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING 
PAGE 

ENTRIES.     MUTTON  CUTLETS,  ETC.    .          .          .          ...          .          .  1273 

Cows     .  ....         .         .  .         .         .         .1-288 

FAIR v  BUTTER  AND  OMELET     .........  1289 

CHEESE  AND  EGG  SAVORIES,  i  .  .......  1304 

CHEESE  AND  EGG  SAVORIES,  2  .  .......  1305 

BISCUITS,  i      .          .          ...          .          .          .          .          .          .          .          .  1416 

BISCUITS,  2      ............  1417 

BREAD   .............  1432 

CAKES.     COCOANUT,  ETC.  .........  1433 

FANCY  CAKES  ..........          .  1448 

ROLLS  AND  CAKES   .........          .  1449 

PIPING,  OR  FANCY  CAKE  ICING  ........  1464 

BEVERAGES,  JELLIES,  KTC.         .........  1465 

BEVERAGES     ............  1514 

EARTHENWARE  COOKING  UTENSILS    ........  1515 

TRUSSING,  i.     SECTIONS  OF  FOWL  CUT  IN  HALF          .....  1632 

TRUSSING,  2.     To  DRAW  A  FOWL      .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .1633 

TRUSSING,  3.     FOWL  FOR  ROASTING  ........  1636 

TRUSSING,  4.     FOWL  FOR  BOILING     ........  1637 

TRUSSING,  5.     POULTRY,  GOOSE  AND  HARE        ......  1640 

A  DINNER  TABLE  FOR  Six  PERSONS  ........  1641 

SERVIETTES,     i.     THE  BISHOP  .          .   ""     ......  PAGE  1699 

SERVIETTES,    2.     THE  FAN       .          .          .          .          .          .          .          ...  1700 

SERVIETTES,    3.     THE  BOATS .       ,,  1701 

SERVIETTES.    4.     THE  PALM,  THE  LILY,  AND  THE  CACTUS  .          .        ,  1702 

SERVIETTES,    5.     THE  SLIPPER  .......,,  1703 

SERVIETTES,    6.     THE  PYRAMID         .........  1704 

SERVIETTES,    7.     VARIOUS        .........  1704 

SERVIETTES,    8.     VARIOUS        .........  1705 

SERVIETTES,    9.     THE  ROSE  AND  THE  STAR        .....  PAGE  1705 

SERVIETTES,  10.     THE  FLAT  SACHET  .          .          .          .          .          .  1706 

SERVIETTES,  u.     THE  MITRE  .          .          . 1707 

SERVIETTES,  12.     THE  COCKSCOMB .  1708 

SERVIETTES,  13.     FLEUR  DE  Lis  VARIETIES        ......  1709 

SERVIETTES,  14.     THE  BOAR'S  HEAD          .  1710 

SERVIETTES,  15.     THE  SACHET  .          .  •  .          .          .          ...  1711 

SERVIETTES,  16.     THE  COLLEGIAN     .........  171  _> 

SERVIETTES,  17.     THE  VASE 1713 

COURT  MENUS,  i  .          .          .          .          .          .          .          .          .          .  1720 

COURT  MENUS,  2  .          .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .1721 

TABLE  GLASS 1760 

THE  BUTLER'S  PANTRY 1761 

CHINA  AND  EARTHENWARE,  i    .........  1792 

CHINA  AND  EARTHENWARE,  2    .........  i7<).'» 

A  BREAKFAST  TABLE        .........  1808 

INVALID  FURNITURE          ..........  1809 

NURSING,  i   ".       *.       '.         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  1864 

NURSING,  2  "  . .         .         .  1865 

NURSING,  3     .       '  .         .       "'....         .         .          .         .         .         .         .  1880 

To  CHANGE  SHEETS  .         .         .         .1881 


LEMCO 


Within 
this  jar 


there  is  more  of  the 
real  substance  of  Beef 
— and  a  higher  quality 
of  Beef — than  in  any 
other  Meat  Extract 
jar  of  equal  size. 


Lemco 

The  only 
GENUINE 

LIEBIG  COMPANY'S 
EXTRACT  OF   BEEF. 

LEMCO.  4.  Lloyd's  Avenue.  London  EC. 


The 
Truth 
about 
Cocoa 

is  that  there  is 
little  to  choose 
between 
Cadbury's 
absolutely  pure 
Cocoa  Essence 
and  milk  —  so 

closely  are  they  allied  in  composition. 
For  this  reason 


is  full  of  nourishment  in  an  easily-digested  form. 

Cadbury's    is    liquid    food   of   the    purest    and 
highest  quality,  made  under  ideal  conditions 
of   cleanliness    and    pure    surroundings    in 
the  Garden  Factory  at  Bournville. 


To  face  mailer— Front. 


THE  MISTRESS 

CHAPTER    I 

The  Housewife,  Home  Virtues,  Hospitality,  Good 
Temper,  Dress  and  Fashion,  Engaging  Domestics, 
Wages  of  Servants,  Visiting,  Visiting  Cards,  Parties, 
Etc.,  Etc. 

"  5,  /  honour  are  her  clothing  ;  and  she  sliall  refoii 

•  •e.     She  ope  nc  th  her  mouth  with  wisdom  ;  and  in  her  tongue  is  the 
law  of  kindness.     She  looketh  well  to  the  ways  of  her  household,  and 
wf.  the  bread  of  idleness.     Her  children  arise  up,  and  call  her  blessed  ; 

nsband  also,  and  he  praiseth  her.1' — Proverbs  xxxi.  25-28. 
The  Functions  of  the  Mistress  of  a  House  resemble  those  of  the  general 
of  an  army  or  the  manager  of  a  great  business  concern.      Her  spirit 
will    be   seen    in    the   whole   establishment,    and    if  sh«: 
duties  well  and  intelligently,   her  domestics  will  usually  follow  in  her 
path.       Among     the    gifts    that    nature    has    bestowed  *  on 

ink    higher   than    the   capacity  for   domestic    management,  for 
the  exercise  of  this  faculty  constantly  affects  the  happiness,  comfort 
and  prosperity  of  the  whole  family.      In   this  opinion  we  are  borne 
out   by   the  author  of    The    Vicar  of    Wake  field,    who   says  : — 
modest  virgin,  the  prudent  wife,  and  the  careful  matron  are  much 

Me  in  life  than  petticoated  philosophers,  blusi 
heroines,  or  virago  queans.  She  who  makes  her  husband  an<: 
children  happy  is  a  much  greater  character  than  ladies  describ 

-;e  whole  occupation  is  to  murder  mankind  with  shafts 
the  quiver  of  their  e\ 

The   Housewife. — Although  this  word   may  be  used  to  dcs 
oss  of   a   household,   it    seems    more    fittingly  applied   to 

nallv  ronduct   t!:«  stic    affairs   than  to  ot 

govern  with  the  assistance  of  a  large   staff  of   well-trained 

1  since  1766,  \\  h  wrote  extolling 

virtues  ;    and  ifl    the  change  more  marked   than    in 

o  ;    but    ;i  woman    should  not  be  less   careful    i; 
man,  her  life  because  the  spirit  of  th- 

her   activities  housewives    should    be 

encoura'.ed  to  find  time  in  the  midst  of  domestic  cares  for  the  r< 

social    intercourse  which  are  necessary  to  the  well-being  of 


io  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

all.  A  woman's  home  should  be  first  and  foremost  in  her  life,  but  if  she 
allow  household  cares  entirely  to  occupy  her  thoughts,  she  is  apt  to 
become  narrow  in  her  interests  and  sympathies,  a  condition  not  con- 
ducive to  domestic  happiness.  To  some  overworked  women  but  little 
rest  or  recreation  may  seem  possible,  but,  generally  speaking,  the 
leisure  to  be  enjoyed  depends  upon  proper  methods  of  work,  punctuality, 
and  early  rising.  The  object  of  the  present  work  is  to  give  assistance 
to  those  who  desire  practical  advice  in  the  government  of  their  home. 

Early  Rising  contributes  largely  to  good  Household  Management  ; 
she  who  practises  this  virtue  reaps  an  ample  reward  both  in  health 
and  prosperity.  When  a  mistress  is  an  early  riser,  it  is  almost 
certain  that  her  house  will  be  orderly  and  well  managed.  On  the 
contrary,  if  she  remain  in  bed  till  a  late  hour,  then  the  servants,  who, 
as  we  have  observed,  invariably  acquire  some  of  their  mistress's  charac- 
teristics, are  likely  to  become  sluggards.  To  self-indulgence  all  are 
more  or  less  disposed,\ajiti  it  is  not  to  be  expected  that  servants  are 
freer  from  this  fault  than  the  heads  of  houses.  The  great  Lord  Chatham 
gave  this  advice  : — "  I  would  have  inscribed  on  the  curtains  of  your 
bed,  and  the  walls  of  your  chamber,  '  If  you  do  not  rise  early,  you  can 
make  progress  in  nothing.'  "  Cleanliness  is  quite  indispensable  to 
Health,  and  must  be  studied  both  in  regard  to  the  person  and  the 
house,  and  all  that  it  contains.  Cold  or  tepid  baths  should  be  employed 
every  morning.  The  bathing  of  children  will  be  treated  of  under  the 
heads  of  "  The  Nurse  "  and  "  The  Doctor."  Many  diseases  would  be 
less  common  than  they  are  if  the  pores  of  the  skin  were  kept  open. 

Frugality  and  Economy  are  Virtues  without  which  no  household  can 
prosper.  The  necessity  of  economy  should  be  evident  to  every  one, 
whether  in  possession  of  an  income  barely  sufficient  for  a  family's  re- 
quirements, or  of  a  large  fortune  which  seems  to  put  financial  adversity 
out  of  the  question.  We  must  always  remember  that  to  manage  well 
on  a  small  income  is  highly  creditable.  "  He  is  a  good  waggoner,"  says 
Bishop  Hall,  "  that  can  turn  in  a  little  room.  To  live  well  in  abundance 
is  the  praise  of  the  estate,  not  of  the  person.  I  will  study  more  how  to 
give  a  good  account  of  my  little  than  how  to  make  it  more."  In  this 
there  is  true  wisdom,  and  it  may  be  added  that  those  who  can  manage 
small  things  well  are  probably  fitted  for  the  management  of  greater. 
Economy  and  frugality  must  never,  however,  be  allowed  to  degenerate 
into  meanness. 

A  Judicious  Choice  of  Friends  is  most  essential  to  the  happiness  of  a 
household.  An  acquaintance  who  indulges  in  scandal  about  her 
neighbours  should  be  avoided  as  a  pestilence.  While  ever  attending 
to  the  paramount  claims  of  home,  a  lady  should  not  altogether  neglect 
social  duties.  The  daily  round  of  work  is  much  more  pleasant  if 
cheered  by  intercourse  with  friends,  who  are  often  able  to  give,  or 
pleased  to  receive,  help  in  the  little  difficulties  that  may  occur  in  everyday 
life.  Another  point  of  view  is  that  most  women  look  forward  to  some 


FRUIT. 


12 


i. — Apricots.  2. — White    Cherries.  3. — Black    Cherries.  4. — White    Currants. 

5. — Blac'k  Currants.    6.— Red  Currants.    7, — Melon.    3. — Strawberries.    9. — Raspberries. 
io.— Plums  (Black  Diamonds).      n.— Greengages.       12.— Victoria  Plums. 


THE    MISTRESS  II 

•heir  daughters  in  society,  and  in  this  cherished  hope 
have  e  for  not  abstaining  too  much  from  social  intercourse. 

One  is  apt  to  become  narrow-minded  by  living  too  much  in  the  home 
circle  ;  it  is  not  well  to  get  out  of   tlv  t    meeting  fresh  people, 

important  also  that  children  should  have  the  advantage  of  mixing 
with  other  young  people,  though  of  course  parents  should  exercise 
every  precaution  against  the  evils  of  bad  company. 

Friendships  should  not  be  hastily  formed,  or  the  heart  given  to  every  new- 
comer. There  are  women  who  smile  on  every  chance  acquaintance, 
and  who  have  not  the  courage  to  reprove  vice  or  defend  virtue.  Addison, 

-  that — "  A    friendship  which   makt 

least  noise   is  very  often  the  most  useful  ;   for  which  reason,  I  should 
prefer  a  prudent  friend  to  a  zealous  one." 

The  advice  Shakespeare  makes  Polonius  give  to  his  son  Lacr: 
thoroughly  sound  : — 

iou  hast,  and  their  adoption  t: 
:>lc  them  to  thy  soul  with  hoops  of  steel; 

do  not  dull  thv  ;>.rni  \\  r 
Of  e 

Hospitality  should  be  j  :  but  care  must  be  taken  that  the  love 

of  COK  >cs  not  become  a  prevailing  passion  ; 

such   a    habit    is    no   1 

and  ^iii,  <-rity  in  this,  as  in  all  duties  of  life,  should  be  studied  ;     i 
mgton    1:  <>n  from  the 

i  cannot  be  described,  but  is  i  mined 

•  once  at  his  ease."     A  lady.  e  first 
i'llny  of  a  household,  should  not  attempt  to 

tances  of  her  youth.      Her  true  and  tried 
to  I*-  liglr:  and  the  ii 

she   will    in. ;kc   l>y  likely  by 

moving  to  a  new  local  her  \\itli  ample  society. 

In  Conversation  on  n  the  petty  annoy- 

. ^appointments  of  the  •  ny  people  get  into 

the  bad  habit  of  talking  imes-antly  of  the  worries  of  tl m  servants 
an«l  children,  n«>t    •  r  hearers  thes 

uninteresting   it   n<  -me  subjects.     From  one's  own  point  of 

well   not  to  start  upon  a  topic  without  having  sut: 
ledge  to  discuss  it  with  Important  events,  whether 

v   or  sorrow,   should    be   told   to   i:  apathy  or 

itulation   may  be  welcome.     A  wife  should  never  allow  a  word 
about  husband  t)  pass  her  lips  ;  and  in  conversation, 

she  shouM  1  of  Cowper  continually  in  her  memory, — 

i  should  tlov.  n   tu rally  and  not 

••  As  if  raised  by  more  mechanic  powers." 


12  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

The  secret  of  our  conversation  being  entertaining  or  the  reverse 
consists  mainly  on  our  powers  of  suiting  it  to  the  minds  of  those  with 
whom  we  are  speaking.  With  some  it  is  necessary  to  make  but  little 
effort  for  they  much  prefer  to  talk  themselves,  and  it  is  then  the 
duty  of  the  hostess  to  listen  with  as  much  interest  as  she  can 
command.  Other  people  are  shy,  and  then  a  good  deal  of  tact 
is  required  to  find  out  subjects  congenial  to  them,  for  there  are 
sure  to  be  some  in  which  they  are  interested,  and  it  is  well  for  the  mis- 
tress of  a  household  to  know  a  little  of  the  current  topics  of  the  day. 

Cheerfulness. — We  cannot  too  strongly  insist  on  the  vital  importance 
of  always  preserving  an  equable  good  temper  amidst  all  the  little  cares 
and  worries  of  domestic  life.  Many  women  may  be  heard  to  declare 
that  men  cannot  realize  the  petty  anxieties  of  a  household.  But  a 
woman  must  cultivate  that  tact  and  forbearance  without  which  no  man 
can  hope  to  succeed  in  his  career.  The  true  woman  combines  with 
mere  tact  that  subtle  sympathy  which  makes  her  the  loved  companion 
and  friend  alike  of  husband,  children  and  all  around  her.  Stevenson's 
prayer  is  worth  remembering  :  "  The  day  returns,  and  brings  us  the 
petty  round  of  irritating  concerns  and  duties.  Help  us  to  play  the  man, 
help  us  to  perform  them  with  laughter  and  kind  faces,  let  cheerfulness 
abound  with  industry.  Give  us  to  go  blithely  on  our  business  all  this 
day,  bring  us  to  our  resting  beds  weary  and  content  and  undishonoured, 
and  grant  us  in  the  end  the  gift  of  sleep." 

On  the  Important  Subject  of  Dress  and  Fashion  we  cannot  do  better  than 
quote  :  "  Let  people  write,  talk,  lecture,  satirize,  as  they  may,  it 
cannot  be  denied  that,  whatever  is  the  prevailing  mode  in  attire,  let  it 
intrinsically  be  ever  so  absurd,  it  will  never  look  as  ridiculous  as 
another,  which,  however  convenient,  comfortable,  or  even  becoming 
is  totally  opposite  in  style  to  that  generally  worn."  A  lady's  dress 
should  be  always  suited  to  her  circumstances,  and  varied  for  different 
occasions.  The  morning  dress  should  be  neat  and  simple,  and  suitable 
for  the  domestic  duties  that  usually  occupy  the  early  part  of  the  day. 
This  dress  should  be  changed  before  calling  hours  ;  but  it  is  not  in 
good  taste  to  wear  much  jewellery  except  with  evening  dress.  A  lady 
should  always  aim  at  being  well  and  attractively  dressed  whilst  never 
allowing  questions  of  costume  to  establish  inordinate  claims  on  either 
time  or  purse.  In  purchasing  her  oWn  garments,  «after  taking  account 
of  the  important  detail  of  the  length  of  her  purse,  she  should  aim  at 
adapting  the  style  of  the  day  in  such  a  manner  as  best  suits  the  require- 
ments of  her  face,  figure  and  complexion,  and  never  allow  slavish 
adherence  to  temporary  fads  of  fashion  to  overrule  her  own  sense  of 
what  is  becoming  and  befitting.  She  should  also  bear  in  mind  that 
her  different  costumes  have  to  furnish  her  with  apparel  for  home  wear, 
outdoor  exercise  and  social  functions,  and  try  to  allot  due  relative 
importance  to  the  claims  of  each. 

The  advice  of  Polonius  to  his  son  Laertes,  in  Hamlet,  is  excellent  ; 


THi:    MISTRESS  13 

and  although  given  to  one  of   the    male    sex,  will    equally  apply  to 
the  question  of  a  woman's  dress  : — 

ily  thy  habit  as  thy  purse  ran  l>uy. 
But  not  express' d  in  fancy;  rich,  not  gaudy ; 
For  the  apparel  oft  proci  Man. " 

Charity  is  a  Duty  and  privilege  that  we  owe  to  ourselves  as  well  as  to 
our  needy  neighbours.  There  is,  we  hope,  hardly  any  one  so  poor,  but 
thai  with  a  little  thought  he  can  give  assistance,  in  woik-  it  not  in 
goods,  to  others.  As  a  poet  has  sung  — 

"  Is  thy  cruse  of  comfort 

-»•  and  share  it  with 
And  through   all   t!  ine 

It  shall  serve  thee  and  thy  brother, 

the  heart  grows  rich  by  ^ 
All  its  wealth  is  living  ^i 
Seeds  that  moulder  in  the  K.I: 

the  plain- 
Scanty  food  for  one 

Make  a  royal  feast  for  t 

w<  >rk,  care  and  time  are  however  necessary  if  our  gifts  are 
to  have  the  best  effect.  Fortunately,  the  duty  of  visiting  the  poor, 
whether  in  crowded  city  slums  or  rustic  villages,  was  never  more  widrlv 
recognized  than  at  nt  time.  It  should  not  be  necess. 

urge  all  who  undertake  this  duty  to  lay  aside  any  patronizing  attitude, 
which  may  do  untold  harm.     A  heartfelt  sense  ot 
honest,  self-supporting  jxnerty  is  one  of  the  first  essentials  in  such  work. 
Marketing.     Much  mtormation  for  guidance  and  assi  11  be 

found  in  our  average  price  lists  in  the  chap 
the  observations  before  the  cookery  sections  for  Ii  ,  Poultry. 

it.  etc.     That  the  best  articles  \\ill 

ii   the  long  run,  and  that  the  purchase  of  low  pri»  rd  and 

untrustworthy    sub  hie    articles    should    be    avoided, 

;>e    laid    down  as  fundamental   rules  for    marketing      I1   's  most 

l>le  that  whenever  possible  ress  should  herself  purchase 

all  stores  needed    for    the   home.     Should  the  young  v.  know 

-e  subjects,  a  little  personal  practice 
soon  teach  her  the  best  articles  to  buy  and  the  most  reliable  places  to 

Accounts  of  Household  Expenditure  should  always  ! 

punctually    and     precisely.        The     best     pl.m    for    '  -ehold 

accounts   is    to  lown   in   a  daily   diai  \  .mount,   be   it 

ever  so  small,  spent   each  day  ;   then.  nd  of  a  week  or  month, 

let    these  payments  IK-  ranged    under  their    various  heads  of  Hi: 
.    etc.       Thus  tin-  amount*   paid  to  rat  h  :  -will    b< 

and  any  week's  or  month's  expe;  \\ith   those  of 

another.      The  housekeeping  accounts  sh,,ukl  be   balanced    not 
-once  a  \  liould  be 

the   money    in    h md    .  h  the  account^.     ".My   ad 


I4  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

said  Mr.  Micawbcr  to  David  Copperfield,  "  you  know.  Annual  in- 
come twenty  pounds,  annual  expenditure  nineteen,  nineteen  six, 
result  happiness.  Annual  income  twenty  pounds,  annual  expen- 
diture twenty  pounds,  ought  and  six,  result  misery.  The  blossom 
is  blighted,  the  leaf  is  withered,  the  God  of  day  goes  down  upon  the 
dreary  scene,  and  in  short  you  are  for  ever  floored."  Once  a 
month  it  is  advisable  that  the  mistress  overlook  her  store  of  glass 
and  china,  marking  any  breakages  on  the  inventory  of  these  articles. 

When  a  housekeeper  is  entrusted  with  these  duties,  the  mistress 
should  examine  her  accounts  regularly.  Then,  any  increase  of  expen- 
diture can  easily  be  examined,  the  mistress  will  have  a  regular  check 
upon  her  expenditure,  and  the  housekeeper  who  strives  to  manage  her 
department  well  and  economically  will  know  that  her  efforts  are 
appreciated. 

Engaging  Servants  is  one  of  the  most  important  duties  the  mistress  is 
called  upon  to  perform.  One  of  the  commonest  ways  of  procuring 
servants  is  to  answer  advertisements  or  to  insert  a  notice,  setting 
forth  what  kind  of  servant  is  required.  In  these  advertisements  it  is 
well  to  state  whether  the  house  is  in  town  or  country,  and  indicate 
the  wages  given.  There  are  many  respectable  registry-offices,  where 
good  servants  may  be  hired.  A  good  plan  is  for  the  mistress  to  tell  her 
friends  and  acquaintances  of  the  vacant  place.  A  lady  whose  general 
relations  with  her  domestics  are  friendly,  and  fairly  permanent,  will 
seldom  need  to  employ  any  of  these  methods.  Suitable  applicants 
will  soon  present  themselves  to  fill  the  vacant  places,  generally  friends 
of  the  domestic  who  is  obliged  to  leave. 

We  would  here  point  out  an  error — and  a  grave  one — into  which 
some  mistresses  fall.  They  do  not,  when  engaging  a  servant,  tell  her 
all  the  duties  which  she  will  be  expected  to  perform.  All  the  work 
which  the  maid  will  have  to  do  should  be  plainly  set  forth  by  the 
mistress,  and  understood  by  the  servant.  If  this  plan  is  not  carefully 
adhered  to,  misunderstanding  is  almost  certain  to  occur,  and  may  not 
be  easily  settled. 

Servants'  Character. — It  is  hardly  safe  to  be  guided  by  a  written  one 
from  an  unknown  quarter  ;  it  is  better  to  have  an  interview,  if  possible, 
with  the  former  mistress.  In  this  way  you  will  be  helped  in  your 
decision  as  to  the  fitness  of  the  servant  by  the  appearance  of  her  former 
place.  No  mistress  desires  a  needless  change  of  servants.  The  proper 
way  to  obtain  a  personal  interview  with  a  servant's  former  employer  is 
to  tell  the  applicant  for  the  situation  to  ask  her  former  mistress  to 
appoint  a  convenient  time  when  you  may  call  on  her  ;  this  courtesy 
being  necessary  to  prevent  any  unseasonable  intrusion  on  the  part  of 
a  stranger.  Your  first  questions  should  be  relative  to  the  honesty  and 
general  morality  of  the  servant  ;  and  if  the  replies  are  satisfactory, 
her  other  qualifications  are  then  to  be  ascertained.  Inquiries  should 
be  very  minute,  so  that  you  may  avcid  disappointment  and  trouble, 


THE    MISTRESS  15 

by  knowing  the  v.-eak  points  of  your  domestic.  Your  questions  also 
should  be  brief,  as  well  as  to  the  point. 

In  giving  a  Character,  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  one  should 
;ided  by  a  sense  of  strict  justice.  It  is  not  right  to  recommend  a 
servant  one  would  not  keep  oneself.  The  benefit  to  the  servant  herself 
is  of  small  advantage,  for  the  failings  which  she  possesses  will  increase 
if  indulged  with  impunity.  At  the  same  time,  a  mistress  should  never 
fail  to  do  strict  and  impartial  justice  to  any  merits  of  her  late  servant, 
and  should  always  remember  the  vital  value  of  good  references  to  one 
who  depends  on  her  labour  for  a  living. 

The  Treatment  of  Servants  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  both  mistress 
and  domestics.  If  the  latter  perceive  that  their  mistress's  conduct  is 
regulated  by  high  and  correct  principles,  they  will  not  fail  to  respect 
her  ;  and  if  a  real  desire  is  shown  to  promote  their  comfort,  while  at 
the  same  time  a  steady  performance  of  their  duty  is  exacted,  then 
well-principled  servants  will  be  anxious  to  earn  approval,  and  their 
respect  will  not  be  unmingled  with  affection. 

A  lady  should  never  allow  herself  to  forget  the  important  duty  of 
watching  over  the  moral  and  physical  welfare  of  those  beneath  her  roof. 
Without  seeming  unduly  inquisitive,  she  can  ah  n  sometlr 

their  acquaintances  and  holiday  occupation,  and  should,  when  ; 
sary,  warn  them  against  the  dangers  and  evils  of  bad  company.     An 
hour  should  be  fixed,  usually  10  or  9  p.m.,  after  which  no  servant  should 
be  allowed  to  stay  out.     To  permit  breaches  of  this  rule,  without  having 
good  and  explicit  reasons  furnish  r  from  being  a  kindness 

to  the  servant  concerned.  The  moral  responsibility  for  evil  that  may 
result  rests  largely  on  the  employer  who  permits  late  hours.  Especial 
care  is  needed  with  young  girls.  They  should  be  given  opportunities 
Icoming  respectable  triends  at  their  employer's  house,  and  not  be 
forced  by  absence  of  such  provision  for  their  comfort  to  spend  their 
time  out  of  doors,  often  in  driving  rain,  j^ossibly  in  bad  company. 

Wages  of  Servants. — The  following  Table  of  the  average  yearly  v. 
paid  to  doi  ite  the  expenditure  of  an  estab- 

lishment. The  amounts  givm  will,  of  course,  vary  according  to  ex- 
perience and  localit  .  supply  and  demand.  No  Table 
could  possibly  be  given  which  would  not  be  subject  to  alteration  under 
special  circumstances,  but  taken  as  a  Average  these  payments 
v.Hl  he  appropriate  and  form  as  reliable  a  guide  as  could  possibly  be 
given.  In  most  establishments  such  men-servants  as  coachman,  foot- 
man, and  page,  are  provided  with  livery  by  their  employers.  This 
does  not  affect  the  question  of  wages. 

Whilst  writing  on  this  subje-  t.  we  would  warn  the  youiu;  uite  not  to 
let  mistaken  notions  of  economv  make  her  lose,  for  the  sake  of  saving  a 
t  title  in  wage>.  the  services  of  a  trusted  and  efficient  domestic.  The 
diitei  \pcnse  b<  >od  and  bad  servants  in  a  house  can 

only  be  learned   by  expei  ienre.      A   really   good   servant   can  save  her 


i6 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


employers  far  more  than  her  wages  and  keep  amount  to,  a  bad  one 
would  be  a  poor  bargain  if  she  gave  her  services  for  nothing. 


MEN  SERVANTS. 

House  Steward  .  ''• From  £60  to  £100 

Groom  of  the  Chambers ,  £45    ,,  £55 

Valet : ,  £35   „  £50 

Cook ,,  £100 

Head  Gardener  (not  in  the  house)      ...        „  £70  to  £120 

Under  Gardener „  £40  „  £45 

Butler „  £55   „  £90 

Under  Butler „  £35  „  £45 

Footman ,  £18   „  £40 

Under  Footman „  £18    „   £34 

Second  Footman       .  ,  £18  „    £34 

Coachman „  £40  „  £70 

Coachman  (not  in  the  liou'-e) „  £70  „  £90 

Groom   .   .'.''. .    ..  £25  ,,  £35 

Under  Groom „  £18  ,,  £25 

Page  .      .      „     ...    •..    , .        „  £12   „    £18 

Stable  Boy ,  £6      „    £12 

Servants'  Hall  Boy ,.  £6     „    £12 

Steward's  Boy „  £8      „    £15 

Head  Gamekeeper ,      .      .        ,,  £100  „    £1.^0 

Under  Gamekeeper „  £50    „    £7° 

WOMFN    SFRVANTS  Everything  found,  or  an  allowance 

tor  the  same. 

Housekeeper From  £30  to  £60 

Lady's  Maid „  £25   „  £40 

Cook „  £20  „  £60 

Kitchen  Maid „  £16  „  £28 

Scullery  Maid „  £14  „  £18 

Still-room  Maid „  £18  „  £28 

Head  Nurse ,  £25  „  £35 

Under  Nurse        .  ,  £12  „  £18 

Head  Laundry  Maid j  ,  £22  „  £30 

Under  Laundry  Maid ,  £12  „  £20 

Parlour  Maid ,  £20  „  £35 

Head  Housemaid ,  £20  „  £28 

Under  Housemaid ,  £14  „  £18 

General  Servant ,  £12  „  £28 


These  are  the  wages  that  prevail  in  or  near  the  Metropolis.  The  wages 
of  under  servants  vary  considerably  according  to  locality  ;  and  they 
axe  often  much  lower  in  large  establishments  where  young  servants 
receive  a  good  training  than  in  middle-class  households. 

Number  of  Servants  suited  to  different  incomes. — The  following 
is  a  rough  scale  of  servants  suited  to  various  incomes.  It  is,  how- 
ever, impossible  to  give  any  general  rule  in  these  matters.  Whether 
in  a  household  of  moderate  means  such  as  our  scales  deal  with, 
a  man-servant  is  required,  will  depend  upon  whether  the  house 
is  situated  in  town  or  country,  and  if  the  possession  of  horses  or  a 


THE    MISTRESS  17 

garden  renders  his  services  imperative.  One  should  not  forget  that 
when  heavy  expenses  such  as  those  of  education  have  to  be  incurred 
for  a  family,  this  outlay  must  be  carefully  allowed  for,  before 
committing  oneself  in  other  directions.  Similarly,  where  two  servants 
are  kept,  and  a  nurse  is  required  for  young  children,  it  will  probably 
be  deemed  wise  to  dispense  with  the  services  of  the  housemaid,  and 
arrange  for  the  nurse  to  give  some  help  to  the  cook. 

When  one  is  considering  if  an  extra  servant  is  necessary  or  not,  it 
is  well  to  remember  that  assistance  may  sometimes  be  profitably 
arranged  by  engaging  a  lad  for  two  or  three  hours  a  day  to  do  such 
rough  work  as  cleaning  boots  and  shoes,  working  in  the  garden,  etc. ; 
and,  when  uncertain  whether  to  engage  a  gardener,  one  should  not 
forget  that  a  man  not  coming  more  than  four  days  a  week  does  not 
render  an  employer  liable  to  the  duty  on  man  servants. 

About  ;£i,ooo  a  year.     Cook,  housemaid,  and  perhaps  a  man-servant. 

From  ^750  to  £500  a  year.     Cook,  housemaid. 

About  £300  a  year.     General  servant. 

About  £200  a  year.     Young  girl  for  rough  work. 

Daily  Duties. — Having  thus  indicated  the  pen-  of  a  mistress 

in  the  m<>  nmcnt  of  her  household,  we  will  now  pive  a  few 

instructions   on  practical   details.      To  do   this  m< 
begin  with  the  earliest  duties,  and  set  forth  the   occupations  of    the 
day. 

Before  Breakfast.—  Having  risen  early  and  attended  to  the  (oilet,  sec 
that  the  child'  proj>er  <  are.  and  an  and  com- 

fortable. Tlie  first  meal  oj  the  day,  l>n<akiast.  will  then  be  served,  at 
which  all  the  family  should  be  j. mutually  present,  unless  illness,  or 
other  eireumstances.  prevcn  breakfast  is  over,  the  mistress 

should  make  a  round  of  the  kitchen  and  other  offio  that  all  is 

in  order,  and  that  the  early  nvrnin  has  been  properly  per- 

formed by  the  various  domestics.     The  orders  for  the  day  should 

•ions  which  the  domestics  may  ask  should  be 
and  any  articles  they  require  given  out.     Where  a  house- 
is  engaged,  she  will  of  course  perform   the  above-named  <: 
upt    notice   should   be   taken   of  the   first  appearance  of  slack- 
t.  or  any  faults  in  domestic  work,  so  that  the  servant  may 
know  that  her  mistress  is  quick  to  detect  the  least  disorder,  and  will 
^factory  work.     Small  faults  allowed  to  pass  unreproved 
.  ly  increase.     A  failing  easily  cured  if  promptly  dealt  with,  is 
almost  hopeless  when  it  has  been  allowed  to  develop  into  a  habit. 

After  this  General  Superintendence  of  her  .  the  mistress  will 

probably  have  a  certain  number  of  letters  to  write,  possibly  some  market- 
shopping  to  do,  besides  numberless  small  duties  which  are  better 
in  the  day,  such  as  arranging  the  flowers  for  drawing-room 
and    dinner-table,  etc.      If   she  be   the   mother   of   a   young   family 
there  may  be  some  instruction  to  give  them,  or  some  of  their  wardrobes 


i8  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

to  inspect,  and  needlework  to  be  done.  Time  should  also  be  allotted 
for  reading  and  harmless  recreation. 

If  a  lady  does  much  plain  needlework  a  sewing-machine  is  indis- 
pensable. With  its  help  she  can  make  and  mend  many  articles  used 
by  her  children  and  herself,  and  this  without  undue  fatigue.  The 
assistance  of  such  an  appliance  is  invaluable  in  every  home,  especially 
to  a  mother  of  daughters.  Hand-sewing  is  slow  and  laborious,  and 
unless  provided  with  a  sewing-machine,  there  is  little  inducement 
for  any  one  to  practise  home-dressmaking.  Apart  from  the  valu- 
able experience  gained  in  cutting-out,  fitting,  altering  and  re-making, 
a  great  saving  may  be  effected. 

Luncheon. — In  establishments  where  an  early  dinner  is  served, 
that  meal  will,  of  course,  take  the  place  of  the  luncheon.  In  many 
houses,  where  a  nursery  dinner  is  provided  for  the  children  about  one 
o'clock,  the  elder  members  of  the  family  usually  make  their  luncheon 
at  the  same  time.  If  circumstances  are  not  strongly  against  the 
arrangement,  the  children  of  the  house  should  take  their  dinner  with 
their  mother.  It  is  far  better  for  children  to  have  their  principal  meal  in 
the  company  of  their  mother  and  other  members  of  the  family,  as  soon 
as  they  are  able  to  feed  themselves  properly.  Many  little  vulgar  habits 
and  faults  of  speech  and  manner  are  avoided  by  this  companionship. 
The  mother  can  thus  better  watch  over  her  children's  health,  and 
see  that  their  food  is  properly  cooked,  served,  and  suited  to 
them.  Children  who  are  accustomed  to  the  society  of  their  seniors  at 
their  meals  will  not  be  awkward  or  shy  with  visitors,  or  when  they 
are  staying  from  home.  The  nurse,  likewise,  by  this  plan  is  released, 
for  a  short  period,  from  the  care  of  her  little  charges,  and,  while  she 
enjoys  her  dinner  with  her  fellow-servants,  "waiting  on  the  nurse," 
a  great  objection  with  many  housemaids,  is  avoided. 

Visiting. — After  luncheon,  morning  calls  and  visits  may  be  made 
and  received.  These  may  be  divided  under  three  heads  ;  those  of 
ceremony,  friendship,  and  congratulation  or  condolence.  Visits  of 
ceremony  or  courtesy,  which  occasionally  merge  into  those  of  friendship, 
are  to  be  paid  under  various  circumstances.  Thus,  they  are  uniformly 
required  after  dining  at  a  friend's  house,  or  after  a  ball,  picnic,  or  any 
other  party.  These  visits  should  be  short,  a  stay  of  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes  being  quite  sufficient. 

When  other  visitors  are  announced,  it  is  well  to  leave  as  soon  as 
possible,  taking  care  not  to  give  the  impression  that  your  departure 
has  been  hastened  by  the  arrival  of  the  new  guest.  When  they  are 
quietly  seated,  and  the  bustle  of  their  entrance  is  over,  rise  from  your 
chair,  taking  a  kind  leave  of  the  hostess,  and  bowing  politely  to  the 
guests.  Should  you  call  at  an  inconvenient  time,  not  having  ascer- 
tained the  luncheon  hour,  or  from  any  other  inadvertence,  retire  as 
soon  as  possible  without,  however,  showing  that  you  feel  yourself  an 
intruder.  It  is  not  difficult  to  make  suitable  excuses  on  such  an 


THE    MISTRF.SS  10 

occasion,  and  a  promise  «.vn  be  made  to  call  again,  if  the  lath 

•1  on  appear  really  sorry  that  circumstances  have  caused  you 
Tt^n   your  visit. 

Visits  of  Friendship  need  not  be  so  formal  as  those  of  ceremony. 
It  is,  however,  advisable  to  call  at  suitable  times,  and  to  avoid  staying 
too  long  if  your  friend  is  engaged.  Courtesy  and  consideration  for 
others  are  safe  rules  in  these  every-day  matters.  During  visits  manners 
should  be  easy  and  unstrained,  and  conversation  natural  and  unforced. 
It  is  not  advisable  to  take  pet  dogs  into  another  lady's  house,  for 
there  are  people  who  have  an  absolute  dislike  to  animals  ;  besides  this, 
there  is  always  a  chance  of  the  animal  breaking  something,  to  the  annoy- 
ance of  the  hostess.  1  \  .  t  in  the  case  of  close  friends  or  special  in- 
vitation, little  children  should  not  accompany  a  lady  in  making  morning 
calls.  Where  a  lady,  however,  pays  her  \  isits  in  a  carriage,  the  children 
can  be  taken,  remaining  in  the  carriage  when  the  caller  inters  her 
friend 

It  has  now  become  gcr  >s  of  a  house  to  set  aside  one 

tort  night  or  month,  as  the  cast  .  on  \\hich 

at    home  to  :•  .      Wherever  t  I   to  be  the 

case,  casual  \i  to  call  on  that  day.     It  is 

hardly   necessary  to  add  that   a   lady  should  always  be  prepared  for 

her  to  be 
from  home  on  such  a  day,  she  nv  -illy   inform  all    her   aojuam- 

good  tii  be  spared  a  fruitless  journey. 

:i  a  lady  has  n\ol   i.<  i   "At   Home  -id  cards  have  been 

I  as,  for  example,      M  At  Home  on  W  trom  4 

to   7,"  should    be    provided    by   the    hostess, 

supplies  of  it.  with   thin  bread  -and  -!• 

forthcoming  as  fresh  guest > 

Morning  Calls  demand  good  but  neat  attire,  a  costume  much 
elaborate    than   that   w  :    will    IK*  out  of  ;, 

As  a  general  rule,  it  may  be  said,  both  in  reference  to  this  and  all  other 

ssed. 
A  strict  account  should  be  kept  of  cercmom  and  notice  be 

h«>w  soon  your  via  rned.     An  opinion  ma, 

be  formed  as  to  whether  yoi:  re,  or  are  not,  desirable. 

are.   naturally,  instances  1:1  \\hieh   fcl  instances  of  old  age 

or  ill-health  will  preclude  any  return  of  a  call  ;   but  when  this  is  the 

case,  it  must    not    interrupt  the  discharge  of  the  duty  by  those  who 

no  such  excuses  t 

In  all  \  i  air  acquaintance  or  friend  be  not  at  home,  a  card 

should  IK-  left.      If  you  are  in  a  carriage,  the  servant  will  answer  your 
in<jui;  4t    \\aiting  for  you  to  alight  ,    if 

>n  foot,  g;  card  to  the  servant  who  .  ; 

the  door.     The  form  01  may  be  understood 

ises  ;  but  the  only  courtcou  <em  as 


20  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

being  perfectly  true.  You  may  imagine  that  the  lady  of  the  house  is 
really  at  home,  and  that  she  would  make  an  exception  in  your  favour, 
or  you  may  think  that  your  call  is  not  desired  ;  but,  in  either  case,  not 
the  slightest  word  is  to  escape  you  which  would  suggest,  on  your  part, 
such  an  impression. 

Visits  of  Condolence  should  be  paid  within  a  week  after  the  event  which 
occasions  them.  If  the  acquaintance,  however,  is  but  slight,  they 
should  not  be  made  until  immediately  after  the  family  has  appeared 
in  public.  A  lady  should  send  in  her  card,  and,  if  her  friends  be  able 
to  receive  her,  the  visitor's  manner  and  conversation  should  be 
subdued,  and  in  harmony  with  the  character  of  her  visit.  Visitors 
paying  visits  of  condolence  should  be  dressed  in  black,  or  at  any  rate 
very  quietly.  Sympathy  with  the  affliction  of  the  family  is  thus 
expressed. 

Receiving  Morning  Calls. — The  foregoing  description  of  the  etiquette 
to  be  observed  in  paying  them  will  apply  to  the  receiving  of  calls.  It 
is  to  be  added,  however,  that,  generally  speaking,  all  occupations 
should  be  suspended  on  the  entrance  of  morning  visitors.  If  a  lady, 
however,  be  engaged  with  light  needlework,  she  may  continue  it  quietly 
during  conversation,  particularly  if  the  visit  be  protracted. 

Formerly  the  custom  was  to  accompany  all  departing  visitors  to  the 
door  of  the  house,  and  there  take  leave  of  them ;  but  modern 
society,  which  dispenses  with  a  great  deal  of  this  kind  of  ceremony,  now 
merely  requires  that  the  lady  of  the  house  should  rise  from  her  seat, 
shake  hands,  or  bow,  and  ring  the  bell  to  summon  the  servant  to  attend 
them  and  open  the  door.  In  making  a  first  call,  either  upon  a  newly- 
married  couple  or  on  persons  newly  arrived  in  the  neighbourhood,  a 
lady  should  leave  her  husband's  card,  together  with  her  own,  at  the 
same  time  stating  that  the  profession  or  business  in  which  he  is 
engaged  has  prevented  him  from  having  the  pleasure  of  paying  the 
visit  with  her.  It  is  a  custom  with  many  ladies,  when  on  the  eve  of 
an  absence  from  their  neighbourhood  to  leave  or  send  their  own  and 
husband's  cards,  with  the  letters  P.  P.  C.  in  the  right-hand  corner. 
These  letters  are  the  initials  of  the  French  words  Pour  prendre  conge, 
meaning  "  To  take  leave." 

Visiting  Cards  and  Invitations. — The  fashion  of  visiting  cards  used 
to  vary  much,  some  being  made  extremely  thin,  but  those  of  medium 
thickness  are  now  usually  preferred.  When  calling  at  a  house,  it 
used  to  be  customary  to  turn  up  the  lower  right-hand  corner  of  the 
card,  to  denote  that  a  personal  call  had  been  made,  but  this  is  not 
general  any  longer.  Tennis  and  croquet  invitations  are  issued  with 
the  word  at  the  bottom  right-hand  corner.  For  Soirees,  "  At  Homes," 
Conversaziones,  Dinners  and  Balls,  invitation  cards  are  used  ;  but 
for  Weddings  the  invitations  are  issued  upon  notepaper.  Gilt  edges 
and  gilt  decorations  are  not  often  used  nowadays,  nor  is  the  mono- 
gram, or  crest,  or  both  frequently  embossed  at  the  head  of  the  paper. 


THE    MISTRESS  21 

It  is  customary  at  many  houses  during  summer  to  give  tennis  or 
croquet  teas.  The  meal  is  very  informal,  and  often  served  out  of 
doors.  Iced  tea,  coffee,  claret-cup,  etc.,  are  served,  with  sandwiches, 
pastry,  cakes  and  other  light  viands.  The  tables  are  set  under 
shady  trees,  and  a  couple  of  servants  or  members  of  the  family  are  in 
attendance  at  them,  the  visitors  themselves  going  to  the  table  for  \\hat 
they  may  want.  The  following  is  a  form  for  wedding  invitations  : — 


Mr.    and    Mrs.    A request    the 

pleasure    of     Mr.    and    Mrs.    B 's 

company  on  the  occasion  of  the  marriage 
of  their  daughter  Alice    with    Fn\: 
<$ 

Ceremony  on  Wednesday,  14  June,  at 

Church,  at  —  o'clock,  and  a/tetwards 

at . 

R.S.V.P. 


The  morning  calls  having  been  paid  or  received,  and  their  etiquette 
properly  attended  to,  the  next  great  event  of  the  day  in  most  estab- 
lishments is  "  The  Dinner  "  ;  and  we  will  only  make  a  few  &« 
remarks  on  tlu's  important  subject  here,  as  in  future  pages  the  wl.de 
"  Art  of  Dining  "  will  be  thoroughly  considered,  with  reference  io  its 
economy,  comfort  and  enjoyment. 

Invitations  for  Dinner.     In  giving  these  it  is  usual  to  give  from  a 

8  to  three   weeks'  nut  ice,    and    luimal   ones  a. 
cards,  such  as  the  following — 


request  the  pleasure  of 


company  at  dinner 

on the at o'clock. 

HOWARD  HOUSE. 

KENSINGTON,  \V.  R.S.V.P. 


22  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

In  accepting  an  invitation  the  form  of  words  used  is- 


have  much  pleasure  in  accepting 


kind  invitation  for 


while  in  declining  one  it  is  usual  to  say — 


regret  they  are  unavoidably  prevented 
{or  that  a  previous  engagement  prevents 
them]  from  accepting 

kind  invitation  for 


Before  the  Dinner. — A  dinner-party,  in  an  establishment  where  such 
an  event  is  of  rare  occurrence,  is  apt  to  cause  great  anxiety  to  the  in- 
experienced hostess,  particularly  when  she  cannot  place  full  reliance 
in  the  training  and  capabilities  of  her  servants.  But,  whatever  her 
fears  of  disaster  may  be,  she  must  meet  her  guests  with  a  bright  and 
cheery  welcome. 

In  giving  any  entertainment  of  this  kind,  the  hostess  should  endeavour 
to  make  the  guests  enjoy  the  time  spent  under  her  roof,  and  the  guests 
themselves  should  remember  that  they  have  come  with  the  object  of 
mutual  entertainment.  An  opportunity  is  thus  given  to  all  for  innocent 
pl3asure  and  intellectual  intercourse,  in  the  course  of  which  pleasant 
and  valuable  friendships  may  be  formed  and  information  acquired 
that  may  prove  useful  through  life.  Many  celebrated  men  and  women 
have  been  great  talkers  ;  and  one  may  recall  the  genial  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  who  would  speak  freely  to  any  one,  and  was  wont  to  say  that 
he  never  did  so  without  learning  something. 

With  respect  to  the  number  of  guests,  it  has  often  been  said,  that  a 
private  dinner-party  should  consist  of  not  less  than  the  number  of  the 
Graces,  or  more  than  that  of  the  Muses.  A  party  of  ten  or  twelve  is, 


THE  MISTRESS  23 

perhaps,  as  a  general  rule,  sufficient  for  enjoyment.  Gloves  are  worn 
by  ladies  at  dinner-parties,  but  should  be  taken  off  before  the  actual 
meal  begins. 

Going  to  Dinner. — Dinner  having  been  announced,  the  host  offers  his 
arm  to,  and  places  on  his  right  hand  at  the  dinner-table,  the  lady  to 
whom  he  desires  to  pay  most  respect,  either  on  account  of  her  age, 
position,  or  because  she  is  the  greatest  stranger  in  the  party.  If  this 
lady  be  married  and  her  husband  present,  the  latter  takes  the  hostess 
— who  always  enters  the  dining-room  last — to  her  place  at  table,  and 
seats  himself  at  her  right  hand.  The  rest  of  the  company  follow  the 
host  in  couples,  as  specified  by  the  master  or  mistress  of  the  house,  the 
whole  party  being  arranged  according  to  their  rank  and  other  circum- 
stances which  may  be  known  to  the  host  and  hostess. 

Guest  Cards. — It  will  be  found  of  great  assistance  to  the  placing  of  a 
party  at  the  dinner-table,  to  have  the  names  of   the  guests  neatly 
written  on  small  cards  called  "  Guest  cards  "  and  placed  at  that  part  of 
the  table  where  it  is  desired  the  several  guests  should  sit.     It  is  a 
matter  of  taste  what  cards  should  be  used  for  this  purpose ;  small  plain 
ones  are  perfectly  admissible,  but  those  with  gold,  silver  or  coloured 
borders  are  more  effective  and  show  more  distinctly,  laid  as  tin 
upon  cither  white  table  cloths  or  serviettes.      Some  with  floral  orna 
.tion    are    frequently    used.      Sometimes    the    menu    card    is  a 
double  one,  which  folds  like  a  ball  programme,  and  upon  the  ou 
of  this  the  guest's  name  is  written. 

The  Dinner  d  la  Russe,  introduced  into  England  about  the  middle 
of  the  nineteenth  century,  has  now  lace  of  the  old 

custom  of  having  all  the  dishes  served  from  the  table.     The  t>«. 
of  dinner  is  fully  dealt  with  in  subsequent  pages. 

Dessert.— When  dinner  is  finished,  the  dessert  is  placed  on  the  ' 
accompanied  by  finger-glasses,  in  which  the  tips  of  the  fingei 
dipped  after  the  fruit  or  sweetmeats  of  this  c«  been  ta! 

Leaving  the  Dinner  Table.— When  fruit  has  been  taken,  and  a  glass  or 
two  of  wine  passed  round,  the  time  will  ha  i  \vhen  the  hostess, 

after  catching  the  eye  of  the  lady  first  in  precedence,  rises,  and  gives  her 
guests  the  signal  to  retire  to  the  drawing-room.  The  gentlemen  will 
rise  at  the  same  time,  and  the  one  nearest  the  door  open  it  for  the  ladies, 
all  courteously  standing  until  the  last  lady  has  withdrawn. 

In  former  times,  when  the  bottle  circulated  freely  amongst  the  guests, 
the  ladies  retired  earlier  than  they  do  at  present.  Thanks,  however, 
to  the  changes  time  has  wrought,  strict  moderation  is  now  invariable 
amongst  gentlemen,  and  they  now  take  but  a  brief  interval  for  tobacco. 
talk,  and  coffee,  before  they  rejoin  the  ladies. 

After-dinner  Invitations,  by  which  we  mean  invitations  for  the  evening, 
may  be  -ivm.  The  time  of  arrival  ol  :tors  will  vary  nco'vdin;,' 

to  their  engagements,  or  son:  -thence  to  the 

caprices  of  fashion.     Guests  invited  for  the  evening  arc,  li  encr- 


24  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

ally  considered  at  liberty  to  arrive  whenever  it  will  best  suit  themselves 
— usually  between  nine  and  twelve,  unless  earlier  hours  are  specifically 
named.  By  this  arrangement,  those  who  have  numerous  engagements 
to  fulfil,  can  contrive  to  make  their  appearance  at  two  or  three  parties 
in  the  course  of  one  evening. 

Ball  or  Evening  Party  Etiquette. — The  etiquette  of  the  dinner-party 
table  being  disposed  of,  let  us  now  enter  into  that  of  an  evening 
party  or  ball.  The  invitations  for  these  are  usually  on  "At  Home  " 
cards,  filled  in  with  the  name  and  address  of  the  sender  and  the  date 
of  the  invitation,  with  the  word  "  Dancing  "  or  "  Music,"  as  the  case 
may  be,  in  one  corner.  They  should  be  sent  out  about  three  weeks 
before  the  day  fixed  for  the  event,  and  should  be  replied  to  within  a 
week  of  their  receipt.  By  attention  to  these  courtesies,  the  guests 
will  have  time  to  consider  their  engagements,  and  prepare  their  dresses, 
and  the  hostess  will  learn  in  good  time  the  number  of  guests  likely  to 
be  present. 

Short  or  verbal  invitations,  except  to  relatives  or  close  friends,  are 
not,  formally  speaking,  correct,  but,  of  course,  very  much  depends  on 
the  circumstances  under  which  the  invitation  is  given.  Social  forms, 
while  never  allowed  to  become  a  fetish,  should  not  be  altogether  neg- 
lected even  among  close  friends  and  relatives,  for  unintentional 
neglect  of  a  customary  formality  may  be  misunderstood  and  strain 
a  valued  friendship. 

Arrival  of  Guests. — Visitors  on  arrival  should  be  shown  to  a  room 
exclusively  provided  for  their  reception  ;  and  in  that  set  apart  for  the 
ladies,  attendants  should  be  in  waiting  to  assist  those  ladies  who  may 
require  help.  It  will  be  found  convenient,  where  the  number  of  guests 
is  large,  to  provide  numbered  tickets,  so  that  they  can  be  attached  to 
the  cloaks  and  wraps  of  each  visitor  ;  a  duplicate  of  the  ticket  should 
be  handed  to  the  guest.  Tea  and  coffee  is  provided  in  an  ante-room, 
for  those  who  would  like  to  partake  of  it. 

Introductions. — The  lady  of  the  house  usually  stands  at  the  door  of 
the  drawing-room  to  receive  her  guests.  She  may  introduce  some  of 
them  to  others,  where  she  may  imagine  mutual  acquaintance  will  be 
suitable  and  agreeable.  It  is  very  often  the  practice  of  the  master  of 
the  house  to  introduce  one  gentleman  to  another,  but  occasionally  the 
lady  performs  this  office. 

The  custom  of  non-introduction  is  very  much  in  vogue  in  many  houses, 
and  guests  are  thus  left  to  discover  for  themselves  the  position  and 
qualities  of  the  people  around  them.  The  servant,  indeed,  calls  out 
the  names  of  all  the  visitors  as  they  arrive,  but,  in  many  instances,  mis- 
pronounces them  ;  so  that  it  will  not  be  well  to  follow  this  information, 
as  if  it  were  an  unerring  guide.  But  the  gentleman  is,  of  course, 
introduced  by  either  host  or  hostess  to  the  lady  whom  he  is  to  take  in 
to  dinner. 

Refreshments. — A  separate  room  or  buffet  should  be  set  apart  for 


Til  TRESS 

refreshments.  A  supper  is  also  often  provided  at  private  parties  ;  and 
equires,  on  the  part  of  the  hostess,  a  great  deal  of  attention  and 
supervision.  It  usually  takes  place  between  the  first  and  second 
parts  of  the  dances  arranged.  Programmes  of  these  dances  are 
printed  in  various  forms,  and  have  pencils  attached.  The  monogram 
of  the  hostess,  or  the  name  of  the  house,  with  the  date  of  the  party, 
frequently  heads  these  programmes. 

At  Private  Parties,  a  lady  should  not  refuse  the  invitation  of  a  gentle- 
man to  dance,  unless  she  be  previously  engaged.  The  hostess  must  be 
supposed  to  have  asked  to  her  house  only  those  persons  whom  she  knows 
to  be  of  good  character,  as  well  as  fairly  equal  position  ;  hence  to  d«. -i  line 
the  offer  of  any  gentleman  present  would  be  a  tacit  reflection  on  tl.o 
master  and  mistress  of  the  house.  It  may  be  mentioned  here  that  an 
introduction  at  balls  or  evening  parties  does  not  necessanh 
subsequent  acquaintanceship,  no  introduction,  at  these  times.  -i\ing  a 
gentleman  a  right  afterwards  to  address  a  lady.  She  is  consequently 

A  xt  morning  to  pass  her  partner  at  a  ball  of  the  previous  e\ 
without  the  slightest  recognition,  if  she  prefers  to  do  so. 

Dancing. — The  ball  is  generally  opened  by   the  lady  of  the   house, 
load  off  the  dance  with  the  lady  highest  in 

rank  of  those  present  or  the  greatest  stranger,  it  will  be  well  for  the 
hostess,  even  if  she  is  an  ardent  and  accomplished  dancer,  not  to  indulge 
in  the  art  to  an  unlimited  extent,  as  the  duties  of  entertaining  make 

lerable  demands  on  her  attention  and  time.     A  i 
suffice  to  show  that  she  shares  in  the  pleasures  of  the  evening. 

The  hostess  and  host,  during  the   progress  of  a  ball,  will   chat  with 
their  friends,  and  take  care  the  ladies  are  furnished  with  seats,  and  that 
those  who  wish  to  dance  arc  provided  with  partners,     A  gentl- 
from  the  hostess  that  a  lady  lacks  a  partner  during  several  dances,  is 
;i  not  to  be  neglected  by  a  ,.     In  this  way  the  com- 

fort and  enjoyment  of  the  guests  can  be  promoted,  and  n- 
;oncc  the  sensation  of  being  a  wallfl.  ughout  t! 

other  cares,  the  mistress  has  frequently  the  added  duties  of 

a  chaperon  either  of  her  own  or  some  friend's  daughters.      Without 

ilations,  or   preventing   the  enjoyment  of  her 

charges,  she  must  be  able  to  ensure  their  doing  nothing  that  is  cither 
oulrt  or  in  bad  form.  At  a  ball  she  will  take  special  care  that  her 
charges  always  know  where  to  find  her,  though  no  reasonable  chaperon 
will  expect  a  girl  to  be  always  with  her. 

Departure. — \\  of  the  carriages  ate  announced,  or  the  time  for 

of  the  guests  arrives,  they  should  bid  farewell  to  the 
hostes  it  attracting  the  attention  of  the  other  guests  to  tin  ir 

departure      It  this  cannot  be  done  without  creating  too  much  bu>tl<-. 
it  will  K>  better  for  the  visitors  to  retire  quietly  without  taking 
\Vit!i!-i  i  the  entertainment,  the  hostess  should  i« 

from  every  guest  a  call,  where  possible,  or  cards  expressing  thegratinca- 


26  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

tion  experienced  from  her  entertainment.  To  neglect  such  an  obvious 
duty  is  an  offence  against  all  social  rules 

Having  shortly  treated  different  forms  of  social  gatherings,  we  now 
return  to  the  ordinary  routine  of  the  household,  though  all  the  details 
we  have  given  of  dinner  parties,  balls,  etc.,  belong  to  the  department 
of  the  mistress.  Without  a  knowledge  of  the  etiquette  to  be  observed 
on  these  occasions,  a  mistress  would  be  unable  to  enjoy  and  appreciate 
those  friendly  meetings  which,  giving  a  pleasant  change,  make  the 
quiet,  happy  life  of  an  English  gentlewoman  the  more  enjoyable.  In 
their  proper  places,  all  that  is  necessary  to  be  known  respecting  the 
dishes  and  appearance  of  the  breakfast,  dinner,  tea,  and  supper  tables 
will  be  set  forth  in  this  work. 

Home  Gatherings  are  more  frequent  and  more  important  than  social 
entertainments.  Both,  however,  have  to  be  studied  with  a  view  to 
efficiency,  enjoyment  and  economy.  These  points  will  be  dealt  with 
in  the  pages  on  "  Cookery."  Here  we  will  only  say,  that  for  both  mis- 
tress and  servants,  it  will  be  found  wise  to  cook  and  serve  the  dinner, 
and  to  lay  the  tablecloth  and  the  sideboard,  with  the  same  cleanliness, 
neatness  and  scrupulous  exactitude,  whether  it  be  for  the  family,  or  for 
"  company."  If  this  be  strictly  adhered  to,  the  details  of  work  will 
become  as  second  nature  to  all  energies,  and  the  trifling  extra  trouble 
entailed  is  amply  repaid  by  the  increased  efficiency  of  servants,  the 
feeling  that  one  is  always  prepared  for  any  chance  callers,  and  the  moral 
stimulus  that  is  given  by  having  all  things  done  decently  and  in  order. 

Evenings  at  Home  should  form  a  pleasant,  improving  and  restful 
portion  of  the  daily  round.  Few  hours  of  the  day  present  more  oppor- 
tunities for  forming  and  strengthening  good  habits  and  tendencies 
among  the  young.  In  many  homes  this  is  the  only  time  when  the  busy 
father  has  the  opportunity,  and  the  mother  the  leisure,  to  share  in  the 
pursuits  and  pastimes  of  their  children.  If  children  do  not  find  pleasure 
at  home  they  will  seek  it  elsewhere,  often  in  undesirable  directions. 
Hence  it  should  form  part  of  the  settled  domestic  policy  of  every  parent 
to  make  children  feel  that  home  is  one  of  the  happiest  places  in  the 
world,  thus  cultivating  in  them  an  attachment  to  home  interests  that 
may  prove  an  invaluable  safeguard  in  the  crucial  years  of  their  youth. 
With  this  object  in  view  all  innocent  games  and  pastimes  should  be 
encouraged  ;  the  young  collector,  naturalist,  carpenter  or  engineer 
should  be  helped  in  his  interesting  and  instructive  hobbies.  Games 
of  skill,  like  chess  and  draughts,  which  have  an  educational  value, 
should  be  introduced  and  opportunity  given  for  cricket,  cycling,  walk- 
ing, hockey  and  healthy  sport,  whilst  children  who  show  any  talent  for 
music,  drawing,  modelling,  composition,  etc.,  should  know  that  a 
keen  interest  is  taken  in  their  pursuits. 

Fancy  needlework  often  forms  a  portion  of  the  evening's  recreation 
for  the  ladies  of  the  household,  and  this  may  be  made  more  pleasant 
by  reading  aloud  some  standard  work,  whether  of  instruction,  humour, 


THE    MISTRESS  27 

6r  romance,  and  there  is  no  greater  safeguard  against  those  low-class 
and  pernicious  publications,  which,  alas !  abound,  than  an  early 
acquaintance  with  the  real  masterpieces  of  literature. 

Retiring  for  the  Night. — It  is  well  to  remember  that  early  rising  is  almost 
impossible  if  retiring  to  rest  at  a  late  hour  is  the  practice  of  the 
household.  The  younger  members  of  a  family  should  go  early  and  at 
regular  hours  to  their  beds,  and  the  domestics  as  soon  as  possible  after 
a  reasonably  appointed  hour.  Either  the  master  or  the  mistress  of  a 
house  should,  after  all  have  gone  to  their  separate  rooms,  see  that  all  is 
right  with  respect  to  lights  and  fires  below  ;  and  no  servants  should  on 
any  account  be  allowed  to  remain  up  after  the  heads  of  the  house  have 
retired. 

Having  thus  dealt  with  daily  routine  from  rising  at  morning  to 
retiring  at  night,  there  remain  only  now  to  be  considered  a  few 
matters,  respecting  which  the  mistress  of  the  house  may  be  glad  to 
receive  information. 

When  taking  a  House  in  a  new  locality,  it  will  be  etiquette  for  the 
mistress  to  wait  until  the  older  inhabitants  of  the  neighbourhood  call 
upon  her,  thus  evincing  a  desire,  on  their  part,  to  become  acquainted 
with  the  new-comer.  It  may  be,  that  the  mistress  will  desire  an  inti- 
mate acquaintance  with  but  few  of  her  neighbours  ;  but  it  is  to  be 
specially  borne  in  mind  that  all  visits,  whether  of  ceremony,  friendship, 
or  condolence,  should  be  punctiliously  returned,  though  some  time 
may  be  allowed  to  elapse  in  the  case  of  undesirable  acquaintance. 

Letters  of  Introduction. — You  may  perhaps  have  been  favoured  with 
letters  of  introduction  from  some  of  your  friends,  to  persons  living 
in  the  neighbourhood  to  which  you  have  just  come.     In  this    case, 
enclose  the  letter  of  introduction  in  an  cnvelojx?,  with  your  card, 
if  the  person  to  whom  it  is  addressed  call  in  the  course  of  a 
the  visit  should  be  returned  by  you  within  the  week,  if  ]x>ssiblc.      1'   ifl 
now  more  usual  to  write  by  the  post  and  introduce  a  friend,  instead  of 
leaving  everything  to  be  said  by  the  letter  that  is  gr 

In  the  event  of  your  being  invited  to  dinner  under  the  above  cir- 
cumstances, nothing  but  necessity  should  ;  you  from  accepting 

the  invitation.  If,  however,  there  is  some  distinct  reason  why  you 
cannot  accent,  let  it  be  stated  frankly  and  plainly.  An  opportunity- 
should,  also,  be  call  in  the  c«  a  day  or  two,  in  order  to 
express  your  regret  that  untoward  circu;  -  have  made  it  im- 
possil  -u  to  l»e  | nvsent. 

In  Giving  a  Letter  of  Introduction,  it  should  always  !>••  handed  to  your 
friend  uir-altd.  Courtesy  tii< .  i..  uhoin  you  are 

introducing  would,  perhaps,  wish  to  know  in  what  inaniu-s 

i.oken  of.     Should  you  receive  a  letter  from  a  friend,  introducing 
•rson  known  to  and  r-.io  imd  1>\    tin-  \\iu.i.  the  letter 

:r  willingness  e\j 
to  do  all  in  your  power  to  carry  out  his  or  her  wishes. 


28 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


Order  and  Punctuality  are  so  important  to  the  comfort  and  happiness 
of  the  household  that  every  mistress  should  fix  stated  hours  for  meals, 
etc.,  which  ought  to  be  strictly  observed  by  every  member  of  the 
family. 


ORDER  OF  THE  HOUSEHOLD 

fHorning  Drapers,  8.45  A.M. 

"  Forsake  not   the   assembling  of  yourselves 
together." 

MEALS. 
Breakfast  (Kitchen  &  Nursery)  .      8a.m. 

,,         (Dining-Room)      .         .     8.30,, 
Kitchen  Dinner      .         .        .        12.30  p.m. 

Luncheon 1.30  ,, 

Kitchen  and  Nursery  Tea  .         .5        M 

Dinner 6.30,, 

Kitchen  Supper    .        .        .        .    9        „ 

o 

POST  ARRIVES.  8  A.M. 

"  Kind  words  in  which  we  feel  the  pressure  of  a 
hand." 

POST  DEPARTS.     8.30A.M.  &  6  P.M. 
"  A  timely  written  letter  is  a  rivet  in  the  chain  of 
affection." 

Pleasures  and  Duties  in  due  order  linked. 

o 

praocrs,  10  P.M. 


The  specimen  card  of  order  of  the  household  will  guide  the  mistress 
in  drawing  up  a  set  of  rules  adapted  to  the  special  requirements  of  her 
own  home. 

Furnishing  a  House  is  an  anxious  and  onerous  undertaking,  involving 
far  more  ramifications,  details  and  difficulties  than  can  be  dealt  with 
here.  A  few  useful  elementary  rules  to  be  observed  are  as  follows : 
before  purchasing  a  single  article,  the  future  abode  should  be  carefully 
inspected,  and  a  careful  plan  made  with  exact  measurements  of  the 
height,  length  and  breadth  of  every  room  and  of  all  recesses  contained 
in  them,  for  a  few  inches  difference  more  or  less  will  render  quite  impos- 
sible or  useless  for  your  room  a  suite  or  article  of  furniture  fancied  by 
you,  or  recommended  by  the  plausible  salesman,  who  has  never  seen 
the  house  to  be  furnished.  Then,  still,  before  any  purchases  are  made, 
a  list  of  the  articles  desired  and  necessary  for  the  new  house  should  be 
made,  re-made,  altered  and  considered,  priced  and  re-priced,  estimated 
and  re-estimated.  No  trouble  or  care  can  be  considered  excessive  in 
this  task,  for  to  most  people,  furnishing  from  cellar  to  attic,  as  the  phrase 


THE   MISTRESS  29 

goes,  is  a  task  that  comes  to  us  but  once  in  our  existence,  and  some  of 
the  articles  selected  may  have  to  last  for  a  lifetime.  Should  money  be 
limited,  the  sum  that  can  be  devoted  to  this  purpose  should  be  carefully 
fixed,  and  if  the  amount  is  not  found  sufficient  for  all  requirements,  the 
expenditure  on  all  strictly  necessary  articles  should  be  estimated  and 
allowed  for,  before  letting  the  fancy  stray  after  superfluities  and  luxuries. 
This  may  seem  a  very  obvious  rule,  but  it  is  one  often  neglected.  The 
scarcity  of  vile  dross  that  prevents  us  from  ordering  all  we  think  we 
need  for  our  new  establishment,  may  be  a  blessing  in  disguise,  for  many 
of  those  quaint  and  interesting  articles  that  lend  so  much  individuality 
and  artistic  charm  to  a  dwelling  can  never  be  purchased  in  bulk,  but 
must  be  acquired  by  a  combination  of  good  luck,  good  taste  and  loving 
search.  The  time  required  for  an  exciting  hunt  after  articles  of  beauty, 
quaint  ugliness,  or  romantic  interest,  will  not  be  grudged  by  many 
young  couples,  for  each  treasure  thus  acquired  tends  to  give  fresh 
interest  in  the  beautifying  of  a  home.  These  rules  consid 
catalogues  compared,  and  the  advantages  and  drawbacks  of  old  and 
new  furniture  weighed,  the  prospective  householder  will  be  prepared 
to  face  the  allurements  of  Tottenham  Court  Road  and  elsewhere. 
Every  possible  information  about  kitchen  furniture  and  utensils,  with 
carefully  compiled  price  lists,  will  be  found  in  a  later  chapter.  It  is 
now  usual  for  the  landlord  to  allow  the  incoming  tenant  to  choose 

ill  papers,  and  :ld  advise  our  readers  not  to  mind  t 

considerable  trouble  in  this  respect.  1 1  is  well  to  think  whether  the  rooms 
require  light  or  dark  papers  ;  the  furniture  and  nh  which  thoy 

are  to  be  associated  should  also  be  considered.      In  few  1 1 
care  and  taste  better  repaid  than  in  such  careful  cli  ..mid 

recommend  our  readers  not  to  rest  content  with  the  sample  books 
furnished  by  their  landlord,  but  to  inspect  the  designs  of  the  best 
known  and  most  artistic  firms. 

Choosing  a  House.— Many  mistresses  have  experienced  the  horrors  of 
house-hunting,  and  it  is  well  known  that  "  three  removes  are  as  good 
(or  bad,  rather)  as  a  fire." 

The  choice  of  a  house  must  depend  on  various  circumstances   with 

nt    people,    and    to   give   any   specific  directions  on    this   head 

would  be  impossible  and  useless,  yet  it  will  be  desirable  to  point  out 

some  of  the  general  features  as  to  locality,  soil,  aspect,  etc.,  which  all 

house-hunters  should  carefully  consider. 

irding  the  locality,  we  may  say.  speaking  more  particular 
a  town  house,  that  it  is  important  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  a  family 
that   the  neighbourhood  of  all   factories  producing  unwholesome  or 
offensive  emanations  or  odours  should  be  strictly  avoided.     Neither  is 
it  well  to  take  a  house  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  a  noisy  trad. 
ould  prove  a  constant  annoyance. 

a  house  on  lease,  get  a  competent  surveyor  to  inspect 
ite  of  tl:<  roof,  gutters,  etc.     Do  not 


30  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

rely  upon  the  statements  of  an  agent,  or  any  one  interested  in  letting 
the  house.  When  circumstances  permit,  it  is  well  to  stay  for  some 
time  in  the  neighbourhood  to  ascertain  if  it  suits  your  health  and  taste 
before  removing  there. 

Referring  to  soils  :  it  is  held  as  a  rule,  that  a  gravel  soil  is  best,  as  the 
rain  drains  through  it  very  quickly,  and  it  is  consequently  less  damp 
than  clay,  upon  which  water  rests  a  far  longer  time.  Sand,  chalk,  and 
clay  soils  all  possess  their  respective  merits,  but  the  latter  should  be 
avoided  by  those  subject  to  rheumatic  affections. 

The  aspect  of  the  house  should  be  well  considered,  remembering  that 
the  more  sunlight  comes  into  the  house  the  healthier  is  the  habitation. 
A  house  with  a  south  or  south-west  aspect  is  lighter,  warmer,  drier, 
and  consequently  more  healthy,  than  one  facing  the  north  or  north-east. 

Great  advances  have  been  made  of  late  in  sanitary  knowledge,  and 
the  first  point  to  inspect  in  a  house  is  its  drainage,  as  it  has  been  proved 
in  thousands  of  cases  that  bad  or  defective  drainage  is  as  certain  to 
destroy  health  as  the  taking  of  poison.  This  arises  from  its  injurious 
effect  upon  the  atmosphere,  which  renders  the  air  we  breathe  unwhole- 
some and  dangerous.  Let  us  remember,  then,  that  unless  the  drainage 
of  a  house  is  perfect,  the  health  of  its  inhabitants  is  sure  to  suffer  ;  and 
they  will  be  susceptible  to  diphtheria,  typhoid  and  all  kinds  of  fevers 
and  disease.  A  damp  house  also  fosters  rheumatism,  ague,  etc. 

The  importance  of  a  good  water  supply  can  scarcely  be  over  esti- 
mated. No  house,  however  suitable  in  other  respects,  should  be  taken 
if  this  important  source  of  health  and  comfort  is  in  the  slightest  degree 
scarce  or  impure.  We  cannot  take  too  much  care  in  seeing  that  it  is 
pure  and  good,  as  well  as  plentiful,  knowing  as  we  do  its  constant 
influence  on  the  health  of  a  household. 

Ventilation  is  another  feature  which  must  not  be  overlooked.  To 
ensure  efficient  ventilation  both  inlet  and  outlet  openings  must  be 
provided  ;  the  former,  as  near  the  floor  as  possible,  without  producing 
a  draught  ;  the  latter,  close  to  the  ceiling.  The  lower  part  of  the 
window  may  be  used  as  an  inlet  for  air  when  the  room  is  not  in  use. 
Iron  gratings  and  perforated  bricks  fitted  into  the  outer  wall,  and  valves 
opening  into  the  chimney,  can  all  serve  as  outlets  for  foul  air. 
Failing  these,  the  upper  sash  of  the  window  may  be  lowered  ;  but  this 
method  of  ventilation  is  apt  to  cause  an  unpleasant  draught,  whereas 
the  above-named  devices  admit  and  carry  off  air  without  any  perceptible 
change  of  temperature. 

Before  committing  themselves  to  any  agreement  for  a  house,  inex- 
perienced readers  are  advised  to  consult  our  "  Legal  Memoranda,"  given 
later  on. 

Rent. — Some  authorities  say  one-tenth,  others  one-eighth,  of  the 
total  income  should  be  spent  in  rent,  but  so  many  circumstances — such 
as  the  size  of  the  family,  its  position,  and  the  locality  in  which  it  is 
necessary  to  reside — affect  this  estimate,  we  are  disposed  to  think  it  is 


THE   MISTRESS  31 

a  question  best  left  for  careful  consideration  in  each  individual  case. 
When  facing  the  problem  of  taking  a  new  and  larger  house,  one  should 
bear  in  mind  that  the  mere  increase  in  rent  does  not  represent  the  whole 
of  the  extra,  expense  that  will  have  to  be  borne,  for  besides  rates,  which 
of  course  increase  proportionately,  a  larger  house  seems  invariably  to 
increase  expenses  all  round.  Yet  it  is  not  easy  to  give  explicit  re 
for  this  undoubted  tendency. 

The  Responsibilities  or  Duties  of  the  mistress  of  a  house  are.  though 
onerous  and  important,  by  no  means  difficult  if  given  careful  an  : 
tematic  attention.     She  ought  always  to  remember  that  she  rules  the 

hold  ;  and  by  her  conduct  its  whole  internal  policy  is  regulated. 
She  is,  therefore,  a  person  of  far- reaching  importance.  Her  daughters 
model  themselves  on  her  pattern,  and  are  directed  by  her  counsels  : — 
"  Her  children  rise  up  and  call  her  blessed  ;  her  husband  also,  and  he 

th  her."     Therefore  let  each  wife,  remembering  her  responsibilities. 

iat  her  conduct  is  such  as  to  earn  the  love  and  reverence  of  her 
children  and  her  husband. 

I.*  t    her  remember  the  sincere  homage  paid  to  the  good  wife  and 
mother  by    the  great  philosophers  an-1    writers  <>f  .ill  ages.      J 
Taylor    Kiys  :    "A    good  wife  i  ;st  best    gift    to    man; 

ngel  and  minister  of  graces  innumerable;  his  gem  of  many 
virtues;  his  casket  of  j  :  ler  voice  is  sweet  mii-ie  ;  her  snnlr. 

her  kiss  the  guardian  of  his  innocence  ;    her 
the  pule  of  his  safety  ;  the  balm  of  his  h<  balsam  of  h: 

her  industry.  !  th  ;   her  ccoiv  afcst  steward  ;    her 

lips,    his   l';utht:il    counsellors  :    her    bosom,    the   sott.-t    j.ill,.\v  of  his 

Ivocatcsof  1!  igs  on 

his  h«\ul." 


THE    HOUSEKEEPER 


CHAPTER    II 

Duties  and    Responsibilities. 

As  Second  in  Command  in  the  House,  except  in  large  establishments, 
where  there  is  a  house-steward,  the  housekeeper  must  consider  herself 
as  the  immediate  representative  of  her  mistress,  and  bring  to  her  work 
all  the  qualities  of  honesty,  industry,  and  vigilance  which  would  be 
expected  of  he-  if  she  were  at  the  head  of  her  own  family.  Constantly 
striving  to  promote  the  prosperity  of  the  household,  she  should  oversee 
all  that  goes  on  in  the  house,  that  every  department  is  thoroughly 
attended  to,  and  that  the  servants  are  comfortable,  at  the  same  time 
that  their  various  duties  are  properly  performed. 

Cleanliness,  punctuality,  and  method  are  essentials  in  the  charac- 
ter of  a  good  housekeeper.  Without  these  qualities,  no  household  can 
be  well  managed.  Order  again,  is  indispensable  ;  by  it  we  provide 
that  "  there  should  be  a  place  for  everything,  and  everything  in  its 
place." 

Accounts. — A  necessary  qualification  for  a  housekeeper  is  that  she 
should  thoroughly  understand  accounts.  She  will  have  to  write  in  her 
books  an  accurate  account  of  all  sums  paid  for  any  and  every  purpose, 
the  current  expenses  of  the  house,  tradesmen's  bills,  wages,  and  many 
miscellaneous  items.  As  we  have  mentioned  in  the  previous  chapter, 
a  housekeeper's  accounts  should  be  periodically  examined  and  checked 
by  the  head  of  the  house.  Nothing  tends  more  to  the  satisfaction 
of  both  employer  and  employed  than  this  arrangement.  "  Short 
reckonings  make  long  friends  "  stands  good  in  this  case,  as  in  others. 

The  housekeeper  should  make  a  careful  record  of  every  domestic 
purchase  whether  bought  for  cash  or  not.  This  record  will  be  found  a 
useful  check  upon  the  bills  sent  in  by  the  various  tradesmen,  so  that 
any  discrepancy  can  be  inquired  into  and  set  right.  An  intelligent 
housekeeper  will  by  this  means  be  able  to  judge  of  the  average  con- 
sumption of  each  article  in  the  household  ;  and  to  prevent  waste  and 
carelessness. 

The  following  table  of  expenses,  income,  or  wages,  shows  what  any 
sum,  from  £i  to  £100  per  annum,  is,  when  reckoned  per  quarter, 
calendar  month,  week,  or  day  : — 

32 


HIE   HOUSEKEEPER 


33 


MVr 
\  c.ir. 

Jll  H  t.T. 

Per 

Per 

\\\vl 

Pec 

D.iv. 

Per 
Year, 

Per 

Chi.irti-r 

Per 

Month. 

1 

Per 

'. 

( 

S.      J. 

s.    d. 

s.     d 

d. 

£    s.  rf. 

£    s.  d 

:  s.  d. 

£    s.   d. 

d 

I       O 

i     8 

0     4 

of 

II       O      0 

J 

18     4 

043 

71 

I      IO 

2     !•> 

10      0 
12      6 

3     4 
4     2 

9 

i! 

13    o    o 
14    o    o 

3     3 
3  10 

i     i 
3     • 

5     o 
5     4i 

3     o 

15       0 

5     o 

i 

2 

15    o    o 

3   15 

5     9 

10 

17     6 

5  10 

16     o     o 

6 

6     2 

10 

4     o 

0      0 

6     8 

17    o    o 

4     5 

8 

6     6} 

ii 

4    10 

2      6 

7     6 

8 

3 

18     o     o 

4  10 

10 

6  ii 

ii 

5     ° 

8     4 

ii 

0       0 

4  15 

ii 

~       ;  ' 

o 

7     6 

9     2 

il 

3i 

0      0 

M 

7     8 

I 

10      0 

10      0 

3 

4 

30    o    o 

7  10 

IO 

ii     5 

7 

1)      10 

12      6 

IO    10 

6 

4  J 

40    o    o 

IO      O 

6 

15     4l 

2 

7     o 

7    i" 

15     o 
17     6 

ii     8 

12      6 

.a 

5 

50    o    o 

60      0      0 

12    IO 
15      0 

i 

I     3 
»    o 

19     3 
3     oj 

•) 
3l 

S  10 

0      0 

13     4 

3     i 

70    o    o 
80    o    o 

17  10 
20    o 

( 

16 

IO       O 

T4l 

'J       O 

5     o 

15       0 

J     5l 

6* 

90    o    o 

22    IO 

!IO 

1U          *) 

n    71 

- 

^1 

H 

IO      O 

10      O 

3  10 

61 

100      0      0 

25     o 

6 

18     51 

! 

51 

Coakhg.  Although  tin-  hoii-okocjM-r  dors  not  ;;rnn.illy  intnl'm-  inm-h 
in  thr  .i':tu.il  work  of  thr  cook,  yet  it  is  necessary  that  she  should 

Imowledge  of  cookery  ;  for  she  has  to  direct  the  \\Mik 

ot  others.    In  some  establishments  cakes,  bre.id.  jams,  pickl. 
mad.-  in  the  still-room  under  the  housekeeper's  superintendence. 

Instruction  in  Cookery.— Happily  it  is  now  usual  for  all  voting  people  to 
learn  something  of  this  art,  and  it  is  a  valuable  accomplishment,  no 
matter  to  what  class  they  belong,  for  at  some  time  of  their  lite  it  is 
sure  to  be  ot  use.  A  gfefcl  many,  too.  who  do  not  actually 

k  themselves  are  ,^lad  to  have  the  power  of  checking  the  work  of 
their  cooks,  who  without  such  a  check  would  become  domestic  tyrants. 
With  servants  ot  this  sort  a  mistress  who  knows  nothing  of  cooking  is 
]H>\vcrlr>s.  IV lore  the  existence  of  cookery  schools  instruction 
could  only  be  obtained  at  home,  tnnn  the  mother,  housr!. 
cook,  but  now  many  who  desire  instruction  prefer  to  avail  them- 
-  of  the  many  opportunities  offered  by  the  cookery  schooU 
and  classes.  This  course  has  advantages  to  recommend  it  ;  for  that 
a  practical  teacher,  while  allowing  the  pupil  considerable  freedom 
of  choice,  takes  care  that  the  lessons  comprise  dishes  which  teach 
the  principles  of  cookery,  as  well  as  mere  manipulation  of  the 
;als.  A  good  teacher  also  endeavours  to  inculcate  habits  ot 
eronomv.  cleanliness,  and  lidn  ;.•>  the  mere  details  of  the 

science  ;    but  it  the  cook  were  to  teach  on    the  same   lines   her   motive 
might  be  misunderstood,  and  her  advice  resented.      If  the  pupils  would 
always  practise  in  their  own  homes  the-  tidiness  and  cleanliness  th- 
taught   in   the  schools,    they   would  be  less   ircipiently   regarded 
nuisance  by  the  cook.      Novices  should  make  a  rule  not  to  use  inn. 
sary  utensils,  to  wait  on  oneself  as  much  as  possible,  and  to  clear  . 
all  materials  and  utensils  when  they  have  finished. 

C 


34  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

The  Daily  Duties  of  a  Housekeeper  are  regulated,  in  a  great  measure,  by 
the  size  of  the  establishment  she  superintends.  She  should  rise  early, 
and  see  her  assistants  are  duly  performing  their  work,  and  that  the  pre- 
parations for  breakfast  are  progressing  satisfactorily.  After  breakfast, 
which,  in  large  establishments,  she  will  take  in  the  "  housekeeper's 
room,"  with  the  lady's-maid,  butler,  and  valet,  served  by  one  of  the 
under-maids,  she  will,  on  days  set  apart  for  such  purposes,  carefully 
examine  the  household  linen,  with  a  view  to  its  being  repaired,  or 
further  necessary  supplies  being  procured  ;  she  will  also  see  that  the 
furniture  throughout  the  house  is  well  rubbed  and  polished  ;  and  attend 
to  all  the  necessary  details  of  marketing  and  ordering  goods  from  the 
tradesmen. 

The  Housekeeper's  Room  is  generally  made  use  of  by  the  lady's-maid, 
butler  and  valet,  who  take  there  their  breakfast,  tea  and  supper.  The 
lady's-maid  will  also  use  this  apartment  as  a  sitting-room,  when  not 
engaged  with  duties  which  would  call  her  elsewhere.  In  different  estab- 
lishments, according  to  their  size,  means  and  expenditure  of  the  family, 
different  rules,  of  course,  prevail.  For  instance,  in  mansions  where  great 
state  is  maintained,  and  there  is  a  house-steward,  two  distinct  tables 
are  kept,  one  in  the  steward's  room  for  the  principal  members  of  the 
staff,  the  second  in  the  servants'  hall  for  the  other  domestics.  At  the 
steward's  dinner-table,  the  steward  and  housekeeper  preside  ;  and  here, 
also,  may  be  included  the  lady's-maid,  butler,  valet. 

After  Dinner,  the  housekeeper,  having  seen  that  her  assistants  have 
returned  to  their  various  duties,  and  that  the  household  is  in  proper 
working  order,  will  have  many  important  matters  claiming  her  atten- 
tion. She  will,  possibly,  have  to  give  the  finishing  touch  to  some 
article  of  confectionery,  or  be  occupied  with  some  of  the  more  elaborate 
processes  of  the  still-room.  There  may  also  be  the  dessert  to  arrange, 
ice-creams  to  make  ;  and  many  employments  that  call  for  no  ordinary 
degree  of  care,  taste  and  attention. 

The  Still-room  was  formerly  much  more  common  than  at  present,  for 
in  days  of  "  auld  lang  syne  "  the  still  was  in  constant  requisition  for 
the  supply  of  home-made  wines,  spirits,  cordials  and  syrups,  home-made 
medicines,  scents,  and  other  aromatic  substances  for  the  toilet,  and  sweet- 
flavoured  waters  for  the  purposes  of  cookery.  There  are  some  estab- 
lishments, however,  in  which  distillation  is  still  carried  on,  and  in  these 
the  still-room  maid  has  her  old  duties  to  perform.  In  a  general  way, 
however,  this  domestic  is  immediately  concerned  with  the  housekeeper. 
For  the  latter  she  lights  the  fire,  dusts  her  room,  prepares  the  breakfast 
table,  and  waits  at  the  different  meals  taken  in  the  housekeeper's  room. 
A  still-room  maid  may  learn  a  very  great  deal  of  useful  knowledge 
from  her  intimate  connexion  with  the  housekeeper,  and  if  she  be 
active  and  intelligent,  may  soon  fit  herself  for  a  better  position  in 
the  household. 

Evening  Occupation. — In  the  evening,  the  housekeeper  will  often  busy 


THE    HOUSEKEEPER  35 

herself  \vith  the  necessary  preparations  for  the  next  day's  duties. 
Numberless  small,  but  still  important,  arrangements  will  have  to  be 
.  so  that  everything  may  move  smoothly.  At  times,  perhaps, 
at t CTI lion  will  have  to  be  paid  to  the  preparation  of  lump-sugar,  spices, 
candied  peel,  the  stoning  of  raisins,  the  washing,  cleansing,  and  drying 
of  currants,  etc.  The  evening,  too,  is  the  best  time  for  attending  to 
household  and  cash  accounts,  and  making  memoranda  of  any  articles 
she  may  require  for  her  store-room  or  other  departments. 

IVriodically,   at  some  convenient  time — for  instance,  quarterly  or 

half-yearly — it  is  a  good  plan  for  the  housekeeper  to  make  an  inventory 

;  \ -thing  she  has  under  her  care,  and  compare  this  with  the  lists 

of  a  former  period  ;    she  will  then  be  able  to  furnish  a  statement,  it 

try,  of  the  articles  which,  from   wear,  breakage,    loss,  or   other 

s,  it  has  been  necessary  to  replace  or  replenish. 

Responsibilities. — In  concluding  these  remarks  on  the  duties  of  the 

hous .-k< -i -JM T.  we  will  briefly  refer  to  the  very  great  responsibility  which 

ies  to  her  position.     Like  "  Caesar's  wife,"  she  should  be  "  above 

suspicion,"  and  her  honesty  ancfrsobriety  unquestionable  ;  for  there  are 

many  temptations  to  which  she  is  exposed.      From  a  physical  point  of 

view,  a  housekeeper  should  be  healthy  and  strong,  and  be  particularly 

rhau    in   her  person,  and  her  hands,  though  they  may  show  a  slight 

of  roughness,  from  the  nature  of  some  of  her  employments,  still 

should    have    a    nice    appearance.      In    he;  -    with    the    various 

nun,    and    her    behaviour     to    the    domestics  under    her,    the 

Hour  and  conduct  of  the  housekeeper  should  never  diminish  her 

authority  or  influence. 

Seasons  for  different  kinds  of  work. — It  will  be  useful  for  the  nv, 
and    housekeeper   to    know   the   be>t    Masons    for    various   (> 
i  ounce  ted  with  Household  Management  ;   and  we,  accordiii  ;h  ,  subjoin 
a  few  hints  which  we  think  will  pr  <.ble. 

In  the  winter  months,  some  of  the  servant^  have  much  more  to  do,  in 

luence  of  the  neaw-ity  there  i>  I  1  to  the  necessary 

In  the  summer,  and  when  the  absence  of  fir  the  dom 

more  leisure,  a  lit ' 

Spring  is  the  usual  period  set  apart  for  house-clear.  .  ivm,,\  in- 

all    the    dust    and    dirt    which,    notwithstanding    all    precautions,    \\ill 
accumulate  during    the   \\  inter   months,   from  dust,   sin  s.   etc. 

This  Mason  is  also  well  adapted  for  washing  and  bleaching  linen,  etc.. 
it  her  not  being  then   too  hot  for  the  exertions  necessary  in 
washing  counterpanes,   blankets,  and  ork  is 

and  more  easily  done  than  in  the  g: '  's  (.1  July.      Winter 

curtains  should  be  taken  down,  and  replaced  by  the  summer  white 
and  furs  and  winter  clothes  also  carefully  laid  by.    The  former  should 
11  shaken  and  brushed,  and  then  pinned  t;;  or  linen,  with 

camphor  ;  them  1  oin  moths.      Spring  cleaning  must  inc'ude 

the  turning  out   ol   ,,11   the   n.»oks  and  corners  of  drawers,  cupboards, 


36  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

lumber-rooms,  etc.,  with  a  view  to  getting  rid  of  unnecessary  articles, 
which  left  there  create  dirt  and  harbour  mice  and  other  vermin, 
though  only  useless  encumbrances  left  where  they  are,  they  may  be  of 
great  value  to  one's  poorer  neighbours.  Sweeping  chimneys,  taking  up 
and  cleaning  carpets,  painting  and  whitewashing  the  kitchen  and 
offices,  papering  rooms,  when  needed,  and,  generally  speaking,  giving 
the  house,  a  bright  and  new  appearance,  for  the  approaching  summer, 
are  among  the  cares  of  this  season.  Oranges  should  now  be  preserved, 
and  wine  made. 

Summer  will  be  found  the  best  period  for  examining  and  repairing 
household  linen,  and  for  "  putting  to  rights  "  all  those  articles  which 
have  received  a  large  share  of  wear  and  tear  during  the  winter.  The 
old  proverb,  "  A  stitch  in  time  saves  nine,"  applies  very  strongly  to  the 
care  of  such  linen  articles  as  table  cloths,  serviettes,  sheets,  pillow-slips, 
etc.,  a  little  early  and  careful  attention  to  which  will  often  prolong  their 
period  of  usefulness.  In  June  and  July,  currants,  raspberries,  straw- 
berries, gooseberries,  and  other  summer  fruits  should  be  preserved,  and 
jams  and  jellies  made.  Eggs  are  cheap  and  plentiful  at  this  season  of 
the  year,  and  the  housekeeper  should  preserve,  by  one  of  the  several 
satisfactory  methods,  a  good  supply  for  the  winter  months,  when  eggs, 
though  more  in  demand  than  ever,  are  scarce  and  dear.  Many  house- 
holds also  find  it  economical  to  purchase  in  June  a  supply  of  salt  butter 
in  kegs  for  winter  use.  In  July,  too,  the  making  of  walnut  ketchup 
should  be  attended  to,  as  the  green  walnuts  will  be  approaching  per- 
fection for  this  purpose.  Many  other  pickles  may  also  be  made  at  this 
season,  full  directions  for  which  are  given  in  our  pages. 

Autumn  fruit  of  various  kinds,  as  plums,  damsons,  blackberries, 
cranberries  and  many  others,  should  be  bottled  and  preserved,  and 
jams  and  jellies  made.  Pickled  mushrooms,  mushroom  and  tomato 
ketchup,  pickled  cabbage  and  beetroot,  and  many  such  stores  should  be 
prepared  at  this  season.  The  apples  and  pears  for  winter  use  should 
now  be  gathered  in  and  stored.  These  should  be  frequently  looked 
over,  and  any  fruit  showing  symptoms  of  decay  removed.  Filberts, 
cob  nuts,  and  walnuts  should  also  be  preserved  in  sand  and  salt  to  pre- 
vent them  from  drying  up  and  decaying. 

In  September  and  October  it  will  be  necessary  to  prepare  for  the  cold 
weather,  and  get  ready  the  winter  clothing  for  the  various  members  of 
the  family.  The  white  summer  curtains  will  now  be  carefully  put  away, 
the  fire-places,  grates,  and  chimneys  looked  to,  and  the  house  put  in  a 
thorough  state  of  repair. 

In  December,  the  principal  household  duty  lies  in  preparing  for  the 
creature  comforts  of  those  near  and  dear  to  us,  so  as  to  meet  Old  Christ- 
mas with  a  happy  face,  a  contented  mind,  and  a  full  larder.  And  in 
stoning  plums,  washing  currants,  cutting  peel,  beating  eggs,  and 
mixing  a  pudding,  a  housewife  is  not  unworthily  greeting  the  season  of 
good  will. 


THE  COOK 

CHAPTER    III 

General  Advice  to  the  Cook,  with  Observations  on  her 
Duties,  and  those  of  the  Kitchen  and  the  Scullery  Maids 

Man  mi  <>ut  love—  •    pining? 

man  who  can  live  without  dining? 

We  mav  ut  friend*,  we  may  1  ks. 

But  . 

u,Uf."  by  0»tn 


\         ook  and  those  who  serve  umler  her  arc  so  intimately  ass. 

an  h.inlly  be  treated  of  scpara  ic  cook,  howi 

be  clean.  dcrly  and  «p. 

.10  arc  un  icsc  good  <ju. 

Ujx.ll  t       tilt* 

:lhnn  assistance. 
''lishmcir 
•  ook  was  indeed  a  great  pcrsoi  an  one    . 

the  art  receiving  a  minor  or  title  Inc.  iu^< 

of  his  sovereign  with  some  dainty  dish.     In  those  days  Un- 

cock gave  ich  commanded  a  view  of  all  that 

was  going  on.     Each  held  a  long  wooden  spoon,  with  which  tic  tasted. 

aving  his  scat,  the  dainties  th.it  wore  cooking  on  t 
and  the  spoon  was  i  v  used  as  a  rod  of  \  .  the  backs 

ot   those  who  did  not  suthcienth  s  of  diligence  and 

ace. 

Early  Rising.—  If,  as  we  have  said,  early  rising  is  of  the  utmost  im- 
portance to  t!  IK?  to  the  s«  rv.int  !      1 

uth  that  wit!.  .-ami    punctuality 

good  work  is  almost  impossible.     A  cook  ought  to  realize  this  imi  - 

she  lose  an  hour  in  the  morning,  she  is  likely  to  be  k 
all  clay  to  overtake  necessary  tasks  that  would  otherwise  have  been 
easy  to  her.    Six  o'clock  is  a  good  hour  to  rise  in  the  summer,  and 

11  in  tl.c 
The  Cook's  First  Duty  should  lx>  to  prepare  the  \r. 

kg,  and  service  of  which  will  be  found  in  a 


38  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

chapter,  and  then  to  busy  herself  with  those  numerous  little  tasks 
associated  with  arranging  and  providing  for  the  day.  This  will  bring 
her  to  the  breakfast  hour  of  eight,  after  which  preparations  must  be 
made  for  the  other  meals  of  the  household. 

Daily  Duties. — In  those  households  where  cook  and  housemaid  only 
are  kept,  the  general  custom  is  that  the  cook  shall  look  after  the  dining- 
room.  Other  household  work,  varying  in  different  households,  is  also 
committed  to  her  care.  In  establishments  of  this  kind,  the  cook  will, 
after  having  lighted  her  kitchen  fire,  brushed  the  range,  and  cleaned  the 
hearth,  proceed  to  prepare  for  breakfast.  She  will  thoroughly  rinse 
the  kettle,  and  set  it  to  boil.  She  may  then  perhaps  have  to  go  to  the 
breakfast-room,  and  there  make  things  ready  for  the  breakfast.  Atten- 
tion must  also  be  given  to  sweeping  the  hall,  shaking  the  hall  mats, 
which  she  must  afterwards  put  back  in  their  places. 

The  cleaning  of  the  kitchen,  passages,  and  kitchen  stairs  must  always 
be  over  before  breakfast,  so  that  it  may  not  interfere  with  the  other 
business  of  the  day.  Everything  should  be  ready,  and  the  whole 
house  should  wear  a  comfortable  aspect.  Nothing  is  more  pleasing  to 
the  mistress  of  an  establishment  than  to  notice  that,  although  she  has 
not  been  present  to  see  the  work  done,  proper  attention  has  been  paid 
to  such  matters. 

By  the  time  that  the  cook  has  performed  the  duties  mentioned  above, 
and  well  swept,  brushed,  and  dusted  her  kitchen,  the  breakfast  bell  will 
perhaps  summon  her  to  the  parlour,  to  "  bring  in  "  breakfast.  It  is 
often  the  cook's  department,  in  small  establishments,  to  take  in  the 
breakfast,  as  the  housemaid,  by  this  time,  has  gone  upstairs  into  the 
bedrooms,  and  has  there  applied  herself  to  her  various  duties.  But 
many  ladies  prefer  the  breakfast  brought  in  by  the  housemaid,  though 
it  remain  to  be  cleared  and  washed  up  by  the  cook.  Whichever  way 
this  part  of  the  work  is  managed,  each  servant  should  have  her  duties 
clearly  laid  down  for  her.  The  cook  usually  answers  the  bells  and 
single  knocks  at  the  door  in  the  early  part  of  the  morning,  as  the 
tradesmen,  with  whom  it  is  her  more  special  business  to  speak,  call  at 
these  hours. 

The  Preparation  of  Dinner  is  the  most  important  part  of  the  cook's  work, 
wherein  she  begins  to  feel  the  responsibility  of  her  situation,  as  she  has 
to  see  to  the  dressing  and  serving  of  those  dishes,  which  her  skill  and 
ingenuity  have  prepared.  Whilst  these,  however,  are  cooking,  she 
must  be  busy  with  her  pastry,  soups,  gravies,  entrees,  etc.  Stock, 
or  what  the  French  call  bouillon,  being  the  basis  of  most  made  dishes, 
must  be  always  at  hand,  in  conjunction  with  sweet  herbs  and  spices 
for  seasoning.  "  A  place  for  everything,  and  everything  in  its  place," 
must  be  the  rule,  in  order  that  time  may  not  be  wasted  in  looking 
for  things  when  they  are  wanted,  and  that  the  whole  business  of 
cooking  may  move  with  the  regularity  and  precision  of  a  well-ad- 
justed machine.  All  must  go  on  simultaneously.  The  vegetables  and 


THE    COOK  39 

sauces  must  be  ready  with  the  dishes  they  are  to  accompany,  and 
the  smallest  oversight  must  be  avoided  in  their  preparation.  It  is  a 
good  plan  when  a  dinner  of  many  courses  has  to  be  prepared, 
to  write  out,  and  hang  in  a  conspicuous  place,  two  lists  of  the 
day's  dishes,  one  of  the  order  in  which  they  must  be  served,  with  every 
accessory  complete,  that  nothing  may  be  forgotten,  and  one  of  the  order 
in  which  each  should  be  cooked,  that  nothing  may  be  over  or  underdone. 
When  the  dinner  hour  has  arrived  it  is  the  duty  of  the  cook  to  dish  up 
such  dishes  as  may,  without  injury,  stand  for  some  time  covered  on  the 
hot  plate  or  in  the  hot  closet  ;  but  such  as  are  of  a  more  important 
or  delicate  kind  must  be  delayed  until  the  order  "  to  serve  "  is  given. 
Then  comes  haste  ;  but  there  must  be  no  hurry — all  must  work  with 
method.  The  cook  takes  charge  of  the  fish,  soups  and  poultry  ;  and  the 
kitchen-maid  of  the  vegetables,  sauces  and  gravies.  These  she  puts  into 
proper  dishes,  while  the  scullery-maid  waits  on  and  assists  the  cook. 
Every  dish  must  be  timed  so  as  to  prevent  its  getting  cold,  whilst 
care  should  be  taken  that  no  more  time  is  lost  between  the  courses  than 
is  absolutely  necessary,  for  good  serving,  hot  plates,  gravy  and  sauces  tin  t 
<>  get  cold  and  greasy,  arc  vital  factors  in  pro- 
viding a  good  dinner.  When  the  dinner  has  been  served,  the  most 
important  item  in  the  daily  work  of  the  cook  is  at  an  end.  She  must, 
however,  every  night  and  morning,  look  to  the  contents  of  her  larder, 
taking  care  to  keep  everything  sweet  and  clean,  so  that  no  disagreeable 
smells  may  arise  from  the  neglect  of  this  precaution.  These  arc  the 
principal  duties  of  a  cook  in  a  big  establishment.  In  many  smaller 
households  the  cook  engages  to  perform  the  whole  work  of  the  kitchen, 
and,  in  some  places,  a  portion  of  the  housework  also. 

Duties  of  the  Kitchen- Maid. — Whilst  the  cook  is  engaged  with  her  morn- 
ing duties,  the  kitchen-  or  scullery-maid  is  also  occupied  with  hers. 
Her  first  duty,  after  the  fire  is  lighted,  is  to  sweep  and  clean  the  kitchen 
and  the  various  offices  belonging  to  it.  This  she  does  every  morning, 
s  cleaning  the  stone  steps  at  the  entrance  of  the  house,  the  halls, 
the  passages,  and  the  stairs,  if  any , which  lead  to  the  kitchen.  Her  g< 
duties,  besides  these,  are  to  wash  and  scour  all  these  places  twi 
with  the  table,  shelves,  and  cupboards.  She  has  also  to  attend  to  the 
nursery  and  servants'  hall  dinners  while  cooking,  to  prepare  all  iish, 
P  >ultry,  and  vegetables,  trim  meat  joints  and  cutlets,  and  do  all  such 
duties  as  may  be  assigned  to  her  by  the  cook. 

The  duties  of  the  kitchen-  or  scullery-maid,  in  short,  are  to  assist  the 
cook  in  everything  in  which  she  may  require  aid  ;  to  keep  the  scullery 
and  all  kitchen  utensils  clean.  The  duties  of  a  kitchen-maid  and  scul- 
lery-maid arc  almost  identical,  and  the  only  reason  that  exists  : 
tiiinin  :  the  two  names  is  that  in  large  establishments,  where  two  kilchcn- 
!<«'j-t.  it  is  useful  to  distinguish  them  as  kitchen-  and  scullery- 
maid.  the  former  doing  the  more  iinjxDrtant,  and  the  latter  the  coarser. 
work  ..t  the  kitchen. 


40  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

ADVICE  TO  COOKS  AND    KITCHEN-MAIDS 

Importance  of  Cooking. — A  good  cook  has  every  reason  to  magnify  the 
office  she  holds,  for  her  work  influences  not  only  the  comfort  but  also 
the  health  of  the  whole  household,  and  mindful  of  this  responsibility 
she  will  take  care  to  study  both  the  needs  and  tastes  of  those  whose 
food  she  prepares.  With  invalids  and  people  in  delicate  health  this 
care  is  of  the  utmost  importance. 

Try  and  realize  for  yourself  the  importance  of  your  post.  Whether 
your  employers  are  working  hard  in  professions  or  business,  or  leading 
a  comparatively  leisured  existence,  whether  they  have  poor  appetites 
or  large  ones,  good  cooking  of  their  food  is  absolutely  necessary  to  their 
health. 

Make  a  rule  to  send  everything  up  to  table  really  well  cooked.  Do 
not  regard  this  as  an  impossibility,  for  it  can  be  done. 

If  you  are  told  to  prepare  anything  you  are  not  certain  about,  have 
the  courage  to  say  so  and  ask  your  mistress's  advice.  How  many 
dishes  and  dinners  have  been  spoilt  because  cooks  have  been  too  proud 
to  confess  ignorance  ! 

Accidents,  of  course,  will  happen  (though  but  rarely  with  proper 
precautions )  ;  fires  will  not  always  burn,  nor  ovens  bake  as  they  should  ; 
but  if  the  joint,  or  whatever  it  may  be,  cannot  be  done  to  time,  do  not 
send  it  up  raw,  but  ask  for  a  little  grace.  If  anything  is  really 
spoilt  (as  even  with  care  it  sometimes  is)  confess  the  fact,  and  do  not 
send  up  a  dish  calculated  to  take  away  people's  appetites. 

Cleanliness. — A  dirty  kitchen  is  a  disgrace  to  all  concerned.  Good 
cookery  cannot  exist  without  absolute  cleanliness.  It  takes  no  longer 
to  keep  a  kitchen  clean  and  orderly  than  untidy  and  dirty,  for  the  time 
that  is  spent  in  keeping  it  in  good  order  is  saved  when  culinary  operations 
are  going  on  and  everything  is  clean  and  in  its  place.  Personal  cleanli- 
ness is  most  necessary,  particularly  with  regard  to  the  hands. 

Dress. — When  at  your  work,  dress  suitably  ;  wear  short  dresses, 
well-fitting  boots,  and  large  aprons  with  bibs,  of  which  every  cook  and 
kitchen-maid  should  have  a  good  supply,  and  you  will  be  comfortable 
as  you  never  can  be  with  long  dresses,  small  aprons,  and  slipshod  shoes, 
the  latter  being  most  trying  in  a  warm  kitchen,  which  may  very  likely 
have  a  stone  floor.  A  maid-servant's  working  dress,  with  its  neat  and 
becoming  cap,  is  far  from  ugly,  and  nothing  is  more  suitable  for  them 
whilst  at  their  work. 

Neatness  should  be  studied  by  all  engaged  in  domestic  work.  It  will 
repay  those  who  practise  it  a  thousand  fold  by  constantly  saving  them 
needless  work. 

Clear  as  you  go  ;  do  not  allow  a  host  of  basins,  spoons,  plates,  etc., 
to  accumulate  on  the  dresser  or  tables  while  you  are  preparing  the 
dinner.  By  a  little  management  and  forethought  much  confusion 
may  be  saved  in  this  way.  It  is  as  easy  to  put  a  thing  in  its  place  when 
it  is  done  with  as  to  continually  remove  it  to  find  room  for  fresh 


THE    COOK  41 

requisites.  For  instance,  after  making  a  pudding,  the  flour  tub,  paste- 
board, and  rolling  pin  should  be  put  away,  and  any  basins,  spoons,  etc., 
taken  to  the  scullery,  neatly  packed  up  near  the  sink,  to  be  washed  when 
the  proper  time  arrives. 

Economy. — !%^ver  waste  or  throw  away  anything  that  can  be  turned 
to  account.  In  warm  weather  any  gravies  or  soups  that  have  been  left 
from  the  preceding  day  should  boiled  up  and  poured  into  clean 
pans.  Full  directions  with  regard  to  stock  pots,  digesters  and  other 
economies  of  the  kitchen  will  be  found  in  a  later  chapter. 

Go  early  every  morning  to  your  larder  (which,  like  the  kitchen,  ought 
to  be  kept  perfectly  clean  and  neat),  and  while  changing  plates,  looking 
to  your  bread  pan  (which  should  always  be  emptied  and  wiped  out 
every  morning),  take  notice  if  there  is  anything  not  likely  to  keep,  and 
acquaint  your  mistress  with  the  fact.  It  is  better  if  there  is  a  spare 
cupboard  in  the  kitchen  to  keep  any  baked  pastry  there,  and  thus 
preserve  its  crispness. 

Kitchen  Supplies. — Do  not  let  your  stock  of  pepper,  salt,  spices,  season- 
ings, herbs,  etc.,  dwindle  so  low  that  there  is  danger  of  finding  yourselt 
minus  some  very  important  ingredient,  the  lack  of  which  may  cause 
much  confusion  and  annoyance.  Think  of  all  you  require  when  your 
mistress  sees  you  in  the  morning,  that  she  may  give  out  any  necessary 
stores.  If  you  live  in  the  country  have  your  vegetables  gathered  from 
the  garden  at  an  early  hour,  so  that  there  is  ample  time  to  get  rid  of 
caterpillars,  etc.,  which  is  an  easy  task  if  tl  are  allowed  to  soak 

in  salt  and  water  an  hour  or  two. 

Punctuality. — This  is  an  indispensable  quality  in  a  cook.  When  there 
is  a  large  dinner  to  prepare  get  all  you  can  done  the  day  before  or  early 
on  the  morning  of  the  day.  This  will  save  a  great  deal  of  time  and 
enable  you,  with  good  management,  to  send  up  your  dinner  in  good 
time  and  style. 

Cleansing  of  Cooking  Utensils. — This  is  one  of  the  cook's  most  important 
duties,  and  one  that  should  never  be  neglected  or  put  off  from  one  day 
to  another.  When  you  have  washed  your  saucepans,  fish  kettle,  etc., 
stand  them  before  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  to  get  thoroughly  dry  inside 
before  putting  away.  They  should  then  be  put  in  a  dry  place  in  order 
to  escape  rust.  Put  some  water  into  them  directly  they  are  done  with, 
if  they  have  to  stand  some  time  before  they  are  washed.  Soups  or 
gravies  should  never  be  allowed  to  stand  all  night  in  saucepans.  Frying 
pans  should  be  cleaned  (if  black  inside)  with  a  crust  of  bread,  and 
washed  with  hot  water  and  soda.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  a  knife 
kept  especially  for  peeling  onions,  but  where  this  is  not  done  the  one 
used  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned.  If  the  tin  has  worn  off  copper 
utensils,  have  it  immediately  replaced.  Clean  your  coppers  with  tur- 
pentine and  fine  brick  dust,  or  waste  lemon  skins  and  sand,  rubbed 
on  with  flannel,  and  polish  thorn  with  a  leather  and  a  little  dry  brick 
dust.  Clean  tins  with  soap  and  whiting,  rubbing  on  with  a  soft  rag  or 


42  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

flannel,  wiping  them  with  a  dry  cloth,  and  lastly  with  a  soft  dry  cloth 
or  leather. 

Washing  of  Dishes,  Etc. — Do  not  be  afraid  of  hot  water  in  washing  up 
dishes  and  dirty  cooking  utensils  ;  as  these  are  essentially  greasy,  luke- 
warm water  cannot  possibly  have  the  effect  of  cleansing  them  thoroughly, 
and  soda  in  the  water  is  a  great  saving  of  time  as  is  also  a  fresh  supply 
of  hot  water. 

After  washing  the  plates  and  dishes  wash  out  your  dish  tubs  with  a 
little  soap,  soda  and  water,  and  scrub  them  often  ;  wash  the  dish  cloth 
also  and  wring  it  out,  and  after  wiping  out  the  tubs  stand  them  to  dry. 

Pudding  cloths  and  jelly  bags  should  have  immediate  attention  after 
being  used  ;  the  former  should  be  well  washed,  scalded,  and  hung  up  to 
dry.  Let  them  be  perfectly  aired  before  being  put  away.  No  soda 
should  be  used  in  washing  pudding  cloths. 

The  Sink. — Do  not  throw  anything  but  water  down  the  sink,  as  the 
pipe  is  liable  to  get  choked,  a  state  of  things  which  causes  both  ex- 
pense and  annoyance.  At  least  three  times  a  week  pour  a  pailful  of 
boiling  soda  water  down  every  trap,  for  this  prevents  accumulation  of 
fat,  which  more  often  than  anything  else  stops  up  sink  pipes. 

Try  to  realize  how  important  this  duty  is  ;  bad  smells  (often  caused 
by  a  stoppage  in  the  sink  pipes)  are  most  disagreeable  and  dangerous. 

Whilst  a  cook  should  be  versed  in  all  the  details  of  her  position,  a 
mistress  should  never  forget  her  own  duty  of  seeing  that  the  laws  of 
economy,  cleanliness  and  order  are  not  neglected  by  her  servants.  The 
servants  who  reflect  that  some  day  they  will  probably  need  neatness, 
cleanliness  and  economy  in  their  own  homes,  and  for  their  own  benefit, 
will  feel  grateful  to  the  employer  who  insists  on  the  practise  of  these 
virtues. 


THE  KITCHEN 


CHAPTER    IV 

The  Arrangement,  Economy  and  Furniture  of  the 
Kitchen,  Kitchen  and  Cooking  Appliances,  Utensils 
and  their  Prices,  Etc. 

Writers  on  Domestic  Economy,  etc. — There  are  few  of  those  who 
have  turned  their  attention  to  domestic  economy  and  architec- 
ture, who  have  written  on  these  important  subjects  with  better  effect 
ll:, in  Sir  Benjamin  Thompson,  an  American  chemist  and  physicist, 

known  as  "  Count  Kumford,"  a  title  of  nobility  bestowed  upon 
him  by  the  Kin<^  o:  Bavaria.  He  did  not,  however,  go  very  deeply  or 
fully  into  the  dcsi  in  and  construction  of  that  part  of  the  dwelhng- 

which  is  chiefly  devoted  to  cookery  purposes,  when  he  declared 
that  "  the  construction  of  a  kitchen  must  ;il\vays  depend  so  much  on 
local  circumstances  that  general  rules  can  hardly  be  given  resp< 
it,"  and  again  that  "the  principles  on  which  this  construction  ought  in 
all  cases  to  be  made  are  simple  and  easy  to  be  understood."      i 
principles  resolved  themselves,  in  his  estimation,  into  adequate  room 
and  convenience  for  the  cook. 

Definition  of   the  term  Kitchen. — The  Anglo-Saxon  cictn,  the  Danish 

//,  the  German  Kiiche,  and  tin  .  Cuisine  are  all  r« 

to   the  Latin  word    coquere — to   cook.     The  word   kitchen    probably 

from  the  end  of  the  twelfth  century,  when  the  English  language 
began  to  take  concrete  form.  Chaucer,  who  died  in  1400,  makes  use 
of  the  word  in  the  "  Canterbury  Tales,"  the  best  example  of  the 
English  language  of  that  day.  Shakespeare  (1564-1616)  speaks  of 
the  kitchen  as  a  cook-room,  clearly  indicating  its  use  in  the  sixteenth 
century  ;  while  Spenser  (1552-1599)  says  the  hostess 

.  .  .  "led  her  guests  anone 
Unto  the  kitchen  room,  ne  spared  for  niceness  none." 

Here  is  undoubtedly  meant  a  room  in  which  the  meal    was    to   be 

il. 
Requisites  of  a  Good  Kitchen.— That  Count  Kumford  is  perfectly  right 

43 


44  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

in  his  general,  though  somewhat  broad  premises,  no  one  will  be  disposed 
to  deny  ;  nevertheless,  the  requisites  of  a  good  kitchen  demand  some- 
thing more  special  than  is  here  pointed  out.  It  must  be  remembered 
that  it  is  the  great  laboratory  of  every  household,  and  that  much  of  the 
family  "  weal  or  woe,"  as  far  as  regards  bodily  health,  depends  upon 
the  nature  of  the  food  prepared  within  its  walls.  In  the  con- 
struction and  disposition  of  a  kitchen,  therefore,  the  following  con- 
ditions should  be  secured. 

(1)  Convenience  of  distribution  in  its  parts,  with  largeness  of  dimen- 
sion. 

(2)  Excellence  of  light,  height  and  ventilation. 

(3)  Easy  of  access,  without  passing  through  the  house. 

(4)  Walls    and   location  so   arranged   that   the  odours  of  cookery 
cannot  spread  about  the  house. 

(5)  Plenty  of  fuel  and  water,  which,  with  the  scullery,  pantry  and 
storeroom,  should  be  so  near  the  kitchen  as  to  offer  the  smallest  possible 
trouble  in  reaching  them. 

In  addition  to  these  important  points,  the  equipment  of  the  kitchen 
demands  careful  consideration.  Under  this  term  is  comprised  its 
fittings,  fixtures,  furniture,  and  the  utensils  that  should  be  found  in 
the  kitchen  itself  and  the  adjacent  back  kitchen,  or  scullery,  for 
household  and  culinary  uses.  It  will  be  convenient  to  consider  the 
first  three  items  as  forming  one  division  of  our  subject,  and  the  last 
as  another  ;  the  portability  of  the  various  articles  comprehended  in 
the  second  division  forming  the  chief  point  of  distinction  between 
them  and  those  which  find  a  place  in  the  first. 

THE  FITTINGS,  FIXTURES  AND  FURNITURE  OF  THE  KITCHEN 

The  Fittings. — Under  this  title,  let  us  glance  briefly  at  the  finish  of 
the  several  surfaces  within  which  the  cubic  space  of  the  apartment 
itself  is  included  :  namely,  the  ceiling,  the  walls  and  the  floor.  There 
is  more  wear  and  tear  and  more  injury  from  causes  that  tend  to  soil 
and  disfigure  in  the  kitchen  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  house,  and 
care  should  therefore  be  taken  to  guard  against  the  former  as  much  as 
possible,  and  to  render  the  effacement  of  the  latter  as  easy  and  as 
speedy  as  possible. 

(1)  The  Ceiling. — The  most  suitable  ceiling  is  a  plain,   smoothly- 
plastered  one,  whether  the  kitchen  is  used  solely  for  the  purpose  of 
cooking  or,  as  is  the  case  with  the  working-classes,  as  a  combined 
kitchen  and  living  room.     It  should  be  frequently  whitewashed,  for 
apart  from  the    cleanliness,  which    is    always    desirable,  the   whiter 
the  ceiling  the  greater  will  be  its  capacity  to  reflect  light,  and    there- 
fore to  render  the  kitchen  lighter. 

(2)  The  Walls. — The  walls  of  a  kitchen  used  only  for  culinary  pur- 
poses should  be  lined  with  white  glazed  tiles,  or  else  have  a  high-tiled 


STOVES    AND    COOKING    RANGE, 


i.  Warming  Stove.     2.  Continuous  burning  Anthracite  Coal  Warming  Stove. 
3.  Kitchen  Range. 


C* 


COOKING    RANGES, 


i.  Portable  Range  with  Oven,  fixed  in  front  of  grate.     2.  Portable  Range 
with  Oven  and  Boiler,  fixed  in  recess. 


THE    KITC1I1  \  45 

dado.  Tiled  walls  are  more  easily  kept  clean  than  disk-in  pi-red  walls, 
which  show  every  mark.  When  disteirq>er  must  be  used,  some  light 
shade  should  be  selected,  but  not  necessarily  bull,  although  that  colour 
:ierally  preferred  because  walls  and  woodwork  should  agree  in 
colour,  and  buff  is  liked  better  than  grey  or  green  in  a  kitchen. 
Certainly  buff  has  many  good  qualities  to  recommend  it  ;  it  is  clcan- 
1"  >king,  and  in  consequence  of  its  colour  nearly  approaching  that 
of  the  wood  it  show  signs  of  wear  less  quickly  than  other  colours. 
I  hose  who  work  in  kitchens  of  this  description  have  the  housekeeper's 
rot nn  and  the  servants'  hall  in  which  to  sit  when  their  work  is  done. 
An  apartment  of  different  appearance  is  necessary  in  smaller  middle- 
households,  where  the  maids  have  to  spend  their  leisure  time 
in  the  kitchen,  and  also  in  the  homes  of  the  working-classes  where 
the  kitchen  is  the  living-room  of  the  family.  For  these,  the  most 
appropriate  and  durable  wall-coverings  are  varnished  papers.  Recent 
have  introduced  many  new  fashions  in  this  direction,  but  nothing 
thai  can  be  recommended  in  preference  to  the  old-faslu'oncd  oak 
papers  with  dull  surfaces,  specially  prepared  to  receive  the  varnish 
being  hung.  The  initial  outlay  is  considerable,  but  a  good, 
\vell-varirshed  paper  will  last  a  very  long  time.  Moreover,  it 
always  looks  bright,  is  easily  kept  dean,  and  its  smooth  surface  pre- 
vents any  accumulation  of  dust,  which  is  a  great  recommend. a  ion 
from  a  health  point  of  view.  The  woodwork  should  be  painted,  grained 
and  varnished  to  match  the  paper.  The  sanitary,  so-called  washable 
papers  are  less  expensive  than  varnished  papers,  but  their  t 
surfaces  will  not  stand  repeated  applications  of  soap  and  water  ;  they 
may,  however,  be  wiped  over  with  a  damp  sponge  or  damp  cloth. 

(3)  The  Floor. — Floor-coverings  are  very  rarely  found  in  kitchens 
devoted  entirely  to  cookery.  Oil-cloth  and  linoleum  are  the  only 
materials  which  can  possibly  be  used,  and  they  are  generally  um 

:ll1  V. 

north  <  are  cen 

. 

In  ti,  hell  lloor  usually  v 

\vhu  !.  ace  ;    while  or,  coast 

tlif    il.  frequently    laid    with    nd    <  >r    yellow    brit  ks.      \\V>odcn 

floors  and   concrete   ll<><>rs   may  be  seen   in   any    part  of  the  count  iv. 
particularly  in  large  eMablishmeir 
receive    considerable    attention.     In    middle-class    households. 

ble  to  combine  utility  and  comfort,  good  linoleum  will  be 
found  the  mo,;  ntablc  floor-t  •  or  the  kitchen. 

The    patterned    varieties    aie    pivl.-rable    to    those    with    plain    sin  : 
which  quickly  become  dis!iy,iin-d  by  marks  math-  by  the  lurmtur<  . 

Kitchen  Fixtures.  The  fixtures  are  the  immovable  articles  attached 
to  the  walls  of  the  kitchen.  I  ,<blv,  but  in  ; 

lolds  when-  the  kilt  hen  is  used   Mnii.lv  for  its  l,-:;!inr..  • 


46  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

of  cookery,  they  usually  comprise  cupboards  fitted  with  shelves  in 
which  the  cook  keeps  her  stores  and  utensils  ;  strips  of  wood  provided 
with  hooks  for  meat-covers,  etc.;  electric  light  or  gas-fittings  ;  electric 
bell  indicator  or  ordinary  bell-fittings  ;  dresser,  ventilators  and  a  sink. 
The  dresser  is  nearly  always  a  movable  article,  but  the  upper  part 
of  it  has  to  be  firmly  secured  to  the  wall  by  strong  "  holdfasts,"  and 
it  consequently  becomes  a  fixture  by  agreement  between  tenant  and 
tenant  or  tenant  and  landlord.  The  dresser  is  usually  some  six  or 
seven  feet  long,  and  the  upper  part  consists  of  four  or  five  narrow 
grooved  shelves,  upon  which  are  disposed  plates  and  dishes.  The  broad 
shelf  of  the  dresser,  usually  termed  THE  TOP,  affords  ample  space  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  soup- tureen,  sauce- tureens  and  vegetable- 
dishes  ;  while  the  drawers  which  run  beneath  form  a  convenient 
receptacle.  The  lower  part  forms  an  open  recess  from  end  to  end, 
and  has  a  shelf  raised  a  few  inches  above  the  floor.  This  shelf  is  gener- 
ally painted  black,  and  forms  a  convenient  place  for  large  culinary 
utensils  not  in  use. 

A  well-constructed  sink  is  indispensable  in  a  kitchen.  Wooden 
sinks,  lined  with  zinc,  sinks  made  of  stoneware,  and  sinks  lined  with 
well-cemented  tiles  are  very  serviceable,  and  easily  kept  clean.  They 
should  never  be  fixed  in  out-of-way  corners,  but  should  be  easy  of 
access  for  both  cleaning  and  repairing.  Whether  the  sink  is  in  constant 
use  or  not,  the  pipe  should  be  flushed  at  least  once  a  day  with  hot 
soda  and  water.  However  some  people  prefer  it  excluded  from  the 
kitchen. 

Every  kitchen  should  be  provided  with  some  outlet  for  the  hot  foul 
air  which  rises  to  the  top  of  the  kitchen.  The  doors  and  windows 
may  be  used  as  a  means  of  admitting  fresh  air,  but  an  outlet  at  a  higher 
level  than  the  window  is  always  necessary. 

The  kitchen  range  is  always  a  fixture,  but  of  so  much  importance 
that  the  subject  will  be  treated  separately. 

What  has  been  already  said  regarding  kitchen  fixtures  applies 
equally  to  the  kitchens  in  middle-class  households,  but  not  to  the 
homes  of  the  working-classes.  Electric  light  and  electric  bell  fittings 
are  not  often  found  there  ;  properly-constructed  sinks,  efficient  venti- 
lation and  convenient  cupboards  they  have,  or  ought  to  have  ;  and  in 
many  households  a  dresser  is  considered  indispensable,  but  it  is  often 
a  movable  article  of  furniture,  and  will  be  described  under  that  heading. 

Kitchen  Furniture. — In  making  selection  for  the  kitchen  with  dis- 
tempered walls  and  bare  floor,  strength  and  durability  are  the  chief 
points  to  be  considered.  The  centre  table  is  the  most  important  article 
of  furniture  ;  it  should  be  as  large  as  the  kitchen  will  conveniently 
allow  ;  and  the  usual  form  is  oblong,  with  a  drawer  at  each  end.  In 
one  drawer  the  cook  keeps  knives  and  spoons,  and  in  the  other  small 
utensils  and  implements  in  constant  use,  such  as  dariol -moulds,  patty- 
pans, and  cases  containing  cutters,  larding-needles,  etc.  Modern  tables 


THF    KIT-  !  47 

:th  a  shell  underneath,  which  runs  from  end  to  end  at  a 
nicnt  height  from  the  floor  ;  and  this  arrangement 

to  and 
fro  between  ti.  in  small  kite: 

tblc  spac«  a  good  substitute.     The 

table  should  be  made  of  good,  well-seasoned  deal  or  other  white  hard 
wood  ;     the   top   must   be  smooth,   without  a  •:.!   Mibst. 

to  legs  perfectly  plain  and  strong.     No  pai  uld  be  painted. 

bccau  ;ng  is  a   :  1   half- worn  paint  soon 

ibby   api>carance.     On   the   other   1  ;  ubbed 

wood  always  looks  clean  and  a;  v  bare 

.  uncovered  floor  and  pots  md  one  01    t\\.» 

.ntial    chairs    comprise    the    whole    furniture.     The    nv 
chopping- blocl;.  «  tc..  all  occupy  space, 

are  not  there  to  furnish  the  kitch- 

The:  hoicc  in  d  to  th< 

loublc  office  of  Shakespeare's  "  cook  room  "  and  Spenser's 
iien   roomc,   ne    spared  for  niccnes 

«•  square  or  obl->  r.-.  \\ith  turned  legs  in  \ 

s  to  meet  the  retj  II. 

The  term  DRESSER  was  originally  applied  to  a  narrow  side 

^s  dressed  or  \  use.     In  motleni  phraseology 

rcsser  is  described  as  "  a  kind  of  kitchen  sideboard  with  rows  of 

•ee  drawers    m    the 

upboard  ersod, 

ich  cupboard  be  replaced  by  three  drawers,  with  one  cupboard 
in   the  o 

In    com  he    equipment    of    the   kitchen,    the   number  and 

kind   of   a:  will    IK-  1    the 

.ccs   of   those  who  occupy    the  house.     Every  one  should 

n  to  have 

is  not  good    .  how  pla 

uch  better  to  buy 
necessary,  and  add  articles  of  an  ornamental  character  by 

The  Kitchen  Clock.— As  the  observance  of  time  and  adherence  to 

;s   done  in    the 
i  can  be  regarded  as  being  completely  fur 

;ht-day  dial. 

p  only  once  a  wc<  Knglish  eight-day  clock 

be  bought  for  355.,  but  a  good  kitchen 

Thr  l>  :.>ck  is 

has  to   be 

mid  DC  able  to  do  this  without 
lace. 


48  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

COOKING    APPLIANCES. 

The  last,  but  by  far  the  most  important  of  the  kitchen  requisites 
that  we  are  called  upon  to  consider  is  the  apparatus  which  is  used 
for  cooking,  heating  water,  etc.,  usually  known  as  the  kitchen  range 
or  kitchener,  names  which  originally  had  a  distinctive  import,  but 
which  have  lost  much  of  their  primary  significence,  and  are  now 
applied  without  much  discrimination  to  cooking  appliances  of 
every  kind,  whether  the  fuel  used  be  coal  or  gas.  We  will,  how- 
ever, for  the  sake  of  clearness,  use  the  terms  kitchen  range,  kitchener, 
and  gas  range  or  stove,  to  indicate  three  widely  marked  varieties  of 
cooking  apparatus  :  (i)  the  kitchen  range,  being  taken  to  imply  a 
range,  either  open  or  close,  that  is  fixed  in  its  place  with  brickwork, 
etc.,  and  is  therefore  immovable  ;  (2)  the  kitchener,  a  range  that 
is  entirely  independent  of  all  its  surroundings,  one  which  stands, 
usually  raised  on  four  low  legs,  on  the  hearth  in  the  recess  otherwise 
occupied  by  the  kitchen  range,  movable  in  itself  when  necessary, 
but  virtually  a  fixture  through  its  weight  and  size  ;  and  (3)  the  gas 
range  or  stove,  like  the  kitchener  really  movable,  though  virtually 
a  fixture  for  the  same  reasons,  but  differing  from  the  kitchener,  not 
only  in  form  and  in  the  kind  of  fuel  used,  but  also  in  the  fact  that 
it  need  not,  like  the  kitchener,  of  necessity  be  placed  on  the  hearth, 
that  the  chimney  may  be  utilized  as  a  means  of  escape  for  smoke  and 
the  various  products  of  combustion,  but  may  be  placed  in  any  part 
of  the  kitchen  convenient  for  the  purpose. 

The  Kitchen  Range. — Kitchen  ranges  may  be  distinguished  as  close 
and  open,  the  chief  point  of  difference  between  them  being  in  the 
construction  of  the  fire-grate  or  box  in  which  the  fuel  used  for  heating 
purposes  is  burnt.  In  the  open  range  the  fire-grate  is  uncovered  at 
the  top,  and  forms  a  cavity,  enclosed  by  the  boiler  and  oven  at  the  sides 
and  back,  by  a  grating  of  close  bars  at  the  bottom,  and  by  parallel 
horizontal  bars,  about  one  inch  square  in  section,  placed  from  one  and 
a  half  to  two  inches  apart  in  front.  The  fire  in  the  open  range,  gener- 
ally speaking,  can  be  made  larger  or  smaller  at  pleasure  by  means  of 
a  movable  check  attached  to  a  notched  bar  which  is  fixed  at  right 
angles  to  its  surface  on  one  side  of  it,  and  moved  backwards  and  for- 
.  wards  by  means  of  a  small  cog-wheel,  to  a  greater  or  less  distance 
from  the  fixed  side  of  the  grate,  as  may  be  found  necessary.  In  the 
close  range  the  fire-chamber  is  inexpansive,  closed  in  front  cither 
wholly  or  partially  by  an  iron  door,  and  covered  in  at  the  top  by  an 
iron  plate,  movable,  and  generally  in  two  parts,  namely,  a  circular 
plate,  dropping  into  and  filling  an  opening  in  a  square  plate,  the  size 
of  the  top  of  the  fire  box.  At  the  back  there  is  a  fire-brick  moulded 
into  shape.  Close  ranges  are  now  chiefly  used,  but  open  ranges  are 
to  be  met  with  in  the  country  and  in  some  towns  in  the  North  and 
in  houses  that  have  been  built  for  some  years,  and  in  which  the  open 
range  that  was  originally  fixed  in  the  kitchen,  still  remains, 


THE    KITCHKN  49 

Open  Ranges. — The  closed  stove  with  its  movable  grate  and  many  con- 
trivances lor  the  disposal  ami  regulation  of  heat  is  an  invention  of  r 

but  the  open  fire  with  some  primitive  arrangement  for  cooking 
.  or  by  the  side  of  it,  dates  back  to  a  remote  age.  In  the  p< M.I 
districts  on  the  cast  and  west  coasts  of  Hngland,  cooking  is  still  carried 
on  under  what  appear  to  us  almost  impossible  conditions,  i.e.  by  means 
of  a  peat  fire,  burning  on  a  stone  hearth,  with  a  wide  chimney  above 
it.  In  nearly  all  the  houses  the  back  kitchen  or  scullery  is  provided 
with  a  brick  oven,  in  which  bread  and  joints  of  meat  may  be  baked  ; 
but  by  reason  of  the  cost  of  extra  fuel,  time  and  trouble  em 
the  heating  of  this  oven  is  a  weekly,  or  at  most,  a  bi-weekly  occur- 
rence, and  on  other  days  culinary  operations  are  confined  to  the  open 
kitchen  fire.  Vegetables  and  puddings  are  cooked  in  saucepai 
pots,  as  they  are  described  in  the  local  dialect,  suspended  over  the  tire  ; 
the  means  of  suspension  being  a  rigid  bar  of  iron,  fixed  in  the  1 
wall  of  the  chimney,  and  supplied  with  strong  hooks  of  varying  length, 
to  allow  the  vessels  to  be  raised  or  lowered  to  any  height  above  the 
lire.  All  the  culinary  utensils  are  provided  with  half-circular  handles 
i  over  the  top  like  the  handle  of  a  k  il  running  from  side 

i  of  from  back  to  front.      1  e  also  a  large  oval 

iron  vessel,  which  they  term  a  "  hang-OVe:  and  use  for  baking 

and  cakes.     It  has  a  depressed  lid,  like  a  braizin 
which  is  Idled  with  hot  peat  ;    and  in  tins  • 
is  applied   from  above   and   below.      A   similar   ve^el.   called   a 

pot." 

ided  from  a  tripod  of  three  bars  of  iron  or  hard  wood.     One 
only  could  be  U  .t  the  point  where  the  rods  we  !.  and 

oded  a  large  cauldron  used  for  the  various  purposes  of 
tg     and    stewing.     Cakes    were   baked    and    fish    cooked    in     an 
pan,   which  was  probably  the  of  the  North-count ry 

Idle  "  or  "  gi: 

:e-histon  .-arly  Hrr  ttg   mainly 

on  milk,  fruit,  herbs  and  other  products  of  the  Kind,  the 
built  >od  on  hearths  formed  of  ro  B*  ;    and  K 

supposed  that  the  agreeable  odour  of  the  : 
ammils  tirst  sugge-  xxl  ;  but  until  th< 

the  Romans  abolished   Druidisin  by  force,   the  inh. 
M  would  not   i  commit  wh.it  would  have  Ix^e- 

d  a  terrible  sacnl 

the  fact,  but   it    is    highlv   pr.-bablr 
that  roasting  in  front  of  the  fire  was  one  of  t! 

i  the  fourteenth  century.     They 
turned   bv   han •!  ;     but 

I 


50  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

cage  in  which  he  was  enclosed.  The  smoke- jacks,  which  are  still  found 
in  the  kitchens  of  some  old  country-houses,  were  next  introduced  ; 
these  were  turned  by  means  of  the  smoke  from  the  fire.  The  brass 
bottle- jack,  still  in  use,  is  a  mechanical  contrivance,  which,  when 
wound  up,  revolves,  carrying  with  it  the  joint  of  meat  or  whatever 
may  be  attached.  The  open  range  is  said  to  have  only  one  strong 
point  in  its  favour,  namely,  that  it  will  roast  in  front  of  the  fire  ;  but 
this  one  point  is  sufficient  to  recommend  it  for  all  time  to  those  who 
use  it.  Nothing  will  ever  induce  the  North-country  people  to  dis- 
card their  open  ranges  ;  although  many  supplement  them  with  a  gas 
stove,  to  make  easier  the  cook's  work  as  regards  frying  and  sauce- 
making.  As  for  the  open  ranges  in  the  cottages,  it  is  questionable 
whether  they  burn  more  coal  than  a  close  stove  of  the  same  capacity, 
for  the  careful  housewife  has  various  contrivances  for  reducing  the 
consumption  of  fuel  when  the  fire  is  not  needed  for  roasting  or  baking 
purposes.  Moreover,  an  oven  heated  from  below  is  better  adapted 
to  the  requirements  of  people  who  always  have  home-made  bread  and 
cakes  ;  and  who  prefer  baked  hot-pots  and  meat  stewed  in  an  earthen- 
ware pot  in  the  oven,  to  the  more  liquid  and  less  savoury  stews  made 
in  a  saucepan.  Apart  from  the  question  of  economy,  the  well- con- 
structed close  ranges  found  in  good  kitchens  have  many  strong  points 
to  recommend  them  ;  but  their  various  adjustments  to  facilitate 
the  disposal  and  regulation  of  heat,  and  the  movable  fire-box  by  which 
the  consumption  of  fuel  is  controlled,  are  characteristic  of  this  par- 
ticular class  of  stoves,  and  are  not  found  in  the  small  close  stoves  sup- 
plied to  artisan  dwellings.  And  when  the  production  of  heat  and  the 
consumption  of  fuel  cannot  be  controlled,  a  close  stove  may  prove 
quite  as  wasteful  as  an  open  grate,  and  less  satisfactory  in  other  re- 
spects. 

Close  Fire  Ranges. — There  is  little  doubt  that  "  close  fire  "  ranges 
were  at  first  mostly  used  in  Devonshire  for  the  convenience  of  the 
hotplate  over  the  top  for  scalding  milk  to  obtain  clotted  cream, 
open  ranges  being  then  used  in  London  and  other  parts  of  the  United 
Kingdom.  Gradually  the  use  of  the  open  range  was  abandoned  for 
the  Leamington  range,  which  at  one  time  may  be  said  to  have  had  it 
all  its  own  way  ;  but  now  there  are  a  variety  of  ranges,  each  claiming 
some  special  merit,  and  rendering  it  a  matter  of  considerable  difficulty 
to  pick  and  choose  between  them.  It  may  be  said,  however,  that 
economy  of  fuel  and  cleanliness  are  the  chief  features  of  close  ranges 
of  all  kinds,  combined  with  efficiency  of  action,  provided  that  the 
flues  themselves,  through  which  the  smoke  and  soot  pass  off  into  the 
chimney,  leaving  considerable  deposits  in  the  passage,  are  kept  per- 
fectly clean. 

Advantages  claimed  for  Close  Fire  Ranges. — (i)  Many  saucepans  and 
vessels  may  be  kept  boiling  at  one  time,  and  at  the  proper  point  oi 
temperature. 


Till-     K!'H  Ml  N  51 


(2)  Saucepans  and  other  vessels  last  double  the  turn   \\hen  u^cd  on 

of  a  closed  st< 

(3)  Saucepans  and  other  vessels  may  be  kept  as  cl<  ;de  as 

is  consequently  an  immense  saving  of  labour. 

(4)  The  fact  of  the  entire  range  being  covered  by  a  hot-plate  and  the 
>t  being  exposed  lessens  the  probability  of  having  food  smoked. 

(5)  The  hot-plate  is  well  adapted  for  an  ironing  stove  when  not 

>r  cookery  purposes. 

(6)  Close  ranges  are  usually  provid-  -me  simple  contir 

m  to  be  converted  into    slow   » 
he  fire  may  be  kept  burning  all 

mable  advantage  when  it  r>  necessary  to 
:i  the  boiler  hot. 

(7)  The  best  types  may  be  easily  con  ito  an  open  range 

(8)  The  heat  is  easily  regulated,  and  when  provided  with  an  adjust- 
able fire-box  may  be  directed  by  a  simple  movement  to  the  up. 

part  of  the  oven  as  requr 

How  to  clean  a  Close  Range.     The  oven  door  should  be  closed  to 
out  tl  n  door  and  window  closed  to  prevent  the 

!  the  ashes  and  en 
All  th  nobs  on  a  range  not  attached  •  be  the 

tlues,  and  eat  I  doors  must  be  o; 

AT  A  TIME,  and  the  soot  swept  down  with  a  brush  const  ;  the 

purpo  a  long  flexible  handle  and  a  head  like  a  bottle-brush. 

:  ;hest  flue-door  is  located  in  the  breast  of  th-  v.  and  the 

mmence   there.     Usually  a  c<>  !e   amount 

1  lodged  a  t  be  swept 

>ved  from  the  lowest  soot  door.     A  ring  away 

•ust  be  swept  out  and  thoroughly  washed 
soda,  to  he  grease  ;   and  when  necessary,  the 

front 

!y  dry  before  applying  the 
;nore  brilliant  polish  if  i  1  with 

ad  of  water.     The  steel  mouldings  should  be  cleaned 
with  ;  nd  emery  powder,  or  when  badly  stained,  with  vii 

Construction   of   a   Good   Stove.  —  Both  cooking-ranges  and   ccx 

are  constructed  of  steel,  malleable  iron,  wrought-iron  and  cast- 
Of  these,  the  cast-iron  stoves  are  the  least  expensive  ;  but 
i  be  recommended,  because  they  are  liable  to  crack  ;  they  usually 

i-  to  imjx^rfect  construction,  frequently  sm«-k 

\YelI-tMnxtructed  stoves  made  of   malleable 

are  usuallv   mr-ti-ht.  uivc   more  evenly- 

.   and  arc  altogether  better  in   many  respects.     Good 

do    not    allow  the  gases  and  fumes  of  the  coal,  or  the  soot 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


to  invade  the  oven  ;  and  the  fire-box  and  oven  are  protected  from 
undue  draughts  which  would  affect  the  consumption  of  fuel  or  the 
temperature  of  the  oven.  No  oven  can  satisfactorily  roast  and  bake 
unless  provided  with  a  reversing  damper  by  which  the  heat  may  be 
directed  to  the  top  or  bottom  of  the  oven  as  required.  One  or  two 
of  the  best  types  have  an  adjustable  fire-box,  which  may  be  lowered 
when  an  open  fire  is  needed  for  roasting,  or  a  good  bottom  heat  for 
baking  ;  or  raised  when  a  top  heat  is  desired  in  the  oven,  or  the  hot- 
plate only  required  for  boiling  and  frying  purposes.  They  have  also 
well-ventilated  ovens,  whereby  the  proper  flavour  of  the  materials 
cooked  is  retained  ;  and  fire-boxes  fitted  with  vertical  bars  placed 
rather  close  together,  but  sufficiently  narrow  in  section  to  allow  any- 
thing to  be  properly  cooked  in  front  of  the  fire.  There  are  many 
reliable  firms  who  construct  ranges  on  these  principles  ;  and  the 
annexed  list  of  prices  is  an  average  of  those  of  three  of  the  best  makers. 
Ranges  of  corresponding  size  and  quality  of  the  respective  firms  are 
fairly  uniform  in  price  ;  but  there  is  a  wide  difference  in  the  cost  of 
ranges  of  corresponding  size  made  by  individual  firms,  due  chiefly 
to  the  expensive  tiling  and  elaborate  finish  of  the  various  details  of 
some  of  the  ranges,  which  improve  their  appearance  but  add  nothing 
to  their  value  in  other  respects.  A  good  plain  range,  easily  convertible 
into  a  close  or  open  fire,  fitted  with  an  adjustable  fire-box,  plate  rack, 
ventilating  doors,  reversing  damper,  patent  cinder  sifter,  bright  steel 
mouldings  and  bright  steel  bracket-shelves  under  the  oven  may  be 
had  at  the  following  prices  : — 


WIDE. 

HIGH. 

WITH  ONE  OVEN. 

WITH  TWO  OVENS. 

3  ft.  6  in. 

4  ft.  9  in. 

£lO    10      0 

£12    o    o 

4  ft. 

4  ft.  9  in. 

1200 

13     o    o 

4  ft.  6  in. 

4  ft.  9  in. 

13  10    o 

I  ^      O      O 

5  ft. 

4  ft.  9  in. 

15     o    o 

16  10    o 

5  ft.  6  in. 

5  ft- 

17  10    o 

19    o    o 

The  Kitchener. —  The  term  "  range  "  has  been  used  to  distinguish 
the  stove  fixed  in  its  place  by  brickwork  from  the  stove  or  kitchener 
which  may  stand  in  any  part  of  the  room  altogether  independent  of 
its  surroundings  except  the  connecting  tube  that  carries  away  the 
products  of  combustion.  This  tube  has  a  diameter  of  some  eight  or 
ten  inches  ;  and  where  there  is  no  chimney  it  must  be  carried  to  the 
outer  wall  and  up  the  side  of  the  house  to  a  suitable  level,  otherwise 
there  is  a  strong  down-draught.  When  used  in  England,  the  stme  is 
usually  placed  in  or  near  the  recess  provided  for  a  range,  and  the  iron 
tube  passes  into  the  chimney.  This  arrangement  is  to  be  recommended, 
for  the  tube  frequently  becomes  red -hot,  and  has  often  been  a  source 


L 


COOKING,    ETC.    BY    ELECTRIC    HEAT, 


L 


Double  Hot  Plate,   Frying  Pan,  Small  Range,   Radiator  (Stove),   Stewpan, 
Radiator  (Stove),  Grill. 


THE    KITCHEN  53 

of  great  danger  in  the  Canadian  settlements  where  such  stoves  are 
largely  used.  The  small  portable  stoves  are  made  in  different  sizes  ; 
the  smallest  is  21  inches  long,  two-thirds  of  its  length  being  appropriated 
by  an  oven,  and  the  remaining  space  by  the  fire-grate.  The  cost  of 
such  a  stove  is  about  305.  or  355. 

The  Canadian  Kitchener  represents  a  more  useful  type  of  portable 
stove.  The  medium  size  costs  from  £4  los.  to  £$  los.  The  fire-box 
may  be  closed  or  opened  as  desired  ;  and  its  great  depth,  combined 
with  the  narrow  bars,  greatly  facilitates  the  process  of  roasting.  These 
stoves  are  frequently  used  in  rooms  where  temporary  cooking  accom- 
modation is  required  ;  and  when  properly  constructed  and  provided  with 
a  good  draught  they  may  be  pronounced  satisfactory  in  many  respects. 

The  central  ranges  used  in  large  kitchens  are  based  on  an  altogether 
different  principle.  The  flames  from  the  burning  coke  or  coal  travel 
over  the  roof  and  down  the  sides  of  the  oven  into  an  underground  flue, 
which  runs  to  an  outer  wall,  thence  up  the  side  of  the  building. 


COOKING  BY  GAS,    OIL,  AND  ELECTRICITY 

Gas  Stoves.— From  the  consideration  of  ranges  in  which  cooki 
performed  by  the  combustion  of  solid  fuel,  it  is  necessary  to  turn  to 
those  in  which  gas  is  the  fuel  employed.  Cooking  by  gas  has  been 
much  on  the  increase  in  late  years,  the  gas  companies  in  various 
localities  lending  all  the  aid  in  their  power  to  further  it  by  supplying 
their  customers  with  gas  stoves,  or  ranges,  at  a  low  annual  rental. 

Cooking  by   Gas   has   much  to  recommend  it.     Gas   kitcheners   are 
compact,  as  no  space  has  to  be  provided  for  furnace  or  ash-pit, 
are  cleanly,  causing  no  dust  or  smoke,  and  consequently  can  be  kept  in 
perfect  order  with  little  trouble.     And  they  are  easily  managed  even 
bv  inexperi. -mod   girls.     The  mere  turning  on  of  one  or  more  taps 

ted  match  to  the  burner  or  hi;. 

tchener  in  workin  without  loss  of  time.      Thus  there  is 

•my,  as  hid  is  only  consumed  when  heat  is  actually    reoi 
More-  •  rrature  can  be  speedily  produced 

.1  rol.   an  . 
vfilne  to  cook  :nul  hou  e\vitr.     As  gas  burners  are  provided  for  l>« 

.    hot-plat.-   ami    x"IK  ont  r-.lleil.    it    is   possible 

to  prepare  a  large  dinner  on  a  gas  kitchener  with  comfort,  security 
and  economy.  (  >i  late  \  \  strides  have  been  made  in  the  d 

and  construction  of  gas  kitcheners,  which  now.  with  their  enamelled 
OVenS,  and  tops,  wrought  Sted  -nilim;  bars,  atmosplu-ric  burners  and 
oth.-r  improvements.  ha\e  reached  a  Iii-h  .  m.  \Vith 

dne<  are,  it  is  impossible  to  spoil  a  dinner  on  a:  .    Actual  experi- 

ment has  proved  that  meat  and  other  food  hi,  and  retains 

more    >f  its  flavour  when  rooki-d   l>v  -as,  than  if  cooked   by  «>al.      It 
shown   that    me.it    COoked    in   a   «-al  he.ited  oven   loses  about 


54  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

35  per  cent,  of  its  weight,  in  a  gas  oven  only  25  per  cent.  This  immense" 
saving  is  no  doubt  due  to  the  more  evenly  distributed  and  less  fierce 
temperature. 

It  is  essential  that  gas  kitcheners  should  be  kept  scrupulously  clean. 
The  enamelled  parts  inside  and  out  should  be  rubbed  down  when  cold 
with  a  sponge  or  cloth  dipped  in  warm  water,  and  then  wiped  dry. 
The  gas  burners  should  be  kept  free  from  dust.  Any  grease  on  the 
kitchener  should  be  carefully  removed.  If  these  precautions  are  taken 
and  the  burners  properly  lighted,  aJl  disagreeable  odours  will  be  avoided, 
and  certainty  of  results  ensured. 

Advantages  of  Cooking  by  Gas. — There  are  many  features  to  recommend 
cooking  by  gas,  chief  among  which  are — 

(1)  Cleanliness,  and  the  readiness  by  which  the  fire  can  be  lighted 
and  extinguished,  facilities  which  are  conducive  to  economy,  because 
the  fire  need  only  be  maintained  when  it  is  required  for  cooking. 

(2)  It  is  economical  in  another  respect,  because  meat  cooked  by  gas 
has  been  found  to  lose  less  weight  than  when  cooked  in  an  oven  heated 
by  coal. 

(3)  The  heat  can  be  readily  and  instantly  regulated,  being  concen- 
trated precisely  where  required  by  means  of  the  different  burners, 
each  of  which  is  independent  of  the  other. 

(4)  Gas  stoves  are  especially  useful  in  summer  and  in  small  house- 
holds, where,  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  no  fire  is  needed. 

(5)  Saucepans  and  other  vessels  may  be  kept  as  clean  outside  as 
inside. 

(6)  Cooking  by  gas  is  less  heating,  and  consequently  less  tiring  tc 
the  person  employed,  than  cooking  by  a  coal-range. 

Construction  of  Gas  Stoves. — The  oven  of  a  well- constructed  gas  stove 
is  made  either  entirely  of  cellular  cast  iron  and  jacketed  all  over  with 
slag  wool,  or  it  is  made  with  a  double  casing  with  an  intermediate  hot- 
air  jacket.  This  is  necessary  to  prevent  heat  being  conducted  from 
the  oven  to  the  surrounding  air.  The  gas-burners  are  not  always 
inside  the  oven  ;  when  they  are,  the  oven  should  have  no  bottom, 
or  if  it  has,  there  must  be  some  provision  made  for  admitting 
atmospheric  air  to  mingle  with  the  gas.  The  mixture  of  air  and  gas 
produc2S  a  bluish  light  ;  when  the  light  is  yellow  (while  using  the 
atmospheric  burners)  the  stove  is  wrongly-constructed  in  this  respect. 
or  it  has  not  been  lit  in  a  proper  manner.  The  inside  of  the  oven 
and  the  top  of  the  stove  should  be  lined  with  porcelain  enamel,  in 
order  that  it  may  be  easily  kept  clean.  The  oven  should  be 
provided  with  some  efficient  means  of  ventilation,  whereby  the 
vitiated  air  may  be  carried  away,  and  the  mixed  flavour  which  some- 
times pervades  different  materials  cooked  in  the  same  oven  may 
be  obviated.  The  best  stoves  arc  provided  with  a  patent 
reversible  grill  which,  when  deflected  downwards,  may  be  used 
for  grilling  meat  or  toasting  bn-a/JL  The  rings  on  the  top  of  the 


THE    KITCHEN  55 

stove  should  be  provided  with  ATMOSPHERIC  burners,  which  produce 
a  blue  flame,  a  mixture  of  gas  and  air,  of  higher  heating  power 
consumption  of  less  gas)  than  the  white  flame  produced  by  the  LUMIN- 
OUS burners. 

Gas  Fires. — The  great  advantages  of  gas  over  coal  fires  consists  in  the 
complete  absence  of  ashes  and  dirt  ;  in  the  fact  that  a  bright  hot  fire 
can  be  obtained  at  any  moment,  night  or  day  ;  that  the  heat  can  be 

i ted  at  will,  or  the  fire  extinguished  when  not  required  ;  in 
dispensing  with  the  necessity  of  carrying  coal  into,  and  ashes  and  refuse 
out  of,  the  room  ;  in  the  freedom  of  the  atmosphere  from  dust,  and  the 
consequent  saving  in  the  matter  of  furniture  dusting,  curtain  washing, 
etc.  Against  this  must  be  reckoned  the  greater  cost  of  gas  fires  as 
compared  with  coal  for  constant  use  ;  but,  notwithstanding  this,  there 
are  few  persons  who  have  once  used  a  good  gas  fire  that  could  be  per- 
suaded to  return  to  the  old  method  of  heating.  For  bedrooms,  and 
occasional  using,  a  gas  fire  is  always  economical,  as  compared  with 
coal  ;  in  fact,  the  expense  and  great  trouble  of  coal  fires  for  bedrooms 
render  their  use  sometimes  prohibitory,  whereas  a  good  hot  gas  fire 
can  be  obtained  for  half  an  hour,  night  and  morning,  at  a  cost  of  6d. 
per  week  or  less.  In  the  sick-room  a  gas  fire  is  simply  invaluable  ; 
its  steadiness,  night  and  day,  and  the  perfect  control  over  the  warmth 
of  the  room  arc  far  above  the  possibilities  of  any  coal  fire.  In  sudden 

vncies  the  instant  command  of  a  good  fire  in  the  ni^ht  is  some- 
times a  matter  of  life  or  death.  In  the  bronchial  affections  common 
in  this  country  warmed  air  is  frequently  of  the  utmost  importance, 
and  this  can  be  obtained  in  moderate  sized  rooms  by  a  gas  stove  pro- 
perly constructed,  with  a  regularity  and  economy  which  cannot  be 
approached  by  coal  or  coke.  Where  the  family  consists  of  only  two 
or  three  persons,  small  but  powerful  open  gas  fires,  with  an  oven  over 
the  fire  to  utilize  the  waste  heat,  will  be  found  of  the  greatest  value 
and  economy,  as  they  do  away  entirely  with  the  dirt  and  labour  of  coal 
fires,  and  yet  fill  all  the  purposes  of  a  small  kitchen  range.  These 
irv  now  to  be  procured  from  any  gas  Company,  hired  from  them,  or 
obtained  by  the  hire  purchase  system. 

Objections  to  Gas. — The  objections  to  the  use  of  gas  as  a  fuel  exist  only 
where  the  wrong  appliances  are  selected,  or  when  no  trouble  is  taken  to 
learn  their  proper  use.  One  of  the  most  common  causes  of  failure  with 
gas  fires  is  that  they  are  purchased  for  use  cither  where  there  is  no  flue 
or  whore  the  chimney  has  a  down  draught  ;  in  such  cases  as  these  the 
faults  which  cause  the  failure  of  a  coal  lire  will  be  equally  unfavourable 
to  a  gas  fire.  Burners  used  for  gas  cookers  must  be  kept  clear  and 
in  good  condition  ;  if  choked  with  dirt  and  grease,  they  will  be  as  un- 
satisfactory as  burners  used  for  lighting  under  the  same  conditions. 

and  kettles  must  be  kept  clean  outside,  or  they  make  an  un- 

:iit   smell,   and    ovens    must  \w  kept  clean  inside  for  the  same 
'-•-o  for  the  sake  of  sweet  flavours  in  the  food. 


56  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Oil  Stoves. — A  well-constructed,  cleanly  kept  and  well-managed  oil 
stove  will  cook  food  as  well  as  any  other  stove  of  corresponding  capa- 
city ;  and  with  proper  care  there  should  be  neither  smoke  nor  odour 
from  the  flame.  These  stoves  are  sometimes  a  great  convenience  in 
places  not  within  reach  of  gas.  No  flue  is  required  for  their  use  ;  and 
being  small  they  can  be  easily  conveyed  from  place  to  place.  Cooking 
on  an  oil  stove  may  be  done  20  per  cent,  cheaper  than  by  any  other 
means  ;  but  unless  the  wicks  are  kept  well-trimmed  and  the  stoves 
properly  managed,  they  emit  a  disagreeable  smell  and  smoke.  In  a 
properly  constructed  stove  there  is  not  much  danger  from  explosion, 
unless  a  light  is,  through  carelessness,  brought  in  contact  with  the  oil. 

Cooking  by  Electricity  is  now  quite  practicable,  though  for  the  present 
decidedly  expensive.  The  heat  is  obtained  from  the  ordinary  electric 
lighting  mains,  the  current  being  made  to  pass  through  wires  coiled 
on  iron  or  steel  plates,  and  embedded  in  enamel,  having  the  same  ratio 
of  expansion  and  retraction  as  the  metal.  In  this  way  the  plates  of 
ovens,  sides  of  boilers,  hot-plates  and  corrugated  grills  can  be  heated. 
Stewpaus  and  kettles  are  heated  separately,  these  having  double 
bottoms  with  the  wires  coiled  between,  *ind  the  current  conveyed  by 
flexible  silk  covered  wires  connected  with  a  special  fitting  at  the  end 
of  the  handles.  There  is  practically  no  loss  of  heat,  as  the  electrical 
connexion  is  only  made  when  cooking  is  in  actual  progress.  The 
system  also  of  course  ensures  freedom  from  dust  and  dirt,  or  undue 
radiatior  in  the  kitchen.  It  may  be  mentioned  that  the  King's  yacht 
(constructed  for  her  late  Majesty,  Queen  Victoria)  is  fitted  up  with  a 
complete  electric*  kitchen  outfit,  including  soup  and  coffee  boilers,  hot- 
plates, ovens,  grills  and  hot  closets.  As  some  municipalities  are  now 
supplying  the  electric  current  in  the  daytime  at  as  low  a  rate  as  2d. 
per  Board  of  Trade  unit,  it  is  probable  that  cooking  by  electricity  is 
destined  to  undergo  a  rapid  development. 


CULINARY  UTENSILS. 

Stewpans  and  Saucepans. — Stewpans  and  saucepans  are  usually,  though 
not  necessarily,  circular  in  form,  provided  with  a  long  handle,  a  lid 
or  cover,  and  sometimes,  in  the  smaller  kinds,  with  a  lip  for  the  better 
and  easier  transference  of  its  contents  to  another  vessel.  The  term 
saucepan  is  applied  indiscriminately  to  all  kinds  of  saucepans  and 
Stewpans  ;  but  the  name  stewpan  is  generally  used  to  denote  the 
shallower  pans  with  straight  sides  and  flat  long-handled  covers ; 
it  should  never  be  applied  to  an  iron  saucepan.  Stewpans  arc  made  in 
copper  ;  wrought  steel  ;  tin,  enamelled  inside  and  out  ;  and  iron. 
Saucepans  arc  made  in  copper  ;  brass  ;  iron,  tinned  inside  ;  iron, 
enamelled  inside  ;  block  tin  ;  tin,  enamelled  inside  and  outside. 
Stewpans  generally  have  straight  sides  ;  but  saucepans  vary  in 


THE    KITCHEN 


57 


shape,  as  shown  in  the  illustrations, 
as  follows  : — 


Their  capacity  and  prices  range 


DESCRIPTION. 

SIZE, 

In.  in 

diutr. 

CAPA- 

«  ITY. 

Pints. 

PRICE. 

Copper  Stewpans 

and  Covers, 

Best  quality      . 
Second 

4 
4 

I 
I 

6s. 

Best           „       .      . 

5 

2 

i» 

Second 

5 

2 

" 

Best 

6 

3 

8s.  yl. 

» 

Second       ,, 

6 

3 

75.  gd. 

Best            ,,       .      . 

8 

7 

155.  3d. 

t> 

tf 

Second       ,,       .      . 

8 

7 

1  JS.    1  K/. 

ii 

„       •      . 

10 

14 

235.  9</. 

ft 

Secmid        ,, 

10 

14 

M 

.       - 

i  a 

22 

355. 

•id 

12 

Wrought  Steel  Stewpans  with  Tin  I                          '  qlly. 

4 

I 

35.  3<*. 

ti 

M 

,, 

5 

2 

ii 

ii 

i>          • 

3 

ii 

ii 

7 

tt 

ii 

i  . 

8 

7 

,  , 

10 

«4 

M 

ti 

i  _• 

22 

M 

>( 

.. 

14 

H 

Cast-Iron  with  r.l< 

>ck-Tin  Covers,  r.est  quality 

A 

I 

f> 

f  f 

t> 

2 

15.     jf/. 

M 

,  , 

i. 

25. 

,t 

7* 

,, 

35. 

>( 

ii 

» 

M 

,, 

» 

,, 

,, 

» 

M 

" 

,. 

12 

The  prices  and  capacity  of  saucepans  ard  other  articles  are  taken  lioin 
the     illustrated    catalogues    and    price    lists    of    tli  'inns     and 

stores  in  London.    Enamelled  saucepans  are  not  often  used  in  kitchens 
where   much  cooking  is  done.     They  are  inexpensive  but  not 
durable  ;    they  answer  very  well  for  boiling  milk,  but  anything  thick- 
ened  with  flour,  if  allowed   to  stand,   quit  kly  burns  at  the  bottom. 
The  wroiiL;ht-s'  pans  arc  more  expensive  but  decidedly  i  I 

in   the  end.      They  ill   the  advantages  of  cupper  \\ithuut    .'n\ 

of  its  drawbacks  ;    they  .in-  easily  kept  clean,  anything  tncked  m  them 

!.  and  thickened  sauces  may  be  simmered 

in  them  for  hours  without  injury,  if  occasionally  stirred.      The  insidcs 

of  the  saucepans   require   re-tinning  occasionally  ;     but   when   the   tin 

oft  they  are  as  harmless  as  before,  bcinjj  made  of  steel.      Cupper 

MIIS  al^.  air  very  durable  ;    in  last  a  lifetime,  and  are 


58  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

an  ornament  to  the  kitchen  when  kept  beautifully  clean,  as  they  should 
be  ;  but  this  entails  considerable  labour,  a  point  to  be  considered 
where  few  servants  are  kept.  Copper  utensils  should  be  frequently 
examined  and  re-tinned  as  soon  as  the  linings  begin  to  show  signs 
of  wear.  One  of  the  objections  to  the  use  of  copper  for  culinary  pur- 
poses is  its  liability  to  become  coated  with  verdigris,  or  copper-rust, 
under  careless  or  unskilful  hands — verdigris  being  a  poison  imparting 
its  deadly  properties  to  any  food  cooked  in  a  vessel  that  is  tainted 
with  it. 

Boiler  or  Boiling  Pot. — In  large  families  this  utensil  comes  into  almost 
daily  requisition.  It  is  used  for  boiling  large  joints,  hams,  puddings, 
etc.,  and  is  usually  made  of  iron.  Boilers  may  be  had  in  cast  iron, 
tinned  inside,  to  hold  from  3  gallons  to  7  gallons,  at  from  4.$.  9d.  to 
i  os.,  according  to  size  ;  in  wrought  iron,  with  bright  cover,  to  hold 
from  4  gallons  to  12  gallons,  from  128.  to  26s. 

The  Digester. — This  utensil  is  a  kind  of  stock-pot,  made  of  iron,  having 
a  lid  which  fits  closely  into  a  groove  at  the  top  of  it.  No  steam 
escapes,  therefore,  by  the  lid  ;  and  it  is  only  through  the  valve 
at  the  top  of  the  cover  that  the  superfluous  steam  passes  off. 
It  is  a  very  valuable  utensil,  inasmuch  as  by  using  it  a  larger  quantity 
of  wholesome  and  nourishing  food  may  be  obtained  at  much  cheaper 
rates  than  is  possible  without  it,  and  when  bones  are  boiled  in  it  its 
action  will  extract  every  nutritive  particle  from  them,  leaving  nothing 
but  the  inorganic  part  of  the  bones.  This  utensil,  when  in  use,  should 
not  be  placed  over  a  fierce  fire,  as  that  would  injure  the  quality  of  the 
preparation  ;  for  whatever  is  cooked  must  be  done  by  a  slow  and 
gradual  process,  the  liquid  being  just  kept  at  the  simmering  point. 
These  digesters  are  made  in  all  sizes,  and  may  be  obtained  to  hold  from 
4  quarts  to  16  quarts.  The  prices  of  digesters  vary  according  to 
capacity,  namely,  to  hold  4  quarts,  35.  9d.;  6  quarts,  55.;  8  quarts,  6s.; 
10  quarts,  73.;  12  quarts,  8s.;  and  16  quarts,  IDS.  6d. 

The  Stock-pot. — This  article  is  used  in  the  preparation  of  stock,  which 
forms  the  foundation  of  soups,  gravies,  etc.  Stock-pots  are  made  in  cop- 
per, wrought  steel  or  iron.  Copper  stock-pots  to  hold  8  quarts,  fitted  with 
tap  and  strainer,  are  supplied  in  a  good  quality  for  about  425.  6d.  The 
price  of  a  stock-pot,  of  corresponding  capacity,  in  wrought  steel  would  be 
2os.  9d.  with  tap  and  strainer,  and  1 2S.  3d.  without  these  conveniences. 
They  may  also  be  obtained  in  wrought  iron  and  earthenware,  the 
latter  being  specially  suited  to  small  households,  because  a  smaller 
amount  of  heat  is  required  to  keep  the  contents  at  simmering  point 
and  the  stock- pot  need  not  be  emptied  every  day.  The  tap  and 
strainer  add  about  30  per  cent,  to  the  cost  of  a  stock-pot,  but  the 
advantage  of  being  able  to  draw  off  the  stock  from  the  bottom,  leaving 
the  fat  and  the  bones,  vegetables  and  other  solids  behind,  is  well  worth 
the  additional  outlay. 

The  Braising  Pan. — This  vessel  is  employed  in  a  culinary  process, 


THE    KITCHEX  59 

termed  braising  or  braizing.  In  shape  it  may  be  cither  round  or  oval, 
with  a  depressed  lid  in  which  hot  charcoal  is  placed,  whereby  the  meat 
is  cooked  between  two  slow  fires.  This  method  is  said  to  develop 
more  fully  the  flavours  of  materials  cooked  ;  also  to  decrease  the  loss 
of  strength  and  flavour  by  evaporation  ;  it  is  largely  practised  in 
France.  In  England  the  braising-pan  is  frequently  placed  in  the  oven  in- 
stead of  under  charcoal,  the  latter  article  as  a  fuel  being  but  seldom  used. 

The  Double  or  Milk  Saucepan.  This  is,  on  a  small  scale,  what  the  BAIN- 
MARIE  is  on  a  larger  scale.  The  smaller  saucepan  fitting  into  the  larger 
one  is  either  lined  with  enamel  or  made  of  earthenware.  The  double 
saucepan  is  especially  useful  for  making  porridge  and  gruel,  and  boiling 
custards  and  milk.  It  may  also  be  usefully  employed  in  cooking  tapioca, 
sago,  semolina  and  other  farinaceous  substances,  when  the  oven  is 
being  used  for  other  purposes,  and  is  too  hot  for  the  long,  gentle  process 
of  cooking  they  require.  When  an  egg  is  added  to  any  of  these  pre- 
parations, it  should  be  mixed  in  just  before  the  pudding  is  put  into 
the  oven  to  brown.  The  double  saucepan  is  supplied  in  four  sizes, 
known  as  Nos.  i,  2,  3,  4,  and  sold  respectively  at  33.  3d.,  33.  Qd.,  43.  9d. 
and  6s.  6d.  The  lower  saucepan  is  made  of  block  tin,  and  when  in  use 
should  be  half  filled  with  water,  which  must  be  replaced  as  it  boils 
away,  otherwise  the  upper  saucepan  is  liable  to  crack. 

Steamers. — These  articles  consist  of  a  cylinder  of  tin,  tinned  iron 
or  copper,  made  to  fit  into  the  top  of  a  saucepan  and  to  carry  the 
saucepan  cover  as  its  lid.  The  lower  or  saucepan  portion  varies  in 
capacity  from  6  to  14  pints,  and  the  entire  appliance  is  sold  from 
2S.  6d.  to  43.  3d.,  according  to  size.  Larger  kinds,  containing  from 
6  to  12  quarts,  may  also  be  obtained.  Steamers  are  chiefly  used  in 
cooking  potatoes  and  puddings,  especially  those  containing  meat  or 
fruit.  When  the  potatoes  are  sufficiently  cooked,  the  water  in  the 
saucepan  should  be  poured  off  and  the  steamer  replaced.  The  heat 
from  the  saucepan  below  quickly  causes  the  moisture  remaining  in 
the  potatoes  and  the  steamer  itself  to  evaporate,  thus  converting  the 
latter  into  a  DRY  HOT  CLOSET,  in  which  the  cooking  of  the  potatoes  is 
completed.  Even  when  boiled,  potatoes  are  more  floury  when  the 
water  is  drained  off,  and  the  cooking  completed  this  way.  It  is 
possible  to  place  one  steamer  above  another,  and,  indeed,  some 
steam-cookery  vessels  are  constructed  to  carry  four  or  six  steamers, 
a  contrivance  being  provided  to  prevent  steam  from  one  department 
invading  another. 

The  Turbot  Kettle  and  Salmon  Kettle. — This  variety  of  fish-kettle  is 
arranged  to  suit  the  shape  of  the  fish  from  which  it  takes  its  name. 
It  is  shallow,  very  broad,  and  is  fitted  inside  with  a  drainer  similar  to 
that  in  other  fish-kettles.  Turbot-kettles  are  usually  supplied  in  three 
sizes  known  as  small,  middle  and  large.  These  sizes,  in  block-tin,  strong, 
arc  supplied  at  us..  MS.  and  iSs.  od.  The  salmon  kettle  is  a  long, 
narrow  utensil,  like  the  fish-kcttlc,  but  the  cover  has  a  handle  at 


60  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

each  end  instead  of  one  only  in  the  middle.  They  are  made  in 
copper,  with  draining  plates,  in  sizes  from  20  inches  to  30  inches  in 
length 

The  Fish  Pan,  or  Kettle. — This  utensil  is  fitted  with  a  drainer  inside, 
which  is  lifted  when  the  fish  is  sufficiently  cooked.  The  drainer 
is  then  laid  across  the  kettle,  and  the  fish  lifted  on  to  the  dish  with  the 
fish-slice — a  perforated  plate  attached  to  a  long  handle,  sold  at  is., 
is.  3d.  and  is.  6d.,  according  to  size.  Fish  kettles  are  longer  than  they 
are  wide,  and  are  made  either  with  handles  at  the  side,  or 
with  a  swing  handle,  like  that  of  a  pail.  The  former  is  the 
more  convenient  shape,  on  account  of  the  facility  which  the  two 
handles  at  the  ends  afford  for  putting  the  kettle  on  the  range  or  taking 
it  off.  Prices  range  from  35.  6d.  to  95.  for  kettles  in  strong 
block- tin  plate,  and  from  153.  to  425.  for  iron  kettles.  Copper  fish 
kettles,  from  16  inches  to  22  inches,  are  supplied  at  prices  ranging  from 
453.  to  853.  The  mackerel-kettle,  or  saucepan,  which  will  serve  as  a 
fish-kettle  for  all  long  fish,  such  as  whiting,  haddock,  etc.,  and  for  soles 
and  small  plaice,  is  an  elongated  saucepan,  with  cover,  and  having  a 
long  handle  on  one  side  and  an  iron  looped  handle  opposite  to  it  on 
the  other  side.  It  is  made  in  three  sizes,  sold  respectively  at  33.,  45. 
and  53. 

Fish  Fryer  and  Drainer. — This  is  an  admirable  contrivance  for  frying  fish, 
by  using  which  an  experienced  cook  is  much  more  likely  to  insure 
success  and  send  a  dish  of  fried  fish  properly  to  table.  It  is  in  shape 
not  unlike  a  preserving-pan  fitted  with  a  closely-made  wire  drainer  ; 
and  in  this  the  fish  is  placed  and  lowered  into  the  heated  fat.  As  in 
frying  fish  it  is  necessary  to  have  a  large  amount  of  fat,  the  depth  of  this 
kettle  gives  it  a  considerable  superiority  over  the  ordinary  frying-pan. 
There  is,  besides,  very  little  danger  of  the  fish  breaking,  for  being  lifted 
up  on  the  drainer  when  done,  it  is  easily  dished.  Cooked  in  this  manner 
the  fish  does  not  require  turning,  as  the  fat  quite  covers  it,  and  of 
course  browns  it  on  both  sides  at  once.  The  greasy  moisture,  too,  is 
more  effectually  got  rid  of.  Fat-pans  with  drainers  may  be  obtained 
from  a  good  ironmonger  at  the  following  prices  : — 

Extra  Strong  Copper,  with  Drainer : — 

i4-in.  i5-in.  i6-in.  ij-in.  18  in. 

l\   16    o         £200        £2     5     o        ^280         £2  14    o 

Strong  Wrought  Steel: — 

i2-in.        ij-in.        14-in.      i5-in.        i6-in.  i7-in.  i8-in. 

us.       us.  6d.      135.         153.        i6s.  6d.       i8s.  6d.       £i     o     o 

Wire  Vegetable  Strainer.— This  useful  article  consists  of  a  wire  frame, 
round  which  thinner  wire  is  coiled  and  fastened.  It  is  made  to  fit 
inside  a  stewpan  or  saucepan,  and  thus  forms  a  convenient  utensil  in 
which  to  boil  vegetables  and  to  lift  them  at  once  out  of  the  water  ;  or 


Till-     KITCHEN  61 

for  frying  whitebait,   or  parsley  or  sliced   vegetables  for  soups,  etc. 
in  sizes  from  6  inches  to  10  inches  in  diameter,  and  sold 
at  prices  from  28.  ^d.  to  ;-.,  according  to  size. 

The  Frying-pan. — This  article  is  so  well  known  that  it  is  only  necessary 
to  mentio:  sizes  and  prices.     They  may  be  had  either  round 

.1  in  form,  with  shelving  sides  ;    the  round  pans  being  made  in 
ng  from  -j\  inches  to  9  inches  at  from 

(;(!.  to  is.  2d.     The  oval  pans,  which  arc  more  commonly  use 
made  in  sizes  from  \\\  inches  to  15  inches  in  length,  and  are  supplied 
from   is.  to  2S. 

The  Omelet  Pan.— This  pan  is  a  variety  of  the  frying-pan,  and  gener- 
ally made  circular  in  form,  but  si.  than  the  frying-pan,  f. 
nee  in  turning  pancakes,  omelets,  etc.     These  pans  are    m 
bright  polished  wrought  iron,                :n  one  piece,  from  to  i«> 
in  diameter,  and  sold  from  55.  to  8s.  3d.     Bowl  omcl< 

made  8  i:  1  10  inches  m  di.i- 

•Id  at  75.,  8s.  and  <;s.  each.     Co;  with  bui: 

iron  handles,  range  from  6J  inches  to  16  inches  in  din  M  are 

sold  t:  !  of  the  -  bh  rounded 

or  bowl  bottoms  for  souffles,  arc  made  8  inches,  8}  inches  and  9  i 
in  d;  6d.,  los.  6d.  and  i  is.  6d.  each. 

The  Fricandeau  or  Cutlet  Pan.      I 

:  A  ith   upi  i  .    fr.'in   7  •«    i.}   in. 

nhng  t<> 

in  the 
'      . 
;  -lite  pan   I  . 

•n  the  om<  .tndle  nv  : 

ranging  from  7  inches  to  14 

.  and  sold  at  \  \\\  6s.  6d.  to  203.     A 

/es,  8  inches,  9  inches  and  10  inches  in  d:  extra 

•n-l   fur:  fricandeau-pan,  are  sold  at 

'5s.   and   ;>"•>. 

Bain-Marie  Pan  and  Stewpans,  etc. — The  bain-marie  is    not  used    so 
murh  :o  be  found  n 

In    sei  Urge    dinner  :  .ist  useful  ami 

•A  ith    lx.il  r   and 

range   or  kitchener.     The  sau« 

containing  rs,  etc.,  stand  in  the  water,  and 

•  intents  at  a  proper  heat  without  any  risk 

of  burning  or  loss  of  flavour.    If  the  hour  of  dinner  is  uncertain  in  any 
no  means  of  preserving  the  warmth  and  flavour  of   the 
!  is  so  sure  and  harmless  as  the  cm] 

09   re- 

soup- 

pot,  and  from  4  to  to  5j 


62  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

inches.  A  complete  set  of  7  strong,  well-made  tin  stewpans,  i  glaze- 
pot  and  i  soup-pot,  in  a  bain-marie  pan  of  wrought  steel,  may  be 
obtained  for  £2.  Or,  the  same  number  of  utensils  in  wrought  steel, 
fitted  in  a  bain-marie  pan,  16  x  12^  inches,  would  coet  ^3  133.;  and  in 
the  best  quality  of  copper  £6.  Larger  sizes  may  be  bought  at  a  corre- 
sponding increase  in  price. 

Warren's  Cooking  Pot  is  a  vessel  in  three  divisions,  in  which  meat  and 
vegetables  may  be  cooked  at  the  same  time,  but  in  separate  compart- 
ments. The  peculiarity  of  the  process  consists  in  cooking  without 
the  viands  coming  in  contact  with  water  or  steam  ;  the  meat,  kept 
from  water  entirely,  is  cooked  in  an  inner  cylinder,  the  outer  one 
containing  the  water,  being  kept  at  boiling  point.  The  food  thus 
prepared  is  cooked  in  its  own  vapour,  and  none  of  its  nutritious  pro- 
perties are  wasted.  These  utensils  are  also  convenient  where  cooking 
space  is  limited,  and  economical  when  cooking  by  gas,  because  one 
ring  of  burners  would  serve  instead  of  two  or  three.  The  price  of  the 
round  saucepan  is  from  75.  9d.  to  203.,  and  the  smaller  size  in  the 
oval  cooking  pot  costs  2 is. 

The  Bottle-jack. — The  action  of  this  familiar  piece  of  kitchen  furni- 
ture, so  called  from  its  resemblance  to  an  ordinary  glass  bottle,  is 
so  well  known  that  very  little  explanation  is  needed.  When  the 
joint  is  hooked  on,  the  jack  requires  winding  up,  an  operation  which 
must  be  repeated  once  or  twice  during  the  time  the  meat  is  cooking. 
A  bottle- jack  complete,  capable  of  carrying  a  joint  of  20  Ibs.,  may  be 
had  for  6s.  gd.  This  bottle- jack  is  large  enough  for  ordinary  family 
use  ;  but  larger  sizes,  to  carry  from  25  to  70  Ibs.  may  be  had  from 
8s.  6d.  to  2os.  In  cases  of  necessity  it  may  be  dispensed  with,  and  a 
suspender  formed  of  a  skein  of  worsted,  knotted  here  and  there 
throughout  its  length,  used  instead. 

Meat  Screen. — When  the  meat  is  roasting  a  meat-screen  should  be 
placed  in  front  of  the  fire,  to  concentrate  and  reflect  the  radiated  heat 
as  much  as  possible.  It  is  made  of  tin,  3  feet  in  width,  and  costs  128.  9d. 
to  1 55.  3d.  Round  screens  known  as  bottle- jack  screens,  having  bands 
at  the  top,  from  which  the  bottle-jack  is  suspended,  and  a  dripping- 
pan  in  the  bottom,  are  sold  in  three  sizes,  varying  in  price,  according  to 
stoutness  of  make,  as  follows  :  No.  i,  from  123.  6d.  to  26s.  ;  No.  2, 
from  155.  9d.  to  253.;  and  No.  3,  from  193.  6d.  to  303. 

The  Dripping-pan. — This  is  a  receptacle  for  the  droppings  of  fat  and 
gravy  from  the  roast  meat.  In  some  cases  it  forms  an  integral  part 
of  the  meat  screen,  but  when  it  is  separate  from  it,  it  is  supported 
on  an  iron  stand.  The  pan  is  arranged  with  a  well  in  the  centre, 
covered  with  a  lid,  and  round  this  well  is  a  series  of  small  holes,  which 
allow  the  dripping  to  pass  into  the  well  free  from  cinders  or  ashes. 
When  the  meat  is  basted,  the  lid  of  the  well  is  lifted  up.  The  basting- 
ladle  used  to  apply  the  dripping  to  the  meat  is  half  covered  over  at 
the  top  with  a  piece  of  metal  perforated  with  small  holes,  so  that 


THE    KITCHEN  63 

should  a  small  piece  of  cinder  get  into  the  ladle  it  will  lodge  there 
and  not  fall  on  the  meat.  Dripping-pans  of  block  tin,  with  wells,  are 
made  in  four  sizes,  ranging  in  price  from  25.  to  35.  6d.  Wrought 
iron  stands  for  these  dripping-pans  cost  from  35.  to  45.,  and  bast- 
ing ladles  from  is.  to  2s.  Extra  strong  wrought  iron  dripping- 
pans  with  wells,  and  mounted  on  wrought  iron  legs,  range  in  size  from 
2  feet  6  inches  to  4  feet  in  length,  and  cost  from  335.  to  905.,  according 
to  size.  Strong  wrought  iron  basting  ladles  to  accompany  these  ap- 
pliances are  made  in  three  sizes,  namely,  4, 4^  and  5  inches  in  diameter, 
costing  73.  6d.  8s.  6d.  and  los.  6d.  respectively. 

Double  Baking-pan  and  Stand. — Closely  akin  to  the  dripping-pan  used 
in  open-fire  roasting  is  the  double  baking-pan  and  stand  used  in  ranges 
and  kitcheners  for  baking  meat,  poultry,  etc.  These  are  usually 
supplied  with  ranges  and  kitcheners  when  first  purchased  ;  but  some- 
times it  is  necessary  to  renew  them.  The  lower  pan  contains  water  which 
ma  v  be  added  through  the  opening  in  the  lower  right-hand  corner,  nuule 
by  a  depression  in  the  inner  pan  ;  the  JK -i -fWated  shield  or  hood,  cover- 
ing th'.'  opposite-  corner  being  used  for  pouring  off  the  dripping.  These 
-ire  supplied  in  oblong  form,  from  13  inches  to  18  inches  in  length, 
at  prices  ranging  from  35.  Qd.  to  73.  6d.;  or  square,  from  u  inches 
6  inches,  from  45.  to  75.  It  may  be  added  that  single  pans  arc 
supplied  in  the  above  sizes,  oblong,  from  is.  2d.  to  2S.;  and  square, 
from  is.  4d.  to  2s. 

The  Gridiron. — This  utensil,  which  in  its  ordinary  form  consists  of  a 
frame  supported  on  four  short  legs,  one  at  each  corner,  and  with  round 
bars  from  front  to  back,  and  a  handle  at  the  back  of  the  frame,  is  used 
for  broiling  purposes  of  all  kinds.  The  round  bar  gridiron  is  made 
with  from  8  to  12  bars,  according  to  size,  and  is  sold  at  from  lod.  to 
is.  3d. 

Hanging  Gridiron. — The  hanging  gridiron  consists  of  a  double  frame, 
similar  in  form  to  the  bed  or  platform  of  the  ordinary  gridiron.  Below 
the  frames  is  a  small  trough  or  pan,  in  which  the  dripping  or  gravy 
running  from  the  meat  is  taught,  and  above,  the  centre  bars  in  each 
frame  project  upwards,  forming  the  means  of  keeping  the  frames 
together  when  the  meat  is  placed  between  them,  by  a  wire  ring,  square 
in  form,  that  is  slipped  over  them.  The  hanging  gridiron  is  suspended 
before  the  fire,  on  bars  fastened  to  hooks,  which  slip  over  the  top  bar 
of  the  range.  Hooks  are  attached  to  the  inner  frame  to  take  slices 
of  bacon,  chops,  steaks,  etc.,  when  placed  between  the  frames,  and  to 
keej)  them  in  a  proper  position.  These  gridirons  are  made  of  wrought 
iron  with  from  8  to  12  bars,  and  are  sold  at  35.  6d.  and  55.  each,  accord- 
lo  size. 

American  Grip  Broiler  and  Toaster. — This  grilling  utensil  is  most  useful 
and  desirable  for  broiling  steaks,  chops,  fish,  etc.     It  is  made  of  polished 
with  perforation  in  both  plates,   having  their  edges  turned  in- 
wards.    Thus  it  may  be  turned  over  on  the  lire  without  the  escape  and 


64  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

consequent  loss  of  any  of  the  fat  or  gravy  coming  from  the  meat, 
etc.,  the  basting  process  being  self-acting,  and  the  flavour  of  the  meat, 
etc.,  being  fully  retained.  The  perforations  being  turned  inwards,  grip 
the  meat  or  fish  firmly,  and  prevent  any  motion  from  one  part  of 
the  pan  to  another.  By  frequent  turning  the  gravy,  etc.,  is  distributed 
over  the  upper  surface  of  the  meat  or  fish,  while  the  under  side  is  being 
acted  on  by  the  heat,  and  thus  uniform  tenderness  and  juiciness  of  the 
food  that  is  being  cooked  is  insured.  It  is  suitable  for  use  in  the 
openings  on  the  top  of  a  cooking  range  or  kitchener,  or  on  the  hot- 
plate of  a  close  fire  range  or  over  the  open  fire,  and  it  may  be  used  as 
a  bread  toaster  on  the  hot-plate  or  in  front  of  the  fire.  It  is  made  in 
two  sizes,  namely,  9  inches  in  diameter,  sold  at  2s.,  and  10  inches,  at 
2S.  6d. 

Dutch  Oven. — The  Dutch  oven,  or  bacon  broiler  or  toaster,  is  made 
in  different  shapes,  but  the  principle  and  purpose  of  each  is  precisely 
the  same,  and  consists  of  a  flat  bottom  with  triangular  sides  rising 
from  it  at  each  end.  The  bottom  is  fitted  with  a  shallow  dripping- 
pan,  over  which,  with  the  ends  inserted  near  the  top  of  each  triangular 
sidepiece,  is  a  bar  with  hooks  arranged  at  regular  intervals.  On  the 
external  surface  of  each  side  is  a  handle,  by  which  the  utensil  may  be 
placed  on  or  removed  from  the  plate  hanger,  which  consists  of  a  sliding 
plate  on  two  bars,  -terminating  in  hooks  in  front,  to  hang  on  the  bars 
of  the  range.  Attached  to  the  sides  of  the  Dutch  oven  at  the  very 
apex  of  each,  is  a  cover,  or  flap,  which,  in  consequence  of  being  fixed 
on  a  swivel,  may  be  used  on  either  side.  The  advantage  of  this  rever- 
sible cover  is  that  by  turning  the  utensil  round  on  the  plate  hanger 
and  reversing  the  flap,  each  side  of  the  meat  or  bacon  that  is  being 
cooked  can  be  presented  to  the  fire  quickly,  without  turning  it  on  the 
hooks.  Prices  vary  according  to  size  ;  one  10  inches  long,  and  fitted 
with  four  or  five  hooks,  would  cost  2s.  6d.  ;  12  inches,  2s.  9d.;  14  inches, 
33.  6d. 

Toast  Grid. — The  toast  grid  for  toasting  bread  is  a  utensil  used  for 
toasting  bread  on  the  hot-plate  of  a  range  ;  but  if  the  front  of  an  open- 
fire  range  be  large  enough,  and  the  heat  sufficient,  it  may  be  used  there 
with  equal  convenience  and  facility.  It  consists  of  two  frames  covered 
with  wire,  between  which  the  bread  is  placed  ;  the  frames  are 
supplied  with  wire  handles,  which  can  be  held  together  with  a  sliding 
ring.  These  grids  are  sold  at  is.  3d.  and  is.  Qd. 

UTENSILS  AUXILIARY  TO  COOKING. 

Auxiliary  Utensils. — To  describe  everything  that  it  is  possible  to  intro- 
duce into  the  kitchen  for  use  therein  is  neither  practicable  nor  desirable. 
From  the  thousand  and  one  articles,  however,  that  might  be  enu- 
merated, some  few  may  be  selected  that  hold  a  prominent  place  either 
from  the  frequency  with  which  they  are  brought  into  use,  or  from  the 
obvious  necessity  that  exists  for  having  them  at  hand  when  required. 


KITCHEN  UTENSILS. 


i.  Bottle   K.Mstiim   I. irk.     j.   Mincing  Knife,  or  Suet  Chopper.     3.   Mrat    Chopper. 
4.  Frvin-  Pan-*.  Meat  Cover.     <•.  Pestle  and  Mortar.     7-  Mincing  or  Sausage 

M  ichiiu-.  with    Fable  Clamp.     S.   I)««ubh'  Uakia-   I'.ui.  with  M-.it  Stand.    9.  Drip  Pan. 
with  Iia>tin.;  L  ulle.     10.   Bottle  Jack  Roast  i 


KITCHEN  UTENSILS. 


i.  Household  Weighing  Machine.  2.  Oval  Boiling  Pot.  3.  Turbot  Kettle. 
4.  Copper  Preserving  Pan.  5.  Fish  Kettle.  6.  Bain  Marie  Pans.  7.  Iron  Stockpot 
with  Tap.  8.  Saucepan  and  Steamer.  9.  Steak  Tongs.  10.  Fish  Slice. 

8 


THE    KITCHEN  65 

Weights  and  Scales. — Our  list  of  utensils  may  well  start  with  this  most 
important  article  or  series  of  articles,  as  a  good  set  of  weights  and 
scales  is  absolutely  necessary  to  every  cook.  The  cook  should  bear  in 
mind  always  to  put  the  weights  away  in  their  respective  places  after 
they  have  been  used,  and  to  keep  the  scales  in  thorough  order.  In 
weighing  butter,  lard,  or  anything  that  is  of  a  greasy  nature,  a  piece 
of  paper  should  be  placed  in  the  scale  before  putting  in  the  substance 
to  be  weighed.  By  doing  this  much  labour  will  be  saved.  There  are 
many  reliable  kinds  of  weighing  machines,  but  the  ordinary  shop  scales 
and  weights  still  remain  the  most  popular,  and  the  price  of  a  set  of 
weights  and  scales,  with  weights  sufficient  to  weigh  from  ±  oz.  to  14  Ibs., 
is  i8s.  6d.,  and  to  weigh  28  Ibs.,  225.  6d.  Spring  balances  to  weigh  up  to 
200  Ibs.  cost  about  us.  and  will  often  be  found  a  great  convenience. 

Mincing  Machine. — This  time-  and  labour-saving  invention  is  almost  in- 
dispensable in  elaborate  culinary  preparations.  The  intending  purchas.  i 
has  a  wide  choice  as  regards  price,  size  and  variety  in  form.  Although 
the  principle  is  practically  the  same  in  all  machines,  they  ditler  in  many 
rosjvets  some  doing  their  work  more  thoroughly  than  othe 
being  more  easily  adjusted  and  kept  clean.  The  "  American  Two- 
Roller  Mincer"  is  to  be  highly  recommended  in  this  respect,  because 
the  rollers  arc  lined  with  enamel,  and  the  knives  so  arranged  that  they 
may  be  easily  cleaned.  These  machines  are  made  in  several  sizes  in 
two  qualities,  and  may  be  procured  at  any  ironmonger's,  and  cost  from 
os.  nil.  to  I2s  6d.  Ordinary  mincing  machines  may  be  obtained  at 
from  |s.  3d.  Mincing  machines  answer  admirably  for  quenelle  meal, 
i,  etc.,  when-  the  meat  is  mixed  with  other  ingredients  ;  but  meat 
to  be  served  as  ci.llops  or  mince  is  better  cut  by  hand,  as  the  parti- 
meat  must  i  ite  for  th«  .  not  crushed  into  a  line  mass.  Suet 

may  be  more  quickly  and  --rily  chopped  on  a  board  or  in  a  bowl 

than  by  a  mincing  machine,  for,  no  matter  how  much  flour  is  mixed  with 
it,  the  suet  sticks  to  the  blades  of  the  knives  and  forms  itself  into  a 
compact  mass.  There  are.  1..  .  <  hopping  machines  in  which  the 

knife  acts  on  the  material  on  the  same  principle  as  chopping  by  hand. 
They  are  not  gem-rally  used  in  small  households,  but  in  hens 

where  mu<  h   chopping  of  this  description  has  to  be  done,  they  are  most 
•;il. 

Brawn  Tin. --This  utensil  is  invaluable  in  preparing  brawn  or  collard 
he, id.  It  is  a  tin  cylinder  placed  on  a  foot  or  stand,  into  which  the 
superfluous  grai  B  when  the  meat  is  placed  in  tin-  cylinder  and 

put  under  pressure.  For  this  purpose  the  bottom  of  the  cylinder 
consists  of  a  movable  perforated  plate.  The  cylinder  is  not  soldered 
along  the  junction  of  the  ends  of  the  metal  of  which  it  is  composed, 
but  the  ends  overlap,  and  are  movable,  one  over  the  other,  to  a  certain 
extent.  By  this  means  the  cylinder  is  rendered  expansive  and  will 
expand  from  (>\  inches  in  diameter  to  S  inches.  It  is  sold  at  .js.  nd. 

Tongue  or  Brawn  Presser.     Tins  article  may  be  used  for  making  either 


66  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

brawn  or  collard  head,  like  the  brawn  tin  last  described  ;  or  it  may  be 
used  for  compressing  boiled  tongue  into  a  round,  in  which  shape  it  is 
most  conveniently  sent  to  table,  and  moreover  ensures  an  equal  dis- 
tribution of  the  fat  and  lean,  which  is  not  the  case  if  the  tongue  be  sent 
up  unpressed,  when  the  greater  part  of  the  fat  in  the  root  of  the 
tongue  is  sent  away  uneaten.  There  is  a  perforated  plate  at  the 
bottom  through  which  the  gravy  escapes,  and  a  flat  plate  acted  on  by  a 
powerful  screw  at  the  top,  by  which  the  contents  of  the  presser  are 
squeezed  to  flatness.  A  good  presser  may  be  bought  for  43.  6d. 

Rotary  Bread  Grater. — This  machine  grates  or  crumbles  the  bread 
without  leaving  a  particle  of  waste,  and  will  do  a  small  quantity.  The 
crumbs  made  by  this  process  are  much  finer  than  when  made  on  an 
ordinary  bread  grater.  This  grater  is  only  made  in  one  size  and 
quality  ;  the  price  complete  is  53.  6d. 

The  ordinary  bread  grater  has  smaller  perforated  plates  attached  to 
the  side  for  grating  nutmeg,  ginger,  etc.,  and  is  supplied  at  prices 
ranging  from  6d.,  according  to  size. 

Steak  Tongs. — When  meat  is  being  broiled  or  grilled,  to  prevent  the 
juices  of  the  steak  from  being  lost  by  pricking  the  meat  with  a  fork,  in 
turning  it  about  on  the  gridiron,  steak  tongs  are  brought  into  requisition 
for  handling  the  steaks  during  the  process.  By  making  use  of  these  the 
gravy  is  kept  in  the  meat.  These  are  supplied  at  prices  ranging  from 
2S.  upwards.  A  cutlet  bat  is  sometimes  used  for  beating  cutlets, 
chops,  etc.  ;  steaks,  if  beaten,  are  beaten  with  the  rolling-pin. 

The  Meat  Chopper  is  used  for  chopping  and  disjointing  bones. 
Their  price  varies  from  is.  6d.  to  2s.,  according  to  size.  Meat 
choppers  have  wood  handles.  Steel  cleavers  have  handles  of  steel, 
that  is  to  say,  blade  and  handle  are  made  all  in  one  piece.  They  are 
sold  at  from  33.  6d.  to  43.  6d.,  according  to  size. 

Meat  Saw. — A  meat  saw  is  used  for  sawing  bones  in  places  where 
a  chopper  is  not  available.  For  instance,  this  utensil  would  come  into 
requisition  where  a  knuckle  of  ham  is  required  to  be  severed  from 
the  thick  end.  The  meat  would  first  be  cut  all  round  down  to  the 
bone  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  the  bone  would  then  be  sawn  through. 
Good  meat  saws  are  sold  at  from  2s.  6d. 

Cook's  Knife. — The  knives  generally  used  by  cooks  are  made  very 
pointed  at  the  end  ;  and  for  cookery  purposes  the  slightly  convex 
blades  are  preferable  to  those  of  ordinary  shape.  They  are  made 
6  inches,  7  inches,  8  inches,  9  inches,  10  inches,  1 1  inches  and  12  inches 
in  length,  and  cost  in  the  best  quality  from  2s.  to  43.  each,  according 
to  length  of  blade  ;  and  from  rod.  to  is.  icd.  in  the  second  quality. 
Both  varieties  have  plain  ebony  handles.  Cook's  forks  are  made 
to  match  the  knives  ;  they  are  larger  and  stronger  than  ordinary 
forks,  and,  therefore,  better  suited  for  lifting  masses  of  meat,  etc., 
out  of  a  saucepan.  Prices  vary  from  is.  to  2S.  each,  according  to  length 
of  prong  ;  the  average  &nd  most  convenient  size  cost  about  2S.  or  2s.  6d, 


THE    KITCHEN  67 

French  Chopping  Knife. — The  chopping  knife  is  similar  in  shape  to 
the  cook's  knife  but  of  much  stronger  make.  It  may  be  had  in  two 
sizes,  each  made  in  two  qualities,  and  costing  respectively  35.  or  35.  gd., 
with  blades  measuring  9  inches  and  6s.  or  6s.  6d.,  with  blades  2  inches 
longer. 

Mincing  Knife. — A  knife  for  chopping  suet  or  mincemeat  on  a  wooden 
board.  As  it  is  made  with  a  firm  wooden  handle,  the  hand  does  not 
become  so  tired  as  when  usintj  an  ordinary  knife  on  a  board  ;  and 
the  chopping  is  accomplished  in  a  much  shorter  time.  These  imple- 
ments should  be  kept  sharp,  and  should  be  ground  occasionally.  There 
is  also  a  knife  half-circular  in  form  used  for  chopping  materials  in  a 
wooden  bowl.  A  good  mincing  knife  in  either  form  is  suppl; 

<>d. 

Chopping  Bowl  and  Board. — For  chopping  suet,  meat,  etc.,  with  the  half- 
circular  knife  a  wooden  bowl  should  be  provided.  They  are  made  from  10 
inches  to  1 6  inches  in  diameter,  the  smallest  size  being  is.  6d.;  but 
that  is  too  small  to  be  generally  useful,  a  more  convenient  size  is  the 
bowl  measuring  13  inches,  supplied  at  45.  A  chopping  board  costs 
abou  t 

Colander. — This  useful  article  comes  into  daily  requisition.  The 
most  convenient  and  strongest  form  is  that  of  a  round  tin  basin  with 
handles,  perforated  at  the  bottom  and  round  the  sides  with  small 
holes.  It  is  used  for  straining  vegetables,  these  being  poured  into 
•  -lander  when  they  arc  cooked,  and  allowed  to  remain  for  a 
minute  or  two  until  all  the  v.  drained  from  them,  when 

they  are  dished.  Colanders,  or  cullenders,  as  the  word  is  some- 
spelt,  are  made  in  four  sizes,  supplied  in  tin  at  from  is.  3d. 
to  2s.  6d.  each,  according  to  size.  They  are  also  to  be  had  in  strong 
tin  enamelled  inside  and  outside  from  is.,  according  to  size.  They 
possess  all  the  advantages  of  cleanliness,  freedom  from  rust,  etc.,  of 
perforated  earthenware  basins,  without  their  liability  to  be  cracked 
or  broken. 

Pestle  and   Mortar. — Pestles  and  mortars  are  made  of  iron,  brass, 

marble   and  Wedgwood  ware.     Those  of   marble  or  Wedgwood  \\an- 

lly  to  be  preferred,  as  they  can  be  easily  kept  clean.     This 

is  used    for    pounding   sugar,    spices   and   other    ingredients 

required  in    manv  ;  ns   of   the  culinary  art.      Potted   meat  is 

>oked.   minced    anil    then   pounded   in   a   mortar;    and    many 

must  be  pounded  before  they  can  be  rubbed  through  a 

s  and  mo;  >n,  are  made  in  M  ig  from  7 

to  10  inches,  taking  the  diameter  of  the  top   of   the   mortar, 

and   are   sold    at    i;  :  1.  to  33.  3d.,  according  to  size.     These 

include  Me  mortars  range  in  size  from  10  inches 

'>d.  to  95.  3d.     Pestles  of  hard- 
io    be     u-^-il    with     these     mortars,    cost    from    2S.    upwards, 


68  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Preserving  Pans. — Jams,  jellies,  marmalades  and  preserves  are  made 
in  these  utensils,  which  should  be  kept  scrupulously  clean,  and  well 
examined  before  being  used.  Copper  preserving  pans  range  in 
size  from  n  inches  to  18  inches  in  diameter,  in  capacity  from  5 
quarts  to  21  quarts,  and  in  price  from  145.  to  295.  Preserving  pans 
in  enamelled  cast  iron  are  sold  at  from  33.  6d.  upwards,  according 
to  size. 

Vegetable  Cutters. — Vegetables  are  cut  into  fanciful  shapes,  by  means 
of  these  little  cutters.  Stewed  steaks  and  such  dishes,  in  which  vege- 
tables form  an  important  addition,  are  much  improved  in  appear- 
ance by  having  these  shaped.  The  price  of  a  box  of  assorted  vegetable 
cutters  ranges  from  2s.  3d.  to  45.  6d.  Fancy  cutters  are  sold  at  2d. 
to  6d.  each.  These  cutters  can  be  made  useful  in  ornamenting  pastry, 
or  cutters  especially  made  for  pastry  can  be  had  at  3d.  each,  or 
in  boxes  from  is.  6d.  to  2S.,  according  to  make. 

Vegetable  Scoop. — This  implement  is  used  for  cutting  vegetables  into 
small,  pea-shaped  forms.  It  is  supplied  at  a  cost  of  6d. 

Cucumber  Slice. — For  shredding  cucumbers  into  the  thinnest  possible 
slices,  a  little  machine  is  often  used.  It  is  made  of  wood,  with  a 
steel  knife  running  across  the  centre,  and  sold  at  2s.  After  the 
cucumber  is  pared  it  should  be  held  upright,  and  worked  backwards 
and  forwards  on  the  knife,  being  borne  sufficiently  hard  to  make  an 
impression  on  the  cucumber. 

Paste-Board  and  Rolling  Pin. — Paste-boards  of  average  size,  made 
of  well-seasoned  deal,  with  clamped  ends,  are  supplied  at  2S.  6d.  or 
35. 6d.  When  not  in  use  they  should  be  kept  in  a  clean  dry  place,  other- 
wise they  may  become  mildewed,  and  the  stains  thus  caused  are  in- 
delible. Rolling-pins  are  made  in  two  shapes,  convex,  that  is,  taper- 
ing towards  each  end,  and  perfectly  straight.  The  shaped  ones  may 
be  very  dexterously  employed  by  a  skilful  cook  in  shaping  pastry  and 
dough  ;  but  novices  in  this  branch  of  the  culinary  art  should  select  a 
straight  rolling-pin.  Both  shapes  are  supplied  at  from  4d.  to  is., 
according  to  size,  and  the  quality  of  the  wood.  The  best  qualities  are 
made  from  well-seasoned  Indian  boxwood  ;  a  rolling  pin  of  this  de- 
scription, measuring  18  inches  in  length,  costs  2S.  3d. 

Sieves. — Sieves,  both  hair  and  wire,  are  made  in  various  sizes,  but  they 
are  inconvenient  unless  large  enough  to  fit  easily  over  large  basins,  into 
which  soup  is  usually  sieved  or  strained.  The  hair  sieves  are  used  prin- 
cipally for  vegetable  purees  and  other  substances  of  a  sufficiently  fine 
soft  nature  to  allow  them  to  be  readily  passed  through.  Some  of  the 
fibre  of  meat,  after  being  well  pounded,  may  be  rubbed  through  a  li.iir 
sieve,but  with  a  considerable  expenditure  of  time  and  strength,  therefore 
a  fine  wire  sieve  is  usually  selected  for  this  purpose.  A  fine  wire  sieve 
is  also  used  in  making  breadcrumbs.  Sieves  of  suitable  size  and  mesh 
for  ordinary  purposes  may  be  had  for  6d.  to  is.  2d. 

Paste   Jaggers. — These   are   used   for  trimming   and   cutting  pastry. 


THE    KITOIKN  69 

The  little  wheel  at  the  end  of  the  jagger  is  mad  I  e.  and  is  used 

for  marking  pastry  which  has  to  be  divided  after  it  is  baked.     The 

of  a  jagger  is  from  6d.  to  is.  6d. 

Coffee  and  Pepper  Mills. — Intent  improved  mills  for  grinding  coffee, 
pepp<.  etc.,  may  be  had  to  fix  permanently  to  the  wall,  or 

temporarily  to  the  kitchen  table  or  dressers.     They  are  provided  with 
a  regulating  screw,  to  grind  fine  or  coarse,  as  may  be  desired.     They 

.ade  in  four  sizes,  and  cost  from  35.  to  os.  each. 
Wire  Dish  Corer.— This  is  an  article  belonging  strictly  to  the  larder, 
and  is  intended  for  covering  over  meat,  pastry,  etc.,  to  protect  it  from 
flies  and  dust.     It  is  a  most  necessary  addition  to  the  larder,  especially 
in  summer  time.     These  covers  are  made  in   sizes  ranging  from   10 
jo  inches  in  length,  and  sold  at  prices  rising  from  is,  jd.  to 
!.,   according  to  sue.     Round  plate  covers  in  the  same  material 
are  supplied  at  from  is.  3d.    Wire  meat  safes,  japanned,  16  in..  : 
in.  and  ^4  in.  square,  are  supplied  at  from  2OS,     \\ 
h  panels  of  perforated  zinc,  24  in.,  27  in.  and 
square,    are   s«>Kl  at  from  95.    6d. 

Knife  Tray,  Plato  Basket  and  Plate  Carrier.— A  knife  tray  should  be 

^  dose  at  hand  all  knives  in 

:i  tin,  sold  at  2s.  od.  to  3$.  od.,  according  to  sire,  is 
very  easily  washed,  and  will  always  appear  clean  and  in  nice  order, 
if  properly  looked  after.  Japanned  trays,  equal  I  and  scr- 

:nay    be  had,   single,  with    round  corners,  at  from    2S.    to 
.vith    square    corners,    from     2S,  6d.  to   8s.      V 
:<>r  spoons,  forks,  etc.,  lined  with  baize,  are  suppl 

four  sizes  from  2S.  6d.  to  $s.  each  ;   and   wicker   plate  carriers  for 
unlined.  at    .  :ied  with  tin.  6s,      The    tin,    it 

japanned,  costs   ios.  6d.     A  asket  for  the  reception  oi 

been  used  and  removed  from  table,    with    loose    v 
and  lined  with  tin,  is  supplied  in  three  sizes  at  45.  to  6s.  6d. 
Baking  Dish.— Many  housewives  prefer  for  family  pies  and  puddings 
a  baking  dish  made  of  tin,  which  may  be  covered  with  a  wire  grating. 
so  that  it  may  be  used  for  baking  meat  and  potatoes,  the  latter  being 
i  in  the  dish  and  the  meat  on  the  wire  grating.   Seamless  baking- 
pans,  in  all  forms,  oblong,  square,  round  and    oval,  may  be  had  in 
sizes   ranging  from  4   to   ^o  inches,  at  prices  from    $d.  to 

ding  to  size. 

Tartlet  Pans.— The  trimmings  of  pastry  rolled  out,  laid  in  a  tartlet  pan. 
and  baked,  form  the  foundation  of  open  tarts.     The  pans  are  nv 

cs,  from  6  inches  to  12  inches  in  length,  with  plain  or  fluted 
edges,  at  prices  ranging  from  2d.   to  is.  6d.,  according  to  size  and 

Patty-pans,— These  are   made  of  tin,   and   used   for   cheese-cakes, 
little  tarts,  mince-pies,  etc.      Some  are  fluted  and  some   plain,   and 
are  manufactured  in  all  sizes  and  of  different  shapes,  bot 


70  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  round.  The  price  of  a  dozen  patty-pans,  in  tin,  ranges  from  2d. 
upwards,  according  to  size  and  shape. 

Raised  Pie  Mould. — The  moulds  in  which  raised  pies  are  made  open 
at  the  side,  with  loose  bottom  plates.  They  are  usually,  though 
not  necessarily,  oval  in  shape  ;  they  are  made  from  6  inches  to  1 1 
inches  in  length  ;  and  the  smallest  size  is  supplied  in  strong  tin  at  25. 
to  33. 

Border  Mould. — This  mould  measures  7  inches  in  length,  2^  inches 
in  height  ;  its  capacity  is  i^  pints,  and  its  price  in  copper,  lined  with 
pure  tin,  8s.  Very  effective  designs  may  now  be  obtained  in  strong 
tin  from  lod.  upwards. 

Coffee  and  Tea  Canisters,  etc. — Japanned  tin  is  the  metal  of  which 
canisters  for  tea  and  coffee  are  composed.  The  flavour  of  the  tea  and 
the  aroma  of  the  coffee  may  be  preserved  by  keeping  them  in  tin 
canisters.  The  prices  of  these  canisters,  to  hold  from  2  oz.  to  6  lb., 
range  from  6d.  to  33.,  according  to  size.  Among  other  boxes, 
made  in  tin  and  japanned,  for  the  reception  of  articles  of  daily  use  and 
consumption  may  be  named  SEASONING  BOXES,  at  35.,  35.  6d.  and 
43.  6d.,  according  to  size  ;  SPICE  BOXES  at  2S.,  2S.  6d.  and  33.,  accord- 
ing to  size  ;  SUGAR  BOXES,  square  in  shape,  with  division,  in  five  sizes 
without  drawer  to  receive  pounded  sugar  dropping  from  divisions 
through  perforated  bottom,  from  2S.  9d.  to  93.  6d.  ;  or  in  three  sizes  with 
drawers,  from  6s.  6d.  to  IDS.  Round  SUGAR  CANISTERS,  holding  from 
i  lb.  to  6  lb.,  are  sold  at  from  8d.  to  43.  6d.,  according  to  size  ;  and 
FLOUR  BINS,  bright  tin  inside  and  japanned  blue  with  black  hoops 
outside,  ranging  in  capacity  from  i  gallon  to  3  bushels,  are  supplied 
at  from  33.  6d.  to  28s.,  according  to  size. 

Hot-water  Dish. — In  cold  weather  such  joints  as  venison,  a  haunch, 
saddle  or  leg  of  mutton  should  always  be  served  on  a  hot-water  dish, 
as  they  are  so  liable  to  chill.  This  dish  is  arranged  with  a  double 
bottom  which  is  filled  with  very  hot  water  just  before  the  joint  is  sent 
to  table,  and  so  keeps  that  and  the  gravy  hot.  Although  an  article 
of  this  description  can  scarcely  be  ranked  as  a  kitchen  utensil,  still  the 
utility  of  it  is  obvious.  Hot-water  dishes  may  be  had,  made  entirely 
of  metal,  of  various  sizes  from  2 is.  upwards,  or  in  nickel,  electro-plated, 
at  higher  prices.  Hot- water  plates  range  in  price  from  is.  6d.  upwards. 

Gravy  Strainer. — One  of  these  is  absolutely  indispensable.  One  variety 
is  like  an  inverted  cone  with  the  pointed  end  cut  off,  having  a  handle 
attached  to  it,  and  a  plate  perforated  with  very  fine  holes,  or  piece  of 
wire  netting,  at  the  bottom,  below  which  is  a  rim  on  which  it  stands. 
It  is  made  in  three  sizes,  with  fine  or  coarse  bottom,  sold  at  is.  6d.,. 
is.  9d.  and  2S.  each,  according  to  size.  Another  kind  is  made  in  the 
form  of  a  cone  ;  but  this,  of  course,  will  not  stand  by  itself,  terminating; 
as  it  does  in  a  point.  It  is  made  in  three  sizes,  with  fine  or  coarse 
netting,  sold  at  lod.  to  2s.  6d.,  according  to  size. 

Egg  Poacher. — When  eggs  are  much  used  in  a  family,  an  egg  poacher 


THE    KITCHEN  71 

forms  a  desirable  addition  to  the  utensils  of  the  kitchen.  These  are 
made  in  different  forms,  the  ordinary  poacher  being  in  the  form  of  a 
circular  tin  plate,  with  three  or  four  depressions,  to  contain  the  eggs, 
and  with  an  upright  handle  rising  from  the  centre.  The  plate  is  sup- 
ported by  feet,  on  which  it  stands  when  lowered  into  the  saucepan. 
Poachers  for  three  eggs  are  sold  for  is.  4d.  ;  for  four  eggs  at  is.  i  id. 

Cask  Stand. — For  beer  it  is  desirable  to  have  a  stand  by  which  the  cask 
may  be  raised  or  lowered  without  shaking  its  contents.  The  lever 
cask  stand  will  be  found  most  useful  for  this  purpose.  This  stand  is, 
perhaps,  the  best  that  has  yet  been  produced,  its  action  being  very 
simple  and  easy  to  understand.  The  price  of  stand  for  a  9-gallon  cask 
is  6s.  ;  for  an  iS-gallon  cask,  8s. 

Beer  Tap. — The  best  kind  of  tap  for  home  use  is  the  brass  syphon  beer 
tap,  which  requires  no  vent-peg,  and  is  fitted  with  a  protector 
in  front,  to  receive  the  blows  of  the  mallet  in  tapping  a  cask.  The 
protector  may  be  unscrewed  to  clean  the  syphon  tube  when  it  is  in  the 
cask.  Another  improvement  consists  in  the  self-acting  tube  being 
brought  down  close  to  the  mouth  of  the  jug,  glass  or  vessel  into  which 
the  beer  is  drawn.  Directions  for  keeping  the  tap  in  order  are  given 
to  the  purchaser.  This  tap  is  sold  at  35.  6d. 

The  Corrugated  Kettle. — The  chief  feature  of  t  'e  is  the  fluted 

form  of  the  bottom,  which  not  only  adds  considerably  to  its  str< 
but  increases  the  heating  surface  about  20  per  cent.,  thereby  causing 
the  water  to  boil  in  a  very  much  shorter  time  than  in  an  ordinary 
flat-bottomed  kettle.  The  peculiar  form  of  this  kettle,  both  as  regards 
the  fluted  bottom  and  dome  top,  renders  it  especially  suitable  for  use 
on  gas  or  petroleum  stoves  or  spirit  lamps.  ia  made  in 

polished  steel  in  nine  sizes,  holding  from  I  to  12  pints,  and  sold  at 
prices  ranging  from  is.  6d.  to  45.  3d.,  according  to  size.  It  is  also 
made  in  polished  copper  or  brass  in  the  four  smaller  sizes,  from  i  to 
3  pints,  sold  at  from  55.  to  75.  6d.  with  ordinary  handle  In  the  five 
larger  sizes,  holding  from  4 to  i  j  pints,  it  is  made  in  polished  copper  with 
turned  handle  and  spout,  and  sold  at  prices  ranging  from  8s.  to  i8s. 

Coffee-pot. — When  well  made,  coffee,  perhaps,  is  the  most   delicious 

and  n -freshing  of  all  the  infusions  that  are  made  for  household  use,  but 

the  goodness  of  coffee  very  often  depends  on  the  construction  of  the 

m  which  it  is  made,  and  it  is  most  desirable  to  use  one  in  which, 

omatic  oil  of  the  berry  developed  in  the  process  of  roasting  is  not 

driven  off  by  boiling,  on  the  one  hand,  which  invariably  spoils  coffee, 

and  not  made  sufficiently  perceptible  by  the  endeavour  to  make  it  at 

too  low  a  temperature,  which  is  too  often  the  case.      In  one  of  the 

t    Coffee   Cans   either   contingency   is   happily  avoided   by  the 

peculiar    construction   of    this  coffee-pot,  in  which   the  coffee,  when 

making,  is  surrounded  by  a  jacket  of  boiling  water,  and  thus  kept  at 

such  a  temperature  that  the   valuable   principle  in  which  the  aroma 

-  n.  off,   but  gradually  and  continuously  brought  out,. 


72  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

thus  increasing  to  a  wonderful  extent  the  flavour  and  fragrance  of 
the  drink.  By  means  of  this  utensil  coffee  can  be  made  to  perfection 
in  so  short  a  time  as  two  minutes,  which  shows  how  easy  and  rapid 
the  process  is  when  performed  by  means  of  this  utensil.  They  are 
kept  in  various  sizes,  and  made  of  various  materials,  and  vary  in  price 
from  55.  6d.  upwards. 

Freezing  Machines. — Ice  is  now  so  much  used  at  English  tables 
that  it  has  become  a  necessary  of  household  economy,  and 
dessert  ices  follow  summer  dinners  as  a  matter  of  course.  Dessert 
ices  are,  by  modern  invention  and  ingenuity,  placed  within  the  reach 
of  most  housekeepers,  and  it  is  easy  to  make  ices  by  one  of  the 
patent  freezing  machines,  which  afford  a  quick,  economical  and 
most  simple  method  of  freezing.  Two  ices,  or  an  ice  and  an  ice 
pudding  can  be  made  at  the  same  time  by  these  machines.  The 
mixture  to  be  iced  is  placed  in  the  tubes  or  cylinders  ;  outside  these 
tubes  rough  ice  and  salt  are  placed,  the  ice  being  pounded,  and  the 
salt  and  a  little  water  added  ;  the  piston  is  then  worked  up  and 
down.  This  movement  produces  a  constant  change  and  agitation 
of  the  ice  and  salt,  which  is  compelled  to  pass-  round  and  round  the 
agitator.  Two  stirrers  are  attached  to  the  piston,  and  work  at  the 
same  time  with  it  ;  these  "  stirrers  "  go  up  and  down  inside  the  cylin- 
ders, and  stir  up  and  mix  the  cream  or  water  mixture  undergoing  the 
freezing  process.  This  agitation  of  the  cream,  etc.,  is  necessary  to 
prevent  the  future  ice  from  being  lumpy  and  snowy.  When  the 
freezing  is  complete  the  stirrers  are  taken  out  of  the  cylinders,  and  the 
ice  pressed  down  firmly  by  a  presser  ;  this  moulds  it  to  the  form  of 
the  cylinder.  It  is  set  by  keeping  it  still  in  the  machine  for  a  short 
time  longer,  still  working  the  piston  up  and  down  ;  it  is  then  turned 
out,  beautifully  iced  and  moulded.  The  same  ice  and  salt  which 
freezes  the  dessert  ices  will  afterwards  freeze  a  block  of  pure  water 
ice,  or  may  be  used  to  cool  wine. 

These  freezing  machines  are  made  in  oak,  and  are  supplied  in 
three  sizes,  Nos.  i,  2  and  3,  to  freeze  and  mould  i,  2  and  3  pints  re- 
spectively, at  £2  i  os.,  ^3  53.,  and  ^3  155.  These  are  to  be  used 
with  ice  and  salt  only. 

Refrigerators  are  very  necessary  in  a  household,  as  they  ensure  both 
comfort  and  economy,  and,  indeed,  promote  good  health  in  the  summer. 
They  consist  essentially  of  cupboards  or  chests,  lined  with  zinc,  and  kept 
cool  by  ice.  The  ice  receptacle,  however,  should  have  no  connexion 
with  the  storage  part,  as  the  food  should  be  kept  in  a  cold,  dry  atmo- 
sphere. A  properly-made  refrigerator  consists  of  a  wood  cupboard  or 
chest,  lined  inside  with  zinc,  and  having  a  tight  fitting  door  ;  between 
the  zinc  lining  and  wood  casing  there  should  be  a  layer  of  insulating 
material,  such  as  thick  felt  (the  cheapest),  or  better,  asbestos,  or  its 
artificial  substitute,  slag-wool.  This  insulating  layer  prevents  loss  by 
too  rapid  dissipation  of  the  cold  by  contact  with  the  hotter  outside 


KITCHEN  UTENSILS, 


Mayonnaise    Mixer,    Mincer,    Asparagus    Dibh.    Masher    and    Strainer,    Egg 
Boiler,  Table  Hot  Plate,  Hot  Water  Dish,  Gas  Grilling  Stove,  Cream  Freezer. 


KITCHEN    UTENSILS. 


10 


i.  Chafing  Dish  Pan.  2.  Chafin?  Dish  Stand  and  Lamp.  3.  Doubls  Boiler  of  Chafog 
Dish.  4.  Jelly  Mould.  5.  Meat  Slice.  6.  Whisk.  7.  Channj  Dish  complete.  8.  Colander. 
9.  Dutch  Oven.  10.  Spice  Box. 

10 


THE    KITCHEN  73 

air.  The  ice  chamber  should  also  be  lined  with  zinc,  and  be  placed 
at  the  top  or  back  of  the  chest,  a  waste  pipe  being  provided  for  draining 
away  the  water,  which  may  be  stored  in  another  zinc  receptacle  under 
the  chest,  and  used  as  an  ice  bath  for  bottles  of  liquors,  etc.  Ice 
quickly  melts  if  surrounded  by  water  or  air,  therefore  keep  the  ice  chest 
closed  and  well  drained.  If  you  have  a  piece  of  ice  but  no  proper 
receptacle  for  it,  you  may  keep  it  for  a  long  time  even  in  summer  if 
you  wrap  it  in  a  blanket  and  place  it  in  a  dark,  dry  place.  Unless 
you  are  quite  sure  of  the  purity  of  ice,  never  mix  it  with  food  or  bever- 
ages ;  cool  down  to  the  required  temperature  by  surrounding  the 
vessels  in  which  the  food  or  beverage  is  contained  with  a  mixture  of 
pounded  ice  and  salt.  An  ice  closet,  or  refrigerator,  should  not  bi 
in  a  kitchen  ;  place  it  in  the  larder,  at  all  events  well  away  from  the 
direct  sunlight  ;  choose  the  darkest  corner.  The  interior  should  be 
kept  scrupulously  clean. 

Filters.  —  Absolutely  pure  water  is  not  to  be  found  in  nature,  for 
even  rain  (natural  distillation,  resulting  from  condensation  following  on 
evaporation  of  sea,  lake,  river  and  soil  surface  water  by  the  sun- rays) 
absorbs  gases  and  dust  as  it  descends  through  the  various  atmospheric 
strata.  Lake,  river  and  spring  waters  contain  gases,  earthy  salts  and 
organic  matter.  The  salts  are  not  to  be  feared  unless  present  in  large 
quantities,  but  the  presence  of  organic  matter,  if  not  always  dangerous, 
should  give  rise  to  suspicion.  Organic  matter  in  water  is  usually  the 
result  of  decomposition,  and  whether  of  vegetable  or  animal  origin  is 
nearly  always  unwholesome;  but  too  often  such  organic  matter  may 
comprise  chemical  poisons  or  the  so-called  poison  secreting  specific, 
or  pathogenic,  microbes.  To  get  rid  of  superfluous  earthy  salts  (more 
especially  lime  and  magnesia)  and  organic  matter,  various  methods  of 
purification  are  adopted.  Water  supplied  to  towns  by  compani*. •>  or 
municipalities  is  usually  filtered  through  extensive  and  deep  beds  of 
sand  gravel  and  other  materials.  Sometimes  the  water  is  first  run  into 
tanks,  chemicals  added,  and  the  superabundant  lime  allowed  to  cl 
before  the  water  is  run  on  the  filters.  Domestic  filters  are  constructed 
on  much  the  same  principle,  the  water  being  made  to  pass  through 
layers  of  sand,  charcoal,  spongy  iron,  porous  earthenware  or  ]>aUi:t 
compositions.  Charcoal  and  iron  are  believed  to  have  a  chemical  as 
well  as  a  mechanical  influence,  as  they  absorb  oxygen  and  part  with 
it,  and  also  absorb  deleterious  gases.  The  varieties  and  styles  of  filters 
differ  so  widely  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  give  prices.  A  domestic 
filter  may  be  made  by  thoroughly  charring  the  inside  of  an  oaken  cask 
(this  is  best  done  by  burning  spirits  of  wine  in  it),  then  placing  curved 
porous  tiles  at  the  bottom,  covering  this  with  a  layer  of  carefully 
cleansed  gravel,  upon  the  top  of  which  should  be  a  finer  gravel, 
and  finally  sand  or  coarsely  ground  charcoal.  The  danger  of  all 
filters  is  that  they  soon  get  foul  if  constantly  used,  and  then 
water  passed  through  them  is  only  contaminated.  There  arc 


74  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENf 

tubes  composed  of  siliceous  infusorial  earths,  which  are  very 
compact,  but  allow  water  introduced  into  them  slowly  to  percolate. 
The  only  way  to  obtain  absolutely  pure  water  is  to  use  a  still,  in  which 
water  is  evaporated  by  heat,  and  the  steam  being  caught  and  con- 
densed by  cold  is  obtained  in  the  form  of  liquid  water.  But  this  water 
is  of  a  "  dead  "  character,  having  no  oxygen,  and  if  exposed  to  the  air 
quickly  absorbs  atmospheric  gases  and  dust.  For  practical  purposes, 
if  water  has  to  be  purified,  the  best  plan  is  to  boil  it.  This  not  only 
destroys  living  germs  and  their  spores,  but  splits  up  organic  matter 
and  causes  the  earthy  salts  to  be  deposited  in  the  form  of  slime  or 
"  fur."  The  kettle  has  the  advantage  of  being  available  both  for  home 
and  outdoor  use — for  instance  on  country  excursions,  when  very  often 
water  of  doubtful  character  is  alone  to  be  procured. 

Washing  and  Wringing  Machines. — In  large  establishments  where  there 
is  a  laundry  these  do  not  enter  into  "  The  Arrangement  and  Economy 
of  the  Kitchen,"  but  in  smaller  ones  they  often  of  necessity  form  part 
of  the  furniture.  The  price  of  a  small  one  is  from  203  to  903. 

Washing  machines  are  daily  becoming  more  general  in  private  families, 
and  needless  to  say  washing  at  home,  if  practicable,  is  a  great  economy. 

Fireproof  Earthenware  Cooking  Appliances  and  Casserole  Pots  are  benefits 
which  we  owe  to  Continental  chefs.  For  many  purposes  they  are  not  to  be 
surpassed.  They  are  light,  cleanly,  impart  no  flavour  to  the  most  delicate 
of  viands,  quick  in  use,  and  may,  for  the  most  part,  be  sent  up  to  table 
with  their  contents  direct  from  the  kitchener.  Among  other  purposes 
fireproof  earthenware  vessels  are  excellent  for  cooking  "  ceufs  sur  le 
plat,"  or  fried  eggs,  scrambled  eggs,  stewed  and  baked  tomatoes, 
joints  of  meat  "  au  daube,"  that  is,  stewed  with  rich  gravy  and  vege- 
tables. These  are  all  dishes  which  would  be  spoilt  in  colour  and 
flavour  if  iron  saucepans  were  used.  Moreover,  as  this  ware  is 
decidedly  ornamental,  they  only  require  to  be  taken  from  the  oven 
or  hot  plate,  placed  on  a  dish  and  sent  to  the  dining-room. 

Enamelled  Ware  is  now  much  used,  both  for  cooking  and  other  kitchen 
utensils.  As  a  rule  these  consist  of  rather  thin  sheets  of  steel,  or  iron, 
stamped  out  into  different  shapes,  and  then  coated  inside  and  out  with 
fireproof  enamel  ;  the  coat  used  for  the  outside  generally  being  blue, 
and  that  for  the  inside  white.  The  advantages  of  enamelled  ware  are 
that  it  is  clean,  acid-proof  and  does  not  injure  the  colour  or  flavour  of  any 
article  cooked  and  placed  within  it.  Vessels  of  this  ware  are  especially 
useful  for  making  sauces,  boiling  milk,  farinaceous  puddings  and  stew- 
ing fruit.  These  utensils  are  also  easily  cleaned.  But  it  is  necessary  to 
buy  good  quality  articles,  as  in  the  cheaper  classes  the  enamel  is  often 
thin,  inferior  and  contaminated  with  arsenic.  Inferior  enamel  is  apt  to 
chip,  and  this  is  dangerous,  as  the  particles  are  as  sharp  as  glass  and 
capable  of  causing  serious  digestive  troubles.  Moreover,  if  the  enamel 
is  chipped  or  badly  cracked,  all  the  advantages  of  enamelling  are 
neutralized,  as  the  foods  come  into  direct  contact  with  the  metal,  and 


THE    KITCHEN  75 

further  act  on  the  under  part  of  the  enamel.  This  ware  should  always 
be  properly  seasoned  before  use.  Fill  to  the  brim  with  boiling 
water,  add  a  good  allowance  of  soda  and  allow  to  get  cool,  then  wash 
thoroughly  in  very  hot  soap  suds.  Enamelled  metal  ware  should  never 
be  placed  in  the  oven  or  on  a  stove,  unless  it  contains  a  liquid  or  some 
fat,  otherwise  the  enamel  will  crack. 

Aluminium  is  a  metal  existing  largely  in  clay.  It  is  only  within 
recent  years  that  it  has  been  able  to  be  extracted  economically  and  in 
sufficient  quantities  for  commercial  purposes.  Its  chief  character- 
istics are  its  extreme  lightness,  its  resistance  to  the  action  of  most 
acids  and  atmospheric  influences,  and  the  ease  with  which  it  forms 
most  useful  alloys.  In  its  natural  condition  it  is  of  a  dullish  silver  hue. 
Aluminium  cooking  and  kitchen  utensils  are  now  either  stamped  out 
of  sheet  metal  or  moulded.  Their  extreme  lightness  makes  stewpans, 
frying-pans  and  bain-maries  of  this  metal  most  handy  in  the  kitchen, 
and  the  fact  that  the  juices  of  vegetables  and  fruits,  etc.,  do  not  act 
upon  it,  gives  aluminium  a  considerable  advantage  over  copper.  The 
metal  heats  quickly  and  retains  its  heat  for  a  long  time.  It  requires 
some  care  in  cleaning.  As  yet  aluminium  kitchen  ware  is  somcuh.it 
expensive,  but  when  its  merits  are  more  widely  recognized,  and  it  comes 
into  more  general  use,  prices  are  likely  to  fall. 

The  Chafing  Dish  is  a  very  ancient  utensil,  much  used  by  our  ancestors 
and  then  gradually  neglected.  But  it  has  come  into  fashion  again, 
largely  through  a  revival  of  its  use  in  America.  The  chafing  dish  is 
a  deep  metal  pan,  with  sloping  sides,  and  provided  with  a  domed 
cover,  which  fits  in  the  circular  rim  of  a  metal  tripod.  On  the  stand 
of  the  tripod  beneath  the  dish  a  spirit  lamp  is  placed.  In  some  in- 
stances the  dish  is  heated  by  electricity.  As  a  rule  these  articles  are 
highly  ornamental,  and  are  meant  to  be  used  on  the  table  or  sideboard  ; 
they  are  usually  brought  into  requisition  at  breakfast,  luncheon  and 
supper,  and  are  undoubtedly  most  serviceable  in  households  where 
only  a  few  servants  are  kept,  as  by  their  aid  dainty  little  dishes  such  as 
fried  or  scrambled  eggs,  omelettes,  stewed  kidneys,  broiled  tomatoes, 
"welch  rarebit  or  cheese  fondu,  and  similar  preparations  can  be  sj» 

red  at  the  early  morning  meal,  or  at  a  late  supper  "after  the 
theatre."    For  dwellers  in  flats  the  chafing  dish  is  almost  indispensable. 

Complete  List  of  Domestic  Utensils. — Here  we  must  bring  our  notices 
of  utensils  that  find  a  place  in  most  kitchens  to  a  close,  omitting 
many  articles  of  less  importance  not  likely  to  be  called  so  frequently 
into  use.  Everything  necessary  for  a  family,  whether  large  or  small, 
is  included  in  the  following  complete  specifications  of  domestic  utensils, 
which  will  show  at  a  glance  the  articles  required  for  the  kitchens  of 
families,  ranging  from  those  for  whom  a  small  cottage  affords  sufficient 
accommodation  to  those  who  have  an  income  large  enough  to  warrant 
the  occupation  of  a  mansion.  For  a  mansion,  whose  many  guests  are 
oming  and  going,  and  where  a  large  number  of  domestics  are  kept, 


76 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


a  great  number  of  articles  will  be  required,  and  these  are  set  forth  in 
specification  No.  I.  In  specification  No.  II  everything  is  included  that 
is  necessary  for  culinary  operations  in  a  family  whose  head  is  possessed 
of  ample  means.  Specification  No.  Ill  includes  those  articles  which 
should  be  found  in  comparatively  small  houses  ;  whilst  in  specification 
No.  IV  such  things  only  are  enumerated  as  are  indispensable  to  a  family 
possessed  of  a  small  income,  and  moving  in  a  comparatively  humble 
sphere  of  life. 

Specifications  and  Estimates  for  Outfit  of  Kitchens. — The  following  specifi- 
cations and  estimates,  it  may  be  said,  have  been  carefully  prepared. 
They  are  exclusive  of  tinnery  and  brushes.  Each  specification  is 
complete  in  itself,  and  any  of  the  articles  mentioned  may  be  had  singly 
at  the  same  prices. 


SPECIFICATION  No.  I. 

This  Specification  is  complete  and  suitable  for  any  Mansion. 


£  s.  d. 
8  Copper  Stewpans,  assorted 

sizes  .  .  .  .  .  5  12  6 

i  Copper  Stock  Pot,  10  galls., 

with  tap  and  Drainer     .      5   18     6 

1  Copper  Bain  marie,  1 1  vessels  7     7     o 

2  Copper   Saute   or   Cutlet 

Pans 176 

i  Copper  Braizing  Pan  with 

Fire  Cover,  18  in.  .  .  440 
i  Copper  Egg  Bowl  .  .  .0186 
i  Copper  Sugar  Boiler  .  .  015  o 

1  Copper  Preserving  Pan       .      i   16     o 

2  Copper  Jelly  Moulds  i     i     6 
2  Copper  Charlotte    Moulds, 

2  pt.,  35.  6d.,  2j,  43.  6d.  o  8  o 
12  Copper  Dariol  Moulds,  2  in.  o  9  6 
12  Copper  Fancy  Entroe  Cups, 

assorted o  12  o 

2  Copper  Conical  Gravy 

Strainers  .      .      .      .      .     o  17     6 

1  Copper  Soup  Ladle       ..046 

2  Copper  D  Slices     .      .      .     o  10     o 
2  Copper  Dish-up  Spoons      .0100 

1  Copper    Dish  -  up,    perfor- 

ated     ......046 

2  Copper  Omelette  Pans       .     o  15     9 
2  Copper  Baking  Plates  ..126 
i  Oval  Wrought  iron  Fat  Pan 

and  Drainer    .      .      .      .     o  19     6 
i  Oblong  Wrought -steel  Drip- 
ping Pan  with  Well,  on 
iron  legs          .      .  •    .      .286 
Basting  Ladle  for  ditto      .     o  10     6 
Large  Wood  Meat  Screens 

with  Hot  Closet  .  .  912  6 
Steel  Cutlet  Bat  .  .  .046 
Cast -steel  Meat  Saw  ..046 
Cast-steel  Cutlet  Saw  ..036 


£    s.    d. 

48   18     3 


3     6 


Carried  forward    ;  ,.    . ....    £48  18     3 


Brought  forward  . 
i  Cast -steel  Cleaver    .      .  o 

i  Set  Skewers,  gd., is.,  is.  6d      o 
i  Case  Larding  Needles   .  o 

i  Daubing  Needle       .      .  o 

3  Cooks'  Knives    ...  o 

1  Cooks'  Bone  Knife  .      .  o 

2  Root  Knives,  is.    .  o 
2  Steel   Dish-up   Forks  with 

Guard       ....  o 

Salamander  and  Stand  o 

Pair  Steak  Tongs     .      .  o 

Toasting  Fork          .      .  o 

Fluted  Bar  Gridiron     .  o 

Hanging  Gridiron    .  036 

Oval  Iron  Fry  Pan     .  026 

6  Tinned  Iron  Saucepans          o  13     6 
2  Ditto,  with  steamer,  6  qt. 

55.  ;  8  qt.,  6s.  6d.       .  o  n     6 

i  Best     Wrought-iron     Tea 

Kettle o  10     6 

i  Copper-Bottom    Tin-Body 

Range  Kettle       .      .      .026 

1  6  gal.  Oval  Wrought-steel 

Boiling  Pot  .      .      .     i   10    o 

2  Strong  Wire  Fry  Baskets, 

2S.  6d.,  35.  6d.  .  .  .060 
i  Strong  Tin  Fish  Kettle, 

Copper  Bottom  .  o  10  6 

i  Strong  Tin  Turbot  Kettle, 

Copper  Bottom  ..150 
Marble  Slab  for  Pastry  .  o  10  6 
Box  Pastry  Cutters,  each 

Round  and  Fluted  .  .050 
Box  Assorted  Fancy  Cutters  020 
Paste  J  agger  .  .  .  .010 
Box  Vegetable  Cutters .  .036 
Salad  Basket  (Wire)  ..036 

Carried  forward     r      «      -£5^  10     § 


THE    KITCHEN 
SPECIFICATION  No.  I.  (continued). 


77 


Brought  forward 
i    Patent  Bread  Grater    . 
•lied    Iron    Spoons 
i    Block  Tin  Souj.  Ladle 
i    Hour  and  Sugar  Dredge    . 
_'   IVpprr  Boxes,  4d.  each 
i    1'otato  Masher 

•l>le     Scoops, 
wood    handles 

l-'unnels  .... 
i  Raised  Pie  Mould  .  .  . 
i  !>../< -ii  Tartlet te  Tins  .  . 
3  Dozen  Round  Pattypans, 

fluted 

i  Bread  Rasp 

1  1 'alette  Knife     .... 

2  \Vire   Egg   Whisks,  strong, 

}d.,  is.  gd.    . 

i    Refrigerator        .... 
i   Pewter  Ice  Pot,  with  Cover 

i    Pail  f..r  ditto,  O.ik  .       .       . 

1  Spatula          

2  Pewter  lor  Pudding  Moulds 

. 

IJ     Pewter    I'  '•!    'lllds 

i    Marl.le  M-.i-t.tr.  14  in.    .       . 
i    Lignum    Vita- 

d  • 

'u.ility  "       Knife 
hint-  on   high   stand, 
dr. m   4    kniv. 
\.  i 


5«   io     6  Brought  forward   . 

026         i  Spice  Box,  Block  Tin    . 
056         i  Seasoning  Box 

019  i  Mincing  Machine,  Vitrified 

026  Enamel 

008         i  Set  Registered  Scales  and 
023  Weights,  to  weigh  28  Ib. 

12  Tinned  Meat  Hooks     .      . 
036         2  Corkscrews         .... 
O     o  io          2  Tin  Openers 
056  3   C,alvani/ed  Pails,  is.  (,d.     . 

0  i     6         i  Coal  Hod,  Zinc  lined    . 

i   Kitchen  Fender 
oio          I   Set  Kitchen  Fire    Iron- 

020  i  Tin  Coffee  Pot,  35.  6d..   i 
026  Tin  Tea  Pot,  35.  6d.     . 

I  Coffee  Mill.  Steel  .  .  . 
030  3  Japanned  Travs.  Strong  . 
550  i  Lemon  Squee/er 

1  i     o         i  Jelly  Bag  and  Stand     . 

1  Set  Tea,  Coffee,  an-! 

Canisters         .... 
4    Han  -t      .       .       . 

2  Brass  Wire  M<  \es    . 

Hour  Kit 

Rolling  Pin.  hard  w.*-d 

.ve  Brushes          .      . 
-     ... 

Hair  Broom  and  handle    . 
•r    Yard    Broom    and 

.lie 

Ling  Brushes         .      . 


076 
046 

o  15     o 
046 


3  17    6 


£  s.  d. 

74     4  6 

o  10  6 

o     4  o 


I  I 


Cam 


•£74     4     6 


8     9 


SPECIFICATION   No.  II. 


>   Good  Class  Houses. 


-sorted 


£    5.    d. 

5  io    o 

with  tap  and  dr,(  \     5     o 

;>er  Saute  Pan    .  o   IO     6 

per  Sugar  Boiler      .  o  io     6 

per  Egg  Bowl    .  o  15     o 

mg  Pan  140 

•er  Jelly  Moulds      .  o  17     6 

r      1 >ariol 

Moulds 096 

Cups          060 

i   Onlv     Copper     Char 

.     2    pt.  .        .        .036 

I    Onlv  < 

r 080 


£    s.    d. 

Brought  forward  .      .      .   14    o    3 
'76 

i  Copper  D  Slice      .      .      .050 
i  Oval     Wrought-iron     Fat 

.     o  15     o 
i  Wrought-iron         Dripping 

with  Well   and 

Iron  legs      .  ..226 

Ladle  for  ditto  .     o     8     6 
i  Wooden   Meat  Screen,  cir- 
cular   corners    and    Hot 

Closet 476 

Bottle      Jack      and 
Crane  Coiuplet- 
I   Cutlet  Bat     .... 
>a\v       .... 


.rd     .      .      .£14     6     3 


i   Cutlet  Saw          . 
Carried  forward 


o  14 
»  4 
o  4 
o  3 


'3     3 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


£ 

s. 

d. 

£ 

s. 

d. 

Brought  forward  . 

23 

13 

3 

Brought  forward  . 

30 

7 

0 

.  I 

Set  Skewers,  each  gd.    is. 

o 

X 

9 

24 

Patty  Pans  fluted    .      .      . 

0 

0 

8 

•    X 

Case  Larding  Needles     '  .  , 

0 

2 

6 

i 

Bread  Rasp        .... 

o 

2 

o 

.    X 

Daubing  Needle 

o 

I 

6 

i 

Strong   Wire   Egg   Whisk 

o 

I 

6 

a 

Cooks'  Knives    . 

b 

5 

6 

i 

Refrigerator       .... 

4 

4 

o 

x 

Cooks'  Bone  Knife  . 

o 

5 

6 

i 

Pewter  Freezing  Pot 

0 

17 

6 

a 

Root  Knives,  is.      ... 

o 

a 

0 

i 

Oak  Pail  for  ditto    .      .      . 

o 

6 

6 

Dish-up  Forks  with  Guard 

o 

4 

6 

i 

Spatula         

o 

.   X 

Salamander  and  Stand 

o 

7 

6 

i 

Pewter  Ice  Pudding  Mould 

o 

10 

6 

X 

Pair  Steak  Tongs     .      .      . 

o 

2 

6 

6 

Pewter  Ice  Dessert  Moulds 

o 

9 

o 

X 

Toast  Fork         .... 

o 

:'•! 

o 

i 

Marble  Mortar 

o 

IO 

6 

X 

Fluted  Bar  Gridiron 

o 

.3 

6 

i 

Lignum  Vitae  Pestle     . 

0 

3 

6 

X 

Strong  Wire  Hanging  Grid- 

i 

Set  Best  Scales  and  Weights 

iron                 •      •      •      • 

o 

6 

14  Ib 

o 

18 

6 

X 

Oval  Iron  Fry  Pan     .      . 

o 

2 

3 

i 

Knife    Machine    on    High 

4 

Iron  Saucepans;  assorted  . 

o 

9 

0 

Stand,  3  knives  and  carver  2 

15 

6 

I 

2  gall,  ditto,  with  steamer 

o 

6 

0 

i 

Mincing  Machine 

0 

15 

0 

X 

Cast-iron  Oval  Boiling  Pot 

0 

7 

6 

3 

Hair  Sieves         .... 

o 

7 

6 

I 

Oval     Wrought-iron     Tea 

i 

Brass  Wire  Sieve     .      .      . 

o 

3 

6 

Kettle       

0 

8 

6 

12 

Meat  Hooks       .... 

0 

i 

0 

X 

Copper-bottom,     Tin-body 

I 

Jelly  Bag  and  Stand     .      . 

o 

8 

6 

Well  Kettle    .... 

0 

5 

6 

2 

Corkscrews  

o 

i 

o 

X 

Strong  Tin  Colander     . 

o 

3s 

9 

I 

Coffee  Mill,  Steel     .      .      . 

0 

12 

6 

X 

Strong    Tin    Fish    Kettle, 

I 

Kitchen  Fender 

0 

9 

6 

Copper  Bottom    . 

o 

••!* 

6 

I 

Set  Kitchen  Irons 

0 

4 

6 

X 

Strong    Fish    Kettle,    Tin 

I 

Zinc-lined  Coal  Hod      .      . 

o 

4 

6 

Bottom    

'o 

4 

ii 

I 

Tin  Coffee  Pot          .      .      . 

0 

3 

6 

X 

Box  Paste  Cutters,  Round 

o 

2 

0 

I 

Tin  Tea  Pot       .... 

0 

3 

6 

X. 

Box  Paste  Cutters,  Fluted 

0 

2 

0 

2 

J  apanned  Trays,  Strong     . 

0 

5 

o 

X 

Box  Fancy  Cutters     .    ,tj 

o 

2 

0 

I 

Lemon  Squeezer 

o 

i 

3 

•  I 

X 

Paste  J  agger      .      .      .    ^, 
Japanned  Spice  Box   . 

b, 

p 

I 
4 

0 

6 

2 
2 

Tin  Openers       .... 
Galvanized  Pails 

0 

o 

i 
3 

o 
o 

X 

Seasoning  Box 

0 

3 

ii 

I 

Set  Tea,  Coffee,  and  Sugar 

X 

Bread  Grater     .... 

o 

2 

6 

Canisters         .... 

0 

17 

6 

12 

Assorted  Iron  Spoons   . 

o 

6 

_ 

Flour  Kit 

s- 

4" 

6 

X 

Box  Vegetable  Cutters 

o 

2 

9 

I 

Rolling  Pin,  hardwood 

o 

i 

6 

X 

Strong  Tin  Soup  Ladle 

a 

I 

6 

I 

Paste  Board,  hardwood 

0 

4 

6 

I 

Fish  Slice      

o 

I 

6 

I 

Set  Stove  Brushes 

0 

2 

ii 

I 

Egg  Slice      

_ 

_ 

Q 

J 

Set  Shoe  Brushes    .      .      . 

Q 

e 

6 

3 

Vegetable  Scoops    . 

o 

2 

9 

I 

Hair  Broom  and  Handle    . 

0 

j 

3 

ii 

X 

each     Flour      and      Sugar 

I 

Bass  or  Yard  Broom  and 

Dredge,  is.  3d.   . 

0 

2 

6 

Handle      

o 

2 

6 

a 

Tin  Funnels        .... 

o 

O 

8 

3 

Scrubbing  Brushes 

0 

3 

9 

12 

Tartlette  Pans    .... 

o 

I 

6 

i 

Meat  Chopper    .... 

0 

4 

6 

Carried  forward 


•£30     7 


Total 


£43     6     3 


SPECIFICATION  No.  III. 

Suitable  for  Middle-Class  Houses  j 


Saucepans, 


£   s.    d. 


0160 


4  Sanitary  Steel 

assorted    ..... 

1  Sanitary  Steel  Stock  Pot, 

3  galls o  18 

2  Tinned  Iron  Saucepans      .     o     4 
i  10  pt.  ditto,  with  steamer       o     4 


Carried  forward 


•£2     2     9 


Brought  forward  ..22 
i  Oval  Boiling  Pot,  3  galls,  o  4 
i  Preserving  Pan,  Copper  .  o  16 
i  Sanitary  Steel  Saute  Pan  .  o  3 
i  Sanitary  Steel  Omelette 

Pan  o     2 


Carried  forward 
1 


.      .£396 


KITCHEN  UTENSILS. 


rtPans.     2.  Patty  Pans.     3.   Raised  Pie  Mould.     4.   Paste  J agger.  5.  Fancy 

lo  Cutters  and  Case.     6.  Vegetable  Scoops.     7.   Paste  Bo.ml  and  Pin.  8.   Plain 

Charlotte    Pudding    Mould.     9.  Gridiron.     10.   Mangle     or     Wringer,     n.  Tin-lined 
;    Knife  Basket.     12.  Coffee  Canister.     13.  Bread  Grater. 

D*« 


HOUSEHOLD    REQUISITES. 


Composition  for  Cleaning  and  Polishing,  Ammonia  Soap,  Kleenall,  Extract  of  Soap,  Metal 
Polish,  Berlin  Black,  Walnut  Varnish  Stain,  Metal  Polish,  Oik  Varnish  Stain,  Brunswick  Black, 
Best  White  Paint,  Safety  Matches,  Soluble  Soft  Soap,  Non-Mercurial  Plate  Powder,  Black 
Meltonian  Cream,  Gishurstine,  Floor  Polish,  Ronuk,  Blacking,  Black  Lead,  Wax  Polish,  Blue, 
Superior  Blacking,  Grate  Polish,  Nugget  Black  Polish,  Knife  Polish,  Nuggat  Brown  Polish, 
Spiritine. 
12 


THE    KITCHEN  79 

SPECIFICATION   No.  III.  (continued). 


i 

s. 

d. 

Brought  forward  .      .      . 

3 

9 

6 

I 

Brass    Bottle    Jack     and 

i 

Crane         .... 

0 

s 

6 

i 

I 

Jack  Screen 

0 

12 

6 

i 

I 

Block  Tin  Fish   Kettle 

0 

5 

ii 

i 

I 

Mincing  Machine     . 

0 

9 

6 

i 

I 

Knife  Machine,  to  clean 

knives  and  c  arvers   . 

I 

5 

6 

I 

2 

Cooks'  Knives    . 

0 

4 

6 

I 

I 

Dish-up  Fork  with  Guard 

0 

i 

9 

I 

Game  Oven 

o 

3 

6 

i 

I 

I 

Fluted  Hanging  Gridiron 
Strong  Wire  Hanging  Grid 

0 

2 

6 

6 
6 

iron 

o 

2 

o 

i 

I 

Set  Best  Scales  and  Weights 

i 

14  Ib 

,  1 

5 

* 

I 

Meat  Saw     

0 

2 

ii 

! 

I 

Meat  Chopper    .... 

0 

2 

6 

I 

I 

Iron  Frying  Pan 

o 

2 

0 

2 

I 

Iron  Kettle        .... 

o 

4 

6 

j 

Tin  Kettle,  Copper  Bottom 

o 

3 

3 

I 

I 

Double  Oven  Pan 

0 

4 

6 

I 

2 

Cake  Tins     

0 

I 

0 

I 

2 

Tin  Moulds         .... 

a 

2 

9 

I 

IJ 

Tin  Dariol  Moulds 

o 

I 

6 

I 

I 

Box    Plain      and     Fluted 

2 

Pastry  Cutters     .      .      . 

o 

j 

o 

I 

Colander       

0 

2 

6 

3 

M 

Patty  Pans,  plain 

0 

0 

6 

3 

Fish  Slice      . 

.  1 

Q 

i 

Egg  Slice 

,  , 

Q 

Set  Skewers.  6d..  <>J.    .      . 

(. 

3 

Wire  Toast  F-  >rk      .      .      . 

1  > 

6 

Vegetable  Scoop      .      .      . 

'  > 

0 

Vegetable  Cutter     .      .      . 

0 

0 

Root  Knife         .... 

0 

D 

9 

Sugar  Dredge     .... 

0 

I 

3 

Flour  Dredge      .... 

0 

0 

9 

Tin  Funnel         .... 

0 

0 

6 

3 

t 

Gravy    Strainers,    flat  and 

conical       

0 

a 

4 

I  *.  d. 
9  17  5 
o  i  o 
006 
009 

010 

033 

O   2   O 

o  3  ii 
026 


2   O 
2   6 

I  II 

I   2 

4  9 


Brought  forward 
Wire  Egg  Whisk 
Tin  Opener 
Corkscrew 
Lemon  Squeezer 
Composition    Mortar    and 

Pestle 

Wire  Fry  Basket      .      .      . 
Fish  Frying  Pan  with  Wire 

Drainer 

Spice  Box 

Iron  Spoons,  assorted  .  .  o 
Wood  Spoons  .  o 

Hair  Sieve o 

Tinned  Wire  Sieve  .  .  o 
Baking  Plate,  oblong  .  o 
Dust  Pan  .  .  .  .  o 

Flour  Bin,  Japanned  .  o 
Each  Tea,  Coffee  and  S> 

Canisters  .  .  .  .090 
Potato  Masher  .  .  .010 
Gallon  Pail  .  .  .  .  o  I  6 
Gallon  Oval  Wash-up  Pan  030 
Paste  Board  .  .  .  .026 
Rolling  Pin  .  .  .  .009 
Wire  Dish  Covers,  is.  6d., 

2 036 

Enamelled  Pie  Dishes         .026 
I.naiuelled  Pudding  Basins     020 
lied    Wat. 

8  pint 026 

Kitchen  Fender       .      .      .066 
Set  Kitchen  Fire  Irons       -033 

Coal  Hod 029 

e  Brushes         ..029 
Set  Shoe  Brushes     .      .      .046 
Hair  Broom  and  Handle    .030 
Bass  or  Yard  Broom        .020 
3  Scrubbing  Brushes        ..030 


Carried  forward 


•£9  17     5 


Total 


SPECIFICATION  No.  IV. 

Suitable  for  very  small  Houses. 


£  s.   d. 

3  Tinned  Iron  Saucepans  .060 
Tinned  ditto,  with  steamer  036 
Tinned  Oval  Boiling  Pot, 

3  Rails 049 

Enamelled  Steel  Saucepans  020 
Iron  Kettle  .  .  .  .036 
Tin  Kettle  .  .  .  .019 
Frying  Pan,  iron  .  .  .019 
Baking  Pan  ....013 


Carried  forward 


£146 


i 

2 

i  Mould 

12  Patty  Pans.  . 
3  Cutters 

i  Fish  Kettle  . 

i  Tin  Colander  . 

3  Iron  Spoons  . 

Carried  forward 


Broueht  forward      .      .     i 
•lire  Pudding  Tin     .      o 
Cake  Tins o 


s.  d. 
4  6 
o  8 
o 


15 


So 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


SPECIFICATION   No.  IV.  (continued). 


Brought  forward 
Root  Knife       .... 
Flour  Dredge 
Pepper  Box      .... 
Cooks'  Knives 

£ 
i" 
o 
o 
o 

1  O 

s. 

15 
o 

't 
o' 

d. 

I 
6 

0 

4 
6 

I 
i 
i 

Brought  forward 
Enamelled  Jug,  3  pint     . 
Enamelled  Preserving  Pan 
Patent  Steamer  Cooker,  4 
vessels     

£ 
3 
o 

0 

o 

s. 
4 
o 
5 

lo 

d. 

9k 
ii 
6 

Hanging  Wire  Gridiron    . 
Fish  Slice          .... 

O1 

o 
0 

j) 
o 

6' 

6 
9 

Q 

i 
i 

Pestle  and  Mortar 
Lemon  Squeezer 

o 
o 

2 

o 

ii 
9 

Set  Skewers      .... 
Vegetable  Scoop 
Baking  Sheet          .      .      . 
Cooks'  Fork     .... 
Fry  Basket       .... 

0 

a 
o 

o 

o 

I 
I 

T 

6 

10 

6 

0 

6 

i 
i 
i 
i 

Coffee  Pot         .... 
Tea  Pot       

Gallon  Pail       .... 
Galvanized  Oval  Washing- 
up  Pan 

0 
0 
0 

I 
I 
I 

6 
6 

0 

Gravy  Strainer 
Hair  Sieve        .      .';   .    •'>  ' 
Wire  Sieve        .... 

o 
o 

0 

o 

I 
I 
I 

o 

0 

3 

i 
I 

Spring     Balance     Family 
Scales,  20  Ib.      ... 
Knife  Machine,  "  Servants 

0 

4 

ii 

Corkscrew         .... 
Spice  Box         .    '  .'"    s     .  : 
Tin  Opener       .      .      .      .  ' 
Tea,  Coffee,    and    Sugar 
Canister        .... 
Flour  Bin,  Japanned        . 
Potato  Masher 
2  Enamelled  Pie  Dishes 
3  Enamelled  Pudding  Basin  5 

o 
o 

0 
0 
0 
O  : 

0 

I 
p 

4 

3 

0 

I 
I 

6 
6 

4 

6 

2 

6~ 

i 

i 
2 

Mincing  Machine  . 
Coffee  Mill        .... 
Set  Stove  Brushes 
Set  Boot  Brushes 
Hair  Broom  and  Handle 
Bass  or  Yard  Broom  and 
Handle         .... 
Scrubbing  Brushes 

0 
0 

o 

0 

o 

0 

o 

4 
3 

i 

3 

2 

I 
2 

8 
6 

6 
6 

6 

0 

Carried  forward     . 


Total 


.      .£699 


Turnery  and  Brushes,  etc. — To  render  the  information  given  here  as 
complete  as  possible,  lists  are  appended  :  (i)  of  the  various  articles 
usually  comprehended  under  the  general  term  "  Turnery,"  with 
brushes  ;  and  (2)  of  numerous  sundries  of  which  it  is  always  desirable 
to  know  the  price.  As  it  is  impossible  to  give  prices  where  many  sizts 
of  the  same  article  are  on  sale,  the  minimum  only  has  been  stated, 
preceded  by  the  word  "  from." 


TURNERY  (Best  London  Make)  and  BRUSHES. 


s.  d. 

o  6 

o  9 

3  I 

2  6 

4  6 


Butter  Prints       .     .       from 

Butter  Prints,  in  Case  „ 

Knife  Trays,  Mahogany       „ 

Knife  Trays,  Oak      . 

Knife  Trays,  Wicker 

Knife  Trays,  Japan- 
ned, Single  .  ,,  020 

Knife  Trays,  Japan- 
ned, Double.  .  ,,  056 

Plate  Baskets,  Wicker          „        026 

Meat  Safes,  Wooden, 

Zinc  Panels  .  .  „  o  17  6 

Meat  Safes,  J  apanned 

Wire  ...  „  100 

Jelly  Bags      ...  „        030 

Jelly  Bags,  Wood 

Stand  for  .  .  each  046 

Carried  forward  .      .      .     £3     7     o 


Brought  forward  . 
Plate  Racks         .      .         from 
Housemaid's  Box,  Deal        „ 
Decanter  Drainers    .      .     „ 

Linen  Press , 

Washing  Trays    .      .      .      „ 
Clothes-horse  ,, 

Wicker  Plate  Carriers     .      ,, 
Cask  Stand,  Patent  .      .      „ 

Beer  Taps 

Stands  for  Trays — 

Unpolished       .... 

Polished  .... 

Best  Boxwood  Churns        from 
Butter  Knives     .      .      .      „• 

Butter  Hands 

Salt  Box , 


s.   d. 

7  o 

8  o 


o     8 


o     9 

0  13 

1  5 
o     3 
o     i 


Carried  forward  .      .      .£980 


HOUSEHOLD    UTENSILS. 


i.     Bread  Cutter.      a.     Coffee  Roaster.      3.     Carpet  Sweeper. 
5.     Knife  Cleaner.         6.     Spice  Box. 


Wringer  and  Mangle. 


THE  KITCHEN 
TURNERY  and    BRUSHES   (cwiinucd). 


8l 


£ 

1 

d. 

£ 

s. 

t!. 

Brought  forward 

9 

8 

o 

Bp>ut:ht  forward  . 

II 

I  » 

a 

Butlers'  Aprons       .         from 

0 

5 

6 

Hand  Brooms    . 

from 

0 

3 

0 

Chamois  Leather                     , 

0 

I 

0 

Carpet  Whisks   .     .      . 

,, 

0 

2 

0 

Flour  Tubs     . 

o 

4 

0 

Hand  Brushes    .      . 

,, 

0 

I 

9 

Flour  Tubs,  Barrel  Shape      , 
Oak  Tubs,  Round 

o 

0 

2 

2 

6 
6 

Heuth  Brushes 
Banister  Brushes,  Single 

N 

o 

0 

2 

I 

9 
o 

Oak  Tubs,  Oval     . 

0 

4 

0 

Do.    Double        .      . 

,, 

0 

3 

9 

Elm  Bowls         .      .               , 

o 

I 

6 

Banister  Stair  Carpet   . 

,, 

0 

I 

9 

House  Pails,  Wood 

o 

4 

0 

Shoe  Brushes,  per  set  of  3 

,, 

o 

4 

6 

Chopping  Board      .              „ 

0 

6 

Boxes  for  Stove  Brushes 

each 

o 

I 

9 

Door  Scrapers,  with 

Stove  Brushes 

from 

0 

I 

'. 

Brushes             .      . 

0 

i  : 

ii 

Plate  Brushes          .      . 

.. 

o 

I 

0 

Curtain  or  Bed  Brooms        ,, 

0 

2 

o 

Oil  Brushes        .      .      . 

e.u'h 

o 

0 

6 

Telescope  ditto        .      .       „ 

0 

5 

3 

Dish  Brushes 

from 

o 

2 

6 

Carried  forward     . 

£" 

M 

8 

:1 

• 

Ci3 

2 

5 

SUNDRIES. 

£ 

f. 

d. 

£ 

1. 

,/. 

Bone  Spoons        .      .         from 

o 

0 

2 

Brought  forward  . 

5 

4 

- 

Bottle  Ba>kets     .       . 

0 

1 

0 

H«»U>. 

from 

o 

6 

Blaek   Lead.   Bi-st      .      per   \b. 

0 

0 

8 

Knife  Boards 

ff 

0 

I 

; 

Bellows,  Kitchen       .          from 

0 

I 

9 

Knit.-  Polish  .      .      . 

M 

o 

0 

Bell(  i\vs,  fancv  pattern 

0 

4 

0 

•'.ats      . 

0 

I 

0 

Bread  Platters     .      . 

0 

1 

0 

Leather,  Cham< 

o 

I 

Bread  Knives 

o 

2 

6 

Lemon  Squeezer 

o 

I 

i 

Butter  Dishes,  Carved 

0 

I 

o 

Lemon  Carats 

o 

0 

i 

Beetle  Traps 

o 

I 

0 

Lawn  Sieves  . 

o 

I 

9 

Butlers'  Aprons,  Green 

Library  Brushes  .      . 

0 

I 

" 

Baize       ... 

o 

5 

0 

Marrow  Scoops,  I  \  <T  v 

0 

2 

0 

Butlers'  Apron,  Red 

Mallets      .... 

o 

q 

,, 

Leather           .       .               „ 

o 

o 

Mops  

o 

I 

t  1 

Buff  Leather   Ki 

Mops  for  Jugs      .      . 

0 

0 

3 

bi>anU      ...             ,, 

0 

4 

3 

Mouse-Traps 

M 

0 

0 

. 

o 

I 

6 

Nai!  Brushes 

0 

0 

6 

P.ottlr  Bni-hex     .       . 

0 

0 

5 

Napkin  Kings,  Bone 

Crumb  Bni-hes    .       .              , 

o 

2 

o 

ry 

M 

0 

I 

0 

Cindei   5                 ... 

0 

I 

9 

Paste  Brushes 

H 

0 

I 

Cucumber  Slicers 

0 

3 

0 

Paste  Boards       .     . 

o 

2 

Closet  Brushes     . 

0 

2 

6 

Polishing  Paste  .      .    per  b...\ 

0 

o 

'. 

Dinner  Mat<.  set 

0 

8 

9 

Putty  Powder     .      .  per 

pkt. 

o 

0 

- 

Drinking  Horns  .      .            „ 

o 

I 

9 

Rolling  Pins  .      .      . 

from 

0 

0 

Drum  Sieves        .      .            „ 

I 

I 

o 

Sieves  (Hair,  Wire,  etc.) 

o 

0 

7 

Door  Mats      ... 

Dusting  Brushes.      .            „ 

o 

0 

9 

I 

6 
o 

Sponges    .... 
Soap  Boxes    . 

- 

o 

0 

Q 
0 

, 

1  liners    

o 

0 

6 

Sink  Brushes 

__ 

o 

0 

6 

Finery  Powder    .       .  per  pkt. 

0 

0 

6 

Scrubbing  d«  >. 

0 

0 

6 

Fine  Brushes        .      .          Iran 

0 

I 

6 

o 

!•  ' 

Furniture  do.       .      .            „ 

0 

I 

i 

Salad  > 

0 

O 

6 

Feather  Dusters  .      .           „ 

0 

I 

9 

Sweeps'  Brushes  . 

o 

I  • 

7 

I  )...  with  jointed  pole 

0 

2 

8 

Towel  Rollers      .      . 

0 

I 

o 

Glaze  Brushes      .      . 

0 

I 

6 

Turks'    Heads    with 

Housemaids'  Gloves. 

o 

" 

8 

jointed  Poles     . 

0 

3 

-, 

Flannels   .      .  per  vd. 

0 

b 

8 

Urn  Powder         .      .    . 

0 

i 

<  • 

ushes         .      .         from 

o 

I 

3 

Vegetable  Pressers    . 

from 

0 

0 

i 

Hair  Sieves    ... 

o 

0 

10 

Velvet  Brushes    .      . 

o 

I 

(, 

Hair   Sieves,   double 

Wooden  Spoons  . 

tf 

o 

0 

1 

bottoms        .      .             „ 

o 

2 

0 

. 

Total     .      . 

( 

£7 

•J 

Q 

Carried  forward    . 

£5 

\ 

7 

MARKETING 


CHAPTER     V 

A  Guide  for  Choosing  and  Buying  Provisions  and  Home 
Requisites.  With  full  Information  about  the  Prices 
and  Seasons  of  Fish,  Meat,  Poultry,  Game,  Dairy 
Produce,  Vegetables,  Fruit,  Tinned  Meats, 
Groceries,  Wines,  Spirits,  etc. 

That  these  lists  may  be  of  real  service,  neither  time  nor  care  has  been 
spared  to  render  them  as  complete  and  reliable  as  possible.  They  show 
not  only  the  prices  and  seasons  of  all  provisions,  but  when  they  can  be 
bought  at  their  cheapest  and  best,  points  to  be  studied  by  all  house- 
hold managers,  particularly  those  who  have  to  provide  for  large 
families. 

With  regard  to  fish,  meat,  poultry,  game,  dairy  produce,  vegetables 
and  fruit,  the  prices  have  been  obtained  from  the  principal  provincial 
towns  as  well  as  from  different  parts  of  London,  so  as  to  arrive  at  the 
average  cost. 

In  the  case  of  tinned  provisions,  groceries,  etc.,  they  are  quoted  from 
various  sources,  and  at  the  present  reduced  scale  of  charges  generally 
adopted  by  tradesmen  and  stores  throughout  the  kingdom. 

MEAT 

Except  in  the  case  of  early  lamb,  whicn  is  always  expensive  (unless 
the  excellent  New  Zealand  lamb  is  used),  the  price  of  meat  varies  but 
little  with  the  season.  Lamb  and  veal  are  in  full  season  during  spring 
and  summer,  and  are  generally  preferred  in  the  hot  weather  to  beef 
and  mutton,  which  are  not  then  considered  so  good. 

82 


!   > 


MARKETING  GUIDE:  BEER 


i.  Round.  2.  Aitchbone.  3.  Brisket.  4-  Tongue.  5-  I-eg.  6.  Ribs.  7-  Sirloin. 
8.  Buttock:  E.  Topside  or  Buttock;  F.  Silverside  or  Round.  9.  Hind-quarter: 
A.  Leg,  B.  Buttock,  c.  Thick  Flank,  D.  Aitchbone. 


MARKETING 


BEEF. 


PART. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 
ENGLISH.      AMERICAN. 

Aitchbone      . 

All  the  year 

During  Winter 

i 
6^.perlb.    ftd.  per  Ib. 

Baron 

M 

,, 

gd.         ,, 

Brisket     . 

M 

,, 

$^d.        ,, 

4i«.      •• 

Buttock   . 

, 

,, 

iod.        M      iod.     „ 

Clod    .... 

,, 

4d.           ,, 

Flank        .      .      . 

,, 

$\d. 

4d. 

Hock         .      .      . 

it 

$d.          ..         — 

Silver  side 

M 

gd.          ,,     8d. 

Neck         .      .      . 

,, 

$d.          ,.      3^-      M 

Ribs          .      .      . 

,, 

8\d.        ,,     7^d.  to  $\d.  ,, 

Rump  (in  steaks) 

, 

is.    id.   >, 

lid.      ,, 

Shin    .... 

, 

3%d.        » 

-~- 

Round 

, 

R\d.        ,, 

jd.  to  8^.,, 

Sirloin 

( 

gd. 

Bd. 

Cheek       .      .      . 

( 

is.  3d.  ea. 

— 

Heart 

> 

is.  6d.    „ 

— 

Kidney     . 

, 

iod.  per  Ib. 

gd.  per  Ib. 

Tail     .'      .      .      . 

t 

is.  gd.  ea. 

— 

Tongue    . 

' 

25.  6d.   „ 

25.  6d.  ea. 

Australian  and  Foreign  Meat — Although  it  is  difficult  to  equal,  and 
impossible  to  surpass,  the  best  British  grown  beef  and  mutton,  we  have 
as  a  nation  immensely  benefited  by  the  enormous  and  ever-increasing 
imports  of  meat  from  America,  Australia  and  New  Zealand.  The 
large  supplies  of  beef  which  reach  us  from  the  river  La  Plata  and  else- 
where have  undoubtedly  kept  down  prices,  so  that  meat  is  no  longer  a 
luxury  except  among  the  poor.  Much  of  the  beef  from  South  and 
North  America  reaches  us  alive,  but  it  is  not  of  this  phase  of  the  trade 
that  we  need  speak.  The  great  development  arose  when  it  was  found 
that  cattle  and  sheep  could  be  slaughtered  and  dressed  on  the  other  side 
of  the  ocean,  then  packed  close  together  in  freezing  chambers  on  board 
ship,  and  so  imported  here.  Actual  freezing,  many  contend,  injures 
the  quality  of  meat,  and  certainly  if  the  meat  is  heated  carelessly  on 
arrival  it  quickly  deteriorates.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  however,  most 
meat  is  now  "  chilled,"  that  is  packed  in  chambers  in  which  the  air  is 
made  cold,  but  is  not  suffered  to  reach  freezing  point.  Moreover,  it  is 
packed  in  loose-woven  cloth  wrappers,  and  on  arrival  in  England  is 
removed  to  cold  storage  chambers,  and  gradually  exposed  to  higher 
temperature  before  it  is  put  on  the  market.  When  carefully  treated, 
mutton  and  lamb  are  none  the  worse  for  the  long  chilly  voyage.  Beef, 
however,  is  apt  to  lose  somewhat  of  its  natural  firmness  and  elasticity  ; 
it  therefore  requires  to  be  carefully  stored,  and,  when  cooked,  should 
be  subjected  for  some  minutes  to  very  high  temperature,  which  should 
be  subsequently  lowered,  otherwise  the  albuminous  constitutents  will 
soon  drain  out  in  the  gravy,  leaving  the  mass  of  meat  stringy,  ta^t 


84 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


and  not  very  nourishing.  Imported  killed  meat  cannot  safely  be  kept 
long  except  in  winter,  unless  hung  in  a  refrigerator.  The  housewife 
who  takes  special  pride  in  her  roast  beef,  had  better  buy  English  joints, 
using  the  imported  meat  for  stews  and  "  made  dishes." 


VEAL. 


PART. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST. 

AVERAGE 

PRICE. 

Breast      .      . 
Cutlet       .      . 

Feb.  to  Nov. 

In  Summer. 

Sd.  per 

IS.  2d. 

Ib. 

Fillet        .      . 

IS. 

Knuckle 

6d. 

Loin    . 

S%d. 

Shoulder 

S$d. 

Head        .      . 

55.  each. 

Heart        .      . 

t 

Qd.  each. 

Sweetbread    . 

• 

from  is. 

each. 

MUTTON. 


PART. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 
ENGLISH.     NEW  ZEAL'D. 

Breast      .     \n'*f.1 

All  the  year 

Sept.  to  April. 

4d.  per  Ib. 

2\d.  per  Ib. 

Haunch   . 

>t 

lt 

lod. 

— 

Leg     .... 

tt 

tt 

9U. 

6±d. 

Loin   .... 

, 

tt 

gU. 

SU. 

Neck  (best  end)  . 

i 

„ 

9d. 

s&. 

Neck  (Scrag  end) 

, 

,, 

6d. 

4d. 

Saddle      .      .      . 

( 

tt 

lod. 

6d. 

Shoulder        .-.,>•  -;*li 

t 

ij 

Sd. 

6d. 

Head        f  .-»  {VJ1f. 

t 

>t 

6d.  each. 

— 

Heart     "        %     .  ' 

, 

,, 

3^.  to  ^d.ea,. 

— 

Kidney    .      »      . 

, 

,, 

$\d.  each. 

id.  each. 

Chops      '.'    i'-"V>: 

ri±^9'fl 

" 

is.  per  Ib. 

Sd.  per  Ib. 

LAMB. 


PART. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST. 

AVERAG 

ENGLISH. 

E  PRICE. 
NEW  ZEAL'D. 

Breast 

Mar.  to  Sept. 

May  to  July. 

yd.  per  Ib. 

4d.  per  Ib. 

Fore-quarter 

,, 

,, 

9d. 

7d. 

Hind-quarter 

,, 

,, 

nd. 

8|rf. 

Leg     .      . 

tl 

tt 

is. 

9\d. 

Loin   .... 

t> 

tt 

lid. 

7\d. 

Neck  (best  end). 

>t 

,, 

lod. 

6d. 

Neck  (Scrag  end) 

tl 

,, 

Sd. 

S^ 

Shoulder        .      . 

It 

ipd. 

Z\d. 

Fry  (about)   .      . 

" 

" 

Sd.  to  is  ,, 

— 

MARKETING 
PORK. 


PART. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Hellv         .      .      . 

Sept.  to  April 

Nov.  to  March 

Sd.  per  Ib. 

Hand        .      .      . 

l 

7\d.      , 

Fore-loin 

Sd. 

Hind-loin 

9*.       , 

.... 

, 

SW.      , 

Spare  ribs 

• 

Sd. 

FISH. 

In  purchasing  Fish  it  should  be  remembered  that  it  is  generally 
best  when  in  full  season,  and  the  following  list  will  be  found  useful 
in  ascertaining  when  it  is  best  and  cheapest.  To  give  a  satisfac- 
tory table  of  the  prices  of  fish  is  a  difficult  and  almost  impossible  task. 
Many  circumstances  conspire  to  make  the  variations  in  price  greater 
than  in  the  case  of  any  other  food  commodity.  The  fact  that  lish  is 
a  most  perishable  article  of  food  and  is  usually  caught  while  travelling 
in  shoals,  results  in  alternate  scarcity  and  over-supply  of  a  particular 
kind  of  fish,  whilst  the  question  whether  the  purchaser  resides  near  or 
far  away  from  a  seaside  or  big  distributing  town,  affects  the  situation. 
All  we  have  been  able  to  do  is  to  record  fluctuations  in  prices  « 
period  of  years,  from  which  the  housewife  must  form  her  own  judgment. 
In  conclusion,  we  would  say  that  in  no  branch  of  marketing  is  personal 
attention  better  repaid,  both  in  quality  and  economy,  than  in  the 
buying  of  fish.  The  lady  who  markets  herself  will  select  the  lish  that 
«>n  the  day  <»f  lu  r  \  isit  is  plentiful,  consequently  cheapest  and  often  ! 


NAMI 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST  &  CHEAPEST. 

Avi  KA..I    PRICE. 

Bloaters    .       .       . 

Sept.  to  April      . 

Sept.  to  Feb. 

to  is.  (><l.  doz. 

Brill 

•Ml  the  year 

\u('    to  *\i)i*il 

(x/  to  is   VHT  It* 

Cod     .... 

Nov.  to  March     . 

Feb.  to  March     . 

-./.  per  Ib. 

Crabs  .... 

April  to  October 

Summer  . 

3<f.  to  35.  each. 

Kels      .... 

June  to  March    . 

to  Nov.      . 

6d.  to  is.  per  IK 

Haddocks 

August  to  Feb.  . 

Winter     . 

3</.  to  15.  3</.  each. 

Halibut     . 

All  the  year  . 

Nov.  to  June 

4d.  to  lod.  per  Ib. 

Herri  iH-.s    . 

Mav  to  January 

June  to  Sept. 

6d.  to  15.  6d.  doz. 

Lobsters    . 

A  ll't  he  year  .      '. 

Summer 

(xl.  to  35.  each. 

M.u  kerel 

Mullet  (red 

N  earl  vail  the  year 
All  the  year  ."      . 

April  to  July 
April   to  October 

3rf.  to  Sd.  c 

to  is.  2iL  j>er  Ib. 

Ovs1rl> 

Sept.  to  April      . 

Winter     . 

to  IS.  per  doz. 

Plai«-          .       .       . 

All  the  year. 

Mav  to  Nov. 

4d.  toSd.  per  Ib. 

Prawns 

Mav  to  Dec. 

Mav  to  Nov. 

15.  to  25.  per  pint. 

Salmon 

Feb.  to  Sept. 

Spring  .N:  Summer 

lod.  to  35.  per  Ib. 

Shrimps    . 

All  the  year    . 

April  to  Nov. 

3<f.  to  t<tl.  per  pint. 

Smelts       .      .       . 

<  Htober  tO 

\\  inter     . 

15.  to  25.  6d.  per  box 

86 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 
FISH  (continued). 


NAME  OF  FISH. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST&  CHEAPEST. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Soles    . 

All  the  year    . 

April  to  July 

15  to  25  per  Ib 

Sprats 
Trout 
Turbot      . 
Whitebait 
Whiting    . 

Nov.  to  March     . 
Feb.  to  Sept.  .      . 
All  the  year   . 
Jan.  to  Sept.  .      . 
All  the  year   . 

Nov.  and  Dec.    . 
April  to  July 
Spring  &  Summer 
Feb.  to  May 
Spring  &  Summer 

id.  to  $d.  per  Ib. 
Sd.  to  25.  per  Ib. 
6d.  to  15.  2d.  per  Ib. 
15.  to  25.  per  qt 
2d  to  6d.  each. 

POULTRY. 

The  cost  of  poultry  varies  considerably,  being  affected  both  by  the 
season  of  the  year  and  the  district  in  which  it  is  purchased.  It  is  well 
to  remember  that  poultry  almost  invariably  rises  in  price  at  Christmas, 
and  also  tends  to  be  expensive  when  no  game  is  on  the  market.  These 
considerations  borne  in  mind,  the  table  below  will  give  a  reliable 
average  of  prices. 


POULTRY. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST  &  CHEAPEST. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Chickens  . 

Feb.  to  October 

July  to  October 

25.  to  35.  6d.  each. 

Ducklings 

Feb.  to  August    . 

May  to  July  . 

25.  6d.  to  35.  6d.  ea. 

Ducks       .      .      . 

August  to  Feb.    . 

Sept.  and  Oct.    . 

35.  to  45.  each. 

Fowls 

All  the  year 

June  to  October 

25.  6d.  to  35.  6d.  each. 

Geese        .      .'•  v 

Sept.  to  Feb. 

Oct.  and  Nov 

65.  to  105.  each. 

Green  Geese  . 

May  to  August    . 

June        .      . 

65.  to  105.  each. 

Guinea  Fowl  . 

Feb.  to  August    . 

Summer        ,'    .-. 

35.  to  45.  each. 

Pigeons    . 

August  to  April 

Winter     .      *.      . 

gd  to  15.  each. 

,,     (Bordeaux) 

All  the  year 

Winter     .      .      . 

15.  tO  15.  4d. 

Rabbits    .      .      . 

All  the  year 

October  to  Feb. 

6d.  to  Sd.  per  Ib. 

(Ostend) 

All  the  year 

October  to  Feb. 

jd.  and  8d.  per  Ib. 

Turkeys    . 

Oct.  to  March 

Nov.  to  January 

105  to  £i  each. 

Wheat'ears     .   .  . 

Sept.  to  March    . 

Sept.  and  Oct.    . 

15.  each. 

GAME. 

Game  varies  very  much  in  price,  being  generally  very  expensive  on 
the  first  day  or  two  of  the  season,  whilst  on  the  other  hand,  any  one 
watching  the  market  may  sometimes  buy  it  more  cheaply  than  ordinary 
poultry  at  any  subsequent  period  of  the  season. 

In  this  variable  climate  no  hard  and  fast  rule  can  be  laid  down  for 
the  keeping  of  Game  before  it  is  cooked.  In  all  cases  it  requires  hang- 
ing ;  but  while  in  winter  it  is  safe  to  buy  birds  that  have  been  shot 
some  time,  in  damp  or  warm  weather  no  such  risk  should  be  run, 


MARKETING                                        87 

GAME  (continued).                            _ 

GAME. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST  &  CHEAPEST.  1    AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Blackcock       .      . 
Ducks  (wild) 
Grouse 
Hares 
Partridges 
Pheasants 
Plovers 
Ptarmigan 
Quail 

Aug.  to  Nov. 
Oct.  to  Sept. 
August  to   Nov. 
Sept.  to  March     . 
Sept.  to  Feb. 
Oct.  to  Feb. 
Oct.  to  Feb. 
Sept.  to  April 
Sept  to  Feb. 

Sept.  and  Oct.     . 
Nov.  and  Dec.    . 
September     . 
October   .      .      . 
Oct.  and  Nov.     . 
Winter     .      .      . 
Winter     .      .      . 
September     . 
Sept.  and  Oct.     . 
Oct.  and  Nov.      . 
Wrinter     .      .      . 
S  ept.  and  Oct.     . 
Oct.  and  Nov.     . 
Oct  and  Nov. 

25.  6d.  to  35.  6d.  b'e. 
2s.  to  35.  brace. 
35.  6d.  to  55.  brace. 
35.  6d.  to  55.  each. 
35.  to  55.  brace. 
65.  to  105.  brace. 
15.  to  15.  6d.  each. 
15.  to  15.  6d.  each. 
15.  to  15.  6d.  each 
25.  6d.  to  35.  brace. 
15.  to  15.  6d.  each. 
15.  to  25.  per  Ib. 
15.  to  15.  6d.  each. 
35.  6d.  to  55.  brace. 

Snipes 
Teal     .... 
Venison     . 
Widgeon   . 
Woodcock 

Oct  to  Feb.    . 
Oct.  to  Feb. 
Sept.  to  Jan. 
Oct.  to  Feb.  .      . 
Oct.  to  Feb.  .      . 

VEGETABLES     AND     FRUIT. 

Vegetables  and  fruits  vary  greatly  in  price  according  to  the  abundance 
or  scarcity  of  the  supplies.  Our  table  gives  the  average  prices  which 
would  have  to  be  paid  at  the  various  seasons  of  an  average  year. 

VEGETABLES. 


NAME. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST  &  CHEAPEST. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Artichokes 

Jan.  to  April 

February 

$d.  to  6d.  each. 

Jerusalem. 

Oct.  to  March   . 

December     . 

id.  to  2d.  per  Ib. 

Asparagus 

Feb.  to  July 

April  and  May  . 

25.  6d.  to  55.  per  100 

Beans  (French)   . 

May  to  November. 

Summer  . 

3d.  to  15.  per  Ib. 

(Broad)     . 

July  and  Aug.  . 

August    . 

6d.  to  od.  per  peck. 

(Runners). 

July  to  Oct..      . 

Aug.  and  Sept.. 

2d.  to  4d.  per  Ib. 

Beetroot    . 

All  the  year  . 

Autumn 

id.  to  3d.  each. 

Broccoli    . 

•f 

Autumn 

2d.  to  6d.  each. 

Sprouts. 

Nov.  to  May. 

April        .      .      . 

id.  to  4d.  per  Ib. 

Brussels 

Sept.  to  March. 

Oct.  and  Nov.    . 

2d.  to  4d.  per  Ib. 

Cabbages 

All  the  year  . 

Spring  and  Smr. 

id.  to  2d.  each. 

Carrots 

All  the  year  .      . 

Early  Smr&  Atm 

4d.  to  6d.  bunch. 

Cauliflowers    . 

All  the  year  .      . 

Summer  . 

2d.  to  6d.  each. 

Celery        .      .      . 

Sept.   to  March. 

December 

id.  to  4d.  per  hd. 

Horseradish    . 

All  the  year  . 

Winter    .      .      . 

id.  to  2d.  per  stick 

Leeks        .      .      . 

Oct.  and  Nov.   . 

3d.  to  6d.  bundle. 

Lettuce 

M 

Summer  . 

id.  to  4d.  each. 

Onions 

Summer  and  Atm. 

id.  to  2d.  per  Ib. 

Parsnips    . 

Oct.  to  April     . 

Feb.  and  March  . 

id.  to  2d.  per  Ib. 

Peas     .... 

June  to  Sept.     . 

July  and  Aug.    . 

4d.  to  25.  per  pck. 

Potatoes    . 

All  the  year 

Autumn 

Id.  to  id.  per  Ib. 

New 

March  to  Aug.    . 

June  and  July    . 

id.  to  Sd.  per  Ib. 

Radishes   . 

April  to  Nov.     . 

June  to  Aug. 

id.  to  2d.  per  bch. 

Seakale 

Nov.  to  May 

Feb.  and  March  . 

id.  to  25.  6d.  bskt. 

Savoys 

Nov.  to  March    . 

Dec.  and  Jan.    . 

id.  to  4d.  each. 

Spinach 

All  the  year 

Summer 

2d.  to  4d.  per  Ib. 

Tomatoes 

Sept.   and  Oct.. 

2d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

Vegetable  Marru  - 

July  to  Oct. 

September    . 

id.  to  6d.  each. 

"Vatercress 

Ml  the  year  . 

Spring  and  Smr. 

id.   per  bunch. 

88 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


FRUIT. 


NAME. 

IN  SEASON. 

BEST  &  CHEAPEST. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Apples 

All  the  year   . 

Oct.   to  Dec.      . 

2d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

Apricots    . 

June  to  Sept.    . 

August    . 

is.6d.  to  3s.6d.do. 

Bullaces    . 

Autumn 

October 

2d.  to  3^.  per  Ib. 

Cherries     . 

June  to  Aug. 

July         .      .      . 

4d.  to  Sd.  per  Ib. 

Currants    . 

July   to   Sept.    . 

August    . 

$d.  to  Sd.  per  Ib. 

Damsons   . 

Sept.  and  Oct.    . 

October  .      .      . 

id.  to  ^d.  per  Ib. 

Fififs 

2s.  to  35.  per  doz. 

Gooseberries  . 

July  to  Sept. 

August    . 

4d.  to  Sd.  per  qt. 

(Green) 

May  to  July. 

June 

2d.  to  6d.  per  qt. 

Grapes  (Foreign). 

All  the  year   .      . 

Autumn  . 

4d.  to  is.  per  Ib. 

„  (Hothouse) 

Sept.   to  Nov.    . 

October  .      .      . 

is.   and  upwards. 

Greengages 

Aug.  and  Sept.  . 

August     . 

3d.  to  Sd.  per  Ib. 

Medlars 

Oct.  to  Jan.  .      . 

Oct.  and  Nov.    . 

4d.  to  Sd.  per  Ib. 

Melons 

June   to  Nov.    . 

October 

gd.  to  55.  each. 

Nectarines 

Sept.   and  Oct.. 

October         .      . 

2s.  to  6s.  per  doz. 

Oranges     . 

All  the  year   . 

Winter     .      .      . 

From  ^d.  per  doz. 

Peaches     . 

Sept.  and  Oct.    . 

October         .      . 

45.  to  8s.  per  doz. 

Pears      ''V 

Oct.  to  March   . 

Oct.  and  Nov.    . 

id.  to  6d.  each. 

Plums        .     "    "•-."" 

Aug.  to  Oct.  . 

Sept.  and  Oct.    . 

2d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

Quinces     .     vs*^ 

Sept.  and  Oct.    . 

October  . 

2s.  to  35.  per  doz. 

Rhubarb  . 

Jan.  to  May  . 

March  and  April 

4d.  to  Sd.  bundle. 

Strawberries 

June  to  Sept.    . 

July         .      .      . 

4d.  to  is.  per  Ib. 

Dried  Vegetables  and  Fruits. — We  have  long  known  such  dried  fruits 
as  raisins  and  currants,  prunes,  dates  and  figs,  and  pippins.  These 
useful  pudding  and  dessert  fruits  are  now  more  abundant  than 
ever,  and  as  a  rule  prices  are  moderate.  Within  recent  years  other 
fruits  have  been  added  to  the  list,  and  we  now  have  dried  apple 
rings,  apricots,  etc.  These  apple  rings  and  apricots  reach  us  chiefly 
from  America  and  Australia,  where  they  are  dried  in  large  quantities 
in  specially  constructed  ovens.  They  are  used  for  pies  and  tarts,  or  may 
be  served  stewed.  Before  cooking,  place  the  required  quantity  of  dried 
fruit  in  a  colander,  and  allow  tepid  water  to  run  over  them  in  order  to  re- 
move dust.  Then  place  in  a  bowl  and  cover  with  water  and  allow  to  soak. 
When  soft,  place  in  an  enamelled  pan  and  stew  gently,  adding  more  water 
if  desired.  If  intended  for  a  pie,  stew  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  then 
place  in  piedish,  add  sugar,  place  crust  on,  and  bake.  If  to  be  used 
as  a  compote,  only  add  the  sugar  a  few  minutes  before  removing  from 
the  fire.  If  sugar  is  added  too  soon,  it  is  apt  to  turn  to  caramel  and 
harden  the  fruit. 

Recently  vegetables  in  great  variety  have  been  treated  by  the 
desiccating  process,  that  is,  cut  in  pieces,  and  exposed  to  a  more  or 
less  quick  heat,  to  remove  the  water.  The  vegetables  are  afterwards 
packed  loosely  or  compressed.  They  retain  their  colour  and  flavour, 
and  only  require  soaking  before  being  cooked.  These  dried  vegetables 
are  chiefly  to  be  recommended  for  use  on  board  ship,  for  travellers ,  or 
for  the  store  cupboards  of  housewives.  Unquestionably  fresh  vege- 
tables are  to  be  preferred,  whenever  obtainable. 


SHEEP. 


i.  Welsh  Mountain  Ram.          2.  Hampshire  Ram. 


MARKETING 


89 


DAIRY  PRODUCE,  HAM,  BACON,  ETC. 

Dairy  produce  varies  somewhat  in  price  in  accordance  with  locality, 
but  the  differences  are  not  so  great  of  late  years,  the  increased  railway 
facilities  having  brought  about  a  greater  uniformity  of  price. 

DAIRY  PRODUCE. 


ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Butter  — 

Cheese  (contd.)  — 

Fresh   .... 

is.  to  is.  4</.  per  Ib. 

Gruyere 

. 

from  icw/:  per  Ib. 

English,  Normandy 

Stilton 

.     „ 

is.  to  is.  6d.  per  Ib. 

or  Brittany 

is.  per  Ib. 

Eggs- 

Salt      .      . 

lod.  to  is.  2d.  Ib. 

Hens' 

»   \ 

8d.  to  as.  per  do/. 

Margarine   . 

dd.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

Ducks' 

»,    ,'• 

is.  to  2$. 

Cheese  — 

Geese 

35.  to  45.         „ 

American 

6d.  to  M.  per  Ib. 

Guinea  Fowls' 

IS.    to    2S.             j»/ 

Cheddar 

jod.  per  Ib. 

Plovers' 

3S.    tO    5S-             ,Wr 

Cheshire 

g{d.  to  is.  per  Ib. 

Turkeys' 

, 

3s.  to  45.         „ 

Cream 

i  3</.  to  is.  each. 

Milk     . 

4d.  per  qt. 

Dutch 

7d.  to  ad.  per  Ib. 

„    Separated 

2<*.         „ 

Gorgonzola 

from  gd.  per  Ib. 

Cream  . 

• 

is.  to  35.  per  pint. 

BACON,  HAM,  ETC. 

The  cheaper  parts  of  bacon  vary  from  $d.  to  f)d.  per  Ib..  but  by 
reason  of  the  quantity  of  bone  contained  in  them  they  are  not  in  reality 
more  economical  than  the  best. 


ARTH  i  i  . 

AVERAGE   1 

ARTH  i  i  . 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Baron  (best  part). 
Ham  — 
English 

AiiHTic.m 

!•></.  to  is.  per  Ib. 

Si/,   t.)  IS. 

7ld.  ti).,i</.     .. 

I  'am  (contd.)— 
Canadian      .     » 

.      .     . 
Pickled  Pork 
-:t>s    . 

7d  to  orf.  per  Ib. 

7c/.  to  io</.        „ 
Ki/. 
S,/.  to  is.         ^  ,  • 

PROVISIONS  AND  HOUSEHOLD  REQUISITES. 

For  groceries,  tinned  provisions,  jams,  biscuits  and  other  household 

sites,   the  prices  quoted   will  be  found  a  fair  average  of  those 

charged  by  the  principal  provision  dealers  and  grocers  in  London  and 

hief  provincial  towns. 

Tinned  meats,  soups,  fish,  poultry,  fruit  and  vegetables  now  occupy 
an  important  place  in  our  food  supply,  being  available  at  any  time, 
and   handy   substitutes   when    fresh   provisions  are  difficult   to   pro- 
cure.     In    the  respective  chapters   will   be  found    recipes  giving  full 
tions  for  their  use. 


9o 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


GROCERY. 


ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Fruit  (continued)  — 

Almonds  —  J  ordan 

is.  to  2s.  6d.  per  Ib. 

Greengages   . 

is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

Valencia 

is.  to  2s.  6d.  per  Ib. 

Chinois 

is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

Baking  powder 

4\d.  per  tin. 

Crystallized  — 

Beef     Essence  — 

Cherries  . 

is.  3d.  per  Ib. 

(Brand's)       .      . 

is.  3d.  per  tin. 

Pears        .      .      . 

is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

(Mason's)       .      . 

g\d.  per  bot. 

Angelica    . 

is.  id.  per  Ib. 

(Liebig's)       .      . 

2S.  3d.  per  J  Ib. 

Figs    .... 

is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

Beef  Tea  in  skins   . 

5s.  to  6s.  per  Ib. 

Flour—  Best  Whites 

from  i  id.  7  Ib.  bag. 

Blancmange  Pwdr. 

6d.  per  box. 

Self-raising    . 

is.  lod.  12  Ib.  bag. 

Capers   .... 

5d.  per  £  Ib.  bottle. 

Whole  Meal 

i  id.  7  Ib.  bag. 

Candied  peel  — 

Gelatine     .      .     .. 

3|d.  per  pkt. 

Lemon 

4\d.  per  Ib. 

Ginger  —    .      ;  .  ; 

8d.  per  Ib. 

Orange          .      . 

5d.  per  Ib. 

Ground    . 

8d.  per  Ib. 

Citron 

7d.  per  Ib. 

Crystallized  . 

is.  id.  per  Ib. 

Mixed            .      . 

6d.  per  Ib. 

Preserved 

5d.  per  Ib.  in  jar. 

Chicory 

4d.  per  Ib. 

Golden  syrup. 

is.  per  4  Ib.  tin. 

Chocolate          .      . 

lod.  per  Ib. 

Herbs  .... 

5d.  per  bot. 

Best     do       .      . 

nd.  per  tin. 

Isinglass    .     y  •'•••« 

5d.  per  pkt. 

Milk  paste    . 

i  id.  per  tin. 

Mustard    .      <;    * 

is.  4d.  i  Ib.  tin. 

Cocoa     .... 

2S.  6d.  per  Ib. 

Prunes 

4d.  per  Ib. 

Essence   . 

from  is.  6d.  per  Ib. 

Pudding  powder  . 

6d.  per  pkt. 

Nibs         .      .      . 

is.  3d.  per  Ib. 

Raisins  — 

Coco3.tin.cL          *      • 

is.  7  id.  per  \  Ib.  tin. 

Valencia        .      . 

5d.  per  Ib. 

Coffee- 

Sultanas        .     . 

6d.  per  Ib! 

Whole,  or  ground 

from  is.  to  2s.  per  Ib. 

Muscatels 

8d.  to  is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

East-India    .      . 

is.  6d.  per  Ib. 

Spices,  various     . 

4  id.  per  tin. 

Mocha 

is.  gd.  per  Ib. 

Sugar  —  Demerara 

2|d.  per  Ib. 

Coffee    and    Milk  . 

io|d.  per  tin. 

Loaf  .... 

2|d.  per  Ib. 

Currants 

2  id.  to  5d.  per  Ib. 

Tea- 

Custard  powder      . 

4  Id.  per  tin. 

Congou    . 

is.  2d.  per  Ib. 

Curry  powder   . 

is.  6d.  per  Ib.  bot. 

Ceylon     .      ,    ,,.,_ 

is.  6d.  to  35.  per  Ib. 

Paste       .      .      . 

is.  2d.  per  £  pt.  jar. 

Orange  Pekoe    . 

2S.  8d.  per  Ib. 

Egg  powder 

6d.  per  pkt. 

Gunpowder   . 

35.  per  Ib. 

Fruit  —  Dried 

is.  2d.  per  Ib. 

Assam  Pekoe     . 

2S.  6d.  per  Ib. 

Apricots        .   '  . 

is.  3d.  per  Ib. 

Oolong     .      . 

2S.  6d.  per  Ib. 

Lunettes 

is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

Young  Hyson    . 

2s.  6d.  per  Ib. 

Melon       .      .      . 

is.  6d.  per  Ib. 

Consolidated 

2S.  8d.  per  Ib. 

Mixed      .      .  ,?-| 

is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

Yeast-Powder 

4d.  per  t:.n. 

Preserved  and  Tinned  Provisions. — The  preservation  of  meat  and  other 
foods  by  pickling,  salting  and  smoking  has  been  in  use  since  early  times 
in  many  lands.  The  primitive  methods  of  exposing  slabs  of  meat, 
or  split-open  fish  and  fowls,  to  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun,  or  to  the 
action  of  smoke,  have  been  improved  upon.  A  large  choice  of 
smoked  hams  and  bacon  (the  pork  having  undergone  some  process  of 
"  curing  "  before  the  actual  smoke  exposure)  is  now  afforded,  and  other 
dried  foods  usually  found  in  the  market  are  smoked  tongues,  smoked 
and  salted  herrings,  mackerel,  salmon,  eels,  turtle,  etc.,  smoked  breasts 
of  geese  and  sausages. 

Of  much  more  recent  origin  are  the  methods  of  preserving  foods  in 
bottles  and  tins.  This  system  is  due  to  a  Parisian,  named  Appert.  He 
placed  meats,  vegetables  and  fruits  in  bottles,  brought  them  to  the  boil, 
and  hermetically  sealed  the  openings.  It  is  true  that  before  his  day, 
it  had  been  the  custom  to  put  foods  in  vases  with  or  without  water  and. 


MARKETING 


vinegar,  and  pour  on  an  air  impervious  seal  of  oil.  But  Appert's 
system  was  a  great  step  in  advance,  and  gave  rise  to  the  enormous  trade 
in  tinned  and  bottled  foods.  For  years  the  system  was  chiefly  applied 
to  the  preserving  of  expensive  delicacies,  but  it  was  ultimately  adopted 
in  Australia  and  America  for  the  packing  of  cheap  foods,  such  as  beef 
and  mutton,  and  afterwards  rabbits,  soups,  salmon  and  lobster. 
In  the  early  stages,  Australian  meat  was  partly  roasted,  then 
packed  in  tins  which  were  boiled  in  a  water  bath,  or  by  steam, 
and  then  sealed  down.  Though  the  meat  was  cheap,  it  was  somewhat 
overcooked,  and  therefore  neither  tasty  nor  nourishing.  Improve- 
ments have  been  steadily  produced,  and  now  the  meat,  fowl,  and  fish 
imported  from  abroad  in  tins  is  usually  excellent.  Some  precaution 
should  be  taken.  The  food  remains  wholesome  so  long  as  the  tins 
remain  air-tight,  but  if  air  gets  in,  decomposition  soon  follows.  It 
is  therefore  necessary  to  see  that  the  tins  are  perfect  and  air- tight. 
Tins  should  not  be  bulged  ;  the  tops  and  bottoms  should  be  concave, 
and  have  the  appearance  of  depressions.  They  should  be  free  from 
rust.  Bulged  and  rusty  tins  should  be  rejected,  and  so  ought  those 
which  emit  a  rush  of  air  on  being  opened.  As  soon  as  a  tin  is  opened 
the  whole  contents  should  be  turned  out.  Fish  should  be  eaten 
(or  at  all  events  cooked)  the  same  day  it  is  opened.  This  does 
not  apply  to  sardines  and  other  kinds  preserved  in  oil,  afthough 
even  these  had  better  be  placed  in  glass  or  earthenware  dishes.  Tinned 
vegetables  and  fruits  soon  deteriorate  when  opened  if  left  in  the  tins. 
As  a  rule,  foods  preserved  in  earthenware  and  glass  are  better  and 
safer,  though  rather  more  expensive  than  those  sold  in  tin  cans. 
Tinned  and  bottled  fruits  should  be  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  cupboard. 
Tinned  sardines,  bottled  anchovies  and  anchovy  paste  ought  always 
to  be  kept  in  store,  as  they  are  useful  in  preparing  many  dishes. 

TINNED  PROVISIONS,  JAMS,  etc. 


ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Cherries  in  Brandy 

15.  yd.  per  half  bot. 

Haddocks,   Blanch- 

Cake,  Various   . 

in  _(/.  each. 

flower  . 

io</.  per  tin. 

Fruit  in  Tins  — 

Herrings 

8d.  per  tin. 

Poaches    .      . 

lod.  per  tin. 

Honey    .... 

nd.  per  jar. 

Pineapple 

5±d.  to  nA</.  per  tin. 

Jams- 

Pears  .      .      . 

gd.  to  is.'bd  

Apricot    . 

5<f.  per  Ib.  jar. 

Apricots  . 
Bottled  Plums 
Cranberries    . 

Sd.  to  15.  4<*.  „     „ 
6J<*.  per  bottle. 
8U.  per  bottle. 

Raspberry     . 
Strawberry    . 
Raspberry      and 

(>(/.  per  Ib.  jar. 
$d.  per  Ib.  jar. 

Gooseberries 

6Jrf.  per  bottle. 

Currant 

5|rf.  per  Ib    jar. 

Black  Currants 
Red  Currants 

lid.  per  bottle. 
8±d.  per  bottle. 

Greengage      .      . 
Black  Currant     . 

5</.  per  Ib.  jar. 
6d.  per  Ib.  jar. 

Cherries    . 

lod.  per  bottle. 

Red  Currant 

5</.  per  Ib.  jar. 

-a^es    . 
Raspberries    and 

gd.  per  bottle. 

Gooseberry    . 
Plum  .... 

;  'T  Ib.  jar. 
4<V.  per  Ib.  jar. 

Currants    . 

15.  per  bottle. 

92  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

TINNED  PROVISIONS,  JAMS,  ETC.  (continued}— 


ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Jellies- 

Meats,  etc.  (contd.)  — 

Red  Currant 

\d.  per  £  Ib.  pot. 

Lunch  Ham 

is.  id.  per  i  fib.  tin. 

Black  Currant    . 

4d    per  J  Ib.  pot. 

Minced  Collops  . 

9  Id.  per  2  Ib.  tin. 

Calf's  Foot    .      . 

is.  6d.  per  qt.  bot. 

Minced  Steak     . 

g\d.  per  2  Ib.  tin. 

Orange     .     'V  *i 

is.  6d.  per  qt.  bot. 

Mutton      Cutlets 

Lemon     .    .,,  ,  t-.  i. 

is.  6d.  per  qt.  bot. 

with    Tomato 

Madeira   . 

2s.  per  qt.  bot. 

Sauce    . 

is.  gd.  per  tin. 

Aspic  . 

is.  6d.  per  qt.  bot. 

Mutton,  Roast   . 

lod.  per  tin. 

Lobster  .      .    ^;«--»! 

8d.  per  tin. 

Mutton,  Boiled  . 

is.   2d.   per  tin. 

Marmalade  .      *     '.. 

4d.  per  Ib.  jar. 

Ox  Tongues  . 

2s.  gd.  per  tin. 

Meats,    Game    and 

Ox  Tails  (solid)  . 

g\d.  per  2  Ib.  tin. 

Poultry- 

Pheasant,  Roast, 

Ham  and  Chicken 

is.  4d.  small  tin. 

whole,  in  Jelly 

4S.  6d.  per  tin. 

Turkey            and 

Ptarmigan     . 

is.  gd.  per  tin. 

Tongue 

is.  4d.  small  tin. 

Pic-nic  Pie    . 

is.  4d.  per  tin. 

Ham,       Chicken, 

Rabbit,  excellent 

and  Tongue 

is.  4d.  small  tin. 

quality 

gd.  per  tin. 

Beef,    Ham    and 

Rabbit,        finest 

Tongue 

2S.  large  tin. 

quality 

io£d.  per  tin. 

Veal,  Ham  and 

Rabbit,  Curried  . 

io|d.  per  2  Ib.  tin 

Tongue 

2S.  large  tin. 

Stewed      Kidney 

Chicken           and 

and  Mushroom 

is.  gd.  per  tin. 

Tongue 

2S.  i|d.  large  tin. 

Turkey            and 

Chicken           and 

Tongue 

n|d.  per  tin. 

Ham     . 

2S.  i|d.  large  tin. 

Turkey,  —  Roast  . 

is.  3d.  per  tin. 

Chicken,        Ham 

Turkey,      Bone- 

and  Tongue    . 

2S.  i  £d.  large  tin. 

less       .      .      . 

1  1  £d.  per  \  Ib.  tin. 

Turkey            and 

Tete  de  Veau  (en 

Tongue      ^r;>4- 
Veal  and  Ham  . 

2S.  \\d.  large  tin. 
2S.   \\d.  large  tin. 

Tortue)      .      . 
Veal    and    Ham 

is.  sd.  per  tin. 

Pork  and  Rabbit 

is.  8d.  per  tin. 

(half     -     circle 

Beef,    Boiled    or 

tin)       .      .      . 

is.  io£d.  per  tin. 

Roast.  .      .      . 

is.  2d.  per  tiu. 

Veal  Cutlets  with 

Chicken,     Roast, 

Tomato  Sauce 

is.  gd.  per  tin. 

whole,  in  ielly. 

3s.  3d.  per  tin. 

Veal  Loaf      .      . 

9  id.  per  tin. 

Chicken     (Poulet 

Milk— 

de  Bresse) 

2S.  6d.  per  tin. 

Anglo-Swiss  . 

5  id.  per  tin. 

Half  Roast  Fowl 

English    .      .      . 

5d.  per  tin. 

and  Sausage   . 

2S.  per  tin. 

Olives  — 

Chicken           and 

French 

6d.  per  bottle. 

Tongue      (half 

Spanish    . 

8d.  per  bottle. 

circle  tin)  . 

is.  lojd.  per  tin. 

Oysters  .... 

6id.  per  tin. 

Chicken,  Spring 

Plum  Pudding 

is.  lod.  per  Ib.  tin. 

(one  bird  in  tin) 

is.  6d.  per  tin. 

Potted  Meats  — 

Chicken,  Roast  . 

is.  3d.  per  i£lb.  tin. 

Anchovy  . 

5d.  per  tin. 

Chicken,  Boneless 

1  1  \d.  per  |  Ib.  tin. 

Bloater'  .      .      . 

5d.  per  tin. 

Duck,  Boneless  . 

nfd.  per  1  Ib.  tin. 

Ham  —  Tongue    . 

5d.  per  tin. 

Calf's   Head  and 

Strasbourg  Meats  — 

Tomato 

i  s§  2  \d.  per  tin. 

Beef    .... 

5d.  per  tin. 

Camp  Pie 

is.  4d.  per  tin. 

Pate  de  foie  gras 

2S.  6d.  per  jar. 

Game  Pie 

is.  4d.  per  tin. 

Game 

5d.  per  tin. 

T  u  £T£ccl  H<irc 

is.  ^d.  per  tin. 

Rabbit 

is    Sd    per  tin. 

Lambs'       Sweet- 

salmon .... 

8d.  per  tin. 

breads        with 

Sardines  (Peneau)  . 

is.  2d.  per  tin. 

Tomato   Sauce 

is.  \\d.  per  tin. 

(Philipee         and 

Larks,  Roast,     6 

Canaud)     .      . 

is.  4d.  per  tin. 

birds     . 

2s.  gd.  per  tin. 

Sausages 

6d.  to  2S.  per  tin. 

MARKETING 
TINNED    PROVISIONS,    JAMS,    ETC.   (continued) — 


ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Soups—- 
Turtle   (Brand's) 
Ox   Tail,      Mock 
Turtle,      Hare, 

is.  $d.  per  qt.  tin. 

S  tups  (contd.)  — 
Gravy,  Vegetable 
Green  Pea     . 
Mutton  Broth    . 
Truffles 

is.  per  qt.  tin. 
yd.  per  qt.  tin. 
is.  per  qt.  tin. 
is.  Sd.  J  bottle. 

gatawny.  Gravy, 
and  Giblet 
Soups     (Crosse     & 
Blackwell,  and 
Lazenby)  — 
Game  —  Hare 
Mock  Turtle,  Ox 
Tail        .       .       . 
Giblet.    Mulliga- 
tawny . 
Julienne  . 

From  is.  per  qt.  tin. 

is.  6d.  per  qt.  tin. 
is.  4d.  per  qt.  tin. 

is.  4</.  per  qt.  tin. 
is.  per  qt.  tin. 

Vegetables  — 
Artichokes     . 
Asparagus 
Celery 
French  Beans     . 
Green  Peas   . 
Haricots,  Verts  . 
Macedoine 
Mushrooms    . 
Tomatoes      .      . 

is.  4\d.  per  l>ot. 
is.  per  tin. 
gd.  per  tin. 
is.  per  tin. 
io(/.   per  qt.   tin. 
is.  per  qt.  tin. 
io\d.  per  qt.   tin. 
is.  per  qt.  tin. 
4</.  to  (>(/.   per  tin. 

BISCUITS. 

ARTICLE. 

\(,E  PRICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  rim  i  . 

Aberucthy   .      .      . 

6d.  per  Ib. 

Ginger  Nuts  .      . 

6rf.  per  Ib. 

Almond    Rings 

(></.    per   11). 

Ice  Creams     .      . 

is.  Sd.  per  Ib. 

>ot    . 

7</.   per  Ib. 

Jam  Fingers  . 

s,/.   per  Ib. 

Arrowroot  (thin)    . 
Hath       .... 

Sd.  per  Ib. 
7d.  per  Ib. 

Kindergarten  . 
Lunch  .... 

5d.  per  Ib. 
From  3d.  per  Ib. 

Breakfast     . 

Sd.  per  Ib. 

Macaroons  . 

n</.   per  Ib. 

Butter    .      . 

5  ••/.    per  Ib. 

Marie    .... 

r  Ib. 

Buttt-r  Cream   . 

•r  Ib. 

Maitrc  d'Hotel     . 

From  is.  per  Ib. 

Butter   Finders 
Butter   Nuts 

(>\ji.   per  Ib. 
v/.  per  Ib. 

Milk      .... 
.... 

$d.  per  Ib. 

From  (.</.  per  Ib. 

Cinderella     . 

(>,/.   per  Ib. 

.... 

From   (•</.    per  Ib. 

Captain 

S./.   per  Ib. 

ikes.      .      . 

. 

. 

s</.    per  Ib. 

Olive      .... 

I0$</.    per    11). 

Coffee       .... 

]o</.  per  Ib. 

Osborne     . 

7d.  per  Ib. 

CoKmial 

K/.     per    11). 

»..-••• 

«x/.   per  Ib. 

Crackm  I       ... 

r  Ib. 

Ratafias     .      .      . 

I.    per    Ib. 

Cream  Cracker. 

(></.  per  Ib. 

Shortbread 

From  gd.  per  tin. 

.... 

lod.  to  is.  3</.  per  Ib. 

Tea  

r  Ib. 

-live      . 

o«/.   per  Ib.       .       . 

Toast   .... 

7d.  per  Ib. 

Dinner                              qd.  per  Ib. 

.... 

$d.  per  Ib. 

Garibaldi 

6d    per  Ib. 

-  (various)  . 

is.  2d.  to  is.  Sd. 

. 

From   h,/.  per  Ib. 

Wholemeal      .      . 

Sd.  per  Ib. 

GRAIN  AND  PREPARED  FOODS. 

<  LE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  I 

Arrowroot    .      .      .       From    s</.    to    lod. 

Rice  (continued)  — 

per  Ib. 

Patna     . 

2\d.  per  Ib. 

Barlev    .      .                    2il.   PIT  Ib. 

Java.      . 

2\J.     per    Ib. 

Corn  'Flour                      5</-  P«T  11).  packet. 

Carolina  . 

}j.    per    11). 

.       .                     4</.  per  Ib.  packet. 

Ground  . 

zJ.   per  Ib. 

Hotninv        .                    _'(/.   per  Ib. 

Sago,  Small 

2<f.    per    Ib. 

Lentil   Flour                   3</.   per  Ib. 
Oatmeal        .                    From   2\,i.   per  Ib. 

e     . 

Semolina   . 

2\<l.    per    Ib. 

2\ti.   j-tr  Ib. 

ur    .                    (x/.   per  tiiu 

a 

2J.   per  Ib. 

t.      . 

\il.    per    11). 

-;oon        .      .      id.  per  Ib. 

Vermicelli  . 

3|d.  per  Ib. 

94 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


SAUCES  AND  PICKLES. 


ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

fauces  — 

Sauces  (continued)  — 

Anchovy 

lod.  per  bottle. 

Horseradish  . 

4%d.  per  pot. 

Browning  for  See 

5^d.  per  bottle. 

Mason's  O.K. 

7£d.  per  bottle. 

Brand's  Ai    . 

8d.  per  bottle. 

Foundation  Sauces 

Tomato    .      .      . 

io£d.  per  bottle. 

Italienne,  dark  . 

is.  gd.  4  oz.  bottle. 

Clarence  .      .--  1, 

6d.  per  bottle. 

Espagnole,  brown 

is.  gd.  4  oz.  bottle. 

Harvey's 

yd.  per  bottle. 

Allemande,  pale  . 

is.  gd.  4  oz.  bottle. 

Ketchup 

8d.  per  bottle. 

Pickles- 

Reading  (Cock's) 

lod.  per  bottle. 

Cabbage  . 

8|d.  per  pint  bot. 

Soy     .      .      . 

6|d.  per  bottle. 

Cauliflower    . 

8  id.  per  pint  bot. 

Regent     .      .      . 

is.  per  bottle. 

Onions,  Mixed    . 

8  id.  per  pint  bot. 

Worcester 

4%d.  per  bottle. 

Walnuts  .      .      .   !  8|d.  per  pint  bot. 

Yorkshire  Relish 

4\d.  and  gd.  per  bot. 

Piccalilli.      .      .      8  Id.  per  pint  bot. 

Edward's 

3d.  per  bottle. 

Gherkins        .      .    j  8|d.  per  pint  bot. 

Mushroom     Ket- 

Mangoes . 

8£d.  per  pint  bot. 

chup     .      .  %  '..  ; 

5d.  per  bottle. 

Chutnee   . 

is.  per  bottle. 

Bengal  Chutney. 

15.  per  bottle. 

Mango 

is.  per  bottle. 

Curry 

6|d.  per  tin. 

Indian  Relish     . 

is.  6d.  per  jar. 

HOUSEHOLD    REQUISITES. 


ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 

Bath  Brick      ;.J^1 

id.  each. 

Nugget      .      4   .-.•«• 

4\d.  and  gd.  per  bot. 

Beeswax      .      .     » 

is.  gd.  per  Ib. 

Pepper—  Whole    . 

is.  2d.  per  Ib. 

Blacking      .      .    .4 

3d.  doz.  skins. 

Ground    . 

is.  2d.  per  Ib. 

Ebonite   .      .      . 

gd.  per  bottle. 

Cayenne        .     . 

4d.  per  bottle. 

Blacklead    .      .      . 

6d.  per  packet. 

Nepaul     . 

4d.  to  is.  per  bottle. 

Blue                        .   j  lod.  per  Ib. 

Plate  Powder  .      . 

6d.  per  box. 

Brunswick  Black  . 

yd.  per  bottle. 

Polishing  Paste    . 

6d.  per  pot. 

Candles,  Composite 

35.  6d.  6  Ib. 

Salt      .... 

7£d.  per  14  Ib. 

Stearine  .      .      •  I  3».  gd.  6  Ib. 

Cerebos 

6d.  per  tin. 

Rock  Wax        .      . 

3s.  gd.  6  Ib. 

Soap,  Yellow  (Kt.) 

3d.  per  Ib. 

Dyes       .... 

3^d.  per  bottle. 

Soft  (Knight)     . 

io£d.  3$-lb.  tin. 

Gold  Paint       .      . 

lold.  per  bottle. 

Cold  Water  .      . 

3d.  per  Ib. 

Essences  (flavouring);  from  3d.  per  bottle. 

Carbolic  . 

3d.  per  Ib. 

Furniture  Polish    . 

6d.  per  pot. 

Hudson's  Extract 

4d.  per  packet. 

Cream 

6d.  per  bottle. 

Toilet.      .     .      . 

id.  to  6d.  per  tablet. 

Knife  Powder  . 

4\d.  per  packet. 

Soda     .... 

7d.  per  14  Ib. 

Polish       .      .      . 

\\d.  per  packet. 

Starch—  Glenfield 

5  id.  per  Ib. 

Metal  Polishing  Pdr. 

3d.  per  box. 

Col  man's 

3|d.  per  Ib. 

Night  Lights    .      . 

45.  doz.  boxes. 

Vinegar 

1\d.  per  quart. 

MARKETING 


95 


WINES,   SPIRITS   AND    LIQUEURS. 

In  the  following  lists  the  prices  are  averaged  from  those  of  several 
good  firms  of  Wine  Merchants,  both  in  London  and  the  chief  pro- 
vincial towns.  Prices  vary  very  considerably  according  to  the  age  of 
the  wine  and  vintage  years. 


WINES. 


Australian  Wines  (Red) — 

Burgundy   .   from  igs.  per  doz.  bots. 

Cabernet      .       „      245.  per  doz.  bots 

Chablis        .      ,,      igs.  per  doz.  bots. 

Australian  Wines  (White) — 

Riesling  .      .   from  225.  per  doz.  bots. 

Muscat   .      .       ,,     3os.  per  doz.  bots. 

Bordeaux  (White) — 

Sauterne.      .  from  255.  per  doz.  bots. 

imdy  (Red) — 

Burgundy    .  from  i8s.  per  doz.  bots. 
Beaune  .      .       „    24$.  per  do/ 
Chambertin.       „    6os.  per  doz.  bots. 
California  Wines — 

Burgundy     .  from  195.  per  doz.  bots. 
Claret      .      .      „     175.  per  do/. 
Sauterne.      .      „    255.  per  do/ 
Hock  Riesing     „    195.  per  doz.  bots. 
Champagne — 

Bollinger  &  Co.  from  825.  per  doz.  bots. 
&  G 

7os.  per  doz.  bots. 
8os.  per  doz.  bots. 
90s.  per  doz.  bots. 

„  78s.  per  doz.  bots. 
„  66s.  per  doz.  bots. 
„  875.  per  doz.  bots. 
„  845.  per  doz.  bots. 
„  1565.  per  doz.  bots. 

[as.  per  doz.  bots. 
„    1 8s.  per  doz.  bots. 

js.  per  doz.  bots. 


I!  Claret  (continued) — 

Chateau  Laftte  from  4005.  per  doz.  bots. 
Chateau     Cos 

SQS.  per  doz.  bots. 


dennann    . 

Duminv  &  Co. 
H.-idsieck&Co. 
Laurent- Per- 
rier  . 

t  &  Chan- 
don  . 

(I.  H.    Mumm 
&Co.    .      . 
Piper- Heid- 
sieck 

..ruery    & 
C.n-no     . 
t— 
Ordinary  . 

.       . 

Chateau   Mar- 
gaux       .       . 


Chateau     Cos 
d'Estournel 

Hock— 
Niersteiner 
Johannisberg  . 
Marcobrunner 
Rudesheimer  . 

Italian  Wine— 
Egidio  Vital! 


Chianti, 
nary 


Ordi- 


from  245.  per  doz.  bots. 
„   1 26s.  per  doz.  hots. 
,,      565.  per  do/ 
,,    30$.  per  doz.  bots. 

from  66s.  per  doz.  bots. 


,,  2is.  6d.  per  doz  bots. 
Tarragona  Port.   „      izs.  per  doz.  bots. 
Madeira — 

Dinner  Wine  .  from  325.  to  68s.  per  doz. 
Marsala—  [bots- 

i  .     .     fromigs.  6J.  per  doz.  bots. 
Moselle— 
Berncastler  Doc- 
tor A  uslese  from  6os.   per  doz.  bots. 
Port          .      .     ,,i8s.toi44s.perdoz.bots. 
Vintage  Wine;— 

Tuke's,  1802     .  from  66s.  per  d.>/.  bots. 
I,  1885      .      „    705.  per  doz.  bots. 
man's.  iSt>s  ,,  1445.  per  do. 
Sherry — 

Pale.  .  .  .  from  1 8s.  per  doz.  bots 
Golden  .  .  .  „  20$.  per  doz.  bots. 
Superior  Golden  „  485.  per  doz.  IK  >ts. 
Montilla  .  .  ,.  66s.  per  doz.  bot  i. 
British  Wines- 
Orange  .  .  .  from  145.  per  do/ 

:...,,     145.  per  d<»/.  1).  its. 
.    .      .      .      „     I4S.  per  do/ 
;p.      .      .      „    I4S.  per  do/ 

.      .      .      „      75.  per  do/.  l»..i.,. 


SPIRITS. 


Iv  .  from  4os.  to  20os.  per  doz.  bots.  !|  Rum 
.     ,,    28s.  to  385.  per  doz.  bots.  I   Whiskey 


.  from  35$.  to  43$.  per  doz.  bots. 

„    375.  to  66s.  per  do/ 
3Oi.  to  555.  6d.   per   <;  i mtli.     „    305.  per  doz.  bots. 

I 


96 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 
LIQUEURS. 


Liqueurs  — 
Absinthe     . 

from  6s.  per  bot. 

Liqueurs  (continued)  — 
Kirschwasser    .  from  55.  6d.  per  bot. 

Anisette     . 

'  „       55.  per  bot. 

Kiimmel            .             45.  %d.  per  bot. 

Benedictine     . 

„        75.  per  bot. 

Maraschino.      .             45.  gd.  per  bot. 

Creme  de  Menthe  „        5$.  6d.  per  bot. 

Vermouth   .      .             2s.  6d.  per  bot. 

Chartreuse  (yel- 

English Liqueurs  — 

low)  .      .      . 

„        95.  per  bot! 

Cherry  Brand  v.  from  35.  6d.  per  bot. 

C  hartreuse 
(green)   .      . 

„       us.  Sd.  per  bot. 

Ginger    Brandy             3$.  6d.  per  bot. 
Orange  Brandy             35.  6d.  per  bot. 

Curacoa  (sweet 

Milk  Punch       .             35.  6d.  per  bot. 

or  dry)  . 

„       55.  gd.  per  bot. 

ALES  AND  STOUT. 

Dinner  Ale 

2s.  6d.  per  doz.  bots. 

Bitter  Ale      ...  us.  6d.  per  9  gals. 

Stout    .... 

2S.  6d.  per  doz.  bots. 

Stout  in  Cask     .      .145.  per  9  gals. 

Pale  Ale     .      .-     ; 

8s.  6d.  per  9  gals. 

Porter  in  Cask   .      .     95.  per  9  gals. 

MINERAL  WATERS  AND  BEVERAGES. 


ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  1 

5RICE. 

ARTICLE. 

AVERAGE  ] 

'RICE. 

Soda  Water     .._, 

is.  ^d.  per 

doz. 

Bitters  — 

Lemonade         '.'•'  \u 

is.  6d. 

Angostura     . 

45.  6d.  per 

bot. 

Ginger  Beer     .-     *  ; 

is.  6d. 

Hop   .... 

2s.  6d. 

Ginger  Ale      •V1  •*£*• 

is.  6d. 

Khoosh    .      .     . 

25.    6d. 

Potass    .... 

is.  6d. 

Orange    . 

2S.    6d. 

Lithia    .... 

35.  gd. 

Fruit  J  uice  &Syrups 

Soda  Water  (Sch.) 

as.  gd. 

Lemon  Juice 

4*4. 

Seltzer                 ,    . 

as.  gd. 

Orange  Juice     . 

4  W. 

Ginger  Ale 

2s.  gd. 

Lime  Fruit  Juice 

IS. 

Lemonade 

35.  3d. 

Lime  Juice  Cordl. 

IS.    lid. 

Potass 

2s.  gd. 

Syrups,  Lemon, 

Lithia 

45. 

etc.       .      .      . 

IS.                       , 

i 

Vinegar,    Rasp- 

berry   . 

Sid. 

• 

NATURAL  MINERAL  WATERS. 


NAME. 

PROPERTIES. 

PRICE. 

Aperient  ..... 

us    per  doz    bottles 

Apollinaris  
Buffalo  Lithia  ...  ;' 
Carlsbad  ..... 

Table  Water      .      .      . 
Alkaline  Lithiated  .      . 
Alkaline  Lithiated  . 

6s.  per  doz.  bottles. 
95.  per  doz.  bottles. 
i2s.  per  doz.  bottles 

Hunyadi  Janos 

Saline  Aperient 
Table  Water,  Gaseous 

I2S.  per  doz.  bottles. 
6s.  per  doz    bottles 

Alkaline  Chalybeate 

us    per  doz    bottles 

Rosbach  
Salutaris  (Manufactured) 
Taunus  .  '  •  '  '"•'  '  .  . 

Table  Water      .      .      . 
Table  Water      .      .      . 
Table  Water,  Gaseous 

6s.  per  doz.  bottles. 
4s.  6d.  per  doz.  bottles. 
*5s.  per  doz.  bottles. 

Vichy  (State  Springs) 

Alkaline  Acidulated 

95.  per  doz.  bottles. 

MARKETING  GUIDE:  MUTTON. 


V   ^ 


i.    Hind    Ouartcr.  2.    Un-a.;t.        v    Neck.        4.    Leg.        5.     Saddle.        6.    Shoulder. 

7-   Haunch.      3.  Side:  A.  Leg,  B.  Loin,  c.  Best  End  of  Neck,  D.  L>reust,  E.  Shoulder, 
rag. 

17  E 


MARKETING  GUIDE:  PORK  AND  VEAL. 


i.    Side    of    Pork  :     A.  Leg,     B.  Belly,    c.  Loin,    D.  Hand,    E.  Spare  Rib.  3.  Loin. 
4.  Hand  and  Spring,  and  Belly.     5.  Loin  (side  view)  :    F.   Fore-end,  c.   Middle  Loin, 
n.  Hind  Loin.     6.  Leg.     2.  Neck  of  Veal.     7.  Side  of  Veal :    A.   Knuckle,    u.    HJlet, 
c.  Loin,  D.  Breast,  E.  Best  End  of  Neck,  F.  Shoulder,  c.  Scrag. 
18 


MARKETING 


97 


COMPARATIVE  VALUE  OF  FOOD,  WITH  ITS  PERCENTAGE  OF  CARBON 

AND  NITROGEN. 
SHOWING  WHAT  A  SHILLING  WILL  BUY. 


A  SHILLING  WILL  BUY 

BONE. 

MEAT. 

TOTAL 
\\"I:IGHT. 

CENT- 
GARI 

l'i  K  CENT. 

Nil  KOGEN. 

Rumpsteak 

none. 

13  oz. 

13  oz. 

11-00 

3-00 

Heels  teak 

none. 

16  oz. 

16  oz. 

,, 

»» 

Ribs  of  beef 

2\    OZ. 

i  Si  oz. 

1  8  oz. 

,, 

•  • 

:  mutton  piece    . 

none. 

19  oz. 

19  oz. 

» 

•  • 

Shin 

none 

30  oz. 

30  oz 

1  1 

Leg  of  mutton     . 

2.\    OZ. 

i;\   OCL 

1  8  oz. 

,, 

Loin  of  mutton   . 

3"  "z. 

15  oz. 

IS    o/. 

1, 

•  • 

Neck    (best    end).       . 

4  oz. 

16  oz. 

20  oz. 

,, 

.. 

Shoulder   (best    end). 

3  oz. 

17  oz. 

20  oz. 

,, 

» 

Veal  cutlet      .      .      . 

2    02. 

10    OZ. 

12    n/. 

,, 

.. 

'    of  veal       . 

'•    "/.. 

22    OZ. 

.. 

.. 

Salmon       .... 

I      OZ. 

7  oz. 

S   oz. 

One-  third  of  a  fowl    . 

II  OZ. 

<;    «>/. 

20   OZ. 

14-,  H  ) 

Two-thirds  of  a  rabbit 

4  o/. 

1  6  oz. 

20    OZ. 

— 

— 

Bacon         .... 

j  o/. 

19  oz. 

21    OZ. 

62-58 

Bread          .... 

— 

— 

100    OZ. 

30-00 

riinse         .... 

— 

— 

24  oz. 

41 

4-126 

Potatoes     .... 

— 

— 

192  oz. 

81-00 

0'33 

Oatmeal' 

— 

— 

I  I  2    OZ. 

44-00 

Hiri'iit    bi-.ui.si     . 

— 

— 

"Z. 

Hommv1 

— 

— 

oz. 

40 

To  arrive  al  the  relative  value  of  various  foods,  it  is  absolutely  1: 
sary  to  carefully  estimate  their  ditk-rent  nutritive  qual 

By  this  table  it  will  be  seen  that  some  expensive  foods  are  really 
even  more  costly  than  they  appear  at  first  sight,  because  of  the  small 
proportion  of  flesh-forming,  or  nutritive  quality  they  contain.  As  an 
instance  of  this  one  shilling  will  buy  only  7  ozs.  of  salmon,  containing 
2  per  cent  nitrogen.,  while  the  same  sum  will  buy  30  ozs.  of  shin  of  beef, 
containing  3  per  cent,  nitrogen,  or  24  ozs.  of  cheese,  containing  4  per 
cent. 

The  heat-giving  qualities  can  be  estimated  by  comparing  the  large 
ntage  of  carbon  which  such  foods  as  oatmeal  and  potatoes  contain 
with  the  small  amount  which  is  found  in  various  meats.  Thus  one 
shilling  will  buy  136  oxs.  of  hominy,  containing  40-28  per  cent,  of  car- 
bon, or  i<)2  ozs.  of  potatoes,  containing  Si  per  cc-nt.,  whilst  it  will  only 
buy  13  ozs.  of  steak,  which  contains  n  per  cent,  of  carbon. 


;  Once,  weeklv.  remember  thy  charges  to  cast, 

M'.onthly.  see  how  thy  expenses  may  last." — TPSSFR,  1557- 


Artificially  dried.     Reckon  half  as  much  again  for  the  water  to  be  added. 

E 


98  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

CALENDAR  OF  FOOD  IN  SEASON 

The  following  lists  will  be  found  useful  in  arranging  menus,  as  it  can 
be  seen  at  a  glance  what  Fish,  Meat,  Vegetables,  etc.,  are  in  season,  but 
it  will  be  necessary  to  turn  to  our  price  lists  to  know  when  all  such  fresh 
provisions  are  cheapest  and  best.  It  need  hardly  be  added  that 
tinned  and  preserved  provisions  are  always  to  be  obtained. 

JANUARY. 

Fish. — Brill,  carp,  cod,  crayfish,  eels,  flounders,  haddocks,  halibut, 
ling,  lobsters,  mussels,  oysters,  perch,  pike,  prawns,  scallops,  shrimps, 
skate,  smelts,  soles,  sprats,  tench,  turbot,  whitebait,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  house  lamb,  mutton,  pork,  veal,   venison. 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducklings,  pigeons,  pullets,  turkeys. 

Game. — Hares,  partridges,  pheasants,  snipe,  wild-fowl,  woodcock. 

Vegetables.  —  Jerusalem  Artichokes,  beetroot,  broccoli,  cabbages, 
carrots,  celery,  chervil,  cresses,  cucumbers,  endive,  lettuces,  parsnips, 
potatoes,  spinach,  turnips. 

Fruit.— Apples,  bananas,  grapes,  medlars,  nuts,  oranges,  pears,  pines, 
Spanish  nuts. 

FEBRUARY 

Fish. — Bream,  brill,  carp,  cod,  crab,  crayfish,  eels,  flounders,  had- 
docks, halibut,  herrings,  ling,  lobsters,  mullet,  mussels,  oysters,  pike, 
prawns,  salmon,  scallops,  shrimps,  skate,  smelts,  soles,  sprats,  turbot, 
whitebait,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,   house  lamb,   mutton,  pork,  veal. 

Poultry. — Capon,    chickens,    ducklings,    pigeons,    pullets,    turkeys. 

Game. — Hares,  partridges,  pheasants  (until  the  I5th),  snipes,  wood- 
cock, wild  fowl. 

Vegetables. — Jerusalem  Artichokes,  beetroot,  broccoli,  Brussels 
sprouts,  cabbages,  carrots,  celery,  chervil,  cresses,  cucumbers,  endive, 
lettuce,  parsnips,  potatoes,  savoys,  spinach,  turnips. 

Fruit. — Apples,  bananas,  chestnuts,  grapes,  medlars,  rhubarb,  nuts, 
oranges,  pears,  pines,  peaches,  Spanish  nuts. 

MARCH. 

Fish. — Bream,  brill,  carp,  cod,  crabs,  crayfish,  eels,  flounders,  had- 
docks, halibut,  herring,  ling,  lobsters,  mullet,  mussels,  oysters,  pike, 
prawns,  salmon,  scallops,  shrimps,  skate,  smelt,  soles,  sprats,  tench, 
turbot,  whiting,  whitebait. 

Meat. — Beef,  house  lamb,  mutton,  pork,  veal. 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducklings,  pigeons,  pullets,  turkeys, 
wild-fowl. 

Game. — Hares,  Guinea  fowls.  Foreign  :  black  game,  ortolans, 
ptarmigan,  quails. 


MARKETING  99 

Vegetables. — Jerusalem  artichokes,  asparagus,  beetroot,  broccoli, 
Brussels  sprouts,  cabbages,  cauliflowers,  celery,  chervil,  cucumbers, 
endive,  horseradish,  lettuce,  mushrooms,  parsnips,  radishes,  spinach, 
tomatoes,  watercress. 

Fruit. — Apples,  bananas,  figs,  grapes,  medlars,  nectarines,  oranges, 
pears,  peaches,  pines,  dried  fruits,  rhubarb. 

APRIL. 

Fish. — Bream,  brill,  crabs,  crayfish,  dory,  flounders,  gurnet,  haddock, 
halibut,  lobsters,  mullet,  mussels,  oysters,  prawns,  salmon,  scallops, 
shad,  shrimps,  skate,  smelts,  soles,  turbot,  trout,  whitebait,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  pork,  veal. 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducklings,  fowls,  goslings,  pigeons, 
pullets,  rabbits. 

Game. — Guinea  fowl.     Foreign  :    ortolans,  ptarmigan,  quails. 

Vegetables. — Jerusalem  artichokes,  asparagus,  beetroot,  broccoli, 
cabbages,  cauliflowers,  celery,  lettuce,  mushrooms,  parsnips,  radishes, 
seakale,  spinach,  sprouts,  tomatoes,  turnips,  watercress. 

Fruit. — Apples,  bananas,  figs,  grapes,  oranges,  pines,  dried  fruits, 
rhubarb. 

MAT. 

Fish. — Bass,  brill,  crabs,  crayfish,  dory,  eels,  hake,  halibut,  herrings, 
lobsters,  mackerel,  mullet,  prawns,  salmon,  shad,  scallops,  smelts,  soles, 
trout,  turbot,  whitebait,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  veal,  buck  venison. 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducklings,  fowls,  goslings,  pigeons, 
pullets,  rabbits. 

Game. — Guinea  fowl.     Foreign  :    ortolans,  ptarmigan,  quails. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes,  asparagus,  beans,  beetroot,  cabbages, 
carrots,  cauliflowers,  cresses,  cucumbers,  endive,  leeks,  lettuce,  mush- 
rooms, peas,  potatoes,  radishes,  seakale,  spinach,  tomatoes,  turnips, 
watercress. 

Fruit.— Apples,  bananas,  figs,  gooseberries  (green),  grapes,  oranges, 
,  pines,  dried  fruits,  rhubarb. 

JUNE. 

Fish. — Bass,  bream,  brill,  crabs,  crayfish,  dory,  eels,  gurnets,  halibut, 
hake,  haddock,  lobsters,  mackerel,  mullet,  plaice,  perch  (after  isth), 
prawns,  salmon,  shad,  soles,  shrimps,  trout,  turbot,  whitebait,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  buck  venison. 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducklings,  fowls,  goslings,  pigeons, 
pullets,  turkey  poults. 

Game.     Guinea  fowls.     Foreign  :    Hazel  hens,  quails. 


ioo  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Vegetables. — Asparagus,  artichokes,  beans,  beetroot,  cabbages,  car- 
rots, chervil,  cucumbers,  leeks,  lettuce,  mushrooms,  parsnips,  peas, 
potatoes,  radishes,  seakale,  spinach,  tomatoes,  turnips,  watercress. 

Fruit. — Apples,  bananas,  cherries,  currants,  gooseberries,  grapes, 
melons,  nectarines,  peaches,  pears,  pines,  strawberries,  rhubarb. 

JULY. 

Fish. — Bass,  bream,  brill,  carp,  crabs,  crayfish,  dory,  eels,  gurnets, 
haddock,  hake,  halibut,  herrings,  lobsters,  mackerel,  mullet,  perch, 
plaice,  prawns,  salmon,  shad,  shrimps,  soles,  tench,  trout,  turbot, 
whitebait,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  veal,  buck  venison. 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducklings,  fowls,  goslings,  pigeons, 
pullets,  rabbits,  turkey  poults. 

Game. — Quails  (foreign). 

Vegetables. — Artichokes,  asparagus,  beans,  beetroot,  cabbage,  carrots, 
cauliflowers,  chervil,  cresses,  cucumber,  endive,  leeks,  lettuce,  mush- 
rooms, peas,  spinach,  tomatoes,  turnips,  watercress. 

Fruit. — Apricots,  bananas,  cherries,  currants,  figs,  gooseberries, 
grapes,  melons,  nectarines,  oranges,  pears,  pineapples,  plums,  rasp- 
berries, strawberries. 

AUGUST. 

Fish. — Bass,  bream,  brill,  carp,  chub,  crabs,  crayfish,  dory,  eels, 
flounders,  gurnets,  haddock,  hake,  halibut,  lobsters,  mullet,  plaice, 
perch,  pike,  prawns,  salmon,  shad,  shrimps,  soles,  tench,  trout,  turbot, 
whitebait,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  veal,  buck  venison. 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducklings,  ducks,  fowls,  geese,  goslings, 
pigeons,  pullets,  rabbits,  turkey  poults. 

Game. — Black  game,  capercailzie  (2oth),  grouse  (i2th),  hares, 
plovers,  woodcock,  quails  (foreign). 

Vegetables. — Artichokes,  beans,  beetroot,  cabbages,  carrots,  cauli- 
flowers, cresses,  cucumbers,  leeks,  lettuce,  peas,  potatoes,  spinach, 
tomatoes,  turnips,  vegetable  marrows,  watercress. 

Fruit. — Apricots,  bananas,  cherries,  currants,  figs,  filberts,  grapes, 
greengages,  melons,  nectarines,  oranges,  peaches,  pears,  pines,  plums, 
raspberries,  strawberries. 

SEPTEMBER. 

Fish. — Bass,  bream,  brill,  carp,  cod,  crayfish,  dory,  eels,  flounders, 
gurnets,  haddocks,  hake,  halibut,  herrings,  lobsters,  mackerel,  mullet, 
oysters,  perch,  pike,  plaice,  shrimps,  soles,  trout,  turbot,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  pork,  veal,  buck  venison. 


MARKETING  101 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducks,  fowls,  geese,  pigeons,  pullets, 
rabbits,  turkey  poults,  turkeys. 

Game. — Black   game,   capercailzie,   grouse,   hares,   partridges. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes,  beans,  beetroot,  cabbages,  carrots,  cauli- 
flowers, celery,  cresses,  cucumbers,  endive,  leeks,  lettuce,  mushrooms, 
parsnips,  peas,  spinach,  sprouts,  tomatoes,  turnips,  vegetable  marrows, 
watercress. 

Fruit. — Apples,  apricots,  bananas,  cherries  (morella),  cob-nuts, 
damsons,  figs,  filberts,  grapes,  melons,  medlars,  nectarines,  oranges, 
peaches,  pears,  pines,  plums,  quinces,  walnuts. 

OCTOBER. 

Fish. — Bream,  brill,  carp,  cod,  crabs,  crayfish,  dory,  eels,  flounders, 
gurnet,  haddocks,  halibut,  herrings,  lobsters,  mackerel,  mullet,  musx  Is, 
oysters,  perch,  pike,  plaice,  salmon  (Dutch),  scallops,  shrimps,  skute, 
smelts,  tench,  turbot,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  pork,  veal,  doc  venison. 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducks,  fowls,  geese,  pigeons,  pullets, 
rabbits,  turkeys,  turkey  poults. 

Game. — Black  game,  capercailzie,  hares,  grouse,  pheasants,  par- 
tridges, ptarmigan. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes,    beetroots,    cabbages,    carrots,    cauliflowers, 
celery,    cucumber,    lettuce,    mushrooms,    spinach,    tomatoes,    turnips, 
able  marrows,  watercress. 

Fruit.  —Apples,  apricots,  bananas,  ci  .  damsons,  figs,  filberts, 

5,    medlars,    melons,   nectarines,    peaches,    pears,   pines,  qui 
walnuts. 

NOVEMBER. 

Fish. — Bream,  brill,  carp,  cod,  crabs,  crayfish,  dory,  flounders,  eels, 
gurnet,  haddocks,  halibut,  herrings,  lobsters,  mackerel,  mullet,  m: 

is,  perch,  pike,  plaice,  salmon  (Dutch),  scallops,  shrimps,  skate, 
smelts,  sprats,  soles,  tench,  turbot,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  pork,  doe  venison. 

Poultry.  -Capons,    chickens,    ducks,    fowls,    geese,    pigeons,    pullets, 
ts,    turk'-v-poults,   tnrl; 

Game.  -Black  ^une,  capercailzie,  grouse,  hares,  partridges,  pheasants, 
ptarmigan. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes,  beetroot,   Brussels  sprouts,  carrots,  celery. 
s,  cucumbers,  leeks,  lettuce,  parsnip-,  spinach,  tomatoes,  turnips, 
turnip  t«p,,   watercress. 

Fruit.     Apples,  bananas,  chestnuts,  cranberries,  figs,  filbert 
melons,    oranges,    pears,    pines,    pomegranates,    plums    (Calif ornian), 
wain:. 


102  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

DECEMBER. 

Fish. — Brill,  carp,  cod,  crabs,  crayfish,  eels,  flounders,  gurnets, 
haddocks,  halibut,  herrings,  lobsters,  mackerel,  mullet,  mussels, 
oysters,  perch,  pike,  plaice,  salmon  (Dutch),  scallops,  shrimps,  skate, 
smelt,  sprats,  soles,  tench,  whiting. 

Meat. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  pork,  doe  venison. 

Poultry. — Capons,  chickens,  ducks,  fowls,  geese,  pigeons,  pullets, 
rabbits,  turkeys. 

Game. — Black  game,  capercailzie  (till  2Oth),  grouse  (till  i8th),  hares, 
partridges,  pheasants,  ptarmigan. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes,  Brussel  sprouts,  broccoli,  cabbages,  carrots, 
celery,  leeks,  parsnips,  salsify,  savoys,  Scotch  kale,  seakale,  spinach, 
tomatoes,  turnip  tops,  watercress. 

Fruit. — Apples,  bananas,  chestnuts,  figs,  filberts,  grapes,  medlars, 
melons,  oranges,  pears,  pines,  plums  (Calif ornian),  pomegranates, 
walnuts. 


INTRODUCTION  TO 
COOKERY 

CHAPTER    VI 

English  and  French  Cookery,  The  Science  and  Progress 
of  Cookery,  Reasons  for  Cooking,  Methods  of 
Cooking,  with  instructions  for  Broiling,  Roasting, 
Baking,  Boiling,  Stewing,  Frying,  Hints  for 
Amateur  Cooks,  The  Preservation,  Adulteration  and 
Prices  of  Food,  Digestive  Time  Table,  Quantities 
and  Measures,  and  Table  of  Equivalents. 


In  the  Fine  Arts  the  progress  of  mankind  is  marked  by  a  gradual  succes- 
sion of  triumphs  over  the  rude  materialities  of  nature.  Plain  or  rudely- 
carved  stones,  tumuli,  or  mounds  of  earth,  are  the  monuments  by  which 
barbarous  tribes  denote  the  events  of  their  history,  to  be  succeeded,  in 
the  long  course  of  a  series  of  ages,  by  beautifully  proportioned  columns, 
gracefully  sculptured  statues,  triumphal  arches,  coins,  medals  and  the 
higher  efforts  of  the  pencil  and  the  pen,  as  man  advances  by  culture 
and  observation  to  the  perfection  of  his  faculties.  So  is  it  with  the  art 
of  cookery.  Man,  in  his  primitive  state,  lived  upon  roots  and  the  fruits  of 
the  earth,  until  by  degrees  he  was  driven  to  seek  for  new  means  by  which 
his  wants  might  be  supplied  and  enlarged.  He  then  became  a  hunter 
and  a  fisher.  As  his  species  increased,  greater  necessities  came  upon 
him,  and  he  gradually  abandoned  the  roving  life  of  the  savage  for  the 
more  stationary  pursuits  of  the  herdsmen.  These  begat  still  more 
settled  habits,  as  the  result  of  which  he  began  the  practice  of  agriculture, 
formed  ideas  of  the  rights  of  property,  and  had  his  own  both  defined 
and  secured.  The  forest,  the  stream  and  the  sea  were  then  no  longer  his 
only  resources  for  food.  He  sowed  and  he  reaped,  pastured  and  bred 
cattle,  lived  on  the  cultivated  produce  of  his  fields,  and  revelled  in 
thr  luxuries  of  the  dairy  ;  raised  flocks  for  clothing,  and  assumed,  to 
all  intents  and  purposes,  the  habits  of  permanent  life  and  the  comfortable 
condition  of  a  farmer.  This  was  the  fourth  stage  of  social  progress,  up  to 


104  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

which  the  useful  or  mechanical  arts  had  been  incidentally  developing 
themselves,  when  trade  and  commerce  began.  Through  these  various 
phases,  ONLY  TO  LIVE  had  been  the  great  object  of  mankind  ;  but  by 
and  by  comforts  were  multiplied,  and  accumulating  riches  created  new 
wants.  The  object,  then,  was  not  only  TO  LIVE,  but  to  live  economically, 
agreeably,  tastefully  and  well.  Accordingly,  the  art  of  cookery  com- 
mences ;  and  although  the  fruits  of  the  earth,  the  fowls  of  the  air, 
the  beasts  of  the  field,  and  the  fish  of  the  sea,  are  still  the  only  food  of 
mankind,  yet  these  are  so  prepared,  improved  and  dressed  by  skill  and 
ingenuity,  that  they  are  the  means  of  immeasurably  extending  the 
boundaries  of  human  enjoyment.  Everything  that  is  edible  and  passes 
under  the  hands  of  the  cook  is  more  or  less  changed,  and  assumes  new 
forms.  Hence  the  immense  influence  of  that  functionary  upon  the 
happiness  of  a  household. 

In  the  luxurious  ages  of  Grecian  antiquity  Sicilian  cooks  were  the 
most  esteemed,  and  received  high  rewards  for  their  services.  Among 
them,  one  called  Trimalcio  was  such  an  adept  in  his  art,  that  he  could 
impart  to  common  fish  both  the  form  and  flavour  of  the  most  esteemed 
of  the  piscatory  tribes.  A  chief  cook  in  the  palmy  days  of  Roman 
extravagance  had  about  £800  a  year,  and  Antony  rewarded  the  one 
who  cooked  the  supper  which  pleased  Cleopatra  with  the  present  of 
a  city.  With  the  fall  of  the  Empire,  the  culinary  art  sank  into  less 
consideration.  In  the  middle  ages  cooks  laboured  to  acquire  a  reputa- 
tion for  their  sauces,  which  they  composed  of  strange  combinations, 
for  the  sake  of  novelty. 

Excellence  in  the  Art  of  Cookery  as  in  all  other  things  is  only  acquired 
by  experience  and  practice.  In  proportion,  therefore,  to  the  oppor- 
tunities which  a  cook  has  had  of  these,  so  will  be  his  excellence  in 
the  art. 


FRENCH  COOKERY. 

English  V.  French  Cookery. — It  is  not  easy  to  treat  separately  English 
and  French  cookery,  because,  in  the  first  place,  by  dint  of  borrowing 
across  the  Channel,  the  two  have  become  inextricably  mixed  up,  as 
is  evidenced  by  our  habitual  use  of  French  terms,  and  by  the  common, 
though  less  constant,  use  of  English  terms  in  French  cookery-books  ; 
and  because,  in  the  second  place  a  good  deal  of  what  is  distinctive  in 
French  cookery  is  founded  on  the  nature  of  things,  and  cannot  be 
transplanted. 

Perhaps  the  difference  is  greatest  in  the  cooking  of  meat.  We  are 
accused  of  eating  meat  raw,  and  we  retort  that  roast  meat  out  of 
England  is  uneatable.  The  damp  climate  and  the  broad  pastures, 
the  turnip  crops  that  flourish  under  our  rainy  skies,  the  graziers  who 
for  many  years  have  worked  to  make  British  cattle  and  British  sheep 
renowned  through  the  world  ;  these  all  have  made  our  cookery  what 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY  105 

it  is.  That  good,  even  excellent  meat  is  to  be  found  out  of  the  British 
isles  none  will  deny  ;  but  the  average  is  infinitely  bettor  in  these  isles 
than  anywhere  on  the  Continent  of  Europe.  The  consequence  is  that 
we  have  acquired  the  habit  of  cooking  meat  so  as  to  bring  out  the  flavour 
and  not  to  disguise  it,  while  in  other  countries  experience  has  taught 
the  cook  to  disguise  it  in  many  a  cunning  way,  The  English  practice 
is  not  invariably  wise,  for  if  there  is  much  good  meat  in  the  market 
there  is  also  much  bad  which  would  be  greatly  improved  by  disguise, 
and  there  are  also  inferior  joints  on  the  best  animal  that  lend  them- 
selves ill  to  the  national  cookery. 

Meat  Consumed  in  Paris. — The  question  has  often  been  asked, 
"  Do  we  eat  more  meat  than  our  neighbours  ?  "  Most  people  would 
answer  the  question  in  the  affirmative  ;  but  comparisons  made 
between  Paris  and  London  by  Dr.  Letherby  seem  to  show  that, 
the  consumption  of  meat  is  greater  in  Paris  than  in  London. 
His  calculations  showed  in  Paris  49  ozs.  per  head  weekly,  or 
7  ozs.  a  day  per  head  of  the  population  ;  the  London  market  returns 
give  3 1 1  ozs.  weekly,  or  4^  ozs.  a  day.  Probably  the  results  would 
be  different  if  the  comparison  were  extended  to  the  country  and 
provincial  towns.  At  any  rate,  London  has  a  much  larger  supply  of 
animal  food  in  the  shape  of  fish. 

Fish  in  England  and  France. — Here,  again,  art  is  the  handmaiden  of 
nature.  The  sea  supplies  us  so  plentifully  that  we  neglect  or  disdain 
fresh-water  fish,  upon  which  our  neighbours  expend  much  skill  and  pains 
in  eookery.  Very  few  English  people  have  eaten  a  carp,  though  our 
lakes  and  ponds  contain  many  ;  yet  in  every  French  cookery-book 
an  to  be  found  recipes  showing  that  carp  is  intended  to  be  served 
at  dinners  of  some  pretension.  Again,  the  facility  with  which 
fish  is  sent  to  any  part  of  our  country  makes  us  less  dependent 
upon  sharp  and  highly-flavoured  sauces.  Carp  and  other  fresh- 
water fish  affecting  muddy  spots,  should  be  caught  alive  and  kept 
for  some  days  in  clear,  running  water,  and  fed  on  a  little  oatmeal 
or  crumbs  of  bread,  in  order  to  get  rid  of  the  earthy  flavour. 

Vegetables  in  England  and  France. — As  for  vegetable  cookery,  in  which 
we  must  confess  ourselves  entirely  beaten,  we  easily  find  a  rea-on 
in  the  custom  of  all  Catholic  countries  to  fast  from  meat  once  a 
week,  which  has  necessitated  the  practice  of  serving  vegetables  in 
some  way  less  wasteful  and  less  objectionable  than  the  English 
methods. 

Fuel.  —The  relative  cost  of  fuel  in  the  two  countries  has  also  had 
much  to  do  in  stereotyping  the  national  cookery.  Coals  have-  been 
cheap  and  plentiful,  and  have  accordingly  luvn  used  with  profusion. 
It  is  only  in  recent  years  that  we  have  begun  to  use  close  stoves  ;  and 
only  a  few  years  ago  all  our  cooking  was  done  over  or  before  the  fire. 
Any  one  reading  a  French  cookery-book  will  be  struck  by  the  sparing 
way  in  which  the  use  of  an  oven  is  prescribed.  In  an  English  book  it  is 
assumed  that  nothing  is  so  easy  as  to  shut  anything  in  the  oven  and 


106          HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

take  it  out  when  it  is  done — and  probably  the  assumption  is  correct. 
If  we  had  to  do  all  our  cooking  with  wood  we  also  should  become  econo- 
mical ;  but  wood,  even  in  England,  does  not  cost  as  much  as  wood 
costs  in  many  countries,  where  coals  for  domestic  use  are  practically 
unknown. 

Count  Rumford's  action  in  the  matter  of  stoves  was  received  with 
some  scorn,  though  he  died  only  in  1814.  It  used  to  be  said  of  him 
that  he  would  cook  his  dinner  by  the  smoke  from  his  neighbour's 
chimney.  The  wasted  fuel  that  escapes  as  smoke  would  cook  not 
one  but  many  dinners. 

It  is  a  truism  to  say  that  France,  pressed  by  circumstances,  has 
accomplished  much  in  the  realm  of  cookery.  France  has  achieved 
the  highest  results  in  luxurious  cookery  ;  and  to  the  thrift  of  her 
peasantry  we  must  look  for  the  beginnings  of  the  French  economy 
in  cookery  that  has  become  almost  proverbial.  Luxury  with  economy 
is  the  highest  praise  in  cookery. 

French  Names. — In  the  present  edition  of  this  book  French  names — 
either  the  accepted  or  the  literal  translation — have  been  added  to 
many  of  the  dishes.  Those  of  distinct  English  origin  remain  as  they 
are.  Our  readers  can  now  write  a  menu  in  either  language. 

THE  SCIENCE  AND  PROGRESS  OF  COOKERY 

Cookery  and  the  Artificial  Preparation  of  Food  has  one  chief  object,  i.e., 
to  assist  in  the  wonderful  series  of  changes  known  as  digestion  and 
assimilation.  A  secondary  aim  is  to  render  certain  foods,  noxious 
in  their  natural  state,  fit  for  human  consumption.  The  potato  and 
manioc  are  poisonous  when  gathered,  but  rendered  harmless  by  the 
cook.  The  object  of  a  journey  may  be  reached  by  many  different, 
and  sometimes  by  apparently  divergent,  roads.  So  it  is  here.  Some 
even  argue  that  the  roads  once  diverging  never  become  parallel. 
They  declare  that  the  art  of  cookery,  as  now  understood,  only  results 
in  the  persistent  overtaxing,  instead  of  lightening  the  labours  of, 
the  digestive  organs.  But  let  us  realize  what  it  would  mean  to  go  back 
to  pre-cooking  days,  when  our  ancestors  not  only  devoured  their  rela- 
tives, but  devoured  them  raw  ;  or  to  place  ourselves  in  some  savage 
tribe  where  cookery  is  in  its  infancy  ;  or  even  return  to  the  coarse 
abundance  of  our  nearer  forefathers  ;  and  all  will  agree  that  the  properly 
trained  cook  is  more  friend  than  foe. 

The  Art  of  Cookery. — Within  the  last  few  years  cookery  has  made  great 
strides  in  a  totally  new  direction.  The  cook  has  turned  philosopher, 
and  loves— '-if  not  the  process  of  reasoning — at  least  to  be  told  other 
people's  "  reasons  why  "  for  the  operations  of  the  kitchen.  Chemistry 
is  a  recent  science,  and  is  now  in  an  active  state  of  growth.  Every  day 
something  is  being  added  to  our  store  of  physiological  knowledge. 
The  science  of  food  cannot  advance  a  step  but  by  the  help  of  one  of 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY  107 

these.  Formerly  the  art  of  cookery  had  little  enough  to  do  with  either, 
and  flourished  long  before  chemistry  and  physiology  in  their  modern 
acceptation  were  known. 

But  we  cannot  accept  the  common  assertion  that  because  cookery 
long  flourished  alone  it  should  be  left  alone  now,  for  the  same  assertion 
might  be  made  respecting  the  application  of  modern  science  to  any 
department  of  human  activity. 

People  lived  and  died  before  the  law  of  gravitation,  or  elementary 
mathematical  truths,  or  the  application  of  steam  to  machinery  were 
discovered,  yet  these  discoveries  have  been  applied  to  practical  indus- 
tries with  immense  benefit  to  mankind.  Science  applied  to  agriculture 
has  enabled  us  to  support  a  larger  population  in  greater  comfort  ; 
science  applied  to  food  and  cookery  will  enable  us  to  do  this  and  more. 
We  can  confidently  look  forward  to  a  time  when  in  the  chemist's  labora- 
tory the  transformation  of  nature's  laboratory  shall  be  imitated  for 
the  feeding  of  our  starving  millions.  That  goal  is  a  very  long  way  off, 
and  we  trace  out  only  the  first  steps  of  the  road  towards  it.  But  as 
we  said  at  the  outset,  good  cookery  must  always  mean  the  successful 
doing  or  easing  in  the  kitchen  of  Nature's  work. 

Everyday  Science. — It  is  interesting  to  the  student  of  human  pr< 
to  watch  for  scientific  discoveries,  as  they  gradually  creep  from  tho 
laboratory  to  the  treatise,  from  the  treatise  to  the  lecture-room,  thence 
to  the  kitchen.     Each  operation  was  once  carried  out  according  to  the 
fancy  of  the  individual  operating.     Experience,  not  only  the  best,  but 
the  only  teacher,  taught.     There  were  a  number  of  isolated  experi- 
ments, some  repeated  or  handed  down  until  they  became  traditions. 
But  there  was  little  or  no  generalization  of  the  facts,  and  thcr* 
arbitrary  declaration  instead  of  reasonable  conviction. 

In  cookery  books  of  a  few  years  ago  the  reader  is  bidden  to  do  a 
thing  at  one  time,  and  leave  it  undone  on  a  precisely  similar  occasion. 
ite  gradations  of  heat,  frimometers,  even  thermometers,  were 
unknown.  Water  boiled  or  simmered,  was  lukewarm  or  cold,  as  if 
the  four  words  comprehended  all  the  variations  of  temperature,  or  at 
any  rate  were  fixed  points  having  magical  effect  upon  every  substance 
used  as  food.  Only  a  few — a  very  few — scientific  facts  have  been  as 
yet  applied  to  everyday  cookery.  The  genealogy  of  each  might  pro- 
bably be  traced  from  the  treatise  to  the  lecture,  thence  to  one  book, 
now  to  all.  It  is  curious  also  to  see  that  there  are  some  processes  in 
cookery  for  which  every  one  now  assigns  a  reason,  while  others,  equally 
common,  every  one  is  content  to  follow  unreasoning.  It  is  safe  to 
assert  that  supporting  or  condemning  all  such  processes  there  is  scientific 
fact,  and  if  every  intelligent  cook  would  try  to  find  out  the  reason  for 
what  is  done,  our  knowledge  would  soon  emerge  from  its  present 
chaotic  condition. 


io8  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

REASONS  FOR  COOKING 

Food  is  prepared  and  cooked  for  six  reasons  :  (i)  To  render 
mastication  easy  ;  (2)  to  facilitate  and  hasten  digestion  ;  (3) 
to  convert  certain  naturally  hurtful  substances  into  nutritious  foods  ; 
(4)  to  eliminate  harmful  foreign  elements  evolved  in  food  (e.g. 
the  tinea  of  tapeworm  in  beef  and  mutton  ;  trichinae  in  pork  ; 
the  ptomaines  resulting  from  tissue  waste)  ;  (5)  to  combine  the  right 
foods  in  proper  proportions  for  the  needs  of  the  body  ;  (6)  to  make 
it  agreeable  to  the  palate  and  pleasing  to  the  eye. 

It  may  be  said  that  the  last  "  reason  "  is  in  flat  contradiction  to 
number  two  ;  that  is  only  apparently  so.  Apart  from  the  purely 
aesthetic  value  of  an  agreeable  meal,  and  a  well-spread  table  (and 
certainly  no  one  will  wish  that  any  pleasure  or  beauty'  should  be 
gratuitously  foregone),  there  remain  many  solid  arguments  for 
reason  number  six.  "  The  eye  does  half  the  eating."  The  street 
boy  who  flattens  his  nose  against  the  pastrycook's  window-pane  while 
his  mouth  waters  at  the  sight  of  the  good  things  within  ;  the  animal 
who,  before  he  is  killed,  is  shown  food,  in  order  that  he  may  produce 
pepsine  ;  the  starving  man  whose  pangs  are  even  sharper  when  he 
smells  some  one  else's  good  dinner  ;  all  are  so  many  witnesses  that  the 
sight  and  smell  of  food  cause  the  digestive  juices  to  flow  more  abun- 
dantly. 

Pleasant  flavours  are  a  necessity  of  diet.  No  man  could  be  nour- 
ished on  tasteless  food,  though  arranged  on  the  most  approved  scientific 
basis.  No  man  can  live  healthily  on  a  monotonous  diet,  though  there  may 
be  nothing  wanting  from  the  point  of  view  of  chemical  analysis.  The 
health  of  the  inmates  of  public  institutions  has  over  and  over  again 
shown  noticeable  improvement  by  reason  of  some  change  in  the  dietary, 
not  implying  greater  expenditure,  nor  greater  nourishment,  nor  even 
alteration  of  constituents.  As  in  all  human  affairs  there  are  facts  to 
be  reckoned  with  that  science  cannot  foretell  or  explain. 

Mastication  acts  mechanically  in  subdividing  food  and  so  exposing 
a  greater  surface  to  the  action  of  the  digestive  juices  with  which  it 
afterwards  comes  in  contact.  It  acts  chemically  by  reason  of  the 
digestive  power  of  saliva  on  starch.  Among  animals  there  are  some 
gramnivora  that  spend  a  large  part  of  their  time  in  chewing  their  food, 
the  flow  of  saliva  being  very  profuse  ;  there  are  others,  chiefly  carni- 
vora,  that  bolt  food  whole,  and  afterwards  digest  at  leisure.  Pre- 
pared food  is  more  or  less  divided,  so  that  to  some  extent  mastication 
is  superseded.  For  the  rest,  in  the  kitchen  starch  is  hydrated,  fibre 
softened  or  made  brittle,  dough  vesiculated,  albumen  coagulated, 
and  indigestible  matter  removed. 

Any  one  may  perceive  how  impossible  it  would  be  to  masticate  a 
mouthful  of  flour,  and  how  raw  meat  would  clog  the  teeth.  Hurrying 
over  our  meals,  as  we  do,  we  should  fare  badly  if  all  the  grinding  and 
subdividing  of  human  food  had  to  be  accomplished  by  human  teeth. 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY  109 

Action  of  Heat. — The  most    important  results  of  cookery  are    < 
ascribed  to  the  action  of  heat  upon  the  various  constituents  ot   tun- 
Many  foods  that  we  now  cat  would  become  use-less  t<>  m.mkmd 
if  we  had  to  eat  them  raw.     Cooking  may  not  always  alter  th.«  chcmie.il 
constitution  of  a  food,  but  even  then  it  may  entirely  change  it 
tie \il  value  to  mankind.     As  a  matter  of  fact,  however,  heat  does  alter 
the  chemical  nature  of  a  great  many  foods  to  a  consi<!  Uent. 

Still,  even  if  the  change  may  be  nothing  that  chemical  analysis  can 
detect,  yet  it  is  perceptible  to  every  one  who  eats  a  dinner. 

There  is  no  greater  mistake  than  to  suppose  that  the  chemical 
analysis  of  a  food  tells  us  its  value.  Flesh  and  bones,  and  fat  and  heat 
can  be,  by  some  warm-blooded  animals,  obtained  from  a  diet  of  grass 
or  woody  fibre,  but  we  should  starve  in  the  midst  of  such  plenty. 

Many  of  the  changes  wrought  by  heat  arc  easily  explained.  \Vln-t h«-r 
albumen  is  barely  coagulated  or  is  hard  and  horny,  whether  iibre  is 
shrivelled  or  swelled,  whether  gelatine  is  dry  and  brittle  or  dissolved 
it  does  not  take  a  scientific  head  to  discover.  But  science  tells  us  wl-y 
these  things  are,  and  so  enables  us  to  bring  our  food  readily  into  what- 
ever state  we  will. 

Given  certain  food,  one  cook  so  manipulates  it  that  the  consumer  is 
well  nourished  and  pleased  ;  another  cook  leaves  him  hungry  and 
discontented. 

Combination  of  Foods. — In  preparing  food  we  must   rcmcmbei 
:nbinc  all  necessary  foods  in  a  right  proportion.     Some  fo<n: 
deficient   in   one   n  -me   superabundant   in    another  :     a    little 

addition  here  and  there  helps  digestion  and  supplies  the-  body  with  wh.it 
it  m-<-ds.  All  cooks  do  this  in  obedience  to  the  natural  promptm-  9 
of  the  appetite.  To  rice,  rich  in  starch,  they  add  butter  ai 
with  peas,  they  serve  fat  bacon  ;  salt-fish  has  less  nourishment  than 
nice  ;  beef  steak  is  balanced  by  boiled  potatoes.  Hut  the 
customs  of  the  kitchen  often  err,  and  we  have  much  to  learn  that 
our  artificially  stimulated  appetites  fail  to  teach. 

Not  only  is  the  deficient  supplied,  but  the  indk 

Bran  from  flour,  paring  from  potatoes,  cellulose  from  vegetables  go 
to  feed  animals  whose  digestions  are  stronger  than  ours,  and  who 
utilise  our  discarded  food  to  produce  other  in  a  form  more  fitted  to 
our  powers. 

Another  service   that  cookery  does  is  to  economize  our  food    by 

:ig  it.     Part  of  what  we  eat  is  used  as  fuel  or  heat-giving  food — 

is  burnt  or  oxidized,  to  keep  the  heat  of  the  body  at  a  certain  point. 

Wherever  we  live  and  whatever  we  do,  as  long  as  we  are  in  health  our 

body  temperature  is  always  98°  Fahr.  neither  more  nor  less.     \\hen 

ke  cold  food  some  of  the  heat  of  the  body  has  to  be  used  to  lu  at 

the  same  reason  that  when  we  put  fresh  coals  on  the  fire-  the. 

raturc  of  the  room  is  lowered  for  a  time.      So  we  take  our 

warm  and  use  coals  to  do  what  our  food  must  otherwise  do.     There 


no  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

are  burners  that  give  a  very  brilliant  light  with  little  gas,  because  the 
spare  heat  of  the  flame  is  used  to  heat  the  gas  that  is  presently  to  be 
burnt.  We  warm  our  food  on  precisely  the  same  principle.  Very  hot 
food  is  always  unwholesome,  but  warm  food  always  goes  further  and 
is  more  nourishing  than  cold. 

Amount  of  Food.  —  A  day's  ration  for  a  healthy  man  of  average  size, 
doing  moderate  work,  has  been  reckoned  as  follows  :  — 

Oz.  AVOIRDUPOIS. 

1.  Water     .      .  >  .'    v     .      .      .  4i 

2.  Albuminoids      .....  3 

3.  Fats,  starch,  sugar,  etc.         .  14 

4.  Salts        .......        i 


For  a  woman,  also  working,  the  rations  may  be  somewhat  smaller, 
the  proportions  being  the  same,  but  the  total  about  3  oz.  less. 

This  seems  a  small  allowance,  but  when  we  remember  that  it  is 
reckoned  as  dry  food,  and  that  food  as  we  get  it  is  always  moist,  gener- 
ally containing  half  or  rather  more  than  half  its  weight  of  water,  it 
appears  that  the  food  altogether  should  weigh  about  40  ozs. 

The  quantity  required  varies,  however,  very  much  within  the  limits 
of  health.  Every  man  requires  more  food  if  he  works  hard,  and  less 
if  he  has  no  work  to  do.  Even  doing  the  same  work  no  two  men  will 
eat  exactly  the  same,  and  it  is  only  possible  to  calculate  by  taking  an 
average  of  a  large  number  of  eaters.  Generally  speaking,  more  food 
is  required  in  cold  weather  and  cold  climates  than  in  hot.  But  it  is 
necessary  that  all  these  four  classes  of  elements  should  be  represented 
in  our  daily  food,  and  in  something  like  the  above  proportion.  If  we 
have  too  little  of  any  one  class  we  are  sure  to  be  ill,  and  if  one  class 
were  to  be  quite  left  out  we  should  die,  even  though  we  have  plenty 
of  other  foods. 

As  to  the  water,  there  is  not  much  to  be  said  in  addition  to  the 
remarks  in  the  chapter  on  Beverages.  By  whatever  name  we  call  our 
beverages,  the  chief  constituent  of  them  is  water,  and  were  we  given  but 
one  food  we  could  exist  longer  on  water  alone  than  upon  any  other, 
except  milk.  In  every  food,  even  when  artificially  dried,  there  is  a 
percentage  of  water,  and  taking  foods  one  with  another  there  is  about 
half  water.  But  the  amount  varies  ;  in  lettuce,  96  per  cent,  is  water  ; 
in  onions,  91  ;  in  lean  meat,  75  ;  in  wheat,  14.  Artificially  dried 
substances  are  ready  to  take  up  water  from  the  atmosphere,  a  fact  of 
practical  interest  to  the  housewife,  who  will  remember  that  oatmeal, 
maize-meal,  biscuits,  and  the  like,  soon  become  flabby  and  moist 
if  they  are  left  in  the  open  air.  It  is  generally  agreed  that  animals 
thrive  better  on  moist  food  than  on  dry  food  with  water. 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY  in 

Carbonates  and  Salts  include  chloride  of  sodium,  or  common  salt, 
as  well  as  potash,  phosphates  of  lime,  and  iron.  Common  salt  is  a  neces- 
sary food,  but  the  fact  is  that  many  persons  now-a-days  get  too  much 
of  it  in  the  form  of  salt  fish  and  flesh.  It  is  the  only  mineral  habitually 
added  to  food  as  such.  Potash  salts  we  find  in  all  fresh  fruits  and 
vegetables.  Probably  no  defect  in  diet  is  more  common  than  a  want 
of  these,  especially  in  our  large  towns.  Lime  is  necessary  for  the 
building  up  of  bones  and  teeth.  We  look  for  it  in  milk  for  the  young, 
and  in  whole  grains,  and  we  know  that  it  has  been  missing  when  \ve 
see  weak  and  distorted  limbs  and  broken  teeth.  Iron  is  generally 
thought  of  as  a  physic  and  not  as  a  food.  It  is,  however,  a  necessary 
constituent  of  the  blood,  and  is  chiefly  derived  in  an  organized  form 
from  fresh  vegetables.  It  is  also  largely  present  in  many  natural 
tonic  waters. 

Starch  or  floury  Foods  are  the  cheapest  and  most  abundant  of  all, 
so  that  if  people  have  enough  of  any  food  they  are  likely  to  have  enough 
of  these.  Over-fed  persons  are  an  exception  to  this  rule,  for  too  small 
a  proportion  of  their  diet  is  starchy.  Bread,  potatoes,  rice,  barley 
and  all  the  floury  foods  contain  more  starch  than  anything  else,  and 
cornflour,  arrowroot,  sago  and  tapioca  are  nearly  pure  starches.  There 
is  much  starch  too  in  beans,  peas  and  lentils,  though  they  are  generally 
spoken  of  as  albuminoids,  or  flesh-forming  foods,  because  of  the  vi-ry 
large  amount  of  legumin  that  they  contain.  There  is  no  starch  in  milk, 
but  there  is  sugar,  which  replaces  it.  An  infant  can  make  no  use  of 
starchy  food,  having  no  power  to  digest  it.  Heated  to  200°  or  400° 
starch  becomes  dextrine,  known  too  as  "  British  Gum."  The  crust  of 
a  loaf,  biscuits  and  baked  flour  all  show  dextrine. 

Sugar  and  treacle  are  good  foods  and  substitutes  for  starch.  They  are, 
however,  apt  to  produce  acidity  in  grown-up  persons  if  used  too  freely, 
though  children  can  and  do  eat  large  quantities  without  inconvenience. 

The  fats,  starches  and  sugars  are  called  heat-producers,  because 
they  are  oxidized  or  burnt  in  the  body  to  keep  up  the  temperature 
to  its  proper  degree.  From  the  starches  and  sugars  fat  is  deposited, 
if  more  is  consumed  than  is  required  to  maintain  the  heat  of  the  body  ; 
therefore,  the  way  to  get  thin  is  to  eat  li'ttle  or  none  of  these,  or,  better 
still,  to  take  plenty  of  exercise  and  let  them  become  completely  oxidized. 

Fat.— Fat,  whether  it  is  in  the  form  of  butter,  cream,  dripping,  meat, 
bacon,  oil,  or  by  any  other  name,  is  necessary  for  food,  and  many  are 
the  persons  that  suffer  in  health  from  want  of  it,  especially  among  the 
poor,  who  cannot  afford  the  dearer  fats,  or  do  not  know  the  cheaper, 
and  among  the  sickly,  who  cannot — or  fancy  they  cannot — digest  fat  in 
any  form.  If  it  can  be  digested  one  fat  is  as  good  a  food  as  another. 
Cod- liver  oil  and  cream  are  the  easiest  to  digest.  Fats  that  are 
greatly  heated  decompose,  and  are  always  difficult  of  digestion,  which 
is  thr  reason  why  fried  food  often  disagrees.  Many  persons,  who 
cannot  eat  a  lump  of  fat  with  meat  hot  or  cold,  can  eat  buttered  toast, 


112  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

suet  pudding,  or  lightly  fried  bacon,  or  fat  in  one  of  the  many  forms 
in  which  it  is  served. 

Fat  and  starch  can  replace  one  another  to  some  extent,  but  there 
must  be  some  fat,  and  it  is  better  in  this  climate  to  have  some  starchy 
or  floury  foods.  In  the  coldest  countries  plants  will  not  grow,  and  so 
starch  is  unknown. 

Albuminoids  is  a  term  that  covers  albumen  and  the  food  substances 
which  serve  the  same  purpose  as  albumen.  Sometimes  they  are 
spoken  of  as  flesh  formers,  or  as  nitrogenous  foods,  because  they  all 
contain  nitrogen,  and  neither  fats,  starches,  nor  sugars  do.  Nothing 
that  lives  and  grows  is  without  nitrogen,  and  so  we  find  it  in  large  or 
small  amounts  in  all  plants  as  well  as  all  animals.  Our  supplies  of 
albuminoids,  or  flesh-formers,  are  obtained  from  lean  meat,  fish, 
poultry,  game,  as  milk  curd  or  cheese,  eggs,  gluten  in  flour,  fibrine  in 
oats,  and  in  beans,  peas  and  lentils.  Albumen  is  found  in  many  other 
foods  besides  eggs.  The  blood  of  many  animals  contains  it,  and  we  have 
presently  to  speak  of  albumen  in  meat.  In  most  vegetable  juices  and 
in  many  seeds  and  nuts  we  find  it  also. 

Fibrine  is  also  both  animal  and  vegetable.  From  meat,  wheat 
and  other  corn  grains  we  obtain  our  daily  supply.  Casein  is 
an  albumenoid  that  we  find  in  the  curd  of  milk,  and  in  the  pulses, 
beans,  peas  and  lentils.  Vegetable  casein  is  sometimes  called  legumin, 
but  it  was  given  that  name  before  it  was  known  to  be  practically  the 
same  as  animal  casein  of  milk.  In  China  cheese  is  made  of  curdled 
vegetable  casein.  Gelatine  and  some  substances  nearly  like  it  are 
known  as  gelatinoids,  and  they  can  replace  albumen  in  part,  though 
not  altogether. 

METHODS  OF  COOKERY 

Six  Methods  of  Cookery  are  commonly  spoken  of,  viz.  i.  Broiling; 
2.  Roasting;  3.  Baking;  4.  Boiling;  5.  Stewing;  6.  Frying. 

BROILING 

Rules  for  Broiling  Meat. — The  rules  for  broiling  remain  the  same 
always.  A  hot  fire  at  first,  with  a  hot  gridiron  well  greased.  Fre- 
quent turning.  No  holes  made  in  the  surface,  nor  cuts  to  see  if  the 
meat  is  cooked. 

The  meat  must  be  turned  frequently  so  that  it  may  be  heated  and 
the  albumen  may  coagulate  all  over  and  not  merely  on  one  side.  Tonj 
are  sold  to  turn  it  over  with,  because  they  cannot  be  used  to  stick  intc 
the  meat  and  make  holes  for  the  juice  to  run  out,  but  a  knife  or  spool 
or  a  fork  run  into  the  fat  answers  just  as  well  in  the  hands  of  a  cool 
who  knows  the  reason  why  a  blunt  instrument  is  recommended.  Soi 
few  broiled  things  should  not  be  turned  :  a  mushroom,  for  instance, 
is  broiled  stalk  upwards.  The  inside  of  a  split  fish  should  first  go  to 
the  fire,  and  afterwards  the  skin.  Paper  is  wrapped  round  salmon 
and  other  fresh- water  fish. 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY  11;, 

It  is  not  an  economical  way  of  cooking,  for  though  quickly  done  it  takes 
a  great  deal  of  fuel  to  make  a  good  broiling  fire.  The  meat  loses  weight 
more  than  in  most  ways  of  cooking.  And  it  is  only  suited  for  tender, 
juicy  meat  from  the  best  joints. 

ROASTING 

This  is  the  favourite  national  method  of  cookery.  The  immense 
stone  hearths  on  which  huge  logs  flared  up  an  open  chimney  were  just 
adapted  for  this  style  of  cookery,  and  the  open  coal  fires  in  almost 
general  use  until  the  middle  of  the  iQth  century  were  almost  as 
prodigal  of  fuel.  To  roast  before  the  fire  could  have  become  a 
national  custom  only  where  fuel  was  cheap.  We  now  roast  in  the 
oven  more  often  than  before  the  fire,  but  even  so  it  is  not  an  economical 
way  of  cooking,  because  of  the  much  greater  amount  of  fuel  necc 
to  heat  the  oven  than  to  boil  a  saucepan.  The  waste  in  roasting 
is  also  great,  from  a  third  to  a  quarter  of  the  total  weight  of  a 
joint  is  lost  in  the  process;  only  a  small  part  of  the  loss  being 
recoverable  in  gravy  or  dripping.  Furthermore,  it  is  a  method  <>nlv 
suited  to  the  tender  parts  of  meat,  and  does  not  answer  at  all  for 
sinewy  and  gelatinous  meat  which  is  the  least  expensive.  A; 
this  has  to  be  set  the  fact  that  roast  meat  is  agreeable  to 
most  persons'  taste,  and  is  generally  considered  digestible.  As 
in  broiling,  the  object  is  to  harden  the  surface  albumen 
and  so  to  imprison  the  juices  of  the  meat.  This  can  only  be  done 
by  making  it  very  hot  for  a  short  time  :  the  heat  must  afterwards 
!><•  lessened  by  drawing  the  joint  from  the  fire,  or  by  cooling  the  mm. 
Tin-  larger  the  joint  the  smaller  the  fire,  lest  it  should  In-  burnt  ouNide 
betme  it  is  cooked  enough,  but  it  should  always  be  hot  FIRST,  and 
cool  afterwards.  In  a  perfectly  roasted  joint,  the  outside  albumen 
should  be  thoroughly  hardened,  but  inside  it  should  only  reach  the 
moderate  heat  that  just  coagulates  the  albumen  and  swells  and  softens 
the  fibrine  ;  cooked  more  than  this,  the  fibre  becomes  hard,  and  separ- 
ates into  bundles  that  offer  an  active  resistance  to  teeth  and  dig< 
organs.  It  can  scarcely  happen  to  a  large  joint,  but  often  does  to  a 
small  one,  and  this  is  the  reason  why  a  small  joint  is  often  dry  and 
hard.  It  is  a  sign  of  good  meat  and  of  good  roasting  to  lose  little  in 
weight.  Generally  speaking,  the  loss  is  more  before  the  fire  than  in  the 
oven. 

Count  Rumford  invented  a  double    dripping-pan   that   cannot  be 

too  strongly  recommended.     The  water  in  the  under  pan  boils  and 

prevents  the  fat  in  the  upper  pan  from  becoming  hotter  than  boil- 

ler,  so  that  the  dripping  is  neither  wasted  nor  burnt,  and  there 

is  no  horrible  odour  of  fat  burning  on  the  floor  of  the  oven.      I 

;ig  pans  arc-  among  the  few  cooking  uU  nsils  that  economize  their 
own  cost   in  a  very  short    time. 


ii4  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

BAKING 

Baking  naturally  comes  next  to  roasting  ;  the  two  often  do  duty 
for  one  another.  As  in  all  other  methods  of  cookery  the  surrounding 
air  may  be  many  degrees  hotter  than  boiling  water,  but  the  food  is 
not  appreciably  hotter  until  it  has  lost  water  by  evaporation,  after 
which  it  may  readily  burn.  The  hot  air  of  the  oven  is  greedy  of  water, 
and  evaporation  is  great,  so  that  ordinary  baking  (i.e.,  just  to  shut 
the  food  into  a  hot-air  chamber)  is  not  suited  for  anything  that  needs 
moist  heat.  But  baking  often  means  to  put  some  dry  substance  in  a 
dish  with  water  and  to  shut  it  in  the  air  chamber,  and  under  such  cir- 
cumstances it  amounts  to  much  the  same  as  boiling  with  surface  heat 
added. 

To  test  the  heat  of  an  oven  special  thermometers  are  made.  For 
meat  the  temperature  should  be  about  300°  Fahr.;  for  bread  360°, 
afterwards  lowered  ;  for  pastry  about  the  same,  the  richest  pastry 
requiring  the  hottest  oven.  The  heat  may  be  tested  with  a  sheet  of 
writing  paper,  which  curls  up  brown  in  a  pastry  oven,  or  with  flour, 
which  takes  every  shade  from  coffee  colour  to  black,  when  sprinkled 
on  the  floor  of  the  oven.  Experienced  cooks  test  very  accurately 
with  the  hand. 

The  hot  air  of  the  oven  sometimes  imparts  disagreeable  flavours 
to  the  things  cooked  ;  but  this  can  be  avoided  by  keeping  the  oven 
scrupulously  clean  and  having  it  well  ventilated. 


BOILING 

Boiling  is  generally  thought  to  be  the  easiest  method  of  cooking. 
Certainly  nothing  could  be  less  troublesome  than  the  simple  process 
boiling  or  stewing  meat,  and  yet  beef  tough  and  flavourless,  or  a  1( 
of  mutton  boiled  to  rags  is  the  rule  rather  than  the  exception, 
success  of  this  culinary  method  depends  entirely  upon  the  liquid 
which  the  material  is  immersed  or  partially  immersed  being  kept  at 
suitable  temperature. 

The  temperature  of  boiling  water  at  sea-level  is  212°  Fahr.  and 
Cent.     In    a    mine,  where  the  level  is  considerably  lower  than  th; 
of  the  sea,  the  water  reaches  a  higher  temperature  before  boilii 
because  the  air  being  more  dense  offers  greater  resistance  to  it  ;   coi 
sequently  the  water  must  acquire  more  heat  and  force  to  overcoi 
this  resistance  before  it  can  boil.     Conversely,  as  we  ascend  a  mounts 
we  leave  behind  the  more  dense  part  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  colui 
of  air,  reaching  from  the  earth  into  space,  becomes  less  in  height, 
so  exerts  less  pressure  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  which  consequenl 
boils  at  a  lower  temperature.     But,  whether  the  water  boils  gentl] 
or  is  in  a  state  of  violent  ebullition  the  temperature  remains  the  same 
and   anything  immersed  in  the  water  will   cook  at  an   equal   ra1 
although  there  will  be  a  wide  difference  between  the  tender  juicy  joii 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY  115 

cooked  at  simmering  point  and  the  tough  stringy  meat  that  has  been 
quickly  boiled.  Count  Rumford,  writing  on  this  subject,  said  : — 

"  Causing  anything  to  boil  violently  in  any  culinary  process  is  very 
ill-judged  ;  for  not  only  does  it  not  expedite  in  the  smallest  degree  the 
process  of  cooking,  but  it  occasions  a  most  enormous  waste  of  fuel, 
and  by  driving  away  with  the  steam  many  of  the  more  volatile  and 
more  savoury  particles  of  the  ingredients  renders  the  victuals  less  good 
and  less  palatable.  Five  times  as  much  heat  is  required  to  send  off 
in  steam  any  given  quantity  of  water  already  boiling  hot  as  would  be 
necessary  to  heat  the  same  quantity  of  the  cold  water  to  the  boiling 
point." 

In  order  to  find  out  the  right  heat,  we  must  first  know  which  of  several 
substances  we  have  to  deal  with,  and  how  each  one  of  them  is  acted 
upon  by  heat. 

The  simplest  thing  to  boil  is  an  egg.  The  white  is  little  more  than 
albumen  and  water  ;  the  yolk  contains  albumen  and  water  with  some 
oil  and  some  sulphur,  but  the  albumen  is  of  a  rather  different  character. 

We  have  seen  that  albumen  begins  to  coagulate  at  145°,  sets  into  a 
jelly  at  1 60°,  and  at  a  higher  temperature  quickly  becomes  tough  and 
hard.  Eggs  should  therefore  be  gently  boiled.  Some  recommend 
the  plan  of  putting  the  egg  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  taking 
the  pan  off  the  fire  and  letting  it  cook  so.  Others  prefer  to  put  the 
egg  in  cold  water  and  to  take  it  off  directly  it  boils. 

In  boiling  lean  meat  we  must  deal  with  albumen  again.  Just  as 
the  white  of  an  egg  hardens  by  boiling,  so  does  the  albumen  in  a  leg  of 
mutton.  Plunge  it  into  boiling  water,  and  on  the  surface  an  imper- 
vious crust  is  formed  that  prevents  the  juices  of  the  meat  from  escaping. 
Once  that  is  done,  the  boiling  should  cease,  for  the  toughening  of  the 
albumen  throughout  the  joint  is  as  undesirable  as  the  escape  of  the 
juices.  Boiled  meat  intended  for  table  should  never  be  put  into  cold 
water :  firstly,  because  the  surface  albumen  is  dissolved,  and  afterwards, 
v,  h  a  the  water  boils,  hardens  and  rises  as  scum  ;  also,  secondly,  because 
the  salts  and  extractives  are  dissolved,  leaving  the  meat  dry  and  flavour- 
less. Cold  water  first  and  fast  boiling  afterwards  (the  common  way  of 
cooking)  is  the  worst  possible  way,  for  the  meat  is  not  only  dry,  but 
hard.  If  the  meat  is  to  be  boiled  for  soup  the  object  is  to  extract  all 
the  j  uice,  the  soluble  albumen,  and  as  much  gelatine  as  may  be,  so  that 
it  should  be  cut  up  to  multiply  surfaces,  put  into  cold  water,  and  heated 
slowly  to  boiling  point.  To  attain  contrary  ends,  contrary  means  must 
be  used. 

The  exceptions  to  this  rule,  if  any,  for  boiling  meat  are  in  the  case  of 
sinewy  and  tcndonous  meat  where  gelatine  is  abundant.  To  make  it 
soft  and  eatable  long  continued  boiling  is  necessary.  Calf's  head  and 
veal  tendons,  cow  heel,  and  tripe  are  often  put  into  cold  water. 

Flour  Foods,  such  as  macaroni,  rice,  sago,  cornflour  and  flour  puddings 
kept  all  the  time  in  boiling  water,  in  order  to  burst  the  starch 


n6  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

granules.  The  mechanical  action  of  fast  bubbling  water  is  often 
useful,  partly  in  preventing  grains  of  rice,  etc.,  from  settling  to  the 
bottom  of  the  saucepan. 

Bailed  Fish. — In  the  case  of  fish,  the  water  should  be  kept  below 
bubbling  point,  otherwise  it  may  crack  the  skin  and  so  spoil  the 
appearance  of  the  fish ;  and,  on  the  other  hand,  if  the  fish  is  put  into 
cold  water,  it,  like  meat,  has  much  of  its  goodness  and  flavour  ex- 
tracted. So  a  compromise  has  to  be  made  here,  and  the  best  plan  is 
to  put  it  into  water  as  hot  as  the  skin  will  bear  (which  varies  with 
each  fish),  and  to  put  salt  with  the  water,  or  lemon-juice,  or  vinegar, 
because  albumen  sooner  coagulates  if  acid  }s  added  to  it.  Vinegar 
with  a  poached  egg  answers  the  same  purpo'se.  Vegetables,  with  few 
exceptions,  should  be  pot  into  boiling  water. 

STEWING 

Stewing  almost  invariably  requires  a  heat  much  below  that  of  boiling 
water  :  165°  is  about  stewing  point.  Whatever  is  stewed,  parts  with 
much  of  its  goodness  to  the  surrounding  liquor,  which  should  not, 
therefore,  be  wasted.  Less  liquid  is  used  than  in  boiling.  It  is  a 
method  particularly  suitable  for  all  gelatinous  meat,  such  as  knuckles, 
heads  and  feet,  and  for  all  tough,  fibrous  meat,  because  long-continued, 
moderate  heat,  with  moisture,  is  the  best  way  of  bringing  gelatine  and 
tough  fibre  into  an  eatable  condition.  It  is  the  cheapest  method  of 
cooking  for  several  reasons.  Little  heat  is  required,  therefore  little 
fuel  used.  Nothing  is  wasted  ;  whatever  goes  into  the  pot  comes  out. 
The  cheapest  and  coarsest  meat  can  be  used ;  and  very  little  attention 
is  needed  while  cooking.  In  order  that  all  the  juices  may  not  be  ex- 
tracted from  the  meat  it  is  sometimes  fried  before  stewing  ;  this  gives 
it  a  good  colour,  and  also  hardens  the  surface  albumen  and  prevents 
the  soluble  matters  from  escaping.  A  stew  should  not  bubble  and 
boil  ;  it  should  stand  by  the  side  of  the  stove,  and  should  never  do 
more  than  bubble  occasionally  and  leisurely  at  one  side  of  a  large  pan. 
A  jar  well  tied  down  and  set  in  a  cool  oven  makes  a  capital  stewing 
utensil,  or  a  jar  set  in  a  saucepan  and  surrounded  by  boiling  water. 

One  difficulty  is  that  carrots  and  turnips  when  they  are  old  and  tough 
ought  to  be  boiled,  and  so  do  not  agree  with  a  small  piece  of  stewed 
meat.  Cooked  together,  one  must  be  spoiled.  It  is  the  best  plan  to 
boil  the  vegetables  first,  and  then  to  use  them  and  their  liquor  for  the 
stew. 

A  common  mistake  is  to  put  in  too  much  liquid.  The  raw  meat 
supplies  some  liquid  by  its  own  juices  and  many  do  not  sufficiently 
realize  that  at  the  moderate  heat  of  stewing  there  is  very  little  waste 
by  evaporation. 

FRYING 

Frying  has  been  described  as  boiling  in  fat.  It  is  not  a  correct  phrase, 
because  the  fat  is  not  boiled,  and  the  thing  fried  is  not  always  immersed 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY  117 

in  fat.  It  is  the  quickest  mode  of  cooking,  because  melted  fat  or  oil 
can  be  brought  to  a  high  temperature,  and,  by  contact  with  it,  the 
food  fried  is  very  quickly  and  very  much  heated.  All  fried  food  is 
heated  beyond  boiling  water  point  on  its  surface  ;  if  the  frying  is 
prolonged  the  meat  is  over  heated  throughout,  so  that  this  method 
is  not  fitted  for  food  that  should  be  slowly  cooked  at  a  low  temper- 
ature, such  as  tough  meat. 

The  point  to  which  fats  or  oils  may  be  heated  varies,  some  burning 
much  more  readily  than  others.  About  350°  to  400°  is  a  suitable 
temperature  ;  it  can  be  higher,  it  should  sometimes  be  lower  for  things 
that  need  slow  cooking,  but  it  is  usually  better  to  begin  at  a  high 
temperature  and  lower  it  afterwards.  The  temperature  is  always 
lowered,  by  putting  in  the  cold  things  to  be  cooked,  to  a  degree  that  is 
determined  by  the  relative  quantity  of  fat  and  food,  and  by  the  sort 
of  food. 

The  temperature  can  be  taken  accurately  with  a  thermometer  con- 
structed specially  for  the  purpose  ;  it  can  be  taken  approximately  by 
several  homely  devices. 

1.  Drop  in  a  few  drops  of  water.     If  the  fat  bubbles  thereupon,  it 
must  be  hotter  than  212°  ;    if  it  bubbles  smartly  it  may  be  taken  at 
over  300°. 

2.  Drop  in  a  piece  of  bread  and  take  it  out  at  the  end  of  half  a  minute. 
If  the  bread  is  crisp  the  fat  is  about  350°  or  more. 

3.  Parsley  that  becomes  crisp  immediately  it  is  dropped  in  mean 
at  350°  or  more. 

4.  The  more  violent  the  bubbling  when  anything  is  put  in  the  hotter 
the  fat. 

5.  A  thin,  filmy,  blue  smoke  rises  when  the  fat  is  fit  for  frying.  .m<l 
then  becomes  thicker  until  the  fat  is  burning,  when  there  is  a  4ett0t 
cloud. 

6.  Fat,  unless  it  has  left  off  bubbling  and  is  quite  still,  is  never  hot 
enough  to  fry. 

These  rules  are  true  of  all  fat,  and  more  or  less  of  all  frying.  But 
there  are  two  ways  of  frying,  known  to  cooks  as  DRY  FRYING,  and  frying 
in  deep  fat ;  the  later  method  being  also  known  as  '•  French  frying." 
The  former  is  more  common  ;  the  latter  is  more  economical,  and 
produces  better  results. 

Deep  frying  or  frying  in  a  saucepan,  means  that  there  must  be  fat 
enough  to  cover  what  is  fried,  and  a  pan  deep  enough  to  contain  it. 
It  is  economical,  for  the  fat  can  be  used  over  and  over  again,  and,  if 
sufficiently  hot,  does  not  soak  into  the  food  fried,  which  consequently 
comes  out  quite  dry  and  without  any  of  the  greasy  moisture  of  frying- 
pan  cookery.  In  the  long  run  less  fat  is  used  than  for  ordinary  dry 
frying;  though,  of  course,  there  is  a  greater  outlay  to  begin  with. 

An  iron  or  steel  saucepan  must  be  used,  as  the  heat  of  the  fat  melts 
the  solder  of  a  tin  pan  ;  it  is  a  good  plan  to  keep  one  for  the  purpose. 


n8  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Frying  baskets  should  be  used  for  all  delicate  frying  (see  p.  302) 
so  as  to  do  away  with  the  need  for  much  handling,  and  to  lift  all  the 
things  out  at  the  same  moment.  Failing  a  basket,  an  iron  spoon  or 
slice  may  be  used,  but  not  of  tin  or  Britannia  metal,  as  they  would 
melt.  Baskets  should  not  be  used  for  fritters,  which  stick  to  the  wires. 
As  the  basket  always  expands  with  heat,  it  should  not  be  a  very  tight 
fit  for  the  pan. 

Dry  Frying  is  so  called  because  of  the  small  amount  of  fat  used,  not 
because  of  the  dryness  of  what  is  fried,  for  things  fried  this  way  are 
very  apt  to  be  greasy.  Sometimes  the  frying  is  so  "  dry  "  that  only 
just  fat  enough  is  used  to  prevent  the  meat  from  sticking  to  the  pan, 
just  as  the  bars  of  a  gridiron  are  greased.  The  iron  pan  is  heated, 
and  the  meat  is  cooked  by  heat  directly  communicated  from  the  hot 
iron.  Such  frying,  in  fact,  is  an  imitation  of  broiling,  and  usually  an 
unsuccessful  imitation.  There  should  always  be  at  least  enough  fat 
to  cover  the  surface  of  the  pan,  and  it  always  should  be  made  as  hot 
as  possible  without  burning,  before  beginning  to  fry.  To  put  cold  fat 
and  cold  pan  and  cold  chop  on  the  stove  and  let  them  all  heat  together 
is  always  a  mistake  sure  to  result  in  a  greasy,  juiceless  chop  with  burnt 
fat.  WHATEVER  AND  HOWEVER  YOU  FRY,  FIRST  HEAT  THE  FAT. 

Fat  for  Frying. — Melted  suet  or  fat  can  be  used  for  French  frying, 
and  mutton  is  less  likely  to  burn  than  beef,  but  either  or  both  together 
will  do.  Lard  should  never  be  used,  for  it  always  leaves  an  unpleasant 
flavour  and  costs  more  than  beef  or  mutton  fat.  Oil  is  to  be  preferred 
to,  and  can,  without  burning,  be  made  hotter  than  any  fat.  Olive 
oil  is  often  recommended,  but  it  is  costly,  and  much  of  the  oil  sold  as 
olive  is  largely  adulterated  with  cotton-seed  oil,  which  is  far  cheaper 
than  any  fat  used  as  food.  Unfortunately,  though  a  great  deal  is  sold, 
not  much  is  sold  under  its  right  name  or  at  a  fair  price,  except  to 
cookshops  or  to  the  vendors  of  fried  fish.  Many  specially  prepared 
fats  are  now  on  the  market ;  they  vary  greatly.  Some  are  merely 
beef  fat,  freed  from  skin  and  blood,  and  melted  into  cakes  ;  these  can 
be  used  like  suet.  Others  are  solidified  cotton  seed  oil,  purified  nut  oil, 
etc.  These  are  sold  plain  or  as  blends.  Some  of  them  are  excellent 
for  frying  purposes,  and  are  economical  where  much  frying  is  required. 
Animal  fats,  with  the  exception  of  refined  lard,  burn  quicker  than 
vegetable  fats.  Butter  is  the  soonest  spoilt  by  high  temperatures. 

To  clarify  fat  or  suet  for  frying,  it  should  be  cut  up  into  small  pieces, 
put  into  a  saucepan  with  just  enough  water  to  prevent  burning, 
heated  over  a  slow  fire  until  the  liquid  fat  is  quite  clear  and  then 
strained.  The  pieces  strained  out  are  an  economical  substitute  for 
suet  for  short  cakes,  puddings,  etc.  After  using  several  times,  the 
fat  can  be  purified  by  pouring  it  whilst  hot  into  a  pan  of  water  and 
well  stirring  ;  the  pieces  and  impurities  settle  at  the  bottom  of  the 
cake  of  fat  or  sink  into  the  water.  The  fat  should  be  also  occasion- 
ally strained  when  cool  ;  if  it  be  strained  directly  after  frying  it  will 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY  119 

melt  any  soldered  strainer.  To  fry  well  the  food  should  be  dried. 
Fish  can  be  lightly  coated  with  flour  ;  vegetables  well-dried  in  a  cloth. 
Before  dropping  into  hot  fat  anything  that  contains  much  water  lift 
the  pan  off  the  stove,  as  the  fat  is  likely  to  bubble  over  and  catch  fire. 
Many  things  that  are  fried  are  previously  covered  with  egg  and 
breadcrumbs,  or  flour  and  milk  or  batter,  in  order  that  a  crust  may 
be  formed  round  them  to  keep  the  juice  in  and  the  fat  out.  The 
essential  thing  is  to  cover  them  completely  and  leave  no  crack. 

HINTS  FOR  AMATEUR  COOKS. 

The  two  most  common  faults  with  amateur  cooks  are  not  giving 
sufficient  time  and  attention  to  the  details  of  preparation,  and 
ignorance  of  the  varying  action  of  heat.  It  is  admitted  that  the 
making  of  soups  and  sauces  is  a  test  of  a  good  cook.  Now,  both  soups 
and  sauces  (with  a  few  exceptions,  which  prove  the  rule)  require  very 
careful  preliminary  preparation  and  close  attention  during  cooking. 
The  time  devoted  to  planning,  cleaning,  chopping,  paring  or  trussing, 
as  the  case  may  be,  is  not  lost.  The  actual  process  of  cooking  is  im- 
mensely facilitated,  and  success  half  assured,  if  everything  has  been 
properly  prepared  beforehand. 

Then,  as  regards  the  utilization  of  heat  ;  it  is  essential  in  boiling 
and  roasting  that  the  temperature  should  be  very  high  at  first,  to 
prevent  loss  of  nutriment,  and  then  be  lowered  to  prevent  the  meat 
being  scorched  and  dried.  In  stewing,  however  (and  this  applies  to 
soup  making)  the  heat  should  be  moderate  and  the  cooking  slow. 
Frying  in  most  cases  should  be  done  in  hot  fat,  so  a  deep  vessel 
full  of  oil  or  fat  at  a  very  high  temperature  should  be  used.  Omelets, 
pancakes,  and  a  few  other  preparations  only  require  to  be  placed  in  a 
pan  with  a  little  butter  ;  in  such  cases  the  fire  should  be  fairly  brisk. 
When  using  an  oven,  if  the  dish  requires  long  cooking,  get  up  a  high 
temperature  at  first  and  then  lower  it  slightly  ;  but  pastry  requires 
quick  cooking  in  a  fairly  brisk  oven. 

All  dishes  should  be  duly  flavoured  with  the  necessary  condiments 
during  the  process  of  cooking,  except  in  the  case  of  roast  meats,  \\  hen 
salt  should  only  be  applied  just  before  serving.  Water  is  a  solvent,  so 
all  meat  and  vegetables  should  be  plunged  into  fast  boiling  water, 
the  object  is  to  extract  flavour  for  making  soups.  Dried  peas 
and  beans,  however,  should  be  put  on  in  cold  water,  as  it  is  necessary 
to  soften  them. 

Amateur  cooks  may  prepare  dainty  breakfasts  and  suppers  if  they 
give  their  attention  to  the  peculiarities  of  electric  heated  stewpans, 
or  the  still  more  convenient  chafing-dish.  The  dishes  prepared 
in  these  vessels  are  generally  of  the  stew  or  daube  order.  For  I 
a  fairlv  large  amount  of  sauce  is  allowed,  and  the  cooking  should  be 
somewh  it  moderate  ;  for  daubes  very  little  moisture  is  allowed  and 
the  pan  must  be  closely  covered,  apply  high  temperature,  then  lower 


120  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  finish  with  reduced  heat.  Gas  as  well^as  electric  heat  and  the  spirit 
lamp  can  be  easily  regulated  as  desired. 

For  outdoor  cooking  (picnics  and  camping)  the  chafing-dish  is 
useful,  but  should  be  supplemented  with  a  tinplate  oil  cooking  stove, 
which  generally  provides  an  oven,  hot  plate,  and  ring  for  kettle  or 
stewpan. 

For  emergencies  a  good  substitute  for  cream  can  be  made  wTith 
fresh  milk,  a  little  butter  and  flour. 

If  milk  cannot  be  procured  for  tea  and  coffee,  use  an  egg  beaten 
up  to  a  froth. 

If  fresh- water  fish  is  caught  and  has  to  be  cooked,  wash  thoroughly  in 
clean  water  ;  if  small,  fry  ;  if  large,  stew  with  a  sauce,  in  which  wine 
or  vinegar  and  aromatic  herbs  are  used, 

PRESERVATION    OF    FOOD. 

An  important  consideration  is,  how  food  may  be  best  preserved 
with  a  view  to  its  being  suitably  dressed.  More  waste  is  often  occa- 
sioned by  the  want  of  judgment,  or  necessary  care  in  this  particular 
than  by  any  other  cause.  In  the  absence  of  proper  places  for  keeping 
provisions,  a  hanging  safe,  suspended  in  any  airy  situation,  is  the  best 
substitute.  A  well-ventilated  larder,  dry  and  shady,  is  better  for 
meat  and  poultry,  which  require  to  be  kept  for  some  time  ;  and  the 
utmost  skill  in  the  culinary  art  will  not  compensate  for  the  want  of 
proper  attention  to  this  particular.  Though  it  is  advisable  that  animal 
.food  should  be  hung  up  in  the  open  air  till  its  fibres  have  lost  some  degree 
of  their  toughness,  yet,  if  it  is  kept  till  it  loses  its  natural  sweetness, 
its  flavour  has  become  deteriorated,  and,  as  a  wholesome  comestible, 
it  has  lost  many  qualities  conducive  to  health.  As  soon,  therefore, 
as  the  slightest  trace  of  putrescence  is  detected,  it  has  reached  its 
highest  degree  of  tenderness,  and  should  be  dressed  immediately. 
During  the  sultry  summer  months,  it  is  difficult  to  procure  meat  that 
is  not  either  tough  or  tainted.  It  should,  therefore,  be  well  examined 
when  it  comes  in,  and  if  flies  have  touched  it,  the  part  must  be  cut  off, 
and  the  remainder  well  wiped  with  a  clean  cloth  dipped  in  warm  water 
and  vinegar.  In  loins  of  meat,  the  long  pipe  which  runs  in  the  cavity 
of  the  bone  should  be  taken  out,  as  it  is  apt  to  taint,  as  also  the  kernels 
of  beef.  Rumps  and  aitch-bones  of  beef,  should  not  be  purchased 
when  bruised. 

All  these  things  ought  to  enter  into  the  consideration  of  every 
household  manager  ;  and  great  care  should  be  taken  that  nothing  is 
thrown  away,  or  suffered  to  be  wasted  in  the  kitchen,  which  might. 
by  proper  management,  be  turned  to  a  good  account. 

The  shank  bones  of  mutton,  so  little  esteemed  in  general,  give  rich- 
ness to  soups  or  gravies,  if  well  soaked  and  bruised  before  they  are 
added  to  the  boiling  liquor. 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY 

Roast  beef  bones,  or  shank-bones  of  ham,  make  excellent  stock 
for  soup. 

When  the  whites  of  eggs  are  used  for  jelly,  confee  tioiiei  y,  or  other 
purposes,  a  pudding  or  a  custard  should  be  made,  that  the  yolks  may 
be  used. 

All  things  likely  to  be  wanted  should  be  in  readiness  :  sugars  of 
different  sorts  ;  currants  washed,  picked,  and  perfectly  dry  ;  spices 
pounded,  and  kept  in  very  small  bottles  closely  corked,  or  in  can- 
isters, as  we  have  already  directed.  Not  more  of  these  should  be 
purchased  at  a  time  than  are  likely  to  be  used  in  the  course  of  a 
month. 

Much  waste  is  always  prevented  by  keeping  every  article  in  the 
place  best  suited  to  it. 

In  very  cold  weather,  vegetables  touched  by  the  frost  should   be 

brought  into  the  kitchen  early  in  the  morning  and  soaked  in  i  old  \\ater. 

ibles  keep  best  on  a  stone  floor,  if  the  air  be  excluded  ;    nn.it 

in  a  cold,  dry   place  ;    as  also  salt,  sugar,   sweetmeats,   candles  dried 

meats  and  hams. 

Rice,  and  all  sorts  of  cereals  for  pudding,  should  be  i  .  en-d 

to  preserve  them  from  insects  ;    but  even  this  will  not  prevent    them 
from  being  affected  by  these  destroyers,  if  they  arc  long  and  car* 
kept  in  a  damp  place. 

J'ears  and  grapes  should  be  strung,  and  hung    up    in    :\  c<3ld,   dry 
plaee.      Apples  should  be  laid  on  straw,  after   being   carefully    \ 
and  should  not  touch  each  other.     They  keep   better  on  wood    than 
on  china. 

ADULTERATION. 

The   Act  passed   in    1872    for    the    prevention    of    Adulteration    of 
Food,  Drink    and   Drugs  declares  that  persons  who  adulter. 
of  food,  or  who  sell  those  that  they  know  to  have  been  adultr 
whether   with   material  injurious  to  the  health  or  not,  are  punishable 
with   line   or  imprisonment.     The   vendor  is  bound   to  declare   sm  h 
admixture  to  the  purchaser  at  the  time  of  the  sale.     The  insp- 
under  the  local  authorities  arc  directed  to  procure  samples  from  time 
to  time,  and  to  submit  them  to  the  public  analyst. 

Any  purchaser  may  have  any  article  of  food,  or  drink,  or  drugs 
analy/.ed  by  the  public  analyst  of  his  district  on  payment  of  a  sum 
not  less  than  half-a-crown  and  not  more  than  half-a-guinea. 

In  olden  times  the  prices  of  the  chief  necessaries  of  life  were  regu- 
lated by  authority.  Such  interference  has  long  been  a  thing  of  the 
Vendors  may  ask  any  price  they  please  for  the  things  they 
sell,  and  the  legislature  only  insists  that  no  fraud  shall  be  practised 
on  the  public,  and  that  goods  shall  be  sold  under  their  rightful 
names. 


122         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

PRICES  OF  FOOD 

Every  one  nowadays  will  agree  that  the  seller  should  fix  the  price 
at  which  he  will  sell  his  wares.  For  the  prices  vary  according  as 
the  supply  of  the  commodity  in  question  is  plentiful  and  the  demand 
great.  An  abundant  wheat  harvest  is  followed  by  cheap  bread  ; 
but  we  do  not  all  so  readily  understand,  that  not  bread  alone  but 
all  perishable  articles  must  be  dear  one  year  and  cheap  another. 
It  may  sometimes  happen  that  the  fall  in  price  never  reaches  the 
consumer,  but  stops  short  with  the  wholesale  or  retail  trader,  although 
this  tendency  is  to  some  extent  counteracted  by  the  competition  in 
retail  trade. 

Overcharging  is  most  likely  to  occur  where  the  customers  cannot 
readily  transfer  their  custom  to  a  neighbouring  shop,  as,  for  instance, 
in  isolated  country  places,  or  when  the  customers  are  in  debt,  or  under 
obligation  to  the  shopkeeper,  having  perhaps  been  supported  by  him 
during  times  of  scarce  work.  It  is  often  for  these  reasons  that  in  the 
poorest  and  most  wretched  neighbourhoods  the  highest  prices  rule. 
Customers  are  often  induced  by  considerations  of  fashion  or  conveni- 
ence to  pay  high  prices  ;  but  they  can  scarcely  be  said  to  be  over- 
charged, since  they  choose  to  pay  for  such  costly  luxuries  as  spacious 
premises,  handsome  shop-fronts,  numerous  shop  assistants  and  long 
credit.  Economical  people  are  compelled  to  go  without  these  and 
many  other  things  that  it  is  pleasant  to  have. 

DIET 

But  it  is  not  only  the  weight  and  the  cost  that  have  to  be  studied 
for  economy's  sake.  We  have  already  seen  that  it  is  possible  to 
starve  in  the  midst  of  plenty  ;  to  starve,  that  is,  for  want  of  one 
necessary  constituent  of  food,  though  all  the  others  may  be  supplied 
in  superabundance.  A  good  housekeeper  will,  therefore,  take  care 
that  upon  her  table  is  set  a  variety  of  well-chosen  food,  and  very  often 
indeed,  by  the  exercise  of  a  little  care  in  dieting,  she  may  prevent  the 
outlay  of  much  care  in  nursing  and  of  much  money  in  doctors'  bills. 
People  suffer  from  diseases  of  mal-nutrition  much  more  often  through 
bad  management  than  because  of  a  short  purse.  It  will  often  be  found, 
especially  with  children,  that  they  are  ill  for  want  of  certain  kinds  of 
food  and  yet  will  not  take  them  in  their  ordinary  form  ;  it  is  then 
the  part  of  the  housekeeper  to  reproduce  the  food  so  that  it  is  not 
recognized,  or  to  find  the  same  substance  in  some  other  form. 

COST  AND  ECONOMY 

Again,  two  foods  may  cost  the  same  and  weigh  the  same,  and  yet 
one  may  be  far  more  economical  than  the  other.  For  one  may  be 
very  nourishing,  containing  a  kind  of  food  that  is  not  cheaply  to 
be  bought,  and  it  may  besides  be  such  that  it  takes  up  water  and 


INTRODUCTION  TO  COOKERY  123 

increases  in  weight  in  the  cooking.  The  other  is  a  moist  food,  and 
will  lose  weight  before  it  comes  to  table,  or  it  may  be  starchy  food, 
which  can  always  be  bought  at  a  low  price,  or  it  may  contain  bone  and 
waste,  which  is  not  properly  to  be  called  food  at  all.  One  very  good 
contrast  is  afforded  by  a  pound  of  rumpsteak  at  fourteenpence,  and  a 
pound  of  beans  or  lentils  at  twopence.  Both  are  bought  for  the  sake 
of  flesh-forming,  or  nitrogenous,  food.  From  neither  is  there  actual 
waste  to  be  cut  away.  But  the  broiled  meat  will  not  weigh  more  than 
12  ozs.  when  it  comes  to  table,  and  the  pulse  will  have  taken  up  more 
than  its  own  weight  of  water,  which  costs  nothing.  We  have  two 
pounds  of  food  for  twopence  against  three-quarters  of  a  pound  for 
one  and  twopence. 

This  must  always  be  remembered  in  dealing  with  all  dry  foods. 
One  pound  of  Indian  meal  weighs  when  cooked  three  pounds  ;  half 
a  pound  of  macaroni  increases  to  two  pounds,  we  are  told  by  Rumford. 
Comparing  rice  to  flour,  if  both  are  the  same  price,  flour  is  cheaper 
because  it  is  less  starchy,  and  people  who  reckon  such  small  economies 
as  these  are  generally  ill-fed,  needing  flesh-formers,  which  are  chiefly 
to  be  found  in  the  costlier  foods. 

As  a  third  example  we  may  take  beefsteak  as  compared  to  mutton 
chops  :  they  are  usually  about  the  same  price  per  pound,  but  there 
can  be  no  question  which  is  the  cheaper  of  the  two,  for  the  beef  has  no 
bone  and  little  fat. 


DIGESTION 

Digestion  is  a  complicated  process,  and,  as  a  rule,  a  slow  one  It 
may  be  interfered  with  cither  by  physical  short-comings  such  as  ab- 
sence of,  or  bad,  teeth,  muscular  flaccidity,  or  nervous  exhaustion,  or 
by  functional  derangements  causing  a  deficiency  in  the  quality 
or  quantity  of  saliva,  gastric,  or  other  secretions,  which  are  poured  into 
the  stomach  or  intestines  during  the  process  of  digestion.  As  a  rule 
cooking  facilitates  digestion,  partly  by  softening  the  food,  and  partly 
by  inducing  chemical  changes  which  would  otherwise  have  to  be  in- 
duced by  functional  activity  in  the  stomach  or  intestines.  In  some 
instances,  however,  cooking  hardens  the  tissues,  and  so  retards  diges- 
tion. Over  roasting  or  quick  boiling,  of  meats  usually  toughens  the 
fibres.  Fat  retards  digestion,  as  it  has  to  undergo  a  long  process  of 
emulsifying  before  being  absorbed.  Salt  and  spices,  on  the  other 
hand,  hasten  digestion  by  stimulating  the  secretion  of  the  necessary 
juices.  But  an  over  indulgence  in  spices  of  all  kinds  will,  in  the  long 
run,  irritate  the  mucous  membrane  of  the  intestinal  canal,  induce  a 
congestive  tendency  of  the  secretory  organs,  and  so  produce  functional 
disorganization,  resulting  in  slow  and  painful  digestion.  Over- 
seasoning  brings  about  an  unhealthy  condition  of  the  liver.  Too  much 
liquid  in  the  stomach  immediately  before  or  while  eating  dilutes  the 


124 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


saliva  and  digestive  juices,  weakening  their  activity.  Too  long 
fasting  turns  the  natural  alkalinity  of  the  saliva  to  acidity, 
resulting  in  heartburn.  Coffee  and  tea  retard  digestion.  They 
should  not  be  partaken  of  at  a  meal  when  meat  is  eaten  to  any  extent. 
In  the  aged,  however,  good  tea  is  undoubtedly  beneficial  by  reducing 
tissue  waste.  Wines  and  light  beers  in  moderation  gently  stimulate 
digestion,  but  strong  beers  and  alcohol  greatly  prolong  the  process. 

Under  normal  conditions,  it  is  well  that  the  digestive  process  should 
not  be  prolonged  beyond  four  to  four-and-a-half  hours.  For  invalids 
and  persons  with  "  weak  stomachs,"  the  time  allowed  should  be  much 
less.  It  is,  therefore,  necessary  to  study  the  table  of  digestibility, 
which  has  been  compiled  from  the  result  of  repeated  experiments  by 
a  number  of  doctors.  It  must,  of  course,  be  remembered  that  with 
invalids,  the  weak,  children,  and  aged  persons,  digestion  is  prolonged 
beyond  the  normal  indicated  below, 


DIGESTIVE  TIME  TABLE 


Food 

T 

me 

Hours 

Minutes. 

Apples,  sweet       vrftfT 

Raw         .... 

I 

•?o 

,,        green      .      .      .      .            « 

Stewed     . 

j 

•3  r 

Boiled      .... 

to 

Barley  Soup         

30 

Boiled      .      .      .      . 

2 

0 

Beans         

Boiled      .... 

2 

30 

Puree 

j 

30 

Beef,  lean       

Roasted   . 

0^ 

o 

,,    tender         

Stewed     . 

2 

45 

Grilled      .      .      . 

•3 

0 

Beef,  fresh  salted      

Boiled      .... 

0 

2 

45 

6 

0 

Beets          

Boiled      .... 

45 

Brains         

Boiled      .... 

j 

t 

Bread,  fresh          

Baked      .... 

•7 

30 

Butler        

Melted      .... 

J 
•? 

30    ' 

Bread  and  Butter  (with  coffee)     . 
Cabbage     .      .      .      .            t 

Roasted  . 

3 

45 

•JQ 

Pickled    . 

30 

Celery         .    '  .      •    1  10173  iJs«   -MU  ^n 

Boiled 

30 

Chicken      .     ,i^v/.  >;;;Tht.  iL%  u>..  .014: 

Boiled 

3o 

Fricasseed 

2 

4? 

Cheese,  okl     

30 

Custard 

Boiled 

A  r 

Duck          

Roasted  .... 

o 

Eel        ...                   .... 

Roasted 

6 

o 

INTRODUCTION  TO   COOKERY 
DIGESTIVE  TIME  TABLE    (continued). 


125 


Food. 

Preparation. 

Time. 

Hours. 

Minutes. 

Eggs    fresh     

Raw   

2 
3 

4 

i 

3 

2 

3 

-i 
4 
4 

2 
2 

2 

3 

2 
2 

2 
2 

3 
3 

5 

2 

3 
3 

2 

5 

3 

2 

I 

3 

3 

<; 

5 

i 

3 

i 
i 

4 
6 

2 

I 
I 
2 
2 
3 

4 

T 

0 
0 
0 

30 

0 

30 

0 

o 

0 

15 
30 

3° 

30 

o 

30 
30 

15 

0 

o 

15 

o 

55 

30 

30 
30 
15 
15 
30 

0 

15 
30 

C) 

30 

35 

0 

3° 
30 

0 

0 
0 

o 

30 
30 

IS 

30 
30 
40 

Soft  boiled     .      .      . 
Hard  boiled 
Whipped  (raw) 
Scrambled 
Boiled      .... 
Fried        .... 
Boiled      .... 
Roasted  .... 
Roasted  .... 
Roasted  .... 
Warmed         .      .      . 
Fried  or  sauteed     . 

Grilled 
Boiled      .... 
Raw   

Fish  (other  than  fat  varieties). 
Fowls          ."   .       .    "  

Game  (most  kinds)          .... 
Goose 

Hashed   meat 

Liver  (calves') 

(ox) 

Lamb          

Lentils       

Milk      

Boiled      .... 
Boiled  and  broiled  . 
Roasted  .... 

Raw 

Mutton       

lean     

Nuts     

(  Jysters 

Stewed       .... 
Stt'Wed      .... 
Ko.K-d         .... 

Roasted  .... 
K'oasted    .... 

:l'*d        .... 
Fried   or   Kiked 
iU-d       .... 
Raw    

Onions        



in  king          

Pork,   t'.it          

,,     salt      

Potatoes     . 

Rice      
Salad            
Sausage      

:lli-d       .... 
Smoked           .       . 

.1    .    . 

Boiled        .... 
Fried        .... 
Stewed     .      .      . 
Boiled      .... 

Raw   . 

Suet      .... 


Soles    

SoiiKu  h      .... 

Salmon,    fivsh 

smoked          
Stone    Fruit     

Tapioi:;»       

Boiled       . 

1'olled         .        .        . 
'led         .... 
K-.ash-il    .... 

il.-d       .... 

railed     .... 

Koasted   or   grilled    . 

•Mrd        .        '.         .         . 

Tripe     

'1  rout           
Turkey       

Turnips      .... 

; 

Venison      

126 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


QUANTITIES  AND  MEASURES 


AVOIRDUPOIS  WEIGHT. 


1 6  Drachms  — 

1 6  Ounces  = 

14  Pounds  — 

28  Pounds  =• 

4  Quarters  = 

20  Hundredweight  =«= 


i  Drachm, 
i  Ounce. 

Pound  (lb.). 

Stone. 

Quarter  (qr.). 
Hundredwt. 

Ton. 


APOTHECARIES' 

20  Grains  •=  i  Scruple  —  20  grs. 

3  Scruples  •=  i  Drachm  =  60  „ 

8  Drachms  =»  i  Ounce  —  480  „ 

12  Ounces  =  i  Pound  =-=5760  „ 

Apothecaries  compound  their  medi- 
cines by  this  weight,  but  buy  and  sell 
their  drugs  by  avoirdupois. 


APOTHECARIES'     FLUID 
MEASURE 

60  Minims    =i  Fluid   Drachm. 

8  Drachms  =  i  Ounce. 
20  Ounces     =i  Pint. 

8  Pints        =i  Gallon. 


DRY  MEASURE 


2  Gallons 
4  Pecks 
3  Bushels 
12  Sacks 
8  Bushels 
5  Quarters 

-   i  Peck  (pk.). 
=  i  Bushel    (bush.). 
«=   i  Sack. 
=-  i  Chaldron. 
=  i  Quarter    (qr.). 
-  i  Load  (Id.). 

LIQUID    MEASURE 

4  Gills  =   i  Pint  (pt.). 

2  Pints  —  i  Quart  (qt.). 

4  Quarts  =  i  Gallon  (gall.), 


QUANTITIES   AND  TIME 

Scales  and  weights  for  weighing  are  desirable  in  all  culinary  opera- 
tions, but  they  are  not  indispensable  ;  for  weights  and  measures  have 
their  equivalents,  as  the  appended  tables  will  show.  They  may  not 
be  strictly  exact,  but  they  are  sufficiently  so  for  ordinary  purposes. 
The  "  rule  of  thumb  "  system  sometimes  produces  very  good  results, 
but  it  is  uncertain,  and  it  is  better  to  have  a  rough  guide  than  none  ; 
and  failing  weights  and  scales,  all  ingredients  should  be  measured  in 
cups,  spoons,  or  whatever  utensil  or  vessel  may  be  best  suited  to  the 
quantity.  But  whether  the  ingredients  are  intended  for  a  cake, 
pudding,  soup  or  sauce,  something  more  than  exact  weight  and  measure 
and  careful  mixing  is  required.  The  recipes  give  precise  directions  as 
to  application  of  strong  or  gentle  heat,  and  whether  the  vessels  are  to 
remain  uncovered  or  otherwise.  If  these  directions  be  disregarded, 
and  soups  or  stews  are  allowed  to  reduce  themselves  by  evaporation 
and  rapid  boiling,  it  naturally  follows  that  the  amount  of  liquid  allowed 
for  the  stew  is  too  little,  and  the  quantity  of  thickening  intended  for 
the  soup  will  be  found  too  much.  If  eggs  were  of  uniform  size,  and  if 
flour  always  absorbed  the  same  amount  of  liquid,  it  would  be  possible 
to  state  precisely  how  many  eggs  or  how  much  milk  would  sufficiently 
moisten  a  given  quantity  of  flour.  As  matters  stand,  indecisive  terms 
and  directions  are  sometimes  unavoidable  ;  occasionally  something 
must  be  left  to  the  discretion  and  common-sense  of  the  worker. 


THE    SCIENCE    OF   COOKERY 
TABLE  OF  EQUIVALENTS 


127 


i  Breakfastcupful  of  Water  or  Milk 

i.Teacupful                        ,,  ,, 

4  Tablespoonfuls               „  ,, 

i  Wineglassful                   ,,  ,, 


MEASURE. 
.     |  pint. 

'.     i     ',', 


WEIGHT. 

Breakfastcupful  of  moist  sugar  (heaped)    .      .     £  Ib. 
castor         „         ,,  .     7  ozs. 

rice  „         „  .      7     ,, 

butter,  lard  or  dripping  (hpd.)  7  ,, 
suet  (finely  chopped)  ,,  .  4  ,, 
breadcrumbs,  pressed  in  ,,  .  4  ,, 
sago,  tapioca,  semolina  ,,  .  4  ,, 
flour,  cornflour  ,,  „  .  4  ,, 


Tablespoonful  of  suet  finely  chopped  (heaped) 
flour  ,, 

moist  sugar 
golden  syrup 

Dessertspoonful  of  flour  (heaped)    . 

moist  sugar 
golden  syrup  (level) 
marmalade  ,, 

Saltspoonful  is  equal  to 

Teaspoonful  ,,  

Dessertspoonful       ,,  


WEIGHT. 
i  oz. 
i 


ton  spoonful. 
dessertspoonful, 
tablespoon ful. 


6  Ordinary-sized  lumps  of  sugar  weigh  i  oz. 

A  piece  of  butter  or  fat,  about  the  size  of  a  small 
egg,  weighs about  i     .. 


NOTE 


IT  will  be  seen,  on  referring  to  the  Recipes  which  follow,  that  by  the 
original  method  of  explanation  adopted,  the  rules  for  the  preparation 
of  each  dish  are  clearly  and  intelligibly  indicated.  We  would  recom- 
mend the  young  housekeeper,  cook,  or  whoever  may  be  engaged  in 
the  important  task  of  "  getting  ready  "  the  dinner  or  other  meal,  to 
follow  precisely  the  order  in  which  the  Recipes  are  given.  Thus,  let 
them  first  place  on  their  table  all  the  Ingredients  necessary  ;  then  the 
Method  of  preparation  will  be  quickly  and  easily  managed.  By  carefully 
reading  the  Recipes  there  should  not  be  the  slightest  difficulty  in  arranj 
ing  a  repast  for  any  number  of  persons,  and  an  accurate  notion  will 
gained  of  the  Time  required  for  the  cooking  of  each  dish,  the  perk 
when  it  is  Seasonable,  and  its  Average  Cost. 

The  prices  are  based  on  a  careful  study  of  the  London  Market  lisl 
of  the  season,  when  the  various  articles  are  at  their  best.     Where  tl 
fluctuations  are  very  considerable,  the  item  is  omitted  from  the  c< 
culation.      As  stated,  the  prices  are  Average  only,  and  must  be  modifie 
according  to  season,  district  and  the  supply  of  and  demand  for 
articles  that  may  prevail. 

Notes  are  also  given  on  the  natural  history  of  the  different  anirm 
and  various  edible  articles  in  common  use,  indicating  their   habital 
characteristic  features,   and  dietetic   value,    which    from  a  practi< 
economical  and  educational  point  of  view  will  be   found   both   inte 
esting  and  serviceable. 


128 


SOUPS. 


SOUPS. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

General  directions  for  making  Soups  and  Stock,  with 
observations  on  the  materials  required  for  Soups. 
Thickenings  and  Flavourings. 

THE  valuable  dietetic  properties  of  soup  have  been,  and  indeed  still  are, 
much  overlooked  in  this  country.  Soup  forms  the  first  course  of  the 
ncal  of  those  who  dine  in  the  true  sense  of  the  term,  but  its  import. nice 
is  a  part  of  the  every  day  diet  is  not  sufficiently  appreciated  by  the 
nultitnde  in  those  islands.  Yet  no  form  of  food  is  more  digestible  and 
.vlmlt  some,  nor  does  any  other  method  of  preparing  food  afford  so  many 
opportunities  for  utilizing  material  that  would  otherwise  be  u..Mr<l. 

ly  a  hundred  years  ago  Count  Rumford,  the  famous  scientist 
md  founder  of  the  Royal  Institution,  wrote  : — 

"  The  richness  or  quality  of  a  soup  depends  more  upon  a  proper 
hoice  of  ingredients,  and  a  proper  management  of  the  fire  in  the  com- 
nnation  of  those  ingredients,  than  upon  the  quantity  of  solid  nutritious 
natter  employed  ;  much  more  upon  the  art  and  skill  of  the  cook  than 
ipon  the  sum  laid  out  in  the  market." 

This  remark  is  as  true  to-day  as  it  was  a  century  ago.     The  average 

Mies  that  the  goodness  of  a  soup  depends  upon  the  weight  <>t 

:ie  puts  into  it,  and  upon  the  size  of  the  fire  over  which  it  is  boil< -d. 

t  will   therefore  be  advisable  to  preface  this  chapter  with  a  simple 

•it-ntiti.-  account  of  a  few  of  the  most  interesting  and  important  f_u  ts 

•Inch  relate  to  the  food  we  have  to  prepare,  and  the  theory  and  chem- 

ious  culinary  operations.     This  is,  therefore,  the  proper 

lace  to  treat  of  the  quality  of  the  flesh  of  animals,  and  to  describe  some 

I   the   conditions    which    affect  its    qualities.      We   will     commence 

ith  the  consideration  of  age,  and  examine  how  far  this  affects  the 

uality  of  the  meat. 

129 


i3o  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

The  Flesh  of  Animals. — During  the  period  between  the  birth  and 
maturity  of  animals  their  flesh  undergoes  very  considerable  changes. 
For  instance,  when  the  animal  is  young,  the  fluids  in  the  tissues  of  the 
muscles  contain  a  large  proportion  of  albumin  and  gelatin.  This 
albumin,  which  is  also  the  chief  component  of  the  white  of  eggs,  and  is 
the  essential  constituent  of  protoplasm,  the  physical  basis  of  life, 
possesses  the  peculiarity  of  coagulating  or  hardening  at  a  certain 
temperature  (160°  F.,  the  cooking  point  of  meat)  like  the  white  of  a 
boiled  egg,  and  becomes  no  longer  soluble  or  capable  of  being  dissolved 
in  water.  As  animals  grow  older  gelatin  gradually  decreases  in  pro- 
portion to  the  fibrin  (an  organic  compound  substance  which  constitutes 
the  solid  matter  that  is  deposited  when  blood  coagulates)  and  to  the 
other  constituents  of  the  flesh.  The  reason,  therefore,  why  veal,  lamb 
and  young  pork  are  white  when  cooked  is  that  the  large  quantity  of 
albumin  contained  in  the  fibres  hardens,  or  becomes  coagulated.  The 
chief  characteristic  of  young  meat  is  the  great  proportion  of  gelatin 
contained  in  those  parts  that  afterwards  become  hard  or  bony. 

The  quality  of  the  flesh  of  animals  is  influenced  considerably  by  the 
nature  of  the  food  on  which  they  have  been  fed,  for  the  food  supplies 
the  material  which  produces  the  flesh.  If  the  food  is  not  suitable  and 
good,  the  meat  will  necessarily  be  inferior.  The  flesh  of  animals  fed 
on  farinaceous  produce,  as  corn,  pulse,  etc.,  is  firm,  well-flavoured  and 
also  economical  in  the  cooking  ;  the  flesh  of  those  fed  on  juicy  and  pulpy 
substances,  as  roots,  possesses  these  qualities  in  a  somewhat  less  degree  ; 
but  the  flesh  of  those  whose  food  contains  fixed  oil,  as  linseed,  is  greasy, 
high-coloured  and  gross  in  the  fat,  and  if  such  food  has  been  used  in 
large  quantities,  will  have  a  rank  flavour. 

Health  of  Animals. — It  is  indispensable  to  the  good  quality  of  meat 
that  the  animal  should  be  perfectly  healthy  when  slaughtered.  How- 
ever slight  the  disease  in  an  animal  may  be,  inferiority  in  the  quality 
of  its  flesh  as  food  is  certain  to  follow.  In  many  cases,  indeed, 
the  flesh  of  diseased  animals  has  a  tendency  to  very  rapid  putre- 
faction, and  becomes  not  only  unwholesome,  but  absolutely  poisonous 
to  those  who  eat  it. 

The  Treatment  of  the  Animal  before  it  is  Slaughtered  is  another  circum- 
stance which  greatly  affects  the  quality  of  meat,  and  has  an  important 
influence  on  its  value  and  wholesomeness.  This  will  be  readily  under- 
stood if  we  consider  the  laws  in  accordance  with  which  the  life  of  an 
animal  is  supported  and  maintained.  These  are  the  digestion  of  its 
food  and  the  assimilation  of  that  food  into  its  substance.  Nature  in 
effecting  this  process,  first  reduces  the  food  in  the  stomach  to  a  state 
of  pulp,  under  the  name  of  chyme,  which  passes  into  the  intestines 
and  is  there  divided  into  two  principles,  each  distinct  from  the  other. 
One,  a  milk-white  fluid — the  nutritive  portion — is  absorbed  by  th( 
innumerable  vessels  which  open  upon  the  mucous  membrane,  or  inne 


SOUPS  131 

coat  of  the  intestines.  These  vessels,  or  absorbents,  discharge  the 
fluid  into  a  common  duct,  or  road,  along  which  it  is  conveyed  to  the 
blood,  thus  supplying  it  with  materials  whereby  the  various  tissues 
are  nourished.  The  blood  having  circulated  through  all  parts, 
and  having  had  its  waste  repaired  by  the  digested  food,  is  now 
received  into  the  heart,  and  by  the  action  of  that  organ  it  is  urged 
through  the  lungs,  there  to  receive  its  purification  from  the  air 
which  the  animal  inhales.  Again  returning  to  the  heart,  it  is  forced 
through  the  arteries,  and  thence  distributed  by  the  innumerable  ramifi- 
cations of  the  minute  blood-vessels,  called  capillaries,  to  every  part  of 
the  animal,  imparting  life  and  nutriment.  The  other  principle — the 
innutritive  portion — passes  from  the  intestines  out  of  the  system.  It 
will  now  be  clearly  seen  how  flesh  is  injuriously  affected  if  an  animal  is 
slaughtered  when  the  circulation  of  its  blood  has  been  increased  by 
over-driving,  ill-usage  or  any  other  cause  of  excitement,  to  such  a  degree 
that  the  capillaries  cannot  perform  their  functions  properly,  thus 
ing  the  blood  to  be  congealed  in  its  minuter  vessels.  Where  this  has 
been  the  case,  the  meat  will  be  dark-coloured  and  become  rapidly 
putrid,  so  that  self-interest  and  humanity  alike  dictate  kind  and  gentle 
treatment  of  all  animals  destined  to  serve  as  food  for  man. 


THE    CHEMISTRY   AND    ECONOMY    OF   SOUP 
MAKING. 

The  Basis  of  all  Meat  Soups. — Stock  forms  the  basis  of  all  ir 
ind  of  the  principal  sauces  ;  but  except  the  rich  clear  stock  us> 
:onsomme   (or  clear  soup),  it  is   not   necessarily    made    from     fresh 
In  making  brown  stock  from  the  shin  of  beef,  white  stock  from 
he  knuckle  of  veal,  or  ordinary  stock  from  the  bones  and  the  trimmings 
f  meat,  poultry,  etc.,  the  methods  employed  for  completely  extracting 
rom  the  materials  all  their  nutriment  and  flavour  are  the  same  :  the 
esult  depends  upon  the  quality  and  kind  of  material  employed,  and 
hie  length  of  time  the  simmering  is  continued.     Five  or  six  hours  will 
xtract  from  the  materials  all  that  is  necessary  and  desirable  for  stock 
ntendcd  for  clear  soup  ;  but  many  more  hours  of  gentle  simmering  will 
>e  necessary  to  draw  from  the  bones  all  the  goodness  they  contain. 

In  Franco,  and  indeed  throughout  the  Continent  generally,  a  stock-pot 
v-ill  be  found  in  every  peasant's  kitchen.     By  its  means,  the  ba 

i  delicious  meal  can  be  provided  from  materials  that  would  be 
as  ted  in  the  average  middle  class  household  in  Britain. 
The  component  parts  of  meat  are  :  albumin,  myosin  (contained  in 
11  muscle  fibres  \   fibrin,   gelatin,   fat,  alkaline  salts  and  certain  <-x- 
actives  known  as  osmasome,  which  give  to  flesh  its  characteristic 
:Me  flavour. 


1 32  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Albumin. — Albuir^n  is  the  most  valuable  nutritive  substance  con- 
tained in  meat  ;  it  and  its  allied  substance  myosin  are  soluble  in  cold 
water,  but  coagulate  or  harden  almost  immediately  they  come  in 
contact  with  boiling  water,  or  with  water  a  few  degrees  below  boiling 
point  ;  and  it  is  the  knowledge  of  these  important  facts  which  enables 
us  to  retain  the  juices  in  the  meat  in  roasting  and  boiling,  and  extract 
all  the  goodness  from  it  in  making  soup.  The  chemistry  of  this  will 
be  easily  understood  by  minutely  examining  the  thread-like  fragments 
of  meat  that  have  been  subjected  to  a  long  process  of  boiling.  In  the 
raw  condition  each  separate  fibre  was  intermixed  with  and  surrounded 
by  albumin,  myosin,  etc.  In  making  stock,  the  meat  is  cut  up  into 
rather  small  pieces  in  order  to  expose  a  larger  surface  to  the  action  of 
the  water.  If  put  into  cold  water  and  allowed  to  stand  for  some  time 
the  soluble  substances,  albumin,  myosin,  osmasome  and  salts  are  ex- 
tracted. The  salts  and  extractives  (certain  nitrogenous  crystalline 
bodies)  being  readily  soluble  are  dissolved  at  once,  the  albumin  and 
myosin  dissolve  slowly  and  the  gelatin  becomes  softened.  When  heat 
is  applied  its  first  gentle  effect  is  to  hasten  the  dissolving  and  softening 
processes,  but  as  it  approaches  boiling  point  the  albumin  and  myosin 
coagulate  and  appear  as  brown  particles  on  the  surface  of  the  stock. 
The  connective  tissue  which  surrounds  and  binds  the  thread-like  fibres 
together  dissolves  under  the  influence  of  heat,  and  yields  gelatin  to  the 
stock.  Should  the  mistake  of  putting  the  meat  into  boiling  water  be 
made  the  albumin  on  the  surface  of  each  piece  of  meat  would  immedi- 
ately harden  and  imprison  the  juices  of  the  meat,  and  thus  protect  them 
and  the  fibres  from  the  softening  and  dissolving  influence  of  the  water. 
Consequently  the  stock  would  be  thin  and  poor. 

Gelatin. — The  best  stock  and  the  best  beef  tea  are  not  necessarily 
those  which,  when  cold,  form  a  jelly.  The  properties  to  which  beef 
tea  owes  its  valuable  stimulating  power  are  not  derived  from  gelatin, 
but  from  the  juices  of  the  meat  ;  of  which  juices  more  can  be  extracted 
from  a  beef-steak  cut  from  a  recently-killed  animal,  than  from  one  that 
has  been  hung  for  some  time,  and  yet  obtained  in  a  much  larger  pro- 
portion from  ANY  KIND  of  beef-steak  than  from  the  highly  gelatinous 
shin  of  beef.  Juicy  beef  produces  well-flavoured,  stimulating  beet  tea, 
but  such  a  liquid,  strained  of  its  floating  particles  of  coagulated  albumin, 
has  no  value  as  a  food,  and  notwithstanding  its  rich  flavour  of  meat 
would  be  regarded  as  too  thin  and  watery  to  form  the  basis  of  a  good 
consomme,  which  must  combine  both  flavour  and  substance.  Th<  i« 
fore,  in  making  stock,  the  extraction  of  the  juices  of  meat  by  the 
process  already  indicated,  should  be  followed  by  a  long,  slow  simmering  to 
soften  and  dissolve  the  connective  tissue,  tendons,  etc.,  which  yield  a 
more  transparent  gelatin  than  that  extracted  from  bones.  Gelatin 
not  only  gives  substance  to  the  stock,  but  also  makes  it  more  nourishing, 
if  that  point  need  be  considered  in  a  liquid  forming  the  basis  of  a  con- 


SOUPS  133 

somme  generally  used  as  a  prelude  to  a  dinner  in  which  meat  and 
poultry  play  an  important  part.  Gelatin  in  this  form  is  more  useful  to 
those  who  cannot  eat  much  meat  or  other  albuminoid  food,  as  the 
nitrogen  of  the  gelatin  replaces  the  nitrogen  of  albumin,  in  the  form- 
ation of  many  digestive  and  other  secretions  of  the  body,  if  not  in  its 
constructive  processes. 

Extractives. — It  is  to  the  changes  the  extractives  undergo  during  the 
process  of  cooking  that  meat  owes  much  of  its  flavour,  particularly  the 
outside  of  roast  meat.  The  flesh  of  old  animals  contains  more  of  these 
substances  than  that  of  young  ones  ;  brown  meats  contain  more  than 
white,  and  consequently  give  a  richer,  if  a  less  delicate,  flavour  to  the 
stock. 

CLASSIFICATION  OF  SOUPS. 

Although  there  are  between  five  and  six  hundred  different  kinds  of 
soup,  they  can  be  broadly  divided  into  a  few  distinct  classes,  namely, 
broths,  clear  soups,  thick  soups  and  pur6es  ;  each  group  may  be  divided 
and  sub-divided,  but  it  will  be  more  convenient  to  consider  them  under 
this  simple  classification. 

Broths. — The  unclarified  liquor  in  which  chicken,  veal,  beef,  mutton, 
rabbit  or  sheep's  head  is  cooked  are  included  in  this  class.  Tlu-y 
arc  frequently  garnished  with  pearl-barley  or  rice,  but  they  are  not 
thickened. 

Clear  Soups. — The  basis  of  good  clear  soups  is  double  stock,  that  is, 
a  good  beef  stock  which  has  been  strengthened  with  veal  to  give  it 
gelatinous  substance,  and  with  fowl  to  improve  the  flavour.  The  clear 
soups  include  all  those  which  are  transparent  in  appearance,  varying 
in  colour  from  amber  to  nut-brown.  Additions  may  be  made  to  them 
as  a  garniture  or  decoration,  from  which  they  take  their  distinctive 
name.  Some  of  the  garnitures  and  flavouring  in  common  use  are  : 
vegetables;  "shaped,"  i.e.  cut  into  various  shapes  or  devices;  dice, 
or  small  cubes  of  cooked  game,  chicken,  meat  and  fish  ;  quenelles  of 
meat,  fish  and  chicken  ;  finely  shredded  vegetables  ;  various  farinaceous 
preparations  as  Italian  paste,  semolina,  rice,  sago  and  batters. 

Thick  Soups. — The  basis  of  soups  of  this  class  may  be  stock  of  any 
kind,  white,  brown,  fish  or  vegetable,  according  to  the  soup  required, 
or  a  mixture  of  white  stock  and  milk  for  such  soups  as  Potage  a  la 
Royal  and  Potage  a  la  Bonne  Femme  ;  or  all  milk,  or  milk  and  water 
for  such  plain  thick  soups  as  cabbage  and  vegetable  soups.  Soups  of 
this  class  are  frequently  garnished  as  well  as  being  thickened  ;  the  well- 
known  ox-tail  and  mock  turtle  soups  may  be  given  as  examples.  Thick 
soups  owe  their  thickening  to  the  addition  of  arrowroot,  cornflour, 
rice-flour,  flour,  or  some  other  farinaceous  substance  ;  rich  soups,  such 
as  "  Bonne  Femme,"  are  thickened  by  a  liaison  or  combination  of 


i34  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

yolks  of  eggs  and  cream,  while  a  good  brown  soup  like  "  Ox  Tail  " 
would  be  thickened  with  butter  and  flour,  previously  either  cooked  or 
well  kneaded  together.  In  making  hare  soup  the  blood  of  the  animal 
is  frequently  used  :  it  should  be  strained  into  the  soup  a  few  minutes 
before  serving.  Thick  soups  should  have  the  same  consistency  as  good 
single  cream,  i.e.  cream  obtained  from  milk  that  has  stood  12  hours. 

Purges. — This  class  of  soups  differs  from  other  thick  soups  in  being 
thickened  by  the  ingredients  of  which  they  are  made,  such  as  Bisque 
of  Lobster,  purees  of  peas,  beans  and  lentils  ;  in  all  cases  the  sub- 
stances comprising  the  soup  are  rubbed  through  a  sieve  and  served  in 
the  soup.  Croutons  of  bread  are  usually  used  with  purees. 

PUR£E,  Fr. — A  smooth  pulp,  thick  soup,  mashed  vegetables.  Meat  or  fish  that  has  been  cooked, 
pounded  in  a  mortar,  and  passed  through  a  sieve  is  also  called  a  puree. 

Vegetarian  Soups. — A  soup  made  of  milk  and  cabbage,  lettuce  or 
mixed  vegetables,  may  not  please  the  English  palate  so  well  as  the  more 
expensive  consomme,  but  it  contains  as  much  nourishment,  and  if  in 
itself  it  had  no  food  value  whatever  it  would  still  be  a  useful  addition 
to  a  meal  of  cold  meat.  A  few  words  will  explain  this.  Food  serves 
the  twofold  purpose  of  maintaining  the  heat  of  the  body  and  of  sup- 
plying force  or  strength.  A  want  of  food  produces  not  only  a  sense  of 
hunger,  but  also  a  sensation  of  cold.  If  a  meal  of  cold  meat  be 
taken,  a  part  of  the  latent  heat  contained  in  it  will  be  spent  in  raising 
the  temperature  of  the  food  to  that  of  the  body,  consequently  less  food 
will  be  available  for  the  production  of  heat  and  energy.  Some  hot 
soup  taken  at  the  commencement  of  the  meal  would  not  only  have 
strengthened  the  stomach  and  made  it  better  able  to  receive  the  sub- 
stantial food  to  follow,  but  it  would  by  its  own  heat  have  quickly  raised 
the  temperature  of  the  food  it  became  mixed  with.  Soups  made  from 
peas,  beans  and  lentils,  being  very  rich  in  carbo-hydrates,  contain  so 
much  nourishment  that  they  ought  to  be  eaten  in  the  place  of  meat 
instead  of  with  it  :  every  economical  housewife  should  know  the  value 
of  these  soups.  Mattieu  Williams,  speaking  of  vegetable  soups,  says  : 
"  I  must  add  a  few  words  in  advocacy  of  the  further  adoption  in  this 
country  of  the  French  practice  of  using  as  POTAGE  the  water  in  which 
vegetables  generally  (excepting  potatoes)  have  been  boiled.  When  we 
boil  cabbages,  turnips,  carrots,  etc.,  we  dissolve  out  of  them  a  very 
large  proportion  of  their  saline  constituents  ;  salts  which  are  absolutely 
necessary  for  the  maintenance  of  health  ;  salts  without  which  we  be- 
come victims  of  gout,  rheumatism,  lumbago  and  gravel." 

Flavourings  for  Soups. — The  following  list  of  flavourings  simply  enu- 
merates those  most  commonly  used  and  conveniently  obtained  :  tur- 
nips, carrots,  onions,  celery,  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf  (parsley,  thyme 
and  bay-leaf  are  usually  tied  together  and  spoken  of  as  a  "  bouquet- 
garni"),  tarragon,  chervil,  tomatoes,  celery  seeds,  cloves,  wine, 
vinegars  of  various  kinds,  and  lemon  juice. 


SOUPS  135 

Seasoning  for  Soups. — In  addition  to  salt  and  pepper,  which  form  the 
ordinary  seasonings  for  soups,  and  which  must  be  added  with  caution, 
nutmeg,  allspice,  mace,  sugar  and  cinnamon  are  used,  but  in  all 
cases  judgment  and  discretion  must  be  exercised,  as  an  overdose  of 
any  one  of  the  above  ingredients  may  spoil  the  best  soup. 

The  exact  quantity  of  liquid  needed  in  making  soup  cannot,  speaking 
generally,  be  given,  so  much  depends  on  the  rate  of  cooking,  and 
whether  the  lid  of  the  saucepan  is  kept  on  to  prevent  waste  by  evapora- 
tion. If  the  liquid  becomes  greatly  reduced  by  rapid  boiling  but  has 
been  closely  covered,  the  contents  of  the  saucepan  have  merely  become 
concentrated  in  strength  and  flavour,  and  water  may  be  added  to  make 
up  the  original  quantity.  Should  the  liquid,  by  being  allowed  to 
boil  in  an  uncovered  saucepan,  have  wasted  its  strength  and  flavour, 
sufficient  stock,  milk,  or  whatever  formed  the  basis  of  the  soup, 
must  be  added  to  make  up  the  original  STRENGTH  and  quantity.  The 
inexperienced  cook  should  take  this  lesson  to  heart — Cooking  cannot  be 
Hastened.  If  the  preparations  for  dinner  have  been  somewhat  delayed 
nothing  is  gained  by  placing  the  saucepan  containing  the  soup,  stew, 
or  meat  on  the  top  of  a  fierce  fire.  When  once  the  SLOW-BOILING  or 
simmering  point  has  been  reached  all  excess  of  heat  is  wasted,  and  the 
BENEFIT  of  slow  progressive  cooking  is  lost. 

STOCK. 

The  following  information  and  directions  will  be  found  useful  in 
the  making  of  stock. 

1.  Beef  makes  the  best  brown  stock,  but  it  lacks  gelatinous  substance  ; 
therefore  stock  for  good  consomme,  or  clear  soup,  should  be  made  of 
beef  and  veal,  and  a  fowl,  or  part  of  a  fowl  added  to  give  it  an  additional 
flavour. 

2.  White    stock   is   usually  made  from    veal,  bones  and  remains  of 
poultry  and  calves'  feet.     The  liquor  in  which  calves'  head  or  fowls 
has  been  boiled  makes  excellent  white  stock. 

3.  Stock  meat  should  be  as  lean  and  as  fresh  as  possible.     Never  wash 
meat  unless  obliged,  as  it  deprives  its  surface  of  all  the  juices.     It  should 
be  cut  into  small  pieces,  in  order  to  multiply  the  surfaces  to  be  exposed 
to  the  softening  and  dissolving  influences  of  the  water. 

4.  The  usual  allowance  of  water  is  i  quart  to  each  Ib.  of  meat.     This 
may,  however,  be  too  large  a  quantity  if  the  stock  is  very  gently  sim- 
mered and  kept  covered  the  whole  time  ;  on  the  other  hand,  if  cooked 
too  quickly,  or  if  by  careless  exposure  the  evaporation  is  excessive,  the 
amount  specified  may  not  be  sufficient. 

5.  The  meat  should  be  allowed  to  stand  in  the  water  for  a  little  time 
in  order  to  dissolve  the  soluble  constituents  ;  heat  should  be  applied 
gradually  until  the  stock  reaches  the  boiling  point  ;  when  the  scum 


136  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

thrown  up  by  boiling  has  been  removed,  the  stock  should  be  reduced 
to,  and  kept  at,  simmering  point. 

6.  The  vegetables  must  be  whole  or  in  large  pieces,  and  be  added  after 
the  stock  has  boiled  and  the  scum  has  been  removed.     They  should  be 
used  very  sparingly  so  as  not  to  overpower  the  flavour  of  the  meat.     To 
4  quarts  of  water,  i  carrot,  i  onion,  £  a  turnip  and  i  short  strip  of  celery 
should  be  allowed,  also  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and   12  peppercorns  ; 
ground  pepper  should  never  be  used,  as  it  makes  stock  and  clear  soup 
cloudy, 

7.  The  stock  should  simmer  very  gently  for  5  or  6  hours,  with  the  stock- 
pot  covered  to  prevent  waste  by  evaporation.     When  ready,  it  should 
be  strained  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  large  basin,  and  the  meat  and 
sediment  at  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  be  put  back  into  the  stock  pot. 

8.  When  cold,  the  fat  should  be  removed  from  the  surface. 

MANAGEMENT  OP  A  HOUSEHOLD  STOCK-POT. 

For  most  cooking  operations  stock  is  in  constant  demand  to  form  the 
basis  of  a  soup,  a  sauce  or  gravy.  Recipes  for  making  excellent  stocks 
(including  white  stock  or  blond  de  Veau,  and  a  good  brown  stock)  are 
given  on  the  following  pages.  The  stock-pot  should  supply  stock  for 
sauces,  stews  and  gravies,  and  we  will  now  indicate  how  a  careful  cook 
can  always  have  stock  on  hand  with  little  or  no  extra  expense. 

The  first  consideration  is  the  stock-pot.  A  well-tinned  stock-pot 
with  a  tap  is  to  be  recommended  ;  the  tap  permits  the  stock  to  be  drawn 
off  without  any  admixture  of  grease,  all  the  fat  rising  to  the  top  of  the 
stock-pot.  For  small  households  the  earthenware  stock-pot  will  be 
found  useful,  as  a  very  small  amount  of  heat  is  required  to  keep  its 
contents  at  simmering  point. 

The  materials  that  may  be  put  into  the  stock-pot  are  bones  and  the 
trimmings  of  meat,  cooked  or  uncooked  ;  poultry,  giblets,  poultry  bones, 
game  bones,  the  rinds  and  bones  of  bacon,  the  remains  of  gravies,  but 
not  sauces  thickened  with  flour — the  latter  make  the  stock  cloudy. 
Scraps  of  raw  vegetables,  if  fresh  and  suitable,  may  be  added  in  cold 
weather  ;  cooked  vegetables  must  not  be  used  for  they  are  liable  to 
turn  sour,  especially  in  warm  weather. 

Fat  should  never  be  put  into  the  stock-pot,  but  marrow  from  bones 
is  often  introduced  in  small  quantity.  Flour  and  anything  thickened 
with  flour  or  potatoes  must  also  be  carefully  excluded. 

When  using  a  metal  stock-pot  the  stock  should  be  emptied  and 
strained  every  night  into  an  earthenware  vessel.  In  starting  it  the 
following  morning  the  pieces  of  meat  and  bones  from  which  all  the  good- 
ness has  been  extracted  should  be  discarded,  and  the  rest  returned  to 
the  stock-pot  with  the  stock  or  fresh  water. 

Fresh  meat  used  for  stock  need  not  be  washed,  but  should  be  wiped 
with  a  damp  cloth  before  being  cut  up. 


SOUPS  137 

Any  unused  stock  should  be  boiled  up  every  day  in  hot  weather, 
and  in  cooler  weather  every  second  or  third  day. 

MEAT   GLAZE. 

Any  kind  of  rich  meat  stock,  especially  such  as  contains  a  good  pro- 
portion of  gelatinous  substance,  can  be  reduced  to  half  glaze,  or  ^la/«- 
gravy  that  sets  to  the  thickness  of  jelly.  This  is  effected  by  rapid 
boiling,  and  frequent  skimming  to  ensure  its  being  clear,  until  the 
desired  consistency  has  been  reached. 

Glaze  is  used  for  improving  the  appearance  of  meats,  galantines, 
pies,  etc.,  and  is  very  handy  for  enriching  soups  and  sauces,  which 
frequently  require  additional  strength  and  flavour. 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  RECIPES  FOR  SOUPS. 

The  vegetables  named  in  the  recipes  are  supposed  to  be  of  moderate 
size,  but  two  smaller  ones,  or  half  a  larger  one  may  be  used  instead. 
To  avoid  repetition,  they  are  spoken  of  as  "  prepared,"  meaning  thai 
the  onions  have  been  peeled,  the  carrots  scraped  and  the  turnips  pared. 
As  the  fibre  on  the  outside  of  the  turnip  is  very  tough  and  thick 
it  is  advisable,  and  not  extravagant,  to  take  off  a  THICK  PARING. 
On  the  other  hand,  potatoes  should  be  pared  as  thinly  as  possible, 
because  the  outer  part  contains  the  most  valuable  and  nutritious  part 
of  the  potato. 

A  bouquet-garni  is  a  small  bunch  of  mixed  herbs,  such  as  parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf,  basil  and  majoram.  Sparingly  used,  these  herbs 
improve  the  flavour  of  many  soups,  but  they  are  not  essential,  and  one 
>r  more  of  them  may  be  omitted  if  they  cannot  be  easily  procured. 

The  following  table  of  equivalents  will  enable  the  cook  to  dispense 
with  scales  in  making  many  of  the  soups  given  in  the  following  pages. 

TABLE  OF  EQUIVALENTS 

MEASURE.  ;HT. 

Flour  I    tablespoonful  (heaped) i  oz. 

Rice  I  „  (level) I     ,, 

Semolina  I  ,,  ,, I     ,, 

Tapioca  and   Sago      I  ,,  ,, I     ,, 

\  piece  of  butter  or  fat,  the  size  of  a  small  bgg i     ., 

Tumbler,   \   pint.       Breakfast  Cup,  £  pint.     Tea  Cup,   .}   pint. 


RECIPES  FOR  SOUPS. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 


Stock,    broths,   clear  soups,  thick  soups,  purees,   fish 
soups,  and  miscellaneous  soups. 

Stocks  for  all  Kinds  of  Soup. 

i.— BONE  STOCK. 

Any  kind  of  bones,  cooked  or  uncooked,  may  be  used  to  make  bore 
stock.  Put  them  in  a  small  stew-pan  or  small  stock-pot,  add  enougl 
water  to  well  cover,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Skim,  add  a  peeled  onion,  a 
carrot  and  a  bay-leaf,  and  simmer  for  2  or  3  hours.  Season  to  taste  with 
salt.  This  stock  may  be  used  in  place  of  water  for  making  gravy 
soups,  and  sauces. 

2.— BROWN  STOCK.     (Very  good). 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  shin  or  neck  of  beef,  i  Ib.  of  knuckle  of  veal 

3  or  4  Ib.  of  bones  (beef  and  veal),  the  necks,  cleaned  feet,  the  gizzards 
and  livers  of  a  chicken  or  a  fowl,  2  carrots,  2  onions,  i  turnip,  a  strif 
of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme   bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns 

4  cloves,  i  tablespoonful  of  salt,  8  quarts  of  water. 

Method. — Cut  up  the  meat,  and  break  the  bones  into  small  pieces 
cover  with  cold  water,  put  in  the  salt  and  let  it  stand  for  an  hour,  ther 
bring  gently  to  boiling  point.  Remove  the  scum  as  it  rises,  and  wher 
quite  clear  put  in  the  herbs  and  vegetables,  which  should  previously 
have  been  prepared,  and  cut  into  large  pieces,  or  if  small,  left  whole 
if  they  are  cut  small  and  break  up,  they  are  apt  to  make  the  stocl 
cloudy.  Let  the  stock  boil  up  after  putting  in  the  vegetables  and  skin 
well,  then  put  on  the  lid,  draw  to  the  side  of  the  stove  and  sin; me 
VERY  GENTLY  for  5  or  6  hours.  Any  fat  which  rises  to  the  surfac' 
during  the  process  of  simmering  should  be  carefully  skimmed  off  wit! 
a  spoon.  When  sufficiently  cooked,  strain  the  stock  through  a  hai 
sieve  into  a  basin,  and  when  cold  take  off  the  fat,  which  can  be  clarifie< 
and  used  for  frying.  The  meat  and  bones  should  be  covered  wit' 
water  and  boiled  down  for  "  second  "  or  "  ordinary  "  stock. 

Stock  made  according  to  this  recipe  could,  after  being  cleared,  be  use 


STOCKS    FOR  ALL    KINDS    OF  SOUP  139 

for  any  clear  soup,  which  would  take  its  name  from  the  garnish  served 
with  it. 

Time. — 6  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  per  quart. 

This  should  produce  about  6  quarts  of  stock. 

3.— BROWN  STOCK.     (Economical). 

Ingredients. — 4  Ib.  of  raw  or  cooked  bones,  the  neck,  cleaned  feet, 
gizzards  and  liver  of  a  chicken,  the  bones  and  rind  of  ham  or  bacon, 
2  onions  sliced,  2  carrots  sliced,  i  turnip  sliced,  a  strip  of  celery  cut 
into  small  pieces,  2  ozs.  of  butter  or  sweet  dripping,  12  peppercorns, 
2  cloves,  i  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  I  quart  of  water  to  each  Ib.  of 
meat  and  bone. 

Method. — Clean  and  peel  the  vegetables.  Make  the  fat  hot  in  a  large 
stewpan,  chop  or  break  the  bones  into  small  pieces,  drain  the  vegetables 
thoroughly.  Place  the  bones,  herbs  and  vegetables  in  the  hot  fat, 
put  on  the  cover  of  the  stewpan,  and  fry  gently  until  the  whole  is  quite 
brown,  stirring  and  turning  the  ingredients  occasionally  to  prevent 
anything  becoming  overcooked.  Put  in  the  cold  water,  salt,  pepper- 
corns and  cloves,  let  it  come  gently  to  the  boil,  and  remove  the  scum 
as  it  rises.  When  clear,  put  on  the  cover  and  simmer  gently  for  5  or  6 
hours.  Some  of  the  fat  used  in  frying  will  rise  to  the  surface  during 
the  process  of  simmering  and  should  be  taken  off  with  a  spoon.  When 
done,  strain  through  a  sieve  into  a  large  basin,  and  when  cold,  remove 
the  fat. 

Soup  made  from  this  stock  may  not  have  the  transparent  brilliancy 
of  that  made  from  the  previous  recipe,  but  if  gently  simmered  and  care- 
fully cleared  it  is  quite  good  enough  for  ordinary  purposes.  Frying  the 
bones  and  vegetables  before  adding  the  water  greatly  improves  the 
flavour  and  colour. 

Time. — 6  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d.  per  quart. 

i  Ib.  of  solid  material  employed  for  stock  should  produce  about 
i£  pints  of  stock. 

4.— BROWNING  FOR  STOCK. 

The  best  way  to  get  brown  stock  is  to  fry  the  meat  and  bones 
in  a  little  fat,  as  directed  in  the  foregoing  recipe.  Another  way  to 
colour  stock  or  any  kind  of  soup  or  sauce  is  to  add  a  few  drops  of 
caramel.  This  is  obtained  by  boiling  £  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar  with  $  a 
gill  of  water  until  it  is  a  dark  brown,  almost  blade  colour.  Then  add 
a  gill  of  cold  water,  and  boil  again  till  it  acquires  the  consistency  of 
thick  syrup.  Put  it  in  a  bottle  and  use  as  required;  it  will  keep  for  any 
length  of  time. 

5.— FISH  STOCK. 

Ingredients.— 2  Ib.  of  any  inexpensive  white  fish,  such  as  plaice  or 


I4o         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

flounders  (the  bones  and  trimmings  of  fish  will  serve),  i  onion  sliced,  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  12  white 
peppercorns,  I  teaspoonful  of  salt,  2  quarts  of  water. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  together  into  a  clean  stewpan,  and 
simmer  gently  for  i  hour  from  the  time  the  stock  begins  to  cook,  when 
all  that  is  desirable  will  have  been  extracted.  Further  cooking  some- 
times imparts  a  disagreeably  bitter  taste  to  the  stock.  The  stock 
should  be  well  skimmed,  strained,  and  put  into  a  basin  For  thick 
soups  and  sauces  it  is  ready  for  immediate  use,  but  for  clear  fish  stock 
(which  is  very  rarely  used),  it  would  be  necessary  to  clarify  it  with  the 
whites  and  shells  of  eggs,  allowing  4  to  each  quart  of  stock. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  per  quart.  Quantity,  about  3  pints 
of  stock. 


6.— GRAVY  STOCK. 


add 


Chop  up,  rather  small,  some  bones  from  roast  meat,  fry  them 
brown  in  a  pan  with  a  little  dripping;    pour  off  all  the  fat,  and 
enough  stock  or  water  to  cover  the  bones.     Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.     Strain  and  use  as  required. 


7.— SECOND  STOCK. 

The  bones  and  meat  used  for  making  stock,  and  the  meat  used 
clearing  consomme  (clear  soup)  should  be  covered  with  cold  water 
and  cooked  for  several  hours  to  make  what  is  known  as  "  second," 
or  "  ordinary  "  stock.  Neither  seasoning  nor  flavouring  is  added,  as 
this  second  stock  forms  the  basis  of  soups,  stews,  and  sauces  which 
have  a  distinct  flavour  of  their  own. 

8.— VEGETABLE  STOCK. 

Ingredients. — 3  carrots,  2  onions,  i  turnip,  2  tomatoes,  i  stick  of  celery, 
i  head  of  lettuce,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  a  blade 
of  mace,  12  peppercorus,  2  cloves,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  2  quarts  of  water, 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  onions,  turnips  and  carrots  into  thin  slices,  and  the 
celery  into  small  pieces.  Make  the  butter  hot  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the 
vegetables  and  fry  gently  for  £  an  hour,  keeping  the  stewpan  covered. 
In  the  meantime  shred  the  lettuce,  and  when  the  vegetables  are  suffi- 
ciently cooked,  add  it, together  with  the  tomatoes  (sliced),  herbs,  flavour- 
ings, seasonings  and  water,  and  bring  gently  to  the  boil.  Skim  off 
the  scum  as  it  rises,  then  cover  and  simmer  gently  for  i^  hours,  strain, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Time.— 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  $d.  per  quart.  Quantity,  about  2 
quarts. 


STOCKS  FOR  ALL  KINDS  OF  SOUP  141 

9.—WHITE,  or  VEAL  STOCK.   (Fr.—  Blond  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 4  Ib.  of  knuckle  of  veal,  the  neck  and  cleaned  feet  of 
a  chicken,  the  bones  of  a  chicken  (or  one  shilling's  worth  of  veal  bones 
and  an  old  fowl),  2  carrots,  2  onions,  i  turnip,  i  strip  of  celery,  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns,  2  cloves,  I  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  i  quart  to  each  Ib.  of  meat  and  bone. 

Method. — Cut  up  the  meat  and  break  the  bones  into  small  pieces, 
put  them  into  a  large  stewpan  with  the  salt  and  water,  and  let  them 
stand  for  about  i  hour.  Bring  gently  to  boiling  point,  remove  the 
scum  as  it  rises,  and  when  the  stock  is  quite  clear  put  in  the  herbs  and 
vegetables,  which  should  previously  have  been  prepared  and  cut  into 
large  pieces,  or  if  small  left  whole.  Let  the  stock  boil  up  after  putting 
in  the  vegetables  and  skim  well  until  clear,  then  put  on  the  cover,  draw 
the  pan  to  the  side  of  the  stove  and  simmer  VERY  GENTLY  for  5  or  6  hours, 
taking  care  to  skim  off  the  fat  as  it  rises.  When  sufficiently  cooked, 
strain  off,  and  when  cold  remove  the  fat. 

Time. — 6  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  per  quart.     Quantity, — 4  quarts. 

Note. — The  liquor  in  which  chicken,  veal,  rabbit,  calf's  head  or  mutton  has 
been  boiled  makes  excellent  stock  for  white  soups  ;  and  the  cold  remains  of  any 
of  these  ingredients  may  be  made  into  second  stock,  which,  if  not  very  rich, 
is  obviously  better  than  water  in  making  the  inexpensive  white  soups. 

io.— TO    CLARIFY   STOCK    FOR   CLEAR   SOUP,  or 
CONSOMME 

The  following  is  a  simple  way  by  which  any  cloudy  stock  can 
be  clarified  or  rendered  transparent.  Peel,  wash  and  cut  up  small  the 
following  prepared  vegetables:  £  an  onion  or  £  a  leek,  i  small 
carrot,  a  piece  of  celery  or  some  celery  leaves  ;  put  these  into  a 
clean  and  dry  stewpan,  with  a  sprig  of  thyme  and  marjoram,  a 
sprig  or  two  of  tarragon,  chervil,  6  peppercorns,  the  white  and 
shell  of  an  egg  (the  egg  shell  must  be  clean),  a  little  lemon-juice 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar.  Stir  this  with  a  whisk,  and  add  £  to 
£  of  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  lean  beef,  moistened  with  a  little  cold  water, 
thru  put  in  the  stock  (2  to  3  quarts),  which  should  be  cold  and  free 
from  fat.  Bring  it  to  the  boil  whilst  whisking,  remove  from  the  fire, 
and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  about  20  to  30  minutes.  Season  to  taste 
with  salt,  etc.,  and  strain  through  a  cloth. 

Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  per  quart. 

THE  LAUREL,  or  BAY  (Fr.  laurier).—  There   are  two  varieties  of  the  laurel  chiefly  cultivated  in 
gardens,  the  sweet  bay— the  noble  or  victor's  laurel,  whose  berry-bearing  sprays  \\vn-  u-t-d  in  classic 
decorate  competitors  in  the  national  games — and  the  common  or  cherry-laurel,  which  is  not 
a  true  laurel,  whose  leaves  are  employed  for  their  kernel-like  flavour,  for  blanc-ni.umi-;.  custards 
puddings,  etc.     By  the  action  of  water  upon  the  leaves  of  the  cherry-laurel  pru-  .  eloped  ; 

care  should  therefore  be  taken  to  use  the  leaves  with  great  moderation. 


142  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Broths. 

ii.— BEEF  BROTH.     (Fr.— Croute-au-pot.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  good  first  stock  (see  Recipe  No.  3,  p.  139), 
i  carrot,  i  turnip,  |-  a  cabbage,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dinner  roll,  parsley 
or  chives,  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg  to  season. 

Method. — The  stock  should  be  made  from  beef  and  veal  bones,  well 
skimmed,  but  not  necessarily  clarified.  The  vegetables,  after  being 
washed  and  pared,  may  be  cooked  whole  in  the  stock-pot. 

Cut  the  carrot  and  turnip  into  round  slices,  drain  the  cabbage  and 
cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Put  all  the  vegetables  in  a  stewpan  with  the 
butter,  cover,  and  cook  slowly  for  about  10  minutes.  Season  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Strain  the  stock  on  to  the 
vegetables,  let  them  simmer  for  about  30  minutes,  and  skim  occasion- 
ally. Cut  the  roll  into  thin  round  slices,  place  them  on  a  baking  sheet, 
bake  them  on  both  sides  a  golden  brown  in  a  moderate  oven,  put  them 
in  a  soup  tureen,  moisten  with  a  little  stock,  pour  the  soup  over,  sprinkle 
over  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  or  chives,  and  serve. 

Average  Cost. — 2s.  6d.  Seasonable  at  all  times.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
persons. 

THE  CARROT  (Fr.  carotte)  is  a  biennial  plant  of  the  natural  order  Umbelliferae.  In  its  natural  state 
the  root  is  small,  tapering,  of  a  white  colour,  and  strongly  flavoured.  It  is  indigenous  to  Britain  and 
most  parts  of  Europe,  was  cultivated  in  England  as  early  as  the  sixteenth  century,  and  has  also 
been  grown  in  North  America  and  China.  The  cultivated  variety  of  the  carrot  varies  in  colour  from 
pale-yellow  to  orange-red,  the  latter  being  the  more  esteemed.  The  carrot  is  not  very  nutritive, 
containing  but  few  flesh-forming  constituents ;  it  has,  however,  a  large  proportion  of  saccharine 
matter.  It  is  slightly  laxative.  The  leaves  of  the  carrot  have  an  elegant  feathery  appearance,  and 
a  pretty  winter  ornament  may  be  made  by  placing  the  cut  top  of  a  carrot  in  a  shallow  vessel  of  water, 
when  the  young  leaves  will  spring  forth,  and  grow  with  a  pleasant  freshness. 

12.— BOUILLON  (BEEF  BROTH). 

This  is  the  same  as  Pot-au-feu  (see  Recipe  No.  17,  p.  144),  using  the 
broth,  which  should  be  seasoned  and  served  in  cups,  with  a  few 
thin  sippets  of  bread,  and  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley. 

13.— CHICKEN  BROTH.    (Fr.— Bouillon  de  Volatile.) 

Ingredients. — i  chicken,  2  quarts  of  cold  water,  i  small  onion,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  blade  of  mace,  i  tablespoonful 
of  rice  (this  may  be  omitted),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  chicken  into  small  pieces,  break  the  bones,  scald 
and  skin  the  feet  and  gizzard,  and  wash  the  neck  and  liver.  Put  these 
into  a  stewpan,  add  the  water  and  %  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  bring  to  the 
boil,  and  skim.  Add  the  onion  and  mace,  and  cook  slowly  for  3  hours, 
Strain,  return  to  the  stewpan,  bring  to  the  boil,  sprinkle  in  the  rice, 
and  simmer  for  20  minutes.  Add  the  parsley,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 3|-  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  BROTH  143 

14.— CHICKEN   BROTH,   CHIFFONADE  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Consomme  de  Volaille  a  la  Chiffonade.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  fowl,  3  quarts  of  white  stock  (see    Recipe  No. 
9,  p.  141),  3  ozs.  of  butter,  2  leeks,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),   i   long  lettuce,  a  handful  of  sorrel,  £  a  handful  of  cl. 
pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  fowl  into  small  joints,  put  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  when  hot  put  in  the  pieces  of  chicken,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  fry  slightly  brown,  add  the  stock,  boil  up  and  skim, 
add  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  the  bouquet-garni,  and  the  leeks  (previ- 
ously dressed).     Simmer  gently  for  2  hours.     Wash  the  sorrel,  chervil 
and  lettuce  (use  the  tender  leaves  only  of  the  latter),  cut  all   these 
vegetables  into  very  fine  strips,  put  them  together  with  i  oz.  of  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  stir  gently  over  a  fire  for  10  minutes,  moisten  with  some 
of  the  broth,  skim  and  cook  for  15  minutes.     Strain  the  remain 
the  broth  into  this  and  season  to  taste.     Cut  some  neat  pieces  of  c! 
and  put  into  a  tureen,  pour  in  the  soup,  and  serve. 

Time. — 3  hours.     Average  Cost. — 6s.     Sufficient  for  8  persons. 

CHERVIL  (Fr.  cerfeuil). — The  leaves  of  this  plant  are  used  for  salads  and  as  an  ingredient  in  soups. 
It  is  native  to  some  of  the  countries  of  Europe,  and  has  become  naturalized  in  England.      I 
different  varieties  of  the  chervil,  the  parsnip-chervil,  sweet  chervil,  aui-e  chervil, 
vated  chervil  may  be  distinguished  from  the  common  wild  chervil,  which  is  poisonous,  by  the  pleasant 
aromatic  fragrance  of  its  leaves,  those  of  the  wild  variety  having  a  disagreeable  smell. 

15.— COCKIE   LEEKIE.     (Fr.—  Soupe  aux  Poireaux.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  good  white  stock,  i  small  fowl,  a  bunch  of 
leeks,  a  bouquet-garni   (parsley,   thyme,   bay-leaf),  salt   and  p- 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked,  well-dried  rice,  2  ozs.  of  butter. 

Method. — Cut  the  fowl  into  small  joints.     Melt  the  butter  in  .1 
pan,  and  fry  the  pieces  of  fowl  until  nicely  browned.     Pour  off  the 
butter,  add  the  stock,  boil  up  slowly,  and  remove  the  scum 
Wash  the  leeks,  cut  off  the  green  parts,  parboil  them  in  salt  and  water, 
and  drain  well.     Strain  the  soup  aft<  i  cooked  for  £  an  hour, 

return  it  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  leeks,  herbs,  and  t 
cut  into  dice  or  cubes.     Simmer  gently  for  i  hour,  then  take  out  the 
herbs.     Skim  off  the  fat,  add  the  cooked  rice,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
and  si 

Time.— About   2  hours.     Average   Cost,  35.    to    35.  6d.    without    the 
stock.     Seasonable  in  the  Autumn.     Sufficient  for  10  persons. 

—Without  the  fowl  the  above,  which  would  then  be  merely  called 
leek  soup,  is  very  good,  and  also  economical. 

THE  LFFK  (Fr.  :  Forreau).— This  is  a  perennial  culinary  vegetable  of  the  genus  AlUum  or  onion 

uildcr  flavour.     The  stem  of  the  leek  is  somewhat  tall,  and  its  large  compact  balls  of  flower* 

are  supported  on  purple  peduncles.     The  leek  has  been  cultivated  in  Britain  from  the  earliest  times, 

f  food  of  the  ancient  Egyptians.     It  is  specially  cultivated  in  Scotland 

and  Wales.     The  leek  is  the  badge  of  th-  ;ion  ascribing  to  St.  David,  the  patron  saint  of 

to  that  part  of  Britain     The  leek  is  a  most  wholesome  vegetable,  and  is  largely 
used  for  soups  and  stews. 


144  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

16.— FRENCH  FAMILY  SOUP.  (Ft.—  Croute  au  Pot.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  good  beef  stock,  i  carrot,  ^  a  turnip,  £  a 
small  cabbage,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
salt  and  pepper,  nutmeg,  i  dinner  roll. 

Method. — Parboil  the  cabbage,  carrot  and  turnip,  and  drain  we2l. 
Cut  the  cabbage  into  small  pieces,  and  the  other  vegetables  into  small 
rounds  or  squares.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  large  stewpan,  put  ID  the 
vegetables,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  cover  and 
cook  slowly  for  about  10  minutes.  Add  the  stock  and  simmer  gently 
for  \  an  hour.  Cut  the  roll  into  thin  round  slices,  brown  them  in 
the  oven,  then  put  them  into  the  tureen,  and  add  the  chopped  parsley. 
Season  the  soup  if  necessary,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  8  persons. 

PARSLEY  (Fr.  pcrsil). — This  well-known  culinary  vegetable,  with  its  fresh  crisp  aromatic  leaves, 
has  been  long  cultivated  for  seasoning  and  garnishing  dishes.  Its  native  country  is  uncertain,  but 
it  was  known  to  the  Greeks,  who  awarded  a  crown  of  parsley  to  victors  in  the  Nemaean  and  Isthmian 
games ;  and  the  poet  Anacreon  uses  this  herb  as  the  symbol  of  joy  and  festivity.  It  was  probably 
introduced  into  Britain  during  the  sixteenth  century.  There  are  several  varieties  of  parsley,  the 
curled-leaved,  celery-leaved,  and  Hamburg-parsley ;  the  more  curled  varieties  are  used  for 
garnishing.  Celery-leaved  parsley  is  sometimes  grown  for  its  leaf  stalks,  which  are  blanched  and  used 
in  the  same  manner  as  celery.  Hamburg-parsley  is  cultivated  only  for  its  roots,  which  are  eaten  with 
meat  as  parsnips  or  carrots. 

17.— FRENCH  HOTCH  POTCH.     (Fr.-Pot-au-Feu.) 

Ingredients. — 5  quarts  of  cold  water,  4  Ib.  of  brisket,  rump,  or  leg  oi 
beef  (not  the  shin,  which  is  too  tough  for  this  purpose),  3  onions, 
leeks,  2  carrots,  i  turnip,  i  parsnip,  i  small  head  of  celery,  i  srm 
cabbage,  20  peppercorns,  4  cloves,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper, 
i  or  2  French  rolls. 

Method. — Tie  the  meat  to  keep  it  in  shape,  and  put  it  and  the  water 
into  a  large  stewpan  (an  earthenware  one  with  a  close-fitting  lid  answers 
admirably).  •  When  it  boils,  add  a  dessertspoonful  of  salt  and  let  it 
simmer  gently  for  2  hours.  Meanwhile  prepare  the  vegetables,  bu( 
leave  the  carrots,  turnip,  and  parsnip  whole,  unless  very  large,  whei 
they  should  be  cut  into  2  or  3  pieces.  Quarter  the  celery,  and  remove 
the  outer  stalks,  cut  the  cabbage  in  two,  trim,  and  wash  it  well,  the 
tie  the  two  halves  together.  When  the  meat  has  been  boiling  for  2 
hours,  put  in  the  bouquet-garni,  cloves  (stuck  in  one  of  the  onions) 
peppercorns,  and  all  the  vegetables,  but  only  a  few  at  a  time  so  that 
the  temperature  of  the  stock  is  not  too  much  reduced.  Cut  the  crust 
of  the  French  rolls  into  small  rounds,  and  either  fry  them  or  crisp  them 
in  the  oven.  Continue  the  cooking  for  2  hours,  after  adding  the  vege- 
tables, then  strain  some  of  the  soup  into  a  tureen,  cut  a  little  carrot, 
turnip,  and  leek  into  dice  or  cubes,  and  add  them,  with  the  chopj 


&ECIPES    FOR    BROTHS  ±45 

parsley  and  fried  bread,  to  the  soup  in  the  tureen,  and  serve.  Place 
the  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  with  the  rest  of  the  vegetables. 
Serve  the  cabbage  separately  in  a  vegetable  dish. 

Time. — 4  to  4^  hours.     Average  Cost,  35.  to  35.  6d.     Seasonable  at  any 
time.     Sufficient  for  8  or  10  persons. 

THE  POT-AU-FEU  figures  as  a  standing  dish  in  France,  Germany,  and  Switzerland.  It  is  really  the 
stock-pot,  and  is  in  use  from  early  morning  until  dinner-time,  therefore  the  basis  of  a  pot-an-fiu  i>  tin- 
stock  already  in  the  pot,  which  is  daily  being  added  to  and  taken  from.  The  meat  and  soup  are  not 
necessarily  served  at  one  meal  or  served  up  in  the  manner  described,  for  the  meat  is  sometimes  cut 
into  rather  thick  slices  and  served  covered  with  a  good  brown  or  piquant  sauce. 


18.— HOTCH   POTCH.       (Fr.— Hotch   Potch   a   1'An- 
glaise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  water,  2  Ib.  of  neck  of  mutton,  i  onion, 
i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  £  a  pint  of  shelled  peas,  i  small  cauliflower,  i  good 
lettuce,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  neat  pieces,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  the  cold  water,  bring  slowly  to  the  boil,  and 
skim  well.  Meanwhile,  shred  the  lettuce  finely  (taking  care  to  shorten 
the  filaments  by  cutting  them  across),  cut  off  the  stalk  of  the  cauli- 
flower, and  break  the  flower  into  small  sprigs,  cut  the  turnip,  carrot, 
and  onion  into  dice  or  cubes.  Let  the  meat  simmer  gently  for  i  hour, 
then  put  in  the  onion,  carrot,  and  lettuce  ;  %  an  hour  afterwards  add 
the  turnip,  peas,  and  cauliflower,  and  cook  slowly  for  i  hour,  or  until 
all  the  vegetables  are  tender,  then  add  the  chopped  parsley,  season  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  2d.  Seasonable  in 
Summer.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


19.— LEEK  SOUP.      (Fr.— Potage  aux  Poireaux.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  sheep's  head  broth  (see  recipe  No.  26,  p.  148), 
6  leeks  finely  shredded,  i  good  tablespoonful  of  medium  or  coarse 
oatmeal,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  broth  as  directed,  then  strain  and  replace  it  in 
the  saucepan.  Bring  to  the  boil,  sprinkle  in  the  oatmeal,  add  the 
prepared  leeks,  and  boil  gently  until  quite  tender.  Season  to  taste, 
and  serve. 

Time. — From  £  to  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  stock. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 


146  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

20.— MUTTON  BROTH.     (Fr.— Bouillon  de  Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  cold  water,  i^  Ib.  of  neck  of  mutton,  i  small 
carrot,  \  a  turnip,  i  onion,  i  strip  of  celery,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  tablespoonful  of  rice  or  pearl-barley,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Remove  all  the  fat  and  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces. 
Put  the  water  into  a  stewpan,  add  the  meat,  bones  and  a  little  salt, 
bring  slowly  to  the  boil,  and  skim  well.  If  pearl-barley  is  used,  blanch 
it  by  putting  it  into  cold  water  and  bringing  to  the  boil.  Cut  the 
vegetables  into  rather  small  dice  or  cubes,  and  add  them  to  the  broth 
when  it  has  cooked  for  i  hour  :  add  also  the  pearl-barley.  When  the 
broth  has  simmered  gently  for  3  hours,  strain  and  return  to  the  sauce- 
pan. Carefully  remove  any  fragments  of  bone  from  the  meat,  vege- 
tables and  pearl-barley,  and  return.  When  boiling,  sprinkle  in  the 
parsley.  Season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 3  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  id.  to  is.  3d.  Seasonable  at 
any  time.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

21.  -  MUTTON  BROTH.       (Fr.— Bouillon  de  Mouton.) 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 3  quarts  of  cold  water,  3  Ib.  of  the  scrag  end  of  the  neck 
of  mutton,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  2  or  3  sprigs 
of  parsley,  2  ozs.  of  pearl-barley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  the  vegetables  (cut  up  small),  parsley,  water,  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  simmer  for  3  hours.  Blanch  and  parboil  the  pearl-barley  ; 
cut  one  or  two  nice  turnips  into  small  dice  (about  |-  a  pint).  Strain  the 
broth,  return  it  to  the  stewpan,  add  the  pearl-barley  and  turnip  dice, 
and  cook  very  gently  for  40  to  60  minutes.  Cut  some  of  the  best 
pieces  of  mutton  into  neat  squares,  and  add  them  to  the  broth  to  re- 
heat. Season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  Seasonable  at  any 
time.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 

22.— OKRA  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  buttoek  steak,  2  oz.  of  butter,  i  onion,  i  pint  of 
okras,  2  quarts  of  stock. 

Fry  i  Ib.  of  buttock  steak,  cut  into  small  pieces,  in  butter  or 
dripping.  To  this  add  a  few  slices  of  onion,  fry  both  a  nice  brown. 
Next  add  i  pint  of  okras  (sliced),  and  moisten  with  2  quarts  of  stock  or 
water.  Simmer  for  2  hours,  season,  strain  and  serve. 

Time. — 2^  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.    Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


RECIPES   FOR   BROTHS  147 

23.— PAN  KAIL.     (Fr.— Soupe  Maigre  aux  Choux.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  boiling  water,  3  ozs.  of  butter  or  fat,  i  small 
cabbage  shredded,  i  heaped  tablespoonful  of  medium  or  coarse  oatmeal, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  or  fat  in  a  saucepan,  stir  in  the  prepared 
cabbage,  cook  for  5  minutes,  then  add  the  boiling  water.  Bring  to 
boiling-point,  add  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle  in  the  oat- 
meal, and  boil  gently  for  15  or  20  minutes,  or  until  the  cabbage  is 
sufficiently  cooked.  Add  more  seasoning  if  required,  then  serve. 

Time.— About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  sd.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  SAVOY  (Fr.  chou  <U  Savoit)  is  one  of  the  numerous  cultivated  forms  of  the  cabbage,  and  is 
characterized  by  its  wrinkled  leaves.  It  is  close-hearted,  sweet  and  tender,  especially  the  middle 
leaves.  The  savoy  is  in  season  from  late  autumn  to  spring,  and  is  improved  in  flavour  by  frost. 

24.— RABBIT    BROTH.     (Fr.— Bouillon    de    Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  water,  i  rabbit,  i-J-  Ib.  of  bacon  or  pickled 
pork,  2  onions,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  i  strip  of  celery,  i  tablespoonful 
of  rice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  rabbit,  and  if  it  is  to  be  served  separately,  keep 
it  whole  and  truss  for  boiling  (see  Chapter  on  trussing)  ;  if  not,  cut  it 
into  small  joints,  and  remove  the  liver,  etc.,  If  bacon  be  used,  let  it  be 
well  scraped,  and  soaked  in  warm  water  for  i  or  2  hours.  Cut  the  vege- 
tables into  small  dice  or  cubes.  Put  the  water  into  a  large  stewpan, 
add  the  bacon  and  rabbit,  bring  slowly  to  the  boil,  remove  the 
scum  as  it  rises,  and  when  the  rabbit  has  cooked  for  i  hour  put  in  the 
vegetables,  rice,  and  a  little  salt,  and  continue  the  cooking  for  another 
hour.  Take  out  the  rabbit,  and  if  it  is  to  be  served  separately,  have 
ready  some  onion  sauce,  or  white  sauce,  to  serve  with  it.  (See  Sauces.) 
If  the  rabbit  has  been  cut  into  joints,  take  them  out  of  the  stewpan, 
remove  the  meat  from  the  bone,  cut  it  into  small  dice,  and  return  to  the 
broth  to  be  re-heated.  Cut  a  little  of  the  bacon  also  into  dice  :  the 
rest  can  be  used  cold.  Season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 2±  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  23.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  Seasonable  in 
Winter.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

25.— SCOTCH  BROTH.     (Fr.— Bouillon  Ecossais.) 

Ingredients. — 3  quarts  of  cold  water,  3  Ib.  scrag  end  of  mutton, 
i  onion,  i  leek,  i  carrot,  i  turnip,  a  strip  of  celery,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  Scotch  barley,  salt  and 
pepper. 


148  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  the  water  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  cook  gently  for  2  hours. 
Wash  the  barley,  cut  the  vegetables  into  dice,  add  them  to  the  broth 
and  cook  for  another  hour,  making  3  hours  in  all.  Strain  and  return 
the  broth  to  the  stewpan.  Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  carefully 
remove  any  fragments  of  bone  from  the  vegetables  and  barley,  and 
add  them  to  the  broth.  When  quite  hot,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  Seasonable  in  Winter. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 


THE  SHEEP  (Fr.  brebis)  has  from  the  earliest  times  been  one  of  the  most  useful  of  animals  to  man, 
its  wool,  skin  and  flesh  supplying  him  respectively  with  material  for  clothing,  leather  and  food ;  its 
milk  in  some  countries  is  used  for  making  butter  and  cheese.  There  are  numerous  varieties  of  the 
domestic  sheep,  a  ruminant  quadruped  of  the  genus  Otis  :  wild  sheep  are  found  chiefly  in  mountainous 
districts.  The  principal  breeds  of  English  sheep  are  the  Southdown,  Leicester,  Cotswold,  Cheviot 
and  the  Welsh.  Of  the  numerous  foreign  breeds,  the  fat-tailed  sheep  of  Asia  and  Egypt,  the  Astra- 
kan,  the  Cretan,  the  Iceland  and  the  Merino,  are  the  most  noticeable,  the  last  named  originally 
belonging  to  Spain,  but  now  extensively  bred  in  other  countries  of  Europe  and  in  Australia  and  New 
Zealand,  furnishing  the  valuable  merino  wool.  The  flesh  of  the  sheep,  or  mutton,  is  tender  and 
easy  of  digestion,  and  possesses  highly  nutritive  properties.  Large  quantities  of  foreign  mutton  are 
now  imported  into  England  principally  from  Australia  and  New  Zealand  by  means  of  cold  storage 
in  transit.  The  New  Zealand  mutton  is  of  excellent  quality,  and  has  an  extensive  sale.  The  small 
Welsh  mutton  is  much  esteemed.  The  quality  of  the  flesh  of  the  sheep  is  largely  dependent  on  the 
pastorage  and  food  stuffs  on  which  it  is  fed. 

26.  —SHEEP'S  HEAD  BROTH.       (Fr.  Potage  de  Tete 
de  Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — 3  quarts  of  water,  i  sheep's  head,  2  carrots,  2  onions, 
i  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
salt,  i  tablespoonful  of  rice. 

Method. — Remove  the  brains  and  tongue,  and  soak  the  head  in  salt 
and  water  for  12  hours,  changing  the  water  repeatedly.  Put  it  into 
a  large  saucepan  with  a  good  handful  of  salt,  cover  with  water,  bring 
to  the  boil,  strain,  and  wash  well.  Return  it  to  the  saucepan,  add 
the  water,  and  bring  to  the  boil,  skim  thoroughly,  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  then  simmer  for  3  hours.  Meanwhile  cut  the  vegetables  into 
dice,  and  now  add  them  and  the  rice  to  the  broth.  Continue  the 
cooking  for  another  hour,  then  take  up  the  head,  cut  the  meat  into 
dice  and  return  it  to  the  broth  and  simmer  for  a  few  minutes.  Take 
out  the  herbs,  add  seasoning  to  taste,  and  serve. 

The  brains  can  be  used  for  brain  cakes,  and  the  tongue  cooked  and 
served  separately.  Only  a  small  portion  of  the  head  need  be  served 
in  the1  broth  ;  the  rest  could  be  served  separately,  garnished  with  the 
tongue,  and  covered  with  brain  sauce. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Seasonable  at  any 
time,  particularly  in  Winter,  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR   BROTHS  140 

27.—SCOTCH  KAIL.        (Fr.— Potage  au  choux  ecos- 
sais.) 

Ingredients.— 3  quarts  of  cold  water,  3  Ib.  of  mutton,  3  onions  (cut 
into  dice  or  cubes),  2  leeks  when  procurable,  the  hearts  of  2  white 
cabbages,  salt  and  pepper,  i  oz.  of  pearl-barley. 

Method. — Keep  the  meat  whole,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  or  earthen- 
ware stew  pot  with  the  water,  onions,  leeks,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  cook  gently  for  about  3  hours.  Blanch  the  pearl-barley  and  add 
it  when  the  meat  has  cooked  for  i  hour.  Wash  the  cabbages,  shred 
them  finely,  and  put  them  into  the  stewpot  i  hour  before  the  meat  is 
to  be  served.  Take  up  the  meat,  cut  some  of  it  into  small  pi. 
and  place  these  in  a  soup  tureen.  Season  the  broth,  and  s< 

Time. — About  3}  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  2S.  oxi.  Seasonable 
at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

-- Scotch   Kail  is  the  Pot-au-feit  of  Scotland,  and  hkr  its  r.mtinmt.il 
pn.tMtype   may   have   tin-   nir.it    -rrvr.l    >,.  -paratelv  .   Mr   in    '  I'-nt    »t 

•in   l'i>t-au-fiu   in   having  only  the  rum   \i--ft. il-Ic.s  ln>m   \\hKh  it 
tie  name  ot  "  kail." 

28.— VEAL  BROTH.     (Fr.— Bouillon  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  cold  water,  i|  Ib.  or  knucl 

i  small  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  i  onion,  i  strip  of  celery,     i   teaspoonful  of 
fun -ly -cluippt -il     parsley,     i    tablespoonful    of    rice    or    pearl-barley, 

.UK!  prpper. 

Method.  Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  put  them  with  the 
water  iiiin  a  str\\pan,  and  bring  slowly  to  the  boil.  Skim,  add  a  li 

ly  for   i    hour,  then  add   tli- 

latter  must  be  blanched),  and  tin-  \ »  -« -t.d.h  >  c  ut  ;  \Vhen 

!>n>ili  has  cooked  •  p  3  hours,  strain  and  return  to  t 

.      Add  the  in-  broth.     Carefully  remove  any  fragments  of 

bone  from  the  vegetables  and  :ley,  then    return  them  to   the 

Q  boiling,  sprinkle  in  the  parsley,   season    to    taste,  and 

Time.— 3  to  3^  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  3d.      Seasonable  at 

Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 


Clear  Soups. 


29.— BRUNOISE   SOUP  WITH   TAPIOCA. 

(/'>.— Consomm6   Brunoise  au  Tapioca.) 

Ingredients. —  i  carrot,  i  small  turnip,   i   lettuce,  i  leek,  |  an  onion, 
' ,   3  pint  :ne  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.   156), 

a  juice,  i  1  tapi.ica,  seasoning. 


150  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Prepare  the  vegetables  and  cut  them  into  very  small  dice 
or  cubes.  Fry  lightly  in  the  butter,  add  a  good  pinch  of  castor  sugar, 
and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Moisten  with  some  of  the  consomme. 
Cook  gently  for  about  %  an  hour,  skim,  add  the  remainder  of  the  con- 
somme, and  boil  gently  until  the  vegetables  are  tender.  Soak  the 
tapioca  in  tepid  water,  strain  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little 
consomme,  cook  till  tender,  and  mix  it  with  the  remainder  of  the  soup 
a  few  minutes  before  sending  to  table,  when  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice 
should  be  added. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  per  quart.  Sufficient  for  6 
persons. 

TAPIOCA  (Fr.  tapioca)  is  a  preparation  of  cassava  meal,  made  from  a  South  American  shrub  of  some 
8  feet  in  height,  with  broad,  shining  leaves,  and  handsome  white  and  rose-coloured  flowers.  The 
nutritious  starch  is  obtained  from  the  thick,  fleshy,  parsnip-like  roots  by  the  process  of  washing, 
maceration  and  pressure  to  express  the  juice,  which,  in  its  natural  state,  is  poisonous.  The  cassava 
meal,  while  in  the  moist  state,  is  made  into  flat  cakes  and  heated  and  dried  on  hot  plates. 

30.— CLEAR    BRUNOISE    SOUP.       (Fr.— Consomme 
Brunoise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  clear  soup  (see  Recipe  42  page  156),  i  carrot,  i 
onion,  i  turnip,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Prepare  the  vegetables  and  cut  them  into  very  small  dice 
or  cubes,  melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  dice  of  vegetables 
with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  fry  very  gently  for  a  few  minutes, 
shaking  and  tossing  them  frequently  to  prevent  them  taking  colour. 
Drain  well  to  free  them  from  butter,  add  them  to  the  hot  soup  and  sim- 
mer gently  for  1 5  minutes.  Skim  well. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook  the  vegetables,  -|  an  hour.  Average  Cost, 
33.  6d.  Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

31.— CLEAR  COLD  CHICKEN  SOUP.         (Fr.— Con- 
somme  de  Volaille  Frappe.) 

Ingredients. — i  old  hen,  i|  Ib.  of  knuckle  of  veal,  i|  Ib.  of  shin  of  beef, 
salt,  soup  vegetables,  2  cloves,  a  few  peppercorns,  i  oz.  of  butter, 

1  glass  of  sherry. 

Method. — Pluck  and  truss  the  fowl  as  for  boiling,  put  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  and  add  the  fowl  whole  as  soon  as  the  butter  is  hot; 
let  it  get  a  nice  brown,  then  add  the  meat.  Pour  on  about  a  gallon 
of  water  and  set  it  to  boil — it  must  come  slowly  to  the  boil,  and  remove 
the  scum.  Have  the  vegetables  ready  and  well  washed  (they  should 
include  i  onion  stuck  with  2  cloves,  £  a  head  of  celery,  2  carrots,  i  leek, 

2  small  turnips,  i  bay-leaf,  and  a  parsley  root,  and  put  them  in  the 
stock.     Add  a  little  salt  and  the    peppercorns,   simmer  gently  for 
about  4  hours,  or  longer;  skim  occasionally.     The  fowl  may  be  taken 


RECIPES    FOR   CLEAR   SOUPS  151 

out  after  2  hours  cooking,  and  can  be  made  use  of  for  fhe  cutlets. 
When  the  stock  is  finished  carefully  remove  the  fat  from  the  top,  and 
strain  it  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  If  carefully  cooked  it  will  be  quite 
clear,  otherwise  it  will  have  to  be  clarified.  Season  to  taste  at  the  last 
and  allow  it  to  get  cold,  then  stand  it  on  the  ice  until  required.  The 
sherry  should  be  added  just  before  sending  it  to  the  table.  This  soup 
is,  as  its  name  implies,  quite  cold  (iced).  A  handful  of  Royal  Custard 
may  be  served  in  the  consomme  if  liked. 

Average  Cost. — 55.  6d.  Sufficient  for  8  or  10  persons.  Seasonable'at  any 
time. 

BASIL  (Fr.  basilic).— This  aromatic  plant  is  a  native  of  the  East  Indies,  its  perfume  resembling 
that  of  cloves.  It  is  cultivated  as  an  aromatic  pot-herb,  and  its  leaves  are  used  for  flavouring  soup 
and  as  a  salad,  especially  by  French  cooks. 

32.  -CLEAR    DUBOURG    SOUP.     (Fr.— Consomme 
a  la  Dubourg.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  clear  soup,  a  small  savoury  custard  (see  recipe 
for  Consomme  a  la  Royale,  p.  155),  i  tablespoonful  of  cooked  rice,  i 
tablespoonful  of  cooked  green  peas. 

Method. — Prepare  the  custard  as  directed,  and  add  it  with  the  peas 
and  rice  to  the  soup  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook  the  garnish,  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost 
2s.  pd.  Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

33.— CLEAR    GAME    SOUP,    PALERMO    STYLE. 
(Fr. — Consomme  de  Gibier  a  la  Palermo.) 

Ingredients.— For  consomme  :  i  grouse,  |  a  rabbit,  2  Ib.  of  shin  of 
beef,  i  Ib.  of  lean  veal,  £  Ib.  of  raw  ham,  2  ozs.  of  dripping  or  butter, 
the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  above  meat,  poultry,  or  game,  soup 
vegetables,  2  blades  of  mace,  2  cloves,  peppercorns,  a  small  bunch 
of  herbs  (bouquet-garni),  salt,  2£  quarts  of  water,  cayenne  pepper. 

For  Garniture. — £  a  head  of  celery,  2  ozs.  of  macaroni,  game  quenelles, 
cooked  ham,  i  French  roll,  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 

^  Method.— Remove  the  breasts  from  the  grouse,  and  use  for  quenelles. 
Cut  up  the  bird  and  rabbit  into  joints,  and  the  beef  and  veal  into  pieces. 
Melt  the  dripping  in  a  large  stewpan,  put  in  the  bird,  the  rabbit  and 
the  meat,  and  fry  till  brown  over  a  quick  fire  ;  pour  off  the  fat,  add  the 
water  and  the  ham,  let  it  come  to  the  boil,  and  skim.  Put  in  the  soup 
vegetables,  consisting  of  a  small  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  a  carrot,  a 
turnip,  and  a  few  leaves  of  celery  or  leek,  together  with  any  trimmings 
bones  of  meat,  etc.  Now  add  the  bouquet  of  herbs,  mace,  pepper- 
corns, and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  simmer  gently  for  about  3  hours  or 


152         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

longer  ;  take  out  the  ham  when  done,  as  some  of  it  will  be  required 
for  garnish.  Special  attention  must  be  paid  to  the  simmering  and 
occasional  skimming  of  the  soup  in  order  to  keep  it  clear,  otherwise  it 
will  require  clarifying.  Strain  the  soup  through  a  cloth  into  a  clean 
stewpan,  and  keep  hot. 

Prepare  the  garniture  as  follows  :  Cut  the  white  portion  of  the  celery 
into  small  dice  or  strips,  cook  in  slightly  salted  water  containing  a  small 
piece  of  butter.  Cook  the  macaroni  in  salted  water,  cool  and  strain, 
then  cut  it  into  short  pieces.  Prepare  some  small  quenelles  with 
the  breast  of  grouse  and  panada  (a  culinary  paste  of  flour  and  water), 
and  poach  in  a  lit  tie  stock.  Cut  the  cooked  ham  into  strips  or  dice  the 
same  as  the  celery,  and  put  these  into  the  consomme  to  get  thoroughly 
hot.  Stamp  out  some  small  rounds  of  bread  crust  cut  from  the  roll, 
put  these  in  the  soup  tureen,  pour  over  the  consomme.  Hand  round 
the  grated  cheese  on  a  plate. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  8d.,  without  the  game. 
Sufficient  for  8  persons. 

34.— CLEAR   JARDINIERE   SOUP.       (Fr.—  Con- 
somme a  la  Jardiniere.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  clear  soup  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.  156),  2 
carrots,  I  turnip,  \  a  cucumber,  salt. 

Method. — Scrape  the  carrots,  pare  the  turnip,  but  leave  the  skin  on 
the  cucumber,  as  the  green  has  a  pleasing  effect  when  mixed  with  the 
other  vegetables.  Cut  the  vegetables  (with  a  round  cutter  sold  for  the 
purpose)  the  size  and  shape  of  peas,  and  boil  them  separately  in  slightly 
salted  water  until  tender,  taking  care  not  to  cook  them  too  much. 
Drain  well,  add  the  vegetables  to  the  boiling  soup,  simmer  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook  the  vegetables,  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost, 
2s.  4d.  Seasonable  in  Spring.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

35.— CLEAR  JULIENNE  SOUP.     (Tr.— Consomme  a 
la  Julienne.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  clear  soup  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.  156),! 
carrot,  i  onion,  £  a  turnip,  a  strip  of  celery,  pepper  and  salt,  £  an  oz.  of 
butter. 

Method. — Prepare  the  vegetables  and  cut  them  into  fine  strips  like 
small  matches,  melt  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  put  in  the  strips 
of  vegetable  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  fry  gently  for  a  few 
minutes,  shaking  frequently  to  prevent  browning.  Drain  well  to  free 
them  from  butter,  add  them  to  the  hot  soup,  and  simmer  gently  for 
15  or  20  minutes,  keeping  the  soup  well  skimmed. 


RECIPES    FOR    CLEAR    SOUPS  153 

Time.— To  prepare  and  cook  the  vegetables,  40  minutes.  Average 
Cost,  25.  4d.  Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

—A  tablespoonful  of  cooked  green  peas,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
cooked  French  beans  cut  in  narrow  strips,  may  be  added  to  the  other 

s.     Instead  of  frying  them  in  butter  they  (the  turnip,  carrot,  onion. 

may  be  parboiled  in  salt  and  water,  and  afterwards  simmered  until 
tender  in   the  stock. 

36.— CLEAR  LEAFY  SOUP. 

(Fr. — Consomme  aux  Mille  Feuilles.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  consomme  (see  Recipe  No.  .\2,  \\  is<>\  107. 
soft  breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  2  eggs,  grated  nut- 
meg, pepper  and  salt. 

Method.— Mix  the  breadcrumbs  and  cheese  in  a  basin,  beat  up  the 
eggs  and  stir  them  into  the  above  ;  beat  up  well  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
add  the  seasoning.  Drop  the  mixture  by  means  of  a  funnel  into  the 
boiling  consomme,  and  allow  it  to  simmer  for  about  5  minutes.  By 
this  time  the  broth  will  become  clear  again.  It  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Time.— About  £  hour.     Average  Cost,  33.     Sufficient  for  8  persons. 

37.— CLEAR  MOCK  TURTLE  SOUP.       (Fr.— Potage 
de  Tortue  Fausse  Clair.) 

Ingredients. —  \  a  calf's  head,  5  quarts  of  clear  second  st<«  \ecipe 

No.  7,p.  140),  ior  water),  2  onions,  2  carrots,  i  turnip,  i  strip  of  cd 
bnu«|iiet  garni  .parsley,  b.isil,  marjoram,  thyme,   luv  l«-al  ,    i 
corns,  4  cloves,  2  blades  of  mace,  2  glasses  of  sherry,   i    taH.  spoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  £  a  Ib.  of  lean  n  veal,  the  whites  ami 

shells  of  2  eggs,  salt. 

Method. — Soak   the  head  24  hours  in  salt  and  water,  changing   it 

frequently.     Then  bone  the  head  (the  brains  and  tongue  may  be  used 

for  some  other  purpose),  tie  the  meat  in  a  thin  cloth  and  break  the  bones 

into  small  pieces  ;  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  cover  with  cold  water, 

add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  let  it  boil  up,  strain,  and  wash  the  head  in 

1  water.      Keturn  the  meat  and  bones  to  the  stewpan,  put  in  the 

!v  and  a  oonful  of  salt,  boil  up,  and  skim  well.     Now  add 

the  pit-pared  vegetables,  herbs,  peppercorns,  cloves  and  mace,  and  when 

boiling,  remove  the  scum,  put  on  the  cover  and  cook  slowly  for  about 

3  hours,  according  to  the  size  of  the  head.     Strain,  put  th  i.le, 

and  when  the  stock  is  cold  remove  the  f.tt ,  and  clarify  with  the coai 

chopped  beef  and  veal, and  whites  of  eggs,  see  recipe  No.  10.    Return 

to   the  saucepan,   with   the  sherry,  the  lemon-juice  and  a  little  of  the 

the  head,  cut  into  small    pieces.      Add    necessary  seasoning, 

boil    up   and  S 


I54  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

This  recipe  may  be  thickened  with  a  tablespoonful  of  arrowroot 
when  a  thicker  soup  is  required. 

The  remainder  of  the  calf's  head  can  be  used  for  an  entree. 

Time. — To  prepare  the  stock,  3^  to  4  hours.  To  clarify  and  re-heat, 
40  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost.  53.  9d.  with  stock.  Seasonable  at 
any  time.  Sufficient  for  12  or  14  persons. 

MARJORAM  (Fr.  marjolaine). — The  common  marjoram  is  indigenous  to  Britain,  and  grows  on  chalky 
soils.  Its  flowers  are  reddish  in  colour,  growing  in  clustered  spikes.  It  possesses  balsamic,  aromatic 
and  bitter  properties,  and  from  the  plant  is  obtained  "  oil  of  thyme."  Sweet  and  pot  marjoram, 
natives  of  southern  Europe,  are  cultivated  in  gardens  for  culinary  use ;  the  young  tops  and  leaves, 
both  green  and  dried,  are  used  for  seasoning. 

38.— CLEAR    MULLIGATAWNY.        (Fr.— Consomme 
a  Tlndienne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  second  stock  (see  Recipe  No.  7,  p.  140),  2 
onions,  sliced,  i  apple,  sliced,  i  tablespoonful  of  mild  curry  powder, 
%  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  the  whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs,  the  juice  of 
i  lemon. 

Method. — Put  the  stock,  onions,  apples,  curry  powder  (previously 
mixed  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water),  and  salt  into  a  wrell-tinned 
stewpan,  put  on  the  cover  and  simmer  gently  for  i£  hours,  then  strain. 
When  cold,  add  the  egg-shells  crushed  and  the  whites  stiffly  whipped, 
let  the  soup  boil  up  again  and  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain, 
re-heat,  add  the  lemon-juice  and  any  necessary  seasoning,  and  serve, 
with  boiled  rice,  handed  round  separately  or  put  in  the  soup. 

When  convenient,  a  little  cooked  chicken  should  also  be  served,  cut 
into  dice  or  cubes,  and  warmed  in  the  soup  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 

Time. — To  make  the  soup,  i£  to  i£  hours.  To  clear  and  re-heat  the 
soup,  30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons, 


39.— CLEAR    MULLIGATAWNY.        (Fr.— Consomme 
a  Tlndienne.)     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  second  stock,  2  small  onions,  sliced,  i  sour 
apple,  sliced,  2  oz.  of  lean  raw  ham  or  bacon,  the  bones  of  any  roast  game 
or  poultry,  i  dessertspoonful  of  mild  curry  powder,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
curry  paste,  i  teaspoonful  of  chutney,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice, 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Fry  the  onions,  apple,  curry  powder,  ham  (cut  into  small 
pieces),  bones  and  any  trimmings  of  poultry  there  may  be,  in  the  butter 
until  nicely  browned,  then  add  the  stock,  salt,  curry  paste,  chutney, 
and  simmer  gently  for  about  i  hour  ;  strain,  and  when  cold  remove 


RECIPES    FOR    CLEAR   SOUPS  155 

the  fat.     Clarify  with  the  shells  and  whites  of  eggs  as  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  re-heat,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  serve  with  boiled  rice. 

Time. — To  make  the  soup,  i|-  to  i£  hours.  To  clarify  and  re-heat, 
30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient 
for  6  persons. 

40.— CLEAR    OXTAIL    SOUP.  (Fr.—  Potage    de 

Queue  de  Bceuf,  clair.) 

Ingredients. — i  oxtail,  i  carrot,  \  a  turnip,  i  onion,  i  strip  of  celery, 
a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay -leaf),  6  peppercorns,  2  cloves, 
i  blade  of  mace,  3  quarts  of  CLEAR  second  stock,  salt,  the  whites  and 
shells  of  2  eggs. 

Method. — Cut  the  tail  into  short  lengths,  cover  with  cold  water,  add 
a  little  salt,  bring  to  the  boil  and  strain.  Return  to  the  saucepan 
with  the  vegetables,  flavourings,  and  seasonings,  simmer  gently  for 
four  hours,  keeping  the  stewpan  covered,  strain,  put  the  meat  aside, 
and  when  the  stock  is  cold  remove  the  fat.  Clarify  with  the  whites 
and  shells  of  the  eggs,  strain,  re-heat,  and  serve  garnished  with  pieces 
of  the  tail,  and  a  little  carrot  and  turnip  cooked  and  cut  into  some  fancy 
shape.  A  glass  of  sherry  is  sometimes  added  when  re-heating,  also  a 
tablespoonful  of  arrowroot,  previously  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little 
stock,  when  a  slightly- thickened  "  clear  "  soup  is  desired. 

Time. — To  make  the  soup,  from  4  to  4^  hours.  To  clarify  and  heat, 
30  to  40  minutes.  Cost. — 2S.  pd.  to  35.  3d.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  9  or  10  persons. 

Note. — The  larger  pieces  of  tail  should  be  re-heated  in  brown  sauce,  or 
a  good  curry  sauce,  and  served  as  a  dish  for  luncheon. 

41.— CLEAR  ROYAL  SOUP.        (Fr.— Consomme  a  la 
Royale.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  clear  soup  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.  156),  i  egg,  i 
tablespoonful  of  milk  or  white  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Beat  the  egg,  add  the  milk,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
pour  the  custard  into  a  well-buttered  plain  mould.  Have  ready  a 
small  stewpan  half  full  of  boiling  water,  put  in  the  custard,  cover  the 
top  of  the  mould  with  greased  paper,  put  on  a  close-fitting  lid  to  keep  in 
the  steam,  and  cook  VERY  SLOWLY  for  15  minutes,  or  until  the  custard  is 
firm.  When  cold,  cut  into  strips,  rounds,  diamonds  or  any  fancy 
shape,  rinse  in  warm  water,  then  put  them  into  the  tureen  and  pour 
in  the  hot  consomme.  Or  to  make  a  change,  use  one  yolk  and  the 
whites  of  2  eggs.  To  the  yolk  and  each  white  add  a  dessertspoonful  of 
good  white  stock  or  milk,  season  to  taste,  and  colour  one  white  of  egg 


156  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

with  carmine  or  cochineal.     Cook  in  3  separate  small  timbals  or  dariol 
moulds,  and  use  as  directed  above. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook  the  custard,  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost, 
33.  4d.  Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

42.— CLEAR  SOUP.     (Fr.  Consomme.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  brown  stock,  i  Ib.  of  neck  of  beef  (lean) 
finely  chopped,  or  passed  two  or  three  times  through  the  mincing 
machine,  the  whites  and  shells  of  4  eggs,  i  carrot,  cut  in  two  or  three 
pieces,  i  onion  (left  whole),  a  strip  of  celery,  12  peppercorns,  6  allspice, 
2  cloves,  salt. 

Method. — The  stock  should  be  cold  and  quite  free  from  fat.  Put 
it  into  a  clean  well-tinned  stewpan,  add  the  vegetables,  flavourings, 
seasonings,  the  shells  of  the  eggs  crushed  and  the  whites  stiffly  whipped, 
and  whisk  all  together  over  a  gentle  fire  until  just  on  boiling  point, 
then  let  it  simmer  about  £  an  hour.  Strain  through  a  clean  dry  cloth, 
re-heat  and  season  to  taste  before  serving.  A  glass  of  sherry,  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  French  vinegar  or  lemon-juice  and  a  pinch  of  castor  sugar, 
are  frequently  added  when  re-heating  the  consomme. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  35.  6d.  Seasonable  at  any 
time.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9  persons. 

43. -CLEAR    SOUP,    PORTUGUESE    STYLE. 
(Fr. — Consomme  a  la  Portugaise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  consomme,  i  large  ripe  tomato,  \  an  oz.  of 
butter,  12  French  plums,  i  small  leek,  a  pinch  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Wash  the  plums,  put  them  in  cold  water  with  a  little  salt, 
bring  to  the  boil,  strain,  and  rinse  in  cold  water  ;  return  to  the  stewpan 
in  which  they  were  blanched,  add  sufficient  clear  stock  to  well  cover, 
and  cook  slowly  till  tender.  Wash  and  clean  the  leek,  cut  it  into  fine 
shreds  or  Julienne  shaped  strips  about  i  inch  long,  wash  well  in  cold 
water,  drain,  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes  with  the  butter,  pour  in  some 
clarified  stock  or  consomme,  and  cook  slowly  till  tender.  Carefully 
remove  all  the  fat,  pour  in  the  consomme,  and  let  it  simmer  for  a 
few  minutes.  Put  the  plums  in  the  soup  tureen.  Blanch  and  skin  the 
tomato,  cut  it  up  into  very  small  pieces  or  dice,  free  from  pips,  and  put 
these  also  into  the  soup  tureen.  Add  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper  to 
taste,  pour  on  the  consomme,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  45.  2d.  Sufficient  for  8  persons. 

44.— CLEAR    SOUP    WITH    FRIED    QUENELLES. 
(Fr. — Consomme  aux  Quenelles  Frites.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  clear  soup  (see  Recipe  No.  42),  %  of  a 
Ib.  of  leg -of  veal,  or  raw  chicken,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  £  of  an  oz.  of  but- 


RECIPES   FOR   CLEAR   SOUPS  157 

ter,  a  tablespoonful  of  good  white  stock,  a  teaspoonful  of  cream,  £  an 
egg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — Mince  the  veal  finely,  or  pass  it  through  the  mincing  ma- 
chine 2  or  3  times.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  stir  in 
the  flour,  add  the  stock,  and  cook  until  it  leaves  the  sides  of  the  saucepan 
clear  and  forms  a  compact  mass  round  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  :  this  is 
called  a  panada.  Let  it  cool  slightly,  pound  it  and  the  veal  well 
together,  add  the  half  egg  and  seasoning,  pound  until  well  mixed 
together,  then  rub  through  a  wire  sieve.  Mix  in  the  cream,  shape  into 
small  marbles,  fry  in  a  little  hot  butter  or  fat,  drain  well,  and  add  them 
to  the  soup  just  before  serving. 

Time. — To  make  and  cook  the  quenelle  mixture,  30  to  40  minutes. 
Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.  to  35.  Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6 
persons. 

Note. — This  mixture  may  also  be  shaped  in  small  teaspoons  or  eggspoons, 
and  poached  in  a  little  boiling  water  before  being  added  to  the  soup. 

45.— CLEAR    SOUP   WITH    ITALIAN   PASTE. 
(Fr. — Consomme  aux  Pates  d' Italic.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  clear  soup  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.  156),  i  t 
spoonful  of  Italian  paste  (bought  in  packets). 

Method. — Sprinkle  the  paste  into  the  boiling  soup,  and  cook  it 
for  a  few  minutes  before  serving.  Crushed  tapioca,  sago  or  Florador 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  paste,  also  macaroni,  vermicelli  or  spaghetti, 
but  these  must  be  cooked  and  cut  into  short  lengths  before  being 
added  to  the  soup. 

Time. — To  cook  the  Italian  paste,  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  35. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

46.  -CLEAR   SOUP   WITH    RIBBON    MACARONI. 
(Fr. — Consomme  aux  Nouilles.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  clear  soup,  4  ozs.  of  fine  flour,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  i  egg,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  cheese  and  salt  well  together,  add  hall  11 
and,  if  necessary,  a  little  water.  Knead  it  vigorously  with  the  palm 
of  the  hand  until  a  fairly  stiff  but  smooth  paste  is  formed  ;  it  must 
not  be  too  moist,  and  should  have  a  tenacious  elastic  consistency. 
Wrap  in  a  floured  cloth  and  let  it  stand  for  i  hour  or  more,  then  roll  out 
VERY  thinly  on  a  floured  board,  cut  into  narrow  strips,  and  cook  a  few 
at  a  time,  in  salted  boiling  water.  Strain  and  drain  and  add  a  hand- 
ful to  the  consomme  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 


158  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — \  an  hour  to  cook  the  paste.  Average  Cost,  35.  3d.  Seasonable 
at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

Note. — The  remainder  of  Nouilles  or  Ribbon  Macaroni  can  be  heated  up  with 
White  Sauce,  and  done  au  gratin,  to  be  served  for  a  luncheon  or  supper  dish. 

47.— CLEAR  TURTLE  SOUP.        (Fr.—  Potage  Tortue 
Clair.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  the  best  sun-dried  turtle,  i  small  tin  of  turtle 
fat  (this  may  be  omitted),  -|  a  Ib.  of  lean  neck  of  beef,  \  a  Ib.  of  lean 
veal,  the  whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs,  5  quarts  of  good  stock,  2  onions, 
2  carrots,  i  turnip,  i  strip  of  celery,  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf,  basil,  marjoram),  12  peppercorns,  2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace 
(tied  in  muslin),  2  glasses  of  sherry,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt. 

Method. — Soak  the  turtle  for  3  days,  changing  the  water  frequently. 
Put  the  stock,  turtle,  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  salt  into  a  large  stewpan 
and  bring  to  the  boil,  then  add  the  prepared  vegetables,  herbs,  bag  of 
peppercorns,  etc.,  and  when  the  stock  boils  remove  the  scum  as  it 
rises.  Put  on  the  cover  and  cook  gently  for  8  or  9  hours,  adding  more 
stock  if  that  in  the  pan  reduces  very  much.  Strain,  put  the  pieces  of 
turtle  aside,  and  remove  the  fat  from  the  soup  when  cold.  Pass  th< 
beef  and  veal  2  or  3  times  through  the  mincing  machine,  and  add  them 
together  with  the  shells  and  stiffly-whipped  whites  of  the  eggs  to  the 
soup,  and  whisk  until  it  boils.  Simmer  gently  for  •£  an  hour,  then  strain 
and  return  to  the  stewpan  with  the  turtle  and  turtle  fat  cut  into  small 
squares,  adding  sherry,  lemon-juice,  and  the  necessary  seasoning,  am 
cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes.  Lemons  cut  in  quarters  are  sometim< 
handed  separately  with  this  soup  for  those  who  prefer  a  stronger  flavoui 
of  lemon. 

Time. — To  make  the  stock,  9  to  10  hours.  To  clarify  and  re-heat, 
i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  8s.  6d.  without  stock.  Seasonable  at  an] 
time.  Sufficient  for  10  persons. 

48._ COCK-A-LEEKIE  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — A  small  fowl  for  boiling,  i  carrot,  i  turnip,  i  onion, 
2  cloves,  i  small  bunch  of  young  leeks,  2  ozs.  of  rice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Truss  the  fowl  for  boiling,  put  it  in  a  large  stewpan 
stock-pot,  with  enough  water  to  well  cover  it,  add  a  little  salt,  and  let 
it  come  to  the  boil.  Remove  the  scum,  then  add  the  carrot,  turnip 
(previously  cleaned),  and  the  onion,  peeled  and  stuck  with  the  cloves. 
When  the  fowl  is  tender  take  it  out.  Wash  the  leeks,  trim  off  the  roots 
and  outside  leaves,  and  cut  into  i-inch  lengths.  Strain  the  broth 
(which  should  measure  about  3  pints)  into  another  stewpan,  add  the 
leeks  and  the  rice,  previously  washed  and  blanched.  Boil  for  about 
£  an  hour,  season  to  taste,  cut  the  fowl  in  half,  divide  one  half  into  very 


RECIPES    FOR    CLEAR    SOUPS  159 

small  pieces  and  put  these  with  the  soup.  Use  the  remainder  for 
some  other  purpose.  Before  serving,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley  to  the  soup.  If  preferred,  the  fowl  need  not  be  served  in  the 
soup,  but  it  is  essential  that  this  soup  should  be  made  from  chicken 
stock. 

Time,  about  i£  hours.      Average  Cost,  2s.  lod.      Sufficient  for 6  persons. 

49.— CUSTARD  FOR  SOUP.  (Fr.— Garniture  Royale.) 

Ingredients. — 2  whole  eggs,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  gill  of  white  stock,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Beat  up  the  eggs  in  a  basin,  add  the  stock,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Strain  this  into  a 
well-buttered  plain  tin  mould;  stand  it  in  a  stewpan  containing  a  little 
boiling  water,  cover  the  mould  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  let  it  poach 
in  a  moderately  heated  oven  for  20  minutes.  When  done,  take  out 
the  mould  and  put  in  a  cool  place.  Turn  out  when  cold,  and  cut  the 
custard  into  dice,  cubes,  or  other  fanciful  shapes  (known  as  Royal). 
Use  for  garnish  in  clear  or  thick  soups. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
quarts  of  soup.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

50.— PRINCE'S  SOUP.  (.Fr.— Consomme  aux  Navets.^ 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  boiling  clear  soup,  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.  156.) 
£  of  a  pint  of  turnip  garnish,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  green  peas,  i 
dessertspoonful  of  finely-shredded  truffle,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Scoop  the  turnip  into  rounds  the  same  size  as  the  peas, 
and  cook  them  until  tender  but  not  broken.  Season  the  stock  to  taste, 
add  the  prepared  turnip,  peas  and  truffle,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and 
serve. 

Time. — £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

51.— RICE  SOUP.       (Fr.— Consomme  au  Riz.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  consomme,  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.  156),  2  ozs.  of 
Patna  rice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Throw  the  rice  into  boiling  water,  let  it  cook  rapidly  for 
5  minutes,  then  wash  and  drain  it  well.  Bring  the  stock  to  boiling- 
point,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  put  in  the  rice.  Simmer  gently 
until  the  rice  is  quite  tender,  then  serve. 

Time.— From  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


i6o  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

52. — SAGO  SOUP.          (Fr. — Consomme  au  Sagou.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  consomme  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.  156),  i£  oz. 
of  fine  sago,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  sago  in  2  or  3  waters.  Boil  up  the  stock,  sprinkle 
in  the  sago,  boil  gently  until  it  becomes  transparent,  then  season  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2S.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 

53.— SEMOLINA  SOUP.  (Fr.— Consomme  auSemoule.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  consomme  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.  156),  i£  oz. 
of  semolina,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  up  the  stock,  and  sprinkle  in  the  semolina.  Cook 
gently  for  20  minutes,  stirring  almost  continuously,  then  season  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

SEMOLINA  (Fr.  semoule). — A  wheat  meal,  prepared  from  the  large  grains  of  the  hard  wheats  of 
southern  Europe  by  a  special  process  of  milling,  which  produces  a  very  white  coarse  Hour,  rich  in 
gluten,  rendering  semolina  a  valuable  flesh-forming  food.  It  is  used  for  thickening  soups,  puddings, 
etc. 

54.— SOLFERINO  SOUP.  (Fr.— Consomme  Solferino.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  clear  soup,  (see  Recipe  No.  42,  p.  156),  2  ozs. 
of  choux  paste. 

Method. — Make  the  stock  and  choux  paste  as  directed,  and  season 
the  latter  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  hot 
fat,  dip  into  it  the  bowl  of  a  small  teaspoon,  fill  it  with  choux  paste, 
and  smooth  the  surface  with  a  knife  previously  dipped  into  the  hot  fat. 
As  the  shapes  are  formed  drop  them  into  the  fat,  and  fry  them  slowly 
until  crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  and  add  them  to  the  soup 
when  on  the  point  of  serving. 

Time. — About  15  minutes,  to  fry  the  shapes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d. 
Sufficient  for  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

55.—SPRING  SOUP.       (Fr.— Potage  PrintaniSre.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  unclarified  stock,  £  gill  each  of  green  peas, 
french  beans,  asparagus  tops,  and  chopped  lettuce,  i  young  carrot,  i 
small  onion,  a  bouquet  garni,  £lb.  of  gravy  beef,  the  white  of  i  egg; 
seasoning. 

Method. — Prepare  the  vegetables,  and  scoop  out  some  small  pea  shapes 
of  carrot.  Cook  all  the  vegetables  separately  in  salted  water.  Put  the 


RECIPES   FOR   CLEAR   SOUPS  161 

stock  into  a  pan  with  the  onion,  herbs,  finely  minced  meat,  seasoning 
and  white  of  egg.  Whisk  till  it  boils,  then  simmer  for  10  minutes. 
Strain  and  reheat.  Add  the  prepared  vegetables  and  serve. 

Time.— i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.9d.  Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Sea- 
sonable in  April  and  May. 

56.— TRANSPARENT  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — 4  Ib.  of  knuckle  of  veal,  2  ozs.  of  blanched  almonds 
finely-chopped,  i£  oz.  of  vermicelli  crushed,  i  blade  of  mace,  salt  and 
pepper,  3  quarts  of  water. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  break  up  the  bones,  put 
both  into  a  large  stewing-jar,  and  add  the  water,  prepared  almonds, 
mace,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  slowly  on  the  stove  or  in  the 
oven  until  reduced  to  4-  the  original  quantity,  then  strain.  \Vlicii 
cold,  remove  every  particle  of  fat,  boil  up  the  stock,  sprinkle  in  the 
vermicelli,  simmer  gently  for  10  or  15  minutes,  then  season  to  taste,  and 
serve. 

Time. — To  prepare  the  stock,  8  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

57.—VERMICELLI  SOUP.        (Fr—  Consomme  Vermi- 
celle.) 

Ingredients. — 3    pints  of  consomme,   (sec   Recipe  No.  42,  p.   156),   2 

rmicelli,   salt    and  pepper. 

Method.  Crush  the  vermicelli  between  the  fingers  into  short  K  ; 
Bring  the  stock  to  boiling  point,  sprinkle  in  the  vermicelli,  boil  ;. 
(or  i  5  minutes,  then  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2s.  ^d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
ns.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

trooi  in  a  fine,  thread-like  form,  with  the  addi- 

K-tfse. 

Thick  Soups. 

58.— BARLEY  SOUP.       (Fr.— Potage  Creme  d'Orge.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  white  second  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  dessert 
:ul  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  croutons  of  fried 
bread,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  crushed  barley,  sold  in  pai  kets 
under  the  name  of  "  Creme  d'Orge." 

Method,  -  r.oil  th<-  sin.  k  and  milk  together  in  a  saucepan,  melt  the 
butler,  stir  in  the  Hour,  add  the  stork  and  milk  and  stir  until  it  boils. 


162         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Sprinkle  in  the  barley,  stir  and  cook  until  the  mixture  becomes  trans- 
parent (about  10  minutes).  Season  to  taste,  and  serve.  The  croutons 
(small  slices  of  bread  cut  into  shapes)  should  be  either  fried  in  hot  fat 
or  cut  from  thin  slices  of  toast.  They  should  be  handed  separately, 
unless  directions  are  given  to  put  them  into  the  soup  before  serving. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.  Cost,  4d.  to  $d.  without  the  stock.  Season- 
able at  all  times.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

Note. — Rice  and  tapioca,  finely  crushed  and  ground,  may  also  be  bought  in 
packets,  and  will  be  found  useful  preparations  for  soups  of  this  class.  When 
not  easily  obtainable,  ground  rice,  Florador,  or  Semolina  will  be  found 
good  substitutes.  The  well-known  "  Potage  Creme  de  Riz  "  can  be  made 
from  this  recipe,  using  creme  de  riz  instead  of  creme  d'orge  ;  and  either  soup 
can  be  made  richer  by  omitting  the  flour,  and  butter,  and  in  their  place  using 
the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  and  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  which  should  be  added 
to  the  soup  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 

59.— BARLEY   SOUP    (Another    Method). 
(Fr. — Potage  Crime  d'Orge.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  white  second  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  i -Jounces 
of  pearl-barley,  i£  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  corn-flour,  salt,  pepper,  nut- 
meg, croutons  of  fried  or  toasted  bread. 

Method. — Wash  the  pearl-barley  until  the  water  is  clear,  drain,  put 
it  and  the  stock  into  a  stewpan,  boil  up,  and  simmer  gently  for  3  hours, 
stirring  occasionally.  Rub  through  a  hair  or  fine  wire  sieve,  return 
to  the  stewpan,  add  the  milk  and  seasoning,  and  bring  to  the  boil. 
Knead  the  corn-flour  and  butter  together,  put  the  mixture  into  the 
soup  and  stir  until  it  becomes  smoothly  united  with  it.  Add  the  nut- 
meg if  liked,  place  the  croutons  of  fried  bread  in  the  tureen,  pour  in 
the  soup,  and  serve. 

Time. — 3^  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost. — 4d.  to  5d.  without  the  stock. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

BARLEY  (Fr.  :  Orge). — This  well  known  plant,  which  is  a  genus  (hordeum)  of  the  order  Gramince,  or 
Grasses,  is  probably  the  first  cereal  cultivated  by  man.  It  was  grown  in  Egypt  and  Palestine  in  the 
earliest  recorded  times,  and  Homer  makes  reference  to  it.  The  ancient  Egyptians,  Greeks,  and 
Germans  made  beer  from  barley.  The  grain  is  principally  used  for  making  malt,  from  which  beer, 
porter,  and  whiskey  are  manufactured.  Scotch  barley  is  prepared  by  removing  the  husks  of  the  grain 
and  pearl-barley  by  the  further  process  of  polishing  and  rounding  the  grain.  Barley-water,  a  con- 
coction of  pearl-barley,  owing  to  its  emollient  and  diluent  properties,  forms  a  valuable  medicine,  for 
patients  of  weak  digestion.  The  constituents  of  barley  in  100  parts  are: — Starch,  79;  glutin,  6; 
sugar,  7  ;  husk,  8. 

60.— CABBAGE  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  aux  Choux.) 

Ingredients. — 2  small  young  cabbages  (finely  shredded),  i  tablespoon- 
ful  of  finely  chopped  onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley, 
2  pints  of  boiling  water,  i  pint  of  milk,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  crushed 
tapioca  (sold  in  packets),  or  fine  sago,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Cover  the  shredded  cabbage  with  boiling  water,  bring  to 
the  boil  and  strain.  Return  the  cabbage  to  the  saucepan,  add  to  it 
2  pints  of  boiling  water,  the  milk,  onion,  parsley,  butter,  salt  and  pepper, 


RECIPES    FOR   THICK    SOUPS  163 

and  boil  gently  for  15  minutes.  Sprinkle  in  the  tapioca  and  cook  for 
about  10  minutes  longer,  or  until  the  tapioca  becomes  transparent, 
then  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d.  Seasonable  at  any 
time.  Sufficient  for  8  persons. 

CABBAGE    (Fr.  :    Chou).— This    valued    vegetable,    so    largely  used    for  culinary  purposes,  is 
cultivated  in  almost  every  temperate  region  of  the  globe,  and  in  its  wild  state  grows  on  the  rocky 
shores  of  our  own  island,  and  still  more  extensively  on  the  shores  of  Southern  Europe.     There  are 
numerous  varieties  or  "  sports  "  of  the  common  cabbage,  as  the  Savoy  cabbage,  kohl  Rabi,  the  Portu- 
gal cabbage,  cauliflower,  broccoli,  and  seakale,  which  are  grown  for  the  table,  and  cooked  in  various 
Red  or  purple  cabbage  is  used  for  pickling.     The  cabbage  is  one  of  the  least  nutritious  of 
les,  as  it  contains  about  90  per  cent,  of  water.     Sauer-kraut,  a  popular  dish  in  Germany,  is 
prepared  by  packing  white  cabbages,  cut  into  small  pieces,  into  a  cask  with  layers  of  salt,  mixed  with 
caraway  and  juniper  berries.    When  fermented,  it  is  eaten  with  meat. 

61.— CALVES'  TAIL  SOUP.         (Fr.— Potage  de  Queue 
de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  second  stock,  2  calves'  tails,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
1 1  ozs.  of  flour,  i  onion  sliced,  i  small  carrot  sliced,  a  bouquet -garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  a  small  blade  of  mace,  2  cloves,  i  glass  of 
sherry,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  blanch  and  dry  the  tails,  and  divide  them  into 
sections.  Boil  the  stock,  add  the  prepared  tails  and  vegetables, 
season  to  taste,  put  in  the  mace  and  cloves,  and  cover  closely.  Simmer 
very  gently  from  i£  to  i£  hours,  or  until  the  tails  are  sufficiently  cooked. 
Meanwhile  melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  and  cook 
slowly  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour.  Strain  the  stock  and 
add  it  to  the  flour,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  whole  is  well  blended. 
Add  the  pieces  of  tail,  a  few  shreds  of  onion  and  carrot,  the  si 
and  more  seasoning  if  required.  Make  thoroughly  hot,  then  scr 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.,  exclusive  of  the 
stock.  Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

CALF  (Fr.  vtau).— The  name  given  to  the  younc  "f  «.ittle.  When  under  two  months  of  ace 
the  flesh  is  called  veal,  and  yields  a  large  quantity  of  soluble  extract,  and  is,  therefore  much  used 
for  broths  and  soups. 

62.— COTTAGE  SOUP.    (Fr.— Potage  a  la  Paysanne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  lean  neck  of  beef,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  streaky  bacon, 
i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  2  Ib.  of  potatoes,  2  ozs.  of  dripping, 
i  tablespoonful  of  rice,  salt,  pepper,  and  2  quarts  of  water. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  thin  slices,  the  bacon  into  dice  or  cubes, 

\nd  the  soup  vegetables  into  thin  slices.  Melt  the  fat  in  a  stewpan,  fry 
<con,  meat  and  onion  until  nicely  brouned,  then  add  the  sliced 
Mrs,  the  water,  salt  and  pepper,  cover  closely  and  simmer  for  i 

lour.     Meanwhile  the  potatoes  should  have  been  pr 

arge,  cut  in  two.     Add  them  to  the  soup,  and  when  tl  been 

:ooking  £  an  hour  sprinkle  in  the  rice.       Cook  gently   for  another  ^ 


164         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

hour  (2  hours  altogether),  and  if  the  potatoes  and  rice  are  tender, 
season  the  soup  to  taste  and  serve. 

Time. — 2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

63.— ENDIVE  SOUP.       (Fr.— Potage  au  Chicoree.) 

Ingredients. — 1|  Ib.  of  knuckle  of  veal,  free  from  bone,  poultry  giblets 
(pd.  or  is.  worth),  i  onion,  2  cloves,  i  turnip,  i  carrot,  i  small 
bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  endives  (large  heads),  2 
ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i|  gills  of  cream,  seasoning, 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  ground  mace,  paprika  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces,  wash  and  clean  the  giblets  ; 
put  all  in  a  stewpan  with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  about  2  quarts,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Skim  well.  Peel  the  onion, 
insert  the  cloves,  peel  or  scrape  the  turnip  and  carrot;  add  these  to 
the  above,  also  the  bouquet-garni.  Boil  for  about  i£  hours  or 
longer,  and  strain.  Trim,  wash  and  drain  the  endives,  cut  them 
into  fine  shreds,  blanch  and  drain.  Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
add  the  endives,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  5  minutes.  Moisten  with 
sufficient  stock,  and  cook  until  tender,  then  put  it  into  the  prepared 
stock.  Allow  this  to  boil  up.  Melt  the  remainder  of  the  butter,  stir  in 
the  flour,  cook  a  little,  and  moisten  with  a  little  cold  milk.  Pour  this 
into  the  soup,  and  continue  to  cook  the  whole  a  little  longer,  then  pass 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  to  the  stewpan,  season  to  taste  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  also  a  tiny  pinch  of  ground  mace  and  paprika. 
Put  the  cream  and  egg-yolks  into  the  soup  tureen,  beat  up  well,  and 
pour  the  boiling  soup  gradually  into  the  tureen.  The  soup  is  then 
ready  for  table. 

Average  Cost. — 33.  6d.  Sufficient  for  8  persons.  Seasonable  from  Octo- 
ber to  April. 

ENDIVE  (Fr.  chicoree). — The  curled  leaves  of  this  plant— known  also  as  "  garden  succory  "—when 
blanched  are  used  for  soups,  stews  and  in  salads.      The  endive,  which  belongs  to  the  Chic<» 
Lettuce  division  of  the  Compositae,  is  a  native  of  China,  but  grows  well  in  Britain,  where  it  wu.--  intro- 
duced in  the  sixteenth  century.      From  one  species  the  chicory  used  in  the  adulteration  of  u/flee 
is  obtained. 

64.— FLEMISH  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  a  la  Flamande.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  boiling  stock  or  water,  -£  a  pint  of  milk, 
2  Ib.  of  potatoes  sliced,  \  a  head  of  celery  cut  into  short  pieces,  2  onions 
sliced,  3  ozs.  of  butter  or  fat,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Heat  the  butter  in  a  large  saucepan,  add  the  prepared 
vegetables,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for  £  an  hour,  stirring  or 
shaking  the  ingredients  occasionally.  Add  the  boiling  stock  or  \vaitr 


RECIPES    FOR   THICK    SOUPS  165 

and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  boil  gently  until  the  potatoes  are 
soft,  then  rub  the  whole  through  a  wire  sieve.  Re-heat,  add  the  milk, 
season  to  taste,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — From   i-J-  to   if  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.,  exclusive  of  the 
stock.     Sufficient  for   8  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 


65.— GIBLET  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  aux  Abatis.) 

Ingredients. — The  giblets  of  a  goose,  turkey,  ducks,  or  chickens,  to 
one  set  allow  i  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  and  3  pints  of  stock  or  2  pints  of  water, 
%  a  carrot,  i  small  onion,  I  strip  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  £  a  glass 
of  sherry,  salt,  pepper,  i  tablespoonful  of  macaroni,  cooked  and  cut 
across  into  tiny  rings. 

Method. — Skin  the  gizzard,  scald  and  skin  the  feet,  wash  the  neck  and 
liver,  dry  and  cut  into  small  pieces.  Melt  the  butter  and  fry  the 
giblets,  meat  and  sliced  vegetables  until  brown,  then  add  the  stock, 
herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  boilin-j,  skim  well.  Cook  gently 
fur  2  hours,  then  strain  and  return  to  the  stewpan.  \Yhcn  builiiu', 
mix  the  sherry  and  the  Hour  smoothly  together  and  add  to  the  sou]), 
also  the  macaroni  and  any  necessary  seasoning,  simmer  a  few 
minutes  longer,  and  serve. 

Time. — 2|  to  3  hours.  Cost,  exclusive  of  the  giblets  and  stock,  13. 
to  is.  2d.  Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 


56.— GOOD  WOMAN'S  SOUP.          (Fr— Potage  a  la 
Bonne  Femme.) 

Ingredients,  i  quart  of  white  stock,  i  white-heart  lettuce,  i  thick 
slice  of  cucumber  (the  length  of  which  must  equal  the  breadth  of  the 
:ucumbcr,  so  that  a  square  block  may  be  cut),  a  little  tarragon  and 
:hervil  (these  may  be  omitted  when  not  easily  procurable),  i  oz.  of 
jutter,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk,  salt  and 
Copper. 

Method.    AVash  and  shred  the  lettuce  finely,  cut  the  block  of  cucumbi-r 
efigthwise  into  thin  slices,  and  the  slices  into  match-like  strips.     Melt 
itter,  and  iry  the  vegetables  for  5  or  6  minutes,  then  add  the 
:id  pepper,  and  boil  slowly  until  the  lettuce  is  tender  (10  to  15 
"inui-  t  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add  to  them  the  cream  or  milk. 

x*t  the  soup  cool  slightly,  then  pour  in  the  yolks  and  cream,  and  stir 
mtil  the  soup  thickens,  but  it  MUST  NOT  BOIL  or  the  eggs  will  curdle. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  about  40  minutes.     Cost,  2S.  to  2s.  3d. 
Seasonable  almost  at  any  time.      Sufficient    for   4  persons. 


166  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

67.— GRAVY  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Potage  au  Jus.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  second  stock  or  gravy  stock,  i  Ib.  of  neck 
or  shin  of  beef  (lean),  i  carrot,  i  onion,  £  a  turnip,  i  strip  of  celery, 
bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  8  peppercorns,  2  cloves, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces.  Make  the  butter  hot  in 
the  stewpan,  put  in  the  meat  and  sliced  vegetables,  and  fry  until 
brown.  Add  the  stock,  herbs,  peppercorns,  cloves,  and  seasoning, 
and  cook  very  gently  for  2^  to  3  hours,  strain,  return  to  the  saucepan, 
boil  up,  mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  stock,  pour  it  into  the 
soup,  simmer  5  minutes  longer,  add  seasoning  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 3^  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

68.— GUMBO  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Potage  Gombo.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  okras,  3  pints  beef  stock  (see  Recipe  No.  3, 
p.  139),  6  tomatoes,  £  pint  Lima  beans,  salt,  pepper,  i  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley. 

Method. —  Mince  the  okras,  and  cook  them  in  the  stock  with  the 
sliced  tomatoes  and  the  beans.  When  tender,  rub  all  through  a  fine 
sieve,  re-heat,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  i  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  parsley. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  23.  6d.  to  35.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

69.— HARE  SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Lievre.) 

Ingredients. — 3  quarts  of  second  stock,  i  hare  or  the  bones  and  in- 
ferior parts  of  a  hare,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  cornflour,  i 
small  onion,  i  small  carrot,  \  a  small  turnip,  i  strip  of  celery,  a  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  1 2  peppercorns,  i  glass  of  port  wine, 
salt. 

Method. — Wipe  the  hare  with  a  clean  damp  cloth  and  cut  it  into  small 
joints.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  hare,  the  vegetables 
sliced,  and  the  herbs,  and  fry  until  brown.  Add  the  stock,  salt  and 
peppercorns,  and  simmer  gently  for  3  hours.  Strain,  remove  the  meat 
from  the  bones,  and  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar.  Rub  it  through  a  fine 
sieve,  then  return  it  and  the  stock  to  the  stewpan,  and  when  boiling 
add  the  wine  and  the  cornflour,  previously  mixed  smoothly  together. 
Stir  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 4  hours.  Average  Cost,  43.  to  53.,  when  made  from  a  whole 
hare,  not  including  the  stock.  Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 
Sufficient  for  10  persons. 


RECIPES    FOR    THICK    SOUPS  167 

70.—  HARE  SOUP.    (Fr.—  Potage  de  Lievre.) 

Ingredients.—  A  hare  fresh  killed,  i  Ib.  of  gravy  beef,  \  lb.  of  raw  lean 
ham,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  well-browned  flour,  i  medium- 
sized  onion  stuck  with  3  cloves,  i  small  carrot  sliced,  \  of  a  pint  of  port 
wine  or  \  pint  of  good  stout,  salt  and  pepper,  3  quarts  of  water. 

Method.—  Skin  and  paunch  the  hare,  saving  as  much  blood  as  pos- 
sible. Divide  it  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  a  stew-jar,  add  the 
beef  and  ham  cut  into  small  pieces,  the  blood  and  liver  of  the  hare, 
the  water,  onion,  carrot,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper. 
Cover  closely,  and  cook  gently,  either  on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven,  for 
5  or  6  hours.  Meanwhile  brown  the  flour  either  in  a  clean  ir\  -in-. 


or  on  a  plate  in  the  oven,  let  it  cool,  then  blend  it  smoothly  with  the 
butter.  Form  into  small  balls,  and  add  them  with  the  wine  or  stout 
to  the  contents  of  the  stew-jar  about  i  hour  before  serving.  Strain, 
add  the  best  parts  of  the  hare,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time.—  From  5  4-  to  6\  hours.  Average  Cost,  6s.  to  8s.  Sufficient  for 
8  or  10  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

THE  COMMON  HARE  (Fr.  litu'e)  is  found  in  all  parts  of  Europe,  and  in  some  parts  of  Asia.     Its 
fur  is  tawny-red  in  the  back  and  white  underneath  ;    in  winter  the  colour  of  the  mountain  hare  of 
Northern  Europe  changes  to  white.     The  average  length  of  the  hare  is  about  two  feet,  and  it 
varies  from  8  lb.  to  14  lb.       The  flesh  is  dark  and  dry,  and  devoid  of  fat,  but  its   flavour 
esteemed.     When  old  the  ears  of  the  hare  are  dry  and  tough,  the  haunches  thick,  and  the  claw 
and  blunt.     The  ears  of  young  hares  tear  easily,  and  its  claws  are  both  smooth  and  sharp.     The 
hare  is  noted  for  its  timidity,  but,  as  a  protection  from  its  enemies,  it  possesses  great  acuteness  of 
hearing,  and  remarkable  swiftness  of  foot.     The  hare  and  rabbit  are  typical  examples  of  the  rodent 
quadrupeds  of  the  genus  Ltf>us. 

71.—  HUNTER'S  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Potage  a  la  Chasseur.) 

Ingredients.  —  5  pints  of  second  stock  or  water,  the  remains  of  phea- 
sants, partridges  or  other  game,  4  ozs.  of  raw  lean  ham,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  \  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion  sliced,  i  small  carrot  sliced,  i  or  2  strips  of  celery 
shredded,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Heat  half  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  game  divided 
into  small  pieces,  the  ham,  the  prepared  vegetables,  and  the  bouquet  - 
garni,  and  cook  slowly  for  \  an  hour,  turnim;  or  shaking  the  ingredients 
frequently.  Add  the  stock  or  water  and  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper, 
cover  closely,  and  simmer  gently  for  j  hours.  Meanwhile  heat  the 
remainder  of  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  gently  until  it  acquires 
a  nut-brown  colour.  Strain  the  stock  on  to  it,  stir  and  boil  gently  until 
quite  smooth,  then  garnish  with  a  few  strips  of  game  and  vegetables, 
season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time.  —  About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.,  in  addition  to  the  game 
and  stock.  Sufficient  for  8  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

72.—  KIDNEY  SOUP.       (Fr.—  Potage  aux  Rognons.) 

Ingredients.  —  3  pints   of   second   stock   or   water,   £  lb.    ox    kidney 


168  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

£  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of 
coarsely  chopped  onion,  £  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  and  kidney  into  very  small  pieces.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  fry  the  meat,  kidney,  parsley,  and  onion 
until  brown.  Put  in  the  stock  or  water,  salt  and  pepper,  bring  to  the 
boil,  skim  well,  then  cover,  and  simmer  gently  for  3  hours.  Strain, 
pound  the  meat  if  convenient,  if  not,  rub  as  much  as  possible  of  it 
through  a  wire  sieve.  Return  the  soup  to  the  saucepan,  and  when 
boiling  add  the  puree  of  meat,  and  the  flour  (previously  mixed  smoothly 
with  a  little  water),  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve.  If  preferred, 
the  soup  may  be  garnished  with  a  little  carrot  and  turnip,  cooked  and 
cut  into  some  small  fancy  shape. 

Time. — From  4  to  4^  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Seasonable 
at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

73.— LIEBIG  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  stock,  i  teaspoonful  "  Lemco  "  salt  and  pep- 
per, any  garnish  that  is  seasonable  or  liked. 

Method. — This  can  be  made  thick  or  clear.  It  is  quickly  prepared,  and 
is  very  tasty  as  well  as  nourishing.  To  every  pint  of  thick  or  clear 
soup  add  i  teaspoonful  of  Liebig's  Extract  of  Meat,  called  "  Lemco,"  stir 
until  it  boils,  and  serve  hot.  This  soup  may  be  varied  to  any  extent 
by  adding  such  vegetables  as  carrots,  turnips,  celery,  green  peas, 
asparagus,  vermicelli  or  macaroni  as  a  garnish.  Bone  stock  or 
gravy  stock  does  well  for  this  soup. 

Time. — 5  minutes  to  make  the  soup.  Average  cost,  without  garnish, 
about  6d. 


74.— MACARONI  SOUP.       (Fr.— Potage  de  Macaroni.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  stock  made  from  the  bones  and  trimmings 
of  meat  (see  Bone  Soup),  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  macaroni, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  macaroni  into  boiling  salted  water  and  boil  quickly 
until  tender  (20  to  30  minutes),  then  cut  it  into  short  lengths.  Boil  the 
stock,  knead  the  flour  and  the  butter  together,  add  the  compound  to 
the  stock,  and  stir  until  it  becomes  smoothly  mixed  with  it.  Season 
to  taste,  put  in  the  macaroni,  cook  for  5  minutes,  and  serve. 

Time. — 40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  2d.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

MACARONI  (Fr.  macaroni).— In  Italy,  and  especially  with  Neapolitans,  macaroni  is  a  popular 
article  of  food  It  is  prepared  from  hard  varieties  of  wheat,  which  is  ground  to  a  fine  meal  and  m.i<if 
into  a  stiff  paste  with  a  small  quantity  of  water.  The  mass,  placed  in  a  hollow,  cylindrical  v<  •  I. 
is  squeezed  through  apertures  of  various  sizes  by  means  of  a  powerful  screw.  That  pressed  through 


RECIPES    FOR    THICK    SOUPS  169 

fine  holes  is  called  vermicelli.  While  issuing  from  the  holes,  the  macaroni  is  partially  baked 
by  a  tire  placed  below  the  cylinder,  and  at  the  same  time  it  is  drawn  away  and  hung  over  r--d>  to  dry 
either  by  artificial  heat  or  in  the  sun  ;  the  sun-dried  macaroni  is  esteemed  the  best.  Macaroni  is 
a  nutritious  and  wholesome  food,  and  is  u?ed  for  thickening  soups,  for  puddings,  and  other  forms 
rv.  Macaroni  paste  rolled  out  into  flat  cakes  is  cut  into  various  shapes  and  devices,  and 
sold  under  the  designation  of  "  pastes." 

75.— MILK  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  au  Lait.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  boiling  milk,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  Hour, 
|  a  small  white  cabbage  finely  shredded,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Heat  the  butter  in  an  enamelled  or  well-lined  saucepan, 
add  the  cabbage,  and  let  it  cook  gently  for  15  or  20  minutes.  Now 
add  the  boiling  milk,  simmer  gently  for  about  10  minutes,  then  stir 
in  the  flour,  which  must  previously  have  been  smoothly  blended  with 
a  little  cold  water.  Stir  and  boil  gently  for  6  or  7  minutes,  then 
season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

76.— MULLIGATAWNY    SOUP.  (Fr.— Potage    a 

rindienne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  water,  2  Ib.  of  mutton  (a  tin  of  Australian 
mutton  may  be  used),  2  onions,  2  carrots,  2  apples,  i  small  turnip,  a 
bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
i  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder,  the  juice  of  ^  a  lemon,  salt. 

Method.— Remove  the  fat  from  the  mutton  and  melt  it  in  the  sauce- 
pan.    Have  the  apples  and  vegetables  ready  sliced,  and  when  tl 
suiticient  liquid   fat  to  fry    them,  take   out    the   pieces   of   fat,   put    in 
the  vegetables,  and  cook  them  for  15  minutes.     Sprinkle  in  the  Hour 
and  curry  powder,  fry  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  meat  in  small 

,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  herbs  and  water.  When  the  nun- 
pound  1  »oils(  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises,  then  cover  and  cook  gently 
for  3  hours.  Strain,  rub  the  meat  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  return  to 

uccpan.  When  boiling,  add  the  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and 
serve.  Well-cooked  rice  should  be  handed  round  with  this  soup. 

Time. — 4  to  4$-  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  IB.  8d.  Seasonable  at 
any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

—The  I  nines  and  remains  of  any  kind  of  meat  or    poultry   may  be 

1  of  Mutton.     The  soup  would  take  its  name  from   tho   m .r 
empl 

( >.\tail  Soup,  Indian  Style.        (Fr. — Queue  de  Bu-uf  a  I'lndienne.) 
Rabbit  Purde,  Indian  Style.      (Fr.— Pure-c  de  Lapin  a  ITndienne.) 

77-— OX   CHEEK   SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  de  Moufle  de 
Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. — 5  quarts  of  water,  i  ox  cheek,  2  onions,  2  carrots,  I 


170  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

turnip,  i  strip  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  basil,  mar- 
joram, bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns,  4  cloves,  2  blades  of  mace,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour. 

Method. — Soak  the  cheek  in  salt  and  warm  water  for  5  or  6  hours, 
changing  it  2  or  3  times.  Prepare  the  vegetables  and  cut  them  into 
thick  slices,  melt  the  butter  in  a  large  stewpan,  add  the  vegetables  to 
it,  and  fry  until  brown.  Well  wash  the  ox  cheek,  break  the  bones 
into  small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  the  stewpan  ;  also  put  in  the  herbs, 
seasonings,  meat  and  water.  Bring  slowly  to  the  boil,  skim  well, 
put  on  the  cover  and  simmer  gently  for  3  hours,  or  according  to  the 
size  of  the  cheek,  strain,  return  the  soup  to  the  saucepan,  and  bring 
to  the  boil.  Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water  or  stock, 
pour  it  into  the  soup,  stir  and  simmer  for  5  or  6  minutes.  Cut  the 
smaller  pieces  of  meat  into  dice  and  add  them  to  the  soup,  also  cut  a 
few  dice  of  cooked  celery  and  carrot.  Season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Seasonable  in  winter. 
Sufficient  for  12  persons. 

THYME  (Fr.  thym). — There  are  numerous  species  of  this  aromatic  plant,  which  are  native  to  the 
temperate  regions.  The  wild  variety  in  Britain  is  characterized  by  its  well-known  fragrant  smell. 
The  cultivated  garden-thyme  is  indigenous  to  the  south  of  Europe  ;  its  young  leaves  and  tops  are 
used  for  flavouring  soups  and  sauces,  and  as  an  ingredient  in  stuffings.  From  the  essential  oil  con- 
tained in  thyme  a  flavouring  essence  is  prepared. 

78.— OXTAIL  SOUP.         (Fr.—  Potage   de   Queue  de 
Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. — i  oxtail,  2  quarts  of  second  stock  or  water,  2  onions, 
2  carrots,  i  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  lean  ham 
or  bacon  (cut  into  dice  or  cubes),  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns,  2  cloves,  salt,  i  glass  of  sherry,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  cornflour. 

Method. — Cut  the  tail  into  small  joints,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  cover 
with  cold  water,  boil  up  and  strain.  Dry  the  pieces  of  oxtail, 
roll  them  in  flour,  put  them  with  the  ham  and  sliced  vegetables  and  but- 
ter into  the  stewpan,  and  fry  until  brown.  Then  add  the  stock,  herbs 
peppercorns,  cloves,  and  salt,  boil  and  skim  well.  Put  on  the  lid 
and  cook  very  gently  for  about  4  hours.  Strain,  remove  the  fat,  re- 
turn to  the  stewpan,  and  when  the  soup  boils  add  the  sherry  and  corn- 
flour smoothly  mixed  together,  stir  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes. 
Serve  the  smaller  pieces  of  the  tail  in  the  soup,  the  remainder  may  be 
re-heated  in  a  good  brown  sauce  and  served  as  an  entree. 

Time. — 5^  to  6  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

THE  Ox  (Fr. :  Boeuf).— The  name  of  various  breeds  of  ungulated  or  "  hoofed  "  ruminants  of  the 
sub-family  Bovidae.  Like  the  sheep,  the  ox  (including  under  this  designation  also  the  cow)  in  its 
domesticated  state  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  animals  for  its  flesh  and  the  various  products  of  its 
skin,  horns,  hair,  bones  and  milk.  So  highly  was  the  ox  prized  by  the  ancient  Egyptians  that  it 
was  regarded  as  a  special  object  of  worship,  and  at  the  present  day  the  cow  is  still  venerated  by  the 


RECIPES   FOR   THICK    SOUPS  171 

Hindus.  It  forms  one  of  the  signs  (Taurus)  of  the  Zodiac.  Oxen  and  sheep  have  from  the  earliest 
ages  been  used  for  religious  sacrifices.  They  also  constituted  the  wealth  of  the  earlier  races.  The 
original  stock  of  existing  breeds  is  unknown.  The  Chillingharn  cattle  are  a  type  of  the  older  wild  ox 
and  are  supposed  to  be  the  descendants  of  the  Urus,  or  "  mountain  bull,"  inhabiting  the  forest  districts 
of  Britain  at  the  time  of  the  Roman  invasion.  The  Aurochs,  or  Lithuanian  bison,  is  also  an  example 
of  the  wild  variety.  The  chief  breeds  in  Britain  are  the  Ayrshire,  Alderney,  Kyre,  and  Durham  short- 
horn, with  crosses  between  these  varieties,  bred  for  food  or  the  dairy.  A  large  quantity  of  beef  is 
now  imported  from  America  and  Canada.  Beef  constitutes  the  principal  article  of  animal  food,  and 
is  highly  nutritious,  but  less  digestible  than  mutton.  It's  constituents  are  : — In  100  parts  :  Water, 
72.0;  proteids,  21.0  ;  fats,  6.0  ;  salts,  i.o. 

79.— PARTRIDGE  SOUP.       (Fr.— Potage  de  Perdrix.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  second  stock,  i  cold  roast  partridge,  or  the 
remains  of  two  or  three,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  calf's  or  chicken's  liver,  2  ozs.  of 
lean  bacon  or  ham,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  bouquet-garni 
(parsley,  basil,  marjoram,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  glass  of  port  or  sherry, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  a  teaspoonful  of  small  dice  from  the  breasts  of  the  birds 
and  put  them  aside.  Cut  the  remainder  of  the  birds  into  small  pieces, 
the  liver  into  thin  slices,  and  the  bacon  into  dice.  Fry  all  these  to- 
gether in  i  oz.  of  butter  until  brown,  then  add  the  stock,  bouquet-garni, 
seasoning,  and  simmer  gently  for  i£  to  2  hours,  keeping  the  compound 
well  skimmed  ;  strain,  pound  the  meat  in  a  mortar  and  rub  it  through 
a  sieve,  or,  when  pounding  is  inconvenient,  rub  as  much  as  possible 
through  a  wire  sieve.  Melt  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter,  stir  in  the  flour, 
and  cook  until  brown.  Pour  in  the  stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  add  the 
puree  of  meat,  wine,  seasoning  if  necessary,  the  dice  of  partridge, 
simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve. 

Time. — 2£  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  without  stock  and  partridge. 
Seasonable  from  September  i  to  February.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

THE  PARTRIDGE  (Fr.  perdrix).—The  common  partridge  is  in  Britain  the  most  abundant  of  the  game 
birds,  and  belongs  to  the  same  family  as  the  grouse.  Its  general  colour  i  %  .iried  by  brown 

and  black.     The  male  partridge  is  about  12  inches  in  length  ;    the  female  is  soraewh 
feeds  principally  on  grain  and  insects.     The  eggs  are  olive-brown,  and  •  :  rood  is  known 

A  characteristic  of  the  partridges  is  their  habit  of  associating  together  and  fr. 
their  native  locality.     The  French  partridge,  or  red-legged  vari<  : 

is  larger  than  the  English  variety,  and  is  mun<«r.Mis  1:1  the  eastern  counties  of  England.     It  i- 
on  the  wing  tli.m  tlie  English  bird,  and  does  not  fly  in  coveys.      The  eye  is  pi-milled  in  front  and 
behind  by  a  white  line,  and  its  eggs  are  yellowish  white  marked  with  brown.     In  the  Unit, 
several  species  of  quail  are  .ailed  p.irtridges. 

80.— QUEEN  SOUP.      (Fr.— Potage  a  la  Reine.) 

Ingredients. —  i  chicken,  3  quarts  of  white  stock,  4  ozs.  of  bacon,  i 
carrot,  i  onion,  i  bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  almonds,  4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  chicken  quenelles,  seasoning, 
|  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Slice  the  bacon  and  put  in  a  stewpan  together  with  the 
vegetables,  herbs,  etc.  Place  the  chicken,  previously  trussed  as  for 
boiling,  on  top,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  pour  in  i  quart  of  stock, 
cover  with  a  lid,  and  let  it  reduce  slowly;  add  the  remainder  of  the 
stock,  boil  slowly,  skim,  and  continue  to  boil  until  tender.  Remove  the 


173  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

chicken,  free  it  from  skin  and  bones;  pound  the  meat  in  a  mortar  with 
breadcrumbs,  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg,  moisten  with  all  the  stock, 
and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  to  the  stewpan.  Peel  and 
pound  the  almonds,  boil  in  milk  and  pass  through  a  tammy.  Add  this 
to  the  soup  together  with  the  butter  just  before  serving.  Serve  the 
soup  with  a  garnish  of  small  chicken  quenelles,  also  a  handful  of  freshly 
cooked  peas  or  asparagus  points. 

Average  Cost. — 6s.  icd.  Sufficient  for  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

8 1. —RABBIT  SOUP  WITH  SORREL.        (Fr.—  Potage 
de  Lapin  a  1'Oseille.) 

Ingredients. — 3  quarts  of  water,  i  rabbit,  £  a  Ib.  of  shin  of  beef,  2  ozs. 
of  lean  bacon,  i  onion,  i  small  carrot,  a  few  leaves  of  sorrel,  10  pepper- 
corns, 2  cloves,  2  blades  of  mace,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i^  ozs.  of  flour,  i 
dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  bacon  into  dice  or  cubes,  the  beef  into  small  pieces, 
and  the  rabbit  into  small  joints  :  from  the  back  cut  one  or  two  nice 
fillets.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  large  stewpan,  and  fry  the  beef,  bacon, 
and  rabbit  until  brown  ;  put  the  small  fillets  aside,  to  be  used  later  as 
a  garnish.  Add  the  water,  sliced  carrot,  the  onion,  into  which  the 
cloves  should  be  stuck,  peppercorns,  mace  and  salt,  bring  slowly  to  the 
boil,  and  skim  well.  Cook  slowly  for  3  hours,  then  strain.  Put  the 
beef  into  the  stock-pot.  The  meat  of  the  rabbit  and  the  bacon  pound 
well,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Re-heat  the  soup,  mix  the  flour 
smoothly  with  a  little  cold  stock,  add  it  to  the  soup,  stir  and  cook  for  a 
few  minutes.  Put  in  the  puree  of  meat.  Wash  the  sorrel,  cut  it  into 
fine  shreds,  blanch,  strain,  and  put  into  the  soup.  Cut  the  fillets  of 
fried  rabbit  into  dice,  and  add  them,  together  with  the  lemon-juice, 
parsley,  and  any  necessary  seasoning,  to  the  soup,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost.  2s.  4d.  to  2S.  6d.  Seasonable 
from  September  to  March.  Sufficient  for  10  persons. 

82.— RABBIT    SOUP    (WHITE).        (Fr.— Potage    de 
Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  3  pints  of  second  stock,  i  pint  of  water,  4  ozs. 
of  gammon  of  bacon,  i  onion,  a  piece  of  celery,  i  small  bunch  of  savoury 
herbs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  seasoning. 

Method. — Skin  the  rabbit,  wipe  it  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  cut  it  up 
into  small  pieces.  Put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  3  pints  of  stock  and  i  pint 
of  water,  bring  it  to  the  boil,  skim,  and  add  the  bacon,  the  onion  (stuck 
with  a  clove),  celery  and  herbs.  Cook  gently  for  i£  hours,  or  until 


RECIPES   FOR   THICK    SOUPS  17.* 

the  meat  is  quite  tender.  Remove  the  best  pieces  of  rabbit  (these  can 
be  used  for  croquettes,  etc.),  and  the  bunch  of  herbs.  Melt  the  butter, 
add  the  flour,  mix  well,  stir  in  the  milk,  and  boil.  Stir  into  the 
pan  containing  the  soup,  simmer  for  20  minutes,  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Re-heat,  and  add,  if 
liked,  a  cupful  of  cream.  Serve  with  fried  bread  croutons. 

Time. — ij  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  8  persons. 
Seasonable  from  October  to  January. 

83.— RABBIT  SOUP  (BROWN.) 

This  is  made  in  a  similar  manner  as  explained  in  the  foregoing  recipe, 
the  only  difference  being  that  the  rabbit  is  fried  after  it  is  cut  up,  and 
brown  stock  should  be  used.  The  bacon  and  rabbit  should  bo  friod  in 
dripping  until  they  acquire  a  brown  colour,  after  which  the  Hour  used 
for  thickening  must  be  fried  also.  The  stock  and  water  is  then 
added,  with  the  vegetables,  etc.  Cook  gently  for  i£  hours,  and  strain, 
season  to  taste,  then  serve.  This  soup  should  be  of  a  dark  fawn  colour. 
It  is  best  to  omit  the  cream  mentioned  in  the  foregoing  recipe. 

84.- RICE  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Potage  au  Riz.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  second  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  tho  yolks 
of  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper,  3  tablospoonfuls  of  rice. 

Method. — Boil    the    stock,    add    the    rice,     previously     woll-waslu -d, 
and  simmer  gently  for  about  £  hour,  or  until  the  rice  is  thoroughly 
cooked.      Kub  through  a  hair  siove,  return  to  the  stcwpan,  add  tho  milk, 
and  boil.     Bout  tho  yolks  of  tho  eggs  with  a  littlo  milk   or  cold 
lot  the  soup  cool  slightly,  then  pour  in  the  eggs  and  stir  until  tho 
thickens.     Season  to  taste,  and  servo. 

Time. — £  to  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  all  tho  your.  Sufficient  lor  6  persons. 

i  r.  :  Kiz).  -This  important  fo,,l-plant,  whi<  h  Ix-longs  to  the  natural  order  of  th«-  < 
known  in  ti:  .in  rd  into  h..  !  t,,rms  the  prim  ip  il 

article  of  dirt  of  the  Hindu-  .-rounds  of  die 

tro|,ir.,l  aiul  suh-tropieal  di^tn.  ts  ,,\  S..uth-1-ast  Asia,  Egypt 
and  grows  luxuriantly  in  tin-  rii-h  alluvial  de;  ,1k  of  the  ri- e  pl.i    • 

;  >imd.  and  jointed  ;    it>  leaves  an    lar.  l,ap.,|  ; 

;  an-  whit.-  and  oblong,  varving  in  form  a.  eording  to  th«-  differ.- 

:.  and  other  kinds.     Rice  in  the  husk  is  called  "  paddy."     It  is  a  light  and  wl 
fool,  but  i>  vrv  p. *.r  and  deficient  in  ] 

proporii ,f  niti. -,-nous  or  Sesh- forming  matter.  5   in   100  parts,  and  should  \m  used  in  i..mbini- 

tion  with  meat,  pe  is,  or  beans  to  supply  the  proteiils,  fat,  and  tommon  salt. 

85.— SAGO  SOUP.      (Fr.— Potage  de  Sagou  a  la  Creme. ) 

Ingredients.— 3  pints  of  second  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  .{  a  pint  of  cream, 

JO,  tho  yolks..'  buy-loaf,  su^'ur.  salt  and  prppor. 

Method. —Put    tin-  stork   .md   buy  l<-af  into  a  stowpun,  wlion  boiling 


174  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

sprinkle  in  the  sago  and  cook  gently  for  20  minutes,  or  until  the  sago 
is  transparent.  Add  the  milk,  a  good  pinch  of  sugar,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  and  continue  to  simmer  a  few  minutes  longer.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  cream  together,  add  these  to  the  soup,  and 
stir  until  it  thickens,  but  it  must  not  be  allowed  to  boil  or  the  eggs  will 
curdle.  Remove  the  bay-leaf,  and  serve. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  8  persons. 

Note. — This  Soup,  the  principal  ingredients  of  which  are  sago  and  eggs, 
has  always  been  considered  very  beneficial  to  the  chest  and  throat.  In 
various  quantities  and  indiiferent  preparations,  sago  and  eggs  have  been  par- 
taken of  by  many  famous  singers,  including  the  celebrated"  Swedish  Night- 
ingale," Jenny  Lind,  with  considerable  benefit  to  the  voice  in  singing. 

SAGO  (Fr. :  Sagou). — A  farinaceous  food  obtained  from  the  cellular  starchy  pith  of  several  species 
of  a  genus  of  palms,  especially  Sagus  Laevis  and  Sagus  Rumphii,  the  latter  yielding  the  finest  kind  of 
sago.  Both  of  these  species  are  natives  of  the  Malay  Archipelago.  The  Malay  word  saga  means 
"  bread,"  from  the  circumstance  that  sago  forms  the  chief  farinaceous  diet  of  the  Malays.  To  procure 
sago  the  trees,  which  grow  to  a  height  of  about  thirty  feet,  with  a  diameter  of  about  one  and  a  half  feet, 
are  felled,  with  their  flowering  spike  forms.  From  the  stems,  which  are  cut  into  convenient  sections, 
the  pith  is  extracted,  and  beaten  in  receptacles  of  cold  water  to  separate  the  starch  granules  from  the 
woody  filaments  with  which  they  are  associated.  After  washing  and  straining,  the  meal  is  dried. 
For  exportation  the  moist  sago  is  dried  and  rubbed  to  smaller  granular  pellets,  and  according  to  the 
size  of  these  is  designated  "  pearl,"  "  medium,"  or  "  bullet  "  sago.  An  imitation  is  made  from  potato 
starch,  but  is  easily  detected  by  the  microscope.  A  common  variety  of  sago  is  made  in  India  and 
Ceylon  from  various  palm-trees.  Sago,  from  its  ready  solubility,  is  easy  of  digestion,  and  is  a  valuable 
light,  nutritious,  farinaceous  food.  It  is  largely  used  in  the  preparation  of  soluble  cocoas. 

86.— SHIN  OF  BEEF  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  de  Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  shin  of  beef,  3  quarts  of  water,  2  ozs.  of  butter 
or  dripping,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion  sliced,  i  carrot  sliced,  £  of  a  turnip 
sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  salt. 

Method. — Heat  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  prepared  onion, 
carrot  and  turnip,  and  fry  them  brown.  Add  the  water,  the  meat  cut 
into  small  pieces,  the  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns,  and  a  little  salt, 
and  simmer  gently  for  3  or  4  hours.  Strain,  skim  well,  re-heat,  and 
stir  in  the  flour  previously  mixed  with  a  little  cold  water.  Boil 
gently  for  5  or  6  minutes,  then  serve  garnished  with  a  little  cooked 
vegetable,  macaroni,  or  other  farinaceous  substance. 

Time. — From  3^  to  4^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  sd.  Sufficient 
for  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

87.— SOUP  WITHOUT  MEAT.      (Fr.— Soupe  Maigre.) 

Ingredients. — 2^  quarts  of  boiling  water,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  2  onions  cut 
into  dice,  i  head  of  celery  cut  into  dice,  2  lettuces  shredded,  2  handfuls 
of  spinach,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley,  2  or  3  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  the 
yolks  of  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper. 


RECIPES  FOR  THICK  SOUPS  175 

Method. — Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  prepared  vegetables, 
cover  closely,  and  cook  very  slowly  for  about  \  an  hour.  Now  add  the 
boiling  water  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  gently 
until  all  the  vegetables  are  tender.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  slightly, 
add  gradually  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  the  boiling  soup,  and  when 
thoroughly  blended  add  the  preparation  to  the  contents  of  the  sauce- 
pan. Stir  and  cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes  to  cook  the  eggs,  then 
add  salt,  pepper,  and  vinegar  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i|  to  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  perons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

LETTUCE  (Fr. :  Laitue). — A  herbaceous  annual  plant  of  the  genus  iMctuca  of  the  order  Composite 
which  includes  the  chicory  tribe,  with  small  pale  yellow  flowers.  It  grows  in  the  temperate  regions, 
and  the  garden  lettuce  is  cultivated  as  a  salad  herb.  The  lettuce  was  known  to  the  Greeks  and  Romans, 
and  has  been  in  use  in  England  since  the  time  of  Elizabeth.  There  are  various  gardeners'  varieties  of 
the  lettuce — modifications  of  the  cabbage  variety,  and  that  with  long  oblong  leaves.  The  lettuce 
should  be  eaten  while  young  ;  when  in  flower  it  possesses  narcotic  and  poisonous  properties.  From 
the  characteristc  milky  juice  of  the  lettuce,  Lactucorium,  or  "  lettuce  opium,"  used  medicinally  as  an 
anodyne,  is  prepared. 


88.— SPRING     SOUP    WITHOUT     MEAT. 
(Fr. — Potage  Printaniere  Maigre.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  water,  i  head  of  lettuce,  J  of  a  white-heart 
cabbage,  i  carrot,  i  turnip,  i  onion,  2  leeks,  £  a  head  of  celery,  i  small 
cauliflower,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  croutons  (or  small  slices)  of  toasted  bread, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  flower  of  the  cauliflower  into  small  pieces  and  put 
them  aside,  cut  the  tender  part  of  the  stalk  into  small  pieces.  Prepare 
the  rest  of  the  vegetables  and  shred  them  finely,  melt  the  butter  in  a 
large  stewpan,  put  in  the  shredded  vegetables  and  the  stalk  of  the  cauli- 
flower, and  cook  without  browning  for  20  minutes.  Add  to  them  the 
water,  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  gently  until  tender  (about  i  hour)  ; 
20  minutes  before  serving,  put  in  the  sprays  of  cauliflower.  Cut  2  or 
3  slices  of  very  thin  well-browned  toast  into  small  dice,  and  put  them 
into  the  tureen.  Add  any  necessary  seasoning  to  the  soup,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Seasonable  in  spring. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


89.— TAPIOCA    CREAM    SOUP.       (Fr.— Potage    au 
Tapioca.) 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  white  stock,  or  half  stock  and  half  milk, 
i  of  a  pint  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  3  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  fine  sago  or 
crushed  tapioca,  salt  and  pepper. 


176  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — The  stock  should  be  well  flavoured,  otherwise  it  must  be 
simmered  with  a  little  onion,  carrot,  celery  and  herbs,  and  then  strained 
for  use.  Bring  the  stock  to  boiling  point,  sprinkle  in  the  sago,  or  what- 
ever is  used  in  its  place,  and  stir  and  cook  until  it  becomes  transparent, 
then  let  the  soup  cool  slightly.  Mix  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  cream 
together  (a  £•  of  a  pint  of  milk  may  be  substituted  when  it  is  not  con- 
venient to  use  cream),  add  to  the  soup  and  stir  till  it  thickens  :  it 
should  have  the  consistency  of  single  cream.  When  a  thicker  soup 
is  desired,  mix  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  or  cornflour  with  a  little  milk, 
and  add  it  to  the  soup  at  the  same  time  as  the  sago.  Season  to  taste, 
and  serve. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.  Cost,  about  pd.,  not  including  the  stock. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  8  persons. 

90.— TOMATO  SOUP.       (Fr.—  Potage  aux  Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  second  stock  or  water,  2  Ib.  of  tomatoes, 
either  fresh  or  tinned,  2  ozs.  of  lean  ham  (this  may  be  omitted  when 
using  stock),  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  fine  sago,  i  onion,  1 
carrot,  or  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt,  pepper, 
castor-sugar. 

Method. — Slice  the  tomatoes,  onion  and  carrot  ;  cut  the  ham  into  small 
dice  cubes.  Melt  the  butter,  add  to  it  the  ham,  carrot  and  onion,  fry 
for  5  minutes,  put  in  the  tomatoes  and  herbs,  and  cook  for  15  minutes 
longer.  Pour  in  the  stock  or  water,  and  cook  gently  until  the  vege- 
tables are  tender,  then  rub  the  ingredients  through  a  wire  sieve.  Re- 
turn the  soup  to  the  stewpan,  and  when  boiling  sprinkle  in  the  sago 
and  cook  until  it  becomes  transparent.  Season  to  taste,  add  a  good 
pinch  of  sugar,  and  serve.  Croutons,  or  small  slices  of  fried  or  toasted 
bread,  should  be  served  separately. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  lod.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  at  any  time,  but  more  especially  in  summer.  Sufficient  for  6 
persons. 

91.— TOMATO    SOUP   (without  meat).     (Fr.— Potage 
de  Tomate  Maigre.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fresh  tomatoes,  i  Spanish  onion,  a  small  bunch 
of  mixed  herbs,  3  pints  of  water,  salt  and  pepper,  i  oz.  of  crushed 
tapioca  or  semolina,  2  ozs.  of  butter. 

Method, — Peel  and  slice  the  onion,  cut  the  tomatoes  into  small  slices. 
Fry  the  onion  a  nice  light  brown  in  the  butter,  add  the  tomatoes,  and 
fry  them  a  little,  then  put  in  the  water  and  the  bunch  of  herbs.  Allow 


fcECIPfcS  FOR  THICK  SOUPS  177 

all  to  cook  till  tender,  rub  through  a  hair  sieve,  return  to  the  slcwp.in, 
season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  boiling,  gradually  add 
the  tapioca  or  semolina,  and  cook  for  10  minutes  longer.  Serve  with 
small  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Time.— One  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  7d-  Seasonable  at 
any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

92.— TOMATO    AND    LENTIL    SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage 
de  Tomates  et  Lentilles.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of 
lentils,  2  ozs.  of  lean  bacon  or  ham,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  Ib. 
of  tomatoes  (fresh  or  preserved),  i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  i  small 
leek,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns,  2 
cloves,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  soak  the  lentils  for  12  hours,  and  drain  well 
before  using.  Slice  all  the  vegetables,  and  cut  the  bacon  int<> 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  ham  and  all  the-  vegetables, 
the  tomatoes,  and  cook  slowly  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the 
tomatoes  and  lentils,  cover  closely,  and  steam  the  contents  of  the 
stewpan  for  15  or  20  minutes.  Add  the  stock  or  water,  bowquet-garni, 
peppercorns,  and  cloves,  and  simmer  for  3  hours,  or  until  the  lentils 
arc  tender.  Strain,  return  to  the  saucepan,  and  when  boiling  add  the 
milk.  Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  stock  or  milk,  and  add  it 
to  the  boiling  soup.  Stir  and  simmer  for  a  few  minutes  to  cook  the 
flour,  then  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 4  to  4^  hours.  Average  Cost,  lid.  or  is.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

93.— TURKEY  SOUP.     (Fr.— Botage  de  Dinde.') 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  white  second  stock,  the  remains  of  a  cold 
turkey,  2  ozs.  of  cooked  macaroni,  i£  ozs.  of  crenu-  de  riz  (rice- 
flour),  i  small  onion,  i  bay-leaf,  i  small  blade  of  mace,  salt  and  p- 
Method. — Divide  the  remains  of  the  turkey  and  the  bones  into  small 
,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  onion,  bay-leaf,  mace,  ami 
a  little  salt  and  pepper  or  peppercorns,  add  the  stock,  and  simmer 
gently  for  3  hours.     Strain,  return  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  < 

,  previously  blended  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  stuck  or  milk, 
stir  and  boil  gently  for  7  or  8  minutes.  Have  the  a  i  i  ready 
boiled  and  cut  into  very  short  lengths,  put  it  into  the  soup,  season  to 

make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  3!  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.,  in  addition  to  the  stock 
and  turkey.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

THE  TURKEY  (Fr. :  Dtndon}.— This  well-known  bird  is  a  native  of  North  Amrr;  .hound-* 

I*  a  wild  state.     It  was  introduced  •  ntury.     Die  phunage  oi  the  wild 

male  bit  The  turkey 

for  the  excellence  of  its  ilesh  and  eggs.  Iu  its  domesticated  state  it  is  a  very  delicate  bird  aud 
ditiicuit  tu  rear. 


178  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

94.— TURTLE    SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage    Tortue.) 
(Founded  on  M.  Ude's  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — A  very  small  turtle,  6  slices  of  ham,  2  knuckles  of  veal, 
i  large  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  3  bay-leaves,  parsley,  green  onions,  i 
onion,  6  cloves,  3  blades  of  mace,  £  Ib.  of  fresh  butter,  i  bottle  of 
Madeira,  i  lump  of  sugar. 

For  the  Quenelles  a  la  tortue  i  Ib.  of  veal,  i  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs, 
milk,  7  eggs,  cayenne,  salt,  spices,  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  2 
lemons. 

Method. — To  make  this  soup  more*  easily,  cut  off  the  head  of  the  turtle 
the  preceding  day.  In  the  morning  open  the  turtle  by  leaning  heavily 
with  a  knife  on  the  shell  of  the  animal's  back,  while  you  cut  this  off 
all  round.  Turn  the  turtle  upright  on  its  end  to  drain  out  all  the  water, 
etc.,  then  cut  the  flesh  off  along  the  spine  with  the  knife  sloping  towards 
the  bones,  so  as  to  avoid  touching  the  gall,  which  sometimes  may 
escape  the  eye.  When  all  the  flesh  about  the  members  is  obtained, 
wash  these  clean,  and  let  them  drain.  Have  ready,  on  the  fire,  a  large 
vessel  full  of  boiling  water,  into  which  put  the  shells  ;  when  you  per- 
ceive that  they  come  off  easily,  take  them  out  of  the  water,  and  prick 
them  all,  with  those  of  the  back,  belly,  fins,  head,  etc.  Boil  the  back 
and  the  belly  until  the  bones  can  be  taken  out,  without,  however, 
allowing  the  softer  parts  to  be  sufficiently  done,  as  they  will  be  boiled 
again  in  the  soup.  When  these  latter  come  off  easily,  lay  them  on 
earthen  dishes  singly  for  fear  they  should  stick  together,  and  put  them 
to  cool.  Keep  the  liquor  in  which  you  have  blanched  the  softer  parts, 
and  let  the  bones  stew  thoroughly  in  it,  this  liquor  being  valuable  for 
moistening  sauces. 

All  the  flesh  of  the  interior  parts,  the  four  legs  and  head,  must  be 
drawn  down  in  the  following  manner  :  Lay  the  slices  of  ham  on  the 
bottom  of  a  very  large  stewpan,  over  them  the  knuckles  of  veal,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  turtle  ;  then  the  inside  flesh  of  the  turtle,  and,  over 
the  whole,  the  members.  Now  moisten  with  the  water  in  which  you 
are  boiling  the  shell,  and  draw  it  down  thoroughly.  You  may  now 
ascertain  if  it  be  perfectly  done  by  thrusting  a  knife  into  the  fleshy 
part  of  the  meat.  If  no  blood  appears,  it  is  time  to  moisten  it  again  with 
the  liquor  in  which  the  bones,  etc.,  have  been  boiling.  Put  in  a  large 
bunch  of  all  such  sweet  herbs  as  are  adapted  for  the  cooking  of  a  turtle 
— sweet  basil,  sweet  marjoram,  lemon  thyme,  winter  savory,  2  or  3 
bay-leaves,  common  thyme,  a  handful  of  parsley  and  green  onions,  and 
a  large  onion  stuck  with  6  cloves.  Let  the  members  be  thoroughly 
cooked,  probe  them  to  see  if  they  are  done,  and  if  so,  drain 
and  send  them  to  the  larder,  as  they  are  to  make  their  appearance 
only  when  the  soup  is  absolutely  completed.  When  the  flesh  is 
also  completely  cooked,  strain  it  through  a  silk  sieve,  and  make  a 


RECIPES  FOR  THICK  SOUPS  179 

very  thin  white  roux  (i.e.,  a  preparation  of  butter  and  flour),  for  turtle 
soup  must  not  be  thickened  very  much.  When  the  flour  is  sufficiently 
done  on  a  slow  fire,  and  has  a  good  colour,  moisten  it  with  the  liquor, 
keeping  it  over  the  fire  until  it  boils.  Ascertain  that  the  sauce  is  neither 
too  thick  nor  too  thin  ;  then  draw  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  stove 
and  skim  off  the  white  scum,  and  all  the  fat  and  oil  that  rises  to  the 
surface  of  the  sauce.  By  this  time  all  the  softer  parts  will  be  sufficient- 
ly cold  ;  they  must  be  cut  about  i  or  2  inches  square,  and  thrown 
into  the  soup,  which  must  now  be  left  to  simmer  gently.  When 
done,  skim  off  all  the  fat  and  froth.  Take  all  the  leaves  of  the 
herbs  from  the  stock — sweet  basil,  sweet  marjoram,  lemon  thyme, 
winter  savory,  2  or  3  bay-leaves,  common  thyme,  a  handful  of  parsley 
and  green  onions,  and  a  large  onion  cut  in  4  pieces,  with  a  few  blades  of 
mace.  Put  these  in  a  stewpan,  with  about  £  of  a  Ib.  of  fresh  butter, 
and  let  it  simmer  on  a  slow  fire  till  quite  melted,  then  pour  in  i  bottle 
of  good  Madeira,  adding  a  small  piece  of  sugar,  and  let  it  boil  gently 
for  i  hour.  When  done,  rub  it  through  a  tammy-cloth,  and  add  it 
to  the  soup.  Let  this  boil  till  no  white  scum  rises  ;  then  with  a  skimmer 
remove  all  the  bits  of  turtle  out  of  the  sauce,  and  put  them  in  a  clean 
stewpan  ;  when  you  have  taken  all  out,  pour  the  soup  over  the  pieces 
of  turtle,  through  a  tammy-cloth,  and  proceed  as  follows  : — 

Quenelles  a  la  Tortue. — Make  some  quenelles  a  la  tortue,  which  do  not 
require  to  be  very  delicate,  being  substitutes  for  eggs.  Take  from  the 
fleshy  part  of  a  leg  of  veal  about  i  Ib.,  scrape  off  all  the  meat,  without 
any  sinews  or  fat.  Soak  about  the  same  quantity  of  crumbs  of 
bread  in  milk.  When  the  bread  is  well  soaked,  squeeze  it,  and 
put  it  into  a  mortar  with  the  veal,  a  small  quantity  of  calf's  udder,  a 
little  butter,  the  yolks  of  4  eggs,  boiled  hard,  a  little  cayenne  pepper, 
salt  and  spices,  and  pound  the  whole  very  fine  ;  then  thicken  the 
mixture  with  2  whole  eggs  and  the  yolk  of  another.  Next  try  this  farce 
or  stuffing,  in  boiling  hot  water,  to  ascertain  its  consistency ;  if  it  is  too 
thin,  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  When  the  farce  is  perfected,  take  half  of 
it,  and  put  into  it  some  chopped  parsley.  Let  the  whole  cool,  then  form 
it  into  the  shape  and  size  of  the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  poach  them  in  salt  and 
boiling  water,  and  when  very  hard  drain  on  a  sieve,  and  put  it  into  the 
soup.  Before  serving,  squeeze  the  juice  of  2  or  3  lemons  upon  a  little 
cayenne  pepper  and  pour  into  the  soup.  The  fins  may  be  served 
as  an  entree  with  a  little  turtle  sauce  ;  if  not,  on  the  following  day 
you  may  warm  the  turtle  in  the  bain  marie,  and  serve  the  members 
entire,  with  a  matelote  sauce,  garnished  with  mushrooms,  cocks' 
combs,  quenelles,  etc.  When  either  lemon-juice  or  cayenne  pepper 
has  been  introduced  no  boiling  must  take  place. 

• — It  is  necessary  to  observe  that  the  turtle  prepared  a  day  before  it 
is  used  is  generally  preferable,  the  flavour  being  more  uniform.  Be  particular, 
when  you  dress  a  very  large  turtle,  to  preserve  the  green  fat  in  a  separate  stew- 
pan (be  cautious  not  to  turn  it  a  brown  colour — the  natural  green  of  the 


i8o  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

fish  is  preferred  by  every  epicure  and  true  connoisseur),  and  also  when  the 
turtle  is  entirely  done,  to  have  as  many  tureens  as  you  mean  to  serve  each 
time.  You  cannot  put  the  whole  in  a  large  vessel,  for  various  reasons  :  first, 
it  will  be  long  in  cooling  ;  secondly,  when  you  take  some  out,  it  will  break 
all  the  rest  into  rags.  If  you  warm  it  in  a  bain-marie  (a  vessel  immersed  in 
another  outer  vessel  of  water),  the  turtle  will  always  retain  the  same  taste  ; 
but  if  you  boil  it  often  it  becomes  strong,  and  loses  its  delicacy  of  flavour. 

The  Cost  of  Turtle  Soup. — This  is  the  most  expensive  soup  brought  to 
table.  It  is  sold  by  the  quart — one  guinea  being  the  standard  price 
for  that  quantity.  The  price  of  live  turtle  ranges  from  8d.  to  2s.  per 
lb.,  according  to  supply  and  demand.  When  live  turtle  is  dear,  many 
cooks  use  the  tinned  turtle,  which  is  killed  when  caught,  and  pro- 
served  by  being  put  into  hermetically-sealed  canisters,  and  so  sent 
over  to  England.  The  cost  of  a  tin,  containing  2  quarts,  or  4  lb., 
is  about  £i,  and  for  a  small  one,  containing  the  green  fat,  33.  6d.  From 
these  about  6  quarts  of  good  soup  may  be  made.  Sun-dried  turtle  is 
also  sold,  and  answers  very  well.  It  requires  to  be  soaked  as  well  as 
stewed  for  a  long  time,  and  put  into  good  stock. 

THE  GREEN  TURTLE  (Fr.  :  Tortue)  is  the  best  known  of  the  various  species  of  turtles,  from  the  fact 
that  its  flesh  furnishes  the  materials  for  the  rich  soup  so  highly  prized  as  a  table  delicacy.  The  fat  of 
its  upper  and  lower  shields  is  considered  the  richest  and  most  delicate  part.  The  green  turtle  is  an 
inhabitant  of  the  warm  seas  of  the  Atlantic  and  Indian  Oceans,  and  is  common  at  the  Antilles  and 
round  the  coast  of  Ascension  Island.  It  attains  the  dimensions  of  five  to  seven  feet,  and  often  weighs 
about  700  pounds.  The  eggs  of  the  green  turtle  are  esteemed  a  delicacy.  Turtles  are 'amphibious 
and  feed  upon  marine  plants.  The  turtle  as  an  article  of  luxury  is  popularly  associated  with  the  Lord 
Mayors'  banquets. 

95.— VEGETABLE    SOUP.       (Fr.— Potage    aux    Le- 
gumes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  carrots,  i  turnip,  i  onion,  i  leek,  2  strips  of  celery, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i^  ozs.  of 
flour,  i  pint  of  boiling  water,  i  pint  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  the  vegetables  and  cut  them  into  strips  about  the 
size  of  a  short  and  rather  thick  match.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
and  fry  the  vegetables  very  slowly  until  the  butter  is  absorbed,  then 
add  the  water,  £•  of  the  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  gently  until 
the  vegetables  are  tender  (5  to  10  minutes).  Mix  the  flour  and  the 
rest  of  the  milk. smoothly  together,  pour  the  mixture  into  the  saucepan, 
stir  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  prepare  the  vegetables,  20  to  30  minutes.  To  make  Ihc 
soup,  25  to  30  minutes.  Cost,  about  5d.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

96.— VEGETABLE    SOUP    (THICK).        (Fr.— Potage 
aux  Legumes,  Lie.) 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  water,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  ]  a 
turnip,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  lentils,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  pearl-barley 


RECIPES   FOR  THICK   SOUPS  181 

(rice,  sago  or  tapioca  may  be  used  instead),  I  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  lentils  in  two  or  three  waters,  then  put  them 
and  the  water  into  a  saucepan  and  cook  gently.  Cut  the  vegetables  into 
dice  or  cubes.  Blanch  the  barley  by  putting  it  into  cold  water  and  bring- 
ing it  to  the  boil,  strain,  wash  well,  and  add  it  to  the  lentils.  When 
the  lentils  and  barley  are  cooked,  put  in  all  the  vegetables,  salt  and 
pepper,  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes,  then  add  the  milk.  Mix  the 
flour  smoothly  with  a  little  water,  pour  it  into  the  soup,  and  stir 
until  it  boils.  Simmer  a  few  minutes  longer,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — i  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  Seasonable  at  any 
time,  but  more  particularly  so  in  winter.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

97.— WHITE  OR  MILK  SOUP.  (Fr.— Potage  au  Lait.) 

Ingredients. — 2\  pints  ot  milk,  3  tablcspoonfuls  of  cooked  rice,  \\  ozs. 
of  flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  i  saltspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  lemon-rind,  \  of  a  saltspoonful  of  ground  mace,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk  or  water, 
add  it  to  the  milk  when  quite  boiling,  and  stir  until  it  thickens  slightly. 
Put  in  the  onion,  lemon-rind,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper, 
simmer  gently  for  15  minutes,  then  add  the  prepared  ri< 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  fid.  Sufficient  for  5  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

98.— WINTER  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  d'Hiver.) 

Ingredients. —  i  small  white  cabbage,  i  small  onion,  i  leek,  i  oz.  of 
butter  or  dripping,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  sago  or  rice,  salt  and  pepper, 
i  slice  of  toasted  bread,  i  quart  of  water. 

Method. — Wash  and  trim  the  cabbage,  cut  the  leaves  into  very  fine 
shreds,  put  them  into  sailed  boiling  water  and  cook  for  10  mil 
take  ii])  and  drain.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucvp.m.  add  the  onion 
and  livk  .previously  peeled,  eleuned  and  cut  into  thin  slices),  cook 
a  little,  then  add  the  cabbage,  and  stir  the  whole  over  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes  Ion  with  a  quart  of  water,  boil, 

skim,  and  simmer  gently  until  all   the  vegetables  are  tender  ;    season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  add  the  milk  (boiling  .  put  in  the  sago  or 
and  eook  for  another  20  minutes.     Serve  with  small  siy; 

Time. — About  T  hour.     Average  Cost,  fid.  to  8d.     Sufficient  forfi  per 
Seasonable  in   winter. 


182  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Purees. 

99.— ALMOND  SOUP.         (Fr.— Potage    d'Amandes  a 
la  Crime.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  milk,  or  half  milk  and  half  white  stock,  £  of  a 
Ib.  of  ground  almonds,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour 
or  cornflour,  i  onion,  2  strips  of  celery,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mince  the  onion  and  celery  finely,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  the  ground  almonds,  cover  with  cold  water  and  simmer  gently 
for  \  an  hour,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve  :  rub  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 
through  at  the  same  time.  In  the  meantime  make  the  milk  hot  in  the 
saucepan,  add  to  it  the  puree  of  almonds,  onion,  celery,  and  egg,  and 
boil  up.  Knead  the  butter  and  flour  together,  put  these  into  the  soup 
and  stir  until  smoothly  mixed  with  it,  cut  the  whites  of  the  eggs  into 
dice,  add  them  with  the  necessary  seasoning  to  the  soup,  and  serve. 

Time. — i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Seasonable  at  any 
time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

ALMOND  (Fr. :  Amande).— This  tree  is  indigenous  to  the  northern  parts  of  Asia  and  Africa,  but  it 
is  also  cultivated  in  Europe,  especially  in  the  south  of  France,  Spain,  and  Italy.  It  grows  to  about 
twenty  feet  in  height,  and  is  allied  to  the  peach,  natural  order  Rosaceae.  Its  flowers,  of  a  beautiful  pink, 
appear  before  the  leaves  are  produced  ;  these  are  oval  shaped,  with  serrated  edges.  The  fruit  is  ovoid 
in  form,  and  covered  with  down,  encasing  the  almond  in  a  wrinkled  shell.  There  are  two  varieties  of 
the  almond- tree,  one  sweet  and  the  other  bitter.  The  chief  kinds  of  sweet  almonds  are  the  Jordan 
or  Syrian,  which  comes  from  Malaga,  the  Valencian,  and  the  Italian.  Bitter  almonds  are  imported 
from  Mogador,  and  in  addition  to  a  fixed  oil,  consisting  chiefly  of  olein,  which  is  common  to  both 
varieties,  bitter  almonds  contain  a  substance  called  emulsin  and  a  bitter  crystallizable  body  named 
amygdalin  ;  the  latter  by  its  action  on  the  former  produces  by  distillation  the  essential  oil  of  almonds, 
the  principal  constituents  of  which  are  prussic  acid,  benzoic  acid,  and  hydride  of  benzoyl.  The  essential 
oil  is  used  for  perfuming  soap,  for  flavouring  confectionery,  and  in  cookery  ;  but  great  care  is  necessary 
in  its  use  owing  to  the  presence,  as  mentioned  above,  of  the  highly  poisonous  substance  prussic  acid. 

loo.— APPLE  SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  second  stock,  2  Ib.  of  cooking  apples,  3 
cloves,  J  of  an  inch  of  root  ginger,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Peel,  quarter,  and  core  the  apples,  cut  them  into  thick 
slices,  and  add  them  with  the  cloves  and  ginger  to  the  boiling  stock. 
Simmer  gently  until  tender,  then  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Re-heat,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  stock. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

APPLE  (Fr. :  Pomme). — The  apple  is  the  most  widely  distributed  of  all  the  fruit-trees,  and  belongs 
to  the  temperate  regions,  where  it  flourishes  best ;  it  also  grows  in  India,  Persia,  Arabia,  Australia 
and  New  Zealand.  The  original  of  all  the  varieties  of  the  cultivated  appVe  is  the  wild  crab-tree  (Pyrus 
mains),  the  fruit  of  which  is  small  and  very  sour.  The  apple-tree  is  of  moderate  height,  with  oval 
leaves  and  pinkish  white  flowers.  There  are  numerous  varieties  of  the  cultivated  apple,  and  new 
ones  are  continually  being  added  by  cultivators.  The  various  kinds  are  maintained  and  propagated 
by  grafts,  cuttings  and  budding.  The  wood  of  the  apple-tree  is  hard  and  close-grained,  and  is  used 
for  cabinet  work  and  turnery.  The  apple  is  of  great  antiquity,  and  was  brought  from  the  East  by 
the  Romans,  who  esteemed  it  highly,  and  by  them  was  probably  introduced  into  Britain.  Large 
quantities  of  apples  are  imported  into  Great  Britain  from  the  Continent,  the  United  States,  Canada 
and  Australia.  From  the  fermented  juice  of  the  apple  cider  is  produced.  Apples  dried  in  ovens  are 
termed  "  biffins."  The  apple  contains  a  large  percentage  of  water,  and  also  malic  acid,  which  i$ 
used  for  medicinal  purposes. 


RECIPES    FOR    PUREES  183 

ioi.— ARTICHOKE  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Puree  a  la  Pales- 
tine.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  second  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk, 
2  Ib.  of  Jerusalem  artichokes,  2  onions,  i  strip  of  celery,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Wash  the  artichokes,  put  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  into 
a  basin  of  water  and  keep  the  artichokes  in  it  as  much  as  possible  while 
paring  them,  to  preserve  their  whiteness.  Cut  the  onions,  celery,  and 
artichokes  into  slices,  make  the  butter  hot  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the 
vegetables  for  10  or  15  minutes  without  browning;  then  pour  in  the 
stock  and  boil  until  tender.  Rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  return  to  the 
saucepan,  add  the  milk  and  seasoning,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  £  hours.  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  without  the  stock.  Season- 
able from  October  to  February.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

. — When  a  thicker  soup  is  desired  a  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour  or  flour 
should  be  blended  with  a  little  milk  or  stock,  and  added  to  the  soup  a  few 
minutes  before  serving. 

BREAD  (Fr. :  Pain). — The  use  of  bread  is  of  the  greatest  antiquity,  and  is  common  to  the  most  primi- 
tive races.     The  earliest  kind  consisted  of  raw  grain  softened  with  water,  pressed  together,  and  tlu-'i 
baked.     Cakes  and  similar  forms  of  this  unfermented  bread  made  with  bruised  grain  are  si 
in  the  rural  districts  of  northern  Europe,  and  in  other  parts  of  the  world.     All  the  cereal  tr 
millet,  rice,  maize,  rye,  barley  and  oats  are  utilized  more  or  less  by  the  inhabitant  of  tin-  coontrie* 
where  these  are  cultivated,  but  wheat  is  the  most  suited  for  the  purpose  of  making  th- 
of  bread.     \\Ticaten  flour  contains  in  slightly  varying  proportions,  according  to  the  kind  of  wheat 
from  which  it  is  manufactured,  starch,  gluten — a  crey.  visrid,  elastic,  nitrogenous  s< 
sisting  chiefly  of  vegetable  fibrine — sugar,  gum,  mineral  matter  and  water.     Thr  v 
bread  are  of  two  classes,  unfermented  or  unleavened,  as  biscuits.  Scotch  bannocks,  tv 
of  the  United  States,  Australian  "  dampers  "  ;  and  fermented  or  leavened  bread  of  the  ordinar , 
hold,  and  f.iucy  varieties.     Fermentation  is  usually  produced  by  means  of  leaven  or  yeast,  •*  I  v 
baking  powders.     Aerated  bread  is  made  with  aerated  water,  which  is  strongly  imrreen.i- 

acid  under  pressure.  By  law,  all  bread  except  fancy  bread  and  rolls,  must  be  sold  by 
weight. 


102.— BREAD  SOUP.     (Fr.— Soupe  au  Pain.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  stock,  broth,  or  pot-liquor,  i  Ib.  of  bread- 
crusts,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Break  the  bread  into  small  pieces,  and  place  them  in  a 
basin.  Boil  up  the  stock,  pour  sufficient  over  the  bread  to  cover  it, 
let  it  remain  closely  covered  until  the  bread  is  quite  soft,  then  beat 
out  the  lumps  with  a  fork.  Add  the  bread  thus  prepared  to  the  re- 
mainder of  the  stock,  boil  up,  simmer  gently  for  10  or  15  minutes, 
then  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time.— About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  when  made  of  second 
stock.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


184  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

103.— BROAD  BEAN  SOUP.      (Fr.—  Puree  de  Feves.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  second  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  beans  shelled, 
2  ozs.  of  lean  bacon  or  ham  (this  may  be  omitted  when  using  stock), 
i  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  a  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt,  pepper,  sugar. 

Method. — Boil  the  beans  in  salted  water  for  10  or  15  minutes,  then 
drain  and  remove  the  skins.  Melt  the  butter  in  the  stewpan,  add  the 
bacon  in  small  pieces,  the  onion,  and  parsley,  and  fry  for  about  5  minutes, 
then  put  in  the  stock,  and  when  boiling  add  the  beans.  Simmer  gently 
until  the  beans  are  tender  (20  to  30  minutes  unless  very  old),  then  rub 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  to  the  stewpan,  and  when  boiling,  add  the 
flour,  previously  blended  with  a  little  stock  or  water,  and  stir  until  it  is 
mixed  smoothly  with  the  stock.  Season  to  taste,  add  a  good  pinch  of 
sugar,  and  serve.  Croutons,  or  small  slices  of  fried  or  toasted  bread, 
should  be  handed  separately. 

Time. — From  40  to  60  minutes.  Cost,  about  6d.  Seasonable  from 
June  to  August.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

104.  -BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  SOUP.       (Fr.— Puree  de 
Choux  de  Bruxelles.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  Brussels  sprouts,  3  pints  of  good  stock,  i  gill 
of  cream,  a  small  piece  of  soda,  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg. 

Method. — Wash  and  trim  the  sprouts,  cook  them  in  salted  water 
containing  a  very  small  piece  of  soda  (to  preserve  the  colour)  till 
tender.  Drain  well  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Put  the  puree  in  a  stew- 
pan with  the  stock,  boil,  and  let  it  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  skimming 
meanwhile.  Season  to  taste,  add  the  cream,  keep  hot  until  wanted 
for  table,  but  on  no  account  let  the  soup  boil  after  the  cream  is  added. 

Time. — £  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  od.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  February. 

105.— CARROT  AND  LENTIL  SOUP.         (Fr.— Crecy 
aux  Lentilles.) 

Ingredients. — 3  quarts  of  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  lentils,  4  carrots 
sliced,  2  onions  sliced,  i  good  lettuce  shredded,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cooked  rice,  2  ozs.  of  butter  or  fat,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Let  the  lentils  soak  all  night,  then  wash  and  drain  them 
well.  Heat  the  butter  or  fat  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  vegetables, 


RECIPES    FOR    PUREES  185 

and  let  them  fry  slowly  for  15  minutes.  Now  add  the  lentils  and  stock 
or  water,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  closely,  and  simmer  gently 
from  4-  hour  to  i  hour,  or  until  the  lentils  are  tender.  Pass  the  whole 
through  a  sieve,  return  to  the  saucepan,  make  thoroughly  hot,  then  add 
the  cooked  rice,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  iMo  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  Sd.,  when  made  of  water. 
Sufficient  for  i o  persons.     Seasonable  in  winter. 


1 06.— CARROT   SOUP.         (Fr.— Puree    a   la   Crecy.) 
(Economical.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  second  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk,  3 
carrots,  -J-  a  turnip,  i  onion,  2  strips  of  celery,  i  oz.  of  butter  or  dripping, 
i  tablcspoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  the  vegetables,  cut  them  into  small  pieces,  and 
fry  without  browning  for  about  15  minutes  in  the  hot  fat.  Add  the 
stock  and  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  tender  (not  less  than  40 
minutes,  and  longer  if  the  vegetables  are  old),  then  rub  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Return  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  and 
bring  to  the  boil.  Mix  the  flour  with  a  little  milk  or  water,  pour  it 
into  the  soup,  stir  and  cook  for  10  minutes,  and  se:  utons 

or  small  pieces  of  fried  or  toasted  bread  should  '1  separably. 

Time. — i  to  U  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  o<l.  \\ithout  stock.  Season- 
able at  any  lime.  Sufficient  tor  n  persons. 


107.— CARROT   SOUP   WITH    RICE.         (Fr.— Puree 
Crecy  au  Riz.) 

Ingredients. — ->  pints  of  win  ;    pint   of   milk,  5  large 

canots,   i  onion,  i  strip  of  celery,  i  h'«'k  -,  th«'  while  pari  mil-. 
of    butter,    i    tabl. -spoonful   of   corntlour.  pomifuls   of   .  ; 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  omki-d  rice,  s.tlt,  prpprr,  Mi'.;ar,  nut 

Method. — Use  only  the  outer  n-d  part  of  the  earn. is.  Cut  ;tll  the 
Mrs  into  small  pines,  and  cook  them  for  10  or  15  ininutrs  in 
hot  butter  without  browning.  Add  the  stock  and  simmer  until  the 
vegetables  are  tender  (about  40  minutes),  then  rub  them  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Return  to  the  stcwpan,  add  the  milk,  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
little  nutmeg,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Mix  the  cornflour  with  a  small 
quantity  of  stock  or  milk,  pour  it  into  the  soup  and  stir  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  a  good  pinch  of  sug.ir,  the  cream,  and  the  rice  v\vhich 
!><•  UK  ely  *  ook<  »1,  and  dry  ,  an 


i86  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — 1£  to  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  about  9d.  or  lod.  without  the 
stock.     Seasonable  at  any  time.     Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


1 08.— CAULIFLOWER  SOUP.     (Fr—  Creme  de  Chou- 
fleur.) 

Ingredients. — 2  small  cauliflowers,  i  oz.  of  ground  rice  (creme  de  riz), 
i  gill  of  cream,  i£  pints  of  white  stock,  2  ozs.  of  crushed  tapioca,  ^  an 
oz.  of  castor  sugar,  nutmeg,  i  pint  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  trim  the  cauliflowers,  cook  them  in  salted  water 
till  tender,  drain  (keep  the  water),  and  rub  the  flower  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Bring  the  water  in  which  the  cauliflower  has  been  cooked  to  the 
boil,  stir  in  the  crushed  tapioca,  and  simmer  for  20  minutes.  Mix  the 
creme  de  riz,  or  ground  rice,  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil  up  the  re- 
mainder of  the  milk  with  the  stock,  stir  in  the  ground  rice,  and  cook, 
for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  all  the  while  ;  add  the  cauliflower  water, 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg  to  taste,  bring  it  to  the 
boil,  put  in  the  cream  and  stir  a  little  longer,  but  do  not  let  it  boil 
again.  The  puree  is  now  ready  for  serving. 

Time. — One  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

109.— CELERY  CREAM  WITH  CROUTONS. 

(Fr. — Creme  de  C61eri  aux  Croutons.) 

Ingredients. — 3  heads  of  celery,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  3  ozs.  of  flour,  2 
quarts  of  first  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  •£  a  pint  of  cream,  salt,  pepper  and 
nutmeg,  %  a  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Method. — Trim  the  celery,  pare  off  the  green  parts  and  wash  thor- 
oughly, cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and  blanch  in  slightly  salted  water. 
Drain  well,  and  return  to  the  stewpan  with  3  ozs.  of  butter.  Cook  for 
a  few  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire  without  allowing  the  ingredients  to 
brown  ;  moisten  with  a  little  stock,  add  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg  to 
taste,  cover,  and  simmer  slowly  for  30  minutes.  Mix  the  flour  with 
the  remainder  of  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  and  cook  a  little  with- 
out browning.  Dilute  with  the  milk,  add  the  stock  and  partly 
cooked  celery.  Let  it  simmer  until  the  celery  is  tender,  then  pass  the 
whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Boil  again,  skim,  add  the  sugar  and 
more  seasoning  if  needed,  and  lastly  the  cream.  Re-heat  the  com- 
pound, without  allowing  it  to  boil  and  pour  into  a  soup  tureen.  Serve 
the  bread  croutons  separately. 

Time. — About  i|-  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  Seasonable  from  Septem- 
ber to  February.  Sufficient  for  8  to  10  persons. 


RECIPES    FOR    PUREES  187 

no.— CELERY    SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree    de    Celeri.) 
(Good.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  I  large  or  2  small 
heads  of  celery  (the  white  part  only),  2  small  onions,  a  bouquet-garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  rice, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  rice  well,  slice  the  celery  and  onions.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  fry  the  vegetables  in  it  for  10  minutes  without 
their  changing  colour.  Put  in  the  stock,  bouquet-garni,  rice,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  simmer  gently  until  tender,  then  strain.  Rub  the  rice 
and  vegetables  through  a  hair  sieve,  return  the  soup  and  puree  to  the 
stewpan,  add  the  milk  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Season  to  taste,  stir  in 
the  cream,  and  serve. 

Time. — i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost. — is.  9d.  Seasonable  from  Sep- 
tember to  February.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

CELERY  (Fr.  :  C fieri)  is  native  to  Britain,  and  in  its  wild  state  grows  by  the  side  of  ditches  and 
brooks,  and  along  the  seashore  and  in  saline  situations  in  England  and  Ireland.     In  this  tt 
called  smallage,  and  is  to  some  extent  a  dangerous  narcotic.     Celery  has  long  been  cultivated  .1 
and  culinary  vegetable.     Its  thick  leaf  stalks,  which  have  been  brought  to  the  fine  flavour  which 
renders  this  plant  so  agreeable  an  adjunct  to  the  table,  are  blanched  by  piling  soil  over  the  stalks 
during  their  growth  and  thus  excluding  the  light.     Celery  acts  as  a  diuretic. 


in.— CELERY  SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Celeri.)    (Eco- 
nomical.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  water,  i  pint  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  lean  bacon  or 
ham,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i£  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  i  large  head  of  c- 
2  onions,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  ham  into  dice  or  cubes,  slice  the  onion  and  cclnv. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  vegetables  without  browning, 
put  in  the  bacon,  salt,  pepper  and  water,  and  simmer  for  30  to  40 
minutes,  or  until  the  celery  is  tender.  Strain,  rub  through  a  fine  sieve, 
return  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  milk  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Mix  the 
flour  with  a  little  milk,  stir  and  cook  for  5  or  6  minutes,  then  season  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  Seasonable  from  Sep- 
tember to  February.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


112.— CHANTILLY  SOUP.       (Fr.— Potage  Chantilly.) 

Ingredients. — 2   quarts  of  second  stock,   i   quart  of  shelled  peas,  a 
handful  of  spinach,  2  or  -  of  parsley,  a  sprig  of  mint,  i  small 

onion  sliced,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 


i88         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Place  a,  few  peas  aside  to  be  used  as  garnish,  put  the  re- 
mainder into  the  boiling  stock,  add  the  spinach,  parsley,  mint  and 
onion,  and  boil  gently  until  the  peas  are  tender.  Rub  the  whole 
through  a  wire  sieve,  re-heat,  season  to  taste,  add  the  cream  and  the 
whole  peas,  which  must  have  been  previousy  cooked,  make  thoroughly 
hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  £  to  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  to  is.  3d.,  exclusive 
of  the  stock.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  in  summer. 

113,— CHESTNUT  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Puree  de  Marrons.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  i|  pints  of  chest- 
nuts, i  oz.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  oi 
cream,  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  tops  of  the  chestnuts  and  roast  or  bake  them  for 
20  minutes,  then  take  off  the  outer  and  inner  skins.  Put  the  stock, 
chestnuts,  salt  and  pepper  into  a  stewpan  and  simmer  until  tender 
(about  45  minutes),  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  to  the  stew- 
pan,  add  the  milk,  and  boil  up.  Knead  the  butter  and  flour  together, 
add  the  mixture  to  the  soup,  and  stir  until  it  becomes  smoothly  mingled 
with  it.  Season  to  taste,  add  the  cream  and  a  good  pinch  of  sugar,  and 
serve. 

Time. — r|  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  Seasonable  from 
November  to  January.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

THE  CHESTNUT  (Fr.  :  Matron),  which  belongs  to  the  order  Cuptiliferae,  is  allied  to  the  beech.  The 
common  sweet,  or  Spanish  chestnut,  is  supposed  to  have  been  introduced  into  Sardinia  from  Sardis 
in  Asia  Minor,  of  which  it  is  probably  a  native,  and  has  long  been  naturalized  in  Europe  ;  the  Romans 
are  said  to  have  brought  it  into  Britain,  where  it  is  now  widely  distributed.  The  chestnut  attains  a 
great  size  and  age,  and  its  large  serrated  dark  leaves  form  a  pretty  object  in  parks  and  the  open  country 
As  an  article  of  food  the  chestnut  is  the  least  oily  and  most  farinaceous  of  all  the  nuts,  and  ior  this 
reason  is  the  most  digestible.  It  was  much  eaten  by  the  Romans,  and  is  still  commonly  used  as  a 
comestible,  both  raw  and  roasted,  in  France  and  Italy.  The  wood  of  the  chestnut-tree,  although 
inferior  to  the  oak,  which  it  much  resembles  in  appearance,  when  old  is  used  for  various  purposes. 
The  horse-chestnut,  the  fruit  of  which  is  similar  to  the  edible  chestnut,  is  quite  a  different  tree,  and 
has  no  connexion  with  the  genus  Castanea,  to  which  the  Spanish  chestnut  belongs. 

1 14.— COCOANUT  SOUP.(Fr.— Potage  au  Noix  de  Coco.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  second  stock,  4  ozs.  of  grated  cocoanut, 
preferably  fresh,  2  ozs.  of  rice  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  mace, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — When  desiccated  cocoanut  is  used  it  should  be  previously 
soaked  for  2  or  3  hours  in  a  little  of  the  stock.  Boil  the  stock,  add 
a  small  blade  of  mace  and  the  cocoanut,  and  simmer  gently  for  i  hour. 
Mix  the  rice  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  stock,  boil  the  remainder, 
add  the  blended  rice  flour,  and  stir  and  boil  gently  for  about  10  minutes. 
Season  to  taste,  stir  in  the  cream,  and  serve. 


RECIPES    FOR    PUREES  189 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  9*!.,  exclusive  of  the  stock. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  COCOA-NUT  at  COCO-NUT  (Fr. :  Noix  de  coco). — This  is  the  fruit  of  a  secies  of  palm,  a  native 
of  the  Indian  coasts  and  the  South  Sea  Islands,  from  whence  it  has  been  introduced  ami 
naturalized  in  most  parts  of  the  tropical  regions.     It  flourishes  best  in  the  vicinity  of  the  s«-a-sh«Te. 
The  tree  i;n>ws  frequently  to  the  height  of  50  to  100  feet.     The  trunk  is  straight  and  naked,  and  is 
about  two  feet  in  diameter,  the  feather-shaped  leaves  forming  the  top  or  crown,  from  which  the 
nuts  hang  in  clusters.     The  fruit  itself,  covered  by  a  hard  shell,  is  inclosed  in  a  librous  husk  ;    within 
the  nut  -s  a  clear  sweet  liquid.     Few  plants  possess  so  many  and  useful  properties  as  the  cocoa-nut. 
From  its  wood  the  natives  obtain  the  building  material  for  their  houses  and  canoes.     The  leave*  are 
used  for  thatching  roofs,  making  baskets  and  articles  of  clothing.    Coir  for  making  ropes,  brushes,  and 
obtained  from  the  fibre  of  the  husks.     The  hard  shells  are  polished  and  made  into  drinking 
nps,  and  various  domestic  and  other  useful  articles ;    the  hard  wood  of  the  tree,  K 
"  porcupine  wood,"  is  employed  for  a  variety  of  ornamental  purposes.     The  kernels,  dr. 
various  ways,  are  used  as  food,  and  the  expressed  oil  of  the  nut  is  exported  for  use  in  the  manufacture 
of  candles,  soap,  and  pomades  ;   the  oil  when  fresh  is  used  in  cookery.     In  southern  India  and  other 
countries  the  cocoa-nut  forms  one  of  the  staples  of  life.     From  the  white  sweetish  sap  toddy  is  made, 
and  from  it  by  distillation  2  variety  of  the  spirit  arack  is  obtained.     Vinegar  aqd&UgW  are  also  ; 
of  this  juice.     The  terminal  buds  of  the  cocoa-nut  tree  when  boiled  resemble  cabbage.     The  milk 
of  the  cocoa-nut  supplies  a  refreshing  beverage. 

115.— CORN  SOUP. 

Put  the  coin  removed  from  3  cobs  of  corn  (or  Indian  mai/e)  into 
i  pinto!  fast-boiling  water,  and  cook  for  about  i"  minutes.  DIM  in  them 
and  eoi»k  till  tender  in  2  pints  of  stock  and  :\  of  a  pint  of  mill.. 

te  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  small  piece  of  butter  just  before 
Lng, 

Time. — About  I  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  M.  to  is.  yd.  per  quart. 
Sufficient  for  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  all  times. 

1 16.— CUCUMBER    CREAM.     (Fr.— Creme    de    Con- 
combre.) 

Ingredients. —  i  lar  Mall  cucumbers,  j  lettuces,  3  ozs.  of  fresh 

butter,  i  quart  of  white  stock,  the  yolks  of  3  eggs,  i  gill  of  cream, 
i  tablespoonful  of  patent  cornflour,  salt  and  pepper,  a  handful  of  fried 
bread  croutons. 

Method.— Peel  the  cucumbers  and  cut  them  into  slices.  Trim,  v 
drain,  and  coarsely  shred  the  lettuces  ;  blanch  the  cucumber  and 
lettuces  in  salted  water  containing  a  very  small  piece  of  soda.  Strain 
off  the  water,  and  put  the  vegetables  in  a  stewjun  with  the  butter  ; 
stir  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  stock.  Mix  a  tablespoonful  of 
cornflour  with  a  little  cold  milk,  and  stir  into  the  soup.  Cook  for  about 
3<>  minutes,  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  return  to  the  stewp.m 
and  reheat.  Stir  the  yolks  of  the  eg.ns  and  the  cream  together,  pour  this 
into  tin- soup,  and  stir  over  the  lire  for  a  few  seconds  longer.  Season 
to  taste  with  popper  and  salt.  Put  the  fried  bread  croutons  in  a  soup 
tureen,  pour  the  soup  over  them,  and  send  to  table. 

Time.— About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2S.  gd.  per  quart.  Seasonable, 
May  to  September.  Sufficient  for  5  persons. 


HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

117.— CUCUMBER  CREAM,  INDIAN  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Crime  de  Concombre  a   Tlndienne.) 

Ingredients. — i  cucumber,  2  onions  (medium  size),  i  calf's  brain, 
2  quarts  of  stock,  i  teaspoonful  of  mulligatawny  paste,  £  a  gill  of  cream, 
i  oz.  of  fresh  butter,  the  yolks  of  3  eggs,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg. 

Method. — Peel  the  cucumber,  cut  it  up  into  short  pieces,  and  cook  in 
salted  water  till  tender;  peel  the  onions,  slice  them,  and  cook  them 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  cucumber.  Blanch  the  calf's  brain  and  cook 
likewise.  Drain  the  onions  and  the  brain,  and  pound  them  together 
in  a  mortar,  add  the  mulligatawny  paste  and  the  butter.  Put  this 
in  a  stewpan  with  the  stock,  add  the  cucumber,  and  boil  for  20  minutes. 
Rub  the  whole  through  a  sieve,  return  to  the  stewpan,  re-heat,  add  the 
yolks  of  eggs  and  the  cream,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  a  tiny 
pinch  of  sugar,  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Stir  long  enough  to  bind  the 
eggs,  and  serve. 

Time. —  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33.  Sufficient  for  8  persons. 
Seasonable  from  May  to  September. 


1 1 8.— CUCUMBER  SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Concom- 
bres.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  2  large  cucumbers, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  cucumbers,  cut  into  thick  slices,  quarter  them  and 
remove  the  seeds.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  put  in  the 
cucumber  and  a  little  salt,  boil  for  10  minutes,  then  drain.  Melt  i  oz. 
of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  cucumber,  cover  and  let  it  steam  in 
the  butter  for  about  £  an  hour,  then  rub  through  a  hair  sieve.  Melt 
the  remaining  oz.  of  butter  in  the  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  pour  in  the 
stock  and  milk  (hot),  and  stir  until  boiling.  Add  the  puree  of  cu- 
cumber, simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  then  let  the  soup  cool  slightly.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs  a'nd  cream  together,  pour  the  mixture  into  the  soup 
and  stir  until  it  thickens,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  boil,  or  the  eggs 
will  curdle.  Season  to  taste,  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Time. — i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Seasonable  from  May  to 
September.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

THE  CUCUMBER  (Fr. :  Concombre). — This  plant  or  fruit  belongs  to  the  order  of  the  Cucurbiiact\n  or 
gourds.  It  is  of  great  antiquity,  and  is  a  native  of  Egypt  and  Asia.  As  in  ancient  times,  in  E?ypt 
and  the  East  the  cucumber,  with  other  fruits  of  its  class,  constitute  a  large  portion  of  the  food  of  the 
people.  It  was  cultivated  in  England  in  the  fourteenth  century,  but  it  is  only  since  the  rei.un  of 
Henry  VIII.  that  the  cucumber  came  generally  into  use  as  a  table  vegetable.  It  is  much  usc«l  aa  ;i 
salad,  and  young  cucumbers,  known  as  "  gherkins,"  are  made  into  pickles.  The  cucumber  in  its  raw- 
state  is  not  very  digestible. 


RECIPES    FOR   PUREES  191 

119.— EGG  SOUP.      (Fr—  Potage  aux  CEufs.) 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  good  white  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  the 
yolks  of  4  eggs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  slightly  and  add  the  cream.  Bring 
the  stock  nearly  to  boiling-point,  add  the  liaison,  or  binding  mixture, 
of  eggs  and  cream,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  soup  thickens, 
but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  or  the  eggs  may  curdle.  Season  to  taste, 
and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried  or  toasted  bread. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  5 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time 


1 20.— GREEN  PEA  SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Pois  Verts. ) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  stock,  £  a  pint  of  water,  i  quart  of  peas 
(shelled),  a  handful  of  spinach  (to  improve  the  colour),  a  little  mint, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  peas,  spinach, 
and  mint,  put  on  the  cover  and  let  them  steam  in  the  butter  for  15 
or  20  minutes.  Add  the  stock  and  water,  and  some  of  the  pea-shells 
if  young  and  soft  (they  should  of  course  be  first  washed  in  cold  water), 
boil  quickly  until  tender,  strain  and  rub  the  vegetables  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Melt  the  remainder  of  the  butter  in  the  stewpan,  sprinkle 
in  the  flour,  add  the  stock  and  puree,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season  to 
taste,  and  serve  with  croutons  of  fried  bread.  If  preferred,  a  few  cooked 
green  peas,  and  a  little  cream  may  be  added  to  the  soup  before  serving. 

Time. — 1£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Qd.  to  2s.  od.  Seasonable 
from  June  to  September.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


I2i.— HARICOT  BEAN  SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Hari- 
cots.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of  small 
haricot  beans,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  onion,  i  strip  of  celery  or  £  a  teaspoonful 
seeds  (tied  in  muslin),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  beans,  and  soak  them  in  water  for  12  hours. 
Melt  the  butj^r  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  onion  and  celery  sliced,  fry 
for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then  put  in  the  beans,  cover 
closely,  and  let  them  steam  for  15  or  20  minutes.  Add  the  stock  or 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  simmer  until  tender  (2^  to  3  hours). 
Strain,  and  rub  the  vegetables  through  a  wire  sieve.  Return  to  the 
stewpan,  add  the  milk,  and  boil  up.  Season  to  taste,  and  serve. 


IQ2  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — 3^-  to  4  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d.  without  the  stock.     Seasonable 
at  any  time.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

Note. — Haricot-bean,  lentil  and  pea  soup  arc  often  substituted  for  meat 
by  those  catering  for  the  poor,  and  the  usual  allowance  is  i  pint  per  head. 


122.— LENTIL  SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Lentilles.) 
(Good.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  second  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint 
of  brown  lentils,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  2  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquct-garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  Hour, 
salt  and  pepper,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 

Method. — Wash  the  lentils,  soak  them  for  24  hours,  and  when  ready 
to  use,  drain  well.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stew-pan,  put  in  the  vegetables, 
sliced  herbs,  and  lentils,  cover  closely  and  let  them  steam  in  the  butter 
for  15  or  20  minutes.  Add  the  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  gently 
for  2  hours,  or  until  tender,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Return  to  the 
saucepan,  add  the  milk  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Mix  the  flour  with  a 
little  milk  or  stock,  add  it  to  the  soup,  stir  and  simmer  for  5  minutes. 
Season  to  taste,  add  the  cream,  and  serve.  Croutons  of  fried  or  toasted 
bread  should  be  handed  separately. 

Time. — 2f  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  Qd.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

THE  LENTIL  (Fr.  :  Lentillc)  belongs  to  the  natural  order  Leguminosae  or  pulses,  and  is  of  t!io  s.imc 
genus  as  the  tares.  The  lentil  is  an  annual  plant,  growing  in  height  to  about  eighteen  inches,  \\ilti 
pale  blue  or  whitish  flowers.  Its  short,  smooth  pods  contain  two  seeds  each,  and  these  form  ii 
and  Syria,  Bengal  and  other  Eastern  countries,  an  important  article  of  food.  There  are  two  cultivated 
varieties  of  the  lentil,  the  large  garden  lentil  and  the  field  lentil.  Its  nutritive  properties  are  of  a  hi^h 
order,  and  lentils  cooked  whole  or  in  the  form  of  meal  are  readily  digested.  Lentils  form  the  basis  of 
many  of  the  prepared  foods  for  invalids  owing  to  the  fact  above  mentioned.  The  constituent';  <  f 
lentils  in  100  parts  are  : — Water,  12.5  ;  proteids,  24.8  ;  fats,  1.8  ;  carbo-hydrates,  58.4  ;  salts,  2.5. 


123.— LENTIL     SOUP.        (Fr.— Puree    de    Lentilles.) 
(Economical.) 

Ingredients. — 3  quarts  of  water,  i  pint  of  lentils,  i  carrot,  i  strip  of 
celery,  i  oz.  of  dripping  or  bacon  fat,  salt  and  pepper,  i  tablcspomifn! 
of  flour. 

Method. — Wash  the  lentils  the  day  before  the  soup  is  wanted,  strain, 
and  spread  on  a  dish.  Cover  with  another  dish  and  let  them  remain 
until  ready  for  use.  Slice  the  vegetables  and  fry  them  in  the  hot  fat 
for  a  few  minutes,  as  this  improves  the  flavour  of  the  soup.  Add  the 
water,  and,  when  boiling,  put  in  the  lo'ntils  and  boil  gently  for  -2^  to 
3  hours,  or  until  the  lentils  are  tender.  If  convenient  rub  them  through 
a  wire  sieve,  if  not,  crush  them  by  pressing  them  at  the  side  of  the 


RECIPES    FOR    PUREES  193 

pan  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Mix  the  flour  with  a  little  cold  milk  or 
water,  add  it  to  the  soup,  stir  and  simmer  for  about  10  minutes,  season 
to  taste,  and  serve. 

Ham  or  bacon  bones  greatly  improve  the  flavour  of  lentil  soup  ; 
it  may  also  be  improved  by  using  less  water,  and  adding  a  correspond- 
ing quantity  of  milk  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 

Time.— 3*  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  3d.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons  when  followed  by  other  substantial  dishes. 


I24.— ONION  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Puree  aux  Oignons.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  white  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  3  Spanish  onions, 
3  potatoes,  i  strip  of  celery,  I  oz.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method.— Peel  and  slice  the  vegetables.  Make  the  butter  hot  in  a 
slewpan,  and  cook  the  vegetables  in  it  for  15  minutes,  but  VERY  SLCAVI.Y, 
and  stirring  frequently  to  prevent  them  taking  any  colour.  Add  the 
stock  and  simmer  gently  until  tender  (about  i  hour),  then  rub  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Return  to  the  stewpan,  put  in  the  milk  and  bring  to  the 
boil.  Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  pour  it  into  the  soup, 
stir  and  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  then  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1|  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  /d.  without  the  stock.  Season- 
able in  Winter.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

N  (l-"r. :  Oignon). — The  well-known  root  of  a  liliaceous  plant  of  the  genus  Alliunt,  which  fn un 
the  earliest  tmn's  IMS  been  known  and  cultivated.  By  the  ancient  Egyptians  it  w  i-  so  hmhlv  valued 
that  it  was  elevated  into  an  object  of  worship,  its  concentric  rings  being  re^ardtxi  as  the  symbol  "f 
eternity.  The  onion  is  eaten  raw,  roasted,  boiled,  pickled,  and  as  a  Savouring  f«>r  soups  and  st.  w-. 
Its  stroim  odour  and  punp-nt  taste  arc  due  to  the  presence  of  a  superfluous  volatile  oil.  There  an- 
rieties of  the  onion,  the  Spanish,  Portugal  and  Strasburg  being  the  most  esteemed.  The 
union  possesses  highly  nutritive  properties. 


125.— ONION     SOUP.        (Fr.— Puree    aux    Oignons.) 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  water,   i£  pints  of  milk,  3  Spanish  onions. 
|  a  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  i  oz.  oi  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  the  yolks  of 
>,  salt,  pepper  and  bay-leaf,  a  blade  of  mace. 

Method. — Cut  the  turnip  and  celery  into  small  pieces,  peel  the  onions, 
put  them  into  cold  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  cook  for  10  minutes,  then 
drain  and  chop  coarsely.  Put  2  pints  of  boiling  water  into  the  stcwp.m, 
add  the  onions,  celery,  turnip,  bay-leaf,  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  and 
simmer  until  tender  (about  i  hour).  Rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  return 
to  the  saucepan,  add  the  milk,  and  when  boiling  stir  in  the  flour  and 
r,  previously  kneaded  together.  Simmer  a  few  minutes  to  cook 
the  flour,  then  let  the  soup  cool  slightly.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 

H 


i94         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

with  a  little  milk,  pour  them  into  the  soup,  and  stir  until  they  thicken. 
Season,  and  serve  with  fried  or  toasted  croutons  of  bread. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.  or  Qd.     Seasonable  in  Winter 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 


126.— PARSNIP  SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Panais.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  second  stock,  i  pint  of  milk,  3  or  4  parsnips, 
i  onion,  2  strips  of  celery,  i  oz.  of  butter,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  or  i 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Slice  the  vegetables,  and  fry  them  in  the  butter,  without 
browning,  for  about  15  minutes.  Add  the  stock,  and  simmer  until  the 
parsnips  are  tender  (about  40  minutes),  then  rub  through  a  wire  sieve. 
Return  to  the  stewpan,  add  the  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  and  bring  to  the 
boil.  Mix  the  flour  with  a  little  milk  or  water,  pour  it  into  the  soup, 
stir,  and  cook  for  5  or  6  minutes.  Add  the  lemon-juice  and  serve  with 
croutons  of  fried  or  toasted  bread.  The  lemon-juice  is  added  to  correct 
the  sweetness  of  the  parsnips,  and  is  simply  a  matter  of  taste. 

Time. — 1£  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  yd.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  from  October  to  April.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

PARSNIP  (Fr. :  Panais). — This  is  a  biennial  plant  with  bright  yellow  flowers  and  a  root  resembling 
the  carrot,  which  in  saccharine  and  nutritive  matter  it  nearly  equals.  Like  the  carrot,  it  grows  wilj 
in  Britain,  but  only  the  cultivated  parsnip  is  edible.  It  is  generally  distributed  over  most  parts  of 
Europe,  and  in  Roman  Catholic  countries  forms  with  salt  fish  a  Lenten  dish.  A  beverage  is  made  from 
parsnips  in  conjunction  with  hops,  and  also  a  wine  of  agreeable  flavour.  The  parsnip  contains  in  100 
parts  : — Water,  82.5  ;  proteids,  1.3  ;  fats,  0.7  ;  carbo-hydrates,  14.5  ;  salts,  i.o. 

127.— PEA  SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree    de    Pois.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  stock  or  water  (if  water  is  used,  ham  or  beef 
bones,  either  cooked  or  uncooked  will  improve  the  soup),  i  pint  of 
dried  split  peas,  2  onions,  2  carrots,  i  small  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  dried  mint,  salt  and  pepper,  i  oz.  of  flour. 

Method. — Wash  the  peas  and  soak  them  for  12  hours  in  water.  Put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  bones  (if  any)  and  the  stock,  and  bring 
to  the  boil.  Slice  the  vegetables  and  add  them  to  the  stock  when  it 
boils,  and  simmer  for  at  least  3  hours.  Then  rub  through  a  wire  sieve, 
return  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  flour  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little 
water,  and  boil.  When  the  puree  is  thoroughly  incorporated  with 
the  soup,  season  to  taste,  and  serve.  The  dried  mint  should  be 
placed  in  the  tureen  and  the  soup  poured  on  to  it. 

Time. — 3^  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  when  made  with  water. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

Note. — When  making  pea  soup  in  large  quantities,  the  process  of  rubbing 
the  vegetables  through  the  sieve  is  omitted,  and  the  turnips,  carrots,  etc.,  are 
cut  into  small  pieces  and  added  to  the  soup  about  i  hour  before  serving. 


RECIPES    FOR    PUREES  195 

THE  PEA  (Fr. :  Po«s).— The  native  country  of  the  pea  is  unknown,  but  it  is  supposed  to  be  indigenous 
to  South-Eastern  Europe  and  Western  Asia.  It  was  well  known  to  the  Romans,  and  has  been  culti- 
vated from  remote  antiquity.  The  pea,  a  leguminous  plant  of  the  genus  Pisum,  has  many  varieties, 
including  the  garden  pea  and  the  field  pea.  When  soft  and  juicy  in  the  pods,  peas  are  used 
for  the  table  under  the  designation  of  "  green  peas."  When  hardened,  peas  become  farinaceous,  and 
a  whitish  and  a  blue  variety  which  splits  readily  when  subjected  to  the  action  of  mill-stones  specially 
constructed  for  that  purpose  is  used  largely  for  soups.  There  are  some  varieties  of  peas  which  have 
no  inner  filmy  lining  in  their  pods,  known  as  "  sugar-peas."  The  pods  of  these  when  young  are  fre- 
quently eaten  cooked  in  a  similar  manner  to  kidney-beans.  Bv  the  Hindus  peas  parched  and  ground 
and  mixed  with  flour  form  an  important  article  of  diet.  The  pea  is  rich  in  nitrogenous  matter,  contain- 
ing le^umin  or  vegetable  casein,  and  is  therefore  useful  as  a  flesh-forming  food.  The  following  urc  the 
constituents  of  peas  in  too  parts  :— Water,  15.6  ;  proteids,  22.0  ;  fats,  2.0  ;  carbo-hydrates,  58.0, 
salts,  2.4. 


128.-  -POTATO    SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree    de   Pommes    de 
Terre.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  white  second  stock,  or  water,  £  a  pint  of  milk, 
i  Ib.  of  potatoes,  i  onion,  i  strip  of  celery,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful 
of  fine  sago,  or  crushed  tapioca,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Slice  the  potatoes,  onion,  and  celery.  Make  the  butter 
hot  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  vegetables,  fry  and  cook  until  the  butter  is 
absorbed,  stirring  freqently  to  prevent  them  browning.  Add  the 
stock,  and  simmer  until  the  vegetables  are  tender  (about  i  hour). 
Rub  through  a  fine  sieve  ;  return  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  milk  and 
bring  to  the  boil.  Sprinkle  in  the  sago,  cook  until  transparent,  add 
seasoning  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  Qd.  to  is.  Seasonable  at  any 
time.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

THE  POTATO  (Fr.  :  Pomme  dt  terre). — Next  to  the  cereals,  the  potato  constitutes  one  of  the  most 
important  articles  of  vegetable  food.  It  belongs  to  the  natural  order  Solanacetr.  which  includes  the 
nightshade,  henbane,  and  tobacco,  and  is  a  native  of  the  region  of  the  Andes  of  South  Amcru  a.  wln-n- 
it  grows  wild  ;  but  in  the  uncultivated  state  its  tubers  are  watery  and  tasteless.  It  was  first  intro- 
duced into  Europe  in  the  early  part  of  the  sixteenth  century  by  the  Spaniards,  and  in  England  by  the 
Elizabethan  adventurers,  Sir  John  Hawkins,  Sir  Francis  Drake,  and  Sir  Walter  RaK-i^h.  It  u.i^ 
grown  on  the  estate  of  the  last-named  at  Youghal,  near  Cork,  and  eaten  as  a  food  prior  to  its  use  in 
England.  The  potato  is  rich  in  starch,  of  which  it  contains  about  15  per  cent.,  and  combined  with 
flour  makes  excellent  farinaceous  foods.  A  strong  coarse  spirit,  "  ItritNh  brandy,"  is  ob- 
tained from  the  potato  by  distillation.  The  skin  of  the  potato  contains  "  Solanine."  a  poisonous 
substance,  which  is  dissipated  by  boiling  or  steaming.  Not  being  rich  in  flesh-forming  con^t 


the  potato  is  best  used  as  an  adjunct  to  meat  or  nitrogenous  foods.   The  potato  contains  in  too  ; 
Water,  74.0  :  proteids,  2.0  ;   fa 


fats,  0.20  ;   carbo-hydrates.  21.8  ;   salts,  i.o. 


129.— PUREE   OF  ASPARAGUS.      (Fr.— Puree   d'As- 
perges.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  second  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk, 
50  heads  of  asparagus,  i  Spanish  onion,  i  strip  of  celery,  a  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  cornflour  or  flour,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  2  tablcspoonfuls  of  cream, 
pepper  and  salt. 


196         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Cut  off  the  heads  of  the  asparagus  and  put  them  aside, 
trim  the  stalks,  cut  them  and  the  onion  and  celery  into  small  pieces. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan  and  fry  asparagus,  celery  and  onion  for 
15  minutes,  but  slowly,  so  as  not  to  brown  them  at  all.  Sprinkle  in  the 
cornflour  or  flour,  let  it  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  stock, 
milk,  bouquet-garni,  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  slowly  for  about  40 
minutes.  Pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  return  the  soup  to  the 
stewpan,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Have  ready  a  small  saucepan 
of  boiling  water,  put  in  a  little  salt  and  the  asparagus  points, 
and  cook  for  10  or  15  minutes.  Let  the  soup  cool  slightly,  beat 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  cream  together,  pour  them  into  the 
soup  and  stir  until  it  thickens,  taking  care  that  the  mixture  does  not 
boil,  or  the  eggs  will  curdle.  Put  the  asparagus  points  in  the  tureen, 
and  pour  in  the  soup. 

Time. — 1£  to  i^  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  gd.  to  33.  6d.,  exclusive  of 
stock.  Seasonable  from  March  to  July,  but  in  full  season  in  May, 
June  and  July.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

ASPARAGUS  (Fr.  :  Asperge). — A  favourite  culinary  vegetable  belonging  to  a  genus  of  plants  of  the 
order  Liliaceae.  It  is  indigenous  to  Britain,  and  grows  extensively  in  the  southern  steppes  of  Russia, 
in  Poland,  and  in  Greece,  and  was  used  as  a  vegetable  by  the  Romans.  The  asparagus  is  raised  from 
seed,  and  the  young  shoots  of  the  plant  only  are  used  for  the  table.  It  possesses  valuable  diuretic 
properties. 


130.— PUREE  OF  ASPARAGUS.      (Fr.— Puree  d'As- 
perges.)     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  second  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk, 
50  heads  of  asparagus,  i  Ib.  of  spinach,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  points  of  the  asparagus  and  put  them  aside, 
trim  the  stalks  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces  ;  wash  and  pick  the 
spinach.  Put  the  stock  or  water  into  a  stewpan,  and  when  it  boils  add 
the  asparagus  and  spinach^  and  cook  until  tender  (about  40  minutes), 
then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Have  ready  a  small  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  put  in  a  little  salt  and  the  asparagus  points,  and  cook  for  10  or 
15  minutes.  Melt  the  butter  in  the  stewpan,  sprinkle  in  the  flour, 
add  the  milk  and  stir  until  it  boils,  then  put  in  the  stock  and  puree  of 
asparagus  and  spinach,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  simmer  gently 
for  10  minutes.  Place  the  asparagus  points  into  the  tureen,  add  the 
cream  and  necessary  seasoning  to  the  soup,  and  serve. 

Time. — T  to  i$  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33.,  exclusive  of  stock. 

Seasonable  from  March  to  July.     Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


RKCIPES    FOR    Pl'RKKS 
131.—  SORREL  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Creme  d'Oseille.^ 

Ingredients.  —  £  of  a  Ib.  of  sorrel,  picked  and  washed,  i  small  0*1 
lettuce,  3  or  4  sprigs  of  tarragon,  a  few  sprigs  of  chervil,  i  oz.  ot  biitu-r. 
:its  of  white  stock,  i  gill  of  cream,   |  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce 
(see  Sauces),  yolks  of  3  eggs. 

Method.  —  Wash  the  sorrel  and  the  lettuce,  cut  both  up  small,  and 
put  in  a  stewpan  with  the  butter.     Cook  whilst  stirring  for  about  5 
minutes,  then  add  the  stock.     Let  the  whole  simmer  gently  for  about 
I  an  hour,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.     Return  the  puree  to  a 
stewpan  with  the  Bechamel  sauce,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  prppn 
and  a  grate  of  nutmeg,  re-heat,  add  the  tarragon  and  chervil  t  1 
and  cut  into  shreds,  and  cook  for  a   few  minutes  longer.     Add  the 
n-iMin  and  the  egg-yolks,  previously  beaten  with  a  whisk,  stir  over  the 
tin-  lOr  a  few  moments  to  cook  the  eggs,  then  s< 

Average  Cost.  —  2s.     Sufficient  for  4  persons.     Seasonable  in  spring  and 
summer. 


132.—  SPINACH  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Puree  d'Epinards.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  pint  of  white  second  stock,   i    pint  of  milk,  a 
spinach,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method.     Wash  the  spinach,  remove  the  stalks,  and  put   it   into  a 
;>an   with  just   sufficient   water   to  rover   the   ; 
vent    it    burning.      When     tender,    drain    and    rub    thro  , 
M<  It    the  butter  in  a  st.upan,  sprinkle  in  the  flour. 

then  add  the  puree  of  spiiurh  and  tl;-  •.  little 

time.      Boil,  add    the    milk,    sunnier    a    few    mini;  -n    to 

ve. 

Time.     About   r   hour.     Average  Cost,  od.  to  is.  without    the  stock. 
Seasonable  from  Sufficient  for  .; 

133-—  SPRING      SOUP.        (Fr.     Puree    Printaniere 
Maigre.) 

lients.—  i    pint    of  i.oilin-  ,,s>  2 

i    turnip,  -ood  l.-tture.  i  bunch 

•.It  and  pepper.        The  volks  of  2 
nid  2  tablespoonfi  .in  improve  the  soup.) 

Method.     Cut  a  t.ibl.  -spoonful  cv  ;  rot    and    turnip   into  small 

•i"d  the  •  !so  cut    up   th« 

•he  lettr  tf  some  of  tho  stalks  of 

'    the  bul  put  in  all  lhr\- 

'   and  turnip,  .  1  let   them  Itean  in  t  ho 


198  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

butter  for  15  or  20  minutes,  stirring  occasionally.  Add  the  boiling 
water,  and  cook  gently  for  i  hour,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Have 
the  milk  boiling  in  the  stewpan,  put  in  the  puree,  with  any  liquor  re- 
maining with  it,  and  boil.  Meanwhile  cook  the  dice  of  turnip  and  car- 
rot separately  in  a  little  salt  and  water  (allowing  25  minutes  for  the 
carrot,  and  1 5  minutes  for  the  turnip),  and  strain.  Mix  the  flour  smoothly 
with  a  little  milk,  add  it  to  the  soup,  stir  and  cook  for  at  least  5  minutes. 
Add  the  dice  of  carrot  and  turnip,  cream  and  eggs  if  used,  then  season  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — if  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  about  is.  without  cream  and 
eggs.     Seasonable  in  Spring.     Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


134.— TRUFFLE  SOUP.    (Fr—  Crime  aux  Truffes.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  rich,  white  stock,  i  pint  consomme,  i  glass 
sherry  or  Marsala,  £  Ib.  fresh  truffles,  3  button  onions,  i  carrot,  bou- 
quet garni,  i£  oz.  butter,  i  oz.  flour,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  2  yolks, 
£  gill  cream. 

Method. — Wash  and  brush  the  truffles,  and  cut  them  into  slices  ; 
put  them  in  a  basin,  pour  over  a  glass  of  sherry  or  Marsala  wine, 
and  cover.  Peel  and  chop  the  button  onions,  fry  them  a  golden 
brown  in  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  then  add  the  truffles,  and 
moisten  with  a  quart  of  rich  veal  stock.  Bring  it  to  the  boil,  whilst 
stirring,  add  a  small  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay -leaf),  and  i 
sliced  carrot,  and  cook  slowly  for  30  minutes.  Strain  the  soup,  pound 
the  truffles  in  a  mortar,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  truffle 
puree  in  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  of  consomme,  boil  for  10  minutes  ; 
add  the  strained  soup,  and  when  boiling  incorporate  the  egg-yolks 
mixed  with  the  cream.  Season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  grate 
of  nutmeg.  The  soup  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Time. — 40  minutes  to  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  93.  Sufficient  for  6  per- 
sons. Seasonable  in  winter. 


135.— TURNIP   SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree   de   Navets.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  second  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk, 
4  large  turnips,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper  and 
sugar. 

Method. — Peel  the  turnips  and  cut  them  into  thin  slices.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  turnips  and  let  them  cook  very  gently  for 
15  or  20  minutes,  then  put  in  the  stock  and  simmer  for  40  minutes  or 
until  the  turnips  are  tender.  Rub  through  a  hair  sieve,  return  to  the 
saucepan,  add  the  milk  and  boil  up.  Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a 


RECIPES    FOR    PUREES  199 

little  stock  or  milk,  pour  into  the  soup,  stir  and  cook  for  5  or  6  minutes, 
then  add  a  good  pinch  of  sugar,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
serve. 

Time. — 1£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost.  8d.  to  9d.  without  stock. 
Seasonable  in  Winter.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

THE  TURNIP  (Fr.  :  Navel';.— The  Greeks  and  Romans  cultivated  the  turnip  for  table  use  and  for 
feeding  cattle.  Nothing  is  known  of  its  introduction  into  England,  but  two  varieties,  one  annual 
the  other  biennial,  of  the  wild  turnip  are  found  in  Britain.  In  the  reign  of  Elizabeth  boiled  turnips 
was  a  favourite  dish.  The  turnip  is  much  esteemed  as  a  culinary  vegetable  ;  its  nutritive  properties 
however,  are  small,  as  water  constitutes  about  91  parts  in  too.  The  leaves  and  flower  shoots  of  the 
turnip  are  often  used  as  greens,  and  are  called  turnip  tops. 

I36._VEGETABLE  SOUP,   GREEN.     (Fr.— Puree  de 

Legumes  Verts.) 
Ingredients. — 2|  pints  of  stock  or  water,  %  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk, 

1  Ib.  of  spinach,  £  of  a  pint  of  shelled  peas,  i  onion  (sliced),  a  little  green 
mint,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  the  yolks  of  2  eggs, 

2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  rice-flour  or  ground-rice,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  pick  the  spinach,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
little  salt,  adding  a  small  piece  of  soda,  if  hard  water  is  used  ;  cover  with 
cold  waier,  bring  to  the  boil,  strain,  and  press  as  dry  as  possible.  Melt 
the  butter,  put  in  the  spinach,  %  &  Pmt  of  the  peas,  the  onion,  mint, 
herbs,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  put  on  the  cover,  and  let  the  vege- 
table steam  in  the  butter  for  at  least  15  minutes,  stirring  frequently. 
Sprinkle  in  the  rice-flour,  mix  it  well  with  the  vegetables,  and  then  add 
the  stock  or  water.  Simmer  for  35  or  40  minutes,  rub  through  a  fine 
hair  sieve,  and  return  to  the  saucepan.  Bring  to  the  boil,  simmer  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  let  the  soup  cool  slightly.  Have  the  rest  of  the  peas 
ready  cooked,  and  add  them  to  the  soup.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  with 
the  cream  (or  milk),  add  it  to  the  soup,  and  stir  until  it  thickens, 
without  boiling.  Season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  to  2S.  with  cream,  not 
including  the  stock.  Seasonable  July  to  September,  with  tinned  peas 
at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

137.— VEGETABLE    MARROW    SOUP.     (Fr.— Puree 
de  Courge.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  white  second  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk, 
i  large  vegetable  marrow,  i  onion,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Mince  the  onion  finely,  cut  the  vegetable  marrow  into  small 
pieces  and  remove  the  seeds.  Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put 
in  the  vegetables,  put  on  the  lid,  and  let  the  ingredients  steam  in  the 
butter  for  15  or  20  minutes.  Add  the  milk  and  water,  and  cook  gently 
for  about  40  minutes,  or  until  tender,  then  rub  through  a  hair  sieve. 


200  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Melt  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter,  stir  in  the  flour  smoothly,  add  the  soup, 
and  stir  until  it  boils.     Simmer  for  5  minutes,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  without  the  stock. 
Seasonable  from  August  to  October.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

VEGETABLE  MARROW  (Fr.  :  Ctwrge). — This  is  a  species  of  gourd,  belonging  to  the  natural  order 
Cucurbitaceae,  which  includes  the  gourds,  melons,  cucumbers,  marrows,  etc.  It  is  cultivated  as  a 
culinary  vegetable.  The  vegetable  marrow  contains  a  large  percentage  of  water,  it  is  not  therefore 
very  nutritious,  but  forms  a  useful  adjunct  to  flesh  foods. 

Fish   Soups. 

138.— BOUILLABAISSE.     (A  kind  of  Fish  Stew.) 

Ingredients. — i  red  mullet,  i  sole,  i  whiting,  I  small  eel,  i  small  lobster, 
6  mussels,  i  quart  of  fish  stock,  \  of  a  pint  of  salad  oil,  £  a  gill  (|  of  a 
pint)  of  claret,  3  small  tomatoes,  2  small  onions,  i  oz.  of  butter,  a 
bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  a  clove  of  garlic,  2  cloves, 
a  pinch  of  spinach,  saffron,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper,  a  croute  of  bread, 
parsley. 

Method. — Slice  the  onions  and  fry  them  brown  in  the  oil.  Mix  the 
saffron  with  a  little  water  ;  mince  the  garlic  finely  ;  steam  the  mussels 
and  remove  them  from  the  shells  ;  skin  and  fillet  the  sole,  wash  and 
cut  the  other  fish  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving.  Pour  away  a 
little  of  the  oil,  add  the  Stock,  claret,  herbs,  garlic,  cloves,  bouquet- 
garni,  saffron,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper,  and  bring  nearly  to  boiling 
point  ;  then  put  in  all  the  fish  and  cook  slowly  for  20  minutes.  Mean- 
while trim  the  croute  of  bread  to  the  size  of  the  dish,  fry  golden- 
brown  in  hot  oil  or  fat,  then  fix  it  firmly  in  the  centre  of  a  deep  dish 
by  means  of  white  of  egg.  Cut  the  tomatoes  ACROSS  in  halves,  squeeze 
out  a  little  of  the  juice,  and  fry  them  slightly  in  hot  butter.  Arrange 
the  pieces  of  fish  on  and  around  the  croute,  garnish  with  the  tomatoes 
and  parsley,  and  serve  very  hot  with  some  of  the  liquor,  well  skimmed 
and  strained,  poured  round  it. 

Time. — Altogether,  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  45.  to  53.  Seasonable 
at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  10  or  12  persons. 

Note. — Bouillabaisse  can  be  made  of  fresh-water  fish,  but  is  not  so  deliHmi-. 
as  when  made  with  sea-fish.  It  is  of  southern  origin,  and  ought  to  be  a  highly 
seasoned  dish.  This  soup  is  well-known  to  all  readers  of  Thackeray  by  n-;i  <n 
of  his  ballad  in  which,  when  visiting  Paris  as  an  "  old  fogey  "  he  recalls  his 
remembrances  of  younger  and  more  jovial  days. 

This  Bouillabaisse  a  noble  dish  is, 

A  sort  of  soup,  a  broth,  a  brew, 
A  hotch-potch  of  all  sorts  of  fishes, 

That  Greenwich  never  could  outdo. 
Green  herbs,  red  peppers,  mussels,  saffron, 

Soles,  onions,  garlic,  roach  and  dace; 
All  these  you  eat  at  Torre's  tavern, 

In  that  one  dish  of  Bouillabaisse. 

Thackeray's  Ballad  of  Bouillabaisse.— 


RECIPES  FOR  FISH  SOUPS  201 

I39._BOUILLABAISSE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients.— 3  pints  of  fish  stock,  i  Spanish  onion,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  salad  oil,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  2  ozs.  of 
creme  de  riz  (or  rice-flour),  i  glass  of  white  wine  (if  liked),  salt  and 
pepper,  fillets  of  fried  fish. 

Method.— Slice  the  onion  finely  and  fry  until  golden  brown  in  the 
salad  oil.  Stir  in  the  creme  de  riz,  add  the  stock,  and  stir  until  it  boils  ; 
remove  the  scum  as  it  rises,  then  cover,  simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour, 
and  rub  through  a  tammy-cloth  or  fine  hair  sieve.  Return  to  the  sauce- 
pan, and  bring  nearly  to  boiling  point.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add 
to  them  the  cream,  strain  into  the  soup,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
until  the  soup  thickens  slightly,  but  without  boiling,  or  it  may  curdle. 
Add  the  wine,  and  season  to  taste.  Have  ready  some  SMALL  fillets 
of  sole,  turbot,  cod,  or  other  white  fish,  fried  in  a  little  salad  oil  ;  place 
them  in  the  tureen  and  pour  the  soup  over  them.  Serve  with  fried 
croutons,  and  cut  lemon. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  From  is.  od.  to  2S.  per  quart. 
Seasonable  at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 


140.— CRAYFISH  SOUP.     (Fr.— Bisque  d'Ecrevisses.) 

Ingredients. — 20  to  30  crayfish,  2  Ixined  anchovies,  4  ozs.  of  butter 
of  rice,  i  French  dinner  roll,  i  small  onion,  2  cloves,  2  quarts  of 
fish  stock,  j  of  a  pint  of  milk,  about  j  of  a  pint  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice,  salt   and   pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  gut  from  the  centre  fin  of  the  tail  of  each  cray- 
fish. Shell  the  fish,  and  pound  the  shells,  half  the  tails,  and  the  an- 
chovies, in  the  mortar,  with  the  butter.  Place  the  pounded  materials 

;e\\pan,  stir  until  hot,  then  add  the  rice,  previously  \\ . 
and  drained,  the  onion  and  cloves.  Fry  for  about  15  minutes,  then 
pour  in  the  stock,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  until  the  rice  is  tender. 
Meanwhile  soak  the  crumb  of  the  French  roll  in  the  milk  until  soft 
and  add  it  to  the  soup.  When  the  rice  is  sufficiently  cooked  rub  the 
soup  through  a  tammy-cloth  or  fine  sieve,  and  return  it  to  tho  stew- 
pan.  Ke-heat,  season  to  taste;  add  the  lemon-juice,  cream,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  crayfish  tails.  Serve  with  croutons  of  fried  or  toasted 
bread. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 
Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

THE  CRAYFISH  or  CRAWFISH  (Fr.  :  Ecrevisse),  or  river  lobster,  is  a  long-tailed,  ten-footed  crustacean 
ling  thr  lobster,  and  similar  to  it  in  its  habits.     It  was  considered  a  delicacy  by  the  Greeks  and 
.  and  was  eaten  by  them  seasoned  with  pepper  and  other  condiments.     Crayfish  are  t><->t  pre- 
! i v,-bv  keeping  them  in  baskets  with  fr.-»h  ur.i-.-r  pl.uit-  su<  \\  a-  the  nettle,  or  in  a  v.  - 
tainins  only  a  sii-ht  depth  of  water.     A- th<  .  r  i\ti-h  requires  a  quantity  of  air,  the  water  should  be 
I 


202  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

141.— EEL  BROTH.     (Fr.—  Bouillon  d'Anguille.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  onion,  i  oz.  dripping  or  butter,  i 
skinned  eel,  3  pints  stock  or  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  crushed  tapioca 
or  sago,  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley. 

Method. — Peel  and  slice  the  onion,  and  fry  it  in  hot  fat  till 
pale-brown,  but  not  burnt.  Cut  up  a  skinned  eel,  put  it  into  the  pan 
containing  the  fried  onion,  add  3  pints  of  stock  or  water,  boil,  skim, 
and  simmer  gently  for  about  i  hour.  20  minutes  before  serving, 
strain,  replace  in  the  stewpan,  sprinkle  in  the  tapioca  or  sago,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  with  a  little  chopped  parsley 
put  in  at  the  last  moment. 

Time. — i  to  ij  hours.  Average  Cost,  if  made  with  stock,  2s.  per 
quart.  Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  May. 

142.— EEL   SOUP.     (Fr.—  Soupe   aux  Anguilles.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  eels,  i  onion,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  3  blades  of  mace, 
i  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  £  an  oz.  of  peppercorns,  salt  to  taste,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  2  quarts  of  water. 

Method. — Wash  the  eels,  cut  them  into  small  pieces,  and  put  them  in 
the  stewpan  with  the  butter  ;  let  them  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  then 
add  the  water,  the  onion  cut  in  thin  slices,  the  herbs,  mace,  and 
seasoning.  Simmer  till  the  eels  are  tender,  but  unbroken.  Dish 
carefully  and  keep  hot.  Mix  the  flour  to  a  batter  with  a  little  water, 
stir  it  into  the  soup,  and  boil.  Add  the  cream,  pour  over  the  eels  and 
serve. 

Time. — i  hour,  or  rather  more.  Average  Cost,  2S.  Seasonable  from 
June  to  March.  Sufficient  for  8  persons. 

143.— HADDOCK  SOUP.    (Fr.— Potagede  Merluche.) 

Ingredients. — i  fresh  haddock,  2  ozs.  of  butter  or  dripping,  i  oz.  of 
flour,  i  pint  of  stock  or  water,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  onion,  seasoning. 

Method. — Wipe  the  fish,  remove  the  fins  and  eyes,  and  cut  it  into 
pieces.  Boil  it  in  stock  or  water,  and  add  the  milk  and  onion  (peeled 
and  stuck  with  a  clove).  Melt  the  butter  or  dripping,  stir  in  the  flour, 
and  cook  for  a  few  minutes  without. browning.  To  this  add  by  degrees 
the  fish  stock  and  fish,  and  let  the  preparation  simmer  for  30  minutes. 
Pass  the  soup  through  a  sieve,  return  to  the  stewpan,  season  to  taste 
with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg.  Serve  with  fried  bread  croutons. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  5  persons. 
Seasonable  at  all  times. 

144.— LOBSTER  SOUP.     (Fr.— Bisque  de  Homard.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  lobster,  i  quart  of  stock  (preferably  fish),  |  a 


RECIPES  FOR  FISH  SOUPS  203 

pint  of  milk,  2  ozs.  oi  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  carrot,  |a  turnip,  i  or 
2  strips  of  celery,  3  or  4  shallots,  or  i  small  onion,  a  bouquet-garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  salt  and 
pepper,  small  quenelles  of  whiting  or  other  white  fish. 

Method. — Slice  the  vegetables  and  fry  them  in  the  butter  until  pale 
brown,  then  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock,  and  stir  until  it  boils. 
Remove  the  shell  of  the  lobster,  cut  the  meat  from  the  claws  into  dice 
or  cubes,  and  set  it  aside  until  wanted.  Add  the  bouquet-garni,  the 
rest  of  the  lobster,  and  the  pounded  shell  to  the  stock,  simmer  for  £  an 
hour  ;  then  take  out  the  shell  and  rub  the  rest  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Return  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  milk,  and  when  near  boiling  point 
put  in  the  quenelles,  anchovy-essence,  and  necessary  seasoning.  Place 
the  dice  of  lobster  in  the  tureen,  and  pour  in  the  soup. 

Time.— i  £  hours.— Average  Cost,  2s.  Qd.  to  35.  Seasonable  from  April 
to  October.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

1 45. —OYSTER  SOUP.     (Fr.—  Potage  aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  knuckle  of  veal,  i  Ib.  of  plaice,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
i£  ozs.  of  flour,  |  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  1 8  oysters,  i  onion, 
i  bay-leaf,  i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — To  i  quart  of  cold  water  add  the  veal  cut  into  small  pieces, 
the  onion  and  bay-leaf.  Simmer  gently  for  3  hours,  then  strain,  and 
when  cold  remove  the  fat.  Fillet  the  plaice,  remove  the  black  skin, 
and  simmer  the  fish  in  i  quart  of  cold  water  for  about  i  hour,  or  until 
it  is  reduced  to  shreds,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Simmer 
the  beards  of  the  oysters  in  £  a  pint  of  the  fish  stock,  add  the  liquor 
from  the  oysters,  strain,  and  put  aside.  Mix  together  the  veal  and 
fish  stock,  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
stir  in  the  flour,  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  pour  in  the  hot  stock 
and  stir  until  it  boils.  Now  add  the  milk,  oyster  liquor,  anchovy-es- 
sence, and  season  to  taste.  If  the  oysters  are  large,  cut  them  in 
halves,  and  put  them  into  the  boiling  soup  just  before  serving,  but 
they  must  not  be  allowed  to  cook.  Stir  in  the  cream  at  the  last 
moment. 

Time.— 2  hours,  after  veal  stock  is  made.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  April.  Sufficient  for  10  persons. 

146.— SKATE  SOUP.      (Fr.— Potage  de  Raie.) 

Ingredients. — i  skate,  weighing  from  H  to  2  Ib.,  i  onion  sliced,  i  strip 
of  celery  in  small  pieces,  i  bay-leaf,  2  ozs.  of  vermicelli,  2  yolks  of  eggs, 
£  of  a  pint  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper,  3  pints  of  water. 

Method. — Clean  the  skate  thoroughly,  and  let  it  hang  at  least  a  day, 
and  in  cold  weather  even  longer.  When  ready  to  use,  remove  the  skin, 


204  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

divide  the  flesh  into  fillets,  which  put  aside.  Put  the  bones  and  trim1- 
mings  into  a  saucepan,  add  the  water,  onion,  celery,  bay-leaf,  white 
pepper  or  peppercorns,  and  a  little  salt,  and  simmer  gently  for  i  hour. 
Strain,  return  the  stock  to  the  saucepan,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  add  the 
fillets  of  fish.  Continue  to  cook  slowly  for  10  minutes,  then  sprinkle 
in  the  vermicelli,  and  after  5  minutes  further  cooking,  add  the  yolks  of 
eggs  and  cream  previously  well  beaten  together.  Stir  and  cook  gently 
until  the  soup  thickens  slightly,  then  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  23,  Sufficient  for  6 
persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

Miscellaneous. 

147.— BAKED  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  cuit  au  four.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  cold  water,  i  Ib.  of  lean  beef  or  mutton, 
£  a  pint  of  split  peas,  i  tablespoonful  of  rice,  i  onion  sliced,  i  carrot, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  rice  and  peas,  put  them  into  a  stew-jar  with  the 
vegetables  and  the  meat,  cut  into  small  pieces,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  add  the  water.  Cover  closely,  cook  in  a  rather  slow  oven 
for  3  or  4  hours,  skim,  and  turn  the  whole  into  a  soup  tureen,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  Sufficient  for 
8  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

148.— BAKED  SOUP  OR  COTTAGE  SOUP. 
(Fr. — Potage   Paysanne.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  i  onion  sliced,  i  carrot  sliced,  £  of  a 
turnip  sliced,  2  tomatoes  sliced,  2  or  3  strips  of  celery  shredded,  2  ozs. 
of  rice  blanched,  salt  and  pepper,  4  pints  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  put  it  into  a  stewjar  with 
the  prepared  vegetables,  water,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper,  cover  closely,  cook  in  a  slow  oven  for  4  hours,  adding  the  rice 
about  i  hour  before  serving.  Turn  the  whole  into  a  soup  tureen,  or 
serve  in  the  pot  in  which  it  was  cooked. 

Time. — 4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  4  persons*  Seasonable 
at  any  time,  especially  in  winter. 

149.— BAKED  SOUP  OR  COTTAGE  SOUP. 

(Fr. — Potage   Paysanne.)      Another  Method. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  i  turnip,  £  a  head  of 
celery,  2  tomatoes,  2  ozs.  of  boiled  rice,  seasoning. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  dice-shaped  pieces,  peel  the  onion,  carrot 
and  turnip,  clean  the  celery,  and  cut  up  each  into  slices  or  small  pieces. 


fcECIPES  FOR  MISCELLANEOUS    SOUPS  205 

Slice  the  tomatoes.  Put  all  the  ingredients,  including  the  rice,  in 
layers,  into  an  earthenware  soup-pot  with  4  to  5  pints  «>i  water.  Season 
to  taste,  and  cover  the  pan;  when  it  boils,  skim  and  place  the  pan  with 
the  lid  on  in  the  oven.  Allow  it  to  cook  in  the  oven  lor  about  2 
hours,  or  longer.  Serve  the  soup  in  the  soup-pot  in  which  it  i^  cooked. 
Time.— 3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  lor  5-6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  all  times. 

150.— BENEVOLENT  SOUP. 

Cheap  soup,  suitable  for  a  soup  kitchen. 

Ingredients. — -J-  an  ox-cheek,  4  celery  tops,  2  large  carrots,  4  lar^e 
onions,  2  large  turnips,  i  cabbage,  salt  and  pepper,  a  bunch  of  herbs, 
10  quarts  of  cold  water,  i£  pints  dried  peas  or  lentils. 

Method. — Bone  the  ox-cheek,  cut  up  the  meat  into  small  ]•: 
put  all  into  a  large  boiler,  add  the  cold  water;  when  it  comes  to  the 
boil  skim,  then  throw  in  the  vegetables,  which  have  been  cleaned  and 
cut  in  quarters,  the  bunch  of  herbs,  pepper  and  salt.  Let  these  m^redi- 
c-iUs  simmer  gently  for  4  hours.  Add  the  cabbage  an  hour  belore 
serving.  If  peas  or  lentils  are  used  soak  them  over  night,  then  cook 
them  with  the  above  ingredients.  Season  the  soup  again  just  before 
serving. 

Time. — 6  or  7  hours.  Average  Cost,  2d.  per  pint.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

151.— BONE  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  bones,  cooked  or  uncooked,  2  carrots,  2  onions, 
i  turnip,  i  strip  of  celery,  a  bouquet  r^ley,  thyme,  IMV  Ir.it  . 

u  peppercorns,  2  cloves,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tine  sa.n<»,  crushed  t    : 
semolina-,  or  Florador,  2  oz.  of  fat,  salt,  5  pints  of  water. 

Method. — Break  tho  bones  into  small  pieces,  and  fry  them  in  the  hot 
fat  until  well  browned.  Put  in  the  water  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  salt , 
bring  to  the  boil  and  skim  well.  Add  the  prepared  \e;e tables  (cut 
into  thick  slices),  herbs,  peppercorns,  and  cloves,  and  cook  gently  for 
about  5  hours,  skimming  occasionally.  Strain,  return  to  the  saucepan, 
i  to  taste,  and  when  the  soup  boils  sprinkle  in  the  sago,  or  what- 
ever farinaceous  substance  is  used,  simmer  for  i->  minutes  longer  to 
cook  the  sago,  then  serve. 

Time.— About  6  hours.  Cost,  yd.  to  is.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

— The  stock  lor  this  soup  could  be  made  the  day  before  the  soup  is 

wanted,  and  the  sago  sprinkled  in  when  re-heated. 

152.— BRILLA  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — 3  quarts  of  cold  water,  2^  Ib.  of  shin  of  beef,  i  onion, 


206         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

i  carrot,  £•  of  a  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
i  tablespoonful  of  fine  sago,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Place  the  meat  and  water  in  an  earthenware  stewing- jar, 
add  a  little  salt,  cook  gently  on  the  stove,  or  in  a  moderate  oven,  for 
4  hours,  then  strain  off  the  liquor.  When  cold,  remove  the  fat  from  the 
surface,  and  boil  up  the  stock.  Meanwhile  cut  the  vegetables  into  small 
dice,  add  them  to  the  stock  when  boiling,  put  in  the  bouquet-garni, 
and  simmer  gently  until  the  vegetables  are  tender.  10  minutes  before 
serving  sprinkle  in  the  sago,  and  stir  occasionally  to  prevent  it  sinking 
to  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  When  ready,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour,  after  the  stock  is  made.  Average  Cost, 
is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

I53._COW-HEEL  SOUP. 

Ingredients. —  i  cow-heel,  3  pints  of  water,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  i  strip  of 
celery,  i  tablespoonful  of  sago  or  crushed  tapioca,  chopped  parsley, 
lemon  juice,  salt,  pepper,  grated  nutmeg. 

Method. — Clean  and  scald  one  cow-heel,  divide  into  4  parts,  and 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  cold  water.  Add  a  good  pinch  of 
salt,  boil  up,  skim,  and  add  soup,  vegetables  (onion,  carrot  and  celery). 
Let  these  simmer  gently  for  3  hours  or  longer,  then  strain  and  sea- 
son. Remove  some  of  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  cut  it  into  very 
small  pieces  ;  put  these  with  the  broth,  let  it  boil,  and  stir  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sago  or  crushed  tapioca.  Boil  for  another  25  minutes,  then 
serve,  adding  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  lemon-juice  just  before 
sending  it  to  table.  This  soup,  when  well  made,  is  considered  very 
delicious  as  well  as  nourishing. 

Time. — 3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

154.— SOUR     CHERRY    SOUP.         (Fr.— Soupe    aux 
Cerises.) 

Ingredients.— i  Ib.  of  sour  cooking  cherries  (stoned),  3  or  4  Invicbachs 
(rusks),  3  pints  of  water,  2  inches  of  cinnamon,  lemon-rind,  £  of  a  Ib. 
of  loaf  sugar,  %  of  a  pint  of  white  or  red  wine,  i  oz.  of  butter,  %  an  oz.  of 
flour,  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  stoned  cherries  in  a  stewpan.  Break  the  cherry 
stones  and  remove  the  kernels,  add  them  to  the  cherries,  put  in  the 
water  and  the  broken  pieces  of  rusks,  cinnamon  and  lemon  rind.  Cook 
slowly  for  20  minutes,  then  rub  all  through  a  sieve.  Melt  the  butter 
in  another  stewpan,  add  flour,  and  fry  a  chestnut-brown  colour. 
Moisten  with  the  wine  and  a  little  water.  Add  the  cherry  pulp,  etc., 
sugar,  and  a  small  pinch  of  salt.  Boil  again,  and  serve  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  in  June  and  July. 


GRAVIES,  SAUCES    AND 
FORCEMEATS. 

CHAPTER    IX. 

General  observations  on  Gravies  and  Sauces,  with 
directions  in  regard  to  the  foundation  or 
standard  Sauces,  See. 

Sauces  and  Gravies. — Until  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  cookery 
was  a  neglected  art  in  England,  and  sauces  were  practically  unknown. 
A  celebrated  Frenchman  who  lived  in  that  age  humorously  described 
us  as  "  a  nation  with  one  sauce."  History  has  not  recorded  the  name 
of  that  particular  sauce  ;  but  it  could  not  have  been  the  ancient  sauce 
of  the  Romans,  which  tradition  has  handed  down  to  us  under  the  naim* 
of  "  Garum."  This  sauce  is  made  from  anchovy  brine,  and  is  largely 
used  by  the  Turks  in  the  preparation  of  their  national  dish,  "  Pilau," 
but  the  presence  of  the  strong  flavour  of  anchovy,  however  desirable 
in  itself,  would  prevent  its  use  in  many  dishes.  Possibly  "  nu-lud 
butter  "  filled  the  double  office  of  "  sweet  "  and  "  savoury  "  ;  and  it 
would  be  difficult  in  the  present  day  to  find  any  individual  who  passes 
muster  as  a  plain  cook,  whose  knowledge  of  sauces  is  as  restricted  as 
that  of  the  nation  a  hundred  years  ago.  The  unit  must  now  be  multi- 
plied by  something  like  650  to  arrive  at  an  approximate  estimate 
of  the  sauces  and  gravies  in  use  at  the  present  day. 

Importance  of  Sauces. — Brillat-Savarin,  speaking  of  this  branch  of 
cookery,  says  :  "  One  can  learn  to  cook,  and  one  can  be  taught  to  roast, 
but  a  good  sauce-maker  is  a  genius  born,  not  made."  Alexis  Soyer, 
referring  to  this  subject,  writes  :  "  Sauces  are  to  cookery  what 
grammar  is  to  language  " — a  most  apt  comparison,  for  grammars  have 
been  adapted  in  a  hundred  different  ways  to  suit  the  genius  of  the  lan- 
guages they  dominate.  And  so  with  sauces  ;  they  form  an  essential 
part  of  cookery,  yet  the  innumerable  variations  of  each  class  have 
to  be  skilfully  adapted  to  the  dishes  with  which  they  are  amalgamated 
or  served,  in  order  to  give  some  necessary  flavouring  or  produce  some 
desired  effect.  Every  cook  should  endeavour  to  attain  proficiency 
in  this  branch  of  cookery,  a  task  by  no  means  so  difficult  as  the  number 
of  sauces  would  lead  us  to  suppose,  for,  if  the  few  which  have  for  their 
ither  oil.  wine  or  fruit,  are  excluded,  the  remainder  are  simply 
tions  of  the  two  foundation  sauces,  white  and  brown. 

so? 


208  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Use  of  Sauces  and  Gravies. — Each  sauce  must  possess  a  distinct  flavour 
and  character  of  its  own,  and  add  either  richness,  piquancy,  or  flavour 
without  losing  its  own  identity  ;  but  unless  purposely  employed  to 
disgijise  the  absence  of  flavour  in  some  insipid  substance,  they  should 
never  be  allowed  to  overpower  the  natural  flavour  of  dishes  of  game, 
poultry,  meat,  etc,,  with  which  they  are  served.  The  excellence  of  many 
entrees  depends  almost  entirely  on  the  sauces  which  enter  largely  into  their 
composition.  Boiled  fish  would  be  insipid  without  an  appropriately 
flavoured  sauce.  Some  dishes  of  boiled  meat,  and  many  simple  pud- 
dings are  almost  unpalatable  without  their  customary  sauces  ;  while  a 
good  gravy  is  indispensable  with  meat,  poultry,  and  game. 

Difference  between  Sauces  and  Gravies. — Gravy  is  simply  the  juices  of 
meat,  diluted  and  seasoned  but  not  thickened,  except  the  slightly- 
thickened  brown  gravy,  which  ought  really  to  rank  as  a  thin  sauce. 

Sauce. — Sauce  has  been  defined  as  a  LIQUID  SEASONING,  thickened  by 
means  of  one  of  the  following  liaisons  (or  mixtures  of  yolk  of  eggs, 
cream,  etc.,  used  for  thickening  or  binding  white  soups  and  sauces)  : — 

1.  Roux — white. 

2.  „       fawn. 

3.  ,,       brown. 

4.  Eggs  and  cream. 

5.  Butter  and  cream. 

6.  Blended  butter  and  flour. 

7.  Blood. 

8.  Arrowroot,  cornflour,  Fecule. 

Roux. — The  literal  translation  of  this  word  is  "  russet,"  but  in  a 
culinary  sense  it  is  a  mixture  of  equal  quantities  of  butter  and  flour 
cooked  over  a  slow  fire,  or  in  a  cool  oven,  until  the  desired  colour  is 
acquired.  There  are  three  varieties  of  roux  :  white,  fawn,  and  brown  ; 
and  this  form  of  thickening  is  generally  employed  in  making  good  sauces. 
It  may  be  made  in  small  quantities  as  required,  or  in  larger  quantities, 
which,  if  closely  covered,  will  keep  good  for  months.  When  roux  is 
made  for  immediate  use  it  should  be  allowed  to  cool  slightly  before 
adding  the  liquid  to  it.  When  using  perfectly  cold  roux,  the  liquid 
should  bo  added  to  it  more  gradually  :  in  both  cases  the  sauce  must  be 
constantly  stirred  until  it  boils,  and  then  allowed  to  simmer  until  it  At- 
tains the  required  consistency.  A  heapcd-up  tablespoonful  of  roux 
will  thicken  I  pint  of  liquid.  Directions  for  the  preparation  of  the  re- 
spective liaisons  (sauce  thickenings)  will  be  found  in  the  following  p; 

THE  BASES  OR  FOUNDATIONS  OF  SAUCES. 

The  following  liquids  form  the  bases  of  most  of  the  sauces  : — 

i.  White  Stock. — Nearly  all  the  good  white  savoury  sauces  have 
for  their  foundation  white  stock  and  milk,  used  in  varying  proper tim 


GRAVIES,    SAUCES    AND    FORCEMEATS  209 

2.  Brown  Stock. — All  good  brown  savoury  sauces  are  made  from  stock, 
more  or  less  rich  according  to  the  purpose  for  which  they  are  intended. 

3.  Fish  Stock.— Fish  sauces  usually  have  for  their  foundation  about 
equal  quantities  of  fish  stock  and  milk. 

4.  Milk. — Milk  forms  the  basis  of  nearly  all  the  plain  white  sauces, 
both  sweet  and  savoury,  also  of  bread  sauce. 

5.  Water. — Strictly  speaking,   all     melted    butter   sauces   should   be 
made  only  with  water  ;  a  little  of  the  broth  in  which  fish  or  meat  has  been 
boiled  is  admissible,  and  is  also  an  improvement  to  caper  sauce  ;    but 
when  milk  is  added  to  the  broth,  as  is  frequently  the  case,  to  improve 
the  colour,  the  foundation  becomes  white  sauce,   not  melted  butter 

6.  Oil, — Mayonnaise  sauce,  and  others  of  a  similar  character  known 
as  salad  sauce,  are  composed  almost  entirely  of  oil  as  their  basis 

7.  Fruit. — Apple,  cranberry,  gooseberry,  etc. 

VARIETIES  OF  SAUCES. 

Sauces  may  be  broadly  divided  into  two  classes,  white  and  brown  ; 
each  class  being  further  subdivided  into  sauces  made  by  a  long,  slow 
process,  and  quickly-made  sauces. 

FOUNDATION  OF  STANDARD  SAUCES. 

(a)  White. — Bechamel  forms  the  foundation  of  all  t  he  good  white  samvs  , 
it  is  made  by  the  slow  process,  which  extracts  the  full  flavour  ot  the 
substances  employed. 

(b)  Plain  White   Sauce. — Nearly   all    the   white   sauces   employed    in 
middle-class  cookery  have  for  their  foundation  a  plain  white  sauce 
made  by  the  quick  process.     Their  flavour  depends  mainly  on  the  sub- 
stances added   to  them,  such  as  parsley,  celery,  chocolate,  vanilla, 
orange-essence,  etc. 

(a)  Brown. — Espagnole.— This  sauce  and  the  B6chamel  have  been  aptly 
described  as  "  Adam  "  and  "  Eve."     France  adds  to  them  the  Yeloutee 
and  Allcmande,  and  calls  the  group  the  "  sauces  meres,"  or  "  mother 
sauces."     The  Espagnole  forms   the  basis  of  all  good  brown  sauces, 
and  these,  like  the  white  sauces,  derive  their  distinctive  names  from 
the  substances  added   to   the  foundation  sauce.     The  rich   exquisite 
characteristic  flavour  of  Espagnole  sauce  is  due  partly  to  the  lean  bacon 
or  ham  which  forms  an  indispensable  part  of  it,  and  partly  to  the  long, 
slow  frying  process  to  which  the  flour  and  other  ingredients  are  sub- 
jected. 

(b)  Plain  Brown  Sauces. — These  sauces  are  always  less  quickly  made 
than  the  plain  white  sauces,  for  no  matter  how  simple  they  may  be. 


210         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  flour  must  be  fried  brown  before  adding  the  liquid.  A  little  caramel 
may  be  introduced  to  IMPROVE  the  colour,  but  it  imparts  nothing  to 
the  flavour,  whereas  frying  develops  the  full  flavour  of  both  the  flour 
and  vegetables  used  in  making  brown  sauces. 


STOCK  FOR  GRAVY. 

Gravy,  pure  and  simple,  is  usually  described  as  "  the  juices  of  the 
meat  "  ;  and  it  has  been  said  that  good  gravy  is  an  evidence  of  bad 
roasting  or  baking.  But  experience  teaches  us  that  the  best  gravy 
accompanies  a  joint  which  has  been  roasted  before  an  open  fire  and  well 
basted  during  the  process,  as  is  the  custom  in  the  north  of  England.  Not- 
withstanding the  argument  that  if  the  juices  of  the  meat  are  in  the  gravy 
the  joint  must  suffer,  the  north-country  meat,  when  cut,  is  found  to  be  full 
of  gravy.  Long  before  science  had  discovered  the  coagulating  pro- 
perties of  albumin,  it  was  the  custom  to  put  plenty  of  dripping  into 
the  tin  before  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it  was  hot  the  joint  was  hung  on 
the  "  jack  "  and  well  basted.  Without  knowing  the  "  why  and  where- 
fore," the  most  ignorant  housewife  would  have  explained  that  this 
method  KEPT  THE  GRAVY  IN.  As  the  meat  cooked  before  the  clear 
bright  fire  it  became  crisp  and  brown  ;  and  each  time  it  was  basted 
some  of  the  brown  particles  on  the  surface  of  the  joint  were  carried 
down  into  the  dripping  and  settled  on  the  bottom  of  the  tin,  to  be 
afterwards  converted  into  gravy.  From  the  above  facts,  we  draw  the 
conclusion  that  a  browned  surface  and  frequent  basting  produce  good 
gravy.  Meat  baked  in  the  oven  has  not  quite  the  same  flavour  and 
nourishment  as  when  roasted,  but  a  juicy  joint  and  good  gravy  are 
possibilities  under  the  following  conditions  :  the  joint  must  be  well 
basted  with  melted  dripping  or  other  fat  before  being  put  into  the  oven  ; 
the  oven  must  be  kept  fairly  hot  until  the  meat  is  well  browned  all  over  ; 
in  the  later  stages  of  cooking  the  oven  door  should  not  be  entirely 
closed,  for  meat  cannot  become  crisp  and  brown  in  an  oven  full  of 
steam  ;  the  joint  must  be  frequently  basted.  Gravy  in  its  most  simple 
form  is  made  by  adding  boiling  water  to  the  sediment  which  remains 
in  the  meat  tin  when  the  fat  has  been  carefully  poured  off.  It  should 
be  seasoned  to  taste,  boiled  up,  stirring  meanwhile  to  loosen  the  brown 
particles  which  adhere  to  the  sides  of  the  tin,  well  skimmed,  and 
strained  over  or  round  the  meat.  Any  bones  that  have  been  removed 
from  the  meat  may  be  boiled  to  form  the  basis  of  the  gravy,  but 
nothing  else  must  be  introduced.  Beef  gravy  must  contain  only  salt 
and  pepper  ;  and  mutton  gravy  the  same  ingredients,  and  a  few 
drops  of  caramel  when  the  gravy  is  very  light  in  colour.  Veal  gravy, 
also,  should  be  made  from  the  bones,  and  after  being  mixed  with  that 
in  the  meat  tin,  should  be  slightly  thickened  with  flour  and  butter 
kneaded  together,  or  flour  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little  water. 
Gravies  served  with  game,  roast  rabbit?,  etc.,  may  be  made  frorn.  beef, 


I 


GRAVIES,   SAUCES   AND   FORCEMEATS  211 

beef  or  game  bones,  or  from  stock.  Clear  stock  must  be  used  for  clear 
gravies,  but  with  this  exception,  any  good  second  stock  will  serve. 
An  economical  cook  will  always  contrive  to  provide  the  basis  of 
gravies,  sauces,  and  soups  out  of  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  poultry 
and  meat,  except,  of  course,  the  clear  soups  and  gravies,  which  must 
have  a  good  clear  stock  for  their  foundation. 

STOCK  FOR  SAUCES. 

Bechamel,  Veloutee,  Allemande,  and  sauces  of  a  similar  character, 
must  have  for  their  foundation  white  stock  made  from  chicken  or  veal, 
or  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  same.  The  stock  for  Espagnole 
sauce,  and  those  sauces  of  which  it  forms  the  basis,  may  be  made  from 
any  kind  of  meat,  trimmings,  bones,  livers,  and  gizzards  of  game  and 
poultry  ;  it  must  be  rich,  of  good  colour,  but  not  necessarily  very  clear. 
The  second  stock  (No.  7,)  well  reduced,  would  be  suitable  for  this 
purpose. 

\«!c. — If  the  stock  is  poor  it  can  be  enriched  by  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of 
"Lemco"  Meat  Extract. 

CONSISTENCY  OF  SAUCES. 

The  consistency  of  a  sauce  varies  according  to  its  use.  For  a  coating 
sauce,  that  is,  a  sauce  thick  enough  to  mask  a  chicken,  cutlets,  etc.,  over 
which  it  is  poured,  the  proportions  are  i£  ozs.  of  flour  to  i  pint  of  liquid, 
when  made  by  the  slow  process,  during  which  the  sauce  becomes  con- 
siderably reduced,  but  when  made  by  the  quick  process  nearly  2  ozs. 
of  flour  must  be  allowed  to  i  pint  of  liquid.  Sauces  to  be  served 
separately  in  a  sauceboat  or  poured  round  the  base  of  a  dish,  should  be 
made  a  little  thinner,  but  it  is  always  better  to  err  on  the  side  of  over- 
thickening,  it  being  much  easier  to  reduce  the  consistency  by  adding  a 
little  more  stock  or  milk,  than  to  increase  the  consistency  by  reducing  the 
quantity.  The  latter  can  only  be  done  by  boiling  the  liquid  rapidly  in 
an  uncovered  pan,  which  is  not  always  convenient  at  the  time  of 
serving  dinner.  Reducing  by  rapid  boiling  is  a  method  which  may  be 
usefully  employed  in  dealing  with  stock  too  poor  to  make  a  suitable 
foundation  for  a  good  soup  or  sauce.  As  the  stock  is  reduced  by 
evaporation,  its  flavour  and  richness  become  concentrated,  and  if 
frequently  skimmed  it  gains  considerably  in  brightness  and  colour. 

TIME    REQUIRED    FOR   COOKING. 

Sauces  made  by  the  slow  process  are  allowed  to  simmer  for  2 
or  3  hours,  or  until  all  the  unabsorbed  fat  conies  to  the  surface. 
Frequent  stirring  is  necessary,  also  occasional  skimming  to  remove 
the  fat  as  it  rises.  The  ordinary,  or  quickly-made  sauces,  should  not 
have  the  liquid  added  until  the  flour  and  butter  have  been  cooked 
together  for  3  or  4  minutes,  or,  when  flour  kneaded  with  butter 
is  used,  or  flour  moistened  with  milk  or  stock  is  used,  the  liquid 
to  which  they  are  added  should  be  allowed  to  simmer  for  at  least 


2i2         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

5   minutes  after   coming  to  the  boil,  otherwise  the  sauce  has  an  un- 
pleasant taste  of  raw  flour. 

Sometimes  sauces  made  by  the  long  process  are  over-cooked  and 
become  oily.  In  this  case  a  little  cold  stock,  milk  or  water,  can  be 
added,  and  the  sauce  stirred  until  it  boils,  when  it  will  again  become 
smooth,  but  it  must  then  immediately  be  removed  from  the  fire. 

PREPARATIONS  OF  INGREDIENTS. 

To  avoid  repetition,  the  vegetables  used  in  the  following  recipes 
are  spoken  of  as  "  prepared,"  meaning  that  the  carrots  have  been 
scraped,  the  turnips  peeled,  and  the  onions  peeled. 

A  bouquet-garni  consists  of  a  sprig  or  two  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf,  a 
sprig  of  thyme,  a  sprig  of  marjoram,  a  sprig  of  basil,  and  a  blade  of 
mace,  all  tied  together  in  a  little  bouquet.  Any  of  these  herbs  may 
be  omitted  and  others  substituted,  according  to  taste. 

As  regards  the  quantities  given  in  the  recipes,  they  have  been  kept 
as  uniform  as  possible  ;  and  in  most  cases  provide  sufficient  sauce  to 
fill  a  sauce-tureen,  or  for  pouring  round  an  entree  or  pudding. 

THICKENINGS  FOR  SAUCES. 

White  Roux. — In  making  white  roux,  equal  quantities  of  butter  and 
flour  are  stirred  in  a  stewpan  over  a  slow  fire  for  10  or  15  minutes, 
but  without  allowing  the  roux  to  take  any  colour.  If  for  immediate 
use,  the  roux  must  cool  slightly  before  adding  the  liquid. 

Fawn  Roux. — For  fawn  or  blonde  roux,  take  equal  quantities  of 
butter  and  flour,  and  cook  slowly  over  the  fire  or  in  a  cool  oven  until 
the  mixture  acquires  a  pale  fawn  colour. 

Brown  Roux. — This  third  variety  is  usually  called  "  stock  roux," 
because  where  roux  is  being  constantly  used  a  large  quantity  of  it  is 
made  and  kept  in  stock.  The  proportion  of  butter  and  flour  are  the 
same  as  for  white  and  fawn  roux.  The  nut-brown  colour  is  obtained 
by  a  long,  slow  process  of  frying  or  roasting,  during  which  much  of  the 
flavour  characteristic  of  well-made  brown  sauce  is  developed. 

Egg  Liaison. — This  thickening  is  composed  of  yolks  of  eggs  beaten  up 
with  a  small  quantity  of  cream,  milk,  or  white  stock.  The  sauce  to 
which  this  liaison  (or  thickening)  is  added  must  require  no  further 
cooking.  One  to  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  sauce  should  be  mixed 
with  the  eggs  and  cream,  and  the  whole  then  strained  into  the  sauce, 
which  should  be  just  below  boiling  point.  To  remove  the  raw  taste 
of  the  eggs,  it  is  necessary  to  cook  and  stir  the  sauce  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes,  but  it  must  not  be  allowed  to  boil,  or  the  eggs 
may  curdle. 

Butter  and  Cream  Liaison. — When  butter  and  cream  are  employed  for 


GRAVIES,    SAUCES    AM)    FORCEMEATS  213 

thickening,  they  are  added  in  equal  proportions  to  the  sauce  ji/sr 
i.LiokE  SKKVING  :  re-heating  would  spoil  the  flavour  of  the  sauce. 

Kneaded  Butter  Liaison. — This  form  of  liaison  is  exceedingly  useful 
when  no  roux  is  at  hand,  and  a  little  additional  thickein  aired. 

Butter  will  absorb  about  its  own  weight  in  flour,  and  the  two  are 
knead?d  together  on  a  plate  until  all  the  flour  is  absorbed,  or,  in  other 
words,  thoroughly  moistened  by  the  butter.  This  liaison  should  be 
added  to  the  sauce  in  small  portions  and  stirred  until  it  is  smoothly 
mixed  with  it. 

Blood  Liaison. — This  liaison  is  used  principally  to  thicken  sauces  for 
game  and  poultry  entrees.  The  blood  of  poultry  or  game  should  be 
mixed  with  a  little  vinegar,  to  prevent  coagulation.  It  should  be 
strained  and  added  gradually  to  the  sauce  a  few  minutes  before 
serving. 

Arrowroot,  Cornflour,  Fecule  Liaison. — Before  adding  any  of  these 
substances  to  the  sauce,  they  must  be  smoothly  mixed  with  a  little  cold 
stock,  milk,  or  water.  The  liaison  is  stirred  into  the  boiling  sauce, 
and  simmered  for  not  less  than  2  minutes  to  cook  the  starch. 


RECIPES   FOR 

GRAVIES,     SAUCES    AND 

FORCEMEATS. 

CHAPTER    X. 

Auxiliaries  for  Sauces,  Compound  Butters,  Gravies,  etc., 
White  Sauces  (hot  and  cold)  and  Salad  Dress- 
ings, Brown,  Fish,  Fruit,  Sweet  and  Miscellaneous 
Sauces,  Forcemeats,  etc. 

Auxiliaries  for  Sauces. 

I55.—CARAMEL  FOR  COLOURING  SAUCES. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  castor  or  moist  sugar,  3  gills  of  water. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  and  a  good  tablespoonf ul  of  water  into  an 
untinned  stewpan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  becom.es  dark-brown. 
Boil  it,  add  the  rest  of  the  water  to  the  sugar,  stir  until  it  boils,  simmer 
until  the  caramel  acquires  the  consistency  of  syrup,  and,  when  cold, 
bottle  for  use.  It  may  be  used  for  sweet  or  savoury  sauces. 

Time. — About  40  minutes. 

156.— CARAMEL       FOR       COLOURING       SAUCES. 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  sugar,  2  tablespoonf uls  of  salt,  £  of  a  pint  of 
boiling  water. 

Method. — Put  the  salt  and  sugar  into  an  iron  saucepan  or  frying  pan, 
and  stir  and  cook  until  dark-brown,  add  the  water,  boil  well,  and,  when 
cold,  bottle  for  use. 

Time. — About  30  minutes. 

157— CHILI  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — 50  fresh  red  English  chilies,  i  pint  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Pound  the  chilies  or  cut  them  in  half,  and  infuse  them  in 
the  vinegar  for  a  fortnight,  when  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  This  will  be 
found  an  agreeable  relish  to  fish,  as  many  people  prefer  to  eat  it  with 
the  addition  of  an  acid  and  cayenne  pepper. 

214 


RECIPES  FOR  COMPOUND    BUTTERS  215 

Compound  Butters. 

Chiefly  used  for  the  enrichment  of  sauces. 

I58._ CRAYFISH   OR   SHRIMP   BUTTER.         (Fr.- 
Beurre  d'Ecrevisses.) 

Method. — Pound  £  a  pint  of  picked  shrimps  or  prawns  in  a  mortar 
till  smooth,  add  3  ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  anchovy  paste  ;  mix 
thoroughly,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Keep  on  the  ice  till  wanted. 
A.  little  liquid  carmine  or  cochineal  may  be  added  to  improve  colour, 
if  found  necessary. 

159.— DEVILLED  BUTTER.  (Fr—  Beurre  a  la  Diable.) 

Method. — Mix  i  oz.  of  butter  with  white  pepper,  cayenne,  and  curry- 
paste,  about  a  saltspoonful  of  each,  and  blend  thoroughly  with  a  few 
irops  of  lemon- juice. 

1 60.— LOBSTER  BUTTER.    (Fr.— Beurre  de  Homard.) 

Method. — Procure  the  eggs  (spawn)  and  coral  of  a  lobster,  pound 
ill  smooth  in  a  mortar  with  double  its  weight  of  fresh  butter,  rub 
hrough  a  fine  sieve,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  till  required. 

c  6 1 .— MONTPELLIER  BUTTER.     (Fr .  —Beurre  Mont- 
pellier.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  each  of  parsley,  chervil,  tarragon,  chives  and  cress  ; 
:  anchovies,  9  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful 
>f  capers,  i  gherkin. 

Method. — Wash  and  pick  the  parsley,  cress  and  herbs,  blanch  for 
;  minutes,  strain  and  cool.  Dry  well  in  a  cloth,  and  pound  in  a 
nortar.  Wipe  and  bone  the  anchovies,  pound  them  in  a  mortar  with 
he  egg-yolks,  capers,  and  gherkins  until  smooth,  then  add  the  butter 
,nd  lastly  the  green  puree.  Pass  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  use  as 
equired.  A  little  spinach  may  be  added  if  the  herbs  should  not  colour 
he  butter  sufficiently. 

:62.— RAVIGOTE    OR    GREEN    BUTTER.         (Fr.— 
Beurre  Ravigote.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  ozs.  of  chervil,  2  ozs.  of  spinach,  i£  ozs.  of  green 
hives,  i  oz.  of  tarragon,  £  an  oz.  of  parsley,  3  shallots,  6  ozs.  of  butter, 
alt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  chervil,  spinach,  chives,  tarragon  and  parsley  into 
.  saucepan  with  waier,  blanch  and  drain  well,  then  pound  these  ingredi- 
nts  in  a  mortar.  Peel  and  chop  the  shallots  finely,  cook  them  in  a 
it  tie  butter  until  golden-brown,  and  mix  them  with  the  herbs.  When 


2i6         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

cold,  work  in  the  remainder  of  the  butter,  pass  through  a  fine  sieve, 
and  add  a  little  pepper  and  salt  and  spinach-greening,  if  necessary. 
Time. — 30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

SPINACH  (Fr.  Epinards)  is  cultivated  for  its  young  leaves,  which  ^re  prepared  for  the  table  by 
boiling  or  frying.  Two  principal  varieties  of  spinach  are  cultivated,  prickly  spinach  with  triangular 
and  arrow-shaped  leaves ;  and  smooth  spinach,  the  leaves  of  which  are  round  and  blunt.  Flanders 
spinach  is  also  grown  for  the  market.  It  is  a  wholesome  vegetable,  and  one  of  its  constituents 
being  iron,  spinach  is  beneficial  to  persons  who  suffer  from  anaemia. 

Gravies. 

163.— BEEF  GRAVY  FOR  POULTRY,  GAME,  Etc. 

Ingredients.— i  pint  of  cold  water,  £  a  lb.  of  lean  beef,  i  small  onion, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Cut  the  beef  into  small  pieces,  put  it  with  the  onion  and 
the  water  into  a  stewpan,  or  earthenware  stewjar,  and  cook  slowly  for 
3  or  4  hours.  Strain,  season,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 3  to  4  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d.    Quantity,  about  f  pint. 

164.— BROWN  GRAVY.     (Fr.— Jus  brun.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  water,  i  lb.  of  neck  or  shin  of  beef,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  sweet  dripping,  4-  oz.  of  flour,  i  medium-sized  onion, 
i  small  slice  of  lean  bacon,  or  a  few  trimmings  of  lean  ham  or  bacon, 
salt  and  pepper,  i  clove,  if  liked. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  and  bacon  into  small  pieces,  slice  the  onion. 
Melt  the  dripping  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  meat,  bacon,  and  onion,  and 
fry  till  brown.  Add  the  water,  salt  and  pepper,  and  clove,  cook  slowly 
for  3  or  4  hours,  and  strain.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the 
flour,  and  cook  for  5  minutes.  Add  the  gravy,  stir  until  it  boils, 
skim,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 3^  to  4^  hours.     Average  Cost,  about  lod.  Quantity,  i  pint. 

CLOVES  (Fr.  Clou  de  girofle). — An  ^.eeable  pungent  aromatic  spice,  obtained  from  the  dried  flower 
buds  of  the  Caryophyllus  aromaticus,  a  handsome  branching  tree  with,  purplish  flowers,  allied  to  the 
myrtle.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  Latin,  clavus,  and  French,  clou,  "  a  nail,"  to  which  the  clove 
is  supposed  to  bear  a  resemblance.  The  clove  is  a  native  of  the  Molucca  Islands,  but  is  successfully 
cultivated  in  Jamaica,  Sumatra,  Mauritius,  Cayenne,  Malacca,  Trinidad,  and  other  places.  The 
Amboyna,  or  royal  clove,  is  said  to  be  the  best,  and  is  obtained  from  the  island  of  that  name,  colonized 
by  the  Dutch.  The  clove  contains  about  20  per  cent,  of  volatile  oil,  which  abounds  in  every  part  of 
the  plant,  occasioning  its  peculiar  pungent  flavour ;  the  rest  is  composed  of  woody  fibre,  water, 
gum,  and  resin.  Cloves  are  used  medicinally,  but  are  chiefly  employed  for  culinary  purposes. 

165.— BROWN   GRAVY   FOR   ROAST   RABBIT. 

(Economical.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  water,  i  oz.  of  beef  dripping,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
\  an  oz.  of  flour,  the  liver  of  the  rabbit,  i  medium-sized  onion,  £  a 
carrot,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt  and  pepper. 


RECIPES  FOR  GRAVIES  217 

Method. — Slice  the  vegetables,  cut  the  liver  into  small  pieces.  M-  It 
the  dripping  in  a  stcwpan,  fry  the  vegetables  and  liver  to  a  nice  brown, 
then  add  the  water,  bouquet-garni,  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  slowly 
for  i  hour.  Strain  and  return  to  the  saucepan,  knead  the  flour  and 
buttwr  well  together  on  a  plate,  add  it,  in  small  portions,  to  the  gravy, 
si ir  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Season  to  taste,  add  a  few  drops  of 
caramel  to  improve  the  colour,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1£  to  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  2M.       Ouantity,  about  ]  pint. 

166.— GRAVY  (Quickly  made).     (Fr.— Jus  de  Viande.) 

Ingredients. — J  of  a  pint  of  water,  V  a  Ib.  of  shin  of  beef,  £  an  oz.  of 
butter,  |  an  onion,  £  of  a  carrot,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  and  vegetables  into  small  pieces  and  fry 
them  brown  in  the  butter.  Add  the  water,  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer 
for  !  an  hour.  Strain,  season,  and  serve.  The  meat  and  vegetables 
should  afterwards  be  put  into  the  stock-pot,  or  with  more  water 
added  to  them  may  be  cooked  until  all  their  goodness  is  extracted. 

Time. — From  40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  5d.  (Juantity, 
about  |  a  pint. 

167.— GRAVY  FOR  GAME.     (Fr.—  Jus  de  Gibier.) 

Ingredients.  -Hones  and  trimmings  of  game,  sufficient  cold  water  to 
cover  them,  a  bay-leaf,  I  clove,  6  peppercorns,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a 
small  piece  of  onion,  i  oz  of  butter  (or  less  if  making  a  small  quant  it  y\ 

Method.— Cut    up    the    trimmings   and    break    the   bones    into   small 
.      Melt  the  butter,  add  the  bones  and  meat,  and  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients,  cover  with  water,  simmer  for  3  hours,  then  strain,  & 
and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 3|-  hours.  Average  Cost,  Hd.  without  the  bones  and  trim- 
mings. 

168.— GRAVY  FOR  HASHES,   Etc. 

Ingredients. — Bones  and  trimmings  of  the  joint  to  be  hashed,  sufficient 
water  to  cover  the  bones,  I  small  onion,   i  strip  ot  celery, 
cairot,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt   and   p. 

ire  the  gravy  when  made,  and  to  each  i  pint  allow  £  oz.  of  butter, 
and  a  dessertspoonful  of  flour. 

Method. — Break  the  bones  into  small  pieces  and  slice  t 
Put  them  into  a  saucepan,  add   the  trimmings  of  th-  water, 

bouquet-garni,  salt  and  pepper,  simmer  for  2  hours,  then  strain. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  fry  brown.  Put  in  the 
gravy,  stir  until  it  boils,  season  to  taste,  and  use  as  required.  A  little 
ketchup,  Harvey,  or  other  sauce  may  be  added  if  liked. 

Time. — About  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  i^d.  per  pint,  exclusive  of 
bones  and  trimmings. 


2i8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

169.— GRAVY  FOR  ROAST  FOWL.     (Economical.) 

Ingredients. — The  necks,  feet,  livers  and  gizzards  of  the  fowls,  sufficient 
water  to  cover  them,  a  slice  of  bacon,  or  the  trimmings  of  ham  or  bacon, 
i  very  small  onion,  a  bouquet  garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  gizzards,  livers  and  necks,  scald  and  skin  the 
feet,  cut  the  whole  into  small  pieces.  Place  them  all  together  in  a  stew- 
pan,  add  the  bacon,  cut  small,  bouquet-garni,  onion  and  seasoning, 
cover  with  water,  and  cook  gently  for  2  hours.  Strain,  and  season  to 
taste.  When  the  fowls  are  roasted,  strain  off  the  fat,  pour  the  gravy 
into  the  tin,  mix  well  with  the  gravy  from  the  fowls,  boil,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  2|  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  i£d. 

170.— GRAVY    FOR    ROAST    HARE,     Etc. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  water,  \  a  Ib.  of  skirt  of  beef,  \  a  Ib.  of  milt 
(ox  spleen),  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion,  2  cloves,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  and  milt  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  a 
stewpan,  or  earthenware  stewjar,  add  the  water,  onion,  cloves,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  cook  gently  for  3  or  4  hours,  then  strain.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour  and  brown  it,  add  the  gravy, 
stir  until  it  boils,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 4  to  5  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  6d.  Quantity,  about  i  pint. 

171.— GRAVY  WITHOUT  MEAT. 

Ingredients. — \  an  onion,  i  small  carrot,  £  oz  of  dripping,  £  a  pint 
of  water,  i  teaspoonful  of  Marmite,  Odin,  or  any  other  kind  of  vege- 
table extract. 

Method. — Cut  up  the  onion  and  carrot  into  slices;  fry  both  in  the 
dripping.  When  nicely  browned  add  the  water,  and  Marmite  or  Odin 
extract.  Boil  up,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  for  10  minutes. 
Skim  well  and  strain. 

Time. — 25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.     Quantity,  £  a  pint. 

I72._ JUGGED    GRAVY.     (Excellent.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  water,  2  Ib.  of  shin  of  beef,  £  Ib.  of  lean 
ham,  i  small  carrot,  i  strip  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),  a  blade  of  mace,  6  peppercorns,  i  clove,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  ham  and  beef  into  small  pieces,  and  slice  the  vege- 
tables. Put  them  into  a  stewing  jar  in  alternate  layers,  sprinkle  each  layer 
with  salt,  add  the  peppercorns,  mace,  bouquet-garni,  and  water,  cover 


WHITE  SAUCES  AND  SALAD  DRESSINGS  219 

closely,  and  tie  3  or  4  folds  of  well-greased  paper  on  the  top  to  keep 
in  the  steam.  Place  the  jar  in  a  rather  cool  oven,  and  cook  gently  for 
6  hours,  then  strain,  and  when  cold  remove  the  fat.  Re-heat,  and  serve 
with  any  dish  that  requires  good  gravy. 

Time. — About  6£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to   is.  8d.    Quantity, 
about  i  quart. 

173.— VENISON  GRAVY. 

Ingredients. —  i  small  jar  of  red-currant  jelly,  i  glass  of  port. 
Method. — Heat  the  above  ingredients  in  a  stewpan  to  near  boiling 
point,  and  serve  separately  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — 5  minutes.     Average  Cost,    lod.     Quantity,  less  than  £  a  pint. 


White    Sauces    (hot    and     cold) 
and  Salad  Dressings. 

174.— ALLEMANDE  SAUCE.  (Fr.— Sauce  Allemande.) 
(For  Meat  and  Fish.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  white  stock,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and 
cook  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then  put  in  the  stock  and 
bring  to  the  boil,  stirring  meanwhile.  Let  it  simmer  gently  for  ^  an 
hour,  take  it  off  the  stove,  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  cream  pre- 
viously mixed  together,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  season  to  taste. 
Continue  lo  stir  and  cook  slowly  without  boiling  for  a  few  minutes 
longer,  then  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  the  remainder  of  the  butter 
bit  by  bit,  s  irring  the  ingredients  well  between  each  addition.  Pass 
through  a  fine  strainer  or  tammy  cloth,  re-heat,  and  use. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.     Quantity,  i  pint. 

175.— ASPARAGUS  SAUCE.    (Fr.— Sauce  Asperges.) 

Ingredients. — 25  green  asparagus,  £  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  page 
221),  £  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  |  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  spinach  or  a 
little  spinach -greening,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  green  ends  of  the  asparagus,  boil  them  in  salt 
and  water  for  10  minutes,  and  drain  well.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  sauce- 


220  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

pan,  fry  the  asparagus  for  8  minutes,  add  the  sauce,  and  a  sea- 
soning of  salt  and  pepper  and  a  little  spinach  greening  if  a  deep  tint 
is  desired.  Simmer  gently  for  15  minutes,  then  pass  through  a  fine 
strainer  or  tammy  cloth;  re-heat,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  use  as  required. 
Time. — From  40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Quan- 
tity, $  a  pint. 

176.— BEARNAISE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Bearnaise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  shallots,  peeled  and  chopped  finely,  a  few  fresh  tarragon 
leaves,  I  gill  of  French  wine  vinegar,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  \  a  teaspoonful  of 
Mignonette  pepper,  a  little  salt,  \  a  gill  of  Bechamel  sauce,  3  ozs.  of 
butter,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  tarragon  leaves. 

Method. — Put  the  vinegar,  shallots,  and  whole  tarragon  leaves  in  a 
stewpan,  cover  it,  and  let  the  liquor  reduce  to  about  one-eighth  of  the 
original  quantity.  Remove  from  the  fire,  cool  a  little,  add  the  sauce 
and  re-heat,  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  season  with  salt  and 
Mignonette  pepper.  Whisk  the  whole  over  the  fire,  and  incorporate 
the  butter  by  degrees.  This  sauce  must  on  no  account  be  allowed  to 
boil  when  once  the  eggs  are  added.  Pass  it  through  a  tammy-cloth. 
Return  to  another  stewpan,  and  whisk  again  over  hot  water  or  in  a 
bain-marie.  Add  the  chopped  parsley  and  a  few  chopped  tarragon 
leaves,  and  serve  as  directed. 

Time. — 35  to  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod.     Quantity,  \  a  pint. 

177.— BECHAMEL,    or    FRENCH    WHITE    SAUCE. 
(Fr. — Sauce  Bechamel.) 

Ingredients. — 14-  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter  (or  of  corresponding 
quantity  of  white  roux),  i£  pints  of  milk  (or  white  stock),  I  small  onion 
or  shallot,  i  small  bouquet-garni  (parsley,thyme,  bay-leaf),  10  pepper- 
corns, £  a  bay-leaf,  i  small  blade  of  mace,  seasoning. 

Method. — Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  with  the  onion  or  shallot,  the 
bouquet-garni,  peppercorns,  mace,  and  bay-leaf.  Melt  the  butter, 
stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  a  little  without  browning,  stir  in  the  hot  milk, 
etc.,  whisk  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  and  let  it  simmer  from  15  to  20 
minutes.  Strain  and  pass  through  a  sieve  or  tammy-cloth,  return  to 
the  stewpan,  season  lightly  with  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  %  a  pinch  of 
cayenne,  and  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Time. — 40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  /d.  with  milk.  Sufficient  for 
i  boiled  fowl. 

MACE  (Fr.  fleur  de  muscadc). — The  dried  aril  or  fleshy  net-like  membrane  which  surrounds  the  shell 
of  the  nutmeg,  which  when  ripe  is  of  a  bright  scarlet  colour.  Its  general  properties  are  the  same  as 
those  of  the  nutmeg,  and  it  possesses  an  extremely  aromatic  and  fragrant  odour,  and  a  hot  and  acrid 
taste.  Mace  is  prepared  by  separating  it  from  the  nut  when  gathered,  and  curing  it  by  pressure  and 
exposure  to  the  sun.  It  is  largely  used  as  a  condiment. 


WHITE    SAUCES   AND   SALAD   DRESSINGS  221 

178.— BECHAMEL,    or     FRENCH     WHITE     SAUCE. 
(Fr. — Sauce  Bechamel.)    (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  pints  of  equal  parts 
of  milk  and  white  stock,  i  small  onion  or  shallot,  i  boiiquet-garn 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  10  peppercorns,  %  a  bay-leaf,  i  small 
blade  of  mace,  seasoning. 

Method. — Put  the  milk  and  stock  in  the  saucepan  with  the  vegetables 
and  seasoning,  and  let  it  come  to  the  boil.  Melt  the  butter  in  another 
saucepan,  add  the  flour  and  cook  it,  without  browning,  pour  in  the  hot 
milk,  whisk  until  it  boils,  and  simmer  for  about  20  minutes.  Strain  the 
sauce  through  a  tammy-cloth,  or  fine  strainer,  warm  up,  and  use  as 
required. 

Time. — 40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  Sd.  per  pint.  Sufficient  for  2 
boiled  fowls. 

179.— BECHAMEL  SAUCE  WITHOUT  STOCK.    (Fr.- 
Sauce  Bechamel  maigre.) 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  small 
onion  stuck  with  a  clove,  a  few  parsley  leaves  tied  in  a  bunch,  £  a  bay- 
leaf,  i  small  blade  of  mace,  seasoning. 

Mode. — Boil  the  milk  with  the  vegetable  and    seasoning  for  -J-    an 
hour.     Molt   the  butter  in  another  saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook 
for  a  fe-w  minutes  without   allowing    it    to  brown,  add    the    milk    gra- 
dually, stir  until   it  boils,  simmer    for   about    jo   niinutrs.      Sir.iin    the 
-    required,    adding  seasoning   to   ta- 

Time. — 40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  4d.  per  pint.  Sufficient  for 
one  boiled  fowl,  about  one  pint. 

180.— BREAD  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  au  Pain.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  milk,   i   table-spoonful  of  cream,  2  ozs.  of 
freshly  made  breadcrumbs.  |  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  very  small  j 
ou ion,  i  clove,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  milk  and  onion,  with  the  clove  sturk  in  it,  into  a 
small  saneepan  and  bring  to  the  l>oil.  Add  the  l>read<  niml.s,  and 
simmer  gently  for  20  minutes,  then  remove  the  onion,  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  stir  in  the  butter  and  cream,  and  serve. 

Time. — 20  to  25  minutes.    Average  Cost,  about  ^d.    Quantity,  ±  a  pint. 

.—The  cream  may  be  omitted,  and,  if  preferred,  a  little  more  butter- 
riddel.      Flavouring  is  simply  a  matter  of  taste    (when  cloves  are  not  liked, 
mace  or  nutine"  n  av  be  substituted). 


222  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1 8 1. —BLONDE  SAUCE.      (Fr.  Sauce  Blonde.) 

Ingredients. — |-  of  a  pint  of  white  stock  (either  meat  or  fish),  |  a  pint 
of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon- juice,  i  oz.  of  butter,  f-  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes 
without  browning.  Add  the  stock  and  milk,  stir  until  boiling,  then  simmer 
gently  for  15  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Whisk  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  and  cream  well  together,  and  add  them  to  the  sauce  when  not  quite 
boiling.  Season  to  taste,  add  the  lemon- juice,  and  whisk  the  mixture 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  sauce  thickens  slightly,  but  do  not  allow 
it  to  boil.  Strain  and  use  with  fish  or  meat,  according  to  the  stock 
forming  the  base. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  in  addition  to  the 
stock. 

182.— CAPER   SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce   aux   Capres.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  melted  butter  (see  page  228)  i  tablespoonful  of 
capers,  either  cut  in  two  or  coarsely  chopped,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
vinegar  from  the  capers,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  melted  butter  as  directed,  add  to  it  the  capers, 
vinegar  and  seasoning,  and  use. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  4d. 
Quantity  %  pint. 

Note. — If  for  serving  with  boiled  mutton,  make  the  melted  butter  sauce 
with  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  was  boiled,  instead  of  plain  water. 


CAPERS  (Fr.:  Cdpres). — The  name  given  to  the  unopened  flower-buds  of  a  low  trailing  shrub  which 
grows  wild  among  the  crevices  of  the  rocks  of  Greece  and  in  Northern  Africa,  and  is  cultivated  in  the 
South  of  Europe.  It  was  introduced  into  Britain  as  early  as  1586.  After  being  pickled  in  vinegar 
and  salt,  they  are  imported  from  Sicily,  Italy,  and  the  south  of  France,  and  are  used  as  a  table-sauce 
chiefly  with  boiled  mutton.  The  flower-buds  of  the  nasturtium  are  frequently  pickled  and  used  as  a 
substitute  for  the  genuine  article. 


183.— CAPER  SAUCE,  SUBSTITUTE  FOR. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  melted  butter  (see  Sauces)  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cut  parsley,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Choose  dark-coloured  parsley,  or  boil  it  slowly  in  order  to 
destroy  some  of  its  colour,  and  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  but  do  not 
chop  it.  Have  the  melted  butter  ready  made,  according  to  directions 
given,  add  to  it  the  parsley,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Serve  as  a  substitute  for  caper  sauce. 

Average  Cost.— 2d.  or  3d. 


WHITE   SAUCES  AND    SALAD    DRESSINGS         223 

184.— CELERY    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Celeri.) 
(For  Boiled  Turkey  and  Fowls.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  whit ;  stock,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  \\  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  2  sticks  of  celery 
(white  part  only),  a  blade  of  mace,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  celery,  cut  it  into  short  pieces,  cover  with  cold 
water,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  strain.  Put  the  stock  and  mace  into  a 
stewpan,  add  the  celery,  simmer  until  tender  (45  to  60  minutes), 
then  rub  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Melt  the  butter  in  the  stewpan, 
stir  in  the  flour,  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  milk,  and  celery 
puree,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Add  seasoning  to  taste,  stir  in  the 
cream  and  use  as  required. 

Average  Cost. —  is.  per  pint.  Sufficient  for  a  boiled  turkey  or  two 
fowls. 


185.— CELERY  SAUCE.         (Fr.— Sauce   Celeri.) 
(A  more  simple  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter  (see  page  228)  i  head  of 
celery  (the  white  part  only),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  celery  and  chop  it  coarsely.  Put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan with  barely  sufficient  water  to  cover  it,  and  simmer  for  £  an  hour. 
Stir  occasionally  as  the  water  evaporates  and  the  celery  becomes  rather 
dry.  Add  the  melted  butter,  stir  until  it  boils,  season  to  taste,  and 
serve. 

Time. — i   hour.     Average  Cost,   5d.     Sufficient  for  a  boiled  turkey. 


186.— CHAUD-FROID     SAUCE     (WHITE). 

(Fr. — Sauce  Chaud-Froid  Blanche.)     (Cold 
Sauce  for  masking  Chicken,  Cutlets,    etc.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce,  £  of  a  pint  of  aspic  jelly, 
£  of  a  pint  of  cream,  5  or  6  sheets  of  French  gelatine,  i  teaspoonful 
of  chilli  vinegar  or  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  the  aspic  jelly,  and  mix  with  the 
hot  sauce.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  then  add  the  vinegar  or 
lemon-juice,  simmer  for  3  or  4  minutes,  and  strain  or  pass  through  a 
tammy-cloth.  When  cool  add  the  cream,  and  use  as  required,  when 
just  on  the  point  of  setting. 

Time. — 25  to  35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  for  this  quantity. 


224  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Note. — Brown  Chaud-Froid  sauce  may  also  be  made  by  substituting  equal 
quantities  of  good  brown  sauce  and  tomato  sauce  for  the  Bechamel.  Green 
Chaud-Froid  is  composed  of  Bechamel  and  a  few  drops  of  spinach  greening, 
and  pink  Chaud-Froid  is  made  by  adding  a  few  drops  of  carmine  to  the 
Bechamel  sauce.  The  aspic  jelly  and  gelatine  are  added  to  give  brightness 
and  stiffness  to  the  sauces. 

187.— CHESTNUT  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  aux  de   Mat- 
rons.)     (For  Chicken  or  Turkey.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  white  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk, 
£  a  Ib.  of  chestnuts,  a  thinly  cut  strip  of  lemon-rind,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  tops  off  the  chestnuts  and  roast  or  bake  them  for 
about  20  minutes.  Remove  the  outer  and  inner  skins,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  the  stock  and  lemon-rind,  and  let  them  simmer  until 
tender  (about  %  hour).  Rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  return  to  the  sauce- 
pan, add  seasoning  to  taste,  and  re-heat.  Stir  in  the  cream,  and  use  as 
required.^  If  milk  is  used,  mix  with  it  a  teaspoonful  of  cornflour  or 
ordinary  flour,  stir  it  into  the  puree  when  boiling,  and  simmer  for  5 
minutes  to  cook  the  flour.  Season  with  salt  and  a  tiny  pinch  of 
cayenne. 

Time. — \\  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  pint  with  cream. 
Sufficient  for  a  boiled  turkey. 

Note. — Brown  chestnut  sauce  may  be  made  by  substituting  •£  a  pint  of 
brown  sauce  and  a  £  of  a  pint  of  brown  stock  for  the  white  stock  and  cream. 

188.— CREAM    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    a    la    Creme.) 
(For  Sweetbreads,  Chickens,  Soles.) 

Ingredients. — 3  tablcspoonfuls  of  Bechamel  sauce,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  except  the  lemon  juice  into  a  small 
saucepan,  which  must  be  placed  either  in  a  bain-marie  or  in  a  larger 
shallow  pan,  half  full  of  boiling  water.  Stir  the  mixture  until  it 
acquires  the  consistency  of  thick  cream,  then  pass  through  a  tammy- 
cloth,  reheat,  add  the  lemon  juice,  and  use. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d. 

189.— CUCUMBER   SAUCE    (Hot).     (Fr.— Sauce   aux 
Concombres  [Chaude].) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  page  220)  i  cucumber,  i 
oz.  of  butter,  a  little  spinach  greening,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  cucumber,  cut  into  thick  slices,  and  remove  the 
seeds.  Melf.  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  cucumber,  cover 


WHITE   SAUCES  AND   SALAD   DRESSINGS        225 

closely,  and  let  it  steam  in  the  butter  until  tender  (about  30  minutes \ 
stirring  occasionally.  When  sufficiently  cooked,  add  the  sauce, 
lemon-juice,  seasoning,  and  spinach  greening.  Cook  two  or  three 
minutes,  pass  through  a  sieve  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  for  this  quantity. 

190.— DUTCH    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Hollandaise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  i  shallot,  peeled  and  chopped, 
i  bay-leaf,  4  white  peppercorns  crushed,  i  gill  of  white  sauce,  the  yolks 
of  2  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  vinegar  (French  wine  vinegar  in  preference  to 
malt  vinegar)  with  the  shallot,  bay-leaf  and  peppercorns  in  a  stcwpan, 
and  reduce  to  \  its  original  quantity  ;  add  the  white  sauce,  let  it  boil, 
remove  the  bay-leaf,  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs.  When  it  begins  to 
thicken  remove  the  preparation  from  the  fire  and  strain  into  another 
stcwpan.  Re-heat  (taking  great  care  that  the  sauce  does  not  curdle  \ 
and  whisk  in  the  butter  by  degrees.  Add  the  lemon-juice  and  enough 
salt  to  taste,  and  serve  with  boiled  fish,  artichokes,  asparagus,  etc. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  ;d. 

I9i._ DUTCH    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Hollandaise.) 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — The  yolks  of  3  eggs,  2  ozs.  butter,  I  gill  Bechamel  sauce, 
|  of  a  gill  of  stock,  the  juice  of  -\  a  lemon,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  sauce  hot,  remove  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the 
stove,  and  whisk  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  stock  and  lemon-juice.  Cook 
over  a  slow  fire,  then  add  the  butter  in  small  pieces  oft"  the  fire. 
Season,  strain,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve.  The  sauce  must  be  care- 
fully cooked,  and  on  no  account  placed  on  the  fire  after  the  butter 
is  added,  or  it  will  oil. 

Time.     20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d. 

THE  LEMON  (Fr.:  Citron). — This  well-known  fruit  of  the  lemon  tree.  Citrus  7,»mon?/m,  is   a  native  of 
tin;  tropi'  al  parts  of  A>ia,  and  was    probably    introduced    into  south-western  Fnr«pe  by    tin 
It    is   allied    to    the   citron    and   the   orange,  but  is  more  hardy   than   the  latter.      The  lemon   is 
!  into   this   country   chieflv    from    Spain,    Portugal,    Si- ily,    and    the    A/ores.       From    the 
lemon  lime-juice  is  obtained,  whirh  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  lemon  i 
i-  al-><«  laro'lv  employed  in  calico  printing  to  discharge  colours.     The  anti-v-orbutir  pr«p 
limc-jiiii  r  are  of  high  value,  and  lime-juice  is  extensively  used  in  the  Navy  and  the  Merchant   5 
Its  constituents  are  sugar,  virrtablr.    albuminous  and  mineral    matter,   including   p.ta->li 
acid  and  the  oil  of  /cm-m  are  obtained  by  pressure  and  distillation  from  the  fr«->h  pod  ;    th.-  latt.-r  i-  a 
v<.i.itilc  ml  «f   a  yrllow  or  greenish  colour,  much  used  in  perfumery,  medi-  in.il  prcp.ir.ition>,  and    f-r 
various  domestic  purposes.      Lemon-peel  is  prepared  by  drying  the  rind,  and  preserving  it  wit:, 

192.— FRENCH    ONION    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Sou- 
bise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Spanish  onions,  i  gill  of  white  stock,  £  a  pint  of  Be- 
chamel sauce,  white  pepper,  salt,  a  pinch  of  white  sugar 

I 


226  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  parboil  them  in  salted  water,  strain  and 
chop  very  finely.  Return  to  the  saucepan,  stir  over  the  fire  until 
all  moisture  is  absorbed,  then  add  the  stock  and  cook  until  tender. 
Now  add  the  sauce,  reduce  until  the  desired  consistency  is  acquired, 
add  the  seasoning,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  7d. 

PEPPER  (Fr.  Poivre). — This  well-known  aromatic  spice  is  a  native  of  the  East  Indies,  and  from  thence 
has  been  introduced  into  the  West  Indian  Islands,  and  other  tropical  parts.  The  most  esteemed 
varieties  are  those  of  Sumatra,  J  ava,  and  Malacca.  The  pepper  plant  belongs  to  the  natural  order 
Piperaceae,  its  most  important  species  being  Piper  nigrum,  the  black  pepper  of  commerce.  It  is 
a  climbing  shrub,  with  alternate,  heart-shape  leathery  leaves,  and  little  globular  berries,  about  the 
size  of  a  currant,  at  first  green,  but  when  ripe  of  a  bright-red  colour.  The  peppercorns  are  gathered 
when  red  and  exposed  to  the  sun,  when  they  change  to  a  black  hue.  White  Pepper  is  obtained 
from  the  finest  of  the  berries,  which  are  plucked  when  fully  ripe,  steeped  in  lime-water,  and  sub- 
jected to  a  process  of  rubbing,  which  removes  the  outer  coat.  It  is  less  acrid  than  the  ordinary  black 
pepper,  to  which  it  is  considered  to  be  superior,  for  only  the  finest  berries  will  bear  such  special  pre- 
paration. 

193.— GERMAN    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Allemande.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  good  white  stock,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  the  mixture 
for  a  few  minutes  without  allowing  it  to  brown,  then  put  in  the  stock 
and  stir  until  it  boils.  Let  it  simmer  gently  for  \  an  hour,  skim  off 
any  butter  that  may  be  floating  on  the  top,  and  season  to  taste.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  cream  together,  add  them  to  the  sauce,  and 
cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes  until  the  sauce  thickens,  but  it  must  not 
boil,  or  the  eggs  may  curdle.  Add  the  lemon,  strain,  or  pass  through 
a  tammy-cloth,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 40  to  60  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is. 

THE  NUTMEG  (Fr. :  Muscade)  is  a  native  of  the  tropics,  and  is  largely  cultivated  in  the  Molucca 
Islands,  especially  in  the  Banda  group.  The  Dutch,  when  supreme  in  the  East,  sought  to  obtain  a 
monopoly  of  this  spice,  by  confining  the  growth  of  the  nutmeg  to  the  Island  of  Great  Banda.  It 
is  now  cultivated  in  Java.  Sumatra,  Penang,  Singapore,  Southern  India,  Madagascar,  Brazil,  and  the 
West  Indies.  The  nutmeg  tree,  which  somewhat  resembles  the  pear-tree  in  the  beauty  of  its 
form,  foliage,  and  blossom,  grows  to  the  height  of  about  25  feet,  and  begins  to  bear  fruit  in  its 
ninth  year,  yielding  about  8  Ib.  The  nut  is  oval  in  shape,  very  hard,  and  of  a  dark-brown 
colour.  Previous  to  exportation,  the  fruit  is  smoke-dried  until  the  nut  rattles  in  the  shell,  when  it  is 
extracted.  There  are  various  species  of  nutmegs,  the  chief  being  Myristica  fragrans,  which  yields  the 
chief  supply,  and  is  the  most  aromatic  and  delicate  in  its  flavour  ;  and  Myristica  faiua,  with  a  longer 
kernel  of  a  pale  colour,  but  less  aromatic.  The  nutmeg  is  largely  used  as  a  condiment,  and  in  medicine 
as  a  stimulant  and  carminative.  In  large  quantities  it  acts  as  a  narcotic.  From  the  nutmeg  a  fixed 
and  a  volatile  oil  are  obtained. 

194.— GREEN    MOUSSELINE    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce 
Mousseline  Verte.) 

Ingredients. — \  pint  of  stiff  Mayonnaise  sauce,  \  a  teaspoonful  made 
English  mustard,  £  gill  Bechamel  sauce,  \  gill  of  cream,  a  few  leaves 
of  tarragon  and  chervil  i  teaspoonful  of  spinach  greening,  a 
pinch  of  cayenne  or  paprika  pepper,  a  pinch  of  salt,  £  a  lemon. 


WHITE   SAUCES    AND  SALAD    DRESSINGS 

Method. — Mix  the  Mayonnaise  sauce,  mustard,  and  cream  in  a  basin  ; 
chop  the  tarragon  and  chervil  leaves  and  put  them  with  the  greening 
into  the  Bechamel  sauce,  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  and  pass  through 
a  fine  tammy-cloth.  Let  the  preparation  cool,  and  incorporate  it  with 
the  cold  sauce.  Season  to  taste  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
finish  by  working  in  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon.  Serve  cold. 

Time,     i  hour. — Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  for  this  quantity. 

CAYENNE  (Fr. :  Poivre  de  Cayenne). — The  name  given  to  the  powder  prepared  from  several  varieties 
of  the  capsicum,  natives  of  the  East  and  West  Indies,  and  other  hot  climates.  The  pods  of  the  capsi- 
cum, which  are  of  a  handsome  scarlet,  yellow,  or  greenish  colour,  are  extremely  pungent  to  the  t. i-.tr, 
and  in  the  green  state  are  used  as  a  pickle.  When  ripe,  the  pods  are  ground  into  Cuv.'iiue  pepper, 

-t  acrid  and  stimulating  of  the  spices.     The  fruit  of  various  species  of  the  capsicin: 
under  the  name  of  Chilies,  the  Mexican  name  for  the  capsicum  ;   the  capsicums  preserved  i:    \ 
add  which  is  called  "  Chili  Vinegar."     Capsicum  is  used  in  medicine  chiefly  in  the  form  of  a  tincture. 

nulantor  digestive,  and  as  a  remedy  for  relaxed  throats.     Cayenne  judiciously  used  is  a  valu- 
able condiment  for  improving  the  flavour  of  dishes. 

195.— HORSERADISH  SAUCE  OR  CREAM.  (Hot.) 
(Fr.— Creme  de  Raifort  [Chaude].) 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  pint  of  cream,  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  finely-grated  horseradish,  i  teaspoonful  of  vinegar, i  pinch 
of  salt,  4  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar. 

Method. — Blend  the    flour    with  the    butter,    boil  the    cream,  and 
add  it  to  the  butter  and  flour  ;  stir  over  the  fire,  and  boil  for  5  mi 
taking  great  care  not  to  let  it  curdle.     Pass  through  a  tammy-cloth  or 
napkin.    Add  the  horseradish,  salt  and  vimr.ar,  and  mix  va  11. 
hot  with  boiled  fish,  or  roast  meat,  etc. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s. 

THF  HORSERADISH  (Fr. :  /.  ruciform plant,  common  to  most  of  the  template  countries 

e.    It  grows  abundantly  in  Britain,  to  win  h.  h<>we\ . 

.•••!.     It  i-  a  well-known  condiment,  with  a  pungent  taste  and  odour 

d  as  a  stomachic  and  diuretic  medicine,  and  externally  as  a  blister.     The  root  of  aconite 
e  to  that  of  the  horseradish  ;  care  should,  therefore,  be  taken  to  prevent  acci- 
dents arising  from  mistaking  the  two  roots.     In  the  case  of  aconite,  the  root  externally  is  of  a  dark- 
brown  colour,    tapering  in  -  ,t    of    the  horseradish    has 

!  taste  are  at  first  pungent  and  acrid,  and  its  external  . 

a  dirty  white.  .  is  so  great  that  even  when 

for  the  tone,  it  r.ipidly  spoils  by  exposure  to  the  air.     For  the  same  reason  the  root  should 
:  ved  by  drying,  but  be  kept  root-:  ind. 

196.— HORSERADISH  SAUCE  (Hot).  (Fr.— Sauce 
Raifort  [Chaude].)  (A  more  Economical 
Method.) 

Ingredients.— 2    tablespoonfuls   of    grated   horseradish,   £   a   pint   of 
rnel  sauce,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  %  a  teaspoonful  of 
\ir,  cayenne,  and  salt. 

Method. — Boil  up  the  sauce,  moisten  the  horseradish  with  the  vinegar, 
add  it  to  the  sauce  with  the  other  in  Make  the  sauce  thor- 

\  hot,  but  do  not  boil,  after  the  \  added, or  it  will  curdle. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d. 


228  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

197.— HORSERADISH  SAUCE  (Cold).        (Fr.—  Sauce 
Raifort  [Froide].) 

Ingredients. — \  gill  of  wine  vinegar,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  i  oz.  of  grated 
horseradish,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
i  tablespoonful  of  cream. 

Method. — Remove  the  yolks  from  the  whites  of  the  hard-boiled  eggs, 
put  them  in  a  basin,  work  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  quite  smooth, 
then  add  the  vinegar  gradually,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  it  becomes 
creamy.  Add  the  grated  horseradish,  sugar,  salt,  and  lastly  the  cream, 
stir  a  little  longer,  and  serve  in  a  sauceboat,  or  as  directed. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  7d. 

198.— HORSERADISH  SAUCE  (Cold).        (Fr.— Sauce 
Raifort  [Froide].)     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i^  ozs.  of  grated  horseradish,  i  gill  of  thick  cream,  i 
tablespoonful  of  white  wine  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
a  little  powdered  mustard,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  horseradish  in  a  basin,  add  the  sugar,  mustard, 
salt  and  pepper  :  moisten  with  vinegar,  stir  in  the  cream  gradually. 
Serve  cold, 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d. 
I99.--LOBSTER    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Homard.) 

Ingredients. — £  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce,  a  small  hen  lobster,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  seasoning. 

Method. — Remove  the  coral  from  the  lobster,  wash  it  and  pound  it 
with  the  butter,  and  rub  all  through  a  hair  sieve.  Remove  the  meat 
from  the  tail  and  claws  of  the  lobster,  and  cut  it  into  small  neat  pieces. 
Warm  the  Bechamel  sauce,  add  the  coral-butter,  mix  well,  then  add 
the  pieces  of  lobster,  warm  thoroughly,  season,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  4d.  without  the  lobster. 

200.— MAITRE  D' HOTEL  SAUCE.  (Fr.— Sauce  Maitre 
d'  Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — |  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  the  juice  of 
\  a  lemon,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  seasoning. 

Method. — Put  the  Bechamel  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water,  stir 
until  it  boils,  reduce  well,  then  add  the  butter  a  little  at  a  time,  and 


WHITE    SAUCES   AND   SALAD   DRESSINGS         229 

stir  well.     Strain  the  sauce  into  another  saucepan,  add  the  parsley, 
lemon- juice,  and  seasoning,  reheat  and  serve. 

Time. — 25  to  35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  for  this  quantity. 

THE  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  (Fr.). — The  house-steward  is  synonymous  with  the  maitre  d'hotel  of  Franco, 
and  was  called  among  the  ancient  Romans  procurator,  or  major  domo.  In  large  households  in  KOIIH-, 
the  slaves,  when  they  had  procured  the  various  articles  required  for  the  repasts  of  the  day,  returned 
to  the  spacious  kitchen,  with  their  loads  of  meat,  game,  fish,  vegetables  and  fruit.  Each  one  pl.uvd 
his  basket  at  the  feet  of  the  major  domo,  who  examined  its  contents,  and  registered  them  on  his  t.iMrts. 
Provisions  which  needed  no  special  preparation  were  then  stored  in  a  pantry  near  to  the  dining- 
room,  the  other  comestibles  being  assigned  to  the  more  immediate  care  of  the  cook. 

2oi.— MAYONNAISE  SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce    Mayon- 
naise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  tcaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  £  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  i  tablespoonful  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  about  i  pint  of  best  salad  oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream. 

Method. — Put  the  yolks  into  a  basin,  add  the  mustard,  salt  and 
pepper,  stir  quickly  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Add  the  oil,  first  drop  by  drop 
and  afterwards  more  quickly,  and  at  intervals  a  few  drops  of  the 
vinegar  By  stirring  well,  the  mixture  should  become  the  consistency 
of  very  thick  cream.  Lastly,  add  the  cream,  stirring  all  the  while. 
A  little  cold  water  may  be  added  if  the  sauce  is  found  to  be  too  thick. 

In  hot  weather,  the  basin  in  which  the  Mayonnaise  is  made  should  be 
placed  in  a  vessel  of  crushed  ice. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 

202.— MELTED    BUTTER.     (Fr.— Sauce   au    Beurre.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  water,  i  oz.  of  butter,  J  of  an  oz.  of  Hour, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir  in  the  Hour  and  cook 
tor  j  or  3  minutes.  The  water  now  to  be  added  must  not  be  quite 
boiling,  but  it  may  be  hot,  and  as  the  sauce  has  to  be  constantly  stirred 
until  it  boils  to  incorporate  the  substances  contained  in  it,  considerable 
time  is  saved  by  adding  warm  or  hot  water,  instead  of  cold.  Bring  to 
the  boil,  and  simmer  for  a  few  minute  a,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

203.— MELTED   BUTTER.     (Fr.— Sauce   au   Beurre.) 
(An  Old-fashioned  Method.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  hot  water,  £  oz.  of  fresh  butter,  i  drssert- 
spoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pep; 

Method.—  Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water  in  a  basin, 
add  the  hot  water  gradually,  stirring  all  the  time.      Put  it  into  a  I 
pan,  bring  to  the  boil,  simmer  for  ID  minutes,  then  add  the  salt  and 
pepper,  stir  in  the  butter,  and  serve. 

Time.      About  i;  minuter.      Average  Cost,  ild. 


23o  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

204.— NORMANDY  SAUCE.     (Fr.—  Sauce  Normande.) 

Ingredients. — f  pint  white  stock,  J  pint  fish  stock  (No.  5),  2  oz. 
butter,  I  oz.  flour,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  lemon  juice. 

Method. — Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  i  oz.  of  flour,  stir 
sufficiently  long  to  cook  the  flour,  moisten  with  the  stock,  and  allow  it 
to  boil  for  10  minutes.  Skim  well,  and  finish  with  a  liaison  or  bind- 
ing of  2  yolks  of  eggs.  Stir  in  bit  by  bit  i  oz.  of  butter^  and  a  few 
drops  of  lemon-juice.  Pass  through  a  fine  strainer  or  tammy-cloth,  and 
use  as  directed. 

Time. — 10    minutes.     Probable    Cost,   is.     Sufficient  for  I  large  dish. 

205.— ONION  SAUCE.     (Fr. — Sauce  aux  Oigrfons.) 

Ingredients. — |  a  pint  of  milk,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  £•  oz.  of  flour,  2  onions  (about  %  a  lb.),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  put  them  into  cold  water,  bring  to  the 
boil,  and  strain.  Return  to  the  saucepan  with  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  and  boil  until  tender  (about 
i  hour).  When  the  onions  are  sufficiently  cooked  they  must  be  well 
drained  and  chopped  coarsely.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir 
in  the  flour  and  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  milk  and  stir  until 
it  boils.  Add  the  onion  to  it,  season  to  taste,  simmer  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  stir  in  the  cream,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1-£  to  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  $d. 


206.— PARSLEY    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    de    Persil.) 
(For  Boiled  Fowl,  Veal,  Calf's  Head,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  has  been  cooked, 
%  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  for 
2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  liquor  and  milk,  and  stir  until  it  boils. 
Simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  season  to  taste,  add  the  parsley,  and  use  as 
required.  If  the  parsley  is  allowed  to  boil  in  the  sauce  it  will  lose 
some  of  its  green  colour. 

Time. — 20  to  25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

PARSLEY  (Fr. :  Persil). — The  common  parsley  is  a  well-known  garden  vegetable,  and  has  long  been 
cultivated  for  seasoning  and  garnishing  dishes,  and  for  flavouring  soups.  The  leaf-stalks  of  one  variety 
of  parsley,  the  celery-leaved,  are  blanched  and  eaten  like  celery.  Parsley  was  known  to  the 
ancient  Greeks,  reference  being  made  to  it  in  the  Iliad,  and  among  the  Romans  it  was  used  as  a  symbol 
of  mourning,  and  placed  on  the  tables  at  funeral  feasts.  The  Carthagenians  found  it  in  Sardinia, 
and  introduced  the  herb  to  the  inhabitants  of  Marseilles.  There  are  various  quaint  superstition! 
connected  with  parsley,  some  of  which  survive  to  the  present  day  in  England  and  Scotland. 


WHITE   SAUCES   AND   SALAD    DRESSINGS          _>.u 
207.— POULETTE    SAUCE.     (Fr.—  Sauce    Poulette.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce,  i  raw  yolk  of  egg,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  yolk  of  the  egg  and  the  cream  together.  Have  the 
sauce  nearly  boiling  in  a  saucepan,  pour  in  the  egg  and  cream,  and  stir 
for  a  few  minutes,  but  the  preparation  must  not  boil,  or  the  egg 
may  curdle.  Add  the  parsley  and  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and 
serve. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d. 

208.—  SALAD  DRESSING  (French).     (Fr.— Sauce  Re- 
moulade.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  salad  oil,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar, 
i  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  i  yolk  of  egg,  a  few  leaves  of  tarragon 
parsley  and  chives,  a  pinch  of  castor  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Blanch  the  herbs,  drain,  and  chop  finely.  Put  the  yolk  of 
egg  into  a  basin,  add  the  seasoning,  work  in  the  oil  and  vinegar,  stirring 
the  ingredients  vigorously  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Then  add  the  herbs, 
mustard,  and  sugar. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  pd.  for  this  quantity. 

TARRAGON  (Fr.  :E$tragon). — The  leaves  of  this  aromatic  plant,  known  to  botanists  as  Artemisia 
dracunculus,  are  much  used  in  France  as  a  flavouring  ingredient  for  salads.  Frotn  it  is  made 

which  the  French  employ  to  mix  thfir  mu^t.ird.  It  is  also  used  as  a  pickle,  and  as  a  flavour 
for  tj^h-sauces.  From  one  species  of  the  genus  Artemisia,  which  grows  in  Swit/.-rl.uul.  th«-  1  itt.-r 
aromatic  cordial,  absinthe,  is  prepared.  The  common  wormwood.  Artemisia  absinikum,  was  known 
to  the  Greeks,  who  valued  it  as  a  medicinal  plant. 

209.— SALAD  DRESSING  (made  without  oil.) 

Ingredients. — 2  hard-boiled  eggs,  4  i.il.lrspoonfuls  of  cream,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  mixed  mustard,  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
each  of  pepper,  salt,  and  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Pound  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  in  a  mortar,  then  put  them 
basin,  and  add  the  mustard,  salt,  pepper  and  sugar,  add  the 
cream  gradually,    and    stir  vigorously  until     it  beconv  thick. 

Add  the  vinegar  drop  by  drop  just  at  the  last. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from  6d.   to 

210.  -SORREL    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    a  1'Oseille.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  White  Sauce  (see  page  233)  a  good  hand- 
ful of  sorrel,  salt  and  pepper. 


232  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Wash  and  pick  the  sorrel,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  without  any 
water,  and  cook  until  tender.  Chop  finely,  and  rub  through  a  hair 
sieve.  Have  the  sauce  boiling  in  a  saucepan,  add  to  it  the  puree,  stir 
and  cook  for  3  or  4  minutes,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 50  to  60  minutes.     Average  Cost.  4d. 

2ii.— SOUBISE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Soubise.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  Bechamel  Sauce,  or  other  good  white  sauce, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  white  stock,  2  Spanish  onions,  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  and  parboil  the  onions  in  salted  water,  then  drain  well 
and  chop  them  finely.  Put  the  prepared  onions  and  stock  into  a  stew- 
pan,  cover  closely,  cook  slowly  until  reduced  to  a  pulp,  and  add  the 
sauce.  Simmer  gently  until  reduced  to  the  right  consistency,  then 
add  a  pinch  of  sugar,  season  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d. 

212. — SUPREME    SAUCE.     (Fr. — Sauce   Supreme.) 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i%  pints  of  chicken  stock, 
i  small  onion,  i  clove,  £  a  bay-leaf,  i£  ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  i  tablespoon- 
ful  cream,  i  yolk  of  egg,  the  juice  of  \  a  lemon. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  cook  well 
over  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  brown,  then  add  stock,  onion,  clove,  and 
bay-leaf.  Stir  until  boiling,  simmer  for  15  minutes,  and  skim  well. 
Now  work  in  the  fresh  butter,  cream,  and  yolk  of  egg,  cook  for  3 
minutes,  but  do  not  let  the  sauce  boil.  Add  the  lemon-juice,  pass  the 
sauce  through  a  tammy-cloth,  warm,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  exclusive  of  the  stock. 

213.— TARTARS    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Tartare.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  Mayonnaise  sauce,  i  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  gherkin  or  capers,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  very  finely-chopped  shal- 
lot (this  may  be  omitted). 

Method. — Stir  the  gherkin  and  onion  lightly  into  the  mayonnaise,  and 
use  as  required. 

Time. — 25   minutes  altogether.     Average  Cost,   $d.   to  ;d. 

214.— TOURNEE  SAUCE.    (Fr.— Sauce  Tournee.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  white  stock,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i|  ozs.  of  flour, 
6  spring  onions,  6  small  mushrooms  coarsely-chopped,  a  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook 


WHITE   SAUCES   AND   SALAD    DRESSINGS 

for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  and  put  in  the  stock.  Add  the 
white  part  of  the  onions,  the  bouquet-garni,  mushrooms,  and  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes,  then  strain  and  use  as 
required. 

Tim3. — About  4-  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 


215.— VALOIS  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  Valois.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  strong  chicken  stock,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  dessertspoonfuls  of  white  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  2  shallots  finely-chopped,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  stock  gently  until  reduced  to  a  quarter  of  the 
original  quantity.  Put  the  vinegar  and  shallots  into  another  saucepan, 
simmer  gently  until  considerably  reduced,  and  add  the  prepared 
stock.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  stir  them  into  the  contents  of 
the  saucepan  when  just  below  boiling  point,  whisk  until  the  preparation 
thickens,  and  season  to  taste.  Add  the  butter  bit  by  bit,  whisking 
between  each  addition,  and  just  before  serving  stir  in  the  par 

Time. — Altogether,  about  i£  hours.  Averaje  Cost,  /d.,  exclusive  of 
the  stock. 

216.—  VELOUTE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Veloute.) 

Ingredients. — 1\  ozs.  butter,  i  oz.  of  sifted  flour,  i  pint  of  good  white 
sto.k,  i  a  bay  leaf,  8  peppercorns. 

Method. — Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook 
a  little  without  browning,  moisten  with  the  stock,  add  the  Ki 
and  peppercorns,  stir  and  simmer  slowly  for  \  an  hour,  take  olf  the 
scum,  press  through  a  tammy-cloth  or  napkin,  return  to  the  stew- 
pan,  and  finish  with  the  remainder  of  the  butter,  or  a  little  thick  cream. 
Use  as  required. 

Time. — 50  to  60  minutes.    Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

-The  st«»ck  from  which  \Yl.mU  uld   be  made  is  prepared 

from  \val  bone-,  chicken  bones,  and  trimming,  a  flavouring  of  carrot,  onion, 
bonquet-i^irni.   the  needful  amount  ol  sea>omn^.   and  an  appropriate 
-.plant  it y  ot  water,  i.e.  I  quart  ot  water  to  li  Ibs.  ot  meat  and  vegetables. 

217.— VELOUTE  OR  VELVET  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce 
VeloutS.)    (Another  method.) 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  flour,   i£  ozs.  of  butter,   i  pint  of  veal  stock, 
ill  of  mushroom  liquor,  \  a  gill  of  cream,  i  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyni-  peppercorns,  silt,  nulnu-g,  ami  lemon-juice, 


234  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  over  the  fire  for  a 
few  minutes,  but  do  not  let  the  flour  brown.  Add  stock,  mushroom 
liquor,  bouquet-garni,  and  crushed  peppercorns.  Boil  slowly  for 
20  minutes,  skim  well.  Pass  through  a  tammy-cloth,  warm  up,  and 
just  before  serving  add  cream,  seasoning,  and  lemon-juice. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

2 1 8.— VINAIGRETTE    SAUCE.       (Fr.—  Sauce    Vinai- 
grette.)     (For    Asparagus,     Calf's    Heac 
Brains,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tarn 
vinegar,  %  a  teaspoonful  each  of  finely-chopped  gherkin,  shallot  ai 
parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  all  well  together,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  5  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  or  5d. 

219.— WHITE  ITALIAN  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — J  of  a  pint  of  good  white  stock,  f-  of  a  pint  of  Bechai 
sauce,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
finely-chopped  fresh  button  mushrooms,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  shallot  finely  chopped,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  mushrooms  and 
shallot,  and  fry  without  browning  for  about  10  minutes.  Add  the  stock, 
cover  closely,  and  simmer  until  reduced  to  about  \  the  original  quantity. 
Put  in  the  Bechamel  sauce  and  boil  up,  then  add  seasoning  to  taste, 
the  chopped  parsley  and  cream,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 40  to  50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

220.— WHITE  MUSHROOM  SAUCE.  (Fr.— Sauce  aux 
Champignons  [Blanche].) 

Ingredients. — 1£  gills  of  Bechamel  sauce,  i-|  gills  of  veal  stock,  8  or  10 
preserved  mushrooms,  £  a  gill  of  the  liquor,  \  a  gill  of  Chablis,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon- juice,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream. 

Method. — Boil  the  stock  and  Bechamel  together  until  reduced  to 
half  the  original  quantity.  Add  the  mushrooms  sliced,  the  liquor, 
lemon- juice,  and  wine.  Boil  again,  skim,  season,  and  add  the  cream. 

Time. — 20  to  25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d. 

221.— WHITE  SAUCE  FOR  VEGETABLES,  VEAL, 
RABBIT,  AND  POULTRY.  (Fr.— Sauce 
Blanche.) 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  \  a  gill 
of  white  stock,  \  a  bay-leaf,  salt  and  white  pepper. 


WHITE  SAUCES   AND   SALAD   DRESSINGS          235 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and 
cook  for  a  few  minutes  without  allowing  the  flour  to  brown.  Dilute 
with  the  milk,  stir  till  it  boils,  then  add  the  stock  and  bay-leaf,  and 
let  simmer  for  at  least  10  minutes.  Remove  the  bay-leaf,  season  to 
taste,  and  strain. 

Time. — 25  to  35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d. 


222.— WHITE  SAUCE  WITHOUT  STOCK. 

(Fr.— Sauce   Blanche.)     (For     Vegetables 
Meat,  Poultry,  etc.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  pint  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream  (this  may  be 
omitted),  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  small  carrot,  i  small  onion, 
i  strip  of  celery,  i  bay-leaf,  salt,  10  peppercorns. 

Method. — Cut  the  carrot  and  celery  into  rather  large  pieces,  put 
them  with  the  milk,  onion,  and  bay-leaf  into  a  saucepan,  and 
simmer  gently  for  about  £  an  hour.  If  the  milk  reduces  in  simmering, 
add  more  to  make  up  the  original  quantity.  Melt  the  butter  in  another 
saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  for  7  or  8  minutes  without  browning. 
Let  this  roux  cool  slightly,  then  add  to  it  the  milk  and  vegetables,  and 
whisk  briskly  until  it  boils.  Simmer  for  10  minutes,  strain  through  a 
tammy-cloth,  or  rub  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  re-heat,  season  to 
add  the  cream,  and  use. 

Time. — About  50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

—For   white    sauces     made   with   stock,    see     Bechamel. 
Veloute.    page  232,  and  Allemande,  page  219. 


223.— WHITE    SAUCE    FOR    VEGETABLES,    MEAT, 
POULTRY,   OR  FISH.     (Economical.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of  either  water,  fish   - 
or  liquor  in  which  moat  or  poultry  has  been  boiled,   i£  ozs.  butter, 
.  of  flour,  mace  or  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour  and  cook 

minutes,  add  the  milk  and  stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  then  simmer 

gnu ly  for  10  minutes.     Season  to  taste,  add  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and 

.is  required. 

Time. — 25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

-Onion  cooked  and   chopped   n  ml  parsley  chopped  should  be  added 

':<lc*.   a    few   minutes 
;-ut  the  sauce  n, 


236  RECIPES  FOR  BROWN  SAUCES 

224.— ASPIC  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — 1£  gills  of  aspic  jelly,  i  gill  of  double  cream,  a  lea- 
spoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of  white  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  castor 
sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  cream  into  a  basin,  stir  it  with  a  whisk,  and  grad- 
ually add  the  aspic,  which  must  be  liquid,  and  add  the  lemon-juice  and 
seasoning,  pass  through  a  tammy  or  fine  strainer,  and  use  to  mark 
chickens,  etc. 

Brown  Sauces. 

225.— BACON  SAUCE.     (Fr—  Sauce  au  Lard  Fume.) 

Ingredients. — |-  a  Ib.  of  ham  or  bacon  cut  into  dice,  i  small  onion 
finely-chopped,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar. 
\  a  pint  of  water,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Fry  the  bacon  slightly,  add  the  onion,  sprinkle  in  the  flour, 
and  fry  slowly  until  lightly  browned.  Season  to  taste,  add  the  vinegar 
and  water,  stir  until  boiling,  then  pour  over  the  previously  cooked 
potatoes,  and  serve  as  an  accompaniment  with  roast  chicken  or  veal. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d. 

226.— BIGARADE     SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce   Bigarade.) 
(For  Roast    Duck    or  Goose.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Seville  orange,  |  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  \  a  pint 
of  good  stock,  i  glass  of  port  wine,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Strain  the  juice  of  the  orange.  Cut  the  rind  into  very  fine 
strips,  cover  with  cold  water  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Simmer  gently 
from  10  to  15  minutes,  then  strain  and  drain  well.  Mix  the  brown 
sauce,  stock  and  orange- juice  together,  and  boil  until  reduced  to  half 
the  original  quantity.  Strain,  return  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  pre- 
pared orange-rind,  lemon-juice  and  port  wine,  season  to  taste,  boil 
and  use  as  required. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is. 

227.  — BORDELAISE    SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce    Borde- 
laise.) 

Ingredients. — £-  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  i  glass  of  claret,  2  finely- 
chopped  shallots,  -J-  an  oz.  of  glaze,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
tarragon  and  chervil,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  seasoning. 

Method. — Put  the  wine  and  shallots  into  a  saucepan,  and  reduce 
to  half  the  quantity.  Add  the  sauce  and  cook  slowly  for  20  minutes. 
Skim,  and  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  boil  up,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 


RECIPES  FOR  BROWN    SAUCES  237 

228.— BRAIN    SAUCE    FOR    SHEEPS'    HEAD. 

Ingredients. — 2  shecps'  brains,  J  of  a  pint  of  liquor  in  which  the  heads 
were  cooked,  i|  ozs.  of  butter,  i|-  ozs.  of  flour,  i  small  onion  chopped, 
i  teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  soak  the  brains  in  salt  and  water.  Tie  them  in 
muslin,  and  cook  them  until  firm  in  the  pot  containing  the 
sheeps' heads.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  cook  it 
slowly  until  lightly  browned,  then  put  in  the  onion,  and  continue  to 
cook  slowly  until  the  whole  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour.  Add  the 
pot-liquor,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  simmer  gently  for  10 
minutes,  then  stir  in  the  brains  previously  coarsely-chopped,  and 
serve  poured  over  the  prepared  heads,  or  separately. 

Time. — Altogether,  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2d.,  in  addition  to  the 
brains. 

229.— BRETONNE  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  Bretonne.) 

Ingredients. — I  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  i  tablcspoonful  of  haricot 
puree,  i  onion  sliced,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  fry  the  onion  until  well-browned,  add  the 
haricot  puree  and  brown  sauce,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Season  to 
taste,  simmer  for  5  minutes,  then  pass  through  a  fine  strainer  or  tammy 
cloth,  re-heat,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

230.— BROWN   CAPER   SAUCE.         (Fr.— Sauce   aux 
Capres  Brunes.)  (For  Steak,  Kidneys,  Fish.; 

Ingredients. — ^  a  pint  of  Espagnota    same,  or   i>n> \\-n    saner,    i 
•poonful  of  vinegar,  i  tea&poonful  nuhovy,  i  taHrspom 

ful  of  capers  cut  in  two,  i  small  onion  very  finely-chopped,  <  ayennr,  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

Method. — Put  the  sauce,  vinegar,  essence  of  anchovy  and  onion  into 
asauccpan,   boil, simmej:  for  10  minutes,   and   strain.       Krturn    to    the 
saucepan,  and  when  quite  hot  add  the  cayenne,  lemon-juice  and  c 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  2o"minutes.     Average  Cost,  i  id. 

231.— BROWN    MUSHROOM    SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce 
aux  Champignons  [Brune].) 

Ingredients.  -S  pri-scrvcd  mushrooms,  \  a  gill  of  the  liquor,  £  a  gill  of 
sherry,  £  a  gill  of  thin  Kspa-nolr  sauce. 


238  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Chop  the  mushrooms  finely,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
the  liquor  and  the  sherry,  cover  the  pan,  and  boil  well.  Add  the 
Espagnole,  boil  up  again,  then  season  and  serve. 

Time. — From  20   to   30  minutes      Average  Cost,   8d. 

THE  MUSHROOM  (Fr.  champignon). — This  highly-esteemed  fungus  is  found  in  all  parts  of  the  world, 
and  is  remarkable  for  the  rapidity  of  its  growth.  The  species,  and  its  several  varieties,  most  usually 
cultivated  for  table  use  is  Agaricus  campestris.  For  culinary  purposes  the  mushroom  is  of  much 
importance,  and  from  it  ketchup  is  prepared,  which  forms  the  basis  of  numerous  sauces.  There  are 
some  500  species  of  British  mushrooms,  and  of  these  many  are  more  or  less  poisonous,  as  the  Fly  mush- 
room (Agaricus  muscarius),  which  has  a  warted  orange  or  scarlet  cap,  and  possesses  highly  narcotic 
properties,  causing  delirium  and  death  if  eaten.  Great  care  should  be  taken  in  gathering  mushrooms 
to  ensure  that  they  are  of  the  edible  kind. 

232.— BROWN   ONION   SAUCE.         (Fr.— Sauce   Bre- 
tonne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Spanish  onions,  £  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  £  a  gill 
of  haricot  beans,  seasoning,  2  ozs.  of  butter. 

Method. — Soak  the  haricot  beans  for  12  hours,  then  put  them  on  to 
boil  in  salt  and  water,  and  when  tender  rub  them  through  a  hair  sieve. 
Skin  and  chop  the  onions,  fry  them  in  the  butter,  then  add  the  sauce, 
and  boil  slowly  until  the  onions  are  tender.  Pass  the  mixture  through 
a  hair  sieve,  add  the  haricot  puree,  warm  thoroughly,  season,  and 
serve. 

Time.     From  2  to  2.\  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod. 

233.— BROWN  SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce  Brune.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  brown  stock,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour, 
i  small  carrot,  i  small  onion,  6  fresh  button  mushrooms  (when  in 
season),  i  tomato,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Slice  the  mushrooms,  carrot,  and  onion,  and  fry  them  until 
brown  in  the  butter.  Sprinkle  in  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  the  sliced  tomato  and  stock,  and  stir  until  it  boils. 
Simmer  for  10  minutes,  season  to  taste,  strain  or  pass  through  a 
tammy-cloth,  re-heat,  and  serve.  Preserved  mushrooms  may  be  used, 
but  they  do  not  impart  the  same  flavour  to  the  sauce.  A  tablespoonful 
of  GOOD  mushroom  ketchup  is  an  improvement. 

Time. — 40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  6d.,  exclusive  of  the 
stock. 

234.— BROWN  SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce  Brune.)     (In- 
expensive.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  i  oz.  of  butter  or  sweet 
dripping,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  small  carrot,  i  small  onion,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  carrot  and  onion  into  small  pieces.  Melt  the  butter 
in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  flour  and  vegetables,  and  fry  until  brown, 
An  occasional  stir  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  ingredients  burning, 


RECIPES  FOR  BROWN    SAUCES  239 

but  if  they  are  constantly  stirred  they  brown  less  quickly.  Add  the 
water  or  stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  then  season 
to  taste,  and  use.  A  few  drops  of  browning  (see  page  214)  may  be 
added  when  the  sauce  is  too  light  in  colour. 

Time. — 25   to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d.  without  the  stock. 

235.— CALF'S  HEAD,  SAUCE  FOR. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  head  was  boiled, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  the  juice  and  finely-grated  rind  of  %  a  lemon,  i  onion 
sliced,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Fry  the  onion  in  the  butter  until  well-browned,  sprinkle 
in  the  flour  and  brown  it  also,  then  add  the  stock.  Simmer  gently 
for  £  an  hour  to  reduce,  then  strain.  Return  to  the  saucepan,  and  add 
the  parsley,  lemon-rind,  lemon-juice,  and  seasoning  to  taste,  make 
thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  50  to  60  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3^d. 

236.— CARROT  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  au  Carotte.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  No.  7,  i  large  carrot  grated, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.—  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  carrot,  and  let  it 
cook  gently  for  10  minutes.  Add  the  stock,  season  to  taste,  and  simmer 
gently  for  £  an  hour.  Return  to  the  saucepan,  strain,  add  the  parsley 
and  lemon-juice,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 45  to  55  minutes.     Average  Cost,  jd. 

237.— CHRISTOPHER        NORTH'S        SAUCE.     (For 
Meat  or  Game.) 

Ingredients. — i  glass  of  port,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  good  brown  sauce, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  i  dessertspoonful  of  pounded 
white    sugar,      i    tablespoonful    of    lemon-juice,    \    a    teaspoonful  of 
nne  pepper,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  thoroughly  together  and  heat  the 
sauce  gradually,  by  placing  the  vessel  in  which  it  is  made  in  a  saucepan 
of  boiling  water.  Do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  and  serve  directly  it  is  ready. 
This  sauce,  if  bottled  immediately,  will  keep  for  a  fortnight,  and  will 
be  found  excellent. 

Time. — 15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  iod, 


240  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


238.— CHUTNEY  SAUCE.    (Fr.— Sauce  au  Mangul. 

Make  a  sauce  the  same  as  for  venison  (see  page  251)  omitting  the 
red  currant  jelly,  and  adding  instead  i  heaped-up  tablespoonful  of 
mango  chutney,  chopped  rather  finely. 

239.— CIDER  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  au  Cidre.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  cider,  f-  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  2  cloves, 
i  bay-leaf,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Simmer  the  whole  until  reduced  to  the  desired  con:istency, 
then  pass  through  a  fine  strainer  or  tammy  cloth,  re-heat,  and  serve 
as  a  substitute  for  champagne  sauce  for  braised  ham  or  duck. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  9d. 

f% 

240.— CURRANT  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  au  Corinthe.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  currants  cleaned,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of 
flour,  |  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  glass  of  red  wine,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  %  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  ground  ginger,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  flour,  and  cook 
gently  until  it  acquires  a  light  brown  colour.  Put  in  the  wine  and 
water,  bring  to  the  boil,  add  the  lemon-rind  and  lemon-juice,  ginger, 
currants,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  then  serve 
without  straining. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d. 

241.— CURRY  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  au  Kari.) 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  pint  of  good  stock,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoon- 
ful of  curry  powder,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  i  tomato  sliced,  i  small 
onion  sliced,  salt. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly 
browned,  then  add  the  flour  and  curry  powder.  Stir  and  cook  gently 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  stock,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Put 
in  the  tomato,  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Simmer  gently  for  20  min- 
utes, then  strain  and  serve. 

Time.— From  35  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod. 


242.— DEMI-GLACE    SAUCE    (Half  Glaze).       (Fr.- 
Sauce  Demi-Glace.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  ^  of  a  pint  of  good  gravy. 


RECIPES   FOR   BROWN    SAUCES  241 

Method. — Strain  the  gravy  and  remove  all  the  fat.  Put  the  sauce 
and  gravy  into  a  saucepan,  boil  until  well  reduced,  skim  well,  and 
serve. 

Time.— About  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  5d.  without  the  gravy. 

243. —DEVILLED  SAUCE.     (Fr.—  Sauce  a  la  Diable.) 
(For  Devilled  Bones,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  Harvey  sauce,  2  tablespoonfuls  oi 
vinegar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  (melted),  i  teaspoonful  of  mustard, 
salt,  and  cayenne. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  in  a  deep  dish.  Score  the 
legs  of  a  cooked  chicken,  etc.,  lengthwise,  and  soak  well  in  the  sauce. 
Grill,  or  fry  in  a  little  hot  fat  or  butter,  serve  very  hot. 

Time.  About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  4d.  for  this  quantity  of 
sauce. 

244. — ESPAGNOLE  OR  SPANISH  SAUCE.  (Fr.— Sauce 
Espagnole.) 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  stock,  i  oz.  of  .raw  lean  ham  or  bacon,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  carrot,  i  onion,  i  clove,  4  pt'Pl  ' 
bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  £  a  gill  of  tomato  pulj 
gill  of  sherry,  2  mushrooms. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  ham,  cut  into  small 
pieces,  fry  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  put  in  the  vegetables  slued. 
the  herbs,  and  spices.  Stir  these  ingredients  over  a  slow  tire  for 
about  5  minutes,  then  add  the  flour  and  brown  it  carefully.  Add 
the  stock,  tomato-pulp,  and  sherry,  stir  the  sauce  until  boiling,  draw 
the  saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  let  it  boil  slowly  for  about  i  hour, 
then  skim  of!  the  fat,  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammy-cloth,  season, 
warm  up,  and  serve. 

Time. — About   i£  hours.     Average  Cost,    is.  4d.     Quantity,  i  pint. 

245.— FINANCIERS  SAUCE.  (Fr.-Sauce  Financiere.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  brown  sauce,  i  glass  of  sherry,  £  an  oz.  of  meat 
glaze,  Financiere  garnish  of  cocks'-combs,  truffles  and  small  mush- 
rooms, salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  brown  sauce  as  directed,  add  the  sherry  and  meat 
glaze,  and  simmer  gently  until  considerably  reduced.  Pass  through 
a  fine  strainer  or  tammy  cloth,  re-heat,  add  the  Financiere  garnish, 
season  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2S,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the 
Financiere. 


242  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

246.— FINANCIERE  SAUCE.     (Another  way.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  i  glass  of  sherry  or  Madeira, 

1  tablespoonful  of  tomato  puree,  i  tablespoonful   of   chicken-essence, 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  liquor,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  truffle  liquor, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  brown  sauce  as  directed,  add  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients,  simmer  gently  until  well  reduced,  and  pass  through  a  fine 
strainer  or  tammy  cloth.  Re-heat,  season  to  taste,  and  use  as  re- 
quired. ^ 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  9d. 

247.— FINANCIERE  SAUCE.    (Fr.— Sauce  Financiere.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  \  an  oz.  of  glaze,  i  glass  of 
sherry,  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  liquor,  financiere  garnish. 

Method. — Put  all  ingredients  in  a  saucepan,  let  them  come  to  the 
boil,  and  cook  slowly  until  well  reduced.  A  garnish  of  truffles,  small 
mushrooms,  and  cocks'-combs  is  added  to  the  sauce  before  serving. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  23.  3d.  to  33.  6d. 

248.— GAME    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Gibier.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  i  glass  of  sherry,  i  small 
onion,  -£  a  small  carrot,  £  of  a  small  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  a  blade  of  mace,  i  clove,  salt,  pepper,  the  trim- 
mings and  carcasses  of  game ;  those  of  grouse  or  woodcock  are 
preferable. 

Method. — Chop  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  game  into  small  pieces, 
cut  the  vegetables  into  thin  slices.  Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  sauce- 
pan, add  the  sherry,  herbs,  flavourings  and  seasoning,  and  simmer 
for  5  minutes.  Add  the  Espagnole  sauce,  bring  to  the  boil,  skin,  and 
cook  slowly  for  15  minutes,  pass  through  a  tammy-cloth,  re-heat,  add 
salt  and  pepper  if  necessary,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  to  is.  3d.,  with- 
out the  game. 

249.— GHERKIN    OR  CORNICHON  SAUCE.     (Fr.- 
Sauce  aux  Cornichons.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  gherkins,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  a<J4  the  prepared  gherkins, 
season  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d. 


RECIPES   FOR   BROWN    SAUCES  243 

250.— HAM  SAUCE.      (Fr.—  Sauce  au  Jambon.)     (For 
Veal,  Duck,  Game,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — £•  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  or  brown  sauce,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  finely-shredded  or  coarsely-chopped  ham,  i  dessertspoon- 
ful of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Mode. — Make  the  sauce  hot  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  ham,  and  simmer 
for  5  minutes.  Remove  from  the  fire,  put  in  the  parsley,  lemon-juice, 
season,  and  serve. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

251.— INDIAN  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  a  1'  Indienne.) 

Ingredients. — f  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of 
curry  powder,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  chutney, 
i  sour  apple  sliced,  i  onion  sliced,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  brown,  sprinkle 
in  the  flour  and  curry  powder,  and  cook  gently  for  10  or  15  minutes. 
Add  the  stock,  bring  to  the  boil,  put  in  the  apple,  chutney,  and  a  good 
pinch  of  salt,  and  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes.  Strain,  re-heat,  add 
the  lemon-juice,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 45  to  50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  Qd. 

252.— ITALIAN   SAUCE.         (Fr.— Sauce   Italiennc.) 

Ingredients. — J-  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  4  small  shallots  chopped, 
4  fresh  mushrooms  coarsely  chopped,  i  sprig  of  thyme,  i  bay-l« 
tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil,  i  glass  of  chabtis,  £  a  gill  of  stock. 

Method. — Put  the  shallots  in  a  small  piece  of  muslin,  and  squeeze 
them  in  cold  water  to  extract  some  of  the  flavour,  then  place  them 
in  a  stewpan  with  the  oil,  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  brown. 
Add  the  wine,  mushrooms,  herbs  and  stock,  reduce  well,  and  add  the 
Espagnole.  Boil  for  10  minutes,  take  out  the  herbs,  skim  off  the  oil, 
and  s> 

Time. — From  25   to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,   is.    id.  to  is.  3d. 

253.— ITALIAN     SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce     Italienne.) 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — |  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  4  small  shallots,  8  preserved 
mushrooms,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  i  bay-leaf,  i  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil, 
i  glass  of  Chablis  or  Sauterne,  £  a  gill  of  stock. 

Method. — Peel  the  shallots,  chop  them  finely,  place  them  in  the  corner 


244  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

of  a  clean  cloth,  hold  tightly  wrapped  up  under  cold  water,  and 
squeeze  well.  Put  them  in  a  small  stewpan  with  the  oil,  stir  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes,  to  blend  but  not  to  colour.  Add  the  wine, 
the  mushrooms  (finely  chopped),  herbs,  and  the  stock,  let  it  reduce  well, 
and  add  the  Espagnole.  Boil  for  10  minutes,  take  out  the  herbs,  free 
the  sauce  from  the  oil,  and  keep  hot  in  the  bain-marie  until  required. 
Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  for  this  quantity,  is.  id.  to  is.  3d. 
Sufficient  for  two  small  dishes. 

THE  SHALLOT,  OR  ESCHALOT  (Fr.  eschalote)  is  a  species  of  onion,  A  Ilium  Ascalonicum,  with  compound 
bulbs,  which  separate  into  "  cloves  "  like  garlK  It  is  the  mildest  flavoured  of  all  the  onions.  The 
shallot  is  used  to  flavour  soups  and  made-dishes,  and  in  the  raw  state  makes  an  excellent  pickle.  The 
name  is  said  to  be  derived  from  Ascalon,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  it  was  found  growing  wild  by  the 
Crusaders,  who  brought  it  back  with  them  to  England. 

254.— KIDNEY  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Rognons.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  ox  kidney,  \  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  \  an 
oz.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  every  particle  of  fat,  and  cut  the  kidney  into  small 
pieces.  Melt  the  butter,  fry  the  kidney  for  a  few  minutes,  then  sprinkle 
in  the  flour.  Stir  and  cook  until  the  flour  is  slightly  browned,  then  add 
the  stock  and  season  to  taste.  Bring  to  the  boil,  simmer  gently  for 
20  minutes,  then  strain  and  serve. 

Time. — 35  to  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d.  without  the  stock. 

255.— MADEIRA  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Madere.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  \  of  a  pint  of  good  gravy, 
i  oz.  of  meat  glaze,  i  glass  of  Madeira  or  sherry,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Simmer  the  sauce,  gravy  and  wine  until  well  reduced. 
Season  to  taste,  put  in  the  meat  glaze,  stir  until  it  is  dissolved,  then 
strain  the  sauce,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  \  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  for  this 
quantity.  Sufficient  for  f  of  a  pint  of  sauce. 

256.— MINT    SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce    a    la    Menthe.) 
(To  serve  with  Roast  Lamb.) 

Ingredients. — 4  dessertspoonfuls  of  chopped  mint,  2  dessertspoonfuls 
of  sugar,  \  of  a  pint  of  vinegar. 

Method. — The  mint  should  be  young  and  fresh-gathered.  Wash  it 
free  from  grit,  pick  the  leaves  from  the  stalks,  mince  them  very 
fine,  put  them  into  a  tureen,  add  the  sugar  and  vinegar,  and  stir  till 
the  former  is  dissolved.  This  sauce  is  better  by  being  made  2  or  3 
hours  before  it  is  required  for  the  table,  as  the  vinegar  then  becomes 
impregnated  with  the  flavour  of  the  mint.  Good  white  wine  vinegar  is 

' 


RECIPES   FOR   BROWN    SAl  < 

preferable   to  ordinary   malt  vinegar.     Sugar  should   be    jdd.-d  with 
discretion  until  the  required  degree  of  sweetness  is  obtained. 
Average  Cost. — 3d.     Sufficient  to  serve  with  a  quarter  of  lamb. 

MINT  (Fr.  mcnthf),  a  genus  of  aromatic  perennial  herbs  of  the  .  -ributed 

throughout  the  temperate  regions,  some  of  them  being  common  to  Britain.     'I  h«-  ^p-.-.ir  mi- 

most  cultivated  in  gardens,  and  used  in  various  wav>  for  culinary  purposes,  an 
•  with  vinegar  and  sugar.     From  the  leaves  of  the  Peppermint  (A*  ssential 

oil  is  distilled,  which  is  largely  used  as  an  aromatic,  a  carminative,  and  a  stimulant  medicine. 

257.— MUSHROOM     SAUCE.         (Fr.— Sauce     Cham- 
pignons.) 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  pint  of  brov.-n  sauce,  \  a  pint  of  button  mush- 
rooms, i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  mushrooms  and  remove  the  stalks.  Heat  the 
butter  in  a  stcwpan,  put  in  the  mushrooms,  and  toss  them  over  the 
fire  for  10  minutes.  Drain  off  any  butter  that  remains  unabsorbed, 
add  the  brown  sauce,  season  to  taste,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  /d.,  in  addition  to  the  sauce. 

258.— MUSHROOM   SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Cham- 
pignons.)    (Another    way.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  mushrooms,  f  of  a  pint  of  boiling  stock,  i£  ozs. 
of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.     M«-lt   I  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan.  add  the  flour,  and 
slowly  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour.      Meanwhile.  peel  an-1 
the  mushrooms  coarsely,  and  1'ry  tin-in  i«T  i»  minutes  in  the  remainder 
of  the  butter.      When  ready,  add  the  stock  to  the  blended  butter  and 
Hour,  stir  until  it   boils,  and  season    to   t, 

minutes,    then   add    the   prepared    mushrooms,   make    thoroughly   hot, 
and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  7d.,  in  addition  to  the 
mushrooms. 


259.— OLIVE   SAUCE   FOR   POULTRY   AND    MEAT. 
(Fr. — Sauce  aux  Olives.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  Espagnolc  sauce,  £  of  a  pint  of  good  stock, 
i£  doz.  small  olives,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon -juice. 

Method.— Carefully  stone  the  olr  iring  them  round  in  ri! 

so  that    they  may  be  replaced  in  their  orii;in;i!  1'ut   them  into 

cold    water,  bring  to    the   boil,   and   drain    well.      Have    the 
stork    ready   boiling,  put   in   the  olives,    simmer  gently  W  \  an  hour, 
then  add  the  lemon-juice,  season,  and  serve. 


246  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — 40  to  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s. 

THE  OLIVE  (Fr.  olive).— The  picturesque  olive-tree  is  indigenous  to  Syria  and  other  warm  Asiatic 
countries,  and  flourishes  in  Spain  and  Italy.  It  was  well-known  in  Greece,  Solon,  in  the  sixth  cen- 
tury, B.C.,  enacting  laws  for  its  cultivation.  By  Greek  colonists  it  was  introduced  into  the  countries 
bordering  upon  the  Mediterranean,  and  is  now  also  cultivated  in  Peru  and  California.  The  olive 
was  first  planted  in  England  in  the  seventeenth  century,  but  its  fruit  does  not  ripen  in  the  open  air 
in  northern  climates.  From  early  ages  the  olive-tree  has  been  highly  esteemed  both  for  its  fruit,  and 
for  the  valuable  oil  extracted  from  it.  Many  associations  sacred  and  classic  are  connected  with  the 
olive-tree,  which  by  the  Romans  was  held  to  be  sacred  to  the  goddess  Minerva.  Wreaths  of  wild 
olive  constituted  the  prizes  awarded  to  the  victors  in  the  classic  races  at  Olympia,  and  an  olive  branch 
was,  and  is  still,  regarded  as  the  symbol  of  peace.  The  Mount  of  Olives  was  the  scene  of  four  of  the 
principal  events  in  the  life  of  the  Founder  of  Christianity,  and  at  its  foot  is  the  traditional  site  of  the 
Garden  of  Gethsemane.  In  the  Old  Testament  many  allusions  are  made  by  the  prophetical  and  other 
writers  to  the  olive.  The  olive-tree  attains  to  a  great  age  :  some  specimens  on  the  Mount  of  Olives 
are  estimated  to  have  been  2,000  years  in  existence.  Olives,  commonly  pickled  in  brine,  are  chiefly 
used  in  England  for  dessert  or  between  courses,  to  remove  the  flavour  of  the  viands  previously  eaten. 

There  are  three  principal  kinds  of  olives  which  are  imported,  those  from  Provence,  in  France 
from  Spain,  and  from  Italy  :  those  from  Lucca  are  esteemed  the  best.  One  species  of  olive, 
Olea  fragrans,  is  largely  used  by  the  Chinese  to  perfume  tea.  The  wood  of  the  olive-tree  is  a 
yellowish-brown,  and  is  employed  for  inlaying  and  ornamental  purposes.  The  wood  of  an  American 
species,  Olea  Americana,  from  its  excessive  hardness,  is  called  "  devil-wood."  From  the  fruit  of  the 
olive-tree  the  valuable  olive-oil  is  obtained,  the  quality  of  the  oil  differing  according  to  the  soil  on 
which  the  olive  is  grown,  and  the  care  taken  in  extracting  and  preparing  it.  It  is  much  used 
as  an  article  of  food  in  the  countries  where  it  is  produced,  and  enters  into  the  composition  of  many 
dishes.  In  England  it  is  chiefly  used  for  dressing-salads,  and  other  culinary  purposes.  Olive-oil, 
the  lightest  of  all  the  fixed  oils,  is  used  in  medicine,  and  also  in  the  arts  and  manufactures.  "  Gallipoli 
oil  "  is  largely  employed  in  Turkey-red  dyeing,  and  for  making  special  kinds  of  soap.  Sardines  are 
preserved  in  olive-oil. 


260.— ORANGE     SAUCE.       (Fr.  —  Sauce     au     Jus 
d'  Orange.) 

Ingredients. — I  orange,  J  pint  Espagnole  sauce,  \  pint  stock,  or 
roast  meat  gravy,  lemon  juice,  red  currant  jelly,  salt,  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  an  orange  thinly,  and  cut  the  peel  into  strips  (julienne 
fashion),  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  boil 
for  5  minutes,  and  drain  in  a  sieve.  Put  in  a  stewpan,  the  Espagnole 
sauce,  stock,  and  £  the  juice  of  the  orange.  Allow  all  to  reduce  to 
half  its  quantity.  Add  the  orange  peel,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  red  currant  jelly,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
boil  up  again,  and  serve  with  roast  wild  duck,  wild  boar,  or  other 
game. 

Time. — 25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  iod.,  without   the  stock. 

261.— ORANGE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  a  1'Orange.) 

(For  Roast  Wild   Duck,  Wild  Fowl,  Widgeon, 
Veal,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  gill  of  brown  sauce,  i  gill  gravy,  juice  of  an 
orange,  salt  and  pepper,  the  end  of  an  orange  finely  shredded. 

Mix  the  brown  sauce  with  the  meat  gravy;  to  this  add  the  juice  of 
the  orange,  and  boil.  Skim,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  in 
the  rind  of  £  an  orange,  boil  again,  and  serve. 


RECIPES   FOR   BROWN    SAUCES  247 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d. 

. — If  liked,  a  small  shallot  finely-chopped,  and  £  a  glass  of  port  wine 
or  claret  can  be  added,  and  cooked  with  the  above  sauce  ;  this  is  considered 
an  improvement. 

262.— ORANGE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Bigarade.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Seville  orange,  £  a  pint  Espagnole  sauce,  £  a  pint  of 
good  stock,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  i  glass  of  port  wine,  cayenne, 
salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  rind  from  half  the  orange,  and  cut  it  in  very 
thin  shreds.  Boil  these  in  water  for  5  minutes.  Put  the  sauce  and 
stock  into  a  stewpan  with  the  juice  of  \  the  orange,  and  reduce  to  half 
quantity.  Strain,  add  all  the  other  ingredients,  boil,  skim,  add  the 
shreds  of  orange  rind,  and  serve. 

Time. — 25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,    is.  4d. 

263.— PARISIAN  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce   Parisienne.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of 
meat  glaze,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  2  shallots,  very  finely  chopped,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Heat  the  sauce,  add  the  meat  glaze,  lemon-juice,  parsley 
and  shallots,  and  simmer  gently  for  i;  minutes.  Season  to  taste, 
whisk  in  the  butter  bit  by  bit,  then  serve  as  an  accompaniment  to 
steaks  or  fillets  of  beef. 

Time. — About  |  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

264.— PEPPER  SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce  Poivrade.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  a 
small  carrot,  £  a  small  onion,  18  peppercorns, i  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme, 
2  cloves,  £  an  oz.  of  raw  ham. 

Me  hod. — Mix  the  onion  and  carrot,  cut  the  ham  into  small  pieces  ; 
fry  in  the  butter  for  3  minutes,  and  add  all  the  other  ingredients. 
Skim,  boil  for  10  minutes,  strain,  and  servo. 

Time. — From   15   to  20  minutes.      Averaje  Cost,    is.  2d. 

265.— PIQU ANTE  SAUCE.         (Fr— Sauce  Piquante.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
i  tablespoonful  of  capers  cut  in  two,  i  tablespoonful  of  gherkin  coarsely 
chopped,  i  small  onion  finely  chopped,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  onion  and  vinegar  into  a  small  saucepan,  let 
them  boil  until  considerably  reduced,  then  add  the  brown  sauce, 
capers,  gherkin,  salt  and  pepper  if  necessary,  bring  to  the  boil,  simmer 
for  5  minutes,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.    Average  Cost,  7d. 


248  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

266.— PIQUANT      SAUCE       FOR     BOILED     VEAL. 
(Fr. — Sauce  Piquante.)     (Economical.) 

Ingredients. — J-  a  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  has  been  boiled, 
i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  i  dessertspoonful  of  Harvey  or  other  similar 
sauce,  i  dessertspoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  i  small  carrot,  i  small 
onion,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  onion  and  carrot  into  small  pieces,  melt  the  butter 
in  a  small  saucepan,  add  the  flour  and  vegetables,  and  fry  them  until 
brown.  Now  put  in  the  vinegar,  stir  and  boil  until  considerably 
reduced,  then  add  the  stock,  Harvey  sauce,  ketchup,  and  seasoning 
if  necessary,  boil,  strain,  and  use. 

Time. — 25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2-£d.  to  3d. 

267.— PORT    WINE    SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce   au  Vin 
d'Oporto.)     (For  Venison,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — £•  of  a  pint  of  gravy  from  roast  venison  or  mutton,  a 
glass  of  port  wine,  i  teaspoonful  of  red-currant  jelly,  a  few  drops  of 
lemon- juice. 

Method. — Put  all  the  above  into  a  small  saucepan,  bring  to  the  boil, 
and  serve. 

Time. — 7  or  8  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  without  the  gravy. 

268.— PORT   WINE    SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce    au    Vin 
d'Gporto.)     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  i  glass  of  port  wine, 
i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  red  currant  jelly. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  in  a  saucepan,  bring  to  the 
boil,  and  serve. 

Time. — 7  or  8  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

269.— REFORM    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Reforme.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  Pepper  sauce,  No.  264,  i  glass  of  port  wine 
i  tablespoonful  of  red  currant  jelly,  cayenne  pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  then  add  to  it  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  strain,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour  altogether.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 

270.— REGENCE  SAUCE.    (Fr.— Sauce  Regence.) 

Ingredients. — 2  small  shallots,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  gill  of  fish  stock 

(prepared  with  the  fish  bones  and  some  vegetables  to  flavour),  £  a  gill 

of  Marsala  wine,   i|  gills   of    Espagnole    sauce,    parsley,  i,  bay-leaf, 

*  sprig  of  thyme,  i  teaspoonful  of  horseradish  mustard,  i  tablespoonful 

of  meat  glaze,  i  dessertspoonful  of  truffle  trimmings,  seasoning. 


RECIPES   FOR   BROWN   SAUCES  249 

Method. — Peel  the  shallots  and  chop  finely,  fry  them  a  golden-brown 
in  the  butter,  add  the  fish  stock  and  the  wine,  cover,  and  let  these 
reduce  to  half  the  original  quantity.  Now  add  a  few  Sprigs  oi  parsley, 
the  bay-leaf,  thyme,  and  the  Espagnole  sauce,  let  it  simmer  gently 
tor  jo  minutes,  then  strain,  and  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tammy-cloth. 
When  required  for  table,  stir  in  the  horseradish  mustard  and  the  meat 
glaze — the  latter  should  be  incorporated  in  little  bits.  Season  to 
taste,  stir  in  the  truffles,  finely  chopped,  re-heat  slowly,  and  use  as 
directed. 

Time. — 30-40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 

271.— REMOULADE    SAUCE.       (Fr.—  Sauce  Remou- 
lade.) 

See  recipe  for  Salad  Dressing,  page  230. 

272. — ROBERT  SAUCE  (Brown  Onion).  (Fr. — Sauce 
Robert.)  (For  Goose,  Pork,  Steak,  Cut- 
lets.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  £  a  glass  of  white  wine, 
$  an  oz.  of  butter,  4-  a  small  onion,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar, 

1  saltspoonful  of  dry  mustard. 

Method. — Mince  the  onion  and  fry  it  brown  in  the  butter,  ;;dd  the 
mustard  and  wine,  reduce  a  little.  Add  the  sauce,  cook  for  n>  inr. 

a,  and  strain. 
Time. — 25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  lod. 

273.— ROBERT  SAUCE  (for  Pork  Cutlets.)  (Fr.— 
Sauce  Robert.)  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — f  of  a  pint  of  brown  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  I  of  an  oz.  of 
flour,  i  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  made  mu- 

2  medium-sized  onions,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Chop  the  onions  coarsely  and  fry  them  brown  in  the  butter. 
Sprinkle  in  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  until  brown,  then  add  the  stock, 
vinegar.  p«-pprr  and  salt,  bring  to  the  boil  and  simnu-r  gently  t«>r  \ 
an  hour.  Add  the  mustard  a  few  minutes  before  serving.  Strain, 
and  use  as  required. 

Time.— 40   to   50   minutes.     Average    Cost,    about    ;d. 

274.— SAGE  AND   ONION  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  aux 
Sauge).     (For  Roast  Pork.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  brown  stock,   2    medium-sized  onions, 


250  HOUSEHOLD    MANACxEMENT 

2  ozs.  of  freshly-made  breadcrumbs,  i£  ozs.  of  butter  or  sweet  dripping, 

1  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  sage,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  onions  into  rather  small  dice.  Melt  the  butter  or 
fat,  put  in  the  onions,  and  fry  slowly  until  brown.  Add  the  stock  and 
boil  up,  then  put  the  sage,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  simmer  for 
10  minutes,  and  serve. 

Time. — About   40   minutes.     Average   Cost,    /d. 

SAGE  (Fr.  sauge). — This  "  sweet  herb  "  is  a  native  of  the  countries  bordering  upon  the  Mediter- 
ranean, but  has  long  been  cultivated  in  English  gardens.  There  are  several  varieties  of  sage,  the 
green,  the  red.  the  small-leaved,  and  the  broad-leaved  balsamic.  Its  leaves  and  tender  tops  ate 
used  for  stuffings  and  sauces,  the  red  kind  being  the  best  for  that  purpose,  and  next  to  it  the  green 
variety.  An  infusion,  prepared  from  the  dried  leaves  and  shoots  of  the  sage,  called  sage  tea,  is  used 
as  an  astringent  and  tonic  medicine. 

275.— SALMIS    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Salmis.) 

Ingredients. — i  teaspoonful  red  currant  jelly,  \  a  pint  of  Espagnole 
sauce,  i  gill  of  game  stock  (made  from  the  carcass  of  cooked  game) 

2  shallots  chopped  finely,  i  bay-leaf,  i  sprig  of  thyme,  a  few  mushroom 
trimmings,  i  glass  of  port,  i  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil. 

Method. — Put  the  oil  in  a  stewpan,  and  fry  the  shallots  a  golden 
colour,  add  the  bay-leaf,  thyme,  mushroom  trimmings  and  port  wine, 
cover  the  stewpan  and  cook  for  5  minutes.  Add  the  stock  and  sauce, 
stir  well,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  and  remove  the  scum.  Pass  the 
sauce  through  a  tammy-cloth,  season,  add  red  currant  jelly,  warm  up, 
and  serve. 

Time. — From  35   to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,   is.  2d. 

276.— SHALLOT  SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce    Echaiote.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  good  brown  gravy,  No.  6,  \  an  oz.  of 
butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
6  shallots  finely-chopped. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  fry  the  shallots  until  lightly  browned, 
and  add  the  HOT  gravy  and  the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Simmer  gently 
for  10  minutes,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2^d.,  in  addition  to  the 
stock. 

277. — SHARP  SAUCE.     (Fr. — Sauce  Piquante.) 

Ingredients. — 4  shallots  chopped  finely,  3  gherkins  chopped,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  capers,  i  gill  of  vinegar,  i  bay-leaf,  i  sprig  of 
thyme,  £  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce. 

Method. — Put  the  shallots  in  a  stewpan  with  the  vinegar,  bay-leaf, 
and  thyme,  cover,  and  reduce  to  half  quantity.  Strain  into  another: 
stewpan,  add  the  gherkins,  capers,  and  sauce,  boil  for  a  few  minutes. 

Time. — From  20  to  25   minutes.     Average  Cost,   is.  2d. 


RECIPES   FOR   BROWN    SAUCES 

278.—  SORREL  SAUCE.     (Fr.—  Sauce  TOseille.)     (For 
Boiled  or  Braised  Fowls.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  good  gravy,  No.  6,  a  small  handful  of  sorrel. 

Method. — Wash  and  pick  the  sorrel,  cover  it  with  cold  water,  bring 
to  the  boil,  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  and  drain  well.  Have  the  gravy 
ready  in  a  saucepan.  Chop  the  sorrel  finely,  add  it  to  the  gravy,  and 
serve. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

SORREL  (Fr.  surelle).— The  Romans  cultivated  the  sorrel,  which  is  a  native  of  Italy  and  France, 
and  ate  its  acrid  leaves,  stewed  with  mustard,  and  seasoned  with  oil  and  vinegar.  In  French  cookery, 
sorrel  is  largely  used,  both  as  a  salad  and  for  culinary  purposes.  Although  the  leaves  are  both  win  >!<•- 
some  and  pleasant  to  the  taste,  sorrel  finds  little  favour  with  English  cooks.  There  are  two  species  of  tins 
plant,  but  in  England  they  are  scarcely  grown  as  a  vegetable.  In  most  parts  of  Britain  sorr 
wild  in  the  grass  meadows.  Tartaric  acid,  tannic  acid,  and  binoxalate  of  potash  are  constituents  ot 
sorrel,  and  impart  to  it  its  characteristic  acid  taste. 

279.-SPANISH   SAUCE.    (Fr.—  Sauce  Espangole.) 

See  Espagnole  Sauce. 

280.— TEXAS  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  a  la  Texas.) 

Ingredients. — |  of  a  pint  of  curry  sauce,  No.  241,   i   teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  a  good 
of  saffron,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Make  the  curry  sauce  as  directed,  and  just  before  serving 
add  the  lemon-juice,  parsley,  saffron,  and  lastly  the  butter,  which  should 
be  whisked  in  gradually  in  small  pieces,  to  piv\vnt  it  oiling. 

Time. — 45  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  id.,  in  addition  to  the  curry 
sauce. 

281.— TOMATO  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Tomate.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  tomatoes,  2  shallots,  i  bay-leaf,  i  sprig  of  thynn* 
10  peppercorns,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  lean  ham,  i  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar. 

Method.     Mc-lt  the  butter  in  a  stew-fan,  add  the  ham  cut  small,  and 

uillots  chopped.     Cook  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  brown. 
add  the  seasoning,  herbs,  peppercorns,  and  tomai  .1,  stir  al- 

ter, and  boil  for  about   20  minutes,  or  until  well  reduced.     Pass 
mce  through  a  tammy-cloth,  warm  up,  season,  and  s< 
Time. — From  30  to  35   minutes.     Average  Cost,  ;d.   to  8d. 

THE  TOMATO,  or  LOVK  APPLE  (Fr.  Tomate),  is  a  native  of  South  America,  but  was  introduced  into 
Europe  in  the  sixteenth  centurv.     It  is  successfully  cultivated  in  warm  or  temperate  climates,  and 

!iv  in  southern  Europe  ;  it  i<  extensively  grown  in  England.     Tl. 

or  cooked  in  various  wavs,  and  is  also  used  as  an  ingredient  in  salads,  and  as  a  sauce.     In  it 
made  into  pickle.     Reference  is  made  to  the  tomato  as  the  "  Love  apple,"  by  the  late 
Dickens,  in  the  celebrated  trial  of  BardcU  r.  Pickwick,  in  his  Pickwick  Papers. 

282.— TOMATO      SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce  Tomate.) 

(Another    Method.) 
Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  tomatoes,  £  of  a  pint  of  good  stock,   i 


252  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

onion  sliced,   a   bouquet-garni    (parsley,   thyme,   bay-leaf),    I    oz. 
butter,  ^  an  oz.  of  flour,  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Halve   the   tomatoes,  squeeze   out  the   juice,    strain    am 
put  it  aside.     Put  the  prepared  tomatoes  into  a  stewpan,  add  tl 
stock,  onion,  bouquet-garni,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  simmer  vei 
gently  for  i  hour,  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve.     Melt  the  butt( 
stir  in  the  flour,  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  tomato-pul] 
and  as  much  of  the  strained  tomato-juice  as  may  be  necessary  to 
obtain  the  desired  consistency.     Add  a  pinch  of  sugar,  season  to  taste 
make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  iod.,  in  addition  to  the 
stock. 

283.— TRUFFLE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Truffes.) 

Ingredients. — 3  large  truffles,  i  gill  of  brown  sauce,  i  gill  of  tomato 
sauce,  i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  £  an  oz.  of  fresh  butter,  about 
i  glass  of  sherry, 

Method. — Chop  the  truffles  finely,  put  them  in  a  small  stewpan,  cover 
with  sherry,  add  i  gill  of  brown  sauce  and  i  gill  of  tomato  sauce, 
boil  for  a  few  minutes,  finish  with  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence 
and  the  fresh  butter. 

Time. — From  15  to  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d. 

284.— TURTLE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Tortue.) 

Ingredients. —  i^  pints  of  Espagnole  sauce,  No.  244,  made  from  turtle 
stock,  i  glass  of  sherry,  i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon-juice,  -J  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  lemon  rind,  2 
shallots  finely  chopped.  Cayenne  pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  saucepan,  and  simmer  until 
considerably  reduced,  then  strain,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.,  without  the  turtle 
stock  broth. 

285.— VENISON    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Chevreuil.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  onion,  i  oz.  of  lean  ham,  i  oz.  of  butter,  \  a  gill 
of  vinegar,  12  crushed  peppercorns,  i  bay-leaf,  \  a  small  minced  carrot, 
a  little  thyme  and  chopped  parsley,  \  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce, 
i  glass  of  port  wine,  i  dessertspoonful  of  red  currant  jelly. 

Method. — Mince  the  onion  and  the  ham,  fry  them  in  butter,  then 
add  the  vinegar,  peppercorns,  bay -leaf,  carrot,  and  herbs.  Cover  tho 
saucepan  and  simmer  for  10  minutes.  Then  add  the  sauce,  wine,  and 
jelly.  Cook  for  10  minutes,  skim  and  strain.  Re-heat,  season,  and 
serve. 

Time,— -From  30  to  35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d. 


RECIPES   FOR  FISH    SAUCES  253 

286.— VENISON     SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce    Chevreuil.) 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — |  pint  brown  sauce  No.  164,  i  dessertspoonful  of  red 
currant  jelly,  ^  a  glass  of  port  wine,  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon,  salt, 
pepper,  i  dessertspoonful  of  meat  glaze  or  Lemco. 

Method.— Put  all  the  ingredients  except  the  glaze  into  a  pan  and 
simmer  till  the  jelly  is  dissolved.  Add  the  glaze,  boil  again,  skim, 
strain  and  serve. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod. 

287.— WALNUT  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — f  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i|  ozs.  of  butter,  ij  ozs.  of  flour, 
2  small  onions  sliced,  4  firm  pickled  walnuts,  i  tablcspoonful  of  walnut 
vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly 
browned,  then  sprinkle  in  the  flour.     Fry  slowly  until  the  flour  acquires 
a  nut-brown  colour,  then  add  the  stock,  and  simmer  gently   t 
minutes.     Strain  and  return  to  the  stewpan,  season  to  taste,  add  the 
vinegar  and  the  walnuts,  previously  cut  into  dice.     Serve  with  br 
mutton  or  any  dish  requiring  a  sharp  sauce. 

Time.— About  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  ul.  or  ;d. 

Fish  Sauces. 

288.— ANCHOVY    SAUCE.     (Fr. —Sauce    d'Anchois.N 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  IVrluuml  same,  No.  i;S,  i  t» M^.UC >nful  of 
anchovy  essence. 

Method.     Make  the  sauce  hot  in  a  small  stewpan,  add  the  amh»vy 

nee,   and  |uired. 

Time. — From  5  to  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about   ;<1. 

289.— ANCHOVY   SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce  d'Anchois.) 
(Inexpensive.) 

Ingredients. —  \  a  pint  of  melted  buttiT,  No.  JDJ,  i  t.-ispoonful  of 
anchovy  essence. 

Method.  Make  the  melted  butter,  add  to  it  the  anchovy  essence, 
and  use  as  required. 

Time. — To  make  the  melted  butt.T.  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  i|d 
per  \  pint. 


254  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

290.— ANCHOVY    SAUCE.       (Fr.—  Sauce   d'Anchois.' 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  fish  stock  or  wat< 

1  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  inthe  flour,  and  cook  for 
5  or  6  minutes.  Add  the  milk  and  stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  simmer  for 

2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  anchovy  essence,  and  use  as  required. 
Time. — 1$  to  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

291.— AURORA  SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce  a  1'Aurore.) 
(For  Soles,  Trout,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce,  No.  178,  i  tablespoonful  of 
cream,  i  dessertspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  or  lemon-juice,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  the  spawn  of  a  lobster,  salt,  cayenne. 

Method. — Pound  the  lobster  spawn  and  butter  well  together,  and  rub 
through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Make  the  Bechamel  hot  in  a  saucepan,  put 
in  the  spawn,  cream,  vinegar  and  seasoning,  and  stir  at  the  side  of  the 
fire  until  quite  hot,  but  without  boiling. 

Time. — 30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost.  5d.  to  6d.,  without  the  lobster 
spawn. 

292.— CARDINAL  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  Cardinal.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  No.  222,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  \  an  oz.  of  lobster  coral  finely- 
chopped,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  white  sauce  as  directed,  add  the  lobster  coral  and 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer  gently  for  15  minutes,  then 
pass  through  a  fine  strainer  or  tammy  cloth.  Re-heat,  add  the  cream 
and  lemon-juice,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  |  an  hour.    Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d. ,  exclusive  of  the  coral. 

293.— COCKLE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Mouhs.) 

Ingredients. — %  °f  a- pint  of  cooked  cockles,  i  pint  of  melted  butter, 
No.  228,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  cockles  in  the  usual  way,  and  re- 
move them  from  the  shells.  Have  the  melted  butter  ready  boiling, 
add  the  cockles  and  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and  serve  as  an  accom- 
paniment to  cod  or  other  fish. 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  $d. 

294.— CODFISH,    SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  No.  234,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato 
sauce,  No.  281,  i  glass  of  Marsala,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  stock,  i  oz.  of 
ham  shredded,  £  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  onion  chopped,  4  button  mush- 
rooms chopped,  i  clove,  i  bay-leaf,  salt  and  pepper. 


RECIPES  FOR   FISH   SAUCES  255 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly  browned,  then 
add  the  Marsala,  stock,  ham,  mushrooms,  clove  and  bay-leaf.  Cover 
closely,  cook  gently  until  reduced  to  one-half,  then  add  the  br.nvn 
and  tomato  sauces.  Continue  to  cook  slowly  for  10  minutes  longer, 
then  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve  or  tammy  cloth.  Re-heat, 
season  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 

Time> — From  40  to  50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is. 

295._CRAB  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  de  Crabe.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  No.  222,  i  medium-sized  crab, 
i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  cayenne. 

Method. — The  fish  stock  required  for  the  white  sauce  may  be  obtained 
by  simmering  the  crab  shell  (previously  made  clean  and  broken  into 
small  pieces)  in  milk  and  water.  Cut  the  crab  in  small  pieces,  add  it 
with  the  anchovy  essence,  lemon-juice,  and  cayenne  to  the  hot  sauce, 
draw  the  saucepan  aside  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — Altogether  about  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  od.  to  is. 

296.— EEL  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Anguille.) 

Ingredients. — |  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  Ib.  of  eels,  2  ozs.  of  lean  ham, 
i  onion  sliced,  a  few  thin  slices  of  carrot,  i  bay-leaf,  6  peppercorns, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  eel  and  cut  it  into  short  lengths.  Cut  the  ham 
into  small  pieces.  Place  both  eel  and  ham  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  stock, 
onion,  carrot,  bay-leaf,  and  peppercorns,  and  season  to  taste.  Simmer 
gently  for  about  \  an  hour,  then  strain,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — From    35    to   40  minutes.     Average   Cost,    is.    3d. 

297.— EGG  SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Oeufs.)     (For 
Boiled  Fish  and  Boiled  Fowl.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  No.  202,  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper,  2  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Method. — Boil  the  eggs  until  quite  hard  (15  minutes),  and  put  them 
into  cold  water  for  £  an  hour.  Remove  the  shells,  cut  the  whites  in 
small  dice,  and  rub  the  yolks  through  a  wire  sieve.  Have  the  melted 
butler  boiling,  stir  in  the  whites  of  egg,  add  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon- 
juice,  and  use  as  required.  The  sauce  is  usually  poured  over  the  fish, 
and  the  sieved  yolks  of  egg  sprinkled  on  the  top  as  a  garnish.  When 
the  sauce  is  servf  d  separately,  the  yolks  should  be  added  to  it  with  the 
whites. 

Time. —  i    houi       Average  Cost,   50! .     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  Ib.  of  fish. 

298.  -EGG  SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Oeufs.)     (An- 
other Method.) 

Ingredients.  -V  a  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of  flour, 
i  raw  egg,  i  hard-boiled  egg,  salt  and  pepper. 


256         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  for 
3  or  4  minutes,  then  add  the  milk  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Cut  the  hard 
boiled  egg  into  dice  (or  rub  the  yolk  through  a  wire  sieve  if  needed  to 
decorate  the  fish),  add  it,  together  with  any  necessary  seasoning,  to  the 
sauce.  Beat  the  yolk  of  the  raw  egg  slightly,  add  to  it  gradually  2  or  3 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  sauce,  and  when  thoroughly  mixed  stir  into  the 
remainder  of  the  sauce  and  cook  very  gently  for  2  or  3  minutes.  It 
must  not  boil,  or  it  will  curdle. 

Tim3. — 25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d. 

299.— FENNEL    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce    Fenouil.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  No.  202,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
chopped  fennel. 

Method. — Make  the  melted  butter  as  directed.  Wash  the  fennel  well, 
pick  it  from  the  stalks,  put  it  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  until  tender. 
Drain  well,  chop  finely,  and  add  it  to  the  boiling  sauce.  Use  as  re- 
quired. 

Time. — Altogether  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  4d.  for  this 
quantity. 

FIT.!*KKL  (Fr.  fenouil). — This  fragrant  and  elegant  plant  is  found  growing  wild,  chiefly  on  chalky 
soils.  It  is  very  generally  cultivated  in  gardens.  The  teaves  are  finely  divided  and  the  flowers, 
which  are  small,  are  of  a  yellow  colour.  It  grows  to  the  height  of  about  3  feet ;  a  larger  variety, 
Giant  Fennel,  sometimes  attains  the  height  of  15  feet.  Fennel  leaves  are  served  with  fish  either  whole 
or  as  a  sauce.  The  seeds  are  used  in  medicine  as  a  carminative,  and  oil  of  fennel  is  obtained  from 
Italian  fennel,  which  is  cultivated  in  the  south  of  Europe. 

300.— GENEVA  SAUCE.    (Fr.— Sauce  Genevoise.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  fish  stock,  i  glass  of  sherry  or  Madeira 
wine,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  onion  sliced,  2  mushrooms 
sliced,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  4-  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy- 
essence,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  until  slightly 
browned,  add  the  mushrooms,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  the  preparation 
until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour.  Now  add  the  stock,  wine,  lemon- 
juice,  anchovy-essence,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer  gently  for 
abcMt  20  minutes,  pass  through  a  fine  strainer  or  tammy  cloth,  re-heat, 
and  use  as  required. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  9d. 

301.— GENOISE    SAUCE.  (Fr.— Sauce    Genoisc.) 

(For  Fish.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  i  pint  of  fish  stock,  i  gill 
of  claret,  \  a  small  onion,  i  clove  of  garlic,  2  cloves,  2  shallots,  i  bay- 
leaf,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  i  sprig  of  thyme,  2  ozs.  of  anchovy  butter, 
pepper,  salt,  one  pinch  of  castor  sugar. 


RECIPES  FOR   FISH    SAUCES  257 

Method. — Put  some  fish  bones  in  a  stewpan,  together  with  the  fish 
stock  or  water,  the  claret,  sliced  onion,  herbs,  etc.,  cover,  and  reduce 
well.  Add  the  Espagnole  sauce,  boil  up,  and  strain  through  a  fine 
sieve  or  tammy-cloth.  Return  the  sauce  to  a  stewpan,  season  with 
a  little  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  whisk  in  the  anchovy  butter. 
Keep  hot,  but  do  not  let  the  sauce  boil  again.  Serve  separately  with 
boiled  fish,  or  pour  over  braised  fish. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d. 

302.— GENOISE    SAUCE.  (Fr.— Sauce    Genoise.> 

(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  sliced  onion,  i  shallot,  \  a  clove  of  garlic,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  teaspoonful  anchovy 
essence,  i  glass  of  red  burgundy,  i  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  a  pinch  of 
mignonette  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion,  shallot,  garlic, 
and  bouquet,  add  the  wine  and  simmer  until  the  onion  is  cooked.  Then 
add  the  sauce,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  and  pass  through  a  fine  strainer. 
Re-heat,  add  the  anchovy  essence  and  the  pepper. 

Time. — From  30  to  35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9'd. 

303.   -GRATIN  SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce  Gratin.) 

Ingredients,  -i  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  i  glass  of  sherry,  \  an  oz. 
<>t  glaze,  i  tuHopoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  5  or  6  button  mush- 
rooms (fresh  if  possible \  j  shallots  or  i  very  small  onion  finely-chopped, 
i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence. 

Method. — Cut  the  mushrooms  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  a  s. 
pan  with  the  sherry,  glaze,  parsley,  and  shallots,  and  simmer  until 
considerably  reduced.     Add  the  sauce  and  anchovv  ,  cook  for 

5    minutes,   and  serve. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d. 

30/1.— HOLLANDAISE    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce   Hollan- 
daise.)    (For  Fish  and  certain  Vegetables.) 

Ingredients. — i  gill  of  white   sauce.    }  of  a  t^ill  of  good   white  stock, 
rispooniul  of  lemon-juice,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  white  sauce  hot,  add  the  stock  and  yolks  of  eggs 
well  mixed  together,  and  whisk  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  sauce 
tin.  kens,  but  it  must  not  be  allowed  to  boil.  Add  the  lemon-juice, 
and  the  butter  bit  by  bit,  season  to  taste,  and  pass  through  a  line 
strainer  or  tammy-cloth.  Re-heat,  and  use  as  required. 

K 


25S  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — 15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  /d. 

305.—  MATELOTE  SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce  Matelote.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  No.  244,  -|-  of  a  pint  of 
fish  stock,  No.  5,  \  a  glass  of  Burgundy,  f  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  i 
tablespoonful  of  mushroom  liquor,  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  £  a  small 
carrot,  i  small  onion,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  carrot  and  onion  into  very  small  pieces.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  vegetables  and  fry  until  brown.  Add 
the  mushroom  liquor,  fish  stock  and  wine,  simmer  until  reduced  one- 
half,  then  add  the  Espagnole.  Stir  until  it  boils,  then  strain  or  tammy. 
Re-heat,  add  the  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — From  30  to  35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  About    is. 3d. 

Note. — A  simple  form  of  this  sauce  was  originally  made  by  the  French  sailor 
(matelot)  as  a  relish  to  the  fish  he  caught  and  ate.  In  some  cases,  cider  and 
perry  were  substituted  for  the  wine.  The  Norman  matelots  were  very 
celebrated. 

306.— MOUSSELINE    SAUCE    FOR    FISH.          (Fr.- 
Sauce  Mousseline  pour  Poissons.) 

Ingredients. — A  good  handful  of  spinach  or  watercress,  i  tablespoonful 
of  cream,  i  dessertspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pick  and  wash  the  spinach,  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar, 
and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  this  puree,  cream,  vinegar,  salt, 
pepper  and  yolks  of  eggs  into  a  saucepan,  whisk  briskly  over  the  fire 
until  it  becomes  a  light  froth,  then  serve. 

Time. — From  25   to  35   minutes.     Average  Cost,  about   5d. 

307.— MOUSSELINE    SAUCE    (Cold).         (Fr.-- Sauce 
Mousseline  Froide.)     (For  Fish.) 

Ingredients. —  A  good  handful  of  spinach,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  |  of  a 
pint  of  mayonnaise  sauce,  No.  201. 

Method. — Prepare  the  puree  of  spinach  as  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  and  add  to  it  LIGHTLY  the  mayonnaise  sauce 
and  the  puree.  Serve  with  salmon  or  other  fish. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  5d. 

308.— MUSTARD   SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce  Moutarde.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  water,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  2  ozs.  of 


RECIPES  FOR  FISH    SAUCES  259 

butter,  1 1  ozs.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful 
of  French  mustard,  i  teaspoonful  of  English  mustard. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and 
cook  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  water,  and  stir  until  it  boils. 
The  mustard  must  be  very  thick,  otherwise  more  than  2  teaspoonfuls 
will  be  required.  Strain  the  lemon-juice  on  to  the  mustard,  mix  well 
together,  then  pour  it  into  the  sauce,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Add  the 
cream,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  $d. 

309.— MUSTARD  SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce  Moutarde.) 
(For  Fresh  Herrings.) 

Ingredients. —  i  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  gill  of  boiling  water,  i  teaspoonful  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour  and  mustard,  knead  them  well  with  the 
butter,  stir  in  the  boiling  water,  turn  into  a  stewpan,  and  boil  for  5 
minutes.  Add  the  vinegar,  and  serve. 

Time,  10  minutes.       Average  Cost,  2d. 

310.— OYSTER  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — 12  sauce  oysters,  i  oz.  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  £  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce. 

Method. — Open  the  oysters,  remove  the  beards,  and  put  them  with 
their  liquor  and  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan.  Cover  with  a  lid, 
and  cook  for  4  minutes  (they  must  not  be  allowed  to  boil),  then  drain 
well,  and  halve  or  quarter  them.  Reduce  the  liquor  to  half  its 
original  quantity,  then  strain,  and  return  to  the  saucepan.  Add  the 
Bechamel  sauce,  when  hot,  bind  with  the  yolk  of  egg,  then  put  in  the 
oysters  and  lemon-juice.  Stir  until  the  oysters  are  quite  hot,  season 
with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper  if  necessary,  and  serve  in  a  hot  sauce  boat. 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.,  in  addition  to 
the  Bechamel  sauce. 

311.— PARSLEY  SAUCE  FOR  FISH.      (Fr.— Sauce  de 
Persil.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  fish  stock,  No.  5,  or  water,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
|  of  a  oz.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  for  2 
or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  stock  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Simmer  for 
a  few  minutes,  then  season  to  taste,  add  the  parsley,  and  serve.  If 
the  parsley  is  allowed  to  boil  in  the  sauce  it  will  lose  some  of  its  green 
colour. 

Time. — 20  to  25  minutes.     Average  Cost.  i£d.  per  £  pint. 


260  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

312.— ROE  SAUCE.     (Fr.—  Sauce  Laitence.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  cod's  roe  (or  any  other  kind  preferred),  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  made  mustard,  i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  sauce,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  vinegar,  \  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cook  the  roe  in  a  little  water;  when  cool,  remove  any  skin 
there  may  be,  and  bruise  the  roe  with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon. 
Add  the  mustard,  anchovy  essence  and  vinegar,  stir  the  whole  into  the 
prepared  melted  butter,  and  season  to  taste.  Simmer  gently  for  15 
minutes,  then  strain  and  serve. 

Time. — About  %  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  5d. 

313. — SARDINE  SAUCE.     (Fr. — Sauce  aux  Sardines.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  good  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  6 
large  sardines,  the  thin  rind  of  i  lemon,  i  shallot,  i  bay-leaf,  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  and  preserve  the  bones,  chop  the  sardines  rather 
coarsely.  Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  gently  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  add  the  stock.  Bring  to  the  boil,  add  the  fish  bones, 
lemon-rind,  shallot,  bay-leaf,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  a  seasoning 
of  salt  and  pepper.  Simmer  gently  for  15  minutes,  then  strain  over 
the  chopped  sardines,  and  serve  as  an  accompaniment  to  fish. 

Time. — About  %  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is. 

314.— SHRIMP  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Creveltes.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  |-  of  a  pint  of  picked  shrimps, 
i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  a  few  drops  of  lemon- juice,  cayenne. 

Method. — The  fish  stock  required  for  the  white  sauce  may  be  obtained 
by  simmering  the  shrimp  shells  in  milk  and  water.  Add  the  shrimps, 
anchovy  essence,  lemon-juice  and  cayenne  to  the  hot  sauce.  Cover  the 
saucepan,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes  where  the  contents  cannot 
boil,  then  serve. 

Time. — Altogether  about  40  minutes.     Average  Cost  8d. 

3IS._WHITE   WINE   SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce   au   Vin 
Blanc.)     (For  Fish,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — J  pint  fish  stock,  |  pint  of  white  stock,  \  gill  of  white 
wine  (chablis),  £  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  2  ozs,  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs, 
\  a  lemon,  salt  and  white  pepper. 

Method. — If  the  sauce  is  required  for  dressed  fish  the  fish  should  be 
cooked  in  a  mirepoix,  or  foundation  preparation,  of  sliced  onion, 
parsley,  and  savoury  herbs,  as  is  usual,  with  the  appropriate  quantity 
of  moisture — the  liquor  is  strained  and  used  in  the  sauce.  Melt  i  oz. 


FRUIT    SAUCES    AND    S\VKKT    SAUCES 

of   butter,  stir  in  the  flour  and  cook  a   little,  then  dilute  with 

fish  liquor  and  wine,   and   cook  for    15    minutes.     Add,   continuously 

stirring,   the  remainder  of  the  butter  bit  by  bit,  also  the  ypB 

one  at  a  time.     Season  with  a  little  salt  and  a  pinch  of  mignonette-  or 

white  pepper,  and   add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  strain    through   a 

tammy-cloth  or  napkin,  and  use  as  sauce  for  dressed  fish,  etc. 

-tly  served  with  soles,  salmon,  trout,  and  whiting. 
Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average   Cost,    is. 

Fruit  Sauces  and  Sweet  Sauces. 

316.— APPLE  SAUCE.     (Fr—  Sauce  aux  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  apples,  i-J  ozs.  of  sugar  (or  to  taste  ,   i  oz.  of 
butter,  a  little  water  if  NECESSARY. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  put  them  into  a  sam 
with  the  sugar,  butter,  and  a  very  little  water,  and  cook  them  until 
tender.     Add  more  sugar  if  necessary,  be  (on- 

Time. — 30  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  41!.  to  5<I. 

317.  -  APRICOT  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce   a  1'Abricot.) 

Ingredients. --3  ozs.  of  apricot  marmalade  or  jam,    i    pint  <>t   w 

ss  «it  sherry,  i  oz.  of  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  as : 
Method.      Put   tin  and  jam  into  a  saucepan,  .m •  i 

up.     Mix   the  sherry  and   arrowroot    together,   pour   the  mixtui- 

•ucepan,  stir  until  it   thi<  l«-n>.  .in<! 
Time.      15  to  jo  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  in  ;d.  for  ti  nv. 

318.— ARROWROOT  SAUCE.     </<>,- Sauce  Maranta.) 

Ingredients,      i  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  i  t 

:>ing  dessertspoonful  of  arrowroot,  i  good  tablespoonful  of  castor 
sugar,  or  to  taste,  nutmeg  or  cinnamon  to  flavour. 

Method. — Blend   the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  cold   u 
pour  over  it  the  boiling  water,  stirring  meanwhile.     Turn  into  a  sauce- 
pan, add  lemon-juice,  sugar,  and  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg  or  cinnamon, 
and   Minnvr   lor  .,  or   4    mtnuu->.     This  sauce   may   be  uth  a 

v  of  puddings,  and    the    flavour    v.med    by    the  addition  Oi 

Time.     About  8  minutes.     Average  Cost, 

"d  from  the  rootstocks  of  several  species  ot  plant*  of  th? 

•  izilian  arrow 

swego  arrowroot  from  Indian  corn  ;  English  .u 
Und  arrowroot,  or  sago,  from  the  coots  of   Ann*  mafula: 
is  esteemed  •  t  is  prepared  by  *•, 

Uerwardv  by  mean*  of  water,  is  separated  fi 
.:sg  passed  through  a  sieve  and  again  washed,  the  mass  is  allowed  to  settle,  the 

1  'ocomes  arrowroot.  Potato  starch  is  sometim- 

anadtil'--  : hat  Renuinc  arrowroot  when  formed  Into  a  i 

ret.un  :'  ->c  adulterated  article  will  become  thin  and  resemble  milk  in  the 


262  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

319.— ARROWROOT  SAUCE,  CLEAR. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  cider  (equal  quantities  of  wine  and 
water,  or  any  kind  of  fruit-juice  may  be  substituted),  i  level  dessert- 
spoonful of  arrowroot,  sugar  to  taste,  cinnamon,  lemon-rind,  or  other 
flavouring  ingredient. 

Method. — Simmer  the  flavouring  ingredient  in  the  cider  for  10  minutes. 
Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water,  strain  the  cider 
into  it,  stirring  meanwhile,  and  replace  in  the  saucepan.  Add  sugar 
to  taste,  simmer  gently  for  4  or  5  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.    Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d.,  when  cider  is  used. 

320.— BRANDY  SAUCE.     (Fr.—  Sauce  au  Cognac.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  water,  \  a  wineglass  of  brandy,  4  ozs.  of  loaf 
sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  cornflour,  nutmeg  if  liked. 

Method. — Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  of  the  water,  and 
put  the  rest  into  a  copper  saucepan  with  the  sugar.  Boil  and  reduce 
to  a  thin  syrup,  skimming  occasionally,  add  the  cornflour  to  the  syrup, 
stir  until  it  boils,  then  add  the  brandy,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  %  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  from  3^d.  to  4d. 

321.— BRANDY  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  au  Cognac.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot  or  corn- 
flour, i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  a  wineglassful  of 
brandy. 

Method. — Mix  the  arrowroot  and  milk  smoothly  together,  pour  into 
a  small  saucepan,  and  stir  until  it  boils,  add  the  sugar,  and  draw 
aside  to  cool  slightly.  Mix  the  brandy  and  egg  together,  pour  the 
mixture  into  the  sauce,  stir  until  it  thickens,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d.  for  this  quantity. 

322.— CARAMEL  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  au  Caramel.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  syrup,  i  oz.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  dessertspoon- 
ful of  arrowToot,  vanilla-essence,  cream. 

Method. — Brown  the  sugar  in  a  copper  saucepan,  add  the  syrup, 
and  boil  gently  for  10  minutes.  Blend  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with 
a  little  cold  cream,  stir  it  into  the  sauce,  simmer  for  3  or  4  minutes 
longer,  then  add  vanilla-essence  to  taste.  Strain,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 25    minutes.     Average  Cost,   4d. 

323.— CHANTILLY     APPLE     SAUCE.       (Fr.— Sauce 
Chantilly.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cooking  apples,  i-J-  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  oi 
butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream. 


FRUIT   SAUCES   AND    SWEET    SAUCES  263 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water.  Add  the  butter  and  sugar, 
cook  gently  until  quite  tender,  then  pass  the  preparation  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  stir  it  into  the  apple  puree,  and  use 
as  required. 

Time. — From  45  to  60  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

324.— CHAUDEAU  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  Chaudeau.) 

Ingredients. — 4  yolks  of  eggs,  i  wineglassful  of  sherry,  i  wineglassful 
of  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  saucepan,  and  whisk  them 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  thick  and  frothy.  This  sauce  may  be 
served  with  plum  pudding. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  /d. 

325.— CHERRY  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Cerises.) 

Proceed  the  same  as  for  venison  sauce  No.  286,  adding  2  ozs.  of  glac6 
cherries  cut  in  halves  or  quarters. 

326.— CHOCOLATE  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  au  Choco- 
lat.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  essence,  i  oz.  of  crcme  de  riz  or  rice  flour,  2  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  grated  chocolate. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar,  chocolate,  and  water  into  a  saucepan,  and 
stir  until  it  boils.  Mix  the  creme  de  riz  smoothly  with  a  little  cold 
water,  pour  it  into  the  saucepan  and  simmer  for  5  minutes.  Pass 
through  a  tammy-cloth  or  fine  strainer,  add  the  brandy  and  vanilla,  and 
serve. 

Time. — From  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  8d.  to  9d.  for  this 
quantity. 

327.— CHOCOLATE  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  au  Choco- 
lat.)     (Economical.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  milk,  3  ozs.  of  grated  chocolate,  i  oz.  of 
sugar  (or  to  taste),  i  teaspoonful  of  cornflour,  i  teaspoonful  vanilla 
essence. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  chocolate  and  sugar  in  the  hot  milk,  and 
simmer  for  a  few  minutes.  Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk 
or  water,  pour  it  into  the  saucepan,  stir  and  cook  for  3  minutes,  add 
the  vanilla  essence,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  sd.  to  gd. 


264  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

328.— CITRON  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Citron.) 

Ingredients, — \  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz. 
of  cornflour,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  the  finely-chopped  rind  of  \  a  lemon. 

Method. — Blend  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  cornflour  together, 
add  the  sugar  and  lemon-rind,  and  stir  in  the  boiling  milk.  Whisk  the 
preparation  over  the  fire  until  it  becomes  creamy,  then  use  as  re- 
quired. 

Time. — From  10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d. 

329.— COFFEE  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  au  Cafe.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  raw  coffee  berries,  i  dessertspoonful  of  arrow- 
root or  cornflour,  i  glass  of  brandy,  sugar  to  taste,  ^  a  pint  of  boiling 
water. 

Method. — Roast  the  coffee  berries  in  a  pan  over  a  quick  fire  until 
well-browned,  then  pound  them  in  a  mortar.  Pour  the  boiling  water 
over  the  prepared  coffee,  let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain  it 
into  a  saucepan.  Blend  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  the  brandy, 
stir  it  into  the  coffee,  sweeten  to  taste,  simmer  gently  for  5  minutes, 
then  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

330.— CORNFLOUR  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  (level)  of  castor  sugar, 
i  dessertspoonful  (level)  of  cornflour,  the  rind  of  one  lemon. 

Method. — Remove  the  outer  skin  of  the  lemon  in  extremely  thin 
shavings  with  a  sharp  knife,  put  them  into  the  milk,  and  simmer  for 
5  minutes.  Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk  or  water  ; 
strain  the  milk  and  add  it  to  the  cornflour,  stirring  all  the  time.  Re- 
turn to  the  saucepan,  add  the  sugar,  boil  for  i  minute,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2|d. 

331.— CRANBERRY  SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce  aux  Ai- 
relles   Rouge.)       (For  Roast  Turkey,  Fowl, 

etc.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  cold  water,  i  pint  of  cranberries,  2  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  red  currant  jelly,  £  a  glass  of  port 
wine. 

Method. — Wash  the  cranberries  in  cold  water.  Put  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  the  water,  and  simmer  gently  for  \  an  hour,  then  add  the 
sugar,  wine,  and  red  currant  jelly.  Boil  again,  and  strain.  Serve  cither 
hot  or  cold  in  a  sauccboat  or  glass  dish. 

Time. — 35  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  ;d.  to  gd.  for  this  quantity. 


FRUIT   SAUCES   AND   SWEET    SAUCES  265 

332.— CUSTARD   SAUCE.    (Fr.— Creme    cuiLe.)     (For 
Puddings  or  Tarts.) 

Ingredients.— i  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  brandy,  bay-leaf  if  liked. 

Method.— Boil  the  milk  and  bay-leaf,  add  the  sugar,  and  cool  slightly. 
Beat  the  eggs  well,  pour  the  milk  on  to  them,  and  strain  into  a  jug. 
Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  in  which  to  place  the  jug, 
keep  stirring  until  the  mixture  thickens,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil, 
or  it  will  curdle.  Stir  in  the  brandy,  and  serve. 

Tim3. — 25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  yd. 

333.— FROTHY  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Creme  fouettee.) 

Ingredients. —  i  wineglassful  of  sherry,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
i  egg,  £  of  a  pint  of  boiling  milk. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  boiling  milk,  and  let  it  cool 
slightly.  Beat  the  egg  and  sherry  well  together,  add  the  hot  milk  and 
mix  well.  Stand  the  basin  in  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water,  whisk  briskly 
until  the  preparation  thickens  and  becomes  very  frothy,  and  serve  at 
once. 

Time. — From  15  to  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  $d.  to  6d. 

334.— GERMAN  CUSTARD  SAUCE.  (Fr.— Creme  cuite 
a  1'Allemande.) 

Ingredients. — The  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i  glass  of  sherry,  2  or  3  lumps  of 
sugar,  the  rind  of  £  a  lemon. 

Method. — Rub  the  sugar  on  the  lemon  rind,  then  crush,  and  di- 
in  the  wine.      Put  all  the  ingredients  int-t  a  small  saucepan,  and  whisk 
BRISKLY  over  a  slow  fire  until  it  forms  a  thick  froth,  but  take  care  thai 
it  does  not  curdle.     Serve  at  once. 

Time. — From   10  to   15   minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d.   to  6d. 

335.— GINGER  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  au  Gingembre.) 

Ingredients. — i  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger.  4  t.iblespoonfuK  d 
castor  sugar,  2  or  3  strips  of  lemon-rind,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  2  tablespoontuls  of  brandy  or  wine,  \  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Put  the  ginger,  sugar,  lemon-rind  and  water  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  simmer  the  ingredients  gently  for  15  minutes.  Strain,  return 
to  the  stewpan,  add  the  brandy  and  lemon-juice,  re-heat,  and  serve. 

Time.— About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d.  to  Od. 


266  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

336.— GOOSEBERRY      SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce      aux 
Groseilles.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  green  gooseberries,  %  of  a  pint  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Barely  cover  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan  with  water,  put 
in  the  gooseberries  and  cook  slowly  until  tender,  then  rub  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir  in.  the  flour  and  cook 
well,  add  the  milk  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Add  the  gooseberry  puree 
and  the  sugar,  make  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  4^d.  to  5d.  for  this  quantity. 

The  GOOSEBERRY  (Fr.  groseille),  the  common  name  for  the  well-known  and  wholesome  fruit  of 
ribes  grossularia,  a  prickly  shrub,  indigenous  to  Britain,  many  parts  of  Europe  and  North  America. 
The  fruit  varies  in  flavour,  and  is  red.  yellow,  green,  or  whitish,  and  hairy  or  smooth  on  its  surface. 
It  is  used  largely  for  preserves,  and  for  pies,  puddings,  etc.  Malic  and  citric  acid  are  found  in  the 
gooseberry,  and  from  the  berries  a  champagne  is  manufactured. 

337.— GOOSEBERRY     SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce      aux 
Groseilles.)    (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — |-  of  a  pint  of  water,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  green  gooseberry 
jam,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  little  apple-green  or  spinach- 
green  colouring. 

Method. — Put  the  water,  jam  and  lemon  juice  into  a  saucepan,  and 
bring  to  the  boil.  Strain  or  pass  through  a  tammy-cloth,  re-heat,  add 
a  little  colouring  if  desirable,  and  serve. 

Time.— About  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  3d.  for  this  quantity. 

338.— JAM  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce  au  Confiture.) 

Ingredients. — i  good  tablespoonful  of  apricot,  raspberry  or  other 
jam,  ^  of  a  pint  of  water,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  sugar  to  taste, 
carmine  or  cochineal,  if  necessary. 

Method. — Put  the  water  and  jam  into  a  small  saucepan,  add  sugar 
to  taste,  and  make  thoroughly  hot.  Put  in  the  lemon-juice,  and  a  few 
drops  of  colouring,  if  necessary  strain,  and  serve  with  sweet  puddings, 
etc. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d.  to  3d. 

339.— LEMON   BRANDY.    (Fr.— Cognac   au    Citron.) 
(For  Flavouring  Custards.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  cooking  brandy,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  oz. 
of  loaf  sugar,  i  lemon. 


FRUIT   SAUCES   AND   SWEET   SAUCES  267 

Method. — Remove  from  the  lemon  the  thinnest  possible  rind,  as  the 
least  particle  of  the  white  pith  would  spoil  the  flavour.  Put  the  brandy 
into  a  bottle,  add  the  lemon-rind,  and  let  it  infuse  for  24  hours,  then 
strain  and  return  to  the  bottle.  Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together, 
skim  well,  and  when  perfectly  cold,  add  it  to  the  brandy.  A  dessert- 
spoonful of  this  will  be  found  an  excellent  flavouring  for  boiled  custards. 

Time. — Altogether  26  or  27  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 

340. —LEMON   SAUCE.        (Fr.— Sauce   Citron.)     (For 
sweet  Puddings.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  water,  i  glass  of  sherry,  the  juice  and  rind 
of  i  lemon,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  3  or  4 
lumps  of  sugar. 

Method. — Rub  the  sugar  on  to  the  lemon  until  all  the  outer  rind  is 
removed.  Squeeze  and  strain  the  juice.  Melt  the  butter,  stir  in 
the  flour,  and  cook  well  without  browning.  Add  the  water,  stir 
until  it  boils,  then  put  in  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice.  Mix  the  yolks 
of  eggs  and  sherry  together,  let  the  sauce  cool  slightly,  then  pour  them 
in,  stir  until  the  sauce  thickens,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d.  for  this 
quantity. 

341.— LEMON  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Citron.)     (Econ- 
omical.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  i  lemon,  i  oz.  of  loaf  sugar, 
I  dessertspoonful  of  arrowroot. 

Method. — Rub  the  sugar  on  the  lemon  until  the  outer  rind  is  removed. 
Have  the  water  boiling  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  sugar.  Mix  the  arrowroot 
smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water,  pour  it  into  the  saucepan,  and  stir 
until  it  boils.  Add  the  lemon-juice,  and  more  sugar  if  necessary,  and 
serve. 

Time. — From  20  to  25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d.  for  this  quantity. 

342.— MARMALADE    SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce    Marme- 
lade.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  water,  i  glass  of  sherry,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  marmalade,  i  dessertspoonful  of  sugar  (or  to  taste),  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice. 

Method. — Put  the  water  and  marmalade  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir 
until  it  boils.  Add  the  sugar,  lemon-juice  and  sherry,  stir  until  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  and  serve. 

Time. — Alpout  10  minutes,     Average  Cost,  5d.  with  the  sherry. 


268  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

343._MARMALADE    SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sauce   Marme- 
lade.)     (Economical.) 

Ingredients. — %  a  pint  of  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  marmalade,  i 
tablespoonful  of  sugar,  i  large  teaspoonful  of  cornflour,  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Boil  the  water.  Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little 
cold  water,  add  it  to  the  boiling  water,  stirring  all  the  time.  Put  in 
the  sugar  and  marmalade,  simmer  for  5  minutes,  add  the  lemon-juice, 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

344.— ORANGE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  a  1'Orange.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  glass  of  curacoa,  2  yolks  of  eggs, 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  small  orange. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk,  add  the  sugar,  the  grated  orange  rind, 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  orange-juice,  simmer  for  5  minutes,  then  cool 
slightly.  Beat  the  eggs  with  a  little  milk,  pour  them  into  the  saucepan, 
stir  until  they  begin  to  thicken,  then  add  the  cura9oa,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  |  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  ;d.  to  8d.  for  this  quantity. 

345.— ORANGE  SYRUP.     (Fr.— Sirop  d'Orange.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  orange  juice,  the  rind  of  2  oranges,  \  of  a  Ib. 
of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  rind  in  VERY  thin  strips  ;  they  should  be  almost 
transparent.  Put  the  sugar,  orange-juice,  and  rind  into  a  saucepan, 
and  simmer  very  gently  for  about  |-  an  hour.  Remove  the  scum  as  it 
rises.  Strain,  and  when  cold,  bottle  for  use.  A  little  of  this  will  be 
found  an  excellent  flavouring  for  sweet  sauces  and  custard. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.   to  8d. 

346.— PLUM  PUDDING  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  glass  of  brandy,  i  glass  of  Madeira,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
castor  sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  butter  and  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar  into  a 
basin,  and  let  it  stand  on  or  near  the  stove  until  the  butter  is  melted. 
Stir  in  the  brandy  and  Madeira,  add  more  sugar  if  necessary,  and  when 
hot  enough  to  use,  either  pour  it  over  the  pudding  or  serve  separately 
in  a  tureen. 

Time* — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  ioclf 


FRUIT   SAUCES   AND    SWEET    SAUCES  269 

347. —RASPBERRY  SAUCE.     (Fr.  Sauce  Framboise.) 

Ingredients.— J  of  a  pint  of  water,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  raspberry  jam, 
i  glass  of  sherry,  sugar  to  taste,  a  few  drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal. 

Method. — Put  the  water,  jam,  and  3  or  4  lumps  of  sugar  into  a  sauce- 
pan, and  simmer  for  10  minutes,  then  add  the  sherry,  and  strain.  Add 
sugar  to  taste,  and  a  few  drops  of  colouring  if  required,  and  serve. 

Time. — About   15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from  sd.   to  6d. 

348.— RASPBERRY  SAUCE.  (Fr.— Sauce  Framboise.) 
(Economical.) 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  jam,  i 
tablespoonful  of  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  10  minutes,  then  add 
the  jam  and  lemon-juice,  and  simmer  a  few  minutes  longer.  A  lew 
drops  of  cochineal  will  brighten  the  colour,  but  are  not  essential. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d.  to  2£d.  for  this  quantity. 

349.— RED-CURRANT  SAUCE.      (For  puddings  or  for 
Venison,  Hare,   etc.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  jar  of  red-currant  jelly,  i  glass  of  port  wine. 

Method. — Put  the  wine  and  jelly  into  a  small  saucepan,  let  them  slowly 
come  to  the  boil,  and  serve  when  the  jelly  is  dissolved. 

Time. — 5  minutes.     Average  Cost,  rod. 

350.— SAGO  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Sauce  Sagou.) 

Ingredients. — i  tablespoonful  of  large  -  :  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 

I  glass  of  sherry,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  sugar  to  taste,  a 
few  thin  strips  of  lemon-rind. 

Method. —  Add  the  sago  and  lemon-rind  to  the  boiling  w.iter,  and 

simmer  gc-ntly  until  the  sajjo  is  quite  clear.      Re-move-  the  lemon-rind, 
add  the  sherry  and  lemon-juice,  sweeten  to  taste,  make  quite  hot, 

and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  $d. 

351.— SAUCE  FOR  PLUM  PUDDING.     (Soyers.) 

Ingredients. — .}  of  a  pint  of  milk,  2  glasses  of  brandy,  i   tablospoonful 
tor  sugar,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  a  very  little  grated  lemon-rind. 


270  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

' 
Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  in  a  saucepan,  set  the  pan  on  the 

fire,  and  whisk  until  the  contents  thicken  and  become  frothy.     Serve 

at  once. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is. 

352.— SAUCE  FOR  SWEET  PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. — \  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  pounded  sugar,  a  wine- 
glassful  of  brandy  or  rum. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  the  pounded  sugar  and 
brandy  or  rum;  stir  until  the  whole  is  thoroughly  mixed,  and  serve. 
This  sauce  may  either  be  poured  round  the  pudding  or  served  in  a 
tureen,  according  to  taste. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost. — 8d. 

353.— SAUCE  FOR  XMAS  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — i  wineglass  of  rum,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  3  whites  of  eggs, 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  \  gill  of  water. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  gill  of 
water,  stand  it  in  a  larger  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  whisk  briskly 
until  the  whole  becomes  thick  and  frothy.  Serve  at  once. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.      Average  Cost,  9d.  or  lod.  for  this  quantity. 

3S4._SAUCE     FOR     XMAS    PUDDING.          (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  10  bitter  almonds,  i 
wineglassful  of  brandy. 

Method. — Blanch  and  finely  chop  the  almonds,  then  pound  them 
well  in  a  mortar.  Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the 
almonds  and  brandy,  continue  to  beat  until  the  preparation  has  the 
appearance  of  clotted  cream,  then  use  as  required. 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is. 

3SS._SAUCE     FOR     XMAS   PUDDING.         (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  brandy  or  sherry,  £  of  a  pint  of  boiling 
water,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  level  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot. 

Method. — Blend  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cold  water,  and  pour  over  it  the  boiling  water,  stirring  meanwhile. 


FRUIT    SAUCES    AND    SWEET    SAUCES  271 

Put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the  brandy  or  wine  and  sugar,  boil  gently 
for  2  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

356.—  SOYER'S    SAUCE    FOR    PLUM    PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — \  of  a  pint  of  brandy,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  the  yolks  of 
3  eggs,  i  dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  a  good  pinch  of  very  finely- 
grated  lemon-rind. 

Method. — Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  milk  well  together,  add  the 
sugar  and  lemon-rind,  and  turn  the  whole  into  a  small  saucepan. 
Whisk  until  the  mixture  thickens,  then  add  the  brandy,  continue  to 
whisk  until  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve  separately  or  poured  over  the 
pudding. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d. 

357.— SWEET  MELTED  BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  milk  or  water,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of 
flour,  \  an  oz.  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook 
well  without  browning.  Add  the  milk  or  water  and  stir  until  it  boils. 
Simmer  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  sugar,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and 
serve. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2^d.,  if  made  with  milk. 

358.— VANILLA  SAUCE.     (Fr.  Sauce  a  la  Vanille.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  i  egg,  i  oz.  of  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  cornflour, 
a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method.— Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  \s-ilh  a  little  of  the  milk.  ! 
ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  put  the  remainder  of  the  milk  into 
a  jug,  and  stand  the  jug  in  the  boiling  water  until  the  milk  is  quite 
hot.  Add  the  sugar  to  the  milk,  also  add  the  moistened  cornflour  and 
stir  until  it  thickens.  Beat  the  egg  in  a  basin,  and  add  2  or  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  sauce  to  it  gradually.  Pour  into  the  jug  and  stir 
for  a  few  minutes  to  cook  the  egg,  then  add  the  Vanilla  essence,  and 
serve. 

Time. — 40  to  60  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  3^d. 

359.— WINE    SAUCE.     (Fr.  Sauce  au  Vin.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  glass  of  sherry,  i  tablcspoonful 
of  any  kind  of  jam,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  lemon-juice  to 
taste. 


272  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  and  water  into  a  saucepan,  and  simmer  for 
10  minutes,  then  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  bring  to  the  boil, 
strain,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  $d. 

360.— WINE  SAUCE.     (Fr.—  Sauce   au  Vin.)     (Econ- 
omical.) 

Ingredients. — |  a  pint  of  water,  i  large  glass  of  sherry,  i  tablespoonful 
(level)  of  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot. 

Method. — Mix  the  arrowroot  with  a  little  of  the  water  and  boil  the 
remainder,  pour  it  on  to  the  arrowroot,  stirring  all  the  time.  Return 
to  the  saucepan,  add  the  wine  and  sugar,  boil  up,  and  serve.  The  colour 
may  be  improved  by  the  addition  of  a  few  drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d.  to  4d.  for  this  quantity. 

361.— WHITE  SAUCE  FOR  PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. — |  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour,  sugar 
to  taste,  2  or  3  thin  strips  of  lemon-rind,  salt. 

Method. — Blend  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  and 
put  the  remainder  into  a  saucepan.  Add  the  lemon-rind  and  a  pinch 
of  salt,  simmer  gently  for  10  or  15  minutes,  then  strain  over  the  blended 
cornflour,  stirring  meanwhile.  Return  to  the  saucepan,  sweeten  to 
taste,  simmer  gently  for  5  minutes,  and  use  as  required.  Any  other 
flavouring  may  be  substituted  for  the  lemon-rind. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d.  to  2|d. 

'362.— ZWETSCHEN  SAUCE.     (Prune  Sauce.) 

Ingredients. — J  a  Ib.  of  French  prunes,  i  glass  of  port  or  sherry, 
I  tablespoonful  of  lemon- juice,  the  finely  grated  rind  of  \  a  lemon, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Simmer  the  prunes  until  tender,  in  just  enough  water  to 
cover  them.  When  cool,  crack,  and  preserve  the  kernels.  Replace  the 
fruit  and  kernels  in  the  stewpan,  add  sugar  to  taste,  cinnamon,  Jemon- 
rind  and  lemon-juice,  cook  gently  for  10  minutes,  and  pass  through 
a  fine  hair  sieve.  Re-heat,  add  the  wine,  and  a  little  water  if  too 
thick,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About   i  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

CINNAMON  (Fr.  cinnamome). — The  cinnamon  tree,  Laurus  cinnanomum,  is  a  valuable  and  beautiful 
member  of  the  Lauraceae,  or  laurel  family.  Its  trunk  is  short  and  straight,  with  wide  spreading 
branches,  and  a  smooth,  ash-like  bark.  H  attains  a  height  of  20  to  30  feet.  The  leaves  are 
oval-shaped,  3  to  5  inches  long  ;  the  flowers  are  in  panicles,  with  six  small  petals  of  a  pale-yellow 
colour.  The  fruit,  which  resembles  an  acorn,  is  soft  and  insipid,  and  of  a  deep-blue.  It  incloses  a 
nut,  the  kernel  of  which  germinates  after  falling.  The  leaves,  fruit  and  root  of  the  cinnamon  all  yield 
a  volatile  oil,  oil  of  cinnamon.  The  bark  of  the  tree — the  thinner  bark  is  the  most  esteemed — 
furnishes  the  well-known  cinnamon  used  by  cooks  and  confectioners.  From  the  fragrant  fatty 
substance  of  the  fruit  candles  were  formerly  made  exclusively  for  the  King  of  Ceylon.  Cinnamon  is 
employed  in  medicine  as  a  carminative  and  stomachic  remedy. 


RECIPES  FOR  MISCELLANEOUS  SAUl  K> 


Miscellaneous  Sauces. 

363.— BENTON  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  i  tablcspoonful  of  scraped 
horseradish,  I  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  I  teaspoonful  of  castor 
sugar. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together,  and  serve  as  an 
accompaniment  to  either  hot  or  cold  roast  beef. 

Time. — From  10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

364.— BLACK  BUTTER  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 1£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Cook  the  butter  in  a  frying  or  saute-pan  until  it  acquire- 
a  nut-brown  colour,  then  add  the  parsley  and  vinegar,  cook  for  i  minute 
longer,  and  serve. 

Time. — 5  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

365.— BOAR'S  HEAD  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  dissolved  red-currant  jelly,  j  of  a  pint  of 
port  wine,  4  oranges,  3  lumps  of  sugar,  i  finely-chopped  .^h.illot,  i 
mustardspoonful  of  mixed  mustard,  pepper. 

Method. — Shred  the  rind  of  2  oranges  into  very  fine  strips,  and  rub 
the  lumps  of  sugar  over  the  rinds  of  the  remaining  two.  I'm  th<-  rm<l 
and  sugar  into  the  liquid  jelly,  add  the  wine,  shallot,  must. ml,  and  a 
liberal  seasoning  of  pepper,  and  use  as  required,  or  the  sauce  may  be 
put  into  well-corked  bottles  and  stored  for  use. 

Time. — 30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  lod. 

366.— CAMBRIDGE  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  4  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  4  fillets  of  anchovies,    i 
spoonful  of  capers,  i  dessertspoonful  of  French  mustard,  i  teaspoonful 
of  English  mustard,  i   teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  a  sprig 
of  tarragon,  a  sprig  of  chervil,  a  pinch  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Pound  all  the  ingredients  except  the  parsley  well  together, 
then  pa  s  through  a  hai:  If  too  stiff,  add  a  little  oil  and  vinegar 

gradually  until  the   consistency  resembles  that  of  mayonnaise  sauce. 


274  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Stir  in  the  parsley,  and  keep  on  ice  until  required.     This  is  an  excellent 
sauce  to  serve  with  cold  meat. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  gd. 


367.— CARRACK  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  vinegar,  8  dessertspoonfuls  of  walnut  pickle, 
5  dessertspoonfuls  of  Indian  soy,  5  dessertspoonfuls  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  3  dessertspoonfuls  of  mango  pickle  sliced,  2  cloves  of  garlic 
finely-chopped. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  large  bottle,  let  it  stand  for 
a  month,  shaking  it  2  or  3  times  daily.  At  the  end  of  this  time  the 
sauce  will  be  ready  for  use,  but  it  will  keep  good  for  a  length  of  time 
in  well-corked  bottles. 

Time. — i  month.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 


368.— CAYENNE  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  vinegar,  \  an  oz.  of  cayenne  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  vinegar  and  cayenne  together  in  a  bottle,  let  it 
stand  for  i  month,  shaking  the  preparation  daily.  When  ready, 
strain  into  well-corked  bottles,  and  store  for  use. 

Time. — i  month.     Average  Cost,  about  6d. 


369.— CHEESE  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  £  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of 
flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-grated  cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook 
the  mixture  for  5  minutes  without  browning,  and  add  the  milk.  Season 
to  taste,  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  then  stir  in  the  cheese,  and  use 
as  required. 

Time.— 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d. 


370.— DEMI-GLACE  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce  (see  page  240),  £  of  a  pint  of 
good  gravy,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  Espagnole  sauce  as  directed,  boil  until  well 
reduced,  then  add  the  gravy,  simmer  for  about  10  minutes,  season  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 15  minutes.     Average  Cost,   8d. 


RECIPES  FOR  MISCELLANEOUS  SAUCES  275 

371.— EPICUREAN  SAUCE. 

Ingredients.— i  gill  of  mayonnaise  sauce,  No.  201,  £  a  gill  of  aspic 
jelly,  (see  jellies),  i- a  gill  of  cream,  i  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar, 
i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy-essence,  i  dessertspoonful  of  chopped 
gherkins,  i  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  chutney,  £  a  cucumber,  salt, 
pepper,  sugar. 

Method. — Peel  the  cucumber  thinly,  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and 
cook  till  tender  in  salted  water.  Drain  of!  the  water,  and  rub  the 
cucumber  through  a  fine  sieve.  Carefully  mix  the  mayonnaise  with 
the  cream,  anchovy-essence,  gherkins,  and  chutney.  Mix  the  cu- 
cumber puree  with  the  vinegar  and  the  aspic,  which  should  be 
dissolved  but  almost  cold.  Blend  both  mixtures  together.  Season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  castor  sugar,  and  serve  with  fish,  cold 
meat,  or  vegetables  such  as  asparagus,  green  artichokes,  etc. 
This  also  makes  a  nice  dressing  for  fish  salads. 

Time. — 40  minutes.     Cost,  about  is. 

372.— FISH  SAUCE.     (Fr—  Sauce  Poisson.) 

Ingredients.— i  quart  of  malt  vinegar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  walnut 
ketchup,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  soy,  i  oz.  of  cayenne,  i  clove  of  garlic, 
2  shallots  sliced. 

Method.— Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  large  bottle,  and  shake  them 
daily  for  a  fortnight.  When  ready,  strain  into  small  bottles,  cork 
securely,  and  store  for  use. 

Time. — 14  days.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

373.— HARVEY  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. —  i   quart  of  malt  vinegar,  £  of  a  pint  of    In 
£  of  a  pint  of  mushroom  or  walnut  vinegar,  6  anchovies  finely-cho, 
i  clove  of  garlic  bruised,  £  of  an  oz.  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Put   all    the   ingredients   into   an    earthenware   jar,   cover 
closely,  let   the  mixture  remain  for   i    month,  stirring  it    j 
daily.      When  ready,  strain  into  small  bottles,  cork  securely,  and  store 
or  use. 

Time. —  i  month.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 

374.— HERB  SAUCE. 

Ingredients.— i  stick  of  horseradish  finely  scraped,  2  shallots  shredded, 
sprigs  each  of  marjoram,  thyme,  basil,  and  tarragon,  4  cloves, 
poonful    of    caramel    browning,    No.    155,   i    tablespoonful    of 
lemon-juice,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method.     Simmer  all  these  ingredients  together  for  £  an  hour,  an. I 


276  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

when  quite  cold  strain  into  small  bottles.     Cork  and  seal  securely, 
and  store  for  use.     This  sauce  will  be  found  useful   for  flavouring 
gravies  and  stews. 
Time. — 40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

MARJORAM  (Fr.  Marjolaine).  There  are  several  species  of  marjoram,  which  grows  wild  on 
chalky  soils  of  Britain,  and  is  one  of  the  commonest  of  ornamental  wild  plants.  The  species  used 
for  culinary  purposes  is  the  Sweet  Marjoram,  a  native  of  Southern  Europe.  It  is  cultivated  in 
gardens,  and  when  it  blossoms  it  is  cut  and  the  leaves,  which  have  an  agreeable  aromatic  flavour, 
are  dried.  Marjoram  is  a  favourite  ingredient  in  stuffings,  soups,  sauces,  etc. 

375.— HESSIAN  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  sour  cream  (about),  i  tablespoonful  of 
grated  horseradish,  i  tablespoonful  of  fine  breadcrumbs,  milk,  sugar,  salt. 

Method. — Soak  the  breadcrumbs  in  just  as  much  milk  as  they  will 
absorb,  add  the  grated  horseradish,  and  a  pinch  of  salt  and  sugar. 
Add  cream  gradually  until  the  desired  consistency  is  obtained,  and  serve 
as  an  accompaniment  to  roast  beef  or  beef  steak. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

376.— JELLY  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. —  i  small  pot  of  red-currant  jelly,  i  glass  of  port  wine. 
Method. — Dissolve    the   red-currant    jelly,    add    the   wine,    make   it 
thoroughly  hot,  and  serve  as  an  accompaniment  to  venison. 
Time. — \  an  hour.    Average  Cast,  is. 

377.— LEAMINGTON  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  vinegar,  i  pint  of  walnut-juice.  \  a  pint  of 
Indian  soy,  £  of  a  pint  of  port  wine,  i  oz.  of  shallots,  \  of  an  oz.  of 
garlic,  |  an  oz.  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Procure  young  green  walnuts,  pound  them  to  a  pulp, 
sprinkle  liberally  with  salt,  and  let  them  remain  for  3  days,  stirring 
at  frequent  intervals.  Strain  the  juice  obtained,  measure  and  add 
the  rest  of  the  ingredients  in  the  proportions  stated  above,  the  garlic 
and  shallots  being  previously  pounded  or  finely-chopped.  Turn  the 
whole  into  a  large  jar,  cover  closely  for  3  weeks,  then  strain  into 
small  bottles,  cork  and  seal  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

Time. — About  i  month.     Average  Cost,  2S.  lod.  to  33. 

378.— LEGHORN  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 3  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  salad-oil,  vinegar,  tarragon 
vinegar,  2  anchovies  pounded  and  sieved,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  nutmeg,  pepper. 

Method.— Crush  the  yolks  with  a  wooden  spoom  in  a  basin,  add  salad- 
oil,  drop  by  drop  at  first,  until  the  preparation  has  the  consistency 


RECIPES  FOR  MISCELLANEOUS  SAUCES          277 

of  very  thick  cream.     Stir  in  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  a  little  pepper,  an- 
chovies, parsley,  and  vinegar  to  taste.     Set  on  ice  until  wanted. 
Time. — 30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d. 

379.— LEMON  SAUCE.     (For  Fowls,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — i-  a  pint  of  chicken  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  cream,  the  thinly-peeled  rind  and  juice  of  I  lemon,  i£  ozs.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Simmer  the  lemon-rind  and  the  milk  and  stock  together 
for  10  minutes.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  add  the  flour, 
and  stir  and  cook  for  5  or  6  minutes,  without  browning.  Pour  in  the 
stock  and  milk,  stir  until  boiling,  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes, 
season  to  taste,  add  the  cream  and  lemon-juice,  and  sen  e. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod. 

380.— LIVER  AND  LEMON  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — |  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  No.  202,  I  lemon,  the  liver 
of  a  fowl,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  liver  until  firm,  and  chop  it  finely.  Grate  off 
the  lemon -rind,  and  mix  it  with  the  liver.  Remove  every  particle 
of  white  pith,  and  cut  the  lemon  into  dice,  putting  all  the  pips  aside. 
Make  the  melted  butter  sauce  as  directed  in  No.  202,  add  the  pivp.m  d 
liver,  lemon-rind  and  dice,  season  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  2\d. 

381.— LIVER  AND  PARSLEY  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — V  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  No.  202,  i  tablespoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley,  the  liver  of  a  fowl,  salt  and  JK •]>; 

Method. — Boil  the  liver  until  firm,  and  chop  it  finely,  make  the 
melted  butter  as  directed,  add  the  parsley  and  prepared  liver,  season  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

Time.— About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2^d. 

382.— NUT  BROWN   BUTTER.    (Fr.—  Beurre  Noir.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cook  the  butter  in  a  frying  p;m  until  it  turns  brown, 
then  add  the  parsley,  vinegar,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Let  the 
whole  simmer  for  i  or  2  minutes,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

Time.— £  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  51!. 

383-— QUIN'S  SAUCE. 

Ingredients,— i  pint  of  mushroom  ketchup.  ]  a  pint  of  walmt  pickle, 


278  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

£  a  pint  of  port  wine,  %  of  a  pint  of  soy,  1 2  anchovies  chopped,  1 2  shallots 
chopped,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  saucepan,  simmer  gently  for 
1 5  minutes,  and  strain.  When  quite  cold,  bottle,  cork  and  seal  securely, 
and  store  for  use. 

Time. — 25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2s.  8d. 

384.— READING  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 2%  pints  of  walnut  pickle,  i£  ozs.  of  shallots,  coarsely- 
chopped,  i  quart  of  water,  |-  of  a  pint  of  Indian  soy,  i  anchovy  coarsely- 
chopped,  i  an  oz.  of  ginger  bruised,  £  an  oz.  of  white  peppercorns, 
i  oz.  of  mustard  seed,  \  an  oz.  of  cayenne,  £  of  an  oz.  of  dried  bay- 
leaves. 

Method. — Put  the  walnut  pickle  and  shallots  into  a  large  jar,  and  cook 
in  a  gentle  oven  until  reduced  to  2  pints.  In  another  jar  place  the 
cayenne,  mustard  seed,  peppercorns,  ginger  and  anchovy,  add  the  soy 
and  water,  and  cook  in  a  gentle  oven  for  i  hour  after  simmering  point 
is  reached.  Mix  the  contents  of  the  2  jars  together,  and  when  quite 
cold  add  the  bay-leaves.  Leave  closely  covered  for  i  week,  then  strain 
into  small  bottles,  cork  and  seal  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

Time. — 2  hours  and  i  week.     Average  Cost,  2s.  8d.  to  35. 

385.— SAUCE  FOR  STEAKS,  CHOPS,  ETC. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  mushroom  ketchup  or  walnut  pickle,  £  an  oz. 
of  pickled  shallots,  \  an  oz.  of  grated  horseradish,  £  an  oz.  of  allspice, 
i  oz.  of  black  pepper,  i  oz.  of  salt. 

Method. — Pound  the  shallots  and  horseradish  until  smooth  in  a 
mortar,  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  let  the  whole  stand  closely 
covered  for  14  days.  Strain  into  small  bottles,  cork  and  seal  securely, 
and  store  for  use. 

Time. — 2  weeks.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 

ALLSPICE  (Fr.  pintent).— The  popular  name  for  pimento,  or  Jamaica  pepper,  the  dried  berries  of 
Eugenia  pimento.,  a  lofty  handsome  tree,  with  dark  shiny  green  leaves  and  fragrant  white  flowers. 
It  belongs  to  the  Myrtaceae,  or  myrtle  family,  and  receives  its  name  of  "  Allspice  "  from  its  possessing 
the  combined  flavours  of  cinnamon,  cloves  and  nutmeg.  The  berries  are  gathered  in  the  green  state 
and  dried  in  the  sun,  which  causes  them  to  turn  black.  Allspice  is  used  in  medicine  as  an  aromatic, 
and  in  various  ways  is  employed  in  cookery. 

386.— STORE  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  mushroom  ketchup,  4-  a  pint  of  walnut  ketchup, 
£  a  pint  of  port  wine,  12  anchovies,  6  shallots,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cayenne. 

Method. — Pound  the  anchovies  and  shallots,  or  chop  them  finely  ; 
add  them  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  boil  gently  for  i  hour. 


RECIPES  FOR  MISCELLANEOUS  SAUCES          279 

When  cold,  put  the  preparation  into  well-corked  bottles,  and  store  for 
use. 

Time. — 1£  hour.     Average  Cost,  35. 

387.— SUBSTITUTE  FOR  CAPER  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  good  tablespoonful  of  coarsely-chopped  gherkins 
£  of  a  pint  of  white  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs 
of  flour,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook 
the  mixture  for  6  or  7  minutes,  then  add  the  stock  and  milk.  Simmer 
gently  for  10  minutes,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  vinegar  to 
taste,  and  the  prepared  gherkins.  Serve  with  boiled  mutton,  or  other 
dishes  to  which  caper  sauce  forms  an  accompaniment. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  stock. 

388.— SWEDISH  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 2  raw  yolks  of  eggs,  2  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  mixed  herbs,  salad  oil,  tarragon  vinegar, 
prepared  mustard,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pass  the  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Stir  the  raw  yolks  with  a  wooden  spoon  in  a  small  basin  until  thick 
and  creamy,  mix  in  the  yolks,  and  add  the  salad  oil,  drop  by  drop, 
until  the  desired  consistency  is  obtained,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile. 
Add  £  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  the  herbs,  vinegar,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  mix  well.  Stand  on  ice  until  required. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  or  7d. 

Note. — This  sauce  is  sometimes  used  for  coating  or  masking  purposes; 
in  which  case,  £  a  gill  or  so  of  aspic  should  be  incorporated. 

389.— TAMARIND  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — Ripe  tamarinds,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Place  the  fruit  in  layers  in  a  stone  jar,  sprinkling  each 
layer  slightly  or  liberally  with  sugar,  according  to  taste.  Cook  in  a 
cool  oven  until  quite  tender,  then  pass  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and 
when  quite  cold  turn  into  small  bottles,  cork  and  seal  securely,  and 
store  for  use. 

Time. — About  4  hours. 

390.— TOMATO      SAUCE.         (Fr.—  Sauce  Tomate.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  vinegar,  2  Ib.  of  tomatoes,  i  Spanish  onion 
sliced,  £  a  Ib.  of  brown  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  allspice,  i  oz.  of  black  pepper- 
corns, 2  ozs.  of  salt,  £  of  an  oz.  of  cloves,  ^  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  stewjar  or  saucepan,  cover 


280  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

closely,  and  cook  very  gently  for  2  hours.  Pass  through  a  fine  hair 
sieve,  let  the  puree  remain  until  quite  cold,  then  turn  into  small  bottles, 
cork  and  seal  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

Time. — About  2^  hours.     Average  Cost,    is.  3d. 

391.— TOMATO  ASPIC. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  tomato  pulp,  \  an  oz.  of  gelatine  (previously 
soaked  in  water),  ^  a  gill  of  aspic,  and  i  tablespoonful  of  meat 
glaze. 

Method. — Put  the  above  named  ingredients  in  a  saucepan  over  the 
fire,  stir  until  it  boils,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne 
pepper,  strain  the  aspic  through  a  cloth  or  fine  sieve,  and  use  as 
directed. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  is.  3d. 

392.— WORCESTER  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  Bordeaux  vinegar,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  walnut 
ketchup,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  essence  of  anchovy,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
Indian  Soy,  i  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  2  cloves  of  garlic  finely-chopped. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  large  bottle,  cover  closely, 
and  shake  well  every  day  for  a  fortnight.  At  the  end  of  this  time  it 
will  be  ready  for  use,  but  it  may  be  stored  for  a  length  of  time  in  well- 
corked  bottles. 

Time. — 2  weeks.     Average  Cost,  TS.  4d. 

• 


Forcemeats. 


Forcemeat,  or  Farcemeat,  as  it  was  originally  called,  derives  its 
name  from  the  French  verb  farcie,  to  stuff.  In  modern  phraseology 
the  term  farce  or  forcemeat  is  applied  equally  to  the  simple  and  quickly 
made  veal  stuffing,  the  finely-pounded  quenelle  mixture  (which  is  in 
no  sense  a  stuffing),  and  the  various  farces  used  to  cover  sections  of 
pigeons,  cutlets,  etc. 

The  consistency  of  forcemeat  varies  according  to  the  purpose  for 
which  they  are  required.  Those  intended  for  stuffing  may  be  moistened 
with  milk  instead  of  egg,  and  made  much  more  moist  than  quenelles, 
which  must  retain  their  shape  and  be  firm  enough  to  support  their 
own  weight  during  the  process  of  cooking. 

The  quantity  of  liquid  necessary  to  thoroughly  moisten,  and  the 
number  of  eggs  required  to  stiffen  the  various  substances,  cannot  bo 
stated  exactly  ;  but  it  is  better  to  have  a  rough  guide  than  none,  and 


RECIPES   FOR   FORCEMEATS  281 

when  making  quenelle  mixtures,  which  must  have  a  certain  consistency, 
and  yet  retain  the  lightness  which  is  one  of  their  chief  points  of  ex- 
cellence, it  is  advisable  to  test  the  mixture  by  poaching  a  small  quantity 
of  it  in  boiling  water.  When  too  soft,  another  yolk  of  egg  should  be 
added,  if  eggs  have  been  already  used,  or  a  few  crumbs  may  be  added 
to  mixtures  of  which  they  already  form  a  part. 

The  excellence  of  many  simple  forcemeats  depends  largely  on  flavour- 
ings and  seasoning.  In  making  them,  it  is  a  common  error  to  use  too 
little  salt  and  pepper,  and  too  few  flavourings  ;  it  is  much  better  to  use 
a  small  quantity  of  several  kinds  than  to  allow  one  flavour  to  predomin- 
ate. A  comparatively  large  quantity  of  nutmeg  may  be  used  in  \«M! 
forcemeat  without  its  presence  being  detected  ;  it  is  believed  that  its 
strength  is  in  some  manner  used  in  developing  the  flavour  of  the  sub- 
stances with  which  it  is  mixed. 

The  liquid  in  which  quenelles  are  poached  must  always  be  quite 
boiling,  in  order  that  the  surface  may  immediately  harden,  and  so  help 
them  to  retain  their  shape. 

393.— CHESTNUT  FARCE  FOR  ROAST  TURKEY. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  chestnuts,  £  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  a  good  pinch  of  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  tops  of  the  chestnuts,  and  bake  or  roast  them 
0   minutes.      Remove   both    the   outer   and    inner   skins,    put    the 
nuts  into  a  stcwpan,  add   the  stock  (no  more  than  will  b.uvly 
cover  them),  and  simmer  until  they  become  tender  and  dry.      Rub 
through  a  fine  sieve,  add  the  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  use  as  re- 
quired. 

Time.— About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  ;d.  to  8d.  without  the 
stock. 

394--FARCE    OF    WHITING    OR    OTHER    FISH. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  uncooked  fish  (two  whitings),  |  of  a  pint  of 
milk  or  fish  stock.  No.   5,  2  ozs.  of    flour,    i    oz.    of  butter,    j 
pep]  XT  and  salt. 

Method.— Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk  or  stink, 
and  cook  until  the  panada  ti.rms  a  o-mpuit  mass  round  the  bowl 
ot  the  spoon.  Pound  the  fish  and  tin.-  panada  well  together,  add 
the  eggs  one  by  one,  season  well,  and  pass  the  ingredients  through  a 

A    lighter    mixture    may  be    obtained  when    required    by   pounding 
3    yolks   with    the    fish    and   mixing   the   3  whites    (stiiily    whipped 
after   passing    the   mixture   through   the  s: 

Time.  -About  35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  is.  for  this  quantity. 


282  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

395.— FORCEMEAT    FOR    BAKED    FISH.          (Fr. 
Farce  de  Huitres  et  d'Anchois.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  i  teaspoonful  of  minced  savou 
herbs,  8  oysters,  2  anchovies  (these  may  be  dispensed  with),  2  ozs. 
suet,  salt  and  pepper,  pounded  mace  to  taste,  6  tablespoonfuls  of  crcar 
or  milk,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs. 

Method. — Beard  and  mince  the  oysters,  prepare  and  mix  the  other 
ingredients,  and  blend  the  whole  thoroughly  together.  Moisten  with 
the  cream  and  eggs,  put  all  into  a  stewpan,  and  stir  the  mixture  over 
the  fire  till  it  thickens.  Stuff  the  inside  of  the  fish  with  the  prepara- 
tion, and  sew  up  the  opening. 

Time. — 4  or  5  minutes  to  thicken.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for 
a  moderate-sized  pike. 

396.— FORCEMEAT  FOR  SAVOURY  PIES. 

Ingredients. — %  a  Ib.  of  veal  finely-chopped,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  bacon  finely- 
chopped,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  £  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  i  egg,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  veal,  bacon,  breadcrumbs,  parsley,  herbs  and  lemon- 
rind  well  together,  and  season  to  taste.  Add  the  egg,  which  should 
thoroughly  moisten  the  dry  ingredients;  if  too  small  to  do  this,  use  a 
little  milk  or  water  in  addition.  Mix  well,  and  use  as  required. 

Average  Cost. — lod.  to  is.     Sufficient  for  i  large  pie. 

397.— HAM    FORCEMEAT    FOR    VEAL,    TURKEY, 
FOWL,  HARE. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  ham  or  lean  bacon,  4  ozs.  of  suet,  4  ozs.  of  bread 
crumbs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  ^  a  teaspoonful  of 
mixed  herbs,  the  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg, 
a  good  pinch  of  mace,  2  eggs,  or  i  egg  and  a  little  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Chop  the  ham  and  suet  finely.  Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients 
well  together,  add  the  eggs,  season  to  taste,  mix  well,  and  use  as  re- 
quired. When  the  mixture  is  intended  for  balls,  the  consistency 
should  be  tested  by  poaching  a  small  quantity  in  boiling  water. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  6d.  for  this  quantity. 

398,— LIVER   FARCE  (Fr.— Farce  de  Foie  de  Veau.) 
FOR  QUAILS,  AND  OTHER  BIRDS. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  calf's  liver,  2  ozs.  of  lean  veal,  3  ozs.  of  bacon, 
\  a  very  small  onion,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
i  oz.  of  butter,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper. 


RECIPES   FOR   FORCEMEATS 

Method. — Cut  the  liver,  veal,  and  bacon  into  very  small  pieces,  melt 
the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  put  in  the  meat,  onion,  finely-chopped, 
bouquet-garni,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  fry  10 
or  15  minutes.  Pound  in  a  mortar,  rub  through  a  wire  sieve,  add  the 
yolk  of  egg,  mix  well,  season  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

399.— LOBSTER  FARCE  FOR  QUENELLES. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  lobster,  £  of  a  pint  of  fish  stock  or  milk,  2  ozs. 
of  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  salt,  cayenne. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock 
or  milk,  and  cook  until  it  leaves  the  sides  of  the  saucepan  clear  and  forms 
a  compact  mass  round  the  bowl  of  the  spoon,  then  put  it  aside  to  cool. 
Chop  the  lobster  finely,  and  pound  it  and  the  panada  (flour  mixture) 
well  together  in  the  mortar  ;  add  each  egg  separately,  season  to  taste, 
pound  thoroughly,  and  rub  the  mixture  through  a  wire  sieve.  Stir 
in  the  cream,  and  the  farce  is  ready  for  use.  This  mixture,  being  very 
light,  is  best  steamed  in  small  quenelle  or  dariol  moulds. 

Average  Cost,  2S.  to  2S.  6d.  for  this  quantity. 

400.— OYSTER     FORCEMEAT      FOR      ROAST      OR 
BOILED    TURKEY. 

Ingredients. — 18  sauce  oysters,  £  a  pint  of  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs.  of 
finely-chopped  suet,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  a  good  pinch  of 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  i  egg,  and  a  little  milk  if  necessary  (or  oyster 
liqu< 

Method. — Beard  the  oysters,  put  any  liquor  from  them  into  a  sauce- 
pan, add  the  beards,  and  simmer  for  about  10  minutes.  Cut  the  oysters 
into  small  pieces,  mix  with  them  the  breadcrumbs,  suet,  herbs,  nutmeg, 
and  seasoning.  Add  the  egg  and  sufficient  milk  or  oyster  liquor  to 
thoroughly  moisten  the  whole,  and  mix  well.  Press  the  farce  lightly 
into  the  breast  of  the  turkey. 

Time. — From  30  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  is.  9d.  for 
quantity.      Sufficient  for  one  turkey. 

401.— PORK  STUFFING. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  onions,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  2 
ozs  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  sage  or  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  sage,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.-  Cut    the  onions  into  slices,  cover  them  with  cold  water, 
brin^  to  the  boil,  cook  for  5  minutes,  then  strain  and  drain  well, 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  fry  the  onions  for  about  1 5  minutes  without 


284  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

browning.     Add  the  breadcrumbs,  sage  and  seasoning,  mix  well,  and 
use  as  required. 

Average  Cost. — 4(1.     Sufficient  for  a  leg  or  loin  of  pork. 

Note. — For  other  methods  see  "Sage  and  Onion  Stuffing." 

402.— QUENELLES,    TO    SHAPE. 

To  make  quenelles  a  good  shape  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  knife  and 
two  dessertspoons,  or  smaller  spoons  when  intended  for  soup.  Dip 
one  of  the  spoons  in  hot  water  to  prevent  the  mixture  sticking  to  it,  fill 
it  with  the  farce,  press  it  from  the  sides,  and  raise  it  in  the  centre 
with  the  knife  (previously  dipped  in  hot  water),  making  it  a  nice  oval 
shape.  Take  the  other  spoon,  dip  it  into  hot  water,  pass  the  knife 
carefully  round  the  edge  of  the  quenelle,  transfer  it  to  the  second 
spoon  and  shape  as  before.  As  the  quenelles  are  shaped  they  should 
be  placed  in  the  saute  pan,  or  stewpan,  in  which  they  are  to  be 
cooked.  When  ready,  sufficient  boiling  stock  or  water  to  half  cover 
them  should  be  added,  and  the  top  of  the  quenelles  must  be  covered 
with  a  sheet  of  greased  paper  to  preserve  the  colour,  and  keep  moist 
that  part  of  the  quenelles  not  under  water. 

403.— QUENELLES  FOR  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  \  of  a  pint  of  stock,  \  an  oz.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  add  first  the  flour  and 
then  the  stock,  stir  and  cook  until  the  mixture  forms  a  compact  mass 
round  the  bowl  of  the  spoon,  then  put  it  aside  to  cool.  Pass  the  veal 
2  or  3  times  through  the  mincing  machine,  or  chop  it  finely.  Pound  the 
panada  (or  flour  mixture)  and  the  meat  well  together  until  smooth. 
Add  the  eggs  separately,  season  to  taste,  and  give  the  whole  a  good 
pounding.  Pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve,  shape  it  into  small 
quenelles  by  means  of  2  egg  spoons,  and  poach  in  a  little  hot  stock 
until  firm.  Add  them  to  the  soup,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.     Average  Co:t,  8d.  to  gd. 

404.— SAGE    AND    ONION    STUFFING.     (For    Roast 
Goose,   Duck,  Pork.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  onions,  \  a  pint  of  freshly-made  bread  crumbs, 
i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  sage  or  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
sage,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  onions  into  dice,  put  them  into  cold  water,  bring 
to  the  boil,  cook  for  5  minutes,  then  strain  and  drain  well.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  fry  the  onions  for  about  15  minutes  without 
browning  them.  Add  the  breadcrumbs,  sage,  and  seasoning,  mix  well, 
and  use  as  required. 


l;i>K   roUCKMK.VIS 

Time.     About  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  ;d.  Sufficient  lor   i 

dinks. 

405. -SAGE  AND   ONION  STUFFING.        (For     roast 
Goose,    Duck,  and  Pork.) 

Ingredients.     4  large  onions,  10  sa^e  haves,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs, 

t  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  i  egg. 

Method.-    Peel   the  onions,  put   them  into   boiling    water,    let    them 
simmer  for  5  minutes  or  rather  longer,  and,  just  before  they 
out,  put  in  the  sage  leaves  for  a  minute  or  two  to  take  off  their  rav. 
Chop  both  these  very  fine,  add  the  bread,  seasoning,  and  butter,  and 
work  the  whole  together  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  when  the  stut'tir. 

ly  for  use.    It  should  be  rather  highly  seasoned,  and 

shoulc  finely  chopped.      Man  lo  not  parlxtil  the  onions 

in    the   manner  just  stated,  but  merely  use  them  raw,  but  the  stuffing 
then  i^  not  nearly  so  mild.  and.  to  many  tafl  -'mm;  flavour  would 

lonable.      When   made  for  goose,  a  portion  of  the  livn 
of   the   bird,   simmered    5  and    very    fmelv    mm* 

ntly  added  to  tin  '1  where  economy 

er   may  be  div.  ith. 

Time.     KatluT  more  than  5  mir  \.     Average 

Cost,  fort:  :d.     Sufficient  for  i  go,, 

406.  -SAUSAGE  FARCE.      (For  Stuffing  Turkey.) 

Ingredients,     j   Ib.   of    lean    poT  .|,^p,,,,n' 

nibs.   \  a  .tul  (»f 

•f   the 
turkey  finely  choj)p.e«l.      S;« 

Method.    -Cut    the  pork  into  small   pieces,  and   pass  r 

through    the   mincing    UK*  to    it    the  uml>s, 

r,  seasoning,  and  '•••isten  with 

little  stock,  and  use. 

Time  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.   6d.   to  is.  ;d. 

one  turkey. 

407.— SAVOURY   OYSTER   STUFFING. 

I     dessei  t-|M,,,illul    i  li 
•  •f  butter.  s,tlt   ,uld  p,  j.j.n 

Method.      Me.ird   the  oysters,   -  ut  it  with  the 

I  h.Ml.     Allow  to  ill  the 

from  the  beards,  then  strain.       Mix  tot-etl 
od  lemon. 
:  S  chopp-. 


286  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

much  of  the   oyster  stock    as  will    bring  to  the  proper  consistency. 
Use  for  stuffing  fish  or  poultry. 

Time. — 30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  i  goose. 

408.— SOYER'S  RECIPE  FOR  GOOSE  STUFFING. 

Method. — Take  4  apples,  peeled  and  cored,  4  onions,  4  leaves  of  sage, 
4  leaves  of  lemon  thyme  not  broken,  and  boil  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
sufficient  water  to  cover  them  ;  when  done,  pulp  them  through  a  sieve, 
removing  the  sage  and  thyme  ;  then  add  sufficient  pulp  of  mealy 
potatoes  to  cause  it  to  be  sufficiently  dry,  without  sticking  to  the  hand  ; 
add  pepper  and  salt,  and  stuff  the  bird. 

LEMON  THYME  (Fr.  thym),  Thymus  citridorus.  is  a  variety  of  the  familiar  aromatic  herb.  It  is  a 
trailing  evergreen  of  smaller  growth  than  the  garden  thyme,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  smell,  which 
resembles  that  of  the  rind  of  a  lemon  :  hence  its  distinctive  name.  Lemon  thyme  is  cultivated  -in 
gardens  for  its  fragrant  odour,  and  is  used  for  seasoning,  and  for  some  particular  dishes,  in  which 
it  is  desired  the  fragrance  of  the  lemon  should  slightly  predominate. 

409.— SUET  FORCEMEAT. 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  suet,  4  tablespoonfuls 
of  breadcrumbs,  i  good  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
^  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  $  of  a  teaspoonful  of  grated 
lemon-rind,  i  egg  and  a  little  milk,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  well  together,  add  the  egg  and 
sufficient  milk  to  slightly  moisten  the  whole,  season  to  taste,  and  use. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d.  to  4d. 

410.— TRUFFLE  FORCEMEAT. 

Ingredients. — \  Ib.  of  truffles  (preferably  fresh  ones),  \  a  Ib.  of  veal, 
£  a  Ib.  of  pork  or  bacon  (fat  and  lean  in  equal  parts),  i  finely-chopped 
shallot,  i  glass  of  sherry,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pass  the  veal  and  pork  or  bacon  2  or  3  times  through  a 
mincing  machine,  or  chop  the  meat  very  finely,  pound  in  a  mortar 
until  quite  smooth,  then  pass  through  a  wire  sieve.  Chop  the  shallot 
and  truffles  finely,  add  them  to  the  meat  preparation,  season  to  taste, 
and  moisten  with  the  sherry  and  a  little  stock,  or  liquor  from  the 
truffles  when  using  bottled  ones.  Use  as  required. 

Average  Cost. — 6  to  8  shillings.     Sufficient  for  i  small  turkey. 

411.— VEAL  FARCE   FOR  QUENELLES,  ETC. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  flour  and  the  stock, 
stir  and  cook  until  the  mixture  forms  a  compact  mass  round  the  bowl 


RECIPES    FOR    FORCEMEATS  287 

of  the  spoon,  then  put  it  aside  to  cool.  Pass  the  veal  two  or  three 
times  through  the  mincing  machine,  or  chop  it  finely.  Pound  the 
panada  (the  flour  mixture)  and  the  meat  well  together  until  smooth. 
Add  the  eggs  separately,  season  to  taste,  and  give  the  whole  a  good 
pounding.  Pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  use  as  required. 
Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  5d.  without  the  stock. 

412.— VEAL  FARCE.     (For  Quenelles,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  lean  veal,  |  a  Ib.  of  veal  suet  (finely  chopped", 
3  ozs.  of  soaked  bread,  2  eggs,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pass  the  meat  2  or  3  times  through  a  mincing  machine  or 
chop  it  finely,  then  pound  the  suet  and  veal  together  in  a  mortar.  Add 
the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  and  the  bread  in  small  portions.  Also  add 
about  £  of  a  pint  of  cold  water,  but  before  using  the  whole,  poach  a 
little  of  the  mixture  in  boiling  water  to  test  the  consistency  ;  if  too 
soft,  add  a  little  more  bread  ;  if  too  stiff,  a  little  more  water,  shape  into 
quenelles,  as  directed  on  page  283. 

Time. — About    45    minutes.      Average  Cost,    is. 

413.— VEAL  FORCEMEAT.      (Fr.— Farce  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  lean  veal,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet, 
2  ozs.  of  fat  bacon  cut  into  fine  strips,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  freshly-made 
breadcrumbs,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper,  a  pinch  of  ground 
mace,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg. 

Method. — Pass  the  veal  twice  through  the  mincing  machine,  then 
pound  it  and  the  suet  and  bacon  well  in  the  mortar.  Pass  through  a 
wire  sieve,  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  season  to  taste,  and  use. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d  for  this  quantity. 

414.— VEAL  FORCEMEAT.        (Fr.— Farce  de  Veau.) 
(Economical.) 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  freshly-made  breadcrumbs,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  suet,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of  powdered  thyme,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  grated 
lemon-rind,  i  egg  and  a  little  milk,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  well  together,  add  the  egg  and 
sufficient  milk  to  thoroughly  moisten  the  whole,  season  to  taste,  and 
use. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  3d.  to  4d.  for  this 
quantity. 


288  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

4IS._WHITING    FORCEMEAT.       (Fr.  —  Farce   de 
Merlan.) 

Ingredients. — I  whiting,  2  oz.  panada  or  soaked  bread,  i  oz.  butter, 
Pcchamel  sauce  (No.  177),  i  egg,  cream. 

Method. — Remove  the  meat  from  the  whiting,  pound  it  in  a  mortar, 
with  2  ozs.  of  panada  and  i  oz.  of  butter,  and  rub  all  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Put  this  preparation  into  a  basin,  and  work  in  gradually  i 
tablcspoonful  of  well-reduced  cold  Bechamel  sauce,  i  whole  egg,  and 
i  tablespoonful  of  cream.  Season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg.  Test  the  farce  or  forcemeat  before  using,  and  if  not  suffi- 
ciently firm  add  another  yolk  of  egg  or  a  little  panada.  Use  as  directed. 


FISH 


16 


m 

i  — C-ab  2  —Oyster.          3.— Eel.          4.— Mussel.          5.— Lemon  Sole.         6.-  Halibut. 

7-Prawn.       8.  -Sturgeon.       o.-Trout.        lo.-Sprat.       i,. -Brill.        la—Escallop. 
13.— Lamprey.        14.— Whitebait.        15.— Lobster.        16.— Dover  Sole. 


FISH 

CHAPTER    XI. 

The  Natural  History— As  an  Article  of  Diet— To 
Choose — The  Average  Prices — General  Direc- 
tions for  Preparing — General  Instructions  for 
Cooking. 

In  Natural  History  Fish  form  the  lowest  of  the  five  classes  into  which 
the  Vertebrata,  or  animals  having  a  backbone,  are  divided.  They 
may  be  broadly  described  as  vertebrate  animals  living  in  water,  and 
breathing  the  air  contained  in  it  by  means  of  gills,  which  supply  the 
place  of  lungs.  Fish  are  furnished  with  a  heart,  which,  except  in  the 
mud-fish  consists  of  a  single  auricle  and  ventricle,  and  fins,  which 
take  the  place  of  the  limbs  of  animals  higher  in  the  scale  of  being. 
The  blood-corpuscles  are  mostly  red,  and  the  Mood  is  termed  "  cold," 
from  the  circumstance  that  its  temperature  is  very  little,  if  any,  higher 
than  that  of  the  surrounding  water. 

The  adaptability  of  the  li>h  to  the  element  in  which  it  lives  is  seen 
in  the  body.  In  most  cases  the  external  shape  offers  the  least  possible 
friction  in  swimming,  thus  securing  rapid  locomotion.  The  body  is, 
in  general,  slender,  gradually  diminishing  towards  each  of  its  ex- 
tremities, while  it  is  also  rounded  on  the  sides,  roughly  resembling  the 
lower  part  of  a  ship's  hull,  and  enabling  the  fish,  like  the  vessel,  to 
penetrate  and  divide  the  resisting  fluid  with  comparative  ease.  Owing 
to  the  great  flexibility  of  the  body  in  the  water,  the  fish  can  with 
ease  migrate  thousands  of  miles  in  a  season. 

The  Principal  Organs  employed  by  Fish  to  accelerate  motion  are  their 
air-bladder,  fins,  and  tail.  The  air-bladder,  or  "  sound,"  is  auto- 
matically in  origin  the  same  as  a  lung,  but  it  does  not  perform  the 
function  of  that  organ.  Its  use  is  to  enable  the  fish  to  rise  or  sink  in  the 
water.  The  air-bladder  is  a  sac  or  bag  filled  with  gas,  chiefly  oxygen 
in  the  case  of  sea-fish,  and  nitrogen  in  fresh-water  species.  When  a 
fish  wishes  to  sink,  it  compresses  the  muscles  of  the  abdomen  and  ejects 
is  from  the  air-bladder,  thus  increasing  the  weight  of  the  body. 
When  it  desires  to  attend  the  abdominal  muscles  are  rel.ixed.  This 
causes  the  air-bladder  to  fill,  and  the  fish  then  rises  to  the  surt 


290  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

The  Fins  correspond  to  the  limbs  of  other  vertebrates.  The  "  an- 
terior," or  first  pair,  are  called  the  "  pectoral  "  fins,  and  are  analogous 
to  the  arms  of  man  and  the  fore-limbs  of  other  animals.  The  hind- 
fins  in  fishes,  known  as  "  ventral  "  fins,  are  often  wanting,  and  when 
present  are  less  developed  than  the  pectoral  fins,  and  less  fixed  in  their 
position.  The  "median"  or  "vertical"  fins,  situated  on  the  back, 
are  characteristic  of  fish,  and  extend  more  or  less  from  the  head  to  the 
tail.  The  fins  of  some  fish  are  soft  and  flexible  ;  in  others  rigid  spines, 
or  a  combination  of  the  two.  By  a  wonderful  mechanical  contrivance 
the  rigid  spines  can  be  raised  or  lowered  at  pleasure.  In  swimming, 
the  fins  enable  fish  to  maintain  their  upright  position,  the  centre  of 
gravity  being  in  their  backs.  The  expansion  and  contraction  of  the 
fins  enable  a  fish  to  ascend  or  descend  in  the  water. 

The  Tail  is  placed  vertically,  and  strikes  the  water  from  side  to  side. 
It  possesses  great  muscular  power,  and  is  the  chief  organ  of  progression 
in  a  fish.  Its  action  is  similar  to  that  of  the  rudder  of  a  ship,  turning 
the  body  to  the  right  or  to  the  left.  When  moved  with  a  quick  vibra- 
tory motion  it  acts  like  a  screw-propeller,  the  fish  darting  forward 
with  a  speed  proportionate  to  the  force  exerted.  Two  very  distinct 
types  of  tail  are  found.  In  the  one,  common  to  most  fish,  the  tail  is 
composed  of  two  nearly  equal  lobes,  and  is  termed  "  homocercal." 
In  the  other  type,  represented  by  the  sharks  and  by  many  extinct  forms, 
the  upper  lobe  is  much  longer  than  the  lower,  the  tail  in  this  case  being 
called  "  heterocercal." 

The  Bodies  of  Fish  are  mostly  covered  with  horny  scales  ;  but  in  some, 
as  the  eel  and  carp,  scales  are  altogether  wanting,  or  exist  in  so  minute 
a  form  as  to  be  almost  invisible.  The  scales  preserve  the  fish  from 
injury  by  the  pressure  or  friction  of  the  water,  or  the  sudden  contact 
with  pebbles,  rocks  or  seaweed.  Where  the  scales  are  very  minute 
or  absent,  the  bodies,  as  in  sand-fish,  are  covered  with  a  mucous  secre- 
tion, which  answers  the  same  purpose  as  scales.  When  thin,  horny, 
flexible,  circular  or  elliptical  in  shape,  like  those  of  the  salmon  or  herring, 
the  scales  are  called  "  cycloid."  When  in  detached  plates,  sometimes 
furnished  with  projecting  spines,  as  in  the  case  of  the  shark,  they  are 
called  "  placoid."  Thin,  horny,  flexible  scales  and  comb-like  pro- 
jections on  the  hinder  margin,  like  those  of  the  perch,  are  termed 
"  ctenoid."  Bony  scales  overlaid  with  hard  polished  enamel,  a  type 
represented  by  the  sturgeon,  and  by  many  fossil  fish,  are  known  as 
"  ganoid." 

The  Respiration  of  Fish  is  aquatic,  and  is  effected  by  the  comb-like 
organs,  branchiae,  or  gills,  situated  on  each  side  of  the  neck.  The  gills 
are  composed  of  delicate  filaments,  in  which  the  blood  is  exposed 
to  the  aerating  influences  of  the  external  water.  The  water,  after 
being  taken  into  the  mouth  by  a  process  resembling  swallowing,  passes 
over  the  gills,  where  it  gives  up  its  oxygen,  and  is  ejected  from  the 


FISH  291 

gill-chambers  by  an  aperture,  the  "  gill-slit,"  placed  at  sides  of  the 
mouth  behind  the  "  gill-cover,"  an  organ  consisting  of  a  chain  of  flat 
bones  and  a  membrane.  The  oxygen,  after  passing  through  the  gills, 
is  driven  through  all  parts  of  the  body,  and  the  venous  and  impure 
blood  is  forced  by  the  action  of  the  heart  to  the  gills,  where  it  is  sub- 
jected to  the  action  of  the  water.  Oxygen  is  essential  to  the  life  of  a 
fish,  and  suffocation  results  unless  that  gas  is  present  in  water.  The 
teeth  of  fish  are  in  the  jaws,  sometimes  on  the  palate  or  tongue,  and  in 
some  cases  they  are  placed  in  the  throat.  They  are  usually  sharp- 
pointed  and  fixed  ;  in  the  carp  they  are  obtuse,  and  in  the  pike  they  are 
easily  moved.  When  lost  or  injured,  the  teeth  of  fish  are  replaced  ; 
they  are  not  set  in  sockets,  but  are  attached  by  a  ligament  to  the  bones 
of  the  mouth.  In  the  herring  the  tongue  is  set  with  teeth,  by  means 
of  which  it  more  easily  retains  its  food. 

These  two  great  Divisions  formed  the  basis  of  the  classification  of  the 
eminent  naturalist,  Cuvier,  and  may  serve  roughly  to  differentiate 
the  various  classes  of  fish  which  are  now  more  scientifically  grouped 
according  to  then-  particular  characteristics  into  six  divisions,  or  four 
orders,  if  the  classification  of  Agassiz,  based  on  the  structure  of  their 
scales,  be  followed.  The  true  internal  skeleton  differs  very  widely 
among  fish  ;  in  the  case  of  one  fish,  the  lancelet,  a  true  skeleton  scarcely 
exists,  the  backbone  being  replaced  by  a  soft  cellular  rod.  In  some, 
for  example,  the  lampreys,  sturgeons  and  rays,  it  is  cartilaginous  ;  in 
others  it  is  partly  cartilaginous  and  partly  bony  ;  and  in  a  great  many, 
like  the  herring,  perch,  etc.,  it  is  entirely  composed  of  bone.  The 
backbone  extends  through  the  whole  length  of  the  body,  and  consists 
of  vertebrae,  strong  and  thick  towards  the  head,  but  weaker  towards 
the  tail.  Each  species  has  a  determinate  number  of  vertebrae,  which 
are  increased  in  size  in  proportion  to  the  body.  The  ribs  are  attached 
to  the  processes  of  the  vertebrae,  and  enclose  the  breast  and  abdomen. 
Some  fish,  the  rays,  for  instance,  have  no  ribs;  whilst  others,  like  the 
sturgeon  and  eel,  have  them  very  short.  Between  the  pointed  pro- 
cesses of  the  vertebrae  are  situated  the  bones  which  support  the  dorsal 
(back)  and  the  anal  (below  the  tail)  fins,  which  are  connected  with  the 
processes  by  a  ligament.  At  the  breast  are  the  sternum,  or  breast- 
bone, clavicles,  or  collar-bones,  and  the  scapullae,  or  shouder-blades, 
on  which  the  pectoral  or  breast  fins  are  placed.  The  bones  which 
support  the  ventral  or  belly  fins  are  called  the  ossa  pelvis.  Besides 
these  principal  bones,  there  are  often  smaller  ones,  placed  between 
the  muscles,  which  assist  their  motion. 

The  Organs  of  Sense. — The  organs  of  sight,  hearing,  smelling,  taste 
and  touch  are  possessed  in  a  higher  or  lower  degree  by  fish.  Those  of 
taste  and  touch  are  the  least  developed.  The  filaments  at  the  mouths 
of  the  cod,  sturgeon  and  whiting  are  supposed  to  be  organs  of  touch, 
and  it  is  also  thought  that  the  "  lateral  line,"  running  along  the  sides 


292  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

of  most  fish,  is  connected  with  the  termination  of  certain  nerves,  and 
enables  a  fish  coming  into  contact  with  any  substance  to  feel  its  pre- 
sence. The  sense  of  taste  is  not  very  delicate,  the  tongue  and  palate 
being  for  the  most  part  cartilaginous,  and  frequently  set  with  teeth. 
Fish  have  no  external  organ  of  hearing,  and  the  internal  apparatus  is 
partly  free  in  the  cavity  of  the  skull,  differing  in  this  respect  from 
that  of  birds  and  quadrupeds,  while  its  structure  is  simpler  than  that 
of  animals  which  live  entirely  in  the  air.  In  some  genera,  as  in  the 
rays,  the  external  orifice  or  ear  is  very  small,  and  is  placed  in  the  upper 
surface  of  the  head,  while  in  others  there  is  no  visible  external  orifice. 
The  sight  of  fish  is  keen;  the  eye  is  large  and  flattened  externally,  and 
is  furnished  behind  with  a  muscle  which  adjusts  the  focus  to  the  re- 
quirements of  the  fish  by  lengthening  or  flattening  the  eye.  It  is  in 
most  cases  covered  with  the  same  transparent  skin  which  extends  over 
the  rest  of  the  head,  protecting  the  organ  from  the  action  of  the  water. 
The  crystalline  humour  is  almost  globular.  The  organ  of  smelling  is 
large,  and  consists  of  a  double  cavity  lined  by  a  mucous  membrane 
folded  into  numerous  plaits,  into  which  water  is  admitted  usually  by 
two  distinct  apertures  or  nostrils.  The  nasal  sacs  are  closed  behind, 
and,  except  in  the  cases  of  the  bog-fish  and  the  mud-fish,  do  not,  like 
the  higher  vertebrates,  communicate  with  the  throat.  The  sense  of 
smell  is  the  chief  agent  by  which  fish  discover  their  food. 

The  Food  of  Fish. — This  is  almost  universally  found  in  the  water. 
Fish  are  mostly  carnivorous,  though  they  seize  upon  almost  anything 
that  conies  in  their  way;  they  even  devour  their  own  offspring,  and 
manifest  a  particular  predilection  for  living  creatures.  Innumerable 
shoals  of  one  species  pursue  those  of  another,  with  a  ferocity  which 
draws  them  from  the  pole  to  the  equator,  through  all  the  varying 
temperatures  and  depths  of  their  boundless  domain.  Many  species 
must  have  become  extinct,  were  not  the  means  of  escape,  the  pro- 
duction, and  the  numbers  greater  than  the  dangers  to  which  they  are 
exposed.  The  smaller  species  are  not  only  more  numerous,  but  more 
productive  than  the  larger,  whilst  their  instinct  leads  them  in  search 
of  food  and  safety  near  the  shores,  where,  from  the  shallowness  of  the 
waters,  many  of  their  foes  are  unable  to  follow  them. 

The  Fecundity  of  Fish  is  remarkable,  and  is  especially  noticeable  in 
the  sturgeon,  salmon,  cod,  mackerel,  flounder  and  herring,  whose 
powers  of  reproduction  are  almost  incredible.  In  general  fish  are 
oviparous,  or  egg-producing,  the  young  being  afterwards  hatched;  some 
few,  like  the  eel  arid  the  blenny,  are  viviparous,  and  produce  their  young 
alive.  The  viviparous  species  are  not  so  prolific.  The  eggs  in  the  roe 
of  the  shark  are  comparatively  few,  and  each  ovum  before  exclusion 
is  provided  with  a  horny  sheath  furnished  with  cirri,  or  filaments,  by 
which  it  moors  itself  to  a  fixed  object.  Reproduction  is  effected  by 
the  milt  of  the  male  and  the  foe  of  the  female  fish.  The  majority  of 


FISH  293 

fish  deposit  their  spawn  in  the  sand  or  gravel;  those  inhabiting  the 
depths  oi  the  ocean  attach  their  eggs  to  sea-weeds. 

The  Longevity  of  Fish  is  said  to  exceed  that  of  most  animals,  athough 
the  age  to  which  they  attain  is  a  matter  of  some  dispute  ;  there  are, 
however,  well  authenticated  instances  of  the  great  longevity  of  the 
carp.  Fish  are  either  solitary  or  gregarious,  and  some  of  them  migrate 
to  great  distances,  and  into  certain  rivers,  to  deposit  their  spawn. 
Of  sea-fish,  the  cod,  herring,  mackerel,  and  many  others,  assemble 
in  immense  shoals,  and  migrate  through  different  tracts  of  the  ocean. 

The  supply  of  Fish  in  the  Ocean  may  be  considered  to  be  practically 
inexhaustible,  notwithstanding  the  excessive  dredging,  which  has 
diminished  the  supply  around  the  coasts  of  England  and  some  other 
European  countries.  In  various  parts  of  the  world  fish  constitutes 
the  chief  or  only  animal  food  of  the  people  ;  but  it  is  consumed  more 
or  less  in  most  countries,  and  many  prejudices  have  existed  regarding 
its  use.  Fish  was  but  little  eaten  by  the  Jews,  and  the  Mosaic  code 
interdicted  the  eating  of  fish  destitute  of  scales  and  fins,  although 
other  kinds  were  not  prohibited  ;  and  from  the  New  Testament  \\e 
know  that  several  of  the  Apostles  followed  the  calling  of  fishermen. 
Among  the  ancient  Egyptians  fish  was  an  article  of  diet,  but  was  not 
eaten  by  the  priests. 

Fish  has  been  held  in  estimation  as  an  article  of  diet  in  nearly  every 
civilized  country.  Although  Mcnclaus  complains  that  the  Homeric 
heroes  had  been  compelled  to  live  on  fish,  in  later  ages  fish  became  one 
of  the  principal  articles  of  food  among  the  Greeks.  Aristophanes  and 
Athenaeus  allude  to  it,  and  satirize  their  countrymen  for  their  extreme 
fondness  for  turbot  and  mullet;  and  the  latter  author  has  left  on  record 
some  valuable  precepts  on  the  ingenuity  of  the  Greeks  in  seasoning 
fish  with  salt,  oil  and  aromatics.  The  Roman  epicures  were  especially 
fond  of  red  mullet,  which  they  esteemed  the  most  delicate  ;  the  eel-pout 
and  the  liver  of  the  lotas  were  also  favourite  dishes.  It  is  stated  that 
Apicius  offered  a  prize  to  any  one  who  could  invent  a  new  brine  (mari- 
nade) compounded  of  the  liver  of  red  mullets  ;  and  that  Lucullus,  the 
famous  epicure,  constructed  a  canal  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Naples 
for  the  ready  transportation  of  fish  to  his  garden.  Hortensius,  the 
actor,  is  said  to  have  wept  over  a  turbot  which  he  had  fed  with  his 
own  hands  ;  and  the  daughter  of  Drusus  ornamented  one  that  she 
-<ed  with  rings  of  gold.  The  French  King,  Louis  XII,  was  an 
ardent  lover  of  fish,  and  engaged  six  fishmongers  to  supply  his  table. 
Francis  1  had  twenty-two  fishmongers,  while  the  requirements  of 
Henry  the  Great  necessitated  the  employment  of  twenty-four.  In 
the  time  of  Louis  XIV  cooks  had  become  so  skilful  in  their  art,  that 
trout,  pike  or  carp  were  converted  by  them  into  the  shape  and  flavour 
of  the  most  delicious  game.  Large  reservoirs  and  canals  were  erected 
in  many  parts,  for  the  breeding  of  carp  and  other  fish.  Marie  An- 


294  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

toinette  kept  her  carp  like  the  turbot  of  the  Roman  dame  mentioned 
above,  and  also  adorned  her  finny  pet  with  a  golden  ring.  In  England, 
in  the  reign  of  Edward  II,  fish  became  a  dainty,  especially  the  stur- 
geon, which  was  made  a  "  royal  "  fish,  and  was  not  permitted  to  appear 
on  any  table  but  that  of  the  King.  In  the  fourteenth  century  a  decree 
of  King  John  informs  us  that  the  people  ate  both  seals  and  porpoises. 
The  monks  and  noble  landowners  established  in  the  Middle  Ages 
extensive  systems  of  ponds  and  canals  for  breeding  fresh-water  fish, 
so  much  in  demand  on  fast  days.  Vestiges  of  these  preserves  are  still 
to  be  seen  in  many  parts  of  the  country. 

American  terrapin  soup  is  made  from  the  flesh  of  various  species  of 
the  fresh-water  tortoises,  many  of  which  are  natives  of  North  America. 
They  are  distinguished  by  a  horny  beak  or  jaws  with  sharp  cutting 
edges  and  limbs,  having  each  of  the  five  toes  united  by  a  web.  They 
live  on  vegetables,  reptiles,  fish  and  other  aquatic  animals.  The  salt- 
water terrapin  is  abundant  in  the  salt  marshes  of  Charleston.  The 
most  esteemed  species  for  culinary  purposes  is  the  chicken  tortoise,  so- 
called  from  the  delicacy  of  its  flesh. 

FISH  AS  AN  ARTICLE  OF  DIET. 

Fish  as  Food. — As  an  article  of  nourishment,  fish  is  less  satisfying 
and  less  stimulating  than  butcher's  meat.  Hence  it  is  valuable  in 
the  sick  room,  when  stronger  kinds  of  animal  food  are  unsuitable  for 
invalids.  It  is,  however,  a  matter  of  common  experience  that  in 
fishing-towns,  where  little  or  no  other  animal  food  is  taken,  the  health 
and  vigour  of  the  inhabitants  are  excellent. 

The  amount  of  nourishment  contained  in  fish  varies  with  the  species. 
Some  of  the  red-fleshed  fish  are  almost  as  nutritious  as  butcher's  meat. 
Chief  amongst  these  is  salmon,  once  a  principal  article  of  food  in  this 
country.  Every  one  has  heard  of  the  Scotch  apprentices,  in  whose 
indentures  it  was  customary  to  insert  a  clause  to  the  effect  that  salmon 
should  not  be  given  them  more  than  twice  a  week.  In  point  of  fact, 
the  richness  and  peculiar  flavour  of  this  fish  make  it  ill  adapted  for 
daily  food. 

The  white-fleshed  fish,  such  as  whiting,  sole,  haddock,  hake,  cod 
and  skate  are  less  nourishing,  but  more  digestible,  and  it  is  said  that 
they  do  not  so  soon  pall  upon  the  appetite  of  those  who  live  on  fish. 
The  whiting  is  best  suited  for  invalids  ;  and  next,  perhaps,  come  the 
sole,  haddock  and  plaice.  Cod,  hake  and  skate  are  remarkably  firm- 
fleshed  and  fibrous,  and  even  when  in  good  condition,  are  somewhat 
difficult  of  digestion.  The  flesh  of  all  these  fish  contains  little  fat  ; 
but  in  the  liver,  especially  that  of  the  cod-fish,  oil  accumulates  in  larger 
quantity.  Fish  oil  is  said  to  be  more  easy  of  digestion  than  any  other 
kind  of  fat,  and  cod-liver  oil  is  therefore  commonly  given  to  invalids. 

In  other  fish,  with  flesh  more  or  less  white,  there  is  much  fat  in  the 
tissues.  Herrings,  pilchards,  sprats,  eels,  lampreys,  mackerel  are 


FISH  295 

Tich,  and  likely  to  disagree  with  delicate  persons.  However,  they  are 
^nourishing,  and  supplying,  as  they  do,  both  fat  and  flavour  at  a  small 
vcost,  are  very  largely  consumed  by  the  poor.  Herring  is  said  to  con- 
tain more  nourishment  and  is  cheaper  than  any  other  kind  of  fish 
food. 

Crimping  is  employed  to  increase  the  firmness  of  the  flesh  by  con- 
traction of  the  muscles,  in  the  case  of  cod,  skate,  salmon,  and  some 
other  species.  The  popular  notion  that  fish  must  be  crimped  while 
it  is  alive  is  erroneous,  but  it  must  be  done  immediately  after  death, 
before  RIGOR  MORTIS  has  set  in.  It  is  said  that  crimped  fish  keeps 
fresh,  longer  than  fish  in  its  natural  state. 

TO   CHOOSE   FISH. 

The  first  necessity  for  fish  is  that  it  should  be  fresh.  Stiffness  and 
rigidity  of  the  flesh  are  a  sure  guide,  for  RIGOR  MORTIS  passes  off  in 
the  course  of  time,  and  the  flesh  then  becomes  flabby. 

Ihe  smell  is  not  a  sure  guide  if  the  fish  has  been  kept  in  ice,  for  it 
may  smell  fresh,  and  yet  change  directly  it  is  taken  from  the  ice. 

The  redness  of  the  gills  is  a  good  indication,  and  the  brightness  of 
the  eyes,  which  should  not  be  sunken  in  the  head. 

A  proof  of  freshness  and  goodness  in  most  fish  is  their  being  covered 
with  scales  ;  if  the  scales  are  deficient,  the  fish  may  be  stale  or  they 
may  have  been  damaged,  and  then  they  will  not  keep. 

In  flat-fish  the  skin  should  be  smooth  and  moist,  and  closely  ad- 
herent to  the  flesh.  It  is  a  bad  sign  if  the  skin  is  blistered. 

Salmon,  cod  and  the  large  fish  generally  should  have  a  bronze  tint 
when  freshly  cut.  Turbot  and  brill  should  have  yellowish  flesh. 

Very  large  fish  are  not  to  be  preferred,  as  they  are  probably  old  and 
tough.  A  flat  fish  should  be  thick  in  proportion  to  its  size  ;  all  fish 
should  have  large  girth  rather  than  great  length.  In  buying  a  slice 
of  fish,  it  is  better  to  choose  a  thick  slice  from  a  small  fish  than  a  thin 
slice  from  a  large  one. 

The  red-fleshed  and  oily  fish  cannot  be  eaten  too  soon  after  they  are 
out  of  the  water.  If  kept  they  should  be  cleaned  and  wiped  very  dry, 
and  laid  on  ice,  or  on  stones  in  a  current  of  air,  when  ice  cannot  be 
obtained.  The  larger  fish  can  be  hung  up  by  the  gills.  They  can  be 
parboiled,  and  so  kept  for  a  day  or  two. 

Turbot,  brill,  dory,  and  some  other  cartilaginous  white-fleshed  fish 
may  be  kept  for  a  day  or  two  with  advantage.  A  turbot  must  always 
be  hung  up  by  the  tail  until  it  is  ready  to  be  cooked.  White  fish  can 
be  rubbed  over  with  salt,  and  so  kept  for  a  day  or  two  ;  but  fish  loses 
nourishment  and  quality  in  the  process,  which  should  only  be  re- 
sorted to  when  absolutely  necessary.  Fish  that  is  not  quite  fresh 
can  be  improved  by  thorough  washing  in  vinegar  and  water,  or  per- 
manganate of  potash  and  water.  It  is  afterwards  better  fried  than, 
boiled,  but  no  dressing  will  entirely  conceal  its  quality. 


296  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Fish  in  Season. — Fish  should  be  not  only  fresh,  but  of  good 
quality  and  in  season.  Dr.  Pavy  says  :  "  The  quality  of  fish  as  an 
article  of  food  is  influenced  by  the  act  of  spawning,  and  presents 
considerable  variations  at  different  periods.  It  is  just  previous  to 
spawning  that  the  animal  is  in  its  highest  state  of  perfection.  Its 
condition  altogether  is  then  at  its  best  point.  The  animal  is  fatter 
than  at  any  other  period,  and  of  a  richer  flavour  for  eating.  During 
the  process  of  spawning  its  store  of  fatty  matter  is  drawn  upon, 
and  it  becomes  poor,  thin,  watery  and  flabby.  It  is  now  said  to 
be  '  out  of  season,'  and  requires  time  to  arrive  in  condition  again.  In 
fish  like  the  cod,  where  the  fatty  matter  accumulates,  specially  in  the 
liver,  this  organ  presents  a  most  striking  difference  in  volume  and 
condition  before  and  after  spawning  ;  whilst  in  such  fish  as  the  salmon, 
herring,  etc.,  where  the  fat  is  dispersed  amongst  the  flesh,  it  is  the 
body  which  affords  the  chief  evidence  of  change.  As  salmon  enters 
the  rivers  from  the  sea  for  the  purpose  of  depositing  its  spawn,  it  is 
plump  and  well  provided  with  fat.  On  its  return,  the  contrast  in  its 
condition  is  very  great.  It  is  now  so  exhausted  and  thin  as  to  be 
looked  upon  as  unfit  for  food."  When  fish  is  out  of  season  the  flesh  is 
bluish  in  colour,  and  lacks  firmness  in  texture.  It  does  not  become  flaky 
and  opaque  in  boiling,  and  there  is  none  of  the  coagulated  albumen,  or 
curdy  matter,  between  the  flakes.  The  boiling  has  something  to  do 
with  this  appearance  as  well  as  the  season. 

Fish  out  of  season  can  often  be  bought  at  a  low  price,  but  it  is  never 
cheap.  Some  few  fish  are  sold  all  the  year  round;  but  for  many  there 
is  a  close  time,  during  which  they  may  not  be  killed  or  sold  under 
penalty.  Any  one  who  sells  fresh  salmon  between  September  3  and 
February  i  is  bound  to  prove  that  it  was  caught  out  of  the  United 
Kingdom;  and,  failing  that,  is  liable  to  a  fine  of  £2.  A  good  deal  of 
Norwegian  salmon  is  brought  to  London.  Even  salted  and  dried 
salmon  must  have  been  cured  out  of  the  country  or  before  the  close 
season  began.  Trout  is  out  of  season  for  four  months  from  October.  In 
Scotland  there  is  no  close  time  for  trout,  which  is  protected  in  England 
and  Wales  between  October  2  and  February  i.  Other  fresh-water 
fish  are  protected  from  March  15  to  June  15,  by  a  law  passed  in  1878, 
but  they  form  so  small  a  part  of  the  national  food  supply  that  few 
persons  notice  their  absence  from  the  stalls  of  the  fishmonger.  Eels 
arc  by  far  the  commonest  of  fresh-water  fish.  Large  quantities  are 
caught  in  the  Lincolnshire  water-courses  and  Norfolk  Broads,  and 
800  tons  are  said  to  be  imported  annually  into  the  United  Kingdom 
from  Holland,  but  much  of  these  last  are  used  for  bait. 
•  The  quality  of  fish  depends  very  much  on  the  nature  of  their  food. 
As  a  rule,  fish  caught  in  the  open  sea  are  preferable  to  those  living  off 
headlands  or  in  an  inland  sea,  with  slow  current  and  shallow  water. 
Cod  is  not  only  better  in  the  coldest  weather,  but  it  is  never  so  good 
as  when  it  is  caught  in  the  extreme  northern  latitudes.  A  cheap  fish, 


FISH. 


i.     Steamed  Sole.         2.     Boiled  Mackerel.         3.     Boiled  Turbot. 
19  L* 


[.  Fillets  of  Sole,  Horley  Style.     2.  Fillets  of  Sole  with  Parsley  Sauce. 
3.  Lobster  Cream. 


20 


FISH  297 

good  of  its  kind,  is  always  very  much  to  be  preferred  to  an  expensive 
fish  of  inferior  quality. 

FYesh-water  fish  vary  according  to  the  nature  of  the  water  in  which 
they  have  lived.  When  taken  from  a  muddy  stream,  or  in  any  stagnant 
water,  they  are  often  scarcely  eatable;  while  those  of  the  same  species 
from  deep,  clear  streams  with  a  gravelly  bottom  have  an  excellent 
flavour.  This  is  especially  true  of  eels.  All  such  fish  are  greatly 
improved  by  being  kept  in  fresh  water,  and  carefully  fed  for  a  few 
days  before  they  come  to  table. 

Preserved  Fish. — Various  methods  are  resorted  to  for  preserving  fish. 
It  is  dried,  smoked,  salted,  put  up  in  oil;  or  a  combination  of  these 
methods  is  used,  the  object  being  to  remove  moisture  or  to  exclude 
air.  Of  tinned  fish  we  have  spoken  in  another  chapter.  The  fish  that 
are  most  easily  preserved  are  those  rich  in  oil  and  of  firm  fibre.  All 
fish  lose  nourishing  power  by  being  salted,  and  salt  cod  is  said  to  be 
the  least  nourishing  of  foods  commonly  eaten. 

Shell-fish  are  as  a  rule  difficult  of  digestion,  owing  to  the  toughness 
and  hardness  of  the  flesh.  The  Crustacea  commonly  eaten  are  the  lob- 
ster, crab,  crayfish,  shrimp,  and  prawn.  Of  these,  shrimps  are  the  least 
esteemed,  and  are  sold  at  a  low  price.  Prawns  are  sought  after  for 
garnishing,  and,  generally  speaking,  are  the  dearest  of  all  fish.  The 
crayfish  is  less  common  in  this  country  than  in  France,  where  it  is 
employed  to  make  the  celebrated  Bisque  soup,  and  also  largely  for 
garnish. 

Of  the  bivalve  shell-fish,  oysters  have  the  best  reputation,  both  for 
flavour  and  digestibility,  and  are  for  that  reason  given  to  invalids. 
Cooking,  especially  at  a  great  heat,  hardens  them,  and  so  renders  them 
less  digestible.  The  old  saying  is  that  oysters  are  in  season  when  there 
is  an  "  r  "  in  the  month,  i.e.,  from  September  to  April,  but  so  many 
foreign  oysters  are  now  in  the  market  that  they  are  sold  all  Un- 
round. Mussels  have  been  known  to  produce  poisonous  effects,  but 
the  cause  is  not  clearly  known ;  possibly  it  is  due  to  the  nature  of  their 
food.  Scallops  are  a  comparatively  cheap  and  not  unpalatable  food. 
XVhelks,  periwinkles,  cockles  and  limpets  are  eaten  in  enormous  numbers 
by  the  poorer  classes,  but  are  seldom  cooked  except  by  boiling. 

Reptiles  as  food. — The  green  turtle  is  the  only  reptile  that  we  appreci- 
ate as  a  food,  though  many  reptiles  are  eaten  in  different  parts  of 
the  world.  Turtles  sometimes  weigh  six  or  seven  hundred  lb.,  and  are 
imported  into,  and  kept,  in  this  country  alive.  Sun-dried  turtle, 
sold  in  pieces,  is  much  cheaper  than,  and  is  a  good  substitute  for, 
fresh  turtle.  Tinned  turtle  is  also  sold,  and  extract  of  turtle  is  recom- 
mended for  invalids.  These  preparations  can  be  bought  in  small 
quantities,  and  are  within  the  reach  of  many  who  could  not  procure 
fresh  turtle  soup. 

The  edible  frog  (rana  esculenta)  is  esteemed  in  many  parts  of  Europe, 
but  has  never  been  appreciated  by  English  people.  Only  the  hind  legs 
are  eaten. 


298  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  PREPARING  FISH. 

In  Preparing  Fish  of  any  kind,  the  first  point  to  be  attended  to  is  to 
see  that  it  is  perfectly  clean.  It  is  a  common  error  to  wash  it  too  much, 
as  by  doing  so  the  flavour  is  diminished.  The  best  way  to  clean  fish 
is  to  wipe  it  thoroughly  with  a  clean  damp  cloth.  If  the  fish  is  to  be 
boiled,  a  little  salt  and  vinegar  should  be  put  into  the  water,  to  give 
it  firmness,  after  it  is  cleaned.  In  consequence  of  the  amount  of  oil 
certain  fish  contain,  their  liver  and  roes  take  longer  to  cook  than  the 
flesh,  and  should  be  put  into  the  saucepan  before  the  fish  if  not  cooked 
separately.  Fish,  except  salmon,  should  be  put  into  warm  water,  and 
cooked  very  gently,  or  the  outside  will  break  before  the  inner  part 
is  done.  Hot  water  should  not  be  poured  ON  to  the  fish,  as  it  is  liable 
to  break  the  skin;  if  it  should  be  necessary  to  add  a  little  water 
whilst  the  fish  is  cooking,  it  ought  to  be  poured  in  gently  at  the  side  of 
the  vessel.  The  fish-plate  may  be  drawn  up,  to  see  if  the  fish  be  ready, 
which  may  be  known  by  its  easily  separating  from  the  bone.  When 
done,  it  should  be  immediately  taken  out  of  the  water,  or  it  will  become 
woolly.  The  fish-plate  should  be  set  crossways  over  the  kettle,  to  keep 
hot  for  serving,  and  a  cloth  laid  over  the  fish  to  prevent  its  losing  its 
colour.  The  exact  temperature  of  the  water,  at  the  time  of  placing 
the  fish  in  the  kettle,  depends  on  the  kind  of  fish  to  be  cooked.  If  it 
is  too  hot  the  skin  breaks,  and  if  it  is  cold  much  of  the  flavour  is 
lost  Fish  can  scarcely  cook  too  slowly;  steaming  is  often  better  than 
boiling. 

Fish  to  be  fried  or  broiled  must  be  dried  on  a  soft  cloth,  after  it  is 
well  cleaned  and  washed.  Prior  to  frying,  dip  it  lightly  in  flour, 
brush  it  over  with  egg,  and  cover  it  with  some  fine  crumbs  of 
bread.  The  fish  after  it  is  fried  must  be  thoroughly  drained  and 
freed  from  fat.  A  sheet  of  white  paper  must  be  placed  to  receive  it, 
in  order  that  the  superfluous  greece  is  absorbed.  It  must  also  be 
of  a  beautiful  colour,  and  all  the  crumbs  appear  distinct.  Butter  in 
frying  gives  a  bad  colour  to  fish  ;  lard  and  clarified  dripping  are 
most  frequently  used,  but  oil  is  considered  the  best.  The  fish  should 
be  put  into  the  fat  or  oil  when  as  hot  as  enough  to  immediately 
harden  the  surface.  There  should  be  sufficient  fat  to  well  cover  it. 

When  fish  is  broiled,  it  must  be  seasoned,  floured,  and  laid  on  a  very 
clean  gridiron,  which,  when  hot,  should  be  rubbed  with  a  bit  of  suet, 
to  prevent  the  fish  from  sticking.  It  must  be  broiled  over  or  before 
a  very  clear  fire,  that  it  may  not  taste  smoky ;  and  not  too  near, 
that  it  may  not  be  scorched.  Fish  may  also  be  baked,  stewed,  and 
made  into  soups.  In  choosing  fish,  it  is  well  to  remember  that  it 
is  possible  it  may  be  fresh  and  yet  not  good.  In  this  work  rules 
are  given  for  the  choice  of  each  particular  fish,  and  the  months 
when  it  is  in  season.  Nothing  can  be  of  greater  consequence  to  a  cook 
than  to  have  the  fish  good,  as,  if  this  important  course  in  a  dinner 
does  not  give  satisfaction,  it  is  rarely  that  the  repast  goes  off  well. 


FISH  299 

Keeping  Fish. — When  fish  is  cheap  and  plentiful,  and  a  larger  quantity 
is  purchased  than  is  immediately  wanted,  the  overplus  of  such  as  will 
bear  it  should  be  potted,  or  pickled  or  salted,  and  hung  up;  or  it  may 
be  fried,  that  it  may  serve  for  stewing  the  next  day.  Fresh-water 
fish  having  frequently  a  muddy  smell  and  taste,  should  be  soaked  in 
strong  salt  and  water,  after  it  has  been  well  cleaned.  If  of  a  sufficient 
size,  it  may  be  scalded  in  salt  and  water,  and  then  dried  and  dressed. 
Cod-fish,  whiting  and  haddock  are  none  the  worse  for  being  a  little 
salted  and  kept  a  day;  and  unless  the  weather  be  very  hot,  they  will 
be  good  for  two  days. 

Garnishing  Fish  requires  great  nicety.  Plenty  of  parsley,  horseradish, 
lobster  coral  and  lemon  should  be  used.  It  fried  parsley  be  used  it 
must  be  washed  and  picked,  and  thrown  into  fresh  water.  When  the 
lard  or  dripping  is  hot  enough,  squeeze  the  parsley  dry  in  a  cloth,  and 
throw  it  into  the  saucepan.  It  will  bubble  a  good  deal,  and,  therefore, 
it  is  better  to  lift  the  pan  from  the  fire.  In  a  few  seconds  the  parsley 
will  be  green  and  crisp,  and  must  be  taken  up  with  a  slice,  if  there  is 
no  frying-basket.  Well  dressed,  and  with  very  good  sauce,  fish  is, 
by  the  generality  of  people,  more  appreciated  than  almost  any  other 
dish.  The  liver  and  roe,  in  some  instances,  should  be  placed  on  the 
dish,  in  order  that  they  may  be  distributed  in  the  course  of  serving;  but 
to  each  recipe  is  appended  the  proper  mode  of  serving  and  garnishing. 

AVERAGE  PRICES  OF  FISH. 

Many  fail  to  realize  the  great  loss  by  bone  and  uneatable  matter 
there  is  in  most  fish,  and  how  much  they  pay  for  actual  food  ob- 
tained. 

As  a  general  rule  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that,  allowing  for 
bone,  waste  and  loss  of  weight  by  different  modes  of  cooking,  only 
about  £  the  original  weight  of  the  fish  is  left. 

By  consulting  the  following  table  it  will  be  seen  that  such  fish  as 
soles  and  smelts  are  very  expensive,  but  some  of  the  highest  priced 
fish  or  parts  of  fish  are  not  always  the  dearest.  Thus,  for  example, 
a  pound  of  flounders  can  be  bought  forsd.,  but,  by  reason  of  the  large 
amount  of  bone  they  contain,  they  cost  more  than  a  pound  of  eels  at 
iod.,  while  the  so-called  cheaper  parts  of  salmon,  yielding  so  much 
less  actual  eatable  matter,  are  in  reality  not  so  economical  as  the  best. 

Nothing  is  more  difficult  than  to  give  the  average  prices  of  fish 
and  no  other  article  of  food  varies  so  in  price,  inasmuch  as  a  few  hours 
of  bad  weather  at  sea  will,  in  the  space  of  one  day,  cause  such  a  differ- 
ence in  its  supply,  that  the  same  fish — a  turbot,  for  instance — which 
may  be  bought  to-day  for  six  or  seven  shillings,  will  to-morrow  be, 
in  the  London  markets,  worth,  perhaps,  almost  as  many  pounds. 
The  housewife  when  about  to  buy  fish  will  be  well  advised  not  to  set 
out  with  the  fixed  intention  of  buying  a  certain  kind  of  fish,  but  to  be 
guided  in  her  selection  by  the  state  of  the  market.  Often  she  will 


300 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


find  that  some  particular  fish  is  scarce,  and  that  in  consequence  it  is 
priced  far  beyond  its  worth,  and  quite  out  of  comparison  with  the 
prices  of  other  kinds  of  fish  which  are  plentiful  in  the  market.  The 
average  costs,  therefore,  which  will  be  found  appended  to  each  recipe, 
must  be  understood  as  about  the  average  price  for  the  different  kinds 
of  fish  under  normal  conditions,  and  when  the  various  sorts  are  of  an 
average  size  and  quality.  The  seasons  for  fish  also  slightly  vary 
with  the  year,  it  sometimes  happening,  for  instance,  that  salmon  is 
at  its  cheapest  and  best  a  little  earlier  or  later  than  usual.  Oysters, 
however,  always  come  in  and  go  out  at  the  same  time,  for.  from  April 
and  May  to  the  end  of  July  oysters  are  said  to  be  sick,  but  by  the  end 
of  August  they  become  healthy,  having  recovered  from  the  effects  of 
spawning.  When  they  are  not  in  season  the  males  have  a  black  and 
the  females  a  milky  substance  in  the  gill.  The  average  prices  of  fresh 
water  fish  are  not  given.  They  are  rarely  quoted  in  the  open  market, 
and  are  entirely  influenced  by  local  conditions. 


NAME    OF  FISH. 

HOW  USUALLY  COOKED. 

AVERAGE  PRICE. 



Cod    ^iiivio*  io.'>?-Hjqa  ' 

Fried  or  Boiled       •  •/& 

4d.  to  5d.  per  Ib. 

Cod  (head  and  sh'ld'rs  ) 

Boiled    .      .      ,      ff    t 

4d.  per  Ib. 

,,     (steaks)      . 
Conger  Eel    .      .      .    ••  «| 
Crab  .      .  f  .      .            . 

Fried  or  Boiled       .      . 
Stewed     iCVlfJ^   30AH3 
Usually  sold  cooked    . 

6d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 
4tl.  per  Ib. 
3d.  to  33.  each. 

Pels    rr  ™S7    .rfj  .'     . 

Fried  or  stewed       ;    ^}- 

lod.  to  is.  per  Ib. 

Flounders    i^f.'^.^  .      . 

Fried      .  ihuttt   v,      . 

6d.  per  Ib. 

Gurnet     
Haddock     [j,.    ^^  bni 
Hake 

Boiled    .      .      .      .      . 
Boiled  or  baked     ,.  .^4? 
Fried 

4d.  per  Ib. 
4d.  per  Ib. 
4d.  per  Ib. 

Halibut   .   (  .      .      . 

Boiled    ..... 

8d.  per  Ib. 

Baked    . 

8d.  to  is.  per  doz. 

John  Dory    .    •£rft«no&4 

Filleted        .      .      ,.-  //8f 
Boiled    .      .      f      .      . 

6d.  per  Ib. 
4d.  per  Ib. 

Usually  sold  cooked   . 

6d.  to  35.  6d.  each. 

Mackerel     Jlll  '  .'  ".'     . 
Mullet  (red)        '^-T  \<f 
(<>rev)  . 

Boiled  or  broiled    .  <or.r 
Fried      .      .      .      .  •  f  <vi 

Fried      .  ,  *>  •  ^   ,->;.-J,H 

3d.  to  6d.  each, 
is.  to  is.  6d.  per  Ib. 
lod.  per  Ib. 

Mussels    .   ;;f;r..f.)iv  fin[] 
Oysters    .      .,    .      ,'     . 
Plaice       .     •/•tfjwnoncR* 

Boiled  or  fried        .  •  l*  4* 

2d.  per  quart, 
fid.  to  2S.  6d.  per  doz. 
6cl.  per  Ib. 

is     3d     per    pint    and 

Salmon  (head)    ,„  .     . 
(middle)     ,      . 
„        (tail)     .      .'   V1 
Shad                     "rv?   •'•'-' 

Boiled    ,  j:(»«.'rnli'tii"'^l 
Fried      .  ."*      .      .      'f 
Boiled    .      .      .      .  JfV 
Boiled    .   >\  '!'">.  "'•'«?  'ttf 

from  is.  per  doz. 
is.  4d.  to  2S.  per  Ib. 
is.  3d.  to  2S.  per  11>. 
is.  lod.  to  2S.  6d.  per  Ib. 
8d  per  Ib. 

Skate       .  >n«m.>  . 

Boiled  or  fried        .  /  .  -e 

6d.  per  Ib. 

Smelts                          if  fff 

Fried 

is.  6d.  per  box. 

Soles        f   fija  F    M  *rf 
Trout       .  '  '•'     •  '    •      « 

Boiled  or  fried        .      .. 
Boiled    

is.  to  2S.  6d.  per  Ib. 
is.  to  2S.  per  11). 

Turhot     .  JJT(.'    .*3     . 
Whiting       .      .      .     . 

1  '-oiled      -'-Ti  •'-.'••'.      . 
Fried         .... 

8d.   to  is.  per  Ib. 
4d.  per  Ib. 

FISH  301 

GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  COOKING  FISH. 

FreshWater  Fish. — Of  the  various  ways  in  which  fresh-water  fish  may 
be  cooked,  boiling  is  the  least  suitable.  Many  varieties  lack  flavour, 
others  have  peculiarities  which  render  them  disagreeable  to  some 
persons,  and  should  therefore  be  disguised  by  a  liberal  use  of  sea- 
sonings, flavourings  and  sharp  sauces. 

Fish  to  Boil. — In  boiling  fish  it  is  advisable  to  use  a  fish-kettle, 
provided  with  a  strainer,  so  that  the  fish  can  be  gently  lifted  without 
breaking.  Failing  this,  the  fish  should  be  tied  in  muslin,  and 
placed  on  a  plate  at  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan.  Salmon  and  salmon 
trout  should  be  put  into  boiling  salted  water,  to  preserve  their 
colour;  but  other  kinds  of  fish  should  be  placed  in  warm  water, 
for  boiling  water  has  a  tendency  to  break  the  skin,  and  cold 
water  extracts  much  of  the  flavour.  Fish  should  always  be 
gently  simmered  after  boiling  point  is  reached,  otherwise  it  is  liable 
to  break.  It  should  also  be  cooked  in  the  smallest  possible  quantity 
of  water,  which,  when  practicable,  should  afterwards  form  the  basis 
of  a  fish  soup  or  fish  sauce.  Lemon- juice  or  vinegar  should  be  added 
to  the  water  in  which  white  fish  is  cooked,  as  it  tends  to  increase  its 
whiteness.  The  time  required  for  cooking  depends  more  on  the  thick- 
ness than  the  weight  of  the  fish,  but  as  soon  as  the  bone  separates 
readily,  the  fish  should  be  taken  from  the  water  and  kept  covered, 
on  the  strainer,  placed  across  the  fish-kettle,  until  required.  Fish, 
when  boiled,  should  always  be  served  on  a  strainer  covered  with  a 
folded  napkin.  It  is  usually  garnished  with  slices  of  lemon  and  tufts 
of  green  parsley,  a  little  additional  colour  being  sometimes  introduced 
by  means  of  lobster  coral,  prawns  or  crayfish. 

Fish  to  Broil. — This  method  of  cooking  is  an  extremely  simple 
one  when  proper  appliances  are  at  hand,  but  when  the  only 
means  available  are  those  usually  found  in  middle-class  kitchens, 
some  little  difficulty  may  be  experienced.  A  clean  gridiron  and 
a  clear  fire  are  indispensable  factors,  and  the  former  may  be 
easily  secured  by  heating  the  gridiron,  and  afterwards  rubbing 
it  repeatedly  with  soft  paper  until  perfectly  clean.  No  matter 
how  clear  and  bright  the  fire  may  appear,  more  or  less  smoke 
will  arise  from  it,  but  this  may  be  checked  to  some  extent  by  throwing 
on  a  good  handful  of  salt.  Fish  intended  for  grilling  should  be  thor- 
oughly dried,  then  brushed  over  with  oil  or  oiled  butter,  and  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Meat  also  needs  to  be  slightly  coated  with  oil 
or  butter,  otherwise  the  surface  may  become  dry.  The  gridiron  must 
be  heated  and  rubbed  over  on  both  sides  with  suet  or  fat,  to  prevent 
whatever  is  being  cooked  sticking  to  it.  For  the  same  reason  it  is 
necessary  to  move  the  meat  or  fish  occasionally,  using  meat-tongs 
or  a  knife  for  the  purpose,  thus  avoiding  making  holes  through  which 
the  juices  could  escape.  Delicate  fish  is  frequently  enclosed  in  oiled 
paper,  and  should  then  be  served  in  the  paper  in  which  it  was  cooked. 


303  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Fish,  to  Cure. — Empty,  wash  and  scale  the  fish,  and,  if  large,  cut  it 
down  the  back.  Rub  it  inside  and  out  with  common  salt,  and  let  it 
hang  in  a  cool  place  for  24  hours.  Mix  together  i  oz.  of  bay-salt,  % 
an  oz.  of  saltpetre,  £  an  oz.  of  brown  sugar,  and  rub  the  fish  well 
with  the  preparation.  Place  it  on  a  large  dish,  cover  it  lightly,  but 
completely,  with  salt,  and  allow  it  to  remain  undisturbed  for  48 
hours.  Turn  the  fish  over,  cover  it  with  fresh  salt,  and  let  it  remain 
for  24  hours  longer.  Drain  and  well  dry  the  fish,  stretch  it  on 
sticks,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry,  cool  place.  When  kept  for  a  great 
length  of  time,  it  will  be  necessary  to  well  soak  the  fish  before  cooking. 

Fish,  to  Fillet. — The  skin  must  be  removed  from  both  sides  of  a  sole 
before  filleting,  but  the  dark  skin  on  the  under  side  of  a  sole  is  nearly 
always  removed  by  the  fishmonger.  Plaice  is  frequently  filleted  with- 
out removing  the  skin,  although  it  is  better  to  strip  the  dark  skin  off 
the  back.  Whiting  and  haddocks  are  usually  skinned,  while  mack- 
erel are  very  seldom  skinned  before  being  filleted.  When  the  fish 
has  been  washed,  dried  and  skinned,  it  should  be  placed  flat  on  a 
board  or  table,  and  with  the  point  of  a  knife  cut  from  head  to  tail 
down  the  backbone.  Next,  insert  the  knife  in  the  slit  made,  and 
carefully  separate  the  fish  from  the  bone,  keeping  the  knife  pressed 
lightly  against  the  bone  meanwhile.  Remove  the  fillets,  trim  them 
neatly,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving. 

Fish,  to  Fry. — Fish  to  be  fried  should  be  well  dried  after  wash- 
ing, and  it  is  usually  cut  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving. 
Although  very  good  results  can  be  obtained  by  such  simple  means 
as  a  frying-pan  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  fat — providing 
the  fat  be  hot  and  the  fish  dry  and  slightly  floured — a  deep  pan 
containing  sufficient  fat  to  completely  cover  the  fish  is  desirable. 
Before  frying,  the  fish  should  either  be  dipped  into  well-seasoned 
batter  or  coated  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  in  the  latter 
case  it  should  first  be  rolled  in  a  little  flour  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  the  object  being  to  make  it  as  dry  as  possible, 
in  order  that  the  breadcrumbs  may  adhere  more  firmly.  The  fat 
should  be  very  hot  at  all  times,  but  its  temperature  must  be  slightly 
lower  when  frying  fillets  of  fish  than  when  frying  such  things  as  cro- 
quettes, rissoles,  etc.,  which  are  generally  composed  of  cooked  materials. 
When  the  surface  of  a  small  piece  of  bread  immediately  hardens  and 
slightly  changes  its  colour  on  being  immersed  in  the  fat,  the  tempera- 
ture is  right  for  raw  materials  or  anything  that  is  thickly  coated  with 
batter,  but  when  frying  anything  of  which  the  exterior  alone  has  to  be 
cooked,  it  is  better  to  have  the  fat  sufficiently  hot  to  at  once  brown 
whatever  is  immersed  in  it.  Small  things  are  nearly  always  fried  in 
a  wire  basket,  but  fillets  of  fish  are  dropped  into  the  fat,  and  when 
cooked,  taken  out  on  a  fish  slice.  Anything  fried  should  afterwards  be 
well  drained,  either  on  a  cloth  or  kitchen  paper.  Fish  is  usually  gar- 
nished with  lemon  and  parsley,  croquettes  and  other  dishes  of  the  same 


FISH  303 

class  with  parsley  alone,  while  fruit  fritters  should  be  liberally  sprinkled 
with  sugar  before  serving. 

Oil  may  be  strongly  recommended  for  frying,  but  clarified  fat, 
is  more  generally  employed  in  ordinary  households,  and  for 
all  frying  purposes  is  preferable  to  lard,  which  is  apt  to  impart  an  un- 
pleasant fatty  flavour.  All  fat  after  being  used  for  frying  should  be 
allowed  to  cool  slightly,  and  afterwards  strained  into  an  earthenware 
vessel.  Or,  after  repeated  use,  it  may  be  partially  purified  by  straining 
it  into  a  basin  of  boiling  water,  when  fragments  of  fish,  breadcrumbs, 
etc.,  will  sink  to  the  bottom,  and  may  be  scraped  off  as  soon  as  the  fat 
hardens. 

Fish,  to  Salt. — The  following  method  of  salting  fish  is  particularly 
suited  to  herrings,  mackerel,  and  other  small  varieties.  Choose  fish 
that  is  perfectly  fresh,  empty,  scale  and  clean,  but  do  not  wash 
them.  Make  a  brine  sufficiently  strong  to  float  an  egg,  put  in  the 
fish,  which  should  be  completely  covered,  and  let  them  remain  in 
the  brine  for  18  hours.  When  ready  drain  well,  place  them  in  layers 
in  an  earthenware  vessel,  covering  each  layer  thickly  with  salt. 
Cover  closely  to  completely  exclude  the  air,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry 
place.  The  fish  must  be  well  soaked  before  cooking. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING 
FISH. 

CHAPTER    XII. 

416.— ANCHOVIES,  FRIED.      (Fr.— Anchois  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — 12  anchovies.  For  the  batter  :  3  ozs.  of  flour,  £  of  a 
pint  of  tepid  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil,  or  clarified  butter, 
the  white  of  i  egg,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Wipe  the  anchovies  with  a  dry  cloth.  Sieve  the  flour,  and 
mix  it  into  a  smooth  batter  with  the  water  and  salad  oil.  Whip  the 
white  of  egg  stiffly,  and  stir  it  lightly  into  the  batter.  Have  ready  a 
deep  pan  of  hot  frying-fat;  dip  the  anchovies  carefully  into  the  batter, 
drop  them  into  the  hot  fat,  and  fry  until  they  acquire  a  golden-brown 
colour.  This  dish  is  more  suitable  for  a  breakfast  dish,  HORS  D'OEUVRE, 
or  savoury,  than  a  dish  to  be  served  in  the  fish  course  of  a  dinner. 

Time. — ^  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  for  this  quantity,  lod.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  if  treated  as  a  fish  course,  but  enough  for  6  or  7  if  served  as 
HORS  D'OEUVRE,  or  savoury.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

THE  ANCHOVY  (Fr.  anchois)  is  a  small  fish  belonging  to  the  Clupeidae  or  herring  family.  It  fre- 
quents the  Mediterranean,  the  waters  of  the  French  and  Dutch  coasts,  and  the  English  Channel.  It 
was  known  to  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  and  esteemed  by  them  as  a  delicacy.  The  anchovy  fishery 
is  carried  on  during  the  months  of  May,  June  and  July,  the  spawning  season.  Various  sauces  and 
condiments  are  made  from  this  fish. 

4 1 7. — BARBEL.     (Fr . — Barbeau. ) 

Ingredients. — i  or  2  barbel,  according  to  size,  2  anchovies,  2  onions 
(sliced),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  i  tablespoonful  of  salt,  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  mace  and  nut- 
meg to  taste. 

Method. — Soak  the  fish  in  slightly  salted  water  for  2  or  3  houi 
Put  into  a  fish-kettle  with  warm  water  and  the  salt,  and  boil  gentl 
until  done.  Take  i  pint  of  the  water,  and  add  to  it  the  otl 
ingredients  enumerated  above.  Simmer  gently  for  about  15  minut< 
then  strain,  and  return  to  the  saucepan.  Put  in  the  fish,  and  let 
heat  gradually  in  the  sauce,  but  it  must  not  boil  again. 

Time. — Altogether,  i  hour.     Sufficient  for  4  persons.     Seasonable  frc 
September  to  February. 


RECIPES  FOR  COOK IN(;  FISH  30$ 

THE  BARBEL  (Tr.barbeau).— This  fish  takes  its  name  from  the  four  filaments  or  barbules  which  fringe 

its  mouth   and  serve  as  the  organ  of  touch.     In  form  and  habits  it  much  resembles  the  pike.     The 

Mich  is  rounded  and  elongated  on  its  upper  part,  is  olive-coloured  and  bluish  on  the  sides ; 

the  tail  is  of  a  purple  tint.     By  means  of  its  upper  jaw,  which  is  much  longer  than  the  lower,  the 

barbel  is  enabled  to  burrow  in  the  mud  for  worms  and  other  food.     It  is  common  to  most  nvers, 

and  is  abundant  in  the  upper  reaches  of  the  Thames.     The  texture  of  its  flesh  is  coarser  than  that 

of  the  carp.     Barbel  and  other  fish  inhabiting  muddy  waters  should  always  be  soaked  in  water, 

slightly  salted,  for  some  time  before  cooking.     If  kept  alive  in  clear  water  and  fed  with  a  little  bran 

:ueal  the  flavour  is  greatly  improved. 

418.— BLOATERS,  BROILED. 

Ingredients. — Bloaters. 

Method. — Break  off  the  head,  split  the  back,  remove  the  roe,  and 
take  out  the  backbone.  Place  the  fish,  inside  down,  on  a  gridiron, 
cook  until  they  are  nicely  browned,  then  turn  them  over,  and  cook 
the  back.  Or,  if  preferred,  place  2  bloaters,  the  insides  together,  on  a 
gridiron,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire.  The  roes  should  be  cooked  and 
served  with  the  bloaters. 

Time. — 7  minutes.  Average  Cost,  i|d.  each.  Seasonable  from  Sep- 
tember to  February. 

419.— BREAM,  BROILED.     (Fr.— Breme  Grille.) 

Ingredients. — Bream,  anchovy  or  other  fish  sauce. 

Method. — Empty,  wash  and  thoroughly  dry  the  fish,  but  do  not 
scale  it.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire  until  thoroughly  cooked  and  nicely 
browned,  then  serve  with  anchovy,  or  other  fish  sauce. 

Time. — To  broil,  about  |  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  is.  per  Ib. 
Allow  6  to  8  oz.  per  head.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

THE  CHAR  (Fr.  umble).— This  is  r  fish  of  the  same  genus  as  the  salmon,  and  is  much 

esteemed.  It  is  plentiful  in  the  deeper  lakes  of  England.  Wales  and  Ireland.  It  also  occurs  in  Euro- 
pean lak  neva  being  especially  celebrated  for  its  char,  called  the  omkrc  cktvalier. 
The  char,  which  somewhat  resembles  the  trout,  but  1  more  slen<l- 

•  a  lighter  hue,  and  is  coloured  with  crimson  and  w!  •  colours 

varying  with  the  season.     When  spa wi.;  r  winter,  it  ascends  the  rivers. 

420.— BREAM,  BAKED.    (Fr. — Breme  cuit  au  four.) 

Ingredients. — Bream,  fish  forcemeat,  No.  415,  fat  for  basting,  an- 
chovy or  other  fish  sauce. 

Method. — Empty,  wash  and  dry  the  fish,  but  do  not  scale  it.  Make 
the  forcemeat  as  directed,  stuff  the  inside  of  the  fish,  and  sew  up  the 
opening  neatly.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  40  to  50  minutes, 
basting  occasionally  with  sweet  dripping.  Serve  with  anchovy  or  other 
fish  sauce.  If  preferred,  the  forcemeat  may  be  omitted,  and  the  fish 
wrapped  in  buttered  paper  and  baked  slowly  for  about  |  an  hour. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  8d.  to  is.  per  Ib. 
Allow  6  to  8  ozs.  per  head.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

42 1  .—BRILL  A  LA  CONTE.    (Fr  — Barbue  a  la  Conte. ) 

Ingredients.— A  brill  weighing  about  2|  Ib.,  i£  pints  of  stock,  i 
of  Burgundy,  a  tcaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 


306         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Clean  and  skin  the  fish,  and  cut  some  slits  down  the  back. 
Add  the  wine,  salt  and  pepper  to  the  stock;  when  warm  put  in  the  fish, 
and  simmer  gently  until  done.  Take  up  the  fish  and  keep  it  hot;  boil 
the  stock  rapidly  until  reduced  to  half  its  original  quantity,  then  add 
the  parsley,  and  pour  over  the  fish. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost. — 2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  from  August  to  April. 

To  CHOOSE  BRILL.— The  flesh  of  this  fish,  like  that  of  turbot,  should  be  of  a  yellowish  tint,  and 
should  be  chosen  on  account  of  its  thickness.  If  the  flesh  has  a  bluish  tint,  it  is  not  good. 

422.— BRILL.     (Fr.--Barbue.) 

Ingredients. — i  brill,  salt  and  vinegar  to  taste. 

Method. — Clean  the  brill,  cut  off  the  fins,  and  rub  it  over  with  a  little 
lemon-juice  to  preserve  its  whiteness.  Barely  cover  the  fish  with 
warm  water,  add  salt  and  vinegar,  and  simmer  gently  until  done  (about 
10  or  15  minutes  for  a  small  fish).  Garnish  with  cut  lemon  and  parsley, 
and  serve  with  one  of  the  following  sauces  :  lobster  sauce,  shrimp  sauce, 
Hollandaise  sauce,  or  melted  butter. 

Time. — From  10  to  20  minutes,  according  to  size.  Average  Cost, 
from  8d.  to  lod.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  at  any  time,  but  best  from  August 
to  April. 

THE  BRILL  (Fr.  barbue)  is  a  species  of  "  flat-fish,"  belonging  to  the  same  genus  as  the  turbot,  which 
it  resembles,  but  distinguished  from  it  by  the  perfect  smoothness  of  its  skin  and  its  less  breadth.  It 
is  sandy-coloured  or  reddish-brown  on  its  upper  side,  with  yellowish  or  reddish  spots.  The  brill 
averages  about  7  Ib.  in  weight,  and  is  esteemed  as  a  table-fish. 

423. -CARP,  BAKED.      (Fr.— Carpe  Farcie.) 

Ingredients. —  i  carp.  For  the  forcemeat:  8  sauce  oysters,  3  an- 
chovies boned,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  shallot  finely-chopped,  yolk  of  i  egg,  cayenne,  salt. 
For  coating  the  fish  :  i  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  For  the  sauce  :  £•  of  a 
pint  of  good  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  Worcester  sauce,  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  made  mustard.  Butter  for  basting. 

Method. — Clean  and  scale  the  fish;  remove  the  beards  of  the  oysters, 
and  simmer  them  for  15  minutes  in  a  little  fish  stock  or  water.  Cut  the 
oysters  into  small  pieces,  but  do  not  cook  them;  also  cut  the  anchovies 
into  very  small  pieces.  Mix  breadcrumbs,  oysters,  anchovies,  parsley, 
shallot  and  seasoning,  add  the  yolk  of  egg,  the  liquor  of  the  oysters, 
and  the  stock  in  which  the  oyster-beards  were  simmered.  Put  the 
forcemeat  inside  the  fish,  and  sew  up  the  opening;  brush  over  with  egg, 
and  cover  with  breadcrumbs.  Place  in  a  baking-dish  and  cook  gently 
for  about  i  hour,  basting  frequently  with  hot  butter.  Melt  the  butter, 
stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock,  and  stir  until  the  sauce  boils.  Simmer 
for  2  to  3  minutes,  then  add  the  mustard,  lemon-juice,  Worcester 
sauce,  and  the  gravy  (strained)  from  the  tin  in  which  the  fish 
cooked.  Garnish  the  fish  with  cut  lemon  and  parsley,  and  serve  the 
sauce  in  a  tureen. 


RECIPES   FOR  COOKING   FISH  307 

Time. — From  i|  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4 
or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

ic. — The  fish  may  also  be  stuffed  with  ordinary  veal  forcemeat. 

THE  CARP  (Fr.  carpe). — This  species  of  fresh  water  fish,  which  forms  the  special  type  of  the  family 
Cyprinidae  to  which  the  barbels,  tenches  and  breams  belong,  occurs  throughout  Europe,  and  fre- 
quents fresh  and  quiet  waters  and  slow-running  rivers.  It  feeds  chiefly  on  worms  and  aquatic  plants. 
During  the  winter  it  buries  in  the  mud.  The  mouth  of  the  carp  is  small,  the  jaws  toothless,  the  body 
smooth  and  of  an  olive-green  and  yellowish  colour,  and  arched  and  compressed,  the  scales  large ; 
the  gills  are  formed  of  three  flat  rays,  and  there  is  but  one  dorsal  fin.  The  carp  is  one  of  the  earliest 
known  fish  in  England.  It  was  much  preserved  in  ponds  by  the  monks,  for  table  use.  The  carp  is 
very  prolific  and  attains  to  a  great  age — to  too  years  and  even  longer.  The  flavour  of  the  carp  is 
influenced  by  the  character  of  its  habitat.  The  well-known  gold  fish  (Cyprinus  auratus),  supposed 
to  be  a  native  of  China,  is  allied  to  the  common  carp. 

424.— CARP,  BAKED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  carp,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  or  clarified  butter, 
i  tablespoonful  of  Worcester  sauce,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon- juice, 
i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  onion,  salt,  cayenne.  For  the  sauce  :  J  of  a  pint  of  milk, 
1 1  ozs.  of  flour,  1 1  ozs.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  coarsely-chopped 
gherkins,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  scale,  and  clean  the  fish,  and  place  it  in  an  earthen- 
ware baking-dish.  Mix  together  the  salad-oil,  Worcester  sauce, 
lemon-juice,  parsley,  onion,  season  well  with  salt  and  cayenne,  pour 
this  mixture  over  the  fish,  and  let  it  remain  in  it  for  at  least  2  hours, 
basting  at  frequent  intervals.  Cover  with  a  greased  paper  ;  bake 
gently  for  about  i  hour,  and  baste  well.  When  it  is  nearly  done, 
melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  bring 
to  the  boil,  and  simmer  for  5  or  6  minutes.  Place  the  fish  on  a  hot 
dish,  strain  the  gravy  in  the  tin  into  the  sauce,  add  the  gherkins,  season 
to  taste,  and  pour  over  the  fish. 

Time. — To  bake,  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

425.— CARP,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Carpe  Frite.) 

Ingredients. — i  carp  of  medium  size,  butter  or  fat  for  frying,  vinegar 
salt  and  pepper,  flour. 

Method. — Soak  the  fish  i  hour  in  salt  and  water,  then  split  it  open, 
lay  it  flat,  and  REMOVE  THE  GALL-STONE  FROM  THE  HEAD.  Dry 
well,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  cayenne,  dredge  with  flour,  and  fry  in  hot 
butter  or  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Garnish  with  cut  lemon  and  the  roe 
fried,  and  serve  with  anchovy  sauce,  No.  288. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

426.— CARP,  FRIED.      (Fr.— Carpe  Frite.)     (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  carp,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped 


3o8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

onion,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  i  good  pinch  of  ground  mace,  salt  and  pepper, 
2  lemons,  flour,  fry  ing-fat. 

Method. — Wash  and  clean  the  fish,  and  cut  it  into  fillets  of  convenient 
size  for  serving.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  onion,  parsley, 
herbs,  mace,  the  juice  of  £  lemon,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper.  Have  the  fillets  of  fish  as  dry  as  possible,  put  them  into  the 
stewpan  2  or  3  at  a  time,  and  fry  them  very  gently  for  10  or  15  minutes. 
Drain  well,  and  when  cool  dredge  with  flour  mixed  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  or  butter  until  nicely  browned.  Garnish 
with  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve  with  cut  lemon. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  23.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

427. — CARP,  Stewed.     (Fr. — Carpe  en  Ragout.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  carp,  i  pint  of  stock,  i  glass  of  claret,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  12  small  button  mushrooms,  2  ozs.  butter,  2  or  3 
small  onions,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  a  good 
pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  fish  in  vinegar  and  water,  and  cut  it  into  thick 
slices.  Slice  the  onions,  fry  them  until  brown  in  about  2  ozs.  of 
hot  butter,  then  put  in  the  stock,  wine,  mushrooms,  herbs,  nutmeg  and 
seasoning,  and,  when  warm,  add  the  fish,  and  simmer  gently  for  30  or 
40  minutes.  Take  out  the  fish  and  keep  it  hot.  Have  ready  the  flour 
and  the  remainder  of  the  butter  kneaded  to  a  smooth  paste,  add  it  to 
the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  and  simmer  and  stir  until  the  sauce  is 
cooked  smoothly.  Place  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and 
garnish  with  the  mushrooms  (heated  in  sauce),  fried  roe,  and  sippets  of 
toast. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

Note. — This  fish  can  be  boiled  plain,  and  served  with  parsley  and  butter 
sauce.  Chub,  char,  dace  and  roach  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
above. 

THE  CHUB  (Fr.  chabol)  resembles  the  carp,  but  is  somewhat  longer.  It  is  found  in  most  English 
rivers  ;  the  body  is  oblong  and  nearly  round,  bluish-black  on  the  upper  parts,  and  silvery  white  be- 
neath, the  head  and  gill-covers  are  yellow.  The  flesh  is  somewhat  coarse,  and  is  not  nindi  rstc.Miu  d 
as  a  table-fish  ;  the  head  and  throat  are  the  best  parts.  There  are  allied  American  species  of  the 
same  name.  The  scales  of  the  chub  were  formerly  used  in  in-laying  work. 

428.— COD.     (Fr.— Cabillaud.) 

Cod  may  be  boiled  whole;  but  a  large  head  and  shoulders  are  quite 
sufficient  for  a  dish,  and  contain  all  that  is  usually  served,  because, 
when  the  thick  part  is  done,  the  tail  is  insipid  and  overdone.  The 
latter,  however,  cut  in  slices,  makes  a  very  good  dish  for  frying,  or  it 
may  be  salted  and  served  with  egg  sauce  and  parsnips.  Cod,  when 


RECIPES   FOR  COOKING  FISH  309 

boiled  quite  fresh,  is  watery;  salted  a  little,  it  is  rendered  firmer.  The 
liver  is  considered  a  delicacy,  and  a  piece  should,  if  possible,  be  bought 
and  cooked  with  the  fish. 

429.—  COD,  CURRIED.    (Fr—  Cabillaud  au  Kari.) 

Ingredients.  —  2  Ib.  of  cod,  i  pint  of  white  stock  (fish  or  meat),  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  dessertspoonful  of  curry-powder, 
i  medium-sized  onion,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne,  a  tablespoonful  of 

lemon-juice. 

Method.  —  Wash  and  dry  the  cod,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  about  iV 
inches  square.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  cod  slightly, 
then  take  out  and  set  aside.  Add  the  sliced  onion,  flour,  and  curry- 
powder  to  the  butter  in  the  stewpan.  and  fry  15  minuu-s,  stirring  con- 
stantly to  prevent  the  onion  becoming  too  brown,  then  pour  in  the 
stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  afterwards  simmer  gently  for  jo  minutes. 
Strain  and  return  to  the  saucepan,  add  lemon-juice  and  seasoning  to 
taste,  bring  nearly  to  boiling  point,  then  put  in  the 
anddi  for  about  \  an  hour,  or  until  the  tish  becomes  thoroughly 

impregnated  with  the  flavour  of  the  sauce.     An  occasional  stir  must 
.  i-n   to  piv\rnt    the  li^h  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan. 
Tin-  remains  of  cold  fish  in.  i\  :.   in   which  ease   the  preliminary 

frying   may  be  omitted. 

Time.  —  1}  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  o<l.  to  n.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  '»  prrsons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 


•  '  taM^  ^fcj^  JM»-.pluni»<|BdLfp«ipil  • 

tail,  tli.  i  1  tli.-  si  L  -  i.-y  fftro^ifbbM.     Th»  glu- 

>ut  the  head  los«  t  ..  been  24  hours  out  of   the 

vvhich  th«  cod  should  be  fudged  it  thr  firmness  of  in  flesh  ;   if  trus  rise 

rt.-r  prrssun    •  ,.,xxl  ;    if  n<>!  Mgn  of   its  goodness 

.j'pe.ir.ince  of  the  ii  or  -side  of  i  mynfLqLJpet. 

•4i  will  bo  tirtn  when  cooked.     Stiffness  in  a  cod,  or  in  any  nllii!  H^lf 


430.—  COD,  HASHED.    (Fr.—  Rechauffe  de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients,     j  Ib.  of  cooked  cod,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  £  ozs.  flour,  i  pint 
milk,  j  pir.-  .hrimps,  j  1  salt  ,  mashed  potatoes,  ch« 

Method.     Hit  nd  tin-  buttrr  and  flour  in  a  .  and  fry  for  a  few 

minutes  \\ithout  allowing  them  to  colour.     Add  the  milk,  .uul  Mir  until 

boiling.      Put   in   the  cod,  tlakrd   into  small  pieces,  and   the  shrimps. 

<r    until    thoroughly    hot,    and    season    carefully. 

border    of   mashed   potatoes    on    a   hot  dish.     Pour 

the  hash  in  the  centre,  and  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  parsley  over  the 

top. 

Time.     \    an  hour.       Average  Cost  is.  iod.  to  2S.     Sufficient  for  4  or 
.     Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 


310  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

431.— COD'S  HEAD  AND  SHOULDERS.      (Fr.— Hure 
de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. — Cod's  head  and  shoulders,  salt,  lemon. 

Method. — Cleanse  the  fish  thoroughly,  and  rub  a  little  salt  over  the 
thick  part  and  inside  the  fish  i  or  2  hours  before  dressing  it,  as  this 
very  much  improves  the  flavour.  Lay  it  in  the  fish-kettle,  with  sufficient 
hot  water  to  cover  it.  Be  very  particular  not  to  pour  the  water  on 
the  fish  as  it  is  liable  to  break,  and  keep  it  only  just  simmering.  If  the 
water  should  boil  away,  add  a  little,  pouring  it  in  at  the  side  of  the 
kettle,  and  not  on  the  fish.  Skim  very  carefully,  draw  it  to  the  side 
of  the  fire,  and  let  it  gently  simmer  till  done.  Garnish  with  cut  lemon, 
and  serve  with  either  oyster  or  caper  sauce. 

Time. — 20  to  35  minutes,  according  to  size.  Average  Cost,  from  4d. 
to  9d.  per  Ib.  Allow  3  Ib.  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to 
March. 

THE  COD  (Fr.  cabillaud)  is  a  member  of  the  family  Gadidae,  to  which  the  haddocks,  whitings  and 
ling  belong,  characterized  by  long  gills,  seven  rayed  ventral  fins  attached  beneath  the  throat,  large 
median  fins,  and  a  cirrhus,  or  small  beard,  at  the  tip  of  the  lower  jaw.  The  body  is  oblong,  smooth, 
and  covered  with  small  soft  scales.  The  fins  are  enclosed  in  skin,  and  their  rays  are  unarmed ;  the 
ventral  fins  are  slender  and  terminate  in  a  point ;  the  median  fins  are  large.  The  cod  has  three  dorsal 
and  two  anal  fins.  It  is  a  gregarious  fish,  and  abounds  in  the  colder  waters  of  the  seas  of  Europe  and 
Newfoundland.  The  cod  is  caught  by  hand  lines  and  hooks,  baited  with  cuttle  fish  and  shell-fish 
of  various  kinds,  chiefly  on  the  great  banks  of  Newfoundland.  The  sounds  of  the  codfish  (Fr.  nau 
de  morue),  or  the  swim-bladders,  by  means  of  which  the  fish  ascend  or  descend  in  the  water,  are  taken 
out  of  the  fish,  washed,  and  salted  for  exportation.  The  tongues  are  also  cured,  while  from  the  liver 
considerable  quantities  of  oil  are  obtained.  This,  the  well-known  cod  liver  oil,  under  its  designation 
of  "  white,"  "  pale,"  and  "  brown,"  is  largely  used  in  cases  of  consumption,  its  easily  assimilated 
and  nutritive  qualities  rendering  it  valuable  in  wasting  diseases.  Its  chief  constituents  are  olein, 
palmitin,  stearin,  acetic,  butyric,  and  other  acids. 

432.— COD'S     LIVER     MINCED     AND     BAKED. 

(Fr. — Foie   de    Cabillaud  au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — A  cod's  liver,  12  sauce  oysters,  ±  of  a  pint  of  white 
sauce,  butter,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Parboil  the  liver  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces.  Blanch 
the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  which  afterwards  strain  and  add  to  the 
white  sauce.  Halve  or  quarter  the  oysters,  mix  them  with  the  pre- 
pared liver,  and  season  to  taste.  Place  the  mixture  in  buttered  scallop 
shells,  add  a  little  sauce,  cover  lightly  with  breadcrumbs,  and  on  the 
top  place  2  or  3  small  pieces  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven 
for  10  or  15  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time — To  bake,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  scallops.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

433.— COD'S     LIVER,      QUENELLES      OF. 

(Fr. — Quenelles   de  Foie  de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib,  of    cod's    liver,  2  tablespoonfuls    of    bread- 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  311 

crumbs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  the  yolks  of  2  or  3  eggs 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Wash  and  dry  the  liver,  chop  it  finely,  and  mix  with  it 
the  breadcrumbs  and  parsley.  Add  sufficient  yolk  of  egg  to  bind 
the  whole  together,  taking  care  not  to  make  the  mixture  too  moist. 
Season  to  taste,  shape  into  quenelles  (see  "  Quenelles  of  Veal  "),  poach 
until  firm,  and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — To  poach,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 
Seasonable  from  November  till  March. 

434.— COD  PIE.     (Fr.— Pate  de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  cold  cod,  i  doz.  oysters  (tinned  may  be  used) 
\  a  pint  of  melted  butter  sauce,  £  a  Ib.  of  short  paste,  or  mashed 
potatoes,  salt  and  pepper,  nutmeg. 

Method.— Take  off  the  beards  of  the  oysters,  simmer  them  for  a  few 
minutes  in  a  little  water,  then  strain  and  mix  with  the  oyster 
liquor  (from  fresh  oysters).  Cut  the  oysters  into  2  or  4  pieces,  accord- 
ing to  size  ;  divide  the  fish  into  large  flakes,  put  half  of  it  into  the  dish, 
lay  the  oysters  on  the  top,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  grate  on  a  little 
nutmeg,  add  the  melted  butter  sauce,  and  cover  with  the  rest  of  the 
fish.  Make  the  short  crust  paste  according  to  directions  given  for 
short  crust  paste.  Or,  when  a  potato  covering  is  preferred,  season  the 
potato  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  warm  and  stir  in  a  saucepan,  with 
a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  milk.  Bake 
about  £  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time.  From  i  to  i^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  oxi.  to  2s.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

435.— COD,  PROVENCALE  STYLE.      (Fr.— Cabillaud 
a  la  Pr oversale.) 

Ingredients. — About  2  Ib.  of  cod-fish  (middle  cut),£  a  pint  of  Veloutd 
sauce,  i  gill  white  wine,  2  small  shallots  (chopped  fine),  i  gill  white 
stock,  2  ozs.  butter,  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy-paste, 
2  teaspoonfuls  of  capers,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  small 
bunch  of  parsley  and  herbs  (bouquet-garni). 

Method. — Wash  and  wipe  the  fish  well,  place  it  in  a  stewpan,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  add  Veloute  sauce,  white  wine,  stock,  chopped 
shallots,  and  bouquet-garni.  Set  it  to  simmer  slowly  until  the  fish 
is  done,  basting  occasionally.  Put  the  fish  on  a  dish,  and  keep  warm. 
Reduce  the  sauce  until  the  desired  consistency  is  obtained.  Remove 
the  herbs,  add  the  yolks  of  eggs,  work  in  the  butter,  and  pass  the 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

ingredients  through  a  tammy  cloth  or  strainer.  Return  to  a  smallef 
stewpan,  add  the  anchovy-paste,  chopped  parsley  and  capers,  stir  a 
few  minutes  over  the  fire,  and  pour  over  the  fish. 

Average  Cost. — 2s.  6d.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Season- 
able from  November  to  March. 

436.-COD  RECHAUFFE.     (Fr.—  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cooked  cod,  £  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  No.  222, 
i  teaspoonful  of  mushroom  sauce,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy-essence, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  mustard,  butter,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Free  the  fish  from  skin  and  bones,  and  separate  it  into  large 
flakes.  Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  add  the  mushroom  sauce,  anchovy- 
essence,  mustard,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  put  in  the  fish,  mix 
well  together,  then  turn  the  whole  into  a  well-buttered  fireproof  baking- 
dish.  Cover  the  surface  lightly  with  breadcrumbs,  add  a  few  pieces 
of  butter,  bake  in  the  oven  until  well  browned,  then  serve  in  the 
dish. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  iod.,  exclu- 
sive of  the  fish.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  November 
to  March. 

437.— COD'S  ROE.     (Fr.— Laitance  de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients.— Cod's  roe,  melted  butter  (No.  202),  or  white  sauce 
No.  222,  cream,  brown  breadcrumbs,  salt,  vinegar. 

Method. — Wash  and  wipe  the  cod's  roe,  and  boil  for  10  minutes  in 
water  with  a  little  salt  and  vinegar.  Cut  into  dice,  and  put  into  some 
melted  butter  made  with  cream  or  white  sauce.  Butter  a  scallop  tin, 
put  in  the  roe,  cover  with  brown  breadcrumbs,  and  brown  in  the  oven, 
or  serve  it  on  hot  buttered  toast.  It  is  often  used  as  garnish  to  other 
fish. 

Time. — \    an    hour.     Average    Cost,    is.     Seasonable    in    the    Wint( 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

438.— COD'S  ROE.     (Fr.— Laitance  de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cod's  roe,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Boil  the  roe  for  15  minutes,  then  drain  and  cut  it  into 
slices.  When  cold,  brush  over  with  egg,  roll  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry, 
until  nicely  browned,  in  hot  fat. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  iod.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 


i.  Boiled  Cod  with  French  Sauce.     2.  Whitebait.     3.  Savoury  Haddock  in 

Rice  Border. 


21 


FISH. 


i.  Cod  Steak.          2.  Fish  Pic.        3.  Crab  Salad. 


22 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  313 

439.-—COD  SOUNDS.     (Fr.—  Nau  de  Morue.) 

Method. — These,  salted,  as  Jhey  are  generally  bought,  should  be 
soaked  in  milk  and  water  for  several  hours,  and  then  boiled  in  milk 
and  water  until  tender,  when  they  should  be  drained  and  served  with 
egg  sauce.  When  suitably  dressed,  they  may  be  served  as  an  entree 
or  breakfast  dish. 

Average  Cost. — 6d.     Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

440.— COD  SOUNDS  WITH  FRENCH  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Nau   de  Morue,  Sauce  Fran^aise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  cod  sounds.  For  the  batter  :  J  of  a  pint  of  milk, 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  i  egg,  £  a  tcaspoonful  of  salt.  For  the 
marinade  (or  brine)  :  2  tablespoonfuls  each  of  salad-oil  and  vinegar, 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  a  good  sprinkling  of  pepper,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Soak  and  boil  the  sounds  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  about  2  inches  square.  Mix  the  oil, 
vinegar,  parsley,  onion  and  pepper,  pour  over  the  sounds,  and  let  them 
remain  in  the  marinade  for  i  hour,  turning  the  pieces  of  sound  at  the 
end  of  \  an  hour  in  order  that  both  sides  may  absorb  the  flavour  of 
the  marinade.  Make  a  batter  of  the  milk,  flour,  egg  and  salt,  dip  each 
piece  of  sound  into  it,  take  out  on  the  point  of  a  skewer,  drop  into  hot 
lit,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned. 

Time. — 1|  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

441.— COD  SOUNDS  A  LA  MAITRE  D'HOTEL. 

(Fr.— Nau  de  Morue  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — 2  11  s.  of  cod  sounds,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  onion,  pepper. 

Method.— Soak  and  boil  the  sounds,  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces. 
Melt  the  butter,  fry  the  onion  for  2  or  3  minutes  without  browning, 
then  put  in  the  lemon-juice,  parsley,  a  good  sprinkling  of  pepper, 
and  the  tish.  Make  hot,  and  serve. 

Time.  About  i  hour,  after  soaking.  Average  Cost,  is.  f>d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

442.— COD  SOUNDS  WITH  PIQUANTE  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Nau   de   Morue,    Sauce   Piquante.) 

Ingredients.—  2  Ib.  of  cod  sounds,  j  of  a  pint  of  piquante  sauce,     No. 


3i4         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Soak  and  boil  the  sounds,  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces. 
Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  put  in  the  pieces  of  sound,  make  hot,  and 
serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour,  after  soaking.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  3d.  to 
is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to 
March. 

443.— COD  STEAKS.     (Fr.— Tranche  de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. — f-inch  slices  cut  from  a  medium  or  small  cod,  flour, 
salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat,  parsley. 

Method. — Make  a  rather  thin  batter  of  flour  and  water,  and  season 
it  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  sufficient  clarified  fat  or  dripping 
in  a  frying-pan  to  form  a  layer  about  £  an  inch  in  depth.  Wash  and 
dry  the  fish,  dip  each  piece  separately  in  the  batter,  place  these  at  once 
in  the  hot  fat,  and  fry  them  until  of  a  light -brown,  turning  once  during 
the  process.  Drain  well,  and  serve  garnished  with  crisply-fried  parsley. 
If  preferred,  the  fish  may  be  coated  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fried 
in  deep  fat.  Anchovy,  tomato,  or  any  other  fish  sauce  would  form  a 
suitable  accompaniment. 

Time. — To  fry,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  4d.  to  8d. 
per  Ib.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

444.— COD   WITH   CREAM.         (Fr.— Cabillaud   a   la 
Crime.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  cod,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of 
white  stock  (or  milk),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly.  Melt  2  ozs.  of  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  cod,  and  fry  quickly  on  both  sides 
without  browning.  Add  the  stock,  cover  closely,  and  simmer  gently 
for  about  20  minutes,  then  place  on  a  hot  dish.  Melt  the  remaining 
oz.  of  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock  in  which  the  fish  was 
cooked,  and  enough  milk  to  make  up  the  original  quantity  (£  a  pint), 
boil  up,  and  simmer  for  about  10  minutes  to  cook  the  flour.  Add  the 
cream  and  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and  strain  over  the  fish. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

445.— COD   WITH   CREAM.         (Fr.— Cabillaud   a   la 
Creme.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  cod,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i|  ozs.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint 
of  white  stock  or  milk,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon- juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  onion,  salt  and  pepper. 


KECIPES  FOR  COOKING  FISH  315 

Method. — Wash  the  cod  and  boil  it  in  a  very  small  quantity  of  water, 
which  afterwards  may  be  used  for  the  sauce.  Melt  the  butter,  fry  the 
onion  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  add  the  flour,  cook  for  ten 
minutes,  then  pour  in  the  stock  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Simmer  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  the  lemon-juice,  parsley,  seasoning,  cream,  and 
when  well  mixed  put  in  the  fish.  Draw  the  saucepan  to  the  side  of 
the  stove  for  about  10  minutes,  then  dish,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

446.— COD  WITH  PARSLEY  BUTTER. 

(Fr.— Cabillaud  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  cod  (cold  remains  will  serve),  4  ozs.  of  butter 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  the  juice  of  %  a  lemon,  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  cod,  and  afterwards  separate  into  large  flakes.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  onion,  and  fry  for  2  or  3  minutes 
without  browning  ;  then  put  in  the  parsley,  lemon-juice,  a  good  pinch 
of  pepper,  and  the  fish.  Shake  gently  over  the  fire  until  quite  hot, 
then  serve. 

Time. — 30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2S.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

447.— COD  WITH  ITALIAN  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Cabillaud 
a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  slices  of  crimped  cod,  £  of  a  pint  of  Italian  sauce 
(No.  252). 

Method. — Boil  the  cod,  take  out  the  middle  bone,  remove  the  skin, 
and  place  on  a  hot  dish.  Make  the  sauce  according  to  directions 
given,  strain  over  the  fish,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

448.— CRAB  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  de  Crabe.) 

Ingredients.— i  medium-sized  crab,  i  hard-boiled  egg,  3  tablespoonfuls 

of  salad-oil,   i   tablcspoonful  of  vinegar,   i  good  lettuce,   i   bunch  of 

watercress,  a  few  slices  of  pickled  beetroot,  a  tomato,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method.— Pick  the  meat  from  the  shell  and  shred  it  finely.     Wash  and 

y  the  lettuce,  and  either  break  or  cut  it  into  small  pieces  ;  wash  and 

k  the  cress,  and  break  it  into  small  pieces  ;  cut  the  tomato  into  thin 

Mix  the  oil,  vinegar,  salt   and  pepper,  put  in   the  salad,  stir 

lightly  until    thoroughly  mixed,   then  add   the  crab,  mix  well,  and 

arnish  with  the  slices  of  beetroot  and  tomato,  rings  of  white  of  egg, 

md  the  yolk,  previously  rubbed  through  a  wire  sieve. 


3i6  HOUSEHOLD  i  MANAGEMENT 

Average  Cost. —  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable 
from  April  to  October. 

449.— CRAB,  SCALLOPED.  (Fr.—  Crabe  enCoquille.) 

Ingredients.— i  or  2  crabs,  cream,  vinegar,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and 
pepper,  mustard. 

Method. — Remove  the  meat  from  the  claws  and  body,  taking  care 
to  leave  the  unwholesome  part  near  the  head.  Add  about  £  its  bulk 
in  fine  breadcrumbs,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  mustard, 
and  stir  in  a  few  drops  of  vinegar.  Add  cream  until  the  right  con- 
sistency is  obtained,  then  turn  into  buttered  scallop  shells,  and  sprinkle 
the  surface  lightly  with  breadcrumbs.  Place  small  pieces  of  butter 
on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  nicely  browned. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  35.  Sufficient, 
2  crabs  for  8  or  9  scallops.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

THE  CRAB  (Fr.  crabe). — The  popular  name  for  many  genera  of  the  Crustacea,  constituting  the  sub- 
order Brachyura,  "  short-tailed,"  which  includes  the  true  crabs,  order  Decapoda,  "  ten-limbed," 
and  distinguished  from  the  lobster  by  the  shortness  of  the  tail,  which  is  folded  under  the  broadened- 
out  body,  the  latter  being  covered  with  a  strong  carapace  or  shell.  The  gills  are  placed  in  the  sides 
of  the  body,  and  are  popularly  known  as  "  dead  men's  fingers."  The  liver  is  composed  of  a  soft  rich 
yellow  substance,  called  the  "  fat."  The  mouth  has  several  pairs  of  powerful  jaws,  and  the  stomach 
is  furnished  with  hard  projections  by  means  of  which  the  crab  grinds  its  food,  consisting  chiefly  of 
vegetable  matter  and  molluscae.  The  front  pair  of  legs  form  nipping  claws,  which  are  renewed  when 
injured  or  lost.  The  eyes  are  compound  and  movable.  The  majority  of  crabs  live  in  the  sea,  but 
there  are  some  fresh-water  species,  and  others  which  live  on  land,  but  go  to  the  sea  to  spawn.  After 
hatching,  the  young  of  the  crab  passes  through  two  stages.  In  the  first,  it  is  free-swimming  and 
possesses  a  tail ;  in  the  second  stage,  it  is  also  tailed,  but  after  moulting  it  loses  its  tail  and  becomes 
the  perfect  crab.  A  remarkable  feature  in  the  life-history  of  the  crab  is  the  changing  of  its  shell, 
to  permit  its  growth,  and  the  reproduction,  as  noticed  above,  of  injured  claws.  Annually,  usually 
during  the  winter,  the  crab  retires  to  a  cavity  in  the  rocks  or  beneath  a  great  stone,  and  conceals 
itself  until  the  new  shell,  which  at  first  is  very  soft,  becomes  hardened.  The  HERMIT  CRAB  derives 
its  name  from  its  habit  of  taking  possession  of  the  deserted  shell  of  some  mollusc,  the  hermit  crab 
having  no  shell  of  its  own.  The  crab  is  much  esteemed,  and  forms  an  important  fishery  on  the  Hnti.^h 
coasts. 

450. — CRAB,    TO    DRESS.      (Fr. — Crabe  or  Ecrevisse 
de  Mer.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium  sized  crab,  i  hard-boiled  egg,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  vinegar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Empty  the  shells,  mix  the  meat  with  the  vinegar  and  oil, 
and  season  well.  Clean  the  large  shell,  put  in  the  mixture  and  garnisl 
with  slices  of  lemon,  parsley,  and  egg,  the  yolk  rubbed  through  a  wii 
sieve  and  the  white  coarsely-chopped. 

Average  Cost. — lod.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Season- 
able from  April  to  October. 

To  CHOOSE  CRABS.— Crabs  of  medium  size  are  the  best,  and.  like  lobsters,  should  be  judged  by 
their  weight. 

451.— CRAB,  DRESSED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i   medium-sized  crab,  3   tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  2 


RECIPES  FOR   COOKING   FISH  317 

tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  breadcrumbs,  pepper  and  salt.  For  garnish- 
ing :  lobster  coral,  butter,  hard-boiled  egg,  or  parsley. 

Method. — Pick  the  meat  from  the  shell,  flake  it  into  small  shreds,  and 
add  to  it  the  same  proportion  of  finely-grated  breadcrumbs.  Season 
to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  then  mix  well  with  the  oil,  and  lastly 
the  vinegar.  Carefully  wash  and  dry  the  shell  and  put  in  the  mixture, 
garnishing  with  lobster  coral,  butter,  or  hard-boiled  egg  and  parsley. 

Average  Cost. —  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  4  persons.  Seasonable 
from  April  to  October. 

452.— CRAB,   DEVILLED.     (Fr—  Crabe  a  la  Diable.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  crab,  £  of  a  pint  of  thick  white  sauce, 
I  dessertspoonful  of  anchovy-essence,  I  dessertspoonful  of  chutney, 
i  teaspoonful  of  vinegar  (preferably  chilli),  i  teaspoonful  of  made 
mustard,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  cayenne,  salt 
and  pepper,  brown  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Pick  the  meat  from  the  shells,  and  put  one  claw  aside. 
Mix  together  the  white  sauce,  anchovy-essence,  chutney,  vinegar, 
and  mustard,  season  well  with  suit,  popper  and  cayenne,  then  add  the 
crab,  except  the  one  claw.  Clean  the  shell,  put  in  the  mixture, 
lightly  with  browned  breadcrumbs,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven 
for  about  15  minutes.  In  the  meantime  separate  the  meat  of  the 
remaining  claw  into  fine  flakes,  and  warm  between  two  plates  either 
in  the  oven  or  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Remove  the  crab 
from  the  oven,  and  garnish  with  the  flaked  claw  and  the  chopped 
parsley. 

Time.— i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

453.— CRAB,  HOT.     (Fr.— Crabe  au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  crab,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  j  ozs.  of  bread- 
crumbs, 3  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  browned  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Pick  the  meat  from  the  shell,  season  well  with  salt  and 
pepper,  add  a  little  nutmeg,  the  butter  slightly  warmed,  the  white 
sauce,  vinegar,  and  breadcrumbs,  and  mix  these  well  together.  Have 
ready  the  shell,  washed  and  dry,  put  in  the  mixture,  cover  with  a  thin 
layer  of  browned  breadcrumbs,  add  3  or  4  small  pieces  of  butter,  ami 
bake  for  10  or  15  minutes  in  a  brisk  oven. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons,  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

454.— CRAB  OR  LOBSTER,  POTTED. 

Ingredients. — 2  crabs  or  lobsters,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
3  yolks  of  eggs,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne,  clarified  butter. 


3i8  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Pick  the  meat  from  the  shells,  chop  it  finely,  and  then  put 
it  into  a  stewpan  with  the  butter  and  seasoning,  and  cook  slowly  for 
20  minutes.  Add  the  cream  and  yolks  of  eggs,  stir,  cook  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  has  the  consistency  of  thick  paste, 
then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  press  into  pots,  and  when  cold  cover  with 
clarified  butter. 

Time. — From  40  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  33.  Seasonable 
at  any  time. 

455.— CRAB,  POTTED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  crabs,  salt,  cayenne,  mace,  clarified  butter  (from 
4  to  5  ozs.). 

Method. — Pick  the  meat  from  the  shells,  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with 
the  seasoning,  rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  press  it  into  small  pots,  cover 
with  melted  butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  £  an  hour. 
When  cold,  cover  each  pot  with  clarified  butter. 

Time. — From  40  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Suffi- 
cient for  2  or  3  pots.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

456.— CRAYFISH,    POTTED.        (Fr.— Ecrevisses    en 
Terrine. ) 

Ingredients. — 4  doz.  live  crayfish,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  ground  mace,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  crayfish  into  boiling  water  to  which  has  been  added 
a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  a  little  vinegar,  cook  from  15  to  20 
minutes,  then  drain  and  dry.  Pick  the  meat  from  the  shells,  and  pound 
it  in  a  mortar  to  a  fine  paste,  adding  gradually  the  butter,  and  mace, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Press  into  small  pots,  cover  with  clarified 
butter,  and  when  cold,  use. 

Average  Cost. — is.  to  is.  3d.  per  dozen.     Seasonable  all  the  year. 

THE  DACE  (Fr.  vandoise)  called  also  the  DART,  is  found  usually  in  the  dull,  clear,  slowly-running 
streams  of  England  and  Europe.  It  is  allied  to  the  chub,  barbel  and  roach,  and  resembles  the  l.i*t, 
but  is  longer  and  thinner  in  the  body,  and  its  scales  are  smaller.  In  colour  it  is  dullish  blue  on  the 
upper,  and  white  on  the  under,  parts ;  the  gill-covers  and  sides  of  the  head  are  silvery  white.  The 
dace  is  gregarious  and  swims  in  shoals.  The  flesh  is  rather  coarse  in  quality. 

457.— DORY,  JOHN.     (Fr.— Doree  or  St.  Pierre.) 

Method. — This  fish,  which  is  e'steemed  by  most  people  a  great  delicacy, 
is  dressed  in  the  same  way  as  a  turbot,  which  it  resembles  in  firm- 
ness, but  not  in  richness.  Cleanse  it  thoroughly,  cut  off  the  fins  but 
not  the  head,  which  is  considered  a  delicacy,  lay  it  in  a  fish-k 
cover  with  warm  water,  and  add  salt  to  taste.  Bring  it  gradually  to 
near  boiling  point,  and  simmer  gently  for  15  minutes,  or  rather  longer, 
should  the  fish  be  very  large.  Serve  on  a  hot  napkin,  and  garnish 
with  cut  lemon  and  parsley.  Lobster,  anchovy,  or  shrimp  sauce,  and 
plain  melted  butter,  should  be  sent  to  table  with  it. 


RECIPES   FOR  COOKING   FISH  319 

Time. — After  the  water  boils,  £  to  4-  an  hour,  according  to  size. 
Average  Cost,  is.  to  33.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  all  the 
year,  but  best  from  September  to  January. 

Note. — Small  John  Dorys  are  excellent  baked. 

458.— DORY,  JOHN.     (Fr.—  Doree  a  la  Genoise.) 

Ingredients.— i  dory,  i  gill  of  picked  shrimps,  2  smelts,  i  teaspoonful 
of  anchovy-essence,  i  egg,  about  2  ozs.  of  panada,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
pepper  and  salt,  i  tablespoonful  of  Chablis  or  Sauterne,  Genoise  sauce 
(No.  301). 

Method. — Wash  the  fish,  wipe  it  and  remove  the  fillets  (the  bones, 
etc.,  may  be  used  for  the  Genoise  sauce).  Pare  the  fillets  ndatly,  and 
cut  them  into  oblong  pieces.  Remove  the  bones  and  heads  from  the 
smelts,  pound  them  together  with  the  shrimps  in  a  mortar  until 
they  are  quite  smooth,  then  add  the  panada  and  anchovy-essence, 
and  moisten  with  the  egg.  Mix  thoroughly,  season  to  taste,  and  rub 
the  whole  through  a  sieve.  Spread  each  piece  of  fillet  with  this  farce, 
fold  over,  and  place  them  on  a  well  buttered  saute-pan.  Season, 
lightly  moisten  with  the  wine  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  cover 
with  a  buttered  pape'r,  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  about  15  minutes, 
or  longer,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  fillets.  Take  up  carefully, 
and  dish  up  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  some  previously  prepared  Genoise 
sauce  into  the  pan  in  which  the  fish  was  cooked,  boil  up,  and  strain  over 
the  fillets.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  35.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year,  but  best  from  Scptc*mbcr 
to  January. 

THE  DORY  (Fr.  doree),  called  also  JOHN  DORY,  is  a  yellowish  golden-coloured  fish,  belonging  to 
the  mackerel  family,  distinguished,  as  a  genus,  by  its  divided  dorsal  fin,  the  spinous  part  of  which 
is  less  developed  than  the  soft  portion.  The  head  is  curiously  shaped,  and  the  body  compressed. 
Its  name  is  supposed  to  be  a  corruption  of  the  French,  jaunt  doree  ("  golden-yellow.").  The  dory 
is  highly  esteemed  as  a  table-fish,  and  its  flesh  when  dressed  is  of  a  beautiful  clear  white.  A  popular 
superstition  ascribes  the  peculiar  black  mark  on  each  side  of  the  fish  to  St.  Peter's  finger  and  thumb, 
the  dory  being,  so  runs  the  legend,  the  fish  from  which  the  apostle  took  the  tribute  money.  The 
and  in  the  Mediterranean  and  other  seas  of  Europe. 

459.— EELS  BOILED.     (Fr. — Anguilles  Bouillies.) 

Ingredients. — 4  small  eels,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  £  of  a  pint  of 
parsley  sauce  (No.  311),  a  little  salt. 

Method. — Clean  and  skin  the  eels,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the 
parsley,  a  little  salt,  and  warm  water  to  barely  cover  them.  Simmer 
gently  for  £  an  hour,  or  until  they  are  tender,  then  serve  with  the 
sauce  poured  over  thdm. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  is.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
:or  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  June  to  March. 

THE  EEL  (Fr.  anguillf).— This  name  is  applied  generally  to  fish  with  elongated  bodies,  but  is  scienti- 
tcally  restricted  to  certain  genera  of  the  Apodta,  fish  without  ventral  fins,  belonging  to  the  sub-order 
or  "  soft-finned."     The  eel  has  a  smooth  head  and  a  serpentine  body,  covered  with 


320  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

minute  detached  scales  which  are  frequently  concealed  by  the  skin,  the  absence  of  scales  being  conr- 
pensated  for  by  a  mucous  secretion,  which  renders  the  eel  proverbially  slippery.  The  lower  jaw 
projects  beyond  the  upper,  the  teeth  are  sharp,  and  a  swim-bladder  is  present.  Some  species  of 
eel  are  marine,  others  fresh- water,  while  some,  as  the  Anguilla,  live  in  both  elements.  The  coi^.-r- 
eel  is  exclusively  marine,  and  is  the  largest  of  the  eels.  The  eel  lives  in  the  mud.  among  weeds,  roots 
or  stumps  of  trees,  or  holes  in  the  banks,  or  the  bottoms  of  rivers,  where  they  often  grow  to  an  enor- 
mous size,  weighing  as  much  as  15  Ib.  or  16  Ib.  It  seldom  emerges  from  its  hiding-place  except  in 
the  night ;  and  in  winter,  on  account  of  its  great  susceptibility  to  cold,  it  buries  itself  in  the  mud. 
The  eel  is  noted  for  its  voracity  and  tenacity  of  life,  and  also  for  its  remarkable  fecundity,  the  young 
of  the  eels  which  spawn  in  the  estuaries  of  rivers  passing  up  the  streams  in  vast  numbers ;  such  a 
passage  is  called  the  "  eel-fare."  The  eel  frequently  migrates  from  one  habitat  to  another,  crossing 
over  the  intervening  marshy  land.  Various  methods  are  employed  for  capturing  the  eel,  river  eels 
being  usually  caught  in  wicker  baskets  with  funnel-shaped  mouths,  into  which  they  enter,  but  r.usm.t 
get  out.  Eels  are  also  taken  by  means  of  a  kind  of  trident,  called  an  eel-spear,  and  by  hooks  and  lines. 
Large  quantities  of  eels  are  caught  in  Holland,  from  whence  they  are  brought  alive  to  the  London 
market  by  boats  fitted  with  wells.  As  an  article  of  food,  they  are  largely  eaten  in  England,  but 
seldom  in  Scotland  ;  the  flesh  is  somewhat  fatty  and  insipid.  The  eel-like  fish,  Gymnotus  elcctricus 
of  South  America,  has  the  property  of  communicating  an  electric  shock  when  touched. 

Holland  is  very  famous  for  its  eels,  and  sends  large  quantities  to  London  ;  but  those  caught  in  the 
Thames  are  more  silvery  in  appearance,  and  are  considered  by  epicures  to  be  of  a  better  flavour. 

460.— EEL,  CONGER.          (Fr.^-Congre.    Anguille   de 
Mer.) 

This  is  much  esteemed  by  many  persons.  It  forms  the  basis  of  the 
well-known  soup  of  the  Channel  Islands,  and  is  made  into  pies  in  the 
West  of  England.  Like  a  tough  steak,  it  always  needs  long  stewing  or 
cooking,  as  the  flesh  is  remarkably  firm  and  hard.  It  can  be  cooked 
like  a  fresh-water  eel. 

THE  CONGER  EEL  (Fr.  anguillf  de  mer),  a  genus  of  marine  eels,  having  a  long  dorsal  fin  1>< 
near  the  nape  of  the  neck,  a  long  eel-like  body  destitute  of  scales,  and  the  upper  jaw  exten.! 
the  lower,  both  furnished  with  sharp  rows  of  teeth.     The  conger  eel  is  a  muscular  and  vor.ii  ; 
The  most  familiar  species  is  the  Conger  vulgaris,  abundant  on  the  English  coasts,  especially  oft  Corn- 
wall, which  sometimes  attains  to  a  length  of  10  feet,  and  over  100  Ib.  in  weight.     Its  colour,  wBfch 
varies  with  its  habitat,  is  a  pale  brown  above  and  greyish-white  underneath.     The  flesh  of  tin 
eel  is  coarse,  but  its  gelatinous  qualities  are  medicinally  valuable. 

461.— EEL,  CONGER,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Congre  roti.) 

Ingredients. — 2   Ib.   of    conger  eel,   suet-force :  see  Sauces,  No. 
butter  or  fat,  flour. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly,  stuff  it  with  the  prep 
forcemeat,  and  bind  it  with  tape.  Melt  the  butter  or  fat  in  a  baking- 
dish  or  tin,  put  in  the  fish,  and  baste  it  well.  Bake  gently  for  i  hour, 
meanwhile  basting  occasionally  with  fat,  and  dredging  the  surface  with 
flour.  Serve  witli  the  gravy  poured  round,  or,  if  preferred,  with 
tomato,  brown  caper,  or  a  suitable  fish  sauce. 

Time. — To  bake,  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib.  Suftkimt 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  September  and  November. 

462.— EEL,     CONGER,     BOILED.        (Fr.  -  -  Congre 
Bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — Conger  eel,  vinegar,  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  fish  into  a  fish-kettle  containing  just  enough  hot 
salted  water  to  barely  cover  it,  and  add  a  little  vinegar.  I.n  it  lmil. 
then  simmer  gently  for  about  £  an  hour,  or  until  tlu-  fi^h  ^< -j- 


FISH. 


i.— Oyster  Patties.          2. -Whiting.  3.— Turbot.  4.— Whitebait.          5.— Mackerel. 

6.— Mayonnaise  Salmon.        7.— Lobster.        8.— Crab. 


RECIPES  FOR  COOKING  FISH  321 

easily  from  the  bone.     Drain  well,  serve  garnished  with  lemon    and 
parsley,  and  send  parsley  and  butter  sauce,  or  any  fish  sauce  pre- 
ferred, to  table  in  a  tureen. 
Time.— To  boil,  about  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

463.— EEL,  CONGER,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Congre  frit.) 

Ingredients. — Conger  eel,  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  flour,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly,  and  cut  it  into  slices 
about  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Roll  lightly  in  flour  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot 
fat  until  lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  with  tomato  anchovy, 
or  any  suitable  fish  sauce. 

Time.— To  fry,  about  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

464.— EEL,  CONGER,  PIE.     (Fr.— Pate  de  Congre.) 

Ingredients. —  i  small  conger  eel,  rough  puff  paste,  or  puff,  i  tablespoon- 
ful  of  vinegar,  i  tcaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method.— Wash  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly,  remove  all  skin  and 
bones,  and  cut  it  i.ito  neat  pieces.     Place  these  in  layers  in  a  pie  dish, 
sprinkling  each    layer    with   salt,   pepper,   onion,    herbs   and   p;u 
add  water  to  three-quarters  fill  the  dish,  and  mix  with  it  the  vil 
Cover  the  fish  with  paste,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  i  hour, 
and  serve  cither  hot  or  cold. 

Time.— To  bake,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  Fish,  from  4d.  to  6d. 
per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 

465.— EEL,  CONGER,    STEWED.      (Fr.— Ragout    de 
Congre.) 

Ingredients.— 3  slices  off  a  medium-sized  conger,   i   onion  sliced,  a 
bouquet-garni     parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  cloves,  i  blade 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  )  of  a  pint  of  milk,  \  a  pint  of  water,  salt 
and  popper. 

Method.  Heat  the  water,  put  in  the  fish,  onion,  herbs,  mace,  cloves, 
d  a  little  salt  and  pepju  r,  and  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes.  Mean- 
while melt  the  butter  in  a  stcwpan,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  and  cook 
wrly  for  10  minutes  without  browning.  Strain  the  liquor  from  the 
i  on  to  the  prepared  butter  and  flour,  stir  until  boiling,  then  add  the 

'1  up,  pour  over  the  fish,  and  si : 

Time.— About  '.  an  h.,ur.  Average  Cost,  fish  irom  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  3 


322  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

466.— EEL,  COLLARED.        (Fr.— Anguille  en  Galan- 
tine.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  eel,  3  or  4  ozs.  of  veal  forcemeat  (No.  412),  a 
good  pinch  each  of  ground  cloves,  mace,  allspice,  mixed  herbs,  sage, 
salt  and  pepper,  fish  stock,  and  vinegar. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  head  and  tail  of  the  eel,  and  remove  the  skin 
and  backbone.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  enumerated  above  with 
the  forcemeat,  spread  the  eel  flat  on  the  table,  and  cover  its  inner  side 
with  the  mixture.  Roll  up  the  eel,  beginning  with  the  broad  end,  and 
bind  it  in  shape  with  a  strong  tape.  Have  ready  some  fish  stock,  made 
by  simmering  the  backbone,  head,  and  tail  of  the  eel  while  the  force- 
meat was  being  prepared.  See  that  it  is  well  seasoned  with  salt,  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  put  in  the  eel,  and  simmer  gently  for  about 
40  minutes,  then  press  the  eel  between  two  dishes  or  boards  until  cold. 
Meanwhile  add  allspice  and  a  little  more  vinegar  to  the  liquor  in  which 
the  eel  was  cooked,  simmer  gently  for  \  an  hour,  then  strain.  When  the 
eel  is  cold,  put  it  into  the  liquor  and  let  it  remain  until  required  for  use. 
The  eel  should  be  glazed  before  serving. 

Time. — About  i£  hours,  to  prepare  and  cook.  Average  Cost,  from 
9d.  to  is.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year 
round,  but  best  from  June  to  March. 

467.— EELS  FRIED.        (Fr.— Anguilles  Frites.) 

Ingredients. — I  or  2  medium-sized  eels,  I  tablespoonful  of  flour,  %  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs, 
parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Wash,  skin,  and  dry  the  eels  thoroughly,  and  divide  them 
into  pieces  from  2%  to  3  inches  long.  Mix  the  flour,  salt  and  pepper 
together,  and  roll  the  pieces  of  eel  separately  in  the  mixture.  Coat 
carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  lightly- 
browned,  then  drain  well,  and  serve  garnished  with  crisply-fried 
parsley. 

Time. — About  2,  minutes.  Average  Cost,  eels,  8d.  to  is.  perlb.  Allow 
2  Ib.  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  June  to  March. 

468.— EEL  PIE.      (Fr.— Pate  aux  Anguilles.) 

Ingredients. — i-J-  Ib.  of  eels,  |  a  pint  of  meat  stock,  i  tablespoonful 
of  mushroom  ketchup,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  pepper  and 
salt,  rough  puff  paste,  or  puff. 

Method. — Clean  and  skin  the  eels,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  about 
2  inches  long.  Put  the  heads,  tails,  and  fins  into  a  stewpan  with  the 
stock,  simmer  for  £  an  hour,  then  strain,  and  skim  well.  Place 
the  eels  in  a  pie-dish,  with  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  between 
*he  layers.  Add  the  lemon-juice  and  ketchup  to  the  stock,  pour  about 


RECIPES  FOR  COOKING   FISH  323 

half  of  it  into  the  pie-dish,  cover  with  paste,  and  bake  in  a  fairly-hot 
oven  for  i  hour.  Warm  the  remainder  of  the  stock,  and  pour  it  into 
the  pie  through  a  funnel  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from  the  oven. 

Time,     i  hour  to  bake.     Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.     Sufficient  for  5  persons. 
Seasonable  all  the  year,  but  best  from  June  to  March. 

469.— EEL  PIE.    (Fr.— Pate  aux  Anguilles.) 

(Another   Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  eels,  a  little  chopped  parsley,  i  shallot,  grated 
mitmei,',  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,   the  juice  of  |  a  lemon,  a  small  quan- 
tity of  forcemeat,  £  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel  (see  Sauces),  puff  paste. 
Method. — Skin  and  \\\ish  the  eels,  cut  them  into  pieces,  2  inches 

hem  ;  line  the  bottom  of  the  pie-dish  with  forcemeat.  Put  in  the 

;>rinkle  them  with  the  parsley,  shallot,  nutmeg,  seasoning   and 

lemon-juice,    cover    them    with  puff-paste,   ornament   the    top    with 

fancifully  cut  strips  of  paste,  brush  over  with  c.^g  yolk  and  bake  in 

iy  hot  oven  lor  about   i   hour.     Make  the  Bechamel   sauce   hot, 

ami  pour   it  into  the  pie  before  serving. 

Time. — From  \\  to  i$  hours.    Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2S.  6d.    Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  all  the  year,  but  best  from  June  to  March. 

470.— EELS    WITH    MATELOTE    SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Anguilles  a  la  Matelote.^ 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  eels,  f  of  a  pint  of  good  stock,  $  of  a  pint  of  * 

-erved  mushrooms,  2$  ozs.  of  butter,  i$  ozs.  of   flour,  salt  and 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  eels,  cut  them  into  three-inch  lengths, 
and  roll  them  in  flour  seasoned  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper, 
i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  eels  until  lightly  browned,  then  drain 
off  any  butter  that  remains.     Put  in  the  stock  and  wine,  bring  to  the 
boil,  and  simmer  gently  for  |  an  hour.       Meanwhile  melt  the  remaining 
butter  in   another  stewpan,  stir  in   the  flour,  cook   it   gently  until  it 
acquires  a  nut-brown  colour,  then  put  it  aside.     Drain  the  pieces  of 
m  the  stock,  and  keep   them   hot,  strain  the  stock,  add   to    the 
.cd  flour,  and  stir  until  boiling.     !  .  ly   the  mushrooms 

cooked,  heat  them  up  in  a  little  stock,  and  add  them  to  the  sauce, 
season  to  taste,  and  boil  gently  for  3  or  4  minutes.  Pour  the  sauce 

r  the  fish,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  33.  1033.  6d.     Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 

471.     EELS   WITH    TARTAR    SAUCE.         (Fr.— An- 
guilles a  la  Tartare.) 

Ififredtents.— 2  Ib.  of  eels,  i  a  pint  of  good  stock,  a  glass  of  sherry,  i 
egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  1}  ozs,  of  butter.    Tartar  sauce  (No.  213). 


324  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Wash,  skin,  dry,  and  cut  the  eels  into  pieces  2^  inches  long. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  eels  and  fry  until  brown,  then 
add  the  stock  (which  must  be  highly  seasoned)  and  sherry,  and  simmer 
gently  for  about  15  minutes.  Drain  well,  and  when  cool  brush  over 
with  egg,  roll  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned  in  hot  fat. 
Garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  tureen  of  tartar  sauce. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.,  exclusive 
of  the  sauce.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year,  but 
best  from  June  to  March. 

472.— EEL,  FRIED,     REMOULADE  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Fritote  d'Anguille  a  la  Remoulade.) 

Ingredients. — i  good-sized  eel,  yolks  of  3  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  oiled 
butter,  breadcrumbs,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  |-  a  teaspoonful  of  sweet 
herbs,  pepper  and  salt,  fat  for  frying,  \  a  lemon,  Remoulade  sauce  (No. 
271) 

Method. — Wash,  skin  and  clean  the  eel,  cut  off  the  tail  and  head, 
split  it  open,  and  take  out  the  bone.  Cut  into  neat  pieces  about 
i£  inches  long,  dry  well  on  a  cloth,  and  dip  these  in  a  little  flour 
previously  mixed  with  sufficient  salt  and  pepper  to  season.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  3  eggs,  add  the  oiled  butter,  sweet  herbs,  and  finely-chopped 
parsley.  Coat  the  pieces  well  in  this,  then  roll  in  breadcrumbs.  Fry 
them  in  hot  fat  to  a  golden  colour,  drain  well,  dish  up  on  a  hot  dish 
covered  with  a  folded  napkin.  Garnish  with  slices  of  lemon  and 
fried  parsley  and  serve  with  a  boat  of  Remoulade  sauce. 

Fried  eels  are  more  palatable  if  served  with  an  acid  sauce.  Lemon- 
juice  squeezed  over  the  fish  just  before  serving  will  greatly  improve  the 
flavour. 

Time. — To  fry,  7  or  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  3d.,  ex- 
clusive of  the  sauce.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  all  the 
year,  but  best  from  June  to  March. 

473.— EELS  STEWED.     (Fr.— Anguilles  a  1'Anglaise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  eels,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  medium-sized  onion, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Skin  and  clean  the  eels,  cut  them  into  pieces  about  2  inches 
long,  and  place  them  in  a  jar.  Add  the  butter,  the  onion  cut  into 
slices,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  cover  closely,  and  place  the  jar  in  a 
saucepin  of  cold  water,  which  must  be  brought  slowly  to  the  boil. 
Cook  until  the  eels  are  tender  ;  this  will  take  about  i£  hours  from  the 
time  the  water  boils.  When  done,  place  on  a  hot  dish,  and  strain  the 
gravy  over. 

Time. — From  2  to  2-J-  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd.  to  2S.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  June  to  March,  but  obtainable  all  the  year. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   FISH  325 

474.— EELS  STEWED.     (Fr.— Anguilles  a  la  Creme.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  oi  eels,  i  pint  of  good  stock,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 

cream,   i   tflass  of  port  wine,  I   teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  strip  of 

lemon-rind, 2  oz. of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion,  2  cloves,  salt,  cayenne. 

Method. — Wash  and  skin  the  eels,  cut  them  into  pieces  about  3  inches 

put  them  into  a  stewpan,  add  the  stock,  wine,  onion,  cloves, 

rind,  and  seasoning.     Simmer  gently  for  |  an  hour,  or  until 

tender,  then  lift  them  carefully  on  to  a  hot  dish.     Have  ready  the  butter 

and  flour  kneaded  together,  add  it  to  the  stock  in  small  portion 

until    smoothly    mixed    with    the   stock,  and    boil    for     10    minutes, 

then  put  in  the  cream  and  lemon-juice.     Season  to  taste,  and 

fish. 

Time.—]  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  from  2s.  6d.  to  35.  6d.      Sufficient  tor 
"iis.     Seasonable  from  June  ..  but  obtainable  all  the 

475.— EELS    STEWED.         (Fr.— Anguilles    au    Vin- 
Rouge.) 

Ingredients.— 2  Ib.  of  eels,  i  pint  of  brown  sauce,  |  of  a  pint  of  port 

i    dessertspoonful  of  lemon- juice,    i    teaspoonful  of  am 
essence,  i \  ozs.  of  butter,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Wa-  ad  dry  the  eels,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  about 

es  long.     Molt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  eels, and  fry 

until   nicely   bnmued.     Then  add  the  same,   wine,  anchovy-essence 

.uul  Milliner   very  gently  f°r  about   2O  niinu:< •-.      I  ill 

rcfully  on  to  a  h«>  the  Union-juice  to  the  sauce, 

Time.— From  30  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  Sufficient 

for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable,  obtainable  all  the  year,  bin  be- 
Jim-  h. 

476.— FISH  CAKES. 

Ingredients.—  I  us  of  any  cold  fish  ;  to  each  Ib.  allow  $  a  Ib. 

>hed  potatoes,  i  oz.  of  butter,  j  eggs,  breadcrumbs,  milk,  salt  and 

Method.     II. -at    the  butter   in  a  saucepan,   add    the*   fish   (coai 

«f  i  egg  milk 

•  voughly.     Stir  the  iiu 
minutes,  then  turn  on  to  a plal  ipe  into  run  n.  1 

in  hot  fat. 

to  one  lar  istead  of  several  smal ; 

-•  a  flat  tin,  and  shape  the  mixture  as  nnu  : 

;htly  browned 
;i:rs  in  •  ot  oven. 


326  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

This  dish  may  be  varied  by  the  addition  of  forcemeat,  made  of  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  suet,  2  tablespoonfuls  breadcrumbs, 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  grated  lemon- 
rind,  or  other  flavouring,  and  moistened  with  egg  or  milk.  Or  the 
forcemeat  may  be  made  of  i  tablespoonful  of  picked  and  coarsely- 
chopped  shrimps,  breadcrumbs,  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy- 
essence,  i  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  and 
a  little  milk.  When  using  forcemeat,  spread  one  half  of  the  fish-cake 
mixture  on  the  tin  in  the  form  of  a  sole,  spread  the  forcemeat  in  the 
centre,  leaving  bare  a  narrow  margin  at  the  sides,  cover  with  the 
remainder  of  the  mixture,  brush  over  with  egg,  sprinkle  with  browned 
breadcrumbs,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  35  or  40  minutes. 

Time. — About  £  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  for  12  small  cakes. 
Sufficient. — lib.  fish,  etc.,  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

477._FISH  CAKES  FROM  TINNED  SALMON. 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  salmon,  i  Ib.  of  mashed  potato,  milk,  i  egg, 
breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat,  parsley. 

Method. — When  using  cold  potato  stir  it  over  the  fire  with  a  little  milk 
until  quite  hot  and  smooth.  Chop  the  fish  coarsely,  add  it  to  the 
potato,  season  to  taste,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  mixed, 
adding  a  little  milk  if  too  dry.  Let  the  mixture  cool  on  a  plate,  then 
shape  into  small  rpund  cakes,  coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  gar- 
nished with  crisply-fried  parsley. 

Time. — Altogether,  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.  to  is. 

478.— FISH    CHOWDER. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cod,  haddock  or  whiting,  3  or  4  potatoes 
peeled  and  sliced,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  pickled  pork  cut  into  dice,  i  small  onion 
finely- chopped,  3  water  biscuits,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  i  pint  of  water, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  salt,  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  fish,  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces. 
Place  the  fish,  potatoes  and  pork  in  a  stewpan  in  alternate  layers, 
sprinkling  each  layer  with  onion,  herbs,  salt  and  pepper.  Add  the 
water,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for  40  minutes.  Meanwhile  soak 
the  biscuits  in  the  milk,  beat  out  all  the  lumps  with  a  fork,  and  stir  the 
preparation  into  the  stew  about  10  minutes  before  serving.  Add 
seasoning  to  taste,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  cook  the  chowder,  about  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about 
is.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

479.— FISH,  CROQUETTES  OF.      (Fr.— Croquettes    de 
Poisson.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  fish;  to  £  a  Ib.  of  which  allow  £  of  a  Ib.  of  mashed 


RECIPES  FOR   COOKING    FISH  327 

potatoes,  }  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  yolk  of  egg,  i  whole  egg,  breadcrumbs, 
milk,  salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Remove  all  skin  and  bone  from  the  fish,  then  chop  it 
coarsely.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stc\vpan,  add  the  fish,  potatoes,  yolk 
of  cpg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  sufficient  milk  to  moisten  it  thor- 
oughly. Stir  the  preparation  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed,  then  turn 
it  on  to  a  plate.  When  cold,  form  it  into  cork-shaped  pieces,  brush 
over  with  egg,  coat  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Drain  well, 
and  serve  garnished  with  crisply-fried  pars'- 

Time. — To  fry,  about  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  jd.  to  4d.,  in  addition 
to  *  Ib.  of  fish. 

480.— FISH,  FRICASSEE    OF.       (Fr.-Fricass6e      de 
Poisson.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  white  fish,  |  a  pint  of  milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  water, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  bay-leaf,  i  blade  of  mace,  i  pinch  of 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  lemon-juice  to  taste. 

Method. — Divide  the  fish  into  pieces  about  i|  inches  square.  Put 
the  milk,  water,  salt  and  pepper,  bay-leaf,  mace  and  nutmeg  into  a 
stewpan,  and  when  warm  add  the  fish.  Bring  to  the  boil  and  simmer 
for  10  minutes,  then  take  out  the  bay-leaf  and  the  mace.  Have  ready 
the  butter  and  flour  kneaded  together,  add  it  in  small  portions  to  the 
contents  of  the  stewpan,  and  stir  gently.  When  the  flour  is  mixed 
smoothly  with  the  liquor,  add  lemon-juice  and  seasoning  to  taste,  and 

Time.— About  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3 
>ns.     Seasonable  at  any   time. 

481.— FISH    AND    MACARONI.       (Fr.— Poisson  aux 
Macaroni.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fish  (cooked),  |  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  3  ozs,  of 
grated  cheese,  i  or.  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Remove  all  skin  and  bone  from  the  fish,  and  separate  it 
into  large  flakes.  Break  the  macaroni  into  pieces  about  i  inch  in 
length,  put  it  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  boil  rapidly  until  tender, 
veil-greased  pie-dish,  put  in  a  layer  of  fish,  season  well 
with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  with  macaroni,  and  add  a  good  sprinkling 
of  cheese  and  seasoning.  Repeat  until  the  dish  is  full.  Put  the  butter 
in  small  pieces  on  the  top,  and  bake  for  about  20  minutes  in  a  quick 

Time. — About    T    hour.     Average  Cost,   is.  6d.  to  23.     Sufficient  for  5 
Seasonable  at  any  • 


328  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

482.— FISH    AND    MACARONI.       (Fr.— Poisson   aux 
Macaroni.)    (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cooked  fish,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  i£  ozs.  of 
grated  cheese,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  £  of  a  pint  of  white 
sauce  (see  sauces,  No.  222). 

Method. — Remove  all  skin  and  bones,  and  separate  the  fish  into  small 
flakes.  Put  the  macaroni  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  rapidly 
for  about  20  minutes,  or  until  tender,  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces. 
Heat  the  white  sauce,  add  i  oz.  of  cheese,  the  fish  and  macaroni,  season 
to  taste,  and  mix  well  together.  Turn  the  preparation  into  a  buttered 
pie-dish,  sprinkle  the  remaining  cheese  on  the  top,  and  add  the  butter 
in  small  pieces.  Brown  in  a  hot  oven,  and  serve  in  the  dish. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

483.— FISH    AND    OYSTER    PIE.          (Fr.—Pate    de 
Poisson  aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  any  cold  fish,  such  as  cod  or  haddock,  i 
dozen  oysters,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  breadcrumbs  or  puff-paste, 
sufficient  for  the  quantity  of  fish,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg, 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  melted  butter  or  white  sauce. 

Method. — Clear  the'  fish  from  the  bones,  put  a  layer  of  it  in  a  pie-dish, 
add  a  few  oysters,  with  nutmeg  and  chopped  parsley.  Repeat  this 
till  the  dish  is  quite  full.  A  covering  may  be  formed  either  of  bread- 
crumbs, which  should  be  browned,  or  puff-paste,  which  should  be  cut 
into  long  strips,  and  laid  in  cross-bars  over  the  fish,  with  a  line  of 
paste  first  laid  round  the  edge.  Pour  in  some  sauce  No.  202,  melted 
butter,  or  a  little  thin  white  sauce,  and  the  oyster-liquor,  then  bake. 

Time. — If  madd  of  cooked  fish,  %  of  an  hour  ;  if  made  of  fresh  fish  and 
puff-paste,  £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

484.— FISH  PIE.     (Fr.— Pate  de  Poisson.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  each  of  cold  fish  and  mashed  potatoes,  2  eggs. 
i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  and  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet, 
enough  milk  to  reduce  the  mixture  to  the  consistency  of  very  thick 
batter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Chop  the  fish  coarsely,  mix  it  with  the  potatoes  and  suet, 
add  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  the  eggs  and  milk,  and  beat 
well.  Turn  into  a  greased  pie-dish,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
i  £  to  i£  hours.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  baked. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.,  exclusive  of  the 
fish.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


FISH. 


in  ji  ily.  uiiy. 


>ut  \\ith  \Vhiti-  Sauce. 
M* 


FISH. 


i.  Fish  Cakes.          2.  Fish  Quenelles.          3.  Cold  Fish  Timbales. 


RFJ'NT.S   FOR  COOKING  FISH  329 

485.— FISH  PIE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients.— i  li>.  of  any  cold  fish,  2  ozs.  of  oiled  butter,  some  mashed 

teaspoonfuls  of  anchovy-sauce,  cayenne  to  taste. 
Method.  ic  fish,  and  season   with   the  anchovy -sauce  and 

I 'ut  it  in  a  well-buttered  pie-dish,  lay  a  little  oiled  butter 
>p,  fill  up  with  the  potatoes,  and  bake  for  15  minutes. 
Time.— 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,    is.  to    is.   3d.      Sufficient   for  4 
Seasonable  at  any  tune. 

486.  -FISH  PUDDING.     (Fr.—  Pouding  de  Poisson.) 

Ingredients.  — i  lt>.  of  any  kind  of  white  fish,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped 

_'  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  i   teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  pa 
^  of  a  pint  of  milk,  or  stock  mad'  li  bones,  2  egi  .hops 

Method.  ;i  and  bones,  and  pound  it  will  with 

t     when  making  it  \\ithout   the  aid  of  a  mortar,  chop  the  fish 
.mil  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve)  ;  add  th 

cpper,  anchovy-e-  1  mix  \\«-ll  ;  U-at    the  eggs  slightly, 

add  the  milk  or  li>h  M<  tir  into  the  mixture.      Ha\ 

!  plain  mould  or  basin,  put  in  the  mixture.  ,ith  a 

in   gently  for  nearly    i±  hours.       Serve 

uce. 

Time.—  Altogether  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

487. -FISH  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  de  Poisson.) 

Ingredients,      i  ll>  of  o .  Mayonnaise  sauce. 

Method.  Id  fish  (almost  any  kind  of 

white  •  linon  will  do\  put  this  in  a  largr  mixing  l>oul,  add  to 

h  its  (ju.intity  <»f  lettuce,  was!  ,  also  one- 

fourth  of  whit--  cleaned  celery  (if  in  season).     Cut  the  celery  into  - 
orstni  11  carefully,  adding  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.     Arrange 

in  a  salad   bowl,  and   pour   over   some   Mayonnaise  dn 
ly  with  hard-boiled  egg,  cut  into  slices.     When  a 
use  shredded  chicory,  endive  or  slicv  .cs. 

Time.     JQ  minutes.      Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to    is.  6d.     Sufficient 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

488.     FISH  STEW.       (/-Y-Ragout  de  Poisson.) 

Ingredients.      ;   or  4  small  floui  or  other  win 

umbs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  pa 
oonful  <»:  lemon-rind,  2  eggs,  ^  an  oz.  of  butter, 

.blcspoonful  oi  lemon-juice,  mace,  ginger, 

ilt. 


330 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


Method. — Clean,  wash  and  dry  the  fish,  and  cut  it  into  neat  fillets. 
Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  some  of  the  smaller  pieces,  and 
coarsely  chop  the  fish,  which  should  fill  2  tablespoons.  To  this  add 
the  breadcrumbs,  parsley,  lemon-rind;  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
bind  with  a  little  beaten  egg,  and  shape  into  small  balls.  Melt  the 
butter,  fry  the  onion  slightly,  add  a  pinch  each  of  ginger,  mace  and 
cayenne,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Put  in  the  filleted  fish,  barely 
cover  it  with  hot  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  then  lay  the  forcemeat  balls 
on  the  top  of  the  fish.  Cover  with  a  greased  paper,  to  keep  in  the  steam, 
simmer  gently  for  1 5  to  20  minutes,  then  transfer  to  a  hot  dish.  Strain 
the  liquor  over  the  remainder  of  the  beat  en  eggs,  replace  in  thestewpan, 
season  to  taste,  and  add  the  lemon-juice.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
until  the  sauce  begins  to  thicken,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  boil, 
or  it  may  curdle,  then  pour  over  the  fish,  and  serve. 

Time.— Altogether,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

489.— FLOUNDERS.      (Fr—  Carrelets  en  Souchet.) 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  flounders,  %  a  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  i  slice  of  parsnip, 
6  peppercorns,  i  small  onion,  i  small  bunch  of  herbs,  parsley,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  carrot,  turnip  and  parsnip  into  very  fine  strips 
and  cook  them  till  tender  in  slightly-salted  water  or  fish  stock.  Trim 
the  fish,  and  place  it  in  a  deep  saute-pan,  with  the  onion  cut  up  in 
slices,  the  bunch  of  herbs  and  peppercorns,  add  a  little  salt,  and  pour 
on  sufficient  water  to  well  cover  the"  fish.  Allow  it  to  come  to  the 
boil,  and  cook  gently  for  about  10  minutes.  Take  up  the  fish  and 
place  it  on  a  deep  entree  dish,  sprinkle  over  the  shredded  cooked 
vegetables  and  some  finely-chopped  parsley,  add  a  little  of  the  fish 
liquor,  and  serve. 

Time. —  To  cook  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2S.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year,  most  plentiful  from 
August  to  November. 

490.— FLOUNDERS,  BOILED.    (Fr.— Carrelets  bouil- 
lis.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  flounder,  salt,  vinegar. 

Method. — Wash  the  fish,  put  it  into  a  fish-kettle  with  just  sufficient 
water  to  cover  it,  add  salt  and  vinegar  to  taste,  bring  gently  to  the 
boiling  point,  and  simmer  for  5  or  10  minutes,  according  to  the 
thickness  of  the  fish.  Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — After  the  water  boils,  5  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from 
6d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient,  6  ozs.  to  8  ozs.  per  head,  with  bone.  Seasonable 
all  the  year  ;  most  plentiful  from  August  to  November. 

FLOUNDER  (Fr.  carrelet  [m],  limandt  I/]).— A  flat-fish  found  in  abundance  on  the  British  coasts,  and 
near  the  mouths  of  large  rivers.  It  also  thrives  in  ponds.  The  flounder  is  brown  on  one  side  of  its 
body  and  white  on  the  other ;  its  eyes  are  situated  on  the  riq;ht  side.  The  dab  is  closely  allied  to  the 
flounder.  The  flounder  is  one  of  the  commonest  of  fishes,  and  large  quantities  are  sent  to  the  Lon- 
don market.  The  Cesh  of  the  flounder  is  cosily  digested. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKINC,    KiSIl  331 

491.— FLOUNDERS,  BROILED.          (Fr.  —  Carrelets 
Grilles.) 

Flounders,  when  sufficiently  large,  are  very  nice  broiled  on  a  gridiron 
over  or  in  front  of  the  fire,  with  a  little  bntter  rubbed  over.  Small 
plaice  cooked  in  the  same  manner  arc  excellent. 

492.— FLOUNDERS,  FRIED.    (Fr.— Carrelets  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — Flounders,    egg    and    breadcrumbs,    boiling    fat, 

Method. — Cleanse  the  fish,  and,  2  hours  before  they  are  required,  rub 
them  inside  and  out  with  salt,  to  render  them  firm.     Wash  and  wipe 
them  very  dry,  dip  them  into  egg,  and  sprinkle  over  with  brcadcrur 
fry  them  in  boiling  fat,  dish  on  a  folded  napkin  or  fish  paper, 
garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — To  fry,  from  10  to  15  minutes,  according  to  size.     A?erage 
Cost,  jd.  to  is.  each,  according  to   size   and   season.     Allow  fro; 
to  8  ozs.  per  head  for  breakfast  ;  rather  less  when  served    in  the 
course  of  a  dinner.     Seasonable  all  the  year  ;    most  plentiful  from 
August   to  November. 

493-— FROGS,    STEWED.        (Fr— Ragoflt    dc    Gren- 

ouilles.) 

Inffrtdlenta. — 6  or  8  frogs,  salad-oil,  $  of  a  pint  of  white  wine,  i  tabie- 
spoonfuls  of  truffle  liquor,  8  fresh  button  mushrooms,  ^  of  a  pint  ot 
brown  sauce,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — The  hind -quarters  of  the  frogs  alone  are  used,  and  they 
should  b«  carefully  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  body.  Cover  the 
bottom  of  a  saut-  h  .1  thin  layer  of  salad-oil,  and  when  thor- 

oughly hot  place  in  it  the  frogs'  legs.     Fry  quickly  for  *  or  3  minn 
ing  the  legs  once  dun  rocess,  but  most  t 

,.     Drain,  place  in  a  casserole,  add  th^ 

]uor,  mushrooms  previously  well-washed  to  free  them  from 

>on  to  taste.     Stew  very  gently  for  about  30  minute*, 

i  transfer  carefully  to  a  hot  dish,  and  strain  the  wine  into  a  small 

stewpan.     Boil  quickly  until  well  reduced,  then  add  the  brown  sat-. 

<m  tn  taste,  make  thoroughly  hot,  pour  over  the  cooked  frog,  and 

494.— GARFISH,  STEWED.        (Fr.— Brochct  4  1'An- 
glaise.) 

Ingredients.-    j  medium-sixed  garfish,  i  onion  sliced,  a  bouquct-garni 
af),  2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,,  l}  OM.  of  butter, 
i)  Off.  of  flour,  i  pint  of  stock  or  water,  salt  and  pepper.   , 


332  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Remove  the  skin,  which  would  otherwise  impart  a  disagree- 
able oily  taste  to  the  dish,  and  cut  the  fish  into  pieces  i£  inches  long. 
Bring  the  stock  or  water  to  simmering  point,  put  in  the  fish,  onion, 
herbs,  mace,  cloves,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  gently 
for  20  minutes.  Meanwhile  melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
flour,  and  stir  and  cook  slowly  for  10  minutes  without  browning.  /Strain 
the  liquor  from  the  fish  on  to  the  prepared  butter  and  flour,  stir  until 
boiling,  then  season  to  taste,  strain  over  the  fish,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  uncertain.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons. 

Note. — Garfish  may  also  be  boiled,  broiled  or  baked,  according  to  the 
recipes  given  for  cooking  eels  and  conger  eels. 

495.— GRAYLING,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Ombre  roti.) 

Ingredients. — 2  medium-sized  grayling,  £  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter, 
No.  202,  butter  for  basting. 

Method. — Empty,  wash  and  scale  the  fish.  Dry  it  well,  place  it 
in  a  baking-dish  in  which  a  little  butter  has  been  previously  melted, 
and  baste  well.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  with  a  greased 
paper,  and  bake  gently  from  25  to  35  minutes,  basting  occasionally. 
Make  the  melted  butter  as  directed,  taking  care  that  it  is  very  thick, 
and  a  few  minutes  before  serving  strain  and  add  the  liquor  from  the 
fish.  Place  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  then  serve. 

Time. — From  25  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  uncertain.  Sufficient 
for  4  persons.  Seasonable  in  July  and  August. 

496.— GRAYLING,    BROILED.          (Fr.— Ombre  a  la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — 4  small  grayling,  lemon-juice,  salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Empty,  scale,  wash  and  thoroughly  dry  the  fish.  Brush 
it  over  with  salad-oil,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  broil  over  a 
clear  fire  until  sufficiently  cooked  and  nicely  browned.  Serve  gar- 
nished with  quarters  of  lemon. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  uncertain.  Sufficient  for 
4  persons.  Seasonable  in  July  and  August. 

497.— GRAYLING,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Ombre  frit.) 

Ingredients. — 4  small  grayling,  parsley  sauce,  No.  311,  egg,  bread- 
crumbs, frying-fat,  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Empty,  scale,  wash  and  dry  the  fish,  remove  the  gills  and 
fins,  but  leave  the  heads.  Roll  in  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely 
browned.  Serve  with  parsley  and  butter  sauce,  or  any  other  sauce 
preferred. 

Time. — To  fry,  8  or  9  minutes.  Average  Cost,  uncertain.  Sufficient  for 
4  persons.  Seasonable  in  July  and  August. 


REUl'1-.S   F<>k  moKlNr,   FISH  333 


ll-known  fi^h  i>  .1  member  of  the  carp  family,  and  is  found  through- 

It  UMi.illv  swims  in  shoals,  ami  inli  tl 

^reen  tinted  with  blue,  with  a  silvery-white  belly,  and  bright  red  fins.     It  is 
in  seaton  from  March  to  September. 

498.—  GUDGEONS.      (Fr—  Goujons  Panes  et  Frits.) 

Ingredients.     (  .  e^r.    breadcrumbs.    frvin 

Method.  --t'le.m  tl;  !  remo\c  the  plls,  but  do  not  scrape  off 

the  scales.  l>rv  well,  dip  them  in  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  them 
in  hot  hi  until  nicely  browned. 

Time.  -Krom  4  to  6  minutes  to  fry.  Average  Cost,  6d.  per  Ib. 
Allow  j  or  3  per  hr.id.  Seasonable  irom  June  t<>  November. 


^oujcm).  a  member  family,  is  fou-  (lowing  streams  and 

ith  black  spots,  the  abdomen  white.  he  gudgeon  are 

i  v-rr  it  a  small  barbule  or  hUment 

fish  was  esteemed  ly  both  the  Greeks  and  the  Romans.     It  is  abundant  in  1  tuner  a:   : 

499.  -GURNET,  OR  GURNARD.       (Fr.—  Gournal.) 

Ingredients,     i  medium-sued  gurnet, 

Method.     •  1    \\d>h  '    cut   off   the   fins   and 

ly  just  enough  warm  water  to  cover  it. 
put  in  the  fish,  brinv  slowly  to  near  Ixiil-.ng  point,  and  cook  gentlv  t.»r 

.ith  anch  .  sauce. 

Time.  —  To  boil,  from  25  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from    is.  to 

.     Sufficient  f«>;  Seasonable  from  Octobei 

but  in  a  in  Oci 

500.  -GURNET,  BAKED.     (l<r.     Gournal  auFour.) 

Ingredients,     i     in 

Method.  lins  and  pll>. 

re  tlie  1«  ;  .is  directed,  put  it  inside  the  fish,  and  s< 

e  tail  in  the  mouth  of  the  fish,  place  it  in  a 
ith  hot  fat  or  butter,  cover  \sith 

ices  of  bacon,  and  !  moderate  oven  from  35  to  45  minutes. 

It  m.t  <>r  anchovy  sauce. 

Time.  —  Altogether,  about  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  from   is.  to  2S.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.     Seasonable  from  October  t«  > 


•  MARD  (Fr.  ftmmmt).— This  sea-water  fish  is  remarkable  for  its  curiously  angular 

i«  covered  with  bony  plates,  and  armed  with  spines.    The  colour  of  UM  ftns 

which  varies  in  different  species,  b  blue  or  red.    The  jaws  are  furnished  with  numerous  sm 

The  my  and  the  r«d  nvnet  are  the  species  molt  common  to  our  British  coasts.      The  flying  foratt 

"•n  of  the  Indian  seas,  and  is  also  found  in  the  Mediterranean.    The  gurnet  is  an  excellent 

t.H      : 

501.     HADDOCK,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Eglefin  au  Four.) 

Ingredient  Idock,    veal    foru 

.•Icnimbs,  lit  for  basting. 


334  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Wash,  clean,  and  scale  the  fish.  Make  the  forcemeat  as 
directed,  put  it  inside  the  haddock,  and  sew  up  the  opening.  Truss 
in  the  shape  of  the  letter  S.  by  means  of  a  string  securely  fastened  to 
the  head  of  the  fish,  the  trussing  needle  being  passed  through  the  body 
of  the  fish  while  held  in  the  required  shape,  and  the  string  afterwards 
secured  to  the  tail.  Brush  over  with  egg,  cover  lightly  with  brown 
breadcrumbs,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  30  to  40  minutes, 
basting  occasionally  with  hot  fat.  Serve  with  anchovy  or  melted 
butter  sauce. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  from  i  to  i|-  hours.  Average  Cost, 
from  is.  2d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  August 
to  February. 

502.— HADDOCK,  BOILED.      (Fr.— Eglefin  bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  fresh  haddock,  salt. 

Method. — Clean  and  wash  the  fish,  cover  it  with  warm  ivater,  add  salt 
to  taste,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  cook  gently  from  20  to  30  minutes.  Serve 
with  anchovy,  parsley,  or  melted  butter  sauce. 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  large  haddocks,  8d. 
to  is.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  August  to  Febru- 
ary. 

503.— HADDOCK,     DRIED,     AND     TOMATOES. 
(Fr. — Merluche  fume  aux  Tomates.) 

Ingredients.— i  small  dried  haddock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  or  3  small 
tomatoes,  i  teaspoonful  of  ftnely-chppped  onion,  -J-  a  tsaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  boiled  rice. 

Method. — Lay  the  haddock  in  a  tinxwithalittlewater',  and  bake  it  for 
10  minutes,  then  take  away  the  skin°and  bones,  and  separate  the  fish 
into  large  flakes.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  oaion  slightly, 
add  the  tomatoes  sliced,  and  cook  until  soft.  *  Now  put  in  the  fish  and 
parsley,  season  to  taste,  and  stir  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the 
fish  is  thoroughly  hot.  Arrange  the  boiled  rice  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  serve  the  fish  in  the  centre  of  it. 

Time. — 25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

504.— HADDOCKS,  DRIED.     (Fr.— Merluche  fume.) 

Dried  haddocks  are  best  cooked  either  in  the  oven  or  on  the  top  of 
the  stove  in  a  tin  surrounded  by  a  little  water  to  create  steam,  which 
prevents  the  surface  of  the  fish  becoming  hardened.  Medium-sized 
'ones  should  be  cooked  whole,  and  before  sending  to  table  an  incision 
should  be  made  from  head  to  tail,  and  the  backbone  removed.  The 
fish  should  be  plentifully  spread  with  butter,  sprinkled  with  pepper, 
SHd  served  as  hot  ad  possible. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   FISH  335 

505.— HADDOCK,  FRIED.      (Fr.— Eglefin  frit.) 

i  aiul  dry  a  fresh  haddock,  cut  down  the  back,  separate  the  flesh 
iron  tin-  bone,  and  cut  into  nice  fillets.  Brush  over  with  egg,  cover 
lighly  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  golden-brown  in  hot  iat. 
Ganish  \\ith  fried  parsley. 

THE  IADDOCK  (Fr.  efUfi*).— This  well-known  fish  belongs  to  the  same  family  (Gadidat)  as  the  cod, 
which  itmuch  res<-,,Hes  in  its  general  conformation.  The  lower  jaw  is  furnished  with  a  barbule, 
and  the  tark  lateral  line  of  the  back  is  very  conspicuous.  A  similar  superstitution  ascribes  the  dark 
spot  on  tther  side  of  the  body,  behind  the  pectoral  fins,  to  the  impression  of  the  thumb  and  finger 
of  St.  Pet-,  as  in  the  case  of  the  marks  on  the  John  Dory.  The  haddock  abounds  on  the  north-east 
coast  of  B*ain  and  some  parts  of  the  coasts  of  Ireland.  It  is  a  popular  article  of  food,  and  is  eaten 
fresh,  or  dr-d  and  cured.  The  Finnan  kaddock  is  the  common  haddock  cured  and  dried,  and  tuk,  -, 
its  name  fro*  the  fishing  village  of  Findhorn,  near  Aberdeen,  which  has  obtained  a  hi^h  re 
for  its  meth4  of  curing  haddocks. 

506.— HVKE,  BAKED. 

Ingredients— 4  slices  off  a  medium-sized  hake,  i  teaspoonful  of 
fmely-choppd  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  butter, 
salt  and  peper,  flour. 

Method — Vash  and  dry  the  fish,  and  place  the  slices  side  by  side 
in  a  bating-dsh.  Dredge  well  with  flour,  season  liberally  with  salt 
and  peppr,  spread  over  on  the  parsley  and  butter,  and  add  about  i  oz.  of 
butter  iiumail  pieces.  Bake  gently  for  ^  an  hour,  basting  occasionally, 
then  pla*  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  liquor  over  it,  and 

Time.-About  *  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  peons.  Seasonable,  April  to  August. 

Notf. — ny  of  the  methods  given  for  cooking  cod  and  halibut  may  be 
applied  toake,  but  baking  will  be  found  the  most  palatable  ctory. 

507.-HLIBUT,     BAKED.       (Fr.— Halibute  rotie.) 

Ingrediei. — 2  Ib.  of  halibut,  cut  in  one  thick  slice,  i  oz.  of  butter 
or  drippir,  flour,  salt  and  pepper.. 

Method. -Wash   and   dry   the  fish   thoroughly,  sprinkle  it   liberally 
with  salt  al  pepper,  and  dredge  well  with  flour.    Place  it  in  an  eartlu  n 
bakii-dish  or  pie-dish,  add  the  butter  in  small  pieces,  and  bake 
ly  for  xmt  i  hour.     Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  the  liquid  from  tlu- 
iish  ad  poured  round. 

Time. — .tout  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  is.  6d.  per  11..  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  arsons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  H ALI«  Fr.  fUtan),  Hififvgiatsus  vtOgfru,  also  called  the  koltbut,  b  the  largest  of  the  flat  fish, 
<?iRhs  over  400  Ib.     It  is  more  elongated  in  shape  than  the  turbot,  to  which  it  is 
in  qml .  its  flesh  being  dry  and  of  less  flavour,  although  it  is  much  esteemed  as  a  Uble- 
nsh.  ,  t  on  both  skies  of  the  Atlantic  on  the  coasts  in  northern  latitudes,  and  i 

rids.     The  inhabitants  of  Greenland  preserve  it  for  use  in  the  winter  by  cutting 

-  and  drying  these  in  the  air      The  1:  .libut  U  brownish  in  colour,  with  darker 

mai kings,  ad  ,«hue  on  the  under  surface.     An  oil  is  obtained  from  this  nsh,  chiefly  from  the  boon. 


336  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

508.-  HALIBUT,  BAKED.     (Fr.—  Halibute  au  lard.; 

Ingredients. — i  slice  of  halibut,  about  2  inches  thick,  ham  or  baon, 
butter,  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wipe  the  fish  carefully,  place  it  in  a  baking-dish  in  wlich 
a  little  butter  has  been  melted,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dredge 
it  liberally  with  flour,  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  30  miiutes, 
basting  frequently,  and  occasionally  dredging  with  flour,  then  cover 
the  entire  surface  with  rashers  of  bacon  or  ham.  Continue  tc  cook 
slowly  for  £  an  hour  longer,  then  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  the^iquor 
strained  over,  and  the  ham  or  bacon  arranged  neatly  round  the^ase. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  is.  6d.  per  Ib.  sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

509.— HALIBUT,  BOILED.     (Fr.— Halibute  kmilli.) 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  Ib.  of  halibut,  £  a  pint  of  anchovy,  fo.  288,  or 
shrimp  sauce,  or  No.  314,  i  lemon,  parsley,  salt. 

Method. — Add  salt  to  hot  water  in  the  proportion  of  i  02  to  i  quart, 
put  in  the  fish,  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  and  simme?  very  gently 
from  25  to  30  minutes,  or  until  the  fish  will  part  easily  fom  Hie  bone. 
Drain  well,  arrange  on  a  hot  serviette,  garnished  with  sices  <f  lemon 
and  parsley,  and  serve  the  sauce  separately. 

Time. — To  boil,  from  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  t<  is.  per 
Ib.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

510.— HALIBUT,    COQUILLES    OR     SCALLOB    OF. 

(Fr. — Coquilles  de  Hsibute.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  halibut,  white  sauce,  No.  222,  grated  armesan 
cheese,  salt  and  pepper,  browned  breadcrumbs,  butter. 

Method. — Flavour  the  sauce  to  taste  with  Parmesan  chees<  Divide 
the  fish  into  large  flakes,  put  these  into  buttered  scallop  shls,  cover 
with  sauce,  and  sprinkle  thickly  with  browned  breadcrumbs^  To  each 
add  i  or  2  small  pieces  of  butter,  cook  from  15  to  20  miiites  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  from  30  to  40  minutes.  Ajrage  Cost, 
is.  3d.  for  6  coquilles.  Allow  i  for  each  person.  Seasonle  at  any 
time. 

511.— HALIBUT,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Halibute  fre.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  halibut,  anchovy  or  shrimp  sauce,  3.  288  or 
314,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  i  tablespoonful  of  flo^  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  |  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  parsley. 

Method. — Divide  the  fish  into  small  thin  slices.  Mix  th^our,  salt 
and  pepper  together,  coat  the  pieces  of  fish  lightly  with  tl  mixture, 
and  afterwards  brush  them  over  with  egg,  and  toss  thenifc  bread- 

\\ 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   FISH  337 

crumbs.     Fry  them  in  a  deep  pan  of  fat  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned, 
or,  if  more  convenient,  in  a  smaller  amount  of  hot  fat  in  a  frying-pan. 
.narnishcd  with  crisply-fried  parsley.     Send  the  sauce  to  table 
tureen. 

Time. — To  fry,  6  or  7  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  is.  6d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  tune. 

512.— HALIBUT,  GRILLED.    (Fr.— Halibute  grill*.) 

Ingredients. — Halibut,  oiled  butter,  salt  and  pep] 
Method.     Divide  the  fish  into  slices  not  more  than  |  of  an  inch  in 
thickness,  brush  them  over  with  oiled  butter,  and  sprinkle  them  with 
salt  and  pepper.     Place  the  slices  on  a  clean  oiled  gridiron,  and  cook 
for  10  or  12  minutes,  turning  them  2  or  3  times  during 
>cess.     Serve  with  lemon,  or  any  fish  sauce  that  may  l>e  prci 
Time.— From    10  to   12   minute^.    Average  Cost,  6d.  to  per  ll>. 

or  7  o/.  per  ln-ail.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

513.     HALIBUT  PIE.     (Fr.—  Pate  de  Halibute.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  halibut,  J  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  sauces), 
No.  222,  or   223,   i    teaspoonful    of    anchovy-essei  :-paste,  or 

rough  puff  paste,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.     M.ike  the  sauce  as  directed,  and  add  the  anchovy-esv 

tish,  remove  all  the  bones,  and  di\i«: 
>  os.       Place  these  in  -ha  good  sprinkli 

Ijetween  each  layer.     Cover 
with  paste,  hake-  in   a   lairly   hot    u\en    t«-r  aNnit    I    hour,   then  serve 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to   is.  ad.  pei   lt>. 
Sufficient  for  8  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

514.— HALIBUT     PIE.       (Fr.— Pate     de    Halibute.) 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of   halibut,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  }  a  pint  of  melted 

teaspoonful  of  anchovy-essence,  salt  and  p 
:i   puff-pa 

Method,     Kt  move  all  the  skin  and  bone,  and  divide   the  fish  into 
small  Place  these  in  a  piedi  .  <  rs,  sprin, 

1    jx-pper,  ami    mi  -mall    pieces   of   butter. 

I  lie    melted    butter   ;is    directed,    add    the   anchovy-cs^ 

our  the  sauce  over  the  fi-  it   with   ; 

;  hour  in  a  in« 

Time.  alxnit    i    hour.     Average  Cost,  (kl.   to    is.  2(1 

Sufllcient  for  o  to  8  persons.     Seasonable  all  the  y 


338  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

515.— HALIBUT,  STEWED. 

Ingredients.^-3  or  4  Ib.  of  halibut,  beer,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour 
i  small  onion  stuck  with  2  cloves,  i  bay-leaf,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — This  cooking  process  is  particularly  adapted  for  the  head 
and  shoulders.  Wash  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly,  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  barely  cover  it  with  beer.  Add  the  onion,  bay-leaf,  and  a 
little  salt  and  pepper,  and  bring  gently  to  boiling  point.  Knead  the 
butter  and  flour  smoothly  together,  add  the  mixture  in  small  pieces 
to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan  when  boiling,  and  simmer  gently  until 
the  fish  separates  readily  from  the  bone.  Transfer  the  fish  carefully 
to  a  hot  dish,  add  the  lemon-juice  to  the  liquor,  season  to  taste,  strain 
and  pour  a  little  round  the  fish,  and  serve  the  rest  separately. 

Time. — To  stew,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  is.  2d.  per 
Ib.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

Note. — Halibut  may  also  be  cooked  according  to  the  numerous  methods 
given  for  dressing  cod. 

516.— HERRINGS,  BAKED,  FRESH.     (Fr.— Harengs 
Frais.) 

Ingredients. — 12  herrings,  2  bay-leaves,  12  allspice,  6  cloves,  a  good 
pinch  of  ground  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  vinegar. 

Method. — Wash  the  herrings  in  3  or  4  waters,  cut  off  the  heads,  and 
remove  the  gut.  Place  them  in  a  pie-dish,  heads  and  tails  alternately, 
sprinkle  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  and  the  flavouring  in- 
gredients. Cover  the  fish  with  vinegar,  or,  when  vinegar  is  not  much 
liked,  with  equal  quantities  of  vinegar  and  water,  and  bake  for  i£ 
hours  in  a  very  slow  oven.  Serve  cold. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  is.  per  dozen.  Suffic/ent 
for  9  persons.  Seasonable,  May  to  November. 

517.— HERRINGS,  BAKED,  FRESH. 

Ingredients. — 12  fresh  herrings,  salt  and  pepper,  vinegar,  i  or  2  Spanish 
onions. 

Method. — Wash  the  herrings  in  3  or  4  waters,  cut  off  the  heads,  split 
them  open,  and  remove  the  gut  and  backbone.  Season  well  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  roll  them  up  tightly,  beginning  with  the  neck  of  the 
fish.  Pack  the  herrings  closely  in  a  pie-dish,  cover  them  with  thin 
slices  of  onion,  half  fill  the  dish  with  equal  quantities  of  vinegar  and 
water,  and  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven  for  2  hours.  When  done,  remove 
the  onion,  but  let  the  fish  remain  in  the  dish  in  which  they  were  cooked 
until  ready  to  serve. 


RECIPES   FOR  COOKING   FISH  339 

518.— HERRINGS,  FRESH,  STUFFED  AND   BAKED. 

Ingredients. — 6  herrings,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  suet,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
£  of  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-rind,  salt  and  pepper,  milk. 

Method. — Wash  and  split  the  herrings  and  remove  the  backbone. 
Mix  the  above  ingredients  to  make  a  forcemeat  ;  season  each  herring 
with  salt  and  pepper,  spread  on  a  thin  layer  of  the  forcemeat  and  roll 
up  tightly,  beginning  with  the  neck.  Pack  closely  in  a  greased  pie- 
dish,  cover  with  greased  paper,  and  bake  from  i  to  i^  hours  in  a  mod- 
erate oven.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — 1£  to  i  £  hours.  Average  Cost,  $d.  to  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  per- 
sons. Seasonable,  May  to  November. 

THE  HERRING  (Fr.  kare*g)  is  widely  distributed  in  the  North  Atlantic.  During  the  greater  part 
of  the  year  this  nsh  inhabits  deep  water,  but  in  the  summer  and  autumn  it  frequents  in  vast  shoals 
the  wanner  waters  of  the  coasts  of  Scotland  and  the  laststu  coasts  of  PIUJJWI  for  the  purpose  of 
spawning.  The  herring  is  one  of  the  most  prottfk  of  6th.  and  notwithstanding  the  devastation  caused 

hj  thr  shells   hv   th-  d...,-f-..h.   h.ik*   •£«••*   •  i    !'•    ttM   VMtl    :.:  '   fe*      1   hrrri:,/   '   jgW    L   T},- 

•MVBflttjr  of  this  DSD  is  SQC&  tnftt  no  MQSIDM  docr£AM  oc  its  Dtu&DCr  is  Apparent*     TIM  Dtmn£  fislMfy, 


especially  that  of  the  Scotch  coasts  and  the  eastern  coast*  of  England,  constitutes  a  most  important 

;•  :  ••     ••••-..   -  :••--..     ..'.....   .;,,..., ;..  ...      -      •   •.•• . ..    . 

th'Kc  .  -..u-ht  in  thr  ...PU-!-.*.,,,::;...!  ,•:  I    -  !»  1  -.-..•    •    !:-.*.,t.     .,-:     19     tl.K.  !:.  ^  ::..  t!:-  !.;.:. -t 

>tkn  for  delicacy  of  flavour. 

519.— HERRINGS,  RED,  OR  YARMOUTH  BLOATERS 

Method. — The  best  way  to  cook  these  is  to  make  incisions  in  the  skin 
across  the  fish,  because  they  do  not  then  require  to  be  so  long  on  the 
fire,  and  will  be  far  better  than  when  cut  open.  Place  them  on  a 
buttered  gridiron,  broil  over  or  before  a  clear  fire  for  5  minutes  turn- 
ing frequently.  The  hard  roe  makes  a  nice  relish  if  pounded  in  a 
mortar,  with  a  little  anchovy,  and  spread  on  toast.  If  very  dry,  soak 
the  bloaters  in  warm  water  i  hour  before  dressing. 

Time.— 5  mi  Werage  Cost,  *t\A.  each.  Seasonable,  May  tp 

ember. 

520.— HERRINGS,  POTTED. 

Ingredients. —  i  dozen  large  herrings  r  pint  of  white  vinegar,  pepper 

>alt,  2  bav-leaves,  clarified  butt 

Method. — Remove  the  heads  and  tails  from  the  herrings,  wash,  clean, 
and  dry  them,  and  sprinkle  them  inside  and  out  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Put  the  h  an  earthenware  dish,  lay  the  rocs  beside  them,  and 

thrm  \vith  good  white  \inegar.     Bake  for  2  hours  in  a  moderate 
out  the  bones,  strain  off  the  vinegar,  pound  the  flesh  in  a 
^  through  a  finp  sipve,  press  into  small  pots,  and  pour  clari- 
fied butter  on  the  top. 

Time.— 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  o<l.  per  dozen.  Sufficient 
for  4  pots.  Seasonable  from  May  to  -r. 


340      HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

521.— KEDGEREE. 

Ingredients. — Any  cold  fish  (dried  haddock  is  generally  preferred)  ; 
to  i  Ib.  of  fish  allow  £  of  a  Ib.  of  rice,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
salt  and  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Boil  and  dry  the  rice,  divide  the  fish  into  small  flakes, 
cut  the  whites  of  the  eggs  into  slices,  and  rub  the  yolks  through  a  wire 
sieve.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  ste'wpan,  add  to  it  the  fish,  rice,  whites  of 
eggs,  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne,  and  stir  the  ingredients  over  the  fire 
until  hot.  Turn  the  mixture  on  to  a  hot  dish,  press  it  into  a  pyra- 
midical  form  with  a  fork,  decorate  with  the  yolk  of  egg,  and  serve  as 
hot  as  possible. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  2d. 
Allow  i  Ib.  fish  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

522.— LAMPREY,  BAKED.     (Fr.—  Lamproie  au  Four.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  lamprey,  suet  farce,  No.  407,  i  egg, 
breadcrumbs,  fat  for  basting,  anchovy  sauce  or  any  other  fish  sauce 
preferred,  i  lemon. 

Method. — Rub  the  fish  well  with  salt,  wash  it  in  warm  water,  and 
remove  the  cartilage  and  strings  which  run  down  the  back.  Fill  the 
body  with  the  prepared  farce,  sew  it  up  securely,  and  fasten  round  2 
or  3  thicknesses  of  buttered  or  greased  paper.  Cover  the  fish  with  hot 
water,  boil  gently  for  20  minutes,  then  drain  and  dry  well.  Put  it 
into  a  baking-dish,  in  which  a  little  butter  or  fat  has  been  previously 
melted,  and  baste  well.  Bake  gently  for  about  £  an  hour,  basting 
frequently,  then  strip  off  the  skin,  brush  the  fish  over  with  beaten  egg, 
and  coat  it  lightly  with  breadcrumbs.  Bake  the  fish  for  about  20 
minutes  longer,  or  until  nicely-browned,  then  serve  it  garnished  with 
sliced  lemon,  and  send  the  sauce  to  table  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — About  i-£  hours.  Average  Cost,  uncertain.  Sufficient  for  4  or 
5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  LAMPREY  (Fr.  lamproie)  is  an  eel-like,  scaleless  fish,  with  gills  in  the  form  of  a  series  of  pouches 
on  the  side  of  the  neck.  Its  mouth  is  circular,  resembling  a  sucker,  lined  with  a  number  of  horny 
processes  or  teeth  ;  it  has  no  pectoral  or  ventral  fins,  but  a  median  dorsal  fin  is  continued  backward 
to  form  a  tail-fin.  By  its  sucker-like  mouth  the  lamprey  attaches  itself  to  its  prey,  from  which  it 
sucks  the  blood,  respiration  being  carried  on  by  the  gills  at  the  side  of  its  neck.  The  lamprey  was 
esteemed  by  the  Romans,  and  during  the  Middle  Ages  it  was  regarded  as  a  delicacy.  Henry  I.  of 
England  is  said  to  have  died  from  the  effects  of  too  free  an  indulgence  in  his  favourite  dish. 

523.— LAMPREY,     STEWED.       (Fr.— Ragout     de 
Lamproie.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  lamprey,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  water, 
i  glass  of  port  or  sherry,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  lemon  sliced, 
i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  2  small  onions  sliced,  2  or  3  mushrooms 
or  6  button  mushrooms,  i  bay-leaf,  salt  and  pepper. 


COOftlNfi  FISH 

Method.  — \\'iish  thoroughly  in  salted  warm   \\Mt-r.   remove   ill-- 
t.ul  and  fins,  and  cut    the  fish  across    into  2 -inch    lengths.      Bring 
lock  <>r  w.i'.-r  to   boiling  point,  put   in   tin- 
".<!  neces-.  ":iing.  and  simmer  gently   lor  4'    hour, 

while  melt  the  butter  in  another  stcwp.m,  Iry  the  <>m«>n  slightly,  then 
add  the  flour,  and  iry  slowly  until  well-browned.     When  the  fish  has 
1   i   hour,  pour  the  liquor  from  it  over  :  ed  butter  and 

-tir  until  lx>iling,  then  put  in  the  mushrooms,  wine  and  lemon- 
red  sauce,  simmer  gently  for  \  an  hour 
ith  the  sauce  strained  over,  and  gar 
>n. 

Time.— T  hours.     Average  Cost,  uncertain.     Sufficient 

:  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

524.— LING,  BAKED.     (/•>.— Lingue  Rotie.) 

Ingredients.     2  lb.  of  ling,  3  ozs.  of  butu  r,  i  oz.  of  flour,  |  of  a  pint  of 
milk,  salt  and  pepper,  ground  n 

Method. — Wa-  !i,  and  cut  it  into  slices  |  « 

1'ut  thrsr  into  a  bakiT  utter,  a  pood 

easoning  of  salt  and  pcpp 

greas«  and  cook  gently  for  i  hour,  hasting  occasionally. 

rather  more   than   ha:!  I,   mt-ll    t: 

until  it   !  h  ami 

Tim--.  i   luxir.      Average  Cost.  .     Sullici- 

.     Seasonable 

i^  captured  in  v.i»t  quati titk» off  the  Orkney, Shetland  am!  '. 

• 

of  fish.    Lane  ling  are  come ;  bat  they  are  BBiiij  salted,  dried,  and  exported  to  the  toutbrrn  puts 
of  Europe,  where  the  bye  tab  are  not  met  with.     In  form  the  Un«  boot  vnttke  the  cod,  but 
•aider,  and  grow*  to  the  length  of  6  or  7  fret    Whan  boiled  it  it  insipid,  but  when  fried  or 


525.— LING,  FRIED.     (/>— Lingue  Frite.) 

Ingredients.— 2  lb.  of  ling,   i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  sal 

our. 

Method.  ,d  dry  th»  !  cut  it  into  ri  nkle  them 

h  flour.  1 

th  flour  t 
addition  of  egg  and  brcadcruin! 

Time.     About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5,1.  to  8d.  per  lb.     Sufficient 
or  5  persons. 


342  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

526.— LOBSTER  IN  ASPIC.     (Fr.— Homard  en  Aspic.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  or  2  small  lobsters,  I  pint  of  aspic  jelly,  3  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  a  large  lettuce,  a  few  tarragon  leaves,  capers,  olives  stoned, 
and  truffles  ;  oil  and  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt,  Mayonnaise  sauce 
(see  Sauces). 

Method. — Put  into  a  quart  border  mould  enough  melted  aspic  jelly 
to  thinly  cover  it,  and  when  it  begins  to  set,  arrange  in  it  the  flesh 
of  the  body  and  claws  of  the  lobster  (which  should  be  cut  into  neat 
pieces)  with  a  few  tarragon  leaves  and  capers,  filling  up  the  mould  with 
the  jelly.  Well  wash,  dry,  and  shred  the  lettuce,  and  mix  with  it  the 
remainder  of  the  lobster,  the  oil  and  vinegar,  with  pepper  and  salt. 
When  the  mould  is  firmly  set,  turn  it  out  and  pile  the  salad  in  the  centre, 
and  around  it  as  a  border,  masking  it  smoothly  with  a  thick  Mayon- 
naise sauce.  Lastly,  garnish  the  whole  with  the  eggs  cut  up,  the  coral 
and  the  little  claws  of  the  lobster,  the  capers  and  truffles,  etc. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.,  exclusive  of  sauce* 
Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  LOBSTER  (Fr.  homard)  is  found  on  most  of  the  rocky  coasts  of  Great  Britain,  many  European 
shores,  and  on  the  coasts  of  North  America.  It  is  especially  partial  to  clear  water,  and  inhabits  the 
crevices  of  the  rocks  at  the  bottom  of  the  shore.  The  lobster  belongs  to  the  order  Decapoda,  to  the 
section  Macroura,  or  "  long  tailed,"  and  is  one  of  the  "  stalk-eyed  "  crustaceans.  The  body  of  the 
lobster  is  composed  of  twenty  segments  or  joints,  of  which  six  belong  to  the  head,  eight  to  the  thorax<>r 
chest,  and  six  to  the  abdomen.  Its  tail  is  composed  of  several  flat  shell-like  plates  which,  when  spread 
out  in  the  form  of  a  fan,  is  used  as  an  organ  for  swimming.  The  first  pair  of  ambulatory  limbs  form 
the  characteristic  powerful  claws,  the  pincers  of  which  are  famished  wi.th  knobs,  and  the  lower  part 
is  serrated.  By  means  of  the  former  it  is  enabled  to  hold  firmly  the  stalks  of  sub-marine  plants, 
and  with  the  latter  it  minces  its  food  with  great  dexterity.  The  lobster  is  very  prolific,  and  when  in 
spawn  the  female  is  said  to  be  "  in  berry,  the  developing  eggs  being  attached  to  the  tafl.  Unlike 
the  crab,  the  young  lobster  does  not  undergo  any  metamorphosis  in  passing  from  -the  egg  to  the  adult 
state.  like  others  of  its  tribe,  the  lobster  casts  its  shell  each  year.  It  is  usually  caught  by  pots 
specially  constructed,  made  of  osiers,  shaped  somewhat  like  a  wire  mouse-trap,  and  baited  with 
garbage.  When  the  lobster  enters  the  trap  it  cannot  get  out  again.  The  traps  are  fastened  to  a  cord 
and  sunk  in  the  sea,  the  place  being  marked  by  a  buoy.  In  colour  the  lobster  is  of  a  deep  bluish- 
black,  mottled  with  markings  of  a  lighter  hue  ;  on  being  boiled  it  changes  to  its  familiar  scarlet  colour. 
Large  quantities  of  lobsters  are  caught  on  the  coasts  of  North  America,  and  are  exported  in  large 
quantities  to  this  country.  By  the  Fishery  Act  of  1877,  no  lobsters  under  8  inches  in  length  may  be 
captured,  and  by  some  local  bye-laws  of  the  Sea  Fisheries'  Committee  a  close  season  is  fixed. 

527.— LOBSTER,  BAKED.    (Fr.— Homard  au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — i  lobster,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of 
white  sauce,  i  egg,  the  juice  of  %  a  lemon,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  -J-  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallots,  brown 
breadcrumbs,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  lobster  in  two  lengthwise,  remove  the  meat  from 
the  shells,  and  mince  it  coarsely.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
fry  the  shallots  for  2  or  3  minutes  without  browning,  then  add  the 
lobster,  wku£e  sauce,  parsley,  lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of  ^niUmeg,  as  well 
as  salt  ancf  pepper  to  taste;  then  stir  over  the  fireTjun'til  thoroughly 
hot.  Beat  the  egg  slightly,  add  it  to  the  mixture,  arid  cook  until  it 
begins  to  bind.,  Have  ready  the  two  halves  of  the  large,  shell,  put  in  the 
mixture,  cover  lightly  with  brown  breadcrumbs,  put.  3  or  4  ver^  small 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   FISH  343 

pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake  for  10  or  15  minutes  in  a  moder- 
ate oven.    Garnish  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — V  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

528.— LOBSTERS,  TO  BOIL.      (Fr.— Homards.) 

Ingredients. — ^  of  a  Ib.  of  salt  to  each  gallon  of  water. 

Method. — Buy  the  lobsters  alive,  and  choose  those  that  are  heavy 
and  full  of  motion,  which  is  an  indication  of  their*  freshness.  When 
the  shell  is  encrusted,  it  is  a  sign  they  are  old  :  medium-sized  lobsters 
are  the  best.  Have  ready  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water,  sal  ted  in  the  pro- 
portion mentioned  above,  put  in  the  lobsters  and  keep  them  boiling 
quickly  from  20  to  45  minutes,  according  to  their  size,  and  do  not  forget 
to  skim  well.  If  boiled  too  long,  the  meat  becomes  thready,  and  if 
not  done  enough,  the  spawn  is  not  red.  Rub  the  shells  over  with  a 
little  butter  or  sweet  oil,  which  must  be  wiped  off  again. 

Time.— Small  lobster,  20  minutes  to  |  an  hour  ;  large  ditto,  i  to  J 
of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  medium  size,  is.  to  33.  6d.  Seasonable  all  the 
year,  but  best  from  June  to  September. 

To  CMOOSI  LomrrtM.— Thi»  shdl-ftsh.  U  it  has  been  cooked  alive,  as  it  ou«ht  to  have  heeo,  will 
have  a  stiffness  in  the  tail,  which.  U  gent!?  rai.xl.  wOl  return  with  a  spoof.  Care,  however,  mutt 
. .  provint  it.  for  if  the  tail  U  putted  str*i«ht  out,  it  will  not  return.  In  order  to  be 
food,  lobsters  shooli  be  weithtv  for  th-ir  bulk:  if  l>:ht.  thrr  will  be  watery  those  of  the 
ibedium  sUe  are  always  the  best.  The*  should  be  broad  acrow  the  taiL  The  coral  U  red.  The 
•pawn  it  lo-uetimes  sold  uncooked  at  id.  per  ounce,  and  U  then  dark  green,  bat  U  becomes  red  on 
oookint.  It  «hould  be  nibbed  throufh  a  sieve  with  a  little  butter.  It  is  used  to  colour  sauces 
for  cutlets,  etc.  SmalUised  lobsters  are  cheap  set,  and  answer  very  well  for  sauoa. 

529. -LOBSTER,  COQUILLES  OF.   vFr.-Coquilles  de 
Homard.) 

Ingredients. — I  lobster,  mushrooms,  butter,   white  sauce  (No.  222), 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  short  crust  paste.   par- 
Method.— Line  some  small  shell-shaped  moulds  with  light  paste  crust. 
After  pricking  the  paste  with  a  fork  nil  the  lined  moulds  with  uncooked 
rice  or  dried  peas,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  a  golden-brown. 
When  done,  take  out  the  rice  or  peas,  and  place  the  pastry  shells  on  a 
sieve.     Cut  the  meat  of  the  lobster  (preserved  lobster  of  a  reliable 
will  do)  into  small  dice,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  some  chopped 
mushrooms  and  butter,  allowing  8  mushrooms  and  |  an  oz.   of  butter 
ry  $  Ib.  of  lobster.     Si;  he  fire  until  thoroughly  hot,  then 

•i  with  white  sauce.    Season  with  pepper,  salt,  grated 

nutmeg,  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne.    Keep  the  mixture  hot  in  a  bain-marie 
so  that  it  is  ready  for  use  when  required.     Warm  the  baked  shells  in 
ven,  fill   them   with  the  mixture,  strew  over  a  little  panurcUe 
(a  preparation  of  grated  rusks,  used  instead  of  lobster  coral  for  decora- 
tried  breadcrumbs  ;  the  former,  however,  makes  th< 
more  •  •  h  upon  small  plates,  and  garnish  with  a  sprig  or 

two  ot  A   little  anchovy-essence  added  to  the  mixture  will 

iluvour  o 


344  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  8  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

530.— LOBSTER   CREAM    (Hot).         (Fr.—  Creme   de 
Homard,  Chaude.) 

Ingredients. — i  lobster,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of 
milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  pour 
in  the  milk,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  panada  (or  culinary  paste) 
leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan  clear,  and  forms  a  compact  mass  round 
the  bowl  of  the  spoon,  then  put  aside  to  cool.  Cut  one  claw  of  the* 
lobster  into  small  dice,  and  set  aside  until  wanted  ;  pound  the  rest  of  the 
lobster  in  a  mortar  with  the  panada,  yolks  of  eggs,  and  seasoning. 
Rub  the  mixture  through  a  wire  sieve  into  a  basin,  add  the  dice  of 
lobster,  and  the  cream  (stiffly -whipped),  and  mix  all  well,  but  lightly, 
together.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  mould,  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  steam  very  gently  for  i  hour.  The  saucepan  must  have  a 
close-fitting  lid  to  keep  in  the  steam.  The  water  should  reach  about 
half-way  up  the  mould.  Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — About  if  hours,  altogether.  -Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

531.— LOBSTER  CREAM  (Cold).        (Fr.— Mousse  de 
Homard,  a  la  Supreme.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  lobster,  2  whitings,  i  gill  of  cream,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  gill  of  fish  stock  made  from  bones  of  the  whitings, 
4  eggs,  salt,  paprika  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Skin  the  whitings,  remove  the  bones,  and  use  the  latter 
for  the  fish  stock  required.  Split  the  lobster,  take  the  meat  from  the 
shell,  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  pound  it  with  the  whitings  together 
in  a  mortar,  then  pass  through  a  wire  sieve.  Make  a  panada  with  i  oz. 
of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  and  the  gill  of  fish  stock,  and  work  it  thor- 
oughly. Return  the  whiting  puree  to  the  mortar  with  the  panada, 
mix  well,  and  work  in  the  yolks  of  4  and  the- whites  of  2  eggs.  When 
well  pounded  pass  all  through  a  hair  sieve,  season  with  salt,  paprika 
pepper,  and  a  little  cayenne.  Whisk  the  2  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  also  whip  the  cream,  and  add  to  the  mixture.  Have  ready  a 
plain  charlotte  or  souffle  mould,  well  buttered,  three  parts  fill  it  with  the 
above  preparation,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  place  it  in  a  stewpan 
containing  some  boiling  water,  and  steam  very  gently  for  about  |  of 
an  hour.  Serve  very  hot  with  Supreme  sauce  poured  over  the  cream. 
A  little  more  cream  may  be  added  to  the  mixture  than  the  above  given 
quantity  if  a  richer  dish  is  desired. 

Time. — To  steam  about  £  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  to  35.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  7  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


FISH. 


ft 


I  Mullet.  -  il. 


FISH. 


i.  Soused  Mackerel. 
26 


2.  Souchet  of  flounders.        3.  Scalloped  Cod's  Roe. 


IPES    POH    <  noKINV,    FISH 
532.— LOBSTER  CURRY.      (/•>.— Homard  au  Kari.) 

Ingredients,      i  lobster  (or  tinned  lobster  of  a  reliable  j  of  a 

pint  <>t  ii*h  stock  and  milk  jnixed,  or  all  mill  !.   i   t.ible- 

spoonful    of    grated  cocoanut,    i    dessertspoonful    of    curry-  p< 
I  teaspoon ful  of  flour,  i  tcaspoonful  <  ozs.  of  but  tor, 

i    large    onion,    i    apple   (green    gooseberries    or    rhubarb    may    be 

i tuted  ,  -n-juice. 

Method.     M'lt  the  butter  in  a  stcwpan,  put  in  the  onion  (coarsely 
chopped),  the  flour  and  curry-powder,  and   fry   these  gently   ' 
minutes.     Add  the  stock,   milk,  curry-paste,  cocoanut,  sliced 
and  s.'  •:!  it  l*>i:  ;mmer 

for  i  hour,  stirring  occasional  n  the 

it  into  inch-square  pieces.     When  the  ready, 

rub  it  through  a  fine  sir  urn  it  to  the  sau< 

seasoning  to  taste,  and  rc-lv  jn.int, 

put  in  the  pieces  of  lobs t  .tnd  draw  tin  m  the 

side  of  the  sto\  <>r  j«>  mi  \  the  lol 

natcd  with  the  t!  sauce,  a-  •:  juue 

»  boiled  t; 

Ti rat.— About  Average  Cost,  ;*.  to  2*.  6<L     Sufficient  for  4 

or  5  persons.     Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

-ill  cases  the  bsh  mu 


533. -LOBSTER    CUTLETS.  (Fr— Cotclcttes    dc 

Homard.) 

Ingredients,     i  hen  l<>)>ster.  1}  ozs.  of  batter,  I  oz.  of  flour, |  of  a  pint 
of  milk  or  water,  i  tablespoon ful  of  cream,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  v 

vmg  fat. 

Method.  —  Remove  the  flesh  from  tl  small 

1  the  spawn  (if  any)  with  J  an  oz.  of  butter,  and  pass 

.1  small 
.idd  the  milk,  and  Ixul  well.       i 

to  mould,  make  it   up 
«l   breadcrumb,  a1  ntil 

•rowned   in   hot    fat.     Dish   in   a    « 

•  utlct  to  represent  a  b<  rarmsh  with  ' 

I 

Timr  Aftriff  Cost,    :  'o    2s.  jd. 

Sunicient    '    i    9  Of  1O  s  ts.       SMftOBable   from  April  to  Oct< 


346  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

534.— LOBSTER    CROQUETTES.       (Fr.— Croquettes 
de   Homard.) 

For  formula  see  Chicken  Croquettes,  or  use  recipe  given  in  tinned 
food  section. 

535._LOBSTER   DEVILLED.         (Fr.— Homard  a  la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — i  good  lobster,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  white  breadcrumbs, 
a  few  browned  breadcrumbs,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  white 
sauce  or  cream,  cayenne. 

Method. — Cut  the  lobster  in  two  lengthwise,  remove  the  meat  care- 
fully, as  the  large  shell  must  be  kept  whole,  and  chop  the  meat  finely. 
Melt  the  butter,  pour  it  on  to  the  lobster,  add  the  breadcrumbs,  and 
white  sauce,  season  rather  highly  with  cayenne,  and  mix  well.  Press 
the  mixture  lightly  into  the  lobster  shell,  cover  with  browned  bread- 
crumbs, put  3  or  4  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake  for  about 
20  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  23.  to  35.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

536.— LOBSTERS,  TO  DRESS. 

Wash  the  lobster  well  before  boiling,  tie  the  claws  securely,  and  throw 
the  lobster,  head  first,  into  a  saucepan  of  salted  boiling  water  :  this 
method  instantly  destroys  life.  Then  boil  the  lobster  gently  from  20 
to  40  minutes,  according  to  its  size,  but  avoid  overcooking,  which 
causes  the  flesh  to  become  hard.  When  cool  enough  to  handle,  rub 
over  with  a  little  salad-oil  to  brighten  the  colour.  When  quite  cold, 
break  off  the  claws  and  tail,  and  divide  the  latter  lengthwise  by  the  line 
running  from  head  to  tail.  Place  the  body  upright  in  the  centre  of  a 
dish,  with  one-half  of  the  tail  on  either  side,  and  at  the  ends  arrange 
the  claws,  which  should  previously  be  cracked  with  a  hammer  without 
injuring  the  flesh.  The  dish  should  be  garnished  tastefully  with 
parsley. 

Time. — From  20  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  35.  6d.  each, 
according  to  size. 

537.— LOBSTER,       BAKED,       FRENCH       STYLE. 
(Fr. — Homard     au     Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — i  lobster,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  white  stock,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls of  cream,  pounded  mace  and  cayenne  to  taste,  bread-crumbs,  puff 
paste. 

Method. — Pick  the  meat  from  the  shell,  and  cut  it  up  into  small 
square  pieces,  put  the  stock,  cream  and  seasoning  into  a  stewpan, 
add  the  lobster,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  6  minutes.  Serve  it  in 


KECIPES   FOR   COOKING   FISH  347 

the  shell,  which  must  be  nicely  cleaned,  and  have  a  border  of  puff-paste. 
Cover  it  with  breadcrumbs,  place  small  pieces  of  butter  over,  and 
brown  before  the  fire,  or  with  a  salamander.  If  tinned  lobster  is  used, 
a  shallow  pie-dish  replaces  the  shell. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  js.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

538.-  LOBSTER  MAYONNAISE.       (Fr.— Mayonnaise 
de  Homard.) 

Ingredients. — I   large  lobster,  4  lillcted  Gorgona  anchovies,   i   hard- 
egg,  6  stoned  olives,  4  gherkins,  a  few  slices  of  pickled  beetroot, 
a  t  iblespoonful  of  capers,  i  1 irgeo  r  2  small  let  u       ,         onnaise  s. . 

Method. — Cut  the  lobster  in  two  lengthwise,  break  the  claws  carefully, 
remove  the  meat  intact,  if  possible,  and  cut    the    remainder  of  the 
lobster  into  small  pieces.  Wash  and  dry  the  lettuce,  tear  it  into  small 
pieces,   put  it  into  a  bowl   with  the  small  pieces  of  lobster,  and  add 
ally  sufficient  Mayonnaise  to  moisten  the  whole.     Arrange  this 
in  the  centre  of  a  round  dish  in  the  form  of  a  dome,  mask  it  \\ith 
very  stiff   Mayonnaise  sauce,  and  surround  it  with  pieces  of 
boiled  egg.     Garnish  tastefully  with  strips  of  anchovy,  strips  or 
of  gherkin,  fancifully-cut  pieces  of  beetroot,  olives,  and  capers.     Keep 
until  required,  and  serve  as  cool  as  pos> 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  4$.  Sufficient  for 
6  to  8  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

539.— LOBSTER   PATTIES.         (Fr.— Petits  Patts  dc 
Homard.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  puff-paste,  i  small  lobster,  i$  ozs.  of  butter. 
i  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  3  eggs,  $  of  a  pint  of  fish  stock  or  milk 
(about),  $  a  gill  of  cream,  |  a  teaspoonful  of  Icmon-jui  drops 

of  anchovy -essence,  cayenne,  salt,  parsley. 

Method.— When  giving  the  paste  its  last  turn,  roll  it  out  to  a  thick- 
ness of  I  an  inch,  and  with  a  hot  wet  cutter  of  2}  inches  di. 

out  8  or  9  rounds  of  paste.     Brush  them  over  with  a  beaten  egg, 

to  about  |  the  depth  of  the  paste  with  a  : 

ter  cutter,  previously  dipped  in  hot  water.  Bake  them  in  a  hot 
oven  from  20  to  25  minutes,  then  remove  and  take  care  of  the  tops, 
scoop  out  the  soft  inside,  and  keep  the  patty-cases  warm.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  a  few  minutes,  then  pour 
in  the  fish  stock  or  milk,  and  stir  until  the  sauce  boils.  Simmer  ior 
10  minutes,  add  the  cream,  yolks  of  eggs,  lemon-juice,  anchovy-essence, 
and  seasoning  to  taste,  simmer  gently  until  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  thicken, 
then  pass  through  a  cloth  or  hne  sieve.  Return  to  the  stewpan,  put 
in  the  lobster  (cut  into  dice)  ;  when  thoroughly  hot  put  into  the 
put  on  the  coven,  garnish  with  parsley,  and 


348  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time. — |  hour  after  the  paste  is  made.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.,  ex- 
clusive of  the  paste.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9  patties.  Seasonable  from 
April  to  October. 

540.— LOBSTER,  POTTED.  (Fr.—  Terrine  de  Homard.) 

Ingredients. — 2  lobsters,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  ground  mace,  grated  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  meat  carefully  from  the  shell,  keeping  the  pieces 
as  large  as  possible.  Put  them  into  a  baking-dish  with  |-  of  the  butter, 
add  a  sprinkling  of  mace  and  nutmeg,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper, 
cover  with  a  dish  or  2  or  3  folds  of  well-greased  paper,  and  bake  in  a 
gentle  oven  for  about  i  hour.  Lift  the  pieces  of  lobster  carefully  into 
small  pots,  and  pack  them  as  close  together  as  possible,  otherwise  a 
large  amount  of  butter  will  be  required.  Strain  the  butter  over  them, 
and  when  cold  cover  with  clarified  butter. 

Time. — 1£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  for  this  quantity,  35.  6d.  to 
45.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  small  pots. 

541.— LOBSTER,    RAGOUT    OF.       (Fr.— Ragout    de 
Homard.) 

Ingredients.-— i  large  lobster,  i  gill  of  white  sauce,  No.  222,  \  a  gill 
of  fish  stock  or  water,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  mace,  pepper  and 
salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  flesh  from  the  shell,  keeping  it  as  whole  as 
possible,  and  divide  into  pieces  i  inch  square.  Pound  the  spawn  in  a 
mortar  with  the  butter,  add  a  pinch  of  mace  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  and  pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  sauce  and 
stock  into  a  stewpan,  boil  up,  season  to  taste,  and  add  the  yolks  of 
eggs,  spawn,  butter  and  lobster.  Cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes  to 
remove  the  raw  taste  of  the  eggs,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  35.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable,  from  April  to  October. 

542.— LOBSTER    RISSOLES.         (Fr.  -  -  Rissoles     de 
Homard.) 

Ingredients. — i   small  lobster,  puff-paste  trimmings,   i   yolk  of    egg 

1  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  or  fish  sauce,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley,  cayenne,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Remove  the  flesh  of  the  lobster  from  the  shell,  and  chop 
it  finely.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  the  yolk  of  egg,  white  sauce, 
parsley,  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly 
hot.  Season  to  taste,  turn  it  on  to  a  plate,  and  put  aside  until  cold. 
Roll  the  paste  out  as  thinly  as  possible,  stamp  out  into  rounds  about 

2  inches  in  diameter,  and  place  a  little  of  the  lobster  preparation  in  the 


RECIPES   FOR  COOKINC.    FISH  349 

isten  the  edge  of  the  paste  with  cold  water,  fold  over 
in  a  halt -moon  shape,  and  coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
or.  if  preferred,  egg  and  crushed  vermicelli.     Have  ready  a  deep  pan 
of  hot  fat,  fry  the  rissoles  to  a  golden-brown  colour,  then  drai: 
. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average    Cost,  is.  3d  to  is.  lod.     Suflku 
about  10  rissoles.     Seasonable  at  any  t 

543.— LOBSTER  SALAD.     (Fr.—  Salade  de  Homard.) 

Ingredients. —  i   hen  lobster,  lettuces,  cn«!  ill  salad 

o  .  a  little  chopped  beetroot,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  a 
of  cucuiulx-r.     For  dres^  jx>onfuls  of  oil,  j  tahlespoonfuls 

isponnful  of  r  .s  Of  2  eggS,  Ca 

« aspoonful  of  anchovy  sauce.    These  in- 

nts  should  U:  mixed  p.  :m>oth,  an«l  fi»nn  ;i  crramy  sauce. 

Method.  -  Wash  the  salad,  and  thoroughly  ilry  it  1-v  slukrni;  it  in  a 
cloth.  Cut  up  thr  lettuces  and  endive,  pour  the  dressing  on  them, 
ami  l,  n  the  small  salad.  Blend  all  well  to*:* 

at  of  the  lobster.     1  meat  from   the  claws,  cut 

B  pieces,  put  half  in  the  salad,  and  reserve  the  other 

.,'.      Separate    the    yolks   from   the   whites   of     2 

hard-boiled  and  rub  the  yolks  through 

he  salad  lightly  on  a  glass  -1  garnish 

with  cucumber,  then  with  the  pieces 

and    uhiH-s   «,f    thr   Qgp,   v.ral   and   ! 

>.irate  groups,  so  that   the  colours  conn 

fd. 

Time.      \  Btet.     Average  Cost,  js.  (+\.     Sufnctont 

Seasonable  from  April  to  <  > 

544. -MACKEREL,  BAKED.       />. -Maquercau  Farci 
i  la  Maitre  d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients,  -j  mackerel  of  medium  size,  veal  forcemeat  (*e*  Force- 

•/.  of  but  ..t-t  dripping,  pepper  and  salt,  t! 

Method.     ("Iran   t!  :.K-S.  put    in   thr   forcemeat, 

it  thorn  \vith  thr  PK-i  into  a  1 
;«'1<1  ti  ,  ,1-M-  with  Hour.  sprinkK-  udl  with  s.i. 

•4'»mini:  nig  occasionally. 

parsley  sauce,  or  melted  I 

Tlmo  Average   Cost, 

Suillctent  for  4  or  5  persons.     Btmniita  from  April  t<»  |ul\. 


350  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

545.— MACKEREL,  BOILED, WITH  PARSLEY  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Maquereau  Bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — 2  mackerel,  water,  salt,  parsley  sauce  (No.  311). 

Method. — Remove  the  roes,  wash  the  fish,  put  them  into  the  fish- 
kettle,  with  just  sufficient  hot  water  to  cover  them,  and  add  salt  to 
taste.  Bring  the  water  gently  to  near  boiling  point,  then  draw  the 
kettle  aside,  and  cook  very  gently  for  about  10  minutes.  If  cooked 
too  quickly,  or  too  long,  the  skin  is  liable  to  crack,  and  spoil  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  fish.  It  is  a  sure  indication  that  the  fish  is  sufficiently 
cooked  when  the  skin  becomes  loose  from  the  flesh.  Drain  well,  place 
the  mackerel  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  them  a  little  parsley  sauce, 
and  serve  the  remainder  separately  in  a  tureen.  Fennel  and  anchovy 
sauces  may  also  be  served  with  boiled  mackerel. 

Time. — From  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  9d.  each.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  July. 

THE  MACKEREL  (Fr.  maquereau)  is  not  only  one  of  the  most  elegantly  shaped,  but  one  of  the  most 
beautifully  coloured  of  the  fish  that  frequent  our  coasts.  The  characteristic  metallic  lustre  of  its 
body  is  familiar  to  all.  The  mackerel  is  a  migratory  fish,  and  visits  in  enormous  shoals  the  coasts  of 
England  in  May  and  June,  and  those  of  Scotland  in  July  and  August.  It  is  captured  by  means  of 
drift-nets,  in  which  it  is  caught  by  entangling  its  head  in  the  meshes.  The  mackerel  spawns  in  May 
and  June.  The  Romans  were  acquainted  with  this  fish,  and  made  from  its  fat  the  celebrated  "  sarum," 
or  "  relish."  The  mackerel  rarely  exceeds  the  weight  of  2  Ib.  ;  its  ordinary  length  is  between  14  and 
20  inches.  When  taken  out  of  the  water  it  dies  immediately,  and  for  a  short  time  emits  a  phos- 
phorescent light. 

546.— MACKEREL,     BROILED.        (Fr.  —  Maquereau 
Grille.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  mackerel,  a  little  salad-oil,  or  butter,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Do  not  wash  the  fish,  but  wipe  it  clean  and  dry.  Split 
it  down  the  back,  sprinkle  it  well  with  seasoning,  and  brush  lightly 
over  with  salad-oil  or  warm  butter.  The  fish  has  a  more  delicate 
flavour  if  wrapped  in  a  well-buttered  paper,  but  it  may  be  broiled 
without  it.  The  fire  must  be  clear,  and  the  fish  should  be  turned 
frequently.  Allow  15  to  20  minutes  for  a  mackerel  of  medium-size, 
and  a  few  minutes  longer  when  broiled  in  paper.  Serve  with  Maitre- 
d'Hotel  butter  or  Maitre  d'Hotel  sauce  (No.  200). 

Time. — 15  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  6d.  to  lod.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  July. 

547.— MACKEREL,    FILLETS   OF.        (Fr.— Filets   de 
Maquereau  a  la  Bechamel.) 

Ingredients. — 2  medium-sized  mackerel,  £  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel 
sauce,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  dry,  and  fillet  the  fish.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saute- 
pan,  and  fry  the  fillets  without  browning  them.  Remove  the  fish  and 
keep  it  hot,  put  in  the  Bechamel  sauce,  and  bring  nearly  to  boiling 
point  ;  then  return  the  fish  to  the  stewpan,  cover  closely,  and  simmer 


REcir;          :  COOKING  FISH 

gently  for   10  minutes.     Remove  the  fish  carefully  to  a  hot  dish,  add 
the  lemon-juice  to  the  sauce,  season  ii  necessary,  and  strain  over  the 

Time. — About  |  an  hour.     Average  Cost,   6d.    to  is.     Sufficient    for 
4  persons.     Seasonable  from  April  to  July. 

548.— MACKEREL,     PICKLED.          (Fr.— Maquereau 
Marin6.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  mackerel,  |  a  pint  of  vinegar,  water,  12  pepper- 
corns, 2  bay-leaves,  allspice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Clean  and  wash  the  fish  and  take  out  the  roes.     Place  the 

mackerel  in  an  earthenware  baking-dish  with  the  roes  (mackerel  are 

1  that  part  of  the  season  when  the  roes  are  not  full  grown),  sprinkle 

them  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  bay-leaves,  allspice, peppercorns, 

; ,  and  about  ^  of  a  pint  of  water,  cover  with  a  greased  paper, 

ike  in  a  cool  oven  for  nearly  i  hour.     Let  them  remain  in  the 

r  until  required. 

Time. — About    i    hour.     Average   Cost,   6d.    to    is.    each.     Sufficient 
:  or  5  persons.    Seasonable  from  April  to  Julv. 

549.— MACKEREL,  SMOKED.  (Fr.— Maquereau  fume.) 

Ingredients. — Mackerel,  common  salt,  to  each  8  ozs.  of  which  add  I  oz. 

.Itpetre. 

Method. — Clean    and    open    the    fish,    empty    the    inside    and    dry 

ighly.     Cover  thicklv  with  salt  and  saltpetre,  let  them  remain 

-•4  to  36  hours,  according  to  size,  then  .:ig  the 

mackerel  in  a  row  by  means  of  a  stick  pushed  through  the  sockets 

of  the  eye,  and  dry  them  in  the  sun  or  expose  them  to  the  heat  of  the 

fire  for  .     If  the  ordinary  mea  king  in  the  chimney 

ulablc  they  should  be  employed;  if  not,  half  fill  an  old  cask,  open 

at  both  ends,  with  sawdust,  put  a  red-hot  iron  in  the  middle  of  r 

(1  the  fish  across  the  cask,  which  must  bo  covered  to  keep  in  the 
In  about  30  hours  the  fish  will  be  ready. 

550.— MULLET,  GREY.     (Fr.— Surmulet.) 

Ingredients. — 4  grey  mullet. 

Method.  -Clran  the  fish,  and,  if  very  large,  place  them  in  warm 
ill,  they  may  be  r,  and  cooked 

minutes.  Serve  with  anchovy  or  melted  butter 

Time.— From     15     to    20    minutes.       Average   Cost,    is,   oxl.    t< 

i    small    mullet  to  each  person.     Seasonable    all   the  year,  but 
rom  July  to  October. 

(Pr.mnM*Obq«itoadUh«Mt  •*  Iron  Iht  rad  araDtt,  wMch  b*mp  to  OM 
faiwlyol  the  */„«.*,.    The  gwy,  or  tnM  nmlWt,  of  UM  Umfly  *«*}*«,  b  fouod  i 

co4,tv  4r.a  .UUui*  to  the  IrriRth  rf  *  M  M 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

551.— MULLET  RED,  GRILLED,  MAITRE  D'HOTEL 
STYLE.  (Fr—  Rougets  grilles  a  la  Maitre 
d'  Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  fish,  salad-oil,  maitre  d'hotel  or  parsley  butter, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Procure  3  or  4  fresh  red  mullet,  wipe  them  with  a  damp 
cloth,  and  make  3  or  4  incisions  across  each  fish  with  a  sharp  knife. 
Put  the  fish  on  a  dish,  pour  over  them  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  salad- 
oil,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let  them  stand  thus  for  about 
i  hour.  Meanwhile,  prepare  some  Maitre  d1  Hotel  butter,  made  with 
i  oz.  of  butter,  chopped  parsley,  and  lemon  juice.  See  that 
the  gridiron  is  perfectly  clean,  and  the  fire  suitable  for  grilling. 
Grease  the  gridiron,  place  the  red  mullet  on  it,  and  cook  them  slowly 
over,  or  in  front  of,  a  bright  fire,  turning  frequently.  When  done  put 
some  Maitre  d'Hotel  butter  on  a  dish,  place  the  red  mullets  upon 
this,  spread  a  little  more  Maitre  d'Hotel  butter  on  top  of  each  fish, 
garnish  with  fresh  parsley,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  grill,  from  i  o  to  12  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time,  but  best  in  the 
in  summer. 

552.— MULLET  RED,  GRILLED.  (Fr.— Rougets 
Grilles.) 

Ingredients. — 3  moderate-sized  fish,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoon- 
ful finely-chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

Method. — After  cleaning  the  fish,  replace  the  livers  with  some  finely- 
chopped  parsley  and  seasoning,  mixed  with  butter.  Wrap  each  fish 
in  an  oiled  paper,  sprinkling  over  them  some  of  the  seasoning,  and  grill 
them  over  a  red  fire,  holding  a  salamander  above  so  as  to  avoid  turning 
them.  When  done,  squeeze  the  juice  of  the  lemon  over  them,  and 
serve. 

Time. — To  grill,  from  10  to  12  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time,  but  most  plentiful 
in  summer. 

553.— MULLET  RED,  IN  CASES.  (Fr.— Rougets  en 
Papillottes.) 

Ingredients. — 4  small  red  mullet,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of  flour, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  sauce,  a  glass  of  sherry,  salt,  cayenne, 
oiled  paper. 

Method. — Clean  the  fish,  remove  the  fins  and  gills,  but  leave  the  in- 
side, as  the  liver  is  considered  the  choicest  part  of  the  fish.  Fold  each 
mullet  in  oiled  or  buttered  paper,  and  bake  gently  from  20  to  25  minutes. 
Knead  the  butter  and  flour  smoothly,  add  it,  together  with  the  anchovy 
essence  and  the  sherry,  to  the  liquor  which  has  oozed  from  the  fish, 


FISH. 


•Hops  an  Gratio.      3.— Red  Mallet.      ^.-Torboi.      4.- Cod  Steak.       y-Frted  Sole. 
Mayonnaise  of  Salmon     7.-Salmon  au  Nature! .    8.- Brown  Troat.    9.— Smelu. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKINV,    nsil  353 

n  to  taste,  and  simmer  for  10  minutes.     Serve  the  fish  without  the 
• ,  and  the  sauce  in  a  sauce  boat. 

Time. — About  35  minutes,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  js.  (A.  to  35. 
Sufficient  for  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time,  but  more  plentiful  in 
summer. 

554.— MULLET,      RED,     WITH    TARTAR     SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Rougets  Sauce  Tartare.) 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  fish  as  in  tl.  .ng  recipe,  but 

without  the  paper  cases,  or  grill  them,  and  serve  with   Tartar 
(see  Sauces,  No.  2 

555.— MUSSELS.     (Fr.— Moules.) 

Ingredients,     i   quart  of  mussels,  i  oz.  of  butter,  |  an  oz.  of 

i  tablcspoonful  of  \  -poonful 

pepper. 
Method. — Brush   the  shells   thoroughly,   and   wash    the   musv 

Put  them  into  an  iron  saucepan  wit: 

into  a  steamer).      Sprinkle  with  a  little  salt,  spread  a  cl«-.m  wot  cloth 

and  let   them   cook    in  tho  steam    until  the   shells 

open  a    little.       Take  them  out  of    the  shells,  and  strain  tho  liquor 

into  a  basin.     Carefully  remove  the  little  weed  which  is  found  under 

the  Mack  tongi  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  for  3  or  4 

;*mr  in  tho  mussel  \n\\.  ^ils.     Cool 

->r  and  ,  oason 

;  by  tho  side  <»f    if.  :1  th«   «•   i;s    il  !'nt    in 

-els  to  re  111'-  xai: 

Time. — About   \  an  hour.     Averafe   Cost.   Kd.  Sufnciet 

persons.     Seasonable  all  tl 

556.  OYSTERS     DEVILLED.         (Fr.— Huitres   d  la 

Diable.) 

Ingredients. —  i  dozen  oysters,  i  oz.  of  butter,  cayenne,  salt,  lemon, 
brown  bread,  butter. 

Method. — Open  the  oysters  carefully  so  as  to  preserve  as  much  of  the 
as  possible,  and  lea\  shells.     Sprinkle   tin  in 

1  more  liberally  with  i  avenne.  and  to  ea<  h  «»i. 
a  small  sters  on  a  gi 

slow  fire  until  thoroughly  heated,  then  serve  with  sliced  lemon  and 
thin  brown  bread  <T. 

Time.      ^  mm  ook.     Averaff  Cost,  2S.  per  Seasonable 

nl. 

557.  OYSTERS,      FRICASSEED.          (Fr-  Fricass6c 

aux  Huitrcs.) 

Ingredients.     18  large  oysters,  2|  ozs.  <»i  liuiier,  4  i«.ur, 


354         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

i  gill  of  white  stock,  £  of  a  gill  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  3  eggs,  i 
teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt,  nutmeg,  white  pepper,  10  small  heart- 
shaped  slices  of  fried  bread. 

Method. — Open  the  oysters,  preserve  the  liquor,  remove  the  beards, 
put  the  oysters  in  a  stewpan  with  i  oz.  of  butter  and  a  little  oyster 
liquor.  Season  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  grating  of  nutmeg,  and  a  pinch 
of  pepper.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  2  minutes  and  strain.  Melt  the  re- 
maining i£  ozs.  of  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook 
slightly  without  browning  and  dilute  with  the  liquor  from  the  oysters, 
the  remainder  of  the  oyster  liquor,  and  the  stock.  Stir  until  it  boils, 
simmer  for  about  10  minutes,  then  add  the  cream,  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs,  and  the  lemon-juice,  and  stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  a  few 
seconds  longer  to  bind  the  yolks.  Pass  the  sauce  through  a  fine  strainer 
or  tammy-cloth,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  the  oysters,  heat  thoroughly, 
but  on  no  account  allow  it  to  boil.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  garnished 
with  croutes  of  fried  bread  and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33. 6d.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

558.— OYSTERS,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Huitres  f rites.) 

Ingredients. — i  dozen  oysters,  fritter  batter,  %  a  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  lemon  rind,  fry  ing- 
fat. 

Method. — Blanch  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  strain  just  before 
boiling  point  is  reached,  drain  and  dry  them  well.  Make  the  batter 
as  directed,  and  add  the  parsley  and  lemon-rind.  Dip  each  oyster 
separately  in  the  batter,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned, 
then  drain  well  and  serve. 

Time. — To  fry,  about  4  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2S.  per  dozen.  Season- 
able from  September  to  April. 

559.— OYSTER    FRITTERS.      (Fr.— Beignets     aux 
Huitres.)    (Another   Method.) 

Ingredients. — 12  large  oysters,  3  ozs.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  tepid 
water,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  the  whites  of 
Z  eggs,  salt,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Make  a  batter  by  stirring  the  water  and  salad-oil,  gradually 
into  the  flour  ;  when  perfectly  smooth  add  the  salt,  and  lastly  the  stiffly 
whipped  whites  of  eggs.  Beard  the  oysters,  dip  them  in  the  batter, 
and  fry  them  in  hot  fat  until  they  acquire  a  golden-brown  colour. 

Time. — \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6 
persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

THE  OYSTER  (Fr.  huitre). — This  delicious  mollusc  is  the  type  of  the  family  Otsraeidae,  the  members 
of  which  are  characterized  by  their  inequivalve  shells,  i.e.,  one  half  or  valve  being  larger  than  the 
other.  The  valves  are  connected  with  a  bundle  of  strong  nerves  in  the  body  of  the  oyster,  and  by  their 
means  the  bivalve  is  able  to  hold  its  shells  tightly  together.  The  oyster  is  most  prolific,  its  fertilized 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    FISH  355 

K»  are  known  as  spat,  and  enormous  quantities  of  ova  are  produced  from  May  to  September,  llie 
pat  on  becoming  free  consists  of  a  tiny  body  enclosed  within  a  minute  shell,  and  is  furnished  with 
laments  by  which  it  nrst  swims  freely  about,  and  then  fixes  itself  to  some  substance,  lite  oyster, 
iuch  possesses  a  complete  digestive  system,  consisting  of  a  mouth,  stomach,  intestine  and  liver, 
btains  its  food  from  the  minute  organisms  or  particles  of  matter  which  flow  into  its  mouth  by  the 
trrents  of  water  which  pass  through  its  gills.  From  the  time  of  the  Romans,  who  highly  appreciated 
M  oysters  of  Britain,  thb  sheB-ST has  been  a  favourite  deUcacr,  not  only  for  its  rich  flavour 
spends  upon  its  feeding  ground,  but  also  for  the  nutritive  qualities  it  possess*!,  making  it  especially 
leful  for  invalids.  Oysters  attain  their  foil  growth  in  about  three  yean,  and  in  their  attached  state 
*m  "  oyster-beds  "  ;  the  most  celebrated  of  those  in  England  are  the  Whitstabie  and  Colchester 
sds.  Oysters  are  largely  cultivated  in  France,  rvrnrnar^fi^ttaod,  Portugal,  and  A meric*,  and  Urr« 
tantities  are  imported  into  Great  Britain  from  the  Continent  and  the  United  States.  Owing  to 


,<!rr'.;    ,  -.^r'-.l,   .t    !.:,•.!   Md    taBM     *N    I---".-   MlOMr]    ;  •  ;  ,.rr.l       N  .    W 

laws  relating  to  the  capture  and  preservation  of  oysters  are  in  force,  and  the  oyster  fishery  to  under 
the  control  of  Fishery  Boards,  subject  to  the  Board  of  Trade.  The  dote  time  far  deep-sea  oysters 
is  from  June  13  to  August  4,  and  for  other  kinds  from  May  14  to  Angu 

560.— OYSTER  FRITTERS.      (Fr.—  Beignets    aux 
Huitres.)      (Another   Method.) 

Ingredients. — 12  oysters,  12  small  thin  slices  of   bacon,  J  a  lemon 

'^-f:vt,   trying-batter. 

Method. — Sprinkle  the  oysters  with  lemon-juice,  and  roll  each  one 

lice  of  bacon  just  large  enough  to  enclose  it.    Make  the  batter 

as  directed,  No.  t  in  the  prepared  oysters  one  or  two  at  a  time, 

take  them  out  on  the  point  of  a  skewer,  drain  slightly,  and  at  once 

drop  them  into  hot  fat.     Fry  a  pale  golden-brown  colour,  drain  well, 

icd  parsli 
Time. — To  fry,  about  4  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2s.  per  dozen. 

56 1. -OYSTERS,  TO  KEEP. 

Place  them  in  a  tub  or  nther  suitable  vessel,  cover  with  salt  and 
the  oysters  remain  undisturbed  for  12  hours,  then  drain  off 
iter.     Allow  them  to  stand  another  12  hours  without  water, 
n  repeat  the  process  until  required  for  use. 

562. -OYSTERS,    MARGUERITE    STYLE.         (Fr.— 
Huitres  a  la  Marguerite.) 

Ingredients.— i  dozen  large  oysters,  i  a  stick  of  celery  (white  part 
ly),  1}  ozs.  of  butter,  i  glass  of  sherry,  i   teaspoon ful  of  cornflour, 
large  picked  shrimps,  a  little  stock,  lemon-juice,  seasoning,  and 

.—Beard  the  oysters,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  blanch  them 
i'.ior.  which  should  be  preserved.     Wash  and  trim  the 

fcfl  portions,  chop  r 
well  on  a  :  oz.  of  butter  in  the  chafing-dish  or 

idd  the  o  •   m  minutes.     Then  add  the 

oysters,  and  their  liquor,  and  season  with  salt  and  p 
c  cornflo  I  stock,  and  incorporate  this  with  the 

:  s,  etc.     Stir  until  it  boils,  adding  a  little  more  stock  to  moisten. 
th  a  few  drops  of  lemon- juice,  and  add  the  shrimps.     Put 
ler  of  the  butter,  and  cook  very  gc  minutes, 

hopped  parsley,  and  serve  from  the  chafing-dish. 


356         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time. —  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

563.— OYSTERS,    MARINER'S    FASHION.          (Fr.— 
Papillons  d' Huitres,  a,  la  Mariniere.) 

Ingredients. — 18  sauce  oysters,  \  glass  Chablis,  i  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  shallots,  i  oz.  of  fresh 
breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  \  a  lemon,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Beard  the  oysters,  and  put  them  with  their  liquor  in  a  pie- 
dish;  pour  the  white  wine  over  them,  and  let  it  stand  for  about  an  hour. 
Mix  the  parsley,  chopped  shallots,  and  breadcrumbs,  and  season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Range  the  oysters  in  a  buttered  fireproof 
baking-dish,  pour  over  a  little  of  the  liquor  and  wine,  and  cover  with 
the  mixture  of  breadcrumbs,  etc.  Divide  the  remainder  of  the  butter 
into  small  pieces,  and  place  them  on  top.  Bake  in  a  fairly  hot  oven 
for  about  15  minutes.  Squeeze  a  little  lemon-juice  on  top,  and  send 
to  table  in  the  baking-dish. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.  to  35.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

564.— OYSTER    OMELET.          (Fr.  —  Omelette    aux 
Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  6  oysters,  i  tablespoonful  of  white  sauce  or  fish 
sauce,  i  tablespoonful  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Blanch  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  without  allowing 
them  to  boil,  then  divide  them  in  halves  or  quarters,  and  mix  with 
them  the  sauce,  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the 
milk,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Melt  the  butter  in  an  omelet 
pan,  when  hot  pour  in  the  eggs,  stir  until  the  mixture  begins  to  set, 
then  place  the  oyster  preparation  in  the  centre,  fold  the  sides  in,  finish 
cooking,  and  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2S.  6d. 

565.— OYSTER   PATTIES.         (Fr.— Petites   Bouchees 
aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  puft-paste,  24  oysters,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of 
flour,  the  yolks  of  3  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  fish  stock  or  milk  (about), 
£  a  gill  of  cream,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper, 
parsley. 

Method. — When  the  paste  has  had  the  necessary  number  of  turns, 
roll  it  out  to  a  thickness  of  about  £  an  inch,  and  with  a  hot  wet  cutter 
of  2\  inches  diameter  stamp  out  8  or  9  rounds  of  paste.  Brush  these 
over  with  beaten  egg,  then  make  an  inner  ring  to  about  half  the  depth 
of  the  paste  with  a  cutter  i  inch  in  diameter,  previously  dipped  in  hot 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    FISH  357 

water.  Bake  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  20  or  25  minutes,  then  remove  and 
take  care  of  the  tops,  scoop  out  the  soft  inside,  and  keep  the  patties 
warm  until  required.  Meanwhile  put  the  oysters  and  their  liquor  into 
a  saucepan,  let  them  come  to  the  boil,  drain  them,  put  the  liquor 
aside,  remove  the  beards,  and  cut  each  oyster  in  two.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  for  3  or  4  minutes,  add 
the  oyster  liquor  with  enough  milk  to  make  half  a  pint,  and  stir  until 
the  sauce  boils.  Simmer  for  10  minutes,  add  the  cream,  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  lemon-juice,  and  seasoning  to  taste  ;  simmer  again  gently 
until  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  thicken,  then  pass  through  a  tammy-cloth 
or  tine  sieve.  Re-heat,  add  the  oysters,  and  when  thoroughly  hot, 

in  the  puff-paste  cases,  put  on  the  covers,  garnish  with  p  ' 
and  serve. 

Time. — £  an  hour  after  the  paste  is  made.  Average  Cost,  about 
2s.  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  paste.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9  patties.  Season- 
able from  September  to  April. 

566.— OYSTER  SAUSAGES. 

Ingredients. — 12  sauce  oysters,  i  Ib.  of  veal,  |  oi  ,i  11>.  of  suet  fmely- 
chopped,   i   thick  slice  of  bread,  i  egg,  butter  or  dripping  for  l: 
s.ih  and  pepper. 

Method.  <  >pen  the  oysters,  preserve  the  liquor,  remove  the  beards, 
and  cut  the  oysters  into  very  small  pieces.  Strain  the  liquor  over  the 
let  it  soak  until  soft,  then  drain  off  any  unabsorbed  liquor, 
and  beat  the  bread  with  a  fork  until  no  lumps  remain.  Pass  tl> 
2  or  3  times  through  a  mincing-m.u  hme,  add  the  surt,  bread,  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  and  lastly  ti  .  1  he  preparation 

may  be  improved  by  being  well  pounded  in  a  mortar,  but  it  is  not  abso- 
Intelv  \.  When  ready,  press  into  skins,  or  shape  in  the  form 

of  small  sausages,  roll  lightly  in  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  p» 
and  fry  in  hot  butter  or  fat. 

Time.  — Alto-ether,   i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  2S.  3d. 

567.— OYSTERS,      SCALLOPED.        (Fr.  -  -  Escalopes 
aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredienh  sters,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  J  pint  of  white 

j  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  pepper,  salt,  breadcrumbs,  bir 

Method. — Remove  the  beards  of  the  oysters  and  simmer  them  about 

10  minutes  in  the  oyster  liquor.     Have  the  o  ady  in  a  small 

,  strain  the  liquor  on  to  them,  and  cover  the  basin  to  keep  in  the 

.     Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  cook  for  2  or  3 

minutes,  then  pour  in  the  stock  and  the  oyster   liquor,  and  stir  until 

the  sauce  boils.     Simmer  for  2  or  3  minutes,  to  ensure  the  flour  bcini* 

thoroughly  cooked,  then  add  the  cream  and  the  oysters,  and  season  to 

.     Have   ready  some  well-buttered   scallop-shells,   in   which    the 


358         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

oysters  should  be  served,  fill  them  with  the  oysters  and  the  sauce, 
cover  with  breadcrumbs,  pour  on  a  little  melted  butter,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven  just  long  enough  to  brown  the  surface. 

Time. — Altogether,  30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  35.  3d.  to  33.  9d. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

568.— OYSTER  SOUFFLE  (.FV.— Souffle  aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — 2  small  whitings,  6  large  sauce  oysters,  i£  ozs.  of  flour, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  about  £  pint  of  milk,  £  gill  of  cream,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  anchovy-essence,  3  eggs,  seasoning. 

Method. — Skin  the  whitings,  remove  all  the  meat  from  the  bones, 
^nd  pound  it  in  a  mortar.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour, 
and  cook  a  little  without  browning  ;  moisten  with  the  milk  and  oyster 
liquor,  stir  briskly  until  quite  smooth,  then  add  the  cream.  Cook  a 
little  longer,  but  stir  all  the  while.  Remove  the  beards  from  the  oysters, 
cut  the  latter  into  dice,  and  put  them  into  the  mixture  ;  season  to 
taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  work  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  the 
anchovy -essence,  and  the  pounded  fish.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
to  a  stiff  froth,  and  mingle  them  carefully  with  the  mixture.  Three 
parts  fill  a  well-buttered  souffle  tin  or  Charlotte  mould,  steam  for 
about  45  minutes.  Remove  from  the  mould,  and  serve  with  a  white 
sauce. 

Time. — To  steam,  about  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for 
6  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

569.— OYSTER     SOUFFLES,    Small.          (Fr.— Petits 
Souffles  aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — 6  large  sauce  oysters,  2  eggs,  £•  pint  of  milk  (about) 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  salt,  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  beards  of  the  oysters,  simmer  them  in  the  oyster 
liquor  for  10  minutes,  and  cut  the  oysters  into  small  pieces.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  boil  well,  then 
let  it  slightly  cool.  Separate  the  whites  of  the  eggs  from  the  yolks, 
and  whisk  them  to  a  stiff  froth  ;  add  the  yolks  one  at  a  time  to  the 
contents  of  the  saucepan,  and  beat  well.  When  thoroughly  mixed 
put  in  the  oysters,  oyster  liquor,  add  seasoning  to  taste,  and  lastly 
the  whites  of  the  eggs,  which  must  be  added  as  lightly  as  possible 
to  the  mixture.  Have  ready  some  well-buttered  china  cases,  half 
fill  them  with  the  mixture,  and  bake  for  about  15  minutes  in  a  moder- 
ately hot  oven,  or  steam  them  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  for 
20  minutes.  The  souffles  may  be  baked  in  paper  cases,  but  the  latter 
must  previously  be  well  buttered  or  oiled. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Allow  8 
souffles  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    FISH  359 

570.— OYSTER   VOL-AU-VENT.       (Fr.— Vol-au-Vent 
aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  puff-paste,  24  oysters,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz. 
of  flour,  the  yolks  of  3  eggs,  |  of  a  pint  of  fish  stock  or  milk  (about), 
£  a  gill  of  cream,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  salt  and  pepper, 
pars! 

Method. — Roll  out  the  paste  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Take  a  large,  fluted  oval  cutter,  dip  it  into  hot  water,  and  stamp  out 
2  pieces  of  paste.  Remove  the  centre  of  one  piece  of  paste  with  a  hot 
wet  smaller  cutter.  Wet  the  edge  of  the  piece  of  paste  which  is  intact, 
place  the  ring  of  paste  on  the  top  of  it,  and  brush  the  surface  with 
yolk  of  egg.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  ;  when  done,  scoop  out  a  little  of  the 
,  fill  with  the  oyster  mixture  (see  oyster  patties),  and  decorate 
with  a  little  lobster  coral  and  parsley. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  35.  6d., 
exclusive  of  the  paste.  Sufficient  for  one  vol-au-vent.  Seasonable  from 
September  to  April. 

571.— PERCH,  BOILED.     (Fr.— Perche  bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — 4  perch,  salt. 

Method. — The  peculiarity  of  the  perch  is  the  difficulty  experienced 

in  removing  its  scales.    Sometimes  it  is  boiled  and  the  scales  removed 

ards,  but  a  better  plan  is  to  plunge  the  fish  for  2  or  3  minutes 

into  boiling  water,  and  then  scale  it.     Before  boiling,  the  fish  must 

be  washed  in  \\.inn  wau-r,  cleaned,  and    the  gills  and  fins  removed. 

ready  boiling  water  to  cover  the  fish,  add  salt  to  taste,  and  boil 

them  gently  from  10  to  20  minutes,  according  to  their  size.     Serve 

with  Hollandaise  or  melted  butter  sauce. 

Time. — 10  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  is.  each.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  May  to  1 

Note. — Tench  may  be  boiled  the  same  way.  and  served  with  the  same 

THE  PERCH  (Fr.  perdu).— This  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  common  of  fresh-water  fish  found  in 
nearly  all  the  rivers  and  lakes  of  Britain  and  Ireland,  and  the  whole  of  Europe  within  the  temperate 
zone.  It  is  extremely  voracious,  and  has,  contrary  to  the  usual  nature  of  fresh-water  fish  of  prey, 
the  peculiarity  of  being  gregarious.  The  teeth  of  the  perch  are  numerous  and  large  -.  its  scales  are 
ctenoid,  or  comb-shaped  ;  the  gill-cover  and  dorsal  fin  are  furnished  with  spines ;  the  tail  and  pectoral 
fins  are  of  a  bright  red  colour.  May  to  the  middle  of  July  to  the  best  season  for  angling  for  perch. 

Larffo  miri.UTi  ..<  thu  n>h  arc  LreU  a:.J  ;  n-vrvcui  ID  th<-  p  :-,d*  ,-f  lUn.p.t.ii  ....  ..irt  M  i  Safe*]    Kir* 

The  perch  possesses  great  vitality,  and  wUl  live  far  a  considerable  time  out  of  water  if  its  gills  be  kept 
moist  The  bass  fa  frequently  called  the  sea-perch.  The  CLIMMNO  PEACH  of  India,  by  a  remark- 
able arran*et nm  t  of  the  cells  of  the  pharyngeal  bones,  which  retain  moisture  in  the  gills  for  a  consider- 
able period,  is  able  to  migrate  overland  in  search  of  a  fresh  supply  of  water  when  the  pools  in  which 
:)«  are  dried  up.  It  progresses  by  means  of  its  stifl  spiny  fins.  The  name  "  climbing 
perch  "  has  been  given  to  the  fish  from  the  supposition  that  it  climbs  the  rough  stems  of  the  palm- 


r--<  -. 


572.—  PERCH,  FRIED.     (Fr.—  Perche  frite.) 

Ingredients.  —  4   perch,   egg,    breadcrumbs,    frying-fat,   salt,    p« 
flour. 


360         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Scale,  clean,  wash,  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly.  Sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  well  with  flour,  brush  over  with  beaten 
egg,  and  cover  them  with  breadcrumbs.  Have  ready  some  hot  fat, 
fry  the  fish  until  nicely  browned,  drain  well,  and  serve  with  anchovy, 
shrimp,  or  melted  butter  sauce. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  6d.  to  is.  each. 
Allow  i  medium-sized  fish  to  each  person.  Seasonable  from  May  to 
February. 

573.—PERCH,    STEWED.          (Fr.—  Perche    au    Vin 
Blanc.) 

Ingredients. — 4  perch,  £  a  pint  of  good  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  wine, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz  of  flour,  i  dessertspooonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  anchovy-essence,  i  bay-leaf,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),  i  clove,  salt  and  pepper,  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Scale,  clean,  and  wash  the  fish,  and  remove  the  fins  and 
gills.  Melt  half  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  without  brown- 
ing, then  add  the  stock,  wine,  anchovy-essence,  bay-leaf,  bouquet- 
garni,  and  clove,  and  simmer  for  10  minutes.  Put  in  the  fish,  and  let 
them  cook  gently  for  about  10  minutes,  then  lift  them  out  carefully 
on  to  a  hot  dish,  and  keep  them  warm.  Melt  the  remaining  oz.  of 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then 
add  the  liquor  (strained),  in  which  the  fish  was  cooked,  and  stir  until 
it  boils.  Add  the  parsley  and  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and  pour 
over  the  fish. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  is.  each.  Allow 
I  medium-sized  fish  to  each  person.  Seasonable  from  May  to  Febru- 
ary. 

574.— PIKE,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Brochet  Farci.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  pike  (about  4  lb.),  4  ozs.  of  veal  forcemeat 
(No.  412),  i  egg,  brown  breadcrumbs,  butter,  or  fat  for  basting. 

Method. — Wash,  clean,  and  scale  the  fish,  and  remove  the  fins  and 
gills.  Fill  the  inside  with  forcemeat,  sew  up  the  opening,  brush  over 
with  beaten  egg,  and  cover  with  breadcrumbs.  Sometimes  the  fish 
is  trussed  in  a  round  shape,  the  tail  being  fastened  in  the  mouth  by 
means  of  a  skewer.  Before  putting  the  fish  in  the  oven  it  should  be 
well  basted  with  hot  fat  or  butter,  and  as  this  fish  is  naturally  dry  it 
must  be  frequently  basted,  and  kept  covered  with  a  greased  paper  while 
cooking.  Bake  gently  from  40  to  45  minutes,  and  serve  with  a  suitable 
sauce. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  8  to  10  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to 
February. 


FISH. 


• 


FISH. 


i.  Savoury  Haddock  Timbales.     2.  Whiting  Souffle.      3.  Lobster  Cutlets. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING    FISH  361 

575.— PIKE,  BOILED.      (Fr.— Brochet  Bouilli.) 

Ingredients. —  i   pike,  salt,  vinegar. 

Method.  —Pour  boiling  water  over  the  fish  until  the  scales  look  dull, 
then  plunge  ii  into  cold  water,  and  remove  the  scales  at  once  with  the 
back  of  a  knife.  Empty  the  fish,  remove  the  gills  and  fins,  and  wash 
well.  Have  ready  a  nsh-keuK  of  warm  water,  add  salt  and  vinegar 
to  taste,  put  in  the  fish,  and  boil  gently  until  the  fish  v  easily 

from  the  Ixme  (one  weighing  4  Ib.  would  require  about  25  or  30  minutes), 
i  with  Hollandaisc,  anchovy,  or  melted  butter  sauce. 

Time.  According  to  size,  from  $  to  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  6d. 
per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  8  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to 

IKE  (Fr.  bfocktt). — On  account  of  its  voracity,  the  pike  is  frequently  called  the  "  fresh-water 
The  common  pike  occurs  in  the  rivers  and  lakes  of  Europe,  especially  in  th<  • 

In  KUSM.I  .1-  s  to  large  dimensions    The  body  of  th 

t-xl  with  grren  above  and  silvery-white  below ;  the  lower  jaw  pr»- 


<!'  j>[  •    i  i'  i    •:     '   :      : 

• 

Is  i,.|i.,l(l'Tt  .1   (..   I"' 


numerous  strong  teeth.    The  p  .  the  spring  ;   its  young  are 

it  from  May  t 
<*s.      Owing  to  its  extreme  voracity  the  pike  commits  great 

It  b  a  very  long-l 

o  a  great  age.    In  Scotland,  the  pike  is  called  the  **  gedd."    The  flesh  of  the  pike 
cry  wholesome,  but  it  is  somewhat 


576.  -PIKE,  CRIMPED  AND  FRIED.     (Fr.— Brochet 

recrepi.) 

Ingredients.  -Tiki-,  egg,  breadcrumbs,   frying-fat,  salt,  piquant,  an- 

brown  caper  sauces. 

Method.     I  .  1     ;   i       i    purpose  should  be  fairly  large  and  quite  fresh. 
the  lMi  thoroughly,  cut  it  into  $-in<  and  cover 

i.uii  until  the  flesh  becomes 

ntlv   firm,   tlu  ;i   <lrv   v,  tlour  seasoned 

ilt  and  pepper.    Brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  coat  carcfulh 

afterwards   fry   in   hoi  browned, 

^rsley,  and  serve   the  sauce 

Time.     ]   hour.      Average   Cost,  3d.    to    6d.    per  Ib.       Seasonable  at 
trom  September  t« 

577.  -  PIKE,  FILLETS  OF,  ITALIAN  STYLE.     ,  / 

Filets  de  Brochet  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients,     i   nvdiun.  ke,  i\  ozs.  of  butter,  J  of  a  pint  of 

\o.  233,  2  tablcspoonfuls  of  tomato  \  jxx>n- 

and  pepper. 

Method.  kin  and  cut   the  fish  into  neat   fill  t    the 

butter  in  put   in    the  fish,  baste  it    well,  and  sprinkle 

with  a  greased  paper,  cook  gently 

minutes.  n  at  o  puree  and  sherry.     Continue 

to  cook  si"  about  20  minutes,  then  transfer  the  li-h  \ •«  ;  y  care- 


362  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

fully  to  a  hot  dish,  and  strain  the  sauce  over.  If  liked,  the  baking- 
dish  may  be  rubbed  over  with  a  cut  clove  of  garlic  before  putting  in  the 
fish. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  6d,  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

578.— PIKE,    STEWED.     (Fr—  Brochet  en  compote.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  pike,  slices  of  bacon,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  a  pint 
of  stock  or  water,  i  glass  of  sherry,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  clean  and  dry  the  pike,  place  it  in  a  stewpan,  in  which 
the  butter  has  been  previously  melted,  and  cover  with  slices  of  bacon. 
Put  on  a  close-fitting  lid,  let  the  fish  cook  in  the  steam  for  15  minutes, 
then  add  the  stock  and  wine,  and  season  to  taste.  Simmer  very  gently 
for  about  -£  an  hour,  then  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  the  gravy  strained 
round. 

Time. — To  stew,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

579.— PILCHARDS. 

Pilchards  are  rarely  found  on  the  British  shores,  except  at  St.  Ives, 
Mount's  Bay,  Mevagissy,  and  one  or  two  other  places  on  the  coast 
of  Cornwall  and  Devon.  The  pilchard  may  be  distinguished  from  the 
herring  by  the  fin,  which  is  exactly  in  the  middle  of  the  back,  while 
in  the  herring  it  is  nearer  to  the  tail.  The  taste  of  the  pilchard  is 
similar  to  that  of  the  herring,  but  it  is  more  oily.  Pilchards  quickly 
lose  their  freshness,  and  therefore  are  not  often  sent  uncured  to  any 
great  distance  from  the  places  where  they  are  caught.  In  a  cured 
condition  they  are  largely  exported.  Pilchards  may  be  dressed  accord- 
ing to  the  directions  given  for  cooking  herrings. 

580.— PLAICE,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Pile  Farcie.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  plaice,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  white  bread- 
crumbs, i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  suet,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  a  pinch 
of  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  i  egg,  pale  browned  breadcrumbs,  a  little 
fat  or  butter,  milk. 

Method. — Mix  the  white  breadcrumbs,  suet,  parsley,  herbs  and  nutmeg 
together,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  £  the  egg,  and  enough 
milk  to  thoroughly  moisten  the  whole.  Make  an  incision  down  the 
centre  of  the  fish  as  for  filleting,  raise  the  flesh  each  side  as  far  as  pos- 
sible, and  fill  with  the  forcemeat.  Instead  of  drawing  the  sides  of  the 
fish  close  together,  fill  up  the  gap  with  forcemeat,  and,  with  a  knife, 
flatten  the  surface  to  the  level  of  the  fish.  Brush  over  with  the  remain- 
ing half  of  the  egg,  cover  lightly  with  the  pale  browned  breadcrumbs, 
place  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake  from  20  to  30 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  363 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  from  35  to  40  minutes.     Average    Cost, 
:o  is.  6d.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.     Seasonable  all  the  year. 

Note. — The  forcemeat  may  be  varied  by  using  shrimps  or  oysters  (see  Fish 
Cakes). 

THE  PLAICE  (Ft.  plie)  is  one  of  the  commonest  species  of  the  PkurontctuUu,  or  flat-fishes,  and  k 
found  in  large  quantities  on  the  coasts  of  England,  and  the  Baltic  and  Mediterranean  seas.  Its 
upper  side  is  brown  with  red  or  orange  spots.  The  plaice  feeds  near  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  and  is 
caught  by  trawl  nets.  Although  less  delicate  in  flavour  than  the  sole,  the  plaice  is  a  favourite  foh 
food. 

581.— PLAICE,    FILLETS  OF,    WITH    WINE  SAUCE. 
(Fr. — Filets  de  Plie  au  Vin  Blanc.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  plaice,  a  glass  of  Chablis  or  Sautcrno 
wine,  6  mushrooms,  i  blade  of  mace,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  shallots,  J  oz. 
of  flour,  i  gill  fish  stock,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method.— Take  the  black  skin  off  the  fish,  remove  the  f 
trim  these  as  neatly  as  possible,  and  cut  each  into  2  or  3  fillets  of  an 
even  size.  Place  these  in  a  buttered  saute- pan,  season  with  pepp< 
salt,  moisten  with  the  wine  and  about  a  tablcspoonful  of  mushroom 
liquor  ;  add  also  the  blade  of  mace,  and  the  shallots,  peeled  and  cut 
in  two.  Cover  the  fillets  with  a  piece  of  buttered  paper,  and  cook  in  a 
moderately  heated  oven  for  about  15  minutes,  or  less,  according  to  the 
icss  of  the  fish.  In  the  meantime,  prepare  a  white  roux  or, 
thickening,  with  the  remaining  butter  and  the  flour,  moisten  with  a  gill 
of  fish  stock,  a  little  hot  milk,  and  the  liquor  from  the  fillets,  stir 
the  roux  until  it  boils,  and  let  it  simmer  for  10  minutes.  Cut  the  mush- 
rooms into  slices.  Season  and  strain  the  sauce,  add  the  yolk  of  the  egg, 
:p  long  enough  to  bind  the  ingredients  together,  then  add  the 
mushrooms.  Dish  up  the  fish,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fillets,  garnish 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  J  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year  round. 

582.— PLAICE,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Plie  Frite.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  plaice  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat, 
flour,  salt  and  pepper,  parsley. 

Method. — Wash,  dry,  and  fillet  the  fish,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  con- 
venient for  serving.  Season  a  good  tablcspoonful  of  flour  rather  highly 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  in  it  dip  each  piece  of  fish,  then  brush  over 
with  egg,  cover  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely 
browned.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  anchovy,  shrimp, 
or  melted  butter  sauce. 

Time.— To  prepare  and  cook,  about  $  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  i 
Sufficient  for    5    or    6    persons.      Seasonable    all    th 
round. 


364  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

583.— PLAICE,  FRIED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  plaice,  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  frying- 
fat  or  oil. 

Method. — Prepare  the  fish  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  but  instead 
of  coating  the  fish  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  slip  each  piece  into  a 
thick  smooth  batter  made  of  flour  and  water. 

Time. — To  fry,  atout  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  4d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year  round. 

584.— PLAICE,  OR  SOLES,  ROLLED. 

(Fr. — Paupiettes  de  Plie.) 

Ingredients. — i  plaice  or  2  soles,  lemon-juice,  pepper  and  salt,  £  a 
shallot,  i  bay-leaf,  parsley,  2  cloves,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
\  a  pint  of  fish  stock,  (i  gill  of  milk,  i  gill  of  water,  i  tablespoonful  of 
cream). 

Method. — Fillet  the  plaice,  season  the  fillets  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
lemon- juice.  Roll  them,  and  put  them  on  a  greased  baking-sheet 
with  a  greased  paper  over  them.  Put  the  bones  into  a  stewpan  with 
the  milk  and  water,  bay-leaf,  parsley  stalks,  cloves,  and  shallot,  and 
simmer  for  20  minutes.  Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  add  the  fish  stock,  and  stir  the  ingredients  until 
they  boil.  Bake  the  rolled  fillets  for  about  10  minutes  or  until  cooked 
sufficiently,  and  season  to  taste.  Dish  them  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  strain 
the  sauce  over,  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  parsley  on  the  top,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  5  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to 
is.  6d.,  when  plaice  is  used.  Sufficient  for  5  to  6  persons.  Seasonable 
all  the  year  round. 

585.— TO  BOIL  PRAWNS,   OR  SHRIMPS. 

(Fr. — Crevettes.) 

Method. — Prawns  should  be  very  red,  and  have  no  spawn  when  cooked; 
much  depends  on  their  freshness,  and  the  way  in  which  they  are  cooked. 
Throw  them  into  boiling  water,  salted,  and  keep  them  boiling  for  about 
7  or  8  minutes.  Shrimps  should  be  done  in  the  same  way,  but  less 
time  must  be  allowed.  It  may  easily  be  known  when  they  are  done  by 
their  changing  colour.  Care  should  be  taken  that  they  are  not  over- 
boiled, as  they  then  become  tasteless  and  indigestible. 

Time. — Prawns,  about  8  minutes  ;  shrimps,  about  5  minutes.  Average 
Cost,  prawns,  9d.  to  is.  6d.  per  dozen  ;  shrimps,  4d.  to  6d.  a  pint. 
Seasonable  all. the  year. 

THE  PRAWN  (Fr.  crevctic)  is  a  crustacean  allied  to  the  lobsters  and  crabs,  and  resembles  the  shrimp 
in  its  appearance,  but  it  is  much  larger  and  more  delicate  in  flavour.  Its  colour  is  light  orange-grey 
and  the  body  is  almost  transparent ;  it  changes  to  red  when  boiled,  and  becomes  opaque.  The  prawn 
3t>9Uijds  in  various  parts  of  the  English  coast,  especially  in  the  south  and  south-west. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    FISH  365 


586.— PRAWNS,  CURRY  OF.  (Fr.— Crevettes    a 

1'Indienne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  dozen  prawns,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
curry  powder,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  i  sour  apple  coarsely-chopped, 
i  siiuill  onion  sliced,  i  tablespoonful  of  cocoanut  grated,  i  tcaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice,  £  a  pint  of  stock,  salt. 

Method. — Shell  the  prawns  and  put   them  aside.     Melt   the  butter 

in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  without  browning,  then  add  the  curry- 

pu  \vder  and  flour,  and  fry  slowly  for  at  least  20  minutes.     Add  the 

stock,  apple,  cocoanut,  and  a  little  salt,  simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour, 

rain  and  return  to  the  stewpan.     Season  to  taste,  add  the  lemon - 

put   in  the  prawns,  and  when  thoroughly  hot  serve  with  \vell- 

boiled    n<     . 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost.  Cording  to  the 

i   the  prawns.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

587.— PRAWNS,  TO  SERVE. 

In  the  centre  of  a  dish  place  a  dariol  mould,  or  a  small  basin  w1 

U  required,  and  cover  it  with  a  small  .      Arrange 

tin    prawns  around  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid,  garnish  with  tufts  of 
y,  and  s< 

588.— PRAWNS,    OR   SHRIMPS,    POTTED. 

(Fr. — Terrine  de  Crevettes.) 

Ingredients.— i  quart  of  fresh  prawas  or  shrimps,  $  of  a  Ib.  of 
butter,  rayenne,  pounded  mace  or  nutmeg,  a  1. 

Method.-  The  fish  should  be  perfect!  ;-ge  as  possible. 

Hoil,  then  shell  them  and  divide  tlu-m  slightly,  and  pound  to  a  paste 

r  with  the  butter  and  seasoning.      Rub  through  a  fine  I 
into  small  pots,  cover  with  clarified  butter,  and  when  cold  tic 
down  <  1<> 

Tlme.— S  minutes,  to  lx.il  the  prawns.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  23. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

589.     SALMON    BAKED,   ITALIAN  STYLE. 

(Fr.— Saumon  etufe  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — About  2  Ib.  of  salmon  (middle),  2  small  shallots  (p 

iopped\    i    teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt   and  pepper, 
1  nutmeg,  i  small  izlass  of  claret,  Genoise  or  tomato  sa 
Method.     Cut  the  fish  into  2  or  3  even-sized  slices,  place  these  on  a 
Wdl-btlttered    baking-tin    or    sautr  pan.     Season    with    salt,    pepper, 
and   A  littl  r   the  chopped   shall* »: 


366  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

parsley,  and  place  the  remainder  of  the  butter  on  top  of  the  fish. 
Moisten  with  the  wine,  and  bake  for  about  15  minutes,  basting  the 
fish  frequently.  When  done,  dish  up,  and  pour  some  Genoise  or 
tomato  sauce  over  the  slices  of  salmon.  The  essence  left  in  the  pan 
in  which  the  fish  was  baked  must  be  utilized  for  flavouring  the  sauce. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  8  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  August. 

590.— SALMON,  BOILED.    (Fr—  Saumon  bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — Salmon.  For  the  court-bouillon  (or  highly-seasoned  fish 
stock),  allow  to  each  quart  of  water  i  dessertspoonful  of  salt,  I  small 
turnip,  i  small  onion,  %  a  leek,  i  strip  of  celery,  6  pepper-corns,  a  bou- 
quet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf). 

Method. — Put  into  the  fish-kettle  just  enough  water  to  cover  the 
fish,  and  when  boiling  add  the  prepared  vegetables,  and  cook  gently 
for  30  minutes.  In  the  meantime,  wash,  clean,  and  scale  the  fish, 
and  tie  it  loosely  in  a  piece  of  muslin.  Remove  any  scum  there  may  be 
on  the  court-bouillon,  then  put  in  the  fish  and  boil  gently  until 
sufficiently  cooked  (the  time  required  depends  more  on  the  thickness 
of  the  fish  than  the  weight  ;  allow  10  minutes  for  each  Ib.  when  cooking 
a  thick  piece,  and  7  minutes  for  the  tail  end),  then  drain  well,  dish 
on  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  with  sliced  cucumber, 
and  Hollandaise,  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — From  7  to  10  minutes  per  Ib.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  3d.  to 
2s.  6d.  Sufficient,  allow  from  4  to  6  ozs.  per  head.  Seasonable  from 
April  to  August. 

591.— SALMON,  BOILED.      (Fr.— Saumon  bouilli.) 
(Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — Salmon,  salt,  boiling  water. 

Method. — Scale  and  clean  the  fish,  and  put  it  into  the  fish-kettle 
with  sufficient  boiling  water  to  just  cover  it,  adding  salt  to  taste.  The 
boiling  water  is  necessary  to  preserve  the  colour  of  the  fish.  Simmer 
gently  until  the  fish  can  be  easily  separated  from  the  bone,  thus  en- 
suring its  being  thoroughly  cooked,  otherwise  it  will  be  unwholesome, 
but  on  the  other  hand,  if  over-cooked  it  will  be  dry  and  insipid. 
Drain  well,  dish  on  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  cut-lemon  and 
parsley,  and  serve  with  lobster,  shrimp,  or  other  suitable  sauce,  and 
a  dish  of  thinly-sliced  cucumber. 

Time. — According  to  size.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  perlb.  Suffi- 
cient— Allow  4  oz.  per  head,  when  served  in  the  fish  course  of  a  dinner. 
Seasonable  from  February  to  September,  but  most  plentiful  in  July  and 
August. 

To  CHOOSE  SALMON. — To  be  good,  the  belly  should  be  firm  and  thick,  and  this  may  readily  be 
ascertained  by  feeling  it  with  the  thumb  and  finger  The  circumstance  of  this  fish  having  red 
gills,  though  given  as  a  standing  rule  in  most  cookery  books,  as  a  sign  of  its  goodness,  is  not  at  all 
to  be  relied  on,  for  this  appearance  can  be  proiucjd  artificially. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  367 

592.— SALMON    BAKED  WITH    CAPER   SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Saumon,  Sauce  aux  Capres.) 

Ingredients. — 2  slices  of  salmon,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  i  shallot,  salt  and  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg  to 
taste.  (Caper  sauce  No.  i  ; 

Method. — Lay  the  salmon  in  a  baking-dish,  place  the  pieces  of  butter 

over  it,  and  add  the  other  ingredients,  nibbing  a  little  of  the  seasoning 

into  the  fish.     Baste  frequently  and  when  done  place  the  salmon  on 

a  dish,  pour  caper  sauce  over  it,  and  serve.     Salmon  dressed  in  this 

with  tomato  sauce  is  very  delicious. 

Time. — About  J  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  Seasonable  from 
April  to  August.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

593.— SALMON,  COLLARED.  (Fr.— Saumon  au  Four.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  salmon,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  mace,  cayenne, 

rcorns,  allspice,  bay-leaves,  cloves. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  head  and  tail,  wash  and  scale  the  fish,  and  cut 
it  in  two  lengthwise.  Only  i  half  is  required  for  a  roll,  therefore 
cither  2  rolls  must  be  made,  or  the  other  half  dressed  in  another 

•gether  ±  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  $  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
a  good  pinch  each  of  mace  and  cayenne.  Remove  the  bones  an<: 
from  the  fish,  spread  it  flat  on  the  table,  and  rub  the  inside  well  with 
the  seasoning.  Roll  up  the  fish,  and  bind  it  firmly  with  string. 
Have  ready  a  stewpan,  just  large  enough  to  hold  the  fish,  containing 
boiling  water  and  vinegar,  in  the  proportion  of  ^  of  a  pint  of  vinegar  to 
i  pint  of  water,  and  add  i .-  peppercorns,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  allsp; 

!>nt  in  the  li*h.  and  simmer 

fnr  .ilxnit   i   hour.     When  done,  place  in  a  d« 
and  when  the  liquor  is  cold  pour  it  over  the  salmon,  and  let  it  P 
until 

Time.— To  prepare  and  cook,  about  1$  hours.     Average  Cost,  i 
6d.  per  Ib.      Sufflcient    tor    i    dish.      Seasonable  from    \: 

594.  -SALMON,  CRIMPED.     (Fr.— Saumon  recrepi.) 

Salmon  should  l><  I  as  soon  as  possible  after  being  caught. 

•s  about  apart  should  be  made  on  both  si 

ri^h.  which  should  at  once  be  plunged  into  cold  water  and  allowed  to 
>urs,  changing  the  water  3  times  at  least* 

595.  SALMON,  CURED  OR  SALTED. 

Ingredients.  -  ->.  iltpetre. 

Method.  Split  the  fish  in  ]  move  the  bone,  dry  well  with  a 

soft  d  ^prinkle  liberally  with  salt.  I.et  it  remain  thus  for  24 

hours,  thei  ad  dry  thoroughly,  and  divide  the  fish  into  pieces 


368  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

to  pack  conveniently  in  a  large  jar.  Add  i  oz.  of  saltpetre  to  12  ozs. 
of  salt,  rub  the  mixture  well  into  the  fish,  and  pack  closely  in  a  jar 
with  salt  between  the  layers.  If  the  salt,  when  dissolved,  does  not 
cover  the  fish,  make  a  little  strong  brine,  and  add  it,  when  quite  cold, 
to  the  contents  of  the  jar. 

596.—  SALMON,      CURRY     OF.         (Fr.—  Saumon    a 
rindienne.) 


Ingredients.  —  i£lb.  of  cooked  salmon,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  curry-powder,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  i  sour  apple  (or  a  corres- 
ponding amount  of  rhubarb  or  green  gooseberries)  coarsely-chopped, 
i  small  onion  sliced,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  \  a  teaspoonful 
of  anchovy-essence,  £  a  pint  of  fish  stock  or  water,  salt. 

Method.  —  Melt  the  butter,  fry  the  onion  without  browning,  then 
add  the  curry-powder  and  flour,  and  fry  slowly  for  about  20  minutes. 
Add  the  fish  stock  or  water,  apple,  onion,  and  salt  to  taste,  simmer 
gently  for  \  an  hour,  then  strain,  replace  in  the  stewpan,  and  add  the 
anchovy-essence,  lemon-  juice,  and  seasoning,  if  necessary.  Have 
the  fish  ready  freed  from  skin  and  bones,  and  separated  into  large 
flakes,  put  it  into  the  prepared  curry  sauce,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and 
serve  with  well-boiled  rice. 

Time.  —  About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  August. 

597.—  SALMON  CUTLETS.       (Fr.—  Cotelettes  de  Sau- 
mon en  Papillotes.) 

Ingredients.  —  Slices  of  salmon,  butter,"  pepper  and  salt,  anchovy  or 
caper  sauce. 

Method.  —  Cut  the  slices  i  inch  thick,  and  season  them  with  pepper 
and  salt.  Butter  some  sheets  of  white  paper,  enclose  each  slice  of  fish 
separately,  and  secure  the  ends  of  the  paper  case  by  twisting  tightly, 
broil  gently  over  a  clear  fire,  and  serve  with  anchovy  or  caper 
sauce. 

Time.  —  From  loto  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  from  April  to  August. 

598.—  SALMON  DARIOLES.    (Fr.—  Darioles  de  Saumon 
a  la  Moscovienne.) 

Ingredients.  —  About  i  Ib.  of  cooked  salmon,  6  large  oysters,  i  large 
truffle,  i  hard-boiled  egg,  \  an  oz.  of  anchovy  -paste,  a  teaspoonful  of 
tarragon  vinegar,  £  of  a  gill  of  cream,  about  £  a  pint  of  aspic  jelly, 
4  filletted  anchovies,  a  few  slices  of  cucumber,  red  chilies,  a  pinch  of 
cayenne,  salt  and  pepper,  grated  nutmeg,  ice. 

Method.  —  Flake  the  salmon,  line  6  to  8  small  dariole,  bouche,  or 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING  FISH  369 

tiniKile  moulds  witli  a  thin  layer  of  aspic  jelly,  decorate  with  a  few  thin 

of  trutiles,  some  niee  Hakes  of  salmon,  and  a  few  strips  of  red 

Set   the  Burnish  will  with  a  little  aspic,  and  put  it  aside  to 

cool.     Pound    t  mder  of   the   fish   in  a  mortar   together  with 

6  cooked  oysters,  the  hard-boiled  egg,  and  the  anchovy-paste  ;  season 

\\ith  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.     I\ul» 

-icve,  add  the  tarragon  vinegar,  in,  and  about  I 

^ill  of  aspic  jelly,  mix  the  ingredient  >  well  to-rther,  and    then  fill  the 

moulds.     Put  the  anchovy  fillets  and  a  few  slices  of  truffles  be 

the  farce,  or  stuffing,  in  filling.    If  the  mixture  does  not  quite  fill  the 

moulds,  supply  the  deficiency  with  aspic  jelly,  and  stand  the  moulds 

on  the  ice  until  required.     For  serving,  immerse  the  moulds  in  tepid 

water,  turn  out  the  contents  quickly,  and  place  them  on  a  round 

:i  round  »ppcd   aspic  and  a  few  fancifully-cut 

of    CUCIII 

Time. — About   i   hour.     Average  Cost,  3*.   to   35.  6d.     Sufficient  for  6 
persons.     Seasonable  at  any  t 

599.— SALMON,  FILLETS  OF,  MORNY  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Filets  de  Saumon  a  la  Mornay.) 

Ingredients,     j  Alices  of  salmon,  from  |  to  i  inch  in  thickness,  2}  ozs. 
of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  J  of  a  pint  of  fish  stock,  J  of  a  pint  of  c 
I  onion  coarsely-chopped,  a  bouquet -garni  (parsley,  thyme,  ba> 
i  tablespoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon- 
salt  and 

Method.     Melt    half  the  butter  in  a  shallow  stcwpan  or  saut- 
fry    the    «»:  ,,ly   on    U»th    sidex  then    add    the 

Stock  (boiling   ,  the  Ixniquet-garni.  salt  ai; 

,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  for  5  minutes,     \V1, 
vc  it  out  on  to  a  hot  dish  and  keep  it  warm.     Strain  t  In- 
stock  on  to  the  flour  and  butter,  and  stir  until  it  boils.     Simm 
5  minutes,  add  the  cream,  cheese,  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  pour 
the  mixture  over  the  fish,  and  i 

Time. — About  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,   from    is.   3d.   to   is.   oxl. 
.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  from  April  to  August. 

600.— SALMON,  FRIED.  (Fr— Saumon  Frit.)   (Jewish 
Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  salmon,  a  small  flask  of  ol 
Method.     Pour  the  oil  into  a  small   but  deep  pan,  set  over  a  clear 
it   ceases   to  bubble,  put    in   the  salmon,   ; 

•.;er,tlv  until  it  is  . 
1  through.    It  bhould  i>e  only  a  golden  brown,  and  when  the  > 


370         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

has  acquired  this  colour,  the  pan  should  be  placed  where  the  fish  will 
cook  slowly,  so  as  to  prevent  it  becoming  darker.  When  thoroughly 
done,  drain  and  leave  it  to  get  cold,  and  serve  it  upon  a  fish  paper, 
garnished  with  parsley. 

Time. — About  £  hour  to  cook  the  fish.  Average  Cost,  23.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  August. 

THE  SALMON  (Ft.  saumon)  is  the  type  of  the  family  Salmonida,  which  forms  the  first  sub-order, 
the  Malacopteri  of  the  third  order  of  fishes,  the  Teleostei,  or  fish  possessing  a  bony  skeleton,  and  having 
the  skull  composed  of  distinct  bones.  The  ventral  fins  are  abdominal,  the  second  dorsal  fin  is  soft 
and  without  rays,  and  the  swim-bladder  is  developed.  The  head  of  the  salmon  is  smooth  ;  its  teeth 
are  placed  in  the  upper  and  lower  jaws,  palate,  and  roof  of  the  mouth  ;  the  edges  of  the  tongue  are 
notched.  The  colour  of  the  salmon  is  steel-blue  on  the  head  and  back,  and  silver-white  on  its  lower 
parts.  The  salmon  lives  in  both  salt  and  fresh-water,  and  is  found  distributed  over  the  north  of 
Europe  and  Asia,  and  in  the  great  rivers  of  North  America.  It  spawns  in  the  late  autumn  or  the 
beginning  of  winter,  and  ascends  the  rivers,  often  to  a  great  distance,  for  that  purpose.  The  spawn 
is  deposited  in  a  shallow  groove  in  the  sand  or  gravel,  and  covered  over  by  the  action  of  the  tail  and 
fins  of  the  fish.  Salmon  after  spawning  are  known  as  kelts.  The  young  are  hatched  about  March, 
and  pass  through  three  stages  before  attaining  full  maturity.  When  first  hatched  the  young  are 
called  parr,  and  remain  under  that  designation  some  fifteen  months  to  two  years,  living  in  the  shallows 
of  their  native  stream.  The  second  stage  is  that  of  the  smolt,  or  salmon-fry,  when  the  fins  become 
darker  and  the  body  more  silvery,  and  the  young  fish  in  shoals  migrate  to  the  sea.  On  returning  from 
the  sea,  where  it  has  rapidly  increased  in  growth,  to  the  rivers,  it  is  known  as  the  grilse,  or  salmon- 
peel,  and  weighs  on  the  average  from  4  Ib.  to  6  Ib.  The  grilse  on  its  return  to  the  rivers  spawns  for 
the  first  time.  Again  going  back  to  the  sea  the  grilse  gradually  increases  in  size,  and  becomes  the 
salmon.  The  salmon  is  the  finest  of  food  fishes,  characterized  by  its  orange-coloured  flesh,  and  is 
called  by  Isaac  Walton  the  "  King  of  fresh-water  fish."  It  is  esteemed  of  so  much  importance,  that 
special  Acts  of  Parliament  have  been  passed  to  regulate  the  salmon  fishery  and  preserve  the  fish. 
A  close-time  for  salmon  fishing  in  England  and  Wales,  including  also  the  Esk  in  Dumfries,  is  fixed  for 
nets  from  September  i  to  February  i,  and  for  rods  from  November  2  to  February  i.  In  Scotland  it 
is  for  nets  from  August  27  to  February  10,  for  rods,  from  November  i  to  February  10,  with  certain 
local  exceptions.  In  Ireland  there  are  many  variations  of  the  close-time,  but  the  netting  close-time 
must  not  be  less  than  168  days.  It  is  illegal  to  sell  fresh  salmon  between  September  3  and  February  i, 
except  salmon  imported  from  foreign  countries.  There  are  also  special  penalties  for  capturing  or 
selling  "  unclean  "  salmon,  i.e.,  salmon  recently  spawned  or  full  of  spawn.  The  salmon  is  caught 
by  the  rod  or  by  specially  constructed  nets.  The  principal  salmon  fisheries  in  England  and  Scotland 
are  those  of  the  Tweed,  North  Esk,  Dee,  Tay,  Severn,  Avon  and  Spey.  Salmon  is  very  abundant 
in  the  rivers  of  North  America,  and  large  quantities  of  tinned  salmon  are  exported  thence  to  Great 
Britain. 

60 1. —SALMON  WITH  GENEVESE  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Saumon  Sauce  Genevoise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  slices  of  salmon,  £  a  pint  of  good  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of 
Madeira  or  other  white  wine,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  dessert- 
spoonful each  of  chopped-onion  and  parsley,  i  carrot  sliced,  a  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  a  blade  of  mace,  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy-essence,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  and  fry  the  onion  until 
slightly  browned,  add  the  stock,  wine,  parsley,  carrot,  bouquet-garni, 
mace,  anchovy-essence  and  seasoning,  and  boil  gently  for  30  minutes, 
then  strain,  and  return  to  the  stewpan.  Bring  the  sauce  to  boiling 
point,  put  in  the  slices  of  fish,  and  let  them  simmer  gently  about 
20  minutes,  or  until  the  fish  separates  easily  from  the  bone.  Mean- 
while melt  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter  in  another  stewpan,  add  to  it 
the  flour,  stir  and  cook  over  the  fire  for  4  or  5  minutes.  When  the 
fish  is  done,  remove  it  carefully  to  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  liquor  on  to  the 
butter  and  flour,  stir  until  smooth,  then  simmer  for  5  or  6  minutes. 
Add  the  lemon-juice  to  the  sauce,  season  to  taste,  strain  over  the  fish, 
and  serve. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  371 

Time.— From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  to  35.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  August. 

602.— SALMON  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee  de  Saumon.) 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  salmon,  i  pint  of  clear  stock,  i  oz.  of  French 
gelatine,  2  whites  of  eggs. 

Method. — Dissolve   the  gelatine  in   the  stock  and  season   to  taste. 

Cook  the  whites  of  eggs  in  a  dariol  mould  or  small  cup  until  firm,  and 

cold  cut  into  thin  slices  and  stamp  out  into  fancy  shapes.     Drain 

the  oil  from  the  salmon,  and  remove  all  skin  and  bones.     Cover  the 

bottom  of  a  mould  with  jelly,  let  it  set,  and  then  decorate  with  white 

of  egg.     Set  the  garnish  with  a  little  jelly,  add  a  layer  of  salmon,  cover 

with  jelly,  and  put  aside  until  set.     Repeat  until  the  mould  is  full. 

on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted,  then  turn  out,  and  st . 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.,  in  addition  • 

603.— SALMON,   MAYONNAISE   OF.       (Fr.— Saumon 
en  Mayonnaise.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  boiled  salmon,  lettuce,  cucumber,  beetroot,  gher- 
kins, capers,  boned  anchovies,  hard-boiled  eggs,  Mayonnaise  sauce 

:oi). 

Method. — A  Mayonnaise  of  salmon  may  consist  of  a  large  centre-cut, 
a  thick  slice,  or  the  remains  of  cold  salmon  cut  into  pieces  conv 
for  serving.  In  all  cases  the  skin  and  bone  must  be  removed,  and  the 
fish  completely  masked  with  thick  Mayonnaise  sauce,  the  stiffening 
properties  of  which  are  greatly  increased  by  the  addition  of  a  little 
liquid,  but  nearly  cold,  aspic  jell  a  procurable,  a  little  endive 

should  be  mixed  with  the  lettuce,  for  although  the  somewhat  bitter 
flavour  of  this  salad  plant  is  disliked  by  many  people,  its  delicate, 
ry  leaves  greatly  improve  the  appearance  of  any  dish  of  which  it 
a  part.     Many  other  garnishings,  in  addition  to  those  enumerated 
above,  may  be  used  ;  the  leaves  of  the  tarragon  and  chervil  plants,  and 
fancifully-cut   thin  slices  of  truffle,  being  particularly  effective  when 
used  to  decorate  the  surface  of  Mayonnaise  sauce  (set  Lobster  Mayon- 

>.  201   ). 
Average  Cost.— Salmon,  is.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  per  Ib. 

604.— SALMON  MOULDED  IN  JELLY. 

Ingredients — 1$  Ib.  of  cooked  salmon,  i  pint  of  clear  stock,  i  oz.  of 

i  gelatine,   i  white  of  egg,  i   tablespoonful  of  sherry  or  I 
i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  stock  for  |  an  hour,  then  stir 

thr  mixture  over  the  fire  until  dissolved,  and  draw  it  aside  to  cool 

-k  the  white  of  egg  with  the  sherry  or  d  the 

ir,  and    add  it   to  the  stock  when  considerably  below  boiling 


372         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

point.  Whisk  briskly  until  boiling,  let  the  preparation  stand  undis- 
turbed for  10  minutes,  then  strain  through  a  jelly  bag,  and  when  quite 
cold  and  on  the  point  of  setting,  pour  a  little  into  a  mould.  Divide  the 
salmon  into  large  flakes,  and  as  soon  as  the  jelly  in  the  mould  hardens, 
cover  lightly  with  pieces  of  salmon.  Add  a  layer  of  jelly,  let  it  set, 
and  cover  with  salmon,  repeating  the  process  until  the  mould  is  full. 
Keep  on  ice  until  ready  to  serve. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33.,  exclusive  of  the 
stock. 

605.— SALMON,  PAUPIETTES  OF,  REGENCE  STYLE. 
(Fr. — Paupiettes  de  Saumon  a  la  Regence.) 

Ingredients. — About  2^  Ib.  of  salmon  (jowl),  i  large  whiting,  3  ozs. 
of  panada,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of 
Bechamel  sauce,  seasoning,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
preserved  mushroom  heads  for  garnish,  Regence  sauce  (No.  270). 

Method. — Remove  the  fillets  of  salmon  from  the  bone,  cut  off  the  skin, 
divide  each  fillet  in  half  lengthwise,  and  cut  them  into  rather  thin  long 
slices  of  even  size,  trimming  them  neatly.  Skin  and  bone  the  whiting, 
pound  it  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  add  the  panada,  mix  well,  then 
add  the  egg  yolks,  about  i  oz.  of  butter,  the  Bechamel  sauce, 
and  the  chopped  parsley.  Season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  cayenne 
and  nutmeg,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Spread  each  slice  of  salmon 
with  a  layer  of  this  farce  or  forcemeat,  roll  up  into  paupiette  shapes, 
and  tie  each  with  string  or  skewer  them  together  in  twos  or  threes. 
Place  them  in  a  saute-pan  containing  i  oz.  of  melted  butter,  divide 
the  remainder  of  the  butter  into  little  bits,  placing  these  on  the  top 
of  the  paupiettes,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  cook  in  a  moderate 
oven  from  20  to  25  minutes,  basting  frequently.  When  done,  take  up, 
remove  the  skewers  or  string,  and  dress  the  paupiettes  on  a  hot  dish. 
Have  the  Regence  sauce  nicely  heated,  add  the  mushroom  heads, 
allowing  i  large  head  for  each  paupiette  ;  place  the  mushrooms  on  the 
paupiettes,  sauce  over  carefully,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  53.  to  6s. 
Sufficient  for  10  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  August. 

606.— SALMON,  PICKLED.     (Fr.— Saumon  Marine.) 

Ingredients. — Salmon,  -£  an  oz.  of  whole  pepper,  £  an  oz.  of  whole  all- 
spice, i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  2  bay-leaves,  equal  quantities  of  vinegar 
and  the  liquor  in  which  the  fish  was  boiled. 

Method. — After  the  fish  comes  from  table,  and  the  bones  have  been 
removed  lay  it  in  a  clean  deep  dish.  Boil  the  liquor  and  vinegar 
with  the  other  ingredients  for  10  minutes,  let  them  stand  to  get  cold, 
then  pour  them  over  the  salmon,  and  in  12  hours  it  will  be  ready  for 
use 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    FISH 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  2S.  6d.  per  Ib.  Season- 
able trom  April  to  August. 

607.— SALMON,  POTTED.    (Fr—  Terrine  de  Saumon.) 

Ingredients. — Cold   salmon,   clarified   butter,   anchovy-essence,    pow- 

d  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Free  the  fish  from  skin  and  bone,  then  pound  it  thoroughly 
in  a  mortar.  Add  by  degrees  the  seasoning,  and  the  anchovy-essence 
and  clarified  butter  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  until  the  right  consistency 
and  flavour  is  obtained,  then  rub  the  ingredients  through  a  fine  sieve, 
press  into  small  pots,  and  cover  with  a  good  layer  of  clarified  butter. 

:ion  may  also  be  potted  (see  Potted  Lobster,  No.  540). 
Average  Cost. — Salmon,  from  is.  6d.  to  2s.  6d.  per  Ib 

608.— SALMON,   SMOKED   OR   KIPPERED. 

Ingredients. — Salmon,  equal  quantities  of  common  salt  and  J.t: 
pepper  mixed  together,  also  a  mixture  composed  oi  i  11. .  3  ozs. 

of  coarse  sugar,  i  oz.  of  saltj 

Method.— Scale  the  fish,  split  it  down  the  back,  remove  the  head 
and  all  the  backbone  except  3  inches  at  the  tail.     Clean  and  <1: 
thoroughly,  then  rub  well  with 

4  hours.     Drain  well,  rub  the  fish  2  or  3 

the  mixture  of  salt,  sugar  and  saltpetre,  let  it  stand  for  2  day.- 
:ub  it   again  with  the  mixture.  -.-tch  the  fish  on  Si 

hang  it  by  the  tail,  exposed  to  the  rays  of  the  sun  or  of  the  fire, 

for  3  or  j  ards  suspend  it  in  the  <»f  a  wood 

or  turf  fire  until  dry — usually  froi  Sometimes  salt  and 

Jamaica  pepper  alone  arc  used,  but  the  proo  the  same. 

•cculiar  flavour  possessed  1  to  juniper 

s  being  used  as  fuel  instead  of  wood  or  turf. 

609.     SALMON,  SMOKED  TO  COOK.    (Fr,-Saumon 
Fume) 

Ingredients. — Smoked  - 

Method.     C 'ut   the  fish  into  small  thin  slices,  brush  them  over  with 
nd  enclose  them  in  oi  <  inll   the  *lurs  . 

7  or  8  minutes,  turning  them  2  or  3  times  during 
•cess.    Serve  wi  t  h  oiled  butter,  or  any  fish  sauce  that  m.i 
Time.— 7  or  8  minutes.     Average   Coal,  33.   6d.  per  Ib.    for  smoked 
on. 

6io.-SALMON   SMOKED,  DEVILLED.       (Fr.— Sau- 
mon fume  a  la  Diable 

Ingredients.— Smoked    salmon,    wheat    triscuits,    salad-oil,    dr 
butt 


374  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Cut  the  triscuits  across  in  halves,  soak  them  for  3  or  4 
minutes  in  salad-oil,  then  drain  well,  and  sprinkle  liberally  with  salt, 
pepper  and  cayenne.  Toast  the  triscuits  on  both  sides,  cover  them 
with  thin  slices  of  smoked  salmon,  and  add  a  layer  of  devilled  butter. 
Place  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  for  smoked  salmon,  33.  6d. 
perlb. 

61 1.— SALMON  STEAKS.    (Fr.—  Tranche  de  Saumon.) 

These  may  be  enclosed  in  an  oiled  or  buttered  paper,  and  eithcr 
grilled  or  fried  in  hot  butter  in  a  saute-pan.  Or  they  may  be  coated 
with  egg  and  breadbcrumbs  and  fried.  Serve  with  sliced  cucumber 
and  a  suitable  sauce. 

6 1 2.— SALMON,    TIME  ALES   OF.     (Fr.— Petites  tim- 
bales  de  Saumon.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  cooked  salmon,  £  a  [pint  of  Mayon- 
naise sauce,  stiffened  with  £  of  a  gill  of  well-reduced  aspic,  i  gill  of 
plain  aspic  jelly  for  lining,  tarragon  and  chervil  leaves,  i  large  truffle, 
ice. 

Method. — Line  6  to  8  small  oblong  or  square  moulds  (timbale  or 
zephire  [oval]  shape)  with  dissolved  aspic  jelly,  decorate  with  the  herb 
leaves  and  truffle,  and,  when  set,  coat  with  a  layer  of  prepared  Mayon- 
naise. Flake  the  fish,  season  with  Mayonnaise,  and  add  the  remainder 
of  the  truffles,  chopped  coarsely.  Fill  up  the  moulds  3  parts  full  with 
dressed  salmon,  finish  filling  with  some  Mayonnaise  and  aspic.  Put 
the  moulds  to  set  upon  the  ice,  turn  out,  dish  up,  garnish  with  small 
green  salad  and  chopped  aspic,  then  serve. 

Time. — £  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time, 

613.— SALT  FISH  WITH  CREAM.      (Fr.— Morue  a  la 
Creme.) 

Ingredients.— 3  or  4lb.of  salt  cod-fish  of  average  size,  i  pint  of  water, 
i  pint  of  milk,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  fish  into  very  small  fillets,  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  water  and  milk,  and  simmer  for  £  an  hour.  Knead 
the  flour  and  butter  to  a  smooth  paste,  put  it  into  the  saucepan  in  very 
small  pieces,  and  simmer  for  about  10  minutes,  or  until  the  liaison  (or 
thickening)  of  butter  and  flour  becomes  smoothly  mixed  with  the  liquid. 
Add  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  sauce,  3^d.;  cod  from  4d.  to  is 
per  Ib,  Sufficient  for  S  or  10  persons,  Seasonable  during  Lent, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  375 

614.— SALT  FISH  AND  PARSNIPS.     (Fr.— Morue  aux 
Panais.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  salt  cod,  12  young  parsnips,  egg  sauce.  No. 
297. 

Method. — Wash  the  fish,  and  soak  it  in  cold  water  for  12  hours,  or 
longer  if  very  salt,  changing  the  water  every  3  or  4  hours.  Cover  the 

i  with  cold  water,  and  bring  slowly  to  simmering  point,  then  draw 
to  the  side  of  the  stove  and  cook  very  gently  for  20  minutes,  or  until 
the  fish  leaves  the  bones.  Meanwhile  prepare  the  sauce  according  to 
the  directions  given.  Boil  the  parsnips,  if  small  cut  them  lengthwise 
into  2,  or,  if  large  into  4  pieces.  Drain  the  fish  well,  then  place  it  on 
a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  with  the  parsnips. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  cod,  4d.  to  is.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient,  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  during  Lent. 

615.— SCALLOPS    OF    FISH.          (Fr.— Escalopes    de 
Poisson  au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  cold  fish  of  any  kind,  to  each  |  Ib.  of 
which  allow  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  a  pint  of  milk,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  anchovy-essence,  i  teaspoonful  of  walnut  ketchup,  |  a 
spoonful  of  made  mustard,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne,  bread 
cm: 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  for 
3  or  4  minutes,  then  pour  in  the  milk,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  let  it  simmer 
slowly  for  10  minutes.  Meanwhile  separate  the  fish  into  large  flakes, 
and  when  the  sauce  is  ready  put  them  into  the  stewpan  with  the  an- 
chovy-essence, ketchup,  mustard,  and  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper,  and  a  small  pinch  of  cayenne.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  mix- 
ture is  thoroughly  hot,  then  fill  the  scallop-shells  (previously  well- 
buttered),  cover  lightly  with  breadcrumbs,  place  on  the  top  of  each 
ill  pieces  of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  nicely  browned, 
or  brown  the  surface  with  a  hot  salamander. 

Time. — £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.   6d. 

616.— SCALLOPS,  FRIED.      (Fr.— Potencies  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — 18  scallops,  i  egg,  ±  oz.  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  gill  of 
milk,  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne,  frying-fat,  parsley. 

Method.— Drain  the  scallops  on  a  cloth.     Sift  the  flour  into  a 
add  a  pinch  of  salt.     Melt  the  butter,  beat  up  the  egg,  stir  both  into 

flour,  add  the  milk,  and  work  until  quite  smooth.     If  too  tl 
a  little  more  melted  butter  or  milk  may  be  added.     Let  the  batter 
:\  hour,  then  stir  in  a  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
Season  the  scallops  with  a  lir  a  good  pinch  of  white  pepper, 


376         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  a  small  pinch  of  cayenne.  Dip  them  into  the  batter,  drop  them 
one  by  one  into  hot  fat,  fry  to  a  golden-brown,  drain  on  a  cloth,  pile 
up  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  lobster 
or  tomato  sauce  (No  281) 

Time. — To  fry,  from  5  to  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  8  or  9  persons.  Seasonable  from  January  to  June. 

THE  SCALLOP  (Fr.  petoncle)  is  allied  to  the  oyster,  and  is  highly  esteemed  for  the  table.  The  shells 
of  the  scallop  were  worn  in  their  hats  by  pilgrims  in  the  Middle  Ages,  to  show  that  they  had  made  a 
pilgrimage  to  the  Holy  Land. 

617.— SCALLOPS   AND     MUSHROOMS.       (Fr.—  Pet- 
oncles  aux  Champignons.) 

Ingredients. — 6  scallops,  6  large  flap  mushrooms,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  scallops  from  their  shells,  and  wash  well  in  cold 
water.  Put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  just  sufficient  milk  to  cover, 
add  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  simmer  gently  for  about  50  minutes. 
Drain  well,  chop  the  yellow  and  white  parts  separately,  moisten  with 
a  little  white  sauce,  and  season  to  taste.  While  the  scallops  are  cook- 
ing remove  the  stalks  of  the  mushrooms,  peel  them  and  fry  them  in  hot 
butter.  Place  an  equal  portion  of  the  white  part  of  the  scallops  on 
each  mushroom,  pile  the  red  part  on  the  top,  make  thoroughly  hot 
in  the  oven,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  January  to  June. 

618.— SCALLOPS,  SCALLOPED.       (Fr.— Petoncles  en 
coquilles.) 

Ingredients. — 12  scallops,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
breadcrumbs,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  drain  the  scallops,  chop  them  finely,  and  mix  with 
them  an  equal  quantity  of  breadcrumbs.  Season  liberally  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  add  the  parsley.  Wash  and  dry  the  deeper  shells, 
butter  them  thickly,  and  sprinkle  lightly  with  breadcrumbs.  Fill  the 
shells  with  the  preparation,  cover  the  surface  lightly  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  add  two  or  three  bits  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  until  well-browned,  and  serve  in  the  shells. 

Time. — 30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  shells.  Seasonable  from  January  to  June. 

619,    SCALLOPS    IN    SHELLS.      (Fr.— Petoncles  en 

coquilles.) 
Ingredients. — 1£  dozen  of  scallops,  a  cupful  of  breadcrumbs,   i   oz. 


FISH. 


\ 


& 


FISH  ENTREES. 


i.  Cold  Border  of  Salmon.         2.  Mayonnaise  Fioh.         3.  Timbale  of  Turbot. 
30 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    FISH  377 

of  butter,  i  t;ill  white  sauce,  cayenne,  and  salt,  a  little  chopped  parsley, 
and  a  squeeze  of  lemon. 

Method. — Trim  the  scallops  by  cut  ting  off  the  beards  and  black  parts, 

ie  6  shells,  butter  them,  and  strew  in  a  few  bread  crumbs.    Put  3 

:>s  in  each,  season  them  with  the  cayenne  and  chopped  parsley, 

and  a  drop  or  two  of  lemon-juice.     Put  a  little  pepper  and  salt  with 

the    breadcrumbs,     cover    the    scallops  with    white    sauce,    sprinkle 

with   breadcrumbs,    place  little  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top.  and  bake 

for  about  20  minutes. 

Time.— 20    minutes.     Average    Cost,     is.  6d.  to  2S.      Sufficient  for  6 
Seasonable  from   January  to  June. 

620.— SCALLOPS,     STEWED.         (Fr.  -  -  Ragout     de 
petoncles.) 

Ingredients. — 12  scallops,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  lemon-juice  or 
vinegar,  salt   and 

Method. — Open  the  shells  hke  an  oyster,  remove  the  scallops,  and  trim 
1  and  Mack  parts.     \\\^ii  well  in  j  or  3  waters,  then 
them  with  warm  w.itcr,  and  boil  gently  from  50  to  60  minutes. 
Meanwhile  knead   the  flour  and  butter  well  together,  mix   in  .1  little 
salt  and  popper,  separate  into  small  pieces,  and  add  them  to  the  con- 
of  the  stcwjun  20  minutes  before  serving.     \Vh<  place 

the  scallops  on  a  hot  di  uicc  to  ta 

juice  or  vineg  i 

Time.  —  About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  js.     Sufficient  for  4  per- 
Seasonable  from  January  to  Jim--. 

621.— SCALLOPS    IN  WHITE    WINE    SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Petoncles  au  Vin  Blanc.) 

Ingredients.— 18  scallops,  milk,  butter,  i  small  onion,  i  clove.   |  bay 

white  s.u. 

Method.     Wash  the  scallops,  or  escallops,  as  these  shell-fish 
r.-ill.-d  l.solutely  necessary,  as  th- 

Put   the  scallops  in  a  stewpan.  with  sut'i 
milk  . 
with  a  dove,  also  |  a  bay-leaf  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  boil  for  15  nu: 

•,iin,  an«l    fmi*h   conkini;   in  white  sauce,  an  <  <c  of 

utter  or  ixxMiful  of  cream  being  added  at   the   tr 

ich  of  cayenne  and  a  grate  of  nutmeg  is 
reconr 

Time.-  I  an  hour.     Average  Cost  Sufficient  for  8  or 

Seasonable  from  January  ; 


378  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

622.— SEA-BREAM,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Breme  de  Mer 
rotie,  au  four.) 

Ingredients. — i  bream,  seasoning  to  taste  of  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne, 
£  of  a  Ib.  of  butter. 

Method. — Well  wash  the  bream,  but  do  not  remove  the  scales,  and 
wipe  away  all  moisture  with  a  dry  cloth.  Season  it  inside  and  out 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne,  and  lay  it  in  a  baking-dish.  Place  the 
butter,  in  small  pieces,  upon  the  fish,  and  bake  for  rather  more  than 
30  minutes.  It  will  be  found  a  great  improvement  to  stuff  the  fish 
before  baking. 

Time. — Rather  more  than  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  in  summer,  but  may  be  procured  all  the  year  round. 

Note, — This  fish  may  be  broiled  over  a  nice  clear  fire,  and  served  with  a 
good  brown  gravy  or  white  sauce,  or  it  may  be  stewed  in  wine. 

THE  SEA-BREAM  (Fr.  breme  de  mer). — A  popular  name  given  to  fish  of  the  genus  Brama — the  true 
bream,  a  fresh-water  fish,  belongs  to  the  carp  family.  The  sea-bream  is  abundant  round  the  coast 
of  Cornwall.  It  is  not  held  in  very  high  estimation. 

MR.  YARRELL'S  RECIPE. — "  When  thoroughly  cleansed  the  fish  should  be  wiped  dry,  but  none  of 
the  scales  should  be  taken  off.  In  this  state  it  should  be  broiled,  turning  it  often,  and  if  the  skin 
cracks,  flour  it  a  little  to  keep  the  outer  case  entire.  When  on  table,  the  whole  skin  and  scales  turn 
off  without  difficulty,  and  the  muscle  beneath  saturated  in  its  own  natural  juices  which  the  outside 
covering  has  retained,  will  be  of  good  flavour." 

623.— SHAD,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Alose  roti,  au  four.) 

Ingredients. — i  shad,  2  or  3  slices  of  bacon,  3  or  4  ozs.  of  veal  forcemeat 
(see  Forcemeats). 

Method. — Wash,  clean,  scale,  and  dry  the  fish.  Make  the  forcemeat 
as  directed,  put  it  inside  the  fish,  and  sew  up  the  opening.  Place  the 
fish  in  a  baking-dish  or  tin,  lay  the  slices  of  bacon  on  the  top  of  it, 
and  bake  gently  from  £  to  i  hour.  Serve  with  a  suitable  fish  sauce, 
or  a  tureen  of  good  beef  gravy. 

Time. — About  i£  hours,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  June. 

624.— SHAD,  BOILED,  WITH  DUTCH  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Alose  a  la  Hollandaise.) 

Ingredients. — Shad,  salt  and  water,  Hollandaise  sauce  (No.  304). 

Method. — Clean  the  fish,  but  do  not  scale  it,  boil  in  salt  and  water, 
and  serve  garnished  with  fresh  parsley  and  cut  lemon.  Send  a  boat 
of  the  sauce  to  table  with  the  fish. 

Time. — From  30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost.  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  8  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  June. 

625.— SHAD,  BROILED.      (Fr.— Alose  Grille.) 

Ingredients. — i  shad,  oil,  pepper  and  salt. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING    FISH  379 

Method. — Scale,  empty  and  wash  the  fish  carefully,  and  make  2 
or  3  incisions  across  the  back.  Season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
let  it  remain  in  oil  for  30  minutes.  Broil  it  on  both  sides  over  a  clear 
fire,  and  serve  with  caper  sauce.  The  fish  is  much  esteemed  by  the 
French. 

Time. — Nearly  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  6d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
from  April  to  June. 

THE  SHAD  (Fr.  ahse)  —The  two  best  known  species  of  the  shad,  which  belongs  to  the  herring 

family,  are  the  common  or  Alike  shad,  and  the  Twaite  shad.     The  shad  is  a  salt-water  fish,  frequent- 

v.otiths  of  large  riven,  which  it  ascends  in  the  spawning  season.     In  shape  it  resembles  the 

of  a  larger  size  and  is  called  in  Scotland  the  "  herring  king."      Its  colour  is  dark  blue, 

ts  of  brown  and  green,  and  white  beneath.    The  Allice  shad  abounds  in  the  Severn.     The 

Twaite  shad  is  smaller  than  the  Allice,  and  is  common  in  the  Thames. 

626.— SHAD,  BROILED.     (Fr— Alose  grille.) 

Ingredients. — i  shad  weighing  about  2  Ib.,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  salad- 
oil,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  i  tcaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  sorrel,  caper  or  piquant  sauce. 

Method. — Wii^h,  empty  and  thoroughly  dry  the  fish,  place  it  in  a  deep 

dish,  and  add  the  salad-oil,  onion,  parsley  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt 

and  pepper.     Baste  frequently,  let   the  fish  remain  in  the  marinade 

hours,  then  drain  and  dry  it  well.     Broil  over  a  clear;  fire  for 

about  |  an  hour,  according  to  size,  turn  the  fish  frequently,  and  brush 

•ccasionally  with  some  of  the  oil  in  which  the  fish  was  soaked. 

the  sauce  separately  in  a  tu: 

Time. — To  broil,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2S.  Sum- 
dent  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to  September. 

627.— SHAD,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Alose  frit.) 

Ingredients. —  i  medium-sized  shad,  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  egg  and 
rumbs,  fry  ing-fat,  anchovy,  tomato  or  piquant  sauce. 

Method.— \Vush  and  scale  the  fish,  separate  it  from  the  backbone, 
and  divide  into  neat  fillets.  Add  a  little  salt  and  pepper  to  i  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour,  dip  the  fillets  in  the  mixture,  and  afterwards  coat  the 
fillets  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan 
of  hot  fat,  fry  the  fish  until  lightly  browned,  then  drain  well.  ("... 
with  l  v,  and  the  roe,  \  .  fried.  Serve  the 

lv  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — To  fry,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to  September. 

628.— SHRIMPS,  POTTED.         (Fr.— Tcrrinc   de   Cre- 

vettes.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  shelled  shrimps,  $  of  a  Ib.  of  fresh  butter,  i 
•f  pounded  mace,  cayenne  to  taste,  and,  if  liked,  a  little  nutmeg. 


380  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Have  ready  i  pint  of  picked  shrimps,  put  them,  with 
the  other  ingredients,  into  a  stewpan,  let  them  heat  gradually  in  the 
butter,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Pour  into  small  pots,  and,  when  cold, 
cover  with  melted  butter,  and  carefully  exclude  the  air. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour,  to  soak  in  the  butter.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 

THE  SHRIMP  (Fr.  crevette).— This  familiar  crustacean,  belonging  to  the  order  Decapoda,  or  ten- 
footed  Crustacea,  is  allied  to  the  lobsters  and  crawfishes.  It  inhabits  the  sandy  shores  of  the  coasts 
of  Britain  and  Ireland,  and  is  captured  in  nets,  which  are  pushed  before  the  shrimpers  through  the 
sand.  In  colour  it  resembles  the  sand  in  which  it  lives,  and  is  semi-transparent,  but  after  being  boiled 
it  becomes  opaque,  and  changes  to  the  well-known  brown  hue.  The  red  variety  lives  in  deeper  water, 
and  is  caught  chiefly  on  the  east  and  south  coasts  of  England.  Its  colour  before  boiling  is  reddish- 
grey.  The  bulk  of  the  London  supply  of  shrimps  comes  from  Holland  from  January  to  the  end  of 
June  ;  but  the  Dutch  are  inferior  in  quality  to  the  English  shrimps,  which  are  abundant  from  July 
to  the  end  of  the  year. 

629.— SHRIMPS  AND  PRAWNS,  TO  SHELL. 

There  is  a  slight  difference  in  the  shape  of  shrimps  and  prawns, 
the  tail  of  the  former  being  rounded  at  the  bend,  like  that  of  a  lobster, 
but  the  tail  of  the  prawn  presents  a.  sort  of  knee  or  angle.  To  shell  a 
shrimp,  take  the  head  between  the  right  thumb  and  forefinger,  and  with 
the  left  forefinger  and  thumb-nail  raise  on  each  side  the  shell  of  the 
tail,  pinch  the  tail,  and  the  shell  will  at  once  separate.  To  shell  prawns, 
take  the -head  between  the  right  hand  thumb  and  second  finger,  take 
the  tip  of  the  tail  between  the  left  thumb  and  forefinger;  with  the  nail 
of  the  right  forefinger  raise  the  shell  at  the  knee  or  angle,  pinch  the  tail, 
and  the  shell  will  come  apart,  leaving  the  prawn  attached  to  the  head. 

630.— SKATE,  BOILED.     (Fr.— Raie  au  Naturel.) 

Ingredients. — i  skate,  salt. 

Method. — Clean  and  skin  the  skate,  put  it  into  a  fish-kettle  containing 
sufficient  salted  warm  water  to  just  cover  it,  and  simmer  gently  for 
about  30  minutes,  or  until  the  fish  separates  readily  from  the  bone. 
Drain  well,  dish  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  serve  with  shrimp,  lobster 
or  caper  sauce. 

Time. — From  30  to  50  minutes,  according  to  size.  Average  Cost,  from 
4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  from  August  to  April. 

To  CHOOSE  SKATE. — This  fish  should  be  chosen  for  its  firmness,  breadth  and  thickness,  and 
should  have  a  creamy  appearance.  It  should  not  be  kept  longer  than  a  day  or  two. 

THE  SKATE  (Fr.  rate),  a  member  of  the  Ray  family,  is  rhomboidal  in  shape,  and  has  a  cartilaginous 
skeleton.  The  body  is  much  depressed  ;  the  teeth  are  flat,  and  form  a  mosaic-like  pattern  in  the 
mouth  ;  the  tail  is  long  and  slender  and  heterocercal,  having  the  upper  lobe  longer  than  the  lower ; 
the  mouth  is  pointed  with  a  prominent  ridge.  The  THORNBACK  differs  from  the  common  skate  by 
having  spines  on  the  upper  surface  of  the  tail.  It  is  inferior  in  quality  to  the  true  skate,  The  flesh 
of  the  skate  is  white,  palatable,  and  easily  digested.  It  is  improved  by  crimping,  and  is  usually  sold 
in  that  form. 

631.— SKATE    WITH     BROWN     BUTTER. 

(Fr. — Raie  au  beurre-noir.) 

Proceed  as  directed  in  the  foregoing  recipe,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish 


RECIPES    FOR    «'OKING    FIHl  381 

without  the    napkin.     Meanwhile  heat  an   oz.    of    fresh   butter  until 
it   t  :mt -brown  in  colour,  then    add    a  tca>p  >onfiil  oi  vinegar 

aii'l  a    little  choppc-!  ,       Pour  this  hot  over  the  fish,  garnish 

with  sprigs  oi    p,n>lry  an-1  .serve. 

632.— SKATE    WITH    CAPER    SAUCE.     (Fr.— Raie, 
Sauce  aux  Capres.) 

Ingredients.  --2  or  3  slices  of  skate,  |  a  pint  of  vinegar,  2  ozs.  ot 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  i   sliced  onion,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley, 
2  bay-leaves,   2  or  3  sprigs  of  thyme,  sufficient  warm  water  to  e« 
ice  (No.  i 

Method.     Put  all  the  ibovi  LngrecUfl  :ish-kettl-  -.miner 

tin-  skate  in  them  until  tender.      W 

:  pour  ove  <>f  the  liquor  in  which  it  ha  -in  well, 

put  it  on  a  hot  ili^h.  i  it   a  little  caper  sauce,  a;  the 

in  a  tu; 

Time.     ]  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  js.     Sufficient  for  4  p.  season- 

able from  August   to  April. 

Iso  be  served  with  <mi<>n  -.»n. .-  or  parsley  and  b\ 

633.     SKATE,  SMALL,  FRIED.    (/•>.— Rait ons  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — Skat-  r  to  cover  tin 

'[(  ed  onion,  a  small  bunch  of  : 
' 

Method.— Cleanse   the  skate,  lay   tlu-m   in   a  thslj,   with   vinegar  to 

i  • 

flour  them  or  cover  them  with  etjL;  umbs,  and  fry  in  hot 

ly  browned.  :i  or  without 

not  good  if  dressed  too  fresh,  unless  it   is  crimped, 
and   it  should,  therefore,  be  kept  for  a  <! 

Time.— IQ  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from  41!.  per  Ib.     Seasonable 
ril. 

634.— SMELTS,  TO  BAKE.    (Fr.— Eperlans  au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients.     ;  ulcrumbs,  2  ozs.  of  fr< 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  tl.  m  a  *l"th.  and  arrange 

in  a  flat  baking-dish.     C'mvr  them  with  t.  lorumbs, 

em  little  pieces  of  butter.     Season  and  bake  for  15 

Just  before  serving,  add  a  squ<  ,  and  garnish 

with  f: 

Time.  .     Average  Cost,  from   :  .  per  dozen.     Suffi- 

cient f<»r  4  persons.     Seasonable  from  October  to  May. 


382  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

635.— SMELTS,  TO  FRY.     (Fr.— Eperlans  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — Smelts,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  a  little  flour,  boiling  fat 
or  oil. 

Method. — Smelts  should  be  very  fresh,  and  not  washed  more  than  is 
necessary  to  cleanse  them.  Dry  them  in  a  cloth,  flour  lightly,  dip  them 
in  egg,  cover  with  very  fine  breadcrumbs,  and  put  them  into  boiling 
fat  or  oil.  Fry  a  nice  pale  brown,  then  drain  the  smelts  before  the  fire 
on  a  piece  of  paper,  and  serve  with  plain  melted  butter.  This  fish 
is  often  used  as  a  garnish. 

Time. — 5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  to  2s.  per  dozen.  Season- 
able from  October  to  May. 

To  CHOOSE  SMELTS. — When  good,  this  fish  is  of  a  fine  silvery  appearance,  and  when  alive  the  back 
is  of  a  dark-brown  shade,  which,  after  death,  fades  to  a  light  fawn.  Smelts  should  have  a  refresh- 
ing fragrance,  resembling  that  of  a  cucumber. 

636.— SMELTS,  POTTED.     (Fr.— Terrine  d' Eperlans.) 

Ingredients. — Fresh  smelts,  mace,  pepper  and  salt,  butter. 

Method. — Wash  the  fish  carefully,  draw  out  the  insides,  and  sprinkle 
the  seasoning  over  them.  Put  them  into  a  baking-tin  with  pieces  of 
butter,  and  bake  for  20  minutes.  Allow  the  smelts  to  get  nearly  cold, 
then  place  them  on  a  clean  cloth  to  drain,  and  put  into  pots.  Clarify 
the  butter  in  which  they  were  baked,  adding  more  if  necessary,  and 
pour  it  over  the  fish. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  2s.  per  dozen.  Seasonable 
from  October  to  May. 

THE  SMELT  (Fr.  tperlan)  is  a  small  but  very  delicate  fish,  and  is  highly  esteemed.  It  is  allied  to 
the  salmon,  and  inhabits  the  sea  about  the  mouths  of  rivers.  The  body  is  long  and  compressed, 
silvery-white  in  colour,  and  semi-transparent ;  the  eyes  are  large.  From  August  to  May  it  frequents 
fresh  water  and  spawns  ;  afterwards  it  returns  to  the  sea.  A  violet-like  odour  is  exhaled  from  the  smelt. 
The  ATHARINE,  or  "  sand-smelt,"  is  an  inferior  fish,  sometimes  sold  for  the  true  variety.  It  is  allied 
to  the  mullets,  and  is  of  a  pale  pink,  spotted  with  black. 

637.— SNAILS,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Escargots  rotis.) 

Ingredients. — 2  dozen  snails,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  shallot  finely-chopped,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Soak  the  snails  in  salt  and  water  for  12  hours,  then  drain 
them  well.  Sprinkle  lightly  with  salt,  pepper,  shallot  and  parsley, 
cover  with  breadcrumbs,  and  add  a  small  piece  of  butter.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  20  minutes,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from  6d.  to  is. 
per  dozen. 

638.— SNAILS     WITH     PIQUANT    SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Escargots,  sauce  piquante.) 

Ingredients. — 2  dozen  snails,  •$•  an  oz.  of  butter,  2  shallots  finely- 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  383 

chopped,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  piquant  sauce,  salt  and  pepper,  maltre 
d 'hotel  butter  as  directed  in  recipe  No.  551. 

Method.— Cover  the  snails  with  salt  and  water,  let  them  remain  in  it 
for  12  hours,  then  wash  and  drain  well.  Put  the  snails  into  a  sauce- 
pan containing  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  cook  gently  for 
about  20  minutes,  then  drain,  and  when  cool,  remove  them  from 
their  shells.  Meanwhile,  melt  the  butter,  fry  the  shallots  without 
browning,  add  the  piquant  sauce  and  snails,  and  season  to  taste. 
Make  thoroughly  hot,  replace  the  snails  in  their  shells,  cover 
maitre  d'hou-1  butter,  and  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  35  minutes.      Average  Cost,  6d.  to  is.  per 
dozen. 

639._SOLE,  BAKED  WITH  SHRIMPS.       (Fr.— Sole 
aux  Crevettes.) 

Ingredients.— i   medium-sized  sole,  $  of  a  pint  of  picked  shrimps,  i 
dessertspoonful   of    white    breadcrumbs,    i    teaspoonful   of   anch< 
essence,  i  egg, a  littU-  white  sauce  or  milk,  cayenne, salt, brown  br< 
crumbs,  a  little  butter. 

Method. — Remove  the  skin,  make  an  incision  down  the  centre  as  for 
filleting,  and  raise  as  far  as  possible  the  flesh  on  each  side.     Chop  t  he- 
shrimps  coarsely,  add  the  breadcrumbs,  cayenne,  salt  (if  necessary),  an- 
chovy-essence, \  the  egg,  and  sufficient  white  sauce  or  milk  to  moisten 
iYess  the  mixture  lightly  inside   the  fish,  and  instead  of 
ides  together,  fill   the  gap  between  them   with    the 
meat,  and    flatten    the    surface    of    it    to    the  level  of  the  fish. 
Brush  over  with  the  remainder  of    the  egg,  co  v  with  pale 

crumbs,  and  bake  for  about  20  minutes  in  a  mode; 
oven. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,   from    is.   od.    to   2s.  gd. 
Sufficient  f->r  j  to  3  persons.     Seasonable  at  an 

Tin  SOLE  (Fr.  **).  -Next  to  the  turbot.  the  sole  is  the  most  excellent  among  flat  fish.     Its  flesh 

is  white  and  delicate  and  easily  dieted,  and  is  highly  esteemed,  not  only  as  a  tahte-nsh.  hut  abo 

captured  on  the  Hntuh  coasts,  hut  those  caught  on  the  western  coast  are  usually 

^Bor  in  sue.     The  sole  spawns  during  February  and  March  and  during  that  season  its  flesh  is 

less  palatable.    AUkd  to  the  sole  is  theLcMOM  SOCE,  which  fe  lew  dettcateta  flavour.    The  flavour 

ofthesoter 

taujhl  !  v 

detail 

of  ..  i    :.•••  WO  d«fl 

the  ground.     It  to  dragged  along  the  bottom  of  the  sea  by  the 

640.— SOLE,    BOILED.     (Fr.— Sole  bouillie.) 

Ingredients.  —  i   l.u-^e  sole,  salt. 

Method.     \V.i  lie  fish,  but  do  not  md  cut  off  the 

fins.     Have  ready  a  ith  sufficient  warm  water  to  co. 

tdd  salt  put   in  the  sole,  and  cook  gently  from  10  to  12 


384  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

minutes,  according  to  its  size.  Drain  well,  dish  on  a  folded  napkin, 
garnish  with  parsley  and  cut  lemon,  and  serve  with  shrimp,  lobster, 
or  plain  melted  butter  sauce. 

Time. — After  the  water  boils,  10  to  12  minutes  for  a  large  sole. 
Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

To  CHOOSE  SOLES. — The  fish  should  be  both  thick  and  firm.  If  the  skin  is  removed  with  diffi- 
culty and  the  flesh  looks  grey,  it  is  good. 

641.— SOLE,    BAKED    FILLETS  OF,  WITH    FORCE- 
MEAT.     (Fr—  Filets  de  Sole  Farcis.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  sole,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs, 
i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  suet,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  i  egg,  salt  and 
pepper,  butter,  pale-brown  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Wash,  skin,  and  fillet  the  sole.  Mix  the  above  ingredients 
together  with  as  much  of  the  egg  as  is  necessary  to  moisten  the  whole. 
Spread  a  thin  layer  of  forcemeat  on  each  fillet,  and  fold  in  two.  Arrange 
the  fillets  in  a  fireproof  baking-dish,  and  fill  up  the  spaces  between  them 
with  the  rest  of  the  forcemeat.  Sprinkle  lightly  with  pale-brown  bread- 
crumbs, add  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter,  and  bake  for  about  30  minutes 
in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they  are  cooked. 

Time. — To  bake,  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  Qd.  to  2S.  3d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

642.— SOLE  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Sole  a  la 
Creme.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  sole,  i  pint  of  milk  (or  milk  and  fish 
stock),  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  small  piece 
of  onion,  salt  and  pepper,  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Wash,  skin,  and  fillet  the  sole,  and  divide  each  fillet  length- 
wise into  two.  Tie  each  strip  loosely  into  a  knot,  or  fold  the  ends  over 
each  other;  place  on  a  greased  tin,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle 
with  lemon-juice,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake  from  10  to 
15  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  To  make  the  stock,  simmer  the  bones 
of  the  fish,  the  onion,  and  mace  in  the  milk  for  about  15  minutes,  then 
strain  and  season  to  taste.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
flour,  cook  for  3  or  4  minutes,  then  pour  in  the  milk,  and  stir  until  it 
boils.  Let  the  sauce  simmer  10  minutes  at  least  ;  then  arrange  the 
fish  nicely  on  a  hot  dish,  either  in  a  circle  or  forming  two  rows,  and 
strain  the  sauce  over,  taking  care  to  coat  the  fish  evenly.  Decorate 
with  a  little  chopped  parsley  or  lobster  coral. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  gd.  to 
2S.  9d.  Sufficient  for  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


RECIPES    FOR    <  OOKfNG    FISH  385 

643.— SOLE  A  L'EPICURIENNE. 

Ingredients,  -i  medium-sized   sole,  |  of  a   pint  of  p>od  brown  sauce, 
•onful  of  sherry,  i  tomato,  u  button  mushrooms, 
readcmn 

Method.     Wash  and  skin  the  sole,  and  cm 
Hru>h  each  piece  over  with  egg,  coat  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hoi 

Iv  the  brown  s.u:  •••wpan.  put  in  th< 

ti.sh.  tomato  and  mushrooms,  co\  gently   for 

autes.      K..-move  the  fish  carefully,  and  arrange  it  on  a  ho: 
in  the  form  of  a  whole    sole.        Add  the   sherry   to   the  s.t  >on   to 

in  over  the  1,  h  with  the  mushr- 

Time.  hour.    Average  Cost.  to  2s.  yd.    Sufficient  for  3  or 

4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  tune. 

644.  -SOLE,  FILLETS  OF,  IN  CASES.  (/<>.— Filets  de 
Sole  en  Surprise.) 

Ingredients.  -  2  medium  11  i.irrot   .sliced),  I  ba\ 

ij  ozs.  of  butter,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  j  ozs.  of  L 
^c,  2  ors.  of  flu  .  ,  3  eggs,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 

. 

Method.  up  the  ' 

the  milk  with  t  i  carrot  ar. 

roll  up.  and  pi  m  a  bur  M.      Season  with  ] 

(K)ach 

about  8  mm  reparc   a   SOU!  :i    the 

dd    the le 

mainder  of  butter,  and  bun-  to  the  boil,  stir  in  the  flour  whilst    lx.ilm», 

a   wooden   spoon    or   spatula    until  the 

-  of  the  pan.  t  hcese,  and 

season  with  ar  lients  cool  a  little,  and  Mir  in  the 

ic  3  eggs  and  t  s  of  two. 

Butter  some  small  china  or  paper  souffle  cases,  put  a  dessertspoon- 
ful of  th<    mix1  iiid  upon  \  a  fillet  of  sole  with  a 

•  f    the    liquor  of    the  ti>h.        1  ill    up   CM- 

inixtu-  m  a  movleiate  oven  for  about  15   minutes.      Dish 

hot, 

may  be  baked  in  one  souffle  < 

Time.— J  of  an  hour.   Avenge  Cost,  Sufficient  for  8  persons, 

allou  dl  souffles  for  each.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

645.— SOLE,    A    LA   COLBERT,    FILLETS  OF. 

Ingredients.     I  i  soles,  i  oz,  of  butter,  i   tcaspoonful  of 

o 


386  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  cayenne,  pepper 
and  salt,  browned  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Mix  the  butter,  parsley,  lemon- juice  and  cayenne  together 
on  a  plate,  smooth  the  mixture  into  a  pat,  and  set  it  aside  to  become 
firm.  Wash,  skin  and  fillet  the  sole,  sprinkle  each  fillet  with  salt, 
pepper  and  lemon-juice,  and  roll  up,  making  the  outer  side  of  the  sole 
the  inside  of  the  roll ;  the  outside  skin  contracts  under  the  influence 
of  heat,  and  keeps  the  rolls  in  shape.  Place  on  a  buttered  tin,  cover 
with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake  for  about  15  minutes.  When  done, 
roll  quicky  in  the  browned  breadcrumbs,  place  a  small  round  pat  of  the 
Maitre  d'Hotel  on  the  top  of  each,  and  pour  round  anchovy  or  some 
other  sauce. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

646.— SOLE    A   L'HORLY,    FILLETS    OF. 

Ingredients. — i  fairly-large  sole.  For  the  marinade,  or  brine  :  I 
tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice  (or  the  same  quantity  of  mixed  tarragon 
and  chili  vinegar),  i  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil,  a  teaspoonful  each  of 
finely-chopped  parsley  and  onion  or  shallots,  salt  and  pepper.  For 
the  batter  :  2  ozs.  of  flour,  £  gill  of  tepid  water,  i  tablespoonful  of 
salad-oil  or  melted  butter,  the  white  of  i  egg,  salt. 

Method. — Wash,  skin  and  fillet  the  sole,  and  divide  each  fillet  length- 
wise and  across  into  two.  Place  the  fillets  in  a  deep  dish  with  the  marin- 
ade, and  let  them  soak  for  i  hour,  then  drain  well.  Have  ready 
the  batter,  made  by  mixing  the  flour  and  salt  smoothly  with  the  water 
and  oil,  and  lastly  adding  the  stiffly- whipped  white  of  egg.  Dip  the 
fillets  of  fish  in  the  batter,  take  them  out  on  the  point  of  a  skewer, 
drop  them  carefully  into  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  and  fry  until  golden- 
brown.  Dish  on  a  folded  serviette  or  fish  paper,  and  garnish  with 
fried  parsley. 

Time. — Altogether,  i£  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2S.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

647.— SOLES,    FILLETS    OF,    NORMANDY    STYLE. 
(Fr. — Filets  de  Sole  a  la  Normande.) 

Ingredients. — 2  soles,  white  wine,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  butter,  cooked 
oysters,  mussels,  mushrooms,  Normande  sauce  (No.  204). 

Method. — Clean,  skin,  and  trim  the  soles,  remove  the  fillets,  fold  them 
in  two,  and  place  them  in  a  buttered  saute-pan,  season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  moisten  with  i  gill  of  white  wine,  sprinkle  with  a  finely- 
chopped  shallot,  place  a  few  pieces  of  butter  here  and  there,  and  cook 
in  the  oven  for  about  10  minutes.  Have  ready  a  garniture  of  pre- 
pared oysters,  mussels,  button  mushrooms,  and  croutes  or  fleurons 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  387 

(little  half-moon  shapes  of  puff -paste).  Put  the  fillets  on  a  dish, 
arrange  the  garnish  neatly,  and  sauce  over  with  the  Normande  sauce  in 
which  the  garniture  was  cooked.  Garnish  the  sides  \vith  croutes  of 
bread  made  from  rasped  French  dinner  rolls  (buttered  slices  browned 
in  the  oven)  or  with  neurons.  Serve  the  remaining  sauce  separately 
in  a  boat. 

--If  smelts  are  in  season    this  dish  should  be  garnished  with  a  few 
dried  snu  Its  in  addition  to  the  other  garniture. 

Time. — To  cook,    10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  45.  3d.  to  45.  pd.     Suffi- 
cient for  7  or  8  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

648.  -SOLES,  FILLETS  OF,  POLISH  STYLE. 

(Fr.— Filets  de  Soles,  a  la  Polonaise.) 

Ingredients.     S"Ks,  white  wine,  truffle,  whiting  forcemeat  (No.  415), 
prawns  or  cravlish.  Tomato  Sauce  (No.  281.) 

Method.— Skin  and  fillet  the  soles,  flatten  them  a  little,  fold  and  pare 

.  and  put  them  in  a  buttered  saute-pan.    Season  with  pepp< 
salt,  add  a  wine-glassful  of  white  \\inc,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  and 
ro<»k  in  the  oven  for  about  10  minutes.     Have  ready  a  buttered  border 
mould,  decorate  the  sides  with   a  few  fancifully-cut  slices  of  U 
fill  up  with  "  whiting   forcemeat,"  poach    in  a  bain-marie,   turn  out 
on   a  dish,   dress  the  fillets  on  top  of    the  border  in  a    cin 
and  place    a  prawn  or  crayfish  tail  on    top  of   each  fillet.     Fill   the 

with   a    salpicon    of    truffles,    mushrooms,  olives,  and 
ills.       Sauce   over  carefully  with  a  well  ; 

Time. — To  cook,  about  10  minutes.     Seasonable  all 

649.— SOLE,  ROLLED  FILLETS  OF,  CARDINAL 
STYLE.  (Fr.— Paupiettes  de  Sole  a  la 
Cardinale.) 

Ingredients.     i  large    or   3  small  soles,  chopped   truffles,  light    fish 

,  i  glass  of  Chablis,  $  of  a  pint  of  fish  stock,  I  pill  of 

Cardinal  sauce  aspoonful  of  Krona  seasoning,  lobster 

,,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Skin  and  fillet  the  soles, flatten  each  fillet,  trim,  and  season 
them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Spread  the  cut  side  with  a  ligh 
forcemeat,  sprinkle  over  some  chopped  truffles,  and  roll  up  the  fillets 
in  the  form  of  olives.  Place  them,  folded  side  downwards,  in  a 
buttered  earthenware  casserole,  moisten  with  a  pi  ass  of  Chablis  wine, 
and  the  fish  stock.  Sprinkle  with  ^  a  teaspoonful  of  Krona  seas- 

ttered  paper,  and    cook    in  a  hot  oven  for  about   15 
minutes.  Pour  off  some  of  the  liquor,  and  add  to  it  the  Cardinal  sauce, 

<  e  a  little.     Strain    this 
ce  a  slier  hi  let  of  sole, 

the  cass. 


388  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  45.  Sufficient  for 
8  or  10  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

650.— SOLE,   FRIED.     (Fr.— Sole  frite.) 

Ingredients. — I  medium-sized  sole,  oil  or  clarified  fat,  egg,  bread- 
crumbs, flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  skin  the  sole,  cut  off  the  fins,  and  dry  well. 
Add  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  to  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
rub  it  well  into  the  sole,  then  brush  it  over  with  egg,  and  cover 
with  fine  breadcrumbs.  Lift  it  carefully  on  to  the  wire  drainer,  lower 
it  into  the  hot  oil  or  fat,  and  fry  until  it  acquires  a  pale  golden-brown 
colour.  Soles  may  also  be  fried,  though  less  easily,  and  sometimes 
less  satisfactorily,  in  a  large  frying-pan.  The  oval  form  is  preferable 
for  the  purpose  ;  and  in  frying,  care  should  be  taken  to  first  cook  the 
side  of  the  sole  intended  to  be  served  uppermost,  otherwise  bread- 
crumbs that  have  become  detached  from  the  side  first  fried  may  adhere 
to  the  side  next  cooked,  and  spoil  its  appearance.  Drain  well  on  kitchen 
paper,  and  serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd.  to  2s.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

651.— SOLES,   TO  FILLET. 

Soles  for  filleting  should  be  large,  as  the  flesh  can  be  more  easily 
separated  from  the  bones,  and  there  is  less  waste.  To  skin  any  fish, 
it  must  be  kept  wet.  It  is  easier  to  skin  if  it  is  stale. 

Method. — With  flat-fish  begin  at  the  tail,  cut  the  skin  across,  but  do 
not  cut  into  the  flesh,  and  loosen  the  skin  along  the  fins  on  either  side 
with  a  skewer  or  finger.  Then  tear  off  the  skin  with  the  left  hand, 
keeping  the  thumb  of  the  right  hand  well  pressed  over  the  backbone 
to  prevent  the  removal  of  the  flesh  with  the  skin.  Use  a  sharp  knife 
for  filleting  ;  keep  it  pressed  to  the  bone,  raise  the  flesh  carefully,  remove 
the  fillets,  and  divide  them,  into  pieces  suitable  for  serving.  Fillets 
of  a  small  sole  are  not  divided  ;  they  are  rolled,  tied,  or  folded  according 
to  requirements. 

652.— SOLES,     FRICASSEE    OF.     (Fr.  —  Fricass6e  de 
Soles.) 

Ingredients. — 2  medium-sized  soles,  i  small  sole,  i  yolk  of  egg,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
a  little  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  salt  and  pepper.  Butter  or  fat  for 
frying,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  £  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  No.  233, 
i  tablespoonful  of  sherry,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  the  small  sole,  and  chop 
the  flesh  finely.  Mix  with  it  the  breadcrumbs,  parsley,  lemon-rind, 
and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  bind  with  a  little  of  the  yolk  of  egg. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  389 

Shape  into  small  balls,  fry  in  hot  butter  or  fat  until  crisp  and  lightly 
browned,  and  drain  well.  Skin  and  trim  the  soles,  coat  them  carefully 
with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  them  brown  in  hot  fat.  Drain 
well,  place  the  soles  in  a  same-pan,  pour  over  them  the  hot  sauce, 
add  the  forcemeat  balls  and  lemon-juice,  and  season  to  taste.  Simmer 
gently  tor  m  minutes,  then  serve  the  fish  with  the  sauce  strained  over, 
and  garnished  with  the  balls. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  33.  9d.  to  45.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

653.— SOLE  AU  GRATIN. 

In  France  there  is  but  one  way  of  doing  Sole  an  C.ratin,  but  in  England 

.  mi  better  method  than  the 

French  ;    and  a  sole    cooked    "  au  gratin  "  after  the  French  manner 
liiu;lv  taMy  dish,  and  once  introduced  will  be  pref.-netl  to  all 

others. 

Ingredients. —  i  large  sole,  \  a  glass  of  white  wine,  preserved  mush- 
rooms sliced,  Italian  sauce  (N<>.  j;j),  mushroom  liquor,  chopped 
par>ley.  brown  breadcrumbs,  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  lemon-jiu 

Method.      lake  the  sole,  skin  both  sides,  cut   off  the  head  and  fins, 

and    make   se\  ions  with  a  knife   across  one  side  of  the  fish. 

cut  side   upwards,  on    a    well-buttered    silver-plated   "  gratin 

dish,"  season  with   pepper  and  salt,  add  half  a  small  glass  of  white 

i  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  a  little  mushroom  liquor,  and  some 

chopj i  v.     Place  a  row  of  sli>  1  mushroom- 

•ntre  of  the  fish,  and  cover  with  a  rich  I  tali  .      Sprinkle 

with  brown  breadcrumbs,  put  a  t<  w  nnv  bits  of    butter  here  and  there 

on  top  of  the  h>h,  and  bake  in  a  r.  >  minutes, 

iing  to  tl:<  s  the  oven 

»ther     1  ble. 

Time.  From  _-o  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  od.  to  2S.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  2  or  3  person-.  Seasonable  all  the  \ 

654.— SOLE  WITH  FINE  HERBS.        (Fr.— Sole  aux 

Fines  Herbes.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  medium-sized  sol  at  of  good 

aelv-cho;  i    tablespoonful  of 

fiuelv-rhnpprd  ;  \  ateaspoontul  r.uh  ot  anchovy  and  H.i: 

.  salt  and  pej 
Method.      Melt  the  buf  pan.  ad«l  the  rest  of  the  in 

•  v  and    II  .   and   warm   gradually, 

{nit  it  into  tlu-  pan  as  soon  as  the  con  ten1 

•r  \  an  hour. 

!(ld   the  ancliovv  an«l    Harvev's  sauce;  then  place  the 
in  the  sauce  o\ 


590  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  2  or 
3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

655.— SOLE     WITH     MAITRE      D'  HOTEL     SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Sole  a  la  Maitre  d' Hotel.) 

Sole  &  la  Maitre  d' Hotel  is  dressed  and  served  in  precisely  the  same 
way  as  Sole  a  la  Creme,  with  the  addition  of  a  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley  and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  both  of  which  must 
be  stirred  into  the  sauce  just  before  serving. 

656.— SOLES,  PAUPIETTES  OF,  RICHELIEU  STYLE. 
(Fr. — Paupiettes  de  Soles  a  la  Richelieu.) 

Ingredients. — 2  large  soles,  i  whiting,  3  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  3  ozs. 
of  butter,  the  yolks  of  4  eggs,  2  ozs.  of  lobster-meat,  i  oz.  of  lobster 
butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  i  gill  of 
white  wine,  i  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  lemon- juice,  pepper 
and  salt,  8  small  croutes  of  fine  bread,  8  mushroom  heads,  i  truffle, 
£  an  oz.  of  flour,  \  a  pint  of  white  stock. 

Method. — Skin  the  soles,  remove  the  fillets,  flatten  them  a  little. 
Put  the  bones  in  a  stewpan  with  %  a  pint  of  water  and  the  stock,  reduce 
to  half  the  quantity,  and  strain.  Skin  and  bone  the  whiting,  pound 
in  a  mortar  till  smooth.  Moisten  the  breadcrumbs  with  the  cream, 
add  these  to  the  pounded  fish  with  the  shallot  and  lobster-meat,  pound 
and  mix  thoroughly.  Now  add  i£  ozs.  of  butter  and  yolks  of  3  eggs, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  mix  in  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Spread  one  side  of  each  fillet  with 
the  forcemeat,  roll  up,  trim  a  little,  and  wrrap  each  fillet  in  a  piece  of 
buttered  paper.  Place  them  closely  in  a  buttered  saute-pan,  sprinkle 
with  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  cook  for  5  minutes  in  the  oven, 
then  add  the  wine,  baste  well,  and  cook  for  another  10  minutes, 
or  longer  if  required.  Spread  one  side  of  each  croute  with  the  remain- 
ing forcemeat,  and  bake  for  a  few  minutes.  Take  up  the  fillets, 
remove  the  paper,  place  upright  on  the  croutes,  put  a  mushroom  head 
on  each,  and  keep  hot.  In  the  meantime,  knead  i  oz.  of  butter 
with  the  flour,  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  add  the  liquor  of 
the  fillets  and  the  reduced  stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  simmer  for 
15  minutes.  Bind  with  the  yolk  of  egg,  strain,  work  in  the  lobster- 
butter,  and  season  to  taste.  Dish  up  the  paupiettes,  sauce  over, 
sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley,  place  a  star  of  truffle  in  the  centre  of 
each,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  55,  to  53.  6<L  Sufficient  for  8 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    FISH  391 

657.— SOLES    WITH    MUSHROOMS.  (Fr.— Soles 

aux  Champignons.) 

Ingredients. — 2   medium  sized  soles,   £  a  pint   of  mushroom  sauce, 

milk,  salt  and  popper. 
Method. — Skin  and   trim  the  soles,  place  them  in  an  earthc: 

tficiently  large  to  allow  the  fish  to  lie  flat,  but  one  above 
the  other  if  more  convenient.  Sprinkle  them  liberally  with  salt  and 
pepper,  barely  cover  with  milk,  and  put  over  all  a  greased  paper,  to 
;n  the  steam.  Cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  10  or  15  minutes, 
then  drain  well,  and  place  the  soles  on  a  hot  dish.  Make  the  sauce  as 
directed,  but  before  adding  the  mushrooms,  boil  well  to  reduce,  in  order 
that  some  or  all  of  the  liquor  from  the  dish  may  be  mixed  with  it, 
otherwise  the  sauce  would  be  too  thin.  Season  to  taste,  pour  over  the 

and  ser 

Time. — To  cook  the  soles,  from  10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2s. 
'*!.,  exclusive  of  the  sauce.    Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.     StiiQB 
able  at  any  time. 

658.— SOLE,  PORTUGUESE  STYLE.      (Fr.— Sole  a  la 
Portugaisc.) 

Ingredients.— i  medium-sized  sole,  I  oz.  of  butter,  2  or  3  tomatoes 
.  i  onion  sliced,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  i  teaspoonful  of  i 

d  parsley,  }  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy-essence,  brown  bread- 
crumbs, grated  Parmesan  cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.—  Skin  the  sole  and  make  an  incision  down  the  centre  as  for 
fillet  ins,  and  raise  the  flesh  from  the  bone  on  each  side  as  far  as  po 
Mix  the  butter,  onion,  parsley,  and  anchovy-essence  well  together, 
and  put  the  mixture  inside  the  sole.  Arrange  the  slices  of  onion  and 
tomato  alternately,  and  overlapping  each  other  on  the  top  of  the  fish  ; 
or  if  less  onion  is  preferred,  surround  each  slice  of  tomato  by  a  single 
rin£  of  onion.  Mix  together  a  dessertspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  brown  breadcrumbs,  and  sprinkle 
the  fish.  Place  small  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  cover  with 
a  greased  paper,  and  bake  for  about  20  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

h  tomato  or  brown  sa 

Time.— To  bake,  about  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.     Sufficient 
for  3  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

659.— SPRATS,  DRIED.     (Fr.-Melettes  fum6s.) 

Dried  spr.its  should  be  put  into  a  basin,  and  boiling  water  p< 

then  be  skinned  and  served,  and  this  will  be 
;  a    much   better  way   than  boiling  them.      They  can  also  be 


392  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

660.— SPRATS.     (Fr.— Melettes  or  Harenguets.) 

Sprats  should  be  cooked  very  fresh.  Their  condition  can  be  ascer- 
tained by  their  eyes,  which  should  be  bright.  Wipe  them  dry  ;  fasten 
them  in  rows  by  a  skewer  run  through  the  eyes  ;  dredge  with  flour, 
and  broil  them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  nice  clear  fire.  The  gridiron  should 
be  rubbed  with  suet.  Serve  very  hot,  with  cut  lemons  and  brown 
bread  and  butter. 

Time. — 3  or  4  minutes.  Average  Cost,  id.  to  3d.  per  Ib.  Allow 
i  Ib.  for  3  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

THE  SPRAT  (Fr.  melette). — This  well-known  migratory  tittle  fish  is  allied  to  the  herring,  and  was 
formerly  supposed  to  be  the  young  of  that  fish.  There  are,  however,  specifically  distinct  character- 
istics which  distinguish  the  sprat  on  close  examination  from  the  herring,  the  chief  being  the  serrated 
or  notched  edge  of  the  abdomen,  the  greater  prominence  of  the  ventral  fins,  and  differences  in  the 
structure  of  the  teeth.  The  sprat  abounds  in  the  North  Atlantic  and  Mediterranean  Seas,  and  on 
many  parts  of  the  British  coasts,  where  in  the  winter  and  spring  they  appear  in  immense  shoals,  and 
are  captured  in  vast  quantities.  The  flesh  of  the  sprat  is  wholesome  and  well-flavoured.  Large 
quantities  of  sprats  are  used  by  the  farmers  near  the  coasts  for  manure.  Sprats  are  also  dried  and 
cured  in  a  similar  manner  to  red  herrings.  In  Scotland  the  sprat  is  called  the  GARVIE. 

66 1. —SPRATS,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  peck  of  sprats,  i  Ib.  of  salt,  2  ozs.  of  baysalt,  2  ozs. 
of  saltpetre,  i  oz.  of  sal-prunella,  a  little  cochineal. 

Method. — Pound  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  sprats,  in  a  mortar, 
then  put  the  sprats  in  a  pan  in  layers  with  the  seasoning,  press  them 
tightly  down,  and  cover  close.  They  will  be  ready  for  use  in  5  or  6 
months. 

To  CHOOSE  SPRATS. — Choose  those  with  a  silvery  appearance,  brightness  being  a  sign  of  fresh- 

662.-SPRAT    PASTE. 

Method. — To  make  sprat-paste,  which  is  similar  to  anchovy-paste,  bake 
the  sprats  with  a  little  butter  in  an  earthenware  dish,  remove 
the  heads,  tails,  backbone  and  skin,  pound  the  fish  well  in  a  mortar, 
and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Season  well  with  salt,  cayenne  and 
pepper,  add  a  good  pinch  of  ground  mace,  and  anchovy-essence  to 
taste.  Press  into  small  pots,  and  cover  with  clarified  butter. 

Time. — 5    or   6  minutes.     Seasonable   from  November  to  March. 

663.— STURGEON,    BAKED.        (Fr.— Esturgeon    roti 
au  Vin  Blanc.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  sturgeon,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  i  small 
bunch  of  herbs,  the  juice  of  \  a  lemon,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  pint  of 
white  wine. 

Method. — Cleanse  the  fish  thoroughly,  skin  it,  and  remove  the  inside. 
Have  ready  a  large  baking-dish,  lay  the  fish  in  it,  sprinkle  over  the 
seasoning  and  herbs  very  finely  minced,  and  moisten  it  with  the  lemon- 


FOR    COOKING    FISH  303 

.ml  \vinc.     Place  the  butter  in  small  pieces  over  the  whole  <>f  the 
it  it  in  the  oven,  and  baste  frequently  ;  brown  it  nicely,  am: 
with   its  own  gnr 

Time.  —From  i   to  i  }  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  33.  6d.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  from   April  to  September. 

s  (Fr.  fstttrseom)  was  highly  esteemed  by  the  Roman*,  and  in  the  time  of  the  Emperor 
Sevenis  it  was  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  important  delicacies  of  the  table.  Its  virtues  are  cele- 
brated by  the  poet  Martial.  The  sturgeon  is  an  inhabitant  of  the  Ba 

Caspian,  and  the  Black  Seas,  and  of  the  Danube,  the  Volga,  the  Don,  and  other  Urge  nvera.     It 
nds  in  the  rivers  of  North  America,  and  is  occasionally  taken  in  the  Thames,  in  the  Esk.  and  in 


formerly  it  belonged  by  hereditary  right  to  the  King.  The  avenge  length  of  the  common 
sturgeon  b  about  6  feet,  but  other  species,  as  the  great  or  white  sturgeon  frequently 
dimensions.  The  STKM.KT,  a  smaller  species  about  j  feet  in  length,  found  in  the  Caspian  Sea  and 
some  Russian  rivers,  is  the  most  delicate  in  flavour,  and  its  roe  b  the  most  highly  esteemed  for  nuking 
caviare.  In  general  form  the  sturgeon  b  somewhat  slender  ;  the  body  b  covered  with  bony  plates  in 
longitndmtl  r  ws;  to  •  rtt  town*  t  twtk  ti  rttvrt  i  a  •:.•  mm  M*  i  i  :  to  IM  .1  tl  HM 
of  a  proboscis.  Its  tail  is  ketencmal.  or  unequally  lobed.  The  sturgeon,  besides  its  ex- 

sh.  b  valuable  for  its  roe,  from  which  caviare  b  prepared,  and  abo  for  its  air-bladder,  which 
furnishes  the  finest  rengMff  ;  both  these  products  constituting  important  articles  of  commerce. 

664.  -STURGEON,  BAKED    OR    ROASTED. 

Ingredients.      I  ncl  of  a  sturgeon,  veal  forcemeat 

ng. 

Method.  —  Was  .in  the  fish,  split  it  down  ti  side,  care- 

fully  ;  :   fill  the  -  -\ith   the  fore. 

i  in  its  original  form,  and  tie  a  buttered  paper  over  the 

in  a  baking-dish  or  tin 

baste  well,  and  bake  from  i  to  1  1  hours  in  a  mo  '. 
basting  frcqii'  with  good  brown  gravy  or  a  sn 

Time.  —  Altogether,  \\  to  i  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  33.  6d. 

.     Seasonable  :il  to  Sep 

in»fon  m.iy  U-  pl.imlv  U«il«-«l.  and  served  with  Dutch  sauce.  The 
tx>ihng. 

665.  -STURGEON     CUTLETS.         (Fr.  —   Cotelettes 

d'Esturgeon.) 

Ingredients.  —  ^   Ib.  of  sturgeon,  |  a  tcaspoonful  of  •  >pped 

teaspoon  fill  of  finely-grated  Icnmn-rind.  e^g  r.nd  1 

tomato  sauce  (No. 

Ingredients.     Cut  the  fish  it  utlet- 

I 

1  season  with  salt   a: 
1 

in  hot  fat  until  lightly  browned  on 

Time.     To  trv.  .iU,ut  s.     Average  Cost,  from 

Sufficient  :  i  '.  or  8  persons.     Seasonable.  April  • 


394  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

666.— STURGEON,    MARINADED.      (Fr.—  Esturgeon 
marine.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  Ib.  of  sturgeon,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  Spanish  onion 
chopped,  i  small  carrot  sliced,  £  of  a  turnip  coarsely-chopped,  i  strip 
of  celery  chopped,  2  bay-leaves,  i  dessertspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
£  a  pint  of  vinegar,  i  pint  of  fish  stock  or  water,  i  blade  of  mace,  6 
peppercorns,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Cold  remains  may  be  used  for  this  dish  instead  of  raw  fish, 
which,  when  used,  must  be  gently  stewed  for  i  hour  in  a  little  stock 
or  water.  This  stock  is  employed  to  form  the  basis  of  the  marinade. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  celery, 
bay-leaves  and  parsley,  cover  closely,  cook  gently  for  about  20  minutes, 
then  add  the  vinegar,  fish  stock  or  water,  mace,  peppercorns  and  salt. 
Simmer  gently  for  1 5  minutes,  then  turn  the  preparation  into  an  earthen- 
ware vessel,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  quite  cold  put  in  the  fish.  Let  it 
remain  for  about  12  hours,  then  serve  with  a  little  of  the  liquor  strained 
round. 

Time. — About  2  hours,  when  using  raw  fish.  Average  Cost,  sturgeon, 
from  is.  6d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  8  or  12  persons.  Seasonable,  April  to 
September. 

667.— STURGEON,  PROVENCALE  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Esturgeon  a  la  Provengale.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  sturgeon  in  one  slice,  stock,  i-J-  ozs.  of  butter, 
slices  of  ham  or  bacon,  £  a  clove  of  garlic,  %  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  flour. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly,  and  coat  it  lightly  with 
flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
fry  the  fish  on  both  sides,  and  when  nicely  browned  cover  it  with  strips 
of  ham  or  bacon.  Pour  a  little  stock  round  to  about  half  the  depth 
of  the  fish,  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  the  garlic  and  herbs.  Cover 
closely,  and  simmer  gently  from  40  to  60  minutes,  according  to  size 
and  the  age  of  the  fish  from  which  the  piece  was  taken.  Serve  the 
fish  with  the  gravy  strained  round,  or,  if  preferred,  send  it  to  table 
simply  garnished  with  sliced  lemon  and  parsley.  Serve  brown  sauce 
or  anchovy  sauce  separately. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  6d.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable,  April  to  September. 

668.— STURGEON,  STEWED.     (Fr.— Ragout  d'estur- 
geon.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  sturgeon,  white  stock,  i  glass  of  sherry  or  Madeira, 
i  tablespoonful  of  capers,  i£  ozs.  of  butter  or  fat,  vinegar,  flour,  salt 
and  pepper,  i  lemon. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH  395 

Method. — Wash  .and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly,  and  cut  it  into  slices, 
from  |  to  i  inch  in  thickness.  Cover  these  with  vinegar,  let  them 
soak  for  5  or  6  minutes,  then  drain  and  dry  them,  and  coat  them  lightly 
with  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  the  butter  or  fat, 
fry  the  fish  on  both  sides  until  lightly  browned,  and  drain  them  free 
from  fat.  Place  the  fish  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  wine,  and  as  much  stock 
as  will  barely  cover  them,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cover 
v,  stew  gently  for  about  i  hour,  then  remove  to  a  hot  dish,  strain 
ravy,  and  return  it  to  the  stewpan.  Season  the  gravy  to  taste, 
add  the  capers  and  a  little  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  make  it  thoroughly 
hot,  and  pour  it  over  the  fish.  Garnish  with  sliced  lemon,  and 
servo. 

Time. — About  ij  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  6d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable,  April  to  September. 

669.— TENCH,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Tanche  roti.) 

Ingredients. —  i  tench,  3  ozs.  of  butter  or  fat,  2  shallots  finely-chopped, 
2  lemons,  £  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  i  tables poonful  of  coarsely-chopped 
gherkin,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Scale   and   clean    the   fish   thoroughly,   remove    the   gills, 

which  arc  always  muddy,  then  sprinkle  the  fish  liberally  with  lemon- 

and  put  it  aside  for  i  hour.     Melt  the  butter  in  a  baking-dish, 

put  in  the  fish,  and  bash  prinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add 

the  shallots.      Cover  the  fish  with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake  gently 

from  25  to  35  minutes,  according  to  size.     Make  the  sauce  as  directed, 

he  gherkin  and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  and  season  to 

taste.     Serve  the  fish  with  the  sauce  poured  over. 

Time. — About    $    an    hour.     Average    Cost,    uncertain,    tench    being 
seldom  offered  for  sale.      Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.     Seasonable  from 
inber  to  March. 

670.— TENCH,  BOILED.     (Fr.- Tanche   Bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — i  tench,  ^  a  pint  of  anchovy,  parsley  or  piquant  sauce 

265),  lemon,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Scale  and  clean  the  fish  thoroughly,  and  remove  the  gills. 
Rul>  the  inside  of  the  fish  with  salt,  applying  it  liberally  under  the 
backbone,  which  should  be  raised  for  the  purpose.  Let  it  stand  for 
:-s,  and  afterwards  rinse  the  fish  well  in  cold  water.  Put  it  into 
a  saucepan  containing  just  sufficient  hot,  but  not  quite  boiling,  salted 
water  to  cover  it,  and  simmer  gently  from  15  to  25  minutes,  according 
to  size.  PiMin  well,  and  serve  garnished  with  sliced  lemon  and 

ley. 

Time. — From    15   to  25   minutes,  to  boil.     Average  Cost,  uncertain, 
ag  seldom  offered  for  sale.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 


396  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

671.— TENCH,    MARINADED      AND       BROILED. 

(Fr. — Tanche    grille.) 

Ingredients. — Small  tench;  to  2  or  3  allow  i  small  onion  finely-chopped, 
2  shallots  finely-chopped,  i  dessertspoonful  of  parsley  finely-chopped, 
£  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of 
salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper,  piquant  sauce. 

Method.— Wash  and  clean  the  fish  thoroughly,  remove  the  gills,  and 
completely  cover  the  fish  with  boiling  water.  Let  them  remain  for 
5  minutes,  then  dry  and  scale  them  carefully.  Place  them  in  a 
deep  dish,  add  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  the  onion, 
shallot,  parsley,  herbs  and  salad-oil.  Allow  the  tench  to  lie  for  2 
hours,  meanwhile  basting  frequently  with  the  marinade,  and  then 
drain  well.  Have  ready  some  pieces  of  well-oiled  foolscap  of  suitable 
size,  enclose  each  fish  separately,  and  broil  it  over  a  clear  fire  for  10  or 
15  minutes,  according  to  size.  When  done,  remove  the  papers  and 
serve  the  fish  with  the  piquant  sauce  poured  over. 

Time. — About  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  tench  being  seldom 
offered  for  sale.  Allow  i  for  each  person. 

THE  TENCH  (Fr.  tanche). — This  fish  generally  inhabits  stagnant  and  weedy  waters,  and  rivers  and 
ponds  abounding  in  rushes.  It  thrives  best  in  standing  waters,  and  is  found  more  frequently  in 
pools  and  ponds,  where  it  feeds  on  refuse  vegetable  matter,  than  in  running  streams.  Tench  taken 
from  the  latter  are  preferable  for  the  table,  the  flavour  being  superior ;  those  captured  where  the 
mud  is  foul  have  usually  a  bad  taste  if  cooked  immediately,  but  this  may  be  obviated  by  placing 
the  fish  when  caught  in  clear  water.  The  tench  is  very  tenacious  of  life,  and  may  be  preserved  or 
carried  for  a  long  distance  covered  in  damp  weeds.  In  colour  this  fish  is  a  greenish-olive  above, 
and  of  a  light  tint  below.  It  spawns  in  May  and  June.  The  flesh  of  the  tench  is  somewhat  coarse 
and  insipid  The  tench  is  a  member  of  the  carp  family,  and  is  frequently  placed  in  ponds  with  carp. 

672.— TENCH,    MATELOT    OF.         (Fr.—  Tanche    en 
Matelote.) 

Ingredients. — 3  tench,  12  sauce  oysters,  i  pint  of  good  stock,  £  of  a 
pint  of  port  wine  or  claret,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful 
of  finely-chopped  onion,  12  button  mushrooms,  a  bouquet-garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,  i  teaspoonful 
of  anchovy-essence,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  salt  and  pepper, 
cayenne. 

Method. — Wash,  clean  and  scale  the  fish,  and  cut  each  into  2  or  3 
pieces.  Put  the  stock,  onion,  bouquet-garni,  mushrooms,  cloves, 
mace,  with  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne,  into  a  shallow  stewpan.  Simmer 
gently  for  20  minutes,  then  put  in  the  fish,  cover  closely,  and  simmer 
gently  for  \  an  hour.  Meanwhile  blanch  the  'oysters  in  their  own 
liquor,  remove  the  beards,  cut  each  oyster  in  two,  and  strain  the  liquor 
into  the  stewpan.  Melt  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  add  the  flour, 
and  cook  it  for  4  or  5  minutes.  When  the  fish  is  ready,  remove  it 
carefully  to  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over  the  flour  and  butter,  and 


IvI-(  II'KS    FOR    COOKING    FI>H 

stir  until  smooth.     Add  to  it  the  mushrooms,  lemon-juice,  and  wine, 

;i  to  taste,  simmer  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  put  in  the  o  , 
and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish. 

Time.—  About   i  hour.     Average  Cost,  uncertain.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 


i  cndi  may  also  be  plainly  boiled  or  bal. 

673.—  TROUT,  BAKED.     (Fr.—  Truite  rotie  au  four.) 

Ingredients.  —  2  trout,  veal  forcemeat  (see  forcemeats),  3  ozs.  of  butler, 
I  oz.  of  flour,  i  dessertspoonful  of  capers,  i  teaspoonful  of  lenum- 
jiii<<  poonful  of  anchovy-ess.  tit. 

Method.     Clean,  s<  the  ion  • 

1,  put  it  iiiMd  i|>  the  openings. 

or  dish  will;  and  buK 

Unit  \  an  hour,  1 

and  the  rest  of  the  butt'  nd  when  the  ii^}\  is  ready  n 

it  to  a  ,  and  strain  t!  dish  on  to  th- 

and  butter.  Stir  until  it  boils  and  becomes  smooth,  then  add  the  capers, 
lemon-juice,  anchovy  -essence,  and  season  to  taste.  Simmer  for  2  or 
3  minutes,  then  pour  over  the  fish,  and  s- 

Time.—  i  hour,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  js.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to  Septcml>er. 

674.  -  TROUT,  BOILED.     (Fr.—  Truite  bouillie.) 

Ingredients,     j    medium  M/<d    u  t    ,i   pint    of   m<h<d    butter, 

;  tal.lespoontul  <-i  »  o.u  -li  and  j- 

Method.  and    wash    the    trout,    barely    cover    t; 

>ut  not  quite  boili-  d  water,  and  simmer  gently  from   10 

,    according    to   si/  .1    the 

eason  to  taste,  pour  o\ 

Time.  -From  i<>  to  i:  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  2S.  per  ib. 
Suincient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

675.—  TROUT,    FILLETED    AND    FRIED. 

(Fr.—  Filets  de  Truite  frites.) 

Ingredients.  —  2  medium-sized    trout,  i    level    tables  jxxjnlul  of  flour, 
-poonful  of  salt,  \  a  salt  spoonful  1  breadcrumbs, 

irslcy  for  garnish,  anchovy,  shrimp  or  tomato 
(see  Sauces). 

Method.  and  thon  lit  them  down 

the    bntie.      Mix    i'ie    fl«»i: 

carefully  with    1 


398  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

crumbs.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  fat,  and  fry  the  fish  until  lightly 
browned  and  crisp.  Drain  well,  garnish  with  sliced  lemon  and  parsley, 
and  serve  the  sauce  separately. 

Time. — To  fry,  5  or  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  2s.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  from  February  to  September.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

676.— TROUT,  FILLETS  OF,  WITH  TOMATO  SAUCE. 
(Fr. — Filets  de  Truite  a  la  Tomate.) 

Ingredients. — i  or  2  trout,  i|-  ozs.  of  butter,  2  shallots  finely-chopped, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley  finely-chopped,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  £  of  a  pint  of  hot  tomato  sauce,  No.  281. 

Method. — Prepare  the  trout  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  and 
place  the  fillets  in  a  baking-dish,  in  which  the  butter  has  been  previously 
melted.  Season  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  shallots, 
parsley  and  herbs,  and  cover  closely  with  a  greased  paper.  Cook 
gently  for  about  20  minutes,  then  transfer  the  fish  to  a  hot  dish,  pour 
the  prepared  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  2s.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
from  February  to  September. 

677.— TROUT,  STEWED.   (Fr.—  Truite  au  Vin  Rouge.) 

Ingredients. — 2  good-sized  trout,  %  an  onion  thinly  sliced,  a  little 
parsley,  2  cloves,  I  blade  of  mace,  2  bay-leaves,  a  little  thyme, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  i  pint  of  stock,  No.  5  or  7,  i  glass  of  claret  or 
port  wine,  i  oz.  each  of  butter  and  flour. 

Method. — Wash  the  fish  very  clean,  and  wipe  it  quite  dry.  Lay  it 
in  a  stewpan,  with  all  the  ingredients  but  the  butter  and  flour,  and 
simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour.  While  the  fish  is  cooking,  melt  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  for  4  or  5  minutes.  When 
ready,  place  the  fish  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  liquor  over  the  flour  and 
butter,  and  stir  until  it  boils  and  becomes  smooth.  Season  to  taste, 
pour  over  the  fish,  and  serve. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  2s.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to  September,  but  in  the 
best  condition  in  August. 

THE  TROUT  (Fr.  truite),  the  name  given  to  various  species  of  the  Salmonidae,  or  salmon  family 
especially  to  the  common  trout  (Salmo  fario),  which  abounds  in  many  of  the  rivers,  lakes  and  clear 
running  streams  of  Britain  and  northern  Europe.  The  colour  of  the  trout  is  yellowish-brown  above 
varied  with  reddish-brown,  and  crimson  spots  on  the  lateral  line  ;  the  abdomen  is  silvery-white,  while  a 
rich,  golden-yellow  extends  along  the  under  part  of  the  sides.  The  flesh  and  tint  of  the  trout  vary 
in  different  localities.  In  weight,  the  common  trout  averages  about  i  Ib.  Towards  the  end  of  Sep- 
tember trout  quit  the  deep  water  to  which  they  have  retired  in  the  hot  weather — the  trout  is  very 
partial  to  shady  nooks— for  the  purpose  of  spawning  on  the  gravelly  bottoms  of  rivers  or  streams. 
During  the  spawning  season  trout  become  soft  and  unwholesome  as  food.  Other  species  of  trout  are 
the  Lochleven  trout  peculiar  to  that  loch,  of  larger  dimensions  than  the  common  trout,  and  forming 
a  distinct  species ;  the  Great  Lake  trout,  common  in  some  of  the  large  lakes  of  England  and  Ireland, 
sometimes  attaining  to  a  considerable  size  and  weight— in  colour  it  is  dark-brown,  with  a  purple  tint ; 
and  the  salmon  trout,  which,  like  the  salmon,  migrates  to  the  sea  and  returns  to  spawn  in  the  rivers. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    FISH 

678.— TURBOT  WITH  AUBERGINES.      (Fr.—  Turbot 
aux  Aubergines.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  turbot  (middle  cut),  2  ozs.  of  butter,  the  juice 
of  |  a  lemon,  i  tablespoonful  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  meat  glaze,  3  aubergines,  salt  and  pepper,  flour,  milk,  olive-oil,  and 

:tied  butter. 

Method. — Remove  the  dark  skin  from  the  fish,  free  it  from  bones, 
and  cut  it  into  6  or  8  even-sized  slices.  Trim  these  neatly,  season  with 
and  pepper,  dip  them  into  milk,  and  then  into  flour.  Melt  about 
i£  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  place  in  the  fillets  of  turbot,  cover  with 
a  buttered  paper,  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  15  minutes,  or  longer  if 
needed,  bast.  Remove  the  skin  from  the 

aubergines,    cut    them    into   slices,    dip    them   in    flour,   and   fry   a 
golden-brown  in  a  frying-pan  containing  olive-oil  and  clarified  bu 

!  proportions.     Drain  them  and  season  with  salt.     Dress  the 
turlxjt   on  .m  oblong  dish,  sprinkle  over  the  lemon-juice,   then 

.md  lastly  some  nut-brown  clarified  butter.     Garnish  with  the 
1  aubergines.     Just  before  serving  sprinkle  the  previously  hea 
:  glaze  over  the  fish. 

Time. — About  |  hour.  Attract  Cost,  3*.  6d.  to  45.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  :ne. 

679.— TURBOT,    BAKED   FILLETS   OF.    (Fr.— Filets 
de  Turbot  au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  cold  turbot,  lobster  sauce  left  from  the 
preceding  day,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste,  minced 
parsley,  nutmeg,  lemon- jr. 

Method. — After  having  cleared  the  fish  from  all  skin  and  bone,  c! 

to  square  pieces  of  an  equal  size  ;  brush  them  over  with  egg,  sprinkle 

with  breadcrumbs  mixed  with  a  lit  tic  minced  parsley  and  seasoning.  Lay 

nllets  in  a  baking-dish,  with  sufficient  butter  to  baste  them  with. 

minutes,  and  keep  >  well  moistened  with  butter, 

L  little  lemon- juice  and  grated  nutmeg  to  the  cold  lobster  sauce  ; 

hot,  and  pour  over  the  fish,  which  must  be  well  drained  fi 

h  with  parsley  and  cut  lemon. 
Time.— From  30  to  40  minutes.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

-Cold  turbot  thus  warmed  in  the  remains  of  lobster  sauce  will  be 
er  than  if  the  fish  were  put  again  in  water. 

680.— TURBOT,  BOILED.     (Fr.— Turbot  bouilli.) 

Ingredients. —  i  medium-sized  turbot,  salt  and  pepper. 
Method,     i  mptj  the  lish,  trim    the  fins,  but  do  not  cut 

gelatinous  parts  about  them  are   esteci  eat 

Make  ai  \\  down  the  middle  of  the  back,  to  lessen 


4oo  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

the  possibility  of  the  skin  on  the  white  side  cracking  ;  and  rub  the  white 
side  of  the  fish  with  a  cut  lemon  to  increase  its  whiteness.  Have  ready 
the  turbot-kettle,  with  as  much  hot  water  as  will  cover  the  fish,  add 
salt  to  taste,  put  in  the  fish,  bring  gradually  to  near  boiling  point,  then 
simmer  very  gently  from  15  to  20  minutes.  Garnish  with  lobster 
coral,  parsley,  and  cut  lemon,  and  serve  with  Hollandaise,  anchovy, 
shrimp  or  lobster  sauce. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes,  after  the  water  boils.  Average  Cost,  75.  6d. 
to  153.  Sufficient  for  8  or  10  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  TURBOT  (Fr.  turbot)  is  the  most  highly-esteemed,  and,  next  to  the  halibut,  the  largest  of  the 
flat-fish  found  on  the  British  coasts.  It  frequently  attains  a  very  large  size  weighing  from  50  Ib. 
to  90  Ib.  The  North  Sea  and  the  south-eastern  coasts  of  England  are  the  principal  fishery  grounds 
for  turbot.  The  flesh  of  the  turbot  is  firm,  white,  and  gelatinous,  and  is  improved  by  being  kept 
a  day  cr  two  before  being  cooked.  Halibut  is  frequently  sold  for  turbot ;  the  two  fish  are,  however, 
sufficiently  distinct,  the  upper  parts  of  the  former  being  quite  smooth  and  covered  with  oblong  soft 
scales,  which  firmly  adhere  to  the  body,  while  those  of  the  turbot  are  marked  with  large,  unequal, 
and  obtuse  tubercles. 

68 1. —TURBOT  WITH  CREAM  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Turbot 
a  la  Crime.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  cold  turbot,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of 
flour,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  a  pinch  of  ground  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones  and  skin  from  the  fish,  and  separate 
it  into  large  flakes.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,add  the  flour,  and  cook 
for  5  minutes  ;  then  pour  in  the  milk,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  let  it  after- 
wards simmer  gently  for  10  minutes.  Strain  and  return  to  the  stew- 
pan,  put  in  the  fish,  and  let  it  become  thoroughly  hot,  then  add  the 
lemon-juice,  cream,  and  seasoning  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d.,  exclusive  of  the 
fish.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

682.— TURBOT  WITH  ITALIAN  SAUCE,FILLETS  OF. 
(Fr.— Filets  de  Turbot  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  cold  turbot,  Italian  sauce  (No.  252). 

Method. — Clear  the  fish  carefully  from  the  bone,  and  take  away  all 
the  skin,  which  gives  an  unpleasant  flavour  to  the  sane 3.  Make  the 
sauce  hot,  lay  in  the  fish  to  warm  through,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Garnish 
with  croutons. 

Time. — 5  minutes.     Seasonable  all  the  year. 

683.— TURBOT  AU  GRATIN. 

Ingredients. — Remains  of  cold  turbot,  Bechamel  (see  Sauces),  or  any 
good  white  sauce,  breadcrumbs,  butter. 

Method. — Cut  the  flesh  of  the  turbot  into  small  dice,  carefully  freeing 
it  from  all  skin  and  bone.  Put  the  dice  into  a  stewpan,  and  moisten 
with  4  or  5  tablespoonfuls  of  Bechamel  sauce.  Let  it  get  thoroughly 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKINV.    FISH  401 

hot,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Spread  the  mixture  on  a  dish,  cover 
with  linely-.urated  l»n»\vm-d  breadcrumbs,  and  pi. ice  small  pieces  of 
butt  he  top.  Brown  it  in  tl.  r  with  a  salamander. 

Time. — Altogether,  £  an  hour.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 


684.— TURBOT    WITH    WINE,    PAUPIETTES    OF. 
(Fr. — Paupiettes  de  Turbot  au  Vin  Blanc.) 

Ingredients. — 2\  to   3   Ib.  of  turbot,  \  a    Ib.   of  whiting  forcemeat, 
;i5).  i  shallot,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  6  pn  ushrooms,  3  to 

4  ozs.  of  butter,  2  small  glasses  of  Oiablis  or  Sauterne, 
\  a  pint  <»i    Yeloin-  :nande   sauce,   \  a  gill    of  double  « 

\  a  lemon,  pepper  and 

Method.  the  tillets  from  the  bones  of  tl 

uhite   and    the    bl.iek   skin,    ll.itten   each    pic*  r    with    a    wet 
and   (lit    n:  llets   about    tl. 

nllet    a^'iin,  turn    ne.ulv  and    season  \\itli 
1  salt,      (hop  \J  the  peeled  sli.dlnt.   th<-   j- 

i  K>ms,  an«  1 
on  one  side  of  pared  til!  roll  up  n< 

up  each   lillet    in   paper.      A: 
a  an  upright  posi  \>  saut6-] 

3  ozs.  of  melted  butter;  place  the  lid  on  the  pan,  cook  for 
minutes  in   the  oven;    then  add   tin-  1   the  stock, 

cooking  in  the  oven  until  done.     Baste  occasionally  with  the  1 
As  SOOn  as  the  tillrts  are  (lone  t.ike  them  up,  drai;  the  paper 

inudal    !  hot.     Add    the 

white    sauce   to  reduce  well,    K  :M     tinish    \\nli 

.      Add  a  lev,  •   lemon-)::  over  th« 

Time. — To  cook,  about  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5*.  od.  to  (>s.  6d. 
Sumcient  for  8  or  9  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  • 


685.— WATER    SOUCHET. 

Ingredients. — Flounders  soles,  perch  or  tcnrh. 

Method.     Any  of  the  alxivc-nan.  ill  l>o  found  suitable. 

•  into  a  stewpan  with  • 

\\  bunch  of  parsley  and  salt  to  Cook 

ne,   then   tra  ftsh  carefully   to  .. 

spoonful  of  nncly-cho; 

and  add   the  h.]uor,   then  srrvv.      Hrown  bread  and  b;.  ild  be 

•und. 


402  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

686.— WATER  SOUCHET.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Plaice,  flounders  or  perch,  parsley  and  parsley-roots, 
salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  trim  the  fish,  put  the  trimmings  and  2  or  3  fish 
into  a  stewpan  with  i  quart  of  water,  a  little  salt,  parsley,  and  a  few 
parsley-roots.  Simmer  until  all  is  quite  tender,  then  pass  through  a 
sieve  and  return  to  the  stewpan.  Cook  the  remaining  fish  slowly  in 
the  liquor,  and  when  done,  lift  out  carefully  into  a  deep  dish,  add  i 
teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  strain  the  liquor  over,  then  serve. 

687.     WHITEBAIT.     (Fr.— Blanchailles. ) 

Ingredients. — Whitebait,  ice,  flour,  cayenne,  salt,  frying  fat. 

Method. — The  frying  of  whitebait  is  a  most  difficult  task  for  cooks 
with  little  experience.  The  following  is  a  well-tried  method  which, 
if  carefully  followed,  never  fails  to  produce  satisfactory  results  :  Put 
the  whitebait  with  a  piece  of  ice  in  a  basin,  which  must  be  kept  on  the 
ice.  When  required  for  cooking,  spread  the  fish  on  a  cloth  to  drain, 
then  sprinkle  a  clean  cloth  with  flour,  put  a  small  quantity  of  whitebait 
on  this,  sprinkle  over  some  more  flour,  fold  the  cloth  and  shake  it  well, 
holding  the  ends  of  the  cloth  with  both  hands.  Turn  the  contents 
into  a  wire  drying  basket,  and  shake  it  so  as  to  get  rid  of  the  superfluous 
flour.  Plunge  the  basket  into  a  pan  of  clean,  very  hot  lard,  and  fry 
rapidly  over  a  bright  fire  for  3  or  4  minutes.  Keep  moving  the  basket 
all  the  time  the  frying  goes  on.  Take  up  the  basket,  shake  it  so  as  to 
strain  off  the  fat,  and  turn  the  fish  on  to  a  cloth  or  paper.  Repeat 
this  until  all  the  whitebait  are  fried.  Season  with  cayenne  or  black 
pepper,  and  fine  salt.  Dish  up  on  a  folded  napkin  or  lace  paper,  and 
send  the  fish  to  table  accompanied  with  quarters  of  lemon  and  thin 
slices  of  brown  bread  and  butter. 

Time. — From  3  to  4  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  per  quart.  Season- 
able from  January  to  September. 

WHITEBAIT  (Fr.  blanchaille).  This  diminutive  fish,  considered  a  great  delicacy  on  account  of  the 
tenderness  and  sweetness  of  its  flesh,  is  allied  to  the  herring,  and  was  formerly  thought  to  be  the  young 
of  that  fish,  but  the  shape  of  its  body  is  more  compressed.  It  is  of  a  pale  silvery  hue,  and  greenish 
on  the  back,  and  varies  in  length  from  2  ins.  to  5  ins.  The  whitebait  is  caught  during  the  spring 
and  summer  in  the  estuary  of  the  Thames,  in  the  Clyde,  and  other  rivers.  The  "  Whitebait  Dinner  •• 
of  the  members  of  the  Cabinet,  just  before  the  prorogation  of  Parliament,  at  the  Trafalgar,  Green- 
wich, was  an  annual  custom  of  some  standing,  but  it  is  now  discontinued. 

688.— WHITING,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Merlan  au  Gratin.) 

(See  Sole  au  Gratin,  No.  653,  use  skimmed  whiting,  and  proceed  in 
the  same  manner.) 

689.— WHITING  WITH    SWEET    HERBS,    BAKED. 

(Fr. — Merlan  aux  Fines  Herbes.) 
(See  Sole  with  Fin?  Herbs,  No.  654.) 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    FISH  403 

690.— WHITING,  BOILED.      (Fr.— Merlan  bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — Whiting,  salt. 

Method. — Clean  the  fish,  but  do  not  skin  them.     Have  ready  sufficient 

warm  water  to  cover  them,  salt  it  slightly,  put  in  the  fish,  bring  gently 

to  the  boil,  and  simmer  ior  7  or  8  minutes  (if  small).     Drain  well, 

on  a  folded  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  suitable 

sauce. 

Time. — 7  or  8  minutes  for  small  whiting.   Average  Cost,  ^d.  to  9d.  each. 
Allow  i  small  whiting  for  each  person.      Seasonable  all  the  year,  but 
:om  October  to  March. 

THE  WHITING  (Fr.  mtrla*).— This  well-known  fish  belongs  to  the  cod  family,  bat  is  destitute  of 
the  barbule  seen  in  the  cod  and  haddock.  Its  flesh  is  the  most  delicate  and  palatable  of  any  nsh  of 
its  tribe.  The  body  of  the  whiting  is  compressed,  and  the  upper  jaw  projects  beyond  the  lower. 
It  is  a  smaller  fish,  and  of  a  more  elegant  shape  than  the  haddock  ;  its  average  weight  is  i  J  Ib.  The 
whitiug  is  caught  in  abundance  on  the  British  coasts  and  in  the  northern  European  seas. 


691.— WHITING,  BROILED.     (Fr.— Merlan  Grille.) 

Ingredients.— Whiting,  a  little  oil  or  bu: 

Method.— Wash,   and    thoroughly  dry  the    fish.     Brush    them  over 
with  a  little  oil  or  melted  butter,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire. 

Time. — From  6  to  8  minutes,  for  a  small  whiting.     Avenge  Coil,  jd. 
to  oxi.  each.      Allow,   i   small  whiting  for   each    person.      Seasonable 
all   t! 
To  CHOOSE  WHITING.— Choose  lor  the  firmness  of  its  fle»h.  and  the  «flv«ry  hoe  of  its  , 


THE    POLLACK   (Fr.    Merlan).— Like  the  pout,  the  pollack  bears    a  strong  resemblance  to  the 
a  gregarious  fish  and  swims  in  shoals,  and  is  caught  off  the  coasts  of  Britain,  chiefly 
around  the  northern  parts.    The  flesh  of  the  poUack  is  good  eating.    It  i*  also  known  as  the  M  coal- 
fish,"  and  in  Scotland  it  bean  the  local  name  of  "  Lythe> 


692.— WHITING,  FRIED.      (Fr.— Merlan  Frit.) 

Ingredients.— 2    whiting,    i    egg,    breadcrumbs,    flour,   salt,    pepper, 
fry  ing-fat  or  oil. 

Method. — Wash,  clean,  and  dry  the  fish,  and  remo\  skins, 

and  fasten  the  tail  in  the  mouth  by  means  of   a  small  skewer.       Mix 

poonful  of  flour  with  salt   and  pepper,  and  rub  it  well   into 

:i  ;  then  brush  them  over  with  egg,  coat  them  with  breadcrumbs, 

and  fry  until  nicely  browned  in  hot  fat.     Serve  on  a  fish  paper,  garnished 

ried  par^ 

Time. — To  fry,  6  or  7  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d.  to  Qd.  each.     Sum 
cient,  i  small  whiting  for  each  person.     Seasonable  all  the  year,  but  best 
from  October  to  March. 

Tut  T  •  rrnr).  also  known  as  the  DIB  is  found  about  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  and  genet- 

;orthem  »cav     It  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  the 
md  is  frequently  called  the  WHITING  POUT.     The  pout  is  esteemed  as  an  excellent  table-fifth. 


GENERAL   REMARKS   ON 
COOKING    MEAT 

CHAPTER    XIII 

Instructions   for    Roasting,  Boiling,    Baking,  Stewing, 
Braising  and  Frying. 

The  Probability  is  that  the  Human  Race  for  a  long  period  in  the  early 
history  of  mankind  lived  upon  roots,  fruits,  raw  fish,  shell-fish,  birds' 
eggs,  small  reptiles,  and  insects.  When  man  acquired  the  art  of  fashion- 
ing weapons  from  the  flints  which  he  wrought  into  arrow-heads,  spear- 
points,  and  axes,  he  was  enabled  to  chase  and  slay  the  animals  around 
him,  and  thus  obtain  raw  meat.  A  survival  of  this  custom  is  seen 
in  the  name  of  the  Eskimo,  from  the  appellation  ESKIMANTSIC,  or 
"  raw-flesh-eaters,"  given  to  them  by  the  native  tribes  of  New  England, 
and  retained  in  the  French  form  of  the  word  ESQUIMAUX.  Bows  and 
arrows  have  been  found  among  the  natives  of  all  climates  and  latitudes, 
but  their  use  indicates  an  advancement  in  civilization  reached  only 
during  many  centuries.  The  early  period  of  man's  existence  is  divided 
into  four  epochs  or  ages,  not  implying,  however,  that  these  epochs  were 
simultaneously  reached  by  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  globe  in  their 
progress  towards  civilization,  for  there  are  still  races  in  their  stone  age. 
The  first  epoch  is  the  Paleolithic,  or  old  stone  age,  when  the  implements 
fashioned  by  man  were  sharp  chipped  flints.  To  this  succeeded  the 
Neolithic,  or  new  stone  age,  characterized  by  polished  stone  imple- 
ments, and  the  domestication  of  animals.  Next  followed  the  Bronze  age, 
with  its  weapons  and  articles  of  that  metal,  and  lastly  the  Iron  age,  with 
its  gradual  development  and  progress  in  the  arts  and  manufactures. 
The  successive  stages  through  which  man  has  advanced  to  civiliza- 
tion may  also  be  classified  in  three  divisions  :  Savage,  Barbarous,  and 
Civilized.  The  first  is  represented  by  the  savage  of  the  South  American 
forests,  who  lives  on  wild  plants  and  animals  ;  the  second  by  the 
African,  who  tills  the  ground  and  domesticates  animals  for  his  use; 
the  third  by  the  civilized  European,  associated  with  all  that  the  word 
civilization  denotes,  of  moral,  intellectual,  social,  and  material  de- 
velopment. 

The  duration  of  the  Paleolithic  Age  cannot  be  determined.  Un- 
polished stone  implements,  bone,  and  horn  have  been  found  associated 
with  the  bones  and  teeth  of  the  mammoth,  or  woolly-haired  elephant, 


\KKAL    RKMAKK>    ( >N    COOKING    MI.Ai        405 

and  other   wild  animals   long  extinct,   in    the  old  drift 
;    the  glacial    }>erk>d,    which    wv.  in    Kurope 

thousands  of    years    before    the    Neolithic  Ag-  I   even 

le  that  the   existence  of  man  may  date   from   a  still  earlier   pro 
1  period. 
The  Discovery  of  Fire  i^  lost  in  the  dim  ages  of  antiquity.      N 

found  so  low  in   the  scale  ithout 

its  possession  ;  even  among  the  relics  found  of  man's  existence  during 
the  mammoth  period,  fragments  of  charcoal  and  burnt  bones 

1.     The  methods  pursued  by  savage  races  for  producing 
e  by  the  friction  of  one  piece  of  wood  against  another,  i 
use  of  a  fire-drill,  c<  -fa  point'  ipidly 

in  a  hole  made  in  a  p-.<ve  of  wood,  or  by  means  of  a  species  of  bow-drill. 

by    this    primitive    method.      Later,    the    old    tire-drill    was    imp 
upon  by  the  flint  and  -  1  now  the  safety  match  in  coi 

of   kindling  a  fire  or  producing  a  light. 

.  h  value  is  the   possession   of  urn  for  warmth,    cook- 

is  food  and  other  purposes,   that   the  ancient   Greeks   in    their 
mythology  ascribed  its  origin  to  the  gods,  from  whom  Prometheus, 
the  brother  of  Atlas,  stole  it,  concealed  in  a  tube.     By  the  Parsis,  the 
nts  of  the  ai  ligion  of  Persia  or  Zoroast 

led  as  the  emblem  of  the  Divine  power,  and  its  worship  forms  a 

ligious  ritual. 

Fire  having  been  discovered,  mankind  endeavoured  to  make  use  of  it 
for  drying  and  afterwards  for  cooking  th 

.nces  employed  in  the  .»f  food  \\ 

contact  with 
o  become  smoked,  and  have  an  ui  -  di^ 

edicd  by  passing  spits  through  it,  and  j  ' 
above  the  burning  fuel.     Thus  grilling  was  : 
is  this  mode  of  cookery,  yet  all  meat  cooked  in  this  way 

r's  time  the  art  of  cookery  had 
not  advanced  much  beyond  the  method  of  roasting,  for  we  read 

.e  hero  Achilles  and  his  friend  Patrodus  regaled  the  three 
n leaders  on  1  .e,and  broiled  meat.    It  is  noticeable,  too, 

iomer  docs  not  speak  of  boiled  meat  anywhere  in  his  poems.      \\  •• 
read  in  the  Scriptures,  of  Sarah  cooking  her  cakes  on  the  hearth  ;  and  in 
to  the  ancient  Jews,  they  were  distinctly  direc- 
ted to  bring  cakes  "baked  in  the  •»•  have 
>  a  kind  of  pot,  sometimes  called  "  kail-pot,"  I 

t  was  a  vessel  completely  closed, 
isc  was  buried  bodily  in  hot  ashes.     The  trip*. 

n    record.     1 

d  wood  t  ^  the 

which  point  wa>  HIM  rtcd  an  iron  hook  to  hoi  adlc  of  the 


406  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Methods  of  Cooking  Meat. — Roasting,  baking,  boiling,  stewing,  braising, 
frying  and  grilling  are  the  usual  methods  of  cooking  animal  food.  To 
explain  the  philosophy  of  these  simple  operations,  we  must  notice 
the  effects  that  are  produced  by  heat  on  the  principal  constitutents 
of  flesh.  When  finely  chopped,  mutton  or  beef  is  soaked  for  some  time 
in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  and  then  subjected  to  slight  pressure, 
the  juice  of  the  meat  is  extracted,  and  there  is  left  a  white,  tasteless 
residue,  consisting  chiefly  of  muscular  fibre.  When  this  residue  is 
heated  to  between  180°  and  200°  F.,  the  fibres  shrink  together,  and 
become  hard  and  horny.  The  influence  of  a  higher  temperature  on 
the  soluble  extracts  is  not  less  remarkable.  When  the  watery  infusion 
which  contains  the  nutritive  constituents  of  the  meat  is  gradually 
heated,  it  soon  becomes  turbid,  and,  when  the  temperature  reaches 
about  1 60°,  flakes  of  whitish  matter  separate.  These  flakes  are  ALBU- 
MIN, a  substance  precisely  similar  in  all  its  properties  to  the  white  of 
egg.  When  the  temperature  of  the  watery  extract  is  raised  to  158°, 
the  colouring  matter  of  the  blood  coagulates,  and  the  liquid,  which  was 
originally  tinged  red  by  this  substance,  is  left  perfectly  clear,  and 
almost  colourless.  When  evaporated,  even  at  a  gentle  heat,  this 
residual  liquid  gradually  becomes  brown,  and  acquires  the  flavour  of 
roast  meat.  The  fibres  of  meat  are  surrounded  by  a  liquid  which 
contains  albumin  in  its  soluble  state,  just  as  it  exists  in  the  unboiled 
egg.  During  the  operation  of  boiling  or  roasting  this  substance  coagu- 
lates. The  tenderness  of  well-cooked  meat  is  consequently  propor- 
tioned to  the  amount  of  heat  employed,  and  the  slight  or  complete 
coagulation  of  the  albumin  deposited  in  its  substance.  Meat  is  done 
when  it  has  been  heated  throughout  only  to  the  temperature  of  coagu- 
lating albumin,  provided  the  heat  is  continued  long  enough  ;  it  is 
thoroughly  done  when  it  has  been  heated  through  its  whole  mass  to 
the  temperature  at  which  the  colouring  matter  of  the  blood  coagulates  ; 
it  is  overdone  when  the  heat  has  been  continued  long  enough  to  harden 
the  fibres. 

During  the  operations  of  Boiling,  Roasting  and  Baking,  fresh  beef  and 
mutton,  when  moderately  fat,  according  to  Johnston,  lose,  on  an  average 
about  : — 

In  Boiling.  In  Baking.  In  Roasting. 

4  Ib.  of  beef  lose  i  Ib.          -..     i  Ib.  3  ozs.     ..     i  Ib.  5  ozs. 

4  Ib.  of  mutton  lose    14  ozs.       . .     i  Ib.  4  ozs.     . .      i  Ib.  6  ozs. 

More  recent  experiments  also  show  that  animal  matter  loses  more 
weight  by  roasting  than  by  boiling.  In  roasting,  the  loss  arises  from 
the  melting  out  of  the  fat  and  evaporation  of  water  ;  but  the  nutritious 
matter  remains  condensed  in  the  cooked  meat,  whereas,  in  boiling,  the 
gelatin  is  partly  abstracted.  Roast  meats  are  therefore  more  nutritious 
than  boiled  meats  ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  chemical  decomposition 
of  the  fat  of  roast  meats,  due  to  a  long  continued  exposure  to  an  intense 
heat,  they  are  less  easily  digested. 


GENERAL  REMARKS  ON    COOKING    MEAT          407 

Roasting. — In  roasting,  the  joint  must  be  suspended  where  the  rays 
of  heat  from  the  fire  may  fall  directly  upon  it.  In  localities  where  this 
excellent  and  wholesome  method  of  cooking  is  largely  practised,  kitchens 
are  provided  with  a  primitive  meat-screen,  a  three-leaved  folding 
"  hastener,"  lined  on  the  inside  with  a  bright  metal  which  reflects  the 
heat.  Therefore,  although  roasting  may  be  described  as  cooking  by 
radient  heat,  it  is  a  process  in  which  reflected  heat  plays  a  secondary 
and  by  no  means  unimportant  part.  By  many,  roasting  is  condemned 
as  an  extravagant  method  of  cooking.  Undoubtedly  meat  loses  con- 
siderably in  weight  when  roasted,  but  there  is  no  real  loss  ;  the  melted 
fat  remains  as  dripping  ;  any  meat  juice  which  escapes  coagulates  and 
forms  the  basis  of  the  gravy,  and  by  the  evaporation  of  water,  to  which 
the  greater  part  of  the  loss  is  due,  the  nutritives  of  the  meat  have  simply 
become  more  concentrated.  The  consumption  of  coal  in  roasting  is 
not  excessive  when  the  fire  is  properly  built  up.  Some  30  or  40  minutes 
before  the  fire  must  be  ready,  the  front  of  the  grate  should  be  filled 
with  small  lumps  of  coal,  and  the  back  with  a  few  lumps  mixed  with  a 
considerable  quantity  of  slightly-wetted  small  coal.  As  the  front 
of  the  fire  burns  away,  the  embers  from  the  back  can  be  brought  for- 
ward, and  small  coal  or  cinders  put  in  their  place,  thus  keeping  the 
front  of  the  fire  clear  and  bright.  Immediately  the  fire  is  made  up  the 
44  hastener,"  or  meat-screen,  should  be  drawn  around  it,  so  th 
surface  may  become  thoroughly  hot  before  the  meat  is  put  down  to 
roast.  When  the  fire  is  clear  and  bright  the  joint  should  be  placed 
quite  close  to  it  for  10  or  15  minutes  ;  and  as  soon  as  it  is  put  down 
it  should  be  well  basted  with  hot  dripping,  and  this  greatly  as> 
forming  an  impervious  surface  through  which  the  juices  of  the  meat 
cannot  escape.  The  joint  must  be  frequently  basted  during  the  first  half- 
hour,  and  afterwards  every  10  or  15  minutes.  When  properly  roasted 
and  sufficiently  basted,  the  joint  ought  to  be  nicely  browned  without 
the  aid  of  flour.  A  little  salt  and  pepper  is  sometimes  sprinkled  on 
the  joint  before  serving,  but  it  is  not  necessary.  It  was  considered 
an  improvement  to  the  gravy  when  the  old  custom  obtained  of  pouring 
a  little  over  the  joint. 

It  is  impossible  to  fix  the  exact  time  required  for  roasting  meat, 
>e  so  much  depends  upon  the  form  and  thickness  of  the  joint, 
and  its  age  and  condition.  The  general  rule  is  to  allow  15  minutes 
for  each  pound  of  beef  and  mutton,  and  15  minutes  over  ;  and  jo 
minutes  for  each  pound  of  veal  and  pork,  and  20  minutes  over.  Meat 
of  recently  killed  beasts  requires  longer  cooking  than  meat  which  has 
hung  for  some  tim<  :  rn  weather  joints  require  rather  less  time 

for  roasting  than  in  cold.      A  square  solid  piece  of  beef  will  not  cook 
as  quickly  as  a  shoulder  of  mutton  of  equal  weight  ;  and  rolled  and 
stuffed  meat  must  be  allowed  a  longer  time  than  if  the  joints  were  not 
:  in  this  manner. 

White  Meats,  and  the  Meat  of  Young  Animals,  require  to  be  very  \\<  11 


408  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

roasted,  both  to  be  pleasant  to  the  palate  and  easy  of  digestion.     Thus 
veal,  pork  and  lamb  should  be  thoroughly  done  to  the  centre. 

Mutton  and  Beef,  on  the  other  hand,  do  not,  generally  speaking, 
require  to  be  so  thoroughly  done,  and  they  should  be  cooked,  so 
that,  in  carving  them,  the  gravy  will  just  run,  but  not  too  freely. 
Of  course  in  this,  as  in  most  other  cases,  the  tastes  of  individuals 
vary;  and  there  are  many  who  cannot  partake,  with  satisfaction,  of 
any  joint  unless  it  is  what  others  would  call  overdressed. 

Baking. — Meat  baked  in  the  oven  has  never  the  same  delicious 
aromatic  flavour  as  when  roasted  in  front  of  the  tire,  but  with  care 
it  is  possible  to  have  a  baked  joint  with  a  good  flavour  and  a  well- 
browned  and  crisp  surface.  To  preserve  the  flavour  of  the  meat,  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  that  every  part  of  the  oven  should  be  kept  scru- 
pulously clean.  Nothing  can  brown  properly  or  become  crisp  in  too 
moist  an  atmosphere  ;  therefore  there  must  be  an  outlet  for  the  steam 
produced  by  the  evaporation  of  some  of  the  water  in  the  meat  ;  and 
if  the  construction  of  the  oven  does  not  provide  sufficient  ventilation, 
the  door  must  be  kept  partly  open  to  allow  the  steam  to  escape.  To 
ensure  perfectly  satisfactory  results,  a  proper  baking-tin  must  be  used. 
This  consists  of  a  double  tin,  the  upper  part  being  provided  with  a 
grid,  on  which  the  meat  rests,  thus  preventing  unnecessary  contact 
with  the  dripping.  The  lower  tin  is  filled  with  water,  which  prevents 
the  fat  in  the  upper  tin  burning,  and  giving  off  unpleasant  odours 
to  be  absorbed  by  the  meat,  and  which  would  spoil  its  flavour.  The 
principles  of  roasting  and  baking  are  exactly  the  same,  the  object  being 
in  both  processes  to  preserve  the  nutritive  qualities  of  the  meat  by 
preventing  the  escape  of  the  juices  of  the  meat.  Before  putting  the 
joint  in  the  oven  it  should  be  well  basted  with  hot  fat,  for  the  reason 
already  explained  in  reference  to  roasting  meat.  The  oven  should  be 
hot  for  the  first  10  or  15  minutes,  in  order  that  the  albumin  on  the 
surface  of  the  meat  may  be  quickly  coagulated  and  the  juices  of 
the  meat  retained.  The  temperature  must  then  be  lowered,  or  the 
meat  transferred  to  a  cooler  oven,  if  the  stove  is  provided  with  two. 
The  temperature  of  an  oven  may  be  quickly  reduced  by  drawing  away 
some  of  the  fire,  putting  in  the  dampers,  or  leaving  the  oven  door 
open.  Frequent  basting  is  as  essential  in  baking  as  in  roasting;  it 
not  only  keeps  the  meat  mellow  and  tender,  it  also  prevents  waste  by 
shrinkage,  and  by  washing  off  some  of  the  hardened  particles  it  pre- 
vents the  meat  becoming  too  brown,  while  at  the  same  time  it  provides 
a  deposit  to  be  afterwards  converted  into  good  gravy. 

The  time  required  for  baking  meat  is  the  same  as  for  roasting,  viz., 
15  minutes  to  each  Ib.  of  beef  and  mutton,  and  15  minutes  over  ; 
and  20  minutes  to  each  Ib.  of  pork  and  veal,  and  20  minutes  over,  with 
the  usual  allowances  for  form,  condition,  stuffing,  etc.,  which  common 
sense  or  experience  must  determine. 

Boiling. — Boiling  is  generally  considered  one  of  the  most  easy  and 


GENERAL    KKMAKKS    CM    COOKING    MEAT       409 

simple  processes  of  cookery.     Certainly  meat  cooked  in  a  pot  req<: 

•u-ntiMn.   and   too  frequently   r«  one  at   all,  as  is 

•  1  by  the  ragged  mutton  and  hard-ll.ivourless  1>  ich 

•cnn  HOI  in, iv  IT  i  <>nv«  tlv 

lit  when  boiled  than  when  roasted  or  baked,  there  is  r 
of  nntn: ;  ituents,  unless  both  the  meat  and  the  liquor  in  which 

it   i  be   consumed,    for   certain    nr 

es,  and  a  c«  •  quantity  of  gelatin,  are  abstracted  du- 

ett of  cooking,  and  remain  dissolved  in  the  When 

•d  to  be  eaten,  it  is  desirable  thar  tblc  mitrif 

•uld  be  retained,  and  this  is  effected,  as  in  roasting  and 

it  for  a  short  tim<  tly 

Iv  coagulate   the  surface  albumin,  thus  forming  an   un- 

which  prevents  the  escape  of  the  internal  ju 
and    most    effectually  excludes   the   water,   which,   by   dilutr 

•  's,  would   render   the   meat    insipid.     All   ii 
imn  mutes,  but  at  the 

ire  must  be  reduced,  and  the  surest  and  qu<. 
this  to  to  draw  the  pot  aside  and  add  cold 
until  the  water  in  the  pot  ceases  to  boil.  One  pint  of  cold  Mild 

<•  the  contents  of  a  large  boiling  pot.     When   i 
possible  to  choose,  the  one  selected  shoul 
must  be  kept  co 

•ils  away,  in 
The    a«'  "f    such  rnip,    cai 

is  a  decided  impi « 

but  they  should  never  be  used  in  sufficiently  l.irge  quantities  to  «• 
tural   flavour.     Turnip  must   bo  al  .ringly   0 

>ssesses  the  peculiar  property  »•? 

omes  in  contact  v  usefully 

that  purpose.     In  one  respect,  boiling  is  more  economic..  ;her 

roas-  when  once  the  right  point  is  reached  a  very  small 

will  maintain  the  proper  temperature.     Any  heat  in  excess  of 
is  wasted,  and  the  benefit  of   slow  progressive  cooking  is  lo- 

:  lit  inn,  and   * 

hardens  the  fibres  of  the  n 
and  renders  i 

u'  rneat  is  from  20  to  25  minut< 
lb    <>f  meat.  .:  to  the  s< 

km<l  of  meat  ;  pork  requires  longer  boiling  than  beef  or  mutton,  and 
salt  han  fresh  meat. 

Salt   Meals.— Salt  beef,  salt  pork,  pickled  pork,  toni;  hams 

s  be  put  into  warm  wa 

cold  wat 
ham-  and  tonmiei  must   U-  -...ik-d  1:1  COM   wmt«    fol    ftl   1-   •    '    12  bt    .•  • 


410  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

before  cooking.  Any  kind  of  salt  meat  intended  to  be  served  cold 
will  be  more  mellow  and  juicy  if  allowed  to  remain  in  the  liquor  until 
cold  ;  but  this  practice  cannot  be  recommended  in  warm  weather 
unless  the  meat  will  be  quickly  consumed,  for  the  large  amount  of 
moisture  it  contains  soon  renders  it  unfit  for  use. 

Stewing. — This  process  of  cooking  may  be  defined  as  "  simmering 
in  a  small  quantity  of  liquid."  Undoubtedly  it  is  the  most  economical 
method  of  cooking  meat,  not  only  on  account  of  the  small  amount  of 
fuel  required  to  keep  up  the  gentle  simmering,  but  also  because  tough, 
coarse,  inexpensive  kinds  of  meat  may,  by  this  long,  slow  continuous 
process,  be  rendered  tender  and  palatable.  There  is  practically  no 
loss  of  nutritive  constituents,  for  everything  abstracted  f -om  the  meat 
is  contained  in  the  gravy.  The  fibres  of  coarse  meat  should  never  be 
exposed  to  a  higher  temperature  than  160°  F. ;  simmering  point  is 
180°  F.,  boiling  point,  212°  F.  To  cook  meat  at  this  comparatively 
low  temperature  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  vessel  containing 
it  should  be  provided  with  a  lid  fitting  so  closely  that  the  steam  cannot 
escape  ;  or  failing  this,  2  or  3  thicknesses  of  greased  paper  must  be 
placed  under  the  lid.  Lean  meat  alone  is  suitable  for  stewing,  more 
particularly  when  the  liquid  is  thickened  with  flour,  which  prevents 
the  fat  rising  to  the  surface  of  the  liquid.  In  consequence  of  not 
being  able  to  remove  the  fat  by  skimming,  stews  are  apt  to  disagree 
with  those  who  are  in  the  least  inclined  to  dyspepsia  ;  but  when  made 
of  lean  meat  they  are  easily  digested.  A  few  rough  trimmings  of 
vegetables  should  be  added  to  flavour  the  stew;  but  it  is  better 
to  cook  the  vegetables  to  be  served  with  it  separately,  for  the  low 
temperature  at  which  the  meat  stews  destroys  the  colour  of  both 
carrots  and  turnips.  When  the  meat  is  very  coarse  its  fibres  may  be 
softened  either  by  adding  a  little  vinegar  to  the  stew,  or  by  pouring 
a  little  over  the  meat  and  allowing  it  to  soak  in  it  for  at  least  an  hour 
before  cooking.  But  when  the  meat  is  tender  if  it  is  quickly  fried 
on  both  sides  before  it  is  stewed,  it  has  both  a  better  appearance  and 
flavour. 

No  definite  rule  as  to  time  can  be  given  ;  stews  may  be  allowed  to 
cook  gently  from  4  to  5  hours,  but  longer  cooking  usually  reduces  the 
fibres  of  beef  and  mutton  to  a  stringy,  thread-like  mass,  so  hardened 
that  they  cannot  be  digested,  and  consequently  afford  no  nourishment. 
Stews  cannot  cook  too  slowly  ;  it  is  not  necessary  that  there  should  be 
the  least  ebullition,  but  there  must  be  sufficient  heat  applied  to  evapo- 
rate the  liquid  and  fill  the  vessel  with  steam,  otherwise  the  meat  is  not 
cooking. 

Braising. — This  excellent  method  of  cooking  is  a  combination  of 
roasting  and  stewing,  for  when  a  properly  constructed  pan  is  used 
heat  is  applied  from  above  by  means  of  a  depressed  lid  on  which 
charcoal  is  burnt.  When  meat  is  braised  in  an  ordinary  stewpan  it  is 
simply  placed  on  a  foundation  of  vegetables  surrounded,  but  not 


GENERAL    REMARKS    ON    COOKING    MEAT       411 

covered,  with  stock.  The  meat  does  not  come  in  contact  with  the 
liquid,  but  becomes  thoroughly  flavoured  with  the  vegetables,  and 
by  long  slow  cooking  in  the  steam  is  rendered  tender  and  digestible, 
it  is  then  placed  in  a  quick  oven  and  browned  and  crisped  before 
serving. 

Frying. — From  the  appended  table  it  will  be  seen  that  all  fats  and 
oils  do  not  boil  at  the  same  temperature.  In  ordinary  houses  ther- 
mometers for  testing  the  heat  for  cooking  are  not  available,  but  the 
table  given  is  instructive  without  their  aid — at  least  it  should  make 
he  reason  why  it  is  so  much  more  difficult  to  fry  in  a  small  quantity 
of  butter  than  in  a  corresponding  amount  of  fat  o. 

BOILING  POINT  OF  FAT  AND  OILS 

Butter  boils  at      150*    F. 

Lard  „          210°   „ 

Clarified  Fat,       „          250°    „ 
Oil  390-400°    „ 

y  liquids  boil  at  a  lower  temperature  than  water  (212°)  ;  thus 

you  may,  with  impunity,  dip  your  finger  in  boiling  spirits  of 

you  would  take  it  very  quickly  from  boiling  brandy  ;  still  more  rapidly 

from  water  ;  whilst  the  effect  of  the  most  rapid  immersion  in  boiling 

oil  need  not  be  mentioned.     As  a  consequence  of  this,  heated  fluids  act 

differently  on  the  savoury  bodies  presented  to  them.     A  small  ball  of 

butter,  thickly  coated  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  maybe  fried  r 

fat  or  oil  and  retain  its  form,  but  if  dropped  into  a  stewpan  of  boiling 

it  would  quickly  melt,  and  mingle  with  it,  because  t  would 

not  be  hot  enough  to  immediately  coagulate  the  albumin  of  the  egg 

and  thus  imprison  the  butter,  and  effectually  exclude  the  water.     Fat 

l>e  heated  to  a  much  higher  temperature  than  is  necessary  for 

ry  frying  purposes.    Anyone  experienced  can  tell  exactly  by  the 

appearance  of  the  fat,  and  by  the  amount  of  blue  smoke  arising  from 

••n  the  requisite  degree  of  heat  is  reached.     This,  of  course,  varies 

Mich  things  as  rissoles  and  fish  cakes,  made  principally 

of  cooked  materials,  need  simply  browning  and  heating  through,  and 

conse-  nay  be  cooked  in  very  hot  fat.     But  such  a  prepa 

as  cheese  fritters  or  raw  substances  like  fillets  of  fish  must  be  fried  in 

lower  temperature  to  allow  the  material  to  be  fully  cooked  before 

I  becomes  too  brown.     The  heat  of  the  fat  may  be  tested  by 

frying  a  piece  of  bread  ;  if  it  turns  brown  immediately  the  temperature 

is  suitable  for  such  things  as  need  browning  and  ••,  and  for 

potatoes  which  require  a  high  degree  of  heat,  owing  to  the  large  pro- 

•ntaincd  in  them  ;  but  for  raw  materials  the 

ic  bread  at  once  hardens,  and  acquires  a  pale 

golden- brown  colour.  It  should,  however,  be  remembered  that  the 
intmd'.K -non  of  any  cold  substance  immediately  lowers  the  tempo; 

iutes  the  heat  i. 


412  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


pan  may  safely  be  increased.  Only  a  small  quantity  of  anything  should 
be  fried  at  one  time,  and  the  fat  must  be  heated  to  a  proper  temperature 
before  frying  a  second  lot.  There  are  two  distinct  methods  of  frying, 
known  respectively  as  deep  or  wet  frying,  and  dry  frying. 

Deep  Frying. — In  this  process  the  materials  fried  must  be  completely 
covered  by  hot  fat.  An  iron  or  steel  stewpan  or  saucepan  may  be 
used  ;  and  for  such  things  as  rissoles,  croquettes,  lobster  cutlets,  fish 
cakes,  etc.,  a  wire  basket  or  wire  drainer  is  necessary  ;  fillets  of  fish  are 
generally  dropped  into  the  hot  fat  from  the  fingers,  and  taken  out  on  a 
fish  slice.  Everything  fried  should  be  transferred  from  the  fat  to  a 
sheet  of  clean  paper  and  thoroughly  drained  before  serving. 

Dry  Frying. — Meat  fried  in  a  shallow  pan  with  a  comparatively  small 
quantity  of  fat  may  be  rendered  hard  and  indigestible  by  this  process 
if  the  mistake  be  made  of  putting  the  meat  into  a  cold  frying-pan,  or 
into  the  fat  before  it  is  hot  enough  to  coagulate  the  albumin  on  its  sur- 
face. Fillets  of  beef  and  veal,  and  mutton  and  veal  cutlets  are  gener- 
ally cooked  in  this  manner,  and  with  a  protective  covering  of  egg  and 
breadcrumbs  they  may  be  subjected  to  intense  heat  without  hardening 
their  fibres  to  an  injurious  extent.  The  side  to  be  dished  upwards 
should  be  fried  first,  because  the  side  cooked  first  invariably  presents 
a  better  appearance.  The  frying  should  be  done  rapidly,  and  the  fry- 
ing-pan frequently  shaken  to  prevent  the  contents  sticking  and  burning 
to  the  bottom  of  it. 

Frying-Fat. — For  all  ordinary  purposes  clarified  fat  may  be  recom- 
mended. It  is  made  from  beef  and  mutton  suet,  cut  into  small  pieces, 
and  simmered  in  a  little  water  until  all  the  fat  is  extracted,  and  then 
strained.  2  Ib.  of  fat  are  obtained  from  3  Ib.  of  suet  ;  unless  the  suet 
can  be  bought  cheaply,  it  may  be  a  little  more  expensive  than  lard. 
Oil  is  excellent  for  frying  purposes,  but  it  requires  more  careful  handling 
than  the  fats,  for  unless  heated  gently  over  a  slow  fire,  it  has  a  tendency 
to  rise  quickly  and  boil  over.  Lard  sometimes  imparts  an  unpleasant 
flavour,  but  the  chief  objection  to  its  use  is  the  fatty  odour  which  lingers 
long  after  the  lard  has  cooled.  Frying-fat  after  being  used  should, 
WHEN  COOL,  be  strained.  The  fat  may  be  used  over  and  over  again 
until  it  becomes  discoloured,  and  discoloration  may  in  some  measure 
be  prevented  by  occasionally  boiling  the  fat  in  plenty  of  water  for  £  an 
hour.  When  slightly  cool,  both  fat  and  water  should  be  poured  into 
a  basin  ;  and  as  soon  as  the  cake  of  fat  is  firm  all  the  impurities  should 
be  scraped  off  the  bottom,  and  the  fat  melted  again  to  evaporate  every 
particle  of  water. 

Grilling. — Grilling,  or  broiling,  as  it  is  sometimes  termed,  is  the  most 
perfect  way  of  cooking  chops  and  steaks.  A  sharp  clear  fire  is  neces- 
sary in  order  that  the  outside  may  be  quickly  hardened,  and  thus  pre- 
vent the  escape  of  the  juices  of  the  meat.  Grilling  may  be  done  either 
over  the  fire  or  before  it  on  a  gridiron  contrived  for  the  purpose.  Any 
ordinary  gridiron  may  be  used  for  cooking  over  the  fire  ;  before  being 


r.KNKRAL    REMARKS    OX    COOKING    MKAT 

used  it  should  be  heated,  and  its  bars  well  riiblx?d  with  paper,  and  after- 
wards with  a  little  fat  or  suet.  Whatever  is  being  grilled  must  be 
repeatedly  turned,  by  means  of  steak-tongs,  or,  failing  these,  a  fork 
put  into  the  fat  of  the  meat,  for  if  the  lean  be  pierced  the  juio 

•  through  the  holes  thus  mado.  This  cooking  process  is  suited 
only  to  small  portions  of  meat,  or  kidneys,  bones,  lisa,  mushrooms, 
tomatoes,  etc. 

SUMMARY   OF  GENERAL   RULES 

(1)  One  general  rule  is  that  meat  should  never  be  washed,  but  there 

.1   three  s  to  the  rule.  viz.  : — 

(a)  \  coal  to  remo\  m  of 

putr 

(b)  When  meat  has  been  over-sal  ted,  and  it  is  necessary 

the  of  salt. 

(c)  1  <1  liver  before  they  are  cut  into  slices  :  the 

both  being  prote  iMtold\\ 

does  not  deprive  them  of  their  nutriti\ 

(2)  In  ro  ,'  an  intense  heat  must  U>  applied  to  all 

f«>r  10  or  15  minutes,  and  the  tern]  :  wards 

considerably  redu« 

(3)  In  boiling,  fresh  meat  should  be  put  into  boiling  water,  boiled 

and  then  cold  liquid  added  to  r- 

ling  water  hardens  the  meat, 

rm  water- 
placed  in  r,  which  will  extract  some  of  t  also  a 

•I  the  m. 

(4)  1  rocess  must  be  Ion 

'."ie-litting    lid,    ft] 
.ntervenn  of  greas' 

(5)  In  t:  fat  Ivfoi 

ven  things  which  require  a  conr  1<>\\  tei 

1  things  to  be  fried  must  be  added  to  the  iat  gradually,  to 
mperattire  too  suddenly.     The  fat  i 

ire  before  pir  a  second 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS 
ON    QUADRUPEDS 

CHAPTER    XIV 

General  Notes  on  Mammalia  and  the  different  breeds 
of  Cattle  and  their  characteristics,  observations  on 
veal  and  beef,  and  tables  of  prices  and  weights  of 
joints,  etc. 

The  Empire  of  Nature  has  been,  by  general  assent,  divided  into  three 
great  divisions  or  kingdoms  :  the  first  consisting  of  minerals,  the  second 
of  vegetables,  and  the  third  of  animals.  The  Mineral  Kingdom  com- 
prises all  inorganic  objects  devoid  of  life,  but  having  a  definite  chemical 
composition,  consisting  of  either  a  single  element,  as  silver,  or  of  two 
or  three  of  these  elements  combined,  as  sodium  chloride  or  common 
salt.  When  not  mixed  with  any  other  substances,  minerals  are  com- 
posed of  similar  particles,  and  if  they  possess  a  definite  shape,  are 
characterized  by  the  geometric  form  their  crystals  assume,  although 
all  minerals  are  not  distinctly  crystalline.  Minerals  enter  into  the 
composition  of  the  rocks,  which  constitute  the  solid  portion  of  our 
globe,  and  guard  the  land  against  the  encroachments  of  the  sea. 

The  Vegetable  Kingdom  covers  and  beautifies  the  earth  with  an  endless 
variety  of  form  and  colour.  It  consists,  with  some  exceptions,  of 
organic  bodies  which  grow  by  the  assimilation  of  inorganic  sub- 
stances, as  water,  carbonic  acid,  and  ammonia,  forming  out  of  these 
organic  complex  substances,  as  sugar,  starch,  cellulose,  etc.  In  the 
process  of  digestion  plants  break  up  carbonic  acid  into  its  two  elements 
of  oxygen  and  carbon,  setting  free  the  former  which  is  required  for 
the  sustenance  of  animal  life,  and  retaining  the  carbon  necessary  for 
vegetable  life.  The  higher  orders  of  plants  are  chiefly  nourished  by 
means  of  roots,  breathe  by  the  medium  of  leaves,  and  are  propagated 
by  seeds. 

The  Animal  Kingdom  in  its  lower  types  is  closely  allied  to 
the  Vegetable  Kingdom,  both  of  these  constituting  the  organic 
series  of  natural  objects.  The  bodies  of  each  are  composed  of  proto- 
plasm, the  basis  of  all  life,  a  substance  formed  of  carbon,  hydrogen, 
nitrogen  and  oxygen.  The  nature  and  method  of  assimilating  their 
food  is  the  only  means  by  which  the  distinction  between  plants  and 
animals  in  their  lowest  forms  car.  be  clearly  determined  :  the  former 
subsisting  on  inorganic,  and  the  latter  on  organic,  matter. 

In  the  case  of  the  higher  animals  and  plants,  it  is  easy  to  assign  any 
individual  to  its  proper  place  in  Nature,  but  it  is  almost  impossible 


414 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS    ON     QUADRUPEDS    415 

to  fix  the  precise  limits  of  the  types  which  connect  the  two  great  King- 
doms together,  and  to  determine  where  vegetable  life  ends  and  animal 
Hie  begins.     In  respect  of  form,  internal  structure,  power  of  motion, 
they  closely  resemble  each  other  as  in  the  case  of  the  DIATOMACEAE 
and  DESMIDIAE,  two  of  the  lower  order  of  miscroscopic  plants,  and  the 
sea-anemones,    sea-mats,   sponges,    corals,    etc.     Like    the    Vegetable 
lorn,  animals  are  limited  to  certain  areas  by  the  conditions  of 
climate  and  soil,  the  environment  of  an  animal  determining  its  de- 
ment and  survival.     There  are  various  systems  of  classification 
of  animals.      Linnaeus  divided  them  into  six  great  classes  :  Mammalia, 
phibious  Animals,   Insects  and   Worms.     Cuvicrs' 
scientific  arrangement  comprised  the  four  sub- Kingdoms,  Vcrte- 
brata,  Mollusca,  Articulata,  and  Radiata.     The  classifications  of  more 
recent  times  have  been  largely  determined  by  the  consideration  of  the 
forms  of  animals  as  influenced  by  evolution,  and  the  facts  of  heredity 
and   adaptation   to   their   environment.     The  late   Professor   Huxley 
1    the   Animal    Kingdom   into   the  sub-Kingdoms,   Vcrtcbrata, 
Annuloda,  Annuloida,  Coelenterata,  Infusoria,  and  Protozoa. 

MAMMALIA 

animals  comprises  all  the  ordinary  quadrupeds 

incltui  ->e  vertebrate  animals  in  which  some  part  or  other  of  the 

skin,  during  some  portion  of  life,  is  pr<  ;h  hair,  and  whose  young 

•or  a  longer  or  shorter  period  by  means  of  a  special  fluid- 
milk.  i  iy  special  glands.     The  mammalia  have  warm  blood,  Le., 

blood  the  normal  temperature  of  which  is  usually  retained  in 

^  the  mammalia  arc  classed  the  whales,  dolphins  and 
porpoises,  whose  bodies  are  particularly  adapted  for  aquat : 
like  the  rest  of  the  class,  nourish  their  young  by  their  milk.     The  heart 
of  mammals  is  similar  to  that  of  birds,  and  has  four  distinct  chambers, 
iricles  and  two  ventricles,  and  respiration  is  carried  on  by  means 
o  lungs  situated  in  the  chest  ca\ 

The   following   are   the   general   characteristics   of   the   Mammalia, 
-iced  above,  the  bodies  of  nearly  the  whole  class  are  covered 
with  hair — a  kind  of  clothing  which  is  both  soft  and  warm,  little  liable 
to  injury,  and  bestowed  in  proportion  to  the  necessities  of  the  animal, 
.mate  of  the  country  it  inhabits,  and  the  nature  of  its  environ- 
In  all  the  higher  orders  of  animals,  the  head  is  the  principal 
f  the  organs  of  sense.     In  it  are  placed  the  eyes,  the  cai 
nose,  and  the  mouth.     Through  the  last  they  re  ;r  nourishment. 

OS  the  teeth,  which,  in  most  of  the  mammalia,  arc 
used  not  only  for  the  mastication  of  food,  but  also  as  weapons    of 
inserted      into     two     movable     jaws,     and 
ncisors  are  so  placed  that  their  sharp  edges  may 
easily  be  brought  in  contact  with  the  food,  in  order  that  its  fibres  may 


416      HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

readily  be  separated.  Next  to  these,  on  each  side,  are  situated  the 
canine  teeth  or  tusks,  which  are  longer  than  the  other  teeth,  and  being 
pointed  are  specially  adapted  ior  tearing  food.  In  the  back  of  the  jaws 
are  placed  another  form  of  teeth,  called  molars,  or  grinders.  Their 
use  is  to  masticate  the  food  ;  in  animals  that  live  on  vegetables 
the  molars  are  flattened  at  the  top  ;  but  in  the  carnivora,  their  upper 
surfaces  are  furnished  with  sharp-pointed  protuberances.  The  num- 
bers, form,  and  disposition  of  the  teeth  constitute  most  important 
characteristics  for  separating  the  various  orders  of  the  mammalia 
from  one  another.  The  nose  is  a  cartilaginous  body,  pierced  with  two 
holes,  which  are  called  nostrils.  Through  these  the  animal  is  affected 
by  the  sense  of  smell  ;  in  some  animals  this  organ  is  prominent,  whilst 
in  others  it  is  flat,  compressed,  turned  upwards,  or  bent  downwards. 
In  beasts  of  prey  the  nose  is  frequently  longer  than  the  lips  ;  and  in 
some  other  animals,  as  the  elephant,  it  is  elongated  into  a  movable 
trunk  or  proboscis,  whilst  in  the  rhinoceros  it  is  armed  with  a  horn. 
The  eyes  of  quadrupeds  are  generally  defended  by  movable  lids,  on  the 
outer  margins  of  which  are  fringes  of  hair  called  eyelashes.  The  open- 
ing of  the  pupil  is  in  general  circular  ;  but  in  some  species,  as  in  those 
of  the  cat  and  hare,  it  is  contracted  into  a  perpendicular  line  ;  in  the 
horse,  the  ox,  and  a  few  others,  it  forms  a  transverse  bar.  The  ears 
are  openings,  generally  accompanied  with  a  cartilage  which  defends 
and  covers  them,  called  the  external  ear.  In  aquatic  animals  the 
latter  are  wanting,  sound  being  transmitted  merely  through  orifices 
in  the  head,  which  have  the  name  of  auditory  holes.  The  most  de- 
fenceless animals  are  extremely  delicate  in  the  sense  of  hearing,  as 
are  also  most  beasts  of  prey.  Most  of  the  mammiferous  animals  walk 
on  their  toes,  which  at  the  extremities  are  usually  divided  into  five 
digits.  In  some,  however,  the  feet  end  in  a  single  corneous  substance, 
called  a  hoof.  The  toes  of  a  few  of  the  mammalia  end  in  broad  flat 
nails,  and  of  most  others  in  pointed  claws.  Those  that  are  destined 
to  pass  a  considerable  portion  of  their  lives  in  water  have  the  toes 
connected  by  a  membrane.  Others  again,  as  in  the  bat, 
have  the  digitations  of  the  anterior  feet  greatly  elongated,  the 
intervening  space  being  filled  by  a  membrane,  which  extends  round 
the  hinder  legs  and  tail,  by  means  of  which  they  are  enabled  to 
rise  into  the  air.  In  man,  the  hand  comprises  fingers  separate 
free  and  flexible  ;  but  apes  and  some  other  kinds  of  animals,  have 
fingers  both  to  the  hands  and  feet.  These,  therefore,  are  the  only 
animals  that  can  hold  moveable  objects  in  a  single  hand.  Others, 
such  as  rats  and  squirrels,  have  the  fingers  sufficiently  small  and  flexible 
to  enable  them  to  pick  up  objects,  but  they  are  compelled  to  hold 
them  in  both  hands.  Others,  again,  have  the  toes  shorter,  and  must 
rest  on  the  hind-feet,  as  is  the  case  with  dogs  and  cats  when  they  want 
to  hold  a  substance  firmly  on  the  ground  with  their  paws.  There 
are  still  others  that  have  their  toes  united  and  drawn  under  the  skin 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  QUADRUPEDS       417 

or  enveloped  in  corneous  hoofs,  and  thereby  cannot  exercise  any  pre- 

A-cr. 

According  to  the  Design  and  End  of  Nature,  muinmiferous  animals  are 

'.en  arrivt-d  at  maturity,  to  subsist  on  various  kinds  oi  food — 

some   to  live  wholly  upon  flesh,  others  upon  grain,  herbs  or  fruits; 

but  in  tlu-ir  infant  state,  milk  constitutes  the  natural  food  of  the  whole. 

That  this  food  may  never  fail  them,  it  is    ordained   that   the    young 

should    no  sooner  come  into    the    world    than    the    milk  should  flow 

mlancc  into  the  organs  with  which  the  mother  is  supplied  for  the 

on  of  th.it  nutritious  fluid.     By  a  wonderful  instinct  of  Nature, 

mimal,  almost  as  soon  as  it  has  come  into  life,  se 

>w,  by  the  process  of  suet  ion, 
try  to  its    existence.     To    man 

1    him 

of  them  unite 
with    him    in    sharing    the  d  t    with    an    enemy,    and 

:rom  the  ham;  o  injurious 

to  him  ;  but  the  greater  number,  in  son  or  other,  he   turns 

none  more  subservient  to  his  purposes 
ommon  ox,  for  there  is  scarcely  a  part  of  th: 

to  convert  to  some  useful  purpose.     < 
inking   \ 

them 

i  of  the  i 
of  hid  The  th. 

are    manufactured    into    vellum.        Their    blood    is    made 

sort  of  thread  j)ie- 

Their  hair  is    valuabl  "us  manu- 

,  fat  and  tallow  arc  moulded  into  candles  ;    while 

l.ir  tissues  of  the  carcass  constitute  beef,  and  the  milk  and 

of  the  cow  yield  butter  and  cheese.     Thus  ry    part   of 

'.  valuable  to  man,  who  ha-  it    to 

>t  state  of  pet 

GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  CATTLE. 

lc,  hk<    sh<  ep,  belong    to  1  -\   and    t< 

n tire  order  is  classed 
•'ic  horn.  ides  horn 

I  by  himself.  ! 

. 

mong  the  BOVIDAE  or  oxen. 
: —  •  p 


4i8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1.  The  Bisons.  5.  The  Gour  (Indian  bison). 

2.  The  Yaks.  6.  The  Gayal  (Indian  cow). 

3.  The  Buffaloes.  7    The  Zebus  (humped  cattle  of  India). 

4.  Musk  oxen.  8.  The  European  races  of  cattle. 

There  are  some  other  oxen,  but  the  eight  species  above  named 
show  the  relative  position  of  cattle  in  the  Animal  Kingdom  and  to- 
wards other  species. 

There  are  19  distinct  breeds  or  races  of  cattle  in  the  British  Isles, 
and  Moll  and  Gayot  have  figured  no  fewer  than  55  races  of  European 
cattle  in  their  admirable  work,  La  Connaissance  General  du  Bceuf. 

Britain  has  been  famous  for  cattle  from  remote  times  (Bede's 
Ecclesiastical  History),  and  not  only  so,  but  the  soil  and  climate 
have  proved  exceptionally  favourable  for  their  proper  development. 
British  cattle  stand  pre-eminent  in  the  world  at  the  present  time 
for  beauty  of  form,  aptitude  to  fatten,  earliness  of  maturity,  and  milk- 
ing properties.  All  our  races  do  not  possess  these  aptitudes  in  the 
same  degree,  but  they  are  represented  in  all.  Our  cattle  are  usually 
classified  as  milking  and  dairy  breeds,  and  beef  producers,  although  both 
classes  yield  milk  and  beef.  In  Europe  a  third  class  is  usually  recog- 
nized, distinguished  as  draught  cattle,  but  horses  have  almost  entirely 
superseded  working  oxen  in  Great  Britain. 

The  beef  producing  races  of  cattle  include  Shorthorns,  Herefords, 
Devons,  Sussex,  Galloways,  Aberdeen-Angus,  West  Highlanders  and 
Pembrokes. 

The  principal  dairy  breeds  are  Jerseys,  Guernseys,  Shorthorns,  Ayr- 
shires,  Norfolk  Polls,  Kerrys  and  Dexters.  Shorthorns  may  be 
included  in  both  sections,  and  in  some  other  races  the  distinction 
must  be  regarded  as  rather  arbitrary. 

Shorthorn  Cattle  deserve  special  notice,  as  combining  both  milking 
and  feeding  properties  in  a  special  degree.  It  is  true  that  many  of 
the  highest  bred  Shorthorns  are  poor  milkers,  but  the  Lincoln  Red 
strain  is  celebrated  for  milk,  and  some  herds  have  been  bred  for  milk, 
and  yet  retain  their  fattening  properties.  What  are  known  as  un- 
pedigreed  Shorthorns  are  perhaps  the  most  generally  distributed 
class  of  cattle  in  most  dairy  districts.  The  Shorthorn  is  probably 
of  Dutch  origin,  but  far  back  in  the  eighteenth  century  pure-bred 
herds  with  recorded  pedigrees  were  carefully  cherished  in  Northum- 
berland, Durham  and  Yorkshire.  The  Dukes  of  Northumberland, 
the  Blacketts  of  Matfen,  the  Milbanks,  St.  Quintins  and  Pennymans 
of  Durham,  and  the  Aislabie's  of  Studley  Royal,  a  very  ancient  family, 
all  possessed  pure-bred  Shorthorns  before  the  days  of  Robert  and 
Charles  Colling,  the  Booths,  T.  Bates  and  other  accredited  promoters 
of  the  breed.  The  enthusiasm  of  the  earlier  breeders  knew  no  bounds, 
and  they  have  been  succeeded  by  a  host  of  great  breeders  in  all  parts 
of  the  kingdom.  There  have  been  many  voluminous  histories  written 
of  Shorthorns,  but  it  is  impossible  to  enter  upon  particulars  here. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON    QUADRUPEDS      419 

The  Shorthorn  is  of  large  size  and  beautifully  proportioned.  The 
colour  may  be  all  white,  all  red,  red  and  white,  or  roan,  and  the  hair 
is  abundant,  mossy  and  licked  in  various  directions.  Hair  or  coat 
is  an  important  feature.  The  horns  are  of  wax-like  tint,  and  the 
nose  is  cream-coloured  and  free  from  black.  The  bulls  are  distin- 
guished by  "  grandeur  "  in  carriage  and  crest,  and  the  cows  are  docile 
1  sweet-looking.  The  beef  is  red  and  juicy,  but  the  carcass  is  liable 
to  be  overloaded  with  fat,  and  for  this  reason  Shorthorn  beef  is  some- 

-  considered  inferior  to  that  of  other  breeds. 

Hereford  Cattle  are  easily  known  by  their  red  colour  relieved  by  white 
on  the  face,  feet,  breast,  withers  and  tail.     They  are  poor  milkers  but 
quick  fattciu  is.  and  the  beef  is  of  marbled  character  and  of  the  t 
quality.     They  originated  in  Herefordshire  and  Herts,  but  are  wuK  Iv 

and  are  in  high  estimation  among  the 
graziers  of  East  Anglia.     A  cross  of  Hereford  and  Shorthorn  prodt 

milkers. 

Devon  Cattle  are  found  in  greatest  perfection  in  North  Devon  on  the 

red  land.     They  are  of  smaller  size  than  either  of  the  last  described 

and  are  of  blood-red  colour  :    are  poor  milkers,  but  good  for 

(1  the  oxen  are  first-rate  for  draught  purposes. 
Sussex  Cattle  resemble  Dcvons,  t>  i^er  in  frame,  of  a  swai 

iturcs.     They  lack  the  bright  orange  tint  seen 

around  the  eyes,  inside  the  ears,  and  around  the  muzzles  of  Devon 
•reed  is  one  of  our  best  beef  producers,  and  is 
i  its  own  con 

Galloway  Cattle.  These  inhabit  the  south-western  peninsula  of 
Scotland  which  includes  the  counties  of  Dumfries,  Wigton  and  Kirk- 
cubright,  and  stretches  far  south  of  t!  h  border.  They  ! 

out  of  doors  winter  and  summer,  and  the  cows  bring  forth  their  calves 
lie  open  and  suckle  them  on  the  hills.     They  are  black  in  colour, 
>ugh  occasionally  red  or  brown,  and  are  long  and  c  'in 

ad  stand  on  short  legs.     They  are  of  medium  size,  are  polled  or 
;x>sed  of  to  gl  hem  on  the 

la  of  England.     Their  glossy  black  colour,  deep  i 
case  :ters  and  polled  character  are  amply  distinct 

of  the  b;  s  of  superior  quali 

Aberdeen  Angus  Cattle  occur  principally  in   the   peninsula  which  juts 

main  trend  of  the  coastline  to  the  north-east,  forming 

rness  and  Angus.     The  breed  in  many 

ays,   as  it  is  black  and   polled,      i 

ther  looser  build,  and  thinner  hide 

!  v  a  beef  producing  breed, 

I  for  mil  vs  a  feature  in  the  Smith- 

ton. 
The   West- Highland   Cattle  harmoni/e   with   tl 

.s  do  the  r.-d  drcr  an.J  the  nati\. 


420  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

These  denizens  of  the  mountains  might  well  seem  to  be  a  natural  pro- 
duct of  the  land  of  mist  and  flood.  Their  gleaming  horns,  shaggy 
coats,  stalwart  frames  and  sombre  hues  seem  like  an  embodiment  of 
the  "  Spirit  of  the  Highlands."  They  found  an  early  improver  in 
Mr.  McNeil,  a  proprietor  in  the  Hebrides,  and  from  thence  they  spread 
over  the  Western  and  Central  Highlands.  Their  symmetry  is  per- 
fect and  their  size  moderate.  Their  horns  are  upright  or  spreading, 
and  their  coats  are  long  and  capable  of  resisting  any  amount  of  rain, 
snow  or  sleet.  Their  colours  are  black,  brown,  silvery  grey,  fawn  or 
brindled.  For  scenic  effect  they  are  unsurpassed,  and  when  deported 
from  their  native  homes  they  are  as  decorative  as  deer,  in  Windsor 
Great  Park  and  other  demesnes.  The  West-Highlanders  are  quick 
fatteners,  and  yield  beef  of  first-rate  quality.  At  cattle  shows,  they 
always  attract  an  admiring  crowd,  who  gaze  upon  them  at  a  respect- 
ful distance.  The  free  life  of  West-Highland  cattle  favours  the  natural 
suckling  of  the  calves,  and  they  are  never  enumerated  among  the 
dairy  breeds. 

The  Pembroke  Cattle  of  Wales  are  black,  with  black  tipped  white  horns. 
They  are  considered  to  be  closely  related  to  the  Park  Cattle  of  Chil- 
lingham  and  the  native  red  cattle  of  Devon.  They  are  an  indigenous 
breed,  and  probably  are  descended  from  the  ancient  British  cattle. 
They  are  therefore  looked  upon  as  the  descendants  of  Bos  Primigenius 
in  contradistinction  to  Bos  longifrous,  the  extinct  wild  prototype  of 
Highland  cattle.  The  best  type  of  Pembroke  Cattle  are  called  Castle- 
Martins. 

DAIRY  BREEDS. 

Jersey  Cattle  properly  head  the  list  of  dairy  cattle.  They  occur  as 
the  native  breed  of  Jersey,  and  no  bull  is  allowed  to  land  upon  the 
island  that  is  not  of  pure  blood.  These  cattle  are  of  fawn  or  smoke 
colour,  beautifully  shaded  on  the  ribs  and  haunches.  The  horns  are 
short  and  curved  towards  each  other,  and  are  black  in  colour.  The 
face  is  deer-like  and  free  from  flesh,  and  the  carcass  is  light  in  front 
and  heavy  behind.  They  are  free  milkers,  and  the  milk  is  of  rich 
colour  and  extremely  rich  in  cream.  It  is  the  butter-making  breed 
par  excellence,  and  the  beautiful  rich  yellow  colour  of  the  butter 
confers  upon  it  a  special  value.  A  Jersey  cow  converts  her  food  into 
rich  milk  and  is  a  slow  fattener.  This  is  a  drawback  to  the  male 
portions  of  the  herd,  which  are  slow  to  fatten,  and  not  very  saleable 
except  in  the  case  of  the  best  bulls.  The  deer-like  beauty,  small  size 
and  docility  of  the  cows  render  them  general  favourites,  and  they 
are  largely  kept  in  suburban  districts  by  villa  residents.  As  ordinary 
farming  stock  they  are  not  general,  as  the  yield  of  milk  and  butter 
is  not  so  great  as  in  some  other  breeds,  and  does  not  always  command 
a  price  commensurate  with  its  quality. 

Guernsey  Cattle  possess  similar  properties  to  the  Jerseys,  but  may 


XKRAI.  OBSERVATIONS  ON  QUADRUPEDS       421 

'lily  distinguished  by  their  yellow  and  white  markings  and  some- 
ampler  proportions. 

Ayrshire  Cattle  appear  to  be  the  result  of  Shorthorn  crosses  upon  the 

races  which  were  formerly  called  Dunlop  Ca  :<!<•.     They  are  of 

is  colouring,  some  being  almost  black,  others  of  Channel  Island 

while  some  are  brown  and  white,  or  yellow  and  white.     Tho 

horns  are  upright  and  fairly  long.     The  form  is  described  as  "  v. 

hich  is  meant  that  from  every  point  of  view  they  are 
.   in  front  and  wide  behind.     Thus  the  nan 
into  v.  !e  loins  contract  into  narrou  Tin 

v    from    withers  t 
•i  at  the  flanks  ai 

.us  in  tin-  Si  null  (  h.-.Mai 

The  Norfolk  Follies 

purposes,  and  arc  alao  good 
descended  \\  in  Galloway  cows  imj 

Suffolk  Dun.  which  had  a  similar 

Kerries  and  Dexters  may  be  taken  as  both  arc  improved  varie- 

ties ot 

ire  small  in  size,  and  are  :  s  with  those  who  keep  tuo 

or  three  pet  cows  for  domestic  uses.     The  Dexter  wa  cd  by 

•s^-il    K  •  >nh<irn   bull 

'•reed  be* 
.  more  easily  than 


QUALITY  OF  BEEF. 

ity  of  beef  depends  partly  upon  race,  but  also  upon 
,-.     The  best  beef  is  that  of  steers  or  ties  of 

:  beef  is  probably  equally  good,  but  cow  beef 
r,  as  is  also  t  Grass  fed  beef  is 

i»r  to  that  (  : 

best  bet- 1 
>d.  uith  1  with  the 

•i)  the  fore-qu 

and  "  crops  "  of  bt  n  the  best 

sold  by  contract  to  si.  i 

mj>s.  the  buttocks 

kl  rolled  and  used  for  "  corned  beef." 
.lar  with   r.n^h^hincn.  and 

i     horsc<  radish    as  i  •  mdinf  i»N.   \\}\\-  :    \\ith 

mm 


422  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  VEAL 

As  the  calf,  at  least  as  far  as  it  is  identified  with  veal,  is  destined 
to  die  young — to  be  killed  in  comparative  infancy — it  may,  at  first 
sight,  appear  of  little  or  no  consequence  to  inquire  to  what  particular 
variety  or  breed  of  the  general  stock  his  sire  or  dam  may  belong. 
The  great  art,  however,  in  the  modern  science  of  stock-breeding  has 
been  to  obtain  an  animal  that  shall  not  only  have  the  utmost  beauty 
of  form  of  which  the  species  is  capable,  but,  at  the  same  time,  possess 
a  constitution  free  from  all  taint,  a  frame  that  shall  rapidly  attain  bulk 
and  stature,  and  a  disposition  so  kindly  that  every  quantum  of  food 
it  takes  shall  speedily,  and  to  the  fullest  degree,  be  assimilated  and  con- 
verted into  flesh.  The  breed,  then,  is  of  considerable  consequence 
in  determining,  not  only  the  quality  of  the  meat  to  the  consumer,  but 
its  commercial  value  to  the  breeder  and  butcher. 

Under  the  System  now  adopted  in  the  rearing  of  domestic  cattle  and 
stock  in  general,  to  gratify  the  arbitrary  demands  of  luxury  and  fashion, 
we  can  have  veal,  like  lamb,  in  the  market  at  all  seasons,  but  English 
veal  is  considered  to  be  in  season  from  February  to  September. 

The  Cow  goes  with  Young  for  Nine  Months,  and  the  affection  and  solici- 
tude she  evinces  for  her  offspring  is  more  human  in  its  tenderness  and 
intensity  than  is  displayed  by  any  other  animal  ;  and  her  distress  when 
she  hears  it  lowing,  and  is  not  allowed  to  reach  it  with  her  distended 
udders,  is  often  painful  to  witness  ;  and  when  the  calf  has  died,  or  been 
accidentally  killed,  her  grief  frequently  makes  her  refuse  to  give  down 
her  milk.  In  a  state  of  nature  the  cow,  like  the  deer,  hides  her  young 
in  the  tall  ferns  and  brakes,  and  the  most  secret  places  ;  and  only  at 
stated  times,  twice  or  thrice  a  day,  quits  the  herd,  and,  hastening  to 
the  secret  cover,  gives  suck  to  her  calf,  and  with  the  same  circumspec- 
tion returns  to  the  community. 

The  Weaning  of  Calves  is  a  process  that  requires  a  great  amount  of  care 
and  judgment,  for  though  calves  are  in  reality  not  weaned  till  between 
the  eighth  and  the  twelfth  week,  the  process  of  rearing  them  by  hand 
commences  in  fact  from  the  birth,  the  calf  never  being  allowed  to  suck 
its  dam.  As  the  rearing  of  calves  for  the  market  is  a  very  important 
and  lucrative  business,  the  breeder  generally  arranges  his  stock  so  that 
ten  or  a  dozen  of  his  cows  shall  calve  about  the  same  time  ;  and  then, 
by  setting  aside  a  few,  to  find  food  for  the  entire  family,  gets  the 
remainder  of  the  herd  with  their  full  fountains  of  milk  to  carry  on  the 
operations  of  his  dairy.  Some  people  have  an  idea  that  skimmed 
milk,  if  given  in  sufficient  quantity,  is  good  enough  for  the  weaning 
period  of  calf-feeding  ;  but  this  is  a  very  serious  mistake,  for  the  cream, 
of  which  it  has  been  deprived,  contains  nearly  all  the  oleaginous 
principles,  and  it  is  found  that  a  calf  reared  on  one  part  of  new  milk 
mixed  with  five  of  water,  will  thrive  and  look  well,  while  another 
treated  with  unlimited  skim  milk,  will  be  poor,  thin,  and  miserable. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  QUADRUPEDS 

It  is  sometimes  a  matter  of  considerable  trouble  to  induce  the  calf — 

instinct  only  teaches  him  to  suck,  which  he  will  do  at  anything 
and  with  anything — to  acquire  the  knowledge  of  imbibition,  and  for 
the  first  few  days  it  is  often  necessary  to  fill  a  bottle  with  milk,  and, 
opening  his  mouth,  pour  the  contents  down  his  throat.  The  manner, 

<  r,  by  which  he  is  finally  educated  into  the  mystery  of  suction, 
is  by  putting  his  allowance  of  milk  into  a  large  wooden  bowl  ;  the  nurse 
then  puts  her  hand  into  the  milk,  and,  by  bending  her  fingers  upwards, 
makes  a  teat  for  the  calf  to  grasp  in  his  lips,  when  the  vacuum 
created  by  the  suction  of  the  fingers  causes  the  milk  to  rise  along  them 
into  his  mouth.  In  this  manner,  one  by  one,  the  whole  family  are 
fed  three  times  a  day,  care  being  taken  that  new-born  calves  are  not 

st  fed  on  milk  from  a  cow  who  has  calved  some  days. 
As  the  Calf  Progresses  towards  his  Tenth  Week,  his  diet  requires  to  be 
increased  in  quantity  and  quality  ;  for  these  objects  his  milk  can  K> 

ned  with  flour  or  meal,  and  small  pieces  of  softened  oil-cake  are 

I  into  his  mouth  after  sucking,  in  order  that  he  may  grow  fa 
with  its  taste,  when  it  may  be  softened  and  scraped  down  into  his 
milk-and-water.     After  a  time,  sliced    turnips  softened   by  stca; 
given  to  him  in  tolerable  quantities  ;  then  succulent  grasses,  and  finally, 
hay  may  be  added  to  the  other  food.     Some  farmers,  desirous  of  r< 
ing  their  calves  fat  for  the  butcher  in  as  short  a  time  as  possible,  forget 
both  the  natural  weakness  of  the  digestive  organs  and  the  li: 
capacity  of  the  stomach,  and  allow  the  animals  either  to  suck  ad 
•  >:,  or  give  them,  if  brought  up  by  the  pail  or  by  hand,  a  larger 
quantity  of  milk  than  they  can  digest.     The  idea  of  overloadng 
stomach  never  suggests  itself  to  their  minds.     They  suppose  that  the 
more  food  the  young  creature  consumes,  the  sooner  it  will  be  fat,  and 
they  allow  it  no  exercise  whatever,  for  fear  it  should  denude  it 
bones  of  their  flesh.     Under  such  circumstances  the  stomach  frequently 
becomes    deranged  ;     its  functions   are  no    longer   performed  ;     the 
milk,  subjected  to  the  acid   of  the  stomach,  coagulates,  and  forms  a 

icd  mass  of  curd,  when  the  muscles  become  affected  with  spasms, 
and  death  frequently  ensues. 

Veal. — Veal   is,   by  many,   considered  both   unwholesome  and   in- 

ible.  The  practice,  now  illegal,  of  bleeding  calves  before 
killing  them,  until  they  were  actually  in  a  state  of  disease,  had  pro- 
bably some  effect  in  producing  a  general  belief  in  the  unwholcson 

of  the  immature  animal  is  less  easily  digested 

res   offer   greater   resistance    to    the   digestive   agents. 

When   its   fibr  -luccd  to  a  fine  state  of  division  by  the  various 

scs  of  mastication,  mincing,  pounding  and  sieving,  veal  is  easily 
t,  it  contains  less  nourishment  than  beef, 

in  consequence  of  having  in  its  composition  a  higher  percentage  of  water, 
(78  in  100  parts  as  compared  with  72  per  cent,  in  beef),  and  a  corres- 
ponding decrease  in  the  proportion  of  proteids  and  fats, 


424  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

To  Choose  Veal. — The  whiteness  oi  veal  is  considered  a  sign  of  good 
quality,  and  animals  were  bled  to  make  their  flesh  white.  On  the 
Continent  calves  are  killed  much  younger  than  is  customary  in  this 
country,  and  they  are  fed  on  milk  and  white  food,  but  no  feeding  will 
make  every  calf  equally  white  fleshed.  As  immature  meat  keeps  badly 
at  all  times,  it  is  of  importance  that  the  calf  should  not  be  bruised  in 
bringing  it  to  market.  The  fat  should  be  plentiful  and  very  white, 
especially  that  surrounding  the  kidney,  which  in  all  animals  affords 
a  good  indication  of  quality. 

Very  young  veal  is  constantly  brought  to  table  on  the  Continent, 
but  no  calf  may  be  killed  for  food  less  than  14  days  old,  whereas  in 
England  they  may  be  sold  when  3  days  old.  The  flesh  is  in  the  higher 
state  of  perfection  when  the  calf  is  8  or  9  weeks  old  ;  after  12  weeks 
it  becomes  coarse  in  texture. 

Veal  is  most  plentiful  from  February  to  the  end  of  July. 

The  Several  Parts  of  a  Moderate-sized,  Well-fed  Calf,  about  8  weeks  old 
are  approximately  of  the  following  weights  :  Loin  and  chump,  18  Ib.  ; 
fillet,  12^  Ib.  ;  hind  knuckle,  5^  Ib.  ;  shoulder,  n  Ib.  ;  neck,  n  Ib.  ; 
breast,  9  Ib.  ;  and  fore-knuckle,  5  Ib.,  making  a  total  of  144  Ib.  weight. 
The  London  mode  of  cutting  the  carcass  is  considered  to  be  the  stan- 
dard. It  gives  three  roasting  joints  and  one  boiling  joint  in  each 
quarter  ;  the  pieces  are  also  more  equally  divided,  as  regards  flesh, 
and  have  a  better  appearance. 

The  Manner  of  Cutting  up  Veal  for  the  English  market  is  to  divide 
the  carcass  into  four  quarters,  with  eleven  ribs  to  each  fore-quarter ; 
these  are  again  sub-divided  into  joints,  as  exemplified  in  the 
accompanying  illustration. 

They  are  used  in  the  following  way  : 

HlND-QUARTER. 

(1)  Loin. — Prime  roasting  joint,  also  for  chops. 

(2)  Chump  end  of  Loin. — Roasted. 

(3)  Fillet. — The  choicest  and  least  bony  roasting  joint,  also  suitable 
for  braising  for  a  small  party.      Cutlets  are  sometimes  taken  from 
this  part. 

(4)  Hind  Knuckle. — Low-priced.     Fit  for  boiling  or  stewing,  or  for 
stock. 

FORE-QUARTER. 

(5)  Fore  Knuckle. — Best  stewed  or  boiled.     In  the  young  animal  all 
joints  are  tender,  and  can  be  roasted.     When  the  sinews  and  tendons 
have  become  stiff  and  hard  with  age,  certain  joints  are  nearly  uneat- 
able, except  when  cooked  at  a  low  temperature  with  moisture. 

(6)  Best  end  of  the  Neck. — For  small  roasting  joint  or  for  chops.     Too 
large  a  proportion  of  bone  to  be  economical.     The  other  end  of  the 
neck  is  more  suitable  for  stewing. 

(7  and  8)  Oyster  or  Bladebone. — Often  sold  in  halves  for  roasting. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  QUADRUPEDS       425 

(9)  Breast. — Low  in  price.     Sometimes  roasted  ;  better  braised  or 

\\\i\  tendons,  served  as  an  entree,  are  cut  from  this  joint. 

(10)  Head. — Eaten  hot  or  cold  in  a  variety  of  ways.     C. lives'  brains 

•d  as  an  cnu 
Besides  these  joints,  the  following  parts  of  the  Calf  are  sold  for  food  : — 

(12)  Sweetbread. — A  delicacy,   sold   at    fancy   prices.     Cooked   in   a 
v  of  ways,  generally  served  as  an  entree.     It  is  described  as  heart 
:>read  and  throat   sweetbread,  the  latter  being  the  thymus  L 
(J3)  Liver. — Often  used  for  frying.     As  it  is  very  lean,  it  is  usually 
cooked  with  some  of  the  inside  fat  or  crow,  or  with  bacon. 

(14)  Feet. — These   are   sold   by   tripe-dressers    and   butchers,    and 
for  jelly-making,  in  the  place  of  prepared  gelatine.     Thc\ 

also  be  stewed  and  fried.     "  Ncats'  foot  "  is  a  common  article  of  food 
with  the  poor. 

(15)  Heart. — Can  be  bought  separately,  or  with  the  pluck  or  fry. 
by   many  persons  ;    makes  an   economical  dish  .  ist  or 

.md   is    !  -'.j.in    bullock's   he-art. 

(16)  Suet — V-  1   with   the  loin,  is  more  delicate  for  all 
<>s  than  IxH-f,  and  may  with  advantage  be  substituted  for  it  in 

puddings,  forcemeat,  etc, 

(17)  Kidney. — This  is  much  more  delicate  than,  and  is  pr< 
beef  kidney.     It  is  sold  with  the  loin  ;  if  sold  separately  an  c 

According  to  the  calculation  in  the  following  table  we  find  that  is.  will 
buy  i  Ib.  and  6  oz.  of  breast  <  .,  or  13025.  of  veal  cutlet 

at   is.  2i\.     In  the  cheaper  joint  then  ctcd  an  average  oi 

6  ozs.  of  bone  tly   i   Ib.  of  solid  meat.     In  the  cutlets 

be  no  bone,  but  there  will  probably  l>e  2  <  10  ozs, 

The  juice  of  the  cut  let  is  not  unusual,  though 
Mseeth.r  :  ice  \ve  have  «juoted ,  th  more 

M  certainly  not  be  so  were  the 
of  both  joints  the  sa: 


426 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


TABLE  OF  THE  RELATIVE  VALUE  OF  VARIOUS  PARTS  OF 

VEAL. 

GIVING  THE  ACTUAL  COST  OF  THE  EATABLE  PORTION  OF  THE  VARIOUS 
JOINTS,  AFTER  DEDUCTING  LOSS  IN  WEIGHT  FROM  WASTE,  BONE, 
AND  DIFFERENT  MODES  OF  COOKING. 

Great  care  has  been  taken  in  the  preparation  of  these  tables,  all  the 
joints  having  been  carefully  tested.  The  result  shows  that  no  joint 
can  be  reckoned  to  cost  less  than  is.  per  Ib.  Veal  is  not,  however, 
such  an  extravagant  meat  as  it  is  generally  considered  to  be,  the  waste 
in  cooking,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  second  table,  not  being  excessive. 


Name  of  Joint. 

How  usually 
cooked. 

Weight 
before 
cooking. 

Weight 
when 
cooked, 
bone  and 
waste 

Total 
loss 
per  Ib. 

Average 
cost 
per  Ib. 

Cost  per  Ib. 
after  cook- 
ing, bone 
and  waste 

deducted. 

deducted. 

Ib.    oz. 

Ib.    oz. 

oz 

s.     d. 

s.     d. 

Breast        .      . 

Roasted     . 

5     o 

3     6 

5} 

0      7 

0       10 

Fillet     -   .  -  .      .      . 

Roasted     . 

9   12 

7     o 

4l 

I      2 

i     42 

Head         

Boiled 

12      4 

7     8 

6 

0      6 

0       f)\ 

Heart        .... 

Baked 

I       O 

I     5 

I 

o     8 

o     8i 

Knuckle  (of  shoulder 

or  leg)    .     . 

Boiled 

5  15 

2    12  i 

t* 

o     6 

i 

Leg  (in  cutlets)  .      . 

Fried 

I    12 

I      6J 

2j 

I       2 

5 

Liver      ,-•,.- 

Fried 

I       0 

o  15  J 

I 

0    10 

io* 

Loin     •      «•'.    •  •  i  * 

Roasted     . 

7     o 

3  13 

7} 

o     9 

4 

Neck  Best  end     . 

Roasted     . 

3     3 

2       6} 

5 

o     9 

i 

Shoulder  (part) 

Stewed      . 

9     o 

6     3 

5 

o     9 

i 

Sweetbread 

Fried 

I     4 

I       2* 

i 

i     6 

7 

Tongue            .      •  „;'..., 

Boiled 

2     4 

I     6-J 

6 

o     8 

0    II 

TABLE   GIVING  WEIGHT   OF  BONE,   SKIN  AND   WASTE   IN 
JOINTS  OF  VEAL. 


Name  of  J  oint. 

'  Weight  of 
joint  when 
bought. 

Weight  of 
bone,  skin 
and  waste. 

Loss  of 
weight  by 
cooking. 

Total 
weight  of 
waste. 

Weight  of 
eatable 
matter. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Breast          .      .      . 

5     0 

o     4 

I      6 

I     10 

3     6 

Fillet      ... 

9   12 

o     8 

2     4 

2   12 

7     o 

Head      

12     4 

3     ^ 

I    12 

4    12 

7     8 

Knuckle 

5   15 

2      7 

0    11$ 

3     2$ 

2    12$ 

Leg  (in  cutlets) 

I    12 

o     3l 

0       2 

o     5$ 

I     61 

Loin       .     ,     ,     . 

7     o 

i   ii 

i     8 

3     3 

3   13 

Shoulder 

o     o 

2       I 

0    12 

2   13 

6     3 

GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON   QUADRUPEDS 
GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS   ON   THE   CHOICE    OF    MEAT 

Choosing  Meat. — Every  housekeeper  ought  to  know  how  to  choose 
a  good  piece  of  meat  in  the  butcher's  shop,  and  how  to  detect  a  bad 
piece  sent  to  her  kitchen.  It  is  almost  needless  to  say  that  the  first 
necessity  is  that  the  meat  should  be  wholesome,  It  may  be  unwhole- 
some from  a  variety  of  causes. 

Parasites. — It  may  be  infested  with  parasites,  and  this  condition 
is  known  to  be  without  doubt  most  injurious  to  the  consumer.  We 
shall  have  to  speak  again  of  "  measly  pork  "  in  another  chapter,  and 
of  the  parasite  known  as  "  TRICHINA  SPIRALIS,"  that  also  frequently 
infests  the  pig.  The  chief,  indeed,  the  only  safeguard  against  this 
danger  lies  in  the  thorough  cooking  of  the  meat,  every  part  of  which 
should  be  raised  to  the  temperature  of  boiling  water,  2 1 2  Fahr.  This 
applies  particularly  to  all  the  visceral  organs,  where  these  are  eaten,  for 
in  these  parts  of  the  animal  that  parasites  are  most  often  found. 

Putrefaction. — Even  if  the  animal  be  killed  in  a  healthy  condition, 
the  meat  may  become  unwholesome  by  putrefaction.  Habit  has  much 
to  do  in  accommodating  mankind  to  various  kinds  of  foods.  Some 
American  Indians  prefer  putrid  meat,  and  they  bury  salmon  for  some 
months  in  order  to  bring  it  to  what  they  consider  a  state  of  perfection. 
Until  recently  Englishmen  preferred  game  in  a  half-putrid  condition, 
but  now  the  taste  for  it  is  rapidly  disappearing. 

To  Choose  Good  Meat  it  is  necessary  to  see  that  it  possesses  the  following 
qualifications  : — 

1 i )  It  should  have  a  marbled  appearance,  from  the  ramifications  of  lit  tic 
veins  of  fat  among  the  muscles  ;   this  is  specially  characteristic  of 
beef. 

t  may  be  wholesome,  yet  not  fat,  as  we  shall  explain  later,  but 
kly  animal  never  fatt< 

(2)  It  should  be  firm  and  elastic  to  the  touch,  and  should  scarcely 
n  the  fingers,  bad  meat  bcin^;  wet,  sodden  and  flabby,  with  the 

fat  looking  like  wet  jelly  or  parchment. 

(3)  It  should  be  neither  of  a  pale  pink  colour  nor  a  deep  purple  tint; 
the  former  is  a  sign  of  disease,  the  latter  indicates  that  the  animal  has 
not  been  slaughtered,  but  has  died  with  the  blood  in  it,  or  has  suffered 
from  acute  fever.     In  this  case  the  inside  fat  surrounding  the  kidneys 
and   the  liver  is  often   suffused  with  blood,  showing  plainly  that  there 
has  been  inflammation  of  those  organs. 

(4)  It  should  have  little  or  no  odour,  and  the  odour  should  not  be 
veable,  for  diseased  meat  has  a  sickly,  cadaverous  smell,  and 

sometimes  a  smell  of  physic.     This  is  easily  discovered  when  the  meat 
is  cut  up  finely  and  put  into  warm  water. 

(5)  It  should  not  shrink  or  waste  much  in  cooking,  though  this  de- 
partly   on  the  mode  of    cooking,    as,    for   instance,   roast  meat 

.in  baked,  and  some  joints  more  than  others.     Badly 


428      HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

fed  meat,  such  as  pork  fed  on  nuts  and  offal  instead  of  meal,  wastes 
much  in  cooking, 

(6)  It  should  not  run  to  water  or  become  very  wet  on  standing  for 
a  day  or  two  but  should  on  the  contrary  be  dry  upon  the  surface. 
Meat  however  that  has  been  frozen  is  always  damp  on  the  surface, 
although  the  quality  may  be  excellent. 

Inferior  Meat. — Meat  may  be  quite  wholesome  and  yet  may  be  of 
inferior  quality.  Ordinary  purchasers  do  not  understand  this  in  theory, 
though  they  are  accustomed  to  it  in  practice.  An  ox  that  had  worked 
at  the  plough  would  be  hard  and  somewhat  strong-flavoured  ;  but 
suitably  cooked  it  would  be  unobjectionable  from  a  hygienic  point  of 
view.  Cow-beef  is  habitually  sold  in  the  markets  and  the  poor  gladly 
buy  it  at  a  low  price.  Even  in  the  best  quarters  of  the  town,  superior 
meat  hangs  side  by  side  with  the  second  quality.  Not  enough  comes 
to  town  of  the  best  short-horned  beef,  or  of  Southdown  mutton,  to 
supply  one-tenth  of  the  customers,  and  in  all  market-lists  the  prices 
at  per  stone  vary  according  to  the  breed  and  the  quality.  It  answers 
the  grazier's  purpose  to  take  a  lower  price  per  stone  for  an  animal  that 
arrives  quickly  at  maturity,  and  attains  to  the  greatest  weight  on  a 
given  amount  of  food.  As  a  rule,  the  larger  the  animal,  the  coarser 
the  flesh.  This  is  markedly  true  of  different  varieties  of  the  same  species. 
In  providing  for  a  large  number  of  persons,  where  quantity  and  cheap- 
ness are  of  more  importance  than  first-rate  quality,  joints  of  large, 
full-flavoured  beef  and  mutton  are  by  far  the  most  advantageous  to 
buy,  and  for  strong  soup,  stews  with  vegetables,  and  such  dishes, 
there  is  no  reason  for  choosing  the  most  delicate  meat. 

Fat  Meat. — As  regards  fat,  that  can  be  bought  more  cheaply  than 
on  a  joint  of  meat,  and  many  persons  object  to  eat  much  fat.  But 
it  is  always  risky  to  buy  any  part  of  an  unusually  lean  animal,  in  case 
its  condition  should  be  due  to  disease.  It  is  better  to  buy  a  lean  joint 
off  a  fat  beast,  or  to  cut  off  the  fat  before  cooking  the  meat,  as  it  can 
be  clarified  and  used  for  deep  frying,  plain  cakes,  pastry,  etc.  Again, 
if  economy  is  an  object,  it  is  well  to  buy  a  cheap  part  of  a  first-rate 
animal  rather  than  a  prime  joint  off  an  inferior  beast.  The  fore- 
quarter  costs  less  than  the  hind ;  and  in  a  bullock  it  is  easy  to  get  a 
solid  lump  of  meat  from  the  fore-quarter  with  little  or  no  bone  ;  of 
course,  if  a  joint  is  cheap  because  it  is  bony,  there  is  no  economy  in 
buying  it. 

A  Few  Observations  on  the  Nutritive  Value  of  Salted  Meat  may  be  properly 
introduced  in  this  place.  Every  housewife  knows  that  dry  salt  in 
contact  with  fresh  meat  gradually  becomes  fluid  brine.  The  ap- 
plication of  salt  causes  the  fibres  of  meat  to  contract,  and  the  juice  to 
flow  out  from  its  pores;  as  much  as  one-third  of  the  juice  of  the  meat 
is  often  forced  out  in  this  manner.  As  this  juice  is  pure  extract  of 
meat,  containing  albumin,  osmasome,  and  other  valuable  principles 
it  follows  that  meat,  which  has  been  preserved  by  the  action  of  salt, 
cannot  have  the  nutritive  properties  of  fresh  meat. 


M:RAL  OBSERVATIONS  ox  <  u  ADRUPEDS 

GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  BEEF 

Buying  Beef. — Beef  should  not  be  eaten  if  it  is  in  the  least  high. 
In  dry  weather  it  will  keep  some  days;  but  it  very  soon  spoils  in  damp 
i-r,  even  if  the  thermometer  is  low.  At  such  times  joints  of  meat 
may  often  be  bought  very  cheaply,  especially  in  the  large  markets  on 
Saturday  nights.  The  meat  may  be  quite  good  at  the  time  it  is  sold, 
but  it  would  not  be  in  twenty-four  or  thirty-six  hours.  And 
thrifty  housekeepers,  having  more  time  than  money  at  disposal,  in 
this  way  do  their  marketing  to  great  advantage.  It  is  not  wise  at  such 
times — perhaps  not  at  any  time  when  economy  is  studied — to  go  out 
with  a  fixed  idea  of  the  joint  that  is  to  be  bought.  A  general  idea  of  the 
relative  value  of  each  joint,  of  its  usual  price,  and  its  average  proportion 
of  bone  and  fat,  is  all  tl  nted.  The  prices  of  meat,  and  of  all 

are  only  fixed  so  long  as  the  circumstan 

•;d  v.lx  n   there  is  a  glut  in  the  market  of 

anything  that  cannot  be  held  back,  it  is  sure  to  be  sold  for  what< 
will   1 

Foreign  Beef  is  now  imported  in  large  quantities,  and  althor 
is  noi  •    !4<><»d   in   flavour  or  quality 

:  theless  <  .ind  can  be  usually  obt 

at  a  lower  price.     The  best  parts  only  used  to  be  sent  to  this  country, 
but  owin-j  to  the  great  imp;  in  the  means  of  transpoi 

methods  for  preserving  the  meat,  carcasses  frozen,  chilled  or  n  ' 

lent  condition,  and  are  cut  up  and  sold  m  th-*  same 

manner  as  Kn^lish  beef,  and  usually  at  a  lower  rate,  thus  placing  good 

within  the  reach  of  all  classes.     The  chief  supplies  arc  from  the 

ties,  Aust  f  from  t 

of  the  t>est  brands    j  \rmour  and  .Morns),  are 

not  frozen,  but  ted  or  chilled,  and  are  sold  at  a  rate  within  a 

fraction  of  our  hoi  f  is  not  cons; 

to  be  so  good  as  that  from  the  United  States,  but  is  considerably  less 
in  price,  although  it  is  not  so  cheap  as  the  beef  imported  from 

which  is  the  cheapest  of  all.     Large  quantities  of  live  cattle 
are  now  brought  over,  especially  from  Argentina,  to  England,  and  are 

the  ma: 

The  Larder  is  the  only  room  in  the  house  that  should  always  face  due 
north,  so  that  the  sun  never  comes  in,     There  should  be  thorough 
ventilation,    and    no    direct    communication    with    the    drains,   an 
unt rapped  sink  in  the  floor.    The  joint  should  be  hung  up,  not  1 
or  plate.     It  should  Iw  wiped,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  d 
vith  flour  or  flour  and  pepper.     If  placed  in  a  draught, 
will  k  i  longer  time.     The  kernel,  often   seen    in 

•  mid  or  silversidc,  and  the  marrow  from  the  backbone  should 

••fore  the  joint  itself.      M< 

•  T  Irnm  <me  that  lia-i  1>  <-n  or  bruised,  does 

not  keep  \\<  11.  r  than  young. 


430  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Tainted  Meat. — If  meat  is  clammy  or  musty  from  being  kept,  it 
should  be  washed  in  water  containing  vinegar  or  some  such  non- 
poisonous  disinfectant  as  permanganate  of  potash.  Powdered  borax 
dissolved  in  water  is  the  best  to  use.  Another  plan  is  to  powder 
the  joint  with  charcoal,  and  then  wash  it.  In  any  case  it  should 
be  roasted,  not  boiled  or  stewed,  if  the  meat  is  really  tainted 
ed  enough  to  give  it  a  flavour.  It  is  much  better  to  half-roast  or 
parboil  a  joint  a  day  or  two  before  it  is  eaten  than  to  hang  it  too 
long,  for  it  is  really  not  hurt  by  so  doing  if  it  is  put  down  to  a  very 
hot  fire. 

The  General  Mode  of  Slaughtering  Oxen  in  this  country  is  by  striking 
them  a  smart  blow  with  a  hammer  or  poleaxe  on  the  head,  a  little 
above  the  eyes.  By  this  means,  when  the  blow  is  skilfully  given,  the 
beast  is  brought  down  at  one  blow,  and,  to  prevent  recovery,  a  cane 
is  generally  inserted,  by  which  the  spinal  cord  is  perforated,  in- 
stantly depriving  the  ox  of  all  sensation  of  pain.  In  Spain,  and  some 
other  countries  on  the  Continent,  and  also  in  some  parts  of  England, 
it  is  usual  to  deprive  oxen  of  life  by  the  operation  of  pithing  or  dividing 
the  spinal  cord  in  the  neck,  close  to  the  back  part  of  the  head.  This 
is,  in  effect,  the  same  mode  as  is  practised  in  the  celebrated  Spanish 
bull-fights  by  the  matador,  and  it  is  instantaneous  in  depriving  the 
animal  of  sensation,  if  the  operator  be  skilful. 

The  Manner  in  which  a  Side  of  Beef  is  cut  up  in  London  is  shown  in  the 
accompanying  engraving.  The  custom  varies  in  different  parts  of  the 
country,  and  in  some  places  no  difference  is  made  in  price  between 
one  joint  and  another.  This,  however,  is  of  rare  occurrence.  Meat 
is  sold  wholesale  at  per  stone  of  8  Ib. 

In  the  Metropolis,  on  account  of  the  large  number  of  its  population 
possessing  the  means  to  indulge  in  the  "  best  of  everything,"  the 
demand  for  the  most  delicate  joints  of  meat  is  great  ;  the  price,  at  the 
same  time,  being  much  higher  for  these  than  for  the  other  parts.  The 
consequence  is  that  in  London  the  carcass  is  there  divided  so  as  to  ob- 
tain the  greatest  quantity  of  meat  on  the  most  esteemed  joints.  But 
in  many  places,  owing  to  a  greater  equality  in  the  social  condition  and 
habits  of  the  inhabitants,  the  demand  and  prices  for  the  different  parts 
of  the  carcase  are  more  equalized,  there  is  not  the  same  reason  for  the 
butcher  to  cut  the  best  joints  so  large. 

The  meat  on  those  parts  of  the  animal  in  which  the  muscles  are  least 
called  into  action  is  most  tender  and  succulent  ;  as,  for  instance,  along 
the  back,  from  the  rump  to  the  hinder  part  of  the  shoulder;  whilst 
the  limbs,  shoulder  and  neck  are  the  toughest,  driest,  and  least  es- 
teemed. 

Amongst  the  illustrations  is  given  an  engraving  of  the  animal,  with  the 
parts  indicated  from  whence  the  different  joints  are  cut,  followed  by 
a  list  of  their  names. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON    QUADRUPEDS        431 
The  Names  of  the  Several  Joints  are  as  follows  : — 

HlND-QUARTER.  FORE-QUARTER. 

1.  Sirloin.  10.  Fore  rib  (6  ribs). 

2.  Rump.  n.  Middle  rib  (4  ribs). 

3.  Aitchbone.  u.  Chuck  rib  (2  ribs). 

4.  Buttock  or  Round.  13.  Leg  of  mutton  piece. 

Topside.  14.  Brisket. 

6.  Silverside.  15.  Clod. 

7.  Thick  flank.  16.  Neck  or  Sticking. 

8.  Thin  flank.  >hin. 

9.  Leg.  1 8.  Cheek. 

These  joints  are  generally  cooked  in  the  following  ways — 

HlND-QUARTER. 

(1)  Sirloin. — Corresponds  to  loin  of  mutton,  without  the  chump-end. 
Two  sirloins  together  correspond  to  saddle  of  mutton,  and  are  known 
as  a  baron  of  beef,  now  very  seldom  seen.  The  sirloin  is  almost  invariably 
roasted,  and  is  considered  the  best  joint  for  that  purpose.  Some  of  the  1 

>uet  is  always  taken  away,  and  some  persons  cook  the  under-cut  or 
roll  separately,  instead  of  roasting  it  with  the  sirloin.     The  under-cut 
than  any  other  part  for  entrees,  such  as  grenadines,  olives, 
lilk-ts  of  K-rf,  etc. 

(2)  Romp. — Broiling  steaks  should  be  cut  from  here,  although 
often  they  are  not.     For  stewing,  steak  from  another  part  does  as  \v«-ll, 
and  costs  several  pence  less.     Also  roasted.     A  first-rate  joint  for  any 
purpose. 

(3)  Aitchbone.— Often  salted  and  boiled. 

(4)  Buttock. — A  large  lump  of  solid  meat  without  much  fat.     The 

oastedin  large  establishments  where  economy  is  studied,  but  is 
boiled  or  st< 

(5)  Topside. — The  top  part  of  buttock,  cut  into  steaks  and  joints  for 
roasting. 

(6)  Silverside.— The  bottom  part  of  buttock,  generally  salted  and 
boil 

(7)  Thick  Flank. — Coarser  in  fibre  than  some  parts,  but  well  flavoured, 
-em-rally  tender.     No  bone  and  little  fat,  and  sold  at  a  reasonable 

price,  so  that  it  is  one  of  the  most  economical  parts  to  buy,  whether 
for  pics  and  puddings,  or  for  a  roast  ;  also  for  steaks. 

(8)  Thin  Flank. — May  be  used  for  stews,  but  is  rather  fat.     Is  al 
low-priced.     Perhaps  the  best  way  to  use  it  is  to  salt  or  pickle  it  and 

it  cold,  when  it  is  a  very  economical  joint. 

(9)  Leg. — Only  purchased  for  soup  meat,  or  the  lean  part  ior  slow 
stewing. 

FORE-QUARTER. 

(10)  Fore  Rib.— The  6  ril*  nearest  the  sirloin  arc  the  best  for  any 


432         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


purpose.  The  best  end  of  the  ribs,  or  wing  rib,  is  always  to  be  preferred. 
The  best  end  of  the  ribs  has  a  strip  of  yellow  gristle  running  about  an 
inch  from  the  outer  skin.  This  should  always  be  cut  out  before  it  comes  to 
table.  It  is  not  necessary  to  buy  all  6  ribs  at  once,  only  sufficient  to 
make  a  piece  thick  enough  to  stand  up  on  dish  when  roasted,  or  two  ribs. 
It  is  generally  thought  more  economical  to  have  the  bones  taken  out 
and  the  meat  rolled  round  ;  the  bones  then  serve  for  soup.  This  applies 
of  course  to  the  last  3  or  4  ribs,  not  the  wing  ribs. 

(n)  Middle  Rib. — Almost  always  roasted.     It  is  from  this    part  that 
the  top  and  back  ribs  are  obtained. 

(12)  Chuck  Rib. — Cut  into  steaks,  etc.,  mainly  for  stewing  or    pud- 
dings.    The  bladebone  steak  is  also  cut  from  here. 

(13)  Leg  of  Mutton  Piece. — Really  part  of  chuck  rib.    Solid  meat  with 
little  fat.     The  best  for  pies  and  puddings,  as  it  is  full  of  gravy.     Good 
steaks  are  cut  from  it,  and  it  is  very  economical  to  roast. 

(14)  Brisket,  or  Breast. — Sold  at  a  low  price  for  stewing  or  salting. 
Very  good  for  either  purpose,  but  rather  fat.     It  is  excellent  cold. 

(15)  Clod. — Part  of  this  is  often  sent  if  soup  meat  is  ordered.     If  it 
is  not  fat,  it  makes  good  pies  and  puddings,  but  the  meat  should  be 
stewed  first.     It  is  also  suitable  for  an  economical  stew. 

(16)  Neck. — Used  in  the  same  way  as  the  clod. 

(17)  Shin. — For  soups,  gravies  and  cheap  stews. 

(18)  Ox  Cheek. — This  is  too  bony  to  be  a  very  cheap  joint,  although 
it  is  sold  at  a  low  price,  and  can  be  made  very  palatable  by  slow  stewing, 
or  is  good  for  soup.     The  brains,  well  soaked,  and  boiled  or  fried,  make 
a  good  dish. 

Besides  these  joints,  the  following  parts  of  the  ox  are  sold  for  food  : — 

(19)  Cow-heel. — The   feet   are  boiled   and   neats-foot  oil   extracted. 
These  are  sold  by  butchers  with  the  skin  on,  and  are  cooked   and  sold 
by   tripe-dressers  or  used  for  soup.      They   make    as    good    jelly   as 
calves'  feet,  and  what  remains  of  them  is  very  good  eating.      They 
can  be  used  for  soup  in  the  same  way  as  calves'  head. 

(20)  Ox-tail. — For   soups  and   stews.     Considered   a  delicacy,   and, 
therefore,  not  cheap. 

(21)  Heart. — Generally  roasted.     Economical,  but,  on  account  of  the 
closeness  and  hardness  of  the  muscular  tissue,  very  indigestible. 

(22)  Tongue. — Can    be    bought    fresh    or    salted.     Is    considered    a 
delicacy.     Usually  boiled  and  eaten  cold,  but  also  stewed  as  an  entree. 

(23)  Liver. — Very  nutritious  and  very  cheap,  but  coarse  flavoured. 
Finds  a  ready  sale  in  the  poorest  quarters.     The  food  known  as  "  fag- 
gots," is  made  of  the  liver  and  lights  of  sheep  and  bullocks,  mixed  with 
some  fat. 

(24)  Lights,  or  Lungs. — Sold  for  cats'  and  dogs'  food. 

(25)  Kidneys. — For  puddings,  pies,  or  stewing.     They  are  cheaper 
and  less  delicate  than  the  kidneys  of  sheep,  and  are  difficult  of  digestion. 


i.  Hereford  Steer.       2.  Devon  Steer. 


PIGS. 


\ 


I 


i.  Large  White  Yorkshire.         2.  Berkshire. 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS    ON    QUADRUPEDS      433 

Kidneys  need  thorough  but  light  cooking,  for  if  they  are  exposed  to  a 
hitih  tt  mperature  they  dry  up  and  become  tasteless  and  horny. 

(26)  Tripe. — Sold  partially  cleaned  by  the  tripe-d 

the  iruKt  (li-^i  -tible  of  meats,  and  specially  suited  for  invalids, 
although  rather  fat.  Sometimes  served  as  an  entree.  It  consists  of 

unch  or  ruminant  stomach  of  the  ox.  "  Blanket  tripe,"  "  honey- 
comb tripe,"  and  "double  tripe,"  are  popular  names  derived  from 
their  respective  characteristic  conformations. 

(27)  Sweetbread. — Coarser  in  texture  than  that  of  the  calf,    ne 
and  careful  cooking. 

(28)  Suet. — The  inside  fat.     That  which  surrounds  the  kidneys  is  the 
firmest  and  best  for  all  purposes,  especially  for  puddings,  but  at  Christ  - 

pieces  of  white  fat  are  sold  in  its  stead. 

Spleen,  or  Milt  of  bullock,  sheep  and  pig,  is  sold  for  food.     It  is 
11  y  stulf«  .led  for  Bl 

not  possible    t«»  l.iv    down  id    iul<-    AS    to    the    nl.uive 

I  In-  j.unt 

I  vary,  p<  >'  way  of  a 

Nation,  tl,.-  f..ll,m  I  >c  offered  : — 

Kim  and  bui; 

12  ozs.  of  rumpsteak.     Of  shin  of  beef  cut  without  a  bone, 
a  shilling  buys  ij  lb.,  the  solid  mail  cut  from  the 

shoulder,  about  i  lb.  3  ozs.     Among  these  are  the  cheapest  of  a 
f   beef  is  only  c.r 

•st  a  lilt 

than  1  •  per  lb., but  then  ti  or  3  ozs.  of  bone  ir 

shillm  it.     The  shoulder  cosi 


TAB1  E  el'  THE   Kl  1   \1  I\  1     VALUE  OF  VARIOUS  PARTS  OF 

EF, 

ACTUAL  C«>ST  OF  THE  EATABLE  PORTION  OF  THE  DIFFERENT 

AFTER  DEDUCTING  LOSS  OF  WEIGHT  FROM  \V 
BY  DIFFEl  :>ESOFCOOKI 

t  care  has  been  taken  in  the  preparation  of  theso  tables  ;  all  the 

have  been  specially  eonk^d,  and   t!  tl  carefully 

Ii  will  many  to  sect1  ;nt  of  food 

the  doubtful  economy  of  some  of  t! 


434 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


Name  of  Joint. 

How  usually 
cooked. 

Weight 
before 
cooking. 

Weight 
when 
cooked, 
bone  and 

Total 
loss 
perlb. 

Average 
cost 
per  Ib. 

Cost  per  Ib. 
after  cook- 
ing, bone 
and  waste 

deducted. 

deducted. 

Ib.  ozs. 

Ib.  ozs. 

oz. 

s.     d. 

s.     d. 

Aitchbone       .      .      . 

Roasted     . 

8     9 

3     5 

9J 

0     7 

I      7 

Brisket      .... 

Boiled 

4  13 

2   13 

6| 

0     5J 

0     9* 

Buttock  (in  steaks)    . 

2      4 

2      3 

i 

I       0 

O    IlJ 

Heart         .... 

Roasted     . 

5     o 

4  13* 

i 

o     5 

o     6J 

Leg  of  mutton  piece   . 

Roasted     . 

6     8 

5     o 

31 

0    10 

i     i 

Ribs  (fore)      .      .  :  ;'; 

Roasted     . 

7     8 

4     4 

7 

O    II 

i     7i 

,.     (middle)       .    :*f> 

Roasted     . 

8     4 

4  13 

N 

o     9 

i     6| 

Topside      .... 

Baked 

5     2 

4     7i 

2 

0    10  \ 

O    IlJ 

„       (silver  side)   . 

Boiled 

6     5 

5     2 

3 

o     9 

0    II 

Rump  (steaks)     . 

Broiled 

I     8 

i     7i 

i 

I       2 

I       2j 

Sirloin        .... 

Roasted     . 

ii     8 

3     4 

41 

0    II 

I     3l 

Boiled 

6     o 

4      04 

4 

O      Q 

O    loi 

- 

^      V 

Note. — The  prices  quoted  are  average  ones  for  English  beef ;  Australian  beef  is  cheaper,  but  wastes 
a  little  more  in  cooking  ;  American,  U.S.,  a  fraction  lower. 


TABLE  GIVING  WEIGHT  OF  BONE,   SKIN   AND  WASTE   IN 
JOINTS  OF  BEEF. 


Name  of  Joint. 

Weight  of 
joint  when 
bought. 

Weight  of 
bone,  skin 
and  waste. 

Loss  of 
weight  by 
cooking. 

Total 
weight  of 
waste. 

Weight  of 
eatable 

inait  r. 

Ib.    oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.    oz. 

Aitchbone 

8     9 

2     3 

3      I 

5     4 

3     5 

Brisket  

4  13 

O    12 

I      4 

2       0 

2   13 

Lee:  of  mutton  piece  . 

6     8 

o     8 

I      O 

I     8 

5     o 

Ribs  (fore)       .      .     . 

7     3 

2      O 

i     4 

3     4 

4     4 

„      (middle)        .      . 

8     4 

2      I 

i     6 

3     7 

4  13 

Round         .... 

5     2 

0      2 

o     8J 

0    IOJ 

4     72 

„       (silver  side)    . 

6     5 

0    II 

o     8 

i     3 

5     2 

Rumpsteak 

i     8 

None 

o    oJ 

o    oj 

i     7J 

Sirloin          .... 

ii     8 

I    12 

i    a" 

3     4 

8     4 

Tongue        .... 

6     o 

0       I 

i     6i 

i     7i 

4     8i 

RECIPES  FOR  COOKING 
VEAL 

CHAPTER    XV 

693.— BLANQUETTE  OF  VEAL.     (See  Veal  Stew.) 

694.— BOUDINETTES    OF    VEAL.     (Fr.—  Boudinettes 
de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  lean  cooked  veal,  2  oz.  of  cooked  lean  ham  or 
tongue,  i  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese,  2  tablcspoonfuls  ot 
yolk  of  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  pig's  caul,  2  or  3  Ib.  of  spinach,  $  a  pint 
of  good  gravy,  meat  glaze. 

Method.  -Wash,  pick,  cook  and  rub  the  spinach  through  a  fine  sieve 

Vegetables).     Mince  the  veal  and  ham  very  finely,  put  them  into 

a  small  stewpan  with  i  tablespoonful  of  the  spinach  puree,  the  cheese, 

cream,  and  yolk  of  egg,  season   to  taste,  stir  and   cook  very  slowly 

or  4  minutes,  then  turn  on  to  a  plate  to  cool.     Cut  the  caul  into 

3$  inches  square,  shape  the  mixture  into  squares  of  ij  inches 

tor,  fold  them  in  the  pieces  of  caul,  and  bake  them  for  7  or  8 

minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.     Put  the  spinach  into  a  stewpan  with  2 

j>oonfuls  of  gravy,  dredge  with  a  little  flour, season  well  with  salt 

,  rc-ho.it,  and  then  arrange  in  an  oblong  form  in  the  centre 

of  «t  hot  dish.     Brush   the   boudinettcs  over   with  liquid  meat   glaze, 

;e   them  neatly  as  squares,  or  diamond  wise  on  the  spinach,  and 

pour  round  the  remainder  of  the  hot  gravy. 

Time. — 20  to  25  minutes,  after  the  spinach  is  cooked.     Average  Cost, 
iod.  to  2S.     Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

695.— BRAIN  CAKES.     (Fr.— Gateaux  de  Cervelles  de 
Veau.) 

Ingredients. — Calf's  brains,  i  small  onion  sliced,  i  bay-leaf,  6  peppcr- 

icrumbs,  frying-fat,  salt  and  pepper,  vinegar. 

Method.     Wash  the  brains  in  salt  and  water,  remove  the  skin  and 
them  remain  in  suit  and  water  until  wanted. 

they  may  be  tied  in  muslin  and  toiled  with  it 
•out   20  mimr  -n  cookc  they  must    t>c  put 

4 


436     HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

into  a  stewpan  with  as  much  water  as  will  cover  them,  i  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  the  slices  of  onion,  peppercorns  and 
bay-leaf,  and  cooked  gently  for  the  same  length  of  time,  or  until  firm. 
When  cool,  chop  finely,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  as 
much  beaten  egg  as  is  necessary  to  bind  the  ingredients  together. 
Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens,  and  when  cool  form  into 
small  round  cakes,  coat  them  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until 
lightly  browned  in  hot  fat. 

Time. — i  hour  altogether.  Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d.,  exclusive  of  the 
brains.  Sufficient  to  garnish  I  dish,  or,  when  served  as  a  separate  dish, 
for  3  or  4  persons. 

696.— VEAL   A   LA    ROMAINE.          (Fr.— Poitrine  de 
Veau  a  la  Romaine.) 

Ingredients. — A  breast  of  veal,  i  Ib.  of  sausage  meat,  £  a  Ib.  of  Carolina 
rice,  i  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese,  i£  pints  of  stock,  i  large  onion 
sliced,  i  carrot  sliced,  ^  a  small  turnip  sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay -leaf),  10  peppercorns,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Remove  all  bones  and  tendons,  trim  neatly,  and  season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Spread  the  sausage  meat  evenly  over  the 
inner  surface,  roll  up  lightly,  and  bind  securely  with  string.  Place  the 
bones  and  trimmings  in  a  stewpan  just  large  enough  to  contain  the 
meat,  add  the  prepared  vegetables,  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns, 
and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt.  Place  the  meat  on  the  top,  add  water 
to  nearly  cover  the  vegetables,  lay  a  greased  paper  on  the  meat,  and 
put  on  a  close-fitting  lid.  Cook  very  gently,  basting  frequently  and 
adding  more  water  or  stock  when  necessary.  Boil  the  rice  in  salted 
water  for  10  minutes,  drain  well,  replace  in  the  stewpan,  and  add  the 
BOILING  stock.  Simmer  gently  until  the  stock  becomes  absorbed, 
then  season  to  taste.  When  the  meat  has  cooked  for  2  hours  remove 
it  from  the  stewpan,  strain  and  replace  the  stock,  add  the  prepared 
rice,  and  put  back  the  meat.  Cover  with  a  greased  paper  as  before, 
cook  gently  for  40  minutes  longer,  then  take  up  the  meat  and  remove 
the  tape.  Stir  the  cheese  into  the  rice,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  lay  the 
meat  on  the  top,  and  serve.  The  appearance  of  the  meat  is  improved 
by  brushing  it  lightly  over  with  glaze.  Variety  may  be  introduced 
by  forming  the  rice  into  croquettes,  in  which  case  it  should  be  cooked 
in  stock,  mixed  with  one  or  two  eggs,  and  when  cold,  shaped  and  fried 
in  hot  fat. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.,  exclusive  of  the  veal. 
Sufficient  or  8  or  more  persons,  according  to  size.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

697.— BREAST    OF    VEAL    STEWED    WITH    PEAS. 
(Fr.— Poitrine   de   Veau    aux    Petits   Pois.) 

Ingredients. — Breast  of  veal,  forcemeat  balls  (see  No.  396.),    oz.  of 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    VEAL  437 

butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  2  tablcspoonfuls  of  mushroom  ketchup,  2  table- 
tuls  of  tomato  sauce,   I    tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,    i    table- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  a  bouquet-garni   (parsley,   thyme, 
af),  2  cloves,  2  blades  of  mace,  6  allspice, 6  peppercorns,  and  a  thin 
strip  of  lemon-rind  (all  these  should  be  tied  in  a  piece  of  muslin",  a 
rs  of  bacon,  i  pint  of  shelled  peas,  i  or  2  ozs.  of  dripping,  salt 
and   p-'p: 

Method. — Wipe  the  meat  \vitha  clean  dampcloth.and  cut  it  into  i 

:iient  for  serving.      Melt  the  dripping  in  a  stcwpan,  and  fry  the 

mtil  lightly  browned  ;  fry  the  onion  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  drain 

off  all  the  fat.     Have  ready  as  much  boiling  stock  or  water  as  will  just 

the  meat,  put  it  into  the  stewpan,  with  the  herbs,  cloves,  mace, 

allspice,  peppercorns,  and  lemon-rind,  add  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt, 

tiul  simmer  genth  :ly  2  hours.     Meamvhr 

icon  and  run  a  skewer  through  it,  prepare  the  forcemeat  as  dii 
but  in  "ist  than  when  iir  >r  stuffing,  shape  it  into 

balU  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  either  fry  or  bake  them    until  crisp  and 
broun  in  a  little  hot  butter  or  fat  ;  the  bacon  may  be  cooked  at  the 
same  time.     When  the  meat  has  stewed  for  2  hours  put  in  the 
cook  until  nearly  tender,  then  add  the  butter  and  flour  (kneaded  smoothly 

ry  small  portions.     Continue  the  cooking  until  th 
then  take  out  the  herbs,  etc.,  put    in  the  ketchup,  tomato 
sauce,  lemon- juice,  season  to  taste,  and  serve  garnished  with  the  force- 
balls  and  rolls  of  bacon. 

Time.— About  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.       Sufficient  for  6  or 

698. -BREAST     OF     VEAL,     STEWED.       (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — Breast  of  veal,  2  onions,  2  small  carrots,  i  very  small 
turnip,  12  peppercorns,  salt,  parsley  or  piquante  sauce  (see  Sauces). 
Method.     Tut  the  veal  into  a  saucepan  with  as  much  cold  water  as 
ring  to  the  boil,  skim  well,  add  the  vegetables  cut  into 
and  peppercorns,  salt  to  taste,  cover  closely,  and  simmer  gently 
or  3  hours.      To  serve,  pour  a  little  sauce  over  the  veal,  an<: 
the  •  r  to  table  in  a  tureen. 

Time.     From  j\  to   ;  hours.     Average  Cost,  (yd.  to  lod.  per  Ib.     Suffi- 
cient, allow  4  Ib.  for  8  or  9  persons. 

699. -BREAST  OF  VEAL  ROLLED  AND  STEWED 

Ingredients.  -A  breast  of  veal,  veal  forcemeat     v  <its),  roils 

non. 

Method.  1  tendons  (boil  t: 

gravy  (**  ndons;.  h  the 


438  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

cutlet  bat  or  rolling  pin,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  spread  on 
a  thin  layer  of  forcemeat,  roll  up  tightly,  and  bind  firmly  with  tape. 
Have  ready  boiling  in  a  saucepan  sufficient  stock  or  water  to  cover  the 
joint  ;  if  water  is  used,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  -£  a  turnip,  and  a  little  celery 
and  seasoning  should  be  added  when  the  water  boils.  Bring  to  the 
boil,  skim  well,  and  simmer  gently  for  3  or  3^  hours,  according  to  size. 
Meanwhile  prepare  the  gravy  (see  Gravies),  forcemeat  balls,  and  rolls 
of  bacon.  When  sufficiently  cooked,  remove  the  meat  to  a  hot  dish, 
take  away  the  tapes,  and  garnish  with  the  forcemeat  balls,  rolls  of 
bacon  and  cut  lemon.  When  the  veal  is  not  a  good  colour  a  little  of  the 
brown  gravy  may  be  used  to  partially  mask  it,  otherwise  serve  the  whole 
in  a  tureen. 

Time. — From  3^  to  4  hours  altogether.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient,  allow  4  Ib.  for  5  or  6  persons. 

700.— CALF'S    BRAINS,    FRIED.     (Fr.— Cervelles  de 
Veau  f rites.) 

Ingredients. — i  or  2  Calf's  brains,  vinegar,  i  small  onion.  For  the  batter  : 
2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  %  a  gill  of  tepid  water,  the 
white  of  i  egg,  salt,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Remove  the  skin  and  fibres,  wash  the  brains  in  several 
waters,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  onion  (sliced),  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes. 
Remove  from  the  stewpan,  strain,  dry  well,  and  cut  the  brains  into 
rather  thin  slices.  Add  a  little  salt  to  the  flour,  mix  smoothly  with  the 
salad  oil  and  water,  whip  the  white  of  egg  stiffly,  and  stir  it  lightly  into 
the  batter.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  hot  frying-fat,  dip  each  slice 
of  brains  into  the  batter,  drop  these  into  the  hot  fat,  and  fry  them  until 
lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  dish  up,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and 
serve  hot. 

Time. — From  30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons. 

701.— CALF'S    BRAINS,    MILAN    STYLE. 

(Fr. — Cervelles    de   Veau   a    la    Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  calves'  brains,  f  of  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  £  of  a  pint 
of  well  reduced  white  sauce  (see  Sauces),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream, 
4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  i  small  onion,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  i  egg, 
breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  salt  and  pepper,  flour. 

Method. — Prepare,  cook  and  slice  the  brains  as  directed  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe  ;  season  a  dessertspoonful  of  flour  with  salt  and  pepper, 
dip  each  slice  of  brains  in  the  mixture,  brush  over  with  egg,  coat  with 
breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  lightly  browned  in  hot  fat.  Break  the 
macaroni  into  short  lengths,  put  it  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  439 

rapidly  until  tender,  then  drain  well.  Have  the  white  sauce  ready, 
add  to  it  the  macaroni  and  cream,  and  season  to  taste.  Dish  the  slices 
of  brains  on  a  potato  border,  pile  the  macaroni  in  the  centre,  pour 
round  a  little  of  the  hot  tomato  sauce,  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a 
tureen. 

Time. — 40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  4  to  6 
persons. 

702.— CALF'S  BRAINS  WITH  MAITRE  D'HOTEL 
SAUCE.  (Fr.— Cervelles  de  Veau  a  la 
Maitre  d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — Calf's  brains,  £  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces), 
I  teaspooonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
i  small  onion,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  brains  as  directed  in  the  preceding  re- 
cipe, and  cut  them  into  small  thick  slices.      Have  the  sauce  ready  in  a 
.  -an,  add  the  parsley,  lemon-juice,  and  season  to  taste.     Put  in  the 
s  of  brain,  and,  when  thoroughly  hot,  ser 
Time. — About  30  minutes.       Average    Cost,  is.    6d.        Sufficient,    for 

3  or  4  persons. 

703.— CALF'S  BRAINS  WITH  BLACK  BUTTER 
SAUCE.  (Fr.— Cervelles  de  Veau  au  Beurre 
Noir.) 

Ingredients.— 2  calves'  brains,  £  of  a  pint  of  good  stock.     For  the 
sauce  :  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  ^  a 
lonful  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  brains  in  salt  and  water,  remove  the  skin  and 
fibres,  and  drain  well.  Warm  the  stock  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  1 
and  simmer  gently  for  about  10  minutes,  then  drain  well.  Fry  the 
butter  in  an  omelette  pan  over  a  quick  fire  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown 
colour,  then  add  to  it  the  parsley  and  vinegar,  pour  this  over  the  brains, 
and  s< 

Time. — From  20  to  25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.     Sufficient  for 

4  to  6  persons. 

704.— CALF'S  BRAINS  WITH  POULETTE  SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Cervelles  de  Veau  a  la  Poulette.) 

Ingredients. — 2  calves'  brains.     For  the  sauce  :  |  a  pint  of  stock, 

i^  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  2  tablespoon fuls  of  cream,  the  juice 

mon,  i  shallot,  finely-chopped,  i  teaspoonful  of  fiiu  1\ --chopped 

v.     For  the  rice  l><  lute  stock,  4  ozs.  of  rice,  the 

yolk  of   :   -  nutmeg. 

Method.     W.ish  tl.  rs,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 


440  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

with  as  much  water  as  will  cover  them,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Boil  up  slowly,  then  remove  the  brains, 
drain  well,  and  cut  them  into  thick  dice.  Wash  the  rice,  blanch  and  drain 
it  well,  and  cook  in  the  stock  until  tender.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  small 
stewpan,  fry  the  shallot  until  lightly  browned,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook 
for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  pour  in  the  stock,  and  stir  until 
it  boils.  Simmer  the  sauce  gently  for  10  minutes,  strain,  return  to  the 
stewpan,  put  in  the  brains,  cream,  remainder  of  the  lemon-juice,  and 
re-heat  gradually.  When  the  rice  is  tender,  season  it  with  salt,  pepper, 
add  a  pinch  of  nutmeg  and  the  yolk  of  egg,  cook  for  a  few  minutes 
longer,  then  turn  into  a  well-buttered  border  mould.  Shake  the  rice  well 
down,  in  order  that  it  may  fill  every  part  of  the  mould,  then  turn  it  on 
to  a  hot  dish.  Add  the  parsley  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  dish 
the  ragout  in  the  centre  of  the  rice  border,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — About  I  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  gd.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  6  or 
7  persons. 

705.— CALF'S      EARS.         (Fr.— Oreilles      de      Veau 
Farcies). 

Ingredients. — 2  ears,  forcemeat,  No.  396, 1-2  small  mushrooms,  i  onion 
stuck  with  2  cloves,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  \  a  pint  of  stock,  No.  7,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  i  yolk  of  egg,  i  sliced  lemon,  salt  and  pepper,  pepper- 
corns. 

Method. — The  ears  should  be  cut  as  deeply  as  possible  from  the 
head.  Wash,  blanch,  and  drain  them  thoroughly,  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan with  the  milk,  a  little  water  and  a  seasoning  of  salt,  stew  gently 
for  i  hour,  then  drain  and  dry  well.  Fill  the  insides  with  veal  force- 
meat, fold  and  tie  securely,  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  stock, 
onion,  cloves,  6  peppercorns,  and  salt  to  taste.  Cook  gently  for 
i  hour,  then  strain  off  the  stock,  and  keep  the  ears  as  hot  as  possible. 
Meanwhile  wash  and  skin  the  mushrooms,  stew  them  until  tender  in 
a  little  of  the  milk  in  which  the  ears  were  cooked,  and  halve  or  quarter 
them.  Beat  the  yolk  of  egg  and  cream  together,  and  add  the  strained 
stock,  stirring  meanwhile.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  stir  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  until  the  yolk  of  egg  thickens,  add  the  prepared  mush- 
rooms, and  season  to  taste.  Place  the  ears  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce 
round,  garnish  with  sliced  lemon,  and  if  liked  some  small  fried  force- 
meat balls. 

Time. — 2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

706.— CALF'S  FEET,  FRIED.       (Fr.— Pieds  de  Veau 
a  1'Horly.) 

Ingredients. — 2  calves'  feet.  For  the  stock  :  i  carrot,  i  onion,  6  pepper- 
corns. For  the  marinade  (brine  in  which  meat,  etc.,  is  soused)  : 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING    VEAL  441 

j   tabli  -noonfuls  of  salad-oil,   j  tablcspoonfuls  of  vinegar,   I   dc 
spoonful   of   finely-chopped    par>kv,    i    tcaspoonful   of   linely-i  hopped 
onion,  salt  and  pepper,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  flour.  Tomato 
sauce. 

Method. — Wash   and   scald    the  cal\  bone    tin-    U] 

:nk-bone,  split  them  in  two,  and  soak  them  in  cold 
water  for  2  hours.  Put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  some  salt.  co\er  with 
cold  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  drain.  Return  to  the  stewpan  with 
as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  the  feet,  add  the  peppercorns,  onion 

uTOt  (sliced),  and  cook  slowly  until  tender.      i 

of  the  bon-  until  cold,  tin  iiem,  set  them  in  a 

the  inaiinade,  and  let  them  remain  in  it  for  i  hour, 

kg    or   turning    occasionally,   in    order    that   both    sides   may  be 

equally  flavoured.     Season  a  heaped  tcaspoonful  of  flour  \\ith  -alt  and 

pepper  ;  drain  : 

.    and    fry  in    hot  fat  until  i 
browned.  ;h    tomato  K 

Time.     1  r<>m  3  to  3}  hours  to  boil   the   kxt.        Average  Cost,  . 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  pers< 

707.— CALF'S     HEAD,     COLLARED     (Cold). 

(Fr.— Tete  de  Veau  Farcie.> 

Ingredients.     A  i  al  .  i  Ib.  of  1  ;  ham,  j  hard  i 

1  tablrsp.  ,  Around  inaee,  nutnu  j, 

salt   .i!  a   turnip, 

i  strip  ot  celery,  a  bouquet  garni  (i.'  v,  thyme.  if),   12 

pep| 

Method.— Cut  .1    in    half,  take    out    the 

them    with     the     ton-ue     as    a     s«  .         Wash     the 

t   it   soak   f<  »r    i  _•    hours 

liich  should   be    changed    several   ti  1'ut   it 

i   saucepan    with   a   handful    of    salt,   cover    with    cold    \ 
to  the  boil,  tl  in,  and  wash  well  in  cold  \^  Ivcturn 

.    !>'>il.    skim    well,  then   add 

s,  bouquet-garni,   pe|i|x?rcorns,  salt   to   taste, 

ly  for  i^  to  2  hours,  <>r  until  the  bones  can  be  easily 

a  out  on  the  table,  seas 

!Je  on   it    a  1:  1    nuime 

tribut  s  of  ham  and  sli«  '--d  eg::  i-\enl 

ley  and  a  lit  lie  mon-  t!  and  seas' 

:oll    np   tightly,   and    wrap  in   a   jniddini;-cloth. 

1  cook 
gentl\  'ii  the  cloth,  and  press  bet- 

•  •s   or   boards   until    c«>ld. 
Time. — To  cook,  about  4  hours.     Average  Cost, 


442  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

708.— CALF'S  HEAD,  COLLARED  (Hot). 

Ingredients. — A  calf's  head.  For  the  forcemeat  :  the  calf's  brains  and 
tongue,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  level  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  the  grated  rind 
of  a  lemon,  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper.  For  the  sauce  :  i  pint  of  the  stock, 
i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  cooked  coarsely- 
chopped  mushrooms,  i  tablespoonful  of  coarsely-chopped  gherkins, 
the  juice  of  i  lemon.  For  the  stock  :  see  preceding  recipe. 

Method. — Prepare  blanch,  and  partially  boil  the  head  as  directed 
in  the  preceding  recipe.  Boil  the  tongue  in  the  same  saucepan,  remove 
the  skin,  and  chop  it  finely.  Wash  the  brains  in  several  waters,  let 
them  remain  in  salt  and  water  until  wanted,  then  tie  loosely  in  a  piece 
of  muslin,  boil  with  the  head  for  about  £  an  hour,  and  when  cool  chop 
coarsely.  Mix  the  tongue,  brains,  breadcrumbs,  parsley,  herbs  and 
lemon-rind  together,  add  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and 
beaten  egg  in  sufficient  quantity  to  thoroughly  moisten  the  whole. 
Bone,  flatten,  and  season  the  head,  spread  on  the  forcemeat,  roll  up 
tightly  in  a  cloth,  and  cook  gently  for  2  hours.  When  nearly  ready, 
melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  for  5  minutes. 
Add  to  the  roux  or  thickening  a  pint  of  stock  from  the  saucepan,  stir 
until  it  boils,  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  then  put  in  the  mushrooms, 
gherkins,  lemon-juice,  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Serve  the  head  on  a  hot 
dish,  garnished  with  cut  lemon,  and  the  sauce  separately  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — About  4  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  75.  to  93.  6d. 

709.— CALF'S  HEAD,  BOILED.  (Fr.—  Tete  de  Veau 
Bouillie.) 

Ingredients. — A  calf's  head.  For  the  stock  :  i  or  2  onions,  i  or  2 
carrots,  i  small  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns,  salt.  For  the  sauce  :  i£  oz.  of 
butter,  1 4-  ozs.  of  flour,  \  a  pint  of  stock,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  lemon-juice 
i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  egg,  browned  bread- 
crumbs. 

Method. — Prepare  and  blanch  the  head  in  the  usual  manner,  return 
it  to  the  saucepan,  cover  with  cold  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  skim 
well,  then  add  the  prepared  vegetables,  herbs,  peppercorns,  salt  to 
taste,  and  simmer  from  2  to  2^  hours,  according  to  size.  Boil  the 
tongue  at  the  same  time.  Wash  the  brains  in  several  waters,  let  them 
remain  in  salt  and  water  until  wanted,  then  tie  loosely  in  a  piece  of 
muslin,  boil  with  the  head  for  about  \  an  hour,  and  when  cool,  chop 
coarsely  and  use  for  the  sauce.  The  head  may  be  served  plainly- 
boiled,  but  it  presents  a  better  appearance  when  it  has  been  coated 
with  egg  and  brown  breadcrumbs,  and  baked  for  20  minutes  in  the  oven, 
being  frequently  basted  during  the  time.  It  is  more  easily  carved, 
and  the  various  parts  are  more  evenly  distributed  when  the  bones  are 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  443 

removed,  and  the  head  rolled,  before  baking  ;  it  must  be  bound  with 
strong  tape,  and  the  bare  parts  under  the  tape  sprinkled  with  bread- 
crumbs before  serving.  About  £  an  hour  before  the  head  is  ready  to 

melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour  and  cook  for  5  minutes, 
then  pour  in  the  milk  and  £  a  pint  of  liquor  from  the  pot  in  which  the 
head  is  cooking.  Stir  until  it  boils,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  add  the 

:  ed  brains,  parsley,  lemon-juice,  and  seasoning  to  taste.     Remove 
the  skin  from  the  tongue,  and  cut  it  into  thin  slices.     Place  tin- 
on  a  hot  dish  (if  not  egged  and  breadcrumbed,  brush  over  with  glaze), 
garnish  with  slices  of  tongue  and  lemon,  and  serve  the  sauce  in  a 

i.     A  piece  of  boiled  ham  or  bacon  is  occasional.  I  as  an 

•mpaniment  to  this  dish. 
Time. — To  cook,  about  4  hours.     Average  Cost,  5$.  6d.  to  8s. 

710. -CALF'S  HEAD,  FRIED.       (Fr.— Fritot  de  Tete 
de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  a  cooked  calf's  head.     For  the  marinade  : 

2  tablcspoonfuls  of  salad  oil  or  melted  butter,  i  tablespoonful of  lemon- 

r,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  oni«>n.   i 

teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  ^  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs, 

ud  pepper.     For  the  batter  :  4  ozs.  of  flour,  2  tablespoon! 
salad  oil,  ^  of  a  pint  of  tepid  water,  the  whites  of  2  eggs, salt 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  strips  about  2$  inches  long  and  i  inch 
place  them  in  a  deep  dsh,  pour  over  the  marinade,  and  allow  the 
o  remain  in  it  for  at  least  i  hour.     Mix  the  flour,  salt,  salad-oil 
smoothly  together;  whisk   the  white  of  egg  stiffly,  and  stir  it 
y  into  the  batter.     Drain  the  pieces  of  meat  well,  dip  them  into  the 
.  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.     Pile  on  a  hot 
irnish  \\ith  fried  parsley.     When  a  more  elaborate  dish  is  re- 
I,  the  fried  strips  may  be  dished  in  a  circle  on   a  border  of 
mashed  potato,  with  the  centre  filled  with  a  puree  of  spinach,  asparagus 
whatever  may  be-  <1,  and  either  tomato  or  a  good 

ice  poured  round. 
Time. — 1$  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  meat. 

711.— CALF'S    HEAD    WITH    POULETTE    SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Tete  de  Veau  a  la  Poulette.) 

Ingredients. — Some  boned  boiled  calf's  head,  i  pint  of  white  sauce  (see 
-'),  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  i  dessertspoonful 

•ped  parsley,  lemon-juice  to  taste,  salt  and  pepj> 
Method.  -Cut  the  i  »f  the  cal:  into  nice  slices, 

^auce  as  d  l<-t  it  CO 

1  together,  and  stir  t) 


444  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

the  side  of  the  fire  for  2  or  3  minutes,  but  the  sauce  must  not  boil,  or  the 
egg  may  curdle.  Put  in  the  meat,  parsley,  lemon-juice,  add  seasoning 
to  taste,  cover  closely,  and  stand  the  stewpan  in  the  bain-marie,  or 
in  a  tin  of  hot  water,  until  the  meat  is  thoroughly  hot,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  30  minutes,  after  the  white  sauce  is  made.  Average 
Cost,  ?s.  6d.  to  8s.  6d. 

712.— CALF'S  HEAD  WITH  TOMATO  SAUCE. 

(Fr.—  Tete  de  Veau  a  la  Tomate.) 

Ingredients, — Half  a  boned  calf's  head,  |-  pint  of  tomato  sauce 
(see  Sauces),  3  or  4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  pieces  about  f  of  an  inch  long,  put 
these  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  rapidly  until  tender.  Cut  the 
remains  of  the  calf's  head  into  slices  convenient  for  serving.  Have 
the  tomato  sauce  ready  in  a  stewpan,  add  to  it  the  macaroni  and  meat, 
season  to  taste,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  %  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  from  33.  9d.  to  45.  9d. 

7i3._CALF'S  HEAD  WITH  MAITRE  D'HOTEL 
SAUCE.  (Fr.— Tete  de  Veau  a  la  Maitre 
d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  a  calf's  head,  i  pint  of  white  sauce  (see 
Sauces)  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving.  Make 
the  sauce  as  directed  put  in  the  pieces  of  calf's  head  and  let  them 
become  thoroughly  hot,  then  add  the  parsley  and  lemon-juice,  season 
to  taste  and  serve. 

Time. — 15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.   exclusive  of  the  calf's  head. 

714.— CALF'S  HEAD,  HASHED. 

Ingredients. — \  a  calf's  head  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats)  a  few 
rashers  of  bacon,  i  pint  of  liquor  in  which  the  head  was  cooked  i  glass 
of  sherry,  12  button  mushrooms,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour.  For 
the  brain  cakes  :  2  eggs,  breadcrumbs,  salt,  pepper,  mace,  herbs.  For 
the  stock  :  2  onions,  2  carrots,  i  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  10  peppercorns, 
a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt. 

Method. — Prepare  and  blanch  the  head  as  directed  in  "  Calf's  Head, 
Collared,"  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  bring  to  the  boil,  skim  well,  add 
the  prepared  vegetables,  herbs,  peppercorns,  and  salt  to  taste,  and 
simmer  gently  until  the  bones  can  be  easily  removed.  Drain  the  head, 
strain  the  stock,  put  i  quart  of  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  boil  rapidly  to 
reduce.  Remove  the  bones  from  the  head,  cut  the  meat  into  pieces 


RECIPES    FOR    COoKiXt,    VEAL  445 

i|  inches  square,  skin  the  tongue,  and  cut  it  into  £  inch  dice.     Wash 
the  brains  in  3  or  4  waters,  let  them  remain  in  salt  and  water  until 
:ited,  then  tie  them  in  a  piece  of  muslin,  boil  with  the  head  for  £  an 
hour,  and  make  into  cakes  (see  Brain  Cakes,  No.  695).     Make  the  force- 
-  directed,  shape  into  balls,  and  either  bake  or  fry  them  in  hot 
fat  for  about    15   minutes  ;  roll  the  rashers  of  bacon,  run  a  sk< 
through  them,  and  either  fry  or  bake  until  crisp.     Knead  the  flour 
and  butter  together,  add  the  mixture  to  the  reduced  stock,  and  when 
smoothly  mixed  put  in  the  pieces  of  calf's  head,  tongue,  mushrooms 
(previously  cooked  and  cut  into  j  or  4  pieces,  according  to  their  size), 
-on  to  ta  simmer  gently  for  \  an  hour,  then  add 

the  .      ('tarnish  with  the  forcemeat   halls,  brain  i\>' 

and  roll> 

Time. — 2\  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  5*.  to  r,s.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
>ns. 

715.— CALF'S  HEAD,  MOULDED. 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  a  id.     To  i  Ib.  a  Ib. 

of  ham  or  bacon,  3  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  i  ler. 
i   teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  \  a  pint  (about)  of  redi; 
k  in  which  the  head  was  cooked,  a  pinch  each  of  nutmeg,  ground 

id  ground  cloves,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Cut  the  remains  of  th<  <  ad  and  ham  or  bacon  into 

due,  »  ut  tin-  eg  *a  into  \\\  a 

pattern  on  the  bottom  of  a  but  mix  the  : 

•••in 

of  the  mould  wit '.  Liver  of  .  .  the  top  of  it 

thin  h.iin  or  bacov.  ml  ^uinkle  well 

,    the   lla.  oat    until    the   mould    is   full,   pour 

in  the  warm  stock,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake  for 
hours  in  a  slow  oven.     Add  a  little  more  hot  stock  as  soon  as  the  mould 
•ill,  turn  out  of  the  mould,  garnish  with  small 

Time. — To  cook,  abou  rs,      Average   Cost,    23.  9d.  to  j>. 

Sufficient  t  >ns. 

716.  -CALF'S    HEAD    PIE.     (/•>.  -Pat6    de    Tete    de 
Veau.) 

Ingredients.— 1  ham  or  bacon, 

?  balls  (see  F«  •  ,  j  hard-l>oi!  \  a  pint  of  st< 

bs,  the 
t    \   a  lemon,  a  pineh  of  ground  mace,  a  j>ir.-  •«! 

Method.     Cut   th<    : 


446         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

into  narrow  strips,  cut  the  eggs  into  thin  slices,  mix  the  force- 
meat rather  stiffly  with  a  little  raw  egg,  and  shape  into  small  balls. 
Put  a  fairly  thick  layer  of  calf's  head  on  the  bottom  of  a  piedish,  cover 
with  a  thin  layer  of  ham  or  bacon,  add  a  few  slices  of  egg,  and  a  good 
sprinkling  of  salt,  pepper,  herbs,  mace,  nutmeg,  and  lemon-rind. 
Repeat  until  the  dish  is  full,  add  the  stock,  and  cover  with  the  pastry, 
Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  i  hour,  when  cooked  pour  in, 
through  the  hole  on  the  top,  a  little  hot  jellied  stock,  and  set  aside 
until  cold. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  45.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

717.— CALF'S   KIDNEY  WITH   SCRAMBLED   EGGS. 
(Fr.— Rognons   aux   Oeufs    Brouilles.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  or  2  small  calf's  kidneys,  £  a  pint  of  Espagnole 
sauce  (see  sauces),  £  of  a  pint  of  gravy  or  good  stock,  i  glass  of  sherry, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  2  shallots 
or  i  very  small  onion  finely  chopped,  4  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  milk 
(about),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  sauce  and  gravy  together  for  £  an  hour,  then  add 
the  sherry.  Remove  all  fat  and  skin  from  the  kidney,  cut  it  into  very 
thin  slices,  and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  half  the  butter 
in  a  saute-pan  or  frying-pan,  fry  the  shallots  lightly,  add  the  slices  of 
kidney,  and  fry  quickly  on  both  sides,  shaking  the  pan  meanwhile 
over  the  fire.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  kidney,  draw  the  pan  to  the 
side  of  the  fire,  and  cook  slowly  for  10  or  1 5  minutes.  Beat  up  the  eggs, 
add  to  them  about  i  tablespoonful  of  milk  and  season  to  taste. 
Melt  the  remainder  of  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  pour  in  the  eggs,  cook 
very  gently,  and  stir  until  they  thicken.  Arrange  the  kidney  in  a  circle 
on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  round,  and  pile  the  scrambled  eggs  in  the 
centre.  Sprinkle  the  parsley  over  the  whole,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  50  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 

718.— CALF'S  LIVER  BRAISED.     Fr.— (Foie  de  Veau, 
Braise.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  calf's  liver,  a  few  strips  of  larding-bacon,  \ 
a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces),  £  of  a  pint  of  good  stock,  i  glass 
of  port  wine,  the  juice  of  \  a  lemon,  i  small  onion  sliced,  i  small  carrot 
sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  blade  of  mace, 
i  bay-leaf,  6  peppercorns,  i  clove,  a  small  slice  of  ham  or  bacon  cut 
into  strips,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Soak  the  liver  in  cold  water  for  20  minutes,  then  drain, 
dry  well,  and  insert  the  strips  of  bacon,  which  should  be  about  |  of  an 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  447 

inch  thick  and  i£  inches  long.     Melt  the  butter  in  a  shallow  stcwpan, 
add  the  onion,  carrot,  and  ham,  fry  slightly,  then  put  in  the  liver  and 
let  it  brown.     Pour  off  the  fat,  add  the  brown  sauce,  stock,  bouquet- 
garni,  mace,  bay-leaf,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  i  hour.     Then  add 
me,  lemon- juice  and  parsley,  boil,  simmer  for  10  minutes  longer, 
remove  the  liver  to  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 
Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2S.  6d. 

719.— CALF'S  LIVER  WITH  ONION  PUREE. 

(Fr.— Foie  de  Veau  a  la  Clermont.) 

Ingredients. — J  Ib.  of  calves'  liver,  I  large  Spanish  onion,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  £  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce  (see  Sauces),  £  of  a  pint  of  stock, 
i  tahlespoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley. 

Method.— Peel  and  blanch  the  onion,  cut  it  into  very  small  dice,  fry 
in  J  of  the  butter  until  lightly  browned,  then  add  the  stock,  and  cook 
,  until  reduced  to  a  thick  puree,  adding  the  brown  sauce  gradually 
as  the  stock  boils  away.  Cut  the  liver  into  slices  about  f  of  an  inch 
in  thickness,  cut  off  the  corners  and  trim  to  a  uniform  oval  or  round 
shape.  Mix  the  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  £  of  a  tcaspoonful 
per  together  on  a  plate,  and  dip  the  slices  of  liver  in  the  mixture. 
Melt  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter  in  a  saut6-pan,  and  fry  the  liver  on 
both  sides  until  nicely  browned  and  firm  to  the  touch,  then  drain  well. 
Season  the  onion  puree  to  taste,  spread  it  lightly  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange 
the  slices  of  liver  on  the  top,  sprinkle  with  pa 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Avenge  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

720. -CALF'S  LIVER  AND  BACON. 

(Fr.— Fritot  de  Foie  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients.— i  Ib.  of  calf's  liver,  $  a  Ib.  of  bacon,  i  oz.  of  butter,  flour, 

and  pepper. 

Method.  r,  and  cut  it  into  slices  about  $  of  an 

:;i  thickness  ;  add  a  good  seasoning  of    salt  and  pepper  to    a 

i  spoonful  of  flour,  and  dip  the  pieces  of  liver  in  the  mixture. 

he  frying  pan,  put  in  the  bacon,  cut  into  thin  slices,  fry  slowly, 

«•  to  a  HOT  tin,  and  keep  hot  until  wanted.     Fry  t  in  the 

::itil  nicely  browned  on  both  sides,  then  remove  to  a  hoi 
Pour  away  the  bacon  fat,  add  the  butter  (the  bacon  fat  may  be  used 
!  when  not  disliked  ,  sprinkle  in  about  a  tablespoon ful  of  flour, 
stir  and  fry  until  brown.  Add  about  $  a  pint  of  warm  water,  stir  until 
it  boils,  and  season  to  taste.     Arrange  the  pieces  of  liver  in  a  close 
.in  the  gravy  over,  place  the  slices  of  bacon  on  the  top,  and 
rred,  the  gra<  1  scparatelv  in  a  tureen, 

and  t;  ,  of  bacon  curled  before  frying,  and  piled  in  the  centre 

of  t; 


44$  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time.— About  35  or  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

721.— CALF'S    LIVER    WITH    PIQUANTE    SAUCE. 
(Fr. — Foie  de  Veau  a  la  Sauce  Piquante.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  calf's  liver,  frying  fat.  For  the  sauce  :  \  a  pint 
of  water,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  4  shallots  or  i  small  onion  finely- 
chopped,  2  gherkins  coarsely- chopped,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  liver  thoroughly,  and  cut  it  into  neat 
slices.  Mix  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  |  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper  together,  and  dip  the  pieces  of  liver  in  the  mix- 
ture. Place  the  shallots  or  onion,  gherkins  and  vinegar  in  a  small 
stewpan,  boil  rapidly  for  10  minutes,  and  keep  it  hot.  Fry  the  liver  in 
hot  fat  until  lightly  cooked  and  nicely  browned,  then  remove  and  keep 
it  as  hot  as  possible.  Pour  away  any  fat  that  remains  in  the  frying- 
pan,  but  leave  all  the  brown  sediment,  add  the  butter,  and  when 
hot  sprinkle  in  the  flour.  Stir  and  fry  slowly  until  well  browned,  add 
the  water  and  seasoning  to  taste,  stir  until  boiling,  simmer  gently  for  5 
minutes,  then  strain  and  mix  with  the  vinegar,  etc.  Arrange  the  liver 
neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  round,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — To  fry  the  liver,  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

722.— CALF'S    HEART,    BAKED.        (Fr.— Coeur    de 
Veau  Roti.) 

Ingredients. — A  calf's  heart,  veal  forcemeat  {see  Forcemeats),  a  few 
rashers  of  bacon,  salt  and  pepper,  fat,  brown  gravy  (see  Gravies). 

Method. — Wash  the  heart  in  several  waters,  let  it  remain  in  cold  water 
i  hour,  then  drain,  and  dry  thoroughly.  Fill  the  inside  with  forcemeat, 
tie  a  piece  of  oiled  or  buttered  paper  round  it,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  about  2  hours.  Baste  well,  and  about  %  an  hour  before  serving 
remove  the  paper  and  dredge  well  with  flour.  The  gravy  in  the  tin 
may  be  used  to  enrich  or  form  the  basis  of  the  brown  gravy.  Make  this 
hot  and  pour  round  the  dish.  Garnish  with  fried  bacon. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost.  9d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 

723.— CREPINETTES  OF  VEAL.        (Fr.— Crepinettes 
de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  cooked  lean  veal,  i  oz.  of  cooked  ham  or  tongue, 
4  preserved  mushrooms,  i  small  truffle,  6  or  7  tablespoonfuls  of  spinach 
puree,  i  egg,  a  good  pinch  of  grated  lemon-rind,  a  small  pinch  of  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper,  pig's  caul.,  meat  glaze,  5  or  6  oval  paper  cases. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKIMi    VEAL  449 

Method.— Prepare  the  spinach  puree  (see  Vegetables),  mince  tin- 
am!  ham  very  finely,  cut  the  mushrooms  and  truffles  into  fine  short 
strips,  add  the  lemon-rind,  nutmeg,  season  to  taste,  mix  well  together, 
and  bind  with  the  egg.     Cut  the  caul  into  pieces  about  4  inch 
and  2\  inches  wide,  shape  the  mixture  into  small  oval  forms,  2  iiu 
long,  and  nearly  i  j  inches  wide,  fold  them  in   the  caul,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  7  or  8  minutes.     Put  the  spinach  puree  into  a  s: 
pan,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  good  gravy  or  cream,  dredge  in  a  little  flour, 
on  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  thoroughly  hot,  put  a  table- 
spoonful  into  each  paper  case.     Brush  the  civpinetu-s  over  with  L' 
place  them  in  the  cases,  and  serve.     The  crepine-  ^ed, 

breadcrumb. <1.  fiied.  and  served  on  a  bed  of  spinach  (see  Boudin- 
of  Veal,  p.  435)- 

Time.— 20  to  25  minutes,  after  the  -pina.  h  is  o.okrd.     Average  Cost, 
is.,  exclusive  of  the  meat.     Sufficient  for  fi  or  7  i  ivpiiu  ; 

724. -CROQUETTES   OF  VEAL.        (Fr.  —  Croquettes 
de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. —  i  lb.  of  cold  veal,  i  oz.  oi  butter  or  dripping,  $  an  or. 
iour,  |  of  a  pint  of  stock,  the  rind  of  |  a  lemon  grated,  i  teaspo< 
mly-chopped  parsley,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs, 
ir\  ad  pepper. 

Method.— Chop  th  :iely.  and   ln.il   th< 

for   the  Stock.       Mi-It    th.  Utter    in  ;i,   add    the   t! 

pour  in  the  stock,  and  stir  until  it  Imils    tin-  intended  to  bind 

..menu  m  an  e-^  i  ad),  boil 

the  or    ^    minutes,    then   add    the   i:  .nd, 

nut:  i  MIII 

on  to  a  plate,  when    eo«.l    fi.rm    into   cork  |]  brush    «• 

wit!.  egg,   coat    well   with   breadmn-  :    fry   until    ni- 

browned  in  h(< 

Time.     From  ij  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost, 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  per> 

idecroqii' 

t    in>i«l«-.  l.ut  tlu-  iiuxturr  inn   I 
niih-ss  the  liquid   i^'-d   in   its  J>K-J  nt.nn>    t! 

'   wlu-ii  it  ;  tiriiiMi-ss  it  is  inon! 

i   tlutu-ulty.      All  th.  niid 

..Id   t«>   tin-  niixtui-f  a  COI 
form  .1  jrlly  \vi  .,-  liquid. 

-n  bismotber.lt 

called  a  bull,  or  ox -calf  ;  when  one  year  old  be  is  termed  a  stirk.  stot,  or  yearling.     On  the  romp 
second  year  be  u  known  as  a  two-year-old  bull  or  steer— in  some  counties  a  stfater— a 

»x  "  is  used  as  a  gn 

• 

• 
TV  ,,|.|  .1  thrrr-year-old  •!'  '         '     . 

Q 


450  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

725.— CROUSTADES   OF  CALF'S   BRAINS. 

(Fr. — Croustades  aux  Cervelles.) 

Ingredients. —  i  set  calf's  brains,  a  little  cooked  tongue,  \  a  pint  of 
good  white  sauce  (see  Sauces),  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  the  yolk  of 
i  egg,  a  good  pinch  of  mace,  a  few  drops  of  lemon- juice,  vinegar, 
salt  and  pepper,  i  small  onion,  short  crust  paste. 

Method. — Line  some  small,  deep,  oval  or  round  moulds,  thinly  with 
paste,  (dariol  moulds  may  be  made  to  serve),  prick  the  bottoms  to  pre- 
vent them  blistering,  line  them  with  buttered  paper,  and  fill  with  rice. 
Bake  in  a  moderately-hot  oven,  then  remove  the  paper  and  rice,  take 
the  cases  out  of  the  moulds,  and  return  them  to  the  oven  until  they 
become  crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Wash  the  brains  well  in  salt  and 
water,  and  boil  them  until  firm  in  water,  to  which  must  be  added  i 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  i  small  onion 
(sliced).  Drain  well,  and  cut  into  small  dice,  also  cut  the  tongue  into 
dice.  Have  ready  the  white  sauce,  add  to  it  the  dice  of  tongue  and 
brains,  cream,  lemon-juice,  mace,  seasoning,  yolk  of  egg,  and  stir  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  is  thoroughly  hot  and  the  egg  cooked. 
Fill  the  pastry  cases  with  the  mixture,  sprinkle  on  the  top  of  each  a 
little  finely-chopped  truffle  or  a  few  panurette  breadcrumbs,  and  serve 
either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  paste  and 
brains.  Sufficient,  allow  8  croustades  for  6  persons. 

726.— CURRY  OF  VEAL.     (Fr.— Kari  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  neck,  breast  or  fillet  of  veal,  i  pint  of  stock 
or  water,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of 
curry-powder,  i  teaspoonful  of  curry-paste,  i  sour  apple,  2  small 
onions  coarsely-chopped,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt,  4  ozs.  of 
rice. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  about  i£  inches  square,  and  fry 
them  in  the  hot  butter  until  lightly  browned.  Lift  the  pieces  of 
meat  on  to  a  plate,  sprinkle  in  the  flour  and  curry-powder,  add  the 
onion,  and  fry  gently  for  10  minutes.  Add  the  stock,  curry-paste, 
sliced  apple,  salt  to  taste,  boil,  replace  the  meat,  and  cook  gently 
from  2  to  2^  hours.  Boil  the  rice,  drain,  and  dry  well.  When  the 
meat  is  tender  remove  it  to  a  hot  dish,  season  the  sauce  to  taste,  add 
the  lemon- juice  and  strain  over  the  meat.  The  rice  should  be 
served  separately. 

Time. — From  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  2s.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING  VEAL  451 

727.— CUTLETS  BROILED   WITH   ITALIAN   SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Veau  a     1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. —  i£  Ib.  of  fillet  or  neck  of  veal,  £  a  pint  of  Italian  sauce, 
No.  252,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  clarified  butter. 

Method. — Divide  the  meat  into  thin  slices,  which  afterwards  trim  into 
neat  cutlets.  Dip  them  in  egg  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  coat 
with  breadcrumbs,  and  afterwards  with  clarified  butter.  Broil  the 
cutlets  over  a  clear  fire,  brushing  them  over  occasionally  with  clarified 
butter,  to  prevent  the  breadcrumbs  burning.  Arrange  neatly  on  a  hot 
dish,  pour  the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Time.  To  broil,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  neck  of  veal, 
rod.  to  is.;  fillet,  is.  to  is.  2d. 

728.— VEAL  COLLOPS.     (Fr.— Paupiettes   de    VeaiO 

Ingredients. — 1$  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  a  ic\\  :  bacon,  force  i 

<>6,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  fat  for  frying,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of 
flour,  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  lemon-ji 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  very  thin  strips  3  inches  long  and  2  inches 
cover  with  thin  pieces  of  bacon  the  same  size,  season  well  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  spread  lightly  with  forcemeat.     Roll  up  lightly. 
coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  gently  in  h< 
turning  frequently  so  as  to  brown  the  entire  surface.     Remove  and 
:ot,  drain  aw.,  that  remains,  but  preserve  the  sediment. 

Put  in  the  butter,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  hot  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  and  cook 
gently  until  lightly  browned.     Add  $  of  a  pint  of  b<  tor,   i 

poonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of  ground  mace,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  for  5  minutes.     Arrange  the  collops 
hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  round,  then  s* : 

Time. — To  fry  the  collops,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to 
is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

729.  -FILLETS  OF  VEAL.      (Fr.-Filets  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 1$  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  a  few  slices  of  bacon,  2  ozs.  of 
IMIIHT,  i  egg,  hrraiKniii'.Ks,  the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  i  teaspoonful 
<>f  leu  •  -ixx>nful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  ^  of  . 

spoonful  of  thyme.   \  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  bro\ 

'•clients  :  $  a  pint  of  white  stock,  $  an  oz. 
cream,  |  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- ju; 
small  piece  of  meat  glaze,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  -out  £  an  inch  in  thickness,  and 

rounds  2^  or  .  in  diameter.     Ikat  the  egu 

to  it  the  parslrv.  \\  •  •  <n  riml,  lemon-juice,  dip  each  fillet  in  the 


452  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

mixture,  coat  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  butter,  in  a  saute-pan. 
When  nicely  browned  on  both  sides  take  them  out  of  the  pan,  and  keep 
them  hot.  Add  the  flour  to  the  butter  in  the  pan,  fry  lightly,  pour 
in  the  stock,  stir  till  it  boils,  then  add  the  lemon-juice,  cream  and  glaze, 
season  to  taste,  and  simmer  for  2  or  3  minutes.  The  fillets  may  be 
dished  in  a  circle  on  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  with  the  rolls  of  bacon 
piled  in  the  centre,  or  in  two  rows  alternately  with  fried,  thin,  stamped- 
out  rounds  of  bacon  of  equal  size.  The  sauce  should  be  strained  and 
poured  round  the  dish. 

Time.  About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
7  to  9  persons. 

THE  GOLDEN  CALF. — In  the  Book  of  Genesis  we  are  told  that  Aaron,  constrained  by  the  impatient 
Israelites  during  the  lengthened  absence  of  Moses  in  the  Mount,  made  a  golden  calf  from  the  golden 
earrings  presented  by  the  people,  to  represent  the  Elohim  which  brought  the  Children  of  Israel  out 
of  the  land  of  Egypt.  The  "  Golden  Calf  "  was  probably  a  wooden  figure  of  a  calf  overlaid  with  plates 
of  gold,  fashioned  in  a  similar  manner  to  the  gilded  ox  covered  with  a  pall,  which  the  Egyptian  re- 
garded as  the  symbol  of  Osiris,  one  of  the  great  Egyptian  divinities,  and  the  king  of  the  gods  and  J  udge 
of  the  Dead.  The  offerings,  dancing,  and  rejoicings  which  the  Israelites  practised  were  probably 
identical  with  the  ceremony  with  which  Mnevis,  one  of  the  three  kinds  of  sacred  bulls,  was  wor- 
shipped in  Egypt :  hence  the  punishment  inflicted  upon  the  people  by  Moses. 

730.— FILLETS    OF    VEAL,    TALLEYRAND    STYLE. 
(Fr.—  Filets  de  Veau  a  la  Talleyrand.) 

Ingredients. — I  Ib.  of  fillet  or  cushion  of  veal,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  2  shal- 
lots finely-chopped,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  6  pre- 
served mushrooms,  the  juice  of  ^  a  lemon,  |-  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce, 
the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  6  or  7  pieces  of  equal  size  and  thickness, 
flatten  slightly  with  a  cutlet-bat,  and  trim  into  a  round  or  oval  form. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  saute  or  frying-pan,  put  in  the  cutlets,  and  cook  them 
thoroughly,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  acquire  much  colour.  Have  the 
white  sauce  nearly  boiling  in  a  small  stewpan,  put  in  the  fillets,  cover, 
and  draw  to  the  side  of  the  stove.  Cut  the  mushrooms  into  small 
pieces,  add  them,  together  with  the  shallots,  to  the  butter  in  the  saute- 
pan,  fry  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then  turn  the  contents 
of  the  saute-pan  into  the  stewpan,  simmer  very  gently  until  the  fillets 
are  tender,  then  cool  slightly.  Add  the  lemon-juice,  parsley,  yolks  of 
eggs,  season  to  taste,  and  stir  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  sauce 
thickens,  but  it  must  not  boil,  or  the  eggs  may  curdle.  Dish  the  fillets 
in  a  single  row  on  a  foundation  of  mashed  potato,  which  helps  to  keep 
them  in  position,  pour  the  sauce  over  them  carefully,  in  order  that 
every  part  may  be  equally  coated,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  2s.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

731.— FRICASSEE  OF  CALF'S  FEET.        (Fr.— Pieds 
de  Veau  en  Fricassee.) 

Ingredients. — 4  cooked  calves'  feet  (those  which  have  been  boiled 
down  for  jelly  may  be  used),  i  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces),  i  tea- 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKINi;    YFAL  453 

spoonful  of   finely-chopped   parsley,    I    teaspoonful   of  lemon-ji: 
table>poonfuls  of  small  dice  of  cooked  ham  or  bacon,  salt  and  pepper, 
nuti: 

Method. — Remove  all  the  bones,  and  cut  the  meat  into  pieces  of  equal 
size.     Make  the  white  sauce  as  directed,  add  to  it  the  ham  or  1 
the  pieces  of  calves'  feet,  and  let  the  stewpan  stand  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  until   the  contents  are  thoroughly  hot;    then  put  in  the  parsley 
and  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.      Average   Cost,    is.    to    is.  6d.      Sufficient 
to  8  persons. 

732.— FILLET   OF   VEAL   STEWED.      (Fr.— Filet    de 
veau  etuve.) 

Ingredients. — 3    Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  forcemeat,    No.    396,    i£    ozs. 
of  bur  >.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  drip]'  ^h  mushrooms 

obtainablr.   lemon  -juice,   mace,  salt   and  pepper,   i  pint  of  stock  or 

!>les  if  nccess. 

Method. — Flatten    the   meat    well   with   a  cutlet-bat   or  rollin: 
!    on    the   tnrccnu-.it,   roll   up  and    tie  securely  with   tape. 

the  meat  until  the  entire  surface  is 

I,  thm  dram  off  the  fat.     Add  the  mushrooms,  stock  or 

if    lining  the    latter    add  a  little  sliced  onion,  carrot  and 

turnip,  ami  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.     Cover  «  mum T 

for  2  hours,  taking  (  an    th.it  the  stock  ;ust  at 

sinun  .while  melt   thr  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 

flour,   stir   and  ntly    until   nicely   browned,   and    \\ ! 

add  t!  '1  liquor  in  which  :   until 

boiling,  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  then  add  the  lemon 

season  to  taste.     Serve  the  meat  on  a  hot  disli  with  a  little  sauce  poured 

and  the  remainder  in  a  tureen. 

Time.     About  2\  hours.     Average  Cost,    4*.      Sufficient   for   10  or  12 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

733.  -FRICANDEAU  OF  VEAL  WITH  SORREL. 

(Fr.— Fricandeau  de  Veau  a  1'Oseille.) 

Ingredients.— 3   Ib.  of  tdlct  of  veal,  larding  1  ozs.  of  butter, 

r  om.  i  turnip,  j  MI  ips  <•  .  bouquet-garni  (p.r 

es,  2  blades  of  mace,  6  peppercorns,  \  a  pint 
,  i^  Ib.  of  son 

Method.  —Lard  the  veal  in  close  rows.     Tut  the  vegetables  and  the 
;   into  a  stewpan.  lay  the  meat  on  the  top,  cover,  and  fry  ; 

us,  and  s,i  b  a  greased  pa;  >n  the  lid,  and 


454  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

braise  for  3  hours,  adding  more  stock  as  that  in  the  stewpan  reduces. 
When  done,  put  in  the  oven  on  a  baking-sheet  for  a  few  minutes,  to 
crisp  the  bacon,  brush  over  with  glaze,  and  place  on  a  hot  dish.  Add 
a  little  glaze  to  the  liquor  in  the  stewpan,  skim,  strain,  season  to  taste, 
and  serve  in  a  sauce-boat,  garnish  the  dish  with  the  sorrel  puree,  and 
serve.  Spinach  may  be  used  instead  of  sorrel. 

Time. — 3^  to  3!  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  53.  Sufficient  for  8  or 
9  persons. 

734.— FRICASSEE  OF  CALF'S  HEAD.     (Fr.—  Tete  de 
Veau  en  Fricassee.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  calf's  head,  i  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  head 
was  boiled,  i£  ozs.  of  butter  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream, 
the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  a  good  pinch  of  mace,  salt  and 
pepper,  rolls  of  fried  bacon,  forcemeat  balls  (see  Forcemeats). 

Method. — Prepare  and  boil  the  calf's  head  as  directed  in  the  recipe 
for  "  Calf's  Head  Collared  "  (the  remains  of  a  calf's  head  may  be  used), 
remove  the  bones,  and  cut  the  meat  into  pieces  i£  inches  square.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  flour  for  a  few  minutes  without  brown- 
ing, then  add  the  stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  simmer  gently  for  10 
minutes.  Add  the  mace,  seasoning  to  taste,  put  in  the  pieces  of  meat, 
cover  closely,  and  draw  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  stove  for  about 
20  minutes.  Shape  the  forcemeat  into  small  balls,  and  either  fry  or 
bake  them  until  nicely  browned.  Place  the  rolls  of  bacon  on  a  skewer 
and  fry  or  bake  them  until  crisp.  Remove  the  pieces  of  meat  from 
the  sauce,  and  arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish  in  a  pile.  Have  ready  the 
cream  and  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  lightly  together,  add  these  to  the  sauce, 
and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken,  but  the  sauce  must 
on  no  account  be  allowed  to  boil.  Add  the  lemon- juice,  season  to  taste, 
and  strain  over  the  meat.  Garnish  with  the  forcemeat  balls  and  rolls 
of  bacon,  and  serve. 

Time. — After  the  calf's  head  is  boiled,  nearly  i  hour.  Average  Cost, 
43.  to  55.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

735.— GALANTINE  OF  VEAL.        (Fr.— Galantine  de 
Veau.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  breast  of  veal,  \\  or  2  Ib.  of  sausage  meat,  2 
or  3  rashers  of  bacon  (ham  or  tongue  may  be  substituted),  i  hard- 
boiled  egg,  glaze  (see  p.  137),  salt,  pepper,  a  grate  of  nutmeg, 
ground  mace,  ground  cloves. 

Method. — Bone  the  veal,  and  flatten  it  out  on  the  table.  Season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper,  spread  on  £  the  sausage  meat  in  an  even 
layer,  distribute  narrow  strips  of  bacon  and  slices  of  egg  over  the  sur- 
face, add  mace,  nutmeg,  and  cloves  in  very  small  quantities,  and  a  liberal 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  455 

seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  sau- 
sage meat.  Roll  the  meat  up  tightly,  wrap  it  in  a  pudding  cloth, 
secure  the  ends  with  string,  put  the  roll  into  boiling  stock,  or  into  boiling 
water,  to  which  has  been  added  the  veal  bones,  i  or  2  onions,  i  or  2 
small  carrots,  i  turnip,  celery,  salt  and  peppercorns,  and  cook  gently 
for  3  or  3^  hours.  When  cooked  and  nearly  cold  take  off  the  cloth, 
which  always  becomes  loose,  re-roll,  tie  tightly  as  before,  and  press 
the  galantine  between  two  boards  or  dishes  until  cold.  Before  serving 
brush  over  with  glaze,  and  garnish  with  parsley,  and,  if  liked,  some 
fancifully-shaped,  or  coarsely-chopped  aspic  jelly. 

Time.— From   3   to   3^  hours,   to  boil   the  galantine.     Average  Cost, 

IS.     ]KT     11). 

\\Mhv  CALVES  SHOULD  BE  KILLED.— A  calf  should  not  be  killed  under  4  weeks;  the  flesh  prior 
•ime  lacks  firmness,  due  development  of  muscular  fibre,  and  is  deficient  in  the  animal  juices 
on  which  the  flavour  and  nutritive  properties  of  the  flesh  depend.     The  calf  is  considered  to  be  in 
prime  condition  at  10  weeks,  and  should  then  weigh  from  16  to  18  stone. 

736.— GATEAU  OF  COLD  VEAL.       (Fr.— Gateau   de 
Veau.) 

Ingredients. — J  Ib.  of  cold  veal  (or  veal  and  ham  mixed),  2  tablespoon- 

fuls  of  white  breadcrumbs,   i   teaspoonful  of    finely-chopped    parsley 

£  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-rind,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  i  egg,  i  or  2 

poonfuls  of  gravy  or  mi.  browned  breadcrumbs,  $  pint  of 

Method.  -Grease  a  round  mould  or  cake  tin,  and  well  cover  it  with 
browned  breadcrumbs.  Put  the  bones  and  browned  trimmingsof  th- 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  gently  until  the 

is  required,  then  did  season  to  taste.     Chop  the 

iinely,  add  to  it  the  white  breadcrumbs,  parsley,  lemon-rind,  nutmeg, 
the  egg  beaten,  and  as  much  gravy  or  milk  as  will  thoroughly  moisten 
-hole.  Season  rather  highly  with  salt  and  pepper,  press  the 
mixture  tightly  into  the  cake  tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
40  or  45  minutes.  Turn  out,  pour  a  little  gravy  round,  and  ser\ 

mder  separately. 

Time. — About    i£  hours,  altogether.     Average  Cost,  3d.  or  41! 
ive  of  the  meat.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

737.— GRENADINES  OF  VEAL.     (Fr.—  Grenadins    de 
Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 1$  Ib.  of  fillet  of  \  \v  strips  of  larding  bacon,  i 

pint  of  good  stock,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion,  i  carrot, 

i  nip,  2  strips  of  celery,  6  peppercorns,  i  clove,  a  bouquet-garni 

v-leaf),  meat  glaze,  salt,  pepper. 

Method.  •»  slices  about  |  an  inch  in  thickness,  and 

iut<>  rounds  from  2  to  2$  inches  id  the 


456         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

grenadines  on  one  side  with  strips  of  bacon  i£  inches  long,  and  about 
£  of  an  inch  wide.  Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  bouquet- 
garni,  peppercorns,  clove,  and  the  vegetables  sliced,  lay  the  grenadines 
on  the  top  of  them,  cover  closely,  and  fry  gently  for  10  minutes.  Then 
add  as  much  stock  as  will  nearly  cover  the  vegetables,  and  the  re- 
mainder by  degrees,  to  replace  that  which  boils  away.  Cover  the  grena- 
dines with  a  buttered  paper,  cover  closely,  and  braise  for  i  hour.  When 
tender,  remove  the  grenadines  from  the  stewpan,  put  them  in  a  hot 
oven  for  a  few  minutes,  to  brown  and  crisp  the  bacon,  and  brush  over 
with  meat  glaze.  Have  ready  the  brown  roux,  or  thickening,  made  by 
frying  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter  and  the  flour  together  until  brown, 
strain  the  liquor  from  the  stewpan  on  to  it,  boil  and  stir  until  smooth, 
simmer  a  few  minutes,  then  season  to  taste,  and  use.  Dish  the  grena- 
dines in  a  circle  on  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  fill  the  centre  with  peas, 
asparagus  points,  or  any  suitable  vegetable,  pour  the  sauce  round,  and 
serve. 

Time. — About  i^  hours.  Average  Cost,  25.  3d.  to  25.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons. 

738.-GRENADINES  OF    VEAL.     (Fr.-Grenadins   de 
Veau  a  la  Marchand  de  vin.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  a  few  strips  of  larding  bacon, 
3  or  4  slices  of  lean  bacon,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  2  finely-chopped  shallots,  %  a  gill  of  tomato  sauce, 
\  a  gill  of  brown  sauce,  |  a  glass  of  claret,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  and  lard  the  grenadines  as  directed  in  the  previous 
recipe.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  fry  the  shallots  in 
butter  without  browning  them,  pour  off  the  butter  into  a  saute-or 
frying-pan,  add  the  claret  to  the  shallots,  and  boil  until  well  reduced. 
Add  the  tomato  and  brown  sauces,  parsley,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  boil  rapidly  until  considerably  reduced.  Re-heat  the 
butter  in  the  saute-pan,  and  fry  the  grenadines  until  lightly  browned 
on  both  sides,  then  pour  off  the  butter,  add  the  reduced  sauce,  cover 
the  saute-pan  with  a  lid,  and  cook  gently  for  about  15  minutes.  Take 
up  the  grenadines,  arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  border  of  mashed 
potato,  fill  the  centre  with  strips  of  lean  bacon,  previously  fried  in  the 
butter,  strain  the  sauce  over  the  grenadines,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  35.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

739.— HARICOT  OF  VEAL.     (Fr.— Haricot  de   Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  neck  of  veal,  i£  ozs.  of  butter  or  dripping, 
i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i£  pints  of  white  stock  or  water,  i  onion,  i  carrot, 
i  turnip,  salt  and  pepper. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  457 

Method. — Divide  the  meat  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  cut 
the  vc-etabks  into  small  dice,  which  put  aside,  and  preserve  the 
trimmings.  Heat  the  butter  or  fat  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  meat  lightly 
on  both  sides,  then  remove  to  a  plate.  Sprinkle  in  the  Hour,  iry  slowly 
until  well-browned,  then  add  the  stock  or  water,  and  stir  until  b 

.  cidd  the  vegetable  trimmings,  put  in  I 

.  .      Sunnier  very  gently  lor  j  hours,  then  remove  to  a  hot 
strain  the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  with  the  dice  »  lously 

boiled  se;  -.intil  ten- 

Time,  j}  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  iod.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 
Seasonable  at  anv  time. 


740.  — KNUCKLE  OF  VEAL,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — A  knuckl 

OF  bacon  to  boil,  or  .1  •  :  nil  and  fry.  ;  tablcspoonfuls  of  rice, 

I  onion,  I  small  carrot,  £  a  small  turnip,   i  strip  of  i  t-oiKjuet- 

;n     parsley,   thyme,  bay  leaf  .  salt   and   pepper,  parsley  sauce  (see 
es). 

Method. — Separate  the  shank  bone,  put  it  with  the  meat  into  a  sauce- 
i  containing  sulhcient  boiling  \\ater  to  cover,  bring  to  the  boil, 
n  well,  add  the  vegetables  (cut  into  dice),  the  herbs 

ham  or  bacon  should  be  boiU-d  mst 

'  be  gently  simmered  for  a!  rice 

should  be  well  :ul   added    to   tin    contents  of  the  s. 

move  the  meat  from  the  broth,  and  keep  it  hot.      Take  out  tl 

ni, season  the  broth  to  taste,  and  serve  sep.t 

a   1  -lor   in   a 

tureen.      Send  the  ham  or  taOG  bhi 

Time.     About     3  hours.     Average  Cost,  53.  od.  to  '•>.      Sufficient 

6  01  'US. 

741. -LITTLE  TIMBALES  OF  VEAL  WITH  MUSH- 
ROOMS. -Petites  Timbales  de  Veau 
aux  Champignons.) 

Ingredients. — 6  oz^.  uncooked  veal,  2  ozs.  of  uncooked 

or  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sa  l>le- 

•>,  salt   aiv  l-or  the  pan.ula:    j 

pn  \  an  oz.  of  butter.     For  t!  <>om 

puree-  :   \  ,i  .  '»oms,   I  oz.  of  butter,   I    tablespoonful  of 

•onful  of  ;lt  and  p. 

Method.      Melt   thfl  ]   <•/.  of  butter  in  and, 

when  1  t  ozs.  of  11  inlil  the 


458  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

panada,  or  paste,  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan  clean,  spread  it  on 
a  plate,  and  put  it  aside  to  cool.  Remove  the  stalks  of  the 
mushrooms,  skin  and  chop  them  coarsely  ;  melt  i  oz.  of  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  mushrooms,  cover,  and  let  them 
steam  in  the  butter  for  10  minutes,  then  add  the  breadcrumbs,  cream, 
seasoning  to  taste,  and  let  the  mixture  cool.  Pass  the  meat  2  or  3  times 
through  the  mincing  machine,  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar  with  the 
panada,  adding  i  oz.  of  butter,  the  cold  white  sauce,  the  remaining  cream 
gradually,  and  the  eggs  one  at  a  time.  When  quite  smooth,  season  to 
taste,  and  rub  through  a  fine  wire  sieve.  Butter  10  or  12  large-sized 
timbale-moulds,  line  them  with  the  meat  farce,  "or  stuffing,  make  a 
well  in  the  centre  of  each  with  the  handle  of  a  teaspoon,  dipped  in  hot 
water  to  prevent  the  farce  adhering  to  it,  and  fill  with  the  mushroom 
puree.  Cover  the  top  of  each  timbale  with  a  thin  layer  of  farce,  place 
them  in  a  saute-pan,  surround  them  with  boiling  water  to  half  the  depth 
of  the  moulds,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  cook  for  about  25  minutes 
or  until  the  farce  is  firm.  Turn  out,  mask  with  a  good  white  sauce, 
and  serve. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  10  to  12  timbales. 

Note. — If  preferred,  the  mixture  may  be  cooked  in  one  large  mould.  Cooked 
veal  and  ham  may  be  used  instead  of  the  raw  meat  ;  in  that  case  the  cream 
should  be  omitted  from  the  farce,  and  4  ozs.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  and  £  a 
pint  of  water  used  for  the  panada,  instead  of  the  quantities  given  above. 

742.— LOIN   OF  VEAL,  DAUBE  STYLE.     (Fr.—  Carre 
de  Veau  a  la  Daube.) 

Ingredients. — The  chump  end  of  a  loin  of  veal,  forcemeat,  No.  396, 
a  few  slices  of  bacon,  i  small  onion  sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  blade  of  mace,  10  peppercorns,  i  pint  of  veal  stock 
or  water,  £  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  No.  389,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones,  fill  the  cavity  with  forcemeat,  and  bind 
or  skewer  into  a  good  shape.  Boil  the  stock  or  water  in  a  large  stew- 
pan, put  in  the  meat,  cover  with  slices  of  bacon,  and  add  the  onion, 
mace,  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt.  Simmer 
gently  for  2$  hours,  basting  frequently,  but  do  not  add  more  stock 
or  water  until  absolutely  necessary  to  prevent  the  meat  from  burning. 
When  ready,  strain  the  liquor  into  a  small  stewpan,  boil  rapidly  until 
reduced  to  a  glaze,  with  which  coat  the  meat  thickly.  Serve  the 
tomato  sauce  separately. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

743.— LOIN    OF    VEAL,     BAKED    OR    ROASTED. 

(Fr.— Longe  de  Veau  Farcie.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  Ib.  of  loin  of  veal,  a  few  slices  of  bacon,  veal  force- 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  459 

meat  (see  p.  281),  £  of  a  pint  of   brown    sauce,  a   little  meat  glaze, 
lemons. 

Method. — Bone  the  veal,  season  the  inside  with  salt  and  pepper,  fill 
with  forcemeat,  and  skewer  or  tie  it  in  the  form  of  a  roll.  Baste  well 
with  hot  dripping,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  either  bake  or  roast 
from  2  to  2±  hours,  basting  frequently.  Meanwhile  boil  the  bones 
for  stock  for  the  brown  sauce  (see  p.  233).  Half  an  hour  before  serv- 
ing remove  the  paper  from  the  meat  and  brush  it  lightly  over  with  the 
glaze,  drain  away  all  the  fat  in  the  tin,  but  leave  the  brown  sediment. 
Pour  the  brown  sauce  into  the  tin,  return  to  the  oven  to  finish  cooking, 
and  baste  frequently.  (When  economy  is  not  an  object,  the  veal 
should  be  basted  with  cream  instead  of  brown  sauce,  the  cream  being 
afterwards  slightly  thickened,  seasoned,  and  served  with  the  meat). 
Roll  the  bacon,  put  on  a  skewer,  and  fry  or  bake  until  crisp,  or  it  may  be 
broiled  before  the  fire,  and  cut  into  dice.  Remove  the  meat  to  a  hot  i! 
garnish  with  rolls  of  bacon  and  cut  lemon,  or  little  piles  of  bacon  dice 
and  lemon.  Strain  the  sauce,  and  serve  it  separately  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — To  cook  the  veal,  2  to  2$  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  ud. 
per  Ib. 

Note. — The  above  recipe  is  equally  applicable  to  a  shoulder  and  fillet  of 
veal ;  and  a  loin  of  veal  is  not  necessarily  boned  ;  a  little  forcemeat  may  be 
rted.  and  the  remainder  made  into  small  balls.     The  bone  of  the  fillet 
trly  always  removed,  and  the  cavity  filled  with  forcemeat. 

744.— LIVER    SAUSAGES.      (Fr.— Sausisson   de  Foie 
de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  calf's  liver,  $  of  a  Ib.  of  fat  bacon,  $  a  Ib.  of  bread- 
crumbs, i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  ^  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  thyme,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  £  of  a 
poonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  3  eggs,  skins. 

Method. — Chop  the  liver  and  bacon  very  finely,  mix  them  together, 
and  add  the  breadcrumbs  and  the  rest  of  the  dry  ingredients.  ^ 
in  the  eggs,  and  press  the  mixture  into  the  skins,  leaving  room  for  the 
'!.  tti  t  them  aside  for  5  or  6  hours,  then  prick  well,  fry 
in  hot  fat  until  well-browned,  and  serve  either  on  toast  or  with 
mashed  potato. 

Time.— Altogether,  6  or  7   hours.     Average  Cost,    is,   8d.     Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.       Seasonable  at  any  time. 

745.— LIVER  SAUSAGES.        (Another  Method). 

Ingredients.     2    Ib.  of  calfs'    liver,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  pickled   pork  or  fat 
-cry  finely-chopped,  |  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
sage,  salt  and  pepper,  sausage  si 


460  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Wash  and  diy  the  liver,  chop  it  finely,  and  pass  it  through 
a  wire  sieve.  Chop  the  pork  or  bacon  finely,  mix  it  with  the  liver,  add 
the  onion,  sage,  and  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  well 
together,  three-quarters  fill  the  skins  with  the  preparation,  place  in 
boiling  water,  and  simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour.  The  sausages  may 
be  used  fresh,  but  if  preferred  smoked,  they  should  be  hung  for  2  or  3 
days  in  the  smoke  of  a  peat  or  wood  fire.  The  sausages  may  be  eaten 
without  further  cooking,  or,  if  preferred,  they  may  be  fried  and  served 
hot. 

Time. — To  boil,  ^  an  hour;  to  smoke,  2  or  3  days.  Average  Cost, 
2s.  3d.  to  2S.  6d.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

746. -MINCED  VEAL.      (Fr.— Hachis  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — i|-  Ib.  of  cold  veal,  i  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces), 
forcemeat  balls,  the  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  all  skin  and  gristle,  cut  the  meat  into  very  small 
pieces,  but  do  not  chop  it.  Make  the  white  sauce  as  directed,  add  to  it 
the  lemon-rind  and  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  put  in  the  meat,  cover 
closely,  and  let  it  remain  in  the  sauce  for  \  an  hour  WITHOUT  BOILING. 
Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  garnished  with  the  forcemeat  balls  and  slices  of 
lemon. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  from  i  to  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is. 
pd.  to  2S.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

THE  CALF  A  SYMBOL  OF  DIVINE  POWER. — Among  the  Egyptians  the  ox  was  regarded  a  symbol 
of  the  god  Osiris,  and  was  represented  with  a  disc  symbolical  of  the  sun,  one  of  the  forms  under  which 
Osiris,  the  husband  of  Isis  and  father  of  Horus,  and  the  source  of  all  beneficent  agencies  to  mankind, 
was  represented.  The  sacred  bull  Apis  was  supposed  to  be  animated  with  the  soul  of  Osiris  ;  special 
reverence  being  accorded  to  the  Apis  for  this  reason.  From  the  Egyptians  the  Israelites  adopted 
the  worship  of  the  calf,  which  incurred  the  displeasure  of  Jehovah,  and  drew  down  upon  the  people 
the  stern  denunciations  of  the  prophets.  It  has  been  the  subject  of  considerable  controversy  whether 
the  Jews  intended  the  golden  calf  and  the  calves  of  Jeroboam  as  the  symbol  of  Osiris,  or  as  a  cherubic 
representation  of  the  Elohim,  the  Almighty  Intelligence  which  brought  the  Israelites  out  of  Egypt. 

747.— MINCED  VEAL  WITH  MACARONI. 

(Fr. — Hachis  aux  Macaroni.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  cold  roast  veal  finely-minced,  3  ozs.  of  ham 
finely-minced,  4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  good  gravy,  i  large  or  2  small  eggs,  butter,  nutmeg,  salt  and 
pepper,  gravy. 

Method. — Mix  the  veal,  ham  and  breadcrumbs  together,  add  salt, 
pepper  and  grated  nutmeg  to  taste,  moisten  with  the  gravy,  and 
as  much  beaten  egg  as  is  necessary  to  bind  the  mixture  together. 
Boil  the  macaroni  in  salted  water  until  tender,  but  not  broken,  and 
arrange  it  at  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  well-buttered  mould  or  basin 
in  some  simple  form,  such  as  trellis  or  stripes.  Cut  the  remainder 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  461 

into  short  lengths,  mix  them  with  the  meat  preparation,  and  press  the 
whole  lightly  into  the  mould  or  basin.  Cover  with  a  greased  paper, 
steam  gently  for  i  hour,  then  carefully  unmould  and  serve  good  gravy, 
previously  made  from  veal  bones  and  trimmings,  separately. 

Time. — To   steam,    i    hour.     Average   Cost,   ul.,   in   addition    to   the 
meat      Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

748.-MINCED  VEAL  WITH  POACHED  EGGS. 

(Fr.— Hachis  aux  CEufs  poches.") 

Ingredients.— i  i  Ib.  of  cold  veal,  6  poached  eggs,  i  pint  of  st. 
\\atrr,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i|  ozs.  of  flour,  i  small  onion,  $  a  small  «. 
2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,  the  grated  rind  of  \  a  lemon,  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  tin-  Nmes  and  break  them  into  small  pieces,  trim 
off   the  brown  out  ie  meat,  put   both   bones  and   trimmings 

into  a  stewpan  with  the  onion  and  a  loves,  m;. 

aid  a  little  salt  ami  p<  :  :Iy  for  a1  hours. 

Tut  the  meat  into  \  >cs,and  put  t: 

Melt  the  butter  in   a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  until 

a  nut-brown  colour.     Strain  the  stock  from  the  bones,  add  it 
to  the  bintrr  and  flour,  stir  until  it  boils,  pour  half  of  it  into  another 

Id  the  i  il  to  the  remainder.     Season  to 

put    in    th'  closely,  and  d;  pan  to  the 

side  of  the  stove  for  $  an  hour.     Care  must  be  taken  not  to  let    the 

D  must  be  occasionally  stirred.     Poach 
.nid  trim  thci:  ace  in  the  cei. 

dish,  place  the  jxuihed  eggs  round   the  base,  and  ser. 
of  the  brown  sauce  111  a  tui< 

Time.  —  About    2$   hours,   altogether.     Average   Cost,    is.    to    is.    3d., 
exclusive   of   the   meat.       Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

749.— MIROTON  OF  VEAL.    (Fr.-Miroton  dc  Veau. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  veal,  cut  into  thin  slices,  |  of  a  pint 
k,  £  of  an  or.  of  butter,  j  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  it,  i  nelv- 

v,  i  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon 
i  umbs,  i  small  <>•  1.  salt  and  pc\ 

Method.     Cut  th.-  meat  into  thin  slices,  ft]  the  stock  from  the 

mings  (see  Scotch  Collops,  No.  760  .     M<  it  the  : 

••  onion  1:  dd  the  fiV 

""til  •  Add  the  prepared  stock,  stir  until  boiling,  season 

to  taste,  and  simmer  gently   for    m  minutes.     Co*. 

h  the  inn. -ton  is  •  .  d  with  bio\\ :  n  the 

top  p'  -klinp  on« 

;ig  of  sail'  i   the 


462  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

top  layer  thickly  with  browned  breadcrumbs,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
from  15  to  20  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2d.  or  3d., 
in  addition  to  the  meat.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 

750.-MOULDED    MINCED  VEAL.      (See    Gateau  cf 
Cold  Veal.) 

751.— NECK   OF  VEAL,    BRAISED.      (Fr.— Carre  de 
Veau  braisse.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  i  pint  of  white  stock, 
2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  capers,  2  onions,  2  carrots,  i  very  small  turnip,  2  strips 
of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns, 
2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  glaze. 

Method. — Saw  the  bones  across,  detach  the  short  pieces  of  the  rib 
bones,  and  fold  the  flap  under,  slice  the  vegetables,  put  them  together 
with  the  bouquet-garni,  mace,  cloves,  and  i  oz.  of  butter  into  a  shallow 
stewpan,  nearly  cover  the  vegetables  with  stock,  and  add  the  remainder 
gradually  to  replace  that  which  boils  away.  Place  the  veal  on  the  bed 
of  vegetables,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  put  on  the  lid,  and  cook 
gently  for  3  hours.  Meanwhile  melt  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter  in  a 
small  stewpan,  add  the  flour  and  fry  gently  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown 
colour.  When  the  meat  is  tender,  remove  it  to  a  hot  dish,  and  brush  it 
over  with  glaze.  Strain  the  liquor  in  the  stewpan  on  to  the  butter 
and  flour,  stir  until  smooth,  if  necessary  reduce  with  a  little  stock,  add 
the  capers,  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and  serve  separately  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

752.— NECK    OF  VEAL,  STEWED.     (Fr.— Carre     de 
Veau  etuve.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  neck  of  veal  £  a  pint  of  white  stock,  2  or  3 
rashers  of  bacon,  crisply  fried  and  cut  into  dice,  6  SMALL  tomatoes, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  the  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt 
and  pepper,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  (if  liked),  meat-glaze. 

Method. — Trim  the  meat,  and  when  the  bones  are  long  saw  them 
across  and  detach  the  rib  bones.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry 
the  meat  lightly  on  both  sides,  then  add  the  lemon-rind,  parsley,  and  a 
good  seasoning  of  pepper,  cover  closely,  and  cook  very  gently  for  2  or 
23-  hours.  The  meat  must  be  well  basted,  and  the  stewpan  stand  on  a 
cool  part  of  the  stove  to  avoid  burning  the  butter.  Meanwhile  fry 


KKCIPKS    FOR    COOKINV.    VEAL  463 

or  broil  the  bacon  and  cut  it  into  dice  ;  bake  or  broil  the  tomatoes 
until  tender,  but  not  too  solt.  Remove  the  meat  from  the  stewpan, 
brush  it  lightly  over  with  meat  glaze,  and  keep  it  hot.  Have  ready  the 
flour  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  stock,  and  the  remainder  of  the 
stock  boiling  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  moistened  flour  to  the  stock,  stir 
and  boil  for  5  minutes,  then  strain  and  add  the  butter  in  which  the  meat 
was  cooked,  the  lemon-juice,  and  the  cream.  Season  to  taste,  bring  to 
the  boil,  and  serve  in  a  tureen.  Garnish  the  dish  alternately  with  little 
bunches  of  bacon  and  tomatoes.  When  economy  is  an  object, 
dripping  may  be  substituted  for  the  butter,  and  the  tomatoes  and"- 
meat  glaze  omitted. 

Time. — From  2$  to  2$  hours.     Average  Cost,   2s.  6d.     Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons, 

753     POTTED    HEAD.     (See  Collared  Head.) 
754.— POTTED  VEAL. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  veal  finely-chopped,  $  of  a  Ib.  of  ham  tmely- 
chopped,  butter,  mace,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  -Place  both  veal  and  ham  in  a  buttered  jar,  ad<: 

tuls   of  cold  water,  and  tie  a  buttered  paper  over    the  mouth, 
t  he  jar  in  a  saucepan  or  tin  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  for  3 
hours  either  on  the  stove  or  in  a  moderately-cool  oven.    Pound  the 
finely  in  a  mortar,  adding  gradually  the  liquor  in  the  jar,  and  as  much 

o  reduce  the  whole  to  a  perfectly  smooth 

paste.     Season  liberally  with  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper,  add  mace  to 
and  pas  rparation  through  a  K  rcss  into  small 

pots.  <1  butter,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — To  cook,  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  od.     Seasonable 

755.— PRESSED  VEAL.     (Fr.-Galantine  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients.     A  breast  «>t  veal,   i   large  onion  sliced,   I  carrot  sliced, 
•-1,  2  or  3  strips  of  celery  sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (^parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),   10  peppercorns,  salt. 

Method.— Remove  all  bones  and  tendons,  trim  neatly,  season  : 

ally,  roll  up  lightly,  ami  bind  s«-  :th  tape.     Put  the  bones  and 

into  a  stewpan  just  large  enough  to  contain  the  meat,  add 

the   prepared    vegetables,    bouquet-garni,    peppercorns,    and    a   good 

seasoning  of  salt.     Place  the  meat  on  the  top,  add  stock  or  water  to  the 

but  not  enough  to  touch  the  meat;  cove; 
ised  papt  t;  lid.     Cook  very  gently  for 

.<%  meat  l>< 
<1  let  it  1  .mil  cold.     Strain  the  stock,  and 


464  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

on  the  following  day  boil  it  rapidly  until  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Trim 
the  meat  to  a  good  shape,  brush  it  over  with  glaze,  and  serve  as  a 
luncheon  or  breakfast  dish. 

Time. — To  cook,  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.  to  lod.  per  Ib. 

756.— QUENELLES  VEAL   (COLD).    (Fr.—  Chaudfroid 
Quenelles  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  £  of  a 
pint  of  stock,  2  eggs,  Senn's  aromatic  seasoning,  pepper  and  salt,  J  pint 
white  sauce,  aspic  jelly,  4  sheets  French  leaf  gelatine. 

Method. — Blend  the  butter  and  flour  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  stock, 
cook  until  the  mixture  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan,  and  adheres 
together  in  a  smooth  panada,  then  put  aside  to  cool.  Mince  the  meat, 
and  pound  it  with  the  eggs,  a  pinch  of  aromatic  seasoning,  pepper  and 
salt,  and  the  panada.  Rub  the  mixture  through  a  wire  sieve.  Shape 
the  quenelles  in  a  dessertspoon,  poach  until  firm,  and  lay  them  on  a 
sieve  to  get  cold. 

Add  the  French  leaf  gelatine  and  a  tablespoonful  of  aspic  jelly  to 
the  sauce,  and  when  beginning  to  set  coat  the  quenelles  with  the 
preparation.  The  quenelles  may  be  decorated  tastefully  with  sprigs  of 
chervil,  fancifully-cut  chilies,  or  truffles.  Serve  on  a  border  of  aspic, 
with  a  nicely-seasoned  salad  of  green  peas  in  the  centre. 

Time.  —  About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  10 
quenelles. 

757.  —QUENELLES  OF  VEAL.        (Fr.— Quenelles  de 
Veau.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  £  of  a  pint  of  good  stock,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  flour  and  the  stock, 
stir  and  cook  until  the  mixture  forms  a  compact  mass  round  the  bowl 
of  the  spoon,  then  put  it  aside  to  cool.  Pass  the  veal  2  or  3  times 
through  a  mincing  machine,  or  chop  it  finely.  Pound  the  panada 
(flour,  butter  and  stock),  and  the  meat  together  until  smooth.  Add  the 
eggs  one  at  a  time,  season  to  taste,  and  pound  all  well  together.  Rub 
the  mixture  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  then  shape  into  quenelles.  To 
do  this  it  is  necessary  to  use  2  dessertspoonfuls,  or  smaller  spoons  if 
making  quenelles  for  soup.  Dip  one  spoon  into  boiling  water,  fill  it 
with  the  mixture,  press  it  from  the  sides  and  raise  it  in  the  centre  \\\\h 
a  knife  dipped  in  hot  water,  making  it  a  nice  oval  shape  ;  take  another 
spoon,  dip  it  into  hot  water,  scoop  the  mixture  carefully  from  the  first 
spoon  into  the  second,  and  place  in  a  buttered  saute-pan.  When  all  the 
quenelles  are  in  the  pan,  pour  in  sufficient  boiling  water  to  nearly 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  465 

cover  them  ;  have  ready  a  sheet  of  greased  paper,  place  it  on  the  top  oi 
the  quenelles,  and  cook  them  gently  for  about  £  an  hour.  Drain, 
arrange  in  a  circle  or  straight  row,  and  mask  with  a  good  white  saw •< •. 
Time. — To  make  and  cook,  from  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 
to  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

758.— RECHAUFFE  OF  VEAL.      (Fr.— Rechauffe    de 
Veau.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  veal,  forcemeat,  No.  v><),  sipjuts 
of  toast,  i  tablespoonful  of  coarsely-chopped  gherkin  or  capers,  £  of  a 
pint  of  water,  J  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  J  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  small  onion, 
i  blade  of  mace,  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepjx-r,  fat. 

Method.  Cut  the  nu-at  into  thin  slice*.  ;md  put  them  aside.  Plaee 
the  bones  and  trimmings  in  a  stewpan  with  the  onion,  mace,  and  a  little 
salt  and  p<'pp<  r,  and  cover  with  cold  Nfefeft  Simmer  genily  i 

i  hour,  then  strain,  ami  add  Btoi  mak«-  up  the  J  of  a 

pint.      Melt  the  butt-  t  in  a  SteWpaft,  a<l<l  tin-  Hour,  stir  an-l  • 
until   it    acquires   a    pair-brown   colour,   then    a<l<l    the   strained 
Stir  until   boiling,  add   the  lemon-juice,  season  to  ta^te.  and  put  in  the 
meat.     Stand  the  stewpan  where  the  contents  will  be  kept  just  below 
simmering  point,  and  let  it  remain  for   i    hour,  stirring  occasionally. 
Meanwhile  make  the  forcr-ir,-  ected,  form  into  small  ball 

fry  or  bake  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  brown.  Place  the  meat  on  a  hot 
dish,  strain  the  sauce,  season  to  taste,  add  the  gherkin,  and  pour  over 
the  meat.  Garnish  with  forcemeat  balls,  and  ^ipp» 'is  of  toast 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  Od.  or  ;d.,  in  addition  to  the 
meat.  Sufficient  for  4  or  Seasonable  at  any  tune. 

759.-RISSOLETTES    OF   VEAL.        (Fr.— Rissolettes 
de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  lean  cooked  veal,  i  oz.  of  lean  cooked  ham  or 

tongue,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  stock,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  J  an  or.  of 

flour,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  a  pinch  of 

salt   and   pepper,   i   egg, vermicelli,  4  ozs.  of  rough  puffpaste, 

frying-fat. 

Method.— Chop  the  meat  very  finely  ;  make  a  sauce  with  the  flour. 
butter  and  stock,  add  to  it  the  meat,  lemon-rind  and  ma' 

ir  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed.       Cool  slightly,  then  add  the 

,  and  turn  the  preparation  on  to  a  plate.     Roll  it  out 

thinly  jt  must  not  be  thicker  than  foolscap  paper),  cut  it  into  rounds 

of  i  J  or  2  inchc  i  ,  place  a  little  of  the  meat  mixture  on  one  half, 

fold   the  other  halt  OVCT,  making  the 
•  ttc   half- moon   or  -nd   press    the   edges   of   the 


466  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

paste  together.  Brush  the  rissolettes  over  with  beaten  egg,  roll  them 
in  crushed  vermicelli  (crushed  in  the  hand),  and  fry  them  until  lightly 
browned  in  hot  fat.  Arrange  them  in  a  pyramidal  form,  on  a  folded 
serviette  or  dish-paper,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.,  exclusive 
of  the  meat.  Sufficient  for  a  small  dish. 

760.— SCOTCH  COLLOPS.     (Fr.— Rechauffe  de    veau 
a  FEccossaise.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  roast  veal,  £  a  pint  of  veal  stock,  rashers  of  bacon 
rolled  and  fried,  f-  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  f-  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon -juice,  2  or  3  thin  strips  of  lemon-rind,  i  small  onion,  mace  or 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  slices  \  an  inch  thick,  and  trim  them 
into  oval  or  round  pieces  from  2  to  3  inches  in  size.  Score  them  on 
both  sides  with  a  sharp  knife,  sprinkle  them  liberally  with  salt,  pepper 
and  powdered  mace  or  nutmeg,  and  put  aside.  Place  any  bones  and 
trimmings  there  may  be  in  a  stawpan  with  the  onion,  lemon-rind, 
a  little  mace  or  nutmeg,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cover 
with  cold  water,  simmer  gently  for  i  hour,  then  strain  and  add  stock 
or  water  to  make  up  the  ^  pint.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
flour,  stir  and  cook  the  mixture  slowly  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown 
colour,  then  add  the  strained  stock.  Stir  until  boiling,  season  to  taste, 
and  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes.  Meanwhile  dip  the  collops  in  a 
little  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  fry  them  lightly  in  a  little 
hot  butter  or  fat,  then  drain  and  arrange  neatly  on  a  hot  dish.  Add 
the  lemon -juice  to  the  prepared  sauce,  strain  round  the  collops,  garnish 
with  the  crisply-fried  rolls  of  bacon,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  meat. 
Sufficient— Allow  i  Ib.  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


761.— SCOTCH  COLLOPS.     (Another  way.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  mutton  (chops),  i  oz.  of  butter,  \  a  small 
onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
stock,  salt  and  pepper,  croutons  of  bread,  i  gill  of  stock. 

Method. — Free  the  meat  from  bones  and  fat,  and  chop  it  or  mince 
it  evenly,  but  not  too  finely.  Chop  finely  the  onion,  fry,  i.e.  blend,  in 
the  butter,  put  in  the  meat  and  cook  quickly  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes.  Sprinkle  in  the  flour,  stir  for  a  while  and  moisten  with  the 
stock,  boil  up,  skim  and  cook  gently  for  about  £  an  hour.  Season  to 
taste,  add  the  chopped  parsley.  Dish  up,  and  garnish  with  croutons 
of  fried  bread. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  467 

Time. — About  J  of  an  hour.      Average  Cost,  is.  2d.   to  is.  4d.      Suffi- 
cient for  3  or  4  persons. 

762.— SHOULDER  OF  VEAL  BAKED.      (Fr.— Epaule 
de  Veau  rotie.) 

Ingredients. — A  shoulder  of  veal,  a  iew  rashers  of  bacon  (allow  2  to 

each  person),  forcemeat  (see  p.  281 ),  salt,  pepper,  flour,  fat  for  basting. 

Method. — Take  out  the  bone  (or  order  it  to  be  sent  in  already  boned). 

the  forcemeat  tightly  inside  the  shoulder,  and  fasten  the  sides 

with   small   skewers.        Have   ready    the    meat  tin,  with  a  sui; 

quantity  of  boiling  water  in  the  lower  tin,  and   in   the   upper  2  or  3 

poonfuls  of  hot  fat.     Put  in  the  meat,  baste  well,  bake  in  a  hot 

lor  10  or   15  minutes,  then  reduce  the   temperature  by  putting 

damper,  drawing  the  fire  away,  or  leaving  open  the  oven  door. 

^Baste  frequently  and    bake  gently  until  the  meat  is  done,  the  time 

required  depending  more  upon  the  thickness  of  a  joint   than  upon  its 

weight  ;  the  rule  of  so  many  minutes  to  each  Ib.  serves  as  a  rough, 

>t  absolutely  reliable  guide   in  cooking.     Meanwhile  prepare  the 

by  boiling  the  bones  removed  from  the  meat  (see  Brown  Gravy, 

p.  216),  and  a  few  minutes  before  the  meat  is  ready  to  serve,  roll  up 

the  rashers  of  bacon,  put  a  skewer  through  them,  and  bake  in  the  oven 

until  crisp.     To  serve,  remove  the  skewers  from  the  meat,  place  it  on 

a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  the  rolls  of  bacon,  and,  if    liked,   slices  of 

lemon.     A  piece  of  boiled  ham  or  bacon  may  be  substituted  for  the 

fjf  of  bacon.     Serve  the  gravy  separately  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — To  bake  a  large  shoulder,  about  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  from 
>  iod.  per  Ib. 

763. -SHOULDER  OF  VEAL,  STEWED. 

(Fr.— Epaule   de   Veau    6touffee.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  shoulder  of  veal,  12  ors.  of  sausage  meat,  6  ozs. 

1  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  a  few  slices  of  bacon,  2  lemons, 

.toes,  1 1  pints  of  white  sauce  (made  of  equal  quantites  of  milk 

iquor),  salt  and  pepper,  2  onions,  2  small  carrots,  i  small 

turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 

percorns. 

Method.— Bone  the  veal,  flatten  it  on  the  table,  season  well  with  salt 
pper,  spread  on  half  the  sausage  meat,  cover  with  half  the  force- 
add  the  remainder  of  the  sausage  meat,  and  cover  with 
as  before.     Roll  up  tightly,  bind  with  tape,  put  it  with  the 
ared  vegetables,  herbs,  and  peppercorns  into  boiling  water, 
boil  quickly  for  10  minutes,  add  a  little  cold  water  to  reduce  the  tcm- 
;  iiid  sum:.  gently  until  done  (see  notes  on  boiling, 


468         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

p.  404).  Remove  to  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  little  sauce  over,  garnish  with 
rolls  of  bacon,  and  slices  of  tomato  and  lemon,  and  serve  the  remainder 
of  the  sauce  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — Allow  25  to  30  minutes  to  each  Ib.  of  veal  Average  Cost, 
2S.  exclusive  of  the  meat. 

THE  FATTENING  OF  CALVES. — The  method  adopted  for  fattening  young  calves  is  very  simple. 
Their  principal  article  of  diet  is  milk,  with  which  they  are  freely  supplied.  The  house  or  shed  where 
the  calves  .ire  kept  is  well  ventilated,  and  the  temperature  so  regulated  that  the  extremes  of  heat 
and  cold  are  avoided.  A  moderate  amount  of  light  only  is  admitted,  and  lumps  of  chalk,  which  calves 
are  fond  of  licking,  are  placed  within  their  reach.  Thus  fed  and  tended,  at  the  end  of  8  or  9  weeks 
the  young  animals,  frequently  attain  the  weight  of  1 8  to  20  stone. 

764.     SWEETBREADS,  STEWED.     (See  No.  272) 

765.— SWEETBREADS    (To  Blanch.)       (Fr.— Ris    de 
Veau.) 

In  whatever  form  the  sweetbreads  may  be  subsequently  dressed, 
they  must  be  first  blanched,  to  render  them  white  and  firm.  One 
hour's  soaking,  at  least,  in  cold  water,  is  necessary  to  free  them  from 
blood,  and  they  may  with  advantage  be  allowed  to  remain  longer. 
They  should  then  be  put  into  a  stewpan,  covered  with  cold  water, 
and  brought  slowly  to  the  boil,  and  after  2  or  3  minutes'  gentle  cooking, 
may  be  either  transferred  to  a  basin  of  cold  water  and  allowed  to 
remain  in  it  until  cold,  or  well  washed  in  cold  water  and  pressed 
between  2  dishes  until  cold. 

766.— SWEETBREAD    FRIED.      (Fr.— Fritot    de  Ris 
de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — i  calf's  heart  sweetbread,  i  pint  of  white  stock  or  water 
(when  water  is  used,  add  a  little  onion,  carrot,  and  turnip),  i  egg, 
breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  of  butter  or  frying-fat. 

Method. — Blanch  the  sweetbread  (see  No.  765),  then  put  it  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  stock,  add  seasoning  if  necessary,  and  simmer  gently 
for  40  minutes.  Press  between  2  plates  until  cold,  then  cut  into  si  ires. 
brush  over  with  egg,  coat  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  the  butler  in  a 
saute-pan,  or  in  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  until  lightly  browned.  Drain 
well,  and  serve  on  a  folded  serviette,  or  dish  paper,  garnished  with 
fried  parsley. 

Time. — 1£  hours,  after  the  sweetbread  is  blanched.  Average  Cost, 
33.  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

767.— SWEETBREADS,      BRAISED.        (Fr.— Ris     de 
Veau,     braisee.) 

Ingredients. — A  pair  of  calf's  sweetbreads,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  small 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  469 

onion,  i  small  carrot,  £  a  small  turnip,  i  strip  of  celery,  6  peppercorns, 
a  IxDuquet -garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  glaze,  i  croute  of  fried 

il,  i  a  pint  of  good  gravy  or  tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces). 
Method. — Blanch  the  sweetbreads,  (see  No.  765)  slice  the  veget. 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  bouquet  and  peppercorns,  nearly  cover 
them  with  stock,  adding  more  when  required.      Wrap  the  sweetbreads 
in  a  buttered  paper,  place  them  on  the  top  of  the  vegetables,  put  on  the 
H<!,  and  cook  gently  for  J  of  an  hour.     In  the  meantime  cut  a  block 
•  ate)  of  bread  to  fit  the  dish,  and  not  less  than  2  inches  in  thickness. 

in  hot  fat,  drain  well,  place  the  sweetbreads  on  the  top  of  the  bread, 
brush  them  over  with  glaze,  pour  round  the  gravy,  or  tomato  sauce, 
and  serve.  If  preferred,  the  dish  may  be  garnished  with  little  groups 
of  green  peas,  haricots  verts,  or  a  macedoine  (mixed  garnish)  of 
vegetables,  either  placed  at  the  four  corners,  or  at  intervals  round  the 

»»f  the  croute. 

Time. — About   £  of  an  hour,  after   the  sweetbreads  are  blanched. 
Average  Cost,  58.  to  73.  ul.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

s  AND  CHOICE  or  VEAL.— The  best  veal  and  the  largest  supply  it  to  be  had  from  February 

end  of  July.     It  comes  principally  from  the  wtstem  counties.     In  purchasing  veal,  special 

;  >uld  be  given  to  its  closeness  of  grain  and  the  whiteness  of  the  flesh,  the  latter  being  an 

unt  consideration.     Veal  may  be  bought  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  and  oi  excellent  quality, 

but  except  during  the  months  when  the  supply  is  plentiful,  it  u  higher  in  price. 

768.-SWEETBREADS,   CONTE  STYLE.        (Fr.-Ris 
de  Veau  a  la  Cont6.) 

Ingredients.— 2    heart    -  .<!s,    larding   bactv 

tongue,  j  large  truffles,  |  a  pint  of  stock,  glaze.  For  the  mircpoix 
(a  foundation  preparation  of  vegetables,  herbs,  and  bacon,  for  brown 
soups,  sauces,  or  for  braised  meats)  :  a  sliced  onion,  a  si  rot, 

a  boiiqii-  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  a  few  small 

quenelles,  $  of  a  pint  of  Madere,  or  demi- 
iice  (see  Sauces). 

Method. — Blanch  and  press  the  sweetbreads  (see  No.  765  ),  lard 
on  the  best  side  with  strips  of  bacon  and  tongue,  and  stud  the  centre 
of  each  with  short  strips  of  truffle  inserted  in  small  holes  made  with 
point  of  a  knife.      Line  a  saut6-pan  with  the  mirepoix.  nearly  CO 
the  vegetables  with  stock,  adding  more  when  required,  lay  the  sweet- 
ds  on  the  top,  and  cover  with  a  buttered  paper.     Boil  up,  then 
transfer  the  saute-pan  to  a  slow  oven,  cook  gently  for  45  mimr 
basting  frequently  during  that  time,  and  a  few  minutes  before 
brush  over  with  gla/e.      Meanwhile,  shape  the  quenelles  in  small  t 
spoons  (see  No.  757),  and  poach  them  in  a  little  stock.     Cut  a  croute 
of  bread  to  fit  the  dish,  and  i  \\n  in  hot  fat.     Take  up  the 

in  and  skim  t:  reduce  by  rapid  U.ilin-.  then 

t  demi-glaze  sa  ;<  e.    frish  tl  la  on  the 

h  with   the  q 


470  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

of  truffle,  pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  round  the  dish,  and  serve  the  re- 
mainder in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours,  after  the  sweetbreads  are  blanched. 
Average  Cost,  los.  6d.  to  123.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

769.— SWEETBREADS,  FRIED,  AND  SPINACH. 

(Fr.— Ris  de  Veau  Frit  aux  Epinards.) 

Ingredients. — A  pair  of  sweetbreads,  £  pint  of  spinach  puree,  £  pint 
THICK  Bechamel  sauce,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  £  a  pint 
Madere,  Robert,  or  piquante  sauce  (see  Sauces),  frying-fat. 

Method. — Prepare  and  blanch  the  sweetbreads  (see  No.  765),  boil 
them  for  10  minutes  in  slightly  salted  water,  and  when  cool  cut  them 
into  slices  ±  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Have  the  Bechamel  sauce  ready 
and  nearly  cold  ;  season  each  slice  with  salt  and  pepper,  coat  both 
sides  with  the  sauce,  and,  if  possible,  put  them  on  ice  until  the  sauce 
sets.  Now  dip  the  slices  into  beaten  egg,  coat  them  very  carefully 
with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  lightly  browned  in  hot  fat.  Dish 
in  a  circle  on  a  thin  border  of  mashed  potato,  fill  the  centre  with  the 
spinach  puree  (see  Vegetables  as  to  method  of  preparation),  pour  the 
sauce  round  the  base  of  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  6s.  6d.  to  8s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

770.— SWEETBREADS     FRIED     IN     BATTER. 

(Fr.— Ris  de  Veau  frit  a  la  Villeroi.) 

Ingredients. — A  pair  of  sweetbreads,  £  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce,  £  a 
pint  of  tomato  or  piquante  sauce  (see  Sauces),  frying-fat.  For  the 
batter:  4  ozs.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  tepid  water,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
salad-oil,  the  whites  of  2  eggs,  salt. 

Method. — Make  a  smooth  batter  of  the  flour,  salad-oil,  tepid  water, 
and  a  little  salt,  and  when  ready  to  use  add  lightly  the  stiffly-whipped 
whites  of  eggs.  Prepare,  blanch,  cook  and  coat  the  slices  of  sweetbread 
as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe.  When  the  Bechamel  sauce  is  set, 
dip  the  slices  carefully  into  the  batter,  and  fry  them  until  golden- 
brown  in  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat.  Drain,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper, 
pile  them  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley.  Serve  the 
tomato,  or  piquante  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  6s.  6d.  to  8s.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

771.— SWEETBREADS  WITH  SUPREME  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Supreme.) 

Ingredients. — 2   heart   sweetbreads,  $    pint  of    supreme    sauce    (see 

' 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    VEAL  471 

Sauces),  i  pint  of  white  stock,  12  preserved  mushrooms,  croute  of  fried 
bread,  salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Prepare  and  blanch  the  sweetbreads  (see  No.  765 ),  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  the  stock,  and  a  little  sliced  onion  and  carrot, 
unless  the  stock  is  sufficiently  flavoured  with  these,  cover  with  a 
buttered  paper,  and  simmer  gently  for  40  minutes.  Meanwhile,  cut  a 
croute  of  bread  to  fit  the  dish,  and  not  less  than  2  inches  in  depth,  and 
fry  it  lightly  in  hot  fat.  Prepare  the  Supreme  sauce  as  directed,  cut 
the  mushrooms  into  slices,  and  add  them  to  it.  Dish  the  sweetbreads 
on  the  croute  of  bread,  and  pour  the  sauce  over.  The  dish  may  be 
garnished  with  little  groups  of  haricots  verts,  green  peas,  or  macedoine. 

Time. — About  £  of  an  hour  after  the  sweetbread  is  larded.  Average 
Cost,  6s.  to  8s.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

772.— SWEETBREADS      WITH      ITALIAN      SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Ris  de  Veau  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  heart  sweetbreads,  larding  bacon,  £  a  pint  of  Italionnc 
sauce  (see  Sauces),  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  12  small  quenelles  of  veal  or 
chicken  (see  No.  411),  12  preserved  mushrooms,  a  croute  of  fried  bread, 
salt  and  pepper,  a  mirepoix  of  i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  a  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  frying-fat,  glaze. 

Method. — Prepare,  blanch  and  press  the  sweetbreads  (see  No.  765), 
and  lard  them  with  strips  of  bacon  i£  inches  long,  and  about  £  of  an 
inch  wide.  Slice  the  vegetables,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the 
bouquet-garni  and  peppercorns,  nearly  cover  with  stock,  and  add  the 
remainder  as  that  in  the  stewpan  boils  away.  Place  the  sweetbreads 
on  the  top  of  the  vegetables,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  braise 
either  on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven  for  40  minutes,  basting  frequently. 
When  ready,  transfer  to  a  baking-tin,  and  put  into  a  hot  oven  for  a  few 
minutes,  to  brown  and  crisp  the  bacon.  Have  ready  a  croute  of  fried 
bread,  cut  to  the  size  of  the  dish,  and  2  inches  or  more  in  depth,  place 
the  sweetbreads  on  the  top  of  it,  and  brush  lightly  over  with  glaze. 
Pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  round  the  dish,  and  serve  the  remainder 
separately.  Garnish  with  the  quenelles  and  the  mushrooms,  previously 
heated  in  a  little  of  their  own  liquor,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour,  after  the  sweetbreads  are  blanched.  Average 
Cost,  6s.  6d.  to  8s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

773.—  SWEETBREADS,     DUBARRY     STYLE. 

(Fr.—Ris  de  Veau  a  la  Dubarry.) 

Ingredients. — 2   heart   sweetbreads,   larding  bacon,   slices  of  cooked 

ague,  £  of  a  pint  of  Hollandaise  sauce,  £  of  a  pint  of  Madere  sauce 

(see  Sauces),  £  a  pint  of  stock,  a  mirepoix  of  sliced  onion,  i  sliced  carrot, 


472  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

%  a  sliced  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  pepper- 
corns, i  large  cauliflower,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Blanch,  press,  and  braise  the  sweetbreads  (see  Nos.  765). 
Prepare  the  2  sauces  as  directed,  cook  the  cauliflower,  divide  it  into 
small  sprays,  re-heat  in  the  Hoilandaise  sauce,  and  warm  the  slices 
of  tongue  between  2  plates  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Remove 
the  sweetbreads  from  the  stewpan,  strain  the  liquor  into  a  smaller  pan, 
boil  rapidly,  and  when  sufficiently  reduced  add  to  it  the  Madere  sauce, 
and  season  to  taste.  Cut  the  sweetbreads  into  slices,  arrange  them 
with  alternate  slices  of  tongue  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the 
Madere  sauce  over,  and  pile  the  cauliflower  in  the  centre.  Serve 
hot. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  75.  6d.  to  93.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  persons. 

.HDUA2      HA 

774.— SWEETBREAD,  ESCALOPES  OF.  (Fr.— Es- 
calopes de  Ris  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — A  pair  of  sweetbreads,  \  pint  of  spinach  puree,  (see 
Vegetables),  \  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces),  £  a  pint  of  stock 
I  sliced  onion,  i  sliced  carrot,  \  a  sliced  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  meat  glaze,  i  truffle,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Blanch  the  sweetbreads  (see  No.  765).  Place  the  vege- 
tables in  a  stewpan,  with  the  sweetbreads  on  top,  add  the  peppercorns, 
bouquet-garni,  and  stock,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  close- 
fitting  lid,  and  braise  gently  for  40  minutes  (basting  occasionally). 
Take  them  up,  cut  into  neat  slices,  place  them  in  a  baking-tin,  brush 
over  with  glaze,  surround  to  half  their  depth  with  the  stock  in  which 
they  were  cooked,  and  put  them  into  a  moderate  oven  for  10 
minutes.  Sprinkle  each  with  a  little  chopped  truffle,  dish  in  a  circle 
on  a  border  of  lightly-browned  potato,  fill  the  centre  with  the 
spinach  puree,  and  pour  the  sauce  round. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6s.  to  8s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons. 

775.— SWEETBREAD,  ESCALOPES  OF  AND  TO- 
MATOES. (Fr.— Escalopes  de  Ris  de  Veau 
a  la  Tomate.) 

Ingredients. — A  pair  of  sweetbreads,  i  Ib.  of  tomatoes,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  cornflour  or  arrowroot,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  few 
drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal,  £  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces), 
£  pint  of  spinach  puree  (see  Vegetables),  a  little  finely-chopped  truffle, 
\  a  pint  of  stock,  vegetables,  salt  and  pepper,  sugar. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  sweetbreads  as  directed  in  the  preccd- 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  473 

,  and  cut  them  into  slices.     Rub  the  tomatoes  through  a  fine 

put  the  puree  into  a  small  stewpan,  add  a  little  salt  and 

i .  and  when  hot  put  in  the  cornflour  (previously  mixed  smoothly 

with  a  little  cold  water),  and  stir  until  the  puree  thickens.     Add  to  it 

the  lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  either  carmine  or  cochineal  drop 

by  drop  until  the  desired  colour  is  attained.     Spread  the  puree  quickly 

on  one  side  of  each  escalop,  sprinkle  on  a  little  truffle,  arrange  them 

in  a  circle  on  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  fill  the  centre  with  the  puree 

of  spinach  (green  peas  or  haricots  verts  may  bo  substituted),  and  pour 

mel    sauce    round. 

Time.     About    i    hour.     Average  Cost,   /s.   6d.    to  95.   6d.     Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  perse  >; 

776. -VEAL,  ESCALOPES  OF,  RUSSIAN  STYLE. 

(7'Y. — Escalopes  de  Veau  d  la  Russe.") 

Ingredients.  -  2  to  2\  Ib.  of  knu.  eal,  4  ozs.  of  pork,  4  ozs.  of 

<>/s.  of  ilaritied  butter,  2  ozs.  of  anc! 

of  preserved  mushrooms,   i   yolk  of  egg,   i    teaspoonful  of 
mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  breadcrumbs,  \  of  a  pint  of  demi-glaze 
sauce,  fried  bread crun 

Method.— Cut    the  veal  into  even-sized  scallops  of  j|  or  2$  inches 

ml  fry  them  in  j  ozs.  of  butter  0  :>  k  fire  until  lightly 

••m  liu-htlv  1  dishes  until  <•  m  the 

'   the  mushrooms.      Cut    the 

ml    marrow    into   small    pieces,   pound    them   in  a  mortar   until 
smooth,  then  add  t!. 

hen  thoroughly  incorporated  rub  tl/ 

Melt  the  remaining  07.  of  bur  .psthi.'klv 

with    the    farce   or   stuftr  ;    with     6  Tinkle 

with  melted  butter,  then  place  them  on  a  buttered  ba'« 

Ifl   a   moderately-hot    oven    for   about    i;    min'i;*-.      Ke-heat    the 
butter  in  a  saule-pan.  put  in  the  mushrooms  (p 

lew  minutes,  then  add  the  demi  uce,  season  to 

s,     I>i>h  bps  m  a  in.  le  on  a 

the  ragout  of  mushrooms  in  the  n-ntre. 
Time.      :  .     Average  Cost,  4s.    ^1.  to  ;>.     SufTlcient 

777.— VEAL,  FRICANDELLES    OF.    (/<>.— Fiicandeau 
de  Veau.) 

Ingredients,      i    Ib.  of  1-  tmely -minced,  ^  a  Ib.  of 

krs,  |  a  p 
•.d    trimnun->  ol    the   UK  at  "(see    "  S«  • 


474  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

No.  760),  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  nutmeg,  salt 
and  pepper,  frying-fat,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  milk,  lemon. 

Method. —  Soak  the  bread  in  a  little  milk.  Squeeze  as  dry  as  possible, 
and  beat  out  the  lumps.  Mix  the  veal,  suet,  lemon-rind,  a  good  pinch 
of  nutmeg,  and  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  well  together, 
stir  in  the  eggs,  and  shape  the  mixture  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  large 
walnut.  Drop  them  into  fast-boiling  stock  or  seasoned  water,  cook  for 
6  minutes,  then  drain  and  dry  well.  Coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Make  the  sauce  as  directed, 
strain  and  return  to  the  stewpan,  season  to  taste,  and  add  the  balls. 
Stew  gently  for  £  an  hour,  and  serve  garnished  with  sliced  lemon. 

Time. —  i  hour,  after  the  sauce  is  made.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  to 
2S.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

778.— VEAL  AU    GRATIN.       (Fr.— Hachis    de    Veau 
au  gratin.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  cold  roast  veal  finely-minced,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  small 
onion,  mace  or  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Place  any  bones  and  trimmings  there  may  be  in  a  stewpan 
with  the  onion,  a  blade  of  mace  or  a  little  nutmeg,  and  a  seasoning  of 
salt  and  pepper.  Cover  with  cold  water,  simmer  gently  for  i  hour, 
then  strain  and  add  stock  or  water  to  make  up  the  £  of  a  pint.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  it 
acquires  a  pale-brown  colour,  then  add  the  strained  stock.  Stir  until 
boiling,  add  the  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  simmer  gently  for  20 
minutes,  and  add  to  the  meat.  Fill  well-buttered  scallop  shells  with 
the  preparation,  cover  it  rather  thickly  with  breadcrumbs,  and  add 
a  few  bits  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  surface  is 
nicely-browned,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.,  in  addition 
to  the  meat.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

779.— VEAL  CAKE.      (Fr.— Gateau  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  uncooked  veal,  £  a  Ib.  of  bacon,  3  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  fine-chopped  parsley,  the  grated  rind  of  i 
lemon,  salt  and  pepper,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  (about). 

Method. — Cut  the  veal  and  bacon  into  dice,  cut  the  eggs  into  sections 
or  slices,  and  arrange  some  of  them  in  a  pattern  on  the  bottom  of  the 
buttered  mould  ;  mix  the  parsley,  lemon-rind,  flavourings  and  season- 
ings together.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  mould  with  a  thick  layer  of 
veal,  on  the  top  of  it  place  a  thin  layer  of  bacon,  add  a  few  slices  of 
egg,  and  sprinkle  well  with  the  seasoning.  Repeat  until  the  mould 
is  full,  pour  in  the  warm  stock,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  place-  the 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKINVi    VEAL  475 

mould  in  a  tin  containing  water,  and  bake  for  about  3  hours  in  a  slow 
oven.  Add  a  little  more  hot  stock  as  soon  as  "the  mould  is  taken  out 
of  the  oven.  When  cold,  turn  out  of  the  mould,  garnish  with  tufts 
of  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  about  2s.     Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

780.— VEAL  CUTLETS  A  LA  MAINTENON. 

(Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Veau  a  la   Maintenon.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  fillet  or  neck  of  veal,  butter  or  fat  for  fi 
£  of  a  pint  of  white  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  Hour,  i  oz.  of  ham 
shredded,  i  shallot  finely-chopped,  i  or  2  thin  strips  of  lemon- 
rind,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  veal  into  thin  slices,  which  afterwards  trim  into 
neat  cutlets.  Fry  these  until  lightly  browned  in  hot  fat  or  butter, 
and  put  them  aside.  Melt  the  ounce  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
ham  and  shallot,  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  and  sprinkle  in  the 
flour.  Stir  and  cook  slowly  until  a  light-brown  colour  is  obtained, 
add  the  stock  and  lemon-rind,  and  season  to  taste.  Stir  until 
boiling,  simmer  gently  for  15  minutes,  then  put  in  the  cutlets,  and  place 
the  stewpan  where  the  contents  will  be  kept  just  below  simmering 
point.  Stew  until  tender,  which  may  be  ascertained  by  piercing  the 
meat  with  a  skewer,  then  take  out  the  cutlets,  strain  the  sauce,  and  put 
until  cold.  Take  as  many  sheets  of  white  paper  as  there  are 
cutlet  iy  the  corners,  thus  giving  them  something  of  the  shape 

oi  a  h  1  brush  them  over  on  both  sides  with  oil  or  clarified 

butter.  Place  a  cutlet  on  each  paper,  cover  with  sauce,  enfold  and 
fasten  securely,  so  that  the  sauce  cannot  escape.  Broil  over  a  gentle 
fire,  or  hake  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  serve  in  the  paper  cases. 

Time. — To  stew  the  cutlets,  i  hour  ;   to  broil,  from  12  to  15  mii 
Average    Cost,    2s.  4d.       Sufficient— Allow    2    cutlets    to    each   person. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


781.— VEAL    CHOPS.      (Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  loin  of  veal,  a  ;<xi  rolls  of  bacon,  flour, 

r,  salt  an^l 
Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  chops,  and  trim  them  neatly,      Run  a 

i-  through  the  rolls  of  bacon,  fry  them  lightly,  and  keep  hot  until 

Sprinkle  the  chops  with  pepper,  fry  them  in  the  bacon  fat 

,  in  order  that  they  may  be  thoi  ><>ked  without  becoming 

too  br  rep  the  chops  hot,  drain  off  any  fat  that  remains  m  the 

I  little  butter.     When  melted,  sprinkle  in  a  little  flour, 

.md  add  $  of  a  pint  of  boiling  water.     Season  to  taste, 


476         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

boil  up  and  strain.     Arrange  the  chops  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  gravy 
over,  and  garnish  with  the  bacon. 

Time. — To  fry,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — For  other  methods  of  cooking  veal  chops,  see  "  Haricot  of  Veal  " 
and  "  Veal  Ragout." 

782.— VEAL  CUTLETS.     (Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. —  i-J-  Ib.  of  fillet  or  neck  of  veal,  butter  or  fat  for  frying, 
\  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely 
grated  lemon-rind,  salt  and  pepper,  egg,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  thin  slices,  which  afterwards  trim  into 
neat  fillets.  Beat  the  egg,  mix  with  it  the  parsley,  lemon-rind,  and  a 
good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Brush  the  cutlets  over  with  this 
preparation,  coat  them  carefully  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot 
butter  or  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Serve  with  either  tomato  or 
piquante  sauce,  or,  when  gravy  is  preferred,  brown  a  little  flour  in  the 
fat  in  the  frying-pan,  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  pour  in  a  \  of  a  pint 
of  hot  water,  boil  up,  and  strain. 

Time. — To  fry,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2S.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

783.— VEAL   CUTLETS,   FRENCH   STYLE. 

(Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Veau  a  la  Fran<?aise.) 

Ingredients. — 5  or  6  bones  of  the  best  end  of  the  neck  of  veal,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  lemon-rind,  \  teaspoonful 
of  fine-powdered  lemon-thyme,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Saw  off  the  chine-bone  and  the  upper  part  of  the  rib-bones, 
leaving  the  latter  about  3  inches  long.  Divide  into  cutlets,  flatten 
with  a  cutlet-bat,  trim  neatly,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt 
\  an  oz.  of  butter,  add  to  it  the  herbs,  parsley,  lemon-rind,  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  and  mix  thoroughly.  Dip  each  cutlet  in  this  mixture,  and  coat 
with  the  breadcrumbs.  Melt  the  remainder  of  the  butter  in  a  saute- 
or  frying-pan,  and  fry  the  cutlets  until  nicely  browned  on  both  sides. 
Drain,  dish  in  a  circle,  put  a  frill  on  each  bone,  and  serve  with  tomato 
or  demi-glace  sauce. 

Time. — To  cook  the  cutlets  from  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
8d.,  exclusive  of  the  veal.  Sufficient,  allow  one  cutlet  for  each  person. 

784.— VEAL    FLADEON. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  lean  veal  finely  minced,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  suet  very 
finely  chopped,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  made  from  bones  and  trimmings 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKINT,    VEAL 

of  the  meat,  3  eggs.  2  tablespoonluls  of  breadcrumbs,  a  good  pinch 
of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  gravy  or  a  little  milk,  nutmeg,  salt  and 

Method.— Mix    the   wal,   suet   and   breadcrumb    feogntber,   add   the 

lemon-rind,  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  a  good  nig  of  salt  and 

r.     Stir  in  i  egg,  and  as  much  gravy  or  milk  as  will  thoroughly 

n  the  whole.     Turn  into  a  buttered  piedish  which  it  will  half  till, 

and  bake  for  i  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.      I  Vat  the  remaining  2  eggs 

well,  add  the  J  of  a  pint  of  stock,  and  season  to  taste.     IVur  over  the 

preparation,  bake  until  set,  and  serve  in  the  dish. 
Time. — To  bake,  about  i  \  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  jd.     Sufficient 
;  nr  4  p  rsons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

785.  -VEAL  LOAF.     (Fr.— Pain  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  i,  J  a  IK  of  sausage 

2  table -poonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  a  little  gravy  or  stock,  i  egg, 

per. 

Method.    -Mix   the  veal,  sausage  meat   and  breadcrumbs   top- 
season  liberally  with  salt   and   pepper,  and  add   the  <  thor- 

oughly, and  add  gravy  or  st<  I  h«  .nmghly 

>rm  into  a  short  thick  roll.  htlv  with  HIV- 

when  economy  is  not  an  object,  e<  -g  and  breadcrumbs.     Bake 

',  and 

i  hot  or  cold.     When  ild  be  accomp 

by  good  gravy  or  some  suitable  s. 

Time.      1  hour.     Average  Cost,  ,  Mitiun  to  tin 

Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

786.— VEAL   CUTLETS  WITH   OYSTERS. 

(Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Veau  aux  Huitres." 

Ingredients,   -i  IK  ot  i  .il,  12  sauce  oysters,  i  oz.  of  K 

;>oonful  oi  ,  ^  a  pint  >hallots,  : 

[>er. 

Method.     Cut   the  moal   into    -  or  7  pieces  of  equal  size  ami   : 
mess,   flatten    t!  and    turn    them    into   a 

i.     Melt    the  butter  in  a  saut«  jxui  or  trying  pan, 
and   CUtletS,   and    try    tli«.i< 

ily  boiling 
in.  put  in  the  ballots,  and  the  butter  in  . 

r  ^  an  hour.     Meanwhile 

he  beards  of  the  oyst  \hite  stock 

and  add  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan.  5 
M  the  oysters  and  lemon-juice,  and  season 

over, 


478  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

ana  serve.  The  oysters  should  remain  in  the  hot  sauce  until  they  lose 
their  flabbiness,  but  if  overcooked  they  will  become  hard  and  indi- 
gestible. 

Time. — About  f  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

787.— VEAL,  HAM  AND  LIVER  PIE.      Fr.— (Pate  de 
Veau.) 

Ingredients. — ^  a  Ib.  of  cold  roast  veal  finely-chopped,  \  a  Ib.  of  cold 
boiled  liver  finely-chopped,  \  a  Ib.  of  cooked  ham  finely-chopped, 
£  a  Ib.  of  sausage  meat,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
f  a  pint  of  good  gravy  made  from  bones  and  trimmings,  puff  paste,  or 
rough  puff,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pound  each  kind  of  meat  separately,  and  season  to  taste. 
Place  in  a  piedish  in  layers,  sprinkling  each  layer  with  parsley,  and  add 
a  little  of  the  gravy.  Cover  with  paste,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from 
35  to  40  minutes,  and  pour  the  remainder  of  the  gravy  through  the 
hole  in  the  top  of  the  pie.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost  25.  to  23.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

788.— VEAL,  LARDED  AND  ROAST.      (Fr.—  Poitrine 
de  Veau  roti.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  neck  of  veal,  larding  bacon,  stock,  i£  ozs.  of 
butter,  i^  ozs.  of  flour,  i  onion  sliced,  2  carrots  sliced,  i  small  turnip 
sliced,  2  or  3  strips  of  celery  sliced,  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),  10  peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper,  fat  for  basting. 

Method. — Saw  the  bones  across,  remove  the  short  ends  and  the  skin, 
and  fold  the  flap  under.  Lard  the  upper  surface  in  close  rows  (see 
No.  737).  Place  the  prepared  vegetables  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
bouquet-garni,  peppercorns,  salt  to  taste,  and  stock  to  barely  cover 
the  vegetables.  Lay  the  meat  on  the  top,  cover  with  a  greased  paper, 
and  put  on  the  lid,  which  must  fit  closely.  Cook  gently  for  2  hours, 
adding  more  stock  when  necessary.  Have  ready  a  baking- tin  con- 
taming  a  Uttle  hot  dripping,  put  in  the  meat,  baste,  and  bake 
gently  for  \  an  hour,  basting  it  well.  Meanwhile  melt  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  gently  until  the  mixture 
acquires  a  nut-brown  colour,  then  add  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  including 
that  from  the  stewpan  in  which  the  veal  was  braised.  Stir  until 
boiling,  simmer  gently  for  a  few  minutes,  and  season  to  taste.  Serve 
the  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  and  the  sauce  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — About  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  479 

789.-  VEAL  MARBLED. 

Ingredients. — Remains  of  a  cooked  tongue,  an  equal  quantity  of 
cooked  veal,  a  little  stock  which  will  jelly  when  cold,  i  hard-boiled 
egg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Chop  the  tongue  and  veal  separately  until  very  fine, 
and  if  possible,  pound  smoothly  in  a  mortar.  Season  well  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Divide  the  egg  into  slices  or  small  sections,  and 
arrange  them  in  some  simple  pattern  on  the  bottom  of  a  small  mould 
or  basin.  Place  the  tongue  and  veal  in  the  mould  in  irregularly- 
shaped  pieces,  moistening  each  layer  with  stock,  and  allowing  it  to  run 
n,  and  thus  divide  the  lumps  of  tongue  and  veal.  Put  aside 
until  set,  then  turn  out  and  use  as  a  breakfast,  luncheon  or  supper 
dish. 

Time. — 2  hours  to  set.  Average  Cost,  is.  }d.  with  j  Ib.  of  tongue. 
Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

790.— VEAL  FINGERS.     (/-V.-Tranchettes  de  Veau). 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  cold  roast  veal  finely-minced,  $  an  oz.  of  butter, 
|  an  oz.  of  flour,  $  of  a  pint  of  stock,  $  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
ill  onion,  a  pinch  of  mace  or  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  a  little 
finely-chopped  parsley,  fingers  of  fried  or  toasted  bread. 

Method.  the  sauce  as  directed  in  "  Veal  au  Gratin,"  No.  778. 

al,  mace  or  nutmeg,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper 
well  together,  add  the  sauce,  spread  the  mixture  on  the  fi; 

ith  parsley.     Make  thoroughly  hot  in  the  oven,  and  sc 
Time. — To  re-heat,  5  or  6  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d.,  in  addition 
Sufficient  for  8  or  10  ti:  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

79 1. -VEAL  OLIVES.       (Fr. -Olives  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  cut  in  8  thin  slices,  an  equal 
number  of  slices  of  bacon,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  i  pint  of 
brown  -.nice,  i|  ozs.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  oli 

Method. — The  slices  of  meat  and  bacon  should  be  about  4  inches 

;\d  3  inches  wide.     Place  a  slice  of  bacon  on  each  piece  of  meat, 

i  on  a  thin  layer  of  forcemeat,  roll  up  tightly,  and  fasten  securely 

with  twine.     Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  olives,  and  fry 

until  lightly  browned.     Pour  away  the  butter,  add  the  brown  sauce 

cover  closely,  and  simmer  gently  from  ij  to  2  hours.     \ 

remove  ti  unge  the  olives  in  2  rows  on  a  foundation 

potatoes,  and  strain  the  sauce  over.     Or,  arrange  them  in  a 

ished  potatoes,  and  fill  the  uth  puree 

Tirm-  i  cook,  about  2J  hours.     Average  Cost,  33.  4d. 

Sullicient.  »r  6  pers< 


480  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

792.— VEAL    OLIVES,    FRENCH    STYLE. 

(Fr. — Olives  de  Veau  a  la  Fran^aise.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  a  few  strips  of  larding  bacon, 
£  a  Ib.  of  pork  sausage  meat,  2\  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  pint  of 
good  stock,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  \  a  small  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  6 
peppercorns,  2  cloves,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  meat 
glaze,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  tablespoonful  of  coarsely-chopped 
gherkins,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  thin  slices  about  4  inches  long  and  3 
inches  wide,  and  lard  them  on  one  side  with  strips  of  bacon,  i£  inches 
long  and  about  |  of  an  inch  wide.  On  the  side  not  larded  spread  a  thin 
layer  of  sausage  meat,  roll  up  tightly,  and  fasten  securely  with  twine. 
Melt  \\  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  fry  the  olives  until  the  entire 
surface  is  lightly  browned.  When  sufficiently  fried,  remove  them 
to  a  plate,  put  in  the  peppercorns,  cloves,  bouquet-garni,  the  vegetables 
sliced,  fry  10  minutes,  then  three  quarters  cover  the  vegetables  with 
stock,  and  add  the  rest  as  that  in  the  stewpan  boils  away.  Place  the  olives 
on  the  top  of  the  vegetables,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  put  on  the 
lid,  and  braise  either  on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven  for  nearly  i  hour. 
When  tender,  take  them  out  of  the  stewpan,  put  them  in  a  hot  oven 
for  a  few  minutes  to  brown  and  crisp  the  bacon,  remove  the  strings, 
and  brush  over  with  glaze.  Have  ready  the  roux,  or  thickening,  made 
by  frying  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter  and  the  flour  together  until  brown, 
strain  the  liquor  from  the  stewpan  on  to  it,  stir  and  boil  until  smooth, 
season  to  taste,  and  simmer  for  a  few  minutes.  Dish  the  olives  in  a 
straight  row  on  a  foundation  of  mashed  potato  ;  add  the  lemon-juice 
and  gherkins  to  the  sauce,  season  to  taste,  and  pour  the  sauce  round 
the  dish. 

Time. — From  2\  to  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

793.— VEAL  OLIVES.  (Fr.— Olives  de  Veau.) 

(Another  way.) 

Ingredients. — An  equal  number  of  thin  slices  of  cold  veal  and  raw 
bacon,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of 
flour,  i  small  onion  sliced,  •$•  a  small  carrot  sliced,  6  peppercorns,  2 
cloves. 

Method. — Put  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  meat  into  a  stewpan, 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  boil  gently  for  at  least  2  hours,  then 
strain,  and  season  to  taste.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stew-pan,  fry  the 
vegetables  slightly,  add  the  flour  and  cook  until  brown,  then  ^  it 
in  the  peppercorns,  cloves,  salt  to  taste,  i  pint  of  the  stock,  and 
stir  until  it  boils.  The  slices  of  meat  must  be  thin,  about  4  inches 
long  and  3  inches  wide  ;  spread  on  each  a  little  forcemeat,  roll  > 


ENTREES. 


i.— Toulouse  Pasty.        2.— Fillets  of  Beef.        3.— Beef  Galantine.        41— Z«phires  of  Duck. 
3.— Mutton  Cutlets  in  Aspic.  6.~Saui<  of  VeaJ.  7.— Chartreuse  of  Pheasant. 

8.— Curried  Veal.        9.— Chicken  Medallions.        to.— Veal  Stew. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOK  INC,    VEAL  481 

tightly,  wrap  a  thin  slice  of  bacon  round,  and  tic  securely  with  string. 
Place  the  rolls  on  end  in  the  stewpan,  cover  with  a  greased  paper, 
and  cook  very  gently  for  i£  hours.  Remove  the  string,  dish  in  two 
straight  rows,  and  strain  the  sauce  over. 

Tjme. — 1|.  to  i£  hours,  after  the  stock  is  made.  Average  Cost, 
is.  for  a  dish  of  12,  exclusive  of  the  meat.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

794. -VEAL  OLIVE  PIE.    (Fr.— Pate  de  Veau.) 

Ingredient*. — An  equal  number  of  thin  slices  of  cold  veal  and  raw 
bacon,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  J  a  pint  of  good  gravy,    puff 
paste,  or  rough  puff  (see  pastes),  forcemeat   balls,  2  hard-b< 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  bones  and  trimmings  down  for  gr 
the  rolls  as  dire*  '«<•«!  in  i  ecipe,  place  them  on  end  in  a  pi«-- 

di*h,  intersperse  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg  and  forcemeat  1 
fried),  and  half  fill   the  dish  with  well-seasoned  gravy.     Cover  with 
paste,  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  rly  i  hour,  and  as  soon 

as  the  pie  is  baked,  pour  in  the  rest  of  the  gravy  through  the  hole 
in  the  centre.  Serve  cither  hot  or  cold. 

Time.— To  prepare  and  bake,  about  2  hours.     Average  Cost, 
is.  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  meat.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

795. -VEAL  PATTIES.      (Fr.-Bouchees  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients.     Pufl  paste.     For  the  mixture  :  8   ozs.    of   lean  cooked 

cooked  ham,  3  or  4  tublcspoonfnls  of   rich 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  tcaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of 
nutmeg,  the  grated  rind  of  $  a  lemon,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Chop  the  veal  and  ham  very  finely,  pound  it  in  the  mortar 
with  the  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lemon-rind,  lemon-juice,  moisten  by 
degrees  with  the  stock,  and  when  perfectly  smooth  rub  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Stir  in  the  cream,  season  to  taste,  and  use.  When  the  paste 
ly  for  the  last  turn,  roll  it  out  to  about  $  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
and  stamp  mit  8  or  grounds  with  a  hot  wet  cntt<  -.csindia: 

uith  I"  .   then  take  a  cutter  2  or  3  sizes  smaller, 

dip  it  into  hoi;  ;.  and  make  an  incision  in  the  centre  of  each 

.to  halt  the  depth  of  the  paste.     Bake  in  a  hot  o\  i  d.-ne 

remove  the  tops,  scoop  out  the  soft  inside,  Till  with  the  nuxti. 

.     They  may  be  served  either  hot  or  cold  ;  if  the 
r,  they  should  tirst  l>c  put  into  the  oven  to  become  thoroughly 

Time.     I  nun   i   to  i|  hours,  at  Average  Cost, 

>i  the  meat.     Sufficient  for  8  or  9  patties. 

R 


482  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

796.— VEAL  AND  HAM  PATTIES.     (Economical.) 

Ingredients. — 12  ozs.  of  cooked  veal,  4  ozs.  of  either  cooked  or  raw 
ham,  about  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon, 
a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  i  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  i  level  saltspoonful 
of  pepper,  puff  paste,  rough  puff  (see  pastes). 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  dice,  add  to  it  the  salt,  pepper, 
herbs,  and  moisten  with  the  stock  or  water.  Make  the  paste  as  directed, 
roll  it  out  thinly,  and  stamp  out  with  a  cutter  a  little  larger  than  the 
patty-pans  as  many  rounds  as  possible,  and  put  12  aside  to  form  the 
covers.  Roll  out  the  cuttings,  stamp  into  rounds,  place  one  in  each 
patty-pan,  fill  with  meat,  moisten  the  edges  with  water,  and  put  on  the 
covers.  Press  the  edges  together,  notch  them  at  regular  intervals, 
make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  top,  and  decorate  with  leaves.  Brush 
over  with  egg  or  milk,  and  bake  for  about  20  minutes  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven. 

Time. — 20  minutes  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  2d.  each.  Sufficient  for 
12  large  patties. 

797.— VEAL  AND  HAM  PIE.     (Fr.— Pate  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — i£  Ib.  of  lean  veal  (fillet  or  cushion  part),  £  of  a  Ib.  of 
cooked  ham,  2  or  3  hard-boiled  eggs,  about  £  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed 
dried  herbs,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a  little  stock  or  water, 
seasoning,  puff  or  rough  puff  paste  (see  pastes). 

Method. — Cut  the  veal  into  neat  slices,  free  from  skin,  also  cut  the 
ham  into  suitable  slices.  Arrange  a  layer  of  veal  in  a  piedish,  then  a 
layer  of  ham,  and  next  a  layer  of  thin  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg.  Season 
each  layer  with  a  very  little  salt  and  pepper,  dried  herbs  and  parsley. 
Continue  thus  until  the  dish  is  quite  full.  Pour  in  about  i  gill  of  stock, 
or,  failing  this,  water.  Cover  with  paste  in  the  usual  manner,  decorate 
the  centre  tastefully  with  paste  leaves,  brush  over  with  egg,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  i£  hours. 

Time  to  make  and  cook,  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  Sufficient  for  7 
or  8  persons. 

798.— VEAL  AND  HAM  PIE.     (Fr.— Pate  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  neck  or  breast  of  veal,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ham  or 
bacon,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  forcemeat  balls,  the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon, 
a  good  pinch  of  ground  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  puff  paste,  or  rough 
puff  (see  pastes). 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  i£  inches  square,  put  them  into  a 
fireproof  dish  (a  jar  placed  in  a  saucepan  of  water  may  be  substituted, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  with  cold  water,  and  cook  gently 
either  in  the  oven  or  on  the  stove  for  2  hours.  Meanwhile  cut  the  ham 
into  narrow  strips,  the  eggs  into  thin  slices,  make  the  forcemeat  balls, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  483 

and  fry  them  lightly  in  a  little  hot  dripping.     Make  the  paste  as  directed, 
roll  it  out  to  a  suitable  thickness,  invert  the  piedish  in  the  centre  of  it, 
and  cut  round,  leaving  a  margin  of  about  J  of  an  inch.    Line  tl. 
of  the  piedish  with  the  trimmings  (paste  is  always  lighter  when  not 
re-rolled).     The  meat  must  be  allowed  to  cool  slightly,  but  then 

<>  allow  it  to  become  quite  cold,      Cover  the  bottom  of  the  piedish 
with  meat,  add  a  few  strips  of  bacon  and  slices  of  egg,  sprinkle  lightly 
with  salt,  pepper,  mace  and  lemon-rind,  and  intersperse  with  forcemeat 
balls.     Repeat  until  the  dish  is  full,  piling  the  meat  high  in  the  centre, 
for  which  elevation  the  J  of  an  inch  margin  of  paste  is  allowed.     Half 
fill  the  dish  with  gravy,  put  on  the  cover,  moisten  and  press  the  edges 
together,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  top,  decorate    with  1 
brush  over  with  egg,  and  bake  from  45  to  60  minutes  in  a  mod< 
hot  oven.     As  soon  as  the  pie  is  baked  add  a  little  mot  tsoned 

through  the  hole  in  the  top,  and  when  served  hot,  send  a  little 

ible  in  a  tureen  :  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  was  It 
should  provide  this.     When  a  pie  is  intended  to  be  eaten  cold,  spaces 
should  be  left  between  the  meat  for  the  gravy  to  form  i 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  8d.  Sufficient  for  8  or  10 
persons. 

799.— VEAL  POT  PIE.  (Fr.— Pate  de  Veau  et  Pommes 
de  terrc.) 

Ingredients,     j  Ib.  of  either  raw  or  cooked  veal,  J  a  Ib.  of  j»i 
pork,  i  Ib.  of  potatoes  parboiled  and  thickly  slued,  stock  made  from 
bones  and  trimmings  (see  "  Veal  au  Gratin  "  No.    778),  puff  paste, 

ami   pep] 

Method.— Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  and  cut 
the  pork  into  thin  small  slices.  Place  the  veal  and  pork  in  layers  in 
a  pirihsh.  srasnmii^  each  1.  allv  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 

3  fill  the  dish  with  K  d  dish,  cook  in  a  moder- 

ate oven  for  i£  hours,  and  cool  slightly.     When  using  cold  meat  this 
preliminary  CO  not  necessary.  Add  stock  to  replace  th 

potatoes  on  the  top,  and  cover  with  paste.     Bake  in  a  moder- 
atelv  hot  oven  from  40  t«>  .;;  minutes,  add  more  hot  stock  through  the 

in  the  top.  and  serve  (see  "  Veal  and  Ham  Pie  "). 
Time.— To  bake,  40  to  45  minutes.     Average    Cost,  2s.  gd.    Sufficient 
or  7  persons.     Seasonable   at  anv  ti 

800.— VEAL   PUDDING.     (Fr.—  Pouding  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients.     .•  11  >.  a  Ib.  of  raw  ham,  bacon, or  pickled  pork, 

snot   past- 

Meth*  ther  small   n-  I,   and  put   the 


484  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

bones  and  trimmings  aside.  Cut  the  ham,  bacon  or  pork  into  narrow 
strips.  Line  a  well-greased  basin  thinly  with  paste,  put  in  the  meat, 
interspersing  strips  of  bacon,  and  seasoning  liberally  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Nearly  fill  the  basin  with  boiling  water,  put  on  a  thin  lid  of 
paste,  and  cover  with  a  greased  paper  (see  "  Beef  Steak  Pudding  "). 
Place  the  basin  in  a  steamer,  or  in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water 
to  half  the  depth  of  the  basin,  and  add  boiling  water  as  that  in  the 
saucepan  reduces.  Cook  for  3  hours,  and  serve  with  good  gravy  made 
from  the  bones  and  trimmings. 

Time. — To  cook,  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S.  6d.  to  2S.  pd.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

801.—  VEAL  RAGOUT.     (Fr.— Ragout  deVeau.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  neck,  breast,  or  knuckle  of  veal,  i£  ozs.  of 
dripping,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  onion  cut  into  dice,  i  carrot 
cut  into  dice,  ^  a  small  turnip  cut  into  dice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving.  Heat  the 
fat  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  meat  until  lightly-browned,  then  drain  off 
the  fat.  Cover  the  meat  with  hot  water,  add  the  vegetable  trimmings, 
and  keep  the  carrot,  turnip  and  onion  dice  in  water  until  required.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  with  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  cook  as  slowly 
as  possible  for  2  hours,  taking  care  to  keep  the  water  just  at  simmering 
point.  Meanwhile  heat  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  add  the  flour, 
and  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  it  acquires  a  pale-brown  colour.  When 
the  meat  is  done,  strain  the  liquor,  add  stock  or  water  to  make  up 
|  of  a  pint,  and  mix  with  the  blended  butter  and  flour.  Stir  until 
boiling,  season  to  taste,  add  the  meat,  and  simmer  gently  for  £  an 
hour.  Serve  garnished  with  the  vegetable  dice,  which  should  be 
boiled  separately. 

Time. — About  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

802.— VEAL  ROLLS  WITH  MIXED  VEGETABLES. 
(Fr. — Paupiettes  de  Veau  a  la  Jardiniere.) 

Ingredients. — An  equal  number  of  thin  slices  of  cooked  veal  and  raw 
bacon,  sausage  meat,  stock,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  carrot, 
%  a  turnip,  20  very  small  button  onions,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  peas,  6 
peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  slices  3^  inches  long  and  2\  inches  wide, 
and  put  them  aside.  Turn  the  carrot  and  turnip  with  a  pea -shaped 
cutter,  or  cut  them  into  small  dice.  Put  the  bones  and  trimmings 
of  the  meat  into  a  stewpan,  add  the  peppercorns  and  trimmings  of 
carrot  and  turnip,  cover  with  cold  water,  boil  gently  for  at  least 
2  hours,  then  strain  and  season  to  taste.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  485 

add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  brown,  then  add  the  stock, 
stir  until  boiling,  and  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes.  Spread  a  little 
sausage  meat  on  each  slice  of  veal,  roll  up  lightly,  enclose  in  thin  slices 
ol  bacon,  and  tie  securely  with  string.  Place  the  rolls  on  end  in  the 
stew  pan,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  put  on  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  cook 
gently  for  i  hour,  basting  occasionally  with  the  sauce.  Remove  the 
string,  dish  in  two  straight  rows,  strain  the  sauce  round  and  garnish 
with  groups  of  mixed  vegetables,  previously  cooked  s-  until 

tender. 

Time. — Altogether  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  one  dish,  about  is.  6d. 
Sufllcient — Allow  2  rolls  to  each  person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

803.— VEAL    ROLLS.     (See  Veal  Olives.) 

804.— VEAL    SAUSAGES.  (Fr.  —  Saucissons    de 

Veau.) 

Ingredients.— i  lb.  of  lean  veal,  i  Ib.  of  fat  bacon,  i  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  fresh  sage,  salt  and  pepper,  sausage  skins,  fryinx- 
fat. 

Method. — Chop  both  veal  and  bacon  finely,  add  the  sage  and  a  liberal 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.     Press  lightly  into  the  skins,  prick 
and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely-br-  If  preferred,  form  into 

round  cakes,  co.it  with  seasoned  flour  or  eggs  and  bivadi  rumbs,  and 
fry  in  h<>: 

Time. — To  fry,  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  6d.  for  this 
quant  it  y. 

805.— VEAU  SAUTE  A  LA  MARENGO.         (Fr.— Filets 
de  Veau  a  la  Marengo.) 

Ingredients. — 1$  lb.  of  fillet  or  cushion  of  veal,  £  of  a  pint  of  salad, 
oil,  ^  of  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  £  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces), 

i  y,  i  truffle,  8  preserved  mushrooms,  i  shallot  ; 
<.  hopped,  poached  eggs,  fleurons  (.or  little  half  -moon  shapes)  of  1 
putt-paste,  salt  and  p<  . 

Method,  Cut  tin-  meat  into  pieces  about  2$  inches  square.  Make 
tin-  oil  hot  in  a  M-  wpan.  fry  the  pieces  ot  inr.it  cjnukly  until  lightly 
browned,  and  remove  them  as  soon  as  they  are  fried.  Put  in  the 
shallot,  and  fry  slightly,  then  drain  the  oil  into  a  smaller  stt 
Cut  the  mushrooms  and  truffle  into  slices,  add  them  to  the  shallots 
in  the  •},  put  in  the  2  sauces,  the  wine  and  meat,  season  to 

taste,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  in  the  oven  or  on  the  stove  for 
about  40  minutes.      Fry  the  eggs  in  the  oil.  and  make  them  as  plump 
ible.      The  llenion^  <»f  putt  :  :ild  be  stamped 

out  in  the  four.  ,,ver  \\ith  ei:gt  and  baked  in 


486         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

oven.  Dish  the  meat  in  a  pyramidal  form,  strain  the  sauce  over, 
garnish  with  the  sliced  truffle,  mushrooms,  poached  eggs,  and 
neurons  of  puff-paste,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  33.  o/l.  to  45.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

806.— VEAL  SOUFFLE.       (Fr.— Souffle  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  uncooked  veal,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce, 
£  of  a  pint  of  double  cream,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  3  eggs,  i  small  truffle,  a 
pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  \  a  pint  of  Bechamel  or  Supreme 
sauce. 

Method. — Pass  the  meat  2  or  3  times  through  the  mincing  machine, 
then  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  adding  gradually  the  butter,  white  sauce 
(cold),  and  3  yolks  and  i  white  of  egg,  one  at  a  time.  Season  to  taste, 
add  a  little  nutmeg,  and  when  the  mixture  is  perfectly  smooth  rub  it 
through  a  fine  wire  sieve.  Whip  the  cream  slightly,  whisk  the  remain- 
ing 2  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  mix  lightly  with  the  veal  puree. 
Have  ready  a  well-buttered  plain  mould,  decorated  or  not,  according  to 
taste,  with  sliced  or  chopped  truffles,  put  in  the  mixture,  cover  with 
a  buttered  paper,  and  steam  gently  for  about  i  hour.  Serve  with  the 
Bechamel  or  Supreme  sauce  round. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  from  if  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S., 
exclusive  of  the  sauce.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

807.— VEAL,  SMALL  SOUFFLES   OF.         (Fr.—  Petits 
Souffles  de  Veau  a  la  Minute.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  lean  uncooked  veal,  3  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of 
cream,  i  truffle,  salt  and  pepper,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
(see  Sauces). 

Method. — Butter  some  small  china  souffle  cases.  Pass  the  meat 
2  or  3  times  through  a  mincing  machine,  then  pound  it  in  a  mortar 
until  smooth,  adding  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  and  the  cream 
gradually.  Season  to  taste,  and  rub  through  a  fine  wire  sieve.  Whip 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiffly,  and  stir  them  lightly  into  the  meat  puree. 
Put  a  teaspoonful  of  the  white  sauce  into  each  souffle  case,  and  £  fill 
with  the  meat  preparation.  Sprinkle  on  the  top  a  little  finely-chopped 
truffle,  place  the  cases  in  a  baking  tin,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper, 
and  bake  for  15  minutes  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Serve  in  the  cases. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
8  or  10  cases. 

808.— VEAL  STEW  (White).         (Fr.— Blanquette   de 
Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib,  of  fillet,  neck,  loin  or  breast,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  487 

of  flour,  12  preserved  mushrooms,  2  sliced  onions,  a  bouquet-garni, 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  2  cloves,  2  yolks  of  eggs, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  salt  and  pepper. 
Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  about  2  inches  square,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  the  onions,  bouquet-garni  and  peppercorns,  cover 
with  cold  water,  add  a  little  salt  and  the  lemon-juice,  bring  to  the  boil, 
skim  well,  cover,  and  cook  gently  for  2  hours.  Meanwhile  cut  the 
mushrooms  into  slices,  and  warm  them  in  a  little  of  their  own  liquor. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  for  10  minutes 
without  browning.  Remove  the  meat  from  the  stewpan,  strain  i  pint 
of  the  liquor  on  to  the  flour  and  butter,  stir  until  it  boils,  add  the 
mushrooms,  season  to  taste,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  then  cool  slightly. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  cream  together,  add  them  to  the  sauce, 
and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  2  or  3  minutes.  Put  in  the  meat,  allow 
it  to  become  thoroughly  hot,  without  boiling,  then  season  to  taste, 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  33  3d.  to  35.  6d.  with  fillet. 
Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

809. -VEAL,  STEWED.     (Fr.-Ragout  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  the  neck  or  breast  oi  veal,  i  pint  of  milk,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespooniul  of  cornflour  or  flour, 
j  small  onion,  i  blade  of  mace,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  place 
proof  stewing  pot,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add 
the  onion  and  mace,  pour  in  the  milk,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently 
in  the  oven  or  on  the  stove  for  2$  or  3  hours.  A  few  minutes  before 
serving,  knead  the  butter  and  flour  or  cornflour  smoothly  together, 
divide  im«  >  ill  portions,  and  stir  them  into  the  milk.  When  flour 

is  used,  it  must  be  allowed  to  cook  ior  at  least  10  minutes.      Put  the 
meat  on  to  a  hot  dish,  add  the  cream  to   the  sauce,  season  to  taste, 
strain  over  the  meat.     The  sauce  is  never  perfectly  white,  therefore 
it   is  better  to  add  i  or  2   drops  of  caramel  to  make  it  a  paK 
colour. 

Time. — From  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  js.  Sufficient  for  4  or 
5  per- 

8io.-VEAL,  STEWED.      ./->.-  Ragout  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  loin  or  neck  of  veal,  2  or  3  slices  of  bacon,  £  a 

pint  of  shelled  peas,  £  of  a  pint  each  of  turnip  and  carrot  (scooped  out 

i-es  or  cut  into  dice),  i  J  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablcspoonful 

of  tomato  sauce,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-jui.  mace,  a  bouquet 

l>ay-leaf),  pepper  and 
Method.  he  meat  into  cutlets,  and  trim  them  neatly.     Melt 


488  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  fry  the  cutlets  lightly  on  both  sides.  Add 
the  bacon  in  slices,  a  few  trimmings  of  turnip  and  carrot,  the  meat 
trimmings,  mace,  bouquet-garni,  salt  and  pepper,  and  as  much  boiling 
stock  or  water  as  will  -.over  the  whole.  Stew  gently  for  about  2^  hours, 
keeping  the  stewpan  closely  covered.  Cook  the  vegetables  separately, 
and  drain  them  well.  When  done,  remove  the  meat  from  the  stewpan, 
strain  the  gravy,  return  it  to  the  stewpan,  add  the  bacon  cut  into  dice 
tomato  sauce,  lemon-juice,  prepared  vegetables,  and  the  meat.  Season 
to  taste,  re-heat,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  2f-  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

COW-POX,  OR  VARIOLA,  the  vaccine  disease  which  appears  on  the  teats  of  cows,  accompanied  with 
inflammation.  The  vesicles  of  a  blue  or  livid  hue  contain  a  colourless,  somewhat  viscid,  fluid,  com- 
posed principally  of  bioplasm,  which  by  the  medium  of  vaccination  communicates  cow-pox  to  the 
human  subject,  and  acts  as  a  preventive  against  the  more  virulent  forms  of  small  pox.  The  practice 
of  vaccination  owes  its  origin  to  Dr.  Jenner,  a  native  of  Berkeley,  Gloucestershire,  where  he  was  born 
in  1749.  After  studying  under  the  celebrated  anatomist,  John  Hunter,  Dr.  Jenner  settled  in  his 
native  town.  Observing  that  cows  were  subject  to  a  certain  infectious  eruption  of  the  teats,  and  that 
the  persons  who  were  engaged  in  milking  such  cattle  escaped  small-pox,  or  had  it  in  a  less  virulent 
form,  he  made  inquiries  into  the  subject,  the  result  being  the  introduction  of  vaccination  into 
England  in  1796. 

THE  CATTLE  PLAGUE,  OR  RINDERPEST. — This  terrible  disease  is  of  highly  contagious  and  malignant 
type,  attacking  animals  of  the  ox  tribe,  and  usually  proves  fatal.  The  symptoms  are  characterized 
by  great  depression  of  the  vital  powers,  frequent  shivering,  staggering  gait,  cold  extremities,  quick 
and  short  breathing,  drooping  head  and  reddened  eyes,  high  temperature,  the  discharge  of  a  foetid 
secretion  from  the  mouth,  nose,  and  eyes,  and  failure  of  the  heart's  action.  The  attack  is  generally 
of  seven  days'  duration.  The  cattle  plague  originated  in  the  Asiatic  steppes — hence  the  name  by 
which  it  is  sometimes  called,  steppe-murrain — where  millions  of  cattle  are  bred  and  pastured  on  the 
rich  pasturage  of  the  plains.  Various  remedies  have  been  tried  for  curing  the  disease,  but  the  only 
effectual  method  is  "  stamping  out "  the  plague,  by  slaughtering  fhe  infected  cattle,  and  prohibiting 
by  an  Order  in  Council  the  importation  of  animals  from  infected  districts.  It  is  probable  that  the 
disease  known  in  the  Middle  Ages  as  "murrain,"  was  identical  with  the  rinderpest.  It  made  its 
appearance  in  England  in  1865,  when  nearly  300,000  cattle  either  died  of  the  plague,  or  were 
slaughtered  to  prevent  contagion. 

811.— VEAL  TENDONS,  PALESTINE  STYLE.    (Fr.- 
Tendrons  de  Veau  a  la  Palestine.) 

Ingredients. — The  thick  end  of  a  breast  of  veal,  i  quart  of  stock, 
I  glass  of  sherry,  i  onion,  i  small  carrot,  \  a  small  turnip,  a  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  2  cloves,  £  a  pint  of 
Espagnole  sauce  (see  Sauces).  For  the  garnish  :  6  small  artichoke 
bottoms,  £  a  Ib.  of  Jerusalem  artichokes,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  £  an  oz.  of 
butter,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  a  few  white  breadcrumbs,  i  tablespoonful 
of  white  sauce,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  tendons  into  pieces  about  2  inches  square,  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  stock,  wine,  vegetables,  herbs,  pepper- 
corns, cloves,  and  salt,  cook  gently  until  tender  (from  3  to  4 
hours),  then  remove  carefully,  and  press  between  2  dishes  until  cold. 
Strain  the  stock  they  were  cooked  in,  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  and 
boil  rapidly  to  reduce.  Wash  and  peel  the  Jerusalem  artichokes, 
cut  them  into  thick  slices,  boil  until  tender  in  milk  and  water,  then 


MEAT  ENTREES. 


Kabbit  Cutlrts.         j.    K.ibbit  L.mlol  .1:1, 1  Braised. 


Cold  Chicken  and  Veal  Timbales.     2.  Souffles  of  Duck,  with  Cherry 
and  Spinach.     3.  Moulded  Sweetbread,  with  Asparagus. 


34 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  489 

drain,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  artichoke  puree  into  a 
stfwpan  with  the  butter,  white  sauce  and  yolk  of  egg,  season  to  taste, 
and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Warm 
the  artichoke  bottoms,  fill  them  with  the  artichoke  puree,  shaping  the 
mixture  in  the  form  of  a  dome,  or  pyramid,  cover  lightly  with  the 
idd  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
for  10  minutes.  When  the  stock  has  boiled  down  to  a  very  small 
quantity,  add  to  it  the  brown  sauce,  boil,  and  reduce  until  the  arti- 
chokes are  ready  for  the  oven,  then  put  in  the  tendons  to  re 
When  ready,  dish  in  a  circle,  garnish  the  centre  with  the  artichokes, 
pour  the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Note. — Spinach,  green  peas,  or  any  other  suitable  vegetable  may  be  served 
iiiMte;ul  of  artichokes. 

Time.  — 5  to  5*  hours.       Average  Cost,  53.  6d.  to  6s.  6d.,  exclusive  of 
Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

8 1 2. -VEAL  TENDONS.     (Fr.  Tendrons  de  Veau.) 

tendons  of  veal  are  the  cartilaginous  or  gristly  portions  found 

•mity  of  the  Ixmes  towards  the  thick  end  of  a  breast  i«t 
They  may,  of  course,  be  dressed  with  the  joint,  except  when  it  is  r. 
or  baked.     The  tendons  must  first  be  rendered  perfectly  tendd    by 
<-ntle  stewing,  and  afterwards  may  be  dress* 

not  be  lx  •  ly.  but  as  they  are  confined 

pally  to  the  ti  it  of  the  breast,  that  part  alone  shouM  be 

procured.     The  meat   from  which   they  are  removed  may  be  used  for 
purposes  (see  Nos.  798,  799,  800,  801  and  809). 

8 1 3. -VEAL  TENDONS  WITH  VEGETABLES. 

(Fr.— Tendrons  de  Veau  a  la  Jardiniere.) 

Ingredients. — The  thick  half  of  a  breast  of  veal,  thin  rashers  of  1 
J  pint  of  white  stock,  ±  an  oz.  of  meat  glaze,  i  carrot,  i  onion,  $  a 
turnip,  «'i  bouquct-k'arni  ^parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  strips  of  t 

»f  mace,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt.     For  the 
punish  :  peas.  Ivans,  cauliflower,  carrot,  turnip,  etc.,  ±  pint  of  white 

>poonful  of  cream,  salt  and  pej 

Method. — Cut  the  tendon  into  pieces  about  2  inches  square,  and 
each  piece  in  a  thin  slice  <A   bacon.     Cut   the  vegetables  into   thick 
[nil  them  into  a  shallow  stewpan  or  sautepan  with  the  stock,  1 

•eppercorns  and  mace,  lay  on  the  pieces  of  meat,  cover 
>kvery  gently  for  2  or  3  hours.       Kemo  idons, 

r  into  a  small  stewpan,  skim  well,  add  the  meat-glaze,  put 
in  the  tendons,  und.illow  them  to  become  thoroughly  hot, 
with   t  ie  of  vep<  may 

i  all  of  those  cnum  \\ith  the  addition  « 


490         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

other  preferred.  The  cauliflower  should  be  separated  into  small 
sprays,  the  beans  cut  into  short  lengths,  the  turnip  and  carrot  either 
scooped  out  with  a  round  cutter  or  cut  into  dice  ;  all  must  be  separately 
boiled  and  tender,  but  not  broken.  Add  the  cream  to  the  white  sauce, 
and  when  thoroughly  hot,  put  in  the  macedoine  of  vegetables  to  re- 
heat. Dish  the  tendons  on  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes,  pour  the 
sauce  over  them,  and  serve  the  jardiniere  garnish  in  the  centre. 

Time. — From  3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  23.  3d.,  exclusive  of  the 
meat.  Sufficient  for  a  dish  for  7  or  8  persons. 

814.— VEAL  TENDONS,  FRIED.       (Fr.— Tendrons  de 
Veau  Panees.) 

Ingredients. — The  thick  end  of  a  breast   of  veal,    i£  pints  of  stock 

1  onion  sliced,  i  carrot  sliced,  £  a  turnip  cut  into  small  pieces,  2  strips 
of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns, 
egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  salt  and  pepper,  tomato  or  Espagnole 
sauce. 

Method. — Remove  the  meat  from  the  tendons,  and  divide  them  into 
pieces  about  2  inches  square.  Put  them  into  a  stewpanwith  the  vege- 
tables, bouquet-garni,  peppercorns,  stock  and  salt,  and  cook  very 
gently  for  4  hours.  Remove  them  very  carefully  from  the  stewpan. 
press  between  two  dishes  until  cold,  then  trim  them  if  necessary,  coat 
with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned. 

Time. — About  5  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  meat. 
Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

815.— VEAL  TENDONS  FRIED  IN  BATTER. 

(Fr.—  Tendrons  de  Veau  a  1'Horly.) 

Ingredients. — The  thick  end  of  a  breast  of  veal.      For  the   marinade 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  onion,  i  teaspoonful    of    finely-chopped  parsley,  salt 
and  pepper.     For  the  batter:  2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad 
oil,  £  a  gill  of  tepid  water,  the  white  of  i  egg,  salt,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  tendons  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe  ;  when  cold,  divide  the  squares  into  narrow  strips,  place  them 
in  a  deep  dish,  pour  over  the  marinade,  and  allow  them  to  soak  for  at 
least  i  hour.  Drain  well,  dip  each  piece  in  the  batter,  and  fry  in  hot 
fat  until  lightly  browned.  Pile  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  fried  parsley, 
and  serve.  The  batter  should  be  allowed  to  stand  for  some  time  before 
being  used.  The  flour,  salt,  salad  oil  and  water  should  be  mixed 
smoothly  together,  and  the  stiffly- whipped  white  of  egg  added  just 
before  using. 

Time. — 4  to  5  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  2S.  6d.  to  33.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  persons. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEAL  491 

816.— VEAL   WITH    PARSLEY  SAUCE.      (Fr.— Veau 
a  la  Poulette.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  %  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  No.  222, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon -juice,  i  yolk  of  egg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — If  the  meat  is  not  one  compact  piece,  bind  it  into  a  good 
shape  with  tape.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  meat  gently 
until  the  entire  surface  is  lightly  browned,  then  add  the  white  sauce 
and  seasoning  to  taste.  Cover  closely,  simmer  gently  from  2  to  2\ 
hours,  then  take  up  the  meat  and  keep  it  hot.  Strain  and  return  the 
sauce  to  the  stewpan,  add  the  parsley,  lemon-juice,  and  yolk  of  egg, 
stir  until  the  sauce  thickens,  then  pour  it  over  the  veal,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  2\  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  $  or 
6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


RECIPES  FOR  COOKING 


CHAPTER    XVI 

817.—  BEEF  A  LA  MODE.     (Fr.—  Bceuf  a  la  Mode.) 

Ingredients.  —  3  Ib.  of  rump  of  beef,  larding  bacon,  i  quart  of  stock, 
I  glass  of  claret,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  2  carrots,  i  finely- 
chopped  small  onion,  10  button  onions,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon,  2  cloves,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Trim,  bone  and  lard  the  meat,  place  it  in  a  basin  with  the 
wine,  lemon-juice,  chopped  onion,  cloves,  salt,  pepper,  and  bouquet- 
garni,  and  let  it  stand  for  2  hours,  basting  it  frequently.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  drain  the  beef,  and  fry  it  brown,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  lightly  fry  the  button  onions.  Remove  both  from  the  stewpan, 
put  in  the  flour,  and  fry  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour,  then  add 
the  stock  and  the  wine-marinade  in  which  the  meat  was  soaked,  and 
stir  until  boiling.  Replace  the  meat  and  onions,  season  to  taste, 
add  the  carrots  thinly  sliced,  and  cook  gently  for  2^  or  3  hours,  stirring 
and  skimming  occasionally.  When  done,  place  on  a  hot  dish,  strain 
the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  with  little  groups  of  onions  and  carrot. 

Time.  —  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  33.  6d.  Sufficient  for  8 
or  9  persons. 

GOOD  MEAT.—  If  the  animal  when  slaughtered  is  in  a  state  of  perfect  health,  the  meat 
adheres  firmly  to  the  bones.  Beef  of  the  best  quality  is  of  a  deep-red  colour,  and  if  the  animal  has 
reached  maturity  and  been  well  fed,  the  lean  is  intermixed  with  fat,  which  produces  the  mottled 
appearance  characteristic  of  the  finer  qualities  of  beef.  The  juice,  which  is  abundant,  resembles 
claret  in  colour.  The  fat  of  the  best  beef  is  firm  and  wavy,  and  of  the  tint  of  the  finest  grass 
butter,  bright  in  appearance,  neither  greasy  nor  friable  to  the  touch,  but  moderately  unctuous. 

818.—  BEEF,  BAKED.      (Fr.—  BcEuf  cuit  au  Four.) 

Ingredients.  —  2  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef,  about  2  Ib.  of  mashed  potatoes 
2  small  onions,  2  small  carrots,  i  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs, 
salt  and  pepper,  i  pint  of  gravy. 

Method.  —  Remove  the  bones  and  the  brown  outside  parts  of  the  meat, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BKKF  493 

simmer  them  slowly  for  at  least  2  hours,  strain,  season,  and  use  as 
gravy.  Cut  the  meat  into  thin  small  slices,  cook  the  vegetables  and  cut 
them  into  very  thin  slices.  Spread  a  thin  layer  of  mashed  potato  on  t he- 
bottom  of  a  pie-dish,  on  the  top  place  a  few  slices  of  meat,  add  a  little 
carrot  and  onion,  sprinkle  on  some  of  the  herbs,  and  season  well  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Repeat  until  the  dish  is  full,  pour  in  as  much  gravy  as  the 
dish  will  hold,  cover  with  the  mashed  potato,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  until  the  surface  is  well  browTied.  The  potato  should  be  smoothed 
and  shaped  by  means  of  a  knife  to  resemble  as  nearly  as  possible  a 
paste  crust  ;  and  the  appearance  may  be  further  improved  by  brushing 
over  the  top  with  beaten  egg,  or  a  little  milk.  Serve  the  remainder 
of  the  gravy  sr; 

Time. — To  bake,  about  f  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  4d.,  exclusive 
of  the  meat.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  per- 

Fr.  bocuf). — The  quality  of  beef  is  determined  by  variou- 

!.  .iii-l  thf  f<>od  upon  which  the  .iniin.il  h.i>  I  i  K«-H«T.I|  rule,  is  dry 

and  tounh,  ;m •'  r  flavour.     That  of  the  <>x  Mii-hing  and  digestible.     The  flesh 

v  is  also  nutritions,  but  is  less  palatable  than  that  of  th< 

i      The  flesh  of  the  small  sized  breeds  is  much  sw. -t.r  than  tti.it  •  f  tin  larger  kinds.     It 
greatest  perfection  when  the  animal  is  about  4  years  oM. 

819.— BEEF  CAKE.      (Fr.— Gateau  de  Boeuf.) 

Ingredients. — I  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef,  4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  I  small 
onion  chopped  finely,  2  ozs.  of  cooked  ham  or  bacon,   i   teaspoonful 
chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  i  egg,  I  gill  of  stock,  about  2  ozs.  of 
pings,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method.     ( '.rease  a  plain  mould  or  shallow  cake  tin,  put  in  th« 
and  turn  the  mould  round  until  quite  covered  with  the  raspings, 
tin-  butter,  fry  the-  onion  until  slightly  broun,  mince  the  1  bacon 

finely,  and  then  mix  all  thf  ingredients  toget!  ock  if 

thf  inixtu  .    dry.     Then  turn  into  the  prepared  mould, 

faivfully  into  shape,  co\vr  with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake  in  a  m<« 
oven  for  about  45  minutes.  Turn  out  carefully,  and  pour  a  little  ! 
sauce  round. 

Time. — To   bake,   about   45    minutes.     Average   Cost,   6d.,   exclusive 
of  the  meat.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

820.— BEEF,  COLLARED.     (Fr.— Boeuf    epice,) 

Ingredients. — 7  Ib.  of  thin  end  of  the  flank  of  beef,  2  ozs.  of  coarse 
6  ozs.  of  salt,  i  oz.  of  saltpetre,  i  large  handful  of  parsley  minced, 
•••rtspoonf til  of  minced  sage,  a  bunch  of  savoury  herbs,  $  a  teaspoon- 
ful <  >f  pounded  allspice  ;  salt  and  pepper  to  t 

Method. — Choose  tine  t  f,  but  not  too  fat  ;  lay  it  in  a  dish, 

rub  in  the  sugar,  salt  and  saltpetre,  and  let  it  remain  in  the  pickle  for 

k  or  m  days,  turning  and  rubbing  it  every  day.     Then  bone  it. 

f  all  the  grille  and  tlu  m  of  the  m-ide  part,  and  sprinkle 


494  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

it  thickly  with  parsley,  herbs,  seasoning,  in  the  above  proportions, 
taking  care  that  the  former  are  finely  minced.  Roll  the  meat  up  in  a 
cloth  as  tightly  as  possible,  bind  it  firmly  with  broad  tape,  and  boil  it 
gently  for  6  hours.  Immediately  on  taking  it  out  of  the  pot,  put  it 
under  a  good  weight,  without  undoing  it,  and  let  it  remain  until  cold. 

Time. — 6  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  45.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

Note. — During  the  time  the  beef  is  in  pickle,  it  should  be  kept  cool,  and 
regularly  rubbed  and  turned  every  day. 

821.— BEEF  COLLOPS.     (See  Scotch  Collops.) 

822.— BEEF    CROQUETTES.        (Fr.— Croquettes    de 
Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  lean  cooked  beef,  £  a  pint  of  gravy  or  stock, 
£  an  oz.  of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of  flour,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  about  4  ozs.  of  paste, 

1  egg,  vermicelli  or  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Chop  the  meat  very  finely.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  small 
stewpan,  fry  the  onion  slightly,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock,  and 
boil  well.  Now  add  the  meat,  parsley,  and  nutmeg,  season  to  taste, 
and  when  well  mixed  turn  on  a  plate  to  cool.  Roll  the  paste  out  to  the 
thickness  of  foolscap  paper,  cut  it  into  rounds  of  i£  or  2  inches  diameter, 
place  a  little  of  the  meat  mixture  on  one  half,  moisten  the  edges  of  the 
paste,  fold  the  other  half  over,  making  the  croquette  half-moon  or 
crescent  shape,  and  press  the  edges  of  the  paste  together.  Brush 
them  over  with  beaten  egg,  roll  them  in  crushed  vermicelli  or  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  in  hot  fat. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  /d.,  exclusive  of  the 
meat.  Sufficient  for  i  dish. 

823.— BEEF    CROQUETTES.      (Fr.—See    Veal    Cro- 
quettes.) 

824.— BEEF  GALANTINE.     (Fr. -Galantine  de  Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  £  a  Ib.  of  bacon,  6  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs, 

2  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  beef  and  bacon  into  small  pieces,  add  the  bread- 
crumbs, a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  mix  well  to- 
gether. Beat  the  eggs,  add  to  them  the  stock,  and  stir  into  the  dry 
ingredients.  Shape  the  mixture  into  a  short  thick  roll,  tie  it  in  a 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  495 

buttered  pudding  cloth,  boil  gently  in  stock  or  water  for  2  or  2\  hours, 
then  press  until  cold.     Before  serving,  brush  over  with  dissolved  moat 
^Ui/r.  and  decorate  with  creamed  butter,  or  aspic  jelly. 
Time. — To  cook,  from  2  to  2\  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  9d. 


825.— BEEF,  HASHED.     (Fr.— Hachis  de  Boeuf.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef  cut  into  slices,  i  onion  sliced, 
2  ozs.  of  streaky  bacon,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  Spanish  and 
Tomato  sauces  in  equal  proportions. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  add  the  bacon  cut  into  dice,  then  the 
onions,  and  fry  a  light  brown.  Now  lay  in  the  slices  of  meat,  pour  the 
sauces  over,  and  cook  slowly  for  £  an  hour,  without  boiling.  Dish  up 
neatly  with  croutes  of  bread  fried  in  fat  as  garnish. 

Time. — About  £  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  od.  to  is.  oxl. 


826.— BEEF,  HASHED.      (Fr.— Hachis  de  Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef  cut  into  slices,  i  pint  of  stock, 
1 1  ozs.  of  butter,  i^  ozs.  of  beef  dripping,  i  J  ozs.  of  flour,  i  sliced  onion, 

1  small  sliced  carrot,  £  a  sliced  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  -Trim  off  the  brown  outside  parts  of  the  meat,  remove  the 
bones,  and  break  them  into  small  pieces.     Melt  the  dripping  in  a  stew- 
pan,  put  in  the  bones,  trimmings  of  meat,  bouquet-garni,  and  vege- 
tables, fry  until  well  browned,  then  drain  off  the  fat.   Cover  with  c<  Id 
.  add  the  peppercorns  and  a  little  salt,  boil  gently  for  at  least 

2  hours,  then  strain  and  remove  the  fat.     Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
put  in  the  flour,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  a  brown  roux  is  formed, 
when  add  i  pint  of  the  stock  from  the  bones,  and  stir  until  boiling. 
Let  the  sauce  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes,  then  add  seasoning  to 
taste,  and  when  slightly  cooled  lay  in  the  slices  of  meat,  draw  the  sauce- 
side,  cover  closely,  and  let  it  remain  for  about  £  an  hour,  where 

the  contents  will  be  kept  hot  without  boiling.  Garnish  with  croutes  of 
fried  bread,  or  groups  of  turnips  and  carrot  cut  into  dice  or  julienne 
strips,  and  boiled  separately. 

Time. — About  i  hour,  after  the  stock  is  made.  Average  Cost,  is.  4(1., 
to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

827.— BEEF,  CURRIED.    (Fr.— Kari  de  Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  lean  tender  uncooked  beef,  i£  pints  of  stock 
or  water,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  i  dessertspoon- 
ful of  curry-powder,  i  teaspoonful  of  curry-paste,  i  sour  apple,  j 


496  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

small  onions  coarsely-chopped,   i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt, 

4  ozs.  of  rice. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  slices  about  £  an  inch  thick  and  i  inch 
square.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  meat  quickly  and  lightly, 
then  take  it  out  on  to  a  plate,  put  in  the  onion,  flour,  and  curry-powder, 
and  fry  gently  for  10  minutes.  Add  the  stock,  curry-paste,  apple 
sliced,  and  salt  to  taste,  boil,  replace  the  meat,  cover  closely,  and  cook 
gently  for  i£  hours.  Boil  the  rice,  drain  and  dry  thoroughly.  When 
the  meat  is  done,  remove  it  to  a  hot  dish,  season  the  sauce  to  taste, 
add  the  lemon- juice,  and  strain  over  the  meat.  The  rice  should 
be  served  separately. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.     Sufficient  for 

5  or  6  persons. 


828.— BEEF  FRITTERS.      (Fr.— Beignets  de  Boeuf.) 

Ingredients. — J  of  a  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef,  6  ozs.  of  flour,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  oiled  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  tepid  water,  the  whites  of  2  eggs, 
\  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  the  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  a  good 
pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Chop  the  meat  finely.  Mix  the  flour,  tepid  water  and  melted 
butter  into  a  smooth  batter,  add  to  it  the  meat,  herbs,  lemon  rind, 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  lastly  the  stiffly- whipped 
whites  of  eggs.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  drop  in  the  mix- 
ture in  tablespoonfuls,  and  fry  until  golden-brown.  Drain  well,  dish  in 
a  pyramidal  form  on  a  folded  napkin  or  dish-paper,  and  garnish  with 
fried  parsley.  The  mixture  may  be  varied  by  the  addition  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  powdered  sage,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  parboiled  and  finely- 
chopped  onion,  instead  of  lemon-rind  and  nutmeg. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  ex- 
clusive of  the  meat.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons, 

829.— BEEF  OLIVES.     (Fr.— Olives  de  Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. — \\  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats), 
£  of  a  pint  of  either  Espagnole  or  brown  sauce. 

Method. — Remove  all  fat  from  the  meat,  cut  it  into  very  thin  slices, 
about  4  inches  long  and  2  inches  wide,  and  flatten  them  with  a  wet 
cutlet-bat  or  rolling  pin.  Prepare  the  forcemeat  as  directed,  spread 
a  little  on  each  slice  of  meat,  roll  up  tightly,  and  tie  securely  with  twine. 
Have  the  brown  sauce  ready  in  a  stewpan,  bring  it  to  boiling  point, 
put  in  the  olives,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  i  hour.  Remove  the 
strings,  arrange  the  olives  in  2  rows  on  a.  bed  of  mashed  potato,  and 
strain  the  sauce  over. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  497 

Time. — i  hour  to  cook.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  6d.  1033.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

NOTE. — Sausage  meat  may  be  used  instead  of  forcemeat  in  preparing  this 
dish. 

830.-BEEF  ROLLS  OR  OLIVES.    (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats), 
|  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  i\  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  small 
onion  sliced,  a  few  slices  of  carrot,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare,  stuff,  and    bind    the  olives  as  in  the  preceding 

.      Heat  the  butter  in  a  stcwpan,  fry  the  olives  until  their  entire 

surface  is  lightly  browned,  then  remove  them  from  the  stewpan.      Now 

put  in  the  carrot  and  onion,  fry  quickly  for  3  or  4  minutes,  then  sprinkle 

in  the  flour,  fry  brown,  pour  in  the  stock,  and  stir  until  boiling.     Re- 

the  olives  in    the  strwp.in,  add   salt    and   pepper,  cover  with  a 

greased  paper  and  the  lid  of  the  stewpan,  and  simmer  slowly  ior  i£ 

hours,      Remove  il,  .lish  tlu-  olives  on  a  bed  of  mashed  potato, 

-  ,  and  strain  it  over  them. 

Time.  -Alxmt  j  hours.  Average  Cost,  js.  to  js.  4d.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons. 

831.— BEEF,  RIB  BONES  OF. 

Ingredients. — Rib  bones,  i  carrot,  i  turnip,  i  onion  finely  chopped, 
\  of  a  pint  of  good  gravy,  salt  and  pepper,  mashed  potato. 

Method. — The  bones  should  have  on  them  a  slight  covering  of  i 
Peel  the  carrot  and  turnip,  scoop  out  small  pea  shapes  with  a  > 
cutter,   or,   if  more  convenient,  cut  them  into  dice.     Saw  the 
into  pieces  3  inches  long,  place  them  in   a   stewpan   with    the    turnip, 
carrot  and   onion,   add   the  gravy,  and  season  to  taste.     Stew  very 
gently  until  th  !>les  are  tender,  and  serve  piled  within  a  border 

of  mashed  potato. 

Time.— About  J  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  exclusive  of  the  bones,  4d. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


832. -BEEFSTEAK,    GRILLED 

Hngredients. —  \\   Ib.    of    steak    cut    off    the    fillet,  rump,   sirloin  or 
tenderloin,   [  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method,     (.rilling  :  simple  process  in  cookery,  the  sucr 

whuh  depends  almost   entirely  upon   the  fire  being  clear    bright    and 
oin   smoke.      A  handful  of  salt  \vill   a-^ist    in   Clearing  the  fire; 
; -rinkled  <>n  the  top  .1   lew   minutes  before  requu 


498         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

use.  Before  using  the  gridiron  it  should  be  heated  and  the  bars  well 
rubbed  with  paper,  and  afterwards  with  fat  or  suet,  to  prevent  the  meat 
sticking  to  them.  The  chief  point  in  grilling  is  to  quickly  harden  the 
outside  of  the  meat,  in  order  to  keep  in  the  flavour  and  goodness,  and 
this  result  is  achieved  more  quickly  if  the  meat  be  brushed  over  with 
salad-oil  or  warm  butter  before  grilling.  The  steak  should  be  turned 
frequently,  by  means  of  steak-tongs,  or  failing  these  a  fork,  which 
must  not,  however,  be  thrust  into  the  lean  part  of  the  meat  to  make 
holes  through  which  the  juices  of  the  meat  would  escape.  A  steak 
cooked  to  perfection  should  be  very  dark  on  the  outside,  and  the  inside 
red  and  full  of  gravy.  When  done,  spread  the  butter  lightly  on  the 
surface,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  on  a  very  hot  dish. 
If  liked,  the  dish  may  be  garnished  with  watercress  or  scraped  horse- 
radish. Oyster  sauce,  grilled  or  baked  tomatoes,  or  fried  onions,  are 
frequently  served  with  beefsteak  ;  they  must  always  be  cooked  first, 
as  the  shortest  possible  time  must  be  allowed  to  elapse  between  the 
steak  leaving  the  grill  and  being  served. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes,  for  steaks  of  average  thickness.  Average 
Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient,  for  4  persons. 

DIFFERENT  SEASONS  FOR  BEEF. — The  Scots  breed  of  oxen  is  esteemed  the  first  in  quality.  Each 
county  has  its  particular  season,  and  the  London  and  other  large  markets  are  supplied  by  those  coun- 
ties where  animals,  from  local  circumstances,  are  in  the  best  condition.  Thus,  the  season  in  Norfolk 
and  Suffolk,  from  whence  the  Scots  come,  begins  about  Christmas  and  ends  about  June,  their 
place  being  then  taken  by  grass  fed  oxen.  A  large  quantity  of  most  excellent  beef  is  sent  from  Scot- 
land, and  some  of  the  best  London  butchers  are  supplied  from  this  source. 

833.— BEEFSTEAK,  FRIED. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  salt  and  pepper,  butter  or  frying- 
fat. 

Method. — Although  this  method  of  cooking  steaks  is  not  to  be  re- 
commended, it  is  often  more  convenient  than  grilling,  and  with  proper 
care  the  tender  juicy  qualities  of  the  steak  may  be  preserved,  but  it 
is  less  easily  digested,  in  consequence  of  the  fat  in  which  it  is  fried. 
Make  the  butter  or  fat  hot  in  a  frying-pan,  have  sufficient  to 
barely  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  put  in  the  steak,  fry  one  side 
quickly,  then  turn  and  fry  the  other  side.  When  the  entire  surface 
is  browned  and  hardened  the  cooking  should  be  done  a  little  more 
slowly,  to  avoid  burning  the  fat  in  the  pan,  the  steak  being  repeatedly 
turned.  The  steak  may  be  served  with  a  little  butter  spread  lightly 
on  the  surface,  or  with  gravy.  To  make  this,  drain  off  all  the  fat, 
add  a  little  boiling  water  to  the  sediment  in  the  frying-pan,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  boil  up,  skim,  strain,  and  serve  round  the  dish 
or  separately  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — From  iotoi5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  is,  3d.  to  is.4d- 
per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  4  to  5  persons, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  499 

834.— BEEFSTEAK  AND  FRIED  POTATOES. 

(Fr.— Bifteck  aux  Pommes  de  Terre  Frites.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  good  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  %  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice 
cayenne,  salt,  4  or  5  potatoes,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Knead  the  butter,  parsley,  lemon-juice,  and  a  little  cayenne 
together,  spread  the  mixture  smoothly  on  a  plate,  and  put  it  aside, 
to  become  firm  and  cold.  Peel  the  potatoes,  cut  them  across  into 
slices,  and  dry  thoroughly  in  a  cloth.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  fat, 
put  the  potatoes  into  a  frying-basket,  lower  them  into  the  fat,  and 
cook  until  tender.  Stand  the  basket  and  potatoes  on  a  plate  or  baking 
sheet  until  the  fat  boils  up  again,  then  replace  them  in  the  pan,  and 
fry  for  2  or  3  minutes  to  make  them  crisp.  Meanwhile,  grill  the  steak 
over  a  clear  bright  fire  (see  p.  497),  and  stamp  the  maitrc  d'hotel 
butter  into  rounds,  by  means  of  a  small  cutter.  Serve  the  steak 
on  a  hot  dish,  garnished  with  the  potatoes,  with  the  pats  of  butter  placed 
on  the  top  of  it. 

Time. — 7  to  10  minutes  to  cook  the  steak,  according  to  thickness. 
Average  Cost,  js.  6d.  to  2s.  lod.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

835.— BEEFSTEAK  PIE.     (Fr.— Pate   de   Boeuf.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  beefsteak,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  £  a  teaspoonful  of   pepper,  the    yolk  of    an  egg,    puff 
or  short  crust  paste. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  thin  slices,  about  3  inches  in  1 
and  width,  but  of  no  particular  shape.  Mix  the  flour,  salt,  and  pepper 
together  on  a  plate,  dip  the  slices  of  meat  in  the  mixture,  and  place 
them  in  a  pie-dish,  which  should  be  sufficiently  small  to  allow  the 
meat  to  be  well  raised  in  the  centre,  and  thus  give  to  the  pie  a  desirable 
plump  appearance.  Sprinkle  the  rest  of  the  seasoning  mixture  be 
the  layers  of  meat,  and  pour  in  enough  boiling  water  to  J  fill  the 
dish.  Make  the  paste  as  directed,  roll  it  out  to  a  suitable  thickness, 
invert  a  pie-dish  of  the  same  size  as  the  one  filled  with  meat,  in  the 
centre  of  the  paste,  and  cut  round,  leaving  a  margin  of  about  £  of  an 
inch.  Line  the  edge  of  the  dish  with  the  trimmings,  for  paste  is 
always  lighter  when  not  re-rolled.  Put  on  the  cover,  ease  it  well 
over  the  raised  meat,  for  which  purpose  the  |  of  an  inch  margin  was 
allowed,  moisten  and  press  the  edges  together,  and  notch  them  at 

ir  intervals.    Make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  top,  decorate  with 
a,   and    brush  over   with  the   yolk   of   egg.       The   pie   must   be 

1  in  a  hot  oven  until  the  paste  has  risen  and  set,  afterwards  it 
must    be    looked     more     slowly,    otherwise    the   paste    will    be    over- 

!  Ix'foro  the  meat   is  done.      Before  serving,  pour  in  through  the 


5oo  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

hole  in  the  top  either  a  little  beef  gravy,  or  hot  water  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper. 

Time. — To  bake  the  pie,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

Note. — If  preferred,  the  meat  may  be  partially  cooked  before  covering 
with  paste.  In  which  case  it  should  be  closely  packed  in  a  pie-dish  or  baking- 
dish,  covered  with  an  inverted  dish  or  tin,  and  gently  cooked  in  the  oven 
for  about  i£  hours.  A  saucepan  is  not  to  be  recommended  for  this  pre- 
liminary process,  for  unless  the  meat  is  closely  packed  it  is  apt  to  curl  up 
and  lose  its  shape.  The  meat  must  be  transferred  to  a  cold  pie-dish,  and  al- 
lowed to  cool  slightly  before  being  covered  with  paste. 

836.— BEEFSTEAK  AND  KIDNEY  PIE.       (Fr.~ Pate 
de  Bceuf  et  de  Rognon.) 

Ingredients. — The  same  as  the  preceding  recipe,  with  the  addition 
of  2  sheep's  kidneys,  or  \  a  Ib.  of  ox  kidney. 

Method. — Cut  the  kidney  into  thin  slices  across,  place  I  on  each 
slice  of  meat,  roll  up  tightly,  and  put  the  rolls  on  end  in  the  piedish. 
In  other  respects  proceed  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  "  Beefsteak 
Pie." 

Time.— About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

837.— BEEFSTEAK  AND  OYSTER  PIE.      (Fr.— Pate 
de  Boeuf  aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — The  same  as  the  preceding  recipe,  substituting  2  dozen 
sauce  oysters  for  the  kidney. 

Method. — Beard  the  oysters,  and  blanch  the  beards  in  the  oyster 
liquor,  which  must  be  re-heated,  seasoned,  strained  and  added  to  the 
gravy  in  the  pie  just  before  serving.  Place  an  oyster  on  each  slice 
of  meat,  roll  up  tightly,  and  put  the  rolls  on  end  in  the  piedish. 
See  "Beefsteak  Pie  "  for  directions  for  making. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  6d.,  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

838.— BEEFSTEAK  AND  POTATO  PIE.       (Fr.— Pate 
de  Bceuf  et  de  Pommes  de  Terre.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  beefsteak,  potatoes  to  fill  the  dish,  i  small 
onion  parboiled  and  finely-chopped,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  teaspoon - 
ful  of  salt,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  short  crust  paste. 

Method. — Peel  the  potatoes,  and  cut  them  into  thick  slices.  Cut 
the  meat  into  thin  slices,  about  2  inches  long  and  an  inch  wide.  Mix 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    HHK1  50! 

the  flour,  salt  and  pepper  together  on  a  plate,  dip  the  slices  of  meat 
in  the  mixture,  and  roll  them  up  tightly.  Line  the  bottom  of  the  pie- 
dish  with  slices  of  potato,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  with 
rolls  of  meat,  and  add  a  little  onion,  but  use  it  very  sparingly  unless 
the  flavour  is  much  liked.  Repeat  until  the  dish  is  full,  add  boil- 
ing water  to  £  fill  the  dish,  and  cover  with  paste  (see  PastesX  Bake 
hours  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and,  before  serving,  pour 
a  little  hot  beef  gravy,  or  hot  water  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
through  the  hole  in  the  top. 

Time. — To    bake,    about    2    hours.      Average    Cost,    2S.    to    2S.    2d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

839.— BEEF  AU  GRATIN.     (Fr.— Bceuf   au  Gratin.N 

Ingredients. — }  of  a  Ib.  of  cold  beef,  very  finely  minced,  i  oz.  of  butter 
pint  of  stock,  i  small  Spanish  onion  sliced,  i  small 

onion,  a  !•  A  tticts  <>t  carrot,  a  l>ouquet -garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay  lea t  . 
salt  and  pepper,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Break  up  the  bones,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  add  the 
trimmings  off  the  meat,  the  small  onion,  bouquet-garni,  carrot,  and  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  with  cold  water,  simmer  gently 
for  i  hour,  then  strain  arid  add  stock  or  water  to  make  up  |  of  a  pint. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  fry  the  Spanish  onion  until  lightly- 
browned,  then  add  the  flour  and  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  it  acquires 
a  nut-brown  colour.  Put  in  the  stock,  stir  until  boiling,  season  to 
jo  minutes,  then  strain  and  add  to  the  meat. 

Fill  well -buttered  scallop  shells  with  the  preparation,  cover  rather 
thickly  with  breadcrumbs,  and  add  a  few  bits  of  butter.  Kike  in  a 
modi-rate  ovi-n  until  the  surface  is  nicely  browned,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d. 

840.— BEEFSTEAK    PUDDING.      (Fr.  — Ponding    de 
Boeuf  a  I'Anglaise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of   beefsteak,    i    tablcspoonful    of    flour,   i 

•onful  of  salt,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,   i   Ib.  of  suet  paste. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  thin  slices,  about  3  inches  in  length  and 

width,  but  not  necessarily  uniform  in  shape.     Mix  the  flour,  salt  and 

:   together  on  a  plate,  and  dip  each  slice  in  the  mixture.     Make 

the  paste  as  directed,  cut  off  about  ^  of  it,  and  put  it  aside  for  the  lid, 

roll  out  the  remainder  to  the  size  of  the  basin,  which  must  be  prc- 

\vell  greased.     Line  the  basin  with  the  paste,  put  in  the  meat, 

sprinkle  the  rest  of  the  seasoning  mixture  between  the    layers,  and 


502         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

leave  spaces  to  admit  water,  thus  preventing  the  pudding  be- 
coming too  dry.  Three-quarters  fill  the  basin  with  boiling  water, 
which  extracts  less  of  the  juices  of  the  meat  than  cold  water,  put  on 
the  cover,  and  moisten  and  seal  the  edges.  If  the  pudding  is  to  be 
boiled,  tie  over  a  scalded  and  floured  pudding  cloth.  If  steamed,  cover 
with  a  greased  paper.  Let  the  water  be  quite  boiling,  put  in  the 
pudding,  and  boil  for  3^  hours,  or  steam  for  4  hours. 

Time. — From  4  to  4^  hours  to  cook.  Average  Cost,  2s.  4d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

841.— BEEFSTEAK     AND     KIDNEY     PUDDING. 

(Fr. — Pouding  de  Bceuf  et  de  Rognon.) 

Ingredients. — The  same  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  with  the  addition 
of  2  sheep's  kidneys,  or  £  a  Ib.  of  ox  kidney. 

Method. — Cut  the  kidney  into  thin  slices  3  inches  long  and  2  inches 
wide,  dip  them  in  the  seasoning  mixture,  place  one  on  each  slice  of 
meat,  roll  up  tightly,  and  place  the  rolls  on  end  in  the  basin.  In  other 
respects,  proceed  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  "  Beefsteak  Pudding." 

Time. — 4  to  4^  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

842,-BEEF    PALATES,  TO  DRESS.     (See  Ox  Palates 
Stewed.) 

843.— BEEF      QUENELLES      EN     CHAUDFROID. 
(Fr. — Quenelles  de  Bceuf  en   Chaudfroid.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  beefsteak,  £  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce, 
J  of  a  pint  of  Tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces),  £  of  a  pint  of  aspic  jelly, 
(see  Aspic),  £  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  2  eggs,  2  olives,  2  anchovies, 
salt  and  pepper.  For  the  panada  T  oz.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  £  of  a 
pint  of  stock.  For  the  garnish,  hard-boiled  white  of  egg,  coarsely- 
chopped  aspic  jelly,  and  salad. 

Method. — Make  the  quenelles  according  to  recipe  for  veal  quenelles, 
pounding  the  fillets  of  anchovy  and  the  stoned  olives  with  the  meat. 
Shape  and  poach  the  quenelles,  and,  when  cold,  coat  6  of  them  with 
the  Espagnole  sauce,  in  which  4  or  5  sheets  of  gelatine  have  been  dis- 
solved, and  6  with  tomato  sauce,  which  must  also  be  stiffened  with 
gelatine.  Decorate  the  quenelles  with  small,  fancifully-cut  pieces 
of  white  of  egg,  and  pour  over  them  the  nearly  cold  liquid  aspic  jelly. 
Arrange  the  quenelles  on  a  bed  of  crisp  salad,  alternating  the  colours, 
intersperse  and  garnish  with  small  tufts  of  endive  and  chopped  aspic 
jelly,  and  serve  cold. 

Time. — 2  or  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  ^s.  Sufficient  for  a  dish  of  12 
quenelles. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  503 

844.-BEEF,  PICKLE  FOR. 

Ingredients. — 4  quarts  of  cold  water,  i  Ib.  of  common  salt,  6  ozs.  of 
brown  sugar,  £  oi  an  oz.  of  saltpetre. 

Method. — Boil  the  above  ingredients  together  for  10  minutes,  skim- 
ming frequently.  Strain  into  an  earthenware  vessel  ;  when  cold, 
put  in  the  meat,  and  let  it  remain  in  the  pickle  for  10  days.  If  not 
completely  immersed,  it  must  be  turned  every  day. 

845.— BEEF,  PRESSED. 

Ingredients. — Brisket  of  beef  salted  according  to  recipe  844,  i  onion, 
i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  10 
peppercorns,  glaze. 

Method. — Wash  the  beef  well  in  cold  water,  put  it  into  a  saucepan 
with  sufficient  warm  water  to  cover  it,  boil  up,  skim  well,  add  the 
prepared  and  sliced  vegetables,  bouquet-garni,  and  peppercorns, 
and  simmer  gently  until  the  bones  can  be  easily  removed.  Take 
the  meat  out  of  the  saucepan,  and  having  removed  the  bones,  press 
it  between  2  boards  or  dishes  until  cold.  Brush  over  with  glaze  before 
serving. 

846.— BEEF,  DRY  PICKLE  FOR. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  common  salt,  2  ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  $  oi  an  oz. 
of  saltpetre,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  black  pepper. 

Method. — Pound  the  above  ingredients  in  a  mortar  until  reduced 
to  a  fine  powder.  Rub  them  well  into  the  meat,  which  must  be  turned 
and  rubbed  every  day  for  7  or  8  days,  or  until  it  is  sufficiently  salt. 

Note. — Before  applying  dry  pickling  or  salting  ingredients,  it  is  a 
to  rub  the  meat  all  over  with  common  salt,  and  allow  it  to  drain  for  24  hours. 

847.— BEEF,  SPICED. 

Ingredients. — 10  or  12  Ib.  of  pickled  beef  (see  recipe  No.  844), 
i  dessertspoonful  of  black  pepper,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ginger,  i  salt- 
spoonful  of  powdered  cloves,  i  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  £  a 
salt  spoonful  of  ground  mace,  i  glass  of  claret  or  port  wine. 

Method. — Drain  the  beef  from  the  pickle,  mix  together  the  above 
ingredients  (except  the  wine),  and  sprinkle  them  over  the  entire  surface 
of  the  meat,  which  must  then  be  rolled,  bound,  and  skewered  into 
a  good  shape.  Put  the  meat  into  an  earthenware  stewpot  with  a  lid, 
pour  over  it  the  wine,  cover  the  top  of  the  vessel  with  2  or  3  thick- 
nesses of  greased  paper,  and  put  on  the  lid.  As  no  other  liquid  than 
the  wine  is  added,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  steam  generated 
should  be  kept  within  the  vessel,  and  for  this  purpose  the  lid  is  frequently 
ah  a  paste  of  flour  and  water.  The  meat  should  be  cooked 


504  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

slowly  in   the  oven    for   about    4  hours,  and  then  pressed  between 
2  boards  or  dishes  until  cold. 

848.— BEEF,  SPICED.    (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 10  or  12  Ib.  of  thin  flank  of  beef,  \  an  oz.  of  saltpetre, 
£  an  oz.  of  bay-salt,  \  of  an  oz.  of  black  pepper,  \  of  an  oz.  of  powdered 
allspice,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground 
cloves,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace,  3  ozs.  of  common  salt,  3  ozs. 
of  brown  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  any  bones,  skin,  and  gristle,  and  rub  the  beef 
well  with  the  bay-salt  and  saltpetre,  previously  reduced  to  a  powder 
and  mixed  together.  On  the  following  day  mix  the  pepper,  allspice, 
ginger,  cloves  and  mace  together,  and  rub  them  well  into  the  meat. 
Add  the  common  salt  and  sugar  to  the  brine  in  the  vessel,  turn  and 
baste  the  meat  for  a  fortnight,  then  wash  it  in  cold  water,  roll  and 
bind  securely  with  string,  and  boil  in  the  usual  manner.  The  aitch- 
bone, round,  or  any  other  part  may  be  spiced  instead  of  the  flank, 
and  the  time  allowed  lengthened  or  shortened  to  suit  individual  taste. 

BARON  OF  BEEF. — The  name  given  to  two  sirloins  not  cut  asunder.  It  was  a  favourite  dish  with 
our  ancestors,  and  is  still  served  at  banquets  of  a  special  character. 

849. — BEEF  SAUSAGES.     (Fr. — Saucissons  de  Bosuf.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  i  Ib.  of  beef  suet,  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  allspice,  salt  and  pepper,  sausage-skins,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Chop  both  beef  and  suet  as  finely  as  possible,  add  the  all- 
spice, salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  mix  well.  Press  the  mixture  lightly 
into  the  prepared  skins,  prick  well,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  cooked  and 
well-browned.  When  sausage  skins  are  not  available,  the  mixture 
may  be  shaped  into  small  cakes,  which  should  be  floured  before  frying. 

Time. — To  fry,   10  to   15   minutes.       Average  Cost,  2s.  6d. 

850.-    BEEF,  HUNG,  TO  PREPARE. 

Ingredients. — To  a  piece  of  meat  weighing  from  12  to  16  Ib.  allow 
\  a  Ib.  of  bay-salt,  £  a  Ib.  of  coarse  brown  sugar,  i  oz.  of  saltpetre, 
£  an  oz.  of  allspice,  £  an  oz.  of  peppercorns. 

Method. — The  meat  should  be  hung  in  a  cool  dry  place  as  long  as 
is  consistent  with  safety  to  make  it  tender,  but  it  must  not  be  allowed 
to  decompose  in  the  least.  Pound  the  above  ingredients  in  a  mortar 
until  reduced  to  a  powder,  and  when  the  meat  is  ready,  rub  the  entire 
surface  with  the  preparation,  going  carefully  between  the  muscles 
and  under  the  flaps  of  the  meat.  Let  it  be  turned  every  morning  for 
14  days  ;  at  the  end  of  that  time  roll  it  tightly  in  a  cloth,  and  hang 
ft  in  a  warm  (not  hot )  dry  place  for  3  weeks.  When  a  smoky  flavour 
is  desired,  the  beef  should  be  hung  where  it  would  receive  the  smoke, 


BEEF   ENTREES. 


i.   Fillets  of  Beef  (Parisienne).          2.  Fillets  of  Beef  (Pompadour). 
3.   Fillets  of  Beef  (Vien noise). 


ENTREES. 


I.  Sweetbreads  in  Aspic  Border.     2.  Beef  Roll,  or  Galantine. 
3.  Curried  Beef  and  Rice. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   BEEF  505 

but  not  the  heat,  from  a  wood  fire.     Meat  treated  in  this  manner  may 
be  kept  for  a  long  time. 

The  pickle,  after  being  boiled  and  well  skimmed,  may  be  used  again. 

851.— BEEF,  BOILED.     (Fr.— Bceuf  Bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — Salt  beef,  turnips,  carrots,  onions,  peppercorns,  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  suet  dumplings,  if  liked. 

Method. — The  aitchbone,  round,  and  brisket  are  all  suitable  for  boi1- 
ing.  In  boiling  meat  a  certain  proportion  of  the  nutritive  qualiti(S 
escape  into  the  water,  and  the  liquor  should  therefore  be  utilized  for 
soup,  when  it  is  not  too  salt  for  the  purpose.  With  this  end  in 
the  liquor  should  be  reduced  to  the  smallest  possible  quantity  by  using 
a  boiling-pot  just  large  enough  to  contain  the  joint,  with  barely  suffi- 
cient water  to  cover  it.  The  meat  must  l>c  skewered,  or  bound  with 
tape  into  a  compact  form.  The  water  in  which  it  is  immersed  should 
be  warm  unless  the  meat  bo  very  salt,  then  cold  water  is  IK  <. 
to  extract  some  of  the  salt  (see  Notes  on  Boiling  Meat,  p.  406).  In 
either  case,  it  should  be  heated  gradually  to  boiling  point,  and  well 
skimmed.  With  a  joint  weighing  from  10  to  14  lb.,  an  allowance 
should  be  made  of  2  or  3  medium-sized  onions,  2  large  or  4  small  carrots, 
i  large  or  2  small  turnips,  and  12  peppercorns.  The  onions  should  be 
kept  whole,  the  turnips  cut  in  thick  slices,  and  the  carrots  lengthwise 
into  j  or  4  pieces.  They  should  be  added  after  the  liquor  has 
well  skimmed.  When  suet  dumplings  form  part  of  the  dish,  they 
should  be  put  into  the  liquor  £  an  hour  In  :  ing.  the  liquor 

bein-  previously  brought   to  the  boil.       To  serve,  replace    the    tapes 
and  ske\\vr>  with  one  or  2    silver  sk  >ur  some  of   the  liquor 

round  the  dish,  and  garnish  with  the  VCL 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes  to  each  lb.   (see  p.  490).     Average 
Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  per  lb.     Seasonable  in  winter. 

\.  TION  or  SALT  ON  MEAT.— Salt  when  applird  to  meat,  extracts  the  juices  in  l.irp-  quan- 
tities.    The  salt,  and  water-  .  a  saturated  solution  or  brine,  which  is  absorU'd  into  the 
f  the  meat,  and  being  strongly  antiseptic  preserves  it  from  putrefa.  tion.      In  add: 
the  fibres  of  the  muscles,  and  excludes  the  air  from  th< 

•  at.     The  as:  n  of  saltpetre,  or  nr  re.it«>r  than  that  of  common  salt, 
an'l  if  iiM-d  too  fredv  n-ndrrs  the  meat  to  which  it   is  applied  very  hard.     In   small    jju.ii.' 

-  the  antiseptic  action  of  salt,  and  preserves  the  colour  o:  h   the  action  ol  salt 
-TOW     Salt  and  saltpetre  preserve  the  fibre  of  meat  from  drrav.  I. tit  deprive  it  to  a  con- 
siderable degree  of  the  nutritive  juices  ;  these  antiseptics  should,  therefore,  be  used  in  moderation 

Soyer's  Recipe  for  Preserving  the  Gravy  in  Salt  Meat,  when  it  is  to  he  served 

cold.      Fill  j  tubs  with  cold  water,  into  whi<  h  throw  a  few  pounds  of 
rough  ice  ;   when  the  me.it  is  done,  put  it  into  one  of  the  tubs  . 

let  it  remain  i  minute,  then  take  it  out,  and  put  it  into  the  other 

tub.     Fill   the  first   tub  again  with   water,  and  continue   this  process 

for  about  2O  minutes  ;  then  set  it  upon  a  dish,  and  let  it  remain  until 

•old.     When  cut,  the  fat  will  be  as  white  as  possible,  and  the 

of  the  gravy  will  have  been  saved.     If  there  is  no  ice,  spring 

water  will  answer  the  same  purpose,  but  will  require  to  be  more  frc- 

tly  changed. 


5o6  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


852.— BEEF      FILLETS,       MIGNONS,       NOISETTES, 
TOURNEDOS  and  GRENADINES. 

A  fillet  of  beef  is  the  undercut  of  a  sirloin,  and  its  weight  varies  from 
7  Ib.  to  1 1  Ib.  Only  a  part  of  it  can  be  cut  into  the  small  round  pieces 
known  respectively  as  fillets,  mignons,  noisettes,  tournedos  and  grena- 
dines. As  a  rule  mignons  are  cut  rather  thin  and  small,  and  tournedos 
sometimes  slightly  oval,  but  otherwise  the  varieties  enumerated  are 
identical  except  in  name,  and  any  directions  given  for  dressing  one 
variety  is  applicable  to  all.  In  the  Metropolis  the  usual  charge  for 
fillet  of  beef  is  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  As  nearly  the  whole  of  it  can  be 
utilized,  when  sliced  for  grilling,  it  is  almost  as  economical  as  many 
lower-priced  joints  which  contain  a  large  amount  of  bone;  but  only  a 
part  of  it  can  be  used  for  fillets,  and  they  are  therefore  expensive. 
The  lean  parts,  which  are  too  small  to  cut  into  fillets,  maybe  made  into 
a  pie,  pudding,  sausages,  or  "  Filets  de  Bceuf  Viennoise,"  No.  882;  it 
would  be  a  waste  of  material  to  put  meat  of  such  good  quality  into  the 
stock-pot.  The  fillets  should  always  be  cut  across  the  grain  of  the  meat, 
they  are  usually  from  2  inches  to  2^-  inches  across,  and  £  an  inch 
to  |  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 

853.— BEEF  FRIZZLED. 

Ingredients. — Slices  of  cold  meat,  fat  of  beef,  cold  potatoes,  i  finely 
chopped  onion,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cook  some  pieces  of  fat  very  slowly  until  as  much  liquid 
fat  as  is  required  is  obtained,  then  strain  and  return  to  the  frying-pan. 
Make  quite  hot,  put  in  the  meat,  fry  quickly  until  lightly  browned 
on  both  sides,  then  remove  and  keep  hot.  Put  in  the  onion,  fry  until 
nicely-browned,  then  add  the  potatoes,  and  season  carefully  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Press  them  well  down  in  the  pan,  fry  until  well  browned, 
then  turn  and  fry  the  other  side.  Arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  meat 
on  the  top,  and  serve  with  a  little  gravy. 

Time. — About  25  minutes. 

854.— BEEF  GOBBETS. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  lean  tender  beef,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  i 
small  carrot  shredded,  \  a  small  turnip  shredded,  i  strip  of  celery 
shredded,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns, 
2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,  sippets  of  hot  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  dice,  put  into  a  stewpan  with 
just  sufficient  hot  water  to  cover,  and  simmer  very  gently  for  40 
minutes.  Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  and  now  add  it,  with  the  carrot, 
turnip  and  celery,  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan.  Tie  the  bouquet- 
garni,  peppercorns,  cloves  and  mace  in  muslin,  place  in  the  stewpan, 
add  boiling  water  to  barely  cover  the  whole,  and  salt  to  taste.  Con- 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  507 

tinue  to  cook  slowly  for  40  minutes  longer,  adding  more  water  if  neces- 
sary. Remove  the  muslin  and  its  contents,  and  serve  the  gobbets 
on  the  sippets  of  toast,  which  must  be  previously  arranged  on  a  hot 
dish. 

Time. — About  i  hour  20  minutes,  to  stew  the  beef.     Average  Cost, 
1.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

855.— BEEF  GOBBETS.     (Another  Way.) 

Ingredients. — i  *lb.  of  lean  tender  beef,  \\  ozs.  of  butter,  i  shallot 
finely-chopped,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  mushroom  ketchup,  walnut  liquor  or  some  sharp  sauce, 
breadcrumbs,  ^  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Cut  the  meat  into  small  dice,  and  sprinkle  rather  liber- 
ally with  grated  nutmeg,  lemon-rind,  salt  and  pepper.  Heat 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  meat  until  lightly  browned,  then 
season  and  sprinkle  over  the  shallot  and  parsley,  and  cook  a  few 
minutes  longer.  Cover  with  gravy,  stock  or  water,  stew  as  gently  as 
possible  for  i  hour  and  add  the  ketchup.  Turn  into  a  buttered  bak- 
ing-dish, cover  with  breadcrumbs  highly  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  add  a  few  bits  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  nicely 
browned,  and  serve  in  the  dish  with  some  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

856.— BRISKET  OF  BEEF.     (Fr.— Poitrine  de  Bceuf 
a  la  Flamande.) 

Ingredients. — 6  Ib.  of  brisket  of  beef,  slices  of  bacon,  2  carrots, 
i  onion,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leat),  2  cloves,  i  blade 
of  mace,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  10  peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper, 
i  pint  of  brown  sauce,  Xo.  233,  stock  or  water. 

Method. — Cover  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  with  slices  of  bacon,  put  in 
the  meat,  lay  slices  of  bacon  on  the  top  of  it,  and  add  the  bouquet- 
garni,  cloves,  mace,  allspice,  peppercorns  and  a  few  vegetable  trimmings. 
Nearly  cover  with  stock  or  water,  cook  very  gently  for  5  or  6  hours, 
adding  more  stock  or  water  to  replace  that  which  boils  away,  and  taking 
care  to  keep  the  stewpan  closely  covered.  Make  the  brown  sauce  as 
directed,  using  the  stock  from  the  stewpan  when  none  other  is  available. 
Cut  the  vegetable  into  dice,  cook  in  stock  or  water  until  tender,  and 
add  them  to  the  sauce.  The  meat  should  be  glased,  garnished  with  a 
little  vegetable,  and  served  on  a  hot  dish. 

Time. — 5  or  6  hours.    Average  Cost,    45.  6d.    Seasonable  at  any  time. 

857.  -BROWN  STEW.     (Fr.— Ragout  brune.) 

Ingredients.— i  J  Ib.  of  neck  of  beef,  i  J  ozs.  of  butter  or  fat.  i£  ozs.  of 


5o£  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

flour,  i  onion  sliced,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  i  pint  of  water,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  vinegar,  salt,  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  pour  over 
them  the  vinegar,  let  them  remain  for  at  least  i  hour,  turning  two  or 
three  times,  then  drain  and  dry  well.  Cut  some  of  the  carrots  into 
julienne  strips,  and  put  aside  until  wanted.  Heat  the  butter  or  fat  in  a 
stewpan,  fry  the  meat  quickly  until  lightly-browned,  then  take  it 
out,  and  put  in  the  onion  and  the  remainder  of  the  carrot  and  turnip. 
Fry  brown,  then  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  until  nicely-browned, 
and  add  the  water.  Boil  up,  stirring  meanwhile,  simmer  gently 
for  15  minutes,  then  cool  slightly  and  put  in  the  meat.  Season  to 
taste,  and  cook  as  slowly  as  possible  for  2^  hours  (see  "  Notes  on  Stew- 
ing ").  Arrange  the  meat  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over, 
and  garnish  with  the  shredded  vegetables,  which  must  be  previously 
cooked  until  tender  in  a  little  stock  or  water. 

Time. — To  stew,  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  3  or 
4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

858.— BUBBLE   AND    SQUEAK. 

Ingredients. — Thin  slices  of  cold  roast  or  boiled  beef,  cold  mashed 
potatoes,  cold  greens  of  any  kind,  i  onion  shredded,  butter  or  dripping, 
salt  and  pepper,  vinegar  if  liked. 

Method. — Melt  a  little  butter  or  fat  in  a  frying-pan,  put  in  the  meat, 
fry  quickly  until  lightly-browned  on  both  sides,  then  remove  and  keep 
hot.  Put  in  the  onion,  fry  until  brown,  add  the  potatoes  and  greens, 
and  season  to  taste.  Stir  until  thoroughly  hot,  then  add  a  little  vinegar, 
if  liked,  and  turn  on  to  a  hot  dish.  Place  the  slices  of  meat  on  the  top, 
and  serve. 

Time. — About    20   minutes. 

859.— BEEF  BRAISED.       (Fr.— Boeuf  Braise.) 

Ingredients. — 4  to  6  Ib.  of  fresh  brisket  of  beef,  2  carrots,  i  turnip, 
2  or  3  strips  of  celery,  i  or  2  leeks,  £  a  Ib.  of  button  onions,  a  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns,  salt,  stock,  a  few 
slices  of  bacon.  For  the  sauce:  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  stock. 

Method. — Turn  about  a  £  of  a  pint  each  of  carrot  and  turnip  with  a 
large-sized,  pea-shaped  cutter,  and  put  them  and  the  button  onions 
aside.  Slice  the  remainder  of  the  carrot  and  turnip,  the  leeks  and 
the  celery,  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  just  large  enough  to  contain 
the  meat.  Lay  the  meat  on  the  top  of  the  vegetables,  cover  with  slices 
of  bacon,  add  the  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns,  a  little  salt,  and  stock 
or  water  to  nearly  cover  the  vegetables.  Put  on  a  close-fitting  lid, 
and  cook  as  gently  as  possible  for  4  or  5  hours.  Meanwhile  heat  the 
butter  in  a  smaller  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  slowly  until 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  509 

well-browned,  and  then  add  the  stock,  using  that  from  the  larger 
stewpan  when  none  other  is  available.  Stir  until  boiling,  season  to 
taste,  boil  for  at  least  10  minutes,  then  strain  and  use.  The  carrot  and 
turnip  dice  and  button  onions  must  be  cooked  separately  in  weil- 
flavoured  stock  until  tender,  and  they  may  be  added  to  the  sauce, 
or  arranged  in  groups  round  the  dish  on  which  the  meat  is  served. 

Time. — From  4  to  5  hours.  Average  Cost,  6s.  Sufficient  for  18  or 
20  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

860.— BEEF,  MINCED. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  £  ozs.  of  butter, 
I  onion  coarsely- chopped,  i  small  carrot,  £  of  a  small  turnip,  a  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones,  and  the  brown  outside  parts  of  the 
meat,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  herbs,  peppercorns  and 
tables,  cook  them  slowly  for  about  2  hours,  then  strain.  Have  ready 
the  brown  roux  (or  thickening),  made  by  frying  together  the  flour  and 
butter  until  brown,  add  to  it  the  hot  stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  then  season 
to  taste,  and  boil  gently  for  20  minutes.  Chop  the  meat  finely,  or 
cut  it  into  very  small  dice,  put  it  into  the  sauce,  cover  closely,  draw 
the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  stove,  and  let  it  remain  for  £  an  hour, 
in  order  that  the  flavour  of  the  sauce  may  be  imparted  to  the 
Before  serving,  the  mince  may  be  flavoured  with  mushroom  ketchup, 
walnut  liquor,  H.irvey's  or  other  sauce,  but  these  addition-  mu>t  l>e 
determined  l»v  individual  taste.  The  mince  may  be  i  1  with 

fried  potatoes  or  croutons  or  poached  eggs  ;  if  served  as  a  luncheon 
dish,  it  may  be  sent  up  in  a  border  of  mashed  potato.  For  another 
method  of  preparing  the  sauce,  see  "  Hashed  Beef,"  No.  826. 

Time. — About   i   hour,  after  the  stock  is  made.     Average  Cost 
exclusive  of  the  meat.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

861.— BEEF,  POTTED. 

Ingredients.— 2  Ib.  of    lean    beef,  2  ozs.  of  butter,   i   tablespoonful  of 
water,  a  few  drops  of  anchovy-essence,  a  good  pinch  each  of  po\\ 
allspice,  cloves,  and  mace,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. -Cut    the    meat    into   small    pieces,  put    it    into   a  jar  with 
the  water,  sprinkle  on  the  cloves,  mace,  allspice,  and  a  little  salt  and 
r.     Cover  with  a  close-fitting  lid  and  3  or  4  thicknesses  of  but- 
tered paper,  and  place  the  jar  either  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  v 
or  in  the  oven  in  a  baking-tin  containing  boiling  water,  which  must 
laced  as  it  reduces.     Cook  gently  for  about  3  hours,  then  pound 
well  in  a  mortar,  adding  the  gravy  the  meat  has  yielded,  and  a  few 
by  degrees.     Season   to   taste,  rub  through  . 
nd    i  «>\  <  r  wii  h  i  1. Titled  but 


5io  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — To  cook,  about  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  small  pots. 

862. -BEEF,  ROAST.     (Fr.—  Boeuf  roti.) 

Ingredients. — Beef,  beef-dripping. 

Method. — See  notes  on  "  Roasting."  The  joints  usually  roasted 
are  the  sirloin,  ribs,  and  aitchbones,  and  sometimes  the  round. 
When  cooking  a  large  sirloin,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  cut  off  the  thin  end, 
and  salt,  cook,  and  press  it  like  brisket  of  beef  (see  p.  845).  When 
the  joint  to  be  roasted  consists  of  i  or  2  ribs  of  beef  off  a  large  animal, 
it  may  be  made  compact  and  easier  to  carve  by  removing  the  bones, 
and  skewering  or  tying  the  meat  into  a  round  form.  The  usual  ac- 
companiments to  roast  beef  are  gravy  and  horseradish,  or  horseradish 
sauce  (see  No.  198). 

863.— BEEF,  ROLLED.          (Fr.— Boeuf  Farci,  Sauce 
Piquante.) 

Ingredients. — 5  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  2  glasses  of  port,  an  equal  quantity 
of  vinegar,  forcemeat,  No.  396,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  pounded  allspice, 
piquante  sauce,  No.  265,  red  currant  jelly. 

Method. — Pour  the  wine  and  vinegar  over  the  meat,  let  the  prepara- 
tion remain  for  2  days,  basting  freqently  meanwhile,  and  turning  once 
at  least.  Drain  well,  flatten  slightly,  cover  with  forcemeat,  roll  up 
tightly,  and  bind  with  tape.  Place  the  roll  in  a  baking-dish,  add  the 
allspice  to  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  was  marinaded,  and  pour  the 
whole  into  the  baking-dish.  Cook  gently  for  about  i  hour,  basting 
frequently.  Serve  with  piquante  sauce  and  red  currant  jelly,  or,  if 
preferred,  substitute  brown  sauce  or  good  gravy. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  fillet  of  beef  from  is.  id. 
to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  12  or  more  persons.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

864.— BULLOCK'S   HEART,  STUFFED  AND  BAKED 

(Fr. — Coeur    de    Boeuf  Farci.) 

Ingredients. — A  bullock's  heart,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats), 
fat  for  basting,  £  a  pint  of  good  stock,  red  currant  jelly. 

Method. — Wash  the  heart  in  several  waters,  cut  away  any  cartilage 
or  gristle  there  may  be  at  the  base,  remove  the  lobes  and  the  membrane, 
separating  the  cavities  inside  the  heart.  Drain  and  dry  the  heart 
thoroughly,  make  the  forcemeat  as  directed,  and  put  it  inside  the  heart, 
cover  the  base  with  a  greased  paper  to  keep  in  the  forcemeat,  and  tie 
round  securely  with  tape  or  twine.  Have  ready  in  a  deep  baking  tin 
3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  fat,  put  in  the  heart,  baste  it  well,  and  repeat 
the  basting  frequently  during  the  3  hours  it  must  be  allowed  to  cook 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  511 

in  a  moderate  oven.  Half  an  hour  before  serving  remove  the  paper,  in 
order  that  the  base  of  the  heart  may  brown.  Have  the  stock  ready 
boiling,  transfer  the  heart  to  a  HOT  dish,  and  keep  it  as  HOT  AS  POSSIBLE. 
Drain  the  fat  from  the  tin,  sprinkle  in  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  pour 
in  the  BOILING  stock,  mix  well  with  the  sediment  in  the  tin,  bring  to 
the  boil,  and  strain.  Serve  with  red  currant  jelly,  a  little  gravy  poured 
round  the  dish,  and  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — To  cook,  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  35.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

865.— BULLOCK'S  HEART,  BAKED.  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — A  bullock's  heart,  onion  stuffing  (see  Forcemeats), 
fat  for  basting,  brown  gravy  or  brown  sauce,  apple  sauce. 

Method. — Proceed  as  directed  in  the  previous  recipe,  substituting 
onion  forcemeat  for  the  herb  farce. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  9d.  to  2s.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

866.— CANNELON  OF  BEEF.  (Fr.— Cannelon  de  Bceuf). 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cooked  beef  finely-chopped,  £  a  Ib.  of  cooked  or 
raw  ham  or  bacon  finely-chopped,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed 
herbs,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  a  pinch  of  grated 
nutmeg,  i  large  or  2  small  eggs,  salt  and  pepper,  gravy. 

Method.— Mix  the  beef,  ham  or  bacon,  herbs,  lemon-rind,  nutmeg, 
and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  well  together,  and  moisten 
with  beaten  egg.  Form  into  a  short  thick  roll,  enfold  in  greased 
paper,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  nearly  i  hour.  Remove  the 
paper,  place  the  roll  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  over  and  round  a  little 
good  gravy  made  from  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  meat. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  50  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.,  in  addition 
to  the  cold  beef.  Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

867.— CANNELONS  OF  BEEF.          (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  cooked  beef  finely-chopped,  £  of  an  oz.  of 
butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  a  little  gravy  or  stock,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  salt  and 
pepper,  puff  paste,  i  egg,  vermicelli,  frying  fat. 

Method.— Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook, 
lor  ;  or  4  minutes,  put  in  a  ]  of  a  pint  of  slock,  and  stir  until  boiling. 
I'ut  in  the  meat,  parsley,  herbs,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  stir  over  the 
fire  and  add  as  much  gravy  or  stock  as  is  necessary  to  moisten  the  whole, 
but  let  the  mixture  be  rather  stiff.  Spread  on  a  plate  until  cold,  then 
form  into  cork-shaped  pieces,  and  brush  the  ends  over  with  beaten 
Koll  the  paste  out  very  thinly,  and  cut  it  into  2 \  inch  squares. 
Enclose  a  roll  of  meat  in  each  piece  of  paste,  coat  with  egg  and  crushed 


512         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

vermicelli,  and  fry  in  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat.     Drain  well,  and  serve 
garnished   with   crisply-fried   parsley. 

Time. — To  fry,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d.,  in  addition 
to  the  meat.  Sufficient — Allow  2  or  3  to  each  person.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 

868.— CHATEAU   BRIAND  STEAK.      (Fr.— Chateau- 
briand  grille.) 

Ingredients. — A  double  fillet  steak,  not  less  than  i£  inches  in  thickness, 
salad-oil  or  melted  butter. 

Method. — Beat  the  fillet  a  little,  trim  it,  brush  over  with  salad-oil 
or  warmed  butter,  sprinkle  on  a  little  pepper,  and  let  it  remain  i 
hour  before  cooking.  Grill  over  a  clear  fire,  and  serve  with  maitrc 
d'hotel  butter  and  potato  straws,  or  with  gravy,  demi-glace,  tomato, 
or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — To  cook  12  minutes.     Average  Cost, is.  2d.  to  is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

869.— CORNED  BEEF.     (Fr.— Bceuf  sale.) 

Ingredients. — Pickled  round  of  beef, 

Method. — The  beef  may  be  bought  ready  pickled,  or  pickled  and,  if. 
liked,  afterwards  smoked  according  to  directions  given  on  pp.  503,  504. 
Put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  sufficient  warm  water  to  cover  it  (see  "  Notes 
on  Boiling  ")  boil  up,  and  afterwards  simmer  very  gently  until  done. 
If  required  for  immediate  use,  allow  it  to  remain  in  the  water  until 
cold,  as  this  will  improve  the  flavour  and  render  the  meat  more  juicy, 
but  it  will  not  keep  fresh  quite  so  long. 

Time. — To  cook,  8  or  10  Ib.,  about  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  icd. 
per  Ib. 

870.— COW  HEEL,  BOILED. 

Ingredients. — i  cow-heel,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  I  dessertspoon- 
ful of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  heel,  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  cover  with  cold 
water,  and  cook  gently  for  2  or  3  hours.  Fry  the  flour  and  butter 
together,  but  do  not  let  them  brown,  strain  on  to  them  £-  of  a  pint  of 
the  liquor  in  which  the  cow-heel  is  cooking,  stir  until  boiling,  simmer 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  parsley,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
When  sufficiently  cooked,  remove  the  bones,  arrange  the  pieces  of 
meat  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  over. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4  per- 
sons. 

871.— COW  HEEL,  FRIED.    (Fr.— Pied  de  Bceuf  frit.) 

Ingredients. — i    cow-heel,    i    tcaspoonful   of   finely-chopped   parsley, 


JOINTS. 


r.-Sirloin  of  Beef.         a.-Boiled  Beet.         3 .-Leg  of  Mutton          4.-Roast  Ribs  of  Beef. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  513 

the-  grated  rind  of  \  a  lemon,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  flour,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  frying 
fat. 

Method. — Wash  the  cow-heel,  and  simmer  it  gently  in  stock  or  water 
for  about  3  hours,  or  until  the  bones  can  be  easily  separated  from  the 
meat.  Remove  the  bones,  press  the  meat  between  2  plates  until  cold, 
then  cut  it  into  pieces  i£  inches  square.  Mix  the  flour,  salt  and  pepper 
together  on  a  plate;  beat  the  egg,  and  add  to  it  the  parsley  and  lemon- 
rind.  Dip  each  piece  of  meat  in  the  flour  mixture,  coat  thickly  with 
•ss  in  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned  in  a  deep  pan  of 
hot  fat.  Arrange  neatly  on  a  folded  napkin  or  dish-paper,  iiarn^h 
with  fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  piquante,  tomato,  or  other  suitable 
sauce. 

Time. — 3^  hours.      Average  Cost,   is.  3d.  to  is.  lod.     Sufficient    for  4 

"IIS. 

872.— CURRY  OF  COLD  BEEF.     (Fr.— Rechauffe   de 
Bceuf   en    Kari.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef,  i  pint  of  stock,  i|  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  tablcspoonful  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  curry-powder,  i  teaspoonful 
of  curry-paste,  i  sour  apple,  2  onions  coarsely-chopped,  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice,  salt,  4  ozs.  of 

Method.  Put  the  bones  and  brown  outside  parts  of  the  me.it  into 
a  saucepan,  cover  with  eold  water,  and  boil  for  at  .  then 

strain  and  use.  Cut  the  meat  into  ^lurs  about  £  an  in<  h  thick  and 

1  ini  h  square.      Melt    the    butter    in    a  stewpan.  try  the    onio: 

2  or  3  mil.  tn  add  the  enrrv  ;  id  Hour,  and    fry  gently 
for  5  minutes.  Add  the  stock,  curry-paste,  sliced  api 

stir  until  the  sauce  boils,  and  simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour.  Now  put 
in  the  meat,  cover  closely,  draw  the  stewpan  aside  to  prevent  the 
contents  boiling,  and  let  it  remain  £  an  hour  for  the  meat  to  become 
impregnated  with  the  flavour  of  the  sauce.  Arrange  the  meat  in  a 
pyramidal  form  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  season  the  sauce  to 
add  the  lemon-juice,  and  strain  over  the  meat.  Serve  the  riee 

ly. 

Time. —  ij  hours.     Average  Cost,  <>d.  of  t In- 

sufficient for  4  or  5  persons. 

873. -EXETER  STEW. 

Ingredients.-    j  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  i£  pints  of  water,  ij  ozs.  of  dripping 
ij  ozs.  of  flour,  2  or  3  onions,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  salt  and 
pepper.     For  t he  savoury  balls  :  4  ozs.  of  flour,  i|ozs.  of  finely-chopped 
,    laMespoonful   of   finely-chopped   }  j>oonfiil   of 

poud  oonful  of  salt,  ±  of  a  teaspoonfnl  of 

Kikii).'.  pnud.  "infill  of  i 

S 


514  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Remove  all  the  fat  from  the  meat,  cut  the  meat  into  8  or 
10  pieces,  put  them  into  a  stewing- jar  with  the  vinegar,  and  place  the 
jar  in  a  cool  oven.  Make  the  fat  hot  in  a  frying-pan,  fry  the  sliced 
onions  and  flour  until  brown,  add  the  water,  boil  up,  and  pour  it  over 
the  meat  in  the  jar.  Season,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  either 
in  the  oven  or  on  the  stove  for  3  hours.  Mix  the  ingredients  for  savoury 
balls  together,  add  water  to  bind  these  into  a  stiff  mixture,  and  separ- 
ate into  12  balls.  About  40  minutes  before  serving,  bring  the  stew 
to  boiling  point  ;  drop  in  the  balls,  and  simmer  for  40  minutes.  To 
serve  :  pile  the  meat  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  gravy  over 
and  arrange  the  balls  neatly  round  the  base. 

Time. — From  3^  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

874.— FILLETS  OF  BEEF,  SMALL,  RICHMOND  STYLE 
(Fr.—  Filets  Mignons  a  la  Richmont.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  24  preserved 
mushrooms,  2  truffles,  salt  and  pepper,  lemon-juice,  Madeira  sauce. 

Method. — Cut  the  fillet  into  6-7  slices  of  even  size  and  thickness,  trim 
each  neatly;  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Melt  i  oz.  of  butter 
in  a  saute-pan  ;  when  hot,  put  in  the  fillets  and  fry  them  on  one  side, 
then  turn  them,  and  cover  the  fried  side  with  finely-chopped  mush- 
rooms, seasoned  with  a  little  sauce  and  lemon-juice.  Place  the  re- 
mainder of  the  butter  on  top,  and  cover  with  a  buttered  paper.  Put 
the  pan  in  the  oven,  and  cook  gently  for  another  10  minutes.  Take 
up  the  fillets  and  range  them  on  a  hot  dish,  place  a  slice  of  truffle  on 
the  top  of  each,  in  the  centre  of  the  mushroom  puree,  pour  enough 
hot  Madeira  sauce  round  the  base  of  the  dish,  and  serve  hot. 

Average  Cost,  45.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Time. — 15  to  30 
minutes. 


875.— FILLETS  OF  BEEF,  TRIANON  STYLE. 

(Fr.—  Noisettes  de  Filets  a  la  Trianon.) 

Ingredients. — 2  to  2^1b.  of  fillet  of  beef,  £  of  a  pint  of  sherry,  4  table 
spoonfuls  of  sour  cream,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  fried  croutons,  meat  glaze. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  plump  round  fillets,  put  them  on 
a  dish  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour  over  them  the  sherry, 
cover,  and  let  them  remain  for  2  hours,  turning  them  occasionally. 
Drain  the  fillets,  and  dry  them  well  in  a  cloth.  Heat  the  butter  in 
a  saute-pan,  skim  well,  then  put  in  the  fillets  and  fry  them  quickly 
and  lightly,  as  they  should  be  served  rather  underdone.  Pour  off 
the  butter,  put  into  the  saute-pan  £  a  gill  of  sherry  used  for  marinading 
the  fillets,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  dissolved  meat  glaze,  and  reduce  to  about 
£  the  original  quantity.  Have  ready  the  bread  croutons  corresponding 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  515 

in  size  and  number  with  the  fillets,  and  fry  them  golden-brown  either  in 
hot  fat  or  the  butter  used  for  frying  the  fillets.  Brush  one  side  of 
them  over  with  meat  glaze,  place  a  fillet  on  each,  and  arrange  neatly 
on  a  hot  dish,  pour  a  little  of  the  reduced  sauce  round  the  dish,  add 
the  sour  cream  to  the  remainder,  re-heat  quickly,  put  a  tablespoonful 
on  each  fillet,  and  serve. 

Average  Cost,  55.     Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

Time. — To  marinade,  2  hours.     To  cook  10  minutes. 

876. -FILLETS  OF  BEEF,  A  LA  POMPADOUR. 

(Fr. — Filets  de  Boeuf  a  la  Pompadour.) 

Ingredients. — 1|  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  £  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce, 
3  ozs.  of  butter,  2  tomatoes,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt,  cayenne. 

Method. — Cut  the  beef  into  rather  thick  round  fillets  of  equal  size, 
cut  the  same  number  of  rounds  of  fat  about  i  inch  in  diameter,  also 
an  equal  number  of  slices  of  tomato.  Mix  the  parsley,  lemon-juice, 
cayenne,  and  \  the  butter  smoothly  together,  spread  the  preparation 
on  a  plate,  and  put  it  aside  to  become  very  cold  and  firm.  Cook  the 
rounds  of  fat,  and  warm  the  slices  of  tomato  in  the  oven.  Heat  the 
remainder  of  tin-  butter  :  a  saute-pan,  and  fry  the  fillets  quickly, 
browning  them  on  both  sides.  Place  a  slice  of  tomato  on  each  fillet, 
and  a  round  of  fat  on  the  tomato.  Dish  neatly  on  a  bed  of  mashed 
potato,  either  in  a  circle  or  in  2  rows,  and  just  before  serving  place  a 
small  pat  of  the  maitre  d'hotel  butter  on  each  fillet,  and  pour  the 
Espagnole  sauce  round  the  dish. 

Time. — About  45  minutes  to  prepare  and  cook.  Average  Cost,  js.  yd. 
to  35.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

877.— FILLETS  OF  BEEF  A  LA  GARIBALDI. 

(Fr.— Filets  de  Boeuf  a  la  Garibaldi.) 

Ingredients.— 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  2  ozs.  of  beef  marrow,  thin 
of  luun  or  bacon,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg,  potato  border,  macaroni  cro- 
quettes, tomato  or  piquante  sauce,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  2  large 

t  rut  ties. 

Method.  -Cut  the  meat  into  round  fillets  2  inches  across  and  about 

£  of  an  inch  in  thickness.     Cut  half  as  many  slices  of  truffle,  rounds  of 

ham  or  bacon,  and  thin  rounds  of  marrow  as  there  arc  fillets,  and  M.im  h 

the  marrow.     Pound  the  lean  trimmings  of  the  meat,  add  the  rem.und'T 

.  the  yolk  of  the  egg,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  a  seasoning  of 

salt  and  pepper,  and  pass  the  mixture  through  a  wire  sieve.     Spread  a 

little  of  this  farce  on  half  the  fillets,  cover  with  a  slice  of  marrow,  add 

a  little  more  of   the  farce,   then   the   trutt  a  little  farcr.   and 

the  rounds  of  ham  or  bacon.     Spread  a  little  farce  on  the  remain- 


516         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

ing  fillets,  lay  them  on  the  top  of  the  others,  and  press  lightly  together. 
Cover  the  surface  with  a  thin  layer  of  farce,  brush  over  with  white  of 
egg,  and  sprinkle  liberally  with  chopped  truffle.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
saute-pan,  fry  the  fillets  without  turning  for  a  few  minutes,  then  cover 
with  a  buttered  paper,  and  finish  cooking  in  the  oven.  Serve  on  a 
border  of  mashed  potato,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  with  nicely- 
prepared  macaroni  croquettes. 

Time. — To  cook,  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  43.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

878.— FILLETS  OF  BEEF  A  LA  BEAUFFREMONT. 

(Fr. — Filets  de  Bceuf  a  la  Beauffremont.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  grated  cheese,  a  few  fine  strips  of  truffle,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  meat  glaze,  stock,  f  of  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  No.  281,  £  of  a 
pint  of  Madere  Sauce,  No.  255,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  fillet  into  rounds  about  £  an  inch  thick  and  2^- 
inches  in  diameter.  Season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  coat  them 
with  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  Blanch  the  macaroni,  drain  it  well,  replace 
in  the  stewpan,  cover  with  well-flavoured  stock,  and  boil  until  tender. 
Drain  and  return  to  the  stewpan,  stir  in  the  cheese  and  \  a  pint  of 
tomato  sauce,  and  keep  hot  until  required.  Add  the  Madere  Sauce  and 
glaze. to  the  remainder  of  the  tomato  sauce,  and  boil  gently  until 
required.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  put  in  the  fillets,  and  fry 
quickly  until  done.  Arrange  the  fillets  in  a  close  circle  on  a  hot  dish, 
place  the  macaroni  in  the  centre,  garnished  with  shredded  truffle, 
and  pour  the  sauce  round. 

Time. — To  fry  the  fillets,  6  to  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  45.  6d.  to  53. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

879.— FILLETS  OF  BEEF  A  LA  GENOISE. 

(Fr. — Filets  de  Bceuf  a  la  Genoise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  3  or  4  ozs.  of  marrow,  i£  ozs.  of 
butter,  meat-glaze,  \  a  pint  of  turned  potatoes,  a  little  finely-chopped 
parsley,  potato  border,  -§  of  a  pint  of  Genoise  Sauce,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Cut  the  fillet  into  £-inch  slices,  which  afterwards  cut  into 
rounds  about  2|  inches  in  diameter,  and  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Turn  the  potatoes  with  a  large-sized,  pea-shaped  cutter, 
parboil  them,  and  afterwards  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned,  or 
finish  cooking  in  the  oven  with  a  little  butter.  Cut  the  marrow  into 
rather  thin  rounds  a  fourth  the  size  of  the  fillets,  blanch  and  broil  them, 
and  keep  hot  until  required.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saut6-pan,  fry  the  fillets 
quickly  until  nicely  browned  on  both  sides,  then  brush  them  over  with 
meat-glaze.  Arrange  in  a  close  row  on  a  bed  of  mashed  potato,  place 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   BEEF  517 

a  round  of  marrow  on  each  fillet,  strain  the  Genoise  Sauce  over,  garnish 
with  groups  of  potato,  over  which  sprinkle  the  parsley,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  fry,  6  to  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  45.  to  43.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

880.— FILLETS  OF  BEEF  A  LA  ROSSINI. 

(Fr.— Filets  de  Boeuf  a  la  Rossini.) 

Ingredients. —  2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  £  a  Ib.  of  chickens'  livers,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  ozs.  of  foie  gras,  slices  ot  truffle,  i  finely-chopped  shallot, 
i  tablcspoonful  of  brown  sauce,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil,  meat- 
glaze,  demi-glace  sauce,  No.  242,  salt  and  pepper,  fried  croutes  of 
bread. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  rounds  2|  inches  in  diameter  and  £  an 
inch  thick.  Wash,  dry  and  slice  the  liver.  Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a 
saute-pan,  fry  the  shallot  slightly,  add  the  liver,  and  toss  over  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes.  Drain  off  the  butter,  pound  the  liver  in  a  mortar 
with  the  foie  gras,  the  brown  sauce,  and  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper  until  smooth,  then  pass  through  a  wire  sieve.  Heat  the  remain 
ing  oz.  of  butter  and  the  salad-oil  in  the  saute-pan,  fry  the  fillets  quickly 
until  browned  on  both  sides,  then  take  them  up  and  cover  one  side  of 
them  with  the  liver  farce.  Brush  over  with  meat-glaze,  place  on  the 
prepared  croutes,  and  make  thoroughly  hot  in  the  oven.  Lay  a  slice 
of  truffle  on  the  top  of  each  fillet,  arrange  them  neatly  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  the  demi-glace  sauce  round,  and  ser 

Time. — To  fry  the  fillets.  5  to  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  53.  to  55.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

88 1.— FILLETS    OF    BEEF,    LARDED.      (Fr.— Petits 
Filets  de  Boeuf  Piques.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  2$  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  larding  bacon,  3  ozs.  of  butter 
£  of  a  pint  of  either  Espagnole  or  demi-glace  sauce,  24  button  onions, 
glaze. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  round,  even-sized  fillets  about  £  an  inch 

in  thickness,  and  lard  them  on  one  side  in  close  rows.     Heat  2  ozs, 

of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  put  in  the  fillets,  fry  the  under  side  for  5 

minutes,  then  transfer  the  pan  to  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and  cook 

for  i<»  minutes  longer,  basting  well  during  the  time.      In  the  meantime 

melt  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter  in  a  small  strwpiin,  and  fry  the  onions 

brown,   and   just   before  serving  mix   with    them    2   tablespoonfuls  of 

cither    I.SJM    ;iole   or  demi-glace  sauce.     Brush    the    fillets   over   with 

them  in  a  circle  on  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  serve 

'ions  in  the  centre,  and  pour  round  the  sauce. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  48.  nd.  to  55.  Sufficient  for/ 
or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


5i8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

882.— FILLETS  OF  BEEF,  A  LA  VIENNOISE. 

(Fr. — Filets  de  Boeuf,  a  la  Viennoise.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  tender  beef,  2^  ozs.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of 
Espagnole  sauce  (see  Sauces),  i  whole  egg,  i  white  of  egg,  2  onions, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
mixed  herbs,  nutmeg,  cayenne,  salt,  pepper  and  flour. 

Method. — Pass  the  meat  twice  through  the  mincing  machine,  add 
to  it  the  herbs  and  parsley,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of 
cayenne,  and  mix  with  i  egg.  Divide  the  mixture  into  8  pieces,  shape 
them  into  round  fillets,  and  dredge  them  lightly  with  flour.  Cut  the 
onion  ACROSS  into  slices,  remove  and  reserve  8  of  the  large  outer  rings, 
and  chop  the  remainder  finely.  Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
fry  the  chopped  onions  lightly,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  Espagnole 
sauce,  season  to  taste,  and  simmer  for  20  minutes.  Melt  the  remaining 
i£  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  and  fry  the  fillets.  Dip  the  rings  of 
onion  into  flour,  then  into  white  of  egg,  again  into  flour,  and  fry  in 
deep  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Dish  the  fillets  with  a  little  of  the 
stewed  onion  on  the  centre  of  each,  garnish  with  the  fried  rings  of 
onions,  and  pour  round  the  remainder  of  the  Espagnole  sauce. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

883.— FILLET  OF  BEEF  WITH  TOMATOES. 

(Fr.— Filet  de  Boeuf  aux  Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  6  or  8  small  tomatoes,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  %  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  i  moderate-sized  onion  (sliced),  i  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  beef  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  and  bind  or  skewer  the  fillet  into  a  good  shape.  Heat  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  fillet,  and  fry  it  until  the  entire  surface 
is  well  browned,  then  add  the  onion,  parsley,  herbs,  and  £  a  saltspoonful 
of  pepper,  cover  closely,  and  let  the  meat  cook  AS  SLOWLY  AS  POSSIBLE 
for  2  hours,  basting  frequently.  Boil  up  the  stock,  mix  the  flour 
smoothly  with  a  little  cold  stock  or  water,  pour  on  to  it  the  hot  stock, 
return  to  the  saucepan,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  and  £  an  hour  before 
serving  pour  it  into  the  stewpan  containing  the  meat.  The  tomatoes 
may  be  plainly  baked  or  stuffed  with  either  mushrooms  or  meat  farce 
(see  stuffed  tomatoes).  When  the  meat  is  cooked,  remove  the  strings 
or  skewers,  place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  garnish  with  the  tomatoes. 
To  the  gravy  add  seasoning  to  taste,  deepen  the  colour  by  adding 
a  few  drops  of  caramel  browning,  Lemco,  or  a  piece  of  meat  glaze,  and 
strain  into  a  sauceboat. 

Time. — 24  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  6d.  Sufficient  for  8  or  10 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  519 

884.— FILLET  OF  BEEF,  LARDED.        (Fr.— Filet  de 
Boeuf  Pique.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef  cut  in  i  piece,  larding  bacon, 
£  a  pint  of  stock,  £  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  onions, 
i  large  carrot,  i  small  turnip,  2  or  3  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  10  peppercorns,  glaze. 

Method. — Skewer  the  fillet  into  a  good  shape,  and  lard  it  in  close 
rows  with  strips  of  bacon  about  2  inches  in  length.  Put  the  butter, 
sliced  vegetables,  herbs,  and  peppercorns  into  a  stewpan,  place  the 
fillet  on  the  top  of  them,  and  fry  for  £  an  hour,  then  add  stock 
to  nearly  cover  the  vegetables,  and  replenish  as  it  becomes  reduced. 
Cover  the  fillet  with  a  buttered  paper,  put  on  the  lid,  and  cook  slowly 
for  about  2  hours,  basting  frequently.  When  cooked,  brush  over 
with  glaze,  and  put  it  into  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  for  the  bacon 
to  crisp.  Strain  the  liquor  from  the  stewpan,  add  to  it  the  brown  sauce, 
boil  up,  and  serve  in  a  sauce-boat.  Garnish  with  tomatoes,  mush- 
rooms, olives,  or  fancifully-cut  turnip  and  carrot. 

Time. — 2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  43.  6d.  to  53.  6d.  Sufficient,  3  Ib. 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

885.— ROAST   FILLET   OF    BEEF.         (Fr.— Filet   de 
Boeuf  roti.) 

Ingredients. — 4  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  £  of  a  pint  of  beef  gravy, 
or  demi-glace  sauce,  horseradish  sauce.  For  the  marinade  :  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a  pinch  of 
ground  cloves. 

Method. — Tie  the  meat  into  a  good  shape,  place  it  on  a  dish,  pour  over 
the  marinade,  and  let  it  remain  in  it  for  3  hours,  turning  and  basting 
frequently.  Have  ready  a  sheet  of  stout,  well-greased  paper,  drain 
away  halt  the  liquid  part  of  the  marinade,  fold  the  remainder  and  the 
meat  in  the  paper,  and  fasten  the  ends  securely.  Roast  or  bake  for 
i£  hours,  basting  frequently  with  butter  or  dripping.  Half  an  hour 
before  serving  remove  the  paper,  and  when  the  meat  is  nicely  browned 
brush  it  over  with  meat  glaze  and  place  it  on  a  hot  dish.  The  demi- 
glace  sauce  may  be  poured  round  the  dish  or  served  separately,  the 
horseradish  sauce  being  served  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — 1£  hours  to  cook.  Average  Cost,  6s.  Sufficient,  4  Ib.  for  8 
or  9  persons. 

MEMORANDA. — The  proper  management  of  the  fire  is  of  first  importance  in  roasting.  To 
insure  a  satisfactory  result,  it  is  essential  to  maintain  a  radiant  fire  during  the  operation.  If  the 
article-  to  be  dressed  is  thin  and  delicate  a  small  fire  is  sufficient,  but  if  the  joint  be  large  the  fire 
should  fill  the  grate.  Meat  must  never  be  put  down  in  front  of  a  fire  which  has  become  hollow  or 
exhausted.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  heat  of  the  fire  become  too  fierce,  the  meat  must  be  removed 
to  a  considerable  distance  until  the  temperature  has  somewhat  abated.  Some  cooks  always  fail  in 


520  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

their  roasts,  although  they  succeed  in  nearly  everything  else,  owing  to  their  disregard  of  the  rule 
which  should  govern  roasting.  A  French  chef  declared  that  anybody  can  learn  how  to  cook,  but 
that  one  must  be  born  a  "  roaster."  Beef  or  mutton  are  not  sufficiently  roasted  until  they  have 
acquired  throughout  the  whole  mass  a  temperature  of  158°  F.,  but  poultry  is  well  cooked  when  the 
inner  parts  have  attained  a  temperature  of  130°  to  140°  F. 

886.— FRICASSEE    OF    TRIPE.      (Fr.— Fricassee    de 
Tripe.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  dressed  tripe,  2  Spanish  onions  cut  into  dice, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
salt  and  pepper,  milk. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  tripe,  cut  it  into  pieces  about  2\  inches 
square,  place  them  in  a  stewpan,  and  cover  with  equal  parts  of  milk 
and  water.  Add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  boiling,  put  in  the 
onions  and  parsley,  and  simmer  gently.  Knead  the  butter  and  flour 
smoothly  together,  and  add  it,  in  small  pieces,  to  the  contents  of  the 
stewpan  when  they  have  cooked  i  hour.  Stir  until  the  flour  becomes 
smoothly  mixed  with  the  milk,  continue  cooking  for  about  £•  of  an  hour 
longer,  then  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  $d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

887.— HOT  POT. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  2  or  3  Ib.  of  potatoes,  \  Ib.  of  onions, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  fat  from  the  meat,  and  cut  it  into  8  or  10 
pieces,  cut  the  onions  into  very  thin  slices,  and  divide  each  potato 
across  into  3  or  4  pieces.  Put  a  layer  of  potato  at  the  bottom  of  an 
earthenware  dish,  then  a  layer  of  meat,  add  a  few  slices  of  onion,  and 
season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Continue  until  all  the  material 
is  used,  potato  forming  the  top  layer.  Fill  the  dish  3  parts  full  with 
cold  water,  adding  more  later  if  the  hot  pot  appears  at  all  dry.  Cover 
with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake  slowly  for  2  hours.  Serve  in  the  dish 
in  which  it  is  cooked. 

Time. — 2  hours  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons. 

888.-HUNTER'S  BEEF.    (Fr.— Bceuf  a  la  Chasseur.) 

Ingredients. — For  a  round  of  beef  weighing  about  24  Ib.,  allow  3  ozs.  of 
saltpetre,  3  ozs.  of  coarse  sugar,  i  oz.  of  cloves,  i  grated  nutmeg,  £ 
an  oz.  of  allspice,  i  Ib.  of  salt,  £  a  Ib.  of  bay-salt. 

Method. — Let  the  beef  hang  for  2  or  3  days,  and  remove  the  bone. 
Pound  the  spices,  salt,  etc.,  in  the  above  proportions,  and  let  them  be 
reduced  to  the  finest  powder.  Put  the  beef  into  an  earthenware  pan, 
rub  all  the  ingredients  well  into  it,  and  turn  and  rub  it  everyday  for 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  521 

a  little  over  a  fortnight.  When  it  has  been  sufficiently  long  in  pickle, 
wash  the  meat,  bind  it  up  securely  with  string,  and  place  it  in  a  pan 
with  \  a  pint  of  water  at  the  bottom.  Mince  some  suet,  cover  the 
top  of  the  meat  with  it,  and  over  the  pan  put  a  common  crust  of 
flour  and  water  ;  bake  for  6  hours,  and  when  cold,  remove  the  paste. 
The  Kravy  that  flows  from  it  should  be  saved,  as  it  adds  greatly  to  the 
flavour  of  hashes,  stews,  etc.  The  beef  may  be  glazed  and  garnished 
with  aspic  jelly. 

Time. — 6  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  i6s.  6d.  to  173.  6d.  Seasonable 
all  the  year. 

Note. — In  salting  or  pickling  beef  or  pork  for  family  consumption,  when 
it  is  not  to  be  kept  for  a  great  length  of  time,  a  smaller  quantity  of  salt, 
and  a  larger  quantity  of  other  matters  more  adapted  to  retain  mellowness 
in  meat,  may  be  employed.  Sugar,  which  is  well  known  to  possess  ant 
principles  in  a  very  great  degree,  without  the  pungency  and  astringency 
of  salt,  is,  very  gen- .-rally  u>--d  in  tin-  }>n-st  rvingof  meat  for  family  consumption. 
Although  it  acts  without  hardening  or  contracting  the  fibres  of  meat 
the  cast  \vith  ->.dt,  and,  therefore,  does  not  impair  its  mellowness,  yet  its 
use  in  sutticient  quantities  for  pp-serving  effect  without  the  addition  of 
other  antiseptics,  would  impart  a  flavour  not  agreeable  to  the  taste  of  many 
It  may  be  used,  however,  with  salt,  in  a  proportion  of  I  part  b\ 
w<  i-ht  to  4,  to  impart  mildness  and  mellowness  to  cured  m 

889. -KIDNEY,  STEWED.  (Fr.— Ragout  de  Rognon. 

Ingredients. — i  lb.  of  ox  kidney,  i  pint  of  water,  i  oz.  of  beef  dripping, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  finely-chopped  small  onion,  salt  and 
pepper,  flour. 

Method. — Cut  the  kidney  into  slices  about  £  inch  thick,  and  remove 
the  core.        Make  the  dripping    hot    in  a  stewpan,    season  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  with  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  dip  the  slices  of  kidney  in  the  mixture,  and  fry  them  in  the 
hot  fat  until  browned  on  both  sides,  and  at  the  same  time  fry  the  onion. 
Drain  away  the  fat,  add  i  pint  of  nearly  boiling  stock  or  water,  a  little 
salt  and   |H  j>}><  r,  cover  closely,  and  simmer  very  slowly  for   i   hour. 
Knead  the  butter  and  flour  smoothly  together,  add  it  in  small  portions 
to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  cook  for  20  minutes  longer,  or  until 
the  kidney  is  perfectly  tender.     Arrange  the  slices  of  kidney  n 
on  a  hot  dish,  season  the  sauce  to  taste,  and  strain  it  over.     When 
intended  for  luncheon  the  kidney  may  be  served  within  a  bon! 
mashed  potato,  and  the  dish  garnished  with  small  cooked  torn 
For  biv,i.kfast  it  may  l>e  varied  by  the  addition  of  small  rolls  of  fried 
i.  poached  eggs,  or  sippets  of  either  toasted  or  fried  br 

Time. — About   i£  hours.     Average  Cost,   is.   jd.     Sufficient    for  about 
I  Ivr 

89o-KIDNEY,  FRIED.     (Rognon  frit  de  Boeuf.) 

Ingredients.-    i   lb.  of  ox  kidney,  2  ozs.  of  butter,   i   teaspoonful  of 


522  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspooniul  of  lemon-juice,  salt,  cayenne, 
flour. 

Method. — Cut  the  kidney  into  slices  about  £  of  an  inch  thick,  and 
remove  the  core.  Make  the  butter  hot  in  a  saute-pan,  mix  i 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper  together  on  a  plate,  dip  the  slices  of  kidney  in  the  mixture, 
and  fry  them  gently  in  the  butter  for  about  20  minutes,  turning  them 
2  or  3  times,  and  keeping  the  saute-pan  covered.  Have  ready  a  very  hot 
dish,  arrange  the  kidney  neatly  in  2  rows  ;add  the  lemon-juice,  parsley 
and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  to  the  butter  in  the  saute-pan,  and  pour  over 
the  kidney.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — From  30  to  35  minutes,  to  prepare  and  cook.  Average  Cost, 
is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

891.— KIDNEY    WITH    ITALIAN    SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Rognon  de  Boeuf  a  I'ltalienne.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  ox-kidney,  i  pint  of  water,  2  ozs.  of  beef 
dripping,  i^  ons.  of  butter,  i^  ozs.  of  flour,  6  preserved  mushrooms, 
i  finely-chopped  small  onion,  £  a  glass  of  sherry,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  kidney  into  slices  nearly  %  an  inch  thick,  and  re- 
move the  core.  Make  the  dripping  moderately  hot  in  a  saute-pan, 
season  i  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
a  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  dip  the  slices  of  kidney  in  the  mixture 
and  fry  them  for  about  20  minutes  very  slowly  in  the  moderately 
hot  fat;  fry  the  onion  at  the  same  time,  and  keep  the  saute-pan  covered. 
In  another  pan  fry  the  butter  and  flour  together  until  a  nut-brown 
roux,  or  thickening,  is  formed,  then  add  the  stock  or  water,  stir  until 
it  boils,  and  simmer  for  at  least  20  minutes.  Remove  the  slices  of 
kidney,  and  drain  carefully  from  fat  ;  add  them,  together  with  the 
sliced  mushrooms  and  sherry,  to  the  sauce,  and,  when  hot,  season  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

892.— LEG  OF  BEEF  STEW. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  leg  or  shin  of  beef,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  5  or  6  pieces,  put  them  in  a  dish,  pour 
the  vinegar  over,  and  let  them  remain  at  least  i  hour,  turning 
them  2  or  3  times.  When  ready,  put  the  pieces  with  the  vinegar  into 
a  jar  with  a  close-fitting  lid,  add  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper, 
the  herbs,  and  the  vegetables  cut  into  thick  slices.  Put  on  the  lid, 
cover  with  2  or  3  thicknesses  of  greased  paper,  stand  the  jar  either  in 
a  cool  oven  or  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  simmer  slowly  for  3 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING   BEEF  523 

hours.     When  done,  remove  the  bouquet-garni,  and  serve  the  stew 
in  a  hot  dish  with  its  gravy. 

Time. — 3  hours  to  stew.  Average  Cost,  c;d.  or  lod.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

893.— LIVER  AND  BACON.       (Fr.—  Foie   de    Boeuf   a 
PAnglaise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  liver,  £  Ib.  of  bacon,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Rinse  the  liver  in  cold  water,  put  it  into  a  basin,  cover 
with  BOILING  water,  let  it  remain  immersed  for  about  15  minutes, 
then  drain,  dry,  and  cut  it  into  slices  about  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 
Also  cut  the  bacon  into  very  thin  slices.  Add  a  good  seasoning  of  salt 
and  pepper  to  the  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  dip  the  liver  in  the  mix- 
ture. Heat  the  frying-pan,  put  in  the  bacon,  fry  slowly,  remove  to  a 
HOT  dish,  and  keep  hot  until  wanted.  Fry  the  liver  in  the  bacon  fat 
until  nicely  browned  on  both  sides,  then  remove  and  keep  hot.  Sprinkle 
the  flour  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  stir  and  fry  until  brown,  add  about 
|  a  pint  of  warm  water,  stir  until  boiling,  and  season  to  taste.  Arrange 
the  pieces  of  liver  in  a  close  circle,  strain  the  sauce  over,  place  the 
-.lues  of  bacon  on  the  top,  and  serve. 

Time. — 35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  Sufficient  for 
6  persons. 

894.— LIVER,  SAVOURY.  (Fr.-Foie  de  Boeuf  d  la 
Frangaise.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  liver,  as  many  thin  slices  of  bacon  as  there 
are  slices  of  liver,  veal-forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  i  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  and  slice  the  liver  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe.  Spread  each  slice  with  a  thin  layer  of  forcemeat,  and  cover 
with  bacon.  Lay  them  on  the  bottom  of  a  large  baking-tin,  surround 
to  about  £  the  depth  of  the  liver  with  boiling  water,  cover  with  a 
buttered  paper,  and  bake  slowly  for  about  £  an  hour.  Arrange  the 
liver  in  a  close  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  and  keep  it  hot.  Mix  the  flour 
smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water,  add  £  of  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 
pour  into  the  tin,  boil  up,  season,  and  strain  round  the  liver. 

Time. — \  an  hour.    Average  Cost,  is.  8d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

MAHKOW  BONES. — Bone  is  composed  of  a  close,  bard  material,  and  a  softer  reticulated  substance 

called  spongy  or  cancellous  tissue.     All  bone  is  more  or  less  porous,  the  difference  between  the  hard 

and  the  spongy  portions  being  one  of  degree  only,  as  may  be  seen  when  it  is  viewed  under  the  lens  of  a 

microscope.      The  surface  of  bones  is  the  densest  portion,  the  inner  parts  are  more  cellular,  and  are 

hll.-d  with  a  ',-•-.  tissue,  called  medulla,  or  marrow,  the  vascular  connective  tissue  interspersed  with 

which  support  the  fine  blood  vessels  forming  the  centre  of  nourishment  for  the  inner  Mirf.in- 

>f  bones  is  due  chiefly  to  the  presence  of  phosphate  of  lime,  and  carbonate 

•  it.-  about  two-thirds  of  the  substance  of  bone.     The  remaining  one-third  con- 

uiimal  matter,  chiefly  £••'.  .il  bones  possess  the  qualities  of  strength 

and  lightness  in  a  remarkable  dearer,    t!  for  their  special  function  in  animal  life. 

•  •ssess  a  certain  degree  of  \ampl*,  those  of  th- 


524  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

895.— MARROW    BONES. 

Ingredients. — Marrow  bones,  flour,  dry  toast. 

Method. — Saw  the  bones  into  short  lengths,  cover  the  ends  with  a 
paste  made  of  flour  and  water,  tie  them  in  a  floured  cloth,  and  boil  from 
ij  to  2  hours.  Remove  the  cloth  and  crust,  set  the  bones  upright  on 
a  dish  covered  with  a  hot  napkin,  and  serve  with  dry  toast. 

Time. — To  boil,  if  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.  to  is. 

896.— MARROW   TOAST. 

Ingredients. — Marrow  bones,  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  dry  toast. 

Method. — Prepare  the  bones  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe, 
and,  when  cooked,  scoop  out  the  marrow.  Season  to  taste,  spread  on 
hot  toast,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — To  boil,  if  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.  to  is. 

897.— MIGNONS  OF  BEEF,  PARMENTIER  STYLE. 
(Fr. — Mignon  de  Bceuf  a  la  Parmentier.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  butter  for  frying,  crisply-fried 
potato  straws,  gravy  or  sauce. 

Method. — Cut  the  fillet  into  rather  thick  neat  round  fillets,  and  season 
them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Peel  the  potatoes  and  cut  them  into  dice 
shapes,  then  fry  and  drain  them  well,  sprinkle  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  and  keep  them  hot.  Heat  about  i  oz.  of  butter  in  asaute-pan, 
fry  the  mignons  quickly,  turning  them  2  or  3  times  during  the  process, 
and  drain.  Arrange  them  in  a  close  row  down  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish, 
pile  the  potato  straws  lightly  on  either  side  of  the  mignons,  and  serve 
with  a  little  good  gravy  or  sauce. 

Time. — To  fry,  6  or  7  minutes.  Average  Cost,  43.  to  45.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  8  or  9  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

898.— MIGNONS    OF    BEEF,    MILANAISE    STYLE. 
(Fr. — Mignons  de  Bceuf  a  la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  butter  for  frying,  £  a  pint  of  brown 
sauce,  No.  233,  4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  boiled  and  cut  into  £-inch  lengths, 
i  tablespoonful  of  shredded  ham  or  tongue,  i  shallot  finely-chopped, 
£  a  clove  of  garlic  bruised,  £  a  tablespconful  of  shredded  champignons, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  Parmesan  cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  round  fillets,  and  trim  them  neatly. 
Heat  a  little  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  mignons  quickly  for  6  minutes, 
turning  them  once,  and  keep  them  hot.  Drain  away  any  excess  of 
butter  there  may  be,  put  in  the  ham  or  tongue,  shallot,  garlic,  cham- 
pignons, and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  add  the  brown  sauce.  Stir  until  boiling,  add  the  macaroni, 
simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  then  stir  in  the  cheese.  Meanwhile 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  525 

place  the  mignons  separately  in  small  casseroles,  cover  with  sauce, 
put  on  the  lids,  and  cook  gently  on  the  stove  or  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
about  20  minutes.  Serve  in  the  casseroles. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  45.  6d.  to  55.  Sufficient  for 
8  to  9  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

899.— MIGNONS  OF    BEEF,  BOURGEOISE    STYLE. 
(Fr. — Mignons  de  Boeuf  a  la  Bourgeoise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  £  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  tomato  puree,  36  very  small  button  onions,  an  equal 
quantity  of  turned  carrot  and  turnip,  butter  for  frying,  stock,  salt  and 
pepp 

Method. — Turn  the  carrot  and  turnip  with  a  large-sized,  pea-shaped 
cutter,  and  cook  them  and  the  onions  separately  in  strong  stock  until 
about  half  done.  Have  the  brown  sauce  ready  in  a  stc\\pan,  add  the 
tomato  puree,  boil  up,  season  to  taste,  and  pass  through  a  tammy- 
cloth  or  fine  strainer.  Fry  the  mignons  for  6  minutes  in  hot  butter, 
place  them  in  one  large  casserole  or  separately  in  small  ones.  Cover 
with  vegetables,  add  the  sauce,  and  cook  gently  on  the  stove  or  in  the 
oven  for  about  20  minutes.  When  casseroles  are  not  available,  drain 
the  butter  from  the  mignons  when  cooked,  add  the  sauce  and 
tables,  cover  the  saute-pan,  and  finish  cooking  on  the  stove  or  in  the 
men.  In  the  latter  case,  the  mignons  must  be  neatly  arranged  on  a 
di-.li,  the  sauce  strained  over  them,  and  the  vegetables  placed  in  groups 
round  the  1». 

Time. — To  cook  the  fillets,  about  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  53. 
Sufficient  for  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

900.— MINCED  COLLOPS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  i\  ozs.  of  butter,  i  small  onion  or 
2  shallots  finely-chopped,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  hay-leaf), 
i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup  or  walnut  liquor  (lemon-juice  or 
vinegar  may  be  substituted),  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of 
stock  or  water,  salt  and  pepper,  toast. 

Method. — Mince  the  meat  very  finely  by  hand.  Heat  the  butter  in  a 
saute-pan  or  frying-pan,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly  browned,  then 
add  the  flour  and  fry  a  little;  next  put  in  the  meat,  and  stir  over 
ro  for  a  few  minutes.  Add  the  stock  or  water,  bouquet-garni. 
and  mushroom-ketchup,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Cook  i  sly  for  15  minutes,  then  serve  garnished  with  sippets 

of  toasted  bread. 

Tln0.— To  cook,  altogether  aboal  _?;  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d, 
Sufficient  for  about  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


526  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

901.— MINIATURE  ROUND  OF  BEEF. 

Ingredients. — i  large  rib  of  beef,  peppercorns.  For  the  brine:  I  gallon 
of  soft  water,  3  Ib.  of  coarse  salt,  6  ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  salt- 
petre. For  garnish:  carrots,  turnips,  onions. 

Method. — Boil  the  water,  salt,  sugar  and  saltpetre  together  for  \  an 
hour,  skimming  when  necessary,  and  put  the  mixture  aside  until  cold. 
Bone  the  meat,  rub  it  well  with  salt,  roll  up  lightly,  and  bind  with 
string.  Place  it  in  the  brine  when  cold,  let  it  remain  for  6  days,  turning 
it  daily,  then  drain  well.  Have  ready  a  stewpan  of  water  nearly 
boiling,  put  in  the  meat  with  12  peppercorns,  bring  to  the  boil,  cook 
rapidly  for  15  minutes,  and  afterwards  simmer  gently  until  done  (see 
"  Notes  on  Boiling,"  p.  430).  Cut  the  vegetable  into  dice,  and  add 
trimmings  of  the  same  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan.  Serve  garnished 
with  dice  of  vegetables,  which  should  be  boiled  separately. 

Time. — From  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  pd.  to  lod.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

902.-MIROTON  OF  BEEF.     (Fr.— Miroton  de  Boeuf.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef  cut  into  thin  slices,  i  pint  of 
good  brown  sauce  (see  Hashed  Beef,  No.  826,  2  Spanish  onions,  i 
teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt  and  pepper,  browned  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Make  the  brown  sauce  from  the  bones  and  trimmings 
of  the  meat.  Chop  the  onions  coarsely,  and  fry  them  together  with 
the  bouquet-garni  in  the  hot  butter  until  nicely  browned,  then  add 
the  brown  sauce,  and  vinegar,  and  season  to  taste.  Simmer  gently  for 
4-  an  hour,  stirring  and  skimming  occasionally,  then  pass  the  sauce 
through  a  tammy-cloth  or  fine  hair  sieve.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the 
dish  in  which  the  miroton  is  to  be  served  with  brown  sauce,  on  the  top 
place  the  slices  of  meat  in  neat  layers,  cover  with  sauce,  and  sprinkle  with 
the  browned  breadcrumbs.  Stand  the  dish  in  a  baking-tin  containing 
boiling  water,  and  put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  15  minutes. 
The  miroton  may  be  garnished  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  or  groups 
of  cooked  sprays  of  cauliflower,  peas,  haricots  verts,  or  julienne  strips 
of  turnip  and  carrot. 

Time. — About  i  hour,  after  the  brown  sauce  is  made.  Average  Cost, 
6d.,  exclusive  of  the  meat.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

903.— MOULDED    MINCEMEAT.     (See  Beef  Cake.) 

904.  NOISETTES  OF  BEEF  WITH  PARSLEY 
BUTTER.  (Fr.  Noisettes  de  Bceuf  a  la 
Maitre  d'Hotel. ) 

Ingredients.— 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beet,  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  i  oz.  of 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING   BEEF  527 

fresh  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper,  fried  potato  ribbons. 

Method. — Knead  the  butter,  parsley,  lemon-juice,  and  a  little  cayenne 
well  together,  form  into  a  flat  cake,  and  keep  on  ice  until  firm.  Cut 
the  meat  into  round  fillets,  trim  neatly,  brush  over  with  salad-oil  or 
oiled  butter,  and  grill  over  a  clear  fire.  Turn  them  two  or  three  times 
during  the  process,  and  each  time  brush  the  fillets  over  with  oil,  and 
sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  them  in  a  nearly  upright 
position  down  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  put  a  small  pat  of  the  prepared 
butter  on  the  top  of  each  fillet,  garnish  with  crisply-fried  potato  rib- 
bons, and  serve  very  hot. 

Time. — To  grill,  8  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  35.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  about  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

905. -NOISETTES    OF    BEEF   WITH    MUSHROOMS. 
(Fr.— Noisettes  de  Boeuf  aux  Champignons.) 

Ingredients. — 2  lb.  of  fillet  of  beef,  2  fresh  mushrooms,  i  finely- 
chopped  shallot,  ^  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  250),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  fillets  of  even  size,  not  less  than  £  an 
inch  in  thickness,  and  as  round  as  possible,  chop  the  mushrooms  finely, 
add  to  them  the  shallot,  parsley,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  mix 
well  together.  Place  a  little  of  the  mixture,  in  the  form  of  a  round 
pat,  in  the  centre  of  each  fillet.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  put 
in  the  fillets  THE  FARCED  SIDE  DOWN,  fry  quickly,  then  turn  and  fry 
the  other  side  rather  more  slowly.  To  serve,  arrange  the  noisettes  in 
2  rows  on  a  bed  of  mashed  potato  (spinach  may  be  used  instead),  and 
t  pour  the  hot  sauce  round. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  45.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

906. -OX-CHEEK,  STEWED.    (Fr.— Tete  de  Boeuf  en 
ragout.) 

Ingredients.— i  ox-cheek,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  onions 
mall  carrots,  i  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsk-v 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns,  2  cloves,  a  glass  of  sherry,  if  liked 
i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  cheek  in  several  waters,  remove  the  splintered 
bones,  if  any,  and  soak  for  at  least  12  hours  in  salt  and  water,  changing 
the  water  2  or  3  times.  When  sufficiently  soaked,  wash  it  well  in 
warm  water,  put  into  a  boiling-pot,  cover  with  cold  water,  bring  to 
the  boil,  and  skim  well.  Now  add  the  \  -  cut  into  thick  slices, 

]>r]>}M-n  nrn^.  t  1m  rs.  1>< ,u. \\\< -i  -.irni.  and  a  !KM}><  «1  tr.i-pnontnl  <»t  salt, 
and  cook  slowly  for  alxjut  .4  hours,  or  until  the  bones  may  be  easily 


528  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

removed.  Have  ready  the  brown  roux  (or  thickening),  made  by  frying 
the  butter  and  flour  together  until  they  acquire  a  nut-brown  colour, 
strain  on  to  it  rather  more  than  i  pint  of  liquor  from  the  boiling  pan, 
stir  until  it  boils,  and  simmer  for  at  least  10  minutes.  In  the  meantime 
bone  the  cheek,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving.  Add  the 
sherry  and  lemon-juice  to  the  sauce,  season  to  taste,  put  in  the  slices 
of  cheek,  and,  when  hot,  serve.  The  dish  may  be  garnished  with  dice 
or  julienne  strips  of  turnip  and  carrot  cooked  separately.  The  liquor 
in  which  the  cheek  has  been  cooked  makes  excellent  soup. 

Time. — To  cook,  4^  to  5  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  persons. 

907.— OX-CHEEK  MOULD.       (Fr.— Tete  de  Bceuf  en 
gel*.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  ox-cheek.  To  i  Ib.  allow  £  of  a  Ib.  of  cooked 
tongue,  ham  or  bacon,  3  hard-boiled  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  the  grated  rind  of  |  a  lemon,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  mixed  herbs,  ^  a  pint  of  liquor  in  which  the  cheek  was  cooked, 
3  or  4  sheets  of  gelatine,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  cheek  and  tongue  or  ham  into  small  pieces,  cut 
the  eggs  into  slices  or  sections,  and  arrange  some  of  them  in  a  pattern 
on  the  bottom,  and  round  the  sides  of  a  plain  mould  or  basin.  Mix  the 
parsley,  lemon-rind,  herbs,  salt  and  pepper  together.  Cover  the  bottom 
of  the  decorated  mould  with  a  thick  layer  of  ox-cheek,  on  the  top  of 
it  place  a  thin  layer  of  bacon,  add  a  few  slices  of  egg,  and  sprinkle 
well  with  the  flavouring  mixture.  Repeat  until  the  mould  is  full, 
pour  in  a  little  warm  stock  in  which  the  gelatine  has  previously  been 
dissolved,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  stand  in  a  tin  containing  water, 
and  bake  for  i£  hours  in  a  moderate  oven.  Pour  in  the  remainder 
of  the  stock,  and  when  cold  turn  cut  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.,  exclusive 
of  the  ox-cheek. 

908.— OX-CHEEK,  STUFFED.       (Fr.— Tete   de  boeuf 
farci.) 

Ingredients. — i  ox-cheek,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  onions,  2  small  carrots,  i  turnip,  2  strips  of 
celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  12  peppercorns, 
2  cloves,  salt  and  pepper,  i  egg,  browned  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  cheek  as  directed  in  recipe  for  "  Ox 
Cheek,  Stewed."  As  soon  as  the  bones  can  be  easily  separated  from 
the  meat,  take  the  cheek  out  of  the  boiling-pot,  remove  the  bones, 
flatten  the  cheek  on  the  table,  season  it  well  with  salt  and  pepper, 
spread  on  the  forcemeat,  roll  up  tightly  and  bind  securely  with  string 


RECIPES  FOR  COOKING  BEEF  5^ 

Coat  the  rolled  check  thickly  with  egg  and  browned  bread  crumbs,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  i£  hours,  basting  frequently  with  hot  fat. 
Fry  the  butter  and  flour  together  until  a  brown  roux  (or  thickening) 
is  formed,  strain  on  to  it  i  pint  of  liquor  from  the  boiling  pot,  stir  until 
boiling,  simmer  for  about  £  an  hour,  then  season  to  taste,  and  when 
ready  to  serve  strain  it  into  a  sauce-boat.  If  liked,  the  dish  may  be 
garnished  with  small  rolls  of  fried  bacon  and  slices  of  lemon. 

Time.— From  4  to  4^  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  35.     Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons. 

909.— OX    LIVER    ROASTED.      (Fr.— Foie  de  BceuO 

Ingredients  . — 2  Ib.  of  liver,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  fat  bacon,  salt  and  pepper, 
flour. 

Method.— Wash  and  dry   the  livrr.   place  it   in  a  deep  K 
surround  it  to  I  its  depth  with  ho'  id  cover  with 

!  (iitly  for  \\  hou  •  !!.  and  dredging  frequenth 

flour  highly  seasoned  with  salt  an  ie  process.         (The 

bacon  may  be  cut  into  dice  and  served  as  a  garnish,  in  which  « 
must  be  kept  co\  ered  with  two  or  three   thicknesses  of  greased  paper 
while  cooking  otherwise  it  will  become  too  crisp.) 

Time. — 1\   hours.     Average    Cost,    is.    2d.    to    is.    4d.     Sufficient   for 
5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  tune. 


9IO.-OX     PALATES,    STEWED.         (Fr.— Palais   de 
Boeuf.) 

Ingredients.      \  ox-palates,  i  \  pints  of  stock,  i|  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs. 
of  flour,    i    onion,    i    small  carrot,  £  a  small   turnip,  a  bou 

J),  6  peppercorns,  salt. 

Method. — Soak  the  palates  for  several  hours  in  salt  and  w 
press  them  frequently  with  the  fingers  to  draw  out  the  mucus.  Wash 
well  in  2  or  3  waters,  then  put  the  palates  into  a  stewpan  with  cold 
water  to  completely  cover  them,  heat  gradually,  and,  before  the  water 
drain,  and  scrape  off  the  rough  skin  which  covers  one  side,  leaving 
them  white  and  clear.  If  the  water  is  allowed  to  boil  this  skin  i->  n 

1    with   great   difficulty.      KepKue  the   stewpan, 

add  the  stock ,  herbs,  peppercorns,  sliced  vegetables,  and  salt,  and  simmer 

for  4  hours.     Press  lx  mtil  cold,  then  cut  into 

Fry  the  butter  and  flour  in  a  stewpan  until  a  brown 

roux  i  «>n  to  it  the  stock  in  which  the  palatc> 

>s  than  f  of  a  pint,  add  more  to  make  up  this 
put  in  t!  of  palate,  and  when  hot  serve,  garnished 

i  fully-cut   vegetables. 


530         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time. — 20  minutes  after  the  palates  are  cooked.    Average  Cost,  2s. 

Note. — The  palates,  after  being  either  b'raised  or  stewed  until  tender, 
and  pressed  until  cold,  may  be  marinaded  (soused  in  brine),  and,  after  being 
drained,  dipped  in  butter  coated  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs  and  fried,  cut  into 
rounds,  re-heated,  glazed,  and  dished  alternately  with  slices  of  cooked 
tomato,  or  stuffed  with  meat  farce,  and  dresssd  as  olives. 

911.— OX-TAIL   BROILED.      (Fr.— Queux    de    Boeuf 
grilles.) 

Ingredients. — 2  tails,  i£  pints  of  stock,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and 
pepper,  piquante  sauce  or  good  gravy,  oiled  butter  or  salad  oil. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  tails,  and  divide  them  at  the  joints. 
Put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  stock,  which  should  be  highly- 
flavoured,  otherwise  vegetables  and  herbs  must  be  added.  Simmer 
gently  for  2^  hours,  then  drain  and  put  aside  until  cold.  When  ready, 
coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  dip  into  oiled  butter  or  salad- 
oil,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire.  Serve  with  sauce  or  gravy.  Cold 
remains  may  be  utilized  in  this  manner. 

Time. — To  stew,  2^  hours;  to  broil,  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sd. 
to  2S.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

912.— OX-TAIL,  STEWED.      (Fr.— Queux  de  Boeuf.) 

Ingredients. — i  ox-tail,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  pint  of  stock 
or  water,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  cloves,  i  blade 
of  mace,  i  sliced  onion,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  tail,  cut  it  into  pieces  about  i£  inches  long,  and 
divide  the  thick  parts  in  half.  Make  the  butter  hot  in  a  stewpan,  dry 
the  pieces  of  tail  thoroughly,  and  fry  them  brown  in  the  butter.  Take 
them  out  of  the  stewpan,  put  in  the  sliced  onion  and  flour,  fry  until 
well  browned,  then  add  the  stock,  bouquet-garni,  cloves,  mace,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Replace  the  pieces  of  tail,  cover 
closely,  and  simmer  gently  for  2^-  to  3  hours.  Arrange  the  pieces 
of  tail  on  a  hot  dish,  season  the  sauce  to  taste,  add  the  lemon-juice, 
and  strain  over  them.  Garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  or  groups 
of  cooked  turnip  and  carrot,  cut  either  into  dice  or  julienne  strips. 

Time. — From  2f  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  pd.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

THE  TAILS  OF  ANIMALS. — The  vertebral  column,  or  backbone  of  the  Mammalia,  presents  only  slight 
modifications,  and  everywhere  shows  the  same  characteristics  as  in  man,  who  stands  at  the  head  of 
this  division  of  the  animal  kingdom.  The  length  of  this  column,  however,  varies  much,  and  the  num- 
ber of  vertebrae  of  which  it  is  composed  is  far  from  being  uniform.  These  numerical  differenc « -  prin- 
cipally depend  on  the  unequal  development  of  the  caudal  appendage,  or  tail-end,  of  the  column. 
Thus,  the  tail-forming  vertebrae  sometimes  do  not  exist  at  all — amongst  certain  bats,  for  example, 
in  other  examples  forty,  fifty,  and  even  sixty  of  these  bones  may  be  reckoned.  Among  th- 
number  of  mammals,  the  tail  is  of  little  use  for  locomotion,  except  that  in  many  cases  it  performs  the 
function  of  a  rudder,  steadying  the  animal  in  his  rapid  movements,  and  enabling  him  to  turn  more 
easily  and  quickly.  Among  some  animals  it  is  a  V-TV  powerful  aid  to  pr-u^re—ion,  a>  in  tin- 
case  of  the  kangaroos  and  jerboas,  the  tail  forming,  with  tin-  hind  fret,  a  kind  of  tripod  from  which 
the  animal  makes  its  spring.  With  most  of  the  American  monkeys,  the  tail  is  prehensile,  and  serves 
tlie  animal  as  a  fifth  hand  to  suspend  itself  from  the  branches  of  trees  ;  and  lastly,  among  the  whales, 
it  grows  to  an  enormous  size,  and  becomes  the  principal  agent  for  swimming. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    BEEF  531 

913.—  PICKLED  ROUND  FOR  HANGING. 

(Fr.  —  Bceuf  Marine.) 

Ingredients.  —  74  or  16  lb.  of  round  of  beef.  For  the  brine  i  Ib.  of 
coarse  salt,  £  a  lb.  of  coarse  brown  sugar,  %  an  oz.  of  saltpetre. 

Method.  —  Mix  the  salt,  sugar  and  saltpetre  together,  and  rub  the 
mixture  well  into  the  meat.  Keep  it  in  an  earthenware  pan,  turn  twice 
a  week  for  3  weeks,  then  drain  and  bind  into  shape  with  strong  tape. 
The  meat  may  be  at  once  cooked,  or,  if  preferred,  it  may  be  hung  in  a 
kitchen,  in  which  a  fire  is  constantly  kept,  lor  3  weeks.  Pork,  hams  and 
bacon  may  be  similarly  treated,  but  will  require  double  the  quantity 
of  brine,  and  after  being  hung  for  3  weeks  they  should  be  either  smoke- 
dried  or  placed  in  tubs  filled  with  dry  oat  -rusks. 

Time.  —  3  weeks  in  the  brine,  3  weeks  hung.     Average  Cost,  .Sd.  t- 
,T  lb.     Seasonable  at  an     time. 


91  4.  -POTTED  OX-TONGUE. 

Ingredients.  —  Cooked  ox-tongue.  To  each  lb.  allow  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
powdered  mace,  cloves,  nutmeg,  cayenne. 

Method.  —  Chop  the  tongue  finely,  then  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar, 
gradually  adding  clarified  butter,  and  the  above  flavourings  until 
the  whole  is  reduced  to  a  moist  smooth  paste.  Rub  through  a  fine 
sieve,  press  into  pots,  and  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  clarified 
butter. 

THE  TONGUE  OF  ANIMALS.—  The  tongue  in  most  vertebrate  animals  is  the  organ  of  taste.  It  is 
composed  of  fleshy  muscular  tissue,  and  in  man  is  attached  by  its  base  to  the  hyoid  bone,  but  is  free 
at  its  other  extremity.  In  many  nshes  the  muscular  tissue  is  absent.  The  tongue  of  the  parrot  tribe 
is  fleshy,  but  in  some  birds,  as  the  wood-pecker,  it  serves  the  purpose  of  a  dart  in  capturing  insects, 
which  it  transnxes.  The  characteristic  roughness  of  the  tongue  is  caused  by  the  presence  of  papillae, 
or  minute  spots  protruding  from  the  surface  of  the  skin  ;  and  these  in  the  carnivora,  as  the  lion,  tiger, 
etc.,  are  large  and  horny,  and  act  like  a  rasp  in  tearing  off  the  flesh  from  the  bones  of  their  prey.  A 
curious  solid  body  is  found  in  the  under  surface  of  the  tongue  of  the  dog,  called  the  "  worm,"  or 
"  lytt.i."  The  top  and  edges  are  the  most  sensitive  portions  of  the  tongue,  and  the  sense  of  touch, 
as  well  as  that  of  taste,  is  highly  developed.  Three  main  sets  of  nerves  are  situated  in  the  tongue, 
the  gustatory  and  the  Lingual  nerves,  which  are  connected  with  the  sense  of  feeling  and  taste,  and  the 
hypo-glossal  nerve,  which  acts  upon  the  motor  nerves  of  the  muscles  of  the  tongue.  The  tongue 
of  the  ox  somewhat  resembles  that  of  the  horse,  which  is  sometimes  substituted  by  dishonest  dealers 
for  the  former.  The  deception  may,  however,  be  detected  by  observing  the  spoon-like  expansion 
which  characterizes  the  tongue  of  the  horse. 

915.—  POTATO  PASTY.      (Fr.—  Pat6  de    Pommes    de 
terre.) 

Ingredients.  —  $  a  lb.  of  paste,  £  of  a  lb.  of  raw  lean  beef  cut  into  dice, 
J-  of  a  lb.  of  parboiled  potatoes  cut  into  dice,  i  very  small  onion 
cooked  and  finely-chopped,  pepper  and  salt,  gravy  or  water. 

Method.—  Make  the  paste  as  directed,  roll  it  out,  keeping  it  as  round 

Mix  the  meat,  potato  and  onion  together,  season  \\vll. 
and  m<>iM<-n  with  J  or  3  Mbk-spoonluls  of  gravy  or  water.     Place  the 


532         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

meat  preparation  on  one  half  of  the  paste,  wet  the  edges,  fold  the  other 
half  over,  and  join  neatly  and  securely.  Prick,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  nearly  i  hour,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  50  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  Qd. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

9I6.-PORTERHOUSE       STEAK.        (Fr.— Entrecote 
Double.) 

Ingredients. — A  steak  about  i£  inches  in  thickness,  cut  from  a  well- 
hung  sirloin  oi  beef,  warm  butter  or  salad-oil. 

Method. — Brush  the  steak  over  on  both  sides  with  salad-oil  or  warm 
butter,  sprinkle  with  pepper,  and  when  convenient  let  it  remain  for 

1  hour  before  cooking.     Grill  over  a  clear  fire  (see  Grilling),  and  serve 
with  maitre  d  hotel  butter,  groups  of  button  onions  fried  in  butter 
and  glazed,  small  stuffed  tomatoes,    horseradish    sauce,    or  suitable 
accompaniment. 

.-  -jCO   C1  .*";  T  TO 

917.— PYRAMIDS  OF  BEEF.  (Fr.— Pyramides  de  Boeuf .) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  underdone  beef,  i  egg,  a  little 
sauce,  either  brown  or  white,  i  shallot  finely-chopped,  i  tablespoonful 
of  finely-chopped  mushrooms,  f-  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  finely-chopped 
parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  round  croutes  of  fried  or  toasted  bread,  about 

2  inches  in  diameter. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallot  and  onion  until 
the  former  is  well-browned,  then  put  in  the  prepared  meat,  moisten 
with  a  little  sauce,  add  the  beaten  egg,  season  rather  liberally  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  10  or  15  minutes.  If  the  mixture 
becomes  too  stiff  add  more  sauce;  if  not  stiff  enough  to  be  piled  high 
on  the  croutes,  cook  a  little  longer,  in  order  that  the  egg  may  bind  more 
firmly.  Have  the  croutes  ready,  pile  the  mixture  upon  them,  tapering 
to  a  point.  Sprinkle  lightly  with  parsley,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — To  cook,  10  or  1 5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  /d.  or  8d.,  in  addition 
to  the  meat. 

918.— RAGOUT  OF  BEEF.     (Fr.— Ragout  de  Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef  (preferably  underdone),  2  ozs. 
of  butter  or  fat,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  2  onions  coarsely-chopped,  i  carrot  cut 
into  dice,  |  a  turnip  cut  into  dice,  i  pint  of  stock  made  from  bones  and 
trimmings,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  neat  slices,  put  them  aside,  and  boil  the 
bones  and  trimmings  at  least  2  hours  for  stock.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  add  the  onion  and  trimmings  of  carrot  and  turnip,  fry  until 
lightly  browned,  then  sprinkle  in  the  flour.  Stir  and  cook  slowly  until 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  533 

well-browned,  put  in  the  stock,  season  to  taste,  and  stir  until  boiling. 
Boil  gently  for  15  minutes,  then  cool  slightly,  put  in  the  meat,  cover 
closely,  and  cook  very  gently  for  i£  hours,  taking  care  to  keep  the 
temperature  just  below  simmering  point.  Place  the  slices  of  meat  on 
a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  with  the  vegetable  dice 
cooked  separately.  A  tablespoonful  ot  mushroom  ketchup,  walnut 
liquor,  sharp  sauce  or  vinegar,  may  be  used  to  give  additional  flavour 
to  the  sauce. 

Time. — To  stew,  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.,  exclusive  of  the  meat. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

9I9._ ROAST   BEEF   PUDDING. 

Ingredients.— -\  a  Ib.  of  cold  roast  beef  finely-chopped,  3  ozs.  of  flour, 
i  egg,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  salt 
and  pepper,  dripping. 

Method. — Make  the  batter  as  directed  for  frying  batter,  season  it  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  herbs  and  meat.  Melt  a  little  dripping 
in  a  piedish  or  deep  baking-tin,  put  in  the  preparation,  bake  until  set 
and  nicely  browned,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.,  in  addition 
to  the  meat.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — The  beef  may  also  be  prepared  as  for  "  Beef  au  Gratin,"  ami  in 
of  using  scallop  shells,  place  the  meat  in  a  basin  lined   with   siu-t    pi^t.    mist. 
cover  with  paste,  and  strain  for  J  hours  (sic  "  Beef  Steak  Pudding."). 

920.— RIBS,  ROAST.     (See  Roast  Beef.) 
921.— SCOTCH  COLLOPS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  beefsteak,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  very  small  pieces,  but  do  not  chop  it. 

i  he  butter  hot  in  a.  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  lightly,  stir  in  the  flour 

and  cook  a  little  longer,  then  add  the  meat  and  the  stock,  and  simmer 

slowly  for  40  minutes.     Surround   the  dish  with  sippets  of  fried  or 

toasted  bread,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  cook,  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  persons. 

922.— SIRLOIN,    ROAST.     (See  Roast  Beef.) 

The  loin  of  beef  is  popularly  supposed  to  have  received  the  name 

>m  the  tradition  that  it  w.is  knighted  l>y  K,  :  I  at  Friday  Hall.    < 

"  hungry  as  a  hunter,"  he  bvb 

f  beef  smoking  upon  the  table.     "  A  noble  joint,"  cried  the  king.     "  BY  St. 
a  title."      1  >  his  sword,  he  raised  it  above  th<«  meat,  and  n 

Loin,  we  dti  .  !><•  Sir  L«  i  .   the  ingt'miitv 

•he  pl.iiu  f.i<  •  •  him,  the  \Vi  :  rig  found 

irlongt,  fourteenth  «entury, 


534         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 
923.— SEA  PIE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  beefsteak,  f-  of  a  Ib.  of  suet  paste  (see  pastes), 
i  small  onion,  i  carrot,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  steak  into  thin  slices  about  3  inches  square,  put 
them  into  a  shallow  stewpan,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  barely 
cover  the  slices  with  boiling  water,  put  on  the  lid,  and  simmer 
gently.  Slice  the  carrot  thinly,  cut  the  onion  into  small  pieces,  and 
add  them  to  the  meat.  Make  the  paste  as  directed,  roll  it  into  a  round 
rather  less  than  the  top  of  the  stewpan.  Lay  this  on  the  top  of  the 
meat  when  it  has  simmered  for  %  an  hour,  replace  the  lid,  and  continue 
the  cooking  for  i£  hours  longer.  When  the  pie  is  done,  cut  the  paste 
into  4  pieces,  and  remove  them  carefully  from  the  stewpan  to  a  plate  ; 
arrange  the  meat  and  vegetables  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  and  place  the 
crust  on  the  top. 

Time. — About  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  4  persons. 

924.— SLICED  AND  BROILED  BEEF.        (Fr.—  Boeuf 
Grille  aux  Pomme  de  Terre.) 

Ingredients. — Slices  of  cold  roast  beef,  potato  ribbons,  fry  ing-batter' 
frying-fat,  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Brush  the  slices  of  meat  over  with  salad  oil  or  oiled  butter, 
broil  over  a  clear  fire,  and  season  carefully  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip 
the  potato  ribbons  into  the  prepared  batter,  fry  them  rather  slowly 
in  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  nicely  browned,  and  drain  well. 
Place  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  the  potato  ribbons,  then 
serve. 

Time. — To  broil  the  meat,  5  minutes.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

925.— SMOTHERED  BEEFSTEAK. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  3  or  4  Spanish  onions,  flour,  salt  and 
pepper,  dripping. 

Method. — Cut  the  onions  across  the  stalk  into  rings,  put  them  into 
a  frying-pan  in  which  a  little  dripping  has  been  melted,  and  season 
liberally  with  salt  and  pepper.  Dredge  well  with  flour,  fry  until  crisp 
and  lightly-browned,  then  remove  and  keep  hot.  Strain  the  fat  and 
return  it  to  the  frying-pan,  adding  more  if  necessary,  let  it  become  very 
hot,  and  put  in  the  steak.  Fry  according  to  taste,  turning  2  or  3 
times  during  the  process,  and,  when  done,  remove  and  keep  hot.  Drain 
off  nearly  all  the  fat,  add  to  the  rest  as  much  flour  as  it  will  absorb, 
brown  nicely,  and  add  a  little  boiling  water.  Boil  up,  season  to  taste, 
simmer  for  2  minutes,  and  strain.  Place  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish, 
cover  with  onion,  pour  the  gravy  over,  then  serve. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  535 

Time. — To  fry,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

926.— STEAK    PUDDING,    BAKED. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  beef  steak,  4  a  Ib.  of  ox  kidney,  6  ozs.  of  flour,  2 
eggs,  |  of  a  pint  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  dripping. 

Method. — Cut  the  steak  into  finger-shaped  pieces,  fry  for  a  few 
minutes  in  dripping,  and  the  kidney  into  rather  thin  slices,  and 
season  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  the  eggs,  milk  and  flour 
into  a  smooth  batter  (see  Pastes),  and  season  to  taste  with  salt. 
Melt  a  little  dripping  in  an  earthenware  baking-dish  or  pie-dish,  put 
in  £  the  batter,  and  bake  until  set.  Place  the  partially  fried 
steak  and  kidney  on  the  top  of  the  batter,  fill  up  the  dish  with  the 
remainder  of  the  batter,  and  bake  until  set  and  well-browned. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  lod. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

927.— STEAK,     ROLLED.       (Fr.— Tranche    de     Bceuf 
roule.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  steak,  cut  in  i  piece,  J  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness, 6  to  8  ozs.  of  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  i  pint  of  stock  or 
water,  i|  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Flatten  the  meat  with  a  cutlet-bat  or  rolling-pin.  Let 
the  forcemeat  be  rather  highly  seasoned,  spread  it  on  the  meat,  roll 
up  tightly,  and  bind  with  tape.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put 
in  the  meat,  and  fry  quickly  until  the  whole  surface  is  browned,  then 
add  the  hot  stock  or  water,  cover  closely,  and  cook  slowly  for  about 
2  hours.  When  done,  place  on  a  hot  dish,  thicken  the  gravy  with  the 
flour,  boil  for  3  or  4  minutes,  season  to  taste,  and  strain  over  the  meat. 

Time. — About  2  hours,  to  cook.  Average  Cost,  2s.  oxl.  to  35.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

Note. — The  roll  may  also  be  baked  in  the  oven,  but  it  must  be  well  basted 
either  with  stock  or  fat. 

928.— STEWED    BEEF    WITH    OYSTERS. 

(Fr.— Bceuf  aux  Huitres. ) 

Ingredients. — Thick  slices  of  tender  underdone  cold  beef,  12  sauce 
oysters,  i  }  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  small  onion  or  2  shallots  fincly- 
chnpped.  ;  Of  a  pint  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.     Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  the  size  anil  >hape  <>i  iilletst.1 

71  .      Heat    the  butter  in  a  stcupin,   fry   the  meat  quickly 
until  lightly  browned  on  both  •*)<*,   then  remove  and  keep  hot.     Fry 


536         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  onion  or  shallots  until  lightly  browned,  then  sprinkle  in  the  flour, 
stir  and  cook  slowly  until  well-browned,  and  add  the  stock.  Season 
to  taste,  boil  gently  for  15  minutes,  then  cool  slightly  and  put  in  the 
meat.  Cook  very  slowly  for  i  hour,  keeping  the  temperature  just 
below  simmering  point,  then  add  the  flavoured  oysters  and  their 
strained  liquor.  Cook  for  a  very  few  minutes  longer  to  plump  the 
oysters,  and  serve  immediately,  otherwise  the  oysters  will  harden. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.,  in  addition  to  the  meat. 
Sufficient — Allow  i  Ib.  to  3  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  till 
March. 

929.— STEWED  BRISKET  OF  BEEF.    (Fr.—  Poitrine 
de  Boeuf  a  la  Bourgeoise.) 

Ingedients. — 6  or  7  Ib.  of  fresh  brisket  of  beef,  vinegar,  2  carrots 
£  a  turnip  2  onions,  2  or  3  strips  of  celery,  i  blade  of  mace,  10  pepper- 
corns, a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay -leaf),  i^  ozs.  of  butter, 
i£  ozs.  of  flour,  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Rub  the  meat  over  with  vinegar  and  salt,  and  let  it  remain 
2  or  3  hours  before  dressing.  Put  it  into  a  stewpan  just  large 
enough  to  contain  it,  barely  cover  with  stock,  or  water  when  stock 
is  not  available,  bring  to  the  boil  and  skim  well.  Simmer  gently  for 
i  hour,  then  add  the  prepared  vegetables,  mace,  peppercorns,  bouquet- 
garni,  and  salt  if  required,  and  continue  to  cook  as  slowly  as  possible 
for  2^  hours  longer,  keeping  the  stewpan  closely  covered  meanwhile. 
During  the  preparation  of  the  above  heat  the  butter  in  a  smaller  stew- 
pan, add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown 
colour,  then  put  aside  until  wanted.  When  ready,  take  up  the  meat 
remove  the  bones,  strain  the  stock,  and  add  to  it  either  stock  or  water 
to  make  up  i  pint.  Add  this  to  the  prepared  butter  and  flour,  stir  until 
boiling,  boil  gently  for  a  few  minutes,  and  season  to  taste.  Serve  the 
meat  garnished  with  the  vegetables,  and  the  sauce  separately. 

Time. — To  stew,  3-^  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  8d.  to  43.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 

930.— STEWED  STEAK. 

Ingredients. — lib.  of  beefsteak,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  fat  from  the  steak  and  put  it  aside  until 
wanted,  divide  the  lean  into  5  or  6  pieces.  Cut  the  vegetables  into 
dice,  or  julienne  strips,  and  keep  them  in  water  until  required.  Heat 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  steak  quickly  until  browned  on  both 
sides,  remove  it,  put  in  the  trimmings  of  the  vegetables  and  the  flour, 
fry  brown,  then  add  the  stock  or  water  and  stir  until  boiling.  Re- 
place the  meat,  season  to  taste,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    BEEF  537 

about  2  hours.  When  done,  have  ready  the  dice  or  strips  of  vegetables 
boiled  until  tender  in  salted  water,  and  the  fat  of  the  meat  fried  and 
nicely  browned.  Arrange  the  pieces  of  steak  neatly  on  a  hot  dish, 
strain  the  sauce  over,  place  the  fat  on  the  top,  and  garnish  the  base 
with  groups  of  the  prepared  vegetables. 

Time. — From  2-J-  to  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  3  or  4  persons. 

931.— TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF. 

Ingredients. — A  thick  slice  off  a  well-hung  sirloin,  salad-oil  or  oiled 
butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Brush  the  meat  on  both  sides  with  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter, 
grill  over  a  clear  fire  until  done,  turning  two  or  three  times,  and  re- 
peatedly brush  it  over  with  oil  or  butter.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  serve  with  fried  potatoes  and  Maitre  d'Hutel  butter,  or 
any  other  accompaniments  preferred. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes,  according  to  thickness.  Average  Cost, 
is.  2d.  to  is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

932.— TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  beef  steak  (cut  up  small),  4  ozs.  of  flour,  \  a  pint 
of  milk,  i  egg,  salt,  drip; 

Method.-  Mix  the  Hour,  milk,  egg,  and  a  little  salt  into  a  smooth 
batter.  Put  into  a  Yorkshire  pudding  tin  sufficient  dripping  to  form 
a  thin  layer  when  melted,  pour  in  about  \  of  the  batter,  and  bake  until 
set.  Then  add  the  meat,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour  in  the 
remainder  of  the  batter,  bake  quickly  until  it  has  risen  and  set,  and 
then  more  slowly  until  sufficiently  cooked.  Serve  in  squares  arranged 
neatly  overlapping  each  other  on  a  hot  dish. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  5d.  Suffi- 
cient for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

933. -TONGUE  BOILED.     (Fr.-Langue  de  Bceuf.) 

Ingredients. —  i  tongue,  a  bunch  of  savoury  herbs,  water. 

Method. —  In  choosing  a  tongue,  ascertain  how  long  it  has  boon  dried 

or  pickled,  and  select  one  with  a  smooth  skin,  which  denotes  its  being 

young  and  len«'  ne,  and  rather  hard,  soak  it  at 

for  12  hours  previous  to  cooking  it  ;  if,  however,  the  t.  fresh 

from  the  pickle,  2  or  3  hours  will  be  sufficient  for  it  to  remain  in  soak. 

Put  the  tongue  into  a  stcwpan  with  plenty  of  cold  water  and  a  bunch 

of  savoury  herbs,  let  it  gradually  come  to  a  boil,  skim  well,  and  simmer 

<*ntly  until  tenel.-r.      I'     1  ofl  the  skin,  garnish  with  tufts  of  cauli- 

I  or    Brussels  sprouts,   an<:  I'-niled    tongue   is   frequently 


538  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

sent  to  table  with  boiled  poultry,  instead  of  ham,  and  is  preferred  by 
many.  If  the  tongue  is  to  be  served  cold,  peel  it,  fasten  it  down 
to  a  piece  of  board  by  sticking  a  fork  through  the  root,  and  an- 
other through  the  top  to  straighten  it.  When  cold,  glaze  it,  put 
a  paper  ruche  round  the  root,  and  garnish  with  tufts  of  parsley. 

Time. — A  large  smoked  tongue,  4  to  4^  hours  ;  a  small  one,  2f  to  3 
hours.  A  large  unsmoked  tongue,  3  to  3^  hours  ;  a  small  one,  2  to  2^ 
hours.  Average  Cost,  for  a  moderate-sized  tongue,  55.  to  6s.  6d. 

934.— TONGUE  TO  CURE.        (Fr.— Langue  de  Boeuf 
Sale.) 

Ingredients. — For  a  tongue  of  7  lb.,  i  oz.  of  saltpetre,  \  an  oz.  of  black 
pepper,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  juniper  berries,  6  ozs.  of  salt. 

Method.  —  Rub  the  above  ingredients  well  into  the  tongue,  let  it 
remain  in  the  pickle  for  10  or  14  days,  then  drain  it,  tie  it  up  in  brown 
paper,  and  have  it  smoked  for  about  20  days  over  a  wood  fire.  It 
may  be  boiled  without  smoking  if  liked. 

Time. — From  10  to  14  days,  to  remain  in  the  pickle  ;  to  be  smoked 
24  days. 

Average  Cost,  for  a  medium-sized  uncured  tongue,  33.  6d. 

935.— TOURNEDOS   OF   BEEF    A   LA   COLBERT. 

(Fr.— Tournedos  a  la  Colbert.) 

Ingredients. — 2  lb.  of  fillet  of  beef,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  salad-oil.  For  the  Eschalot  sauce  :  ^  of  a  pint  of  good  gravy  or 
demi-glace  sauce  (No.  242),  6  finely-chopped  shallots,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  %  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  glass  of 
sherry.  For  the  garnish  :  small  rounds  of  potato  fried,  and  fried 
croutons  of  bread. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  rounds,  both  smaller  and  thinner  than 
fillets  of  beef.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  shallots  lightly, 
let  the  butter  cool  slightly,  then  strain,  leave  the  shallots  to  drain, 
and  return  the  butter  to  the  saute-pan.  Into  a  small  stewpan  put  the 
gravy  or  demi-glace  sauce,  sherry,  parsley,  lemon-juice,  the  shallots 
when  sufficiently  drained,  and  boil  until  well  reduced,  then  season 
to  taste,  and  keep  hot  until  required.  Add  the  salad-oil  to  the  butter 
in  the  saute-pan,  and  when  hot  put  in  the  tournedos  and  fry  them 
quickly  until  nicely  browned.  Arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  border 
of  mashed  potato,  put  the  fried  rounds  of  potato  in  the  centre,  garnish 
with  the  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve  the  Echalot  sauce  in  a 
sauce-boat,  or  pour  round  the  crust. 

Time. — \  an  hour.  Average  Cost. — 45.  Sufficient  for  6.  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING   BEEF  539 

936.— TOURNEDOS    OF    BEEF   A    LA    SICILIAN. 

(Fr. — Tournedos  de  Bceuf  a  la  Sicilienne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  £•  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  or  brown 
sauce,  No.  244,  or  233,  i  glass  of  Marsala,  butter  for  frying,  i 
heaped  tablespoonful  of  shredded  onion,  cayenne  pepper,  pepper  and 
salt,  potato  border. 

Method. — Cut  the  fillets  into  rounds  2^  inches  across  and  about 
I  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Brown  the 
shredded  onion  in  a  little  hot  butter,  drain  free  from  fat,  mix  with  the 
prepared  sauce,  and  add  the  Marsala,  Season  to  taste,  and  simmer 
gently  until  required.  Broil  the  fillets  over  a  clear  fire,  or  fry  them 
in  a  little  hot  butter,  and  arrange  them  in  a  close  row  on  a  border  of 
potato.  Pour  a  little  sauce  round,  and  serve  the  remainder  separately. 

Time. — To  broil  or  fry  the  fillets,  from  5  to  8  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
35.  6d.  to  45.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

937._TOURNEDOS   OF   BEEF   A    LA    BEARNAISE. 
(Fr. — Tournedos  de  Boeuf  a  la  Bearnaise. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  $  of  a  pint  of  Bearnaise  Sauce, 
No.  176,  £  of  a  pint  of  demi-glace  sauce,  No.  242,  butter  if  fried,  salt  and 
pepper,  mashed  potato. 

Method. — Cut  the  fillet  into  |-inch  slices,  trim  them  into  round  or 
oval  shapes  2\  inches  across,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Grill 
over  a  clear  fire,  or,  if  preferred,  fry  in  hot  butter.  Cover  one  side 
with  Bearnaise  Sauce,  arrange  neatly  on  a  potato  border,  and  pour  the 
demi-glace  sauce  round. 

Time. — To  fry  or  grill,  6  to  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

938.— TOURNEDOS  OF  BEEF  A    LA  VENETIENNE. 
(Fr. — Tournedos  de  Boeuf  a  la  Venetienne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  6  or  8  very  small  tomatoes,  6  or  8 
round  croutes  of  fried  bread,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  spinach  or  green 
pea  puree,  slices  of  hard-boiled  white  of  egg,  slices  of  truffle,  }  of  a  pint 
of  demi-glace  sauce,  No.  244,  salt  and  pepper,  potato  border. 

Method. — Scoop  out  a  little  of  the  pulp  of  the  tomatoes,  and  Bq 

some  of  the  juice.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  fill  with  the 
prepared  vegetable  puree,  piling  it  high,  and  make  thoroughly  hot  in 
the  oven.  Prepare  the  tournedos  as  directed  in  preceding  recipes, 
grill  over  a  clear  fire,  or  fry  in  hot  butter,  then  season  them  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  arrange  neatly  on  a  potato  border.  Place  the  toma- 
toes on  the  croutes,  lay  on  the  top  first  a  slice  of  white  of  egg,  and  then  a 
much  smaller  slice  of  truffle.  Pour  the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 


540         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time. — To  grill  or  fry,  from  6  to  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  43.  6d.  to 
45.  9d.  Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

939.— TOURNEDOS    OF     BEEF     A     LA     NELSON. 
(Fr. — Tournedos   de    Bceuf    a,  la   Nelson.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  fillet  of  beef,  £  of  a  pint  of  small  button  onions, 
£  of  a  pint  of  potato  dice,  \  a  pint  of  Espagnole  or  brown  sauce,  No.  244, 
or  233,  i  glass  of  Madeira,  butter  for  frying,  frying-fat,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Parboil  the  onions  in  strong  stock,  then  drain  them.  Cut 
the  meat  into  fillets  \  an  inch  thick  and  2  inches  in  diameter,  fry  lightly 
in  hot  butter,  then  drain  and  place  them  separately  in  small  casseroles, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  onions.  Have  the  sauce 
ready  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  wine,  season  to  taste,  fill  up  the  casseroles, 
and  cook  gently  for  about  40  minutes.  Fry  the  potato  dice  in  hot  fat 
until  well-browned,  drain  well,  and  add  them  to  the  contents  of  the 
casseroles  TO  or  15  minutes  before  serving. 

Time. — To  fryr  3  or  4  minutes;  to  stew,  40  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
33.  6d.  to  33.  Qd.  Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

940.— TRIPE  AND  ONIONS. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  dressed  tripe,  2  large  onions,  \  a  pint  of  milk* 
\  a  pint  of  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method.— Cut  the  tripe  into  3 -inch  squares  ;  put  them  into  a  stewpan, 
cover  with  cold  water,  bring  to  boiling  point,  and  strain.  Replace 
the  tripe,  add  the  milk,  water  and  salt,  boil  up,  put  in  the  thinly-sliced 
onions,  and  simmer  for  3  hours.  20  minutes  before  serving  have 
the  flour  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  pour  it  into  the  stewpan, 
stir  until  boiling,  and  simmer  for  15  minutes.  Season  to  taste,  and 
serve. 

Time. — About  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons 

941.— TRIPE  A  LA  LYONNAISE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cold  boiled  tripe,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  large  onion 
sliced,  i  heaped  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  dessertspoon- 
ful of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  tripe  into  pieces  2  inches  square.  Heat  the  butter 
in  a  frying-pan,  fry  the  onion  until  tender  and  lightly-browned,  then 
add  the  prepared  tripe,  parsley,  vinegar,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   BEEF  54! 

942.— TRIPE,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Tripe  Frite.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  dressed  tripe,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  about 
£  of  a  pint  of  milk  or  water,  salt  and  pepper,  dripping. 

Method. — Mix  the  milk  and  flour  into  a  smooth  batter,  adding  a 
little  more  milk  if  the  batter  is  too  stiff  to  run  readily  from  the  spoon, 
and  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  the  tripe  into  3-inch 
squares,  dip  them  into  the  batter,  and  fry  them  until  crisp  and  brown 
in  a  little  hot  dripping  in  a  frying-pan.  Onions  sliced  and  fried  are 
frequently  served  as  an  accompaniment  to  this  dish. 

Time. — About  £  hour,  to  prepare  and  fry.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

943.— TRIPE,  TO  DRESS. 

Ingredients. — Tripe,  water. 

Method. — The  paunch  is  always  emptied  and  cleansed  in  the  slaughter 
house,  and  seldom  offered  for  sale  in  an  entirely  un trimmed  condition. 
\\hen  bou.L'ht  in  its  natural  state,  it  must  be  repeatedly  washed,  and 
afterwards  boiled  for  ten  hours  or  more,  during  which  time  the  water 
should  be  changed  at  least  three  times. 

944.— TO  CLARIFY  BEEF  SUET  OR  FAT. 

.   Ingredients. — 6  Ib.  of  beef  fat,  i  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Remove  skin  and  sinews  of  the  fat,  then  cut  it  into  small 
pieces  ;  put  them  with  the  water  into  an  old  iron  saucepan,  and  boil 
until  all  the  water  has  evaporated  and  the  liquid  becomes  clear,  and 
the  pieces  of  fat  light-brown  and  shrivelled  in  appearance.  Stir  fre- 
quently to  prevent  the  fat  sticking  to  the  pan.  When  cool,  strain. 
This  amount  of  fat  should  produce  4  Ib.  of  clarified  fat.  The  fat  may 
be  cooked  or  uncooked,  and  a  small  quantity  may  be  more  conveniently 
clarified  in  a  jar  in  the  oven. 

Time. — From  2  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  4d.  per  Ib.  Quantity, 
6  Ib.  yields  4  Ib.  of  clarified  fat. 

945.  -TO  CLARIFY  BEEF  DRIPPING. 

Put  the  drippini;  into  an  old  iron  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water, 
and  boil  tu  i  for  £  an  hour.  Cool  slightly,  then  pour  into  an 

earthenware  vessel,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  cold  and  firm  scrape  the  iin- 
puriiies  from  the  under  surface,  and  re-heat,  to  evaporate  all  water.  If 
the  fat  is  left  on  the  water,  after  it  is  set,  it  will  absorb  some  of  the 


542  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

946     TO  SALT   BEEF.     (See  Recipe  No.  913.) 

947.— TO  SALT  BEEF,  DUTCH  WAY.       (Fr.— Boeuf 
Sale,  a  la  Holland aise.) 

Ingredients. — 10  Ib.  of  round  or  brisket  of  beef,  i  Ib.  of  common  salt 
i  Ib.  of  treacle,  i  oz.  of  saltpetre. 

Method. — Rub  the  beef  well  with  the  treacle,  let  it  remain  for  3  days, 
meanwhile  turning  and  rubbing  it  frequently,  then  drain  and  wipe  dry. 
Mix  the  salt  and  saltpetre  together,  rub  the  mixture  well  into  the  meat, 
and  turn  it  daily  for  10  days.  Roll  tightly  in  a  coarse  cloth,  place  under 
heavy  pressure  for  2  days,  and  afterwards  let  it  hang  in  the  smoke  from 
a  peat  or  wood  fire  for  14  days.  Boil  or  braise  in  the  usual  way,  press 
until  cold,  then  glaze  and  serve. 

Time. — 29  days.  Average  Cost,  6£d.  to  pd.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 


SHEEP  AND  LAMB. 


CHAPTER    XVII 

General   Observations  on  the   various  breeds,  Colonial 
Sheep,  manner  of  cutting  up,  table  of  prices,  etc. 

The  origin  of  domesticated  sheep  is  by  no  means  clear,  although 
much  pains  has  been  taken  by  naturalists  to  trace  their  history.  In 
•.haustive  treatise  on  sheep  by  William  Youatt,  published  in  1837, 
an  interesting  account  is  given  of  both  wild  and  domesticated  sheep, 
and  the  reader  is  carried  back  to  the  time  of  Abel,  who  sacrificed  "  the 
first  lings  of  his  flock."  The  constant  allusions  to  sheep  in  the  book  of 
(HIH<IS  are  remarkable,  and  the  patriarch  Jacob  was  a  successful 
breeder.  The  whiteness  of  the  wool  is  emphasized  in  several  passages 
of  the  Old  Testament,  and  Gideon's  fleece  was  used  as  a  prophetic  sign. 
Homer  sang  of  sheep,  and  Moses  attended  the  flocks  of  Jethro.  The 
shepherd  kings  conquered  Egypt,  and  the  patriarchs  were  warned  by 
their  brother  Joseph  to  speak  of  themselves  to  Pharaoh  as  understand- 
ing "  cattle  "  because  "every  shepherd  is  an  abomination  unto  the 
Egyptians."  Nevertheless  a  few  verses  on  we  read  that  when  Pharaoh 
asked  What  is  your  occupation  ?  "  the  honest  reply  was  "  Thy  ser- 
vants are  shepherds,  both  we  and  also  our  fathers."  Sheep  in  that 
early  period  were  in  many  respects  similar  to  what  they  are  now. 
The  most  esteemed  wool  was  white,  the  lambs  and  rams  were  fat.  the 
flocks  were  tended,  washed,  shorn  and  milked.  Lambs  without  spot 
or  blemish  were  sacrificed  to  Jehovah,  and  rams'  skins  dyed  red  were 
UM -d  in  embellishing  the  Tabernacle  of  the  congregation. 

WILD  SHEEP. 

Truly   wild   sheep  such  as  Ovis  ammon  or  argae,  Ovis  tnusmon,  etc., 

do  not  appear  to  be  the  progenitors  of  Ovis  aries  or  the  domesticated 

sheep,  the  wild  types  of  which  seem  to  have  disappeared  completely. 

roat  naturalist  Darwin  was  unable  to  throw  any  light  on  the 

of  our  sheep,  and  despairingly  remarks:  "  Most  authors  look  at 

our  di.imstii:  sheep  as  descended  from  several  distinct  species.     Mr. 


544  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Blyth,  who  has  carefully  attended  to  this  subject,  believes  that  four- 
teen wild  species  now  exist,  but  that  not  one  of  them  can  be  identified 
as  the  progenitor  of  any  one  of  the  interminable  domestic  races.  M. 
Gervais  thinks  that  there  are  six  species  of  Ovis,  but  that  our  domestic 
sheep  form  a  distinct  genus  now  completely  extinct.  Dr.  L.  Fitzinger 
believes  that  our  sheep  descend  from  the  aboriginally  distinct  species, 
of  which  only  one  is  now  living  in  a  wild  state.  Another  ingenious 
observer,  though  not  a  naturalist,  with  a  bold  defiance  of  everything 
known  on  geographical  distribution,  infers  that  the  sheep  of  Great 
Britain  alone  are  the  descendants  of  eleven  endemic  forms  "  (Dar- 
win's "Animals  and  plants  under  Domestication  "). 

It  would  evidently  be  foreign  to  our  present  object  to  describe  any 
truly  wild  sheep,  as  they  are  not  known  to  be  in  any  way  connected 
with  domestic  sheep,  except  biologically  or  generically. 

DOMESTICATED  SHEEP. 

No  doubt  these  are  descended  from  wild  forms,  which  at  an  early 
period  in  human  history  were  reclaimed  and  domesticated,  and  it  is 
probable  that  the  original  types  were  fitted  for  the  purposes  of  man 
and  capable  of  improvement.  Zoologically,  they  belonged  to  the 
great  natural  order  RUMINANTIA,  and  to  the  division  of  the  hollow- 
horned  ruminants,  among  which  are  to  be  found  oxen,  antelopes  and 
goats  (capridae).  The  Ovidae  are  closely  related  to  the  Capridae, 
but  have  no  beard,  and  differ  in  voice  and  habits.  The  peculiar  bleat 
of  the  sheep  is  common  to  all  races,  as  is  also  their  dense  covering  of 
wool.  In  some  races  the  wool  is  largely  mingled  with  hair,  and  it  is 
certain  that  the  fineness  and  whiteness  of  the  wool  is  the  result  of  care- 
ful breeding  for  probably  thousands  of  years.  Many  unimproved 
breeds  are  parti-coloured,  as  was  evidently  the  case  in  the  time  of 
Jacob,  where  we  read  of  "  ring-straked,  spotted  and  speckled."  It  is 
proverbial  that  there  is  a  black  sheep  in  every  flock,  and  the  constant 
recurrence  of  black,  grey  and  reddish  fleeces  even  in  the  most  carefully 
bred  flocks  attests  the  fact  that  at  one  time  they  were  much  more 
common  than  now.  Many  lambs  are  born  black  or  dark  in  colour, 
although  they  grow  white  later  in  life,  and  this  is  in  accordance  with 
the  observation  that  young  animals  often  exhibit  markings  and  peculi- 
arities of  very  remote  ancestors. 

If  we  confine  ourselves  to  British  races  of  sheep  we  shall  find  among 
them  almost  every  characteristic  of  the  domesticated  animal.  Many 
of  them  are  horned,  as  in  the  cases  of  the  Highland  black-faced  breed, 
the  Lonk,  the  Crag  or  Limestone,  the  Dorset  and  the  old  Wiltshire 
breed.  Others  are  hornless,  like  the  Leicesters,  Lincolns,  Downs, 
Oxfords  and  Shropshires,  but  in  all  breeds  there  are  occasional  rudi- 
mentary or  defective  horns  known  as  "  snags."  There  can  be  no 
doubt  that  all  our  breeds  were  originally  horned.  The  faces  and 
shanks  are  white,  black,  piebald,  grey  or  russet,  according  to  race, 


c 

c 


c 
^ 
2 


w 

H 

a 

w 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS   ON    SHEEP          545 

and  the  fleeces  are  long,  medium,  short,  close  or  open,  fine  or  coarse. 
THE  PRINCIPAL  BREEDS. 

If  we  take  a  survey  from  the  extreme  north  to  the  south  coast,  \\c 
shall  iind  the  following  races  of  sheep  in  possession.  The  remoter 
parts  of  Scotland,  such  as  the  islands  of  Arran,  Islay,  Jura,  the  Orkneys 
and  Shctlands  are  still  inhabited  by  sheep-  of  small  size  of  various 
colours,  some  being  dun-faced,  others  white-faced  and  horned,  others 
dark,  black,  or  russet  in  colour.  These  are  apparently  indigenous,  or, 
as  in  the  case  of  Shetland  sheep,  derived  from  Scandinavia.  Shetland 
wool  is  well  known  for  its  fineness,  and  is  esteemed  for  the  manufacture 
of  shawls,  stockings,  and  for  all  light  woollen  manufactures.  Argyll- 
shire and  most  of  the  black  or  heath  lands  of  the  Highlands,  are  now 
stocked  with  the  Heath  or  Black-faced  breed,  which  is  aimed  in  both 
with  horns.  The  faces  and  legs  are  black  and  white,  clearly 
defined  ;  the  fleece  is  long  and  mixed  with  hair  along  the  back  ;  the 
form  is  short  and  the  general  character  active,  bold  and  hardy.  They 
"ii  grass  and  heather,  and  the  flesh  derives  a  pleasant  flavour 
from  the  latter.  The  black-faced  sheep  has  displaced  the  original 
smaller  breeds  throughout  the  Highlands,  and  as  far  south  as  Dum- 
friesshire. It  occupies  the  extensive  moors  of  Northumberland 
extends  into  Derbyshire,  and  it  is  highly  esteemed  in  the  mountainous 
regions  of  N.  Wales. 

The  Cheviot  breed  of  sheep  is  short  woollcd  and  usually  hornless. 
Its  original  home  is  the  Great  Cheviot,  but  it  is  largely  kept  on  the  1  .<  >w- 
lands,  both  north  and  south  of  Cheviot.  This  sheep  is  extremely 
hardy,  and  does  well  upon  the  lower  ranges  of  the  Scotch  Highlands 
wherever  grass  abounds  ;  but  when  heather  takes  the  place  01 
the  black  faces  predominate.  A  cross  between  Cheviot  and  BonU-r- 
Lcicestcr  is  much  in  favour  throughout  the  Lowlands,  and  in  the 
northern  counties  of  England. 

The  Border-Leicester  is  well  known  in  Berwickshire,  Roxburgh  and 
Northumberland,  both  as  a  pure  breed  and  for  crossing  with  both 
Cheviot  and  black-faced  ewes.  The  former  gives  an  excellent 
which  fattens  more  rapidly  than  the  Cheviot.  The  latter  gives  the 
"  mule  "  or  Mash.im  sheep,  which  thrives  well  upon  the  poorer  classes 
of  grass  land  in  Yorkshire,  Durham  and  Northumberland. 

In  Yorkshire  the  true  Leicester  occurs  in  perfection,  but  this  1 

o  found  in  its  native  county,  and  is  the  premier  breed  of  the 
country  in  point  of  age  as  its  improvement  was  carried  out  by  Robert 
Bakowell  of  Dishlcy,  Loughborough,  in  the  middle  years  of  the  eight- 
eenth century.  The  Improved  Leicester  breed  has  been  more  < 
sivcly  used  than  any  other  long  woolled  race  in  improving  other  breeds 
of  similar  character  of  wool.  The  improved  Lincoln.  Romney  Marsh. 
Kentish  long-wools,  Devon  long-wools  and  Cotswolds  were  all  crossed 
with  !  ^'u\  the  earlier  years  of  the  last  century  or  previously. 

T 


546  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

The  mutton  is  rather  coarse  and  the  fat  is  laid  on  too  thickly  ;  but  for 
crossing  purposes  the  breed  has  been  very  useful. 

In  Lincolnshire  the  Improved  Lincoln  is  the  predominant  breed, 
especially  in  the  low-lying  rich  lands  of  the  south.  It  is  a  white-faced 
hornless  breed,  and  in  this  respect  closely  resembles  the  Leicester. 
It  is  of  much  larger  size,  and  is  probably  the  heaviest  sheep  in  the 
world.  Lincoln  sheep  have  often  attained  a  weight  of  90  Ib.  a  quarter 
or  360  Ib.  carcass  weight,  while  their  wool  has  been  known  to  measure 
23  inches  in  length,  and  the  fleeces  have  scaled  as  heavy  as  23  Ib.  of 
wool.  This  sheep  is  adapted  for  the  rich  marshes  of  the  fen  districts, 
and  requires  good  land.  Its  wool  has  received  the  appellation  of 
"  lustre,"  from  its  glistening  brilliance  where  severed  from  the  body. 
The  Lincoln  sheep  is  too  heavy  in  the  carcass  and  too  fat  to  please  the 
taste  of  epicures.  In  the  days  when  wool  sold  at  is.  6d.  to  2s.  a  pound, 
a  Lincoln  teg  in  his  wool  was  worth  ^5,  and  even  now  Lincoln  rams 
from  the  best  flocks  have  been  sold  for  hundreds  of  pounds  each. 
There  is  a  great  export  trade  for  the  rams  to  Argentina  and  Australia, 
as  the  Lincoln-Merino  is  a  profitable  cross,  combining  the  properties 
of  both  flesh  and  wool  to  a  high  degree. 

In  the  Midlands  of  England  Shropshire  sheep  are  the  favourite  breed. 
They  are  of  composite  origin,  being  derived  from  Shropshire  ewes 
crossed  successively  with  Leicester  and  South  Downs.  They  now 
constitute  an  established  race  of  medium  woolled,  dark-faced,  hornless 
sheep,  of  thick  and  substantial  form,  and  yielding  mutton  of  superior 
quality. 

The  Oxford  breed  was  originally  derived  by  crossing  Cotswolds  and 
Hampshire  Downs,  and  the  produce  were  long  known  as  cross-breds. 
The  credit  is  due  to  the  late  Mr.  John  Twynam,  and  the  Messrs.  Druce 
of  Eynsham.  The  Oxfords  are  not  so  widely  distributed  as  the  Shrop- 
shires,  but  they  breed  largely  in  Oxfordshire  and  contiguous  counties. 
In  many  respects  they  resemble  Shropshires,  but  are  easily  distin- 
guished by  their  longer  ears  and  freedom  from  wrinkles  on  the  neck 
and  around  the  under-jaw. 

The  Cotswold  breed  of  sheep  has  long  been  associated  with  the  Cots- 
wold  hills,  which  rise  above  Cheltenham  and  extend  through  north 
Gloucestershire  into  Oxfordshire  and  Worcestershire.  It  is  an  up- 
standing, white-faced,  hornless  sheep,  with  a  boldly  curling  fleece, 
and,  like  all  the  heavy  breeds  of  long-woolled  sheep,  its  mutton  does 
not  command  the  highest  price.  It  is  however  highly  esteemed  upon 
its  native  hills,  and  is  no  doubt  the  result  of  Leicester  crosses  upon 
the  older  breed  which  occupied  Cotswold. 

Among  other  long-woolled  sheep,  the  Devon  long  wools,  the  Kentish 
long  wools,  the  Romney  Marsh  and  the  Worsleydale  all  deserve  notice, 
and  all  three  closely  resemble  Lincoln  sheep. 

DOWN  BREEDS. 
The  South  Down  or  Sussex  Down  stands  out  pre-eminently  as  the  best 


GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    ON    SHEEP  547 

known  of  all  the  Down  races  of  sheep.  It  was  improved  by  the  elder 
and  younger  Ellmans  of  Glynde,  and  was  considered  in  the  time  of 
George  III  to  be  a  perfect  sheep  for  wool  and  mutton,  size  and  quality. 
Four-year-old  South  Down  mutton  was  the  food  of  kings  and  nobles, 
and  is  still  unrivalled  except  by  some  of  the  smaller  \Yclsh  and  Devon 
breeds.  The  South  Down  is  a  hornless  sheep  with  fawn-coloured 
face  and  legs.  His  form  is  singularly  compact,  and  his  carcass  is  always 
heavier  than  it  looks.  His  original  home  is  the  Sussex  Downs,  north 
of  Brighton,  and  it  is  there  that  he  attains  the  highest  perfection. 
The  breed  has  always  been  a  favourite,  and  King  Edward  VII  is  a 
breeder  of  excellent  South  Downs.  So  was  the  late  Duke  of  Kuh- 
mond,  the  present  Lord  Walsingham,  and  many  distinguished  gentle- 
men. After  the  Kllmans,  the  late  Jonas  Webb,  of  Babrah.im.  Cam- 
bridgeshire, deserves  special  notice  as  an  improver  of  this  invaluable 
bir< -<l  of  sheep.  What  the  Leicester  sheep  was  to  the  older  long- 
woolled  races  of  sheep,  the  South  Down  has  been  to  the  numerous 
Down  breeds,  which  in  the  time  of  Youatt  occupied  every  chalk  county 
in  England.  At  that  time  Kent,  Essex,  Bucks,  Berks,  Surrey,  Sussex, 
Hants,  etc.,  all  boasted  breeds  of  Down  sheep,  but  the  South  Down  left 
an  impress  which  obliterated  most  of  these  distinctions.  He  was 
crossed  repeatedly  upon  the  flocks  of  these  counties,  including  Hamp- 
shire and  Wilts,  and  the  consequence  is  that  at  the  present  tim  •  there 
are  only  three  types  of  Downs,  namely,  the  Sussex  Down,  the  Hamp- 
shire Down,  and  the  Suffolk  Down,  all  of  which  owe  their  perfection  to 

I  with  the  South  Down.  The  same  is  true  of  Shropshire  and 
Oxford  sheep,  so  that  the  Sussex  Down  must  be  credited  with  having 
improved  all  the  Down  breeds  of  the  country. 

Hampshire  Downs. — These  were  formerly  called  West-country  Downs, 
because  they  were  originally  found  west  of  the  South  Downs  upon    he 
chalk  hills  of  Hampshire.     They  were  freely  crossed  with  South  ! 
and  notably  by  Mr.  Humphries  of  Oakash,  Berks,  who  is  look^  '.  upon 
as  the  immediate  founder  of  the  Improved  Hampshire  Down.      : 
is  of  larger  build  than  the  South  Down  and  darker  features.     The  best 

arc  almost  black  in  face  and  legs,  hornless  (as  every  breed  in 
in  this  review  not  described  as  horned  may  be  assumed  to  be),  and 
well  rovercd  upon  tin-  head  with  white  wool.  "Well  coloured  and 
well  covered  "  is  one  of  the  watchwords  of  the  Hampshire  Down 

r  ;  and  sheep  which  can  be  so  described  are  always  admired. 
They  an  very  hardy  and  well  suited  for  the  high  and  exposed  uplands 
of  Wilts  and  Hants.  Tiny  arc  however  by  no  means  confn: 

but  arc  found  cither  pure  or  crossed  in  all  parts  of  the 
country.      Hampslr  have    recently    made    100   guineas    each, 

•tnd   (!  higher  price.     They  yield  cood   fleeces  and  fin 

mutton,  and  are  every  inu  in   favour  for  exportation. 

Suffolk   Downs.- The  Sultolk   nun  arc  justly  proud  of  their  «  ounty 
ilthouuh   tin-re  can  be  little  doubt  that  it  \vaj  e 


54$         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

with  the  Sussex  Down,  is  now  a  distinct  or  constituted  breed.  The 
distinguishing  features  are  black  faces  and  black  shanks,  and  the  head 
is  bare  of  wool  even  behind  the  ears.  This  at  once  distinguishes  them 
from  Hampshire  Downs.  They  have  no  horns,  and  the  wool  and 
mutton  are  of  excellent  quality.  There  is  no  better  breed,  but  space 
scarcely  allows  of  extended  remarks  upon  this,  the  third  true  Down 
sheep  requiring  rotice. 

The  Dorset  Horn. — The  Dorset  horned  sheep  is  chiefly  found  in  South 
Hants,  the  Isle  of  Wight  and  on  the  south  coast.  It  is  a  white-faced 
breed,  horned  in  both  sexes,  and  covered  with  fine  white  wool.  Its 
chief  distinction  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  produces  the  earliest  lamb  for 
the  London  market.  The  ewes  drop  their  lambs  in  September  and 
later,  and  the  greatest  pains  is  taken  in  order  to  provide  fat  lambs 
about  Christmas.  This  form  of  sheep-farming  requires  a  breed  adapted 
to  the  purpose  and  a  favourable  climate,  and  both  these  conditions 
are  supplied  by  the  Dorset  sheep  and  the  Dorsetshire  soil. 

MOUNTAIN  AND  FOREST  BREEDS. 

The  Scotch  black  faces  have  already  received  attention,  and  must 
rank  as  the  widest  in  distribution  of  any  mountain  or  forest  breed. 
As.  however,  several  of  the  less  known  breeds  are  highly  appreciated  for 
the  fineness  of  their  flesh,  and  its  delicate  and  close-grained  quality, 
a  short  space  must  be  devoted  to  them.  Welsh  mutton  stands  high 
in  public  estimation,  and  is  furnished  by  the  small  white-faced  horn- 
less sheep  of  the  Principality,  which  attains  a  weight  of  9  to  10  Ib.  a 
quarter. 

Dartmoor  and  Exmoor  Sheep. — Although  the  sheep  of  Dartmoor  and 
Exmoor  have  been  modified  by  Leicester  crosses,  there  still  remains 
the  original  small-horned  white-faced  sheep,  which  resembles  a  diminu- 
tive Dorset,  weighing  9  to  12  Ib.  per  quarter.  This  produces  the 
celebrated  Okehampton  mutton,  which  always  commands  a  high  price 
in  London. 

Clun  Forest  Sheep,  etc. — These  are  a  white-faced  hornless  breed 
of  small  size,  and  may  be  named  in  connexion  with  the  black- faced 
horned  Long  Mynd  breed,  and  fine-woolled  Morfe  common  horn;  <1. 
speckled-faced  sheep,  which  is  said  to  have  been  used  in  bringing  out 
the  better  known  Shropshire  breed  of  sheep. 

The  Herdwick  Sheep. — This  is  a  race  which  is  cultivated  in  West- 
moreland, Cumberland  and  the  Lake  district.  It  is  highly  popular 
in  these  districts,  and  the  lambs  are  born  with  black  heads  and  1< vt. 
but  gradually  become  white  as  they  grow  older.  Horns  arc  not  essen- 
tial, although  they  arc  frequent  in  the  rams,  but  the  ewes  are  hornl.  s ;. 
The  Herdwick  sheep  exhibited  at  Chester  in  1893  were  often  dark  in 
the  wool,  and  the  second  prize  ram  was  nearly  black.  Swart  liinoss 
in  the  wool  did  not  appear  to  disqualify  in  the  eyes  of  the  judges. 

Lonk  Sheep. — These  sheep  resemble  the  Scotch  black-faced  breed, 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS   ON    SHEEP  549 

but  their  wool  is  much  finer,  probably  due  to  South  Down  crosses  at 
an  early  period. 

Crag  or  Limestone  Sheep. — Both  sexes  are  horned,  and  the  faces* 
shanks  and  fleeces  are  white.  They  stand  drought  remarkably  well, 
and  do  not  require  water.  They  are  found  upon  the  mountain  lime- 
stone tracts  of  West  Yorkshire  and  East  Lancashire,  and  form  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  Lonks,  which  do  better  upon  the  damper  and  lower 
grounds  of  these  dales. 

Welsh  Sheep. — These  are  very  various  in  character.  Some  arc  white 
faced  and  furnished  with  horns,  while  others  are  hornless.  The  best 
type  of  Radnors  are  black-faced,  and  the  rams  are  horned.  They 
are  all  of  small  size,  and  are  esteemed  for  the  superior  quality  of  their 
mutton.  Small  joints  and  a  weight  of  from  9  to  14  or  15  Ib.  a  quarter, 
coupled  with  meat  of  a  fine  grain  and  dark  colour,  are  their  principal 
attractions. 

Reviewing  these  numerous  breeds  of  sheep,  it  is  interesting  to  inquire 
the  reasons  why  they  differ  from  each  other  so  widely.  There  can  be 
no  doubt  that  several  of  these  races  spring  from  distinct  species  which 
at  one  time  existed  in  the  wild  state.  Domestication,  however,  always 
tends  to  variation  of  type,  as  was  originally  pointed  out  by  the  natur- 
alist Pallas.  No  sooner  is  an  animal  or  plant  placed  under  artifu  ial 
conditions  than  it  ceases  to  breed  true.  This  fact  is  proved  by 
domesticated  animal  and  cultivated  plant.  Even  our  pets,  such  as 
cage-birds,  pigeons,  poultry,  dogs,  cats,  rabbits,  mice,  rats,  etc.,  produ.-.- 
young  which  break  into  new  colours  and  new  properties.  The  uni- 
formity of  Nature  is  disturbed  and  variation  is  the  result,  and  that  in 
almost  every  conceivable  direction.  It  is  the  same  with  cultivated 
plants,  and  is  due,  in  a  word,  to  artificial  conditions.  Still,  the  natural 
disposition  of  like  to  produce  like  holds  good,  and  as  a  consequence  the 
peculiarity  or  variation  is  continued  and  may  be  exaggerated  by 
selection.  In  the  next  place,  crossing  established, sub-varieties,  pro- 
ducing still  more  forms,  and  the  breeder's  art  assisted  in  dev<  1 
those  characters  which  he  desired  to  see  perpetuated. 

Selection  and  crossing  are  answerable  for  a  large  number,  if  not  all. 
of  our  races,  but  soil  and  climate  are  still  always  acting  in  further 
modifying  types.  It  is  remarkable  that  domesticated  animals  as  well 
as  plants  which  have  escaped  from  artificial  restraint,  gradually  return 
to  their  original  type,  or  at  least  to  uniformity  of  colour,  size  and  habits. 
In  sheep  the  principal  objects  of  the  breeder  are  the  development  of 
flesh  and  wool,  but  in  this  treatise  meat  is  of  the  greater  importance. 

Quality  of  Mutton. — The  best  mutton  is  generally  associated  with  the 
smaller  breeds  of  sheep,  on  account  of  the  finer  texture  of  the  muscular 
fibres  which  constitute  the  lean  meat.  These  small  sheep  arc  found 
win- re  the  herbage  is  short,  sweet  and  varied,  and  where  the  animal 
must  exert  itself  to  find  its  food.  Exercise  leads  to  muscular  develop- 
ment, and  is  unfavourable  to  the  accumulation  of  mass  of  fat.  The 


550         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

flesh  closely  resembles  venison  or  game,  and  is  rich  in  muscle  (lean), 
and  not  disfigured  by  fat.  Hence  all  mountain  and  heath  sheep  pro- 
duce a  high  quality  of  mutton.  Short  wool  and  fine  mutton  generally  go 
together,  and  in  most  of  the  best  mutton  races  the  face  and  shanks  are 
coloured  black,  brown  or  grey.  The  Down  breeds  have  all  roamed 
over  sweet  and  scant  herbage  for  centuries,  and  have  acquired  a  mus- 
cular development  and  fineness  of  fibre  common  to  them  all.  The 
long-woolled  races  above  described  have  developed  heavier  fleeces, 
larger  frames,  and  coarser  flesh  by  grazing  on  rich  lowlands,  and  by 
artificial  feeding  in  winter.  They  lay  their  fat  on  externally  on  their 
backs  and  loins,  and  never  handle  so  firmly  as  Down  or  Forest-bred 
sheep.  The  two  classes  of  long-woolled  and  short-woolled  sheep  differ 
in  the  following  points  : — 

Long-Woolled  Sheep.  Short-Woolled  Sheep. 

Heavier  carcasses.  Lighter  carcasses. 

Longer  wool.  Shorter  wool. 

White  faces  and  shanks.  Brown  faces  and  shanks. 

Coarser  mutton.  Finer  mutton. 

Fat,  external  and  unduly  de-  Fat,  internal  and  better  mixed  with 

veloped.  the  lean. 

Adapted  for  lowlands.  Adapted  for  highlands. 

Age  has  a  great  deal  to  do  with  the  quality  of  meat,  as  is  well  shown 
by  the  expression  "  four-year-old  mutton."  This  is  considered  the 
age  for  producing  the  highest  quality  of  dark-grained  tender  flesh, 
but  the  exigencies  of  modern  farming  have  rendered  it  necessary  to 
lower  the  age,  and  most  mutton  is  now  killed  at  from  ten  to  sixteen 
months  old.  In  parks  and  demesnes  it  is  still  usual  to  hold  back  the 
smaller  wethers  to  grow  slowly  into  mutton  for  the  private  table  of 
their  wealthy  owners. 

Sex  too  is  important.  Wether  mutton,  or  the  flesh  of  the  castrated 
male,  is  in  the  highest  repute,  although  scarcely  superior  to  young 
female  mutton.  Rams  are  always  coarse  in  flesh  and  of  inferior  value 
after  six  months  old,  and  acquire  a  strong  flavour.  Ewe  mutton  is 
also  inferior,  not  on  account  of  its  age,  which  is  generally  only  three 
or  four  years,  but  because  bearing  and  suckling  lambs  dries  the  flesh 
and  renders  it  less  juicy  and  palatable. 

Feeding  exercises  a  very  marked  effect  upon  the  meat.  Turnips 
and  oil-cake  develop  fat  to  an  undue  degree,  and  impart  a  coarseness 
not  found  in  grass-  or  mountain-fed  meat. 

Lamb  is  always  highly  esteemed  and  commands  a  high  price.  It 
should  be  milk-fed  and  fattened  while  with  the  dam.  The  fat  of  lambs 
is  never  distasteful. 

The  best  weight  for  carcasses  is  from  16  to  20  Ib.  per  quarter,  and 
heavy  mutton  is  always  less  saleable.  Some  of  the  most  esteemed 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS   ON  LAMBS  551 

mutton  is  from  the  smaller  breeds,  which  only  scale  from  9  to  15  Ib. 
per  quarter,  and  the  legs  only  about  4^  Ib. 

Foreign  Mutton. — New  Zealand  Mutton  and  Canterbury  Lamb  are 
now  sold  everywhere  at  prices  much  below  English-grown  meat.  The 
freezing  process  to  which  the  carcasses  are  subjected  does  not  improve 
the  quality  of  the  meat,  and  there  is  a  good  deal  more  shrinkage  in 
cooking.  There  is  some  prejudice  among  many  people  against  it, 
which  may  be  well-founded.  It  certainly  is  cheap,  while  the  best 
qualities  of  English  mutton  maintain  their  price.  The  effect  upon 
the  price  of  second  and  third  qualities  of  home-produced  meat  has 
been  more  pronounced. 

GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  LAMBS. 

The  lambing  season  in  this  country  commences  with  the  new  year. 
In  all  high-class  flocks  where  rams  are  bred,  and  in  all  flocks  where 
the  production  of  fat  lamb  is  a  principal  object,  lambing  must  be 
early,  and  in  some  cases  is  well  forward  by  Christmas.  The  natural 
disposition  is,  no  doubt,  for  ewes  to  produce  young  in  the  spring,  but 
in  the  artificial  conditions  in  which  domestic  sheep  are  placed,  some 
breeds  will  lamb  as  early  as  September  and  October.  Among  these, 
Dorset  ewes  are  the  best  known,  and  arc  the  source  of  the  earliest 
lamb  which  supplies  the  London  market.  Lambs  are  wonderfully 
hardy,  and  upon  the  Wiltshire  and  Hampshire  Downs  are  to  be  seen 
playing  around  the  lambing  pens  in  large  numbers  in  January  and 
February.  For  the  first  three  weeks  or  so  they  require  shelter  from 
bitter  winds  and  driving  snow,  and  this  is  easily  provided  by  thatched 
hurdles  and  ricks  of  straw  or  hay,  conveniently  placed  to  give  the 
necessary  "  succour."  This  in  fact  constitutes  the  "  lambing  pen," 
which  is  a  temporary  erection  of  the  nature  indicated.  It  is  often  of 
large  size  and  divided  into  straw-littered  courts  for  the  latest  dropped 
and  the  stronger  lambs,  according  to  age.  The  twin  lambs  require 
more  shelter  and  care  than  the  robuster  single  lambs.  When  fat 
lambs  are  the  object,  the  ewes  arc  liberally  supplied  with  oil-cake 
and  corn,  in  order  to  stimulate  the  flow  of  milk,  and  at  the  earliest 
possible  age  the  lambs  are  encouraged  to  feed  out  of  small  troughs 
upon  finely-ground  linseed  cake  and  split  peas  or  beans.  They  are 
llowed  to  run  forward  through  lamb  creeps,  in  order  to  crop  the" 
turnip  greens,  early  rye,  and  other  succulent  herbage.  Everything  is 
done  to  develop  flesh,  and  at  this  stage  lambs  will  increase  in  weight 
at  the  rate  of  i  Ib.  per  day.  At  ten  or  twelve  weeks  old  such  lambs 
will  weigh  of  dressed  carcass  about  10  to  12  Ib.  per  quarter.  Hamp- 
Down  lambs  are  well  suited  for  the  purpose  of  providing  early 
lamb,  but  several  other  breeds  may  be  successfully  employed  for  the 
same  purpose.  On  the  south  coast  and  in  the  Isle  of  Wight  the  raising 
of  fat  lambs  is  a  special  industry,  and  the  ewes  are  timed  to  drop  their 


552  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

lambs  in  September.     In  many  cases  the  lambs  are  placed  in  houses,, 
and  the  ewes  are  allowed  frequent  access  to  the  lambs,  but  do  not- 
femaifl  constantly  with  them.     Lambs  command  a  high  price  in  the 
early  months  oi  the  new  year,  but  as  the  season  progresses  they  gradu- 
ally approximate  tb  mutton  price,  so  that  the  great  object  of  the; 
pfodtfce*  of  fat  lambs  is  to  market  his  lambs  as  soon  as  possible. 

In  the  £arly  part  of  the  season,  however  reared,  lamb  is,  in  London, 
and  indeed  generally,  sold  in  quarters,  divided  with  12  ribs  to  the  fore- 
quarter  ;  but,  a^  the  season  advances,  these  are  subdivided  into  two, 
and  the  hind-q,uarter  -in  the  same  manner  ;  the  first  consisting  of  the 
shoulder  and'^he'  fleck  and  breast,  the  latter  of  the  leg  and  the  loin — 
as  shown  in  the  cut  illustrative  of  mutton.  As  lamb,  from  the  juicy 
nature  of  its  flesh,  is  especially  liable  to  spoil  in  unfavourable  weather, 
it  should  be  frequently  wiped,  so  as  to  remove  any  moisture  which 
may  have  formed  on  it. 

Price  of  Meat. — In  calculating  the  selling  price  of  any  meat,  what 
is  called  the  "  offal,"  i.e.,  the  skin  and  inside,  are  calculated  into  the 
price"  of  the  animal.  The  price  of  any  commodity,  and  of  meat  dead 
or  alive,  may  be  seen  quoted  every  day  in  the  newspaper  market  lists  ; 
and  it  would  be  well  if  consumers  studied  and  understood  these  a  little 
better  than  is  usually  the  case.  Another  fact  they  might  learn  with 
advantage  is  the  difference  of  price  between  the  best  meat  and  the 
second  or  third  quality.  Very  few  persons  eat  always  the  best  meat,, 
for  the  reason  that  it  is  not  sufficiently  plentiful,  and  perhaps  ever* 
fewer  people  pay  second-best  prices  or  expect  to  pay  them. 

As  already  pointed  out,  second  quality  meat  does  not  necessarily 
mean  unwholesome  meat,  or  indeed  worse  meat  than  most  people 
are  contented  with. 

Season  for  Mutton. — Mutton  is  in  season  all  the  year  round,  different 
counties  producing  sheep  for  the  market  at  various  seasons;  but  just 
as  beef  is  said  to  be  in  its  prime  when  French  beans  are  in,  i.e.,  when 
the  pastures  are  greenest  and  freshest,  so  mutton  is  in  best  condition 
when  grass  is  plentiful,  rather  than  when  it  is  fattened  entirely  on 
roots  and  cake. 

Mutton  is  often  thought  more  digestible  than  beef,  and  is  therefore 
prescribed  for  invalids,  but  a  matter  such  as  this  must  be  decided  by 
individual  idiosyncrasy  rather  than  rule.  It  is  always  thought  to 
be  less  satisfying,  and  as  it  is  impossible  to  buy  a  solid  lump  of  boneless 
mutton,  it  is  no  doubt,  on  that  account  also,  less  economical, 

Relative  Cost. — In  reckoning  the  cost  of  various  joints  as  compared 
with  one  another,  we  have  assumed  that  leg  and  loin  are  the  same  price, 
and  that  18  ozs.  of  either  can  be  bought  for  a  shilling,  and  that  I  ho 
shoulder  and  best  end  of  the  neck  arc  both  sold  at  20  ozs.  (i^  Ib.) 
for  a  shilling.  The  loin  has  more  bone  than  the  leg,  3  ozs.  instead 
of  2|  ozs.  in  each  shilling's  worth  of  meat,  and  the  loin  also  is  very  fat, 
§p  tha.t  although  it  is  nice  it  is  not  cheap.  The  shouldef  has  ihc  saim- 


GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    ON    LAMBS 


553 


proportion  of  bone  as  -the  loin,  and  the  neck  most  of  all,  4  ozs.  in  every 
shilling's  worth  of  meat,  and  is  even  fatter  than  the  loin.  Boiled  or 
roasted,  the  neck  is  not  a  very  cheap  joint  ;  but  trimmed  into  cutlets, 
with  all  the  fat  removed,  it  is  probably  the  dearest  butchers'  meat 
that  can  be  eaten. 

Competition  remains  at  length  between  15^  ozs.  of  leg  against  17  ozs. 
of  shoulder.  The  shoulder  is  fatter,  it  is  true,  and  if  it  is  sold  at  the 
same  price  as  the  leg,  is  dearer  in  every  way.  Sold  at  the  pri 
have  quoted,  it  appears  to  be  as  cheap  as,  or  cheaper  than,  the  leg 
if  the  fat  is  eaten.  Children  often  dislike  fat,  and  so  it  is  cheaper 
to  pay  a  little  more  for  a  lean  joint  for  children.  On  the  other  hand, 
many  people  dislike  a  shoulder  of  mutton,  and  prefer  a  leg. 


TABLE  OF   RELATIVE   PRICES  OP   BEEF   AND  MUTTON. 

AT  PER  STONE  WHOI.KS.M.I-:,  AND  VER  POUND  RETAIL. 


Pri(. 

Mutton. 

Beef. 

Ti,i 

Second 

Third 

nd 

First 

.ity. 

Utility. 

Uu-i!. 

ity. 

(Juolity. 

s.     d. 

S.      d. 

5.       d. 

s.      d. 

«.    •/. 

«.     J. 

«.      d. 

4     2 

o    i  ! 

o 

o     71 

o  xoj- 

4     4 

0 

o     9J 

o     41 

o     71 

o  io| 

4      <> 

0      (>} 

o     8J 

o    oj 

o     4i 

o     71 

o  io| 

4     8 

o    7 

o     9 

0    10 

o     5 

o    8 

0    II 

4  10 

o     7* 

o    9J 

o     51 

o     8J 

oil} 

5     ^ 

o     7* 

0    IOJ 

o     5i 

o  ni 

5     2 

o     71 

o    9} 

0    10} 

o     51 

o     8J 

O    11} 

5     4 

o    8 

O    10 

0    It 

o     6 

o     9 

0 

5     6 

o     8J 

o  10} 

O    IlJ 

o    6| 

o    9£ 

o|- 

5     8 

o     8i 

0    !•>  I 

0    Ili 

o    6i 

o    9i 

°i 

5   i" 

o     8} 

0    IOJ 

o  11} 

o     6| 

o    9] 

ol 

o     o 

0    II 

0 

o     7 

O    10 

I 

•6      2 

0     9i 

0    III 

oj 

o 

o  10} 

I  [ 

6     4 

o    9i 

O    Il| 

oi 

o  ioi 

Ii 

•6     6 

o    9! 

o  11} 

o     7i 

o  loj 

'6     8 

O    10 

0 

I 

o     8 

O    II 

- 

•  6  10 

0    I0l 

0} 

II 

o     81 

0    III 

2\ 

7     o 

o  ioi 

oi 

Ii 

o     8| 

o  ni 

2i 

7      2 

o  ioj 

oj 

Ij 

o     8} 

0    Ilf 

7     4 

0    II 

I 

2 

o     9 

0 

J 

7     6 

0    IlJ 

It 

H 

0     9( 

°t 

7     s 

o  III 

li 

N 

O     9| 

oi 

7   i° 

O    IlJ 

1} 

o     9l 

oj 

3i 

8     o 

I      O 

2 

3 

O    IO 

I 

4 

The  prices  of  meat  per  pound,  in  nl.ition  to  the  market  price  per 
stone  of  S  11).,  may  be  calculated  sufficiently  near  to  give  a  tolcr.ibly 


554         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

correct  idea  what  the  buyer  should  pay  for  meat  from  different  parts 
of  the  ox  or  sheep,  according  to  the  market  price.  The  butcher  pays 
a  certain  price  per  stone  for  the  whole  carcass  ;  but  as  the  different 
joints  of  the  sheep  or  bullock  differ  considerably  in  quality,  and  are 
classed  respectively  as  PRIME,  MIDDLING  and  INFERIOR  parts,  the  prices 
of  the  several  parts  are  raised  or  lowered  by  the  butcher,  above  or 
below  the  average  market  price  per  stone,  so  that  all  classes  of  pur- 
chasers may  be  suited,  and  the  sale  of  all  parts  of  the  animals  secured. 
Of  course,  the  butcher  takes  care  to  regulate  his  prices  so  as  to  secure 
a  remunerative  profit  on  his  outlay.  PRIME  parts  of  beef  are  sirloins, 
ribs  and  rounds  ;  of  mutton,  legs  and  loins.  MIDDLING  pieces  of  beef 
are  top  ribs,  back  ribs,  and  silverside  ;  of  mutton,  shoulders.  INFERIOR 
pieces  of  beef  are  shins,  brisket  and  flank,  clod,  or  shoulder,  sticking 
piece,  or  neck  ;  of  mutton,  necks  and  breasts.  The  prices  given  in 
the  table  are  such  as  would  be  paid  for  meat  of  the  best  quality.  The 
table  is  constructed  so  as  to  range  from  45.  2d.  to  8s.  per  stone  inclusive 
at  an  increase  of  2d.  per  stone,  or  £d.  per  pound  on  the  wholesale 
market  prices. 

The  Mode  of  Slaughtering  Sheep  is,  perhaps,  as  humane  and  expeditious 
a  process  as  could  be  adopted  to  attain  the  objects  sought ;  the  animal 
being  laid  on  its  side  in  a  sort  of  concave  stool,  the  butcher,  while 
pressing  the  body  with  his  knee,  transfixes  the  throat  near  the  angle 
of  the  jaw,  passing  the  knife  between  the  windpipe  and  bones  of  the 
neck,  thus  dividing  the  jugulars,  cartoids,  and  large  vessels,  death 
taking  place  very  rapidly  from  the  haemorrhage  which  follows. 

Manner  of  Cutting  up. — Almost  every  large  city  has  a  particular 
manner  of  cutting  up,  or,  as  it  is  called,  dressing  the  carcass.  In 
London  this  process  is  very  simple,  and  as  our  butchers  have  found 
that  much  skewering  back,  doubling  one  part  over  another,  or  scoring 
the  inner  cuticle  or  fell,  tends  to  spoil  the  meat  and  shorten  the  time 
it  would  otherwise  keep,  they  avoid  all  such  treatment.  The  sheep 
then  is  hung  up  and  the  carcass  flayed  (which  operation  is  performed 
while  yet  warm).  After  separating  the  hind  from  the  fore  quarters, 
with  eleven  ribs  to  the  latter,  the  quarters  are  usually  subdivided 
in  the  manner  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration. 

HlND-QUARTER.  FORE-QUARTF.R. 

I  Leg.  4.  Best  end  of  neck. 

2.  Loin.  5.  Scrag  end  of  neck. 

3.  Chump  end  of  loin.  6  and  8.  Shoulder   and   blade-bone. 

7.  Breast. 

(i)  Leg. — This  is  the  most  economical  joint  for  a  family  if  it  is  sold, 
as  is  usual,  at  only  one  penny  a  pound  more  than  the  shoulder,  for  unless 
there  is  a  considerable  difference  in  price,  it  docs  not  compensate 


GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    ON    SHEEP  555 

for  the  greater  proportion  of  bone  in  other  joints.  The  leg  of  a  sheep 
is  roughly  reckoned  to  weigh  as  many  pounds  as  the  whole  sheep 
weighs  in  stones.  Legs  can  be  bought  of  all  weights,  from  about 
5  Ib.  to  6  Ib.  Mutton  steaks  are  cut  from  the  leg. 

(2)  Loin. — This  is  considered   the  best  roasting  joint.     Two  loins 
together  make  a  saddle  ;  rather  a  wasteful  joint,  because  of  the  way 
it  is  carved.     The  upper  part  of  the  loin  and  leg  together  form  a  haunch. 
Chump  chops  are  cut  near  the  tail,  where  the  proportion  of  bone  is 
greater. 

(3)  Chump  end  of  Loin. — Cut  with  the  loins  for  a   saddle,   always 
roasted,  or  in  chops  for  broiling. 

(4)  Best  end  of  the  Neck. — Roasting,  boiling,  or  for  mutton  cutlets. 
Small  mutton  is  best  for  cutlets. 

(5)  Scrag  end  of  the  Neck. — Broth,  stews,  or  boiling.     A  low-priced 
joint,  not  very  fat,  but  very  bony  and  wasteful. 

(6  and  8)  Shoulder. — Often  sold  divided,  for  roasting.  It  is  pre- 
ferred by  many  persons  to  the  leg,  but  is  not  so  economical,  and  is 
fatter. 

(7)  Breast. — Often  sold  at  a  cheap  rate  for  stewing  or  boiling.  Too 
fat  for  many  persons,  but  often  economical. 

Besides  these  joints,  the  following  parts  of  the  sheep  are  sold  for 
food  : — 

(9)  Head. — Sometimes  sold  with  the  pluck,  but  more  often  alone.     Can 
be  boiled,  and  made  into  most  excellent  broth — Scotch  people  generally 
use  it  for  this — or  braised,  and  is  usually  an  economical  dish,  but  its 
price  varies  very  greatly. 

(10)  Heart. — Sometimes  sold    separately,  and    sometimes  with   the 
rest   of   the   "  pluck,"   consisting  of  liver,  lights  and   heart.     Sheep's 
liver  can  be  fried  or  made  into  soup.     The  heart  is  best  roasted.     The 
whole  of  the  pluck  is  frequently  eaten.     In  Scotland  it  is  made  into 
"  haggis."     Probably  the  cheapest  form  of  butcher's  meat. 

(n)  Kidneys. — Broiled  or  stewed.  A  very  common  breakfast  dish. 
The  kidney  is  often  sold  with  the  loin. 

(12)  Feet,  or  "  trotters,"  as  they  are  generally  called  in  London, 
where  they  are  bought  in  the  markets  at  4  a  penny,  and  after  being 
cleaned  and  boiled  are  retailed  at  a  halfpenny  and  a  penny  each. 
Seldom  eaten  in  the  south  of  England  except  by  the  very  poor. 

(13)  Mutton  suet  is  better  than  beef  for  frying,  because  it  is  less 
likely  to  burn,  but  it  is  not  so  good  for  puddings. 

Mode  of  Cutting  up  Lamb. — Lamb,  when  large,  is  cut  into  the  same 
joints  as  mutton  ;  when  small,  it  is  sold  in  quarters  ;  the  leg  and  loin 
to  the  hind,  and  the  shoulder,  breast  and  neck  to  the  fore -quart  or. 

Lambs'  sweetbreads  are  considered  a  delicacy,  and  are  expensive. 
Lambs'  fry  consists  of  the  liver,  sweetbread,  some  of  the  inside  fat 
or  "  leaf,"  and  the  heart. 

Lamb's  kidney,  lamb's  head  and   lamb's  trotters  are  also  eaten. 


556 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


The  fore-quarter  of  lamb  is,  by  many  persons,  preferred;  but  the  leg, 
here,  as  in  mutton,  is  more  economical.  Howevei,  few  persons  eat 
lamb  except  as  a  luxury,  and  so  questions  of  economy  are  more  or 
less  out  of  place. 

A  good  deal  of  lamb  is  now  imported  from  New  Zealand,  and  is 
slightly  cheaper  than  the  home  grown.  The  brand  known  as  "  Canter- 
bury "  is  the  best.  Lamb  is  to  be  had  in  London  from  Christmas 
until  late  autumn.  It  is  dear  and  scarce  from  January  to  March,  gets 
cheaper  through  the  summer  months,  from  Easter  to  July  or  August  ; 
and -late  in  the  season,  as  far  on  as  October,  lamb  is  still  sent  southwards 
from  Scotland. 

All  young  meat  is  less  nourishing,  and  is  said  to  be  less  digestible 
than  that  which  is  full-grown  ;  but  lamb  has  a  better  reputation  in  this 
respect  thari  veal. 

Lamb  should  not  be  in  the  least  high;  and  if,  therefore,  it  has  to  be 
kept,  it  should  be  partly  cooked,  such  being  the  most  certain  way  to 
preserve  it  from  taint. 


TABLE  OF  THE  RELATIVE   VALUE  OF   VARIOUS  PARTS  OF 
MUTTON. 

GIVING  THE  ACTUAL  COST  OF  THE  EATABLE  PORTIONS  OF  THE  VARIOUS 
JOINTS  AFTER  DEDUCTING  LOSS  IN  WEIGHT  FROM  WASTE  AND 
BONE  BY  DIFFERENT  MODES  OF  COOKING. 

Mutton  will  be  seen  to  waste  more  in  cooking  than  other  meats. 
Some  of  the  larger  joints  are  the  cheapest,  the  saddle  losing  less  than 
the  loin,  while  the  leg  is  one  of  the  most  economical. 


Name  of  Joint. 

How  usually 
cooked. 

Weight 
before 
cooking. 

Weight 
when 
cooked, 
bone  and 

Total 
loss 
per  Ib. 

Average 
cost 
per  Ib. 

Cost  per  Ib. 
after  cook- 
ing, bone 
a.'id  waste 

!->Tifertf  no 

deducted. 

deducted. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.   oz. 

oz. 

s.     d. 

s.      d. 

Breast       .... 

Roasted     . 

3     o 

2       I 

5 

o     8 

0    Ili 

Chump  chop        .  '    .  ' 

Grilled       . 

0    12 

o     8] 

5 

I      I 

7 

Haunch     .     v    *    'i  ' 

Roasted     . 

13    I* 

9     4 

51 

0    II 

41 

Head    .    -UKR*  -/*  w.  - 

2      8 

i     4 

8 

o     5 

I  O 

Heart         .     ^,:j?v,y 

Baked 

I       0 

o  14 

2 

o     9 

loj 

Kidneys    .     .      . 

Grilled 

0    12 

o     9 

3 

I       2 

5t 

Lee 

Boiled''     Vr 

IO      O 

O    I  O 

Les 

Roasted 

8      2 

ki 

O    I  O 

2 

Roasted     . 

51  ^ 

4t\ 

O    IO 

3 

„     (chop)     .      .      . 

Grilled       . 

A  J 

O    12 

\J 

o     8* 

4 

Z        I 

54 

Neck  (best  end)  .      . 

Boiled 

2       8 

i   14 

4 

O    IO 

„       (scrag  end) 

Stewed 

I    12 

o  14 

8 

o     7 

2 

Saddle       .... 

Roasted     . 

10     4 

7  12 

3! 

O   IO 

I 

Shoulder          .      .      . 

Roasted     . 

7     i 

4     o 

o    9 

4 

Tongue      .... 

Boiled 

i     5 

o  14 

5 

o     8 

0    Ili 

GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    ON    SHEEP 


557 


NOTE. — For  the  purpose  of  the  table  the  prices  per  Ib.  for  head,  heart, 
kidneys  and  tongue  is  given.  These  parts  are,  however,  nearly  always  sold 
irrespective  of  weight,  and  the  folio  wing  are  average  prices  : — Head,  8d.  each  ; 
heart,  sd.  (frozen),  id.  each ;  kidneys,  4d.  (frozen),  id.  each ;  tongue,  4d.  each. 

By  most  butchers  the  shank-bone  of  a  leg  of  mutton  is  weighed 
with  the  joint,  the  result  being  an  increase  of  weight  without  value, 
but  it  is  nevertheless  an  economical  joint,  as  there  is  no  waste  in  its 
carving,  whereas  against  a  loin  must  be  reckoned  the  less  of  meat 
left  upon  the  bones,  and  that  so  often  caused  by  an  undue  preponder- 
ance of  fat. 

TABLE  GIVING   WEIGHT  OF  BONE,   SKIN,  AND  WASTE  IN 
JOINTS   OF   MUTTON. 


Name  of  Joint. 

htof 

.'.  ll'.'M 

bought. 

htof 
bone,  skin 
and  waste. 

Loss  of 
weight  by 
cooking. 

T..U1 

lit  Of 

mat; 

Ib.    or. 

Ib.     or. 

Ib.     ox. 

Ib.     or. 

Ib.     ot. 

I  launch        .... 

i  *    i^ 

3     o 

••      1 

!!.•-!)          .          .          . 

10      0 

I      6 

10 

3     o 

7     o 

„     (roasted) 

S       2 

i      7 

4 

2   ii 

5     7 

Loin       

*    13 

0    12 

i 

i    i  '. 

4     o 

Sa.Mlr            .... 

10     4 

O    12 

12 

2      8 

Shoulder      .... 

7     i 

I       6 

11 

3     i 

4     o 

TABLE  OF  THE   RELATIVE    VALUE  OF    VARIOUS   PARTS   OF 

LAMB. 

GIVING  THE  ACTUAL  COST  OF  THE  EATABLE  PORTIONS  OF  THE  Di 
ENT  PARTS,  AFTER  DEDUCTING  Loss  OF  WEIGHT  FROM   \\ 
AND  BONE,  BY  DIFFERENT  MODES  OF  COOKING. 


Name  of  Joint. 

How  usually 
cooked. 

Weight 

t   ;  n 

QOOid  .: 

Weight 

«;.   • 
cooked, 
1.  i  i  •  -1 
•A  •  tfl 
i    !u   ',    i 

Total 

;  • 

p  r  1!-. 

.\V'  •  .  :  • 

cost 

PT  Ib. 

m  -'k(-i 
<:  mat. 

Cost  per  Ib. 
rook- 
ing, bone 
and  waste 
icted. 

.... 

:iarttT 
Hind-quarter 
.      . 

1  . 
Roasted  . 
Roasted  . 
Roasted  . 
Roasted 

Ib.     or. 
2      O 

II        0 

9     o 
4     8 

Ib.   or. 
I      6 
7   12 
7     4 

2    12 

5 
4 

3 

51 
Li 

9.      d. 
O    10 

o 

I 
I 

<L 
*i 

5 
4t 
9\ 

A? 

. 
(in  cutlets 
(scrag)  . 

. 

Fried 
Stewed      . 

.} 
I     3 

I        2 

4     5 

o      .,1. 
O    IO 

41 

- 
., 

51 

I 
o     8 

I      0 

8 

ii 

7 

*  The  foot  being  generally  weighed  with  the  Leg  of  Lamb,  makes  this  joint  an  expensive  one. 


558 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


TABLE  GIVING  WEIGHT  OF  BONE,  SKIN,  AND  WASTE  IN 
JOINTS  OF   LAMB. 


Name  of  Joint. 

Weight  of 
joint  when 
bought. 

Weight  of 
bone,  skin 
and  waste. 

Loss  of 
weight  by 
cooking. 

Total 
weight  of 
waste. 

Weight  of 
eatable 
matter. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Breast          

2      0 

o     8 

0       2 

O    IO 

I     6 

Fore-quarter     . 

II       0 

I       0 

2       4 

3     4 

7  12 

Hind-quarter    . 

O       O 

o     8 

i     5 

I     12 

7     4 

Loin             •      •      •      • 

40 

o     8 

O    II 

I       ^ 

30 

Lee 

3 

4,      8 

O    I  "^ 

o  15 

I    12 

** 

2    12 

Neck  (in  cutlets)    '    . 

T"           " 

I     3 

u  A  j 
o     6J 

o     3 

O       f)\ 

o    9^ 

„    (scrag)     .      .      . 

I       2 

o     6* 

o     ij 

o     s" 

10 

Shoulder      .... 

4     5 

o  13 

o  13 

I    10 

2    II 

The  prices  given  for  lamb  are  those  when  it  is  in  full  season.     In  winter  that  called  House  Lamb 
is  considerably  dearer,  and  sometimes  even  till  after  Easter  the  price  of  lamb  continues  high. 


RECIPES 
FOR  COOKING   LAMB 


CHAPTER    XVIII 

948.— BREAST  OF  LAMB,  MILANAISE  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Poitrine  d'Agneau  a  la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — A  breast  of  lamb,  a  mirepoix  of  vegetables  (see 
"  Shoulder  of  Lamb,  Braised  "),  stock,  6  ozs.  of  macaroni,  i  table- 
s.poonful  of  grated  cheese,  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce,  £  an  oz. 
of  butter,  salt  and  p  pper. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  lamb  as  directed  (see  "  Shoulder 
of  Lamb,  Braised  ").  Break  the  macaroni  into  2-inch  lengths,  throw 
it  into  boiling  salted  water,  boil  rapidly  for  10  minutes,  then  drain 
well.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  cover  with  hot  stock,  and  cook  gently 
until  tender,  keeping  the  stewpan  uncovered  in  order  that  the  unab- 
snrl.i-d  stork  may  evaporate.  Just  before  serving  stir  in  the  butt  IT. 
cheese  and  white  sauce,  and  season  to  taste.  Arrange  neatly  in  t lu- 
cent re  of  a  hot  dish,  and  place  the  meat  on  the  top.  Serve  with 
a  suitable  sauce  or  thickened  gravy. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  per  Ih. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons,  according  to  size.  Seasonable  from  April  to 
October. 

949. -BREAST  OF  LAMB,  TURKISH  STYLE. 

(Fr.— Poitrine  d'Agneau  a  la  Turque.) 

Ingredients. — A  breast  of  lamb  J  of  a  Ib.  of  sausage-meat,  £  of  a 
pint  of  demi-glace  sauce  or  a  mild  curry  sauce  (see  Sauces).  For  the 
mirepoix,  or  foundation  :  £  of  a  pint  ol  stock,  2  onions,  2  carrots, 
|  a  small  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  pepper- 
corns, 2  ozs.  of  butter.  For  the  rice  border  :  6  ozs.  of  Patna  rice,  i 
large  onion,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  pints  of  white  stock,  salt  and  pepper, 
and,  ii  liked,  a  pinch  of  saflron,  may  be  added. 

Method.  Remove  the  bones,  flatten  the  meat  with  a  cutlet-bat  or 
rolling-pin,  suason  well  with  s.ilt  and  pepper,  spread  on  thcsausagcmcat, 
roll  up  tightly,  and  hind  securely  with  string.  Slice  the  vegetables, 


560  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

and  put  them  into  a  large  stewpan  with  the  butter,  place  the  meat 
on  the  top,  cover,  and  cook  gently  for  about  20  minutes,  then  add  the 
herbs,  peppercorns,  and  stock  to  nearly  cover  the  vegetables.  Place  a 
buttered  paper  over'  the  meat,  put  on  the  lid,  and  braise  for  2  hours. 
Heat  i-J-  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  to  it  the  onion  finely- 
chopped,  and  fry  for  about  15  minutes  without  browning.  Wash 
and  blanch  the  rice,  drain  well,  then  add  it,  together  with  the  stock, 
to  the  onions,  season  to  taste,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  the  lid, 
and  simmer  gently  until  the  rice  is  tender  and  dry.  Place  the  meat 
in  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  demi-glace  or  curry-sauce  over,  arrange  the  rice 
in  the  form  of  a  border,  and  serve. 

Time. — 2^  hours,  to  cook  the  meat.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

THE  LAMB  AS  A  SACRIFICE.— Lambs  were  used  in  considerable  numbers  by  the  Hebrews  in  the 
sacri'ices.  Two  lambs  "  of  the  first  year  "  were  appointed  to  be  daily  offered  at  the  morning  and 
evening  sacrifice,  and  a  lamb  served  as  a  substitute  for  the  firstborn  of  unclean  animals,  as  the  ass, 
which  could  not  be  accepted  as  an  offering  to  the  Lord.  On  the  anniversary  of  the  Passover,  one 
of  the  three  great  annual  festivals  of  the  Israelites,  celebrated  from  the  i4th  to  the  2ist  of  the  month 
Nisan,  to  commemorate  the  deliverance  of  the  Hebrews  from  the  bondage  of  Egypt,  every  family 
was  ordered  to  sacrifice  a  lamb  or  kid,  a  male  of  the  first  year  without  blemish,  and  to  sprinkle  some 
of  its  blood  with  hyssop  upon  the  two  side  posts  and  the  lintel  of  the  door  of  the  house.  The  lamb 
was  eaten  roasted,  with  unleavened  bread,  and  bitter  herbs,  and  in  haste,  with  the  loins  girded,  shoes 
on  the  feet,  and  a  staff  in  the  hand  ;  whatever  remained  over  until  the  morning  was  burned.  The 
sheep  was  also  used  in  the  numerous  special,  individual,  and  national  sacrifices  ordered  by  the  Mosaic 
law.  On  extraordinary  occasions  vast  numbers  of  sheep  were  sacrificed  as  an  offering.  Solomon, 
on  the  completion  of  the  Temple,  offered  "  sheep  and  oxen  that  could  not  be  numbered  for  multi- 
tude." 

950.— BREAST  OF  LAMB,  STUFFED.     (/r.— Poitrine 
d'Agneau  Farcie.) 

Ingredients. — A  breast  of  lamb,  mirepoix  as  in  preceding  recipe, 
£  of  a  pint  of  brown  or  demi-glace  sauce,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Force- 
meats), French  beans,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  glaze. 

Method. — Proceed  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  substituting 
veal  forcemeat  for  the  sausage-meat.  Cook  the  beans  in  salted 
water,  and  drain  them  well.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the 
beans,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes 
and  serve  them  arranged  in  small  groups  round  the  dish.  Before 
serving,  brush  the  meat  over  with  glaze,  and  send  the  sauce  to  table 
in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — 2}  hours,  to  cook  the  meat.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

951.— BLANQUETTE  OF  LAMB.         (Fr.— Blanquette 
d'Agneau.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of   loin,  neck  or  breast  of   lamb,   I  onion  sliced, 

a   bouquet-garni    (parsley,    thyme,    bay-leaf),    6   white  peppercorns. 

For  the  sauce  :  *  a  pint  of  stock,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  loz.  of  flour,  2  yolks 
of  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuis  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 


COLD    COLLATION    DISHES. 


i— Pigeon  Pie.  2— Raised  Game  Pie.  3— Cutlets  and  Peas.  4— Prawns  en  Bouquet.  5— Creme 
Chicken.  6— Plovers'  Eggs.  7— Lamb  Cutlets.  8— Larks  Farcie.  9— Piped  Ham. 
10— Boned  Capon. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    LAMB  561 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  about  2  inches  square,  and  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  the  onion,  herbs,  peppercorns  and  a  little  salt. 
Cover  with  cold  water,  and  cook  gently  for  2.  hours.  Melt  the  butter, 
add  the  flour,  stir,  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning. 
When  the  meat  is  ready,  strain  from  it  \  a  pint  of  the  liquor,  and  add 
it  to  the  blended  flour  and  butter.  Stir  until  boiling,  simmer  for  3  or 
4  minutes,  then  add  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  cream,  previously  beaten 
together.  Stir  and  cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes,  taking  care  that  it 
does  not  boil,  or  it  may  curdle.  Arrange  the  meat  neatly  on  a  hot 
dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  2.\  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  Sd.  to  is.  -d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

952.— CHARTREUSE  A  LA  GASTRONOME. 

Ingredients.  -  i  or  j  brrasts  of  lamb,  boned  and  braised  (see  "  Shoulder 
of  Lamb,  Braised  "  .  brai-ed  lettuce-stalks,  \  a  pint  of  demi-glace  sauce 
No.  242,  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Braise  the  lamb  as  directed,  and  at  the  same  time  cook 
the  lettuce-stalks.  Cut  the  lamb  into  strips,  arrange  alternately  with 
layers  of  lettuce  in  a  plain  cylindrical  mould,  adding  a  Huh 
stock  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  gently  for  i^  hours  in 
the  bain-marie,  then  unmould  carefully,  and  serve  with  a  little  «>i  the 
saucc  poured  round,  and  the  remainder  sent  to  table  in  .•  -at. 

Time. — About  i\  hours  after  braising.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  icxl.  per 
Ib.  Sufficient  for  i  large  mould.  Seasonable  all  the  y 

953.— CHAUD-FROID  OF  LAMB  CUTLETS. 

(Fr.— Chaud-Froid  de  Cotelettes  d'Agneau.) 

Ingredients. — The  best  end  of  a  neck  of  lamb  (1  3  directed 

in  No.  989),  £  a  pint  of  aspic  jelly  (sec  jellies)  4  leaves  of  French  gela- 
tine, i  gill  of  Bechamel  sauce,  £  a  gill  of  tomato  sauce  (see  'Sauces), 
\  a  ,i;ill  of  cream,  salad,  salt  and  pop: 

Method.— When  the  lamb  is  quite  cold  divide  it  into  cutlets,  and  trim 
them  into  a.  neat  uniform  shape.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  water,  add  it  to  the  hot  white  sauce,  add  also  lather  more 
than  i  the  aspic  jelly,  and  divide  the  mixture  into  2  equal  portions. 
To  the  one  add  the  cream,  and  to  the  other  the  tomato  sauce,  si 
to  taste,  and  while  hot  pass  the  mixtr.  a  tammy- 

cloth.  Coat  half  the  cutlets  with  the  white  sauce  and  the  remainder 
with  the  red.  When  the  sauce  is  set  pour  over  the  cutlets  Jhc  rc_ 
mainder  of  the  aspic  jolly,  which  must  be  nearly  <  old  at  the  time. 
Dish  in  a  <  in  '  ,  placing  the  colours  alternat<-lv,  and  fill  the  centre  uith 

Time.-  About  H  hours.  Average  Ccst,  45.  Allow  9  or  10  cutlets 
ior  7  or  8  persons. 


562  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

954.— COLD  LAMB  CUTLETS.  (Fr.— Cotelettes  d'Ag- 
neau  a  la  Gelee.) 

There  are  various  ways  of  preparing  this  dish.  The  cutlets  may  be 
cooked  in  butter  (sauteed  or  grilled)  or  braised  and  pressed.  The 
former  method  is  no  doubt  more  simple,  although  braising  is  highly 
recommended  on  account  of  the  fine  flavour  imparted  to  the  meat  by 
this  method  of  cooking.  The  cutlets  must  be  carefully  pared,  trimmed 
and  flattened  before  they  are  cooked,  and  when  cooked  they  must 
be  pressed  beneath  a  heavy  weight,  and  kept  thus  until  they  are 
quite  cold.  To  finish  them,  proceed  as  follows  : — 

Pour  a  layer  of  aspic  jelly  in  a  saute-pan,  or  large  dish,  ;  when  set 
arrange  the  cutlets  in  it,  cover  with  another  layer  of  aspic  jelly,  and  let 
this  also  set.  Place  the  pan  or  dish  on  the  ice  for  about  i  hour,  then 
cut  the  cutlets  out  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  arrange  them  in  a  circle 
on  a  round  dish.  Fill  the  centre  of  the  dish  with  some  kind  of 
cooked  vegetables — peas,  beans,  asparagus  points,  or  macedoine — 
previously  seasoned  with  mayonnaise  or  French  salad  dressing,  and 
garnish  with  neatly  cut  cubes  of  set  aspic  jelly,  and  serve. 

Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Allow  9  or  10  cutlets  for  6  or 
7  persons. 

955.— CROQUETTES  OF  LAMB.  (Fr.— Croquettes 
d'Agneau.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  lamb,  i  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley,  ^  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or 
onion,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  f  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  strong  stock, 
Salt  and  pepper,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying- fat. 

Method — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  lightly,  then 
stir  in  first  the  flour  and  afterwards  the  stock,  and  boil  gently  for  3  or  4 
minutes,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile.  Add  the  meat,  parsley,  and  a 
good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  stir  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed, 
and  turn  on  to  a  plate  to  cool.  Form  into  cork-shaped  pieces,  coat 
carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  (See 
"Croquettes  of  Beef,"  also  "  Notes  on  Frying,"  p.  433.) 

Time. — To  fry,  4  to  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  5d.,  exclusive  of  the 
meat.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

956.— CUTLETS,  LARDED.  (Fr.— Cotelettes  d'Ag- 
neau Piquees.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  Ib.  of  neck  of  lamb,  larding  bacon,  stock,  i  onion 
sliced,  2  carrots  sliced,  ^  a  turnip  sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper,  £  a  pint  of  tomato  or 
brown  sauce  (see  "  Sauces  "),  glaze,  mashed  potato. 

Method.— Trim  the  cutlets  into  a  good  shape  (see  "  Lamb  Cutlets,  to 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    LAMB  563 

prepare  "),  and  lard  one  side  closely  with  fine  lardoons  (see  No.  989). 
Place  the  vegetables  in  a  stewpan,  lay  the  cutlets  on  the  top,  add  the 
peppercorns,  and  stock  to  nearly  cover  the  vegetables.  Sprinkle 
liberally  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  lightly  with  a  greased  paper,  and 
put  on  the  lid.  Cook  gently  for  i  hour,  basting  frequently,  and  adding 
more  stock  as  that  in  the  stewpan  boils  away.  Place  the  cutlets 
on  a  tin  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  crisp  the  bacon,  brush  them 
over  with  the  reduced  gravy,  and  arrange  them  neatly  on  a  border  of 
mashed  potato.  Serve  the  sauce  separately. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  nd.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable,  April  to  October. 

957.— EPIGRAMS    OF    LAMB.          (Fr.— Epigrammes 
d'Agneau  a  la  Soubise.) 

Ingredients. —  i  breast  of  lamb,  2  quarts  of  stock,  i  onion,  i  carrot, 
£  a  small  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  egg, 
breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat,  Soubise  sauce,  Allemande 
sauce  (see  Sauces). 

Method. — Trim  the  breast  of  lamb,  cut  it  in  two,  and  blanch  it. 
Bring  the  stock  to  boiling  point,  put  in  the  meat,  boil  rapidly  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  the  vegetables  cut  into  thick  slices,  the  bouquet- 
garni,  salt  to  taste,  and  cook  gently  for  about  i  hour,  or  until  the  inc.it 
is  tender.  Remove  the  bones,  press  the  meat  between  2  dishes  until 
cold,  then  trim  off  all  the  skin  and  gristle,  and  cut  the  meat  into  pieces 
convenient  for  serving.  Have  ready  the  Allemande  sauce,  which 
must  be  very  thick  and  nearly  cold  ;  season  the  epigrammes,  or  lamb 
entrees,  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  them  into  the  sauce,  and  if  not 
completely  coated,  repeat  the  operation.  When  the  sauce  is  set  and 
firm,  dip  the  epigrammes  into  beaten  egg,  coat  them  carefully  with 
fine  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  tat  until  they  acquire  a  golden-brown 
colour.  Drain  well,  and  arrange  in  the  form  of  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  serve  the  Soubise  sauce  in  the  centre. 

Time. — 3  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

958.— LAMB  BOILED.       (Fr.— Agneau  bouilli.) 

The  leg  of  lamb  is  the  part  usually  selected  for  boiling,  but  this 
method  of  cooking  is  not  often  adopted.  Careful  and  frequent  skim- 
ming is  essential  to  preserve  the  colour  of  the  meat,  and  the  liquor 
in  which  it  is  cooked  must  contain  nothing  to  destroy  or  overpower 
iic.U"'  flavour.  Thf  pefcs,  carrots,  or  whatever  is  served  as  a 
gttrnish, should  In-  cooked  separately,  and  the  meat  masked  with  a  good 
white  or  Herhamel  sauce. 

959-—  LAMBS'  COLLOPS  AND  ASPARAGUS. 

Ingredients. — Slices  of  underdone  lamb,  30  asparagus,  i£  ozs.  of  butter, 


564  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

£  anoz.  of  flour,  For  the  seasoning:  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  £  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  $  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  1  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a  pinch  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  £  a  pint  of 
gravy,  stock  or  water. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  fillets  about  2^  inches  in  diameter, 
sprinkle  both  sides  with  seasoning,  and  put  aside  for  i  hour.  Cut 
the  tips  of  the  asparagus  about  2  inches  long,  and  boil  them  in  salted 
water  until  tender,  the  stems  being  put  aside  to  be  afterwards  used  for 
soup.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  cook  the  collops  quickly  until 
lightly  browned  on  both  sides,  then  remove  and  keep  them  hot. 
Sprinkle  the  flour  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  cook  until  well-browned, 
and  add  the  gravy  or  stock.  Season  to  taste,  boil  rapidly  for  about  5 
minutes,  then  strain.  Arrange  the  collops  in  a  close  circle  on  a  hot 
dish,  place  the  asparagus  tips  in  the  centre,  and  pour  the  sauce  round. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  43.  6d.  Sufficient,  allow 
i  Ib.  of  meat  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  March  to  July. 

96o.-LAMB  CUTLETS,  TO  PREPARE. 

Method. — Take  the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  lamb,  remove  the  chine 
bone,  and  saw  the  rib  bones  across,  reducing  the  length  to  3^  or  4 
inches,  according  to  the  size  of  the  fillet,  or  lean  portion  of  the  meat. 
Trim  off  the  greater  part  of  the  fat,  and  scrape  the  end  of  the  bone, 
leaving  about  £  of  an  inch  quite  bare.  A  more  even  surface  and  a  better 
shape  may  be  obtained  by  flattening  the  cutlets  with  a  wetted  cutlet- 
bat  or  chopping-knife.  The  cutlets  may  be  plainly  grilled  or  fried, 
coated  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fried  or  braised  and  glazed. 
The  most  suitable  vegetable  accompaniments  are  asparagus,  green 
peas,  and  spinach  ;  and  an  almost  infinite  number  of  sauces  may  be 
served  with  the  cutlets,  and  allowed  to  give  their  name  to  the  dish 
when  it  is  a  simple  one.  For  example,  plainly  grilled  or  fried  cutlets 
may  be  served  with  tomato  or  Madeira  sauce,  and  termed  respectively, 
Cotelettes  d'Agneau  d  la  Tomate,  and  Cotelettes  d'Agneau  d  la  Madcre. 

961.— LAMB  CUTLETS,  GRILLED.      (Fr.— Cotelettes 
d'Agneau  Grillees.) 

Ingredients. — 9  or  10  cutlets  cut  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  £  a 
pint  of  shelled  peas,  £  of  a  pint  of  good  gravy  or  dcmi-glace  sauce  (see 
Sauces),  salt  and  pepper,  salad-oil. 

Method. — Trim  the  cutlets  into  a  good  shape,  brush  over  with  salad- 
oil,  then  grill  them  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  for  about  8  or  10 
minutes,  turning  them  3  or  4  times.  Season  the  cutlets  lightly  with 
salt  and  pepper,  cover  the  end  of  each  bone  with  a  cutlet-frill,  arrange 
neatly  in  a  circle  on  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  serve  the  peas  in  the 
centre  and  pour  the  hot  sauce  round. 

Time. — 30  minutes,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  per  11 ». 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    LAMB  565 

962. -LAMB  CUTLETS,  MALMAISON  STYLE. 

(Fr.— Cotelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Malmaison.) 

Ingredients. — 9  or  10  cutlets  cut 'from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  £  of  a 
pint  of  demi-glace  sauce  (see  Sauces),  4  or  $  small  stuffed  tomatoes, 
(see  Vegetables),  lentil,  green  pea  and  potato  purees,  i  egg,  bread- 
crumbs, 2  ozs.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  cutlets  into  a  good  shape,  season  them  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  coat  them  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  Rub  the  cooked 
vegetables  through  a  fine  sieve,  season  to  taste,  bind  with  a  little  yolk 
of  egg,  press  into  small  dariol  moulds,  and  keep  hot  until  required. 
Prepare  and  bake  the  tomatoes,  also  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  which 
must  be  brushed  over  with  yolk  of  egg  and  browned  in  the  oven.  Heat 
the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  cutlets  until  lightly  browned,  and 
drain  well.  Arrange  them  in  a  close  circle  on  the  potato  border, 
garnish  with  the  tomatoes  and  small  timluiles  of  vegetables,  and  serve 
the  hot  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — To  try  the  cutlets,  from  7  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is. 
to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

963. -LAMB  CUTLETS,  MILANESE  STYLE. 

(Fr.— Cotelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  lamb  cutlets,  £  of  a  pint  of  dcmi-glace  sauce, 
\  a  Ib.  ot  Patna  rice,  |  of  a  pint  of  white  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato- 
pulp  (made  by  rubbing  raw  tomatoes  through  a  fine  sieve),  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  fniely- 
chopped  parsley,  salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  blanch  the  rice,  and  drain  it  well.  Replacr 
it  in  the  stcwpan,  add  the  butter,  tomato-pulp,  salt  and  popper,  put 
in  the  stock,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  the  stcwpan-lid,  and  cook 
slowly  for  about  i  hour,  or  until  the  rice  is  tender  and  dry.  Brush 
the  cutlets  over  with  salad  oil,  grill  them  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire 
for  8  or  10  minutes,  turning  them  3  or  4  times,  and  before  serving 
i  them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  the  grated  cheese  to  the  rice, 
season  to  taste,  and  arrange  it  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid  in  the  centre 
of  a  hot  dish.  Sprinkle  the  top  of  it  with  parsley,  dish  the  cutlets 
y  overlapping  each  other  round  the  base,  and  pour  the  hot  dcmi- 
glacc  sauce  round. 

Time.  —About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons. 

964.— LAMB  CUTLETS,  RICHELIEU  STYLE. 

(Fr.— Cotelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Richelieu.) 

Ingredients.  9  or  10  lamb  cutlets,  2.\  ozs.  of  butter,  6  or  7  small 
stuffed  tomatoes  (see  Vegetables),  6  or  7  artichoke  bottoms,  £  a  pint  of 


566         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

cooked  asparagus-points,  i  truffle,  £  of  a  pint  of  demi-glace  sauce, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — When  tinned  artichoke  bottoms  are  used,  warm  them  in  a 
little  of  their  own  liquor.  Prepare  and  cook  the  asparagus-points, 
and,  when  ready  to  use,  season  and  to;s  them  over  the  fire  in  £  an  oz. 
of  hot  buttef.  Prepare  and  bake  the  tomatoes.  Trim  the  cutlets 
into  a  good  shape,  heat  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  put  in  the  cutlets, 
and  fry  them  quickly  until  nicely  browned.  Place  a  cutlet-frill  on 
each  bone,  arrange  neatly  in  a  circle  on  a  border  of  mashed  potato, 
and  pile  the  tomatoes  in  the  centre.  Fill  the  artichoke  bottoms  with 
the  asparagus  points,  sprinkle  a  little  chopped  truffle  on  each,  and  place 
them  at  regular  intervals  round  the  base  of  the  dish.  Have  ready  the 
hot  demi-glace  sauce,  pour  it  round  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  cutlets,  from  7  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
from  is.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

965.— LAMB  CUTLETS  WITH  CUCUMBER. 

(Fr.— Cotelettes  d'Agneau  au  Concombre.) 

Ingredients.— 8  or  9  cutlets  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  or  6  or  7 
chops  from  the  loin,  i  large  or  2  small  cucumbers,  3  o^s.  of  butter, 
£  of  a  pint  of  gravy,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  butter  or 
clarified  fat  for  frying  the  cutlets. 

Method. — Peel  the  cucumber,  remove  the  seeds,  and  cut  it  into  £ 
inch  dice.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  cucumber,  season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  closely,  and  let  it  cook  very  gently 
in  the  butter  for  nearly  £  an  hour,  or  until  the  pieces  are  tender  but 
unbroken,  then  drain  well.  Trim  the  cutlets  into  a  good  shape,  sprinkle 
both  sides  of  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  them  in  egg,  crumb  them, 
and  then  fry  in  hot  butter  or  fat  in  a  saute-  or  frying-pan  until  lightly 
browned  on  both  sides.  Arrange  the  cutlets  neatly  on  a  thin  potato 
border,  serve  the  cucumber  in  the  centre,  and  pour  the  hot  sauce  round. 

Time. — To  cook  the  cutlets,  from  8  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
is.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

966.— LAMB  CUTLETS  AND  SPINACH.      (Fr.— Cote- 
lettes  d'Agneau  aux  Epinards.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  10  cutlets,  £  of  a  pint  of  spinach  puree  (see  Vege- 
tables) i  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  £  of  a  pint  of 
gravy,  tomato  or  any  other  sauce  preferred. 

Method.— Trim  the  cutlets  (see  "  Lamb  Cutlets,  To  Prepare  "  ). 
Brush  them  over  with  beaten  egg  seasoned  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  coat  with  breadcrumbs.  Prepare  the  spinach  puree  as  directed, 
and  keep  it  hot  until  required.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-  or  frying- 
pan,  fry  the  cutlets  quickly  until  lightly  browned  on  both  sides,  and 
drain  them  free  from  fat.  Arrange  in  a  close  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  pile 
the  puree  in  the  centre,  and  pour  the.  sa.ucq  round* 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    LAMB  567 

Time. — To  fry,  5  or  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  p2rsons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

\»tc'. — Peas,  asparagus,  beans  or  dressed  potatoes  may  be  substituted 
for  the  spinach. 

967.— LAMB  CUTLETS  STEWED  WITH  TOMATOES. 
(Fr. — Cotelettes  d'Agneau,  aux  Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  lamb  cutlets,  4  tomatoes,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i 
finely-chopped  shallot  or  small  onion,  stock  or  water,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  cutlets  (see  "Lamb  Cutlets,  to  Prepare"),  and 
cut  the  tomatoes  into  thick  slices.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute- pan 
or  shallow  stewpan,  fry  the  cutlets  quickly  until  lightly  browned  on 
both  sides,  then  add  the  shallot  to  blend,  then  add  the  tomatoes,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  closely,  and  cook  very  slowly  for 
i£  hours,  adding  a  very  small  quantity  of  stock  or  water  from  time  to 
time,  if  necessary,  but  when  the  tomatoes  are  juicy  none  will  be 
needed.  When  ready,  remove  the  cutlets  and  keep  them  hot,  pass 
the  tomatoes  through  a  fine  sieve,  season  to  taste,  and  if  more  sauce 
is  liked  add  a  little  stock  and  thicken  with  cornflour.  Arrange  the 
cutlets  in  a  close  circle  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  ud.  t<>  is.  jd.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons.  S:asonable  from  April  to  October. 

968.— LAMB,  FRICASSEE  OF.     (Fr.— Fricassee  d'Ag- 
neau.) 

Ingredients. — A  breast  of  lamb,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  small  onion,  2 
bay-leaves,  2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,  6  peppercorns,  i  pint  of  boiling 
stock  or  water,  i  oz.  of  floar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  capers  coarscly- 
chopp:d,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  meat,  and  cut  into  2-inch  squares.  Heat  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  onion  sliced,  bay-leaves,  cloves,  mace, 
peppercorns,!  asaltspoonful  of  pepper,  salt  and  the  meat.  <  over,  and  cook 
very  gently  for  \  an  hour,  stirring  Occasionally.  NOA  add  the  boiling 
Stock  or  water  and  salt  to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  for  i  hour  longer, 
20  minutes  before  serving,  mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  very  small 
quantity  of  cold  water,  and  add  to  it  gradually  about  £  pint  of  the  liquor 
from  the  stewpan,  stirring  all  the  time.  Bring  the  eontcnts  of  the 
stewpan  to  boiling  point,  pour  in  the  thickened  liquor,  boil  for  2  or  3 
minutes,  then  simmer  until  the  meat  is  sufficiently  cooked.  When 
ready,  arrange  the  pieces  of  meat  inside  a  border  of  mashed  potato, 
or  othetwise,  as  may  be  preferred,  season  the  sauce,  add  to  it  the 
capers  to  taste,  and  pour  over  the  meat. 

Time.  About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons. 


568  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

969.— LAMB'S  FRY.     (Fr.~ Fricot  d'Agneau.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  fry.  For  the  batter  :  i  level  dessertspoonful 
of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  2  or  3  ozs. 
of  clarified  fat  or  dripping,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  about  \  a  pint 
of  hot  water. 

Method. — Wash  the  fry,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  sufficient  cold 
water  to  just  cover  it,  bring  to  the  boil,  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then 
drain  and  dry  well.  Mix  the  flour,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  \  the 
quantity  of  pepper  into  a  smooth  batter  with  the  ?  tablespoonfuls 
of  cold  water,  and  add  to  it  the  egg,  previously  beaten.  Heat  the  clari- 
fied fat  in  a  frying-pan  ;  dip  the  pieces  of  fry  in  the  batter,  and  fry 
them  gently  until  nicely  browned  on  both  sides,  but  take  care 
not  to  overcook  the  liver.  Have  ready  a  very  hot  dish  on  which  to 
put  the  fry,  and  keep  it  as  hot  as  possible  while  the  gravy  is  being 
made.  The  fat  in  the  pan  may  be  used  for  this  purpose,  or,  if  pre- 
ferred, it  can  be  poured  away,  and  i  oz.  of  butter  used  instead.  Stir 
the  flour  into  the  fat,  and  when  brown  pour  in  the  hot  water,  stir  and 
boil  for  five  minutes,  season  to  taste,  and  either  strain  it  round  the- 
dish  or  serve  it  separately  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  15  or  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 
per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

Note. — If  preferred,  the  fry  may  be  coated  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
instead  of  the  batter,  before  frying. 

970.— LAMB'S  FRY.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  fry,  a  few  thin  slices  of  bacon,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  macaroni  or  spaghetti  (small 
sized  macaroni),  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  i  small  onion, 
i  small  carrot,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf). 

Method. — Wash  the  fry,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the  onion  and' 
carrot  cut  into  thin  slices,  the  bouquet-garni  and  cold  water  to  cover, 
bring  gently  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  slowly  for  about  i  hour.  Turn 
both  meat  and  gravy  into  a  basin,  and,  when  cold,  strain  off  the 
gravy  and  divide  the  meat  into  2  portions.  Cut  one  half  into 
rather  thin  slices,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  coat  them  with 
egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  put  the  slices  aside  until  wanted.  Cut  the 
remainder  of  the  meat  into  small  dice,  and  also  cut  the  macaroni  or 
spaghetti  into  very  small  pieces.  Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,. 
add  the  flour,  cook  and  stir  for  3  or  4  minutes,  pour  in  the  strainad 
liquor,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season  to  taste,  put  in  the  meat,, 
macaroni  and  parsley,  cover,  and  let  the  stewpan  stand  where  the 
contents  will  keep  hot  without  boiling.  Divide  the  bacon  into  small 
pieces,  roll  them,  put  them  on  a  skewer,  and  grill  or  bake  them  irt 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    LAMB  569 

the  oven  until  crisp.  Heat  the  remaining  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  saute- 
or  frying-pan,  put  in  the  prepared  slices  of  fry,  and  cook  them  quickly 
until  both  sides  are  lightly  browned,  then  drain  well.  The  preparation 
in  the  stewpan  should  have  a  consistency  sufficient  to  allow  it  to  be 
piled  in  the  centre  of  a  dish.  Serve  the  fried  slices  of  fry  round  the 
base,  and  garnish  ^ith  the  bacon.  When  a  more  liquid  sauce  is 
preferred,  dish  the  slices  of  fry  on  a  potato  border,  and  serve  the  sauce 
in  the  centre. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  per  Ib.     Sufficient  for 
about  4  persons. 

971.— LAMB'S      HEAD     AND      PLUCK.      (Fr.—  Tete 
d'Agneau.) 

Ingredients. — A  lamb's  head  and  pluck  (which  consists  of  the  heart, 
liver,  and  lungs  or  lights),  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.of  flour,  i  large  onion, 
i  carrot,  £  a  small  turnip,  a  bouquet -garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay 
6  peppercorns,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pep] XT, 
g^  browned  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Wash  the  head  well,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  cover  it  with 
cold  water,  and  bring  to  the  boil,  strain,  scrape  off  the  hairs,  if  any, 
and  rinse  well.  Wash  the  pluck  in  cold  water,  and  put  it  into  the 
slewpan  with  the  head,  cover  with  cold  water,  and  when  boiling  skim 
well.  When  all  the  scum  has  been  removed,  put  in  the  si 
tables,  the  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns  and  |  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  simmer  gently  for  about  i  hour.  Divide  the  head,  take  out  the 
tongue  and  brains,  and  keep  the  head  hot  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
Skin  the  tongue,  cut  it  into  dice,  chop  the  biains  coarsely, 
and  cut  the  pluck  into  small  pie*  mvhilc,  the  liquor  in  the  pan 

must  have  been  allowed  to  boil  rapidly  to  reduce,  and  before  using  it  for 
the  sauce  it  must  be  strained  and  well  skimmed.     Melt  the  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  for  five  minutes.     Pour  in  ij  pints  of 
tin  liquor,  and  stir  until  it  boils,  then  put  in  the  pluck,  tongue  and  brains, 
add  the  parsley,  and  season  to  taste,  cover  closely,  re-heat ,  and  kc< 
until  required.     Coat  the  head  with  beaten  egg  ami  browned  bread- 
crumbs, bake  it   in  a  moderate  oven  for   10  to   15  minutes,  K 
ip-qurntly  with  hot  fat.  then  drain  well.     Place  the  head  in  the  centre 
ot  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  mince  round,  and  serve. 

Time.— From  i]  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  2s.  to  2S.  Cd.     Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons. 

% 

972.—LAMB  PIE.     (Fr.—Patt  d'Agneau.) 

Ingredients.     _'  Ib.  of    loin,  m-  k  if  of    l.unK  i  or  .?  lambs'  or 

sin  (  p\  kidneys    thinly  lock  or  water,  salt  and  pepper,  short 

trust  or  jniti 


570  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Free  the  meat  from  fat  and  bones,  and  boil  the  latter 
down  for  gravy.  Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving, 
place  them  in  a  piedish,  sprinkling  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  add  a  few  slices  of  kidney.  Half  fill  the  dish  with  stock  or 
water,  cover  with  paste  (see  "  Veal  Pie  "),  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  about  i£  hours.  Strain  and  season  the  stock  made  from  the 
bones,  and  pour  it  into  the  pie  just  before  serving. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  23.  6d.  to  33.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

973.— LAMB,  STEWED.     (Fr,— Ragout  d'Agneau.) 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  Ib.  of  loin,  neck  or  breast  of  lamb,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
the  juice  of  \  a  lemon,  6  mint  leaves,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
£  a  pint  of  Soubise  sauce  (see  Sauces). 

Method. — Saw  the  long  bones  across,  and  either  skewer  or  bind  the 
meat  into  a  compact  form.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  large  stewpan,  add 
the  pepper,  mint,  and  lemon-juice,  put  in  the  meat,  cover  closely, 
and  cook  very  gently  for  about  an  hour,  turning  the  meat  2  or  3  times, 
in  order  to  brown  the  entire  surface.  Serve  the  Soubise  sauce  separ- 
ately ;  or,  instead  of  this  sauce,  add  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  mixed  with 

1  dessertspoonful  of  flour  to  the  butter,  etc.,  in  the  stewpan,  boil  for 

2  or  3  minutes,  season  to  taste,  improve  the    colour  if   necessary  by 
adding  a  few  drops  of  liquid  caramel.     Dish  up  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  7  or  8  persons. 

974.— LAMB,  STEWED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  Ib.  of  loin,  neck  or  breast  of  lamb,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  i  small  onion,  i  small  carrot,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  a  sprig  of  mint,  i  pint  of  shelled 
peas,  salt  and  pepper,  stock. 

Method. — Trim  the  meat  and  cut  it  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving. 
Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  vegetables  (cut  into  dice), 
herbs,  peppercorns,  and  mint  (tied  in  muslin),  and  the  meat,  cover 
closely,  and  cook  gently  for  about  30  minutes,  turning  the  meat  2  or 

3  times.     When  lightly  browned,  add  boiling  stock  or  water  to  cover 
the  meat,  put  on  the  lid,  and  simmer  very  gently  for  about  an  hour. 
£  an  hour  before  serving,  boil  up  and  put  in  the  peas  a  few  at  a  time, 
so  that  the   temperature  is  not   much   reduced   below   boiling   point. 
About  15  minutes  before  serving  mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  very 
small  quantity  of  cold  water,  then  add  to  it  gradually  about  £  a  pint 
of  the  strained  liquor  from  the  stewpan,  stirring  all  the  time.     Pour 
the  thickened  liquor  back  into  the  stewpan,  and  stir  gently  for  a  few 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    LAMB  571 

minutes.     When  both  meat  and  peas  are  tender,  remove  the  herbs, 
season  to  taste,  and  serve  the  stew  in  a  deep  dish. 

Time. — 2  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

975.— LAMBS'  SWEETBREADS  IN  CASES. 

(Fr. — Ris  d'Agneau  en  Caisses.) 

Ingredients. — 1\  Ib.  of  lambs'  sweetbreads,  £  a  pint  of  Bechamel 
sauce  (see  "  Sauces  "),  stock,  cooked  green  peas,  or  a  lew  tahlespoonfuls 
of  spinach  puree,  a  little  finely-chopped  trulllc,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Soak  and  blanch  the  sweetbreads  (see  lecipes  for  dressing 
veal  sweetbreads),  then  drain  well  and  cover  with  well-flavoured  white 
stock.  Cook  gently  for  i  hour,  or  until  tender,  and  drain  from  the 
stock.  Make  the  sauce  as  din-cud,  and  season  to  taste.  Place  a 
layer  of  peas  or  spinach  puree  at  the  bottom  of  8  or  9  oval  china  cases, 
add  a  portion  of  swcctluc.nl  and  a  little  sauce.  Sprinkle  lightly  \\ith 
trui  tie,  and  serve  hot. 

Time.— About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s,  3d  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable,  all  the  year. 

976.— LAMB  SWEETBREADS,  BOURGEOISE  STYLE. 
(Fr. — Ris  d'Agneau  a  la  Bourgeoise.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  lambs'  sweetbreads,  £  a  pint  of  brown  sauce, 
stock,  I  oz.  of  butter,  j  tahlespoonfuls  of  cooked  peas,  j  tablesp ->.>ntuls 
of  cooked  carrot,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  turnip,  salt  and  popper. 

Method.— Soak  and   blanch  the  ads  (see  recipes  for  dr< 

weetbreads),  and  drain  and  dry  them  well.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  toss  the  sweetbreads  in  it  until  lightly  cooked,  then  barely 
cover  them  with  good  stock.  Season  to  taste,  cook  \  ly  for 

I   hour,  and  drain  and  dry  thoroughly.     Make  the  sauce  a 

\"o.  233),  season  to  taste,  and  keep  hot  until  required.  Mean- 
while boil  the  turnip,  carrot  (cut  into  rounds  rather  smaller  than  a 
marble),  and  the  pe.  :d\  until  tender,  but  not  broken,  and  add 

tlu  in  to  the  sauce.     PL  read  in  casseroles  or  china  cases, 

mix  with  them  the  sauce  and  vegetables,  cook  on  the  stove  or  in  a 
moderate  oven  tor  n>or  15  minuter  then  serve. 

Time.-  Altogether,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S.  3d.  to  31. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  poisons.  Seasonable,  all  the  year. 

977-—  LAMBS'    SWEETBREADS,    CROUSTADES    OF. 
(Fr. — Ris  d'Agneau  en  Croustade.) 

Ingredients. — ij  Ib.  of  Iambi'  sweetbread-.  \  a  pint  of  Bechamel 
sauce  (see  "  Sauces  "),  stock,  cooked  green  peas  or  a  little  spinach 


572         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

puree,  finely-chopped  truffle,  salt  and  pepper,  rough  puff  or  puff 
paste. 

Method. — Prepare  the  sweetbreads  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe.  Have  ready  8  or  9  oval  or  round,  crisply-baked  pastry  cases, 
fill  them  with  sweetbread,  cover  with  sauce,  and  sprinkle  lightly  with 
truffle.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — To  cook  the  sweetbreads,  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost, 
is.  qd.  to  2S.  3d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable 
all  the  year. 

978.— LAMBS'  SWEETBREADS,  FRIED.       (Fr.— Ris 
d'Agneau  Frit.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lambs'  sweetbreads,  £  of  a  pint  of  gravy,  tomato 
sauce,  or  any  other  sauce  preferred,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  butter  of 
frying-fat,  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Soak  the  sweetbreads  in  water  for  2  hours,  changing  the 
water  3  or  4  times,  then  drain  well,  and  place  in  a  stewpan  containing 
just  sufficient  cold  water  to  cover  them.  Add  a  little  salt,  bring  to 
the  boil,  cook  gently  for  15  minutes,  then  press  between  2  dishes  until 
cold.  Roll  lightly  in  a  little  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  coat 
carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  butter  or  fat  until 
lightly  browned.  Serve  the  gravy  or  sauce  separately. 

Time. — To  fry,  6  or  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  all  times. 

979.— LAMBS'  SWEETBREADS,  VOLTAIRE    STYLE 
(Fr  —  Ris  d'Agneau  a  la  Voltaire.) 

Ingredients. — 8  lambs'  sweetbreads,  8  artichoke  bottoms,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces),  £  a  pint  of  good  stock,  2  or  3  slices  of 
bacon,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  a  bouquct-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf). 
salt  and  pepper,  meat  glaze. 

Method. — Blanch,  drain,  and  trim  the  sweetbreads.  Lay  the  slice?. 
of  bacon,  onion  and  carrot  sliced,  and  the  bouquet-garni  on  the  bottom 
of  a  saut6-pan,  f  cover  them  with  stock,  add  seasoning  if  necessary, 
place  the  sweetbreads  on  the  top,  and  cover  with  a  buttered  paper. 
Put  the  saute-pan  into  a  moderate  oven  and  braise  from  30  to  40 
minutes,  basting  frequently,  and  adding  more  stock  if  necessary. 
When  the  sweetbreads  are  done,  brush  them  over  with  warm  glaze 
and  keep  them  hot.  Strain  the  stock  into  a  small  stewpan,  skim  well, 
then  add  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  Bechamel  sauce,  previously  mixed 
together,  stir  until  it  thickens,  then  pass  through  a  tammy-cloth  or 
fine  hair  sieve.  Drain  the  artichokes  well  after  cooking,  or  from  the 
liquor  when  preserved  ones  are  used,  and  place  them  in  a  well-buttered 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    LAMB  573 

sautc-pan.  Into  each  put  a  tcaspoonful  of  the  prepared  sauce,  lay 
the  sweetbreads  on  the  top,  cover  with  sauce,  and  sprinkle  well  with 
the  cheese.  Melt  the  remainder  of  the  butter,  pour  a  little  on  each 
sweetbread,  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  5  or  6  minutes,  then  arrange  neatly 
on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  3d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

. — For  other  methods  of  cooking  lambs'  sweetbreads,  see  recipes  for 
cooking  veal. 

980.— LAMBS'    TAILS,    RUSSIAN    STYLE. 

(Fr.— Queux  d'Agneau  a  la  Russe.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  lambs'  tails,  i*  pints  of  stock,  i  glass  of  Chublis 
(if  liked),  a  bouquet-gurni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  cloves,  £  of  a 
pint  of  tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces),  frying-fat,  salt  and  pepper.  For 
the  batter  :  2  ozs.  of  flour,  \  a  gill  of  tepid  water,  i  tablespoonful  of 
salad-oil  or  melted  butter,  the  white  of  i  egg,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Blanch  the  tails,  cut  them  into  small  joints,  return  them 
to  the  stewpan  with  the  stock,  wine,  bouquet-garni,  cloves,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  cook  until  tender.  Allow  them  to  cool  in  the 
stock,  and,  when  ready  to  use,  drain  and  dry  well.  Mix  the  flour, 
water,  oil,  and  salt  into  a  smooth  batter,  then  add  the  parsley  and 
white  of  egg  stiiily  whipped.  Dip  the  pieces  of  tail  in  the  batter, 
and  fry  them  until  nicely  browned  in  hot  fat.  Garnish  with 
parsley,  and  serve  tomato  sauce  separately  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  being  seldom  sold.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons. 

981.— LAMBS'    TAILS   WITH    POTATOES. 

(Fr. — Queux  d'Agneau  aux  Pommes  de  Terre.) 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  lambs'  tails,  a  few  slices  of  bacon,  i  onion  sliced, 

1  carrot  sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-1 

corns,  salt,  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  brown,  tomato  or  other  sauce,  m. 
potato. 

Method. — Blanch  and  dry  the  tails.  Place  the  vegetables,  hcibs 
and  peppercorns  in  a  stewpan,  lay  the  tails  on  the  top,  add  a  kttle 
salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  with  bacon.  Add  stock  to  nearly  cover  the 
vegetables,  put  on  the  lid,  which  must  fit  closely,  and  cook  gently  for 

2  hours,  adding  a  little  more  stock  from  time  to  time.     Serve  in  a 
border  of  mashed  potatoes  with  the  sauce  poured  over    the    ine.it. 

Time.— -About  J  hours.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  lambs'  t;iils  IMHU; 
seldom  sold.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to 
October. 


574  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

982.— LEG  OF  LAMB,  FRENCH  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Gigot  d'Agneau  a  la  Franpaise.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  leg  of  lamb  boned,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  i  clove  of  bruised  garlic, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  onion  sliced,  i  carrot  sliced,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  parsley,  shallot,  garlic,  and  a  good  seasoning  of 
salt  and  pepper  together,  and  sprinkle  the  mixture  on  the  inner  surface 
of  the  meat.  Bind  the  meat  into  a  good  shape,  place  it  in  a  baking- 
tin  containing  the  butter,  onion  and  carrot,  and  season  well  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Bake  for  £  an  hour  in  a  hot  oven,  and  afterwards  at  a 
lower  temperature  until  the  meat  is  cooked.  Serve  with  gravy  made 
from  the  bones  and  the  sediment  in  the  baking- tin  (see  "  Gravies  "). 

Time. — Allow  20  minutes  per  Ib.  Average  Cost,  i  id.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 

983.— LOIN    OF    LAMB,    ROLLED    AND    BRAISED. 

(Fr. — Longe  d'Agneau  Braisee.) 

Ingredients. — i  loin  cf  lamb,  a  mirepoix  of  vegetables  (see  "  Shoulder 
of  Lamb,  Braised  "),  stock,  glaze,  cooked  peas,  spinach  or  cucumber, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones,  season  the  inner  surface  of  the  meat 
with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  the  flap  under  as  tightly  as  possible,  and 
bind  with  tape.  Braise  for  about  2  hours  (see  "  Shoulder  of  Lamb, 
Braised  "),  brush  over  with  glaze,  and  serve  on  a  bed  of  cooked  peas, 
spinach,  or  cucumber. 

Time.— About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  i  id.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable,  from  April  to  October. 

984.— MINCED  LAMB.     (Fr.— Emince  d'Agneau.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cooked  lamb,  i  finely-chopped  medium-sized 
onion,  J  of  a  pint  of  gravy  or  stock,  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  £  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of  flour,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  dice,  and  boil  the  bones  and  trim- 
mings for  i  hour  or  longer,  whei  stock  is  needed.  Melt  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly  browned,  add  the  flour,  and 
brown  it  also.  Stir  in  the  gravy  or  stock,  add  the  ketchup  and  season- 
ing to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes.  Put  in  the  meat, 
draw  the  stewpan  aside  where  the  contents  will  be  kept  just  below 
simmering  point,  and  let  it  remain  for  at  least  £  an  hour.  Serve, 
surrounded  by  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  well-boiled  rice,  or  sippets 
of  toasted  bread. 

Time. — From  i  to  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  2d.  Sufficient 
for  3  to  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  October. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    LAMB  575 

985.— NOISETTES  OF  LAMB.      (Fr.— Noisettes  d'Ag- 
neau  a  la  Union.) 

Ingredients. — i  loin  of  lamb,  8  artichoke  bottoms,  2  dozen  fresh  button 
mushrooms,  2^  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
%  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  finely-chopped  chive,  chervil  and  tarragon, 
the  juice  of  \  a  lemon,  i  tablespoonful  of  warm  meat  glaze  or  i  teaspoon- 
ful of  meat  extract,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  demi-glace  sauce 
(see  Sauces),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  fillet  from  the  loin,  and  divide  it  into  8  slices, 
which,  when  properly  cut,  are  round  and  entirely  free  from  fat.  Pre- 
pare the  mushrooms,  chop  them  finely,  and  fry  them  lightly  in  i  oz. 
of  butter.  Warm  the  artickoke  bottoms  in  the  stock  ;  to  the  mush- 
room puree  add  the  lemon-juice,  herbs,  glaze,  or  meat  juice,  season  to 
taste,  mix  well  together  over  the  fire,  then  fill  the  artichokes  with  the 
preparation,  and  keep  them  warm.  Heat  the  remainder  of  the  butter 
in  a  saute-pan,  and  fry  the  noisettes  quickly  until  lightly  browned. 
Arrange  in  2  rows  on  a  hot  dish,  place  an  artichoke  bottom  on  the  top 
of  each,  pour  the  demi-glace  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons. 

986.-  RAGOUT  OF  LAMB  WITH  SORREL. 

(Fr.— Ragout  d'Agneau  a  1'Oseille') 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  Ib.  of  nock  or  breast  of  lamb,  J  a  pint  of  boiling 
stock,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion,  i  small  carrot,  i  strip 
of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsU-y,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  the  yolks  of  2 
eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  ^  of  a  pint  of  sorrel  puree,  or,  if  more 
convenient,  {  of  a  pint  of  spinach  puree  mixed  with  the  juice  of  £  a 
lemon,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  meat,  and  blanch  it  by  putting  it  into  cold  water, 
bringing  it  slowly  to  the  boil,  and  then  immersing  it  for  a  few  minutes 
in  seasoned  salt  water.  Drain,  dry  well,  and  cut  into  2-inch  squares. 
H-Mt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  fry  the  sliced  vegetables  for  15 
minutes,  but  do  not  let  them  brown.  Now  sprinkle  in  the  Hour,  stir  and 
cook  for  3  or  4  minutes,  then  add  the  boiling  stock,  herbs,  J  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  i  the  quantity  of  pepper,  and  stir  until  smooth.  Lay 
the  pieces  of  ine.it  in  the  sauce,  put  on  the  lid.  which  should  fit  closely, 
and  simmer  very  gently  for  about  1}  hours.  Meanwhile  cook  the  swrrel 
or  spinach  (see  Vegetables  ,  rub  it  through  a  line  sieve,  and  season  to 
taste.  When  the  meat  is  ready,  pile  it  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish.  Strain 
the  sauce  into  another  stewpan,and  add  the  sorrel  puree  .when  nearly 
boiling  put  in  the  yolks  of  2  eggs  and  cream,  previously  mixed  together, 
and  stir  until  the  sauce  thickens.  Season  to  taste,  pour  over  the  me.it, 
and  serve. 


576  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

987._ROAST  FORE-QUARTER  OF  LAMB. 

(Fr.— Quartier  d'Agneau  Roti.) 

Ingredients. — Fore-quarter  of  lamb,  mint  sauce  (see  No.   256). 

Method. — See  "  Roast  Lamb  "  and  "  Notes  on  Roasting,"  p.  407. 
Serve  with  gravy  made  from  the  sediment  in  the  roasting-tin,  and 
mint  sauce. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours,  according  to  size.  Average  Cost,  i  id.  to  is.  2d. 
Sufficient  for  8  to  12  persons,  according  to  weight.  Seasonable,  grass 
lamb  from  March  to  September. 

988.— ROAST  LAMB.     (Fr.— Agneau  Roti.) 

•  Lamb,  when  roasting,  requires  more  attention  than  any  other  kind 
of  meat  No  part  of  it  must  be  underdone,  and  to  secure  this  result 
without  drying  and  hardening  the  thinner  portions  to  an  undesirable 
degree,  much  care  is  necessary.  The  intense  heat  to  which  all  meat 
must  first  be  subjected  for  a  few  minutes  is  applied  for  too  short  a 
time  to  affect  the  colour  of  a  joint  kept  constantly  in  motion,  and  the 
subsequent  browning  and  over-cooking  of  any  part  may  be  obviated 
by  covering  the  meat  with  2  or  3  folds  of  well-greased  paper,  and  by 
frequent  basting.  The  amount  of  heat  applied  to  any  part  may  be 
regulated  by  raising  or  lowering  the  joint  on  the  spit,  and  the  rate  of 
cooking  by  increasing  or  decreasing  the  distance  between  the  joint 
and  the  fire.  See  "  Notes  on  Roasting,"  p.  407. 

989._SHOULDER   OF   LAMB,    BRAISED. 

(Fr.— Epaule  d'Agneau  Braisee.) 

Ingredients. — A  shoulder  of  lamb,  larding  bacon,  i  pint  of  stock, 
3  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  2  shallots  finely-chopped,  i  tcaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley.  For  the  mirepoix  :  2  onions,  2  carrots,  £  a 
small  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns. 
Meat  glaze. 

Method. — Bone  the  shoulder,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll 
up  tightly,  and  bind  securely  with  string.  Cut  the  lardoons,  or  strips 
of  bacon  for  insertion  in  the  meat,  about  2  inches  long,  and  rather 
more  than  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  insert  close  rows  in  the  rolled 
meat.  Slice  the  vegetables,  and  put  them  into  a  large braize-pan  with 
\\  ozs.  of  butter,  place  the  meat  on  the  top,  cover  closely,  and  cook 
gently  for  20  minutes.  Add  the  herbs,  peppercorns,  and  stock  to 
nearly  cover  the  vegetables,  place  a  buttered  paper  over  the  meat,  put 
pn  the  lid,  and  braise  in  the  oven  for  ?  hours,  J  an  hour  before  serving, 


ENTREES. 


I.  Chaud-froid  of  Lamb  Cutlets.         2.  Chicken  Timbales,  in  Aspic. 
3.  Stuffed  Larks,  in  Cases. 


r 


SUPPER  DISHES. 


[.  Savory  Mince  Croustades.         2.  Beef  Polantine.  3-  Fish  Kedgeree. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   LAMB 

melt  the  remaining  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallots  slightly,  then 
add  the  flour  and  cook  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour.  When  the 
meat  is  ready,  remove  the  strings,  brush  it  over  with  stock  reduced  to 
glaze,  and  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  crisp  the  bacon. 
Strain  the  stock,  increase  the  quantity  to  J  of  a  pint,  pour  it  over  the 
brown  roux  or  thickening,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Add  to  it  the  parsley, 
season  to  taste,  simmer  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  serve  in  a  sauce-boat. 
Cooked  tomatoes,  mushrooms,  fancifully-cut  turnips  and  carrots, 
small  timbales  of  spinach  or  green  pea  puree,  haricots  verts  and  mace- 
doine  are  all  suitable  garnish  for  this  dish. 

Time. — To  braise,  about  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  id.  per  Ib. 

Note. — The   loin,  neck  or  breast  may    be  cooked  in  this  manner.      ! 
furred,   the  shoulder  may  be  stuffed  with  sausage  meat   or  veal   forcei 
and  the  larding  may  in  all  cases  be  omitted,  if  more  convenient. 

990.— SHOULDER  OF  LAMB,  STUFFED. 

(Fr. — Epaule  d'Agneau  Farcie. 

Ingredients. — A  shoulder  of  lamb,  veal  forcemeat.  No.  396,  £  ()*  ^  pint 
of  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  2  or  3  ozs.  of  dripping. 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones  and  boil  them  for  at  least  i  hour  for 
stock.  Flatten  the  meat  with  a  cutlet-bat  or  heavy  knife,  s>< 
well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  spread  on  the  forcemeat.  Roll  up 
lightly,  tic  securely  with  string,  and  place  in  a  baking-tin  in  which  tin- 
dripping  has  been  previously  melted.  Baste  well,  put  it  into  a  moc': 
oven,  and  cook  gently  for  about  i£  hours,  basting  frequently.  Mean- 
while fry  the  butter  and  flour  together  until  well  browned,  add  the 
prepared  stock,  stir  until  boiling,  and  season  to  taste.  Remove  the 
meat  and  keep  it  hot,  pour  oil  the  fat  without  disturbing  the  sediment 
in  the  tin.  and  add  the  brown  sauce.  Replace  the  meat,  and  cook  it 
gently  for  20  minutes  longer,  basting  frequently  meanwhile.  Serve 
with  a  little  sauce  poured  over  the  meat,  and  send  the  remainder  to 
table  in  a  tureen.  If  preferred,  the  meat  may  be  braised  according  t<> 
directions  given  in  reference  to  "  Loin  of  Lamb,  Rolled  and  Braised." 

Time.  -About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  iid.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 


U 


RECIPES  FOR  COOKING 
:        MUTTON 

CHAPTER    XIX 

991.— BAKED  SHOULDER  OF  MUTTON,  STUFFED. 

(Fr.—  Epaule  de  Mouton  Farcie.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  shoulder  of  mutton,  veal  forcemeat,  No.  396, 
£  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  2  or  3  ozs.  of 
dripping,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Have  all  the  bones  removed  from  the  shoulder,  and  boil 
them  down  for  stock.  Flatten  the  meat,  using  either  a  wetted  cutlet- 
bat  or  rolling-pin  for  the  purpose.  Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper, 
spread  on  the  forcemeat,  roll  up  tightly  and  bind  securely  with  string. 
Have  ready  the  baking-tin  with  the  dripping  melted,  baste  the  meat 
well,  put  it  into  a  moderate  oven,  and  cook  gently  for  i-£  hours,  basting 
frequently.  Meanwhile  fry  together  the  butter  and  flour  until  a 
brown  roux,  or  thickening,  is  formed,  strain  on  to  it  f  of  a  pint  of  stock 
made  from  the  bones  (which  should  be  boiled  for  at  least  2  hours), 
stir  the  sauce  until  it  boils,  and  season  to  taste.  When  the  meat  has 
cooked  for  i£  hours,  drain  off  every  particle  of  fat,  but  leave  the  sedi- 
ment in  the  tin,  pour  in  the  brown  sauce,  return  to  the  oven,  and  cook 
\  an  hour  longer,  basting  frequently.  When  ready,  serve  on  a  hot 
dish,  pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  over  the  meat,  and  send  the  remainder 
to  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  about  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to 
lod.  per  Ib. 

Note. — Either  leg,  loin  or  neck  of  mutton  may  be  cooked  according  to  the 
above  recipe  ;  and  when  preferred,  onion  farce,  or  stuffing,  No.  404,  may  be 
substituted  for  the  veal  forcemeat. 

THE  POETS  ON  SHEEP. — The  keeping  of  flocks  was  one  of  the  earliest  employments  of  mankind, 
and  the  most  ancient  kind  of  poetry  was  probably  pastoral.  The  oldest  representations  we  have 
of  the  poetic  character  of  pastoral  life  are  those  found  in  books  of  the  Old  Testament,  which  describe 
the  shepherd  life  of  the  patriarchs.  Pastoral  poetry  in  the  classic  sense  of  the  term  had  its  origin  in 
Greece,  and  Theocritus  (third  century  B.«.)  is  the  earliest  and  most  illustrious  of  the  pastoral  poets. 
Virgil  at  a  later  period  represents  pastoral  poetry  in  Roman  literature,  his  Bucolics  with  charming 
grace  setting  forth  the  simplicity  and  sweetness  of  country  life.  Tasso  and  Ronsard  wrote  on  pas- 
toral subjects  ;  and  among  our  fenglish  poetical  works  are  Spencer's  Shepherd's  Calendar,  Browne's 
Britannia's  Pastorals,  Gay's  Shepherd's  Week,  Gray's  Elegy,  Thomson's  Seasons,  and  Allan  Ramsay's 
Gentle  Shepherd.  In  all  such  pastorals  the  allusions  to  the  sheep  are  only  of  inferior  importance  to 
the  shepherds  who  attend  them,  and  these  have  furnished  innumerable  figures  and  similes.  Shakespeare 

C78 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  579 

frequently  compares  men  to  sheep,  as  in  King  Henry  VI.,  when  Gloster  rudely  drives  the  lieutenant 
from  the  side  of  the  monarch,  the  hapless  King  thus  touchingly  speaks  of  his  helplessness  : — 

"  So  flies  the  reckless  shepherd  from  the  wolf  : 
So  first  the  harmless  sheep  doth  yield  his  fleece, 
And  nest  his  throat  unto  the  butcher's  knife." 

In  the  Two  Gentlemen  of  Verona  we  meet  with  the  following  humorous  comparison  : — 
"  PROTEUS.     The  sheep  for  fodder  follow  the  shepherd,  the  shepherd  for  food  follows  not  the 

sheep ; 

Thou  for  wages  followest  thy  master,  thy  master  for  wages  followest  not  thee  ;  therefore 
thou  art  a  sheep. 

SPEED.     Such  another  proof  will  make  me  cry  baa." 

Burn's  Elegy  on  Poor  Mailie,  his  only  "  pet  yowe,"  is  familiar  to  every  one  : — 
"  Thro*  a*  the  town  she  stroll'd  by  him  ; 
A  lang  half  mile  she  could  descry  him  ; 
Wi'  kindly  Me.it,  when  she  did  spy  him 

She  ran  wi*  speed ; 
A  friend  mair  faithfu*  ne'er  cam'  nigh  him, 

Than  Mailie  dead. 
I  wat  she  was  a  sheep  o*  sense. 
An'  could  behave  hersel*  wi*  mensc ; 
I'll  say't  she  never  brake  a  fence, 

Thro*  thievish  greed. 
Our  bardie,  lonely,  keeps  the  spence, 
bailie's  dead." 

992.— BOILED  MUTTON.     (Fr.— Mouton  bouilli.) 

The  leg,  neck  and  breast  are  the  parts  usually  selected  for  boiling. 
When  intended  for  this  purpose,  the  meat  should  not  be  allowed  to 
hang  many  days,  for  the  least  taint  spoils  the  flavour  of  boiled  mutton. 
'I "no  often  the  natural  flavour  of  a  boiled  joint  is  overpowered  by  the 
flavour  of  the  vegetables  with  which  it  is  cooked.  To  avoid  this, 
only  the  quantity  sufficient  to  impart  a  slight  flavour  should  be  cooked 
in  the  liquor,  and  the  remainder  boiled  separately.  The  flavour 
of  the  meat  is  thus  preserved,  and  the  vegetables  are  a  better  colour 
when  cooked  more  quickly  than  is  possible  if  their  rate  of  cooking  is 
ad-.ptcd  to  the  meat.  The  side  of  the  joint  intended  to  be  dis 
up\vard>  should  be  put  downwards  in  the  boiling-pot,  for  however 
gentle  the  ebullition  of  the  water  may  be,  its  action  somewhat  spoils 
the  upper  surface  of  the  meat.  Moreover,  any  scum  that  is  not  removed 
(1  n ing  the  process  of  cooking  is  apt  to  fall  on  the  upper  surface  of  the 
.  and  impair  its  appearance.  For  particulars  as  to  time  required 
p.  429. 

THK  (,<x.r>  SHU-HERD.— The  office  of  the  Eastern  shepherd  was  one  of  hardship  and  even  of  danger 
II.   u a    .-i ;«>sed  to  the  rx  it  and  cold.     His  food  was  precarious,  consisting  often  of  wild 

ks  of  wild  beasts,  inrluHitiK  tho  h,.n.  the  wolf,  the 
also  exposed  to  the  risk  of  roving  bands  of  robbers.     The  shepherd 

•nrc,  watched  over  th«-m  whilr  ;•  hod  them  with  water    and  at 

nicht  enclosed  his  flock  in  the  fold,  defending  it  fr  1  beasts  and  predatory  bands, 

sheep  was  missing,  he  searched  for  it  until  it  was  f..Un«l.     The  Eastern  shepherd's  office  was* 

mess  in  caring  for  the  wrak  and  the 
1  his  sheep.    The 

-'  *•*£  -i-'1   V**T*  t!"'  Ali   u:ti?v   -     -  ,-k   Hi-  s.-rv.,;,:.     0«B   Lord, 
-  i  h'-<  n  <!|s(  ipl.-s   t"  \T>  -i.  h    tti'-  '  .•  •-!«•!   .,-          .•'',.  K  •   •]•  !•••!!.  \  r   /':•••>•.:  .•...:-.  ;..,;.-- 


tney  ooey  DIS  voice,  recognize  ti\<-  ; 

utiftil   ficur. 

•    tenderness  for  mankind.     "  The 

!;i^  lif-- f"r  t!  •  •    John,  x.  ti).     "I  ^hepberd.  and  know 

an.l  am  kn  lohn.  x.  14).     "  And  other  sh< •••  hn  h  arc  not  of 

>r  My  voice ;  and  there  shall  be  one  fold,  and 
one  shepherd  "  (St.  John,  x 


580  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

993._BONED  LEG  OF  MUTTON,  STUFFED. 

(Fr. — Gigot  de  Mouton  farci.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  leg  of  mutton  boned,  2  ozs.  of  finely-chopped 
ham  or  bacon,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
finely-chopped  suet,  2  finely-chopped  shallots,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  -J-  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-rind,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered mixed  herbs,  i  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper, 
i  egg,  milk,  brown  sauce  or  gravy  (see  "  Sauces  and  Gravies  "). 

Method. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  adding  the  needful 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Moisten  with  the  egg  and  as  much 
milk  as  is  necessary  to  bind  the  whole  together,  press  the  mixture 
into  the  cavity  whence  the  bone  was  taken,  and  secure  the  opening. 
Roast  before  a  clear  fire,  or  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  from  2|- 
to  2^  hours,  and  when  ready,  serve  with  brown  sauce  or  good  gravy. 

Time. — About  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 

994.— BRAIN  AND  TONGUE  PUDDING. 

(Fr. — Pouding  de  Cervelles  et  Langue.) 

Ingredients. — 4  sheeps'  tongues,  4  sheep's  brains,  i  hard-boiled  egg 
sliced,  i  shallot  finely-chopped,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
i  teaspoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  suet  paste. 

Method. — Let  the  tongues  and  brains  soak  in  salt  and  water  for  2 
or  3  hours,  then  cover  the  former  with  hot  stock  or  water,  and  simmer 
gently  until  the  skin  can  be  removed.  Line  a  basin  with  some  of  the 
paste  (see  "  Beef  Steak  Pudding  "),  slice  the  tongues,  chop  the  brains 
coarsely,  place  them  in  the  basin  in  alternate  layers,  sprinkling  each 
layer  with  shallot,  parsley,  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  and  intersperse  with 
slices  of  boiled  egg.  Add  the  milk,  cover  with  suet  paste  (see  pastes) 
and  boil  for  3  hours,  or  steam  for  3^  hours. 

Time. — From  3  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

995.— BRAISED  LEG  OF  MUTTON.      (Fr.— Gigot  de 
Mouton  braise.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  leg  of  mutton.  For  the  mirepoix  :  2  onions 
thickly  sliced,  2  carrots  thickly  sliced,  i  small  turnip  thickly  sliced,  a 
bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  10  peppercorns.  For  the 
sauce:  \\  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  2  shallots  finely-chopped, 
i  pint  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  stock  or  water. 

Method. — Put  the  mirepoix  into  a  braising-pan  or  large  stewpan, 
nearly  cover  with  boiling  stock  or  water,  lay  the  meat  on  the  top, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  581 

and  wrap  round  it  a  well-greased  paper.  Put  on  the  lid,  which  should 
fit  closely,  and  cook  gently  from  3  to  3^  hours,  adding  more  stock  or 
water  as  that  in  the  pan  becomes  reduced.  Half  an  hour  before  serving 
melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallots  lightly,  then  add  the 
flour,  and  cook  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour.  Keep  the  meat 
hot,  strain  the  stock,  increase  the  quantity  to  i  pint,  pour  it  over  tho 
browned  flour  and  butter,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season  to  taste, 
boil  gently  for  ten  minutes,  then  pour  a  little  over  the  meat,  and  serve 
the  remainder  in  a  tureen.  Cooked  tomatoes,  mushrooms,  fancifully- 
cut  turnips  and  carrots,  small  timbales  of  spinach  or  green  pea  puree, 
haricots  verts  and  macedoine  are  all  suitable  garnishes  for  this  dish. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 

996.— BRAISED  MUTTON,  PROVENCE  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Mouton  braise  a  la  Proven^ale.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  leg  of  mutton  (or  shoulder,  loin  or  neck,  if 
preferred).  For  the  mirepoix,  or  foundation  :  3  ozs.  of  butter,  2  large 
onions,  2  carrots,  i  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquct-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  10  peppercorns,  i  quart  of  stock.  For  the  farce  : 
2  ozs.  of  lean  raw  ham,  2  ozs.  of  pork  or  veal,  2  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs, 
6  button  mushrooms,  preferably  fresh  ones,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  grated  lemon-rind,  i  shallot  finely-chopped,  2  yolks  and 
i  white  of  eggs,  salt  and  pepper.  For  the  Provencale  sauce  :  i  pint 
of  brown  sauce,  i  tomato,  i  onion,  2  large  fresh  mushrooms,  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  glaze. 

Method. — Bone  the  leg  as  far  as  the  knuckle.     Pass  the  ham  and  pork 
or  veal  2  or  3  times  through  a  mincing  machine,  pound  it  well  with 
the  breadcrumbs,  herbs,  lemon  rind,  parsley,  shallot  and  eggs,  s 
to  taste,  and  when  smooth,    rub  through  a  v  .     Add  to  the 

farce  the  mushrooms  cut  into  small  pieces,  press  it  lightly  into  the  i 
of  the  leg,  and  sew  up  the  opening.  Slice  the  vegetables,  place  them 
at  the  bottom  of  a  large  stewpan  with  the  butter,  bouquet-garni,  and 
peppercorns,  and  on  the  top  of  these  lay  the  meat.  I'ut  on  the  lid, 
cook  gently  for  £  an  hour,  then  add  as  much  hot  stock  as  will  3 
parts  cover  the  vegetables  and  the  remainder  to  make  good  the  re* 
n  in  the  pan.  Cover  the  meat  with  a  buttered  paper,  put  on  the 
ok  gently  for  2  hours,  basting  frequently,  then  transfer  from 
the  stewpan  to  a  hot  baking- tin,  and  continue  the  cooking  for  J  of  an 
hour  longer,  keeping  the  meat  well  basted  with  hot  butter  or  fat. 
Strain  the  liquor,  and  either  boil  it  down  to  glaze,  or  use  it  to  make 
the  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces'.  Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  small  stewpan, 
add  the  tomato,  onion  and  mushrooms,  all  of  which  should  be  prcvi- 


582         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

ously  sliced,  put  in  the  parsley,  cook  gently  for  15  or  20  minutes,  and 
add  the  brown  sauce,  boil  lor  15  minutes  longer.  Season  to  taste, 
rub  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  or  tammy-cloth,  re-heat,  add  the  lemon - 
juice,  and  keep  hot  until  required.  Place  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish, 
brush  it  over  with  warm  glaze,  garnish  it  with  baked  tomatoes,  mush- 
rooms au  gratin,  braised  olives,  or  fancifully-cut  glazed  vegetables, 
and  serve  the  sauce  separately. 

Time. — From  3^  to  3^  hours.    Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.     Seasonable 
at  any  time. 


997.  —BREAST  OF  MUTTON,  GRILLED  OR  BROILED. 

(Fr—  Poitrine  d'Agneau  Grillee.) 

Ingredients. — A  breast  of  mutton,  salt  and  pepper,  tomato,  piquante 
or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Method. — Divide  the  breast  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  and 
trim  away  some  of  the  fat.  Grill  slowly  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire, 
in  order  that  the  meat  may  be  thoroughly  cooked,  turning  frequently 
meanwhile,  and  sprinkling  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  the 
sauce  separately. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 


998.— BREAST  OF  MUTTON,  TO  COLLAR. 

Ingredients. — A  breast  of  mutton  boned,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  bread- 
crumbs, i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  capers,  i  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  -}  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  vinegar,  a  good  pinch  of  nut- 
meg, salt  and  pepper,  i  yolk  of  egg. 

Method. — Make  a  forcemeat  of  the  above  ingredients,  taking  care  to 
season  it  rather  highly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Flatten  the  meat,  spread 
the  forcemeat  evenly,  roll  up  as  lightly  as  possible,  and  secure  with 
string.  Put  the  roll  into  a  stewpan  containing  just  sufficient  stock 
to  cover  it,  or  failing  stock,  use  water  and  add  the  bones  removed  from 
the  meat,  also  vegetables  and  herbs  to  give  flavour.  Simmer  very 
gently  for  2\  hours,  then  transfer  to  an  earthenware  vessel,  and  strain 
the  stock.  Add  to  it  half  its  quantity  of  vinegar  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  salt,  and  pour  the  mixture  over  the  meat,  which  it  should  completely 
cover.  It  should  remain  for  at  least  5  or  6  days  before  being  used, 
and  may  be  kept  for  a  much  longer  time,  but  the  liquor  must  be  boiled 
up  twice  a  week,  and  not  replaced  until  quite  cold. 

Time. — To  cook,  2\  hours.  To  pickle,  5  or  6  days.  Average  Cost, 
6d.  per  Ib. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING   MUTTON  583 

999.— BROILED  BREAST  OF  MUTTON  WITH 
CAPER  SAUCE.  (Fr.—  Poitrine  de  Mouton 
aux  Capres.) 

Ingredients. — A  breast  of  mutton,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs, 
i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  suet,  i  dessertspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  milk,  salt  and 
pepper,  £  a  pint  of  caper  sauce,  No.  182,  stock,  or  water;  when  using 
the  latter,  add  i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  small  turnip,  10  peppercorns  and 
salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones  and  any  superfluous  fat,  flatten  the 
meat  and  season  it  well.  Mix  the  breadcrumbs,  suet,  parsley,  herbs, 
and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  together,  and  moisten  with 
milk.  Spread  the  mixture  on  the  meat,  roll  up  lightly,  and  bind 
securely  with  string.  Put  it  into  the  stock  or  water  when  boiling  (see 
"  Notes  on  Boiling,"  p  429),  simmer  gently  for  2  hours,  then 
with  the  caper  sauce  poured  over. 

Tims. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  all  the 
year. 

THE  ORDER  OF  THE  GOLDEM  FLEECE.— This  military  Order,  the  Toison  d'Or,  at  the 
time  the  highest  Order  of  the  Austrian  and  the  Spanish  courts  was  founded,  1^29,  by  Philip  III 
"  thrdood"  Duke  of  Burgundy,  and  of  the  Netherlands  on  the  occasion  of  his  marriage  with  tin-  Prin- 
cess Isabella  of  Portugal.  Its  emblem,  worn  suspended  from  the  collar  of  the  Order,  i-  ti. 
of  a  sheep  or  fleece  in  gold,  and  probably  owes  its  origin  to  the  circumstance  that  the  Nether- 
lands were  the  principal  seat  of  the  woollen  manufactures.  The  original  number  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Order  was  thirty-one,  including  the  sovereign  at  its  head.  In  1316  the  Order  was  en- 
larged by  Pope  Leo  X  to  fifty-two.  The  Duke  of  Burgundy  was  the  hereditary  Grand  Master 
until  the  Order,  together  with  their  dominions,  passed  from  the  Dukes  of  Burgundy  to  An-tn.i. 
In  1700  the  (.ifnii.in  Kmperor.  Charles  VI,  by  virtue  of  his  possession  of  the  Netherlands,  and  Philip 
V,  Kiii£  of  Sp.iin.  l*>th  l.iid  claim  to  the  headship  of  the  Order.  The  former,  however,  when 
unable  to  maintain  his  supremacy  in  Spain,  took. with  him  the  archives  of  the  Order  to  Vienna,  where 
he  solemnized  with  great  magnificence  its  inauguration  in  1713.  Philip  V,  on  the  other  hand,  declared 
hinwlf  Grand  Master,  and  at  the  Congress  of  Cambrai,  1721,  formally  protested  against  th 
smns  <>f  tin-  Kmperor.  The  dispute,  though  settled  subsequently  by  the  intercession  of  France, 
Kntiland  and  Holland,  was  frequently  renewed,  until  the  Order  was  tacitly  introduced  into  both 
i  by  the  names  respectively  of  the  Spanish  or  Austrian  "  Order  of  the  Golden  Fleece,"  ac- 
cording to  the  country  where  it  is  conferred. 

looo.— BROILED    MUTTON  AND    TOMATO    SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Rechauffe  de  Mouton — Sauce  Tomate.) 

Ingredients. — Slices  of  cooked  mutton,  salad-oil  or  melted  fat  or 
butter,  salt  and  pepper,  £  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  (see  "  Sauces  "), 
mashed  potato. 

Method. — Brush  the  meat  over  on  both  sides  with  oil  or  melted  fat, 
sprinkle  carefully  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  broil  quickly  over  a  clear 
Serve  on  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  with  the  sauce  poured 
round. 

Time. — From  10  to  15  minutes.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

looi.— BROILED  OR  GRILLED  KIDNEYS. 

(Fr. — Rognons  de  Mouton  Grilles.) 

Ingredients.  Sheep's  kidmys,  s.dt  and  pepper,  salad-oil  or  oiled 
butter. 


584         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Split  the  kidneys  lengthwise  down  to  the  root,  remove  the 
skin,  turn  each  half  back,  and  run  a  skewer  through  them  to  keep 
them  flat.  Brush  over  with  salad-oil  or  piled  butter,  and  broil  quickly 
over  a  clear  fire,  taking  care  to  cook  the  cut  side  first.  Remove  the 
skewers,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 5  to  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  each.  Sufficient,  i  to 
each  person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — See  "  Kidneys  Grilled,"  also  recipes  for  cooking  ox-kidney. 

1002.— CHAUD-FROID  OF  MUTTON  CUTLETS. 

(Fr. — Cotelettes  de  Mouton  en  Chaud-froid.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  10  cutlets  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  6  ozs.  of 
liver  farce,  No.  398,  6  leaves  of  French  gelatine,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato 
sauce,  £  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce,  dressed  salad,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Braise  "the  neck  as  directed  in  recipe  No.  1052  ;  when  cold 
cut  it  into  neat  cutlets,  trim  off  the  greater  part  of  the  fat,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  one  side  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  liver 
farce.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water,  and 
divide  it  equally  between  the  tomato  and  Bechamel  sauces,  which 
should  be  warm  when  the  gelatine  is  added.  Let  the  sauces  cool 
slightly,  then  coat  the  covered  sides  of  the  cutlets,  making  one  half 
red  and  the  other  white.  Let  them  remain  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place 
until  the  sauce  is  quite  set,  then  arrange  them  in  a  circle  in  alternate 
colours,  place  a  frill  on  each  cutlet,  and  serve  the  dressed  salad  in  the 
centre. 

Time. — i|-  hours  after  the  meat  is* cooked.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  45. 
Sufficient  for  7  to  8  persons. 

Note. — Brown  sauce  may  be  substituted  for  the  white,  the  combination 
of  red  and  brown  being  very  effective  ;  or  a  green  chaud-froid  sauce  may  be 
used  instead  of  the  tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces). 

1003.— CHAUDFROID    OF    FILLETS   OF    MUTTON. 
(Fr.— Chaud-Froid  de  Noisettes  de  Mouton.)  - 

Ingredients. — The  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  oz. 
of  ham  or  lean  bacon,  \  a  glass  of  sherry,  £  of  a  pint  of  good  stock, 
i  onion,  i  small  carrot,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  3 
peppercorns,  I  clove,  glaze,  dressed  salad,  2  whites  of  eggs,  i  truffle, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  lean  part  from  the  neck  of  mutton,  and  cut  it 
into  slices  about  \  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Slice  the  vegetables,  cut 
the  ham  into  small  pieces,  and  place  them  in  a  saut6-pan  with  the 
butter,  sherry,  stock,  herbs,  clove  and  peppercorns.  Season  the  noisettes 
on  botfc  sides  with  salt  and  pepper,  lay  them  on  the  top  of  the  vege- 
tables, cover  with  buttered  paper,  cook  slowly  on  the  stove  or  in  the 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  585 

oven  for  40  minutes,  basting  frequently,  then  press  them  between 
j  dishes  until  cold.  Season  the  whites  of  eggs  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  steam  in  a  buttered  dariol  mould  until  firm,  then  cut  into  thin 
slices,  which  must  afterwards  be  stamped  into  rounds  i  irch  in  diameter. 
Cut  the  trulflc  into  thin  strips  about  i  inch  in  length,  and  rather  less 
than  |  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  If  necessary,  trim  the  noisettes  to 
make  them  a  uniform  round  shape  ;  brush  one  side  over  with  meat  glaze, 
place  a  round  of  white  of  egg  in  the  centre  of  each,  and  over  it  4  or  5 
strips  of  truffle,  lattice-work  style.  Arrange  the  noisettes  in  a 
circle,  slightly  overlapping  each  other,  fill  the  centre  with  the 
dressed  salad,  and  garnish  the  base  of  the  dish  between  the  noisettes 
with  tufts  of  endive,  fancifully-cut  slices  of  cucumber,  and,  if  con- 
venient, cubes  of  aspic  jelly. 

Time. — 3  hours.      Average  Cost,  35.  9d.  to  45.      Sufficient   for  7  or  8 
persons. 

Note. — For  noisettes  of  mutton  to  be  served  hot,  see  "  Noisettes  d'Ar 
recipe  No.  985. 

THE  Downs.—  The  well-known  -  Ik  in  its  chemical   composition  ;  ;  ure  car- 

:  liiiif.     \\ii  ,:id  examined  under  the  micros* 

fragments  of  corals.  sponge-or. 
i  and  the  palyzoa  •    rm  Ih- 

sub-soil  n  as  the  South  Downs  start 

!-•«!,  traverse  the  county  t>f  Sussex  from  east  to  «• 

i  Godaltning,  by  Godstone. 
•    t  hr-5  from  Dover  to  Ramsgate.     The  Downs 

trees  and  shnit  The  coombc* 

and  furrows  which  r  •  •  d<vp  v.illeys,  resemble  dried-up  channels  of  streams  and 

rival,  N  ..n  the  Downs.     The 

vquent  on  the  dryness  of  the  air 
!  mil.  is  eminmtlv  ' 

the  South-Down  breed  of  sheep  is  highly  valued  for  its  dc.hV.itc  flavour,  and  the  wool 
for  its  fineness. 

1004.— FILLET     OF    MUTTON,     TO     DRESS. 

(Fr. — Filet  de  Mouton.) 

Ingredients.— A   la  n,  veal  forcemeat   (see  "  Force- 

-;ii:.'bl«-  brown  sauce. 

Method.     This  method  :  '  to  a  small  household  v. 

cold  meat  is  disliked.      Cut  of!  the  knuckle  part  which,  braised  or  1  • 
will  supply  a  dinner  on  a  following  clay,      1'min  the  other  « 
leg  err  ;>iece.  tlr  :  the  lillet  3  or  more  inches  in 

thickness.  bone,  flatten  the  meat  with  a  cutlet-bat  or 

rolling-pin,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepj  pread  on  the  force- 

Re  >11  up  tightly,  bind  securely  with  string,  and  either  boil,  braise,* 
cording  to  the  di:  under  respective  head- 

thc  fillet  may  be  grilled,  or  roasted  in  a  Dutch 
neat,  of  course,  being  omitted.      It  will  be  found  < 

lent    if  lightly    fried,    and    atti:  wards  ;  \  ed    with 

ea  or   mushrooms.     (See  also  "  Oxford  John,"   No.  1055,   and 
'ton   Pudding.") 


586  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1005.— FRENCH  HASH.      (Fr.—  Mirliton  de  Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  Patna  rice,  3  ozs.  of  preserved  cherries,  4  ozs. 
of  prunes,  2  Ib.  of  cold  shoulder  or  leg  of  mutton,  paprika  pepper  and 
salt,  £  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  No.  244. 

Mode. — Boil  the  rice  in  a  large  saucepan  with  plenty  of  seasoned  water 
until  tender,  when  drain  and  dry  well.  Cut  the  meat  into  neat  pieces, 
and  put  it  into  the  sauce,  which  must  be  first  made  hot.  Allow  it  to 
simmer  very  gently  for  an  hour,  then  add  the  prunes,  previously 
stewed  and  stoned,  also  the  cherries  and  rice.  Season  carefully  with 
paprika  pepper  and  salt. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1006.— FRIED  KIDNEY.     (Fr.— Rognons  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — Sheep's  kidneys,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  kidneys  open  lengthwise,  but  without  quite  dividing 
them,  and  remove  the  skins.  Run  a  skewer  through  them  to  keep  them 
flat,  place  the  kidneys,  cut  side  down,  in  a  frying-pan  containing  a  little 
hot  butter,  and  fry  quickly  on  both  sides.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
pour  a  little  hot  gravy  round  them  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 5  or  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  each.  Sufficient,  i  for 
each  person.  Seasonabb  at  any  time. 

1007.— GRILLED  MUTTON  WITH  TOMATO  SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Tranches  de  Mouton  Grillees,  Sauce 
Tomate.) 

Ingredients. — Two  slices  of  mutton,  about  an  inch  in  thickness,  cut 
from  the  middle  of  the  leg,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce.  For  the  marin- 
ade :  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  vinegar,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  |  of  a  teaspoxmful 
of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  a  pinch  of  powdered  mixed  herbs, 
i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  potato  garnish. 

Method. — Put  the  slice  of  meat  on  to  a  dish,  pour  over  it  the  marinade, 
and  let  it  remain  for  2  hours,  turning  and  basting  occasionally.  When 
ready  to  cook,  drain,  dry  well,  brush  over  with  salad-oil  or  warm 
butter,  and  grill  over  a  clear  fire  for  about  15  minutes.  Have  ready 
the  tomato  sauce  and  some  crisply  fried  straws,  ribbons,  or  chips 
of  potato,  place  the  meat  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  potatoes  round  the 
base,  and  serve  the  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat.  The  dish  may  be  varied 
by  serving  with  it  mushroom  sauce  and  baked  tomatoes,  or  baked 
or  stewed  mushrooms  and  brown  sauce. 

Time. — To  grill  the  meat,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  per  lbr 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING   MUTTON  587 

1008.— HARICOT  MUTTON.  (Fr.— Ragout  de  Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  neck  of  mutton  (or  scrag  end),  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  i £  pints  of  stock  or  water,  i  large  onion  or  12  button 
onions,  2  carrots,  i  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  meat  into  thin  cutlets,  and  trim  off  the  skin 
and  greater  part  of  the  fat.  When  a  large  onion  is  used  cut  it  into 
dice  ;  scoop  the  carrots  and  turnip  into  small  rounds,  about  the  'size 
of  a  Spanish  nut,  or  shape  them  like  small  olives.  Melt  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  meat  until  well  browned  on  both  sides,  then  take 
it  out.  Fry  the  carrot  and  turnip  until  they  acquire  a  good  colour, 
then  drain  them  from  the  butter.  Now  fry  the  onion  dice  or  button 
onions,  and  when  slightly  browned  add  to  them  the  flour,  which 
must  be  cooked  and  stirred  until  it  becomes  nut-brown.  Have  ready 
the  hot  stock,  pour  it  into  the  stewpan,  stir  until  it  boils,  put  in  the 
carrot  and  turnip,  then  add  the  bouquet -garni  and  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  replace  the  meat,  and  stew  gently  for  i^  to  ij  hours. 
Arrange  the  meat  neatly  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sam  r 
over,  and  garnish  with  the  onions,  carrot,  and  turnip. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

Note. — When  a  more  simple  dish  is  required,  fat  may  be  substitut< 
the  butter,  and  the  turnip  and  carrot  cut  into  dice. 

THE  GOLDEN  FLEECE.— The  beautiful  classic  legend  of  the  Golden  Fleece  may  be  briefly  told  as 
Phrixus,  a  son  of  Athamus,  King  of  Thebes,  to  escape  from  the  persecutions  of  Ino,  his 
stepmother,  paid  a  visit  to  the  court  of  his  friend  .-V.etes,  King  of  Colchis.    A  rani,  whose  fl<  • 
<>f  pun-  gold,  carried  the  youth  through  the  air.     On  his  safe  arrival  at  Colchis,  Phrixus  offered  the 
ram  on  the  Altar  of  Ares,  but  kept  the  golden  fleece.     dietes  received  the  youth  with  gre.it    kindness 
and  gave  him  his  daughter  (.  h.driope  in  marriage  ;  but  some  time  after,  he  murdered  Phrixus  to  ob- 
-••ssion  of  the  coveted  fleece.     To  avenge  the  murder  of  Phrixus  and  recover  the  fleece,  which 
was  said  to  be  a  sleepless  dragon,  Jason,  commissioned  bv  his  uncle  P>  is,  commanded 

AnjiiS,  the  son  of  Phnxus,  to  build  a  ship  of  fifty  oars,  which  he  manned  with  fifty  of  the  m 
brated  heroes  in  Greece,  including  Henules  r.i-t.-r  and  Pollux,  Theseus,  and  Orpheu 
nauts,  after  various  adventure-,  re.it -hed  I  ol<  his.  and  King  ./Eetes  promised  Jason  the  Golde 
on  the  condition  that  he  should  yoke  to  a  plough  two  fine-breathing,  braren-hoofed  oxen,  and  ~>\v 
•n's  teeth  which  Cadmus  had  left  at  TheU-v     Hv  the  aid  of  Medea,  the  sorceress,  and  daughter 
of  the  KniR,  who  had  fallen  deeply  in  love  with  Jason,  the  fleece  was  secured,  and  brought  t 
Variou^  interpretations  have  been  given  to  the  legend,  which  probably  refers  to  a  voyage  of  discovery 
to  the  coasts  of  the  Euxine  by  adventurers  inspired  by  the  desire  to  find  new  fields  of  commercial 
entcrp; 

1009. -HOT  POT  (LANCASHIRE). 

Ingredients.— 2  Ib.  of  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  3  sheep's  kid 
12  sauce  oysters,  2  Ib.  of  potatoes,  i  Spanish  onion,  salt   and  p< 
mt  of  gravy,  i  oz.  of  butter,  stock. 

Method. — Divide  the  meat  into  neat  cutlets    trim  off  the  skin  and 
greater  part  of  the  fat.     Put  the  short  rib  bones,  the  lean  trimming 
of  the  meat,  the  beards  of  the  oysters,  and  a  small  onion  into  a  steup.m, 
cover  these  with  cold  water,  and  boil   them  down  for  gravy.      < 
a  In.  proof  baking-dish,  put  in  .1  deep  layer  of  sliced  potato,  on  the  top 


588         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Of  them  arrange  the  cutlets  to  slightly  overlap  each  other,  and  on  each 
place  i  or  2  slices  of  kidney,  and  an  oyster.  Season  well,  put  in  the 
remainder  of  the  potatoes,  but  let  the  top  layer  consist  of  small  potatoes 
cut  in  halves  and  uniformly  arranged  to  improve  the  appearance  of 
the  dish.  Pour  down  the  side  of  the  dish  £  a  pint  of  hot  stock,  or  hot 
Water,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Brush  the  upper  layer  of 
potatoes  over  with  warm  butter,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  bake 
for  2  hours  in  a  moderate  oven.  The  paper  must  be  removed  during 
the  latter  part  of  the  time  to  allow  the  potatoes  to  become  crisp  and 
brown.  When  ready  to  serve,  pour  in  a  little  gravy,  and  send  the  rest 
to  table  in  a  tureen.  The  hot  pot  must  be  served  in  the  dish  in  which 
it  is  baked. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  43.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

Note. — For  a  more  economical  dish,  see  "  Hot  Pot,"  made  of  beef. 

10 10.-  HUNTER'S  MUTTON.  (Fr.— Mouton  a  la  Chas- 
seur.) 

Ingredients. — A  boned  leg  of  mutton,  8  ozs.  of  common  salt,  4  ozs.  of 
bay-salt,  i£  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  i  oz.  of  saltpetre,  i  teaspoonful  of 
ground  allspice,  %  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves,  |  a  nutmeg  grated, 
slices  of  bacon. 

Method. — Mix  the  salting  ingredients  well  together,  and  rub  the 
mixture  over  the  entire  surface  of  the  meat,  the  skin  being  previously 
closely  scored,  to  allow  the  flavour  to  penetrate.  Turn  and  rub  the 
meat  daily  for  a  fortnight,  then  rinse  in  warm  water,  and  bind  it  into 
a  good  shape.  Place  in  a  deep  baking-dish  or  tin  with  about  \  a  pint 
of  water,  cover  first  with  slices  of  bacon,  and  afterwards  with  several 
folds  of  well-greased  paper,  which  must  be  secured  round  the  edge 
of  the  dish  or  tin  to  keep  in  the  steam.  Cook  as  gently  as  possible 
for  4  hours,  press  until  cold,  then  glaze,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — To  pickle,  14  days.  To  cook,  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is. 
per  Ib. 

ion.— IRISH  STEW.      (Fr.— Ragout  a  1'Irlandaise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  neck  of  mutton,  4  Ib.  of  potatoes,  i  large  onion, 
12  button  onions,  i^  pints  of  stock  or  water,  salt  and  pepper,  a  little 
finely-chopped  parsley. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  and  trim 
off  some  of  the  fat.  Wash,  peel,  and  slice  the  potatoes  and  the  large 
onion,  peel  the  button  onions  and  blanch  them.  Put  a  layer  of  potatoes 
at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  cover  these  with  a  layer  of  meat,  add  a 
slice  or  two  of  onion,  and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Repeat 
until  all  the  materials  are  used  ;  the  top  layer  must  consist  of  potato, 
and  the  button  onions  should  be  interspersed.  Add  the  stock  or  water, 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   MUTTON  589 

and  when  it  comes  to  the  boil  skim  well,  but  unless  the  meat  be  very 
iat  very  little  subsequent  skimming  is  needed,  as  the  potatoes  absorb  the 
greater  part  melted  out  of  the  meat.  The  stewpan  must  be  kept 
covered,  and  the  contents  cooked  gently  for  about  i£  hours,  or  until 
the  potatoes  are  thoroughly  cooked  and  the  stew  loses  its  watery  ap- 
pearance. If  liked,  a  teaspoonful  of  mushroom  or  walnut  ketchup 
may  be  added  before  serving.  Pile  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle 
on  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  2  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  2S.  9d.     Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

ioi2.— KIDNEYS,  GRILLED.     (Fr.— Rognons  Grilles.) 

Ingredients. — Kidneys,  croutons   of   fried    bread    or    buttered    toast, 
salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  Mai t re  d'hotel  butter,  sec  fo.   551. 

Method. — Cover  the  kidneys  with  boiling  water,  and  let  them  remain 
in  it  for  2  minutes.     Drain,  dry,  remove  the  skin,  split  in  two  length- 

but  without  detaching  the  halves.     Pass  a  steel  skewer  tl, 
them,  to  keep  them  open,  brush  over  with  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter. 
D  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  grill  them  over  a  elear  fire,  cooking 
the  cut  side  first.     Time  required  for  cookin:-  upon  th 

of  the  kidney  and  individual  taste  ;  5  minutes  will  be  found  sufficient 
for  a  small  kidney,  and  S  minutes  for  a  large  one  ;  kidr.  Imost 

uneatable  wln-i:  H.ivr   the  cronions  ready  and  as  ; 

a  kidney  on  each  with  a  small  pat  of  maitre  d'hotel 
butu-r  in  the  centre  of  each  kidn<  <>nce. 

Time. — To  grill,  from  5  to  8  minutes.     Average  Cost,  jd.  to  4d.  each. 
Sufficient,  i  to  each  person. 

1013.— KIDNEYS,  SAUTED.     (Fr.— Rognons  Sautes.) 

Ingredients. — 3  sheep's  kidneys,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  1> 
sauce,  i  tablespoonful  of  sherry,  i  shallot  finely-chopped,  sal! 
pep] 

Method. — Immerse  the  kidneys  in  boiling  water  for  2  minutes,  drain, 
dry,  remove  the  skins  and  cores,  and  cut  them  into  £  inch  slices.      Heat 
the   butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry   the  shallot   slightly,  put   in   the 
kidney,  and  shake  or   toss  over   the   lire   for   3   or  4  minutes      1 
olf  a  little  of  the  butter,  add  the  brown  sauce,  sherry,  salt  and  pepper, 
stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot,  but  do  not  let  the  mix- 
ture boil.     Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — About  5  or  6  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d.  or  .jd.  each.     Suffi- 
cient, i  kidney  to  each  person. 

r  other  m--t!'.o-ls  of  cooking  kidneys,  sec  recipes  for  dressing  veal 

and    beef    ki.ii, 


590  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1014.— KIDNEY,    RAMAKINS    OF.       (Fr.— Rognons 
Sautes  en  Caisses.) 

Ingredients. — 4  sheep's  kidneys,  8  croutons  of  fried  bread,  i£  ozs.  of 
butter,  i  level  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  ^  of  a  pint  of  good  stock  or 
gravy,  £  a  glass  of  sherry  or  Madeira,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Soak  the  kidneys  for  2  minutes  in  boiling  water,  dry,  re- 
move the  skins  and  cores,  and  slice  them  as  thinly  as  possible.  Heat 
the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  shallot  until  lightly  browned,  add 
the  sliced  kidneys,  toss  them  over  the  fire  for  3  or  4  minutes,  then  draw 
them  to  the  side  of  the  pan  farthest  away  from  the  fire,  and  sprinkle 
the  flour  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan  on  the  side  nearest  the  fire.  Brown 
the  flour  quickly,  then  add  the  wine  and  stock,  stir  until  boiling,  season 
to  taste,  and  draw  the  pan  aside  for  4  or  5  minutes,  but  do  not  let  the 
contents  boil  or  the  kidneys  will  harden.  The  croutons  of  fried  bread 
must  fit  easily  inside  the  ramakin  cases,  which  should  be  heated  in  the 
oven  before  being  used.  Have  the  cases  ready,  with  the  hot  croCitons 
in  them,  fill  each  case  with  kidney  and  sauce,  sprinkle  on  a  little  parsley, 
and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  4d.  each.  Sufficient 
i  to  each  person. 

1015. — KIDNEY  TOAST.  (Fr. — Rognons  sur  Croutes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  sheep's  kidneys,  or  £  a  Ib.  of  bullock's  kidney,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  •£  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  cayenne,  pepper,  salt,  2  slices 
of  hot  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Stew  the  kidneys  in  a  little  stock  or  water  until  tender, 
remove  the  skin  and  gristle,  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar  until  quite 
smooth.  Add  the  butter,  lemon-juice,  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne,  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  pass  the  mixture  through  a  wire  sieve. 
Spread  lightly  on  the  prepared  toast,  make  thoroughly  hot  in  the  oven, 
then  serve. 

Time. — From  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  nd.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons. 

1016.— KNUCKLE  OF  MUTTON,  TO  BOIL. 

Ingredients. — i  knuckle  of  mutton  (see  "  Fillet  of  Mutton,  to  Dress"), 
i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  of  a  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay -leaf),  8  peppercorns,  salt. 

Method. — Prepare  and  slice  the  vegetables.  Place  the  knuckle 
in  a  stewpan  just  large  enough  to  hold  it,  and  containing  sufficient 
boiling  stock  or  water  to  barely  cover  the  meat.  Add  the  vegetables, 
herbs,  peppercorns  and  a  little  salt,  and  simmer  very  gently  for  about 
i£  hours  (see  "  Boiled  Mutton,"  also  "  Notes  on  Boiling,"  p.  429). 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  591 

If  liked,  the  stock  in  which  the  mutton  has  cooked  may  be  converted 
into  onion  sauce  (see  "  Sauces  "). 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib. 

1017.— LEG  OF  MUTTON,  WITH  OYSTERS. 

(Fr. — Gigot  de  Mouton  aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — A  well-hung  boned  leg  of  mutton,  12  sauce  oysters, 
i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  2  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  i  shallot  finely-chopped,  salt  and  pepper, 
oyster  sauce  (see  No.  310  "  Sauces  "). 

Method. — Blanch  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  which  afterwards 
strain.  Chop  the  oysters  coarsely,  add  to  them  the  breadcrumbs, 
yolks  of  eggs,  parsley,  shallot,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten 
slightly  with  oyster  liquor.  Press  the  forcemeat  lightly  into  the 
cavity  from  which  the  bone  was  removed,  carefully  secure  any  opening 
there  may  be,  and  bind  with  strong  string.  Boil  gently  in  stock,  or 
water  flavoured  with  vegetables  and  herb's,  from  2£  to  3  hours,  accord- 
ing to  size,  and  serve  with  oyster  sauce. 

Time. — To  boil,  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.;  oysters, 
is.  to  is.  6d.  per  dozen.  Sufficient  for  12  or  more  persons,  according  to 
size.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

1018.— LIVER  AND  BACON. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  liver,  |  a  Ib.  of  bacon,  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  liver  into  a  basin,  cover  with  boiling  water,  lot 
it  remain  for  10  minutes,  then  drain,  dry  well,  and  cut  into  \  im  h 
slices.  Season  i  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  i  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  £  the  quantity  of  pepper,  and  dip  each  slice  of  liver  in  the  mixture. 
Heat  the  frying-pan,  cut  the  bacon  into  thin  slices,  fry  them,  remove 
to  a  hot  dish  or  tin,  and  keep  hot  until  required.  Fry  the  liver  in  the 
fat  from  the  bacon,  but  quickly,  in  order  that  it  may  be  well-browned 
0:1  both  sides  without  over-cooking.  Transfer  to  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle 
in  about  a  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  let  it  brown,  then  add  about  $ 
D{  a  pint  of  water,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  strain  over  the  liver.  Arrange 
the  bacon  neatly  on  the  top,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — To  fry  the  liver,  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  3  persons. 

'-•'. — See  recipe  for  cooking  calves'  and  ox  liver. 

1019.— LOIN  OF  MUTTON,  BONED  AND  STUFFED. 
(Fr. — Longe  de  Mouton,  farcie  Rotie.^ 

Ingredients.- -A  loin  of  mutton,  ;,  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs, 
j  tablcspoonfuls  of  chopped  suet,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  ham  or 


592  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

bacon,  i  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  2  teaspooniuls  of  chopped 
parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-rind,  i  egg,  milk,  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper,  gravy  or  sauce. 

Method. — Bone  the  meat,  trim  away  any  superfluous  fat,  and  flatten 
with  a  cutlet-bat  or  rolling-pin.  Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  well 
together,  add  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  stir  in  the  egg  and 
as  much  milk  as  is  necessary  to  moisten  the  whole.  Spread  the  force- 
meat on  the  inner  surface  of  the  meat,  roll  up  tightly,  and  secure  with 
tape.  Bake  the  meat  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  2  or  2^  hours, 
according  to  size  basting  frequently  with  hot  fat,  or,  if  preferred,  the 
meat  may  be  either  braised  or  stewed  according  to  directions  given 
under  the  respective  headings.  Serve  with  good  gravy,  brown  sauce, 
or  any  other  sauce  preferred. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  2  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  more  persons,  according  to  weight.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

1020.— LOIN  OF  MUTTON,  DAUBE  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Longe  de  Mouton  a  la  Daube.) 

Ingredients. — A  loin  of  mutton  boned,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  suet,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped 
ham  or  bacon,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  |-  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  i  egg,  milk,  nutmeg,  salt  and 
pepper,  stock,  tomato,  brown  or  other  suitable  sauce,  slices  of  bacon 
glaze. 

Method. — Place  the  bones,  removed  from  the  meat,  at  the  bottom 
of  a  stewpan,  and  cover  with  stock,  or,  failing  stock,  use  water  and  the 
usual  flavouring  vegetables  (see  recipes  for  braising  mutton).  Mix 
the  breadcrumbs,  suet,  ham,  parsley,  lemon-rind  and  a  seasoning  of 
salt  well  together,  add  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  stir  in  the  egg  and 
as  much  milk  as  will  slightly  moisten  the  whole.  Stuff  the  loin  with 
the  preparation,  secure  the  openings,  and  fold  in  several  thicknesses 
of  greased  paper.  Place  the  meat  in  the  stewpan,  cover  with  slices 
of  bacon,  put  on  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  cook  very  slowly  for  4  or  5 
hours,  according  to  size,  adding  more  stock  from  time  to  time.  Re- 
move the  paper,  brush  over  with  glaze,  let  the  meat  remain  in  a  hot 
oven  for  10  or  15  minutes,  then  serve  with  the  prepared  sauce. 

Time. — Altogether,  from  4^  to  5^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  more  persons,  according  to  weight.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 

1021.— MEAT  AND  POTATO  PIE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  cold  lean  mutton,  2  Ib.  of  potatoes,  2  onions, 
£  of  a  pint  of  gravy  (made  from  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  meat), 
salt  and  pepper. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  593 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  thin  slices,  parboil  and  slice  the 
potatoes  and  onions.  Line  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with  potato, 
cover  with  a  layer  of  meat  and  a  few  slices  of  onion,  and  season  liberally 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Repeat  until  the  materials  are  used,  the  top 
layer  consisting  of  potato.  Pour  in  the  gravy,  cover  with  a  greased 
paper,  and  bake  about  i  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  A  £  of  an  hour 
before  serving,  remove  the  paper  to  allow  the  potatoes  to  brown. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  about  iVhours.  Average  Cost,  3d.,  ex- 
clusive of  the  meat.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1022.— MUTTON,  CASSEROLE  OF,  ENGLISH  STYLE. 
(Fr. — Casserole  de  Mouton  a  TAnglaise.) 

Ingredients. — Xc-ck  or  loin  of  mutton,  good  gravy,  suet  paste,  (see 
pastes),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the.  meat  into  small  chops  or  cutlets,  remove  the  bones, 
and  trim  away  nearly  all  the  fat.  Place  the  meat  in  a  casserole  it 
will  about  £  fill,  cover  with  good  gravy,  and  season  to  taste.  Put  on 
the  lid,  and  cook  gently  for  about  i  hour,  either  on  the  stove  or  in  a 
moderately  cool  oven.  Meanwhile,  make  the  paste  as  directed,  and 
roll  it  into  a  round  or  oval  f«  >rm  of  smaller  dimensions  than  the  casserole. 
Lay  the  paste  on  the  top  of  the  meat,  replace  the  lid,  and  cook  gently 
for  i£  hours  longer.  Divide  the  paste  into  sections  before  serving. 

Time. — 2\  hours.     Average  Cost,  oxl.  to  is.  per  Ib. 

1023.— MUTTON  CHOPS,  BROILED  OR  GRILLED. 

Ingredients. — Loin  of  mutton,  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  loin  into  chops,  trim  away  any  superfluous  fat, 
curl  the  end  round,  and  fasten  securely  with  a  small  skewer.  Brush 
over  with  salad-oil  or  butter,  broil  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  turning 
3  or  4  times,  then  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  broil,  7  to  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib. 

1024.— MUTTON  COLLOPS. 

Ingredients. — 6-8  slices  of  cooked  mutton,  2  shallots  or  i  small  onion 
finely-chopped,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  \  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  mace,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  butter  or  fat  for  frying, 
pint  of  gravy  or  stock,  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  round  pieces  about  2\  inches  in  diameter. 
Mix  together  the  shallot,  herbs,  mace,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
and  SJMV,;<I  this  mixture  on  one  side  of  the  meat.  Let  it  remain  for 
i  hour,  then  fry  quickly  in  hot  butter  or  fat,  taking  care  to  cook  the 
side  covered  with  the1  mixture  first.  Remove  and  keep  hot,  sprinkle 
the  flour  on  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  which  should  contain  no  more  fat 


594  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

than  the  flour  will  absorb,  let  it  brown,  then  add  the  gravy  or  stock. 
Season  to  taste,  boil  gently  for  about  1 5  minutes,  add  a  little  lemon- 
juice  or  vinegar  to  flavour,  and  pour  the  sauce  round  the  meat. 

Time. — Altogether,  i^  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  8d.  Sufficient, 
i  Ib  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1025.— MUTTON,  CURRY  OF.      (Fr.— Kari  de  Mou- 
ton.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cooked  mutton,  £  a  pint  of  curry  sauce  (see 
No.  241),  boiled  rice. 

Method. — Remove  all  skin  and  fat  from  the  meat  and  cut  it  into 
small  thin  slices.  Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  let  the  meat  remain 
in  it  for  at  least  \  an  hour,  then  serve  with  well-boiled  rice. 

Time. — To  re-heat  the  meat,  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  all  times. 

Note. — See  "  Veal,  Curry  of,"  "  Chicken,  Curry  of,"  also  "  Indian 
Cookery." 

1026.— MUTTON  CUTLETS,  TO  PREPARE. 

The  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton  must  be  selected  for  this  purpose. 
Saw  oft"  the  chine  bone  and  the  ends  of  the  rib  bones,  leaving  the  part 
to  be  divided  into  cutlets  about  4  inches  long,  but  this  must  be  deter- 
mined by  the  size  of  the  fillet  or  lean  portion  of  the  meat.  The  end 
of  each  bone  must  be  scraped  quite  bare  to  the  depth  of  about  £  of  an 
inch.  A  more  even  surface  and  a  better  shape  may  be  obtained  by 
beating  them  slightly  with  a  wetted  cutlet-bat  or  chopping-knife. 
When  the  mutton  is  large,  i  cutlet  may  be  cut  with  a  bone  and  i  cutlet 
between  each  of  the  bones  :  when  the  cutlet  frills  are  attached  the 
appearance  of  the  boneless  cutlets  is  identical  with  the  rest.  Nearly 
all  the  fat  must  be  trimmed  off,  and  should  be  clarified  and  used 
for  frying  or  making  plain  pastry  and  cakes,  while  the  lean  parts 
may  be  boiled  down  for  gravy  or  sauce  to  be  served  with  the  cutlets, 
or  when  not  required  for  this  purpose  they  may  be  put  into  the  stock 
pot. 

SHEPHERDS  AND  THEIR  FLOCKS. — From  the  sheikh  downwards,  every  one  in  a  nomadic  state  of 
society  is  more  or  less  a  shepherd.  The  ancestors  of  the  Israelites  in  the  patriarchal  age  tended 
s'leep,  and  until  after  the  Egyptian  Captivity,  when  the  shepherd  held  a  subordinate  position,  the 
occupation  of  tending  flocks  was  undertaken  not  only  by  the  sons,  but  also  by  the  daughters  of  wealthy 
chiefs.  Among  the  earlier  Eastern  nations  sheep  constituted  an  important  part  of  their  possessions. 
The  first  mention  of  sheep  occurs  (Gen.  iv.  2)  in  connexion  with  Abel,  who  is  mentioned  as  a  "  keeper 
of  sheep."  Both  the  adult  and  the  lamb  were  used  in  sacrificial  offerings.  Many  passages  in 
the  Bible  indicate  the  magnitude  of  the  pastoral  riches  of  the  Eastern  people,  for  instance,  the 
giving  of  a  hundred  sheep  by  Jacob  to  the  children  of  Hamor  as  the  price  of  a  field,  and  the  yearly 
tribute  which  the  King  of  Israel  received  from  the  King  of  Moab,  comprising  a  hundred  thousan  i 
sheep,  and  a  similar  number  of  rams  with  their  fleeces.  The  tendency  of  sheep  to  ramble  necessitates 
the  care  of  a  shepherd,  and  it  is  no  easy  task  to  keep  a  flock  within  bounds  ;  but  the  watchful  shep- 
herd, aided  by  his  cleverly  trained  and  intelligent  dogs,  manages  to  accomplish  it  without  harassing 
the  sheep.  In  the  Hig  ilinds  of  Scotland,  where  the  herbage  is  scanty,  sheep  farms  are  of  wide  extent, 
necessitating  the  services  of  numerous  shepherds. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  595 

1027.— MUTTON  CUTLETS,   BRAISED.      (Fr.— Cote- 
lettes  de  Mouton  Braisees.) 

Ingredients. — 7  or  8  cutlets  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  larding 
bacon,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  \  a  pint  of  stock,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  i  or  2 
strips  of  celery,  £  a  small  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),  glaze,  salt  and  pepper,  \  of  a  pint  of  tomato  or  demi-glace 
sauce  (see  Sauces),  peas,  spinach,  or  other  vegetable  garnish. 

Method. — Trim  and  flatten  the  cutlets  into  a  good  shape,  and  insert 
5  or  6  fine  lardoons,  or  pieces  of  fat  bacon  used  for  larding,  in  the  lean 
part  of  each  one.  Slice  the  vegetables,  put  them  into  a  stcwpun  with  the 
butter  and  bouquet-garni,  lay  the  cutlets  on  the  top,  put  on  the  lid, 
and  cook  gently  for  20  minutes.  Have  the  stock  boiling,  pour  into 
the  stcwpan  as  much  of  it  as  will  J  cover  the  vegetables,  and  add  the 
remainder  of  the  stock  as  that  in  the  pan  reduces.  Cover  the  cutlets 
with  a  buttered  paper,  put  on  the  lid,  and  cook  gently  for  about  50 
minutes  on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven.  When  done,  brush  over  one 
side  with  meat -glaze,  and  put  them  into  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to 
crisp  the  bacon.  Arrange  them  in  a  close  circle  on  a  border  of  potato, 
serve  the  prepared  vegetables  in  the  centre,  and  pour  round  the  sauce. 

Time. — To  cook  the  cutlets,  about  \\  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  j 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

VARIOI-S  OrALims  OK  MUTTON. — Mutton  is  the  meat  most  generally  consumed  in  famil; 
in  the  estimation  of  medical  men  and  connoisseurs,  it  takes  the  first  place  for  its  dig«-stibilit\ 
ll.ivdiir.  ami  its  wholosomeness.     The  mutton  of  the  South  Down  sheep  is  the  most  highly  «•- 
and  it  is  also  the  most  expensive.     The  London  and  other  markets  atv  lan;rly  su|  ; 
cillfd  half-breeds.  \\hic  h  are  a  cross  between  the  South  Down  and  the  Lincoln  or  Leicester 
Sheep  of  this  d  r  \vripht  than  that  of  the  true  South  Downs,  and  for 

d  by  the  great  sl.eep  masters.     The  legs  of  this  mutton  ranpe  fi 
to  IT  lh.  in  wcipht  ;  the  shoulders.  nr<  k  nt  10  Ib.  to  i^  Ib.  ;  and  if  care  be  taken  not  to 

it  too  fat,  it  will  be  found  to  be  tli«-  most  s.iti-f.ii  torv  and  economical  mutton  th.it 
nht.     Welsh  mutton,  although  small  i:  xrellent  flavour,  and  larc< 

daml  and  Au>trali.m  mutton  are  now  supplied  to  the  London  market.     The  tin«-r  inialitios  are  but 
littl--  infrri.'r  to  th'>^<-  of  homr  ppxlurti"ii.       I  !;• 
bury,"  takes  the  prior  place,  and  is  sold  at  an  average  rate  of  i  Jd.  per  Ib.  more  than  the  Australian 

1028. -MUTTON  CUTLETS,   GRILLED.      (Fr.— Cote- 
lettes  de  Mouton  Grilles.) 

Ingredients. — 7  or  8  cutlets  cut  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  7  or  8 
very  small  tomatoes  stuffed  with  mushrooms  (see  \\  uvtubles),  £  of  a 
pint  of  demi-glace  sauce  (see  Sauces),  il  ozs.  of  butter,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Trim  and  flatten  the  cutlets  into  a  good  shape.     Prepare 
the  tomatoes  as  directed,  and  bake  them  until  tender  in  a  moderate 
oven.     Warm  the  butter,  dip  in  the  cutlets,  taking  care  that  thr 
arc  well  coated,  cover  lightly  with  breadcrumbs,  and  press  them  firmly 
on  with  a  knife.     Grill  them  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  turning 
them  (aivfullv  j  or  ^  times,  in  order  that  lx)th  sides  may  be  equally 
cooked  and   browned.     Arrange  neatly  on  a  border  of  potato, 
•  matiK-s  piled  in  the  centre,  and  pour  the  sauce  round. 

Time.     From  N  to  i<>  minur  <k  the  cutlets.     Average  Cost,  is. 

per  11).     Sufficient  for  5  0  <ns. 


596  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1029.— MUTTON  CUTLETS,  ITALIAN  STYLE. 

(Fr.—  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  cutlets,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  mixed  herbs, 
i  egg,  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  mushrooms,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  \  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallots,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated 
lemon-rind,  a  pinch  of  mace,  clarified  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  ^  a  pint 
of  Italian  sauce  (see  "  Sauces  "). 

Method. — Mix  the  salad-oil,  lemon- juice,  herbs,  and  a  little  salt 
and  pepper  together,  pour  the  mixture  over  the  cutlets,  and  let  them 
remain  for  i  hour,  turning  2  or  3  times.  Mix  together  the  breadcrumbs, 
mushrooms,  parsley,  shallots,  lemon-rind  and  mace,  and  season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Drain  the  cutlets,  brush  them  over  with 
egg,  and  coat  carefully  with  the  above  mixture.  Fry  in  hot  butter 
until  nicely  browned  on  both  sides,  and  serve  with  Italian  sauce. 

Time. — To  fry,  5  or  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  43.  to  45.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1030.— MUTTON  CUTLETS,  MAINTENON  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Maintenon.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  thick  mutton  cutlets,  \  a  pint  of  Espagnole 
sauce  (see  "  Sauces  "),  gravy  or  good  stock,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
chopped  fresh  mushrooms,  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped 
shallot,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Trim  the  cutlets  (see  "Mutton  Cutlets,  to  Prepare"), 
insert  a  sharp  knife,  and  split  the  meat  nearly  down  to  the  bone.  Heat 
the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  shallot  until  lightly-browned,  then 
add  the  mushroom  and  parsley.  Season  to  taste,  add  a  very  little  gravy 
or  stock  if  too  dry,  and  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Fill  the 
openings  made  in  the  cutlets  with  the  preparation,  and  press  the  edges 
firmly  together.  Grill  over  a  clear  fire,  or,  if  preferred,  fry  in  a  little 
butter  until  nicely  browned,  and  arrange  them  neatly  on  a  silver  or 
fireproof  dish.  Coat  them  lightly  with  sauce,  sprinkle  on  the  remainder 
of  the  mushroom  preparation,  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven  for  5  or  6  minutes. 
Serve  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — To  grill  or  fry,  6  or  7  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1031.— MUTTON  CUTLETS,  PORTUGUESE  STYLE. 
(Fr. — Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Portugaise.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  cutlets,  4  tomatoes  sliced,  2  shallots  or  i  onion 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    MUTTON  597 

sliced,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  cornflour,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock 
or  water,  vinegar,  castor  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  cutlets  (see  "  Mutton  Cutlets,to  Prepare,"  No.  1026). 
Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute  or  frying-pan,  fry  the  onion  brown,  add  the 
tomatoes,  cook  gently  for  £  an  hour,  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Replace  in  the  saute-pan,  add  the  cornflour  and  stock  previously  mixed 
smoothly  together,  stir  until  boiling,  and  season  to  taste.  Stir  and 
boil  gently  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  2  or  3  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar 
and  a  good  pinch  of  sugar,  cover  and  keep  hot  until  required,  drill 
the  cutlets  over  a  clear  fire,  or,  if  more  convenient,  fry  quickly  in  a  little 
hot  butter  or  fat.  Serve  arranged  in  a  close  circle  on  a  hot  dish  with 
the  sauce  poured  round. 

Time. — To  grill  or  fry  the  cutlets,  7  or  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is. 
per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1032.— MUTTON  CUTLETS,  REFORM  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Reforme.) 

Ingredients. — 7  or  8  mutton  cutlets,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs, 
i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  ham,  salt  and  pepper,  i  egg.  For 
the  garnish:  i  tablespoon ful  of  shredded  cooked  ham.  i  tablespoonful 
of  shredded  gherkin,  i  tablespoonful  of  shredded  champigni 
tablespoonful  of  shredded  white  of  egg,  i  tablespoonful  of  shredded 
tru  tile,  \  an  oz.  of  butter,  stock,  £  a  pint  of  Espagnole  or  brown  sauce 
(see  "  Sauces  ").  frying  fat. 

Method.    Mix  the  breadcrumbs  and  chopped  ham  together,  and  season 

rather  highly  with  salt  and  pepper.     Flatten  the  cutlets  slightly,  trim 

them  to  a  good  shape,  and  coat  them  first  with  beaten  egg,  and  atter- 

\vith  the  breadcrumbs,  etc.     Melt  the  butter,  add  all  the  shredded 

lients  and  a  little  pepper,  moisten  with  stock,  and  make  thoroughly 

hot.     Fry  the  cutlets  quickly  in  hot  butter  or  fat  until  nicely  browned, 

and  drain  free  from  fat.     Arrange  them  on  a  hot  dish  in  a  close  circle 

with  the  garnish  in  the  centre,  and  the  sauce  poured  round,  or,  if 

;  <  (1.  in  a  close  row  with  the  sauce  poured  round,  and  the  garnish 

:iged  lightly  on  one  side. 

Time. — To  fry,  6  or  7  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  4*.  6d.  Sufficient 
tor  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1033.— MUTTON  CUTLETS  WITH  GREEN  PEAS. 

(Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Mouton  aux  Petits  Pois.) 

Ingredients. — 7  or  8  cutlets  cut  from  the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton, 
i  pint  of  shelled  peas,  J  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 

>pcr. 

Method.  Trim  the  cutlets,  and  flatten  them  with  a  wetted  cutlet- 
bat  or  heavy  chopping-knife.  Br.it  i  Id  to  it  £  an  oz.  of  w.irm 


598  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

butter  and  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  ;  dip  the  cutlets  in 
the  preparation,  and  coat  them  carefully  with  breadcrumbs.  Boil 
the  peas,  drain  them  well,  and  just  before  serving  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  i  oz.  of  butter  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  toss 
over  the  fire  until  well  mixed  with  the  butter.  Heat  the  remaining 
i£  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan  and  fry  the  cutlets  quickly  until  lightly 
browned  on  both  sides,  then  drain  well.  Arrange  them  overlapping 
each  other  on  a  thin  potato  border,  serve  the  peas  in  the  centre,  and 
pour  the  hot  Espagnole  sauce  round. 

Time. — To  cook  the  cutlets,  from  7  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
is.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1034.— MUTTON  CUTLETS  WITH   SOUBISE   SAUCE. 
(Fr.—  Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Soubise.) 

Ingredients. — 7  or  8  cutlets  cut  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  \  a  pint 
of  Soubise  sauce,  £  of  a  pint  of  demi-glace  or  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces), 
salt  and  pepper,  salad-oil,  or  butter. 

Method. — Trim  aid  flatten  the  cutlets  into  a  good  shape,  brush  them 
over  with  oiled  butter  or  salad-oil,  and  grill  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear 
fire  for  8  or  10  minutes.  The  cutlets  should  be  turned  2  or  3  times, 
and  before  serving  sprinkle  both  sides  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Arrange  them  in  a  close  circle  on  a  border  of  mashed  potato,  serve  the 
Soubise  sauce  in  the  centre,  and  pour  the  other  sauce  round. 

Time. —  8  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

1035.-  MUTTON  CUTLETS,  VENETIAN  STYLE. 

{Fr. — Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Venetienne.) 

Ingredients. — 7  or  8  mutton  cutlets,  4  ozs.  of  quenelle  meat,  No.  413, 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  ham,  i  hard-boiled  white  of  egg, 
finely-chopped,  i  small  truffle,  finely-chopped,  2  ozs.  -of  butter  £  a 
pint  of  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces).  For  the  garnish  :  i  tablespoonful 
each  of  hard-boiled  white  of  egg,  gherkin  and  cold  boiled  ham  cut 
into  very  fine  strips  about  i£  inches  in  length,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  the  cutlets,  then  fry  them  in  2  ozs.  of  hot  butter, 
drain  and  press  lightly  until  cool.  Cover  one  side  of  each  cutlet  with 
a  layer  of  quenelle  meat,  which  in  its  turn  must  be  covered  with  a  thin 
layer  of  chopped  ham.  Sprinkle  half  the  cutlets  with  chopped  truffle, 
the  remainder  with  white  of  egg,  and  place  them  in  a  saute-pan.  Pour 
some  of  the  brown  sauce  round,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper  and  cook 
on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven  for  atout  \  an  hour.  Heat  the  garnish 
in  a  bain-marie  or  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Remove  the 
cutlets,  add  the  remainder  of  the  sauce,  and  boil  up.  Arrange  the 
cutlets  in  a  close  circle  on  a  potato  border,  serve  the  garnish  in  the 
centre,  and  pour  the  sauce  round 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  599 

Time. —  I  hour.  Average  Cost,  qs.  to  43.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1036.— MUTTON,  DEVILLED.       (Fr.— Mouton    a    la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — 8-9  slices  of  cold  roast  mutton,  oiled  butter,  bro-.vncd 
breadcrumbs,  lemon- juice,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne,  watercress. 

Method. — Season  the  meat  with  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne,  sprinkle 
vi-.h  lemon-juice,  and  put  aside  for  |  an  hour.  When  ready,  dip  it 
into  oiled  butter,  coat  lightly  with  browned  breadcrumbs,  and  bake 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes.  Arrange  in  a  close  circle 
on  a  hot  dish,  fill  the  centre  with  watercress  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  lemon-juice,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  to  is  icd. 
Sufficient  for  a  dish. 

1037.— MUTTON  DORMERS. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  underdone  mutton  finely-chopped,  4  ozs.  of 
cooked  rice  (see  "  Rice  for  Curries  "),  3  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet, 
i  shallot  or  small  onion  finely-chopped,  salt  and  ]  bread- 

crumbs, frying-fat,  gravy  made  from  the  bones  and  trimmings. 

Method. — Cook  and  dry  the  rice  as  directed,  add  to  it  the  meat, 
suet,  shallot,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  mix  the  ingredi- 
ents well  together,  and  form  them  into  cork-shaped  pieces.  Coat  with 
i  id  breadcrumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned,  and  did  in 
\\cll.  Serve  garnished  with  crisply-fried  parsley,  and  send  the  gravy 
to  table  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — To  fry,  5  or  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  5d.,  in  addition  to  the 
meat.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1038.— MUTTON,  FRITTERS  OF.     (Fr.— Beignets  de 
Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — Prying-batter  (see  "  Apple  Fritters  ").  For  the  meat 
mixture:  $  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  mutton,  i  tcaspoonful  ot 
finely -chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or 
onion,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  strong  stock, 
salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Make  the  batter  as  directed,  and  put  it  aside  until  required. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan.  fry  the  onion  lightly,  then  stir  in  first  the 
flour  and  alterwards  the  stock,  and  boil  quickly  for  3  or  4  minutes, 
stirring  meanwhile.  Add  salt,  pepper,  parsley  and  the  meat,  turn 
the  I'lvp.n.i'.  i»n  on  to  a  plate,  and  when  cool  drop  pieces  about  the 
size  of  a  walnut  into  the  batter.  Take  them  put  one  at  a  time  in  a 


600  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

spoon  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Drain  well, 
and  serve  garnished  with  crisply-fried  parsley. 

Time. — To  fry,  7  or  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.,  in  addition  to  the 
meat.  Sufficient  for  3  persons. 

Note. — If  preferred,  the  meat  may  be  cut  into  thin  slices,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  flavoured  with  onion  or  herbs,  and,  after  standing  for 
a  time,  finished  off  as  directed  above. 

1039.— MUTTON    CUTLETS    TALLEYRAND    STYLE. 
(Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Mouton  a  la  Talleyrand.) 

Ingredients. — 7  or  8  mutton  cutlets,  4  oz.  of  cooked  chicken,  £  of  a 
pint  of  demi-glace  sauce,  \  a  gill  of  white  sauce  (about),  i  oz.  of  butter, 

1  whole  egg,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  4  preserved  mushrooms  finely-chopped, 

2  shallots  finely-chopped,  frying-fat,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne,  bread- 
crumbs, vegetable  garnish. 

Method. — Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan  ;  trim  the  cutlets  neatly, 
fry  them  for  not  more  than  5  minutes,  turning  them  once,  then  press 
between  2  dishes  until  cool.  Chop  the  meat  of  the  chicken  finely, 
pound  it  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  the  2  yolks  of  eggs  and  as 
much  of  the  white  sauce  as  is  necessary  to  moisten  the  meat,  season 
to  taste,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Re-heat  the  butter  in  the  saute- 
pan,  fry  the  shallots  slightly,  add  to  them  the  mushrooms,  cook  for 
2  or  3  minutes  longer,  then  mix  with  the  meat  puree.  Mask  the  cutlets 
completely  with  the  preparation,  brush  them  lightly  over  with  beaten 
egg,  coat  carefully  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned  in 
hot  fat.  Dish  in  a  close  circle  on  a  thin  potato  border,  serve  spinach, 
peas,  asparagus  points,  or  whatever  may  be  preferred,  in  the  centre, 
and  pour  the  hot  demi-glace  sauce  round. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1040.— MUTTON  HAM,  TO  CURE. 

Ingredients. — A  leg  of  mutton,  i  Ib.  of  salt,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  moist  sugar, 
i  oz.  of  saltpetre. 

Method. — In  cool  weather  let  the  meat  hang  for  2  or  3  days.  Pound 
the  ingredients  for  curing  in  a  mortar,  dry  them  well  before  the  fire, 
then  rub  them  into  the  meat,  taking  care  that  the  parts  surrounding 
the  knuckle  bone  are  done  thoroughly.  Repeat  the  rubbing  every 
morning  for  a  fortnight,  turning  the  meat  each  day.  At  the  end  of  the 
time  dry  well,  rub  the  centre  surface  with  common  salt,  let  the  meat 
remain  under  heavy  pressure  for  3  or  4  days,  and  smoke  it  for  at  least 
10  days  before  using. 

1041.— MUTTON,  HASHED.   (Fr.— Hachis  de  Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — Col4  mutton,  pickles,  brown  sauce,  breadcrumbs,  salt 
and  pepper. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  601 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  thin  slices,  and  boil  the  bones  and  trim- 
mings for  stock  for  the  brown  sauce.  No.  .233.  Cover  the  bottom 
of  a  greased  pie-dish  with  a  layer  of  breadcrumbs,  add  2  or  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  and  on  the  top  arrange  the  slices  of  meat 
slightly  overlapping  each  other.  Sprinkle  with  chopped  gherkins 
(or  other  pickle),  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  lightly  with  the  bread- 
crumbs and  sau:e.  Repeat  the  process  until  the  materials  are  used, 
making  the  top  layer  a  rather  thick  one  of  breadcrumbs.  Cover  with 
a  greased  paper,  and  bake  very  gently  for  about  £  an  hour.  Serve 
in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  cooked. 

Time.— i  hour.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — The  re-heating  of  cooked  meat  is  more  fully  dealt  with  in  the 
chaj> tors  on  cooking  veal,  beef  and  tinned  meats.  Recipes  will  there  be  fouiul 
for  curries,  croquettes,  rt.vsoK-s,  meat  shapes,  meat  cakes,  meat  cr.  > 

HASHED  MTTTON. — Many  persons  hive  a  decided  aversion  to  hashed  mutton  :  a  dislike  probably 
(In.-  to  tin    f.K-t  that  they  have  never  been  properly  served  with  this  dish.     If,  however,  the  meat 
r,  the  gravy  well  made  and  abundant,  and  the  sippets  nicely  toasted,  the  whole  bein^ 

:i  is  not  a  despicable  di>h,  and  L»  much  more  wholesome  and  more  appetising; 
than  the  traditional  cold  shoulder,  of  which  fathers  and  husbands  and  their  bachelor  friends  stand 
in  n»t  unnatural  awe. 

1042.— MUTTON,  IN  IMITATION  OF  VENISON. 

(Fr. — Mouton  a  la  Venaison.) 

Ingredients.— A  neck,  loin,  or  leg  of  mutton,  £  of  a  pint  ot  vi; 
£  of  a  pint  of  claret  or  other  red  wine,  3  bay-leaves,  3  shul. 

ntiil  of  pepper,  I  teaspoonful  of  pounded 

Method. — Let  the  meat  hang  at  least  3  or  4  days,  then  rub  it  over 
with  mixed  pepper  and  allspice,  and  repeat  the  rubbing  at  intervals  for 
.jS  hours.  Mix  together  the  vinegar,  wine,  shallots  and  i 

the  meat  well  with  the  mixture,  and  let  it  remain  for  j 
Og  frequently.     When  r-  -h  in  warm  water,  dry  thoroughly, 

and  enclose  in  a  flour  and  water  paste.     Cook  according  to  directions 
given  lor  ith  good  gravy  and  red-cur- 

rant jelly. 

Time. — About  8  days.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
at  any  time. 

1043.— MUTTON,    LEG    OF,  STEWED.     (Fr.— Gigot 
de  Mouton  brais6.) 

Ingredients.— A  small  leg  of  mutton  boned,  stock  or  water.     When 
.  >mon-s.   i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni 
ley,    thy  r..  "-'af),     10    peppercorns.     For    the    forcemeat: 

|  of  a  Ib.  ot  mutton  trimmings,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  raw  ham  or  bacon,  i  Sj 
onion  finely-chopped,  a  clove  of  garlic  bruised,  salt  and  pepper.     For 
ozs.  of  butter,  iK  ozs.  of  flour,  i   pint  of  stock,  sli 


602  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Remove  any  superfluous  fat,  and  from  the  cavity  from 
which  the  bone  was  taken  trim  off  the  lean  meat  needed  for  the  force- 
meat. Chop  both  bacon  and  mutton  finely,  add  the  onion,  garlic,  and 
a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  moisten  with  a  little  stock  ;  and 
fill  the  cavity  with  the  mixture.  Secure  any  opening  that  would  allow 
the  forcemeat  to  escape,  and  bind  the  meat  into  a  good  shape  with 
strong  string.  Put  the  meat  into  a  stewpan  containing  hot  stock, 
or  vegetables  and  hot  water  to  half  cover  the  meat,  lay  slices  of  fat 
bacon  on  the  top  of  it,  and  put  on  a  close-fitting  lid.  Stew  very 
gently  for  4  hours,  adding  more  stock  or  water  when  necessary. 
Half  an  hour  before  serving  heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
flour  and  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  well-browned.  Remove  the  string 
from  the  meat  and  keep  hot  ;  strain  i  pint  of  the  stock  on  to  the 
browned  flour  and  butter,  stir  until  boiling,  and  season  to  taste.  The 
meat  may  either  be  glazed  or  served  with  a  little  of  the  sauce  poured 
over,  and  the  remainder  sent  to  table  in  a  tureen. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  I  leg 
for  10  or  more  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1044.— MUTTON,  MINCED.  (Fr—  Emince  deMouton.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cooked  mutton  cut  into  very  small  dice,  i  small 
onion  finely-chopped,  f-  of  a  pint  of  stock  made  from  bones  and  trim- 
mings, f-  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  walnut 
liquor,  mushroom  ketchup  or  some  sharp  sauce,  salt  and  pepper, 
cooked  macaroni  (see  "  Breast  of  Lamb,  Milanaise  Style  "). 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly 
browned,  add  the  flour  and  brown  it  also.  Stir  in  the  stock,  add  the 
walnut  liquor  and  seasoning  to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes. 
Put  in  the  meat,  draw  the  stewpan  aside,  where  the  contents  will  be 
kept  just  below  simmering  point,  and  let  it  remain  for  at  least  -i-  an 
hour.  Arrange  the  macaroni  in  the  form  of  a  border,  place  the  mince 
in  the  centre,  and  serve.  If  preferred,  mashed  potato  or  sippets  of 
toasted  bread  may  be  substituted  for  the  macaroni. 

Time. — From  \\  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  or  7d.,  exclusive  of 
the  meat.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1045.— MUTTON,  MINCE  OF,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  cooked  mutton  finely-minced,  3  tablespoonfuls 
of  white  breadcrumbs,  i  tablespoonful  of  browned  breadcrumbs,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  shallot  very  finely  minced,  i  egg, 
salt  and  pepper,  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  gravy,  a  little 
butter  or  fat. 

Method. — Coat  a  plain  mould  or  round  cake-tin  rather  thickly  with 
butter  or  fat,  and  cover  it  lightly  with  browned  breadcrumbs.  Mix  the 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   MUTTON  603 

meat,  white  breadcrumbs,  parsley  and  shallot  well  together,  season 
rather  highly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  egg,  mushroom  ketchup, 
and  sufficient  gravy  to  slightly  moisten  the  whole.  Turn  the  mixture 
into  the  prepared  tin,  bake  gently  from  i  to  i£  hours,  then  unmould 
carefully,  and  serve  with  good  gravy. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  Suffl- 
ient  for  three  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1046.— MUTTON  PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding  de   Mou- 
ton.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  lean  mutton  (see  "  Fillet,  to  Dress  "),  suet 
paste,  (see  Paste  section)  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Follow  directions  given  for  "  Beef  Steak  Pudding."  A 
little  kidney  will  be  found  a  great  improvement. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1047.— MUTTON,  RECHAUFFE  OF.    (Fr.-Rechauffe 
de  Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — Slices  of  cold  mutton,  i  onion  finely-chopped,  a  few 
of  carrot,  a  few  slices  of  turnip,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  made  from 
bones  and  trimmings,  i  \  ozs.  of  butter,  i  J  ozs.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful 
of  mushroom  ketchup  or  some  sharp  sauce,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  Simmer  the  bones,  meat  trimmings,  turnip  and  carrot 
in  just  sufficient  water  to  cover  them  for  at  least  i  hour,  then  strain 
and  season  to  taste.  Heat  the  butter,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly 
bnnvned,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  brown,  and  put 
in  J  of  a  pint  of  stock.  Stir  until  boiling,  season  to  taste,  add  the 
mushroom  ketchup,  and  boil  gently  for  10  minutes.  Place  the  slices 
of  meat  in  the  prepared  s  nice,  let  the  stewpan  stand  for  at  least  £ 
an  hour,  where  the  contents  will  remain  just  below  simmering  point, 
then  arrange  the  meat  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  and  strain  the  sauce  < 

Time.  —Altogether,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is  8d.  for  a 
dish.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

1048.— MUTTON,     ROLL     OF.       (Fr.— Roulade  de 
Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  lean  mutton,  i  Ib.  of  ham  or  bacon  finely-chopped, 
4  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,!  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
grated  lemon-rind,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely -chopped  shallot  or  onion, 
a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  i  or  2  eggs,  stock,  gravy  or 
sauce,  fat  for  basting. 


604  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Chop  the  meat  finely,  or  pass  it  2  or  3  times  through  a 
mincing  machine.  Mix  with  it  all  the  dry  ingredients  enumerated 
above,  and  season  somewhat  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add 
i  large  or  2  small  eggs,  and  enough  stock  to  gradually  moisten  the 
whole,  then  form  the  mixture  into  a  short  thick  roll.  Enclose  in 
3  or  4  folds  of  greased  paper,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  2 
hours,  and  baste  frequently  meanwhile.  Half  an  hour  before  serving 
remove  the  paper,  and  either  dredge  the  roll  lightly  with  flour,  or  coat 
it  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  Serve  with  good  gravy  or  brown  sauce. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — Underdone  cold  mutton  may  be  utilized  in  this  way,  and  the  ham 
or  bacon  may  be  either  raw  or  cooked.  When  cold  materials  are  used,  the 
roll  should  be  cooked  for  about  i  hour. 

1049.— MUTTON  SAUSAGES.  (Fr—  Saucisses  de  Mou- 
ton.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean,  raw  or  underdone  mutton,  2  ozs.  of  finely- 
chopped  ham  or  bacon,  4  ozs.  of  finely -chopped  suet,  4  ozs.  of  bread- 
crumbs, 2  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  mushrooms,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  2  eggs,  stock, 
sausage-skins. 

Method. — Chop  the  meat  finely,  mix  with  it  the  rest  of  the  dry  ingredi- 
ents, seasoning  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  in  the  eggs  and  as 
much  stock  as  is  necessary  to  slightly  moisten  the  whole.  Press  the 
mixture  lightly  into  skins,  or,  if  more  convenient,  form  it  into  cork- 
shaped  pieces  or  small  cakes.  Fry  in  hot  butter  or  fat. 

Time. — To  fry,  8  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d,  to  is.  lod. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1050.— MUTTON,  SCRAG  OF,  TO  COOK. 

Ingredients. — The  scrag  end  of  a  neck,  slices  of  bacon,  stock  or 
water,  2  onions  sliced,  2  carrots  sliced,  £  a  turnip  sliced,  a  bouquet- 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  10  peppercorns,  salt,  i  egg,  bread- 
crumbs, frying-fat. 

Method. — Wash  the  extreme  end  of  the  neck  in  salt  and  warm  water, 
saw  the  rib  bones  across,  and  remove  the  short  ends.  Place  the  vege- 
tables in  a  stewpan  just  large  enough  to  hold  the  meat,  lay  the  meat 
on  the  top,  cover  with  slices  of  bacon,  and  add  the  herbs,  peppercorns 
and  either  stock  or  water  to  nearly  cover  the  vegetables.  Put  on  a  close- 
fitting  lid,  cook  very  gently  for  2|  hours,  then  coat  with  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  nicely  browned.  Serve  with 
brown  sauce,  or  any  sauce  of  which  the  stock  used  in  cooking  the  meat 
may  form  the  base. 

Time. — About  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  6£d.  per  Ib. 


RECIPES  FOR  COOKIM;  MUTTON          605 

1051.— MUTTON  WITH  VINAIGRETTE  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Mouton  a  la  Vinaigrette.) 

Ingredients. — 8-9  slices  of  cooked  mutton,  sliced  gherkin,  capers,  salad. 
For  the  sauce:  4  lablcspoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar 
(preferably  tarragon),  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  gherkin,  £  a 
teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
shallot  or  onion,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  sauce  ingredients  together,  adding  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Arrange  the  meat  neatly  on  the  dish  to  be  sent  to  table,  pour 
the  sauce  over,  and  put  aside  for  at  least  i  hour.  Garnish  with  sliced 
gherkin,  capers,  and  small  tufts  of  salad,  and  serve  the  rest  of  the 
salad  separately. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  oxi.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
6  persons. 

1052.— NECK  OF  MUTTON,  BRAISED,  WITH  BROWN 
CAPER  SAUCE.  (Fr.— Carre  de  Mouton 
Brais6  aux  Capres.) 

Ingredients. — The  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  capers,  i  tablespoonful  of  caper 
vinegar,  ij  pints  of  stock  or  water,  2  onions,  2  carrots,  i  small  turnip, 

2  stalks  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  pepper- 
corns, 2  cloves,  meat  glaze,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  meat,  saw  the  rib  bones  across,  remove  the  short 
bones,  and  fold  the  flap  under.  Slice  the  vegetables,  put  them  into 
a  stewpan  with  i  oz.  of  butter,  the  herbs,  peppercorns,  and  cloves, 
lay  the  meat  on  the  top,  put  on  the  lid  of  the  stewpan,  and  cook  gently 
for  |  an  hour.  The  vegetables  must  be  occasionally  stirred  or  shaken, 
and  when  sufficiently  fried,  add  stock  to  £  cover  them,  and  the 
remainder  as  that  in  the  pan  reduces.  Cover  the  meat  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  cook  gently  for  about  2  hours.  Fry  the  flour  and  remain- 
ing J  ozs.  of  butter  together  until  a  brown  roux  is  formed.  When 
the  meat  is  ready,  transfer  it  to  a  hot  dish,  brush  it  over  with  the 
stock  reduced  to  glaze,  and  keep  it  hot.  Strain  the  liquor  on  to  the 
brown  roux,  stir  until  boiling,  season  to  taste,  simmer  for  five  minutes, 
then  add  the  capers,  and  serve  in  a  sauce-boat.  If  preferred,  glaz- 
ing the  meat  may  be  omitted,  and  a  little  sauce  poured  over  instead. 

Time. — To  cook,  about   2   hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib.     Allow 

3  Ibs.  for  6  or  7  persons. 

1053.— NECK  OF  MUTTON,  BROWNED.  (Fr.— Carre 
de  Mouton  roti  au  four.) 

Ingredients.      !  of  a  neck  of  mutton,  stock,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 


606  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  pepper  and  salt, 
frying-fat. 

Method. — Saw  the  rib  bones  across,  remove  the  short  ends,  fold  the 
flap  under,  and  bind  securely.  Place  the  meat  in  a  stewpan  containing 
as  much  boiling  stock  (or  boiling  water  and  usual  flavouring  vegetables) 
as  will  barely  cover  it,  simmer  gently  for  i  hour,  then  drain  well.  Beat 
the  egg,  add  the  parsley,  herbs,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper, 
and  coat  the  meat  thickly  with  the  mixture.  Cover  lightly  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  well-browned,  mean- 
while basting  frequently  with  hot  fat.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  well-browned,  and  add  i  pint 
of  boiling  stock  from  the  larger  stewpan.  Stir  until  boiling,  season 
to  taste,  simmer  gently  until  required,  and  serve  separately. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  in  addition  to  the  meat, 
which  will  cost  from  lod.  to  is.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  4  psrsons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

WOOLLEN  MANUFACTURES. — The  woollen  industry  was  the  earliest,  and,  at  one  period,  the  most 
important  of  English  manufactures,  until  the  great  development  of  cotton  manufactures  at  the  early 
part  of  the  nineteenth  century.  During  the  Middle  Ages  English  wool  was  esteemed  the  best  in 
Europe.  Flemish  weavers  came  to  England  at  the  time  of  the  Norman  Conquest,  and  later  on,  in 
the  reign  of  Edward  III,  the  settlement  of  a  number  of  Flemish  clothworkers  gave  the  first  effective 
impulse  to  the  woollen  industry.  Many  legislative  enactments  were  passed  from  time  to  time  for 
the  encouragement  and  protection  of  this  important  manufacture,  and  it  was  not  until  1824  that  a 
law  prohibiting  the  export  of  wool  was  repealed.  The  distinction  between  wool  and  hair  is  rather 
arbitrary  than  natural,  wool  being  in  reality  a  modified  form  of  hair,  and  similar  to  it  in  its  chemical 
composition.  It  is  characterized  by  a  greater  fineness  in  its  fibre,  by  Its  softness  and  pliability,  and 
also  by  being  more  scaly  than  common  hair,  which  gives  it  its  special  felting  property.  The  sheep, 
the  llama,  the  Angora  goat,  and  the  goat  of  Tibet,  are  animals  from  which  most  of  the  wool  used  in 
manufactures  is  obtained,  the  last  named  furnishing  the  fine  wool  from  which  Cashmire  shawls  are 
made.  Of  European  wools,  the  finest  is  yielded  by  the  Merino  sheep,  the  Spanish  and  Saxon  breeds 
taking  the  preference.  The  Merino  sheep,  now  naturalized  in  Australia,  from  whence  large  quantities 
of  wool  are  exported,  supplies  an  excellent  fleece  ;  but  all  varieties  of  sheep-wool,  reared  whether  in 
Europe  or  Australia,  are  less  soft  to  the  touch  than  that  grown  in  India,  or  than  the  wool  of  the 
llama  of  the  Andes.  The  best  of  our  British  wools  are  inferior  in  fineness  of  texture  to  any  of 
the  above-mentioned  varieties,  but  for  the  ordinary  purposes  of  the  manufacturer  they  are  unri- 
valled. 

1054.— NECK  OF  MUTTON,  TO  ROAST.    (Fr.— Carre 
de  Mouton  Roti.) 

Ingredients. — Best  end  of  the  neck  of  mutton,  fat  for  basting,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Saw  the  rib  bones  across,  remove  the  short  ends,  fold  the 
flap  under,  and  fasten  securely.  Roast  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  or,  if 
more  convenient,  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  in  either  case  basting 
frequently  with  hot  fat  (see  "  Roast  Mutton  "  and  "  Notes  on  Roast- 
ing," p.  428).  Serve  with  good  gravy  and,  if  liked,  onion  sauce. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1055.— OXFORD  JOHN. 

Ingredients. — Thin  slices  off  a  well-hung  leg  of  mutton,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  607 

£  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  4-  a  pint  of  good  gravy  or  stock,  i  tablespoonful  of 
finely-chopped  ham  or  bacon,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  rounds  about  3  inches  in  diameter, 
and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  the  ham,  parsley,  shallot, 
herbs,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper  together,  spread  the  mixture  on  one 
side  of  the  meat,  and  pile  the  pieces  one  above  the  other.  Let  them 
remain  for  at  least  i  hour,  then  separate  them  and  fry  quickly  in  hot 
butter.  Remove  and  keep  them  hot,  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  which 
the  butter  should  completely  moisten,  otherwise  more  must  be  added, 
brown  well,  and  add  the  stock.  Stir  until  boiling,  season  to  taste, 
add  the  lemon- juice,  and  replace  the  meat.  Let  the  stewpan  stand 
for  10  or  15  minutes,  where  the  contents  will  be  kept  just  below 
simmering  point,  then  sc 

Time. — Altogether,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  per  Ib. 
Allow  i  Ib.  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1056.— RAGOUT  OF  COLD  MUTTON. 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  a  saddle,  loin  or  neck  of  mutton,  i  onion 
shredded,  i  carrot  cut  into  dice,  £  a  turnip  cut  into  dice,  2  ozs.  of 
butter  or  fat,  i  oz.  of  flour,  $  of  a  pint  of  gravy,  stock  or  water,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  meat  into  cutlets,  and  trim  away  some  of  the 
fat.  Heat  the  butter  or  fat  in  a  stewpan.  fry  the  meat  quickly  on  both 
sides,  then  take  it  out,  and  put  in  the  onion.  Fry  until  lightly  browned, 
sprinkle  in  the  flour,  and  when  well-browned  add  the  stock  or  water. 
Boil  up,  season  to  taste,  add  the  trimmings  of  carrot  and  turnip,  and 
replace  the  meat.  Cover  closely,  cook  very  gently  for  i  hour,  then 
arrange  the  cutlets  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and 
garnished  with  the  vegetable  dice,  which  must  have  been  meanwhile 
boiled  in  salted  water. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  in  addition  to  the  meat 
and  gravy.  Allow  i  Ib.  to  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1057.— ROAST  HAUNCH  OF  MUTTON. 

(Fr. — Hanche  de  Mouton  Rotie.) 

Ingredients. — A  haunch  of  mutton. 

Method. — This  joint  requires  great  care  in  roasting,  for  if  cooked  too 
quickly  the  loin  is  overdone  while  the  thick  part  of  the  leg  remains 
insufficiently  cooked.  This  may  be  remedied  to  some  extent  1 

the  loin  in  several  thicknesses  of  well-greased  paper,  also  by 
the  thick  part  of  the  leg  where  it  will  receive  the  hottest  rays 
ct  IK  at  from  the  fire.  Follow  directions  given  for  "  Roast  Mutton," 
also  see  "  Notes  on  Roasting,"  p.  428. 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time. — About  15  minutes  per  Ib.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  12  or  more  persons  according  to  size  of  joint.  Seasonable 
from  June  to  January. 

1058.— ROAST  MUTTON.     (Fr.— Mouton  roti.) 

When  possible,  mutton  should  be  roasted  before  the  fire,  for  this 
method  of  cooking  imparts  a  more  delicate  and  better  flavour  to  the 
meat.  Whatever  the  joint,  it  should  be  well  basted  with  hot  fat 
before  setting  the  roasting-jack  in  motion  ;  and  for  10  or  15  minutes 
it  must  be  placed  quite  close  to  a  clear,  bright  fire,  in  order  to  quickly 
form  a  hard  surface  layer,  (see  "Notes  on  Roasting,"  p.  428).  The 
meat  revolves  too  quickly  for  it  to  become  over-browned  in  a  short 
space  of  time.  During  the  first  few  minutes  the  joint  should  be  almost 
constantly  basted,  and  afterwards  at  short  intervals.  The  time  re- 
quired for  roasting  depends  principally  upon  the  condition  of  the  fire 
and  the  form  or  the  size  of  the  joint  (see  pp.  428). 

How  TO  BUY  MEAT  ECONOMICALLY. — If  the  housekeeper  is  not  very  particular  as  to  the  precise 
joints  she  wishes  to  cook  for  dinner,  there  is  frequently  an  opportunity  for  her  to  save  money  in  her 
purchases.  For  instance,  the  butcher  may  have  an  over  supply  of  certain  joints,  and  will,  to  get  rid 
of  these,  make  a  reduction,  sometimes  to  the  extent  of  id.  or  i£d.  per  Ib.  It  often  happens  that  in 
consequence  of  a  demand  for  legs  and  loins  of  mutton  butchers  have  only  shoulders  left,  and  these 
they  are  glad  to  dispose  of  at  a  reduction,  especially  in  very  cold  weather. 

1059.— SADDLE  OF  MUTTON,  TO  ROAST. 

(Fr.— Selle  de  Mouton  Rotie.) 

Ingredients. — Saddle  of  mutton,  salt  and  pepper,  fat  for  basting, 
gravy,  red-currant  jelly. 

Method. — Remove  the  skin,  pare  off  any  superfluous  fat,  and  take 
away  the  fat  and  kidneys  from  the  inside.  Fold  the  flaps  under, 
bind  securely  in  shape,  and  cover  the  back  with  several  folds  of  greased 
paper.  Roast  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  basting  frequently,  or,  if  more 
convenient,  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  (see  "  Roast  Mutton  "  and 
"  Notes  on  Roasting,"  p.  428).  Serve  with  good  gravy  and  red-currant 
jelly. 

Time. — About  15  minutes  per  Ib.  Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  from  12  to  18  persons,  according  to  weight.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

1060.— SCOTCH  HAGGIS. 

Ingredients. — A  sheep's  paunch  and  pluck,  i  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  beef 
suet,  £  a  pint  of  oatmeal,  2  finely-chopped  Spanish  onions,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt,  i  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  \  a  nutmeg  finely-grated, 
i£  pints  of  good  stock  or  gravy,  the  juice  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Soak  the  paunch  for  several  hours  in  salt  and  water,  then 
turn  it  inside  out,  and  wash  it  thoroughly  in  several  waters.  Wash 
the  pluck,  cover  the  liver  with  cold  water,  boil  it  for  i£  hours,  and 


JOINTS 


—Roast  Loin  of  Pork. 
4.— Round  of  Beef. 
8. -Sit loin  of  Beef. 


a.— Roast  Haunch  of  Mutton.        3.— Roast  Aitchbone  of  Beef. 
5.— Le«  of  Mutton.  6.— Calfs  Head.  7  -Ham. 

9.— Shoulder  of  Mutton.         10.— Saddle  of  Mutton. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  609 

at  the  end  of  £  of  an  hour  add  to  it  the  heart  and    lights.      Chop  half 
the  liver,  chop  the  remainder  and  the  heart  and  lights  finely,  mix  all 
•cr,  add  the  oatmeal,  onions,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lemon-juice 
and  stock.     Turn  these  ingredients  into  the  paunch,  sew  up  the  opening, 
taking  care  that  sufficient  space  is  left  for  the  oatmeal  to  swell:  if  the 
paunch  be  over-full,  there  is  a  possibility  of  its  bursting.     Put  the  1 
into  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  for  about  3  hours  ;  durir. 
first  hour  it  should  be  occasionally  pricked  with  a  needle,  to  all* 
air  to  escape.     As  a  rule,  neither  sauce  nor  :  rvcd  with  a  haggis, 

a  small  dish  is  required,  a  lamb's  paunch  and  pluck  may  bo 
:  tuted  for  those  of  the  sheep's. 

Time.— To  boil  the  haggis,  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  ss.  9d.  to  33.  9d. 
Sufficient  for  8  or  9  persons. 


1061.  -SHEEP'S  BRAINS  WITH  PARSLEY  SAUCE. 
(Fr.—  Cervelles   de    Mouton    a  la  Maitre 
d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients,  —  6  she  pint  of  white  stock,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 

ij  ozs.  of  flour,  i  tcaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  t< 

ion-juice,  *  a  small  onion,  i  small  carrot,  i  bay-leaf,  sal 
••er. 
Method.  —  Soak  the  brains  in  salt  an<!  hours,  tl. 

.  cover  them  with  \»  for  3 

minutes.     Ki  place  the  brains  in  fresh  o  r,  let   th« 

until  cold,  then  put  them  into  the-  : 

sliced,  bav  :  and  pepper  to  taste,  an  lor  20 

minir  nan,  add  the 

•ok  these  for  3  or  4  minutes  without  brownitu:.     IV.iir. 

«>  the  flour  and  bur  \  tiling,  *; 

.  add  tht  .md  seasoning  to  taste.     K 

mcc,  and  just  before  serving  add  the  lemon-ji. 

Tim  .  •    }  an  1.'  '•..;.     Average 

Cost,  is.  od.  t.>  js.      Sumclenl  for  5  or  6  pers- 

"*  Hogf  .  more  commonly  known  as  the  "  Ettricfc  SbepnenL" 

s*epberd'»  »W.     Under  the  garb.  asp^t.  and  heart*  of  m  oncuJtuml  paMMt-far  Us  «Mf7 
cducaUon  was  of  lh«  amt 
who  became  interwt- 

ucni  him  to  pabfeh  a  vofaiDe  of  ballad*,  vndar  the  tote  of  the  MOM**  H~4     The 


ippearad  in  1815,  and  ertabtohed  tiojg'» 

KA^Ov*H»«,&ev5MMW.««e, 

CBte  Ima^inatinn.  and  swt-  i  the  •bepbcrd  at  Protoeor  Wil**?*  "  \crtn 

- 


q  t»nw6  :  •  .  IBM  port  H   IJ    ...  M  ,,  «-,  :  .  .,   |]  ltd  kl    m  M  •  -•  i 
r«  of  hnmoor.    Sir 

.-       •         •    •     •    -    t        ,         •       r       .-   l-tl  ,.-..,...          •     •  :  v-        '    •     .....    • 

Uon»  of  the  »hejpbeni-pnct  u  an  aero.  .coov  in  aheep>tendin«.  called  Tkt  Siup- 

4    ,  .•-,,.,     ;      .....,.,.,.       ...      ,,,,,,;.  ...    . 


610  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1062.— SHEEP'S  BRAINS  WITH  MATELOTE  SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Cervelles  de  Mouton  en  Matelote.) 

Ingredients. — 6  sheep's  brains,  vinegar,  salt,  a  few  slices  of  bacon, 
i  small  onion,  2  cloves,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley,  sufficient  stock  or 
weak  broth  to  cover  the  brains,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  mate- 
lote sauce  (see  Sauces). 

Method. — Detach  the  brains  from  the  heads  without  breaking  them, 
remove  the  skin,  cover  with  warm  water,  and  let  them  remain  for  2 
hours.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  add  a  little  vinegar 
and  salt,  and  put  in  the  brains.  When  they  are  quite  firm  take  them 
out,  and  put  them  into  very  cold  water.  Place  2  or  3  slices  of  bacon 
in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  brains,  the  onion  stuck  with  2  cloves,  the 
parsley,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt.  Cover  with  stock 
or  weak  broth,  and  boil  them  gently  for  about  25  minutes.  Have 
ready  some  fried  bread  croutons,  arrange  them  in  a  dish  alternately 
with  the  brains,  and  cover  with  a  matelote  sauce,  to  which  the  lemon- 
juice  has  been  added. 

Time. — 25  minutes  after  the  brains  are  blanched.  Average  Cost, 
2S.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

I063.  —SHEEP'S  HEAD,  TO  DRESS.      (Fr.— Tete  de 
Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — A  sheep's  head,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  pearl  barley  or  rice, 
2  onions,  2  small  carrots,  i  small  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  10  peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper.  For  the  sauce: 
|  pint  of  liquor  the  head  was  cooked  in,  if  ozs.  of  butter,  if  ozs.  of 
flour. 

Method. — Cut  the  head  in  half,  remove  the  brains,  wash  them  and 
put  them  into  cold  water,  with  a  little  salt.  Wash  the  head  in  several 
waters,  carefully  remove  any  splintered  bones,  and  let  it  soak  in  salt 
and  water  for  i  honr.  Cover  with  cold  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  pour 
away  the  water,  replace  with  fresh  cold  water,  add  the  bouquet-garni, 
peppercorns  and  salt,  boil  up,  and  skim  well.  The  head  must  be 
cooked  slowly  for  about  3  hours  ;  if  hours  before  serving  add  the 
vegetables  sliced,  with  the  rice  or  barley,  and  when  the  latter  is  used 
it  must  be  previously  blanched.  Remove  the  skin  and  fibres  from  the 
brains,  tie  them  in  muslin,  boil  them  for  10  or  15  minutes  in  the  liquor, 
then  chop  them  coarsely.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour, 
stir  over  the  fire  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  f  of  a  pint  of  liquor  from 
the  pot,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  add  the  brains,  season  to  taste,  and 
keep  hot  until  required.  When  ready,  bone  the  head,  put  the  meat 
in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  with  slices 
of  tongue  and  the  vegetables.  Serve  the  broth  separately. 


KKHPFS    FOR    COOKING    MITT*  >N  6n 

Time. — To  cook,  about  3  hours.     Avenge  Cost,   is.   3d.   to   is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

.ED  SHEEP'S  HEAD.— The  village  of 

irltl.r  itnl  f»r   tl.l^  an.  I    I  t    i:,  !  i,    .   .•  • ;    V      II 

orbaked.     The  *eq>  putttred  oo  the  neighbouring  htfe  wweriMffctareiat  the  rtUc*.  *•  cwcttM 
were  sent  to  town,  but  tb«  beads  were  reserved  for  mtmimptinn  by  the  visitor*  to  1 


1064.  -SHEEP'S  HEART.     (Fr.—  Coeur  de  Mouton.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  sheep's  heart,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeat),  dripping 
for  b.isting. 

Method.—  Soak  trt  for  i   hour  in  warm  water.     Cut  off  the 

t  cars,  any  cartilage  or  gristle  there  may  be,  and  the  muscular  wall 

divi  .  it,  and  boil  them  down  for  gravy.     Dry 

;t  thoroughly,  till  the  r  it  lorconn-.it,  .uul  tic  a  greased 

base  to  keep  in  the  !«•  or  3  ozs.  of 

in  a  baking-tin,  baste  the  hear:  \  a  modei 

;   about   \\  hours.     Gentle  cool.  frequent  basting  are 

ssary  to  prevent  the  heart  becoming  dry  and  ha;  »ne, 

••  the  sediment,  pour  in  the  prepared  gr. 

up,  season  to  taste,  ai  n  or  serve  scpar- 

:>•.     The  excellence  of  this  dish  depends  mainly  •  <  served 

as  hot  as  possible. 

Time.      I  iU)ut    i   hour.     Average  Cost,  Qd.  to  is.     Sufficient 

persons. 

•  ts  may  also  be  stuffed  with  onion  farce  (ste  "  Bullock's 

•  n\  rtii.-Mt.  tiu-y  may  be  cooke«l  m 
l'ii:  ite  fire,  care  being  taken  to  baste  • 

with  dripping   -ill   tin-   tuur. 

1065.  SHEEP'S  TAILS.      (Fr.—  Queues  de  Mouton.) 

be  dress.  vteil  in  the  i 

Sheep's  Ton^ 

»od  stock  until  tender,  and  served 
•rt.iM"  garnish  and  \  .uce. 


1066.     SHEEP'S  TONGUES,   BRAISED.      (Fr.—  Lan- 
gues  de  Mouton  Braisees. 

Ingredients  p's  tongues,  j  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces), 

i     i  or.  of  butter,  i  or  2  slices 
turnip,  i  or  2  strips  ol  • 
•  ,  6  peppercorns,  J  a  pint  of  stock. 
Method.     Soik   the   t««: 

i  into  .1  M 


613         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

on  the  top,  put  on  the  lid,  and  cook  gently  for  20  minutes.  Then  add 
hot  stock  to  nearly  cover  the  vegetables,  lay  the  bacon  on  the  top  of 
the  tongues,  cover  with  a  greased  paper /put  on  the  lid,  and  cook  gently 
for  2^  hours,  or  until  the  tongues  are  tender.  When  ready,  skin 
them,  slit  them  in  halves  lengthwise,  brush  over  with  warm  glaze, 
place  them  on  a  buttered  paper  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  put  them  into 
a  moderate  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  re-heat.  Dish  in  2  rows  on  a  bed 
of  mashed  potato,  or  a  puree  of  spinach,  pour  a  little  hot  sauce  round, 
and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  to  2s.  2d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

1067.—  SHEEP'S  TONGUES,   FRIED.     (Fr.—  Langues 
de  Mouton  f rites.) 

Ingredients. — 4  sheep's  tongues,  ^  of  a  pint  of  tomato  or  piquante 
sauce,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  breadcrumbs,  mirepoix  of  vegetables,  as  in 
preceding  recipe. 

Method. — Braise  the  tongues  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Warm  the  butter,  dip  each  half  tongue  in  it,  and  coat  these  with  bread- 
crumbs, pressing  them  firmly  on  with  a  knife.  Turn  the  butter  into 
a  saute-pan,  and  fry  the  tongues  until  the  entire  surface  is  lightly 
browned.  Dish  on  a  bed  of  spinach  or  green-pea  puree,  and  serve  the 
sauce  round  the  base  of  the  dish. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  each.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1068.— SHEEP'S  TROTTERS,  STEWED.     (Fr.— Pieds 
de  Mouton  en  Ragout.) 

Ingredients. — 2  gangs  (8)  of  dressed  trotters,  i  small  onion,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  trotters,  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  cover  them 
with  milk  and  water  in  equal  proportions,  add  the  onion  sliced,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  cover,  and  cook  gently  for  about  3  hours,  or 
until  the  bones  may  be  easily  removed.  Take  away  the  bones,  strain 
the  liquor  if  necessary,  add  milk  to  increase  the  quantity  to  £  of  a  pint, 
return  it  to  the  stewpan,  and  re-heat.  Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with 
a  little  milk,  pour  it  into  the  stewpan,  stir  until  boiling,  simmer  for 
10  minutes,  and  season  to  taste.  Replace  the  trotters,  and  when 
thoroughly  hot,  serve. 

Time. — From  3  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  persons. 

Note. — Sheep's  trotters  may  also  be  boiled  in  stock  or  water  until  the  bones 
are  easily  removed,  and  afterwards  marinaded  and  fried  in  batter.  Or  they 
may  be  stuffed  with  sausage  meat  or  veal  forcemeat,  and  either  coated  with 
egg  and  breadcrumbs,  or  dipped  into  batter  and  fried  in  hot  fat.  (See  recipes 
for  cooking  calf's  feet  and  cow-heel.) 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    MUTTON  613 

io69.-SHEPHERD'S  PIE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  cold  mutton,  i  Ib.  of  mashed  potato,  i  oz. 
of  butter  or  dripping,  £  a  pint  of  gravy  or  stock,  i  teaspoonful  of  par- 
boiled and  finely-chopped  onion,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  thin  slices.  Melt  half  the  butter 
or  fat  in  a  stewpan,  add  to  it  the  potato,  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Grease  a  pie-dish,  line  the 
bottom  thinly  with  potato,  put  in  the  meat,  sprinkle  each  layer  with 
onion,  salt  and  pepper,  pour  in  the  gravy,  and  cover  with  potato. 
The  potato  covering  may  be  given  a  rough  appearance  by  scoring  it  in 
every  direction  with  a  fork,  or  it  may  be  made  to  resemble  an  ordinary 
crust  by  being  smoothed  over  with  a  knife,  notched  at  the  edges,  and 
brushed  over  with  the  yolk  of  egg  before  baking.  When  egg  is  not 
used  for  this  purpose,  the  remainder  of  the  butter  or  fat  must  be  put 
on  the  top  of  the  pie  in  small  pieces.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
the  surface  is  \vell-brownod. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1070.— SPICED  MUTTON.     (Fr.— Mouton    Epice.) 

Ingredients. — A  boned  leg  or  shoulder  of  mutton,  8  ozs.  of  common 
salt,  i  oz.  of  bay-salt,  J  of  an  oz.  of  saltpetre,  4  ozs.  of  moist  sugar, 
I  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or 
onion,  i  saltspoonful  of  powdered  allspice,  i  saltspoonful  of  powdered 
cloves. 

Method. — Mix  the  ingredients  together,  rub  the  preparation  well  into 
the  meat,  and  repeat  daily  for  a  fortnight.  When  ready,  rinse  in  warm 
water,  and  bind  into  a  good  shape  with  strong  tape.  Cook  very  gently 
for  5  or  6  hours  in  good  stock,  or  water  flavoured  with  vegetables,  press 
between  2  dishes  until  cold,  glaze,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — To  pickle,  14  days.  To  cook,  5  to  6  hours.  Average  Cost, 
iod.  to  is.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1071.— SQUAB  PIE. 

Ingredients. — j  Ib.  of  neck  of  mutton,  2  Ib.  of  apples  sliced,  i  Ib.  of 
onions  sliced,  i  tabk'spn.  ,niul  of  mushroom  ketchup,  sugar,  salt  and 
pepper,  suet  paste  (see  Pastes). 

Method. — Divide  the  neck  into  cutlets,  place  them  in  a  piedish,  and 

•eaeon  rather  well  with  salt  and  pepper.       Add  the  apples  and  onions 

in  layers,  sprinkle  with  sn.ua r,  and  half  fill  the  dish  with  boiling  water. 

Bake  in  the  oven  for  about  i£  hours.    Before  serving,  pour  the  gravy 

out  at   the   side,   skim  off   all   the  fat,  add  the    mushroom    ketchup, 

te,    and    return  to  the   pie.    Serve   hot.       Bake  in  the 

•i  for  about  i£  hours. 

Time. — Two  hours.     Average   Cost,   js.  3d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  per- 
.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 


614  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1072.— TIMBALES  OF  MUTTON,  MERIDIONAL 

STYLE.     (Fr.— Timbales  a  la  Meridionale.) 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  Ib.  of  lean  tender  mutton,  8  or  9  Spanish  olives, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  Espagnole  Sauce,  No.  244,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream, 
i  tablespoonful  of  sherry  or  Madeira,  %  an  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  2  or  3 
tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  No.  281,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 
|  of  a  pint  of  demi-glace  sauce,  No.  242. 

Method. — Pass  the  meat  2  or  3  times  through  a  mincing  machine, 
pound  it  in  a  mortar  until  quite  smooth,  then  add  the  eggs  one  at  a 
time,  and  the  butter,  Espagnole  sauce,  cream  and  wine.  Season 
to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  pound  until 
smooth,  and  pass  through  a  wire  sieve.  Butter  8  or  9  small  dariol 
moulds,  fill  them  with  this  preparation,  leaving  a  small  hollow  in  the 
centre  of  each,  in  which  place  a  teaspoonful  of  tomato  sauce  and  an  olive 
filled  with  a  little  of  the  meat  farce.  Cover  with  farce,  place  the 
moulds  in  a  saute-pan  containing  boiling  water  to  half  their  depth, 
bring  to  the  boil  on  the  stove,  then  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  finish 
cooking  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Serve  with  the  demi-glace  sauce 
poured  over  them. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.  to  35. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1073.— TONGUES  IN  PAPER  CASES.    (Fr.— Langues 
de  Mouton  en  Papillotes.) 

Ingredients. — Sheep's  tongues,  stock.  To  2  or  3  tongues  allow  \  a 
pint  of  brown  sauce,  No.  233,  \  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  mushroom,  i  shallot  finely-chopped. 

Method. — Soak  the  tongues  in  salted  water  for  2  or  3  hours,  and 
afterwards  simmer  them  in  stock  for  about  2  hours,  or  until  tender. 
Skin  them,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  trim  away  all  the  root  of  the  tongue. 
Heat  the  butter,  fry  the  shallot  lightly,  add  the  mushroom,  toss  over 
the  fire  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  put  in  the  sauce  and  bring  to  the  boil. 
Have  ready  some  well-oiled  sheets  of  foolscap  paper,  lay  half  a  tongue 
in  each,  adding  a  little  of  the  prepared  sauce.  Fold  neatly,  place  the 
cases  on  a  baking-sheet,  cover  with  3  or  4  folds  of  greased  paper,  bake 
gently  for  1 5  minutes,  then  serve  in  the  cases. 

Time. — To  simmer,  about  2  hours.  To  bake,  15  minutes.  Average 
Cost,  4d.  each.  Allow  one  case  for  each  person. 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS 
ON   THE   COMMON    HOG. 


niAlTKR    XX 

General  Observations  on  the  Various  Breeds  of  Home 
and  Foreign  Pigs,  Manner  of  Cutting  Up,  Table  of 
Prices,  etc. 

The    hog  belongs  to    the  class  Mammalia,   the  order   I'n.milata.  the 
UCIHIS  Sus  Sen  and   the  specie*   I  'achydei  mata,  or  thick- 

skinned.      Its  generic  i  li.ii.-ctcrs  are  a  small  head  with  a  flexible  snout. 
When     fully     matuied.     say  .it     twenty  months   old,    it    has   44    teeth. 

:  molars,  4  canine  teeth.  4  tu^ks.  .5  <  01  mis  and  8  incisors.      The 

Jew  animals  which  possess  teeth  at  birth, 
number  four  above  and  four  in  the  1  .  and  are  so  sharp 

te  of   parturition  CXCeedi  the  normal  period,  that  it  is  frequently 
necessary  to  b:  i  ott  in  • 

the   udder  of  its  mother  or  th. 
bour.      By  tlie  time  the  pi'jlur:  has  arrived  at  the  age  of  four  or  five 

.    twelve  of   the    tt  mp«>i,i!\    molars  will   have  appeared,  and   the 
eight  temporary  incisors  be  developed.     The  ;  in  the 

dentition  of  pigs  take  place  at  periods  of  about  three  months  so  tli.it 
all  the  temporary  teeth  will  be  present  by  the  time  th 
old.    and    all    the    permanent    teeth    in    evidence  at  eighteen   months, 
although  these  \\ill  not  be  fully  .mown  until  the  pi.^  has  reached  the 
age  of  about  twenty   months,      i  >ur  v   sur-eo:  th.it 

-nations  in  th-  .an  in  any  of  our  <: 

i   animals,  but  this  opinion  j;ly  contested  ibitors 

:n  the  number  and  position  of  the  teeth  physiologists  arc  enabled 
nature  and   functions  of  the  animal  ;    and  from  those 

of  the  ho- it  is  evident  :  as  much  of  a  i  a  biter,  or  can 

table  as  on  animal  food,  though  a  mixture  of  both 

:nly   indicated   as  :    of  food  most  conducive   to   the 

lintenance  of  its   phy- 

:hc  hoof  of  the  pi^   is  as  .  rule  cloven,   there  are 

d   remarkable  e\<  •  some  of  the   pi.irs  in   the   United 

Sardinia,  etc..  in  which  the  hoof  is  cntii' 
uncl 

(115 


616         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Few  domestic  animals  are  so  profitable  or  so  useful  to  man  as  the 
much-maligned  pig,  and  no  other  yields  him  a  more  varied  or  more 
luxurious  repast.  The  prolificacy  of  the  pig  is  extraordinary  ;  even 
this  is  increased  when  the  pig  is  under  domestication,  but  when  left 
to  run  wild  in  favourable  situations,  as  in  the  islands  of  the  South 
Pacific,  the  result  in  a  few  years  from  two  animals  put  on  shore  and 
left  undisturbed,  is  truly  surprising,  since,  they  breed  so  fast  and  have 
such  large  litters,  that  unless  killed  off  in  vast  numbers  both  for  the 
use  of  the  inhabitants  and  as  fresh  provisions  for  ships'  crews,  they 
would  degenerate  into  vermin.  In  this  country  the  sow  usually  has 
two  litters  in  each  year  ;  the  breeding  seasons  are  generally  between 
January  and  October  ;  the  period  of  gestation  is  about  112  days 
or  1 6  weeks  ,•  the  strong  and  vigorous  sow  will  probably  carry  its 
young  a  few  days  longer,  whilst  the  old  and  young  sows,  which  are  not 
so  vigorous,  will  generally  farrow  their  pigs  a  few  days  before  this 
period  has  expired.  The  number  of  the  litter  cast  will  depend  upon 
the  breed  ;  the  larger  and  the  cross-bred  sows  will  average  ten  to 
twelve  in  a  litter,  and  the  small  breeds  eight  to  ten  each  trip.  In- 
stances have  been  recorded  of  a  sow  having  as  many  as  twenty-three 
pigs  at  one  farrowing.  Much  greater  care  has  of  late  years  been  taken 
in  the  selection  of  young  sows  from  those  litters  which  are  the  produce 
of  sows  which  are  not  only  prolific  but  which  are  good  sucklers  ;  by 
this  means  the  average  number  of  good  pigs  in  each  litter  has  been 
increased,  and  of  course  the  breeding  of  pigs  has  thus  been  rendered 
more  profitable. 

Even  within  the  last  quarter  of  a  century  it  was  frequently  declared 
that  a  pig  was  very  subject  to  many  diseases  caused  by  its  gluttony 
and  its  manner  of  hurriedly  consuming  very  large  quantities  of  food. 
This  idea  has  become  exploded,  and  it  has  been  proved  that  it  is  not 
so  much  the  large  quantity  of  food  which  a  pig  will  consume  which 
occasionally  causes  bilious  attacks  and  feverish  symptoms  which, 
if  not  relieved  by  medicine  and  exercise,  frequently  end  in  the  death 
of  the  pig,  but  illness  is  more  generally  due  to  injudicious  feeding  on 
too  rich  foods,  and  the  neglect  of  giving  to  the  pig  some  corrective 
in  the  form  of  coal,  cinders,  chalk  or  mere  earth  whilst  the  pig  is  kept 
confined  to  his  stye.  Another  exploded  idea  is  that  pigs  availed 
themselves  of  every  opportunity  to  rub  themselves  against  any 
post  or  projection  in  order  to  open  the  pores  of  the  skin,  blocked  up 
with  mud  and  to  excite  perspiration.  The  fact  is  the  pig  does  not 
perspire  ;  this  renders  it  so  very  subject  to  the  risk  of  death  from  over 
driving  in  the  hottest  part  of  a  hot  summer's  day.  Even  this  risk  is 
greatly  mitigated,  if  not  wholly  avoided,  by  applying  some  cold  water 
to  the  head  of  the  pig  between  the  ears,  whereas  if  the  water  be  thrown 
over  the  whole  of  the  carcass  of  the  pig,  death  will  almost  certainly 
follow. 

It  is  a  boast  of  the  Chicago  pork  packers  that  every  particle  of  the 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  COMMON  HOG  017 

pig  is  converted  into  something  useful.     The  skin  can 
Miu-d,  when  it  is  used  to  co  apableof  being 

(1  pressed  in  imitation  of  well-nigh  .  skins,  cm 

and  other,  then  it  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  pur-  .  jx>rt- 

ring  of  chairs,  etc.,  and  <  tent  has  been 

the  skin  of  the  ho^'  in  place  of  the  rubber  tyres  on 
shionable  carriages  of  the  monied  classes.     The  hair  of  tl. 
i  of  the  semi-domesticated  pig  in  Russia,  1- 
I  is  still  used  in  the  making  of  brushes,  as  it  n  od  t«»  be 
••lakers  in  the  sewing  and  stitching  of  boots  and 

ng  such  vast  herds  of  j 
ly  on  Indian  corn  or  mai/e,  the  value  c 

pig  nv  r  than  of  any  other  portion,  as  tl.  1:1  the 

manufacture  of  lard   foi  ic  use.     Now  millions  of  fat  pigs  arc 

annually  :i  ago  and  five  or  six  01  n  the 

ndered  and,  repoi •! 

proportion  of  cotton-seed-oil,  and  expoi •• 

and  other  i  oanti  i«  I  I  -  Kazd.     This  and  the  great  c '.  the  tastes 

and  habits  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  Bn:  ds  has  led  to  quite 

:  type  of  j  ;i  shortening  of  tin- 

Varieties  of  the  Domesticated  Hog.— The  distinct  v. 
hog  are  comprised   m   th<>^  ktd   alter  by 

ies  formed  for  the  purpose,  amor.  •  t  others,  of  keeping  a  register 
ol "  th.  the  pigs  <•  Mg  breeds  :    1J.< 

^hires,  su'  Middle 

local  breeds  of  more  or  less 

e   Dorset,   the  spotted  black  and   white 

sandy  nd    in    1  Morthanr  I   and   t> 

;xrl.ind.  the  I.nu(  In-liirc  or  Cambridgeshire,  the  \ 
and  the   Essex.  n  breeds  of  pigs,  such  as  <  se  or  the 

ixx-n  irui>ortcd  into  this  country, 
but  tin -y  have  ln-rn  absorbed  into  the  Englisl 

been  so  great  a  cl  my  of  our  doni 

of  stock  as  in  the  pig.     This  is  due  to  m  >es,  of 

:  are  the  gi  of  living  am 

residents  in  both  town  and  country,  and  the  iutr«>d.. 
of  mild  curing  b.K«'ii  .;nd  hams.     Both  of  these  changes  • 

years  ago.  vinous 

risequent  large  ad  •  the  salaries  of 

the  cv.  of  all  elasMi  -r  more  expen 

its  ol   liner  quality  b-  •  :n  lieu 

|x>tk  whirh  used  to  do  duty  r  nies  of 

s.     The  syst< 

mild  .rers  to  carry  on  th«- 

vcar  round,  so  that  no  difficulty 


618  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

was  experienced  by  them  in  satisfying  the  greatly  increased  require- 
ments of  the  public,  a  totally  different  style  of  pig  was  needed  for  con- 
version into  bacon,  a  comparatively  speaking  light  and  only  partially 
fattened  pig  best  suited  the  tastes  of  the  consumer,  who  had  begun 
to  look  with  disfavour  on  the  heavily  salted  fat  pork  of  the  olden  days, 
when  it  was  actually  necessary  that  the  meat  should  be  fat,  since  the 
lean  meat  became  so  hard  and  indigestible  when  heavily  salted.  Small 
hams,  of  some  12  to  15  lb.,  were  called  for  in  place  of  those  huge  masses 
of  meat,  weighing  from  30  to  50  lb.,  which  formerly  did  duty  as  hams; 
the  more  expensive  cuts  of  bacon  also  became  in  far  greater  demand 
than  the  cheaper  parts  of  the  side  of  bacon,  so  that  the  curers  in  self- 
defence  were  compelled  to  ask  the  breeders  of  pigs  to  produce  fat  pigs 
with  as  much  as  possible  of  those  parts,  such  as  the  ham  and  lengthy 
sides  which,  when  cured,  realized  the  highest  price,  and  which  were 
most  in  demand.  Again,  the  demand  for  the  early  fattened  pig, 
weighing  some  60  lb.  dead  weight,  increased  to  an  enormous  extent 
in  London  and  in  many  other  of  the  large  towns  ;  this  too  tended 
to  the  reduction  in  the  size  of  the  pig  generally  bred,  as  the  jointer 
or  London  porket  pig  is  considered  to  be  as  profitable  an  animal  to 
produce  as  any  of  our  domesticated  animals.  The  producer  of  fat 
pigs  in  the  Midlands  and  southern  counties  of  England  has  therefore 
two  markets  to  study — the  demand  for  the  porket  pig  with  a  carcass 
of  some  60  lb.,  and  the  bacon  curers'  and  retail  butchers'  pig,  which 
will  weigh  about  160  lb.  when  dressed.  In  the  northern  counties, 
where  the  temperature  is  cooler  and  the  general  customer  of  a  some- 
what different  class,  fat  pigs  of  300  lb.  are  still  sought  and  in  common 
demand.  The  severity  of  labour  in  the  so-called  Black  Country  may 
also  have  some  influence  on  the  kind  of  food  required. 

The  manufacturer  of  meat,  like  the  producer  of  any  article  for  con- 
sumption, must  consult  the  wants  of  his  customers  ;  this  requirement 
has  had  a  strong  influence  on  the  form  and  quality  of  even  our  different 
breeds  of  pigs.  For  instance,  the  Large  White  Yorkshire  and  its  ally, 
the  Lincolnshire  and  Cambridgeshire,  white  pigs  with  many  blue 
spots  on  the  skin,  has  of  late  years  become  a  general  favourite  amongst 
pig  breeders,  because  it  has  so  readily  conformed  to  the  present-day 
wants,  early  maturity  and  quality  of  meat.  In  the  olden  days  the 
Large  White  Yorkshire  was  a  quick-growing  pig,  strong  in  the  bone, 
coarse  in  flesh,  skin  and  hair,  and  remarkably  slow  in  maturing.  At 
the  present  time  no  variety  of  pig  will  so  quickly  become  of  the  weight 
desired  by  bacon  curers  and  butchers  generally  ;  not  only  so,  but  the 
form  of  the  carcass  and  the  quality  of  flesh,  skin  and  bone  is  equal 
to  that  furnished  by  any  kind  of  pig.  This  great  change  has  been 
brought  about  by  selecting  for  breeders  those  pigs  possessing  hard 
flat  bone,  thin  skin,  fine  silky  hair  and  early  maturity.  As  can  readily 
be  understood,  a  pig  of  this  type  must  be  a  profitable  manufacturer 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  COMMON   HOG    619 

of  meat,  since  it  has  to  grow  nothing  which  a  good  cook  is  unable  to 
convert  into  food  for  man.  The  present  day  Large  White  Yorkshire 
has  rather  a  long  head  with  a  light  jowl,  the  shoulders  are  light  and 
obliquely  laid,  the  ribs  are  well  sprung  and  deep,  the  back  is  long, 
the  loin  is  slightly  arched  and  of  fair  width,  the  flank  is  thick — indica- 
ting lean  flesh  and  much  of  it — the  quarters  are  lengthy,  the  ham 
long  with  meat  to  the  hocks,  the  bone  generally  is  fine  and  the  hair 
white  and  silky.  Both  boar  and  sow  are  docile  and  very  prolific, 
With  such  characteristics  it  is  bound  to  be  able  to  furnish  a  e 
of  pork  suited  for  the  London  provisioner,  the  bacon  curer  or  the 
butcher  in  the  northern  counties,  where  larger  and  fatter  pigs  are  in 
demand. 

The  Middle  White  Yorkshire  has  of  late  years  been  vastly  impr 

rly  maturity,  fine  quality  of  meat  and  suitability  for  supplying 
the  wants  of  Londoners  and  dwellers  in  large  towns  with  small  and 
luscious  joints  of  pork,  has  rendered  it  a  general  favourite  an 

'{MIS,  win  i  have  the  command  of  hotel  and  dairy  refuse.  Manv 
Middle  White  pigs  and  crosses  of  this  breed  are  now 
kept  in  the  neighbourhood  of  large  towns  and  fattened  on  meal  of 
various  kinds.  HUM  d  with  soup  manufactured  from  the  odds  and  ends 
of  bread,  meat,  potatot  collected  daily  from  the  large  hotels 

and  other  public  and  private  establishments  ;   this  collection  of  1 

ly  steamed  or  boiled,  then  the  bones  or  pieces 

which  will  not  dissolve  are  straii  .  the  soup  is  allowed  to  cool, 

and  when  the  fat  is  skimmed  off  the  liquor  is  fit  for  mixing  with  the 

:    the  mi\tu!  .old   in  the  summer,   whilst    in   winter  the 

soup  is  warmed,  so  that   the  digestive  or-. ins  of  ti  -in  at  once 

ul  of  a  certain   amount  of  animal    : 

d  to  first  warm  up  the  food  on  which  the  pig  is  fed.     Tin 
!  grow  and  fatten  rapidly,  furnishing  a  carcass  of  fine  m- 
me  65  Ib.  ere  they  .-.re  live  months  old.     The  points  of  a  Middle 
are  soni  --illar  to  the  I^arge  White  Yorkshire,  but  on  a 

smaller  scale  and  more  ounpai  t  ;   the  head,  ears  and  legs  are  sh< 
still,  if  the  Middle  White  be  kept  until  it  reaches  the  age  of  some  nine 
or  ten  months,  it  will  furnish  sides  of  pork  suitable  for  the  country 
butcher's  trade,  and  weighing  oo  to  I2O  Ib.  each.     Boars  of  tin- 
are  in  great  demand  both  at  home  and  abroad  for  crossing  on  the 
coarser  breeds  of  pigs  for  the  production  of  London  porkets  and  small 
pigs,  of  which  many  thousands  are  imported  into  England  each 

m  Holland.  Belgium  and  IVnm.tik. 

In  yeait  gon<-  by  the  black  and  white  pig     which  has  been  known 

as  the    iVrkshire    -and   the  Small  \Y:  -hire  occupied   the  posi- 

•aken    up   by   the    '.  d    Middle    White    Y«»rk- 

;    the  Small   White   t.  to  be  bred,   whilst 

i  its  formation  and 
M  its  colour,  .ng    to  the  standard 


620  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

set  up  by  the  British  Berkshire  Society,  a  black  pig,  having  a  white 
mark  or  blaze  down  the  face,  four  white  feet,  and  a  white  tip  to  its 
tail  ;  indeed,  so  strong  are  the  prejudices  as  to  colour,  that  it  is  quite 
an  unusual  thing  to  find  a  Berkshire  judge  giving  a  prize  to  a  pig  of 
the  breed  which  fails  in  its  "  markings." 

The  breeders  of  Berkshires  have  considerably  altered  the  type, 
form  and  character  of  their  favourites  during  the  last  thirty  years. 
The  present  day  pigs  are  shorter  and  deeper  in  the  carcass  ;  they 
have  shorter  and  heavier  heads,  and  are  altogether  more  compactly 
built  ;  to  such  a  state  of  this  kind  of  perfection  have  the  breeders 
brought  their  pigs,  that  a  well-fattened  Berkshire  is  one  of  the  most 
successful  fat  show  pigs  of  the  day.  A  cross  between  the  Berkshires 
and  the  Middle  Whites  is  very  common  and  very  successful  for  breed- 
ing London  porket  pigs  ;  the  white  pig  is  considered  to  be  more  pro- 
lific, and  the  cross-bred  pigs  grow  faster  when  young  than  the  pure 
bred  Berkshires. 

The  admirers  of  the  red-haired  Tamworth  pig  claim  that  some  of 
the  good  properties  of  the  old-fashioned  Berkshire  were  obtained 
from  the  infusion  of  a  considerable  portion  of  the  blood  of  the  bronze 
coloured  pig,  which  was  extensively  kept  in  olden  times  in  the  forests 
of  the  midland  counties,  where  they  picked  up  their  living  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  year.  These  pigs  were  of  a  tawny  or  sandy  colour, 
with  black  spots  on  the  skin  when  young,  but  gradually  assumed  a 
grizzly  bronze  hue  as  they  grew  older  ;  they  were  very  prolific,  and  the 
sows  were  good  sucklers — qualities  which  are  not  so  much  in  evidence 
amongst  the  present  fashionable  light  red  pigs,  which  still  retain  the 
long  snout,  somewhat  thick  shoulders  and  short  backs,  with  drooping 
rumps.  Their  aptitude  to  fatten  has  been  greatly  increased,  and  the 
disposition  of  the  sows  has  been  much  improved.  Some  few  years 
since  considerable  numbers  of  the  improved  type  of  Tamworth  were 
used  to  cross  on  the  black  sows  in  those  counties  which  supply  the 
Calne  and  other  bacon  factories  with  fat  pigs  ;  this  is  not  so  general 
now,  since  the  crosses  were  found  to  be  too  short  from  the  shoulder 
to  the  hip  and  too  light  in  the  flank  to  furnish  enough  of  the  so-called 
streaky  part  of  the  side  of  bacon,  which  realizes  much  more  money 
per  Ib.  than  any  other  cut. 

A  new  candidate  for  public  favour  in  the  form  of  the  so-called  Large 
Black  pig  has  been  considerably  boomed  during  the  last  five  or  six 
years.  At  present  the  type  is  not  quite  fixed  ;  the  sources  from  which 
the  material  from  which  the  breed  has  been  evolved  are  mainly  two, 
Cornwall  and  Essex,  but  the  type  of  Large  Black  pig  found  in  the  two 
counties  varies  greatly.  At  the  present  time  the  lop-eared,  some- 
what heavy  jowled,  thick  shouldered  and  round  boned  Cornwall  type 
is  most  successful  in  the  show  yards.  The  sows  are  prolific  and  first- 
rate  mothers,  and  the  young  pigs  are  hardy  and  quick  growers,  whilst 
the  matured  fat  pig  is  of  great  weight,  but  there  is  still  room  for  im- 


ERAJL  OBSERVATION  OH    fHE  COMMON  HOG    621 

mcnt  in  the  head  and  shoulders  and  in  the  length  and  quality 
of  carcase     '1  'ho   fat   pigs  sell  readily  amongst  the  miners  in   ' 
wall,  but  it  is  doubtful  if  the  consumers  in  the  eastern  midlands  and 
London  will  purchase  pork  very  freely  winch  is  made  from  the  present 
fashionable  type  of  Large  Black. 

The  Blue-Black   pig  found   in   Sussex   has  many  good  qualities  j   it 
is  a  good  fora.  •,  is  prolific  and  hardy,  and  the  pigs 

turn  for  the  fatting  food  when  they 
tinvd,   which  is  at  rather  a  late  period  of  their  lives.         : 

!y  maturity  may  have  been  one  of  the  causes  for  the  cross; 

s  with  i  hire  or  Dorset  boar.     The  cross  bred 

v  the  Bcrksl;  icn  more  nadily  and  i 

nality  of  pork  not  be  c< 

but  the  cross  bred  pigs  are  certainly  of  a  more  pleasing  ; 
and  carriage. 

The  Dorset  was  also  of  a  slate  colour  and,  like  the  Sussex. 

v.y.  pure  bred  specimens  of  the  fl  now 

be  found  ;    the  br> 
at  the  fat  stock  shows  he-Id  in  London  and  other 

asserted  tha  t  1  >orsct 

mall  Black  boar,  in  order  to  incr 
ly.     In  this  the  breeders  were  very  successful  ;   some 

!  at  the  Smithlield  Club's  shows  were  certainly 
Is  of  obesity,  but  .isscs  proved  to  be  men:  bl.uM 

•s    quant 

!iufacturcd  from  maize  and  cottonseed  «-i'. 
imported  into   this  COB 

The   so-called   Oxfordshire  or   plum    pudding   pig.  found  in  p.r 
Xortl  rshire  and  O  !v   lost  at 

•  time.     The  use  of  Neap-  !  other  boars  of  a  black 

has  well  nigh  converted  this  local  breed  into  one  of 
iv  with  !••  e  colour.     Sows  of  this  ch. 

iHiints  ;    their  ability  to  rough  it  and  t< 

1    with   which   the  midland  counties  far 

ouritc.     The  sows  are  good  m«  d  the 

•ul  when  put  up  to 

:  it  pigs  also  fur n is 

••  Inch  hov  ^  cost  rather  a  high  price  to  pi 

The  Cumberland    or    North    County    pig   was   a   prime  tc    for 

supplying   the  well-known   and  much  appreciated  Cumber! 
s  of  old-fashioned  curing. 

^elf  was  of  considerable 
but  not  as  bulky  as  the  Large  Y  ;    its  bon 

fnr  tl  he  Cumberland  h<\-  is  still  another  of  the 

local  1  .ised  to  <  n.     It  has 


622  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

been  well  nigh  crossed  out  of  existence.  The  pigs  found  at  present 
in  the  northern  counties  are  of  no  particular  type  ;  they  appear  to 
be  mainly  crosses  of  the  Yorkshire  boar  on  the  country  sows,  their 
age  and  substance  varying  according  to  the  local  demand  for  pork 
which  is  ruled  by  the  calling  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  pig  country,  par  excellence,  is  North  America,  where  the 
porcine  population  is  said  to  total  some  forty  millions.  A  very  large 
proportion  of  these  are  Poland  Chinas,  Durse-Jerseys,  Chester  Whites, 
Victorias  or  Cheshires  ;  all  of  these  breeds  are  claimed  to  be  new 
breeds  of  home  manufacture.  This  may  or  may  not  have  sufficient 
foundation.  The  Poland  China  is  a  compound  breed  ;  its  present 
appearance — fashion  in  pigs  changes  as  much  in  the  United  States 
as  fashions  generally  do  in  this  country — is  very  similar  to  a  Berk- 
shire, of  the  thick-shouldered,  heavy-boned  type,  save  that  the  ears 
are  somewhat  longer,  and  broken  or  bent  in  the  middle  instead  of  being 
pricked,  as  is  the  ear  of  the  Berkshire.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the 
Poland  China  is  a  marvellous  pig  for  the  manufacture  of  lard  out  of 
Indian  corn,  or,  as  we  term  it,  maize.  The  Durse-Jersey  is  a  red  pig 
of  much  the  same  conformation  as  the  Poland  China  ;  its  breeders 
however  claim  that  it  is  more  prolific.  Chester  Whites  and  Cheshires 
are  white  in  colour  ;  the  former  is  a  somewhat  coarse  lard-producing 
hog  ;  the  latter  is  a  longer  pig,  and  more  of  what  we  should  term  a 
bacon  hog  of  indifferent  quality.  The  Victoria  is  a  compound  pig 
of  a  white  colour,  which  is  due  to  the  use  of  a  white  boar  of  the  so- 
called  Suffolk  or  Small  Yorkshire  breed  ;  these  breeds  in  turn  ap- 
peared to  be  really  importations  of  Middle  White  or  Small  White  pigs 
from  this  country.  The  Berkshire  and  the  Chester  White  sows  appear 
to  have  been  used  to  build  up  the  Victoria  pig,  which  is  very  similar 
in  appearance  to  many  of  the  cross  Middle  White  and  Berkshire  fat 
pigs  shown  in  the  Middle  White  and  cross  bred  classes  at  the  Smith- 
field  Show  in  London.  The  pork  packers  in  the  States  have  been 
endeavouring  of  late  years  to  induce  pig  breeders  to  pay  more  atten- 
tion to  the  length  and  quality  of  flesh  and  bone  of  their  pigs,  in  order 
that  they  may  capture  a  share  of  the  high  class  English  bacon  trade  ; 
their  success  so  far  has  not  been  great,  as  not  only  is  it  necessary  to 
have  the  right  type  of  pig,  but  it  is  also  imperative  that  the  pigs  must 
be  fed  on  a  mixture  of  foods,  of  which  maize  forms  only  a  comparatively 
small  proportion  during  the  latter  part  of  the  fatting  period. 

Pig  breeders  in  the  British  Isles  are  more  likely  to  find  far  stronger 
competition  in  the  bacon  manufactured  in  Canada  and  Denmark  than 
in  that  produced  in  the  United  States.  The  pigs  in  the  Dominion 
were  of  a  mixed  character,  and  more  suitable  for  the  production  of 
mess  or  barrel  pork,  such  as  is  used  up  country  in  the  lumber  dis- 
tricts of  Canada  ;  these  barrels  of  fat  pork  and  the  other  necessary, 
but  not  very  varied,  supplies  of  food  are  sent  up  into  those  parts 
where  the  lumbermen  will  work  for  some  months  entirely  separated 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS   ON   THE   COMMON    HOG    623 

from  the  world.  The  cold  is  intense,  so  that  a  great  amount  of  fat 
is  needed  to  keep  up  the  warmth  of  the  body.  Some  t unity  or  more 
years  since  one  or  two  of  the  chief  pork  packers  in  Canada  imported 
a  number  of  Large  Yorkshire  pigs  from  one  of  our  best  herds.  The 
improvement  in  the  form  and  quality  of  the  pigs  was  so  great 
other  importations  \\crc  made.  Then  a  few  Tamworths  v. 
These  also  tended  to  increase  the  proportion  of  lean  in  the  country 
pig,  so  that  at  the  present  time  nearly  all  the  pigs  killed  and  cured 
in  the  bacon  factories — of  which  several  have  recently  been  built — 
are  of  the  Yorkshire  crossed  with  Berkshire,  Tamworth,  Poland  China 
and  native  pigs.  At  the  present  time  Canadian  bacon  is  very  largely 
consumed  in  this  country,  where  the  price  realized  for  it  is  greatly 
in  excess  of  that  made  of  the  American  bacon.  This  for  two  reasons  : 
the  quality  is  superior,  due  to  the  pigs  having  been  fed  on  a  r. 
diet  and  dairy  offals,  instead  of  mainly  maize,  and  the  form  of  the 
side  of  bacon  and  ham  is  betu -r.  the  finer  quality  parts  forming  a 

i   proportion  of  the  side.     The  marvellous  improvement  in  the 
quality  of  the  Canadian  bacon  is  clearly  shown  in  the  following  e-- 

a  speech  recently  made  by  Mr.   F.  YV.  Hodson,  the  Live  Stock 
Commissioner  at  Ottawa,  a  man  to  whom  the  Canadian  farmers  are 

Iv   indel. 

1  Twelve  years  ago  we  exported  $600,000  worth  of  inferior  bacon  ; 
now  we  arc  exporting  nearly  $15,000,000  worth  of  superior  bacon. 
The  measure  of  success  achieved  is  mainly  due  to  breeding  along  one 
line — the  line  of  bacon  hogs.  We  have  not  yet  gone  as  far  as  we 
should  have  gone.  In  Denmark  they  use  one  breed  only  (the 
White  Yorkshire),  and  the  result  is  that  Danish  bacon  sells  at  ti 

.tilings  per  long  cwt.  above  Canadian  bacon.     The  Danes  do  not 

better  than  our  people,  but  they  breed  better.  You  cannot 
produce  the  first-class  bacon  required  to  build  up  our  export 
in  this  line  if  you  use  the  thick,  fat  American  breeds  of  hogs  as  your 
foundation  stock.  By  using  the  right  kind  we  can  share  in  the  mon- 
oj)olv  of  tlu-  best  bacon  trade  in  the  world  (the  English),  which  is  now 
divided  between  I >e:nn.irk.  Ireland,  a  small  part  of  England  and  bur- 

sel\ 

Tin-  ible  and  correct  speech  clearly  points  out  the  sources 

of  supply  of  the  enormous  quantity  of  breakfast  bacon  now  consumed 

•land.      A  few  yea;  land  furnished  us  wit h  all  t lie  imported 

bacon,    then   < .  and   Sweden.     A  protective 

:ig  stutN  90  raided    thc«priccof   the  raw  artule.  tli, it  the 
:   to  be  convi  :  bacon  at  The 

•tected  count:  md  others 

K.   where   the  Government  has  greatly  helped   the 
:    and    tl  >r  by  gi\  -mis   <>n    everv    }>« 

the  best  1.  utd,  and  in  rli 

the  IM\\.M   j>.^ibl<-  rai  s  and  bacon.     The  G« 


624         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

ment  also  sent  experienced  men  over  to  England  to  inspect  all  the 
noted  herds  of  Yorkshire  pigs  and  to  purchase  specimens  ;  these  last 
were  bred  from  in  Denmark,  their  breeding  and  fatting  qualities  were 
noted,  and  their  product  in  the  form  of  bacon  compared.  The  result 
was  a  number  of  both  boars  and  sows  were  purchased  from  one  old 
breeder  during  several  years  ;  herds  were  thus  established  in  Den- 
mark, so  that  now  only  occasional  boars  are  imported  to  secure  a 
slight  change  of  blood  ;  and  Danish  bacon  is  fast  approaching  the  value 
and  quality  of  the  Irish  bacon.  This  last  has  certainly  not  made 
anything  approaching  the  improvement  of  late  years  which  has  been 
noticeable  in  the  Danish  product  ;  the  Irish  bacon  had  already  ac- 
quired a  high  character,  and  the  importation  of  the  finest  Large  York- 
shire pigs  from  England  has  not  been  on  a  sufficiently  extensive  scale; 
the  result  has  been  a  slight  decadence  instead  of  an  improvement  in 
the  form  and  quality  of  the  ordinary  Irish  country  pig.  The  Irish 
bacon  curers  have  apparently  done  their  best  to  arouse  their  country- 
men to  the  certain  loss  of  the  best  English  market  unless  the  quality 
of  the  fat  pigs  is  kept  up  ;  but  the  natural  apathy  of  the  people  and 
the  alleged  desire  of  the  Dublin  officials  to  keep  the  trade  in  pure  bred 
pigs  in  Irish  hands  appear  to  render  null  and  void  the  loyal  attempts 
of  the  curers  to  benefit  the  Irish  farmers  and  themselves  at  one  and 
the  same  time.  How  great  the  importation  of  bacon  into  this  country 
is  does  not  appear  to  have  been  realized.  In  an  article  written  by  one 
of  our  specialists,  and  published  in  a  recent  issue  of  the  Journal  of  the 
Board  of  Agriculture,  it  was  stated  that  250,000  tons  of  bacon,  valued 
at  some  twenty-five  millions  sterling,  was  annually  imported.  Surely 
our  farmers  and  pig  keepers  are  neglectful  in  allowing  this  enormous 
amount  of  money  to  be  sent  yearly  out  of  the  country  principally  for 
an  article  which  we,  with  our  fine  breed  of  pigs  and  our  wonderful 
climate,  ought  to  produce  at  home.  It  does  seem  strange  that  you 
might  almost  count  the  English  bacon  factories  on  one  hand  ;  it  is 
true  that  at  one  of  our  largest  factories  the  finest  bacon  in  the  world 
is  manufactured,  but  this  only  proves  that  we  could  produce  a  large 
proportion  of  the  twenty-five  million  pounds'  worth  of  bacon  which 
Denmark,  Canada,  the  States  and  other  countries  now  send  into  this 
country. 

The  wild  pig  has  long  since  disappeared  from  this  country,  nor  is  it 
largely  consumed  even  in  those  foreign  countries  where  it  is  still  found. 
One  of  the  chief  uses  to  which  it  is  put  is  the  furnishing  of  sport.  In 
India  pig  sticking  is  very  popular,  whilst  in  Germany,  Austria  and 
some  other  countries  wild  pig  shooting  and  hunting  is  held  in  high 
esteem.  Again,  in  Russia  and  Servia  immense  droves  of  pigs  are  kept 
in  the  forests,  where  they  mate  at  their  own  pleasure  and  pick  up  their 
living  unattended  by  man  and  even  unnoticed,  until  the  order  goes 
forth  for  the  slaughter  of  a  certain  number.  The  mere  fact  that  none 
of  the  pigs  have  been  operated  upon,  and  their  food  having  consisted 


KKAL  OBSERVATIONS   ON   Till-    COMMON  HO<. 

ml  the  seed  of  oaks,  chestnuts,  beech  and  oth. 

suttu  lent  to  jji  v  good  idea  of  the  quality — or  want  of  it — of 

the  meat.      In   this  country  such  stuff  would   tail  to  find  a  market. 

it  were  for  the  conversion  into  the  le 

i.f  our  large  towns,  where  the  poverty  is  so  great  that  anything 
in  the  form  of  meat  is  looked    upon  as  a  treat,  to  be   enjoycii 

!ly. 
Within  a  quarter  of  a  century  of  the  present  t 

supj>osed  to  breed  and  feed  tl  for  particular  market. 

The  h  pig  of  8  or  10  lb.,  which  was  looked  upon  as  an 

ideal  dish  in  the  cold  I  only  obtainable  when  the  usual 

in  the  value  of  pigs  came  round,  after  the  three  or  four 
of  enhanced  value  of  pigs.     Then  many  litters  of  pigs  of  about  three 
or  four  weeks  old  would  be  slau  aid  despatched  to  the  large 

or  centres  of  population,  where  they  would  realize  some  6s.  or 

far  better  than  they  would  have  done 
md  of  the  breeding  sows 

is  followed  for  a  few  months,  when  the  shortage  of  pigs  becomes  - 
able,  and  every  on <  -lock  of  ; 

to  become  the  possessor  of  some  of  those  w  hi.  h 
tin    more  thoughtful  neighbour  had  continued  to  breed.     The  i. 
result  1  up.  the  weanlings  become 

of  thn  of  roasting  su 

ea  a  thin-;  <  i  haps  three  or  four  years.        The 

s  other  factors,  such  as  tl  !  state  of  trade  and 

•>f  the  masses,  have  a  strong  inf.  ihe  value 

of  pork  ai; 

not  now  as  noticeable  as  r 

some  years  since,  when  the  pigs  required  for  conversion  into  bacon 
1  to  be  unsuitable  unless  they  turned  the  scale  at  400 
or  500  lb.  at  least.     Now  the  fat  pig  of  about  150  lb.  dead 

by  the  bacon  curer  and  the  meat  purvt  \ 

.IT  pig  is  still  in 

demand  in  the  northern  counties. 

Unwholesome  Pork. — There  is  little  doubt  that  in  the  olden  t 

•  if  the  c<>; 

t   times  diseased.     The  pa;  richina  spiralis,  was  by 

unknown  «  ountry  ;    whilst   in   Germany  and 

count  .v  pork  in  the  form  of  ham  and  sau- 

\3  common,  cases  of  this  disease  are  still  reported.     The  presence 
the  human  body  is  most   painful,  and  gen 

ioking,  or  sub- 
ill  not  kill  th  infected  i; 

Fort u  i  .osis  hav< 

•miry.      Diseased  ]««.vk.  which  in  ol«!  went 


626  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

under  the  name  of  "  measly  pork,"  has  not  of  late  years  been  found 
in  this  country.  It  was  due  to  the  presence  of  the  parasite  Cystersus 
cellulose?,  found  in  the  form  of  a  small  cyst  about  the  size  of  a  pea, 
imbedded  in  the  tissue.  Thorough  cooking  also  renders  this  parasite 
innocuous.  Under  the  insanitary  conditions  which  fattened  pigs 
had  been  kept  in  the  olden  days  for  a  much  longer  period  than  is  now 
considered  necessary  to  fit  them  for  the  butcher,  tuberculosis  was  not 
infrequently  developed,  but  even  this  dread  disease  has  never  been 
proved  to  have  been  communicated  to  human  beings  by  eating  the 
flesh  of  animals  suffering  from  tuberculosis.  The  medical  profession 
are  still  warmly  discussing  the  question  of  the  similarity  of  this  disease 
as  it  exists  in  human  beings  and  in  our  domesticated  animals.  The 
present  enlightened  system  of  housing  farm  animals  is  fast  reducing 
the  number  of  cases  of  tuberculosis  amongst  our  live  stock. 

To  Choose  Pork. — In  the  good  old  times  the  quality  of  pork  was 
most  variable  ;  the  long  so-called  store  period  of  the  life  of  the  pig, 
when  it  had  to  hunt  for  its  living  to  such  an  extent  that  starvation 
diet  was  frequently  its  portion,  to  be  followed  by  a  period  of  stuffing 
on  more  or  less  rich  food  and  without  a  possibility  of  exercise  and 
a  breath  of  sweet  air  ;  all  these  undesirable  conditions  injuriously 
affected  the  quality  of  the  pork  produced  under  such  insanitary  con- 
ditions. At  the  present  time  pig  keepers  are  cognisant  of  the  fact 
that  pork  made  from  young  pigs  which  have  been  well  fed  from  their 
birth  realizes  so  much  more  on  the  market  and  pays  them  so  much 
better,  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  pigs  kept  in  this  country  do  not 
know  what  the  old-fashioned  store  period  in  the  life  of  a  pig  was  like. 
There  is  little  doubt  that  the  manner  in  which  pigs  were  kept  in  other 
days  was  the  principal  cause  for  the  prejudice  which  exists  against 
fresh  pork  as  an  article  of  diet.  This  prejudice  is  fast  dying  out  now 
that  sanitary  arrangements  are  attended  to,  and  the  fatting  pigs  fed 
on  common  sense  and  humanitarian  lines.  This  improvement  is 
especially  valuable  to  the  lower  classes,  who  find  pork  the  most 
economical  meat  food,  since  it  can  be  cooked  in  so  many  appetising 
ways,  and  every  portion  of  the  pig  can  be  utilized  for  the  food  of  man. 
It  can  also  be  produced  at  less  cost  than  other  meat,  and  consequently 
can  be  sold  more  cheaply.  The  percentage  of  loss  in  killing  is  only 
some  23  per  cent,  against  nearly  twice  as  much  in  the  case  of  cattle. 
There  is  now  far  less  necessity  for  care  in  the  choice  of  the  joint  of  pork> 
since  well  nigh  the  whole  is  of  far  better  quality  than  a  few  years  since. 
The  fat  of  the  best  pork  is  white,  the  lean  of  a  brownish  hue,  ingrained 
with  fat  ;  the  rind  should  be  thin  and  the  bone  fine  but  solid  ;  these 
last  are  generally  accepted  as  sure  indications  of  good  quality  of  meat. 

Ham. — The  sources  of  supply  of  the  finest  hams  are  now  far  more 
numerous  than  a  few  years  since.  There  is  also  a  great  change  in  the 
size,  form  and  degree  of  fatness  of  the  ham  now  desired.  In  place 
of  the  20  to  40  Ib.  hams,  by  no  means  uncommon  in  the  past,  the 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON   THE   COMMON    HOG    627 

highest  priced  ham  is  one  of  some  10  to  12  Ib. — anice,  plump  long  ham, 
fine  in  the  skin  and  bone,  fairly  fat,  and  cut  off  a  carcass  of  pork  fur- 
nish* d  by  a  pig  which  has  not  lived  more  than  seven  months.     This 
kind  <>f  ham  is  delicate  in  flavour,  short  in  texture,  easily  di. 
and  economical.     At  one  time  the  cold  fat  ham  was  one  of  the  standing 
breakfast  dishes  in  the  houses  of  the  wealthy  ;    now  a  hot  ham  is  far 
more  frequently  a  favourite  course  at  dinner.     Its  reappearance   in 
the  dining  or  breakfast  room  is  seldom, so  that  on  economical  grounds 
if  on  none  other,  a  small  ham  is  preferable  to  a  large  one.     At  the 
t  time  Irish  hams  realize  the  highest  price  in  the  London  market, 
nadian  and  Danish  hams  are  pressing  the  English  and  Irish  hams 
A  considerable  number  of  Cumberland  and  Yorkshire 
•ill  sent  to  the  southern  counties,  but  the  purchasers  of  these 
are  old-fashioned  housekeepers  or  others  having  large  families  to  pro- 
;«»r.     At  one  time  hams  \\cre  cut  in  various  fashions  ;   now  that 
the  majority  of  the  hams  are  i  uivd  with  the  side  of  bacon,  the  shape 

it  of  the  ham  varies  but  little. 

To  choose  a  Ham,  select  one  fine  in  the  bone,  then  run  a  skewer   in 
•Middle  of  the  ham.      If  it  comes  out  clean  and 

snull  t  is  good,  but  it  it   sinelK  *tn»ng  and  has  fat  adhering 

tin  be  cut,  sc-  white 

and  n  1  with  yellow.      All  meat  first  goes  bad  near  the  bone. 

A  ham  may  n<  •  .d,  vet  not  of  the  1  ity  ;    it  may  1 

salt  or  :1  ivourless,  owing  to  improper  curing.  Conn 

a   ham   which   has   i  •    for  some  months,   but    the  diltuulty   in 

obtaining  then:  .    now   than  formerly  ;    this  is  due  I 

tlv    increased  consum  hams   and    the  change 

in  the  systi-m  of    curing.      In  a  few  country  <h  ill  possible 

to  obt.  j-ly  of  .1  \\ith  an  old-fashioned 

local  curcr  to  take  a  fixed  number  at  -ds.     Of  course  the 

pur\< -\  '•>  charge  an  extra  price  to  cover  risk  of  los 

ital.  etc.      Tin-re  :    the  most 

common  is  to  inclose  them  in  brown  paper  and  calico  bags  ;   others 

place  them  in  a  box  covered  with  malt  combs  or  broad  bran. 
To   Buy  Bacon. — In  choosing  bacon,  similar  action  can  be  taken,  but 
as  a  rule  the  shoulder  is  the  only  part  likely  to  b«  enor- 

d   consumption  of  so-called  breakfast  bacon,  for  i 
or  that   |x>rtion  of  the  side  <  ;  from  the  shoulder 

about  three-fourths  of  the  depth  of  the  side — is  most 
in  demand  ;    consequently   i:  much   the  highest    price   per  Ib. 

I  now  purchase  the  shoulder  and  cut  it  ham 
•es  duty  as  a    ham.       It  is  not  so  fine  i: 
:ore  bone,  but  ,iinly  an  economical  joint.     The 

liR  h  a  side  of  bacon  is  now  c  ut 

urn  counties,  \\\'  •   price  of  each  joint  of  the 

•    quality  : — 


628  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Weight  about  Price  per  Ib. 

lb.  s.     d. 

Fore  end  .          .  .  17  06 

Middle          .  .      35  o  n£ 

Gammon  «  14  o     8£ 

Cut  through  side  nearest  the  shoulder         12  i     o£ 

Second  cut  .  ...      12  i     o£ 

Third  Cut  ....  12  i     o 

Forehock     .          .          .          .          .          .10  05 

Thick  streaky  .          .          .  9  on 

Thin  streaky         .          .          .          .          .       4^  o  io£ 

Flank           .                                                           3£  o     si- 
Three-quarter  gammon          .          .          .  •    10  07^- 
Corner  of  gammon        .          .          .                  4  i     oj- 
Long  back                       .                                      911 
Back  and  ribs      .....       9  i     o£ 

Collar  .          .          .          .7  07^ 

Whole  side  .          .          .          .  65  09^ 

The  best  and  most  humane  way  of  killing  pigs  is  to  strike  them 
with  a  heavy  hammer  between  or  just  above  the  eyes  ;  the  pigs  drop 
down  senseless,  then  the  butcher  inserts  his  knife  into  the  chest,  pier- 
cing the  heart  of  the  pig,  which  very  quickly  bleeds  to  death.  The 
hair  is  removed  in  two  ways,  either  by  so-called  scalding,  i.e.  immers- 
ing the  body  of  the  pig  into  water  of  a  certain  temperature,  or  by 
placing  a  bundle  of  straw  round  the  carcass,  setting  fire  to  the  fuel 
and  burning  off  the  hair  ;  this  last  plan  is  not  much  followed,  save 
in  Somersetshire  and  two  or  three  adjacent  counties.  The  followers 
of  this  practice  assert  that  the  flavour  of  the  meat  is  improved.  The 
scalding  is  certainly  far  the  cleaner  plan,  and  is  in  more  general  use. 
The  best  weight  for  a  bacon  curer's  pig  is  about  220  lb.  alive.  The  loss 
in  dressing  a  fat  pig  varies  with  the  age,  size  and  degree  of  fatness  of 
the  pig  ;  small  porket  pigs  will  dress  from  70  to  75  per  cent.;  fat  pigs 
weighing  above  some  220  lb.  will  lose  about  23  to  25  per  cent,  of  their 
weight  in  dressing,  whilst  very  fat  and  old  pigs  will  sometimes  dress 
as  much  as  85  per  cent,  of  their  gross  weight. 

The  system  of  bacon  curing  has  completely  changed  of  late,  as  has 
the  cutting  up  of  the  pig  for  curing  ;  now  the  pig  is  merely  divided 
down  the  back,  the  head  is  cut  off,  the  shoulder  bone  taken  out,  and 
the  backbone  and  the  major  part  of  the  lean  meat  is  taken  off.  When 
the  side  of  pork  has  brine  or  pickle  forced  into  it  by  means  of  what 
are  termed  force  pumps,  the  sides  are  then  packed  on  each  other,  a 
layer  of  salt,  etc.  being  used  between  each  side.  The  sides  are  thus 
left  for  about  a  fortnight  when  the  curing  is  finished,  and  are  baled 
and  sold  on  the  large  markets,  whence  country  bacon  merchants  pur- 
chase, smoke  and  retail  them  to  the  provisioner.  At  most  of  the  bacon 


Gl-NERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  COMMON    HOG     629 

factories  a  certain  portion  of  the  bacon  is  smoked  for  the  retail  trade, 
the  quantity  varying  with  the  orders  received.     Sausages,  pork  pus, 

are  also  manufactured  in  some  of  the  factories. 

Salt  pork  is  commonly  made  in  farm  houses;  somewhat  small  fat 

pigs  are  killed,  the  roasting  parts  are  cut  off  and  the  remainder  of  the 

s  cut  up  into  pieces  of  about  the  size  which  will  subsequently 

be  required  for  cooking,  and  placed  in  an  earthenware  pot  in 

brine  had  been  already  placed.     Th<  the  brine, 

and  pieces  of  it  are  taken  out  as  required  for  use.     It  ;  ble  to 

!  the  leaner  pieces  first,  or  they  may  become  too  salt. 

The  usual  joints  of  small  fresh  pork  are  the  leg,  the  loin,  which  in 

turn  i  1  into  fore — or,  as  it  is  sometii  rop  or 

rib — and  hind  ;    the  hand,  the    spring,  tl  e    belly,    middle    cut 

ancl  the  head.     The  respect r  somewhat 

according  to  tin-  season  and  •  ut  up 

in  various  ways  ;    in  the  north  of  Kn.uland.  where  large  fat  hogs  arc 

now  mainly  killed,   the  legs,  shoulders,  belly  and  the  fat,  after  the 

off,  are  generally  salted  lightly  and  then  l>- 

the  lor  .are  roasted  whole,  save  when  converted  into 

ork-chops,  which  are  considered  to  be  very  rich  and  suitable 
only  when  th-  old. 

The  Names  of  the  Several  Joints  are  as  follows  : — 

FORE-QUARTER.  Hi  H:R. 

3.  Spring,  or  belly. 

<>in.  6.   1 

ht  of  the  several  joints  of  a  good  pork  pig  of  6  stone  may  be 
follows,  viz  : — 

The  leg 8  Ib. 

The  loin   and   sp:  n  „ 

The  hand  6  ,, 

The  chine        ....  7  „ 

Th.  from  2  (03  ib. 

FORE-QUARTER. 
(i)  Spare-rib. — Gem-rally  roasted. 

Hand.— Usually  slightly  salted  and  boiled,  to  < -r  hot  or 

(4)  Fore-loin. — For  roa* 

1 1 1  ND-QUARTER. 

-pring,  or  belly.— G«  ilted  and  boiled. 

oin.  -The  best   roasting  joint,   but   rather   fat.     Large  chops 

EC    it. 

Leg. — The  most  ccono  mt   in   this  as  in  most 

mimals.     It  is  less  fat    than   the  fore-quarter.     Used  also  for 


630 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


Besides  these  joints,  the  following  parts  of  the  pig  are  sold  for  food  : — 

(7)  Head,  also  known  in  various  parts  of  the  country  as  "  cheek," 
or  "  chopper."    Weighs  5  Ib.  to  6  Ib.  and  can  often  be  bought  very  cheap. 
Is  generally  slightly  salted  and  made  into  brawn.     Can  also  be  collared 
or  boiled. 

(8)  Feet,  or  pettitoes. — Generally  boiled  and  served  hot  or  cold.     Not 
unfrequently  they  are  boned  and  stuffed. 

(9)  Liver,  sweetbread,  and  some  of  the  inside  fat  are  often  sold  together 
under  the  name  of  pig's  fry. 

(10)  Lard. — Any  part  of  the  fat  is  melted  down  and  sold  in  bladders, 
tubs,  or  by  the  pound,  for  pastry  making,  frying,  etc.    The  lower  the 
heat  at   which  it    is   melted    the    smoother   and   less   granulous  it  is. 
Occasionally  it  is  said  to  be  mixed  with  flour  or  starch.      Much  is  im- 
ported annually  from  America.     It  has  a  lower  melting  point  than  beef 
or  mutton  fat  and — partly  for  that  reason — is  less  suitable  for  frying 
than  other  fats.     It  is  better  adapted   for  making  pastry. 


TABLE  OF  THE  RELATIVE  VALUE  OF  VARIOUS  JOINTS 

OF  PORK 

SHOWING  THE  ACTUAL  COST  OF  THE  EATABLE  PORTIONS,  AFTER  DE- 
DUCTING BONE,   SKIN   AND   WASTE,   AND   Loss  BY  WEIGHT,  BY 

DIFFERENT    MODES    OF   COOKING. 

In  the  following  tables  the  different  parts  have  been  carefully  tested 
with  the  view  of  finding  out  which  are  really  the  most  economical. 
It  will  be  seen  that  the  leg  of  pork  wastes  less  than  the  loin,  and  that 
the  best  part  of  bacon  is  the  cheapest  when  boiled. 


Name  of  Joint. 

How  usually 
cooked. 

Weight 
before 
cooking. 

Weight 
when 
cooked, 
bone  and 
waste 
deducted. 

Total 
loss 
perlb. 

Average 
cost 
perlb. 

Cost  per  Ib. 
after  cook- 
ing, bone 
and  waste 
deducted. 

Ib.    oz. 

Ib.    oz. 

oz. 

s.     d. 

s      d. 

Bacon  (back) 

Boiled 

2     8 

2     8 

None 

0    II 

0    II 

„      (side)        .      . 

Fried 

o     8 

o     6 

4 

o     9 

I      2j 

„      (cushion)  . 

Boiled 

4     8 

3     8 

3* 

o     9 

0    Il£ 

Ham     

Boiled 

it   15 

7     7 

6 

I       0 

7i 

„     (rashers) 

Fried 

0    12 

o     8 

5* 

I       0 

6 

„     (knuckle)      .      . 

Boiled 

2    II 

i   15 

4i 

o     8 

o 

Leg  of  pork     . 

Roasted     . 

6     8 

4     9 

4* 

o     9 

i 

,,       „           ... 

Boiled 

5  ii 

4     o 

4f 

o     9 

i 

Loin  of  pork  (hind)   . 

Roasted     . 

4     3 

2      7 

6J 

0    IO 

4l 

„     (fore)     . 

Roasted 

4     6 

2    10 

6| 

o     9 

3 

„      (whole) 

Roasted     . 

14     o 

9     8 

5 

o     9 

i 

Liver  and  fry 

Fried 

I     10 

i     i 

s! 

o     6 

if 

Pickled  pork 

Boiled 

2      0 

i   U 

o     8 

o     Si 

GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON   THE  COMMON   HOG    631 

TABLE   GIVING   WEIGHT   OF   BONE,   SKIN    AND   WASTE    IN 
JOINTS  OF  POKK 


Name  of  Joint. 

lit  of 
]<  int  when 
bought. 

;.tof 

bone,  skin 
and  waste. 

Loss  of 

I  t.y 

cooking. 

Total 
weight  of 

Wfi 

Ib.    oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Ib.     oz. 

Bacon  (back)  . 

2       8 

None 

2      8 

„       (cushion) 

4     8 

0     7 

o    9 

I       O 

3     8 

II.IIU            .          .          . 

n    is 

in  si 

3  io| 

4     8 

7     7 

(rashers). 

O    12 

O      2 

O      2 

o     4 

o     8 

jx>rk 

6     8 

I      0 

0    IS 

i   15 

4     0 

I.,  mi   .  >i  pork 

14     o 

I      0 

4     8 

9     8 

l'i.  kl.-.l  pork 

2      0 

0      2 

O      2 

l    14 

RECIPES  FOR  COOKING 
-;-:;  I  i       PORK. 

CHAPTER    XXI 

1074.— BOLOGNA  SAUSAGES,  IMITATION  OF. 

(Fr. — Saucisses  a  la  Bologna.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  2  Ib.  of  lean  pork,  i  Ib.  of  finely- 
chopped  suet,  powdered  thyme,  mace,  pepper,  fat  bacon  cut  into 
strips,  ox  skins,  brine. 

Method. — Simmer  the  meat  very  gently  until  tender,  then  chop  it 
finely,  or  pass  it  2  or  3  times  through  a  mincing  machine.  Pound  it 
and  the  suet  until  smooth,  and  season  highly  with  pepper,  and  more 
sparingly  with  mace  and  thyme.  Press  the  mixture  into  the  prepared 
ox-skins,  and  in  filling  them  intersperse  strips  of  bacon.  Tie  the 
skins  in  8  or  9-inch  lengths,  let  them  remain  in  brine  for  9  or  10  days  (see 
various  recipes  for  salting),  then  hang  them  in  the  smoke  from  a  peat 
fire.  They  may  be  kept  for  a  considerable  time  in  a  cool  dry  place. 
Serve  cut  in  thin  slices. 

Time. — To  cure,  8  or  9  days.  To  smoke,  at  least  3  weeks.  Average 
Cost,  lod.  to  i  id.  per  Ib. 

1075.— CROQUETS  OF   PORK.    (Fr.— Croquettes    de 
Pore.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  lean  pork,  £  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
sage,  a  pinch  of  marjoram,  -|  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  |-  of  a 
pint  of  strong  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  lightly,  then 
stir  in  first  the  flour  and  afterwards  the  stock,  and  boil  gently  for  10 
or  12  minutes,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile.  Add  the  meat,  sage,  mar- 
joram, and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  stir  over  the  fire  until 
well  mixed,  and  turn  on  to  a  plate  to  cool.  Form  into  cork-shaped 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    PORK  633 

pieces,   coat  with  egg  and   breadcrumbs,   and   fry  in   hot  fat      (See 
"  Croquettes  of  Beef,"  also  "  Notes  on  Frying,"  page'  443.) 

Time. — To  fry,  4  to  5  minutes.      Average  Cost,  9d.     Sufficient    for   4 
persons.     Seasonable  in  winter. 

1076.— FILLET  AND  FILLETS  OF  PORK. 

Pork  is  very  rarely  cut  into  parts  to  which  the  terms  fillet  or  fillets 
could  be  applied,  small  legs  being  cooked  whole,  while  large  on 
cured  for  hams     A  fillet  would  consist  of  the  fleshy  part   « 
(see  "  Fillet  [of    Mutton]  to  Dress  "),  which  might  be  divided  into 
small  fillets,  or,  if  preferred,  small  fillets  could  be  cut  from  th 

t  part  of  the  neck,  just  as  noisettes  of  mutton  are  cut.     Any 
ions  given   for  cooking  pork  chops  and   tenderloins  would   be 
equally  applicable  to  these. 

1077.— GALANTINE  OF  PORK.      (Fr.—  Galantine  de 
Pore.) 

Ingredients.  —  A  belly  of  young  pork,  eitl  1  or  fresh 

ferably  the  former.  ]>i<  kl«-d   ;  :>cr,  stock,  or  wate?  with    the 

addition  of  2  <  arrot,  \  of  a  turnip,  a  bouquet-gami  (thyme. 

pai>lrv.  bay-leaf),  10  peppercorns,  g! 

Method.   -Lay  the  meat,  skin  side  d  Is  on  the  table,  season 

well  with  -.ml  cover  with  thin  slices  of  gherkin.      Roll 

tightly  as  pf^>ible.  tie  with  strom  nd  fasten  securely  in  a 

roll   111   a   strvpan   obtaining  sufficient  hot  stock,  or  hot 
•  •tables,  to  just  cover  it.  and  cook  g  nn  2\  to  3 

hours.     Press   i  Id,    then 

brush  <>\er  with  gla/c,  and  serve  garnished  with  parsl 

Time. — To  cook,  from  3$  to   4  hours.         Average    Cost,    8d.    per   Ib. 
Seasonable  in  the  win: 

1078.     GRISKIN  OR  SPINE  OF  PORK. 

Ingredients.     !  apple  sauce. 

Method.  process  pccul  pork, 

which  nerd  |  to  !><•  th<T 

thr  inr.it  iii  a  '  .  baste 

well,    and    bake    gently    until    th  /    cooked,    keeping 

well  e    the    p;  :    the   sediment   in    the    tin    (see 

pic  sauce.      If  liked,   a  h 

be  sprink: 

Time  Average  Cost,  od.  to  icxi.  p 


634  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1079.— LITTLE  RAISED    PORK   PIES.       (Fr— Petits 
Pates  de  Pore.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  lean  pork,  i  Ib.  of  household  flour,  8  ozs.  of 
lard,  -n-  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sage,  cayenne,  pepper  and  salt, 
£  a  pint  of  water,  i  small  onion. 

Method. — Prepare  the  stock,  meat  and  paste  as  directed  in  the  recipe 
for  "  Pork  Pie."  Divide  the  paste  into  small  pieces,  raise  in  a  round 
or  oval  form,  and  fill  with  meat.  Sprinkle  lightly  with  sage,  moisten 
with  stock,  and  put  on  the  covers.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven 
for  about  i  hour,  then  fill  up  with  stock,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i^  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  6d. 

1080.— LOIN  OF  PORK,  BAKED.        (Fr.— Longe  de 
Pore.) 

Ingredisnts. — 3  or  4  Ib.  loin  of  pork,  18  potatoes,  8  apples,  6  onions, 
all  peeled  and  quartered,  salad  oil,  gravy  (see  "  Gravies  "). 

Method. — Score  the  skin  in  narrow  lines,  and  brush  it  over  with  salad 
oil.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  40  minutes,  then  put  the 
potatoes,  apples  and  onions  into  the  tin  containing  the  meat,  and 
continue  to  cook  gently  from  i^  to  i£  hours  longer.  When  ready, 
arrange  the  vegetables  and  apples  on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  meat  in  the 
centre,  and  serve  the  gravy  separately. 

Time. — From  2  to  2.\  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  lod.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  during  the  winter  months. 

1081.— PIG'S  CHEEK. 

Ingredients. — A  pig's  cheek,  brown  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — If  the  cheek  has  been  cured  and  dried,  soak  it  for  5  or  6 
hours;  if  freshly  pickled,  simply  wash  it  in  2  or  3  waters.  Cover  with 
warm  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  gently  for  2,\  hours.  Strip 
off  the  skin,  cover  rather  thickly  with  l;ghtly-browned  breadcrumbs, 
and  bake  in  the  oven  for  \  an  hour.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — To  cook,  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  in 
winter. 

1082.— PIG'S  CHEEK,  TO  PICKLE. 

Ingredients. — 2  pig's  cheeks.  For  the  pickle:  4  ozs.  of  common  salt 
4  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  i  oz.  of  saltpetre,  \  an  oz.  of  ground  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  brains  and  snout,  and  chop  off  the  upper 
bone,  to  make  the  cheeks  a  good  shape.  Wash  well,  sprinkle  thickly 
with  salt,  let  them  lie  for  24  hours,  then  wash  and  drain  well.  Mix  the 
above  ingredients  together,  rub  them  well  into  the  cheeks,  and  turn 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  635 

and  rub  them  daily  for  4  weeks.     Hang  in  a  dry  cool  place  until  re- 
quired. 

Time. — 29  days.     Average  Cost,  ;d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

1083.— PIG'S  EARS.     (Fr.— Oreilles  de  Pore.) 

Ingredients. — 4  pig's  curs,  4  tablespoonfuls  oi  :ablc- 

spoonfuls  of  finely-chopped   veal,   j   tablespoonfuls  of  fmcU  chopped 

-poonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  J  a  teaspoonful  of  essence 

cit   anchovy,    i    egi:.  1   pepper,  |  a  pint   <>t    brown  sauce  (see 

uces  "),  ^  of  a  pint  of  stock,  frying- 1. 

Method. — Soak  the  ears  for  5  or  6  hours,  then  cover  with  stock  or 
mcr  gently  for  i\  hours.     Mix  the  breadcrumbs,  veal, 
nchovy -essence,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper 
•nd    slightly    moisten    with    beaten   egg.      Raise   tlu-   .-',. 
the  upper  side  ot  tin-  HU  'C  forcemeat  liL-htly  in,  and  seen; 

opening.      1  iv  in  hot  fat  until  lightly  browned,  then  drain  off  t! 
add  the  st<x  k.  i  o\  <  r  i  lotdy,  ami  on-k  eithn  on  the  stove  or  in  th« 

in  hour.     Drain  well,  ti  -auce  poured  o\  n  thmi. 

Time. — About  2  h«>ur>.      Average  Cost,  unt-t tain.     Sulllcient 
Seasonable  in  \MI 

1084.— PIG'S  EARS  WITH  TARTARE  SAUCE. 

(Fr. —  Oreilles  de  Cochon,    Sauce  Tartare.) 

Ingredients.     I'ig's  ears  pickled.  213),  T. 

saure     s»r    "  Sauces  "),  butter  or  trying-lat,  salad-oil,   finely-chopped 
shallot  and  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method,     lioil   tiie  ears  until    :  t    them   cool,   then  sprinkle 

lightly  \\ith  shallot  and  pai  with  pepper. 

hem  2  or  3  tablespoonluN 

liour.  turning  2  or  3  times,  and  basting  frequently.     1  ;1.  dip 

them  into  •  !  tr\  in  lioi  butter  or  fat  uir  ^nd  brown. 

par.itcly. 

Time.     To   irv.    j   or   5   minutes.     Average  Cost,  uncertain,   the  ears 
bring  seldom  sold  separately. 

1085.-  PIG'S  FEET  AND  EARS,  FRICASSEED. 

(Fr. — Fricassee  de  Pieds  de  Pore.) 

Ingredients.  pig's  ears,  a  slice  of  onion,  a  small  : 

:md.   \\hite  stock  or  milk.      For  the 

same     2  ->/s.  oi  butter,  il  o/s.  of  flour,  I  of  a  pint  »»i  white  stoil, 
and  ; 

Method.      \Va-h    t  MI   \\ith  white  stock  or 

milk.  !.  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 


636  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Simmer  until  tender,  then  cut  the  feet  into  neat  pieces,  and  the  ears 
into  strips.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook 
slowly  for  5  or  6  minutes,  then  add  the  stock  or  liquor  in  which  the  feet 
and  ears  were  cooked.  Boil  up,  season  to  taste,  simmer  gently  for 
10  minutes,  then  put  in  the  prepared  feet  and  ears,  and  when  thoroughly 
hot,  serve. 

Time. — About  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  uncertain.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

1086.— PIG'S   FEET     AND   EARS    IN   JELLY. 

(Fr. — Pieds  de  Pore  en  Aspic.) 

Ingredients. — 4  pig's  feet,  2  pig's  ears,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  £  a  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  fresh  sage, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Thoroughly  cleanse  the  feet  and  ears,  cover  them  with  cold 
water,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  bones  can  be  easily  withdrawn. 
Cut  the  meat  into  dice,  replace  it  in  the  liquor,  add  the  parsley,  sage, 
and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer  gently  for  15  minutes,  then 
turn  into  a  mould  or  basin,  and  put  aside  until  cold. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  uncertain.  Sufficient  for  I 
medium-sized  mould.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

1087.— PIG'S  FRY. 

Ingredients. — A  pig's  fry,  which  consists  of  the  heart,  lights,  liver  and 
sweetbread,  frying-fat,  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  sage. 

Method. — Wash  the  fry  well,  cover  it  with  water,  add  a  little  salt, 
and  cook  gently  for  \  an  hour.  Drain  and  dry  well,  cut  into  thin 
slices,  and  coat  them  lightly  with  flour  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  a  little  sage.  Fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned,  then  remove 
and  keep  hot.  Sprinkle  a  little  flour  on  the  bottom  of  the  frying-pan, 
let  it  brown,  then  pour  in  a  little  boiling  water,  and  add  seasoning  to 
taste.  Boil  up,  strain,  and  serve  round  the  fry,  or  separately. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d.  per  Ib.  ATow 
i  Ib.  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

1088.— PIG'S  FRY,  BAKED    WITH    HERBS. 

Ingredients. — A  pig's  fry,  potatoes,  peeled  and  sliced,  2  or  3  onions 
sliced,  powdered  sage,  salt  and  pepper,  flour. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  fry,  and  cut  it  into  thin  slices.  Place 
a  layer  at  the  bottom  of  a  greased  piedish,  add  a  sprinkling  of  sage, 
salt  and  pepper,  dredge  liberally  with  flour,  and  cover  first  with  slices 
of  onion,  and  afterwards  with  potato.  Repeat  until  all  the  materials 
are  used,  letting  potatoes  form  the  last  layer.  Three-quarters  fill  the 
dish  with  boiling  water,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake  gently 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  637 

from  2^  to  2\  hours.     About  £  an  hour  bci  rig  remove  the 

paper,  to  allow  the  potatoes  to  brown. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  2^-  to  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  fry,  from  6d.  to 
/d.  per  Ib.  Allow  i  Ib.  of  fry  and  2  Ib.  of  potatoes  for  3  or  4 persons. 
Seasonable  in  winter. 

1089.— PIG'S  HEAD,  BOILED.     (Fr.— Tete    de     Pore 
bouillie.) 

Ingredients. — A  pig's  head,  i  Ib.  of  common  salt,  i  oz.  of  saltpetre, 

pudding  (see  No.   1098.) 
Method. — Scald  and  da  1  thoroughly,  removing  the  hair. 

-nout  and  bruins.     Soak  in  strong  salt  and  water  for  ^4  1 
changing  the  water  2  or  3  t<  u  drain  and  dry  well.     Mix  the 

salt  and  saltpetre  together,  rub  it  well  into  every  part  of  the  head,  and 
repeat  this  process  daily  for  5  or  6  days.     Drain  the  head  from  the  brine, 
place  it  in  a  stewpan  containing  sufficient  warm  water  to  co\ 
bring  to  the  boil,  and  skim  well.      Simmer  gently  for  3^  hours,  then 

with  the  pease  pudding. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  3$  hours.  Average  Cost,  ;d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient-  for  7  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  in  wi 

1090.— PIG'S  HEAD,  COLLARED.  (Fr.— Tete  dePorc.) 

Ingredient^  's  head,  i  Ib.  of  common  salt,  i  oz.  of  saltpetre, 

cayenne,  salt   and   pep: 

Method.— Prepare   the   head   as   directed   in   the   preceding    P 
boil  it  gently  for  2  hours,  then  drain  from  the  liquor  and  remove  tin- 
bones,  flatten    the  head  as  much    as  possible,    sprinkle    it  liberally 
with  pepper  and  cayenne,  and  roll  up  :  I'ut  the  roll  into  a  doth, 

and  bind  securely.     Replace  it  in  the  stewpan,  boil  gently  for  2  hours 
longer,  press  until  cold,  and  use  as  required. 

Time.-  Al>«  >ut  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  jd.  to  8d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  in 
winter. 

1091.— PIG'S  KIDNEYS,  BROILED.  (Fr.— Rognons  de 
Pore  grilles.) 

Ingredients.  Pig's  kidneys,  salt  and  pepper,  powdered  sage,  salad- 
oil.  M  Imtter,  or  parsley  but: 

Method.— Split  tin-  lengthwise,  r  '.<>  skin,  and  p 

r  through  them  to  keep  them  flat     Brush  over  with  salad  oil. 
sprin!  and  pepper, and  broil  over  a  dear  fire,  cooking 

it  side  first.      Place  a  small  pat  of  mattre  cChdtel  butter  in  the 
centre  of  each  half,  and  serve  a  possible. 

Time.— 5  to  7  minutes,  accord  r  .\     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d. 


638  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1092.— PIG'S  KIDNEYS,  FRIED.      (Fr.— Rognons  de 
Pore  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pig's  kidneys,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  shallots  or  i  small 
onion  finely -chopped,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  flour, 
salt  and  pepper,  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup. 

Method. — Remove  the  skins,  and  cut  the  kidneys  across  into  rather 
thin  slices.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  shallots  until  lightly 
browned,  then  put  in  the  kidney,  and  add  the  parsley  and  a  good 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Toss  over  the  fire  for  3  or  4  minutes, 
then  turn  on  to  a  hot  dish.  Sprinkle  a  little  flour  on  the  bottom  of 
the  pan,  let  it  brown,  then  add  a  little  boiling  stock  or  water  and  season- 
ing to  taste.  Boil  up,  pour  over  or  round  the  kidney,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  fry,  3  or  4  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  each. 

1093.— PIG'S    PETTITOES,    FRIED.     (Fr.— Pieds   de 
Pore  frits.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  8  sucking  pigs'  feet,  frying-batter  (see  No.  213), 
stock,  frying-fat,  parsley. 

Method. — Wash  the  pettitoes  thoroughly,  then  cover  them  with  stock 
or  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  \  an  hour. 
Split  them  open,  dip  them  into  the  batter,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely 
browned.  Drain,  and  serve  garnished  with  crisply-fried  parsley. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  being  seldom  sold 
separately. 

1094.— PIG'S  PETTITOES,  STEWED.     (Fr.— Pieds  de 
Pore  en  ragout.) 

Ingredients. — 8  sucking-pigs'  feet,  the  heart  and  liver  of  the  pig, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  6 
peppercorns,  a  small  blade  of  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  stock. 

Method. — Wash  the  liver,  heart  and  pettitoes,  cover  with  stock, 
add  the  peppercorns  and  mace,  and  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes. 
Take  out  the  heart  and  liver  and  chop  them  finely,  the  pettitoes  being 
meanwhile  allowed  to  cook  slowly  until  quite  tender.  Heat  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  gently  for  5  minutes,  then 
strain  and  add  -\  a  pint  of  stock.  Stir  until  boiling,  season  to  taste, 
put  in  the  mince  and  pettitoes,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  stir  in  the 
cream.  Serve  the  mince  on  a  hot  dish  with  the  feet  halved  and  laid 
on  the  top  of  it. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  being  seldom 
sold  separately.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK 
1095.— PIG'S  TONGUES.     (Fr.—  Langues  de  Pore.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  pigs'  tongues.     For  the  pickle  :  4  ozs.  of  common 
salt,  2  ozs.  of  bay  salt,  i  oz.  of  moist  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  salt] >• 

Method. — Trim  the  roots  of  the  tongues,  rub  them  well  with  -alt. 
and  let  them  lie  for  24  hours.     Mix  the  above  ingredients  t<> 
rub  the  mixture  \vcll  into  the  tongues,  and  repeat  this  process  daily 
for  9  or  10  days,     \Yhen  ready,  the  tonu  II  washed, 

and  cooked  according  to  directions  given  for  dressing  sheep's  ton 

Time. — To   pickle,   9   or    10   days.     Average    Cost,    uncertain,    bt  in- 
seldom  sold  separately. 

1096. —PORK,  BAKED.      (Fr.— Pore  roti  au  Four.) 

Ingredients.  —  Leg  or  loin  of  pork,  2  onions,  2  carrots,  i  small  turnip, 

2  strips  ot  doz.  button  onions,  i  teaspoontul  of  mixed  herbs, 

of  butter,  2  or  3  ozs.  of  dripping,  \  a  pint  of  gravy,  apple  sauce 

and  pcpi 
Method.     S<:ore  the  pork  in  narrow  lines.     Slice  all   the   \ 

•  the  button  onions,  pla<  e  tlp-m  in  a  baking-tin,  sprinkle  with 
s.ilt  and  prppi-r.  and  add  the  herb-*  and  dripping.  Lay  the  m«  at  <>n  tin- 
top,  and  cook  in  a  mo'  itlv  »« 

n  hour  IH  :  til  onion*. 

and  fry  them  brown  in  hot   butter.      Serve  the  nu.<;   <>n  a  In  : 
garnish  with  the  onions,  and  send  the  gravy  to  table  in   a  sauce-boat. 
ssary,  t!  <>m  the  sediment  in  the  meat  tin. 

Time.     Allow   20  min  Ib.      Average  Cost,  oxl.   to    lod. 

j)er  Ib.      Seasonable  in  the  winter. 

1097.— PORK  AND  BEANS. 

(Fr. — Pore  Sale  aux   Haricots   blanc.) 

Ingredients.     A  should-  :\«  pork  p  nion.  i  carrot,  ±  of 

a  turnip,  m  peppercorns,  Wind-  ley  sauce  (see  No.  206.) 

Method.      1'ul    th--   pork   in1  amnm   - 

•  tables  and  peppercorns, 

and  boil  .^enth  t  j  hours.     Half  an  hour  before  the  pork  will 

ntlv  from 
25   to  30  minutes,    then   drain    well,   and   pom 

dishes. 

Time.      I  >  2\   hours,  accon  Average  Cost,   lod. 

per  Ib.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  in  th< 

1098.     PORK,  BOILED,  AND  PEASE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients.     I  eg   or  other  joint   of  salted  or  pickled  pork,  i  good 

M,   i    carrot,  £  a  turni] 


640  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

12  peppercorns.  For  the  pudding  :  i  quart  of  split  peas,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Soak  the  peas  for  12  hours.  Place  the  pork  in  a  boiling 
pot,  cover  it  with  warm  water,  unless  very  salt,  in  which  case  use  cold 
water  (see  "Notes  on  Boiling  Meat,"  p.  429).  Bring  to  the  boil,  skim 
well,  boil  for  10  minutes,  add  the  onion,  carrot,  turnip  and  celery,  all 
cut  into  thick  slices,  put  in  the  peppercorns,  and  simmer  gently  until 
done.  Boil  the  parsnips  and  cabbage  separately  ;  divide  the  former 
lengthwise  into  4  pieces,  and  press  the  latter  well,  season  it  with  pepper, 
and  cut  it  into  small  squares.  Serve  the  pork  in  a  hot  dish,  garnished 
with  the  parsnips  and  cabbage.  The  liquor  in  which  pork  is  cooked 
may  be  converted  into  good  peasoup. 

There  are  two  methods  of  making  the  pease  pudding.  By  the  first 
method,  the  peas  are  drained  from  the  water  in  which  they  were  soaked, 
tied  in  a  cloth,  and  cooked  for  about  i£  hours  in  the  boiling-pot,  with 
the  pork.  They  are  then  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  mixed  with  the 
butter  and  yolks  of  eggs,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  replaced  in  the 
cloth,  and  boiled  with  the  pork  for  about  40  minutes  longer.  The 
second  method  is  probably  the  better  one.  After  being  drained  from 
the  water  in  which  they  were  soaked,  the  peas  are  placed,  with  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  salt,  in  a  stewpan,  which  they  about  half  fill,  and  covered 
with  cold  water,  which  must  be  replaced  as  it  boils  away.  Cook  the 
peas  gently  for  about  2  hours,  or  till  they  are  quite  soft,  then  rub 
them  through  a  fine  sieve,  add  the  butter,  yolks  of  eggs,  and  season 
to  taste.  Press  the  puree  into  a  well-buttered  mould  or  basin,  and 
either  steam  or  bake  for  about  40  minutes. 

Time. — Allow  25  minutes  to  each  Ib.  of  pork.  Average  Cost,  the  pork 
9d.  per  Ib.,  the  pudding  pd. 

1099.— PORK,  LEG  OF,  ROASTED.     (Fr.— Gigot  de 
Pore  roti.) 

Ingredients. — A  leg  of  pork,  onion  forcemeat,  No.  404,  salad-oil 
\  a  pint  of  gravy,  dripping  for  basting,  apple  sauce  (see  No  316). 

Method. — Remove  the  bones  down  to  the  knuckle  bone,  break  them 
into  smaller  pieces,  and  simmer  them  for  gravy.  Make  the  forcemeat 
as  directed,  press  it  lightly  inside  the  leg,  and  secure  the  opening. 
Score  the  skin  in  narrow  strips,  brush  over  with  salad-oil,  and  either 
roast  it  before  a  clear  fire,  or  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  (see  "  Notes  on 
Roasting,"  p.  428).  Serve  the  gravy  and  apple  sauce  in  sauce-boats. 

Time. — Allow  25  minutes  to  each  Ib.  of  meat.  Average  Cost,  9d. 
per  Ib. 

i  loo.— PORK  CHEESE. 

Ingredients. — i   Ib.   of  cold  roast  pork,   i    dessertspoonful  of  finely- 


BACON    AND    HAM 


f am.      ii.    Side 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  (.41 

chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sage,  ^  of  a  tca- 
:ulof  mix  .    \   a  teaspoonful  -  on-rind,  j-  of  a 

•onful   of   j; rated    nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  J  a  pint  of  gravy   or 

ntly  strong  to  form  a  jelly  when  cold. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  dice,  using  more  or  less  of  the  fat,  accord- 
ing to  taste.  Add  to  it  the  parsley,  sage,  herbs,  lemon-rind,  nutmeg, 
and  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  mix  well  to. 

11  up  with  gravy,  and  bake  about  i|  hours 
in  a  moderate  oven.     When  cold,  turn  out  of  the  mould  and  garnish 

Time. — About  i  \  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  jJ.  in  addition  to  the  stock. 
Sufficient  for  5  persons. 

ENGLISH  MODE  ot  -i>  INDIA*  Pic.-Sric KING.— Wild  boar  hunting  u  a  sport  of  great 

v.  affording  the  highest  interest  and  <  *  1  he  kings  of  Assyria  are  depicted  on  the 

the  Palace  of  Nineveh  engaged  in  this  royal  pastime,     the  Greeks  were  passion- 
iched  to  this  sport,  and  although  the  Romans  do  not  appear  to  have  been  addicted  to  hunting. 
,r  nghts  formed  part  of  their  gladiatorial  shows  in  the  amphitheatre.      In  l 
and   Germany,    from   early   times,   the  boar  hunt  was  a  favourite  pastime  of    r 
nobility.    The  hunter  was  armed  only  with  a  boar-spear,  about  four  feet  in  length,  the  ash  ^ 
tected  with  plates  of  steel,  and  terminating  in  a  long  narrow,  and  very  sharp  blade,  and  a  i 
hanc-r.     Thus  equipped  the  hunter  encountered  his  foe  face  to  face,  as  the  boar,  v 
pressed  bead,  and  flaming  eyes,  charged  the!  .«  tusks.     But,  expert  as  the  ! 

)>oar  would  sometimes  siexe  the  spear  in  his  formidiNe  teeth  and  crush  it  like  ; 
or,  coming  full  tilt 
with  his  sharp  tusks 
time  to  draw  and  ui 

and  doubling  on  his  opponent,  attack  him  in  the  rear.     Prom  his  speed/great  weight,  _ 
the  wild  boar  it  always  a  dangerous  antagonist,  and  great  courage,  coolness  and  ., 
requisite  on  the  part  of  the  hunter.     Boar  hunting  has  been  for  some  centuries  obsolete  in  Britain. 
on  In  the  extensive  forests  of  Germany  and  Austria.     The  Continental  sporty- 
man  ri!  ^  in  a  cavalcade  with  music  and  boar-dogs.    The  boar-dog  is  a  sraJg^^^H 
trained  to  attack  the  boar,  h^f""*"!  him  until  be  u  wearied  out.  when  toe  huntsman 


•i  the  boar  with  hh  lance  In  India,  eipedillv  In  Kencal.  the  sport  is  engaged 
otncers  and  other  European  sportsmen,  and  is  of  a  very  exciting  character,  as  the  boar 
s  the  cane-brakes  and  jungle,  is  a  formidable  foe.  The  hunters  mounted  on  small. 


lorses.  and  armed  only  with  long  lances,  ride  at  early  daybreak  to  the  skirts  of  the  jungle,' 
ing  sent  in  their  attendants  to  beat  the  cover,  wait  until  their  tusked  antagonist  comes  crash- 


.ediatety  given,  and  he  b  overtaken  and  t. 
The  boar,  however,  frequently  turns  to  bay,  with  the  result  that  the  hunters  and  their 

h   : :  .  .  '••   v.    s;  .  :•    ! 

iioi.— PORK  CUTLETS    OR  CHOPS.  (/<>.-C6telettes 
de  Pore.) 

Ingredients. — 6  or  ;  ozs.  of  buticr.  i  1 

-  of  liquid  car 

Method. 

•  t  any  !><•  trimmings,  anil  the  onion  into  a 

.it  the  butter  in  a  .11, and  fry 

o  cook  tl  In  the  m< 

h  im- 
rutlcts  in  a  close 


642  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

on  a  potato  border,  pour  the  sauce  (which  must  be  thick  enough  to 
coat  the  cutlets)  over  them,  and  serve  the  tomato  or  apple  sauce 
separately. 

Time. — To  fry  the  chops,  from  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod. 
per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1 102.— PORK    CUTLETS,    GRILLED.        (Fr.— Cote- 
lettes  de  Pore  grillees  aux  Cornichons.) 

Ingredients. — 7  or  8  lean  cutlets  cut  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck, 
2\  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  \  a  pint  of  gravy  or  stock,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  gherkins,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Trim  off  nearly  all  the  fat,  and  make  the  cutlets  a  good 
uniform  shape.  Season  both  sides  of  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip 
them  in  warm  butter,  coat  carefully  with  breadcrumbs,  and  grill  over 
a  clear  fire  for  20  minutes,  turning  them  3  or  4  times.  Pour  the  re- 
mainder of  the  butter  into  a  small  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  over  the 
fire  for  2  or  3  minutes,  put  in  the  gravy  and  vinegar,  boil  up,  season 
to  taste,  and  add  the  gherkins.  Arrange  the  cutlets  in  a  close  circle 
on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Time. — 20  minutes,  to  grill  the  cutlets.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1103.— PORK  CUTLETS  WITH  ROBERT  SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Pore  a  la  Robert.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  cutlets  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  -£  a  pint 
of  Robert  sauce  (see  No.  272).  For  the  marinade  or  brine  :  2  or  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i  teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  sage,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  cutlets  neatly,  leaving  about  £  an  inch  of  fat  round 
each  one.  Place  them  on  a  dish,  pour  over  the  marinade,  and  let  them 
remain  in  it  for  i  hour,  turning  them  frequently.  Drain  well,  and  broil 
over  a  clear  fire  for  about  20  minutes.  Or,  if  preferred,  fry  the  cutlets 
in  a  little  hot  butter,  in  a  saute-pan.  Arrange  them  in  a  close  circle 
on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  Robert  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons. 

1104.— PORK    CUTLETS    WITH    SOUBISE    SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Pore  a  la  Soubise.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  cutlets  from  the  best  end  of  the  neck,  ^  a  pint 
of  thick  Soubise  sauce,  \  of  a  pint  of  demi-glace  sauce  (see  No.  242), 
marinade  as  in  preceding  recipe,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  and  marinade  the  cutlets  as  directed  in  the  pre- 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  643 

ceding  recipe,  and  either  grill  them  from  15  to  18  minutes  over  a  clear 
fire,  or  fry  them  for  the  same  length  of  time  in  hot  butter,  in  a  saute- 
or  frying-pan.  Dish  them  in  a  circle,  serve  the  Soubise  sauce  in  the 
centre,  and  pour  the  demi-glace  sauce  round  the  base  of  the  dish. 

Time. — To  fry  or  grill,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib. 
Su  flic  lent  for  6  or  7  persons. 

1 105. -PORK   CUTLETS,    OR   CHOPS.      (Fr.— Cote- 
lettes  de  Pore  grillees  aux  Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — 2\  Ib.  of  loin  or  neck  of  pork,  \  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce 

>o.  281),  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  greater  part  of  the  fat,  divide  the  meat  into 

cutlets,  and  trim  them  into  a  good  shape.     Brush  over  with  salad-oil 

or  butter,  sprinkle  both  sides  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  grill  the  cutlets 

over  a  clear  fire  for  about  15  minutes,  turning  them  3  or  4  times.     Ar- 

iu.it ly  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  hot  sauce  round,  and  S(  : 
Time. — To  grill   the  cutlets,  about  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,   lod. 
per  Ib.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

H06.-PORK   CUTLETS,    OR   CHOPS.      (Fr.— Cote- 
lettes  de  Pore  Panees.) 

Ingredients.—  jUb.  of  loin  or  neck  of  pork,  ijozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoon- 
ful  of  powdered  sage,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  tomato  sauce 
No  jSi  or  piquantc  sauce  265. 

Method.     Remove  nearly  all  the  fat  from  the  cutlets,  and  trim  them 

idd  to  it  the  sage  and  a  liberal  s«  -asmiin^ 

i  the  mixture,  and  coat  carefully 

with  breadcrumbs.      He.it  the  butter  in  a  S  and  fry  the  i 

gently  for  about  20  minutes,  turning  them  fn-.jut-mly.     Arrange  on  a 

M  (1  potato,  pour  the  sauce  round,  and  ser 

Time.— About  20  minutes  to  cook  the  cutlets.  Average  Cost,  icxl. 
]>  r  11).  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  pers< 

1107.     PORK   CUTLETS,  HASH  OF.     (/<>.- Hachisde 
Pore). 

Ingredients.     The   P  m  -!d  loin  of  pork  ;   to  6  or  7  cm  let* 

allow  i  medium ->i/ed  Spanish  onion  coarsely-chopped,  I  oz.  of  butter, 

poonful  <  r,   i   teaspoonful  of 

in.idf  mustard,  :  »f  good  gravy,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.      Ihvide  the  loin  in  !  trim  away  the  greater 

p.irt  of  tli--  t.it.      M«  1;    ;  m,  put   in  the 

rutlels  fry  them  iur  .   browned,  th- 

•«»   tin-  butler  iu    the   pin.   fry  until    lh<v 
:ood  brown  colour,  sprink!  .M>n  with  salt 


644  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

and  pepper,  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes  longer  to  lightly  brown  the 
flour.  Now  add  the  stock,  vinegar,  and  mustard,  boil  up  and  pour  the 
mixture  over  the  cutlets,  which  must  be  previously  arranged  in  a  close 
circle  on  a  hot  dish. 

Time. — About  5  minutes,  to  fry  the  cutlets.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 
to  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

1108.— PORK,  HASHED.       (Fr.— Ragout  de  Pore.) 

Ingredients.— i  Ib.  of  either  cold  roast  or  boiled  pork,  i^  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  Worcester  sauce,  i  dessertspoonful  of  ketchup, 
i  small  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice, 
cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  slices,  and  sprinkle  them  with  salt 
and  a  very  little  cayenne.  Put  the  butter,  Worcester  sauce,  ketchup, 
lemon-juice  and  mustard  into  a  stewpan,  and,  when  quite  hot,  add  the 
slices  of  meat,  and  allow  them  to  remain  for  15  or  20  minutes,  to  become 
thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  flavour  of  the  sauce.  Shake  the  stew- 
pan,  or  stir  the  contents  occasionally,  but  on  no  account  allow  the  sauce 
to  boil. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4 
or  5  persons. 

1109.— PORK,  HASHED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  pork,  \  a  pint  of  gravy  or  stock, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
%  of  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  2  cloves,  salt  and  pepper,  2  onions. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  slices,  sprinkle  them  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  cut  the  onions  into  thin  slices.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly  browned,  sprinkle  in  the  flour, 
stir  and  cook  these  over  the  fire  for  about  5  minutes,  then  add  the  stock, 
vinegar,  cloves,  mace,  and  necessary  seasoning,  and  stir  until  boiling. 
Simmer  for  10  minutes  to  thoroughly  cook  the  flour,  then  draw  the  stew- 
pan to  the  side  of  the  stove,  put  in  the  slices  of  meat,  cover  closely, 
and  let  them  remain  for  about  \  an  hour.  Shake  the  stewpan  occasion- 
ally or  stir  the  contents,  which  must  be  kept  hot  but  not  allowed  to 
boil.  Arrange  the  slices  of  meat  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  and  strain  the 
sauce  over  them.  The  dish  may  be  garnished  with  sippets  of  toast, 
or,  if  preferred,  the  hash  may  be  served  with  a  border  of  mashed 
potato. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  5d.  Suffi- 
cient for  4  or  5  persons. 

1 1  io.— PORK  KIDNEY,  FRITTERS  OF.   (Fr.— Fritots 
de  Rognons.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pig's  kidneys,  pig's  caul,  £  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce, . 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  645 

2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  oz.  of  butter,  frying-fat.  For  the  batter  :  2  ozs. 
of  flour,  \  a  gill  of  tepid  water,  i  tablcspoonful  of  salad-oil  or  warm 
butter,  the  white  of  i  egg,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  skins  and  cores,  and  cut  the  kidneys  into  dice. 
Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallot  slightly,  add  the  parsley 
and  kidneys,  cook  gently  for  5  minutes,  then  drain  away  the  butter, 
and,  if  preferred,  use  it  instead  of  salad-oil  for  the  batter.  Make  the 
brown  sauce  as  directed,  No.  233,  cool  slightly,  then  pour  it  on  to  the 
yolks  of  eggs,  stirring  all  the  time.  Have  this  sauce  ready  to  add  to 
the  kidneys,  pour  it  over  them,  season  to  taste,  stir  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  unt'l  the  yolks  thicken,  then  turn  on  to  a  plate  to  cool.  Meanwhile, 
wash  the  caul  in  salt  and  water,  dry  well,  and  cut  into  3-inch  sq 
Make  a  smooth  batter  of  the  flour,  water,  salt,  and  salad-oil  or  butter, 
then  add  the  white  of  c  whipped.  When  the  mixture  is  cold 

divide  it  into  small  portions,  enclose  them  in  the  pieces  of  caul,  dip 
them  into  the  batter,  and  fry  until  brown  in  hot  fat. 

Time. —  \\  hours.     Average    Cost,    is.    6d.    to    is.  pd.      Sufficient  for 
4  persons. 

r  other  methods  of  cooking  kidney,  sec  recipes  for  veal,  beef  and 

lamb. 

ii  1 1. —PORK,  LOIN  OF,  GERMAN  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Longe  de  Pore  a  rAllemande.) 

Ingredients.— A  loin  of  pork,  *  a  pint  of  malt  vinegar,  i  large  Spanish 
onion  sliced,  10  fresh  sage  to  juniper  berries,  24  peppercorns, 

cloves,  i   taMcspoonfui  of  salt,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  thyme, 
isil,  or  other  herbs  preferred. 
Method. —  Reniovr  and  any  superfluous  fat.  and  place  the 

inc.it  in  rthcnwarc  dish.    Add  all  the  ingredients  enumerated 

•  meat  remain  in  the  man: 

and  bating  it  daily.      When  re.idy.  put  both  meat  and  marinade  into 

ic  bakm:;-«lisli.  .uM    \  a  pint  of  boiling  ; id  cook 

•tly  in  th<  hours,  basting  frequently.      Strain 

the  i  over  the  .uiinder 

tcly. 

Time. — To  co-  Average  Cost,    nxl.   per   lb. 

Sufficient  t«>r  c>  (>r  .     Seasonable  in  the  winter. 

1 1 12.— PORK,  LOIN  OF,  STUFFED.    (Fr.— Longe  de 
Pore  Farcie.) 

Ingredient  .  ;i    of   pork.    oni<m    stuffing.    No.    404,    gravy    (see 

Method.     S>  <>!••  the  ^kin    in  nai: 

• 


646         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

After  putting  in  the  stuffing  secure  the  opening,  wrap  the  loin  in  a 
greased  paper,  and  roast  before  a  clear  fire,  or  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven  for  about  2  hours.  Baste  frequently,  and  £  an  hour  before  serving 
remove  the  paper  to  allow  the  crackling  to  brown.  Serve  the  gravy 
and  apple  sauce  separately. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  lod.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  in  the  winter. 

Note. — The  sage  and  onion  stuffing  may  be  baked  and  served  separately 
or  altogether  omitted. 

1113.— PORK,  LOIN  OF,  SAVOURY.  (Fr.— Longe  de 
Pore,  Savoureux.) 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  Ib.  of  loin  of  pork,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  onion,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sage,  \  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  i  saltspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Apple 
sauce,  brown  gravy. 

Method. — Score  the  pork  in  narrow  lines,  mix  the  onion,  sage,  salt, 
mustard  and  pepper  together,  and  rub  the  mixture  well  into  the  meat. 
Wrap  the  joint  in  well-greased  paper,  and  bake  in  front  of  a  clear  fire 
for  about  2  hours,  basting  frequently.  Half  an  hour  before  serving 
remove  the  paper,  in  order  that  the  crackling  may  become  crisp  and 
brown.  Serve  the  apple  sauce  and  gravy  separately. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  pd.  to  icd.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  in  the  winter. 

1114.— PORK,  MINCED. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  pork,  2  onions  finely-chopped, 
2  apples  coarsely-chopped,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour, 
i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  \  of  a  pint  of  stock,  dry  mustard,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  very  small  dice,  and,  unless  gravy  or 
good  stock  is  at  hand,  boil  the  bones  and  trimmings  for  at  least  i  hour, 
then  strain  and  boil  rapidly  until  reduced  to  f  of  a  pint.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly  browned,  then  add  the 
apple,  and  fry  until  tender,  but  not  broken.  Sprinkle  in  the  flour 
ahd  a  good  pinch  of  mustard,  stir  and  cook  gently  for  3  or  4  minutes, 
then  add  the  stock,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season  to  taste,  boil  gently 
for  5  minutes,  then  put  in  the  meat,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  allow  the 
stewpan  to  stand  for  about  £  an  hour  where  the  contents  will  remain 
Just  below  simmering  point.  Serve  in  a  border  of  rice,  or  mashed  potato, 
or  garnished  with  sippets  of  toasted  bread. 

Time. — To  re-heat  the  meat,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to 
is,  3d,  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  647 

1115.— PORK  MOULD. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cold  roast  pork,  2  tablcspoonfuls  of  mashed 
potato,  i  teaspoonful  of  parboiled  and  finely-chopped  onion,  £  of  a 
pint  of  sour  cream  or  milk  (about),  salt  and  pepper,  brown  breadcrumbs, 
\  a  pint  of  gravy. 

Method.— Remove  the  skin  and  greater  part  of  the  fat  from  the  meat, 
chop  it  finely,  and  add  to  it  the  onion.  Season  highly  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  work  in  sufficient  sour  cream  or  milk  to  bind  the  mixture 
together.  Coat  a  well-buttered  mould  or  pic-dish  thickly  with  brown 
breadcrumbs,  put  in  the  mixture,  and  bake  for  about  J  of  an  hour 
in  a  moderate  oven.  The  mixture  may  also  be  formed  into  small 
cakes,  coated  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fried.  The  gravy  may 
be  made  from  the  bones  and  trimmings  of  the  meat,  and  should  bo 
served  separately. 

Time.— To  cook,  about  $  of  an  hour.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

1 1 16.— PORK  PIE. 

Ingredients. — \\  Ib.  of  lean  pork,  i  Ib.  of  household  flour,  6  ozs.  of 
lard,  i  small  onion,  \  of  a  pint  of  water,  cayenne,  pepper  and  salt. 
Method.  -Cut  the  moat  into  dice,  and  season  it  well  with  salt  and 

the  bones  in  a  stewpan,  add  tin-  onion,  salt  and  p. 

covrr  with  cold  water,  and  simmer  for  at  least  2  hours  to  extract  the 
•vlatine,  in  order  that  the  gravy,  when  cold,  may  be  a  linn  jelly.  1'ut 
tin-  tloar  i  ;e  basin,  and  add  to  it  a  good  pinch  of 

tlu'  lard  and  water  together  for  5  minutes,  then  add  it  to  the  Hour, 
stirring  it    thoroughly    until   cool    enough    to   be   kne.-d>  d.        ! 
until  smooth,  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  let  the  b  ..1  near  t 

for  al  hour.     Throughout  the  whole  process  the  paste  must 

p|    warm,  otherwise   n: 

overheating  must  also  be  avoided,  tor  when   tl.  is  too  soft  it   is 

unable  to  support  its  o\sn  \\ei-ht.     At  the  en.l  ot  this  tun. 

about  \  for  t  r  into 

around,  or  o\  al  form,  as  may  br  {  If  an  ii. 

liuils  .my  difficulty  in  raising  the  pie  by  hand  alone. 
i  in  the  centre  of  the  paste,  and  the  paste  moul< 
the  lower  part  of  the  pic  has  bc<  :   to  the  necessary  - 

thinn-  jiunt   work  may  be  made  mm  by  putting  in 

some  of  the  meat,  and  p:  firmly  down  to  support  r  part 

of  the  !i  J  <>r  ; 

v.  the  n  n 
added  aft  •  i  the  p:--  is  Kik--d  and  still  hot.     Three  or  four  folds  of  gi< 

id  be  pin:. 

•  .min:;  loo  brown.      Th-  hours 

in  a  moderate  o\  «'ii ,  am !  ed  by  brushing 


648  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

it  over  with  yolk  of  egg  when  about  £•  baked.     Slices  of  hard  boiled 
egg  are  often  added  with  the  meat. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  Sd. 
Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized  pie. 

1117.— POTTED  HAM. 

Ingredients. — To  2  Ib.  of  lean  ham  allow  \  a  Ib.  of  fat,  \  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  ground  mace,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg,  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper,  |  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  clarified  butter. 

Method. — Pass  the  ham  2  or  3  times  through  a  mincing  machine, 
or  chop  it  finely,  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar  with  the  seasoning,  and  rub 
it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  it  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  cover  with  a 
buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  £  of  an  hour. 
When  done,  press  into  small  pots,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  quite  cold  cover 
with  clarified  butter. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  £  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  9d. 

IMPORTANCE  OF  THE  BOAR'S  HEAD. — In  ancient  times  the  boar's  head  formed  the  most  important 
dish,  and  on  Christmas  Day  was  invariably  the  first  placed  upon  the  table,  its  entrance  into  the  hall 
being  preceded  by  a  body  of  servitors,  a  flourish  of  trumpets,  and  other  marks  of  distinction.  The 
dish  itself  was  borne  by  the  individual  next  in  rank  to  the  lord  of  the  feast.  The  custom  of  serving 
a  boar's  head  on  a  silver  platter  on  Christmas  Day  is  still  observed  at  some  colleges  and  Inns  of 
Court.  So  highly  was  the  grizzly  boar's  head  regarded  in  the  Middle  Ages  that  it  passed  into  the 
cognizance  of  some  of  the  noblest  families  in  the  realm  ;  thus  it  was  not  only  the  crest  of  the  Nevilles 
and  Warwicks  with  their  collateral  houses,  but  it  was  the  cognizance  of  Richard  III.  It  was  also  a 
favourite  sign  for  taverns.  The  Boar's  Head  which  formerly  stood  in  Eastcheap  will  be  familiar 
to  every  reader  of  Shakespeare  as  the  resort  of  the  Prince  of  Wales,  Poins,  and  his  companions,  and 
the  residence  of  Falstaff,  and  his  knaves  Bardolph,  Pistol  and  Nym.  Its  sign  of  the  boar's  head  was 
carved  in  stone  over  the  entrance ;  a  smaller  one,  fashioned  in  wood,  was  placed  on  each  side  of  the 
doorway. 

Many  traditions  and  deeds  of  savage  vengeance  are  recorded  in  connexion  with  this  grim  trophy 
of  the  chase  in  all  parts  of  Europe. 

1 1 18.— SAUSAGES,  TO  BOIL. 

Ingredients. — Sausages. 

Method. — Prick  the  sausages  with  a  fork,  throw  them  into  boiling 
water,  and  cook  gently  for  15  minutes.  Serve  on  buttered  toast  or 
mashed  potato.  Or,  let  them  cool  slightly,  remove  the  skins,  coat 
with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  butter  or  fat  until  crisp  and 
brown. 

Time. — To  boil,  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  per  Ib. 

1119.— SAUSAGES,  TO  FRY. 

Ingredients. — Sausages,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Prick  the  sausages  well  with  a  fork,  as  this  prevents  the 
skins  breaking.  Put  the  sausages  into  a  frying-pan  containing  a 
little  hot  fat,  and  fry  gently,  turning  2  or  3  times,  so  as  to  brown  them 
equally.  Serve  on  mashed  potato  or  toasted  bread. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  per  Ib. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  649 

1 120.— SAVOURY  LIVER. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  pig's  liver,  i  Ib.  of  potatoes,  £  a  Ib.  of  onions, 
|  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sage,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  |  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  \  a  pint  of  water,  apple  sance  (see  No.  3  i 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  liver,  cut  it  into  rather  thick  slices,  cut 
the  onions  into  small  dice,  and  slice  the  potatoes.  Place  a  layer  of 
potato  at  the  bottom  of  a  greased  pie-dish,  cover  with  slices  of  liver, 
add  a  good  sprinkling  of  onion,  and  season  well  with  salt  and  p. 

.t  until  all  the  materials  are  used,  letting  potato  form  the  top 
Pour  in  the  water,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake  slowly 
for  2  hours.     Towards  the  end,  remove  the  paper  to  allow  the  potatoes 
to  brown.     Serve  with  apple  sauce. 

Time.— About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  rod.  to  is.,  exclusive  of  the  apple 
.     Sufficient  lor  5  or  6  pcrs«> 

1 121. —SAVOURY  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  fine  oatmeal,  £  a  Ib.  of  stale  bread,  |  a  Ib.  of 

.  2  large  onions,  i  teaspooafu  !  of  a  teas; 

ful  of  ;  »onful  of  powdered  sage,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of 

!  mixed  herbs,  2  Cggs. 
Method.— Soak  the  r  for  $  an  hour,  then  drain 

»rbcd  liquid,  and  beat  out  the  lumps  with  a  fork.     Boil  the 

i  in  salt  and  water  for  J  an  hour,  then  chop  them  coarsely.     Mix 

ulding  the  beaten  eggs  i  much  dripping 

in  a  Yorkshire  pudding  tin  as  will  form  a  put  in  the 

mixtu:  h  a  knife,  and  bake  for  about  i  hour  in  a 

done,  cut  into  squares,  and  serve  with  good 

>rk,  duck  or  goos- 

lire,  tliis  pudding.  hat  takes  its 

from  the  county,  is  ,  and  before  the  r. 

Time. —  1  •.•>out  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  iod.,  for  this  quantity. 

Sufficient  for  S  persons. 

1122.— SAVOURY  TENDERLOIN  OF  PORK. 

Ingredients.-  6  pork  chops,  prcf  otn  the  lean  part  under  the 

shoulder,   known  (according  to   locality)  as    spare  rib,  tender!. 

2    Ib.  of  Spanish  onions,  flour,  sage,  powdered  mix 
salt  and  : 

Method.     M  i  x  together  a  small  teaspoonful  ofsalt,anda$ofateaspoon- 

easoning,  the  onions 

cut  iiv  :it  of  cold  water  into  a  fireproof  stew-jar,  cover 

with  a  md  cook  gently  on  the  stove  or  in  the 

occasionally.     When  the  onions  arc 

(at  has  been 
Mix  to:;i-ther  .1  i  iful  each  of  sage,  herbs, 


650  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

and  salt,  and  4-  the  quantity  of  pepper,  sprinkle  £  this  seasoning  on  the 
chops  before  putting  them  in  the  oven,  cook  gently  for  15  minutes, 
then  turn  them,  sprinkle  on  the  remainder  of  the  seasoning,  and  cook 
for  15  minutes  longer.  Drain  off  every  particle  of  fat,  being  careful 
not  to  disturb  the  sediment,  sprinkle  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  on  the 
chops  and  the  bottom  of  the  tin,  and  return  to  the  oven.  When  the 
flour  is  brown,  empty  the  contents  of  the  stew-jar  into  the  baking-tin, 
and  mix  the  onions  well  with  the  browned  flour,  using  an  iron  spoon  to 
clear  the  bottom  of  the  tin.  Return  to  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  arrange  the  chops  neatly  overlapping  each  other  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  serve  the  onions  and  gravy  in  the  centre. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1123.— STUFFED  PIG'S  FEET.     (Fr.— Pieds  de  Pore, 
Farcis.) 

Ingredients. — 4  pig's  feet,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs. 
For  the  stuffing  :  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  and  finely-chopped  onion, 
i  small  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  ^  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
sage,  i  tablespoonful  of  oiled  butter,  -|  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard, 
%  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  feet  into  a  stewpan  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  boil  gently  for  about  3  hours.  When  done, 
split  the  feet,  remove  the  bones,  and  press  the  forcemeat  made  of  the 
above  ingredients  into  the  cavities.  Replace  the  halves  together, 
and  press  between  2  dishes,  with  a  heavy  weight  on  the  top,  until  cold. 
When  ready  to  use,  cut  the  feet  into  slices  about  i  inch  in  thickness, 
roll  each  piece  in  flour,  brush  over  with  egg,  coat  with  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  until  nicely  browned  in  hot  fat.  Or,  if  preferred,  fry  them  in 
a  little  hot  butter  in  a  saute-pan.  Garnish  with  fried  parsley  before 
serving. 

Time. — 5  or  6  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1124.— SUCKING  PIG,  ROASTED.     (Fr.— Cochon  de 
Lait  roti.) 

Ingredients. — A  sucking  pig,  not  more  than  3  weeks  old,  butter,  or 
salad-oil  to  baste  with,  onion  forcemeat  (see  No.  404). 

Method. — Make  the  forcemeat  as  directed,  put  it  inside  the  pig,  and 
close  the  opening  by  means  of  a  trussing  needle  and  string.  Brush  the 
entire  surface  of  the  pig  with  salad-oil  or  warmed  butter,  wrap  it  in 
several  folds  of  well-oiled  or  well-greased  paper,  draw  the  legs  well 
back,  tie  into  shape,  and  either  roast  or  bake  the  pig  for  2\  or  3  hours, 
according  to  its  size.  It  should  be  thoroughly  well  basted,  and  about 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  651 

£  an  hour  before  the  time  of  serving,  the  paper  must  be  removed,  and 
the  pig  brushed  over  with  thick  cream  or  salad-oil  to  improve  the 
colour,  and  crisp  the  surface.  Before  serving,  cut  off  the  head,  and  split 
the  pig  down  the  centre  of  the  back  ;  lay  the  2  halves  on  a  dish,  divide 
the  head,  and  place  \  at  each  end  of  the  dish.  The  usual  accompani- 
ments are  brown  and  apple  sauces,  and  sometimes  hot  currants  :  the 
latter  should  be  prepared  the  day  before.  To  make  them  plump,  they 
must  be  scalded,  and  afterwards  thoroughly  dried.  Re-heat  in  the  oven 
before  serving. 

Time. — From  2\  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  6s.  to  IDS.  6d.     Suffi- 
cient for  8  or  9  persons. 

ROAST  Pic  WAS  DISCOVERED. — Charles  Lamb,  In  his  delightfully  quaint  prose  sketches, 
written  under  the  title  of  the  Essays  of  Flia,  has  devoted  one  paper  to  the  subject  of  Roast  Pig,  de- 

::uit.ible,  quiet,  humorous  manner  how  the  toothsome  dainty  kii> 
first  became  known  to  the  world. 

According  to  this  authority,  man  in  the  golden — or,  at  all  events,  the  primitive — age.  ate  his  jx-rk 
and  bacon  raw,  as  indeed  he  ate  his  beef  and  mutton.  At  the  epoch  of  the  story,  a  citizen  of  some 
S.  vtlu.i:  i-  to  have  his  hut,  containing  his  live  stock 

.*  over  the  debris  to  pick  out  the  available  salvage,  the  proprietor  touched  ^uiK-tlnni; 
1  him  to  put  his  suffering  finger*  into  bis  mouth.     The  act  was  simple,  but  the 
result  was  wonderful.     He  rolled  his  eyes  in  ecstasy  and  conscious  of  an  unwontc 
odour,  with  distended  nostrils,  and  drawing  in  deep  inspirations  of  tin  ravishing  perfume,  h<- 

rs  again  and  again.     Clearing  away  the  rubbish  of  his  ruined  hut,  there  was  disclosed  to  his 
view  one  of  his  pigs  roasted  to  death.     Stooping  down 

ment  of  the  burnt  skin  became  detached,  and  in  a  spirit  of  philosophical  in.jmrv  the  nun  put  it  into 
his  mouth.  No  pen  can  describe  the  felicity  he  then  enjoyed— it  was  then  that  he— the  world— first 
tasted  crackling.  For  a  time  the  Scythian  carefully  kept  his  secret,  and  feasted  in  secret  upon  his 
UK!  luxury  When  the  pig  was  at  last  eaten  up,  the  poor  man  fell  into  a  deep  melancholy, 
refused  his  accustomed  food,  lost  his  appetite,  and  became  reduced  to  a  shadow.  Unable  t 

f  memory  from  which  he  suffered  hourly,  he  rose  up  one  night  and  secretly  set  fire 
1  once  more  was  restored  to  health  and  spirits.     Finding  it  impossible  to  live  m  future 
with. .lit  his  newly  discovered  delicacy,  every  time  his  larder  became  empty  he  set  fire  to  his  bouse. 
until  his  neighbours  becoming  scandalized  by  these  incendiary  acts,  brought  his  conduct  !•• 

il  of  the  nation.     To  avert  the  penalty  threatened  him.  he  brought  hi 

smouldering  ruins,  and  discovering  bis  secret,  he  invited  them  to  rat  !     With  te.irs  «f  ^r.ititude  the 

in  overflowing  feeling  of  ecstasy  dedicated  a  statue  to  the 
•Mrnory  of  the  man  who  first  instituted  roast  pork. 


1125.— TENDERLOIN,     FRIED.     (Fr.— Tendrons    de 
Pore.) 

Ingredients. — Tenderloin  chops   (see    "  Savoury  Tenderloin  "). 

salt  and  pepper.  Irvine-fat 

Method,      ri.u  e   the   ihi>ps   in   a   frying-pan   containing  a  little  hot 
fat,   sprinkle  lightly   with   K  :nd   pepper.  -lv   l«>r    i«> 

minutes,  then  turn  and  sprinkle  the  <>th  •'.  ly  for  10 

minutes  longer,  then    remove  tin- 
all   the   fat.      Add   ;i  little  boiling   w.iter   to   the  sediment    in   the 
ste  with  salt  and  p<-pper.  I->il  up.  p«»ur  round 
hops,   and  se; 

Time.— About  20  minutes.      Average  Cost,  ;d.  or  Sd.   per  I1 

2   small  to    e.;ih    j  Seasonable.— <  »l>t.rn.d»K- 


652  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

II26._TO  SCALD  A  SUCKING-PIG.  -(Fr.— Cochon  de 
Lait.) 

Put  the  pig  into  cold  water  directly  it  is  killed;  let  it  remain  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  immerse  it  in  a  large  pan  of  boiling  water  for  2  minutes. 
Take  it  out,  lay  it  on  a  table,  and  pull  off  the  hair  as  quickly  as  possible. 
When  the  skin  looks  clean,  make  a  slit  down  the  belly,  take  out  the 
entrails,  well  clean  the  nostrils  and  ears,  wash  the  pig  in  cold  water,  and 
wipe  it  thoroughly  dry.  Take  oft"  the  feet  at  the  first  joint,  and  loosen 
and  leave  sufficient  skin  to  turn  neatly  over.  If  not  to  be  dressed  im- 
mediately, fold  it  in  a  wet  cloth,  to  exclude  the  air. 

1127.— TO  SMOKE  HAMS  AND  FISH  AT  HOME. 

Take  an  old  hogshead,  stop  all  the  crevices,  and  fix  a  place  to  put 
a  cross-stick  near  the  bottom,  to  hang  the  articles  to  be  smoked  on. 
Next,  in  the  side,  cut  a  hole  near  the  top,  to  introduce  an  iron  pan 
filled  with  sawdust  and  small  pieces  of  green  wood.  Having  turned 
the  tub  upside  down,  hang  the  articles  upon  the  cross-stick,  introduce 
the  iron  pan  in  the  opening,  place  a  piece  of  red-hot  iron  in  the  pan, 
cover  it  with  sawdust,  and  all  will  be  complete.  Let  a  large  ham 
remain  for  40  hours,  and  keep  up  a  good  smoke. 

1128.— TO  CURE  BACON  OR  HAMS  IN  THE  DEVON- 
SHIRE WAY. 

Ingredients. — To  every  14  Ib.  of  meat  allow  2  ozs.  of  saltpetre,  2  ozs. 
of  salt  prunella,  i  Ib.  of  common  salt.  For  the  pickle  :  3  gallons  of 
water,  5  Ib.  of  common  salt,  7  Ib.  of  coarse  sugar,  3  Ib.  of  bay-salt. 

Method. — Weigh  the  sides,  hams  and  cheeks,  and  to  every  14  Ib. 
allow  the  above  proportion  of  saltpetre,  salt  prunella  and  common 
salt.  Pound  and  mix  these  together.  Rub  well  into  the  meat,  and 
lay  it  in  a  stone  trough  or  tub,  rubbing  it  thoroughly,  turning 
it  daily  for  2  successive  days.  At  the  end  of  the  second  day,  pour 
on  it  a  pickle  made  as  follows  :  Put  the  above  ingredients  into  a  sauce- 
pan, set  it  on  the  fire,  stir  frequently,  remove  all  the  scum,  allow 
it  to  boil  for  15  minutes,  and  pour  it  hot  over  the  meat.  Let  the 
hams,  etc.,  be  well  rubbed  and  turned  daily  ;  if  the  meat  is  small,  a 
fortnight  will  be  sufficient  for  the  sides  and  shoulders  to  remain  in  the 
pickle,  and  the  hams  3  weeks  ;  if  from  30  Ib.  and  upwards,  3  weeks 
will  be  required  for  the  sides,  etc.,  and  from  4  to  5  weeks  for  the  hams. 
On  taking  the  pieces  out  let  them  drain  for  i  hour,  cover  with  dry 
sawdust,  and  smoke  from  a  fortnight  to  3  weeks.  Boil  and  carefully 
skim  the  pickle  after  using,  and  it  will  keep  good,  closely  corked,  for  2 
years.  When  boiling  it  for  use,  add  about  2  Ib.  of  common  salt,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  treacle,  to  allow  for  waste.  Tongues  are  excellent 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  653 

put  into  this  pickle  cold,  having  been  first  rubbed  with  saltpetre  and 
salt,  and  allowed  to  remain  24  hours,  not  forgetting  to  make  a 
incision  under  the  thick  part  of  the  tongue,  to  allow  the  pickle  to 
trate  more  readily.     A  fortnight  or  3  weeks,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
tongue,  will  be  sufficient. 

Time. — Small  meat  to  remain  in  the  pickle  j  weeks,  hams  3  weeks  ; 
to  be  smoked  from  2  to  3  weeks. 


1129.— TO  CURE  BACON  IN  THE  WILTSHIRE  WAY. 

Ingredients.—  i  \  Ib.  of  coarse  sugar,  i-J-  Ib.  of  bay-salt,  6  ozs.  ot 

,   i   ib.  <•!  i ommon  -^-dt. 

Method.— Sprinkle  each  Hitch  with  salt,  and  let  the  blood  drain  off 
tlu-n  pound  and  mix  the  aliovc  ingredients    together 
and  rub  it  well  into  ilie  meat,  which  should  l>e  turned  every  <1 
i  month.  up  to  dry,  and  afterwards  smoke  it  for  : 

Time. --To  remain  in  i  month  ;  to  be  smoked,  10  « 

Sufficient  for  i  pig. 

I'ir.s  WE*K  ronnrRLV  PA^TVRFD  AND  Fin  •:.«  immense  droves  of  pigs  were 

10  barons  and  franklin*,  the  swine-herd 
.  feudal  h«iu~ 

UK-  franklin  ««r  vavasour 

1.     In  Germany,  where  the  ch« 
enormous,  .1. 

• 

1130.— TO  CURE  HAMS.     (M.  Ude's  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — For  2  hams,  weighing  each  about    16  or   18  Ib.,  allow 

1  11).  of  moist  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  common  salt  ;e,  i  quart 

jar. 
Method.— As  soon  as  the  pig  is  cold  enough  to  be  cut  up,  take  th  • 

2  hams,  rub  them  well  with  common  sal;  .;vc  them  in  a  large 

When  the  salt  has  drawn  out  all  the  blood,  drain  the 
throw   the  b:  .      Mix   su^ar.   salt   and   .-.Jtpetrc  to- 

m  the  above  proportion,  rub  the  hams  well  with  these,  and  put 
scl  large  enough  to  hold  tl.  .e  salt 

em,      Let  them  remain  lor  ;  days,  then  pour  over  them  i  ijnart 
.     Turn  them  in  the  brine  every  day  for  a  month,  tin  n 
1,  and  nib  them  with  bran.      Have  them  smoked 
ular  that  the  hams  are  hung  as  high  as  ]>< 

from  the  fire  ;  othe:  fat  will  melt,  and  they  will  become  dry 

and  hard. 

Time. — To  be  ;  to  be  smoked,  i  month.     Sufficient 

•  hams  ot 


654  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1131.— TO  CURE  HAMS.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — To  2  hams  allow  2  Ib.  of  treacle,  \  a  Ib.  of  saltpetre, 
i  Ib.  of  bay-salt,  2  Ib.  of  common  salt. 

Method. — 2  days  before  they  are  put  into  pickle,  rub  the  hams  well 
with  salt,  to  draw  away  all  slime  and  blood.  Throw  away  what  comes 
from  them,  rub  them  with  treacle,  saltpetre  and  salt,  lay  them  in  a 
deep  pan,  and  let  them  remain  i  day.  Boil  the  above  proportion  of 
treacle,  saltpetre,  bay-salt  and  common  salt  for  1 5  minutes,  and  pour 
this  pickle  boiling  hot  over  the  hams.  There  should  be  sufficient  of  it 
to  cover  them.  For  a  day  or  two  rub  them  well  with  it,  afterwards 
they  will  only  require  turning.  They  ought  to  remain  in  this  pickle 
for  3  weeks  or  a  month,  and  then  be  sent  to  be  smoked,  which  will  take 
nearly  or  quite  a  month  to  do.  An  ox-tongue,  to  be  eaten  either 
green  or  smoked,  pickled  in  this  way  is  excellent. 

Time. — To  remain  in  the  pickle,  3  weeks  or  a  month  ;  to  be  smoked, 
about  i  month. 

1132.— TO  CURE  HAMS  (Westmoreland  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  common  salt,  3  Ib.  of  coarse  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  bay- 
salt,  3  quarts  of  strong  beer. 

Method. — Before  the  hams  are  put  into  pickle,  rub  them  the  pre- 
ceding day  well  with  salt,  and  thoroughly  drain  the  brine  from  them. 
Put  the  above  ingredients  into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  for  15  minutes  ; 
pour  over  the  hams,  and  let  them  remain  i  month  in  the  pickle.  Rub 
and  turn  them  every  day,  but  do  not  take  them  out  of  the  pickling- 
pan,  and  have  them  smoked  for  a  month. 

Time. — To  be  pickled,  i  month  ;  to  be  smoked,  i  month. 

II33._TO  CURE  HAMS  (Suffolk  Recipe). 

Ingredients. — To  a  ham  from  10  to  12  Ib.,  allow  i  Ib.  of  coarse  sugar, 
|  of  a  Ib.  of  salt,  i  oz.  of  saltpetre,  \  a  teacupful  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Rub  the  hams  well  with  common  salt,  and  leave  them 
for  a  day  or  two  to  drain  ;  then  rub  well  in  the  above  proportion  of 
sugar,  salt,  saltpetre  and  vinegar,  and  turn  them  every  other  day. 
Keep  them  in  the  pickle  i  month,  drain  them,  and  send  them  to  be 
smoked  over  a  wood  fire  for  3  weeks  or  a  month. 

Time. — To  remain  in  the  pickle,  i  month  ;  to  be  smoked,  3  weeks 
or  i  month.  Sufficient  for  i  ham. 

The  following  is  from  Morton's  "  Cyclopaedia  of  Agriculture." 
CURING  OF  HAMS  AND  BACON. 

The  carcass  of  the  hog,  after  hanging  over-night  to  cool,  is  laid  on  a 
strong  bench  or  stool,  and  the  her.d  is  separated  from  the  body  at  the 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  655 

neck,  close  behind  the  ears  ;  the  feet  and  also  the  internal  fat  are  re- 
moved. The  carcass  is  next  divided  into  two  sides  in  the  following 
manner  :  the  ribs  are  divided  about  i  inch  from  the  spine  on  each  side, 
and  the  spine,  with  the  ends  of  the  ribs  attached,  together  with  the 
internal  flesh  between  it  and  the  kidneys,  and  also  the  flesh  above  it, 
throughout  the  whole  length  of  the  sides,  are  removed.  The  portion 
of  the  carcass  thus  cut  out  is  in  the  form  of  a  wedge — the  breadth 
of  the  interior,  consisting  of  the  breadth  of  the  spine  and  about  i  inch 
of  the  ribs  each  side,  being  diminished  to  about  \  an  inch  at  the  exterior 
or  skin  along  the  back.  The  breast-bone,  and  also  the  first  anterior 
rib,  are  also  dissected  from  the  side.  Sometimes  the  whole  of  the 
ribs  are  removed  ;  but  this,  for  reasons  afterwards  to  be  noted,  is  a  very 
bad  practice.  When  the  hams  are  cured  separately  from  the  sides, 
which  is  generally  the  case,  they  are  cut  out  so  as  to  include  the  hock- 
bone,  in  a  similar  way  to  the  London  mode  of  cutting  a  haunch  of 
mutton.  The  carcass  of  the  hog  thus  cut  up  is  ready  for  being  salted, 
which  process,  in  large  curing  establishments,  is  generally  as  follows  : 
The  skin  side  of  the  pork  is  rubbed  over  with  a  mixture  of  50  parts  by 
weight  of  salt  and  i  part  of  saltpetre  in  powder,  and  the  incised  parts 
of  the  ham  or  flitch  and  the  inside  of  the  flitch  covered  with  the  same. 
The  salted  bacon,  in  pairs  of  flitches  with  the  insides  to  each  other, 
is  piled  one  pair  of  flitches  above  another  on  benches  slightly  inclined. 
and  furnished  with  spouts  or  troughs  to  convey  the  brine  to  receivers 
in  the  floor  of  the  salting-house,  to  be  afterwards  used  for  pickling  pork 
for  navy  purposes.  In  this  state  the  bacon  remains  a  fortnight,  which 
is  sufficient  for  flitches  cut  from  hogs  of  a  carcass- weight  less  than  15 
stone  (14  lb.  to  the  stone).  Flitches  of  a  larger  size,  at  the  expiration 
of  that  time,  are  wiped  dry  and  reversed  in  their  place  in  the  pile, 
having,  at  the  same  time,  about  half  the  first  quantity  of  fresh,  dry, 
common  salt  sprinkled  over  the  inside  and  incised  parts  ;  after  which 
they  remain  on  the  benches  for  another  wn-k.  Mams  being  thicker 
than  flitches,  will  require,  when  less  than  20  lb.  weight,  3  weeks;  and 
when  above  that  weight,  4  weeks  to  remain  under  the  above-described 
process.  The  next  and  last  process  in  the  preparation  of  bacon  and 
hams,  previous  to  being  sent  to  market,  is  drying.  This  is  effected 
by  hanging  the  flitches  and  hams  for  2  or  3  weeks  in  a  room  heated  by 
stm-es,  or  in  a  smoke-house,  in  which  they  are  exposed  for  the  same 
length  of  time  to  the  smoke  arising  from  the  slow  combustion  of  the 
sawdust  of  oak  or  other  hard  wood.  The  latter  mode  of  completing 
the  curing  process  has  some  advantage  over  the  other,  as  by  it  the 
is  subject  to  the  action  of  creosote,  a  volatile  oil  produced  by  the  com- 
bustion of  the  sawdust,  which  is  powerfully  antiseptic.  The  ]> 
also  furnishing  a  thin  covering  of  a  re-.imms  \.uni-h.  rxrludrs  the  air 
not  only  from  the  mus,  le,  1ml  also  from  tin-  tat.  thus  effectually  pre- 
venting the  meat  from  becoming  rusted  ;  and  the  principal  reasons  for 
condemning  the  practic*  the  ribs  from  the  flitches  of  pork 


656  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

are  that  by  so  doing  the  meat  becomes  unpleasantly  hard  and  pungent 
in  the  process  of  salting,  and  by  being  more  opposed  to  the  action  of  the 
air,  becomes  sooner  and  more  extensively  rusted.  Notwithstanding 
its  superior  efficacy  in  completing  the  process  of  curing,  the  flavour 
which  smoke-drying  imparts  to  meat  is  disliked  by  many  persons, 
and  it  is  therefore  by  no  means  the  most  general  mode  of  drying  adopted 
by  mercantile  curers.  A  very  impure  variety  of  TYPOLIGNEOUS  acid, 
or  vinegar  made  from  the  destructive  distillation  of  wood,  is  sometimes 
used  on  account  of  the  highly  preservative  power  of  the  creosote  which 
it  contains,  and  also  to  impart  the  smoke-flavour;  in  which  latter  object, 
however,  the  coarse  flavour  of  tar  is  given,  rather  than  that  derived 
from  the  smoke  from  combustion  of  wood.  A  considerable  portion 
of  the  bacon  and  hams  salted  in  Ireland  is  exported  from  that  country 
packed  amongst  salt,  in  bales,  immediately  from  the  salting  process, 
without  having  been  in  any  degree  dried.  In  the  process  of  salting 
above  described,  pork  loses  from  8  to  10  per  cent,  of  its  weight,  according 
to  the  size  and  quality  of  the  meat;  and  a  further  diminution  of  weight, 
to  the  extent  of  5  to  6  per  cent.,  takes  place  in  drying  during  the  first 
fortnight  after  being  taken  out  of  salt  ;  so  that  the  total  loss  in  weight 
occasioned  by  the  preparation  of  bacon  and  hams  in  a  proper  state  for 
market,  is  not  lesson  an  average  than  15  per  cent.,  on  the  weight  of  the 
fresh  pork. 

1134.— TO  CURE  PIG'S  CHEEKS. 

Ingredients. — Salt,  ^  an  oz.  of  saltpetre,  2  ozs.  of  bay-salt,  4  ozs.  of 
coarse  sugar. 

Method. — Cut  out  the  snout,  remove  the  brains  and  split  the  head, 
taking  off  the  upper  bone  to  make  the  jowl  a  good  shape.  Rub  it  well 
with  salt  ;  next  day  take  away  the  brine,  and  salt  it  again  the  following 
day.  Cover  the  head  with  saltpetre,  bay-salt  and  coarse  sugar  in  the 
above  proportion,  adding  a  little  common  salt.  Let  the  cheeks  be  often 
turned,  and  when  it  has  been  in  the  pickle  for  10  days,  smoke  it  for 
i  week  or  rather  longer. 

Time. — To  remain  in  the  pickle,  10  days  ;  to  be  smoked,  i  week. 
Average  Cost,  6d.  per  Ib. 

1135.— TO  CURE  OR  PICKLE  PORK. 

Ingredients. — \  of  a  Ib.  of  saltpetre,  salt. 

Method. — As  pork  does  not  keep  long  without  being  salted,  cut  it 
into  pieces  of  a  suitable  size  as  soon  as  the  pig  is  cold.  Rub  the  pieces 
of  pork  well  with  salt,  put  them  into  a  pan  with  a  sprinkling  of  it 
between  each  piece,  and  as  it  dissolves  on  the  top,  sprinkle  on  more. 
Lay  a  coarse  cloth  over  the  pan,  and  over  it  a  board,  and  place  a 
weight  on  the  board,  to  keep  the  pork  down  in  the  brine.  If  the  air 
be  excluded,  it  will  continue  good  for  nearly  2  years. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOK  INC,    PORK  657 

Average  Cost,  od.  per  lb.,  for  the  prime  p. 

•;.—  The  hog  is  one  utcdofnni: 

:>,irbarous,  and  wherr  tho  wild  --,••;•-  is  HM- 

,  with 

with  •  Jit  be 

rsed  to  be  derived.  The  ho^  is  the  principal  qu.idruprd  <«t  !  .  up«xi 

-1  other  vegetables,  i  renders  the  flesh  juicy,  rich  in 

II36._TO  BAKE  A  HAM.      (Fr.—  Jambon  roti.) 

Ingredients. — Ham,  a  common  crust. 

Method. — As  a  ham  for  baking  should  be  well  soaked,  let  it  remain 
in  water  for  at  least  12  hours.     Wipe  it  dry,  trim  away  any  rust  v  p! 
und«'rnea'h,  and  cover  it  with  a  common  crust,  taking  c 

Main 

Iv  .}  hours.      T.ik- 

th'-  r  with  r.  ame  as  for  tx 

ham  :il!- 

1137.-  TO  BOIL  A  HAM.     (Fr.— Jambon  bouilli.) 

Ingredients.— Ham.  water,  glaze  or  raspings. 
Method. — In  choosing  a  ham,  ascertain  that  it  is  perfectly 
running  a  s!  into  it,  close  to  the  bone  ;  if,  when  the  knit 

withdrawn,  it  has  an  agreeable  smell,  the  ham  is  good  ;  but,  on 

>uld  the  ivc  a  greasy  appearance  and  < 

!,  the  ham  is  bad.     If  it  has  been  long  hung,  and  :  and 

.ily. 
very 
hard 

'.   ham.  and   tri;: 

und  i  would 

it.  1  irefullyn 

until  tender,  and  be  careful  th.it  it  i: 

stop  boiling  nor  boil  too  quickly.     When  done  take  it  out  of  the 
strip  of;  :  inkle  over   it  a   few  bread-raspings,  pu 

frill  of  cut   papier  round  the  knuckle,  and  serve.     If  to  l><  >ld, 

lie  ham  remain  in  r  until  nearly  cold  ;  by  this  method 

juk  :>t  in,  and  it  will  l>e  found  infinitely  superior  to  one  taken 

.tcr  hot.     When  the  skin  is  removed,  sprinkle  over  br- 
,  or  glaze  it. 

Time.— A  ham  weighing  10  lb.,  4  hours  to  simmer  gently  ;  15  lb., 
rgc  one  about  6  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  is.  per  IK. 
by  the  whole  : 

II38._TO  BOIL  A  HAM.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredient  •  >f  celery  (or  less),  2  tur 

.  large  bunch  of  3  rbs. 


658  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Prepare  the  ham  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  and  let  it  soak 
for  a  few  hours  in  vinegar  and  water.  Put  it  on  in  cold  water,  and 
when  it  boils  add  the  vegetables  and  herbs.  Simmer  very  gently 
until  tender,  take  it  out,  strip  off  the  skin,  cover  with  bread-raspings, 
and  put  a  paper  ruche  or  frill  round  the  knuckle. 

Time. — A  ham  weighing  10  lb.,  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  per  lb., 
by  the  whole  ham. 

1139.— TO  BOIL  BACON.     (Fr.—  Petit  Lard  Bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — Bacon,  water. 

Method. — As  bacon  is  frequently  excessively  salt,  let  it  be  soaked 
in  warm  water  for  an  hour  or  two  previous  to  dressing  it  ;  then  pare  off 
the  rusty  parts,  and  scrape  the  under-side  and  rind  as  clean  as  possible. 
Put  it  into  a  saucepan  of  cold  water,  let  it  come  gradually  to  a  boil, 
and  as  fast  as  the  scum  rises  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  remove  it. 
Let  it  simmer  very  gently  until  it  is  thoroughly  done;  then  take  it  up, 
strip  off  the  skin,  and  sprinkle  over  the  bacon  a  few  bread-raspings 
and  garnish  with  tufts  of  cauliflower  or  Brussels  sprouts.  When  served 
alone,  young  and  tender  broad  beans  or  green  peas  are  the  usual  accom- 
paniments. 

Time. — i  lb.  of  bacon,  |-  of  an  hour;  2  lb.,  i£  hours.  Average  Cost, 
lod.  to  is.  per  lb.  for  the  prime  parts. 

1140.— TO  BOIL  PICKLED  PORK. 

Ingredients. — Pork,  water. 

Method. — Should  the  pork  be  very  salt,  let  it  remain  in  water  about 
2  hours  before  it  is  dressed.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  sufficient  cold 
water  to  cover  it,  let  it  gradually  come  to  a  boil,  then  gently  simmer 
until  quite  tender.  Allow  ample  time  for  it  to  cook,  as  nothing  is  more 
unwholesome  than  underdone  pork,  and,  when  boiled  fast,  the  meat 
becomes  hard.  This  is  sometimes  served  with  boiled  poultry  and 
roast  veal,  instead  of  bacon  ;  when  tender,  and  not  over  salt,  it  will  be 
found  equally  good. 

Time. — A  piece  of  pickled  pork  weighing  2  lb.,  i\  hours  ;  4  lb.,  rather 
more  than  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  pd.  per  lb.  for  the  prime  parts. 

1141.— TO  MAKE  LARD. 

Method. — Melt  the  inner  fat  of  the  pig  by  putting  it  in  a  stone  ]ar, 
and  placing  this  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  previously  stripping 
off  the  skin.  Let  it  simmer  gently,  and,  as  it  melts,  pour  it  carefully 
from  the  sediment.  Put  it  into  small  jars  or  bladders  for  use,  and  keep 
it  in  a  cool  place.  The  flead  or  inside  fat  of  the  pig  before  it  is  melted 
makes  exceedingly  light  crust,  and  is  particularly  wholesome.  It  may 
be  preserved  a  length  of  time  by  salting  it  well,  and  occasionally  chang- 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    PORK  659 

ing  the  brine.     When  wanted  for  use,  wash  and  wipe  it,  and  it  will 
answer  for  making  paste  as  well  as  fresh  lard. 
Average  Cost,   lod.  per  Ib. 

1142.— TO  MAKE  SAUSAGES.      (Fr.— Saucisses.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  pork,  fat  and  lean,  without  skin  or  gristle  ; 
i  Ib.  of  lean  veal,  i  Ib.  of  beef  suet,  £  a  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs,  the  rind 
of  £  a  lemon,  some  nutmeg,  6  sage  leaves,  i  teaspoonful  of  savoury 
herbs,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  marjoram. 

Method. — Chop  the  pork,  veal  and  suet  finely  together,  add  the  bread- 
crumbs, lemon-peel  (which  should  be  well  minced),  and  a  grating  of 
nutmeg.  Wash  and  chop  the  sage-leaves  very  finely  ;  add  these, 
with  the  remaining  ingredients,  to  the  sausage-meat,  and  when  thor- 
oughly mixed,  i  -it  her  put  the  meat  into  skins,  or,  when  wanted  for  table, 
form  it  into  little  cakes,  which  should  be  floured  and  fried. 

Average  Cost,  for  this  quantity,  2S.  6d.  Sufficient  for  about  30  moder- 
ate-sized sausa; 

Tut   Hoc  IN  ENGLAND.— From  time  immemorial  the  bog  has  been  valued  in  England.     In  the 
l  -Saxon  period  vast  herds  of  swine  were  tended  by  men  who  watched  over  th«  ir  s..f«-ty.  and 
collected  them  under  shelter  at  night     The  flesh  of  the  animal  was  the  staple  article  of  cousui 

md  a  large  portion  of  the  wealth  of  the  well-to-do  freemen  of  the  country  consisted 
of  swine.     Hence  it  was  a  common  practice  to  make  bequests  of  swine  with  land  for  their  support, 

h  bequests  were  attached  rights  and  privileges  in  connexion  with  the  feeding  of 
th.  .  x  t .•:.  t  of  woodland  to  be  occupied  by  a  given  number  being  granted  in  accordance  with  established 

I  1 143. -TO  MAKE  BRAWN. 
Ingredients. —To  a  piu's  head  \\eighing  ft  Ib.  allow  i  \  Ib.  of  It  an  beef, 
2  tablespoon  fill  ,2  teaspoonluls  of  pepper,  a  little  eavenne, 

6  pounded  cloves. 
Method.   -Cut  of!  the  cheeks  and  salt  them,  unless  the  head  be  small, 
when  all  may  be  used.      A  tully  cleaning  the  head,  put  it  on  in 

sufficient  cold  water  to  cover  it,  with  the  l>ccf,  and  skim  it  just  IK 
it  l.oils.      A  head  u-i-hin-  '>  Ib.  will  n-.juire  boiling  from  2  to  3  hours. 
When  sufficiently  boiled  to  come  off  the  bones  easily,  put  it  into  a  hot 

•:.  remove  the  bones,  and  chop  the  meat  with  a  sharp  knife  b« 
th-  ;he  r  with  the  beef.     It  is  necessary  to  do  this  as  qui»  klv 

as  to  prevent  the  fat  settling  in  it.     Sprinkle  in  the  season 

which  should  have  been  previously  n .:  :r  it   well,  and  put   it 

quickly  into  a  brawn-tin:   a  cake-tin  or  mould  will  answer  the  purpose, 
if    the  meat  is  well  pressed  with  v  'iich  must  not  be  removed 

••ral   hours.     When  quit.-  cold,  dip   the   tin  into  Imiling   water 
for  a  minute  or  two,  and  the  preparation  will  turn  out  and  be  fit  for 

liquor  in  which  the  head  was  boil- •<!  will  make  good  pea  soup, 

and  the  fat,  if  skimm  i  boil-  d  in  w.it    r,  and  afterwards  poured 

into  cold   water.  the  purposes  ,,f  lard. 


660  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — From  2  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  for  a  pig's  head,  5d.  per  Ib. 

THE  SAXON  SWINEHERD. — The  men  employed  in  tending  swine  in  Anglo-Saxon  times  were  usually 
thralls  or  slaves  of  the  soil,  who  were  assisted  by  powerful  dogs,  capable  of  singly  contending  with 
a  wolf  until  his  master  came  with  his  spear  to  the  rescue.  Sir  Walter  Scott,  in  Ivanhoe,  gives  a  graphic 
picture  of  Gurth,  an  Anglo-Saxon  swineherd  ;  and  also  of  his  master,  a  large  landed  proprietor,  whose 
chief  wealth  consisted  of  swine,  the  flesh  of  these  liberally  supplying  his  rude  but  hospitable  table. 

1144.— HOW  TO  LARD  WITH  LARDING  BACON. 

Ingredients. — Bacon  and  larding-needle. 

Method. — Bacon  for  larding  should  be  firm  and  fat,  and  ought  to  be 
cured  without  any  saltpetre,  as  this  reddens  white  meats.  Lay  it  on 
a  table,  the  rind  downwards,  trim  off  any  rusty  part,  and  cut  it  into 
slices  about  |-  of  an  inch  in  thickness  when  intended  to  be  used  for 
larding  cutlets,  small  fillets  and  birds,  and  slightly  thicker  when 
for  the  purpose  of  inserting  in  a  whole  fillet  of  beef,  or  joints  of  a 
similar  or  larger  size.  Lay  these  slices  on  the  board  and  cut  them 
again  in  strips,  each  of  the  four  sides  of  which  shall  be  equal. 
The  length  of  lardoons  varies  from  i£  to  2  inches.  They 
should  be  inserted  as  evenly  as  possible  in  horizontal  lines,  and 
the  lardoons  forming  the  second  and  fourth  rows  must  intersect 
those  of  the  first  and  third,  thus  producing  the  diagonal  lines, 
and  diamond-shaped  spaces.  The  primary  object  of  larding  is  to  add 
a  fatty  substance  to  lean,  dry  meats,  such  as  the  breast  of  chickens 
and  other  birds,  backs  and  thighs  of  hares,  small,  lean  fillets  of  veal, 
mutton  and  beef,  and  many  other  things.  They,  however,  add  greatly 
to  the  appearance  of  a  dish  when  the  lardoons  are  arranged  evenly, 
and  their  ends  cut  to  a  uniform  length  by  means  of  scissors.  Larding 
is  a  simple  and  easy  process  when  the  lardoons  are  inserted  across  the 
grain  or  fibres  of  the  meat,  but  may  be  very  troublesome  if  an  attempt 
be  made  to  lard  thin  fillets  in  a  contrary  direction.  In  inserting 
the  needle  no  more  of  the  flesh  should  be  taken  up  than  is  necessary 
to  hold  the  lardoon  firmly  in  place  ;  and  it  must  be  pulled  through  with 
a  short,  sharp  jerk,  a  finger  of  the  left  hand  being  pressed  on  the  end 
of  the  lardoon  to  prevent  the  end  of  it  passing  through  with  the  needle. 


POULTRY 

CHAPTER    XXII 
General  Observations  on  Birds  and  on  Poultry  Breeding 

:  >  1  >  1 1  : 

Or   !•  •   -• 

.       ' 

\\-  on  their  habits  of  life  and.  st: 

B   of   the  sternum   or  1  sub-i-lus- 

the  Itulcs  all  binl 

••  rnnin  \vitln-1. 

all    i  ami 

tin-    remarkable  .-.ml    with    ru 

and  :hat  of  the  Carin.. 

an«l   includes  all   birds   ha- 

:ul   cluck. 

orders—  /  prey. 

1  ;    Insessores,  pn 

the  lark.  and  all  singing  birds  ;   Scansores,  climb- 

Cuckoo  ;    Rasorcs,  sera ti- hi: 

•:ion  fowl.  partridiM-  and  ]>heasant  ;   Cursorcs,  rum. 
birds,  sm  h  ry  ;    Grallatores,  wading  b; 

k  and  the    heron;    Nalatores, 

:i/.<-d   b\ 
pcliran  and  the  £ull  ;  and  Saurura,  lizard-tailed  birds,  which  in>  '. 

. 
'v.      A  i)  .tion,  ba 

t eristics,  by  Professor  Hu 
birds  into  other  orders.       It    \\iil 
m.\  of  function  to  environment 
in    •  La  comprised    in  the  ri-ht   oi 

lie  land  and  the  water  has  ( 
rid  of  in! 


662  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

The  Mechanism  which  enables  Birds  to  fly  is  singular  and  instructive. 
Their  bodies  are  covered  with  feathers  which  are  much  lighter  than 
the  hair  with  which  quadrupeds  are  usually  covered  ;  the  feathers  are 
so  placed  as  to  overlap  each  other,  like  the  slates  or  tiles  on  the  roof 
of  a  house  ;  they  are  also  arranged  from  the  fore-part  backwards, 
so  as  to  enable  the  birds  to  cleave  their  way  through  the  air  more  con- 
veniently. Their  skeleton  is  well  adapted  for  aerial  existence  ;  the 
bones  are  hollow  and  extremely  light  in  comparison  with  those  of 
terrestrial  animals,  the  bone  tissue  containing  a  much  larger  propor- 
tion of  phosphate  of  lime.  Moreover,  the  long  bones  contain  air 
instead  of  marrow,  and  are  filled  with  air  by  means  of  special  aper- 
tures connected  with  air-cells  supplied  from  the  lungs.  This  greatly 
facilitates  their  rising  from  the  earth  ;  their  heads  are  comparatively 
small,  their  bills  are  wedge-shaped,  and  their  bodies  are  slender,  sharp 
below  and  round  above.  With  all  these  conditions,  however,  birds 
could  not  fly  without  wings.  These  are  the  instruments  which  confer 
the  power  of  rapid  locomotion.  They  are  constructed  in  such  a  manner 
that  they  are  capable  of  great  expansion  when  struck  in  a  downward 
direction  ;  if,  in  this  action,  we  except  the  slight  hollow  which  occurs 
on  the  under  side  they  almost  become  two  planes.  That  the  down- 
ward action  may  be  accomplished  to  the  necessary  extent,  the  muscles 
which  move  the  wings  have  been  made  exceedingly  large  ;  so  large, 
indeed,  that,  in  some  instances,  they  have  been  estimated  at  not  less 
than  a  sixth  of  the  weight  of  the  whole  body.  Therefore,  when  a  bird 
is  on  the  ground  and  intends  to  fly,  it  takes  a  leap,  and  immediately 
stretching  its  wings,  strikes  them  out  with  great  force.  By  this  act 
these  are  brought  into  an  oblique  direction,  being  turned  partly  up- 
wards and  partly  horizontally  forwards.  That  part  of  the  force  which 
has  the  upward  tendency  is  neutralized  by  the  weight  of  the  bird, 
whilst  the  horizontal  force  serves  to  carry  it  forward.  The  stroke  being 
completed  it  moves  upon  its  wings  which,  being  contracted  and  having 
their  edges  turned  upwards,  obviate,  in  a  great  measure,  the  resistance 
of  the  air.  When  it  is  sufficiently  elevated  it  makes  a  second  stroke 
downwards,  and  the  impulse  of  the  air  again  moves  it  forward.  These 
successive  strokes  may  be  regarded  as  so  many  leaps  taken  in  the  air. 
When  the  bird  desires  to  direct  its  course  to  the  right  or  left  it  strikes 
strongly  with  the  opposite  wing,  which  impels  it  to  the  proper  side. 
The  tail  plays  a  prominent  part  in  the  movements  of  the  bird,  acting 
like  the  rudder  of  a  ship,  except  that  it  moves  upwards  and  downwards 
instead  of  sideways  ;  if  the  bird  wishes  to  rise,  it  raises  its  tail  ;  it 
depresses  it  when  it  desires  to  descend  ;  if  it  wishes  to  preserve  a 
horizontal  position  it  keeps  its  tail  steady.  For  example,  a  pigeon 
or  a  crow  will  preserve  a  horizontal  flight  for  some  time  without  any 
apparent  motion  of  the  wings  ;  this  is  accomplished  by  the  bird  having 
already  acquired  sufficient  velocity  and  by  its  meeting  with  but  small 
resistance  from  the  atmosphere,  owing  to  its  wings  being  parallel  to 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS    ON    BIRDS  663 

the  horizon.  Should  the  bird  begin  to  fall  it  can  easily  steer  itself 
upward  by  means  of  its  tail  until  the  motion  it  had  acquired  is  nearly 
spent,  when  by  a  few  more  strokes  of  the  wings  the  impetus  is  renewed. 
When  alighting  a  bird  expands  its  wings  and  tail  fully  against  the 
air,  just  as  a  ship,  in  tacking  round,  backs  her  sails  in  order  that  they 
may  meet  with  the  maximum  of  resistance. 

The  construction  of  Birds  shows  that  their  eyes  are  peculiarly 
adapted  to  the  requirements  of  their  environment.  As  a  defence 
against  external  injury  from  the  thickets  and  hedges  in  which 
they  pass  a  great  part  of  their  life,  and  also  as  a  protection  against  the 
effects  of  the  light  when  they  are  flying  in  the  face  of  the  sun, 
their  eyes  are  provided  with  a  nictating  or  winking  membrane, 
or  third  e\ vlid.  placed  below  and  within  the  ordinary  lids,  and  moved 
by  two  little  muscles  on  the  back  of  the  eyeball  ;  this  lid  is  kept  moist 
by  a  gland  which  secretes  a  lluid,  and  it  can  be  drawn  at  pleasure  over 
like  a  curtain.  This  covering  is  neither  opaque  nor 
wholly  pellucid,  but  is  somewhat  transparent  ;  and  it  is  by  its  means 
that  the  ea-Je  is  said  to  be  able  to  gaze  at  the  sun.  "  In  birds,"  says 
a  wi  iter  on  this  subject,  "  we  find  that  the  sight  is  much  more  piercing, 
and  exact  than  in  the  other  orders  of  animals.  The  eye  is 
much  larger  in  proportion  to  the  bulk  of  the  head  than  in  any  of  t 

is  a  superiority  conferred  ujKm  them  n<>t  without  a  corresponding 
utility  ;    it  srems  even  indispensable  to  their  safety  and  subsist 

•rgan  in  birds  dull,  or  in  the  least  degree^  opaque-,  they  would 

::om   the  rapidity  of  th»-ir  motion,  of  striki: 
various  objects  in  their  flight.     In  this  ca^c  their  celerity,  instead  of 

I  vantage,  would  In-come  an  evil,  and  their  flight  be  : 
by  tin  dan.m  r  result  in-  from  it.     Indeed,  we  may  consider  the  velocity 
with  which  an  animal  moves  as  a  sure  indication  of  the  perfection  of 

ion.     Among  the  quadrupeds,  the  sloth  has  its  sight  pi 
limited;   whilst  tin  in  the  air,  can  espy  a  lark  sitting 

on  a  clod,  perhaps  at  twenty  times  the  distance  at  which  a  man  or  a 
dog  could  it." 

Respiration. — Of  the  many  peculiarities  in  the  construction  of  birds, 
not  the  least  is  the  by  which  they  breathe.     They  do  so  by 

.hout  the  body  and  adhering  to 
the  u;  ice  of  the  bones  ;    these  by  their  motion  force  the  air 

ie  lungs,  which  an  .ill  and  placed  in  the  r.: 

<>f  the  chest,  and  d  n  to  the  back  and  ribs  ; 

the  blood  uil  circulation  of  birds 

;at  of  mamm  ts  of  two  auricles  and  two 

NC  of  th< 
Hood,  into  the  lun-s  for  purification  '    the  lefi 

pure  blood,  out  f>  m  the  body  ;  the  blood 

of  birds  has  a  higher  t<  • -f  mammals,  aver. 


664  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Birds  are  Distributed  over  every  Part  of  the  Globe,  being  found  in  the 
coldest  as  well  as  the  hottest  regions,  although  some  species  are 
restricted  to  particular  countries,  whilst  others  are  widely  dispersed. 
At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  many  of  them  change  their  abodes, 
and  migrate  to  climates  better  adapted  to  their  temperaments  or  modes 
of  life,  for  a  time,  than  those  which  they  leave.  Many  of  the  birds 
of  Britain,  directed  by  an  unerring  instinct,  take  their  departure 
from  the  island  before  the  commencement  of  winter,  and  proceed  to 
the  more  congenial  warmth  of  Africa,  to  return  with  the  next  spring. 
Various  causes  are  assigned  by  naturalists  for  this  peculiarity,  some 
attributing  it  to  deficiency  of  food,  others  to  the  want  of  a  secure 
asylum  for  the  incubation  and  nourishment  of  their  young,  and  others 
again  to  the  necessity  of  a  certain  temperature  for  existence  ;  natural 
selection  may  be  a  probable  explanation  of  the  phenomenon  of  the 
migration  of  birds.  Their  migrations  are  generally  performed  in 
large  companies  ;  in  the  daytime  they  follow  a  leader  who  is  occasion- 
ally changed  ;  during  the  night-time  many  of  the  tribes  send  forth 
a  continual  cry,  to  keep  themselves  together,  although  it  might  be 
thought  that  the  noise  which  must  accompany  their  flight  would  be 
sufficient  for  that  purpose. 

The  Food  of  Birds  varies,  as  does  the  food  of  quadrupeds,  according 
to  the  character  of  the  species.  Some  are  altogether  carnivorous  ; 
others,  as  for  instance  many  of  the  web-footed  tribes,  subsist  on  fish  ; 
others,  on  insects  and  worms  ;  and  others  again  on  grain  and  fruit.  The 
extraordinary  powers  of  the  gizzard  of  the  gramnivorous  birds  enable 
them  to  comminute  their  food  so  as  to  prepare  it  for  digestion.  Their 
digestive  system  consists  of  glands  of  a  simple  form,  of  a  single  or 
double  ingluvies  or  crop  which  receives  the  food  ;  of  the  proventri- 
culus,  or  true  digestive  cavity  ;  of  the  gizzard  furnished  internally 
with  horny  ridges  by  means  of  which  the  food  is  broken  up,  and  a  com- 
paratively short  intestine  and  gall  bladder.  The  stones  found  in  the 
stomachs  of  birds  take  the  place  of  teeth,  in  that  they  grind  down  the 
grain  and  other  hard  substances  which  constitute  their  food.  The 
stones  themselves,  being  also  ground  down  and  separated  by  the 
powerful  action  of  the  gizzard,  are  mixed  with  the  food,  and  doubtless 
contribute  greatly  to  the  health  as  well  as  to  the  nourishment  of  the 
birds. 

All  Birds  are  Oviparous. — The  eggs  which  the  various  species  produce 
differ  in  shape  and  colour  as  well  as  in  point  of  number.  They  con- 
tain protoplasm,  the  elements  of  the  future  young,  for  the  perfecting 
of  which  in  the  incubation  a  bubble  of  air  is  always  placed  at  the 
large  end,  between  the  shell  and  the  inside  skin.  This  air  bubble 
gets  larger  by  absorption  through  the  shell  and  evaporation  of  the  fluid 
contents,  so  that  a  large  air-bubble  is  the  sign  of  a  stale  egg.  During 
incubation  the  shell  is  dissolved,  and  goes  to  form  the  bones  of  the 
chick.  To  preserve  an  egg  perfectly  fresh,  and  even  fit  for  incubation, 


GENERAL    ODH  KVATIOXS    ON    BIRDS  665 

for  five    or   six    months   after   it   has   been    laid,  stop    up   its   pores 
with  a  slight  coating  of  varnish  or  mutton-suet,     lairds,  l.< 
not  1.  fore  they  have  some  place  to  put  them  ;    accordingly, 

they  construct  nests  for  themselves  with  astonishing  art, 

Each  ciyumstance 

H«>w  artfully  contrived  to  favour  warmth! 
H- re  read  the  reason  of  the  vaulted  roof; 

kind, 

iisproportkm  that  si:'. 

en  the  mother  and  the  numerous  brood, 
Which  hir  small  bulk  must  quicken  into  life. 

In  building  their  nests  the  male  and  female  generally  assist  each  other, 
and    they  contrive  to  make  the  outside  of  their  tenement   I H 

lance  as  possible  to  the  surrounding  foliage  or  branches, 
.t  it  cannot  very  easily  be  discovered  even  by  those  who  are  in 
h  of  it. 

Birds  as  Food.— There  is  no  bird,  nor  any  bird's  egg,  that  is  k 
to  be  poisonous,  though  v,  and  often  do,  become  unwhol 

by  reason  of  the  food  i  birds  eat.  which  at  all  times  giv.it  ly 

the  quality  of  tb  «  n  in  birds  of  the  sanv 

adoor  fowls  are  less  fat  than,  but  i  >r  in  flavour  to  the 

n  close  crops  for  the  te  ^s  of  fo\v 

aps  and  house  refuse  arc  generally  strong  and  disagreeable.  Wild 
ducks  and  other  aquatic  birds    are  often  rank  and  fishy  fla\< 
The  pigeon  fattens  and  wastes  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours. 

(1  flavour  of  the  grouse  is  said  to  be  due  to  the  heather  shoots 
on  which  it  feeds. 

Poultry. — Most  poultry  breeders  arrange  that  poultry 

ble  shall  undergo  a  special  preparation  pr«  Killed, 

but  it  will  be  found  that  the  flesh  of  a  healthy  fowl  which  has  1 
free  out-of-door  life  till  the*  last  moment  is  both  better  in  i: 

in  that  of  one  which  has  been  k  :iimmu-nt, 

.ind  !-  s  compul.-orily  into  an  unhealthy  condition  of  obesity. 

li  fed  and  killed  at  the  nqht  -.irally  feel  birds  will  be  quite 

plump  enough.      T!  ridges,  for  in 

plump  <-c  to  find   th 

a  famous  tor  the  :   the  poultry 

s,  as  they  are  more  frequently 
invariably  command   the  hi-lu^t   prices  ;    and  deservedly  so, 

^h. 

\Vhile  the  birds  are  l><  must  have  only  soft  food, 

no  hard  corn  1  »le.     The  best  (kg  foods  arc  ground 

and     whole    whc.r 

•ances.      ] 

rnntni  -:ch  to  the  ilr-h  ;    and  in 

but   to  d< 


666  HOUSEPIOLD    MANAGEMENT 

plenty  of  good,  wholesome  flesh.  Whatever  the  breed,  the  treatment 
is  the  same  in  the  fattening  coop.  Chickens  should  be  confined  in 
them  when  about  three  months  old,  and  be  fed  three  times  a  day,  the 
troughs,  which  are  hung  outside  the  coop,  being  removed  as  soon  as 
they  have  satisfied  their  appetites.  Food  should  never  be  left  standing 
by  them,  and  in  the  early  fattening  stages  it  is  a  good  plan  to  miss  a 
meal  at  the  first  indication  of  failing  appetite.  The  ground  oats, 
which  constitute  their  principal  food,  are  nearly  always  mixed  with 
separated  milk,  and  made  so  moist  that  the  birds  cannot  lift  up  a  lump 
with  their  beaks.  It  is  necessary  that  they  should  be  kept  in  semi- 
darkness  ;  and  when  their  appetites  fail,  as  they  usually  do  after  a 
fortnight's  restraint,  the  cramming  machine  has  to  be  utilized,  the  same 
food  being  still  given  them,  with  the  addition  of  suet  or  rough  fat. 
The  coops  or  pens  employed  by  the  poultry  feeders  are  made  of  laths, 
stand  raised  from  the  ground,  and  are  usually  placed  in  sheds.  They 
who  have  no  fattening  pens  should  confine  the  fowls  in  a  small  run, 
feed  them  three  times  a  day  on  ground  oats,  barley-meal,  and  maize- 
meal  mixed  with  potatoes.  When  a  certain  stage  is  reached  the  birds 
begin  to  go  back,  and  should  be  killed  at  once,  first  letting  them  fast 
twenty-four  hours  to  empty  the  crop.  The  longest  period  that  is 
advisable  for  fattening  a  fowl  is  three  weeks. 

An  easy  way  to  kill  a  fowl  is  to  hang  it  up  by  the  legs,  and  with  a  sharp 
knife  pierce  the  roof  of  the  mouth  until  the  point  touches  the  brain. 
Death  is  instantaneous,  and  the  fowl  should  be  plucked  whilst  warm, 
and  then  placed  in  a  V-shaped  trough,  back  uppermost,  a  board  being 
laid  on  the  top  with  a  heavy  weight  upon  it,  to  ensure  the  fowl  being 
a  good  shape  when  cold. 

Fattening  Turkeys  for  the  Table. — Turkeys  grow  very  slowly  ;  there- 
fore, the  earlier  they  are  hatched  the  better  when  it  is  necessary  that 
they  should  attain  their  full  growth  by  Christmas.  They  need  plenty 
of  liberty  and  good  feeding  from  the  day  of  their  hatching  until  they 
come  to  the  fattening  shed.  A  roomy  shed,  open  to  the  south,  should 
be  selected  for  the  purpose,  for  these  birds  thrive  best  when  kept 
warm  and  dry.  The  shed  should  be  supplied  with  low  perches,  kept 
scrupulously  clean,  and  provided  with  means  for  excluding  the  light. 
They  are  usually  fed  twice  a  day  ;  in  the  morning  on  a  mixture  of  meals, 
such  as  ground  oats,  barley-meal,  sharps  or  pollard,  and  a  little  maize, 
moistened  with  separated  milk.  The  afternoon  meal  sometimes  con- 
sists of  whole  corn,  previously  soaked  in  hot  water  and  given  to  them 
whilst  warm,  or  it  may  be  simply  a  repetition  of  the  morning's  meal. 
The  addition  of  fat  helps  to  make  the  flesh  of  the  birds  white,  and  a 
certain  amount  of  flint  grit  is  necessary  to  their  well-being.  They 
should  not  be  permitted  to  see  fowls  at  liberty  while  under  restraint 
themselves,  otherwise  they  are  apt  to  fret  and  refuse  their  food. 

Fattening  Ducks  for  the  Table. — The  secret  of  success  in  fattening  ducks 
consists  in  starting  the  process  almost  as  soon  as  they  are  hatched,  in 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS   ON    BIRDS  667 

order  to  have  them  ready  before  their  first  moult,  which  takes  place 
when  they  are  about  ten  weeks  old.  The  Aylesbury  "  duckers,"  as  the 
duck  fattcners  are  called,  get  their  ducklings  to  scale  four  pounds  and 
over  when  eight  or  nine  weeks  old.  Ducklings  should  be  bedded  on  straw 
in  an  airy  shed,  kept  clean  and  only  let  out  to  feed,  when  they  should 
have  all  they  will  eat  and  drink,  and  then  be  driven  back  to  the  shed 
The  food  should  be  mixed  fairly  moist,  and  consist  of  mixed  meals, 
ground  oats,  biscuit-meal,  barley-meal,  sharps  or  well-boiled  rice,  to  which 
a  little  fat  is  added.  They  should  not  be  permitted  to  swim,  and  should 
be  sheltered  from  the  sun.  As  soon  as  the  adult  quill- feathers  appear 
on  their  wings,  they  go  back  in  condition  and  are  troublesome  to  pluck  ; 
therefore,  unless  killed  before  that  stage  is  reached,  they  should  be 
turned  out,  and  kept  until  about  three  or  four  months  old.  Flint  grit 
should  be  put  in  their  water-trough  while  they  are  fattening. 

Fattening  Geese  for  the  Table. — Goslings  are  generally  allowed   their 
liberty  during  the  summer,  and  have  little  food  except  the  grass  they 

It  is  not  advisable  to  shut  them  up  when  the  time  con 
fatten  them  ;    they  should  simply  be  well  fed  morning  and  ev< 
and  permitted  to  range  at  liberty  and  cat  all  the  grass  possible,  for 
grass  forms  a  considerable  portion  of  their  food.     A  mixture  of  boiled 
harps  and  various  .  mid  be  given  them  in  the  morning, 

and  maize  or  wheat  at  night,  the  latter  being  put  in  the  water-t: 
hould  be  allowed  all  the  food  they  will  eat  for  three  or  four  \ 
before  killing.     If  shut  up  they  can  b  ;   but  fat  geese  are 

not  desirable,  for  they  lose  too  much  weight  in  cook 

To  Choose  Poultry.     When   fresh,   the  eyes  should  be  clear  and  not 
sunken,  the  feet  limp  and  pliable,  stilt  dry  Mire  indi. 

•lie  bird  has  not  been  recently  killed  ;    and  if  the  bird  is  plucked 
should  be  no  discoloration  of  the  skin. 
Fowls,  when  young,  should  have  smooth  legs  and  feet  ;    the  cock 

:ng  when  it  has  smooth  legs  and  si 
h.ivc  smooth  legs.     The  bones  of  all  young  birds  are  soft  and 

and  the-.  lea  with  Ig0  ;  tin-  end  of  the  b- 

.vhen    young    is    Mift    and    pliablr  ;     when    nti.  it    may   be 

bird 

of  an  old  t"\\l  .  :,  horny-looki: 

and  hairy  thighs,  s:  lx>ncs.      Game  fowls,  and  thus,- 

>r    l>«>ilmg.      White 
re  suitable  for  boiling. 

Turkeys.     Turkeys,  wh<  ;  urs  and  smooth  black 

legs  ;  when  th<  ^h  and  rough, 

: s  may  be  taken  as  -  When  freshly  killed 

li-Mild   be   full  turkevs 

the  b<  .  an  1  tl. 

1  ducks  !  >w  feet  and  bills  ;    as  they 


668  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

grow  old  they  become  darker  and  reddish  in  colour.  The  feet  of  freshly 
killed  geese  and  ducks  are  moist  and  soft,  but,  like  those  of  fowls  and 
turkeys,  they  become  dry  and  stiff  when  they  have  been  killed  some 
time. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING 
POULTRY. 

CHAPTER    XXIII 

1145.— CANNELONS  OF  CHICKEN.    (Fr—  Cannelons 
de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — Chicken  croquette  mixture,  No.  115.  rough  puff  paste, 

;,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Roll  out  the  paste  as  thinly  as  possible,  and  cut  it  into 
1 1  or  I \  inch  squares.  Place  a  little  chicken  mixture  in  the  centre 
of  each  square,  and  roll  up  rather  tightly.  Coat  them  carefulh 

•id  breadcrumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  lightly-browned,  then  drain 
\vell,  and  .rnished  with 

Time. — To  fry,  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2d.  to  3d.  each.  Allow  2 
or  3  to  each  person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1146.— CANVASS ACK,  BOILED. 

American  Cookery." 

1147.— CANVASBACK,  ROASTED. 

"  American  Cook( 

1148.— CAPONS  AND  POULARDES,  TO  DRESS. 

The  mal.-   fowl,    the   capOQ,   and  the  female   bird,   the  pnu! 
both,  by  treatment  while  young,  made  iivapablc  of  g  ,  with 

that  their  size  b  ilXa  become  fatter  than 

ordinary    fowls.     'I".  ur    of    t;  rde   is   considered    more 

te  than  that  of  the  capon,  but  tl  -ird.     They 

may  be  boiled.  ted,  or  otherv,  ed, according  to  the 

>r   cookir 

equ.d  to  tin-  lurds  in  point  o|  (••. 


670  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

1149.— CHICKEN   A   LA   MARENGO.        (Fr.— Poulet 
saute  a  la  Marengo.*) 

Ingredients. — i  chicken,  £  of  a  pint  of  salad-oil,  i  pint  of  Espagnole 
sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  244),  the  pulp  of  2  ripe  tomatoes,  £  a  glass  of 
sherry,  i  dozen  preserved  mushrooms,  6  stoned  olives,  i  truffle,  salt  and 
pepper,  fleurons  for  garnish. 

Method. — Divide  the  chicken  into  neat  pieces,  and  fry  them  in  salad- 
oil  until  nicely  browned, then  drain  well  and  pour  away  the  oil.  Heat  up 
the  Espagnole  sauce  with  the  tomato  pulp,  replace  the  chicken  in  the 
stewpan,  add  the  sherry,  mushrooms  and  olives  whole,  the  truffle  cut 
into  large  pieces,  and  simmer  gently  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour, 
or  until  the  chicken  i*  tender.  When  done,  pile  in  the  centre  of  a  hot 
dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  garnish  with  the  mushrooms,  olives 
and  truffle.  Place  a  few  fleurons,  i.e.,  half-moon  or  crescent-shaped 
pieces  of  puff  pastry,  or  croutes  of  fried  bread,  round  the  dish. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  53.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

FOWLS. — The  name  sometimes  applied  to  birds  of  large  size,  but  more  usually  restricted  to  those 
of  the  genus  Callus,  of  which  the  domestic  fowl  is  a  familiar  example.  Such  birds  form  a  typical 
group  of  Rasores,  or  "  scratchers."  They  are  furnished  with  strong  beaks  and  claws,  and  the  heads 
of  the  males  are  distinguished  by  a  comb,  brightly  coloured  and  frequently  erectile,  their  legs  are 
provided  with  spurs  used  in  conflict,  the  cock  being  a  very  pugnacious  bird,  and  resenting  the  pre- 
sence of  a  rival.  The  plumage  of  the  male  bird  is  much  more  brilliant  than  that  of  the  female,  except 
in  the  case  of  the  pure  white  breeds,  the  long  feathers  of  the  cock's  tail,  with  their  graceful  curve, 
adding  beauty  to  the  appearance  of  the  bird.  The  fowl  is  interesting  from  its  susceptibility  to 
variation  under  domestication.  Its  original  habitat  appears  to  have  been  Eastern  Asia  and 
the  Malayan  Archipelago.  The  Bankiva  Jungle  Fowl,  a  native  of  Java,  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  original  stock  from  which  the  domesticated  varieties  have  been  derived.  Among  the 
numerous  breeds  or  varieties  are  the  Common  or  Barndoor  fowl,  a  bird  of  no  special  breed,  but  repre- 
senting interbreeding  between  various  varieties  :  the  Cochin-China  fowl,  the  Polish  fowl,  the  Spanish 
fowl,  the  Hamburg,  the  Dorking,  the  Bantam  and  the  Game  fowl.  The  term  chicken  is  applied 
to  the  young  female  bird,  from  the  period  it  is  hatched  until  it  is  four  months  old  ;  after  that  age 
until  they  begin  to  lay  they  are  called  pullets,  and  subsequently  hens. 

1150.— CHICKEN,  BOILED,  TURKISH  STYLE. 

(Fr.— Poulet  Bouilli  a  la  Turque.) 

Ingredients. — i  chicken  or  fowl,  \  a  Ib.  of  boiled  rice,  \  a  pint  of 
tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces  No.  281),  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of 
cornflour,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  chicken  and  cut  it  into  neat  joints.  Melt  the 
butter,  fry  the  shallot  slightly,  add  the  tomato  sauce,  and  when  thor- 
oughly hot  put  in  the  pieces  of  chicken,  and  simmer  very  gently  for 
25  minutes.  A  few  minutes  before  serving  add  the  cornflour  previ- 
ously blended  with  a  little  cold  water.  Arrange  the  chicken  neatly 
in  a  border  of  boiled  rice,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  45.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

1151.— CHICKEN,  BOMBS  OF.     (Fr.—  Petites  Bombes 
de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  raw  chicken,  i  oz.  of  flour,  \  an  oz.  of  butter, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  671 

£  a  gill  of  water,  3  whites  of  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  chopped 
parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  £  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No. 
178). 

Method. — Pass  the  chicken  2  or  3  times  through  a  mincing  machine, 
or  chop  it  finely.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour, 
add  the  water,  boil  well,  then  turn  the  panada  or  culinary  paste  on  to 
a  plate  to  cool.  Pound  the  chicken  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  adding 
the  panada  gradually,  and  each  white  of  egg  separately.  Season  to 
taste,  and  rub  through  a  fine  wire  sieve.  Have  ready  the  bomb  moulds 
thickly  coated  with  clarified  butter,  and  sprinkle  their  entire  surface 
with  chopped  parsley.  Whip  the  cream  slightly,  stir  it  lightly  into  the 
chicken  puree,  and  pipe  the  mixture  into  the  moulds.  Place  them  in  a 
stew-pan  containing  boiling  water  to  about  half  their  depth,  cover 
with  a  buttered  paper,  put  on  the  lid,  and  cook  gently  for  20  or  25 
minutes.  Arrange  them  in  2  rows  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  hot  sauce 
round,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes,  to  cook  the  bombs.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d. 
to  45.  Sufficient  for  10  or  1 2  bombs,  according  to  size. 

1 152. -CHICKEN,   BOMBS  OF  (Cold).     (Fr.-Petites 
Bombes  de  Volaille  a  la  Gelee.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  cooked  chicken,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  white 
sauce,  i  tablcspoonful  of  sherry,  £  a  gill  of  thick  cream,  \  a  pint  of  aspic 
jelly,  4  sheets  of  gelatine,  dressed  salad.  For  coating  the  moulds  : 
aspic  jelly,  cream,  small  green  peas,  truffle,  chili,  or  other  decoration. 

Method. — Coat  the  moulds  thinly  with  aspic  jelly,  decorate  them 
tastefully  with  truffle,  or  whatever  is  preferred,  set  with  aspic  jelly, 
then  line  with  aspic  cream,  made  by  combining  cold  liquid  aspic  jelly 
and  cream  in  equal  quantities.  Chop  the  chicken  finely,  pound  in  a 
mortar  until  smooth,  adding  seasoning,  white  sauce,  and  sherry  by 
degrees.  Rub  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  then  add  the  nearly  cold 
aspic  jelly  ^in  which  the  gelatine  must  have  been  previously  <li->olvr<l  , 
and  the  cream  stiffly  whipped,  mix  all  lightly  but  thoroughly  together, 
and  turn  into  the  moulds.  When  cold  serve  on  a  bed  of  dn 
and  garnish  with  aspic  jelly,  cucumber,  tufts  of  endive,  or  other  suitable 
garnish. 

Average  Cost. — 35.  to  35.  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  chicken.  Sufficient  for 
8  or  10  small  moulds. 

TIIF  FORKING  derives  its  name  from  the  town  of  that  name  in  Surrey,  where  the  breed  cxi<K  in 
(Treat  perfection.     The  colour  of  the  true  Dorking  is  pure  white  ;  the  bird  is 

its  possession 
inber  the  foot. 
•;.it   r.irtirular  breed 
' 

ti.ni  i  >n  tin-  ,.f  tlir  1  itti-r  i"  tlif  fi'iiiu-r.  .ni«l  the    f.u  t    ih  it    the 

•  *  k,  alth'Hi;  MI.U^II  white  stock  from  Dorking 


672  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1153.— CHICKEN,   BOUDINS  OF.      (Fr.— Boudins  de 
Volaille  a  la  Richelieu.) 

Ingredients. — For  the  farce,  or  stuffing  :  £  a  Ib.  of  raw  chicken,  i  oz. 
of  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  \  a  gill  of  stock  (made  from  chicken  bones), 
i  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  nutmeg.  For  the  salpicoii,  or  mince  of  game 
or  poultry  :  i  sweetbread,  or  a  few  lambs'  throat  breads,  i  slice  of 
tongue,  6  preserved  mushrooms,  i  large  truffle,  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls 
of  white  sauce,  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the 
stock,  boil  well,  then  turn  the  panada,  or  culinary  paste,  on  a  plate  to  cool. 
Chop  the  chicken  meat  finely,  or  pass  it  through  a  mincing  machine, 
pound  it  in  the  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  the  panada  and  egg  grad- 
ually, then  season  to  taste,  and  rub  through  a  fine  wire  sieve.  Blanch 
and  cook  the  sweetbread  in  stock,  cut  it  and  the  tongue,  mushrooms 
and  truffle  into  small  dice,  moisten  with  the  white  sauce,  and  season 
well.  Have  ready  8  or  10  boudin  or  quenelle  moulds  well  coated  with 
clarified  butter,  line  them  evenly  and  rather  thickly  with  the  chicken 
farce,  fill  with  the  salpicon,  cover  with  farce,  and  smooth  the  surface 
with  a  hot,  wet  knife.  Place  them  in  a  saute-pan,  surround  them  to  half 
their  depth  with  boiling  water,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  cook 
in  a  moderate  oven  from  25  to  30  minutes.  Unmould,  and,  when  cool, 
coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  golden-brown 
in  hot  fat.  Drain  well,  arrange  neatly  on  a  folded  serviette  or  dish- 
paper,  and  serve  with  hot  ravigote  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  43.  6d.  to  55. 
Sufficient  for  8  or  10  boudins. 

1154.— CHICKEN,  CASSEROLE  OF.    (Fr.— Poulet  en 
Casserole.) 

Ingredients. — i  chicken,  4  to  6  oz.  of  streaky  bacon,  2  ozs.  of  but- 
ter, i  shallot,  finely-chopped,  2  tabiespoonfuls  of  coarsely-chopped 
mushrooms,  preferably  fresh  ones,  stock,  i  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  chicken  into  neat  joints.  Heat  i  oz.  of  butter 
in  a  casserole  just  large  enough  to  hold  the  chicken,  and  fry  in  it  the 
bacon  cut  into  strips.  Then  put  in  the  chicken,  add  the  shallot 
and  mushrooms,  cover,  and  cook  slowly.  Turn  the  pieces  over, 
and  when  both  sides  are  nicely  browned,  add  stock  to  barely  cover, 
and  season  to  taste.  Knead  the  flour  and  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter 
together,  and  add  the  mixture  in  small  pieces,  about  1 5  minutes  before 
serving.  The  chicken  should  be  served  in  the  casserole,  but  it  may,  if 
preferred,  be  turned  on  to  a  hot  dish. 

Time. — From  i£  to  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  43.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


POULTRY. 


Ifroid  of  Capon.     2.  Chicken  Qucnclk-s  and  Peas.     3.  Fricassee  of  Chicken. 
39  Z 


ENTREES. 


i.  Mould  of  Chicken.       2.  Quenelles  of  Quail  (Cold).       3.  Braized  Fillets  of 
Duckling  in  Paste  Border. 


40 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   POULTRY  673 

1155.— CHICKEN  CREAM.    (Fr.— Creme  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. —  \  a  Ib.  of  raw  chicken,  free  from  bone  and  skin,  $  of 
a  pint  of  thick  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces  No.  178),  £  of  a  pint  of 
double  cream,  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  truffles. 

Method. — Chop  the  chicken  meat  finely,  pound  it  in  a  mortar  until 
smooth,  adding  the  egg  and  white  sauce  gradually,  and  pass  the  in- 
gredients through  a  wire  sieve.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  stir  it  lightly 
in,  and  season  to  taste.  Turn  the  mixture  into  I  large  or  6  or  7  very 
small  buttered  moulds  and  steam  gently  until  firm.  Dish  up  and 
sauce  over.  Server  garnished  with  tru fries,  and  send  a  boat  of 
.amel  or  other  suitable  sauce  to  table  separately. 

Time. — To  steam  in  I  mould,  about  30  minutes;  in  small  moulds, 
about  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  35.  6d.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

PENCILLFP  HVMBCRG. — This  variety  of  the  Hamburg  fowl  is  of  two  colours,  golden  and  silver 
narked.     The  hens  of  both  these  varieties  have  the  body  pencilled  across  with 

.  ime — and  the  hackle  in  both  sexes  of  good  breed  ; 
ks  do  not  exhibit  the  pencilling*,  but  are  white  and  brown  res; 

•  •d  Hamburg*  are  compact  in  form,  and  spi  :--ht!\-  and  grace- 
The  hens  lay  abundantly,  but  are  not  sitters.     They  are  imported 
id,  and  are  also  bred  in  England,  the  latter  being  much  superior   in  si/e. 
known  in  various  parts  of  the  country  as  "  Chitteprats,"  "  Creoles  "  or  "  Corals," 
^  and  greys,"  and  in  tome  parts  of  Yorkshire  are  called  "  Corsican  fowls." 

1156.— CHICKEN,  CREPINETTES  OF.     (Fr.— Crepin- 
ettes  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  cooked  chicken,  2  oz.  cooked  ham,  4  button 
mushi  truffle,  i  yolk  of  egg,  2  or  3  t  'iifuls  of 

white  sauce,  salt  and  pepper,  pig's  caul,  ±  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (see 

>'S). 

Method. — Cut  the  chicken,  ham,  mushrooms,  and  truffle  into  shreds 
about  i  inch  in  length,  add  the  yolk  of  ei;g  to  the  hot  sauce,  season  to 
put  in  the  shrcdd  licnts,  stir  by  the  side  of  the  1: 

de  until  cold  (this  is  called  the  Salpicon). 

dry  it,  and  cut  it  into  4-inch  sqi 

Knfold  a  d<  s  ertspoonful  of  the  mixture  in  each  piece  of  caul,  form  into 

:i  in  tlu-  oven  for  f>   minut< 
r  coat  them  with 
crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  I-  >  bed  of  spinach  or  preen 

and  pour  the  :nd. 

Time.  -  About   i    hour.      Average  Cost,    is.  oxl.    to  2s.       Sufficient  for 
t  4  or  5  persons. 


674  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1157.— CHICKEN,    CROQUETTES    OF.        (Fr.— Cro- 
quettes de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — 6  to  8  ozs.  of  cold  chicken  or  fowl  (boned),  2  ozs.  of 
cooked  ham  or  tongue,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
I  tablespoonful  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  6  button  mush- 
rooms, i  truffle,  salt  and  pepper,  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Chop  the  chicken  and  ham  or  tongue  finely,  cut  the  mush- 
rooms and  truffle  into  small  pieces.  Melt  the  butter,  fry  the  flour 
without  browning,  add  the  stock,  and  cook  well.  Stir  in  the  chicken, 
ham  or  tongue,  cream,  lemon-juice,  mushrooms  and  truffle,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  turn  on  to  a  plate  to  cool.  Make  into  cork- 
shaped  croquettes,  coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry 
until  lightly  browned  in  hot  fat. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2S.  Sufficient  for  about  6 
persons. 

1158.— CHICKEN    KROMESKIS.     (Fr.    Cromes   Quis 
de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — Make  a  salpicon  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  as 
many  small  very  thin  slices  of  bacon  as  there  are  cork-shaped  pieces 
of  the  mixture.  For  the  batter  :  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  i  egg, 
salt,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Mix  the  above  ingredients  into  a  smooth  batter,  and  add 
to  it  i  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Wrap  each  piece  of  the  chicken  mixture  in  a  slice  of  bacon,  dip  into 
a  light  batter  prepared  from  the  above  named  ingredients,  and  fry  in 
a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat.  Drain,  and  serve  garnished  with  parsley. 

Time. — i  hour.  Probable  Cost,  is.  9d.,  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  about 
6  persons. 

1159.— CHICKEN,  CUTLETS  OF.     (Fr.— Cotelettes  de 
Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  cold  chicken,  J  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  -£  a  shallot  finely-chopped, 
salt  and  pepper,  nutmeg,  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Chop  the  chicken  finely.  Fry  the  shallot  and  flour  in  the 
butter  without  browning,  add  the  stock,  and  boil  well.  Put  in  the 
chicken,  add  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  stir  over  the  fire  until 
thoroughly  hot,  then  add  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  cook  the  ingredients 
for  2  or  3  minutes  longer.  Cool  the  mixture  ;  when  firm,  shape  into 
cutlets,  egg  and  crumb  them,  and  fry  in  deep  fat.  Drain  well,  arrange 
them  in  a  close  circle  on  a  dish  paper,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and 


K1AIPES    FOR    COPKINVr    POULTRY  675 

3  oz.  of   lean  ham,  finely  chopped,  may  be  added  to 
the  chicken  if  liked. 
Time. —  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.      Sufficient  for  about  7  persons. 


1  160.  —  CHICKEN,  ESCALOPES  OF.    (Fr.—  Escalopes 
de  Poulet.) 

Ingredients.  —  The  legs  of  a  large  u  ncooked  chicken,  $  alb.  of  lean 

Ib.  of  bacon  (a  corresponding  amount  of  sausage-meat  may  be 
;  tuted  for-  \  and  bacon),  6  mushrooms,  i  truffle,  2  yolks  of 

eggs,  i  pint  of  stock,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  \\  ozs.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful 
drops  of  lemon-juice,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  $  a  small 
turnip,  i  strip  of  a-K-ry,  a  bouquet-garni   (parsley,   thyme,  bay 
nd  pepper,  spinach  p- 

Method.  eal  and  bacon    are    used,  chop  and  pound  them 

smoothly,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.     Add  to  this  puree  ol 
rooms  an-'  cut  into 

.d  with  the  2  yolks  of  eggs.     Bone  the  t  with 

rcpared  farce  or  stuffing,  shaping  them  as  much  hk 

\\  ozs.  of  butter  and  the  s'. 

pan,  lay  the  chicken  leijs  on  the  top,  cover,  and  fry  pently  for  r«  >  minutes. 
-lock  to  I   the  depth  of  the  v  place  a  buttered  paper 

he  chicken  legs,  put  on  the  lid,  and  cook  gently  for  i  ho 

ag  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  over  the 

fire  until  a  brown  roux,  or  thickening,  is  formed.  ie  chicken 

re  sufficiently  cooked,  remove  them  and  keep  them  hot  . 
»ck  on  to  the  brown  rotix,  stir  until  b<  .tncr  for  20  mi; 

.dd  the  si  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and  keep  hot  until 

-en  legs  into  $-inch  slices,  arrange  them  slightly 
t*  each  other  on  the  bed  of  spinach,  strain  the  sauce  i 

Time.  —  About  \\  hours.   ArerageCost,  33.    Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
1  161.—  CHICKEN  FOR  INVALIDS. 

See  "Chicken,   Ramakins  of."  No.  1186.    "Chicken.  Small   Soufll6 
hicken,  Soufftt  of,"  No.  i  u,  ]ada/( 

178  ;   also  Chapter  on  "  Invalid  Cookery." 


e*  the  Bantam  was  introduced  into  Europe  it  has  differ- 
more  or  less  ekgant.  and  some  remarkable  for  their  beaut  v.  Thr 
hould  be  of  small 

grace.      The  most    popular   variety  is  remarkable  for   the  Imnl  or    teams  of   the    k?v 
^  ttifl  Icxic  f  •  ie  ground.     This  variety  is  ra 

pure  state.     Another  variety  to  red  with  a  black  breast  and  stack  dentated  comb,  with  smooth 

miniature,  both  as  regards 

co,,ra,-r  MM]  lpWt,an1  .v      .  •    .      !.        .     ,s  .-   :  -If.;...         .    ;       •     wi,t      !;•      :     u         . 

t        -  .....   ',    .   :.    - 


676  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1162.— CHICKEN    FORCEMEAT.         (Fr.—  Farce    de 
Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  raw  chicken,  free  from  bone,  loz.  of  flour, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg,  \  a  gill  of  chicken  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock,  boil  well 
and  let  the  panada  or  culinary  paste  cool  slightly.  Cut  up  and  pound 
the  chicken  meat  in  the  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  the  egg,  and  the 
panada  by  degrees.  Season  to  taste,  rub  through  a  fine  wire  or  hair 
sieve,  and  use  for  quenelles,  cutlets,  boudins,  bombes,  timbales,  etc. 
Before  moulding  or  shaping  the  farce,  its  constituency  should  be 
tested,  and  if  found  too  firm  a  little  cream  may  be  added. 

1163.— CHICKEN  FRIED  IN  BATTER.    (Fr.— Frican- 
delles  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — Chicken  mixture  as  for  croquettes  of  chicken,  No.  1157, 
egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat.  For  the  batter  :  4  ozs.  of  flour,  \  a  pint 
of  milk,  i  egg,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Make  the  chicken  mixture  as  directed.  Mix  the  flour, 
milk,  egg  and  salt  into  a  smooth  batter,  and  prepare  some  very  thin 
pancakes.  As  each  one  is  fried,  spread  the  meat  preparation  over 
one  side  and  roll  up  tightly.  When  cold,  cut  across  into  2  or  3  pieces, 
about  i\  inches  in  length,  coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in 
deep  fat.  Drain  well,  and  serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  7  or 
8  persons. 

1164.— CHICKEN,  FRICASSEED.      (Fr.— Fricassee  de 
Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — i  boiled  chicken,  i  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces), 
\  a  gill  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  chicken  before  it  is  quite  cold  into  neat  joints. 
Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  put  in  the  pieces  of  chicken,  let  them 
remain  until  thoroughly  hot.  Add  the  yolks  and  cream  previously 
blended,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  sauce  thickens, 
without  boiling.  Season  to  taste,  add  the  lemon-juice,  arrange 
neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  and  strain  the  sauce  over.  The  dish  may  be 
garnished  with  truffle  or  cooked  green  peas,  and  the  fricassee  served 
in  a  border  of  mashed  potato  if  desired. 

Time. — About  f  of  an  hour,  after  the  chicken  is  boiled.  Average  Cost, 
35.  6d.  to  45.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  677 

1 165. -CHICKEN,     FRITOT      OF.      (Fr.— Fritot      de 
Poulet). 

Ingredients. — Cold  chicken,  either  roast  or  boiled.  For  the  marinade 
or  liquor  :  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon- 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chbppcd  onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  £  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  For  the  batter  :  4  ozs. 
of  Hour,  £  of  a  pint  of  tepid  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil,  the 
whites  of  2  eggs,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  frying- fat. 

Method. — Cut  the  chicken  into  small  joints,  remove  the  skin,  trim 
the  pieces  neatly,  place  them  in  a  deep  dish,  pour  over  the  marinade, 
and  let  them  remain  in  it  for  i£  hours,  turning  them  frequently.  Mix 
the  flour,  salt,  water,  and  salad-oil  into  a  smooth  batter,  let  it  stand 
for  i  hour,  then  stir  in  lightly  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Drain 
the  pieces  of  chicken  well,  dip  them  into  the  batter,  and  fry  until  nicely 
browned  in  hot  fat.  Drain  from  the  fat,  arrange  neatly  on  a  dish- 
paper,  garnish  with  crisply-fried  parsley,  and  serve.  Tartare  or  tomato 
sauce  should  be  served  separately  in  a  sauceboat. 

Time. — Altogether,  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  45.  6d.,  \ 
a  large  chicken  is  used.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

SIR  JOHN  SEBRICMT'S  BANTAMS.— This  celebrated  breed,  which  Sir  John  Sebright,  after  many 
years  of  careful  experiment,  brought  to  perfection,  is  considered  to  be  the  best  and  most  beautiful 
of  Bantam  fowls.     The  bird  is  very  small,  with  unfrathercd  legs,  and  a  rose-comb  and  short  hackles, 
^old  or  span :  :her  being  of  a  golden-orange  or  a  silver- white  colour,  with 

c  male  is  folded  like  that  of  thr  hen.  with  the  sickle  feather* 
•raight.  and  broader  th.in  in  other  varieties  of  the  Bantam.     It 


•ul  irlv  proiul.  rroi  t  and  g.illant  carriage,  throwing  back  the  head  until 
.  t  hers  of  the  tail.    Half-bred  birds  of  this  kiud  are  not  uncommon, 
but  the  pure  breed  is  highly  valued. 

1 166.— CHICKEN  GRILLED  WITH  MUSHROOM 
SAUCE.  (Fr.— Poulet  Grille  aux  Cham- 
pignons.) 

Ingredients. —  i  chicken,  $  Ib.  lean   raw  ham,  £  a  pint    of    1 
sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  j  button  mushrooms,  salad-oil  or 

<>ilrd    butter,   a  crouton  of  fri- 

Method.— Divide    the   chicken    into   pieces   convenient    for   s<  i 

the  sauce  as  directed,  add  to  it  the  mushrooms,  season  to  taste, 
and  keep  hot  until  required.     Cut  the  crouton  to  fit  the  dish,  and  fry 
it  until  lightly  browned  in  hot  fat.     Cut   the   ham   into  short   , 
and  fi  over  with  salad-oil  or  oiled 

1  them  over  or  in  front  Arrange  neatly 

on  t  h<  strain  the  sauce  round,  and  garnish  with  groups  of  mush- 

d  h.xm. 

Time.     To  .t^nll   i  dx>ut   15   minutes.     Average  Cost 

Sufficient  for  .\  or  5  jv  rsons. 


678  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1167.— CHICKEN  GUMBO.  (See  American  Cookery.) 

1 168.— CHICKEN  ITALIAN.  (Fr.-Poulet  a  1'Italienne.) 

See  "  Chicken  with  Italian  Sauce,"  No.  1204. 

1169.— CHICKEN  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — i  chicken  or  fowl,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  chicken  into  small  pieces  and  put  them  into  a 
stewing- jar  with  about  i  pint  of  water  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
cook  it  in  a  moderately  cool  oven  for  2  hours.  Cut  the  flesh  off  the 
breast,  wings  and  legs  in  thin  slices,  replace  the  bones  and  trimmings  in 
the  stew-jar,  and  cook  as  rapidly  as  possible  on  the  stove  for  \  an  hour. 
Meanwhile  arrange  the  slices  of  chicken  in  a  mould  or  piedish,  leaving 
a  space  at  the  sides,  and  as  much  space  as  possible  between  the  layers, 
to  be  afterwards  filled  with  stock.  When  the  stock  is  ready,  strain 
it,  season  to  taste,  let  it  cool  slightly,  and  pour  it  over  the  chicken. 
Turn  out  when  cold,  and  serve  as  a  breakfast  or  luncheon  dish. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  i  mould  of  medium  size.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  POLAVD. — This  bird,  a  native  of  Holland,  is  a  great  favourite  with  fowl-keepers,  from  the 
great  number  of  eggs  which  the  birds  of  this  variety  produce,  a  circumstance  which  has  caused 
Polands  in  many  parts  to  be  known  as  the  "  everlasting  layers."  From  observation  of  the  number 
of  eggs  produced  by  this  prolific  fowl,  it  was  found  that  in  one  year  five  hens  laid  no  less  than  503 
eggs,  the  average  weight  of  each  egg  was  i  oz.  and  5  drachms,  the  total  weight  of  the  whole,  exclu- 
sive of  the  shells,  amounting  to  50!  Ib.  The  common  black  breed  is  plain  in  appearance,  and  hns 
a  bushy  crown  of  white  feathers  ;  other  varieties,  as  the  "  silver-spangled  "  and  the  "  gold- 
snangled,"  ate  handsome  birds.  The  Poland  is  easily  fattened,  and  its  flesh  is  considered  to  be 
more  juicy  and  of  a  richer  flavour  than  many  other  fowls. 

1170.— CHICKEN  KLOPPS. 

See  "  Indian  Cookery." 

1171.— CHICKEN  LEGS  AS  CUTLETS.  (Fr.—  Cuisses 
de  Volaille  en  Cotelettes.) 

Ingredients. — Chickens'  legs,  slices  of  bacon,  stock,  Espagnole  sauce 
(see  "  Sauces,"  No.  244),  2  onions"  sliced,  2  carrots  sliced,  i  small  tur- 
nip sliced,  8  peppercorns,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  thigh  bones,  but  leave  the  drumstick,  season 
the  legs  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  fold  the  skin  under.  Shape  as 
much  like  a  cutlet  as  possible,  enfold  each  leg  in  a  piece  of  muslin, 
and  fasten  securely.  Put  the  vegetables,  bouquet-garni  and  pepper- 
corns into  a  stewpan,  nearly  cover  them  with  stock,  and  lay  the  legs 
on  the  top.  Cover  each  one  with  a  slice  of  bacon,  place  a  greased  paper 
over  the  whole,  put  on  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  cook  gently  for  about 
i  hour.  Remove  the  muslin  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over,  or 
they  may  be  glazed  a.nd  have  the  sauce  poured  round.  If  preferred, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  679 

the  legs  may  be  enclosed  in  a  pig's  caul,  instead  of  muslin,  in  which 

case  they  should  be  browned  in  a  hot  oven,  and  glazed  before  serving. 

Time. — To  braise,  from  i  to  ij  hours.     Average  Cost,  accessories  to  4 

chicken  legs,  about  is.  Allow  i  leg  to  each  person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

H72.-CHICKEN    LEGS,    STUFFED.      (Fr.— Cuisses 
de  Volaille  Farcies.) 

Ingredients. — The  legs  of  a  cold  fowl,  i  tablespoonful  of  sweet  oil,  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
sweet  herbs,  $  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  lemon  rind,  2  slices  of 
onion  (blanched  and  chopped),  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
i  egg,  4  slices  of  streaky  bacon,  2  slices  of  toasted  buttered  bread, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  each  leg  into  2  joints,  and  saw  off  the  drumsticks, 
place  them  on  a  plate,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  moisten  with 
a  little  sweet  oil.  Tut  the  breadcrumbs,  lemon  rind,  sweet  herbs, 
onion  and  parsley  in  a  basin,  mix  well,  moisten  with  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  and  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  tiny  pinch  of  cayenne. 
Drain  the  chicken's  legs,  cover  each  with  the  farce  or  stuffing 
above  prepared,  then  wrap  up  in  a  slice  of  bacon,  tie  with  twine,  or 
r  them  securely.  Place  them  on  a  greased  baking-tin  or  sante- 
p.m.  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  about  20  minutes.  Cut  each  slice  of 
1  bread  in  two,  trim  neatly,  dress  the  chicken's  legs  on  these, 
dish  up,  garnish  \vilh  a  few  sprigs  of  curly  ]>ar>ley,  and  srrvc  hot. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  pd. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

TMK  Si  H  vi  TA-OOK.  OR  FOWLS  OF  THE  SULTAV. — This  fowl,  which  was  first  intnxl 
land  in  1851  from  Const.intim.pl.-.  .me  from  the  Turkish  sarai,  "  It 

ta-ook,  "  fowl.  l«risk  birds,  exrellrnt  l.iyors.  but  n»t  u  **!  lit 

esemblc  the  a  white 

.:id  tuft  on  t!  muffled,  havt 

.;*,  and  5  toes  on  each  foot.     T:  misting  only  of 

two  lit  t:  <  arc  small.     The  colour  of  the  bird  is  pure  white. 

1173.— CHICKEN    LIVER   PATTIES.    (Fr.— Pates    de 
Foie  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients.—Chicken    livers,    butter,   brown    sauce    (see    "  Sauces," 

No.  233),  rough  put!  paste,  salt 

Method,      i  the  gall  and  :id  dry  the  livers,  cut  them 

t»ss  them  in   hot  butter  over  the  ; 

•  1  \vii!».  thinly  rolled 

out   ]).iste.   till   them  with  liver,  season   highly   with   >alt     and     j  •• 
and  a<ld  a  little  hnnvn  MUtCe.      (  <>v<  :  with  JM->!C,  brush  over  with  beaten 
in  a   moderately-hot  oven  for  about  jo   minutes,  and 
her  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  20  minut--;.    Average  Cost,  2d.  each.     Allow 
Seasonable    at  any  tun--. 


68o  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1174.— CHICKEN  LIVERS  ON  TOAST. 

See  Chapter  on  "  Savouries." 

1175.— CHICKEN,  MAYONNAISE  OF.     (Fr.— Mayon- 
naise de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — i  cold  boiled  chicken  or  fowl,  £  of  a  pint  of  Mayonnaise 
sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  201),  £  of  a  pint  of  aspic  jelly,  dressed  salad. 

Method. — Cut  up  the  chicken  into  small  joints,  remove  all  the  skin 
and  ends  of  bones,  and  shape  the  pieces  as  neatly  as  possible.  Dissolve 
the  aspic  jelly;  when  cool  enough,  add  it  to  the  Mayonnaise  sauce  and 
mask  the  chicken.  To  facilitate  the  masking  process  place  the  pieces 
of  chicken  on  a  wire  tray  and  pour  over  the  sauce  carefully  by  means 
of  a  tablespoon.  When  the  sauce  is  set,  decorate  tastefully  with 
truffle  and  chervil,  and  mask  with  a  thin  layer  of  liquid  Aspic.  Arrange 
neatly  on  a  dish  on  a  bed  of  dressed  salad,  and  garnish  the  side  of  the 
dish  with  sprigs  of  endive,  slices  of  cucumber  and  blocks  of  aspic  jelly. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  9d.  to  55.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

1176.— CHICKEN,  MINCE  OF,  BREADED. 

(Fr. — Poulet  au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  coarsely-chopped  cooked  chicken,  free  from 
bone,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham,  £  a  pint  of 
Bechamel  sauce,  (see  Sauces,  No.  178)  breadcrumbs,  butter,  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  chicken  and  ham  together,  stir  in  the  sauce,  which 
should  thoroughly  moisten  the  whole,  otherwise  more  sauce  must  be 
added.  Season  to  taste,  add  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  turn  the  mixture 
into  6  or  8  well-buttered  scallop  shells.  Cover  lightly  with  breadcrumbs, 
add  2  or  3  small  pieces  of  butter,  bake  in  a  moderately-hot  oven  until 
nicely  browned,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  6  to  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  Sd.,  exclusive  of 
the  chicken.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

VARIOUS  MODES  OF  FATTENING  FOWLS.— It  is  considered  by  some  fowl-keepers  that  the  flesh  of  a 
healthy  well-fed  fowl,  which  has  lived  a  free,  out-of-door  life,  is  both  in  flavour  and  wholcsomeness 
preferable  to  a  bird  kept  in  confinement  and  compulsorily  fed.  If,  however,  special  fattening  is 
resorted  to,  the  birds  should  be  confined  in  a  clean  warm  pen  or  run,  and  fed  three  or  four  times 
a  day  on  as  much  soft  food  as  they  will  eat,  care  being  taken  to  feed  them  very  early  in  the 
morning  and  as  late  as  possible  at  night.  When  specially  fattened  for  the  market  the  fowls  are  kept 
in  the  dark,  which  encourages  them  to  rest — an  essential  to  the  laying  on  of  flesh.  The  foods  chiefly 
used  for  fattening  are  ground  oats,  whole  wheat-meal,  maize-meal  and  buckwheat-meal;  the  last 
should  always  be  included  among  the  food ;  fatty  substances,  as  suet,  are  added  by  some 
to  increase  the  fatness  of  the  fowl.  The  true  object,  however,  should  be  to  develop  abundance  of 
good,  wholesome  flesh.  Milk,  either  new  or  skimmed,  is  a  valuable  addition  to  the  food,  with  whirh 
it  should  be  mixed  hot.  Three  weeks  is  the  usual  period  for  fattening  a  fowl. 

1177.— CHICKEN,  MINCED.     (Fr.— Poulet  Emince.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  chicken;  to  each  £  Ib.  allow  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz. 
of  flour,  \  a  pint  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  poached  eggs. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOK  I  NO    POULTRY  681 

Method. — Chop  the  chicken  finely,  boil  the  bones  and  trimmings 
for  at  least  i£  hours,  and  use  the  stock  for  the  sauce.  Melt  the  butter, 
stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock  and  boil  gently  for  20  minutes.  Season 
to  taste,  add  the  minced  chicken,  draw  the  stcwpan  aside,  then  let  it 
remain  until  the  contents  are  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve  garnished 
with  neatly  poached  and  trimmed  eggs. 

Time. — Allow  J  of  an  hour,  after  the  stock  is  made.     Average  Cost, 
is.  3d.,  exclusive  of    the  chicken.     Allow  i  lb.  of  chicken  and  (> 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

1 1 78.— CHICKEN  PANADA.  (Fr.— Panade  de  Volaille. ) 

Ingredients. — 4  to  «;  ozs.  of  raw  ihu  ken,  J  a  gill  of  cream,  pepper  and 

Method. — Pass  the  chicken  lived  from  skin  and  bone  2  or  3  times 
h  a  mincing  machine, then  place  it  in  a  buttered  jar,  cover  closely, 
the  jar  ma-  <  ontainint;  a  lit  tie  boil;  :  sim- 

ntly  for  nearly  i  hour,     I'-uin-i  ;n  a  mortar,  adding 

i  son  to  taste,  and  pass  the  mixture  thr> 
Whip  •  r  in  the  chicken  preparation, 

and  serve  on  toast  or  in  ramakin 
be  heated   in  d  on  hot  buttered  t< 

Time.  T«»  cook  the  chicken,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  about 
is.  Sd.  Sufficient  for  _•  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  ti: 

the  s.uw  sice,  for.  as  a  rule,  eggs  equ 
at  both  rnds  •  <!k,  and  are  worthless.     Egn  intended  for 

-  >  place  under  a  hen  ;  in  WAI  met  we.ithfr  ' 
t  it   l»>  vrrv  ti  t   t  >  fifteen      The  egg»  should  be  carefully  t- 

seventh  or  <••  be  sufficiently 

^rrve  excel!'- 

::iust  be  carefully  replaced  under  the  hen  without  shaking. 
•.•  should  b«  broken,  it  must  be  removed,  ai. 

wfse  the  contents  of  the  broken  egg  will  cause  the  other- 

••.•->•  too  may  become  fractured.     Many  eggs  are  now  hatched  by 

;s,  at  a  steady  temperature  of  tox"  to  104*.     It  is  important  that  eggs  hatcht 

: 


H79.-CHICKEN    PATTIES.       (Fr.-Bouchees    a    la 
Reine.) 

Ingredients. — 4  to  6   ozs.  of   cold  boiled  chicken,  2  ozs.    of   c< 

ham,  6  button  mushrooms,    i    trufrie,    i    teaspoonful  of    lemon 
salt    and  pepper,  J  of   a  pint  of  Ik'-ch.  «  e  (sec  Sa 

puff  j-> 

Method.     Chopthi  nd  ham  not  too  finelv,  cut  the  muslirooms 

and  tr  .and  mix  all  together.  Stamp  out 9 or  10 patty 

d  mark  the  O  ith  a  smaller  • 

out  the  aoi  s  hot  until 


682  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

required.  Have  the  Bechamel  sauce  ready  in  a  stewpan,  add  to  it 
the  chicken  preparation,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  in  the  lemon- 
juice,  and  stir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot.  Fill 
the  cases,  put  on  the  lids,  and  serve,  garnished  with  tufts  of  fresh  or 
fried  parsley. 

Time. — To  bake  the  pastry,  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
is.  6d.  to  2S.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9  patties. 

HATCHING. — Sometimes  the  chick  within  the  shell  is  unable  to  break  away  from  its  prison  ;  for 
the  white  of  the  egg  will  occasionally  harden  in  the  air  to  the  consistence  of  joiners'  glue,  when  the 
poor  chick  is  in  a  terrible  fix.  Aii  able  writer  says  :  "  Assistance  in  hatching  must  not  be  ren- 
dered prematurely,  and  thence  unnecessarily,  but  only  in  the  case  of  the  chick  being  plainly  unable 
to  release  itself  ;  then,  indeed,  an  addition  may  probably  be  made  to  the  brood,  as  great  numbers 
are  always  lost  in  this  way.  The  chick  makes  a  circular  fracture  at  the  big  end  of  the  egg,  and 
a  section  of  about  one- third  of  the  length  of  the  shell  being  separated,  delivers  the  prisoner,  pro- 
vided there  is  no  obstruction  from  adhesion  of  the  body  to  the  membrane  which  lines  the  shell. 
Between  the  body  oi  the  chick  and  the  membrane  of  the  shell  there  exists  a  viscous  fluid,  the  white 
of  the  egg  thickened  with  the  intense  heat  of  incubation,  until  it  becomes  a  positive  glue.  When 
this  happens  the  feathers  stick  fast  to  the  shell,  and  the  chicks  remain  confined,  and  must  perish 
if  not  released." 

The  method  of  assistance  to  be  rendered  to  chicks  which  have  a  difficulty  in  releasing  them- 
selves from  the  shells  is  to  take  the  egg  in  the  hand,  and  dipping  the  finger  or  a  piece  of  linen 
rag  in  warm  water,  to  apply  it  to  the  fastened  parts  until  they  are  loosened  by  the  gluey  sub- 
stance becoming  dissolved  and  separated  from  the  feathers.  The  chick,  then,  being  returned  to  the 
nest,  will  extricate  itself — a  mode  generally  to  be  observed — since,  if  violence  were  used,  it  would 
prove  fatal.  Nevertheless,  breaking  the  shell  may  sometimes  be  necessary ;  and  separating  with 
the  fingers,  as  gently  as  may  be,  the  membrane  from  the  feathers,  which  are  still  to  be  moistened  as 
mentioned  above,  to  facilitate  the  operation.  The  points  of  small  scissors  may  be  useful,  and  when 
there  is  much  resistance,  as  also  apparent  pain  to  the  bird,  the  process  must  be  conducted  in  the 
gentlest  manner,  and  the  shell  separated  into  a  number  of  small  pieces.  The  signs  of  a  need  of 
resistance  are  the  egg  being  partly  pecked  and  chipped,  and  the  chick  discontinuing  its  efforts  for 
live  or  six  hours.  Weakness  from  cold  may  disable  the  chicken  from  commencing  the  operation  of 
pocking  the  shell,  which  must  then  be  artificially  performed  with  a  circular  fracture,  similar  to 
that  made  by  the  bird  itself 

1 180.— CHICKEN   PIE.      (Fr.— Pate    de   Volaille 
a  TAnglaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  or  2  small  chickens,  \  a  Ib.  of  ham  or  bacon, 
2  hard-boiled  eggs,  veal  forcemeat  balls,  No.  412,  |- of  a  pint  of  chicken 
stock,  i  yolk  of  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  puff  paste, 

Method. — Divide  the  chickens  into  neat  joints,  cut  off  the  legs  and 
wings  at  the  first  joint,  and  boil  these  with  the  backbones,  necks  and 
gizzards  for  about  2  hours,  then  strain  and  use  for  stock.  Parboil  the 
livers,  chop  them  very  finely,  and  mix  them  with  the  forcemeat.  Cut 
the  ham  into  strips,  and  the  eggs  into  sections  or  slices.  Place  the 
pieces  of  chicken  and  the  prepared  ingredients  in  a  pie-dish  in  layers, 
season  carefully  with  salt  and  pepper,  f  fill  the  dish  with  stock.  Roll 
out  the  paste,  cover  the  piedish  with  it,  ornament,  and  brush  over 
with  yolk  of  egg.  Bake  from  i-|  to  if  hours,  in  a  quick  oven,  until  the 
paste  has  risen  and  set,  and  then  more  slowly.  Before  serving,  add 
the  remainder  of  the  hot  stock  to  the  pie.  If  preferred,  the  bones 
may  be  removed  and  the  pieces  of  chicken  stuffed  with  sausage-meat, 
or  the  veal  forcemeat  may  be  used  for  this  purpose  instead  of  being 
made  into  bails.  See  also  the  forcemeat  used  in  making  "  Lark  Pie." 

Time. — To  bake  the  pie,  from  i£  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  if  with 
2  chickens,  about  8s.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons* 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    POULTRY  683 

1 181.— CHICKEN  PILLAFF.    (Fr.— Pillau  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. —  i  chicken  or  fowl,  3  pints  of  stock  (or  3  pints  of  water 
and  j  11).  of  scrag  end  of  neck  of  mutton),  6  ozs.  of  Patna  rice,  4  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  Spanish  onions,  2  small  onions,  i  tablespoonful  of  curry  paste, 
i  carrot,  i  blade  of  mace,  6  black  peppercorns,  salt,  pepper. 

Method. — Divide    the   chicken   into   pieces   convenient    for   set 
remove  the  skin  and  the  feet  and  wings  at  the  first  joint.     Put  the 
backbone,  neck,  giblets,  bones  and  trimmings  into  a  stcwpan  with  the 
stock  (or  the  water  and  mutton  cut  into  small  pieces),  add  the  on  tside 
•.f  each  Spanish  onion,  the  carrot,  mace  and  peppercorns,  and  boil 
gently  for  2  or  3  hours,  then  strain.     Heat  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  stcwpan, 
cut  the  Spanish  onions  into  dice,  fry  them  until  lightly  brouiud,  add 
the  rice  (previously  well  washed  and  drained),  i£  pints  of  stock,  season 
with  salt  and  p«-pper,  and  cook  the  ingredients  gently  by  th« 
fire.     Melt   the  remaining  2   ozs.  of  butter,  fry  the  pieces  of  ci 
slowly  until  nicely  browned,  keep   them  hot  until  the  rice  has  ab^ 

r  part  of  the  stock,  then  put  them  with  the  curry 

the  stewpan  and  mix  well  with  the  rice.     Continue  the  cooking  until 
the  rice  and  chicken  are  perfectly  tend'  more  sto 

A  few  minutes  before  serving  re  Q  which  the  c! 

was  fried,  cut  t  s,  and  fry  them  i 

Pile  the  pillau  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  scatter  on  th 

Time.     A! -out  i  hour,  after  the  stock  is  made.     Average  Cost, 
43.  6d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

THE  Y  I  —The  young  chicks  which  are  firtt  hatched  should  be  taken  from  tin 

the  ben,  otherwise  s!  it  her  task  a  :  eggs  to  spoil. 

A^  s.v.: i  .is  tii.-  v" i •,.:  K:.l-    HI    UlMlt   a  the  n     "     •   '.'.    •••  -         .  '.  •  •    ;  '         :     .    '  '   i-r,-  :    '  •  •  •'     v   ••.. 

• 
• 

.  in  if  th-v  an  ;r  hours 

th.     If  the  whole  of  the  brood  i^  .rn  may 

ad  soaked  in  milk  and  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  with  Emdcn  grits,  or  food  of  a 
similar 

1182.— CHICKEN,  POTTED.  (Fr.— Terrine  de  Volaille/ 

Ingredients. -i  ins  of  cold  roast  chicken  ;  to  every  Ib. 

3  ozs.  of  cooked  ham,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  clarified 
but 

Method. — Pass  the  chicken  and  !.  aes  throu. 

ma-'hine,  or  chop  them  ]xnind  in  a  mortar  until  smooth, 

adding  seasoning  to  taste  and  t.  ;   graduall  through  a 

>ieve,  press  into  small  pots,  and  cover  the  con 
clarified   but1 

Average  Cost.— is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 

1183.     CHICKEN  PUREE  FOR  GARNISH. 

See  "  C ! 


684  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1184.— CHICKEN,  PUREE  OF,  WITH   RICE. 

(Fr. — Puree  de  Poulet  au  Riz.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  chicken,  2  ozs.  of  finely- 
chopped  cooked  ham,  4  ozs.  of  rice,  white  stock,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream,  salt  and  pepper,  chopped  truffle. 

Method. — Blanch  the  rice,  drain  well,  cover  with  white  stock,  and 
cook  gently  until  tender  and  dry.  Pound  the  chicken  and  ham  until 
smooth,  moistening  gradually  with  a  little  stock,  and  pass  these  in- 
gredients through  a  wire  sieve.  Stir  in  the  cream,  season  to  taste, 
make  thoroughly  hot,  stirring  meanwhile,  and  add  stock,  a  little  at  a 
time,  until  the  preparation  is  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  thick  cream. 
Turn  into  5  or  6  well-buttered  scallop  shells,  arrange  the  rice  to  form 
a  narrow  border,  sprinkle  the  surface  with  truffle,  and  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  i±  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

FEEDING  AND  COOPING  THE  CHICKS. — When  all  the  chicks  are  hatched  they  should  be  placed  with 
the  mother  hen  under  a  coop,  in  a  warm  dry  place.  If  two  hens  happen  to  have  broods  at  the 
same  time,  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  their  broods  separate,  for  should  they  become  mixed  and 
go  under  the  same  coop,  the  hens  will  probably  maim  and  destroy  the  chicks  which  do  not  belong 
to  them.  After  being  kept  snug  beneath  the  coop  for  a  week— the  coop  being  placed  under  cover 
at  nightfall — the  chicks  may  be  allowed  to  run  about  for  an  hour  or  so  during  the  warmest  part  of 
the  day.  They  should  be  gradually  weaned  from  the  soaked  bread  and  chopped  egg,  and  grits  or 
boiled  barley  substituted.  In  eight  or  ten  days  their  stomachs  will  be  sufficiently  strong  to  receive 
bruised  barley,  and,  if  healthy,  at  the  end  of  three  weeks,  the  chicks  will  be  able  to  take  care  of 
themselves.  It  is  well,  however,  to  watch  over  them  for  a  week  or  so  longer,  to  prevent  older 
chickens  driving  them  away  from  their  food.  Great  care  should  be  taken  that  the  very  young  chicks 
do  not  run  about  the  wet  ground  or  on  damp  grass,  which  causes  the  chief  and  most  fatal  disease  to 
which  the  young  birds  are  liable.  While  under  the  coop  with  the  hen  a  shallow  pan  of  water  should 
be  supplied  to  the  chicks,  as  they  are  apt  to  drench  themselves  and  take  cold,  or  get  drowned 
in  a  deep  vessel. 

Detached  nesting-boxes  containing  finely-sifted  moist  sand  or  cinder  ashes,  good  straw,  and  a 
little  hay  on  top,  should  be  placed  against  the  walls  of  the  house,  which  is  preferable  to  fixed  rows 
of  nests,  since  they  can  readily  be  moved,  limewashed  and  cleansed.  In  front  of  the  house  a  wired- 
in  run  should  be  provided,  not  less  than  six  feet  in  height,  and  as  long  in  extent  as  possible.  The 
floor  of  the  run  should  be  covered  with  sifted  ashes  or  good  gravel,  the  latter  being  very  helpful  to 
the  birds  in  assisting  the  process  of  digestion. 

1185.— CHICKEN,  QUENELLES  OF.     (Fr— Quenelles 
de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  raw  chicken,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  \  an  oz.  of  butter, 
£  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  2  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock,  let  boil 
whilst  stirring.  This  will  produce  the  panada ;  which  put  aside  to 
cool.  Shred  or  mince  the  chicken  meat  finely,  or  pass  it  through  a 
mincing  machine,  pound  well  in  the  mortar,  adding  the  panada  by 
degrees  and  each  egg  separately,  season  well,  and  rub  through  a  fine 
wire  or  hair  sieve.  Whip  the  cream  slightly,  and  stir  it  lightly  into 
the  chicken  puree.  Poach  a  little  of  the  preparation  and,  if  too 
stiff,  add  a  little  more  stock  or  cream.  See  "  Quenelles  of  Veal  " 
for  directions  for  shaping,  cooking  and  serving. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  685 

1 186.— CHICKEN,  RAMAKINS  OF.     (Fr.— Souffles  de 
Volaille  en  Caisses.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  raw  chicken,  ±  of  a  pint  of  cream,  4  yolks  of 
j  whites  of  eggs,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  2  mushrooms,  i  truffle,  salt 
pepper. 

Method. — Shred  the  chicken  meat  finely,  or  pass  it  through  a  mincing 
machine,  then  pound  it  well  in  the  mortar,  adding  by  degrees  the  yolks 
of  4  eggs,  season  well,  and  rub  through  a  fine  wire  sieve.  Whip  the 
slightly,  and  whisk  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  then  add 
with  the  mushrooms  and  trutllc  cut  into  small  dice,  to  the  chicken  pm\c. 
Mix  lightly  together,  and  put  the  mixture  into  8  well-buttered  china  or 
.•.kin  cases.     The  cases  should  not  be  more  than  three  parts 
tilled,  as  the  mixture  rises  considerably  in  baking.     Place  the  cases  ona 
nd  cook  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  r 
:ses,  and,  if  liked,  send  hot  Bechamel  or  other  su; 
sauce  to  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — To  bake,   from    18   to  20  minutes.       Average  Cost,  23.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  8  cases. 

Tn  constructing  a  fowl  house,  rare  should  be  taken  to  build  it 
•he  v>uth.  or  in  one  comer,  so  that  the  garden  or  fence  form*  t 

f  south  or  south-east,  thus  sheltering  the  fowK  from  < 
The  side  and  end  of  th«  t  of  vund  wrather  board- 

ing, and  the  roof  of  the  same  material  with  a  good  fall,  so  that  the  rain  may  run  on 
:  in  the  corner  of  the  house  furthest  away  from  the 
.e  rt.vT  of  the  home  should  slope  half  an  inch  to  the  foot  from  back  to  front. 

made  of  concrete,  to  keep  away  rat*  < 

v«Tnmi  food  floor  may  be  formed  of  chalk  and  dry  soil,  mixed  togrther 

rammed  down.     Upon  this  some  thrr.  .  ashes  should  be  sifted,  and  kept  regu- 

l«  of  good  s  !,!«!,  arranged  like  step?, 

ends  falling  into  sockets.  *>  that  they  may  be  eav : 

render  acces*  to  th 

.  which  i<  c-  wls.  should  be  at  • 

Md  •:;••  m  i  ..•  .  •  i.r  .1  I     :••  i  •• .  •  .•••  i  i  •.    >    •     •  .    '.     i      :  .   t  ..  ,     •  ,•    ortant  fur  th*  1  Mi  ; 
one  or  two  small  panes  of  glass  should  therefore  be  let  into  the  house  front  on  the  sunny  sxle. 

1 187.- CHICKEN,  RECHAUFFE  OF. 

See  "  Fowl,  Hashed,"   Recipe  No.  i 

1 188.— CHICKEN,  RISSOLES  OR  RISSOLETTES  OF. 

(Fr.— Rissolettes  de  Volaille. 

Ingredients. — About  4  ozs.  of  cooked  chicken,  2  ozs.  of  cooked  ham  or 

i.utton  mushrooms,  i  small  trulilc,  $  an  oz.  of  butter,  }  an  oz. 
<>1  t'.our,  ]  stock,  i  tablcspoonful  of  cream,  salt  and 

rnbs,  fryi  >ugh  puff  pa- 

Method.     C  i  op    the   chicken    and    ham    finely,   cut    the    mushrooms 
and  t:  :  the  butter  in  a  stcwpan,  stir  in  the 

season  to  :<1  the 

uul  put   aside  to  cool.     Roll  out  the 


686  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

paste  as  thinly  as  possible — stamp  it  out  into  rounds  of  about  2  inches 
diameter,  pile  a  teaspoonful  of  the  preparation  in  the  centre,  wet  the 
edges  with  water,  place  another  round  of  paste  on  the  top,  and  press 
the  edges  together  neatly.  Brush  over  with  egg  and  cover  with 
breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  lightly  browned  in  hot  fat.  If  preferred, 
half  the  quantity  of  the  meat  mixture  may  be  enclosed  in  i  round  of 
paste,  one  half  of  which  must  be  folded  over  to  form  them  into  half- 
moon  shapes  ;  variety  may  be  introduced  by  substituting  crushed 
vermicelli  for  the  breadcrumbs. 

Time.  —  Altogether,  i-J-  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d. 
Sufficient  for  8  to  12  rissoles,  according  to  the  size  made. 

1189.— CHICKEN,  ROASTED.       (Fr.— Poulet  Roti.) 

Ingredients. — i  good  chicken,  2  or  3  slices  of  bacon,  \  a  pint  of  stock, 
fat  for  basting,  salt  and  pepper,  bread  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  1 80);  a 
few  drops  of  liquid  caramel,  watercress. 

Method. — Truss  the  chicken  for  roasting,  prick  the  entire  surface  of 
the  breast  with  the  point  of  a  metal  skewer  or  trussing  needle,  skewer 
over  it  the  slices  of  bacon,  baste  well  with  hot  fat,  and  roast  before  a 
clear  fire  or  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  i  hour.  Baste  frequently, 
and  a  few  minutes  before  serving  remove  the  bacon  for  the  breast  to 
brown.  Meanwhile  simmer  the  neck  (and  the  liver  and  gizzard  when 
not  trussed  in  the  wings)  in  the  stock.  When  the  chicken  is  sufficiently 
cooked  remove  it  to  a  dish,  drain  off  every  particle  of  fat,  taking  care 
not  to  disturb  the  sediment,  pour  in  the  stock,  boil  for  2  or  3  minutes, 
season  and  colour  to  taste,  and  strain  into  a  sauceboat.  Have  ready 
the  watercress  well  washed,  drained,  and  season  lightly  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  use  as  garnish.  Serve  both  gravy  and  bread  sauce 
separately. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  43.  Sufficient  from  4 
to  6  persons. 

NOTE. — The  pricking  of  the  breast  is  not  essential,  but  some  cooks  prefer  this  way. 

1190.— CHICKEN,  ROASTED,  FRENCH  STYLE. 

(Fr. — Poulet  Roti  a  la  Frangaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  chicken,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i-£  gills  of  stock.  For  the 
mirepoix,  or  foundation  :  i  small  onion,  i  carrot,  2  or  3  slices  of  bacon, 
salt  and  pepper,  bread  sauce  (see  Sauces  No.  180),  watercress  for 
garnish. 

Method. — Draw  the  chicken,  wash  the  liver  and  heart,  and  put  them 
aside  ;  cut  off  the  legs  just  below  the  first  joint,  truss  for  roasting,  and 
spread  the  butter  thickly  over  the  breast.  Slice  the  vegetables,  put 
them  into  a  baking-tin  with  the  bacon,  and  the  liver  and  heart  of  the 
chicken,  fry  these  a  little,  then  place  the  chicken  on  the  top  of  the 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    POULTRY  687 

mirepoix,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  in  a  quick 
for  about  40  minutes.   Baste  frequently,  and,  if  ncccss.  r  the 

breast  with  buttered  paper  to  prevent  it  becoming  too  brown.     When 
the    chicken    is  done,   remove  the  trussing  string  and    skewers  and 

hot.      Drain  the  fat  from  the  baking-tin,  add  the  stock,  boil 
for  2  or  3  minutes,    season  it    to  taste,  and    strain.       Garnish    the 

n  with  tufts  of  crisp  watercress,  and  serve  the  gravy   and   bread 

ely. 

Time.— About    i    hour.       Average    Cost,    43.     Sufficient    for   4   or    5 
persons. 

V-TMISTICS  or  HEALTH  AND  POWER.— The  chief  characteristics  of  health  in  a  fowl  are  bright* 
:  lryiif«  of  eye  and  nostrils,  the  comb  and  wattles  firm  and  ruddy,  and  the  feat  hers  elastic  and 
vie  is  generally  the  greatest  tyrant,  who  struts  among  his  hens  despoti- 
•  ki  hi*  head  erect,  and  with  ever  watchful  eyes.     A  cock  to  be  handsome  should  be  of  medium 
size  his  bill  short,  his  comb  bright  red,  his  wattles  large,  his  breast  broad,  and  bis  wings  strong.     His 
head  should  be  small,  bis  le«s  short  and  sturdy,  and  his  spurs  well- formed  ;  his  feathers  should  be 
short  and  close,  and  the  more  frequently  and  heartily  he  crows,  the  better  father  he  is  likely  to  be- 
come.   Medium-sized  hens  are,  as  the  rule,  the  best  for  breeding  purposes. 

1 191. -CHICKEN  SALAD.     (Fr.-Salade  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  chicken  (roast  or  boiled)  cut  into  joints  or  pieces  if 
'.  ;  to  4  tablespoonfuls  .Ulo\v    j    t.il»k  spoonfuls  of  : 
,   i    tablespoonful  of  li:  :  white  of    hard  b« 

•.•<M>nfuls  ot   M.uoiinaisc  sauce  (see   ^  NO.   201),   i   d* 

spoonful  of  salad-oil,  i  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar,  ^  a  tcaspoonful  of 
salt,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.     For  garnishing  :  pickled  ghi 
capers,  fillets  of  anch<  <-d  French  olives,  lett 

Method.— Mix  the  shredded  chick  lite  of  egg  tog- 

'n  a  bowl,    stir  in    the  salad-oil  and  vinegar,  season  with  the  salt 
and  pepper,  and  let  the  mixture  stand  for  i  hou:  <ly  to 

stir  in  tl.  aise  sauce,  range  the  salad  in  a  dish  on  a  bed 

ttuce,  garnish    tlu>  surface  with   the  gherkins,  capers,    an- 
,  and,  if    liked,  the    yolks  of   eggs,  previously  rubbed 
ugh  a  fine  sie 

Time. — About  i  J  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  oxi.  to  2s.  3d.  for  this  quan- 
Sufncient  for  5  pcrso: 

1192.— CHICKEN  SAUTED      (/'V.-Poulet   Saute.) 

See  "  Chicken  &  la  M.uvn-o,"  Recipe  No.  1 149,  and   "Fowl  Fried, 
,"  No.  1230. 

1 193. -CHICKEN,    SMALL   SOUFFLES    OF. 

(Fr.— Petits  Souffles  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — 4  to  5  ozs. of  rawc!  t  of  cream, 

i   trultle,  s.tli  and  peppt  ii.unel  sauce  (see  Sauo 

178),  salt. 


688         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Scrape  the  meat  finely,  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  add  seasoning  to  taste,  and  rub  through  a  fine  wire  or  hair 
sieve.  Whip  the  cream  slightly  and  whisk  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  add  the  mixture  lightly  to  the  chicken  puree,  put  in  the  truffle 
cut  into  dice,  and  |-  fill  some  well-buttered  china  or  paper  ramakin 
cases  with  the  mixture.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  20 
minutes,  and  serve  the  hot  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  23.  to 
2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  i  dish. 

1194.— CHICKEN,   SOUFFLE   OF.      (Fr.— Souffle   de 
Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  raw  chicken,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  the  whites  of 
2  eggs,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  pepper  and  salt,  %  a  pint 
of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces  No.  178). 

Method. — Shred  the  chicken  meat  finely,  or  pass  it  through  a  mincing 
machine,  then  pound  it  in  the  mortar  with  the  butter  and  yolk  of 
egg,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  rub  through  a  fine  wire  sieve. 
Whip  the  cream  slightly  and  whisk  the  whites  of  egg  stiffly,  and  add  them 
lightly  to  the  chicken  puree.  Place  in  a  well-buttered  souffle  (plain 
Charlotte)  mould,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  steam  gently 
from  50  to  60  minutes.  Or,  fill  up  several  small  dariol  moulds,  and 
steam  for  about  25  minutes.  Serve  with  the  white  sauce  poured  over, 
and,  if  liked,  decorate  with  finely-chopped  truffle. 

Time. — 60  to  90  minutes.  Average  Cost,  43.  to  45.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

STOCKING  THE  FOWL  HOUSE. — In  selecting  birds  for  stocking  a  fowl-house  care  should  be  taken  that 
they  are  not  more  than  two  years  old.  The  surest  indications  of  old  age  in  fowls  are  the  fading  of 
the  comb  and  gills  from  brilliant  red  to  a  dingy  brick  colour,  general  paleness  of  plumage,  brittle- 
ness  of  the  feathers,  length  and  size  of  the  claws,  and  the  ragged  and  corny  appearance  of  the  scales 
of  the  legs  and  feet.  The  selection  will  be  dependent  upon  the  purposes  for  which  the  fowls  are 
to  be  kept,  and  the  accommodation  for  keeping  them.  If  the  poultry  is  designed  for  the  table, 
Dorkings,  Game,  Houdans  are  good  breeds  for  that  purpose.  If  for  laying,  Minorcas,  Orpingtons, 
Wyandottes,  Hamburgs,  Leghorns,  Polish  and  Spanish  fowls  are  suitable.  If  both  poultry  and 
eggs  are  the  object,  Brahmas,  or  Langshans,  and  Brahmas  crossed  with  one  or  other  of  the  above 
breeds,  will  be  found  the  best.  If  the  object  be  the  breeding  of  birds  for  exhibition  the  fancier 
will  choose,  the  particular  bird  he  desires  for  competition. 

H95.—CHICKEN,    SPATCHCOCK.     (Fr.  Poulet    a   la 
Crapodine.) 

Ingredients. — i  chicken,  butter,  salt  and  pepper.  Tartare,  piquante, 
or  other  sharp  sauce  (see  Sauces)  4  to  5  thin  slices  of  bacon. 

Method. — Split  the  bird  in  half,  cutting  it  through  the  back  only,  cut 
off  the  legs  and  wings  at  the  first  joints,  and  arrange  in  a  flat  form 
by  means  of  skewers.  Brush  over  with  warm  butter,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  grill  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  for  about  15 
minutes.  Turn  frequently,  brush  over  with  butter,  and  when  done 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  689 

season  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Remove  the  skewers,  dish  up, 
garnish  with  fried  bacon,  and  serve  with  it  in  a  sauce-boat  one  of 
the  above-named  sauces. 

Time. — About   25   minutes.     Average  Cost,   35.   6d.   to  45.     Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

1196.— CHICKEN,    TIMBALES    OF.         (Fr.— Petites 
Timbales  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  raw  chicken,  i|  ozs.  of  butter,  the  whites  of 
s,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  pepper  and  salt,  £  a  pint 

nee  (see  Sauces,  No.   178),  macaroni. 

Method. — Boil  the  macaroni  in  salted  water  until  tender,  cut  it  across 
into  rings  about  |th  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  with  the  rings  line 

1  well-but  tnvd  timbale  moulds.       The  rings  should  be  arran. 
evenly  as  possible  ;  and  the  somewhat  tedious  task  may  be  facilitated 

;ig  the  point  of  a  lardi  •«>  fix  them  in  position.     IV 

the   chicken    p;  !or    "  Souttle    of    Chicken,"    Kb 

Fill  I  he  prepared  mould  with  the  mixture.      Steam   the  timbales 
25  to  35  minutes,    arrange    neatly  on    a    hot  dish,  pour    the  sauce 
round,  an 

Time. — i  hour     Average  Cost,  35.  oxl.  to  4s.   ;d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
>ns. 

BITTING. — Some  hens  are  very  capricious  as  regards  sitting  ;  they  will  make  a  great  fuss  and 

keep  pining  for  the  nest,  but  when  they  arc  jvrmitti-d  to  sit  will  remain  just  long  enough  to  .ul.llc 

iiion  they  will  leave  them.     To  guard  against  this  annoyance  it  will  be  found  to  be  a 

:>ply  the  hon  with  sonic  hard-boiled  eggs  •  i|  she  sits  upon  them  for  a  reasonable  time 

and  seems  ii,  nn.  it  will  then  be  safe  to  supply  her  with  proper  eggs. 

1197.— CURRIED  CHICKEN.    (Fr.— Kari  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. —  i  chicken,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  stock,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
'spoonful  of  curry-powder,    i    dessertspoonful  of  flour,    i    tea- 
tul   of   curry   paste,   i    dessertspoonful     of    desiccated  or 
cocoanut,  i  dessertspoonful  of  chutney,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice, 

•oonfuls  of  cream,  i  apple,  i  onion,  salt,  cooked  rice. 
Method.— Divide  the  chicken  into  neat  joints,  and  fry  them  li 
in  hot  butter.     Remove   them  from   the  stewpan,  put  in  the  onion 
minced,  fry  for  2  or  3   minutes  without  browning,  add  the  flour  and 
curry  powder,  stir  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes,  then  pour  in  the  stock 
and  stir  until  boiling.     Replace  the  chicken  in  the  stewpan,  add  the 
curry-paste,  cocoanut,  chutney,  sliced  apple,   lemon-juice,   and  salt  to 
•  and  cook  very  gently  for  about  J  of  an   hour  if  the  bird 
>r  until  the  flesh  of  an  older  bird  is  tender.     Arrange  n< 
add  t:  ,  and  strain  over  the   chicken.     The   rice 

should  be  ham!  tely. 


690         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time. — From  i^  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5 
persons. 

FOWLS  AS  FOOD. — The  fine  and  delicate  flavour  of  the  flesh  of  birds,  which  are  included  under 
the  category  of  "  poultry,"  readers  it  alike  palatable  and  nourishing  for  both  the  delicate  and  the 
robust,  and  by  the  skill  of  the  cook  it  can  be  served  at  the  table  boiled,  roasted,  fried,  fricasseed, 
hashed,  hot,  cold,  whole,  dismembered,  boned,  broiled,  in  the  form  of  cream  or  souffles,  or  as 
pies  to  please  every  taste,  and  adapted  to  suit  the  most  delicate  digestion. 

1198.— CURRIED  CHICKEN  OR  FOWL.    (Fr.— Poulet 
a  Tlndienne.) 

Ingredients. — Remains  of  cold  roast  chickens  or  fowls,  i  onion,  i 
apple,  i  tablespoonful  of  curry-powder,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i 
dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  red  currant  jelly  or 
chutney,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  |-  of  a  pint  of  stock,  salt,  cooked  rice. 

Method. — Divide  the  chicken  into  neat  joints,  simmer  the  bones 
and  trimmings  in  stock  or  water  for  i£  or  2  hours,  then  strain  and  use. 
Slice  the  onion,  fry  it  lightly  in  the  hot  butter,  add  the  flour  and 
curry-powder,  stir  over  the  fire  for  2  or  3  minutes,  pour  in  the  stock, 
and  bring  to  the  boil,  stirring  all  the  time.  Now  add  the  sliced  apple, 
chutney,  and  salt  to  taste,  cover,  and  simmer  gently  for  \  an  hour,  then 
put  in  the  pieces  of  chicken  and  let  them  remain  in  the  sauce  lor 
30  minutes,  but  the  stewpan  must  stand  where  the  contents  will  be 
kept  hot  without  boiling.  When  ready,  arrange  the  chicken  neatly 
add  the  lemon- juice  to  the  sauce,  season  to  taste,  and  strain  over  the 
chicken.  Rice  should  be  served  separately. 

Time. — About  i£  hours,  after  the  stock  is  made.  Average  Cost, 
2S.  pd.  to  33. 

AGE  AND  FLAVOUR  OF  CHICKENS. — The  flesh  of  young  chickens  is  the  most  delicate  and  easily  assi- 
milated of  animal  foods,  which  makes  it  especially  suitable  for  invalids  and  persons  whose  digestion 
is  weak.  Few  animals  undergo  so  great  a  change  with  regard  to  the  quality  of  their  flesh  as  the 
domestic  fowl.  When  quite  young,  cocks  and  hens  are  equally  tender,  but  as  chickens  grow  older 
the  flesh  of  the  cock  is  the  first  to  toughen,  and  a  cock  a  year  old  is  fit  only  for  conversion  into 
soup.  A  hen  of  the  same  age  affords  a  substantial  and  palatable  dish.  This  rule  respecting  age 
does  not  apply  to  capons,  which,  when  well-fed  and  well-dressed  for  the  table,  are  surpassed  by 
few  animals  for  delicacy  of  flavour.  Even  when  three  years  old  the  capon  is  as  tender  as  a  chicken, 
with  the  additional  advantage  that  his  proper  chicken  flavour  is  more  fully  developed.  The  above 
remarks  are  applicable  only  to  capons  naturally  fed  and  not  crammed.  The  latter  process  may 
produce  a  handsome-looking  and  heavy  bird,  but  when  tested  by  cooking  its  inferiority  will  be  only 
too  apparent.  As  a  rule  small-boned  and  short-legged  poultry  are  generally  the  more  delicate 
in  colour,  flavour  and  fineness  of  flesh. 

1199.— CHICKEN,  VOL-AU-VENT  OF.    (Fr.— Vol-au- 
Vent  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  puff  paste,  £  a  pint  of  Bechamel  or  Supreme 
sauce  (see  Sauces),  6  ozs.  of  cooked  chicken,  2  ozs.  of  cooked  ham 
or  tongue,  2  truffles,  6  mushrooms,  salt  and  pepper,  aromatic  spice. 

Method. — When  the  paste  has  had  6  turns,  roll  it  out  to  about  f-  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  and  cut  it  into  either  a  round  or  oval  form,  as 
may  be  desired  and  place  on  a  baking  tin.  Brush  over  the  top  of  the 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  691 

paste  shape  with  beaten  egg,  make  an  inner  ring,  cutting  the  paste  to 
about  half  its  depth,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Meanwhile,  cut  the 
chicken  and  ham  into  dice  shapes  or  small  cubes,  cut  the  mushrooms 
and  truffles  into  small  slices,  stir  the  whole  into  the  hot  Bechamel 
sauce,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  aromatic  spice,  and  make  thor- 
oughly hot.  When  the  vol-au-vent  case  is  sufficiently  baked,  remove 
the  lid,  scoop  out  the  soft  inside,  fill  with  the  prepared  ragout,  put  on 
the  cover,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour,  after  the  paste  is  made.  Average  Cost,  43.  6d. 
to  5s.  Sufficient  for  6  to  8  persons. 

THE  M  : inning  properly  at  the  end  of  September 

fowls  reij  :i  itself  a  disease,  it  (requcntK 

-ubsequent  ill  s,  as  Parish's  Food  and  cod  liver  oil,  or  a  small  quantity 

of  :r<m  in  the  drink::: ;  w.ii.-r  ;  n  •  irishing  food  with  abundance  ot  green  food  should  be  given 
the  feathers,  especially  the  head  feathers,  not  come  out.  the  dead  feathers  may  be  extracted  with 
a  pair  of  tweezers.     A  strong  bird  will  usually  get  over  his  moulting  in  about  three  weeks. 

1200.— CHICKEN    ROAST,  STUFFED  WITH   HERBS. 
(Fr.—  Poulet   roti  aux  Fines  Herbes.) 

Ingredients. — I  chicken,  i }  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful 
of  shredded  onion,  2  tablespoon fu Is  of  shredded  carrot,  i  teaspoonful 
each  of  chopped  parslex  1.  tarragon,  or  other  herbs  which  are 

liked,  I  glass  of  wl  J  of  a  pint  of  stock.  For  the  forcemeat: 

2  tablespoon  fu  Is  of  breadcrumbs,  i  teaspoonful  each  of  finely  chopped 
allots,  chervil  and  tarragon,  the  liver  of  the  chicken,  i  oz. 
of  oiled  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  gall  bladder,  wash  and  chop  the  liver,  finely, 

and  add  to  it  the  breadcrumbs,  parsley,  shallots,  chervil,  and  tarragon, 

with  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.     Add  sufficient  oiled  butter 

to  moisten  the  whole,  stuff  the  crop  of  the  bird  with  the  preparation, 

secure  the  opening,  and  retruss  the  bird.      Roast  the  chicken  in  front 

of  a  clear  fire,  or  in   a  moderately   hot  oven  for  about  50  minutes 

basting  frequently.     Meanwhile  melt  the  remaining  i$  oz.   of  butter 

in    a    stewpan,    try   the  onion  and  carrot  slightly,  add  the  flour,  and 

cook  gently  until  lightly  browned.     Put  in  the  stock,  stir  until  boiling, 

i  to  taste,  add   :'  and  about  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley, 

I  and  tarragon  mixed,  simmer  gently  for  ^  an  hour,  then  strain. 

with  a  little  of  the  sauce  poured  round,  and  send  the  remainder 

to  table  separately. 

Time. — To  roast  the  chicken,  about  40  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
33.  6d.  to  43.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

i20i.— CHICKEN  WITH  MACARONI.    (Fr.— Poulet  £ 
la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients.— i  chicken,  j  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato 
sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  281),  j  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  No.  244, 


692  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3.  few  drops  of  lemon- juice   or    Tarragon    vinegar,    salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  chicken  until  half  cooked  in  stock,  or,  if  this  is  not 
at  hand,  in  water  flavoured  with  vegetables.  Put  the  macaroni  into 
salted  boiling  water  and  cook  rapidly  for  15  or  20  minutes,  until  it  is 
perfectly  tender  but  not  broken,  then  drain  well,  and  cut  into  short 
lengths.  Heat  the  sauces  in  a  stewpan,  and  when  the  chicken  is  sufficient- 
ly cooked,  cut  it  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  and  put  them  into 
the  sauce.  Add  the  macaroni,  salt,  pepper,  lemon-juice  or  vinegar  to 
taste,  and  simmer  very  gently  for  £  of  an  hour.  Arrange  the  macaroni 
to  form  a  bed  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  place  the  chicken  on  the  top 
.of  it,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i  to  i|-  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  45.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  DISEASES  OF  FOWLS  AND  THEIR  CURE. — Fowls  are  liable  to  various  diseases  ;  the  most  dangerous 
of  these  is,  perhaps,  roup,  a  highly  contagious  disease.  It  commences  with  a  cold,  and  is  character- 
ized by  a  thick  discharge  from  the  nostrils  and  eyes,  which,  unless  the  bird  is  at  once  isolated,  will 
infect  the  other  birds,  especially  through  the  medium  of  the  drinking  water.  The  vessels  which 
contain  it  should  be  thoroughly  disinfected.  The  nostrils  and  eyes  of  the  isolated  bird  should  be 
well  washed  out  with  warm  water,  or  warm  milk  and  water,  and  disinfectants,  as  Condy's  Fluid, 
kabarrague's  solution  of  chlorinated  soda,  one  part  to  two  of  water,  and  Gamjees'  Roup  Pills,  may 
he  administered  with  advantage.  When  recovering,  tonics,  as  Parish's  Food  and  cod  liver  oil, 
will  be  serviceable.  Fresh  air  and  good  ventilation  in  the  fowl  houses  are  the  best  preveutatives 
of  this  dangerous  disease. 

1202.— CHICKEN,  WITH    RICE    AND    TOMATOES. 
(Fr. — Poulet  au  riz  a  la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  chicken,  larding  bacon,  2  onions,  2  carrots,  i  turnip, 
all  thickly  sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay -leaf),  10  pepper- 
corns, stock,  J  of  a  pint  of  tomato  puree,  3  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Truss  the  chicken,  lard  the  breast  in  close  rows,  and  wrap 
it  in  greased  paper.  Put  the  vegetables,  herbs  and  peppercorns  into 
a  stewpan,  add  sufficient  stock  to  nearly  cover  them,  and  place  the 
chicken  on  the  top.  Cover  closely,  cook  gently  for  about  i£  hours, 
adding  more  stock  to  replace  that  which  boils  away.  Wash  and 
blanch  the  rice,  cook  it  in  good  stock  until  tender  and  dry,  then  stir 
in  the  tomato  puree  and  cheese,  and  season  to  taste.  Put  the  chicken 
in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  to  crisp  the  bacon,  then  serve  with  the 
rice  either  as  a  border  or  formed  into  timbales. 

Time. — About  if-  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  43.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

OBSTRUCTION  OF  THE  CROP. — This  ailment  is  commonly  caused  by  weakness  or  greediness.  To  cure 
it,  the  crop  should  be  kneaded  to  remove  its  contents  ;  if  no  good  effect  is  produced,  warm  water 
should  be  poured  down  the  throat,  and  another  attempt  made.  The  crop  should  if  possible  be 
emptied  through  the  mouth,  and  a  dessertspoonf'jl  of  castor  oil  administered.  If  the  crop  cannot 
be  emptied  by  kneading,  it  will  be  necessary  to  cut  it,  taking  care  that  the  incision  avoids  the 
large  blood  vessels,  and  is  sufficiently  large  to  admit  a  finger  or  teaspoon  for  the  removal  of  the 
obstruction.  A  fine  needle  and  horsehair  or  fine  silk  should  be  used  to  stitch  up  the  crop,  care  being 
taken  to  stitch  together  first  the  inner  skin  and  then  the  outer  skin  of  the  crop.  Sometimes  a 
diamond-shaped  piece  is  cut  from  the  crop  before  sewing  it  up,  to  contract  the  crop  if  it  is 
permanently  loose. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKINV,    Pol'LTRY  693 

1203.— CHICKEN,  WITH  SUPREME  SAUCE. 

(Fr.—  Supreme  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — i  chicken,  f  of  a  pint  of  Supreme  sauce  (see  "  Sauces  " 
No.  26 j),  white  stock,  garnish  of  truffles  or  maccdoine  of  vege- 
taM 

Method.- -Stc\v  the  chicken  in  stock  until  tender,  then  divide  it  into 

.  put  the  ha*  -  md  pile  the  remainder  on  a  hot  di.sli. 

Pour  the  sauce  over,  garnish  with  truffles  or  mi\  s  and 

Time.— From  i  to  i|  hours.     Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  45.     Sufficient 
;  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Th*  malady  called  -  turniM  -  among  tans-birds  is  known  «  th*  ••  turn  "  »n  fowb. 
In  both  cavs  imiUr— overfeeding  and  want  c ; 

fall  from  its  perch,  and  onleM  assistance  be  speedily  *ivm  will  s«xm  die.  The  veins  of 
the  palate  should  be  opened,  and  a  few  drops  of  a  mixture  composed  of  six  parts  of  sweet  nitre  and 
one  part  of  ammonia  poured  down  the  throat 


I204.-CHICKEN  WITH   ITALIAN  SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Poulet  a  la  Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — I   chicken,  trussed  for  roasting,  j   of  a  pint  of  1 
sauce  (see  Sauces).  macedoine,  or  vegetable  mixture  :  carrot, 

turnip  /.  of  butter,  pepp-  Ifr,  chopped  p.. 

Method.     Kn.ist  tin-  cliii  km  in  front  ir  fire,  or  in  a  moderate 

,ind  cut  it  into  pieces  convenient   for  serving.     Cut   the 
$-inch  diameter  cutler  into  rounds  about 
in    tin  ;  oil    them 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan.  put  in  tl  Mes,  season  with  ] 

over  the  fire  until  the  1  absorbed. 

the  chicken  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  str.iin  the  hot  sauce  over,  group 
l>les  round  the  base,  sprinkle  over  them  the  chopped  p. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  43.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4 

:  MSCASKS  IK  Fowi*.- Cutaneoosdisflases  are  acquired  by  fowb  kept  in  unvrntilattd  and  dark 
birds  are  lodged  in  br 

!  y  the  falling  of  tbe  leathers  from  the  head  and  neck.    By  removinf  the  causes  a  cure 

u  !•:!•  •  t«  ,i. 


1205. -CHICKEN,  COLD,  GARNISHED.  (Fr.-Chaud- 
froid  de  Volaille.^ 

Ingredients.     2   mid   l.«  lsy  i    pint  <if  1    (No.  175)  or 

0.    2U).  i    a    pint    of    ii^pu-    jelly,  I  oz.  of 

ily. 


694          HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Divide  the  chickens  into  pieces  of  convenient  size,  skin  and 
trim  them  neatly.  Dissolve  the  gelatine,  previously  soaked,  in  a  little 
cold  water,  add  it  to  the  warm  Bechamel  sauce,  stir  until  cool,  then 
pour  it  carefully  over  the  pieces  of  chicken.  Decorate  with  fanci- 
fully-cut pieces  of  truffle  and  chili,  and  when  the  sauce  is  quite  set, 
coat  with  cold  liquid  aspic  jelly,  pouring  it  carefully  over  each  piece 
with  a  tablespoon.  Arrange  in  a  pyramidal  form  on  a  bed  of  dressed 
salad,  and  garnish  with  slices  of  cucumber,  tufts  of  endive  and  cubes 
of  aspic  ;  or  the  aspic  jelly  may  be  coarsely  chopped. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  8s.  to  93.  Sufficient  for  9  or  10 
persons. 

Note. — Considerable  variety  may  be  introduced  by  using  tomato,  Espagnole, 
and  green  chaud-froid  sauces  (see  Sauces),  the  combination  of  green  and  white, 
and  brown  and  red  being  particularly  effective. 

DIARRHCEA  AND  DYSENTERY. — Sudden  alteration  of  diet,  superabundance  of  green  food,  and  other 
causes,  produce  this  complaint  among  fowls.  In  its  less  acute  form  a  little  arrowroot  or  ground 
rice  mixed  with  water  and  made  into  a  pill  and  followed  by  a  diet  of  boiled  rice,  to  which  a  little 
powdered  chalk  has  been  added,  will  be  found  a  good  remedy.  An  excellent  prescription  is  com- 
posed of  5  grains  of  chalk,  5  grains  of  rhubarb,  3  grains  of  cayenne  pepper  made  into  a  pill, 
with  half  a  grain  of  opium  added  in  severe  cases.  Chlorodyne,  2  to  6  drops  in  a  teaspoon  of  warm 
water  is  used  with  good  results.  Dysentery,  if  acute,  is  difficult  to  cure,  and  the  more  merciful 
course  is  to  kill  the  bird  and  bury  it  with  disinfectants. 


1206.— DUCK,  BRAISED  WITH  CHESTNUTS. 

(Fr.— Canard  Braise  a  la  Frangaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  duck,  i  pint  of  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce 
(see  Sauces  No.  244),  i  glass  of  port  wine,  i  dessertspoonful  of  red 
currant  jelly,  i  Spanish  onion,  i  Ib.  of  chestnuts,  larding  bacon,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs.  For  the  mirepoix,  or  foundation  :  2 
onions,  2  carrots,  i  small  turnip,  2  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  allspice,  2  cloves>  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  chestnuts  and  remove  the  skins,  cook  the  Spanish 
onion  in  stock  or  water  until  tender,  chop  both  finely,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  add  the  yolks  of  eggs,  ana  use  these  for  stuffing  the  duck. 
Truss  the  duck  and  lard  it  neatly  Put  the  butter  and  sliced  vegetables 
into  a  large  stewpan,  place  the  duck  on  the  top  of  them,  cover  and  fry 
gently  for  20  minutes.  Next  add  as  much  of  the  stock  as  will  £  cover 
the  vegetables,  and  the  remainder  as  that  in  the  stewpan  boils  away. 
Cover  the  duck  with  a  buttered  paper,  put  on  the  lid,  and  cook  gently 
for  about  2  hours,  or  until  the  duck  is  perfectly  tender.  Heat  the 
Espagnole  sauce,  add  to  it  the  wine  and  jelly,  and  season  to  taste. 
Remove  the  trussing  strings,  and  put  the  duck  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few 
minutes  to  crisp  the  bacon.  Serve  with  a  small  quantity  of  the  sauce 
poured  over,  and  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time.— About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  53.  to  55.  6d.  Sufficient,  for  4 
or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  695 

1207.— DUCK,   BRAISED   WITH   TURNIPS. 

(Fr.— Canard  a  la  Nivernaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  duck,  i  pint  of  good  stock,  larding  bacon,  |  a  glass  of 
sherry,  3  young  turnips,  salt  and  pepper,  mirepoix  as  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  glaze. 

Method.  -Truss  and  lard  the  duck,  and  braise  it  as  directed  in  the 
foregoing  recipe.  When  cooked,  brush  over  with  warm  glaze,  and  ci 
thelardoons  in  the  oven.  Strain  the  stock  and  reduce  it  by  rapid  boiling 
until  about  half  the  liquid  remains,  then  add  the  sherry,  and  season 
to  taste.  Have  ready  the  turnips  cut  into  dice,  and  cooked  until 
u-mkr.  I'lacc  the  duck  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  turnips  in  groups, 
pour  the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  as.  6d.  to  55.  Sufficient,  for  4 
to  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 

THE  DUCK  (Fr.  .-.i«arrfl.-Thi»  wrIMtnown  bird  is  a  member  of  the  sub- family  Xmrttor,  mod  to 

allied  to  the  swans.  ge«c.  guillemots  and  gulb.    Then  M  species  of  ducks  which  are 

found  eitr:.  ited  over  most  parts  of  the  world.     Their  food  is  partly  v«getable.  partly 

il.  consisting  of  injects,  larvae,  and,  in  the-  dorn«-sticated  state,  of  corn,  mail*,  etc..  worm*  and 

»me  specie*  are  migratory,  flying  in  the  summer  season  from  warmer  to  colder 

regions.     Their  nests  are  constructed  on  the  ground  among  the  rushes  on  the  margins  of  lakes 

or  in  marshy  placet.    The  male  duck,  or  d.  gushed  from  the  female  by  its 

•••r  size,  the  recurved  four  middle  feathers  of  its  tail 

"i«  female  being  of  a  more  sombre  tint,  but  during  the  moulting  season  in 

:ubk  the  ducks.     Ducks  are  gregario  ;  «t>itv 

harsh  quack  of  the  duck  is  due  to  the  curiously  twisted  conformation  of   the 
•a  or  windpipe. 


1208.— DUCK,  FILLETS  OF.     (/•>.— Filets  de  Canard 
a  la  Bigarade.) 

Ingredients. — i    good  duck,   |   a   pint   of   Bigarade    sauce,   No  226 
(see    Sauces),    2    small   oranges,    salad-oil,    potato    border,  salt    and 

Method. — Sin.  duck,  and  roast  it  in  front  of  a 

fire  or  in  a  moderate  oven  until  tender.     I\vl  the  oran.L-rs.  sr: 
into  thru    natural  divisions,  remove  the  pith  and  pips, 

.is;  water  in  a  covered  basin  or  1  and  before 

ii  them  a  teospoonful  of  salad-oil.     Remove  the  breast 
from  the  duck,  cut  it  into  long  fillets,  arrange  them  neatly  o 
each  other  on  a  nk  ;icd  potato  border,  and  pour  th« 

sauce  over.     Tile  the  compote  of  oranges  in  the  centre,  and  serve. 

« >f  the  duck  shoald  be  put  aside,  and  afterwards  con 
.Inn  or  hash  (see  recipes  for  same). 

Time. — To  roast  the  duck,  from  40  to  60  minutes,  accordr 
i  ;c      Averags  Cost,  43.  to  6s.  6d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

*  the  table,  its  flesh  being  wV 

t  very  handsome  bird,  and  is  chiefly  kept  a*  an 
>nd  the  grounds  of  private  mansion*.      Its  prevailing  colour  is  black 
blue  steel  sheen  on  its 


695  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1209.— DUCK,  HASHED.  (Fr.—  Canard  au  Vin  Rouge.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Cold  roast  duck,  i  pint  of  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz. 
of  flour,  i  orange,  i  onion,  a  glass  of  claret,  salt,  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  duck  into  pieces  (joints)  suitable  for  serving. 
Chop  the  onion  finely,  fry  it  in  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  stir  over 
the  fire  until  brown,  then  pour  in  the  stock,  stir  until  it  boils,  and 
simmer  for  10  minutes.  Cut  the  orange  rind  into  very  thin  strips, 
add  them  with  the  juice  of  the  orange,  the  wine  and  the  duck  to  the 
sauce,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  very  gently  for  \  an 
hour. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.,  to  45.  6d.  Sufficient, 
allow  i  duck  for  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 

VARIETIES  OF  DUCKS.— Among  the  numerous  species  and  varieties  of  ducks  are  the  Canvas-back 
duck,  a  native  of  North  America,  and  highly  esteemed  for  the  table  ;  the  Muscovy-duck,  an  erro- 
neous form  of  musk-duck  (Cairina  moschata),  a  native  of  South  America,  but  domesticated  in  Europe. 
It  is  larger  than  the  common  duck,  and  possesses  a  peculiar  musky  smell.  The  Shoveller  duck,  an 
inhabitant  of  our  island  in  the  winter,  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  its  long  bill  and  hooked  widely- 
broadened  tip.  The  plumage  of  the  back  is  brown,  with  green  on  the  head  and  neck.  Its  egg5 
are  dirty-white  tinted  with  green.  The  Pintail,  which  takes  its  name  from  the  long  tapering 
form  of  the  tail  of  the  male  bird,  inhabits  Britain  and  the  South  of  Europe  in  winter.  The  plumage 
of  the  pintail  is  brown,  with  white  and  black  Hues,  and  its  flesh  is  palatable. 


12  io.— DUCK  AND  RED  CABBAGE.       (Fr.— Canard 
au  Chou  rouge.) 

Ingredients. — Remains  of  2  or  3  cold  ducks,  £  a  red  cabbage,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  good  gravy  or  stock,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  drain  the  cabbage,  and  shred  it  finely.  Heat  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  cabbage  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt 
and  pepper,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for  i  hour,  adding  a  little 
gravy  or  stock  if  necessary  to  prevent  burning.  Divide  the  ducks  into 
neat  joints,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  just  sufficient  hot  gravy  or 
stock  to  barely  cover  them,  put  on  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  allow  the 
stewpan  ?to  stand  just  below  simmering  point  for  nearly  i  hour. 
When  ready,  add  the  vinegar  to  the  cabbage,  turn  it  on  to  a  hot 
dish,  arrange  the  duck  neatly  upon  it,  and  serve  with  a  little  good 
gravy,  either  poured  round  or  handed  separately. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  ducks. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  January. 

AMERICAN  MODE  OF  CAPTURING  DUCKS. — Various  methods  of  capturing  ducks  are  employed  on  the 
rivers  in  America.  Sometimes  half  a  dozen  artificial  birds  are  fastened  to  a  little  raft,  so  weighted 
that  the  sham  birds  squat  naturally  in  the  water,  and  attract  the  notice  of  a  passing  flock  of  the 
wild  ducks,  which  fall  an  easy  prey  to  the  fowling-piece  of  the  hunter,  concealed  in  ambush.  An- 
other method  is  pursued  in  the  winter  time  by  the  fowler  of  the  Delaware  when  the  water  is  covered 
with  rubble  ice.  He  paints  his  canoe  entirely  white,  lies  down  in  the  bottom  of  it,  and  floats  with 
the  broken  ice  ;  the  ducks  being  unable  to  distinguish  between  the  colour  of  the  canoe  and  that 
of  the  ice.  As  soon  as  the  fowler  recognizes  by  the  quacking,  fluttering,  and  whirring,  of  wings 
that  he  is  in  the  midst  of  a  flock  he  rises  up  suddenly,  discharges  his  gun,  and  scatters  a  deadly 
leaden  shower  among  the  surprised  birds. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  697 

121 1. —DUCKS,  ROASTED.      (Fr.— Canards  Rotis.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ducks,  sage  and  onion  stuffing  No.  404  (see  Force- 
meats) £  a  pint  of  stock,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  apple 
sauce  No.  316  (see  Sauces). 

Method. — Stuff  the  body  of  the  ducks  with  the  onion  farce  or  stuffing 
and  truss  them  as  directed.  Baste  them  well  with  hot  fat,  and  roast 
1hem  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  or  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  i 
hour,  basting  frequently.  When  done,  pour  off  the  fat  and  if  a 
thick  gravy  is  preferred,  brown  the  flour  in  the  dripping-pan  before 
adding  the  stock.  Bring  the  gravy  to  boiling  point,  season  to  taste, 
simmer  for  i  or  2  minutes,  and  serve  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  73.  to  8s.  Sufficient  for  8 
to  9  persons.  Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 

The  short  lees  of  the  Anatidat  or  duck  sub-family,  from  their  backward  posi- 
;  art  of  the  body  to  preponderate,  and  produces  the  ungainly  movrment  which 
•   «•  duck  when  walking  on  land.     Some  species  of  ducks  .1 

to  terrestrial  habits  than  others,  and  among  these  is  the  summer  duck  of  America  (Dfi. 
stxmsa).     This  handsome  bird  usually  rears  her  young  in  the  holes  of  trees  which  overhang  the 
water.     When  sufficiently  strong  the  duckling!  Knmbie  to  the  mouth  of  the  hole,  bunch 
air  with  their  little  wings  and  feet  outstretched,  and  drop  into  the  water.     If  the  t 

r,  the  mother  carries  them  to  it  one  by  one  in  her  bill,  can-fully  holding 
each  so  t  injury.     It  has  been  noticed  that  when  the  tree  is  still  furtli 

from  a  stream  or  pool  th.-  duck  allow*  her  young  to  fall  upon  the  grass  and  dry  leaves  beneath 
and  afterwards  leads  them  directly  to  the  •••  lucks  some  are 

./.  owing  to  some  t  appearance,  as  the  bow-bill  or  hook-bill  d 

ted  shape  of  its  bill,  and  the  Penguin-duck,  which  waddles  in  an  upright  position, 
•  ms  resembles  its  namesake. 

I2I2.-DUCK,  ROUENNAISE  STYLE.     (Fr.- Canard 
a  la  Rouennaise.) 

Ingredients.—  i  Rouen  "  duck,  2  OTS.  of  but  tor,  i    t  a  H<  spoon- 

ful of  chopped    shallots,  a  bouquct-^arni    (par 

>nful  of  lemon-juice,  i  glass  of  claret,  |  a  pint  of  stock,  i 
•t spoonful  of  flour.       For  the  stuffing:    the  heart  anil   1, 

;uls  of  breadcnn  1   of  finely 

nion  parlxuKd    ami  finely  ili«>; 
of  butter,  salt   and 

Method.  -Remove  tin-  :;.dl  M,:dd<-r  from  the  liver,  wash  both 
and   1  hem   finely.     Add 

onion.  nin^'  of  ;,ui   and   i   oz.  of  butter,  }  ; 

Stuit  i!ie  duck  with  ion,  secure  the  opening,  and  tni 

ozs.  of  butt*  pan  suffic  ;ge  to 

luck,  put   in   the  duck   and   civ  D    fry   until 

n  the  flour,  let  it  1 
tir  until 
add  t!  non-juice,  season  to  taste,covcr closel 

en  for  al><  : .  or  until  tender.    Joint 

strained 

Time.     About   i\     hours.       Average    Cost.  d        Sufficient 


698  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

for  4  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  from  March  to  September,  but  to   be 
obtained  all  the  year  round. 

THE  ROUEN  DUCK,  bred  largely  in  Normandy,  is  a  large  and  handsome  variety  of  duck.  Its 
plumage  is  somewhat  sombre,  and  its  flesh  is  darker  and  less  delicate  in  flavour  than  the  Aylesbnry 
duck,  with  which  breed  the  Rouen  duck  is  usually  mated,  the  result  being  an  increase  of  size  and 
strength.  These  ducks  abound  in  Normandy  and  Brittany,  and  duck-liver  pates  are  a  popular 
relish  in  those  districts. 

THE  SHOVELLER-DPCK  is  characterized  by  its  long  hooked  bill,  with  a  broadened  tip.  Its  head 
and  neck  are  green,  and  the  colour  of  its  body  brown,  with  white  underneath.  It  inhabits  Britain 
during  the  winter. 

1213.— DUCK,  SALMI  OF.     (Fr.—  Salmis  de  Canard 
aux  Olives.) 

Ingredients. — i  duck  (or  remains  of  cold  ducks),  12  stoned  French 
olives,  1 1  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  f  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  medium- 
sized  Spanish  onion,  fat  for  basting,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Singe,  draw,  and  truss  the  duck,  slice  the  onion,  and  put 
it  into  a  baking-tin  ;  place  the  duck  on  the  top,  baste  with  hot  fat, 
and  roast  in  a  moderate  oven  for  \  an  hour,  basting  frequently.  In 
the  meantime,  melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  over  the  fire 
until  a  brown  roux  or  thickening  is  formed,  then  add  the  stock,  stir  until 
boiling,  and  simmer  until  required.  When  the  duck  is  sufficiently 
roasted,  remove  the  trussing  string,  cut  the  bird  into  small  joints, 
add  these  with  the  olives  to  the  sauce,  season  well,  and  simmer  gently 
for  about  \  an  hour.  Return  the  baking-tin  to  the  oven  until  the  slices 
of  onion  are  tender,  then  rub  them  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  add 
them  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan.  Drain  off  every  particle  of  fat, 
and  add  the  sediment  in  the  baking-tin  to  the  sauce.  When  it  is 
ready  dish  the  salmi  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish  on  a  croute  of  fried 
bread,  pour  over  the  sauce,  and  the  olives.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  45.  to  53.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

THE  WILD  DUCK. — In  many  parts  of  England  the  wild  duck  is  to  be  found,  especially  in  desolate 
fenny  places  where  water  is  abundant.  Wild  ducks  are  plentiful  in  Lincolnshire,  and  are  taken 
in  the  decoys,  or  ponds  situated  in  the  marshes,  and  surrounded  with  wood  or  reeds  to  prevent  the 
birds  which  frequent  them  from  being  disturbed.  The  birds  sleep  in  these  ponds  during  the  day, 
and  as  soon  as  the  evening  sets  in  the  decoy-duck  rises,  for  the  wild  ducks  feed  during  the  night. 
Now  is  the  time  for  the  decoy-ducks  to  entrap  the  others.  From  the  ponds  in  different  directions 
canals  diverge,  at  the  end  of  which  funnel-shaped  nets  are  placed.  Along  these  the  decoy-ducks 
lead  the  others  in  search  of  food.  When  they  have  gone  a  certain  length  a  decoy-man  appears,  and 
drives  the  birds  further  on  until  they  are  finally  taken  in  the  nets.  The  London  market  is  largely 
supplied  from  the  Lincolnshire  fens.  The  Chinese  have  a  singular  method  of  capturing  wild  ducks. 
A  man  having  his  head  covered  with  an  empty  calabash  wades  in  the  water  up  to  his  chin,  and 
approaches  the  place  where  the  ducks  are  swimming.  The  unsuspicious  birds  allow  the  calabash 
to  move  among  them  at  will.  The  man  accordingly  walks  about  in  the  midst  of  the  game,  pulls 
them  by  the  legs  under  the  water,  and  fixes  the  ducks  to  his  belt  until  he  has  secured  as  many  as 
he  requires,  and  then  moves  off  without  the  birds  discovering  the  trick  played  upon  them.  This 
mode  of  duck-hunting  is  also  practised  on  the  Ganges,  earthen  vessels  being  used  by  the  Hindus 
instead  of  calabashes. 

The  male  of  the  wild  duck  is  called  a  "mallard,"  and  the  young  ducks  "flappers."  The  time  to  try 
to  find  a  brood  of  these  is  about  the  month  of  July  among  the  rushes  of  the  deepest  and  most  retired 
parts  of  some  brook  or  stream,  where,  if  the  old  bird  is  sprung,  it  may  be  assumed  that  its  brood 
is  not  far  off.  When  once  found  flappers  are  easily  killed,  as  they  attain  their  full  growth  before 
their  wings  are  fledged.  The  sport,  therefore,  more  resembles  hunting  water-rats  than  shooting 
birds.  When  the  flappers  take  wing  they  are  then  called  wild  ducks,  and  about  the  month  of  August 
they  betake  themselves  to  the  cornfields,  remaining  there  until  disturbed  by  the  harvest  operations. 
The  wild  ducks  then  frequent  the  rivers  early  in  the  evening,  and  afford  excellent  sport  to  those 
who  possess  the  patience  to  wait  for  the  birds.  To  recognize  a  wild  duck  it  is  only  necessary  to  look 
at  its  claws,  which  should  be  black. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  699 

1214.— DUCK,  STEWED  WHOLE.     (Fr.— Canard  en 
Ragout.) 

Ingredients. —  i  duck,  i  pint  of  brown  stock,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i}ozs. 
of  flour,  2  onions  sliced,  2  sage  leaves,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Roast  the  duck,  or  bake  it  in  a  good  oven  for  20  minutes, 
then  place  it  in  a  stcwpan  with  the  herbs  and  onions,  and  cook  slowly 
for  £  of  an  hour.  Melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  and,  when  well  browned, 
strain  in  the  stock.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  a  smooth  sauce  is  obt 
then  draw  the  stewpan  aside,  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes  and  strain. 
Serve  the  duck  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  it  some  of  the  sauce,  and  send 
the  remainder  to  table  in  a  sauceboat. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  45.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 

I  VIZARD  OR  WILD  DL-CK  (Fr.  canard  s»*vagt).—A*as  bosckas  is  the  original  stock  from  which 

the  numerous  varieties  of  the  domesticated  duck  have  been  derived.     It  is  found  throughout  Europe, 

M  a.     The  plumage  of  the  male  is  metallic  green  on  the  head  and  neck,  the  latter  being 

1  with  a  collar  of  white  ;  the  body  is  of  a  dark  chestnut  colour,  marked  with  black  ;  th.it  <>( 

:  .1  dull  brown  hue.     In  the  spring  the  plumage  of  the  male  begins  to  fad 

two  months  the  brilliancy  of  his  feathers  disappears,  so  that  the  male  bird  is  scarcely  distinguishable 
from  the  female.  Then  the  greens  and  the  blues  mod  the  browns  begin  to  bud  out  again,  and  by 
October  he  is  once  more  a  gorgeous  drake.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  domestication  has  seriously 

.»!  character  of  the  duck.     In  t!.  the  drake  is  a  faithful  !• 

devoting  himself  to  one  wife,  but  in  the  domestic  sUtc  he  becomes  a  polygamist  and  owns  a  dozen 
uales  are  much  more  solicitous  for  their  pro-cny  in  the  wild  state  than  when  tame, 
Clings  are  molested  she  will  buffet  the  transgressor  with  her  broad  wings,  a: 

;  vigorously  with  her  stout  beak.     If  her  nest  is  searched  for  in  the  1  -n< 
l  will  try  by  every  means  in  her  power  to  lure  away  the  intruder,  a  ( 
.,•  to  simulate  lameness  to  encourage  pursuit  and  capture.     After  being  pursued  for 
mite  or  so,  the  bird  will  fly  up  and  make  her  escape. 

:>-k  was  highly  esteemed  by  theRoman-  icy  and  flavour  of  its  flesh,  to  which 

>  were  ascribed.     Plutarch  states  that  Cato  preserved  his  household  in  health 
during  a  plague  by  dieting  its  members  on  roast  duck. 

12 15. -DUCK  STEWED  WITH  GREEN  PEAS. 

(Fr.— Canard  aux  Petits  Pois.) 

Ingredients. — Remains  of  cold  roast  ducks,  i  pint  of  brown  sauce 
(see  Sauces,  No.  233),  i  pint  of  shelled  peas,  i  sprig  of  mint,  i  lump 

lemon-juice. 

Method.     Parboil  the  peas  with  the  mint  and  sugar,  and  drain  well. 

the  remains  of  the  ducks  into  neat  pieces,  put  them  into  the  hot 

^  e,  add  the  peas,  season  to  taste,  and  simmer  very  gently 

ng,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice. 

Time.     From  .15  to  60  minutes.      Average  Cost,  is.,  exclusive  of  the 
Sufficient  lor  3  or  4  persons.     Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 

•:.  (Fr.  tarcelU)  is  the  smallest  of  the  Anatidat.  or  duck  f.unilv.    Its  bill  is 
.:••  of  the  male  is  brown,  with 
A  inter,  and  teal  shooting  is  a  favourite  sport 
:••  numbers  by  means  of  decoys.     The  green 

i- winged  teal  of  North  America  are  handsome  birds  ;  and  the  Chine*. 
k,  is  especially  noted  for  the  bright  tints  of  purple,  green,  white  and  dark  brown,  which 

wn  also  as  the  Scaup-duck,  frequents  our  coasts  in  winter,  and  feeds 


703  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1216.— DUCKLING,  STUFFED.      (Fr.— Caneton  a  la 
Rouennaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  "  Rouen  "  duckling,  i  chicken  liver,  £  of  a  pint 
of  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces  No.  233),  3  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs, i  oz.  of 
butter,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  -|-  a  shallot  finely-chopped,  \  a  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  thyme, 
or  \  the  quantity  of  powdered  thyme,  salt  and  pepper,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Blanch  the  chicken  liver  and  the  liver  from  the  duckling, 
chop  them  finely,  add  the  herbs,  breadcrumbs,  butter  melted,  a  pinch 
of  nutmeg,  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  bind  with  the 
yolks  of  eggs.  Stuff  the  duckling,  baste  it  well  with  hot  butter  or  fat, 
and  roast  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  \  an  hour,  basting  frequently.  Then 
drain  off  every  particle  of  fat,  pour  the  hot  brown  sauce  into  the  baking- 
tin,  and  continue  the  cooking  until  the  duckling  is  tender  ;  15  or  20 
minutes  should  be  sufficient,  and  the  duckling  must  be  almost  constantly 
basted  during  the  time  with  the  sauce.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  strain 
over  a  little  of  the  sauce,  garnish  with  orange  quarters,  and  send  the 
remaining  sauce  to  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  45.  6d.  to  6s.  6d.,  according  to 
size  and  season.  Seasonable  from  March  to  August. 

THE  EIDER-DUCK  (Fr.  eider}  Somateria  mollissima,  supplies  the  useful  "  down  "  used  for  making 
coverlets  and  other  purposes.  It  is  obtained  from  the  nests  of  the  eider-duck,  the  female  plucking 
from  her  breast  the  warm,  soft  elastic  down  to  line  her  nest  and  cover  over  and  keep  warm  the 
eggs  which  she  has  laid.  Each  female  bird  supplies  about  J  a  Ib.  of  down.  The  down  is  imported 
in  the  form  of  balls,  weighing  3  to  4  Ib.  The  eggs  of  a  pale  green  colour  are  five  or  six  in  number 
and  two  broods  are  produced  each  year.  The  eider-duck  is  twice  the  size  of  the  ordinary  duck,  about 
24-in.  in  length,  and  weighs  some  7  Ib.  The  plumage  of  the  male  is  white  on  the  neck  and  back 
and  black  underneath  the  body,  the  crown  of  the  head  is  deep  black,  and  the  sides  of  the  head 
white.  It  has  a  green  bill  and  green  legs.  The  female  is  reddish-brown  marked  with  black.  Its 
wings  have  two  white  bands.  The  king  eider-duck,  common  in  Greenland,  has  a  red  beak  and 
legs,  and  the  male  has  a  warty  protuberance  on  the  base  of  the  upper  bill.  The  chief  habitats 
of  the  eider-duck  are  Greenland,  Norway,  Sweden,  Iceland  and  the  northern  islands  of  Britain, 
where  it  frequents  solitary  rocky  shores.  It  is  also  abundant  on  the  coasts  of  North  America. 


1217.— DUCK,   TO    STEW    WHOLE.       (Fr.— Canard 
en  Ragout.) 

Ingredients. — i  duck,  good  stock,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i|-  ozs.  of  flour, 
2  onions  sliced,  4  sage-leaves,  2  or  3  strips  of  lemon-thyme,  salt  and 
pepper,  fat  for  basting. 

Method. — Truss  the  duck,  baste  it  well  with  hot  fat,  and  cook  it 
quickly  either  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  or  in  a  hot  oven  until  well-browned. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onions  brown,  then  remove  them 
and  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  and  let  it  cook  slowly  until  well-browned. 
Place  the  duck  in  a  stewpan  containing  sufficient  hot  stock  to  barely 
cover  it,  add  the  fried  onions,  sage-leaves  and  lemon-thyme,  cover 
closely,  and  simmer  gently  for  \  an  hour.  When  ready,  strain  and  add 
£  of  a  pint  of  the  stock  to  the  blended  butter  and  flour,  stir  until  boiling, 
season  to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  for  5  minutes.  Serve  with  a  little 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    1'OULTRY  701 

pound    Over,    and    hand    the  -.•ar.iU-ly.     Plainly  - 

l)oi h-d  green  peas  should  accompany  this  di>h. 

Time.-  About  i   hour.  Average  Cost,  38.  c>d.  to  45. 6d.     Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons.     Seasonable  from  March  to  August. 

I.NSHIRR  FENS. — The  following  method  was  former' 
j  of  Lincolnshire.     The  favourite  haunts  of  the  buds  in  th 

resorted  were  noticed,  and  a  ditch  was  cut  across  the  entrance  to  the  most  - 
haunt.      This  ditch  of  a  circular  shape  narrowed  gradually   from  its  entrai: 

i  width.     On  each  side  of  the  ditch  the  banks  of  the  lake  w- 
!•  >se  herbage,  to  enable  the  ducks  to  rest  upon  them.     A 
ground,  close  to  the  edge  on  each  side,  the  top  of  the  p 

The  poles  then  bent  forward  at  the  entrance  to  the  ditch,  and  formed  an 
li  was  10  feet  distant  from  the  surface  of  the  water ;  the  arch  was  made  to  de- 
t  as  the  ditch  decreased  in  width,  so  that  the  remote  end  was  not  more  th.i 
t      The  poles  were  placed  about  6  ft.  from  each  other,  and  connected  with  ot! 
thwise  across  the  arch  and  fastened  together.     A  net  was  thrown  over  all,  and  m 

•r  10  yards  up  the  ditch,  and  afterwards  strongly  pegged  t<>  tin- 
ground.     At  the  end  of  the  ditch  furthest  from  the  entrance  was  fixed  a  "  tun: 

:  of  hoops  1 8  in.  in  diameter,  pi 

rr  to  keep  it  distended.    On  one  side  a  number  of  reed  fences,  called 
irpose  of  screening  the  decoy-man  from  observation,  aiv! 
-vl  in  the  decoy  might  not  be  alarmed  while  he  was  driving  those  in  the  pipe. 
••  about  4  yards  in  length  and  6  fret  i  l-rom  the 

••  last  shooting  a  person  could  not  see  the  lake  owing  to  the  bend  of  the  ditch,  ai 
was  then  no  further  occasion  for  shelter.     Except  for  these  "  shootings"  the  (owl  that  • 
about  the  mouth  of  the  ditch  would  have  been  alarmed  if  the  person  driving  the  ducks  alrea«l 
c  been  exposed,  and  would  become  so  shy  as  entirely  to  forsake  the  place. 

1218.— DUCK  WITH  CARROTS.     (Fr.— Canard  aux 
Carottes.) 

Ingredients. — Remains  of   cold  ducks,  3  or  4  large  carrots,^  a  pint  of 
sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  244  ),  i  oz.  of  butter,  sugar,  sal- 

Method.— Boil  the  carrots  in  a  small  quantity  ot  •  a  a  small  piece 

IT  until  tender,  then  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  season  to 

.     Cut  the  ducks  into  pieces  < 
for  serving,  put  them  into  the  hot  sauce,  and  let  them  simim  ; 

for  |  an  hour.     Place  the  puree  of  carrots  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange 
tin-  pieces  of  duck  neatly  on  the  top,  pour  the  sauce  rou: 

Time.     About    i    hour.     Average   Cost,   od.,   exclusive   of    t 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.      Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 

>G  AMD  DUCKS.— The  decoy-man  on  approaching  the  ditch,  describr  1 

t       '-.        .        i       •  ••  .i   ;  .    >'.      •    t  •!.••;•':.•:  :•!.-:          th,  ID  fMWVHlt   the  d       -..-•.'       .• 

(1  very  silently  a  I* 

:>lc  him  to  see  if  any  fowls  w. 

..tch.     If  successful  in  his  search 

flM  decoy-man  stopped,  made  a  motion  to  his  dog,  and  gave  him  a  piece  of  cbeev 
the  sagacious  animal  went  directly  to  a  hole  through  the  reed  fence,  and  the  birds  immediately  flew 
water.    The  dog  returned  aloof  the  bank  between  the  reed  fences,  and  came 
us  master  at  another  hole.    The  master  then  gave  his  canine  assistant  something  more  to 
:  and  the  dog  repeated  his  rounds  until  the  birds  were  attracted  by  his  motions,  and 
followed  him  into  th.  working"  the  durk 

.rther  back,  "  working  "  the  dog  at  different  holes  until  his  prey  were  suA- 
The  man  next  commanded  the  doc  to  lie  down  under  the  fence,  and  going 

litch  nearest  to  the  lake,  be  took  ofl  his  hat,  and  wav 

•  ngv     All  the  birds  that  were  under  the  net  could  then  ST.  t  those  which 

ke.     The  former   flew  forwards  ;  and  the  man  ran  to  th- 

<r  tunnel  n.  When 

• 

net  off  from  the  en  :  •-.  and  taking  the  ducks  put,  ooc  by 


702  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

1219.— DUCK,    ROASTED,     WILD.         (Fr.~  Canard 
Sauvage  Roti.) 

Ingredients. — i  wild  duck,  £  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  (see  Sauces, 
No.  244),  i  glass  of  port  wine  or  claret,  the  juice  of  a  Jemon,  water- 
cress, salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Draw  and  truss  the  bird,  and  roast  it  in  front  of  a  clear 
fire  or  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  45  minutes,  basting  frequently. 
Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  add  to  it  the  wine  and  lemon-juice,  season 
to  taste,  and  keep  hot  until  required.  Serve  the  duck  on  a  hot  dish, 
garnish  with  watercress,  previously  well  washed,  dried  and  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salad-oil,  and  send  the  sauce  to  table  in  a  sauce- 
boat. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  43.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 

DUCK'S  EGGS. — All  ducks  are  good  layers  if  carefully  fed  and  properly  tended.  Ducks  when  in  good 
health  usually  lay  at  night  or  early  in  the  morning,  and  one  of  the  surest  signs  of  indisposition 
among  birds  of  this  class  is  their  irregularity  in  laying.  The  tint  of  the  eggs  laid  depends  chiefly 
upon  the  colour  of  the  duck — light-coloured  ducks  laying  white  eggs,  brown  ducks  eggs  of 
greenish-blue,  and  dark-coloured  birds  producing  the  largest-sized  eggs.  When  placing  the  eggs 
of  other  birds  under  a  duck  to  be  hatched,  care  should  be  taken  that  the  eggs  match  those  of 
the  duck  as  nearly  as  possible,  otherwise  the  duck  may  turn  out  of  the  nest  and  destroy  the 
eggs  which  differ  from  her  own  in  size  and  colour. 

COOPING  AND  FEEDING  DUCKLINGS. — Brood  ducks  should  be  cooped  at  some  distance  from  the 
other  birds.  Just  outside  the  coop  should  be  placed  a  wide  and  flat  dish  of  water,  which  must  be 
frequently  renewed.  Barley  or  meal  should  be  given  to  the  ducklings  as  their  first  food.  If  the 
weather  be  wet  the  tails  of  the  young  birds  must  be  clipped  to  prevent  these  draggling  and  causing 
weakness.  The  state  of  the  weather  and  the  strength  of  the  ducklings  will  determine  the  period 
of  their  confinement  to  the  coop.  As  a  general  rule  a  fortnight  is  sufficient,  and  the  luxury  of  a 
swim  may  sometimes  be  permitted  them  at  the  end  of  a  week.  At  first  the  ducklings  should  not 
be  allowed  to  stay  too  long  in  the  water,  for  they  then  will  become  ill,  their  feathers  get  rough, 
and  their  stomachs  disarranged.  In  the  latter  case  the  birds  must  be  closely  cooped  up  for  a  few 
days,  and  bean-meal  or  oatmeal  be  mixed  with  their  usual  food. 

FATTENING  DUCKS. — Some  duck  keepers  allow  their  ducks  to  wander  about  and  pick  up  food 
for  themselves,  and  they  appear  to  fatten  on  this  precarious  living  ;  but  unless  ducks  are  supplied 
in  addition  to  chance  food  with  a  liberal  morning  and  evening  meal  of  corn  or  grain  their  flesh  will 
become  flabby  and  insipid.  The  simplest  way  to  fatten  ducks  is  to  allow  them  to  have  as  much 
substantial  food  as  they  will  eat,  especially  bruised  oats  and  pea-meal.  No  cramming  is  required, 
as  thev  will  eat  to  the  verge  of  suffocation.  They  should,  however,be  well  supplied  with  clean  water 
and  allowed  to  have  plenty  of  exercise. 


1220.— FOWL,  BOILED.      (Fr.— Poulet  Bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — i  fowl,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  |  of  a  pint 
of  stock,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
6  white  peppercorns,  salt. 

Method. — Truss  the  fowl  for  boiling.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  just 
large  enough  to  contain  the  fowl,  and  as  much  boiling  stock  or  water 
as  will  cover  it.  Rub  the  breast  of  the  bird  with  lemon,  wrap 
it  in  a  buttered  paper,  put  it  into  the  saucepan,  bring  to  the  boil, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  703 

and  skim  well.  Add  the  sliced  vegetables,  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns 
and  salt  if  necessary,  and  cook  very  gently  until  the  fowl  is  tender. 
A  young  fowl  should  be  ready  to  serve  at  the  end  of  i  hour,  but  an  old 
bird  may  need  twice  that  length  of  time.  Meanwhile,  melt  the  butter 
in  a  stcwpan,  add  the  flour,  cook  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning, 
pour  in  the  stock  (use  some  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  fowl  was  cooked 
if  none  other  is  at  hand),  and  boil  up,  stirring  all  the  time.  Season  to 
taste,  and  simmer  for  10  minutes,  or  until  the  fowl  is  ready.  Remove 
the  trussing  string,  place  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  the  sauce,  which 
must  be  thick  enough  to  coat  it,  garnish  with  chopped  truffle, 
parsley,  or  hard-boiled  yolk  of  egg,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i  to  2  hours,  according  to  age.     Average  Cost,  35.  3d. 
to  45.  6d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

THE  SPFCKLED  OR  SPANGLED  H\MBI*RG. — There  are  two  varieties  of  this  fowl — a  favourite  with 
many  fanciers— the  "  golden  speckled  "  and  the  "  silver  speckled."  The  general  colour  of  the 
former  is  golden  or  orange- yellow,  each  feather  having  a  glossy  dark  brown  or  black  tip. 

icicles  of  the  cock,  the  wing-coverts,  and  on  the  darker  feathers  of  the 
is  yellow  or  orange-brown,  the  feathers  are  margined  with  black.     The  ground  colour  <>f 
iver  speckled  "  bird  is  silver-white,  with  a  tinge  of  straw-yellow,  each  feather  being  edged 
with  a  glossy  black  half-moon  shaped  mark.     Both  these  varieties  are  very  handsome,  and  the  hens 
are  good  layers. 


1 22 1.— FOWL,    BOILED   WITH    OYSTERS. 

(Fr.— Poulet  aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. —  i  fowl,  3  dozen  oysters,  J  of  a  pint  of    Bechamel  sauce 
(see  S  o.  178)  £  a  gill  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  2 

eggs,    i  blade  of  mace,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Beard  the  oysters,  place  2  dozen  of  them  inside  the  fowl, 
and  truss  for  boiling.     Put  the  fowl  with  the  mace  and  butter  into  an 
•11  ware    fireproof   stew-jar    with    a   close-fitting    lid.     Place    the 
ir  in  a  baking-tin,  surround  with  boiling  water,  and  cook  on  the 
or  in  a  moderate  oven  for  2\  hours,  or  until  the  fowl  is  perfectly 
: .     Blanch  the  remaining  oysters  in  their  liquor,  strain  the  liquor, 
pour  it  over  the  oysters,  and  put  botl  .ul  required.     When  the 

fowl  is  sutik-imtly  cook  vr  it  to  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  liquor 

and  -Mil  it  to  the  Ik-chamel  sauce,  and,  when  boiling,  stir  in  the  cream 
and    ydks   of   eggs,   previously    Mended.     Continue    the   stirring   and 
ag  until  the  sauce  thickens,  but  it  must  not  boil,  or  the  eggs  may 
,  pour  a  little  of  the  sauce  over  the  fowl,  add 
I  their  liquor  to  the  remainder,  and  s.  rve  it  in  a  sauce- 
Time.     A  I. on!    ;  hours.     Average  Cost,  /s.  6d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  6 


704  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1222.— FOWL,  BROILED, WITH  MUSHROOM  SAUCE. 
(Fr. — Poulet  Grille  aux  Champignons.) 

See  "  Chicken,  Grilled,  with  Mushroom  Sauce,"  No.  1166. 

1223.— FOWL,  CURRIED.     (Fr.— Poulet  en  Kari.) 

See  "  Fowl,  Hashed,  Indian  Style,"  No.  1231,  also  "  Indian  Cookery." 

1224.— FOWL,  HASHED.     (Fr.— Hachis  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  cold  roast  fowls,  i  pint  of  stock,  i%  ozs. 
of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  fowls  into  neat  joints  and,  when  no  stock  is  at 
hand,  simmer  the  bones  and  trimmings  for  at  least  i  hour,  adding 
the  usual  flavouring  vegetables.  Melt  the  butter,  fry  the  flour  until 
lightly-browned,  add  the  stock,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season  to  taste, 
put  in  the  pieces  of  fowl,  let  the  stewpan  stand  for  at  least  \  an  hour, 
where  its  contents  will  keep  hot  without  cooking,  then  serve  with  the 
sauce  strained  over. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  9d.,  in  addition  to  the 
fowl.  Sufficient,  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

BLACK  SPANISH. — The  real  Spanish  fowl  is  characterized  by  its  uniformly  black  colour,  burnished 
with  tints  of  green,  its  peculiar  white  face,  and  the  large  development  of  its  comb  and  wattle — the 
large  high  comb  of  the  cock  being  erect — and  blue  legs.  The  Black  Spanish  fowl  is  an  excellent 
layer,  and  its  eggs  are  of  a  large  size.  It  is,  however,  a  bad  sitter,  and  its  eggs  should  therefore 
be  placed  in  the  nests  of  other  varieties  for  hatching.  It  is  a  good  bird  for  the  table,  although 
somewhat  small.  The  handsome  carriage  and  striking  contrast  of  colour  in  the  comb,  face  and 
plumage  make  the  Black  Spanish  fowl  an  addition  to  the  poultry  yard.  They  are  admirably  adapted 
as  a  town  fowl,  and  their  flesh  is  esteemed. 


1225.—  FOWL,    RAGOUT    OF.     (Fr.— Ragout  de  Vo- 
laille.) 

Ingredients. — i  fowl,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ham  or  bacon  cut  into  dice,  2%  ozs. 
of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i£  pints  of  stock,  i  onion  finely-chopped, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  fowl  into  neat  joints.  Heat  the  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  fry  the  pieces  of  fowl  until  nicely-browned,  then  remove  and 
keep  it  hot.  Fry  the  onion  slightly,  then  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  cook 
slowly  until  well-browned,  and  add  the  stock.  Stir  until  boiling, 
season  to  taste,  replace  the  fowl,  put  in  the  ham  or  bacon,  and  cover 
closely.  Cook  very  gently  from  i  to  i|  hours,  or  until  the  fowl  is 
tender,  then  serve  with  the  sauce  strained  over. 

Time. — About  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  to  43.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  more  persons,  according  to  size. 


CHICKEN   ENTREES. 


ft  :A 


lUlicocked. 


COLD    COLLATION    ENTREES. 


i.  Pigeon  Pie.     2.  French  Raised  Pie.     3.  Raised  Game  Pie,  with  Aspic  Jelly. 


42 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING   POULTRY  705 

1226.— FOWL,    ROAST,    GERMAN    STYLE. 

(Fr. — Poulet  Roti  aux  Matrons.) 

Ingredients. — i  fowl,  veal  farce,  i  Ib.  of  chestnuts,  i  Ib.  of  sausages, 
i  pint  of  good  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  I  lemon,   salt  and 

r.  butter  or  fat  for  basting. 

Method.-  Slit  the  skins  of  the  chestnuts,  throw  them  into  boilim: 
.  cook  them  for  15  minutes,  then  remove  both  skins,  and  bak< 
until  triKkr.     \\  h  lay  a  dozen  aside,  put  the  remainder  into 

the  body  of  the  bird,  and  stuff  the  crop  with  veal  forcemeat.  Truss 
.  and  roast  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  or  in  a  moderately-hot  oven 
for  about  i  hour,  basting  frequent '.  It  the  butter,  fry  the 

flour  until  the  stock  and  stir  until  !>• 

Season  to  taste,  add  the  remaining   :  its,  and  simmer  ; 

for  10  or  15  minutes.     Serve  garnished  with  fried  sausage  and  slices  of 
lennm.  A  the  sauce  to  table  s< 

Time. — About    i    hour.     Average   Cost,  45.   6d.   to  55.     Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  in  winter. 

THE  COCHIN  CHINA.— This  familiar  (owl,  a  native  of  Cochin  China,  now 
rtoiaintir  poultry  w.is.  on  the  introduction  of  the  first  pair  of  thcv  bird- 
MOM  "f  ^  n-:i..irk.i!  !••  'i<f."v    r    ••:..;  pottlt.  v  :        ,      -        '.'       :    •    .     A.  •. .    .-\'vi  »••  .!  !  v  tS-  I  •:••  '  "••••u 

.om  they  bad  been  prevented  at  the  Dublin  Poultry  Show  of  1846. 
an  immense  sensation  ;  the  approaches  to  the  bouse  of  a  dealer  who  possessed  some  of  tl. 
were  blocked  by  brougham*,  carriages  and  cabs.  containing  people  cage ; 

rt.it ion.      Large  sums  were  paid  for  the  coveted  birds,  and  guineas  . 
the  egg*.    The  reign  i  was,  howrver,  of  short 

ungainly  in  appearance,  but  is  .ID  •  ,<  the  winter,  and  its  buv 

i  esteemed  ;  tbe  o\:  ^h  is  inferior  to  that  of  the  Dorking  and  son. 

TOSS  breeding  with  other  varieties  it  is  much  improved. 

1227.— FOWL,  ROAST,     STUFFED.  (Fr.— Poulet 

Farci  roti.) 
Ingredients. —  i    fowl,   vral   forcei  o.  396,  bread  sauce,   : 

(sec  '  md  r.nu  «-cs  of  ba 

Method.  ^htly  into  tho  crop  of  the  t 

1  roast  in  front  of  a 

fried  rolls  of  bacon,  and 
1  gravy  s< 

Time.     Al-.ut  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  35.  oxi.  to  45.  ul.     Sufficient  for 
4  <>r  5  persons.     Seasonable  ;nie. 


v  ME  FOWL  (Fr.  coa  If  «>mAflf).— Thb  bird,  known  for  iti  rugnadow  UlspmHfan  and  kand- 
from  carl*  age*.     Plinv  write. :    -  The  gait  of  the  cock  n 
uanding;  he  walks  with  bead  erect  and  elevated  crest ;  alonrofafibir 


>  the  sky.  raising  at  the  same  time  his  curved  and  <cythe-formed  tail,  and  inspiring 
>u  himself,  that  m  ~t  intrepid  of  animate.  .  .  .     They  regulate  the  coodu. 

magistrates,  and  open  or  dote  to  them  thrir  own  houses.    They  prescribe  rwt  or  an  i  •»••••  lha 
Roman  lone*;  they  command  or  prohibit  battle*.     In  a  word,  they  lord  it  over  the  masters  of  the 
('.reeks  as  well  as  the  Romans,  "  alectomancy."  or  divination  by  m- 
is  in  the  case  of  deciding  the  day  on  which  a  battle  should  ba  f- 
<  orn  was  placed  on  the  letter  of  each  day  in  the  week,  turned  face  downwards ;  the  sacred 

t    luttlc 

WA*  rr^i'ljti  ,1         The   (,M-.-(1;n::   "f   .-.,••.-.•    f  ,«;.(-,,.   K    ,.•••:;.:••          .   ,    ;  r      tl        •   •.    '  ;.  •    i    -, 


•     •  .        •    r    A      •       ,      .    .  .     •  •       •  j        r    •  •  •      ••.-'••     ; .  •   i 

•T.I.  f.  •<    !":•.••,  ;-!   .;,-'<.,    .  ,  ,   ,         .  f      .v  ,   K.I  ,  .    ,         1  ;      h.ivc   J    kc  •. 

•I  I'.tti,  httVWi  :•• K-   :      '    •  i"  U:  -     :         •   :      •      -     ••'      •        "  "i" 

• 

•  v,  for  your  wives  and  children, 

A  A 


706  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

1228.— FOWL  STEWED  WITH  RICE.     (Fr.— Poulet 
au  riz.) 

Ingredients. — i  fowl,  4  ozs.  of  rice,  i  quart  of  stock,  2  or  3  onions, 
2  or  3  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
6  peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Truss  the  fowl  for  boiling,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  or  earthen- 
ware stew-casserole,  with  the  cold  stock;  when  it  boils  add  the  onions 
and  celery  in  large  pieces,  and  the  herbs  and  peppercorns  tied  in  muslin. 
Cover  closely,  and  cook  very  slowly  for  i  hour,  then  add  the  rice  (previ- 
ously well  washed),  salt  to  taste,  and  continue  the  gentle  cooking  until 
both  fowl  and  rice  are  perfectly  tender.  The  rice  should  absorb  nearly 
all  the  stock.  Before  serving,  remove  the  vegetables  and  herbs, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  the  fowl  on  a  hot  dish,  sur- 
rounded by  the  rice. 

Time. — From  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  9d.  to  43.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

THE  BEST  FOWLS  TO  FATTEN,  ETC. — The  chicks  most  likely  to  fatten  well  are  those  first  hatched  in 
the  brood,  and  those  with  the  shortest  legs.  Long-legged  fowls,  as  a  rule,  are  by  far  the  most  difficult 
to  fatten.  The  most  delicate  sort  are  those  which  are  put  up  to  fatten  as  soon  as  the  hen  forsakes 
them  ;  for,  as  says  an  old  writer,  "  then  they  will  be  in  fine  condition  and  full  of  flesh,  which  flesh 
is  afterwards  expended  in  the  exercise  of  foraging  for  food  and  in  the  increase  of  stature  ;  and  it 
may  be  a  work  of  some  weeks  to  recover  it,  especially  with  young  cocks."  But  whether  you  take 
them  in  hand  as  chicks  or  not  till  they  are  older,  the  three  prime  rules  to  be  observed  are— sound 
and  various  food,  warmth  and  cleanliness.  There  is  nothing  that  a  fatting  fowl  grows  so  fastidious 
about  as  water.  If  water  any  way  foul  be  offered  him  he  will  not  drink  it,  but  sulk  with  his  food 
and  pine,  and  you  all  the  while  wondering  the  reason  why.  Keep  them  separate,  allowing  to  each 
bird  as  much  space  as  you  can  spare.  Spread  the  ground  with  sharp  sandy  gravel;  take  care  that 
they  are  not  disturbed.  In  addition  to  their  regular  diet  of  bruised  corn,  make  them  a  cake  of  ground 
oats  or  beans,  brown  sugar,  milk  and  mutton  suet.  Let  the  cake  lie  till  it  is  stale,  then  crumble  it, 
and  give  each  bird  a  gill  measureful  morning  and  evening.  No  entire  grain  should  be  given  to  fowls 
during  the  time  they  are  fattening,  indeed  the  secret  of  success  lies  in  supplying  them  with  the 
most  nutritious  food  without  stint,  and  in  such  a  form  that  their  digestive  mills  shall  find  no  diffi- 
culty in  grinding  it. 

1229.— FONDU  OF  CHICKEN. 

See  "Chicken,  Ramakinsof,"  No.  1186,  and  "  Chicken,  Small  Souffle 
of,"  No.  1193. 

1230.— FOWL,  FRIED,  WITH  PEAS.       (Fr.— Poulet 
Saute  aux  petits  pois.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  i  or  2  cold  roast  fowls,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  pint  of  shelled  peas,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  fowl  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  and  boil 
the  bones  and  trimmings  down  for  stock.  Fry  the  fowl  in  hot  butter 
until  well-browned,  then  remove  and  keep  it  hot,  and  sprinkle  in  the 
flour.  Brown  slightly,  add  the  stock,  stir  until  boiling,  and  season 
to  taste.  Replace  the  fowl,  cover  closely,  draw  the  stewpan  aside 
where  the  contents  will  keep  hot  without  cooking,  and  let  it  remain 
for  £  an  hour.  Meanwhile  boil  and  drain  the  peas,  and  season  them 
with  pepper.  Serve  the  fowl  arranged  in  a  circle  on  a  hot  dish  with  the_ 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  707 

sauce  strained  over  and  the  peas  piled  in  the  centre,  or,  if  preferred, 
serve  the  peas  separately. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  6d.  to  2S.  9d.  Seasonable 
from  June  to  September. 

1231.— FOWL,    HASHED,    INDIAN   STYLE. 

(Fr.— Hachis  de  Volaille  a  1'  Indienne.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  cold  roast  fowls,  £  of  a  pint  of  curry, 
sauce,  see  Sauces,  No.  241. 

Method. — Divide  the  fowls  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  and 
when  stock  is  needed,  simmer  the  bones  and  trimmings  for  at  least 
i  hour  in  just  as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover  them.  Make  the  sauce 
as  directed,  put  in  the  pieces  of  fowl,  and  allow  the  stewpan  to  stand 
for  about  \  an  hour  where  its  contents  will  remain  just  below  simmering 
point.  Serve  with  boiled  rice. 

Time. — To  re-heat  the  fowl,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  <>;!.,  in 
addition  to  the  chick 

1232.— FOWL,  INDIAN  DISH   OF.      (Fr— Poulet  a   la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  i  or  2  cold  roast  fowls,  2  or  3 
onions  sliced,  2  or  3  ozs.  of  butter,*  i  tablespoonful  of  curry-p< 
salt,  i  lemon. 

Method. — Divide  the  fowl  into  neat  joints,  score  them,  spread  on  a 
lit  tit  butter,  sprinkle  on  a  little  salt  and  the  curry-powder,  and  let 
stand  lor  about  i  hour.  Heat  the  remainder  of  the  butter,  fry 
the  onions  brown,  tlun  remove  and  keep  hot  try  the  pieces 

ot  lowl.  ;»nd  when  nicely-browned,  pile  them  on  the  onions,  and  serve 
garnished   with  sliced   lemon. 

Time. — To  fry,  altogether,  about  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  exclusive 
of  the  fowl,  8d.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1 233. -GALANTINE  OF  FOWL.     (Fr.- Galantine  de 
Volaille.) 

Ingredients. — i  bom d  fowl,  i  Ib.  of  sausage  meat,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  ham 
or  bacon,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  2  truffles,  ^  an  oz.  of  pistachio  nuts 

1,  pepper  and  salt,  aromatic  spice. 

Method. — Bone  the  fowl  cut  it  down  the  centre  of  the  back,  spread 
it  out  on  the  table,  season  the  flesh  well,  and  distribute  it  in  such 

.rly  equal  •.       Spread  on  half 

.  on  the  top  place   narrow   strips  of   bacon,  slices 

«s  of  in;  -perse  the  nuts,  season  liberally  with  salt 

ami  }"  pi'<T,  and  cover  with  ihe  remainder  of  the  sausage  meat.     Roll 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

up  tightly,  fasten  securely  in  a  cloth,  and  simmer  gently  in  stock  for 
about  2  hours.  When  cooked,  tighten  the  cloth  and  press  between 
2  boards  or  dishes  until  cold.  Before  serving,  glaze  thickly  and  garnish 
with  aspic  jelly. 

Time. — About  2  hours,  to  cook  the  galantine.  Average  Cost,  53.  6d. 
to  8s.  6d.,  according  to  size  and  quality  of  fowl.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1234.— GIBLET     PIE.        (Fr.— Pate     aux     Abatis     a 
TAnglaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  set  of  goose  giblets,  i  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  i  onion,  a 
bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  puff  or  rough  paste,  salt, 
pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  giblets,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  onion 
sliced,  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  cover  with 
cold  water,  and  simmer  gently  from  i^-  to  2  hours.  Cut  the  steak  into 
small  thin  slices,  put  a  layer  of  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish,  add 
the  giblets  and  the  remainder  of  the  steak  in  alternate  layers,  and 
season  well.  Strain  the  stock,  season  to  taste,  pour  over  the  meat  to 
about  £  its  depth,  and  add  the  remainder  when  the  pie  is  baked.  Cover 
with  paste  (see  Veal  Pie,  No.  481),  bake  in  a  brisk  oven  for  about 
£  an  hour,  then  reduce  the  temperature,  and  continue  the  cooking 
for  about  45  minutes  longer.  The  appearance  of  the  pie  may  be  im- 
proved by  brushing  it  over  with  yolk  of  egg  either  before  baking 
or  when  it  is  3  parts  done.  Before  serving,  pour  in  the  remainder  of 
the  hot  stock. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  ij  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.,  exclusive 
of  the  giblets.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

I235._GIBLETS,  CAPILOTADE  OF.  (Fr.— Capilotade 
d'Abatis.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  giblets,  to  which  may  be  added  slices  of  any  kind 
of  cold  poultry  or  meat,  i  large  onion  shredded,  i  carrot  thinly  sliced, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  coarsely  chopped  mushrooms,  preferably  fresh 
ones,  salad-oil,  i  a  pint  of  good  stock,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  4  or  5  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  or  an  equal  quantity  of 
butter  into  a  stewpan,  and  when  it  is  thoroughly  hot  add  the  onion, 
carrot  and  mushrooms.  Sprinkle  in  the  flour,  cook  gently  for  about 
%  an  hour,  then  add  the  stock,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season  to  taste, 
put  in  the  giblets,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve.  In  Italy,  white 
wine  is  used  instead  of  stock. 

Time. — To  re-heat  the  giblets,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
is.  4d.  to  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from 
September  to  February. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  709 

1236.— GIBLETS,  STEWED.     (Fr.— Abatis  d'Oie.) 

Ingredients. — i  set  of  goose  giblets,  f  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  the  giblets  as  directed  in  the  recipe,  wash  them, 
cover  them  with  stock  and  water,  and  stew  them  until  tender.  Remove 
the  liver,  neck  and  tendons  as  soon  as  these  are  sufficiently  cooked, 
and  continue  to  stew  the  gizzard  until  it  can  be  easily  pierced  with  a 
fork.  Meanwhile  heat  the  butter  in  a  stcwpan,  fry  the  flour  brown, 
and,  when  ready,  remove  the  giblets,  and  strain  f  of  a  pint  of  the 
stock  on  to  the  flour  and  butter.  Stir  until  boiling,  season  to  taste, 
put  in  the  giblets,  and  when  thoroughly  hot,  serve. 

Time.— About  2  hours  Average  Cost,  iid.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  February. 

1237.— GOOSE,  HASHED.      (Fr.—Ragout  d'Oie.) 

Ingredients. — Remains  of  roast  goose,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
i  pint  of  stock,  2  finely-chopped  onions,  6  button-mushrooms  or  a 
fi-w  fresh  ones,  2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,  6  allspice,  salt  and  pepper, 
croutons  of  frkd  bread,  apple  sauce,  No.  316. 

Method. — Cut  the  remains  of  the  goose  into  neat  pieces.  Fry  the 
onions  in  the  butter,  when  turning  brown  add  the  flour,  stir  over  the 
fire  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour,  then  add  the  stock,  and  boil 
for  10  minutes.  Add  the  goose,  mushrooms,  spices  wrapped  in  muslin, 
and  simmer  very  gently  for  $  of  an  hour.  Arrange  the  pieces  of  goose 
neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  remove  the  spices,  season  the  sauce  to  taste, 
and  pour  it  over.  Garnish  with  croutons  of  fried  bread,  and  serve  with 
apple  sauce. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  goose. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  February. 

THE  GOOSE  {Fr.  oif). — This  familiar  bird  is  generally  distributed  over  the  world,  being  met  with 

America,  Lapland,  Iceland,  Arabia  and  Persia.    There  are  many  varieties,  but  - 
not  differ  widely  from  each  other  ;   in  England  there  is  only  one  species,  which  is  supposed  to  be 
breed.     The  best  geese  are  those  on  the  borders  of  Suffolk,  and  in  Norfolk  and  Berkshire. 
but  the  largest  flocks  are  reared  in  the  fens  of  Lincolnshire  and  Cambridge.     Geese  thrive  best  where 
they  have  an  easy  access  to  wat.  -  ties  are  annually  sent  to  the  London  market. 

The  period  when  the  goose  is  at  its  greatest  perfection  for  the  table  is  when  it  has  just  acquired 
its  full  growth  .UK!  h .is  not  I-.--M:-.  The  best  time  for  green  geese  is  from  the  second  week 

ition  of  the  Michaelmas  goww  to 

Queen  Elizabeth,  who  is  said  to  have  chanced  to  dine  on  one  at  the  table  of  aa  English  baronet, 
te  news  of  the  defeat  of  the  Sp  t:  «  reached  her  Majesty.     In  commemoration  of 

this  event  she  commanded  the  goose  to  make  its  appearance  at  table  on  every  Michaelmas. 

1238.— GOOSE,  ROASTED.    (Fr.— Oie  Rotie.) 

Ingredients. —  i  goose,  onion  stuffing  (see  Forcemeats),  f  of  a  pint  of 

Method.      1'ivp.ip-    and    m.  oose,    put   the    onion    forcemeat 

it    well    with   hot     f.it,    and     cither   roast    or 

from  2    to  2^    hours,  according    to   size  and    age.     Baste   fre- 


7io 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


quently,  and  if  the  surface  is  not  well  browned,  dredge  with  flour  when 
the  bird  is  |-  cooked.  Remove  the  trussing  string,  serve  on  a  hot 
dish,  and  send  the  gravy  and  apple  sauce  to  table  in  sauce-boats. 

Time. — From  2  to  2,\  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  6s.  to  123.,  accord- 
ing to  size.  Sufficient  for  10  or  more  persons,  according  to  size.  Season- 
able from  September  to  February. 

THE  WILD  GOOSE.— This  bird  is  sometimes  called  the  "  Grey-lag,"  and  is  believed  to  be  the 
original  of  the  domestic  goose.  The  Gray-lag  (Anser  ferus)  is  a  denizen  of  all  the  extensive  marshy 
districts  throughout  the  temperate  regions  of  Europe.  Northwards  it  ranges  to  the  53°  of  latitude, 
and  southwards  to  the  northern  parts  of  Africa,  and  easterly  to  Persia.  It  is  the  legendary  bird 
that  saved  the  Capitol  by  its  vigilance,  and  was  valued  accordingly  by  the  grateful  Romans. 

I239._GOOSE  HAMS. 

Ingredients. — i  large  goose,  £  of  an  oz.  of  saltpetre,  2  ozs.  of  common 
salt,  i  oz.  of  coarse  sugar. 

Method. — Split  the  goose  down  the  back,  and  rub  in  the  saltpetre, 
salt  and  sugar.  Let  it  lie  in  pickle  12  days  in  summer,  14  in  winter. 
Rub  and  turn  it  regularly  every  day,  then  roll  it  in  sawdust  and  smoke 
it. 

Time. — 12  to  14  days.     Average  Cost,  gd.  to  is.  per  Ib. 

THE  BRENT  GOOSE. — This  is  the  smallest  and  most  numerous  of  the  species  of  the  geese  which 
visit  the  British  Islands.  It  makes  its  appearance  in  winter,  and  ranges  over  the  whole  of  the  coasts 
and  estuaries,  frequented  by  other  migratory  geese.  A  very  large  number  of  these  birds  annually 
resort  to  the  extensive  sandy  and  muddy  flats  which  lie  between  the  mainland  and  Holy  Island  on 
the  Northumbrian  coast,  and  are  covered  by  every  flow  of  the  tide.  This  part  of  the  coast  appears 
to  have  been  a  favourite  resort  of  these  birds  from  time  immemorial,  where  they  have  always  re- 
ceived the  name  of  Ware  geese,  possibly  from  the  fact  of  their  continually  feeding  on  marine  vege- 
tables. The  flesh  of  the  Brent  goose  has  an  agreeable  flavour. 

1240.— GOSLING  ROAST.         (See  To  Dress  a  Green 
Goose.) 

1241.— GREEN  GOOSE,  TO  DRESS  A.      (Fr.— Oison 
Roti.) 

Ingredients. — i   Goose,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Geese  are  called  green  until  they  are  about  4  months  old, 
and  should  not  be  stuffed.  After  the  goose  has  been  singed  and  trussed, 
put  into  the  body  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt,  and  the  butter  to 
moisten  it  inside.  Roast  before  a  clear  fire  for  about  |-  of  an  hour, 
allow  it  to  brown  nicely,  and  serve  with  a  brown  gravy,  and,  when  liked, 
gooseberry  sauce.  This  dish  should  be  garnished  with  watercresses. 

Time. — About  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  43..  6d.  each.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  August  to  November. 

THE  EGYPTIAN  GOOSE. — The  Greek  historian  Herodotus  calls  special  attention  to  this  bird,  which 
he  stated  was  held  sacred  by  the  ancient  Egyptians.  Mr.  Salt,  the  traveller,  remarks  :  "  Horus  Apollo 
says  the  old  geese  stay  with  their  young  in  the  most  imminent  danger,  at  the  risk  of  their  own  lives, 
which  I  have  myself  frequently  witnessed.  Vielpansier  is  the  goose  of  the  Nile,  and  wherever  this 
goose  is  represented  on  the  walls  of  the  temples  in  colours,  the  resemblance  may  be  clearly  traced." 
The  goose  is  also  stated  to  have  been  a  bird  under  the  care  of  the  goddess  Isis.  The  Egyptian 
goose  has  been  placed  by  the  naturalist,  Mr.  Gould,  among  the  birds  of  Europe  ;  not  from  the 
number  of  half-reclaimed  individuals  who  are  annually  shot  in  Britain,  but  from  the  circumstance  of 
its  occasionally  visiting  the  southern  parts  of  the  Continent  from  its  native  country  Africa. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  711 

1242.  -GUINEA   FOWL,    ROASTED.        (Fr.—  Pintade 
Rotie.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  guinea  fowl,  bacon,  fried  breadcrumbs,  bread  sauce, 
Espagnole  sauce,  No.  244  (see  Sauces),  watercress,  salad-oil,  salt  and 
•or. 

Method.  —  Truss  the  bird,  cover  the  breast  with  slices  of  fat  larding  bacon, 
and  roast  it  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  or  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about 
i  hour.  When  |-  cooked  remove  the  bacon,  that  the  breast  may  brown. 
.  drain,  and  dry  the  watercress,  and  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
a  little  salad-oil.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  walcrcrcs- 
hand  the  fried  breadcrumbs,  bread  sauce,  and  1  Espagnole  sauce  sepai 

Time.  —  About    i    hour.     Average   Cost,   from  48.   each.     Sufficient    i»i 
4  or  5  persons. 


THE  GUINEA  FOWL  (Fr.  pinUdt),  called  abo  Pintado,  is  a  genus  of  gallinaceous  birds  domesti- 
:i*s  to  the  some  family  as  the  pheasants.     It  is,  as  its  name  in 

;•>  common  in  poultry  yards,  and  bears  some  reso: 
'••-coloured,  variegated  with  small  white  spots.     Its  head  is  ornamented 
w.th  a  li.t-'l  ;      '  .  •  i-mce  or  "  casque."     The  wattles  are  prominent,  those  of  the  male  I* 

red,  and  those  of  the  female  red.     Its  site  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  the  common  fowl, 
4*  are  longer.     TV 

•nations.     Though  domesticate*  1 

and  is  apt  to  wander.     The  hoos  lav  abundantly,  and  its  esjcs  yellow-red  spotted  with  dark  brown. 
-h  is  not  so  white  as  that  \\,  and  more  resembles  •• 

>ur.    It  is  savoury  and  ea*y  of  digestion,  and  the  guinea-fowl  is  in  sea«»>n  when 
game  is  out. 

1243.  -LARK  PIE.      (Fr.—  Pate  de  Mauviettes.) 

Ingredients.      ;  Ib.  of  rump  bacon,  i  i 

of  good  stock.      For  the  farce  o;  :.J>K  -poonful- 

rrumbs.  i  table-spoonful  of  finely-chopped  suet  ,  i  iablespoonful  of  fmely- 
chonp  or  parboiled  cluck.  poonful  of  chopped 

mushrooms  (preferably  fresh  ones),  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped 

y,£  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finr  >n  -rind,  ^  of  a  teaspoon- 

fulof  powdered  mix  >od  pinch  of  nutmeg,  \  a  teaspoon- 

ful'.fsjlt,  {  of  a  teaspoonfal  of  pepper,  puff  paste,  the  yolk  of  i 

Method.—  Bone  the  larks  and  stuft  them  with  the  farce,  cut  the  beef 

mull  thin  slices,  and  the  bacon  into  strips.     Put  a  layer  «>: 
at  the  bottom  of  a  pic  «  aigc  the  larks  on  the  top,  inter 

the  remainder  of  the  meat  and  >  of  bacon,  season  well  with 

pepper  and  salt,  \  fill  with  stock,  and  cover  with  the  pa^ 

-vith  yolk  of  egg,  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  the  paste  ha^ 
and   Ixjcome  set,   then  cook  more  slowly  for  about    i    hour.     Before 
servin;:.   add    the   remaining  stock,  pouring  it   carefully  through   the 

!i  the  centre  of  the  pie.     S  iier  hot  or  cold,  but  a  little 

ic  must  be  added  to  the  stock  if  the  pie  led  to  be  eaten 

in  order  that  the  gravy  may  form  a  jelly. 

Time.  —  To  ba  -oi't  i^  or  i$  hours.     Average  Cost,  35.  6d. 

<*!.     Sufficient  for   6    or  8  persons.     Seasonable  from  November 


712  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1244.— LARKS,  BROILED.  (Fr.—  Mauviettes  Grillees.) 

Ingredients. — i  dozen  larks,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper, 
croutes  of  toasted  bread,  butter. 

Method. — Prepare  the  larks  as  directed  in  "  Larks,  Roasted,"  brush 
them  over  with  beaten  egg,  and  coat  them  carefully  with  breadcrumbs 
seasoned  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire  for  10 
minutes,  and  as  soon  as  the  breadcrumbs  are  set,  brush  them  lightly 
over  with  oiled  butter.  Serve  on  croutes. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  33.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  November  to  February. 

1245.— LARKS,  ROASTED.    (Fr.— Mauviettes  Roties.) 

Ingredients. — 12  larks,  12  small  thin  slices  of  bacon,  12  round  or  oval 
pieces  of  buttered  toast,  fried  breadcrumbs,  water-cress,  salad-oil, 
lemon,  butter  or  fat  for  basting,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pick  and  singe  the  birds,  cut  off  the  feet,  and  remove  the 
gizzards.  Truss  them  in  shape  by  means  of  a  skewer,  which  should 
be  long  enough  to  hold  six.  Brush  them  over  with  hot  butter  or  fat, 
cover  each  breast  with  a  piece  of  bacon,  and  roast  the  birds  before 
a  hot  fire  for  about  10  minutes,  basting  them  constantly.  Place  each 
bird  on  a  piece  of  toast,  arrange  them  in  a  close  circle  on  a  hot  dish, 
fill  the  centre  with  fried  breadcrumbs",  and  garnish  with  cut  lemons, 
and  watercress  seasoned  with  salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Time. — About  10  minutes,  to  roast.  Average  Cost,  from  2s.  to  35. 
per  dozen.  Sufficient,  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  November 
to  February. 

1246.— LARKS  STUFFED   AND   ROASTED. 

(Fr. — Mauviettes  Farcies  et  Roties.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  larks,  8  or  9  very  small  rolls  of  crisply-fried  bacon, 
8  or  9  round  or  oval  pieces  of  buttered  toast.  For  the  farce  or  stuffing  : 
i  oz.  of  warm  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  i  tablespoonful 
of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham  or  tongue,  i  large,  finely-chopped  fresh 
mushroom,  or  4  small  preserved  ones,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  i  very  finely-chopped  shallot,  salt  and  pepper,  egg, 
brown  breadcrumbs,  butter  for  basting,  fried  potato  straws. 

Method. — Prepare  the  birds  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  stuff  with  the 
prepared  farce,  coat  with  egg  and  brown  breadcrumbs,  truss  and  fix 
on  a  skewer,  and  roast  for  about  10  minutes  before  a  clear  fire.  As 
soon  as  the  coating  becomes  fixed,  baste  with  hot  butter,  and  repeat 
the  process  frequently.  Place  each  bird  on  a  piece  of  toast,  dish  them 
in  a  close  circle,  pile  the  potato  straws  in  the  centre,  and  garnish  with 
the  rolls  of  bacon.  Serve  with  a  boat  of  nicely  seasoned  gravy. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    POULTRY  713 

Time. — About  10  minutes  to  roast.  Average  Cost,  from  2s.  to  35. 
per  dozen.  Allow  2  to  each  person.  Seasonable  from  November  to  Feb- 
ruary. 

1247.— LARKS,   SALMI   OF.      (Fr.—  Salmis  de  Mau- 
viettes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  dozen  larks,  i  pint  of  good  gravy  or  stock,  i  glass 
of  port  wine  or  claret,  the  juice  of  \  a  lemon,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs  of 
flour,  3  finely-chopped  shallots,  cayenne,  salt,  butter  for  basting, 
croute  of  fried  bread. 

Method. — Roast  the  larks  before  a  clear  fire  or  in  a  moderately-hot 
oven  for  10  minutes,  basting  them  frequently  with  hot  butter.  Fry 
the  shallots  in  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  cook  over  the  fire  until  brown, 
put  in  the  stock,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Simmer  for  10  minutes,  add 
mr,  lemon-juice,  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste,  put  in  the  birds, 
and  cook  very  gently  for  about  10  minutes.  Dish  the  larks  on  the 
croute,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  s< 

Time. — About  20  minutes,  to  cook  the  larks.  Average  Cost,  43. 
.  Seasonable  from  November  to  February. 

1248.— PICKLED  POULTRY. 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  fowls,  4  quarts  of  w.<.<  r,  .  Ib.  of  common  salt, 
4  ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  }  of  an  oz.  of  saltpetre. 

Method. — Boil  the  salt,  sugar,  saltpetre  and  water  together  for  £  an 
hour,  skimming  when  r.  .  Pour  the  brine  into  an  earthenware 

.  and  when  quite  cold  put  in  Lhe  fowls,  and  let  them  remain 
2  or  3  days.  This  method  of  preserving  poultry  is  employed  in  South 
Africa,  Australia  and  other  hot  countries.  The  birds  are  killed,  imme- 
diately scalded  and  stripped  of  their  feathers,  and  at  once  immersed 
in  brine.  They  arc  usually  conveyed  to  market  in  small  barrels,  3  or 
4  brim:  packed  closely  together,  and  covered  with  brine.  They  arc 
best  v,  >cd  as  a  curry  or  pilau. 

1249.— PIGEONS,  COMPOTE  OF.     (Fr.— Compote  de 
Pigeons.) 

Ingredients.-  ,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  $  of  a  Ib.  of  raw  ham  or  bacon, 

2  dd/rii  Inn  ton  onions,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thymr.  Kiy-lr.if  ,  i  clove,  6  peppercorns,  i  pint  of  good  stock,  I  table- 

>ur,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Truss   the  pigeons    for  roasting,  cut   the  bacon  into  dice, 

,  and  fry  the  whole  in  hot  butter  until  well  browned. 

Add  t  n  boiling  put  in    the  herbs  and  the  carrot  and 

turnip,  previously  cut  into  dice.      Cover  closely  and  cook  gently  for 


714  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

nearly  i  hour.  A  few  minutes  before  serving  skim  off  all  the  fat, 
add  the  flour,  previously  blended  with  a  little  cold  water,  stir  until  the 
sauce  reboils,  season  to  taste,  and  simmer  at  least  10  minutes  to  cook 
the  flour.  Remove  the  trussing  strings,  cut  the  birds  in  halves,  arrange 
.them  neatly  on  a  hot  dish  strain  the  sauce  over,  group  the  vegetables 
and  bacon  round  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i|-  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  to  is.  6d.  each.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons. 

THE  PIGEON  (Fr.  pigeon).— This  familiar  bird  is  widely  distributed  over  the  world,  and 
some  species  are  found  even  in  the  Arctic  regions.  The  true  pigeons  or  Columbidac  are  represented 
by  the  stock-dove  ;  the  ring-dove  or  cushat  is  the  largest  British  species.  Pigeons  in  general  are 
arboreal  in  their  habits,  and  build  their  nests  in  high  places.  Their  food  consists  chiefly  of  grain 
The  note  of  the  pigeon  is  the  well-kno'.vn  "  cooing."  From  the  wild  or  rock  pigeon  the  numerous 
domestic  varieties  are  derived.  The  flesh  of  the  pigeon  is  savoury,  delicate  and  stimulating. 

1250.— PIGEONS,  CURRY  OF.  (Fr.—Kari  de  Pigeon.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pigeons,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  f-  of  a  pint  of  curry-sauce 
No.  241  (see  "  Sauces  "),  boiled  rice. 

Method. — Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  strain,  replace  in  the  stewpan, 
and  keep  hot  until  required.  Divide  each  pigeon  into  4  quarters, 
fry  them  in  hot  butter  until  well-browned,  and  drain  them  free  from 
fat.  Put  them  into  the  sauce,  let  the  stewpan  stand  for  about  ^  an 
hour,  where  its  contents  will  remain  just  below  simmering  point,  then 
serve  with  plainly-boiled  rice  handed  round  at  the  same  time. 

Time. — To  cook  in  the  sauce,  about  4-  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  pigeons, 
2s.  6d.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

THE  PIGEON-HOUSE  OR  DOVECOTE. — The  first  requisite  for  keeping  pigeons  is  the  provision  of  a  suit- 
able and  commodious  habitation.  This  may  be  a  wall-locker  fixed  to  the  side  of  a  house,  stable  or 
other  out-building,  or  a  pole-locker,  a  barrel,  or  barrel-shaped  structure,  fixed  upon  a  long  pole.  The 
latter  kind  of  locker  can  be  placed  on  a  lawn,  in  a  shrubbery  or  courtyard,  as  may  be  most  convenient. 
Each  pair  of  pigeons  should  have  two  holes  or  rooms  to  nest  in,  otherwise  there  will  be  the  constant 
possibility  of  confusion  among  the  inmates,  the  breaking  of  eggs  and  the  destruction  of  the  young 
birds.  If  pigeons  be  kept  for  the  special  purpose  of  pairing,  breeding  and  rearing  it  will  be  preferable 
to  keep  the  pigeons  in  a  loft  or  outhouse  adapted  for  that  object.  The  nesting  places  should  be  from 
12  in.  to  18  in.  in  height  and  depth,  and  2  ft.  6  in.  in  length  for  each  pair  of  birds.  Loose  movable 
boxes  may  be  used  with  advantage  if  floor-space  is  available. 

1251.— PIGEONS,  CUTLETS  OF,  WITH  ESPAGNOLE 
SAUCE.  (Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Pigeons  a 
TEspagnole.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pigeons,  6  ozs.  of  liver  farce  or  stuffing,  No.  398,  I 
pig's  caul,  •£  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce  (see  Sauces),  i\-  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  white  of  egg,  glaze,  asparagus  points,  green  peas,  or  other  suitable 
vegetable. 

Method. — Split  the  pigeons  in  half,  remove  all  bones  except  the  leg 
bones,  leave  the  feet  attached,  but  cut  off  the  tips  of  the  toes;  season 
well,  fold  the  skin  underneath,  form  the  birds  into  a  nice  plump  shape, 
fry  lightly  on  both  sides  in  hot  butter  and  press  between  2  dishes 
until  cold.  Wash  the  caul  in  salt  and  water  and  dry  well  before  using. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  715 

Mask  one  side  of  the  cutlets  with  the  prepared  farce,  enclose  them  in 
thin  pieces  of  caul,  brush  over  with  white  of  egg,  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  20  minutes.  Brush 
the  pigeons  over  with  liquid  glaze,  arrange  them  in  an  almost 
upright  position  on  a  potato  border,  fill  the  centre  with  the  prepared 
vegetable,  pour  the  hot  sauce  round  and  serve. 

Time. — Altogether  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  43.  6d.      Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons. 

ASPECT  OF  THE  PIGEOH-HOUSE. — The  front  of  a  pigeon-house  should  have  a  south-west  aspect  to  shel- 
ter th>:  lur.  U  from  the  cold  of  the  north  and  east  winds,  which  frequently  occasion  canker  in  the  mouth 
it  of  young  pigeons.      If  the  birds  are  kept  in  a  room  a  hole  should  be  mad?  in  the  roof 
of  the  building  fitted  with  a  trap-door,  which  can  be  opened  or  shut  at  convenience.     A  trap  or  cage 
Uo  be  provided  for  the  pigeons  to  perch  upon  and  look  about  them.  This  should  be  furnished 
ting-wires  to  protect  the  birds  from  the  attacks  of  cats,  which  will  frequently  depopulate 
a  whole  dovecote.     It  is  also  necessary  to  secure  the  pigeons  from  rats  and  mice  which  suck  the 
eggs.    The  platform  or  trap  should  be  painted  white  and  renewed  as  the  paint  wears  off,  white 
being  a  favourite  colour  with  pigeons ;  it  also  serves  as  a  conspicuous  mark,  enabling  the  birds  to 
find  their  way  home  when  flying  abroad.    The  boxes  should  be  painted  in  a  similar  manner.     Lime 
and  water  will  serve  the  purpose  as  well  as  paint. 

THE  NECESSITY  or  CLEAMUKKSS. — This  is  of  the  first  importance  in  keeping  the  birds  in  good  health 
and  comfort.  If  cleanliness  be  neglected  the  pigeons,  both  young  and  old,  will  speedily  be  covered 
with  filth  and  vermin.  The  pigeon-house  should  be  cleaned  once  a  week  at  least — more  frequently 
if  possible — and  the  floor  covered  with  sifted  gravel  or  fritty  sand,  which  aids  the  digestion  of  the 
•l«l  lime  and  salt  should  be  provided  for  the  formation  of  egfshell  and  the  prev 
are  liable.  Pigeons  are  very  fond  of  water,  and  should  t»-  1.; 


with  a  w  1.  often  renewed  ;  this  serves  them  for  a  bath,  cools  and  refreshes  the 

md  assists  them  to  keep  their  bodies  clear  of  vermin. 

1252.     PIGEONS,   DUCHESS  STYLE.      (Fr.— Pigeons 
a  la  Duchesse.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pigeons  (trussed),  4  or  5  ozs.  of  sausage  meat ,  i  [  ozs.  of 
butter,  \  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce  rs  No.  2.4;  :>rcad- 

crumb.i  trying-fat ,   t  nish,  peas,  beans  or  maccdoine. 

Method. — Cut    the   pigeons  in  halves,  remove  all  the  bones  except 
the  first  bone  of  the  leg,  season  well,  and  fold  the  skin  under,  shaping 
them  as  much  as  possible  like  plump  cutlets.     Fry  them  on  both  sides 
rifted  butter,  press  until  cold,  then  mask  the  upper  surfao 
e-meat   force.     Coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  fry  until  nicely 
ed  in  hot  fat  and  drain  well.  Arrange  neatly  on  a  potato  border, 
fill  the  centre  with  a  dressed  vegetable,  pour  the  sauce  round  and  serve. 
Time. — Altogether  about  \\  hours.      Average  Cost,  from  is.  to  is.  6d. 
each.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

.row*.— In  breeding  pigeons  it  to  necewary  to  match  a  cock  and  hen  and  shut  thrm 

ther,  or  place  them  near  to  each  other,  and  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  two  there  is  hn> 

their  mating.     Various  rules  have  been  laid  down  for  the  purpose  of  assisting  to  distinguish 

the  cock  from  the  hen  pigeons ;  but  the  masculine  fur  Hardness  and  action  of  the  cock  is  generally 

kablc.  th.it  he  is  easily  ascertained.     The  pigeon  being  monogamous,  the  male  attaches  and 

c-nhii.-x  hunv-;:  •        •  •  mak  .  in.!  th--  .ut..  boMQl  is  •  In  •  ..i.  .u..i  th-  ftdettty  ..«  th-  dove  to  it, 

;>roverbial.     Under  the  age  of  six  months  young  pigeons  are  termed  ••  squeakers,"  «n.l  then 

In-Kin  t«.  Ur-.l  whru  pr-.vrlv  in  ui.u;.-.!        Hi.-ir  OMrttUp  Kttd  th-  wtfl-kl  -w:i  to] f  VO*M    iti    the 

>t  when  acquired  and  commencing,  are  indications  of  their  approaching  union.     Nestlings, 
1  by  cock  and  ben,  are  termed  "  squabs."  aod  are  at  that  age  sold  and  used 
sh  »  far  more  delicate  than  that  of  older  birds.     The  dovebome  pigeon  is  said  to  breed 
.  when  well  supplied  with  food.       At  all  events,  pigeons  of  anr  healthy  and  well-estab- 
may  be  depended  upon  to  breed  eight  or  ten  times  in  the  year,  whence  it   may 
readily  be  conceived  bow  large  are  the  numbers  that  may  be  raised. 


716  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1253.— PIGEONS,  GRILLED.      (Fr.— Pigeons  Grilles.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  Bordeaux  Pigeons  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Split  the  birds  down  the  back,  flatten  them  with  a  cutlet- 
bat,  and  skewer  into  shape.  Brush  over  with  oil  or  butter,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  grill  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  from  15  to  20 
minutes,  turning  frequently.  Serve  with  tomato,  piquante,  brown, 
mushroom,  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — From  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  each, 
Sufficient,  for  4  or  6  persons. 

THE  CARRIER  PIGEOX. — Of  the  various  varieties  of  pigeons,  the  carrier,  with  the  exception  of 
the  blue-rock  pigeon,  is  probably  the  earliest  known  of  these  domestic  birds.  Carrier  pigeons  were 
used  to  convey  to  distant  parts  of  Greece  the  names  of  the  successful  competitors  in  the  Olympic 
games.  During  the  Crusades,  when  Acre  was  besieged  by  King  Richard  1,  his  antagonist  Saladin 
kept  up  a  constant  correspondence  with  the  beleaguered  garrison  by  means  of  carrier  pigeons.  The 
stratagem  was,  however,  discovered  when  the  crossbow  of  an  English  archer  brought  one  of  these 
feathered  messengers  to  the  ground,  and  Saladin's  plans  thus  unexpectedly  disclosed  were  frustrated. 

1254.— PIGEONS,  JUGGED.     (Fr.— Civet  de  Pigeon.) 

Ingredients. — 4  pigeons,  veal  forcemeat,  2  or  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
£  a  pint  of  strong  beef  stock,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  finely-chopped  onion, 
i  glass  of  port  or  claret,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Truss  the  pigeons  as  if  for  roasting,  fry  them  in  hot  butter 
until  well-browned,  then  place  them  in  a  stew-jar.  Brown  the  onion 
in  the  butter,  turn  both  into  the  stew- jar,  add  the  stock,  and  a  good 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  closely.  Place  the  jar  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  or,  if  more  convenient,  in  the  oven  in  a  baking 
tin  filled  with  water,  and  cook  slowly  for  2  hours.  Knead  the  flour  and 
i  oz.  of  butter  together,  divide  it  into  small  pieces,  and  add  these  to  the 
contents  of  the  jar  about  ^  an  hour  before  serving.  Shape  the  force- 
meat into  small  balls,  egg-crumb  them,  fry  them  in  hot  butter  or  fat, 
and  drain  well.  Add  the  wine  1 5  minutes  before  serving.  Serve  with 
the  sauce  poured  over,  and  garnished  with  the  fried  forcemeat  balls. 

Time. — About  24-  hours.  Average  Cost,  pigeons  from  is.  to  is.  6d. 
Sufficient,  for  6  to  8  persons.  Seasonable  any  time. 

TUMBLER  PIGEONS. — These  pigeons  are  general  favourites,  and  are  found  in  most  parts  of  the 
world.  They  derive  their  name  from  the  inherited  power  they  possess  of  turning  somersaults  in  the 
air.  The  Tumbler  pigeon  is  characterized  by  its  full  breast,  smooth  round  head,  thin  neck,  com- 
paratively short  beak,  and  unfeathered  legs  and  feet.  The  flight  and  tail  feathers  are  moderately 
long.  The  iris  of  a  perfect  bird  should  be  a  pearl-white.  In  the  colour  of  its  plumage  and  marking 
there  is  great  variety.  The  Almond  tumbler  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  these  birds.  Highly- 
bred  birds  will  attain  a  high  elevation  in  the  air,  and  there  exhibit  their  peculiar  powers.  There 
are  numerous  varieties  of  Tumbler  pigeons,  as  the  Cumulet  or  Volant,  Long- faced,  Whiteside, 
Muffled,  Beard,  Baldhead,  etc.  There  are  also  many  varieties  of  foreign  birds  of  this  particular 
class,  including  the  Bander,  Magpie,  Helmet  and  Stralsund  Tumblers. 

1255.— PIGEON  PIE.      (Fr.— Pate  de  Pigeons.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  pigeons,  i  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ham 
or  lean  bacon,  £  of  a  pint  of  good  stock,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  yolk 
of  i  egg,  puff  paste,  salt  and  pepper. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    POULTRY  717 

Method.  —  Cut  each  pigeon  into  4  or  more  pieces,  according  to  their 
size;  cut  the  beef  into  small  thin  slices,  the  ham  into  strips,  and  the 
eggs  into  sections  or  slices.  Put  these  ingredients  into  a  pie-dish  in 
layers,  season  well,  and  pour  in  stock  to  £  fill  the  dish.  Put  on  the  cover 
(see  "  Veal  and  Ham  Pie,"  No.  798),  brush  over  with  yolk  ofeg^,  bake  in 
quick  oven  until  the  paste  is  risen  and  set,  then  cook  at  a  lower 
temperature  for  about  i  hour.  Have  ready  a  few  of  the  pigeons'  feet, 
scalded  and  the  toes  cut  off,  also  the  remainder  of  the  stock.  Before 
S,  pour  in  the  stock  through  the  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  pie, 
and  replace  the  pastry  ornament  with  the  feet,  lixini;  them  in  a  nearly 
upright  position.  The  pie  may  be  served  cither  hot  or  cold  ;  if  the 
latter,  the  stock  must  form  a  jelly  when  cold. 

Time.  —  About  i£  hours,  to  bake  the  pie.  Average  Cost,  43.  to  45.  6d. 
Sufficient,  for  6  to  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


i'lGEOw.—  This  bird,  which  is  suppose*!  : 

s.     Its  colour  is  usually  blue  and  silver,  but  black,  red  and  \< 
Although  delicate  birds  to  rear,  if  crossed  with  the  common  pig 
bird  is  produced,  the  flesh  of  which  is  of  good  flavour  an  '. 

o  Spanish  Runt,  the  name  by  which  it  was  originally  known  in  England. 

•  r  bears  a  strong  resemblance  • 

I  and  beak  ;  but  the  Nun.  although  a  good  flyer,  has  not  the  power  <  • 

.cording  to  the  colour  of  its  bead  the  Nun  is  named  red,  yellow  or  black,  but  the  last  is  the 

ic  shell-crest,  a  sc:  '  -athers  rising  at  the  back  of  the  head, 

.  t  ly  at  each  side  of  the  head  ;  the  larger  and  more 

perfectly  it  is  formed,  the  more  highly  is  the  bird  esteemed  and  proportionately  valued.     The  head 

J  be  small  and  the  primary  flight  .•  rs  coloured,  but  the  rr 

white.     The  ins  of  a  well-bred  bird  should  be  of  the  purest  pearl-white.     The  toeuails  deep 
black.    The  handsome  appearance  of  the  Nun  renders  it  a  favourite  toy  pigeon. 

1256.—  PIGEONS,  POTTED.     (See  Chicken  Potted.) 

THE  TRUMPETER  PIGEOK.  —  This  bird  has  been  thus  designated  from  the  peculiarity  of  its  voice, 
s  the  sound  of  a  trumpet  instead  of  the  "  coo  "  of  other  pigeons.     It  is  of  a  : 
:>  legs  and  {••  .  ked  and  covwcd  with  long  fc 

is  loose  ;  black  and  white.     The  rose  on  the  forehead  in  a  bird  of  good  breeding 

should  -  ^ularly  and  cover  the  entire  head,  concealing  the  eyes  and  beak.     The  Trum- 

;  igeon  is  known  on  the  Continent  as  the  "Drummer." 

THE  WOOD  OR  WILD  PIGEON.  —  The  stock-dove,  as  the  wood  or  wild  pigeon  to  also  called,  is  still 
•  Ue  in  some  parts  of  Britain.  It  forms  its  nest  in  the  holes  of  rocks,  old 
•wsof  trees,  but,  unlike  the  ring-dove,  doe*  not  nestle  in  the  branches.  > 

,  igeons  still  vi&it  our  shores  in  the  winter,  making  their  a;  November  from 

their  more  northerly  retreats,  and  returning  thither  in  the  spring.     When  formerly  forests  of  beech- 
wood  covered  large  tracts  of  ground  in  England,  the  wood  pigeon  frequented  them  in  vast  numbers. 

1257.—  PIGEONS,  ROASTED.      (Fr.—  Pigeons  Rotis.) 

Ingredients.  —  Pigeons,  bacon,  watercress,  salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper 
.  tomato  or  piquante  sauce  (sc*  Sauces),  croutons  of  fried 
.d. 

Method.  —  Draw  and  truss  the  birds,  cover  each  breast  with  a  slice 

ling  bacon,  and  roast  before  a  clear  fire  or  in  a  brisk  oven  for 

about  20  or  30  minutes,  according  to  age  and  size.     Baste  frequently, 

cfore  serving  rcm<  .con  to  allow  the  breasts 

>ing  strir  fi  bacon, 

isly  washed.  < 

.isoncd  with  salt,  pepper,  and  salad-oil,  and  serve  the  sauce  in  a 
boat. 


718  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  each. 
Sufficient,  allow  i  bird  for  2  persons. 

FANTAIL. — This  well-known  and  curious  variety  is  characterized  by  its  possessing  the  power  of 
erecting  its  tail  in  the  manner  of  a  turkey  cock,  during  which  action  it  trembles  or  shakes  its 
neck  in  a  similar  way  to  the  peacock  when  moving  about  with  his  train  expanded  and  in  full  dis- 
play. The  chief  colour  of  the  fantail  is  pure  white,  but  black,  blue  and  other  hues  are  met  with. 
The  head  is  narrow  and  flat,  the  beak  long  and  slender,  the  legs  and  feet  naked,  the  tail-feathers 
long  and  broad.  When  flying,  the  fantail  contracts  its  tail  contrary  to  the  habit  of  other  pigeons. 
The  Fantail  is  common  in  India,  where  it  possibly  originated,  and  is  a  favourite  bird  with  the  Hindus, 
who  ornament  the  legs  of  their  Fantails  with  small  brass  bangles  containing  little  silver  balls. 

I2S3.-PIGEONS,    STEWED.  (Fr.— Compote    de 

Pigeons  a  la  Bourgeoise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pigeons,  £•  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce  (see  Sauces 
No.  244),  i  glass  of  claret,  i  oz.  of  butter,  %  a  pint  of  shelled  peas, 
12  button  onions,  6  or  7  very  small  carrots,  salt  and  pepper,  croute  of 
fried  bread,  i£  inches  in  thickness. 

Method. — Cut  each  pigeon  into  4  pieces,  and  fry  them  brown  in  the 
butter.  Have  ready  the  hot  Espagnole  sauce,  put  in  the  pigeons  and 
claret,  cover  closely,  and  stew  gently  for  about  35  minutes,  or  until 
the  birds  are  tender.  Strain  the  butter  into  a  small  stewpan,put  in  the 
onions,  and  cook  until  tender  and  well  browned.  Boil  the  carrots 
and  peas  separately,  and  drain  them  well.  Arrange  the  pigeons  on 
the  croute,  strain  the  sauce  over,  group  the  onions,  peas,  and  carrots 
tastefully  round  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  pigeons,  about  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  43. 
6d.  to  55.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

THE  JACOBIN. — This  is  one  of  the  most  prized  of  fancy  pigeons.  It  is  a  handsome  bird,  dis- 
tin<niished  by  a  remarkable  ruff  or  frill  of  raised  feathers,  which  commence  behind  the  head  and 
proceed  down  the  neck  and  breast,  forming  a  kind  of  hood  which,  if  perfect,  should  come  forward 
as  far  as  the  eyes.  In  form  the  Jacobin  should  be  slenderly  made,  narrow  shouldered,  with 
unfeathered  legs,  and  soft,  silky,  and  very  narrow  feathers  ;  the  head  should  be  somewhat  broad 
and  round,  and  the  eyes  pearl-white.  Its  principal  colours  are  red,  black,  white  and  yellow. 

THE  TU'RBIT  PIGEON. — This  variety  resembles  the  Jacobin,  having  a  kind  of  frill  in  the  fore 
part  of  the  neck.  The  present  breed  of  Turbit  is  characterized  by  a  full  frill,  small  head,  broad 
forehead,  short  thick  beak,  prominent  hazel  eyes,  the  wings  coloured  with  the  exception  of  the 
primary  'flight-feathers,  and  the  remainder  of  the  plumage  white.  The  feathers  at  the  back  of 
the  head  should  end  in  a  high,  sharp  point,  just  above  the  crown.  Turbits  are  of  various  hues,  black, 
red,  blue,  silver,  yellow  and  variants  of  these.  The  Oriental  Turbit,  a  stronger  built  bird  than  the 
English  Turbit,  has  no  crest. 

1259.— PIGEONS   WITH   OLIVES.    (Fr.   Pigeons   aux 
Olives.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pigeons,  24  stoned  French  olives,  |  of  a  pint  of 
Espagnole  sauce,  (see  Sauces  No.  244),  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  stock. 

Method. Divide  each  pigeon  into  quarters,  and  fry  them  brown 

in  the  butter.  Have  the  sauce  ready  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  pigeons, 
cover  closely,  and  cook  them  very  gently  for  about  40  minutes,  or  until 
tinder.  Meanwhile,  braise  or  stew  the  olives  in  a  little  good  stock. 
S3rvc  the  pigeons  on  a  hot  dish,  with  the  sauce  strained  over,  and  the 
olives  grouped  at  the  base. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    POULTRY  719 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  to  35.  oxl.  Sufficient 
for  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  BARB  PIGEON. — The  name  of  this  bird  is  probably  a  contraction  of  Barbary,  since  Shakes- 
peare refers  to  it  under  that  designation.  The  Barb  somewhat  resembles  the  Carrier  pigeon  in 
appearance.  The  head  is  broad  and  flat,  the  beak  short  and  the  wattle  small.  The  chief  character- 
istic of  the  Barb  is  the  spongy,  bright  red,  wheel-shaped  wattle,  standing  out  all  round  the  eyes, 
which  increases  in  size  until  the  bird  is  three  or  four  years  old.  The  brilliancy  of  the  colour  of  the 
eye  wattles  diminishes  with  age.  The  eyes  of  a  well-bred  Barb  should  be  pearl-white,  and  its  beak 
white. 

THE  ROCK  PIGEON. — In  its  wild  state  the  rock  pigeon  is  found  more  abundantly  on  the  rocky 
parts  of  the  West  of  Scotland  and  the  bold  shores  of  the  Western  Isles  than  in  any  other  parts  of 
the  British  Isles.  In  these  localities  the  pigeons  congregate  in  great  numbers,  and  flocks  from  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  coast  frequently  meet  on  the  feeding  grounds,  but  when  the  time  arrives  for  re- 
t  irning  to  rest  each  pigeon  keeps  to  its  own  party.  A  very  conspicuous  trait  of  the  rock  pigeon 
is  its  love  of  home  an  y  in  returning  to  it.  The  rock  pigeon  is  the  original  progenitor 

of  the  numerous  domestic  varieties  of  the  pigeon,  and  is  used  by  the  late  Dr.  Darwin  in  his  Origin 
of  Species  and  Animals  under  Domestication,  to  illustrate  his  theory  of  descent  by  natural  selection. 

THE  POUTER  PIGEON.— This  favourite  pigeon  is  a  tall  and  strong  bird  with  white  feather 
and  is  characterized  by  his  great  round  inflated  crop.  The  more  common  birds  of  this  variety  are 
the  blues,  buffs  and  whites,  or  an  intermixture  of  these  colours.  The  pouter  is  not  a  prolific 
is  a  bad  nurse,  and  degenerates,  if  not  repeatedly  crossed  and  re-crossed  with  fresh  stock, 
more  rapidly  than  any  other  kind  of  pigeon.  It  is,  however,  a  useful  bird,  being  much  attached 
to  its  home  and  strays  but  little,  and  thus  induces  more  restless  pigeons  of  other  varieties  to  remain 
at  home. 

THE  OWL  PIGEON. — Like  the  Turbit,  the  Owl  pigeon  has  a  remarkable  tuft  of  feathers  on  the 
•  ••iemblins;  a  frill  or  rosrtte,  going  partly  round  the  neck  ;  the  size  of  the  frill  constitutes 
a  point  of  exci-llenre  in  the  bird.  \\Vll-bred  birds  of  the  Owl  type  are  rounded,  broad  and  short 
from  the  eye  to  the  tip  of  the  beak,  which  should  be  short  and  thick,  the  eye  prominent  and  the 
breast  broad.  The  Owl  pigeon  is  probably  a  native  of  the  southern  shores  of  the  Mediterranean. 
There  are  several  van  <kered  Owl.  which  has  a  very  large  frill,  and 

is  supposed  to  have  come  from  China  ;  in  Ciermany  it  is  called  the  Chinese  Owl ;  the  African  ( >wl, 
with  bare  legs  and  destitute  of  a  crest;  and  the  Eastern  Owl,  imported  from  Turkey  and  Asia 
Minor. 

1260.— SAVOURY  DUCK. 

See  "  Faggots." 

1261.— SMOTHERED  CHICKEN. 

Ingredients. — A  boiled  fowl,  No.   1220,  white  sauce,  No.  222 
Method. — Divide  the  hot  cooked  fowl  into  neat  joints,  place  them  on 
a  hot  dish,  cover  completely  with  sauce,  then  serve. 

1262.— TURKEY,  BAKED,  A  LA  MILANAISE. 

See  "  Italian  Cookery." 

1263.— TURKEY,    BLANQUETTE    OF.       (Fr.  — Blan- 
quette  de  Dinde.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  a  cold  turkey,  $  of  a  pint  of  stock, 
i  \  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  yolk  of  egg,  2  tablespoon fu Is  of  cream, 

i  small  onion,  i  small  blade  of  mace,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  turkey  into  neat  slues,  and  set  these  aside  until 

wanted.      Put  the  bones,  trimmings,  onion,  mace  and  a  little  salt  and 

pan,  cover  with  coM   water,  simmer  gently  for  at 

hour,  and  strain.      Heal   the  butter  in  a  stewjun.  add  the  flour, 

cook  for  .i  few  minutes  without  browning,  put  in  the  stock,  and  stir 


720  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

until  boiling.  Simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  season  to  taste,  add  a 
pinch  of  nutmeg,  put  in  the  slices  of  turkey,  and  let  them  become 
quite  hot  without  boiling.  Mix  the  cream  and  yolk  of  egg  together, 
add  them  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  stir  gently  for  about  5  minutes, 
then  serve. 

Time. — To  re-heat  the  turkey,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d. 
to  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  turkey.  Sufficient  for  i  dish. 

THE  TURKEY  (Fr.  dindon). — This  is  one  of  the  gallinaceous  birds,  the  principal  genera  of  which 
are  the  pheasants,  turkeys,  peacocks,  bustards,  pintatoes  and  grouse.  They  live  chiefly  on  the 
ground  scraping  the  earth  with  their  feet,  and  feeding  on  seeds  and  grain  which,  previous  to  diges- 
tion, are  macerated  in  their  crops.  They  usually  associate  in  families  consisting  of  one  male  and 
several  females.  Turkeys  are  especially  partial  to  the  seeds  of  nettles.  The  common  turkey  is  a 
native  of  North  America,  and  it  was  introduced  into  England  during  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII. 
According  to  Tusser's  Five  Hundred  Points  oj  Good  Husbandry,  it  began  about  the  year  1585  to  form 
a  dish  at  the  rural  Christmas  feast. 

"Beefe,  mutton,  and  pork,  shred  pies  of  the  best, 
Pig,  veal,  goose  and  capon,  and  turkey  well  drest : 
Cheese,  apples  and  nuts,  jolly  carols  to  hear, 
As  then  in  the  country  is  counted  good  cheer." 

The  turkey  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  birds  to  rear,  and  its  flesh  is  much  esteemed. 

1264.— TURKEY,  BOILED.       (Fr.— Dinde  Bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — i  turkey,  sausage  meat  (i  to  2  Ibs.,  according  to  size  of 
turkey),  forcemeat  balls  (see  Forcemeats)  ;  a  small  head  of  celery, 

1  pint  of  celery  sauce  (see    Sauces  No.  1 84),    stock  or  water,  2  onions, 

2  carrots,  i   small  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
6  white  peppercorns,  salt. 

Method. — Prepare  and  truss  the  turkey  for  boiling,  stuif  the  crop  with 
sausage  meat,  wrap  the  bird  in  a  well-buttered  paper,  and  put  it  into  a 
pan  containing  as  much  boiling  stock  or  water  as  will  cover  it.  When  the 
liquor  boils,  add  the  onions,  carrots,  and  turnip  cut  into  large  pieces, 
the  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns,  and  salt  to  taste,  put  on  the  cover 
and  cook  gently  from  i%  to  T\  hours,  according  to  size.  Meanwhile, 
make  the  forcemeat  balls,  and  fry  them  in  a  little  hot  fat  or  butter. 
Cut  the  celery  into  neat  pieces,  and  boil  in  well-seasoned  stock  or  water 
until  tender.  When  the  turkey  is  sufficiently  cooked,  remove  the 
trussing  skewers  and  strings,  place  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over, 
and  garnish  with  groups  of  celery,  dice,  and  forcemeat  balls.  If  pre- 
ferred, Bechamel  sauce  may  be  substituted  for  the  celery  sauce  ;  in  any 
case  the  quantity  provided  should  be  proportionate  to  the  size  of  the 
bird.  Boiled  ham  or  tongue  usually  accompanies  boiled  turkey. 

Time. — From  2  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  6s.  to  203.,  according  to 
size  of  turkey  and  season.  Seasonable,  from  September  to  March.  In 
best  condition  in  December  and  January. 

The  Disposition  of  the  Turkey. — The  turkey  among  its  own  flock  is  both  fierce  and  quarrelsome, 
but  among  other  birds  is  usually  both  weak  and  cowardly.  The  domestic  cock  will  often  keep  a 
flock  of  turkeys  at  a  distance  and  they  will  rarely  attack  him  except  in  an  united  body,  when  the 
cock  is  crushed  rather  by  the  superior  weight  of  his  antagonists  than  by  their  prowess.  The  female 
is  less  ferocious  in  her  disposition  than  the  male,  and  when  leading  forth  her  young,  to  which  she 
is  very  affectionate,  to  collect  their  food,  gives  them  if  attacked  but  slight  protection,  warning  them, 
of  their  danger  rather  than  offering  to  protect  her  threatened  brood. 


GAME    &    POULTRY. 


i.— Snipe  on  Toast.          a.— Larks  on  Toast.          3.— Roast  Pheasant.          4.— Roast  Pigeons. 
-Roast  Fowl.  6      Roast  Goose  7--Roa*t  Duck.  8. -Boiled  Fowl. 

9.— Roast  Turkey 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    POULTRY  721 

1265.— TURKEY,    CROQUETTES    OF.         (Fr.— Cro- 
quettes de  Dinde.) 

See  "Chicken,  Croquettes  of,"  No.  1157. 

1266.— TURKEY,    DEVILLED.         (Fr.— Dinde    a    la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  roast  turkey.  For  the  devilled  butter  :  i  oz.  of 
butter,  \  a  saltspoonful  each  of  cayenne,  Hick  pepper,  and  curry  - 
powder,  a  pinch  of  ground  ginger,  piquante  sauce. 

Method.— Mix  the  ingredients  W  the  devilled  butter  together  on  a 

the  turkey  into  pieces  convenient  for  sen.  ing,  remove 

all  skin,  score  the  and  spread  lightly  with  the  butter. 

lor  i  hour,  or   longer  when  a  highly  - 
then  grill  over  the  fire,  and  serve  with  piq 
or  other  suitable  s.. 

Time. — To  grill,  about  8  minutes.     Average  Cost,  ,^  of  the 

turkey.     Sufficient,  one  1<  ;  will  serve  2  persons. 

ST.  TURKEYS.— A  favourite  diversion  among  the  Indians  of  Canada  was  banting  turkey*, 
the  retreat  of  these  birds  was  discovered,  usually  near  to  a  field  of  nettles  or  grain  a  well- 
log  was  sent  among  the  flock.    As  soon  as  the  turkey*  pen-- 

••d,  leaving  the  dog  far  behind,  but  still  following  in  their  wake.       The 
!  oeir  efforts  after  a  time  sought  shelter  in  the  trees.    Sitting  there  worn  out  by 
;rds  were  easily  secured  by  the  hunters,  who  knocked  them  down  one  by  one 
:  poles  which  they  carried  for  that  purpose. 

1267. -TURKEY,    DEVILLED.          (Fr.— Dinde    a    la 
Diable.)     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  turkey  legs,  made  mr.  r  and  salt 

Method. — Score  tl  deep   ridges,  in  regular  lines,  both  along 

e  and  salt  these,  adding  cayenne,  when  liked  viry 

d    mustard,  r  \\ell    into    the    op. 

and    let    it    remain    until    the    next    morning.       Have   a  bright 
until  the  outside  is  crisp  and  brown.     Sprca 

small  pieces  of  fresh  butter,  seasoned  with  cayenne.and  ackly. 

Time.     A  <>  grill.     Average  Cost,  4d.,  e 

.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1268.— TURKEY,    FRICASSEE    OF.     (Fr.— Fricassee 

de  Dinde.) 
See  "Chicken,  Fricasseed,"  No.  1164. 

1269.— TURKEY,  GALANTINE  OF. 

;$,  and   use  a    boned   turk 
ken. 


722  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1270.— TURKEY,  HASHED.     (Fr.—  Hachie  de  Dinde.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  cold  roast  turkey,  i|-  ozs.  of  butter, 
i^  ozs.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  made  from  bones  and  trimmings 
of  turkey,  salt  and  pepper,  a  few  drops  of  liquid  caramel. 

Method. — Divide  the  turkey  into  small  neat  joints,  and  put  them 
aside.  Put  the  bones  and  trimmings  into  a  stewpan  with  a  small 
onion,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  few  peppercorns  and  a  little  salt,  simmer 
gently  for  2  hours,  then  strain  and  use.  Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the 
flour,  add  the  stock,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Let  the  sauce  boil  gently 
for  about  10  minutes,  in  order  that  the  flour  may  be  thoroughly  cooked, 
then  season  to  taste,  add  the  pieces  of  turkey,  draw  the  stewpan  aside, 
and  let  it  remain  for  about  \  an  hour,  where  the  contents  will  be  kept 
just  below  simmering  point.  Before  serving,  improve  the  colour  of 
the  sauce  by  the  addition  of  a  few  drops  of  caramel.  The  dish  may  be 
garnished  with  sippets  of  toasted  bread,  or  surrounded  by  a  border 
of  mashed  potato. 

Time. — About  45  minutes  after  the  stock  is  made.  Average  Cost,  6d. 
exclusive  of  the  turkey. 

Note. — For  other  methods  of  re-heating  turkey,  see  the  numerous  recipes 
for,  re- heating  chicken. 

ENGLISH  TURKEYS. — These  are  reared  in  great  numbers  in  Suffok,  Norfolk  and  several  other 
counties,  whence  they  were  wont  to  be  driven  to  the  London  market  in  flocks  of  several  hundreds  ; 
the  improvements  in  our  modes  of  travelling  now,  however,  enable  them  to  be  brought  by  rail- 
way. Their  drivers  used  to  manage  them  with  great  facility,  by  means  of  a  bit  of  red  rag  tied  to 
the  end  of  a  long  stick,  which,  from  the  antipathy  these  birds  have  to  that  colour,  effectually 
answered  the  purpose  of  a  scourge.  There  are  three  varieties  of  the  turkey  in  this  country,  the 
black,  the  white,  and  the  speckled  or  copper-coloured.  The  black  approaches  nearest  the  original 
stock,  and  is  esteemed  the  best.  Its  flesh  is  white  and  tender,  delicate,  nourishing  and  of  excellent 
flavour ;  it  greatly  deteriorates  with  age,  however,  and  is  then  good  for  little  but  stewing. 


1271.— TURKEY  POULT,  ROASTED.      (Fr.— Dindon 
roti.) 

Ingredients. — Turkey  poult,  butter  or  fat  for  basting,  gravy  (see 
"Gravies"). 

Method. — Truss  the  bird  for  roasting  and  cover  the  breast  with  2 
or  3  folds  of  buttered  paper.  Roast  for  about  i  hour  in  front  of  a 
clear  fire,  basting  frequently,  and  serve  with  good  gravy,  and,  if  liked, 
either  fried  bacon  or  boiled  ham. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6s.  to  73.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  June  to  October. 

THE  WILD  TURKEY. — In  its  wild  state  the  turkey  is  a  gregarious  bird,  going  together  in  large 
flocks,  frequently  some  hundreds  in  number.  They  frequent  the  great  swamps  of  America,  where 
they  roost,  but  at  sunrise  repair  to  the  dry  woods  in  search  of  berries  and  acorns.  They  perch  on 
the  boughs  of  trees,  usually  mounting  to  the  highest  tops.  In  its  manner  of  flight  the  wild  turkey 
is  awkward,  but  runs  with  great  swiftness.  In  the  early  spring  they  become  so  fat  that  they 
are  readily  overtaken  by  a  horseman.  Wild  turkeys  are  now  rare  in  the  inhabited  parts  of  America, 
but  are  found  in  great  numbers  in  the  more  distant  and  less  frequented  districts. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    POULTRY  723 

1272.—  TURKEY,  ROASTED.     (Fr.—  Dinde  Roti.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  turkey,  i  to  2  Ib.  of  sausage  meat,  i  to  i£  Ib.  of  veal 
see  Forcemeats),  2  or  3  slices  of  bacon,  i  pint  of  good  gravy. 
'.  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  180),  fat  for  bas; 
Method.     Prepare   and    truss  the  turkey.    Fill  the  crop  with  sa 

and  put  the  veal  forcemeat  inside  the  body  of  the  bird.   Skrwrr 
icon  over  the  istc  well  \\ithhot  fat,  and  roast  in  front 

tire  or  in  a  moderate  oven  from  if  to  2^  hours,  accord  i 
(1  size  of  the  bird.      Baste  frequently,  and  about  20  minutes  be- 
4    remove  the  bacon  to  allow  the  breast  to  brown.       K.  - 
move  the  trussing  strings,  serve    on  a  hot  dish,  and  send  the  gravy 
iiml  bread  sauce  to  table  in  sauce-boats. 

Time.  —  From   ij  to  2$  hours.     Average  Cost,  los.  to  i6s.    Seasonable 
Scpti'nilier  to  February. 


1273.—  TURKEY,   STEWED   OR   BRAISED. 

(Fr.  —  Dinde  braise.) 

Ingredients,     i  small  turkry,  2  or  3  slices  of  bacon,  4  ozs.  of  t> 

1.  i  turnip  sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (pa 
i'|KTCorns,  salt  and  jx-pper,    i   pint  of  oyster 

10  "\   Sto 

Method.     Tni-s  tin-    1-nd     as    for    roasting.       11-  -ittrr  in  a 

until  tli.    \\holc  surface  is  wcll-brov, 

s,  bouquct-garni,  peppercorns  and  a 

good  seasoning  of  salt,  and  add  stock  to  n  hole.     Re- 

cr  closely, 
"k  grntly  for  about  2  hours,  or  until  the  tin! 

!  ini-^ht  1  as  when  roas* 

Time.  —  About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  6s.  6d.  to  8s.  6d.,  exclusive 

Sufflclent  for    8    persons.     Seasonable    September  to 
iary. 

Tut  OMGIM  or  THE  Ti'RKKY.—  It  b  to  North  America  that  we  an  indebted  for  this  bird,  whirh 
h  popularly  aModatod  with  Chmtma*  far*  and  rvioktaff.    It  b  a*MTtod  by  MOM  that  th 
wa»  known  to  the  ancfeota,  and  that  it  formed  a  d&h  at  the  wedding  feast  o<  Charitmafne.    Tbrre 

U.  hnwrvrr.  httlr  .l-ubt  th  »t  :t  h  .1  :   ItNl  <  f  t!.r  |    ft*  •  ••.   (UMTi   ..    «!,  -  ,-    ,t    E    f    5    E    Hi    M   '  ! 


reared  ;  now  about  fifteen 
number  arrive  at  matur 

1274.     TURKEY  WITH   CHESTNUTS.      (Fr.— Dinde 

Farcie  aux  Matrons. ) 
Ingredients,     i  turkey,  2  or  3  Ib.  of  chestnuts,  i  to  1}  Ib.  of  sausage 


724         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

meat  or  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  3  or  4  slices  of  bacon,  \  a  pint 
of  stock,  i  pint  of  good  gravy,  or  brown  sauce  (see  Gravies  and  Sauces), 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  egg,  a  little  cream  or  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Slit  the  skins  of  the  chestnuts,  throw  them  into  boiling 
water,  cook  for  15  minutes,  then  remove  both  skins.  Replace  in  the 
stewpan,  add  the  stock,  cover  closely  and  simmer  gently  for  nearly 
i  hour,  or  until  the  chestnuts  are  tender.  Rub  them  through  a  fine 
sieve,  add  the  butter,  egg,  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  if 
the  puree  appears  at  all  dry,  a  little  cream  or  milk.  Prepare,  and 
truss  the  turkey,  stuff  the  crop  with  sausage  meat  or  veal  farce, 
and  fill  the  body  with  the  chestnut  puree.  Skewer  the  bacon 
over  the  breast,  baste  well  with  hot  fat,  and  roast  before  a  clear  fire 
or  in  a  moderate  oven  from  if  to  2^  hours,  according  to  size.  Baste 
well,  and  shortly  before  serving  remove  the  bacon  in  order  that  the 
breast  may  brown.  Remove  the  trussing  strings,  serve  on  a  hot  dish, 
and  send  the  sauce  or  gravy  to  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — From  if  to  2%  hours.  Average  Cost,  IDS.  to  i6s.  Seasonable 
from  September  to  February ;  in  best  condition  in  December  and 
January. 

THE  FEATHERS  OF  THE  TURKEY. — Human  ingenuity  has  utilized  almost  every  material  for  use  or  for 
ornament,  and  among  primitive  races  feathers  have  been  widely  employed  for  such  purposes.  The 
American  Indians  made  an  elegant  cloth  by  twisting  the  inner  ribs  of  the  turkey's  feathers  into  a 
strong  double  string  with  hemp  or  the  inner  bark  of  the  mulberry  tree,  weaving  these  materials 
in  a  similar  manner  to  matting  and  forming  a  fabric  of  a  rich  and  glossy  appearance.  The  tail 
feathers  were  made  into  fans  by  the  Indians  of  Louisiana. 

1275.— TURKEY,  WITH  CHIPOLATA  GARNISH. 

(Fr. — Dinde  a  la  Chipolata.) 

Ingredients. — i  turkey,  i^-  to  2^  Ib.  of  sausage  meat,  i  to  2  Ib.  of  veal 
forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  larding  bacon,  i  bottle  of  preserved 
mushrooms,  -J  a  pint  each  of  carrot  and  turnip  scooped  out  into  rounds, 
i£  ozs.  of  butter,  £  a  pint  of  stock,  i  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  No.  244, 
fat  for  basting. 

Method. — Prepare  and  truss  the  turkey,  lard  the  breast,  put  £ 
a  Ib.  of  the  sausage  meat  aside,  the  remainder  into  the  crop  of  the 
bird,  and  stuff  the  body  with  veal  forcemeat.  Baste  well  with  hot  fat, 
and  roast  before  a  clear  fire,  or  in  a  moderate  oven  from  if  to  2 J  hours, 
according  to  size.  Baste  frequently,  and  as  soon  as  the  breast  has  ac- 
quired sufficient  colour,  cover  it  with  3  or  4  folds  of  greased  paper. 
Divide  the  butter  and  put  it  into  2  small  stewpans,  add  the  carrots 
to  one  and  the  turnips  to  the  other,  and  fry  for  10  or  1 5  minutes.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  add  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  stock,  cover  closely, 
and  cook  the  carrot  gently  for  about  45  minutes,  and  the  turnip  for 
£  that  length  of  time.  The  stewpans  should  be  occasionally  shaken, 
and  it  may  be  necessary  to  add  more  stock,  all  of  which,  however, 
must  be  well  drained  from  the  vegetables  before  dishing.  15  minutes 
before  serving,  put  the  mushrooms  and  their  liquor  into  a  stewpan, 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   POULTRY  725 

let  them  become  thoroughly  hot,  then  drain  and  use.  Shape  the 
remainder  of  the  sausage  meat  into  small  balls,  and  fry  them  in  hot 
butter  or  fat  until  brown.  Remove  the  trussing  strings,  place  the 
turkey  on  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the  mushrooms,  carrots,  turnips  and  sau- 
sage meat  balls  in  groups,  and  serve  the  Espagnole  sauce  in  a  sauce- 
boat. 

Time. — From  ij  to  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  IDS.  to  i6s.  Sufficient 
for  \2  or  more  persons,  according  to  size  of  the  turkey.  Seasonable 
from  September  to  March  ;  in  best  condition  in  December  and  January. 

1276.— TURKEY,  WITH  MUSTARD  SAUCE. 

(JF>.— Dinde,  Sauce  Moutarde.) 

Ingredients. — 2  turl  t  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (see  S. 

j  ;;)  i    t.iblespoonful   ol    ni.ule  must. ml,    i    tablcspoonful  of  piquantc 

(see  Sauces,  No.  265). 
Method. — Score   the  le-s  «!<•< -ply,  pour  over  them  the  mustard  ami 

.  for  %  an  hour,  or  l<»n-i -r  il  pr< 

seasoned.     Make   the  l>i<>  •  as  directed,  add   to  it   the 

ul  the  in  for  20  minutes,  then  serve  on  a 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  yd.,  exclusive  of  the  turkey. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  per 

1277.— WHEATEARS,  TO  DRESS. 

Ingredients. — Wheatears,  fresh  butter,  water. 

Method. — After  the  birds  are  picked,  drawn  and  cleaned,  truss  them 
;ks,  c<x»k   them  in  front  of  a  quick  fire,  and  baste  them  well  with 
oiled  butter.     When  done,  which  will  be  in  about  20  minutes. 

ic  dish  with  watercress,  and  serve  with  fried  bread- 
cm:: 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  6d.  each.  Seasonable  from 
July  to  October. 


1  HEATIAJT  (Fr.  vitrrc).— Thisekuant  little  bird,  some  6  inches  in  length,  beJoncs  to  t' 

.'.  or  Warblm.  and  b  a  visitant  of  Britain  during  the  summer,  arrivin*  from  the 

li  to  May  and  quitting  o«r  island  in  September.    The  real*  it  light-grey,  the  w.n«- 

K  .  the  br  e  lit  is  brown  with  an  orange  tince,  and  the  under  parts  brown 

••-.     The  wheate^  is  e^e«fned  as  a  Uble  d^hcacy  wfo^  tnc  iNrds  are  w*n-nov^hed.  Larre 

>  of  the  wheatear  are  car 

rrannirs  of  rocks  and  similar  situations.    Its  egf»  are  of  a  pate  blue  tint.    It  b 
abo  known   ,w   thr  /•  aAotr-rA.il. 


GAME 

CHAPTER    XXIV 

General  Observations  on  Game  and  the  Game  Laws 

The  Game  Laws,  by  which  term  is  meant  those  statutes  which  estab- 
lish a  peculiar  kind  of  property  in  wild  animals,  trace  their  origin  to 
two  principles  of  Common  Law  ;  the  first  is,  that  physical  possession 
is  the  underlying  idea  of  the  law  of  property  :  as  wild  animals  cannot, 
by  their  nature,  be  so  physically  possessed,  no  property  in  them  can 
be  recognized  :  they  are  res  nullius  ;  the  second  principle  or  maxim 
of  the  Common  Law  of  England  is  that  res  nullius,  that  is,  goods  in  which 
no  person  can  claim  any  property,  belong  by  royal  prerogative  to  the 
Sovereign.  Those  animals  accordingly,  those  ferae  naturae  which  come 
under  the  denomination  of  game,  are  in  our  laws  styled  His  or  Her 
Majesty's,  and  may,  therefore,  as  a  matter  of  course,  be  granted  by  the 
Sovereign  to  another  ;  in  consequence  of  this  royal  privilege  another 
may  prescribe  to  possess  the  same  rights  within  a  certain  precinct 
of  lordship.  Hence  arose  the  rights  of  lords  of  manors  and  others 
to  the  game  within  their  respective  liberties  ;  and  to  protect  this  right 
innumerable  Acts  of  Parliament  were  passed.  Many  of  these  inflicted 
penalties  of  extraordinary  severity  upon  persons  convicted  of  illegally 
killing  game  ;  but  they  are  now  all  abrogated,  and  the  principal 
statutes,  composing  what  are  known  as  the  Game  Laws,  may  be  enu- 
merated as  follows  :  9  Geo.  IV  c.  69,  referred  to  as  the  Night  Poaching 
Act  ;  i  and  2  William  IV  c.  32,  the  Game  Act  ;  n  and  12  Viet.  c.  29, 
the  Hares  Killing  Act  ;  and  23  and  24  Viet.  c.  90,  the  Game  Licences 
Act  ;  to  these  must  be  added  43  and  44  Viet.  c.  35,  the  Wild  Birds' 
Protection  Act.  It  is  the  Game  Act  of  William  IV  that  concedes  to 
any  one  the  right  to  kill  game  on  his  own  ground,  irrespective  of  quali- 
fications of  rank  or  property,  game  being  defined  in  this  statute,  as 
in  the  earlier  one  of  George  IV,  to  include  "  hares,  pheasants,  par- 
tridges, grouse,  heath  or  moor  game,  black  game,  and  bustards." 
This  Act,  however,  requires  all  persons  killing  or  pursuing  game  to 
take  out  a  yearly  certificate  ;  and  dealers  selling  it  must  also  obtain 
a  yearly  licence. 

726 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS    ON    GAME  727 

The  Object  of  the  Game  Laws  is  not,  however,  wholly  confined  to  the 
restraint  of  the  illegal  sportsman.  Even  qualified  and  privileged 
persons  must  not  kill  game  at  all  seasons.  During  the  day,  the  hours 
allowed  for  sporting  are  from  one  hour  before  sunrise  until  one  hour 
after  sunset  ;  and  the  time  of  killing  certain  species  is  also  restricted 
to  certain  seasons.  Thus  : — 

Partridges  may  be  shot  from  September  i   to  January  31. 

Pheasants  „  „  October  i   to  January  31. 

Black  Game       „  „  August  20  to  December  9. 

Grouse  ,.  „  August  12  to  December  9. 

Bustard  .,  „  September  i  to  February  28. 

All  other  wild  birds  „  August  i   to  February  28. 

It  is  the  Wild  Birds'  Protection  Act  of  1880,  referred  to  above  as  43 

and  44  Viet.  c.  35,  which  has  fixed  the  close  season  for  wild  birds  other 

than  those  specified  in  the  Game  Act  of  William  IV  ;  by  Sec.  3  of  this 

is  made  a  punishable  offence  to  kill  any  between  the  first  day  of 

i  and  the  first  day  of  August,  or  to  have  any  killed  birds  in  pos- 

:ie  fifteenth    day   of    March.     This  Act  was  amended 

c  51,  exempting  birds  received  from  abroad. 

included  larks  in  the  schedule  of  protected  birds.     The  sand-grouse 
'.led   at    any  time.     Ix>cal  Acts  are    also   occasionally 
passed  'he  close  season  in  the  interest  of  certain  si 

i  Act  passed   in    iS«;2  the  sale   of   hares   and   lev. K  ts  killed  in 
the  United     Km-dom    is    prohibited    from  March  to  July  inch; 
in   Ireland  the  close  season  is  between  April  i  and  August  12.     This 

!<>es  not  apply  to  foreign  h;i 

The  Exercise  or  Diversion  of  pursuing  Four-footed  Beasts  or  Game  is  called 
hunt  ing,  and  to  this  day  is  followed  in  the  field  and  forest  with  gun 
and  hound.  Birds  are  not  hunted  but  shot  in  the  air,  or  taken  with 

;id  other  devices,  which  is  termed  fowling  ;   or  they  are  pu 

and  taken  by  birds  of  prey,  which  is  termed  hawking,  a  form  of  sport 

fallen  almost  entirely  into  desuetude  in  England,  although  now  showing 

signs  of  bt  ed  in  some  parts  of  the  country.     M  been 

1  from  the  -es  in  the  pursuit  of  four-footed  beasts, 

such  as  deer,  boars  and  hares,  properly  termed  hunting.     It  was  the 

rudest  and  the  most  obvious  acquiring  human  support  before 

iHultur.il  art>  1.  i  1  in  any  degree  advanced.     It  is  an  employ- 

re»|iiiring  both  art  and  contrivance,  as  well  as  a  c, 

s    of  character,   combined   with    considerable    powers   of 

durance.     Without  these,  success  could  not  be  very  great  ; 

lie  occupation   is   u-ually  accompanied   with   rude  and 

turbulent  i  combined  with  such,  it  constitutes  what 

id  the  soil 

•    ,1    to   th  of   the   tamer 

and  11.  of   the  huntsman  is  proper- 


728  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

tionably  limited  ;  so  that  when  a  country  has  attained  to  a  high  state 
of  cultivation,  hunting  becomes  little  else  than  an  amusement  of  the 
wealthy.  In  the  case  of  fur-bearing  animals,  however,  it  is  somewhat 
different,  for  these  continue  to  supply  the  wants  of  civilization  with 
one  of  its  most  valuable  materials  of  commerce. 

The  Themes  which  form  the  Minstrelsy  of  the  Earliest  Ages  relate  either 
to  the  spoils  of  the  chase  or  to  the  dangers  of  the  battlefield.  The  sacred 
writings  introduce  us  to  Nimrod,  the  first  mighty  hunter  before  the 
Lord,  and  tell  us  that  Ishmael,  in  the  solitudes  of  Arabia,  became  a 
skilful  bowman  ;  and  that  David,  when  yet  young,  was  not  afraid  to 
join  in  combat  with  the  lion  or  the  bear.  Greek  mythology  teems 
with  hunting  exploits  ;  Hercules  overthrows  the  Nemaean  lion,  the 
Erymanthean  boar  and  the  hydra  of  Lerna  ;  Diana  descends  to  the 
earth  and  pursues  the  stag  ;  yEsculapius,  Nestor,  Theseus,  Ulysses 
and  Achilles  are  all  followers  of  the  chase.  Aristotle,  the  philosopher, 
advises  young  men  to  apply  themselves  early  to  it  ;  and  Plato  finds 
in  it  something  divine.  Horace  exalts  it  as  a  preparative  exercise 
for  the  path  of  glory,  and  several  of  the  heroes  of  Homer  are  its  ardent 
votaries.  The  Romans  followed  the  hunting  customs  of  the  Greeks, 
and  the  ancient  Britons  were  hunters  before  Julius  Caesar  invaded 
our  shores.  Although  the  ancient  Britons  followed  hunting,  how- 
ever, they  did  not  confine  themselves  solely  to  its  pursuit.  They 
bred  cattle  and  tilled  the  ground  and,  to  some  extent,  indicated  the 
rudimentary  state  of  a  pastoral  and  agricultural  life  ;  but,  in  every 
social  change  field  sports  maintained  their  place.  After  the  expulsion 
of  the  Danes,  and  during  the  brief  restoration  of  the  Saxon  monarchy, 
such  sports  were  still  followed  ;  even  Edward  the  Confessor,  who 
would  join  in  no  other  secular  amusement,  took  the  greatest  delight, 
says  William  of  Malmesbury,  "  to  follow  a  pack  of  swift  hounds  in 
pursuit  of  game,  and  to  cheer  them  with  his  voice."  Nor  was  Edward 
the  only  English  sovereign  who  delighted  in  the  pleasures  of  the  chase. 
William  the  Norman,  and  his  two  sons  who  succeeded  him,  were  pas- 
sionately fond  of  the  sport,  an4  greatly  circumscribed  the  liberties  of 
their  subjects  in  reference  to  the  killing  of  game.  The  privilege  of 
hunting  in  the  royal  forests  was  confined  to  the  king  and  his  favourites  ; 
and  in  order  that  these  might  be  made  more  extensive,  whole  villages 
were  depopulated,  places  of  worship  levelled  with  the  ground,  and 
every  means  adopted  that  might  give  a  sufficient  extension  of  space 
for  the  beasts  of  the  chase.  King  John  was  especially  devoted  to 
field  sports,  and  went  so  far  as  to  lay  an  interdict  upon  the  winged 
as  well  as  upon  the  four-footed  creation.  These  forest  laws  at  length 
became  so  tyrannical  and  intolerable  that  our  ancestors  became  almost 
as  anxious  for  their  reformation  as  they  were  for  the  relaxation 
of  the  feudal  system,  and  they  wrung  from  the  king  the  Charta 
de  Foresta  with  as  much  insistence  as  they  wrung  from  him  Magna 
Charta.  Edward  III  was  so  enamoured  of  the  exercise  that  even 


RECIPES  FOR  COOKING   GAME  729 

during  his  absence  at  the  wars  in  France  he  took  with  him  sixty  couples 
of  stag-hounds  and  as  many  hare-hounds,  and  every  day  amused 
himself  either  with  hunting  or  hawking.  Great  in  wisdom  as  the 
Scotch  Solomon,  James  VI  of  Scotland  and  I  of  England,  conceived 
himself  to  be,  he  was  much  addicted  to  the  amusements  of  hunting, 
hawking  and  shooting.  From  his  days  down  to  the  present,  field-sports 
have  continued  to  hold  their  high  reputation,  not  only  for  the  promo- 
tion of  health,  but  also  for  the  development  of  that  manliness  of 
character  which  enters  so  largely  into  the  composition  of  the  British 
race. 

The  late  Duke  of  Grafton  when  hunting  was,  on  one  occasion,  thrown 
into  a  ditch,     A  young  curate,  engaged  in  the  same  chase,  cried  out, 
"  Lie  still,  my  lord  !  "  leapt  over  him,  and  pursued  his  sport.     Such 
an  apparent  want  of  feeling  might  be  expected  to  have  been  resented 
by  the  duke  ;   but  not  so.     On  his  being  helped  up  by  his  attendant, 
he  said,  "  That  man  shall  have  the  first  good  living  that  falls  to  my 
disposal  ;    had  he  stopped  to  have  given  me  his  sympathy.  1 
would  have  given  him  anything."     Such  was  the  manly  sent: 
of  the  duke,  who  delighted  in  the  manifestation  of  a  spirit  as  a 

ort,  and  superior  to  the  baseness  of  an  assumed  sorrow. 
That  Hunting  has  in  many  Instances  been  carried  to  an  excess  i-  \\c  11  known. 
The  match  given  by  the  Prince  Esterhazy,  Regent  of  Hungary,  on  the 
signing    of  the  treaty   of  jxv  >t  the  least   « 

nstancc  upon  record.     On  that  occasion  there  were 
1 60  deer,  100  wild  boars,  300  hares  and  80  foxes  ;  this  was  the  achieve- 
ment of  one  day.     Enormous,  however,  as  this  slaughter  may  appear, 

inferior  to  that  made  by  the  contemporary  King  of  >> 
on  a  hunting  expedition.     That  sovereign  had  a  larp  of  ground 

at  his  command  and  a  longer  period  for  the  exercise  of  his  talents  ; 
consequent lv  his  sport,  if  it  can  be  so  called,  was  proportionably 

(1  during  his  journey  to  \ 

Bohemia  and  V  he  killed  5  bears,   1,820  boars,   1,950  deer, 

.    1 1 , 1 2 1   rabbits,    i  >  Igcrs, 

:   hares  and  354  foxes  ;    of  birds,  during  the  same  cxpe<: 
peasants  and  artridges.     Such  prod; 

i  can  hardly  be  called  sport  ;   it  resembles  more  the 

of  a  battlefield,  where  the  scientific  engines  of 
arc  brought  to  bear  upon  defenceless  savages. 
De«r  and  Hares  may  be  considered  to  be  the  only  four-footed  an 

mted  in  I'ntain  for  the  table  ;  and  even  these  are  not  followed 
with  the  same  ardour  as  they  were  in  bygone  days.     Still,  then 

:ic  sport  of  hunting  on  horseback  is  carried 

•   Hritain,  and  where  the  pleasir 

isc  are  so  well  understood  and  conducted  on  such  purely  sci< 

Beasts  of  •  ."is  now  consi 

>ort.     F<>  !y  superior  to  the  stag  ; 


730  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

for  the  real  sportsman  can  only  enjoy  that  chase  when  the  deer  is 
sought  for  and  found  like  other  game,  which  are  pursued  with  hounds. 
In  the  case  of  finding  an  outlying  fallow-deer,  which  is  unharboured 
in  this  manner,  great  sport  is  frequently  obtained,  but  this  is  now 
rarely  to  be  met  with  in  Britain.  Hare-hunting  is  followed  in  many 
parts  of  this  and  the  sister  island.  Although  it  is  less  dangerous  and 
exciting  than  fox-hunting,  it  has  great  charms  for  those  who  do  not 
care  for  the  hard  riding  which  the  other  requires. 

The  Art  of  taking  or  killing  Birds  is  called  "  fowling,"  and  is  either 
practised  as  an  amusement  by  persons  of  rank  or  property,  or  for  a 
livelihood  by  persons  who  use  nets  and  other  apparatus.  When 
practised  as  an  amusement,  it  principally  consists  in  killing  them  with 
a  light  firearm  called  a  "  fowling-piece,"  and  the  sport  is  secured  to 
those  who  pursue  it  by  the  game  laws.  The  other  means  by  which 
birds  are  taken  consists  in  imitating  their  voices,  or  leading  them,  by 
other  artifices,  into  situations  where  they  become  entrapped  by  nets, 
bird-lime  or  other  methods.  For  taking  large  numbers  of  birds,  the  pipe 
or  call  is  the  most  common  means  employed  ;  and  this  is  done  during 
the  months  of  September  and  October.  We  will  here  give  a  brief 
description  of  the  modus  operandi  pursued  in  this  sport.  A  thin  wood 
is  usually  the  spot  chosen,  and  a  cabin  is  erected  under  a  tree  at  a  little 
distance  from  the  others  ;  only  such  branches  are  left  on  the  tree  as 
are  necessary  for  the  placing  of  the  bird-lime,  with  which  they  are 
covered.  Around  the  cabin  are  placed  avenues  with  twisted  perches, 
also  covered  with  bird-lime.  Having  thus  prepared  all  that  is  neces- 
sary, the  bird-catcher  places  himself  in  the  cabin  and,  sunrise  and 
sunset,  imitates  the  cry  of  a  small  bird  calling  the  others  to  its  assist- 
ance. Supposing  that  the  cry  of  the  owl  is  imitated,  different  kinds 
of  birds  will  immediately  flock  together  at  the  cry  of  their  common 
enemy  when,  at  every  instant,  they  will  be  seen  falling  to  the  ground, 
their  wings  being  of  no  use  to  them,  from  their  having  come  in  contact 
with  the  bird-lime.  The  cries  of  those  which  are  thus  situated  now 
attract  others,  and  large  numbers  are  thus  taken  in  a  short  space  of 
time. 

It  is  only  during  the  night,  and  by  counterfeiting  the  squeak  of  a 
mouse,  that  owls  themselves  can  be  taken.  Larks  and  other  birds 
and  water-fowl  are  sometimes  taken  by  nets  ;  but  to  give  a  full 
description  of  the  manner  in  which  this  is  done  would  occupy  too 
much  space. 

Feathered  game  have  from  time  immemorial  gratified  the  palate 
of  man.  With  the  exception  of  birds  of  prey  and  some  other  species, 
the  Israelites  by  the  Mosaic  code  were  permitted  to  eat  them;  the 
Egyptians  made  offerings  to  their  priests  of  their  most  delicate  birds. 
The  ancient  Greeks  commenced  their  repast  with  little  roasted  birds  ; 
and  feathered  game,  amongst  the  Romans,  was  served  as  the  second 
course.  Indeed,  several  of  the  ancient  gourmets  of  the  "  imperial 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING    GAME  731 

city  "  were  so  fond  of  game  that  they  brought  themselves  to  ruin  by 
eating  flamingoes  and  pheasants.  "Some  modern  nations,  the  French 
amongst  others,"  says  Monsieur  Soyer,  "  formerly  ate  the  heron 
crane,  crow,  stork,  swan,  cormorant  and  bittern."  The  first  three 
especially  were  highly  esteemed  ;  and  Laillevant,  cook  of  Charles  VII, 
teaches  us  how  to  prepare  these  meagre,  tough  birds.  "  Belon  "  says 
that  in  spite  of  its  revolting  taste  when  unaccustomed  to  it,  the  bittern 
is,  however,  among  the  delicious  treats  of  the  French.  This  writer 
also  asserts  that  a  falcon  or  vulture,  either  roasted  or  boiled,  is  excel- 
lent eating,  and  that  if  one  of  these  birds  happened  to  kill  itself  in 
flying  after  game,  the  falconer  instantly  cooked  it.  Lebaut  calls  the 
heron"  a  royal  viand." 

The  Heron  was  hunted  by  the  Hawk,  and  the  sport  of  hawking  is  usually 
placed  at  the  head  of  those  amusements  that  can  only  be  practised 
in  the  country.  This  precedency  it  probably  obtained  from  its  being 
a  pastime  so  generally  followed  by  the  nobility,  not  in  Great  Britain 
only,  but  likewise  on  the  Continent.  In  former  times,  persons  of  high 
rank  rarely  appeared  in  public  without  their  dogs  and  their  hawks  ; 
the  hitter  they  carried  with  them  when  they  journeyed  from  one 
country  to  another,  and  sometimes  even  took  them  to  battle  with 
thrni,  and  would  not  part  with  them  when  taken  prisoners,  even  to 
obtain  their  own  liberty.  Such  birds  were  esteemed  as  the  ei 
of  nobility,  and  no  action  was  reckoned  more  dishonourable  in  a  man 

ink  than  that  of  giving  up  his  hawk. 

\\V  have  already  all;.  he  hunting  propensities  of  our  own 

Kdward  III,  and  we  may  also  allude  to  1  dly  devote  1  to 

hawking.       According    to    Froissart,     when    this    sovereign    invaded 

1  ranee,   he  took  with   him  thirty  falconers  on  horseback,   who  had 

charge  of  his  hawks,  and  every  day,  as  his  royal  fancy  inclined  him, 

he  cither  hunted,  or  went  to  the  river  for  the  mirpose  of  hawking. 

As  the  inevitable  Result  of  Social  Progress  is,  at  least,  to  limit,  i: 

entirely  to  suppress,  such  sports  as  we  have  been  treating  of,  much 

of  the  romance  of  the  country  life  has  passed  away.     This  is  m<ne 

.dly  the  car  with  falconry,  which  had  its  origin  about  the  middle 

of  the  fourth  century,  although  lately  attempts  have  been  made  with 

some  decree  of  success  to  institute  a  revival  of  the  "  gentle  art "  of  hawk- 

|  uliiis  Firmicus,  who  lived  about  that  time,  is,  so  far  as  we  can  find, 

the  first  Latin  author  who  speaks  of  falconers,  and  of  the  art  of  teaching 

•ecies  of  birds  to  fly  after  and  catch  others.     The  occupation  of 

functionaries  has  now  all  but  erased.     New  and  nobler  efforts 

/<•  the  aims  of  mankind  in  the  development  of  their  civili/a- 

nd  held  sports  have,  to  a  1  it,  been  superseded  by  other 

iful  and  invigorating,  but  is  certainly 
ial  and  humanizing. 

The  Wild  Birds,  of  speak,  a;  by  the 

:id  may  only  In-  killed  or  sold  during  some  months  of  the  year. 


732  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

In  a  country  so  thickly  populated  as  England  they  would  otherwise 
soon  be  exterminated.  It  is,  however,  more  as  a  matter  of  custom 
than  as  a  matter  of  fact,  that  we  speak  of  all  game  as  wild,  for  thou- 
sands of  birds  are  bred,  like  barn-door  fowls,  and  turned  loose  for  sport 
in  the  autumn. 

Season  for  Game. — Between  March  1 5  and  August  i  is  the  worst  time 
for  game,  for  since  1872  a  ^5  penalty  has  been  exacted  from  any  person 
who  shall  kill  or  sell  any  one  of  a  scheduled  list  of  birds,  of  which 
these  have  most  to  do  with  the  housekeeper — coot,  dotterel,  mallard, 
moorhen,  plover,  quail,  snipe,  woodcock,  swan,  teal,  widgeon,  wild 
duck,  wheatear.  They  may  be  sold,  however,  if  they  are  proved  to 
come  from  outside  the  limits  of  the  United  Kingdom  ;  and  a  good  deal 
of  foreign  game  is  sold  to  those  who  cannot  content  themselves  during 
those  months  without  a  game  course  to  dinner.  Partridges  and 
prairie  hens  come  to  us  from  America,  Russia  and  Norway,  and  some 
of  the  Colonies  supply  us  with  game  "  out  of  season  "  ;  there  is  also 
a  large  importation  of  quails  from  Egypt. 

To  Keep  Game. — All  water  birds  should  be  eaten  as  fresh  as  possible, 
because  their  flesh  is  oily  and  soon  becomes  rank.  Most  game  is  kept 
until  putrefaction  has  commenced,  it  being  thought  that  the  flavour 
is  thereby  developed.  The  time  that  it  may  be  kept  depends  upon 
(i )  the  taste  of  the  persons  who  are  to  eat  it  ;  (2)  the  weather  ;  (3)  the 
age  of  the  bird.  Taking  all  these  together,  it  is  impossible  to  lay  down 
any  precise  rules.  In  damp,  muggy  weather,  even  if  the  thermometer 
is  not  very  high,  game  will  keep  a  very  little  time,  but  in  clear,  windy 
weather,  even  if  it  is  not  very  cold,  it  will  keep  for  many  days.  It 
should  always  be  kept  in  the  fur  or  feathers,  and  should  not  be  drawn, 
and  should  be  hung  up  in  a  current  of  air.  It  may  sometimes  be 
necessary  to  pluck,  truss  and  half  cook  it,  in  which  state  it  will  keep 
a  day  or  two  longer. 

Old  birds  may  always  be  kept  longer  than  young  ones,  so  that  it  is 
well,  in  case  of  having  a  good  deal  of  game,  to  cook  the  old  on  one  day 
and  the  young  on  another.  Old  birds  also  need  longer  cooking. 

To  Choose  Game. — At  the  beginning  of  the  season  it  is  easy  to  distin- 
guish between  old  and  young,  but  towards  the  end  of  the  year  the 
distinctions  become  obliterated.  Besides  the  smoothness  of  the  claws 
and  the  small  lip  cleft  of  a  young  hare,  the  ear  is  tender  and  can  be 
easily  torn.  This  sign,  however,  is  not  infallible  if  the  ear  is  torn  by  the 
poulterer,  who,  by  long  practice,  can  always  tear  it  very  readily.  The 
short,  stumpy  neck  and  long  joints  of  a  young  rabbit  or  hare  are  a 
better  guide,  and  a  small  bony  knob  can  be  felt  near  the  foot  of  a 
leveret,  which  is  absent  in  a  full-grown  hare.  Partridges,  at  the 
beginning  of  the  season,  can  always  be  distinguished  by  the  shape  of 
the  long  feathers  in  the  wing  ;  in  an  old  bird  they  are  round  at  the 
end,  like  the  letter  U  ;  in  a  young  one  they  are  pointed,  like  a  V. 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS   ON    GAME 


733 


The  red-legged  French  partridges  are  rather  larger  and  cheaper  than 
the  English,  but  they  are  not  considered  so  good.  The  size  of  the 
spur,  the  smoothness  of  the  legs  and  the  tenderness  of  the  pinion  are 
the  best  guides  in  choosing  a  pheasant  ;  and,  indeed,  these  always  are 
the  points  to  observe  in  all  birds,  so  far  as  their  age  is  concerned. 

If  they  are  in  good  condition  the  breast  is  thick  and  hard  ;   Lf  lean, 
the  breast  feels  thin  and  soft.     The  feet  generally  tell  if  a  bird  is  fresh, 
should  be  supple  and  moist,  especially  in  water  birds,  but  they 
soon  become  stiff  and  dry  after  the  bird  is  dead. 

Game  is  less  fat  than  poultry  or  butcher's  meat,  and  is  generally 
thought  to  be  very  nourishing.  It  is  also  easy  of  digestion,  and  is 
valued  in  the  sick  room  as  well  as  on  the  table  of  the  epicure.  This 
does  not  apply  to  wild  fowl,  which  have  close,  firm,  and  rather  oily 

.  therefore,  unsuitable  for  delicate  persons, 
imber  of  small  birds  spoken  of  in  this  chapter  do  not,  s: 
;ng,  come  within  the  limits  of  either  game,  wild  fowl  or  poultry, 
.iten  as  articles  of  luxury  to  no  great  amount,  and  are  in- 
re  because  they  often  replace  game  on  the  dinner  table. 

Table  Showing  Relative  Value  of  Poultry  and  Game. 
Giving  the  actual  cost  of  the  eatable  portion  of  all,  after  deducting  Loss 

in  Weight  from  Cooking,  Bone,  Skin  and  Waste. 
':\  time  and  trouble  has  been   spent  in  preparing  the  following 
all    the   Poultry    and   Game  having    been    specially   cooked 
It  will  surprise  many  to  see  the  result,  which  shows  how 
ostly  most  of  the  small  birds  are,  reckoning  their  price  per  lb., 
ad  of  the  usual  way  at  so  much  each,  or  per  brace. 


Weight  when 

Loss  per 

Cost  per 

Name  of  i 

How 

•    ;.:.-,- 
e  •  *.  1 

\v..-\t 
...    , 

V             K.:..: 

Cooked,  with 
bone  and 

U     :.:.• 

deducted. 

I      :  v 

;  v  .,; 

«  •!* 

A'.-:  ..'•• 
OMtpti 
lb. 

1    mtS- 

,     ,.l      bOM 

•od 

Ib.  oz. 

lb.    oz. 

ox* 

s.        ,/. 

s.       J. 

Chicken   . 

- 

!•.    :•  i 
i;   Mtod 

2     4 
3    o 

!  J 

I 

X      0 

X      0 

.4     o 

2     4 

7 

0    IOJ 

,, 

10    6 

5     3 

8 

o    9 

o  14 

o  10 

4l 

a    o 

4     o 

2    12 

9 

X      0 

. 

o  14 

0      8 

7 

x    8 

a    6 

I     3 

1 

i     ^ 

4 

o    5 

I 

2      0 

O 

o    7 
3    o 

0    II 

6| 

7 

i     6 
o    8 

11 

o     3 

1 

a    6 

O 

10      0 

5  10 

7 

7i 

9     4 

9 

i     3 

i      i 

7i 

X      0 

o    8 

o       t 

1 

3    o 

Note.      I  «lumn  arc  those  of  p< 

md  game,  after  being  d:  for  cooking. 


734 


HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 


Table  Giving  Weight  of  Bone,  Skin   and   Waste  and  Loss  by  Cooking  in 
Poultry  and  Game. 


Name  of  Bird. 

Weight 
when 
Bought. 

Weight  of 
bone,  skin 
and  waste. 

Loss  by 
Cooking. 

Total  Loss 
by  Cooking, 
bone  and 
waste. 

Weight  of 
eatable 
matter. 

Duck 

lb.     oz. 

lb.     oz. 

lb.     oz. 
o     8 

lb.     OZ. 
I     8 

lb.    oz. 
i     8 

Fowl  ..... 

4O 

I       O 

O    12 

I    12 

2     4 

Goose  .  .  t  .  ,..;,, 
Grouse  ;^  ''•  '•'/'•''•  t'*i*J 

10     6 

2    15 
O      2 

2      4 
O      2 

5     3 

O       4. 

5     3 
o  10 

Hare        .      .      .    \  lo 
Partridge       •  •  ••,  --.fit  V<) 
Pheasant       .      .      /"   t; 

Pigeon.  '  i  i  >  '  i  •  *  »  •"  »;•'*•* 

4     o 
o  14 

2       6 

Oc 

o     9 
o     3l 

O    II 
O       I 

0    II 
0      2j 
0      8 
O       li 

i     4 
o     6 

o  i» 

2    12 
0      8 

O       2\ 

Rabbit  .  .  .  ,,-,  ,,., 
Turkey  
Woodcock  .  .  Y'  :  i.- 

3     o 

10       0 

o     8 

0    II 

3     o 

0      2| 

o     4 
i     6 
o     ii 

I       0 

4     6 
o     4 

2      0 

5  10 
o     4 

RECIPES    FOR    COOKING 
GAME 

CHAPTER    XXV 

1278.— BLACKBIRD  PIE.     (Fr.— Pate  de  Merle.) 

Ingredients. — Blackbirds,  rump  steak,   veal  forcemeat  (see  "  Force- 
ps, good  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  pa- 
Method. — Pick  and  draw  the  birds,  and  stuff  them  with  veal  force- 
Line  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  picdish  with  rather  thin  slices 
of  steak,  put  in  tin-  bn<l>cut  in  halves,  season  them  v. 

•crsescct;  rd-boiled  eggs      Halt  till  ii. 

.;ood  stock,  c  paste  (see  "Veal  and  Ham  Pie"),  and 

m  a  mod-  r  it.  ly  hot  oven.     Add  more  stock  before 
Time. — To  bake  the  pic,   from   i^  to   if  hours,  according  to  size. 
Average  Cost,  in  blackbirds  being  s<  M.     Seasonable  from 

r  to  the  end  of  ] 

I279.-BLACK    COCK,    FILLETS  OF,  A  LA  FINAN- 

CIERE.     (Fr.— Filets    de    Coq    de    Bruyere 
a  la  Finan^iere.) 

Ingredient*. — 2  black  cocks,  3  slices  of  bacon,  \  a  pint  of  brown  sauce 
(see  Sauces),  J  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  gl.i 
mushrooms,  i  medium-sized  onion,  i  small  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  salt  and 

Method.  -Cut  the  birds  into  neat  IV.  .«•  vegetables,  place 

in  a  sautc-pan  with  the  stock,  add  the  slices  of  bacon,  lav  th«- 

•  »p  of  them,  cover  closely  with  a  well-buttered  paper, 

•  >ok  gently  for  about  30  minutes.     Make  the  brown  sar 

•  •d,  add  to  it  the  mushrooms  (fresh  ones  must  be  j 

butter),  and  t  -eason  to  taste,  and  keep  hot  until 

d.     When   the  fillets  are  done,  arrange  them  on  a  hot 
sauce  over,  and  garni  ooms,  and,  if 

bacon  cut  into  dice  and  grouped  round  the  base. 

Time,      i  Average  Cost,  from  35.  6J.  to  45.  6d.  per 

brace.     Seasonable  from  the  middle  of  August  to  the  end  of  November. 

n* 


736  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1280.— BLACK    COCK,    GRILLED.         (Fr.— Coq    de 
Bruyere  Grille.) 

Ingredients. — i  black  cock,  a  little  warm  butter,  \  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  a  few  drops  of  anchovy  essence,  %  a  pint  of  brown  sauce 
(see  Sauces,  No.  233),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Split  the  bird  down  the  back,  cut  off  the  legs  at  the  first 
joint,  and  skewer  into  as  flat  a  shape  as  possible.  Brush  over  with 
warm  butter,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  grill  over  or  in  front 
of  a  clear  fire  from  25  to  30  minutes.  The  bird  should  be  turned 
frequently,  and  occasionally  brushed  over  with  butter  during  the 
process  of  cooking.  Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  add  to  it  the  lemon- 
juice  and  anchovy-essence,  season  to  taste,  strain  and  serve  in  a  sauce- 
boat.  Fried  potato  chips  or  straws  are  frequently  served  with  this 
dish. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost  35.  6d.t  o  45. 6d.  per  brace. 
Seasonable  from  the  middle  of  August  to  the  end  of  November. 

BLACK-COCK  (Fr.  coq  de  bruytre) — The  name  given  to  the  male  of  the  black  grouse  a  species 
of  Rasorial  birds  included  in  the  Tetraonidae  or  grouse  famly.  The  Black-cock  frequents  the 
moors  of  Scotland,  and  is  also  found  on  the  Alps  and  Apennines,  and  in  Norway  and  Russia.  The 
male,  about  the  size  of  the  common  hen,  weighs  some  4  lb.,  the  female  about  2  )b.  ;  the  eggs  of 
the  latter  are  of  yellowish-white  colour  spotted  with  brown.  The  flesh  of  the  Black-cock  is  highly- 
esteemed.  Large  numbers  of  these  birds  are  imported  from  Norway,  but  although  larger  in  size  than 
the  Scotch  bird,  their  flavour  is  not  so  delicate.  The  plumage  of  the  male  bird  is  a  fine  glossy 
black,  whence  its  name,  with  white  on  its  lower  wing-coverts.  The  four  outer  feathers  of  the  tail 
on  each  side  are  curved  outwards  at  their  tips,  thus  giving  to  the  tail  a  double-hooked  or  lyre-shaped 
appearance.  The  colour  of  the  females  is  brown,  and  the  tail  straight.  Both  sexes  are  feathered 
on  the  shanks.  Until  they  are  about  half-grown  the  males  are  scarcely  distinguishable  from  the 
females,  when  the  black  feathers  begin  to  appear  about  the  sides  and  breast.  The  food  of  the  Black- 
cock consists  of  the  tops  of  the  birch  and  heather  and  ripe  mountain  berries,  and  in  the  summer 
these  birds  frequently  descend  to  the  lower  lands  to  feed  upon  the  corn.  The  Black-cock  is  gre- 
garious, but  in  winter  the  sexes  keep  in  separate  flocks  and  pair  in  the  spring.  The  Black-cock  is 
also  known  locally  as  the  Black-game,  Heath-cock,  Moor-fowl,  or  Heath-poult. 

"  •*.'  j. :  •  i/l  t  *Jl   Ai_l   t\  fji\j\j+j    JTL\J£~'- 

1281.— BLACK    COCK,    ROASTED.        (Fr.— Coq    de 
Bruyere  Roti.) 

Ingredients. — Black  cock,  butter,  toast,  gravy,  bread  sauce,  No.iSo  (see 
Sauces  and  Gravies),  fried  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Let  the  birds  hang  for  a  few  days,  for  they  will  be  tough 
and  tasteless,  if  not  well  kept.  Pluck  and  draw  them,  and  wipe  the 
insides  and  outsides  with  a  damp  cloth,  as  washing  spoils  the 
flavour.  Cut  off  the  heads,  and  truss  as  a  roast  fowl,  cutting 
off  the  toes,  and  scalding  and  peeling  the  feet.  Baste  the  bird  well 
with  hot  butter,  and  roast  it  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  or  in  a  moderate 
oven,  from  45  to  60  minutes,  according  to  size,  basting  frequently 
with  butter  during  the  process.  Dish  orf  a  slice  of  buttered  toast,  and 
serve  the  gravy,  bread  sauce  and  breadcrumbs  separately. 

Time. — From  45  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  45. 6d.pcr  brace. 
Seasonable  from  the  middle  of  August  to  the  end  of  November. 

« 


GAME. 


:ock  Widgeon.      2.- Dumb-bird.      j.-  Blackbird.       v— Pintail       5.— French   Partridge. 
6.— Rabbil  /.-Guinea  Fowl  8 -Partridge  Q. -Lark  10.— Thrush 

ii      Black  Game. 


RECIPES    FOR    rooKlNV,    GAMK  737 

1282.— CAPERCAILZIE,    ROASTED.        (Fr.— Caper- 
cailzie Roti.) 

Ingredients. —  i  capercailzie,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  beefsteak,  i  or  2  slices  of  bacon, 
butter,  good  gravy,  bread  sauce   (see  Sauces  and  Gravies),  fried  br< 

rcress,  salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  and  truss  the  bird  in  the  same  way  as  a 
chicken.     Put  the  beefsteak  inside  the  bird  ;  it  greatly  improves  the 
>ur,  and  may  afterwards  be  used  in  the  preparation  of  some  cold 
meat  dish.     Cover  the  breast  with  slices  of  bacan,  and  roast  in  front 
clear  fire  or  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  i  hour,  basting  frequently, 
n  £  cooked  remove  the  bacon  from  the  breast,  dredge  lightly  with 
r,  and  baste  well  to  give  the  bird  a  nice  brown  appearance.      S< 

h  garnished  with  watercress,  previously  well  \  .ried 

and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  salad-oil,  and 
gravy,  bread  sauce  and  breadcrumbs  to  table  in  sauce-boa 

Time.     Alx.ut     i     hour.       Average     Cost,  43.   6d.      Seasonable    from 
August    20   to   December   20. 

THE  CAPERCALXIB  on  WOOD  GROUSC  (Fr.  cat*rcmlsU). — Thi»  bird,  known  also  as  the  Cock  of  the 
Wood,  was  once  abundant  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  but  became  f  or  s 

t ;  efforts  hare,  however,  been  made  to  re-introduce  it.  and  with  soccers.     The  ( 

;s  the  largest  of  the  European  gallinaceous  birds,  measuring  some  3  feet  in  length,  and  v. 

.!>.     The  female  is  about  one-third  the  sue  of  the  male,  and  differs  consid< 

feathers,  which  are  grey,  variegated  with  brownish-black,  and  striped  or  s; 

with  red  or  i  .  those  of  the  head  and  tail  being  of  a 

;s  grey,  the  breast  green,  the  wings  brown  spotted  with  black,  and  the  tail  feathers  black 
white  spots.     Thr  with  a  band  otaaked  scar '. 

i  lives  apart  from  the  female,  except  at  thr  pa:rii<g  season.     The  nest  of  the  caper- 
the  ground,  and  its  eggs  are  of  a  pale  reddish-brown  tint,  spotted  with  brown. 
The  capercalzie   is  found  principally  in   i  nous  regions,  and  is  common 

•   .   -.-     • 
into  England. 

1283.— FRENCH  GAME  PIE.      (Pate  de  Gibier.) 

Ingredients. — I  of  a  Ib.  of  le  .  <>f  a  IK  of  fresh  pork,  i  ! 

cock,  pheasant,  partridge,  or  other  game,  a  slice  of  bacon,  i  large  truffle 

linings,  a 
Method. — Chop  the  meat  (\  •  <>rk)  finely,  or  pass  it  thm- 

Aith  aromatic 
add  finely-chopped  truffle.     Cut   the  game  into  -  a 

the  prepared  forcemeat  ;  on  this  place  a  layer  of  pi< 
.  then  a  s  of  bacon,  and  more  forccme.  me 

L     Moisti  n  with  a  gill  of 
with  a  good  paste  crust,  decorate  and  c 
•:\  a  moderate  oven  for  about  i$  hours.     Serve  hot  or 
Time.— To  bake,  about  i$  hours.     Average  Cost,  43.  6d.  to  6s. 

1284.- GAME,  ANDOUILETTES  OF.     (/-V.-Andoui- 
lettes  de  Gibier.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  off  pcd  cooked   game,  2  ozs.  of  ; 

H   II 


738  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

chopped  cooked  ham,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  3 
finely-chopped  mushrooms,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  i  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  fried  parsley,  a  pig's  caul,  meat  glaze,  £  a  gill  of 
stock  (about),  i  egg,  tomato  or  piquante  sauce,  lemon-juice,  salt  and 
pepper,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Heat  £  an  oz.  of  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  fry  the  shallot 
slightly,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  when  lightly  browned  add  the  stock 
and  boil  well.  Put  in  the  game,  ham,  mushrooms,  parsley,  the  yolk 
of  the  egg,  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  stir  over  the  fire  until  well  mixed  and  thoroughly  hot, 
then  spread  on  a  plate  to  cool.  Brush  the  inside  of  8  or  9  oval  paper 
cases  with  butter,  and  fry  sufficient  parsley  to  form  little  beds  for  each 
case.  Mould  the  game  preparation  into  oval  or  cork-shaped  pieces  of 
suitable  size,  enclose  them  in  pieces  of  caul,  previously  washed  and 
well-dried,  and  seal  the  ends  with  a  little  white  of  egg.  Heat  the  re- 
maining i£  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  andouilettes  until 
nicely  browned,  then  brush  them  over  with  warm  meat  glaze,  and 
place  them  on  the  top  of  the  fried  parsley  in  the  paper  cases.  Arrange 
neatly  in  an  entree  dish,  and  serve  the  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — About  i  hour  altogether.  Average  Cost  is  9d.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons. 

1285.— GAME  CUTLETS.     (See  Pheasant  Cutlets.) 
1286.— GAME,  GARNISH  FOR. 

The  usual  garnish  for  roast  game  consists  of  watercress  and  crisply 
fried  potatoes,  the  latter  being  usually  stamped  out  into  small  thin 
slices,  or  cut  into  julienne  strips.  Mushrooms,  truffles  and  many  other 
ingredients  are  used  to  garnish  a  salmi  of  game.  See  "  Wild  Duck, 
Salmi  of." 

1287.— GAME,  HASHED.     (See  Wild  Duck,  Salmi  of.) 

1288.— GAME    IN    ASPIC    JELLY.     (Fr.— Gibier   en 
Aspic.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  cooked  game,  hard-boiled  eggs,  thin  strips  of  lean 
cooked  ham,  aspic  jelly. 

Method. — Rinse  a  plain  mould  with  cold  water,  cover  the  bottom  with 
a  thin  layer  of  liquid  aspic,  and,  when  set,  decorate  with  stamped-out 
pieces  of  ham  and  white  of  egg.  Fix  the  decorations  with  a  little  aspic, 
and  as  soon  as  it  has  stiffened,  add  small  pieces  of  game,  previously 
seasoned  and  freed  from  skin  and  bone.  Leave  plenty  of  space  to 
be  filled  with  jelly,  and  let  the  jelly  covering  one  layer  of  game  be- 
come quite  set  before  adding  another.  Let  the  mould  remain  on  ice, 
or  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted,  then  turn  out  and  serve. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   GAME  730 

1289.— GAME  PIE.    (Sec  French  Game  Pie  and  Raised 
Pie.) 

1290.— GAME,  PUREE  OF.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Gibier.) 

Ingredients.     Cold  game,  butter,  gravy,  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. —  Remove  the  bones,  and  simmer  them  in  a  little  water  for 
at  Ira^t  i  hour,  when  gravy  is  not  at  hand.     Chop  the  flesh  of  the  1 

mnd  it  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  moistening  gradually  with 
a  little  good  gravy  and  oiled  butter,  and  pass  through  a  wire  si- 
Season  to  taste,  stir  in  a  little  cream,  turn  the  preparation  into   well 
butt  m  ike  thoroughly  hot,  then  serve. 

1291.— GAME,  TO  KEEP  FROM  TAINTING. 

In  cold,  frosty  weather  game  may  be  hung  for  2  or  3  weeks  in  an 
ord;  !  T  without   lu><  <  >mim'  but   when   the  atmosphere 

care  should  be  taken  to  hang  it  in  a  w<  11 
irrably  where  there  is  a  current  of  air.  The 
rotection  from  flies,  but  it 

a  good  s;  of  pepjxir,  which  usually  serves  to  keep  away  these 

potts, 

•  r>  Gmovt*  (La****  Sctiocm*).  called  also  the  Moor-cock  and  Gor-eock.  to  plentiful  m  the 
o(  the   northern  counties  of    England,  and  also  in  Wale*  and  the  Highlands 
of  Scotland,  and  appears  to  be 

.Irked  and  speckled  with  black.    The  red  grouse  to  a  wild  and  timid  bird,  and  lives  in  flork* 

average  weight  to  about  19  ox. ;  that  of  the  female  to  somewhat  be*. 

te  flavour.    The  red  grouse  to  subject  to  the  epidemic  disease,  known  as 


1292.— GAME,  TO  REMOVE  TAINT  FROM. 

As  soon  as  there  is  the  least  evidence  of  taint,  remove  the  feathers 
and  draw  the  l>ird>.  ,md  v.a--h  them    ifl  \\ith   plenty  of  salt  and 

a  littl-  If  badly  tainted,  repeat  the  process  2  or  3  times, 

Dry  thoroughly  before  cooking. 

The  t.;  moved  by  putting  some  fresh 

i   in   muslin,  ic  crop  before  cooking, 

which  must  l>e  removed  before  the  birds  arc  served.     When  charcoal 
it  m. iv  easily  be  made  by  placing  wood  in  a  hot  oven 
until  it  is  burnt  through. 

1293.— GROUSE  PIE.    (Fr.— Pat6  de  Coq  de  Bruyere.^ 

Ingredient*. — 2  grouse,  I  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  £  pint  of   good   stock, 
eaky  bacon,  2  hard-boiled-eggs,  salt  and  pepper, 
iste. 

Method.     Cut  the  l.irds  into  nea  .md  remove  i  parts 

Savooi 
iall  thin 

« -s.     Line  the  bottom  of 


740         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

a  pie-dish  with  slices  of  meat,  cover  with  a  layer  of  grouse,  add  a  few 
strips  of  bacon  and  slices  of  egg,  and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Repeat  until  the  materials  are  used,  add  stock  to  |-  the  depth  of  the 
dish  and  cover  with  paste  (see  Veal  Pie,  No.  798).  The  pie  must  be  baked 
about  i£  hours  ;  for  the  first  \  hour  in  a  hot  oven  to  make  the  paste 
rise,  and  afterwards  in  a  lower  temperature  in  order  that  the  birds  and 
meat  may  be  sufficiently  cooked.  Meanwhile  simmer  the  necks  and 
any  trimmings  of  the  birds  there  may  be  in  the  remainder  of  the 
stock,  strain,  season  to  taste,  and  pour  it  into  the  pie  before  serving. 
When  about  f  baked  the  pie  should  be  brushed  over  with  yolk  of  egg. 
When  a  more  highly-seasoned  dish  is  desired,  a  flavouring  of  parsley, 
shallot  and  mushrooms,  all  finely-chopped  and  mixed  together,  should 
be  added  to  the  meat. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i|-  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  43.  6d.  to  53. 
Seasonable  from  August  12  to  December  10. 

GROUSE  (Fr.  coq'de  bruyere). — Under  this  general  term  are  included  several  species  of  game  birds 
called  respectively  black,  red,  wood  and  white  grouse.  They  all  form  the  type  of  a  large  family 
Tetraonidae,  which  includes  the  genus  Tetrao,  or  the  grouse.  The  characteristic  mark  of  the  grouse 
is  a  naked  band,  frequently  of  a  red  colour,  which  takes  the  place  of  an  eyebrow ;  the  nostrils  are 
feathered,  the  bill  is  short  and  broad,  the  wings  rounded,  the  tarsi  feathered  and  the  toes  long.  Grouse 
live  in  families  in  forests,  moors  and  barren  mountainous  regions,  feeding  on  the  buds  and  berries 
of  mountain  trees  and  the  tips  of  heather.  The  male  birds  are  polygamous.  Grouse  are  much 
esteemed  as  game  birds.  They  are  subject  to  "  grouse  disease,"  to  which  large  numbers  fall  victims 
at  particular  seasons.  It  is  of  an  epidemic  and  febrile  character,  and  in  some  cases  takes  the  form 
of  acute  inflammation  of  the  respiratory  mucous  membrane. 

1294.— GROUSE,   ROASTED.      (Fr.- Coq  de  Bruyere 
Roti.) 

Ingredients. — A  brace  of  grouse,  2  slices  of  toast,  butter,  good  brown 
gravy,  bread  sauce,  No.  180  (see  Gravies  and  Sauces),  fried  bread- 
crumbs, bacon. 

Method. — Let  the  birds  hang  in  a  cool  dry  place  for  3  or  4  days.  When 
ready  for  use,  pluck,  draw,  and  truss  them  in  the  same  manner  as  roast 
chicken.  Tie  over  each  breast  a  thin  slice  of  bacon,  and  roast  before 
a  clear  fire  from  30  to  35  minutes,  basting  frequently  with  butter. 
When  nearly  done  remove  the  bacon,  dredge  with  flour,  and  baste  well  to 
give  the  birds  a  nice  brown  appearance.  Toast  the  bread  lightly,  and 
when  the  birds  are  about  f  cooked,  put  it  into  the  dripping-tin  to  catch 
the  gravy  that  drops  from  them.  Dish  on  the  toast,  and  serve  the 
gravy,  bread  sauce  and  bread  crumbs  separately. 

Time. — From  40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  43.  the  brace. 
Seasonable  from  August  12  to  December  10. 

THE  RUFFLED  GROUSE. — This  bird  is  a  native  of  North  America,  and  is  so  named  from  the  curious 
velvet-black  tufts  of  feathers  on  its  shoulders.  The  plumage  of  the  back  is  a  rich  chestnut,  and  its 
tail  is  grey,  barred  with  black. 

THE  PINNATED  GROUSE,  also  called  the  Prairie  Hen,  frequents  the  open  desert  plains  of  North 
America.  The  male  has  two  winged- like  appendages  on  the  neck,  covering  two  loose  orange-coloured 
sacs  which  the  bird  can  inflate  at  pleasure.  Its  plumage  is  brown,  marked  with  black  and  white. 

THE  SAND  GROUSE,  (Pterocles  bicinctus),  is  chiefly  an  inhabitant  of  the  warm  sandy  regions  of 
Africa  and  Central  Asia.  It  is  longer  in  the  legs  than  the  ordinary  grouse,  and  the  tarsi  are  covered 
with  feathers,  the  toes  are  short  and  connected  at  the  base  by  a  membrane.  The  wings  and  tail 
are  pointed.  The  colour  of  the  sand  grouse  is  of  a  sandy  hue,  whence  its  name,  resembling  the 
sands  of  the  desert  where  it  dwells.  A  vast  flock  of  these  birds  in  1863  and  again  in  1888,  crossed 
the  North  Sea  and  visited  Europe,  settling  in  Britain  and  the  Faroe  Islands. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   GAME  741 

1295.— LANDRAIL,  OR  CORN-CRAKE,  ROASTED. 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  landrail,  butter,  fried  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Pluck  and  draw  the  birds,  wipe  them  inside  and  out  with  a 
damp  cloth,  and  truss  them  in  the  following  manner  :  Bring  the  head 
round  under  the  wing,  and  the  thighs  close  to  the  sides  ;  pass  a  skewer 
through  them  and  the  body,  and  keep  the  legs  straight.  Roast  the 
birds  before  a  clear  fire,  keep  them  well  basted,  and  serve  with  fried 
breadcrumbs,  with  a  tureen  of  brown  gravy.  If  preferred,  bread 
sauce  may  also  be  sent  to  table  with  them. 

Time. — 12  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  being  seldom  sold. 
Sufficient  for  a  dish.  Seasonable  from  August  12  to  the  middle  of 
Septeml  > 

\MDRAIL  OR  CORN-CRAKE  (Fr.  rait  de  ge*rt).—1\\i*  bird,Cr«  pratfnsis,  belongs  to  the  family 
RaUutae,  or  the  rails,  and  is  of  a  reddish- brown  colour,  marked  with  black  or  dark  trmvu.  Its 
bill  is  thick  and  shorter  than  its  head,  the  wings  are  short,  and  thr  bird  flies  in  a  heavy  embarrassed 

xhls  on  the  fround  it  can  ban!  <  a  second  time,  ami  it  i 

.md  depends  more  on  the  fleetness  of  •  ongth  of  its  wings.     Its  singular 

heard  when  the  grass  begins  to  sheltoi  : 

.t.     The  bird,  however,  i*  seldom  sern.  for  ••  skulks  among 

.-«t  portion  of  the  herbage,  and  runs  so  nimbly  through  it.  doubling  and  winding  ii 
direction  -ry  difficult  to  get  near  to  it.     Marshy  meadows  and  cor 

•ridrai!.  where  it  feeds  principally  on  worms,  slugs  and  insects,  of  wi: 

:rnbers.     The  landrail  b  a  migratory  bird,  and  makes  its  appearance  in  England  during 

I  May,  about  the  same  It  l.-aves  this 

:>    the    autumn,    a-  rrn  parts  <•!  11*  African  coasts  of  th« 

tnean  duriiiL  •  Thecorn-cr  n;  to  the 

country  is  also  secu  in  large  numbers  in  the  Isle  of  Angleva.     Its  fk-sh  is  much  esteemed. 

1 296. -LEVERET,  ROASTED.     (Fr.-Levraut  Roti.) 

Ingredients. —2  leverets,  butter,  flour. 

Method. — Leverets  should  be  trussed  in  the  same  manner  as  a  hare, 
but  they  do  not  require  Roast  them  before  a  clear  fin 

ted  all  the  time  they  are  cooking.     A  few  minutes 
dredge   them  lightly  with   flour. 

•he-  dish,  and  send  them  to  table  with  red  currant    j 
Time.     1  o  50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  43.     Seasonable 

to  August. 

1297.— LEVERET,  TO  DRESS.     (Sec  Leveret  Roasted.) 

1 298. -ORTOLANS,  ROASTED.   (Fr.— Ortolans  Rotis.) 

Ingredients. — Ortolans,  .on,  bay-leav. 

:,  brown   -r.ivv.  No.  164  (sfe   Gravies),  fried   broaden; 

Method. — Remove  the  head,  neck  and  crop,  but  let  the  trail  remain. 

but trr.  rover  the  breast  of 

t,  and  tic  over  them   thin 

:  steel  skewer,  running  it  through  the 

i  in  front  of  a  quick  tire  for  about  10 

minutes.     Baste  the  birds  almost  continuously  with  hot  butter,  and  put 


742         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  toast  under  them  to  catch  the  drippings  from  the  trail.  When 
cooked,  remove  the  skewers  and  strings,  but,  if  liked,  the  bacon  may 
remain  and  be  brushed  over  with  warm  glaze.  Serve  the  birds  on  the 
toast,  garnish  with  watercress,  and  send  the  gravy  and  breadcrumbs 
to  table  separately. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  each.  Seasonable  from 
March  to  May. 

1299.— PARTRIDGE,    BROILED.         (Fr.— Perdreaux 
Grilles.) 

Ingredients. — Partridges,  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste,  a  small  piece  of 
butter,  brown  gravy  or  mushroom  sauce. 

Method. — Pluck,  draw  and  cut  the  patridges  in  half,  and  wipe  the 
insides  thoroughly  with  a  damp  cloth.  Season  the  birds  with  salt  and 
cayenne,  broil  them  over  a  very  clear  fire,  and  dish  them  on  a  hot  dish  ; 
rub  a  smali  piece  of  butter  over  each  half,  and  send  them  to  table  with 
brown  gravy  or  mushroom  sauce. 

Time. — From  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  33.  6d.  a  brace. 
Seasonable  from  September  i  to  February  12. 

1300.— PARTRIDGE,    ESCALOPES    OF.        (Fr.— Es- 
calopes de  Perdreaux.) 

Ingredients. — i  partridge,  2  slices  of  bacon,  £  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce 
(see  Sauces),  £  a  pint  of  stock,  i  small  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  a 
bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf).  For  the  farce  or  stuffing: 
4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  cold  roast  partridge,  2  ozs.  of  raw  ham  or  bacon 
cut  into  narrow  strips,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  suet,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
i  raw  egg,  i  hard-boiled  egg,  a  good  pinch  each  of  nutmeg  and  powdered 
mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  bird  down  the  back,  and  remove  all  the  bones. 
Mix  the  minced  partridge,  suet,  breadcrumbs,  parsley,  herbs  and 
nutmeg  together,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  bind  with 
the  raw  egg.  Flatten  the  partridge  on  the  board,  season  the  in- 
side with  salt  and  pepper,  spread  on  half  the  farce,  on  the  top  of  which 
arrange  slices  of  egg  and  strips  of  bacon.  Season  well  with  salt  and 
pepper,  spread  on  the  remainder  of  the  farce,  draw  the  two  sides  to- 
gether, forming  it  as  much  like  a  roll  as  possible,  and  sew  securely  with 
strong  cotton.  Slice  the  vegetables,  and  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
the  2  slices  of  bacon  on  the  top.  Wrap  the  bird  in  buttered  paper,  lay 
it  on  the  top  of  the  bacon,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for  about 
i\  hours.  When  ready  to  serve,  remove  the  paper  and  string  and  cut 
the  roll  into  slices  about  \  an  inch  in  thickness.  Arrange  the  escalopes 
in  2  close  rows  on  a  potato  border,  and  strain  the  hot  sauce  over. 
Variety  may  be  introduced  by  dishing  the  escalopes  in  a  circle,  and 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    GAME  743 

• 

filling  the  centre  with  a  puree  of  spinach  or  mushrooms.       When  more 
convenient,  veal  may  be  used  for  the  farce  instead  of  cold  partridge. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  45. 
Seasonable  from  September  i  to  February  12. 

THE  PARTRIDGE  (Fr.  perdrix). — This  bird  is  found  in  nearly  all  the  temperate  countries  of 
Europe,  in  North  Africa  and  in  certain  parts  of  Asia,  and  is  abundant  as  a  game-bird  in  En\*l  mil. 
•-••d  lor  its  instinct  in  the  preservation  of  its  young.  An  eminent  writer  and  naturalist 
says  :  "  I  have  seen  it  often,  and  once  in  particular  I  saw  an  extraordinary  instance  of  an  old 
bird's  solicitude  to  save  its  brood.  As  I  was  hunting  with  a  small  pointer,  the  dog  ran  on  a  brood 
~:nall  partridges  ;  the  old  bird  cried,  fluttered,  and  ran  tumbling  along  just  before  the  dog's 
nose,  till  she  had  drawn  him  to  a  considerable  distance,  when  she  took  wing  and  Hew  further  <>1T, 
but  not  out  of  the  field.  On  this  the  dog  returned  to  me,  near  the  place  where  the  young  ones 
lay  concealed  in  the  grass,  which  the  old  bird  no  sooner  perceived  than  she  flew  back  to  us,  settled 
iust  before  the  dog's  nose  again,  and  by  rolling  and  tumbling  about  drew  off  his  attention  from 
her  young,  and  thus  preserved  her  brood  a  second  time.  I  have  also  seen  where  a  kite  has  been 
hovering  over  a  covey  of  young  partridges  the  old  birds  fly  up  to  the  bird  of  prey  screaming  and 
fighting  with  all  their  might,  to  preserve  their  brood."  Partridges  should  be  chosen  young  ;  if  old 
they  are  valueless.  The  young  birds  are  generally  known  by  their  yellow  legs  and  dark-coloured 
mils. 

1301.— PARTRIDGE,  FILLETS  OF,  FARCED. 

(Fr. — Filets  de  Perdreaux  Farcis.) 

Ingredients. — 2  partridges,  or  the  remains  of  cold  roast  birds,  £  a  Ib. 
of  liver  farce,  No.  398,  £  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  No.  244  (see 
Sauces),  i  07.  of  butter,  egg,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  puree  of 
spinach  or  mushrooms. 

Method. — Remove  the  fillets  intact  from  the  breast,  bone  the  legs 
and  wing,  form  into  a  good  shape,  fry  lightly  in  hot  butter,  and  press 
rn  2  dishes  until  cold.  Then  mask  one  side  with  the  liver  farce 
or  stuffing,  coat  both  sides  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and 
fry  until  nici-lv  browned  in  hot  butter  or  fat.  Arrange  in  a  circle  on 
a  border  of  potato,  strain  the  hot  Espagnole  sauce  over,  and  serve  the 
puree  of  spinach  or  mushroom  in  the  centre.  When  cold  birds  are  used, 
the  preliminary  frying  and  pressing  are  unnecessary,  the  farce  being 
spread  on  the  cold  cooked  fillets  and  completed  as  directed  above. 

Time. — About  2  \  hours  altogether,  when  fresh  birds  are  used.  Average 
Cost,  45.  Seasonable  from  September  i  to  February  12. 

1302.— PARTRIDGES,   HASHED.       (See  Wild   Duck, 
Salmi  of.) 

I3r>3._PARTRIDGE  PIE.       (Fr.— Pate  de  Perdreaux.) 

Ingredients. — 2  partridges,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  veal  cutlet,  2  or  3  slices  of 
streaky  bacon,  \  a  pint  of  good  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  hard-boiled 
eggs,  2  tablespoon  fills  of  coarsely-chopped  mushrooms,  preferably 
fresh  ones,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  \  of  a  teaspoonfui 
of  very  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  salt  and  pepper,  paste. 

Method. — Draw,  singe,  divide  the  birds  into  quarters  and  fry  them 
until  lightly  browned  in  hot  butter.  Cut  the  veal  into  small  thin  slices, 
place  them  in  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper, 


744  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

and  lay  the  partridges  on  the  top  interspersed  with  strips  of  bacon  and 
quarters  of  egg.  Sprinkle  on  the  mushrooms,  parsley  and  onion, 
season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  stock  to  £  the  depth  of  the  dish, 
and  cover  with  paste  (see  Veal  Pie,  No.  798).  The  pie  will  bake 
in  about  ij  hours  ;  it  should  first  be  put  into  a  hot  oven  to  make  the 
pastry  rise,  and  afterwards  baked  more  slowly.  Several  folds  of  well- 
greased  paper  laid  on  the  top  of  the  pie  will  prevent  the  crust  becoming 
too  brown,  and  a  glazed  appearance  may  be  given  to  it  by  brushing 
it  over  with  yolk  of  egg  when  f  baked.  The  remainder  of  the  stock 
should  be  warmed  and  poured  into  the  pie  before  serving. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  i|-  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  53.  to  6s.  Season- 
able from  September  i  to  February  12. 

1304.— PARTRIDGE,     ROASTED.          (Fr.—  Perdreau 
Roti.) 

Ingredients. — Partridge,  brown  gravy,  bread  sauce  (see  Gravies  and 
Sauces,  No  180),  fried  breadcrumbs,  slice  of  toast,  butter  for  basting, 
i  slice  of  bacon. 

Method. — Pluck,  draw,  and  truss  in  the  same  manner  as  a  roast 
chicken.  Cover  the  breast  with  a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  and  roast  before 
a  clear  fire  for  about  30  minutes,  basting  frequently  with  hot  butter. 
A  few  minutes  before  serving  remove  the  bacon,  dredge  lightly  with 
flour,  and  baste  well  to  give  the  bird  a  nice  pale  brown  appearance. 
Dish  on  the  toast,  and  serve  the  gravy,  breadcrumbs,  and  bread  sauce 
separately. 

Time. — To  roast,  about  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  43.  6d^ 
the  brace.  Seasonable  from  September  i  to  February  12. 

1305.— PHEASANT,  BOILED.       (Fr.— Faisan  Bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — i  pheasant,  i  pint  of  oyster  sauce,  No.  310  (see  Sauces) 
For  the  forcemeat  :  12  sauce  oysters,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs, 
i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  suet,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  nutmeg,  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste,  sufficient  raw  egg 
to  bind. 

Method. — Beard  the  oysters,  strain  the  liquor,  and  add  both  to  the 
dry  ingredients  with  as  much  of  the  egg  as  is  necessary  to  moisten  the 
whole.  Truss  the  bird  in  the  same  manner  as  a  boiled  fowl,  and  stuff 
the  breast  with  the  oyster  forcemeat.  Wrap  it  in  a  well-buttered 
paper,  put  it  into  boiling  stock  or  water,  to  which  must  be  added,  when 
it  re-boils,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  -|  a  small  turnip,  and  a  bouquet-garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf).  Simmer  gently  from  40  to  60  minutes, 
according  to  size,  then  remove  the  trussing  strings,  and  serve  on  a  hot 
dish  with  a  little  of  the  oyster  sauce  poured  over,  and  the  remainder 
sent  to  table  in  a  sauce-boat.  If  preferred,  a  puree  of  chestnuts  may 


ENTREES. 


i.  Chicken  Cutlets.  isserolc  Steak.          3.  Duck  with  Olives. 

43  BB« 


SAVORIES  AND  SUPPER  DISHES. 


i.  Savory  Croutes.         2.  Grilled  Oysters.         3.  Scotch  Haricot. 


44 


UH<  IPKS    FOR    COOKING    ('.AMI-  7.45 

d  for  the  oyster  forcemeat,  or  the  binl  m.i  -sed 

witliout  forcemeat,  and  served  \vith  oyster  or  «  ,ce. 

Time. — From  40  to  60  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  43.  each. 
Seasonable  from  October  i  to  February  12. 

•.  r  (Fr.  fatsan). — Accordir.  -  cal  legend, this  handsome  l»irtl  . 

.•Argonauts  on  I  • 

-or.  common  to  all  the  southern  parts  of  t! 

are  also  found  in  Southern  A  ip.m. 

The  i  re  wooded  i  Al- 

though it  has  lv  iraplished,  m-r  is  its  flesh  »  ; 

• 
- 1\-  :    "It  heasants  are  met  with,  pos*- 

keeping,  as  the  damp  of  thisclimat.  -.  as  long  as 

*.     The  hens  in  general  are  th< 

-ir  spun.     !  be  eaten  when  the  N. 

.nioiily  six  days  or  a  week  after  they  have  been  k 

good  •  l>  it  long  enough  ;  not  much  different  from  that  of  the  com- 

mon fowl  or 

1306. -PHEASANT,  BROILED.     ^/>.     Faisan    Grilte.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pheasant.  1>  enne,  sal  nushroom, 

it  able  game  sauce  (see  Sauces). 

Method.  \  be  cut  down  the  back,  and  flat 

tch-cock  • 

•  Ic  of  it  must  be  brushed  o\vr  with 

.  and  sea-  little  ca\  fore 

^ril  one  of  the  above-nanu-d  Baud  return  to  the 

nt  until 

irnin^  OO  . d   brushing  over 

u-inlv  with  warm  luittrr.  t  as  possi'i  -end  the 

to  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — To  grill,  from  25  to  31  >  Average  Cost,  35.  to.; 

each.     Seasonable  from  October  i  to  February  i  j. 

1307.— PHEASANT,  BROILED.      (Fr.—Faisan  Grille.) 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients.— i    pheasant.   !  ;£,   breadcrumbs,  salt,   ca\ 

pi<r  hroom.M  ..  ).2  5  5  ),orother  suitable  sauce(s^  Sau< 

Method.  -vd  into  n-  .It  and  . 

cs  until 
cold.  :  iimbs.  and  broil  0 

soon  as  t  bs  are  set,  brush  over  with  warm 

butter,  and  i  -he  process  of  Krillin^. 

Arr,!  l.il  form  on  a  hot  dish,  and  ic  sauce  r 

Time.  -To  ^rill,  from  15  to  20  minuter     Average  Cost,  33.  to  43.  6d. 
Seasonable  from  October  i  to  February  u. 


746  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

! 308.  —PHEASANT,   CROQUETTES   OF.       (Fr.— Cro- 
quettes de  Faisan.) 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  cooked  pheasant,  £  of 
a  pint  of  thick  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces),  2  eggs,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and 
papper. 

Method. — Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  add  the  minced  pheasant, 
the  yolk  of  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  briskly  over  the  fire  until 
the  mixture  thickens,  then  turn  on  to  a  plate.  When  cold,  form  into 
cork-shaped  croquettes,  coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until 
nicely  browned  in  hot  fat.  Drain  well,  pile  on  a  hot  dish  covered  with 
a  folded  serviette  or  dish-paper,  garnish  with  crisply-fried  parsley, 
and  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the 
pheasant.  Seasonable  from  October  i  to  February  12. 

1309.— PHEASANT,  CUTLETS  OF.   (Fr.— Cotelettes  de 
Faisan.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  pheasant,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  butter  or  frying- 
fat,  %  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  No.  244,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  birds  into  neat  joints,  and  remove  the  bones, 
keeping  the  flesh  as  intact  as  possible.  Season,  flatten,  and  trim  each 
piece  of  pheasant,  fold  the  skin  under,  and  form  them  into  a  good  shape. 
Coat  first  with  egg,  and  afterwards  with  breadcrumbs  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  fry  gently  in  hot  fat  or  butter  until  sufficiently  cooked 
and  well  browned,  then  drain  well.  Insert  a  small  bone  in  each  cutlet, 
put  on  a  frill,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  round. 

Time. — To  fry  the  cutlets,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  small 
pheasants  from  33.  to  45.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  from  October  to  February. 

THE  HEIGHT  OF  EXCELLENCE  IN  A  PHEASANT. — If  eaten  when  fresh  the  pheasant  has  no  distinct, 
flavour.  If,  however,  the  bird  be  kept  a  proper  length  of  time,  distinguishable  by  a  slight  smell 
and  change  of  colour,  it  becomes  a  highly-flavoured  dish,  occupying  a  middle  distance  in  delicacy 
between  chicken  and  venison.  The  exact  time  a  pheasant  should  be  "  hung  "  is  difficult  to  define, 
but  the  right  moment  a  pheasant  should  be  taken  down  is  instinctively  detected  by  a  good  cook. 

1310.— PHEASANT,  ROASTED.     (Fr.— Faisan  Roti.) 

Ingredients. — i  pheasant,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  beefsteak,  fried  breadcrumbs, 
bacon,  brown  gravy,  bread  sauce  (see  Gravies  and  Sauces),  watercress, 
salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pluck  and  draw  the  bird,  truss  in  the  same  way  as  a  roast 
chicken,  but  leave  the  head  on.  Put  the  beefsteak  inside  the  pheasant  ; 
the  beefsteak  is  intended  to  improve  the  flavour  of  the  bird  and  keep 
it  moist,  and  not  to  be  eaten  with  it,  but  it  may  afterwards  be  used 
in  the  preparation  of  some  cold  meat  dish.  Cover  the  breast  Math  thin 
slices  of  bacon,  or  lard  it  with  strips  of  fat  bacon,  and  roast  in  front 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    GAME  747 

of  a  clear  fire  or  in  a  moderate  oven  from  40  to  50  minutes,  accord- 
ing to  size  and  age.  Baste  frequently  with  butter,  and  when  the 
cooking  is  about  |  completed  remove  the  bacon,  dredge  the  breast 
lightly  with  flour,  and  baste  well  to  give  the  bird  a  nice  light  brown 
appearance.  Remove  the  trussing  strings,  serve  on  a  hot  dish, 
garnished  with  watercress  previously  well  washed,  dried  and  seasoned 
with  salt.  pepper,  and  salad-oil,  and  send  the  gravy,  bread  sauce,  and 

1  breadcrumbs  to  table  separately. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  35.  to  45.  6d.  each. 
Seasonable  from  October  i  to  Februar\ 

1311.— PHEASANT,    SALMIS    OF.       (Fr.— Salmis    dc 
Faisan    a    la    Modernc.) 

Ingredients,  -i   pheasant,  }    a  pint  of    brown    sauce,  No.   233    (see 
Sauces), 6or  8  slices  of  goose  liver,  6  or  8  slices  of  truffle.;:  or  3  ozs 
butter  2  finely-chopped  shallots,  $  of  a  tcaspoonful  of  finely-chopp  <1 
lemon-rind,   ^   of   a   teaspoonful    of    thyme,    i    bay-leaf,    i    glass   of 
rt  oi  MaffMte    wine,  salt   and   pep 

Method.  -Pluck,   draw   and    truss   the   bird    for  roasting.     Baste  it 
\\ell  with  hot  butter,  roast  in  a  quick  oven  lor  30  minutes,  basting 
quently,  then  strain  the  butter  used  for  basting  into  a  stewpan.  Di\ 
tlu-  bird  into  neat  joints,  put  the  breast,  wings  and  legs  aside,  and 
cut  tlu-  i  '1  pieces,  the  butter  in  the  stewpan, 

put  in  the  small  piece  ^ant,  add  the  lemon-rind,  shallots,  bay- 

)«-.it    and    tlu  w.-ll.    then    drain    oft    the    butter,    return     the 

s  of   ph  Heat  up  the    brown  sauce    in  a 

.id.l  to  it  the  ;son  to  taste,  and  simmer  for  lominu 

then  put  in  the  pheasant     Meanwhi:  .t  the  bur  hfl  slices 

of    li  !    drain    them   well.       Arrange   the   pheasant  in  a  silver  or 

earthenware  casserole,  or  stewpan,  interspersed  with  slices  of  liver  and 
truffle,  pour  the  sauce  over,  garnish  with  glazed  croutes  of  fried  bread 
and  serve  hot. 

Time. — Altogether  from  i|  to  ij  hours.     Average  Cost,  53.  to  6s.  6d. 
Seasonable  from  October  i  to  February  12. 

1312.— PLOVERS,  ROASTED.      (Fr.— Pluviers  Rotis.) 

Ingredients. — Plovers,  a  slice  of  toast  and  a  slice  of  bacon  for 
bird,  butter  for  basting,  brown  sauce.  No.  253  (see  Sauces),   I  glass  of 
port  wine  or  cl  atercress. 

Method.     Pluck  and  truss  the  birds,  but  do  not  draw  them.      I 
over  with  warm    butter,  tie    a    slice   of    thin    bacon  over  each  bp 
and  roast  in  0  20  minutes,  according  to 

tast  Is  on  the  spit  feet  :  put  slices  ol 

mi  to  re«  <>m  the  birds. 

Keep  them  well  basud  with  butter,  and  shortly  before  serving  remove 


748 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


the  bacon,  dredge  lightly  with  flour,  and  baste  well  to  give  the  breasts 
a  light  brown  appearance.  Make  the  brown  sauce  as  directed,  and  add 
to  it  the  wine  and  the  juice  of  i  lemon.  Serve  the  birds  on  the 
toast,  garnish  with  watercress  and  quarters  of  lemon,  and  send  the 
sauce  to  table  in  a  sauce-boat.  Oiled  butter,  made  acid  with  lemon- 
juice,  frequently  accompanies  these  birds  instead  of  the  brown  sauce. 

Time. — From  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33.  the  brace. 
Seasonable  from  the  beginning  of  October  to  the  end  of  January. 

THE  PLOVER  (Fr.  pluvier). — The  name  applied  to  various  birds  belonging  to  the  Grattatores,  or 
wading  birds,  found  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  Plover  is  gregarious,  and  usually  frequents  the 
marshes  and  the  muddy  borders  of  rivers,  where  it  seeks  its  food,  consisting  of  aquatic  insects  and 
worms.  Some  species,  however,  live  on  dry  sandy  shores,  and  others  breed  on  the  mountains. 
The  plover  has  a  short  straight,  slender  and  compressed  bill ;  its  legs  are  long  and  slender,  with 
three  toes  in  front,connected  by  a  short  web.  It  makes  its  nest  on  the  ground.  There  are  various 
species  of  Plover  ;  that  best  known  is  the  Golden  Plover,  called  also  the  Yellow  or  Whistling, 
Green  Plover  (Charadrius  pluvialis).  It  is  about  i  foot  in  length,  of  a  greyish-black  colour,  and 
variegated  with  yellow  spots.  The  Grey  Plover  is  somewhat  larger  than  the  golden  species, 
is  smaller  than  the  woodcock,  to  which  it  is  inferior  in  delicacy  of  flavour.  The  Dotterel  (C.  mori- 
nellus)  frequents  the  coasts,  and  is  dark  brown  and  is  marked  with  white  patches ;  its  eggs  re- 
semble those  of  the  golden  plover.  Previous  to  dressing,  plovers  are  kept  until  they  have  the  flavour 
of  game.  Their  flesh  is  esteemed  by  many,  but  it  is  not  universally  relished. 

1313.— PLOVERS,  TO  DRESS.   (See  Plovers  Roasted.) 
1314.— POTTED  GAME. 

Ingredients. — Cooked  game  of  any  kind  ;  to  each  Ib.  allow  2  or  3  ozs. 
of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Free  the  game  from  skin  and  bone,  chop  it  finely,  or  pass 
it  2  or  3  times  through  a  mincing  machine.  Pound  in  the  mortar  until 
smooth,  moistening  gradually  with  strong  game  gravy  or  stock,  or, 
failing  this,  clarified  butter.  Season  well  with  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne, 
then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Press  into  small  pots,  and  cover  with 
clarified  butter. 

1315.— POTTED  PARTRIDGE.     (See  Potted  Game.) 

1 3 1 6.  —  PTARMIGANS,      ROASTED.        (Fr .  —  Pertrix 
blanche  R8ties.) 

Ingredients. — Ptarmigans,  butter  for  basting,  a  slice  of  bacon  for  each 
bird,  fried  breadcrumbs,  good  brown  gravy,  bread  sauce  (see  Gravies 
and  Sauces). 

Method. — Let  the  birds  hang  in  a  cool  dry  place  for  3  or  4  days.  When 
ready  for  use,  pluck,  draw  and  truss  them  in  the  same  manner  as  roast 
grouse.  Tie  over  each  breast  a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  and  roast  before  a 
clear  fire  from  30  to  35  minutes,  basting  very  frequently  with  butter. 
Wnen  about  £  cooked  remove  the  bacon,  dredge  lightly  with  flour, 
and  baste  well  to  give  the  birds  a  nice  appearance.  Dish  on 
the  toast,  which  should  be  previously  put  into  the  dripping-tin  to 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   GAME  749 

cat  drops  from  the  birds,  and  serve  the  bread  s. 

.ind  gravy  separ^ 

Time.-  From    ;<>  to  ;v;   minutes.      Average  Cost,  from  25.  to  5*.  the 
l>r.ixe.     Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

THE  PTARMIGAN,  o*  WHITE  GRotisK  (Fr.  ptarmigan).—  The  pt.irmiR.in  (l^agopus  vutc : 

:.-*t  of  our  !•:•  1-y  having  its  l<?i;-  r-i.r.d.     It 

•  s  its  name  from  t  sage  mottled  with  black,  chan 

ttie  mountainous  districts  at  Scotland  and  Norway,  aiv 

also  found  in  Greenland.     In  weight  it  averages  from  8  or.  to  10  ox.     When  young  the  ptat 
and  differs  but  little  in  flavour  from  the  common  grouse.     In  winter  th< 
Tinman  flies  in  flocks  and  feeds  on  the  wild  vegetation  of  the  hill*,  which  imparts  to  its  flesh  a 

but  not  an  altogether  unpalatable  taste.     It  is  dark-coloured,  and  somewhat  resenibl. 
hare  in  flavour,  and  is  much  relished  and  sought  after  by  some  sportsmen. 

1317.— QUAILS,  ROASTED.       (Fr.— Cailles  Roties.) 

Ingredients.—  •<>  of  f.it   l 

.us  there  are  birds,  good  bn 
r  for  bas: 
Method. —  Thick  th-  •  move  t!  rop.  bin 

traaL      l  r  \\itli  \\.um 

but 

tho  k-.if.      Atl 

body  of  each  bii  :  t  from   i 

'i  hot  butter.    \Vlt.-n  tt.okt  •' 

:  .iiid  \  i:  • d  or  no' 

•  uld  be  brushed  ov  irm 

sluuild  i  put 

it  drops  from  the  1 
with  watercress,  and  send  ;  ucc- 

Time.  u  to  1 5  minutes.     Afcrage  Cost,  is.  each.     Seasonable 

i  Sept  en:' 

I3I8.-QUAILS,  STUFFED.     (Fr.-Cailles  Farcies.) 

Ingredients. — <  No.  398  (sec  Forcem 

e   No.    2$5    (  os),     finely-chopped    trufil. 

Min,  2  ozs.  of  but  of  egg,  pork  caul,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Bon  spared  farce. 

•  a  good  shape,  and  one  with  a  band  ot  b-.i 

t   the  bu'  i,  baste  the  birds  :em 

n  from  15  to  20  minutes,  b 

while,  wash  the  c.iul  in  salt  and  wat  '  «'u(  it  into  pieces 

to  contain  half  a  bird.     Split  the  birds  in  h.ilvs  with  a 

hot  .  enfold  each  halt  in  a  piece  of  caul,  brush  over  with  white 

IK!  sprin! 
truffl.-. 
them  with  a  buttered  paper  T«>  minutes. 


750         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Dish  in  a  close  circle  on  a  potato  border,  alternating  the  colours,  fill 
the  centre  with  asparagus  points,  peas,  flageolets,  or  puree  of  spinach, 
and  pour  the  hot  Madeira  sauce  round.  If  preferred,  the  birds,  instead 
of  being  sprinkled  with  ham  and  truffle,  may  be  simply  wrapped  in  caul, 
cooked  for  10  minutes,  then  brushed  over  with  warm  glaze,  and  served 
in  paper  cases. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour  to  cook.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  is.  each.  Season- 
abla,  from  September  to  February. 

THE  QUAIL  (Fr.  caille). — The  quail  is  found  in  almost  all  the  countries  of  Europe,  and  is  widely 
distributed  in  North  Africa,  India,  China  and  North  America.  It  is  a  bird  of  passage,  and  im- 
mense flocks  traverse  the  Mediterranean  Sea  from  Europe  to  Africa  in  the  autumn,  returning  again 
in  the  spring,  frequently  alighting  in  their  passage  on  many  of  the  islands  of  the  Archipelago  which 
they  almost  cover  with  their  vast  numbers,  and  are  taken  in  great  quantities.  The  quail  arrives 
in  Britain  in  May,  and  migrates  southwards  in  October.  The  male  arrives  first,  and  appears  to  cry 
for  its  mate  by  a  peculiar  whistling  note.  The  colour  of  the  plumage  is  brown  on  the  upper  parts 
of  the  body,  with  lighter  and  darker  markings.  The  under  parts  are  of  a  yellowish  shade.  Its 
wings  are  rounded,  the  tail  is  short,  and  the  tarsi  are  destitute  of  spurs.  Its  average  length  is  8 
inches.  Its  eggs  are  of  a  light-greenish  tint.  It  is  a  very  pugnacious  bird,  and  in  classical 
times  "  quail  fights  "  were  an  amusement  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans.  Among  various  species  are 
the  Coromandel  Quail,  the  Virginian  or  American  Quail,  a  larger  bird  than  the  European  Quail,  and 
the  handsome  little  Chinese  Quail,  some  4  inches  in  length.  The  flesh  of  the  quail  is  white  and  tender 
and  delicate  in  flavour. 

1319.— RAISED  PIE.     (Fr.— Pate  de  Gibier.) 

Ingredients. — Game  of  any  kind,  equal  quantities  of  finely  chopped 
veal  and  pork,  veal  forcemeat,  paste  (see  Pork  Pie,  No.  1116),  coarsely 
chopped  truffle,  stock  that  will  jelly  when  cold  (preferably  game 
stock),  egg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  veal  and  ham  together,  season  liberally  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  add  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  truffle.  Divide 
the  birds  into  neat  joints,  and  remove  all  bones  except  those  which  are 
deeply  imbedded  in  the  flesh  and  difficult  to  detach.  Make  and  mould 
the  paste  as  described  in  the  recipe  for  Pork  Pie,  and  line  the  bottom 
and  sides  with  veal  forcemeat.  Put  in  the  prepared  game,  season  each 
layer  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  intersperse  small  pieces  of  the  meat 
farce,  taking  care  to  leave  spaces  to  be  afterwards  filled  with  stock. 
Pile  the  game  high  in  the  centre,  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  veal  farce, 
put  on  the  cover,  then  follow  the  directions  given  for  preparing,  baking 
and  finishing  Pork  Pie. 

NOTE. — See  French  Game  Pie,  Grouse  Pie,  and  Partridge  Pie. 

1320.— RAGOUT  OF  WILD  DUCK. 

Follow  the  directions  given  for  Wild  Duck,  Salmi  of ,  No.  1340,  when 
utilising  cold  remains;  otherwise  first  roast  the  duck  for  about  20 
minutes  (see  Wild  Duck,  Roasted,  No.  1339),  cut  it  into  neat  joints, 
and  afterwards  proceed  as  directed. 

1321.— REEVES,  TO  DRESS.  (See  Larks,  Roasted, 
No.  1245,  Larks,  Stuffed  and  Roasted,  No. 
1246,  and  Wheatears  To  Dress,  No.  1277.) 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING   GAME  751 

1322.— RISSOLETTES  OF  GAME  A  L'HORLY. 

Ingredients. —For  the  mixture  :  6  tablcspoonfuls  of  any  kind  of  game, 
£  of  a  pint  of  thick  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces),  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper. 
For  the  batter  :  i  :>oonfuls  of  flour,  I  tablespoonful  of  milk, 

$  a  teaspoonful  of  salad-oil,  salt  to  taste. 

Method.     Heat  the  sauce  in  a  small  stewpan,  put  in  the  minced  game, 

egg  and  seasoning,  stir  briskly  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens, 

turn  on  to  a  plate  to  cool.     Mix  the  flour,  milk,  salt,  salad-oil 

and  yolk  of  c£g  smoothly  together,  put  it  aside  for  about  £  an  hour, 

and  to  use  lightly  add  the  white  of  egg  previously  whipped 

to  a  stiff  frot'i.     1  ne  preparation  into  pieces  about  the  size 

of  a  large  walnut,  dip  them  into  the  batter,  and  fry  in  a  deep  pan  of 

hot  fat  until  nicely  bnnMicd.     Drain  \\  in  .1  pyramid.il  form 

on  a  folded  s  '-per,  garnish  with  crisply-fried  parsley, 

tot. 

Time.— From  i|  to  1}  hours.     Aftragt  Cost,  6d.,  <. -\dusi\t •  ut  the  game. 

1323.  -ROOK  PIE. 

Ingredients. — 6  young  rooks,  |  of  a  Ib.  of  rump  steak,  |  of  a  Ib.  of  1 
\  a  pint  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  paste. 

Method.  -Skin  the  birds  without  ph.  !>y  cutting  th. 

lis,  and  dr.iu  vcr  the  body  and  head.     Draw  the 

I.IK!  usual  manner,  remove  the  necks  and  backs,  and  split  the 

birds  down  the  1  \rrange  them  in  a  deep  pie-dish,  co 

breast  with   thin  strips  of  steak,  season   well   with  salt  and  pep; 

rsperse  small  pieces  of  butter,  and  add  as  much  stock  as  will  J 
till  the  dish.     Cover  with  paste  (st  i'ie),  and  bake  from   ij  to 

2  hours,  for  J   hour  in  a  hot  oven  to  make  the  paste  rise, 

and  afterwards  more  Jowly  to  allow  the  birds  to  become  thoroughly 
cooked.     When  the  pie  is  about  J  baked,  brush  it  over  with  yolk  of 
egg  to  glaze  the  crust,  and,  before  serving,  pour  in,  through  the  hole 
ic  top,  t!  of  the  stock. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  ij  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  as  they 
are  seldom  sold.  Su  file  lent  for  5  or  6  persons. 


THE  ROOKS  are  wild  birds,  found  abundantly  in  most  parts  of  Britain  and  Ireland.    They  live 

• 

«mg  bird*  are  eaten,  generally  being  shot  almost  before  they  take  to  the  wing.  The 
backbones  and  adjoining  flesh  is  always  removed,  as  these  parts  have  a  strong,  bitter  taste,  which 
soon  contaminate*  the  rest  of  the  flesh. 


1 324.- RUFFS,  TO  DRESS.  (Sec  Larks,   Roasted, 

No.   1245,    Larks,   Stuffed   and   Roasted,   No. 
1246,  ami  Wheatears,  To  Dress,  No.  1277. 


752  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

1325.— SNIPE,  ROASTED.      (Fr.— Becassines  Roties.) 

Ingredients. — Snipe,  toast,  bacon,  good  gravy  (see  Gravies),  water- 
cress, butter  for  basting. 

Method. — These  birds,  like  the  ortolan,  plover  and  woodcock,  are 
dressed  without  being  drawn.  They  are  trussed  in  the  same  way  as 
other  birds  for  roasting,  but  the  head  is  skinned  and  left  on,  the  long 
beak  of  the  bird  being  passed  through  the  legs  and  body  instead  of  a 
skewer.  Brush  them  over  with  warm  butter,  tie  a  thin  slice  of  fat  bacon 
over  each  breast,  and  hang  them  on  the  spit  feet  downwards.  Put 
the  toast  under  them  to  catch  the  drippings  from  the  trail,  baste  fre- 
quently with  butter,  and  roast  them  for  about  15  minutes,  or  less  if 
preferred  very  much  underdone.  Dish  on  the  toast,  garnish  with  water- 
cress, and  serve  the  gravy  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33.  6d.  the  brace. 
Seasonable  from  November  to  February. 

THE  SNIPE  (Fr.  becassine)  is  a  migratory  bird,  generally  distributed  over  Europe,  and  met  with 
abundantly  in  most  parts  of  Britain,  where  it  frequents  damp  and  marshy  grounds,  feeding  on  insects, 
small  molluscs,  and  worms,  which  form  its  principal  food.  In  the  Hebrides  and  Orkneys  snipes  are 
plentiful,  and  are  fattest  in  frosty  weather.  The  snipe,  which  is  a  grallatore  or  wading  bird  is 
characterized  by  its  long  slender  bill,  and  the  peculiar  bleating  which  it  utters  in  the  summer,  changing 
its  note  entirely  during  the  breeding  season  When  the  female  is  sitting  upon  her  nest  the  male  bird 
will  keep  on  the  wing  for  hours,  mounting  like  a  lark,  and  uttering  a  shrill  piping  noise  ;  then,  with  a 
bleating  sound,  resembling  that  of  a  goat,  it  will  descend  with  great  velocity  to  the  nest,  from  which 
it  will  not  wander  far.  The  eggs  of  the  snipe,  four  in  number,  are  olive-white,  spotted  with  brown. 
The  Jack  snipe,  very  similar  to  the  common  snipe  in  appearance,  and  the  smallest  of  the  British 
snipes,  only  visits  Britain  in  winter.  The  Great  or  Solitary  Snipe  is  less  common  than  the  ordinary 
variety,  which  it  resembles  in  colour,  but  is  of  a  darker  brown.  When  flying  it  spreads  its  tail  like 
a  fan.  All  the  snipes  are  active  cautious  birds,  and  when  their  nests  are  menaced  will  affect  lameness 
to  divert  attention. 

1326.— TEAL,  ROASTED.      (Fr.—  Sarcelle  Rotie.) 

Ingredients. — Teal,  butter  for  basting,  good  brown  gravy,  Bigarade 
sauce  No.  226  (see  Gravies  and  Sauces),  watercress,  lemons. 

Method. — Pluck,  draw,  and  truss  the  teal  for  roasting.  Brush  them 
over  with  hot  butter,  and  roast  before  a  clear  fire  from  25  to  30  minutes, 
basting  frequently.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  watercress 
and  quarters  of  lemon,  and  send  the  sauce  to  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  2s.  each.  Season- 
able from  October  to  March  15  ;  in  better  condition  after  the  frost  has 
set  in. 

1327.— THRUSH,  TO  ROAST.       (Fr.— Grive  Rotie.) 

Ingredients. — Thrush,  butter  for  basting,  gravy,  watercress,  croutes. 

Method. — After  trussing  the  birds,  cover  each  breast  with  well-buttered 
paper,  instead  of  bacon,  which  would  impair  the  delicate  flavour  of  the 
birds.  Place  them  side  by  side  on  a  skewer,  baste  well  with  hot  butter 
and  roast  before  a  clear  fire  for  about  10  minutes,  basting  almost 
continuously  with  butter.  Serve  on  croutes,  garnish  with  water- 
cress, and  send  the  gravy  to  table  separately. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    GAME  753 

Time. — To  roast  the  birds,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  uncertain , 
thrush  being  seldom  sold.  Allow  2  to  each  person. 

1328.— VENISON,  BROILED  POLISH  FASHION. 

(Fr.—  Escalopes  de  Venaison  a  la  Polonaise.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  10  slices,  £  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  from  a  leg  of  venison, 
i£  ozs.  of  clarified  butter,  -J-  a  pint  of  \Ylouto  or  Allemamle  sauce,  -I 
a  gill  of  wine  vinegar,  i  tablespuonful  of  meat  glaze  or  meat  extract, 
1 2  juniper  !>«•:  ;>er. 

Method. — Crush  the  juniper  berries,  simmer  them  for  10  or  15  minutes 
in  tli.-  vinegar,  then  add  the  meat  glaze  and  sauce,  and  cook  gently 
for  15  minutes.  When  ready  to  use,  strain,  return  to  the  stewpan. 
season  to  •!  >tir  in  \  an  <>z.  of  butter.  Flatten  the  slices 

with  a  cutlet-bat,  and  trim  neatly.  Heat  the  remainder  of 
the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  and  fr.  >t  venison  quickly  until 

nicely  browned  on  both  sides.  Arrange  them  neatly  in  a  hot  entree 
dish,  pour  over  the  prepared  sauce  an<! 

Time.  —  To  fry,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  ^d.  to  is.  6d.  per 
Ib.  Seasonable  frcm  September  to  J  '-.it  may  be  l><  .u-ht  from  June. 

H  ER  (Fr.  daim).— These  elegant  and  active  animals,  included  under  the  name  of  d«- 
stitute  t  .;enus  Ccrvus,  being  represented  by  the  stag  or  red-deer. 

.  hed,  according  to  the  age  of  the  deer,  and  are  shed 
of  the  reindeer,  the  male  alone  is  furm'sl 

ire  used  to  designate 

t  he  first  year  is  called  a  calf  or  kind-calf  ;  the  second  year 
ued  a  knobbfr  ;  the  third  year  a  ftroi  year  a  sluggard,  the  fifth  year  a  slag, 

•  •ar  a  hart.      1 
1  year  a  hin.i 

.  in  thr  l.itti-:  !>y  permanent 

• 
moose,  etc.     The  flesh  of  d.  y  esteemed. 

1329.— VENISON,  CHOPS  AND  STEAKS  OF. 

Venison  chops  are  cut  from  the  loin,  and  a  thick  sliee  from  the  leg 
is  usually  served  as  a  steak.  They  should  be  grilled  over  a  clear  fire, 

and  s.-rved  with  a  sauce  made  of  equal  quantities  of  oiled  butt>  ; 
wine,  and  dissolved  red-currant  jelly.      See    Venison,   Broiled    i 
ion,  and  Venison  Cutlets. 

This  is  the  name  given  to  the  flesh  of  some  kinds  of  deer,  and  is  esteemed  very  deli* 
ies  of  deer  are  found  in  warm  as  well  as  cold  climates,  and  are  in  several 
•  >  man.     This  is  especially  the  case  with  the  Laplander,  whose  reindeer  cou- 
>  a  large  proportion  of  his  wealth.     There — 

The  reindeer  uuharness'd  in  freedom  can  play, 
.   o'er  Odin's  steep  precipice  stray, 

\i-olf  to  the  forest  recesses  may  fly, 
And  howl  to  the  moon  as  she  glides  through  the  sky. 

In  Lapland  the  reindeer  is  \  ••  horse,  the  cow,  the  goat  and  the  sheep.     From  its 

milk  i-  produced  cheese;  :  •;•*  bowstrings  and  thre.i 

:  its  bones  spoons;  and  its  flesh  furnishes  food.     I 

>t  over-abstemious  monks,  represented  by  1  U.dttr 

'.  at  a  later  period  it  was  a  deer-stealing  adv.  :;  <>ve  the  "  in- 

i.ikespeare  to  London,  to  become  a  common  player,  and  the  greatest  dram.i- 
i^land  we  have  the  stag,  an  animal  of  great  beauty,  and  much 

Hurope,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  onizitullv  introduced  into 

the  rough 

'itre,   and   th^  worxfc 
El  aiul  HI  some 


754  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

I33o._ VENISON    CUTLETS.          (Fr.—  Cotelettes    de 
Venaison.) 

Ingredients. — Best  end  of  the  neck  of  venison,  butter,  fresh  mush- 
rooms, to  each  Ib.  allow  £  of  a  pint  of  good  brown  stock  or  gravy  (see 
Stocks  and  Gravies),  and  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Skin  and  trim  the  mushrooms,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  the  butter,  gravy,  and  plenty  of  seasoning,  and  stew  gently  from 
35  to  40  minutes,  or  until  tender.  Divide  the  venison  into  cutlets 
about  %  inch  in  thickness,  trim  the  bones  at  the  end,  but  let  the  rest  of 
the  fat  remain  ;  flatten  and  pare  the  cutlets.  Brush  over  with  warm 
butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  grill  over  or  in  front  of  a 
clear  fire  from  20  to  25  minutes,  turning  occasionally,  and  brushing 
over  frequently  with  hot  butter.  Place  a  small  pat  of  fresh  butter  on 
the  top  of  each  cutlet,  serve  as  hot  as  possible,  and  send  the  stewed 
mushrooms  to  table  separately. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
from  September  to  January. 

THE  ROEBUCK  (Fr.  chevreuil). — The  common  roe  or  roebuck  (Cervus  capreolus)  is  smaller  in  size 
than  the  fallow  deer,  and  its  antlers  are  smaller,  with  only  three  short  branches.  It  is  brown  in 
colour,  varied  with  grey  and  red  tints.  The  roebuck  is  very  graceful  in  its  movements,  and  is  a 
denizen  of  wooded  and  mountainous  districts. 

1331.— VENISON,    HASHED.          (Fr.—  Capilotade   d3 
Venaison.) 

Ingredients. — Remains  of  roast  venison,  and  to  each  Ib.  allow  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  i^  ozs.  of  flour,  i  glass  of  port  wine,  i  tablespoonful  of  red 
currant  jelly. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  neat  slices,  break  up  the  bones,  put  them 
with  the  trimmings  of  the  meat,  and  any  venison  gravy  there  may  be, 
into  a  stewpan,  cover  with  cold  water,  and  simmer  gently  for  i  hour. 
When  water  alone  is  used,  a  small  onion  and  a  bunch  of  herbs  should  be 
added.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  fry  until 
brown.  Add  the  strained  stock,  stir  until  boiling,  then  put  in  the  meat, 
wine,  jelly,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  cover  the  stewpan  closely,  and  let 
it  stand  at  the  side  of  the  stove  for  about  20  minutes  for  the  meat 
to  become  thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  flavour  of  the  sauce,  which 
must  not,  however,  be  allowed  to  boil.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible, 
garnished  with  croutons  of  fried  or  toasted  bread,  and  hand  red  currant 
jelly  separately. 

Time. — About  £  hour,  after  the  stock  is  made.  Average  Cost,  8d. 
to  iod.,  exclusive  of  the  venison.  Seasonable  from  September  to 
January,  but  may  be  bought  from  June. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    GAME  755 

THE  STAG  (Fr.  cerf). — The  male  of  the  red-deer  is  called  the  stag  or  hart,  and  the  female  a  hind. 
The  stag  is  much  larger  than  the  fallow-deer,  and  his  age  is  indicated  by  his  horns,  which  are  round 
.  \  of  palmated,  like  those  deer.     During  the  first  year  the  stag  has  no  horns,  but 

a  short  and  1  with  a  thin  hairy  skin.     The  following  year  the  horns  ?.re 

single  and  straight,  and  in  the  third  year  they  have  two  antlers,  three  the  fourth,  four  the  fifth,  and 
five  th« 

This  number  is  not  always  constant,  f»r  they  are  sometimes  more  and  frequently  are  less.  After 
the  sixth  year  the  antlers  do  not  in-.  •  .ise  ;  and  though  they  may  amount  in  number 

to  six  or  seven  0:1  each  side,  the  animal's  age  is  estimated  rather  by  the  size  of  the  antlers  and 
the  thickness  of  the  branch  which  sustains  them  than  by  their  variety.  These  horns  are  shed 
every  year,  u-".  illy  in  the  spring,  and  new  ones  supply  their  place.  When  the  old  horns  have  fallen 
off  the  new  ones  do  not  make  their  appearance  immediately,  but  the  bones  of  the  skull  are  covered 
with  a  transparent  periosteum,  or  membrane  which  enwraps  the  bones  of  animals.  After  a  short  time 
the  skin  begins  to  swell  and  to  form  a  sort  of  tumour.  From  this  presently  rising  from  the  head 
the  antlers  shoot  forth  from  side  to  side  ;  and  in  a  short  time,  if  th.  :i»n. 

the  entire  horns  are  completed.     The  solidity  of  the  extremities,  ho\\  }>erfect  until  the 

horns  have  arrived  at  their  full  growth.     Old  stags  usually  shed  their  horns  first,  which  generally 

the  end  of  1  the  beginning  of  March.     Those  between  five  and  six 

:  s  about  the  middle  or  latter  end  of  March  ;  those  still  younger  in  April,  and  the 

foun.;  •)«  middle  or  latter  <  ITiese  rules,  which  are  applicable  generally. 

for  a  severe  winter  will  retard  the  shedding  of  the  horns.     The  hind  has  no 

:itted  for  being  hunted  than  the  stag.     She  takes  the  utmost  carr  of  h.-r  fawns 
-cretes  them  in  the  most    obscure  thickets,  lest  they  should  fall  a  prey  to  their    mn: 

If,  the  dog.  the  eagle  and  the  falcon.  When  the  hind  has  voung  she  defends  her 
offspring  with  the  most  resolute  bravery.  If  pursued  by  the  hunter  she  will  fly  before  the  hounds 
for  h.t  .  then  return  to  her  fawn,  whose  life  she  has  thus  preserved  at  the  hazard  of  her 

1 332.  "VENISON,   HAUNCH  OF,   ROASTED. 

(Fr.— Quartier  de  Chevreuil  Roti.) 

Ingredients.  — A  haunch  of  venison,  flour,  brown  sauce  or  brown  gravy 
(see  Sauce  and  Gravies),  red  currant  jelly. 

Method.     Tin.-  haunch  is  the  prime  part  of  venison,  and  its  excellence 
•ly  on  th<  proportions  of  fat  and  lean.     An  abund- 

ance of  clear  creamy-white  fat  of  close  may  be  generally  ac- 

cepted as  an  indication  of  the  good  quality  of  the  meat.     The  I1 
of  the  buck  is  more  hiuh!  <1  than  that  of  the  doo.     Venison, 

like  mutton,  improves  <l-rd  by  the  condition 

of  the  hoof,  which  in  an  old  animal  is  d  :  and  rugged,  whereas 

that  of  a  vomit;  one  has  a  small  and  smooth  cleft.  In  cold  weather 
venison  should  be  allowed  to  hang  for  about  14  days  in  a  cool, 
place,  but  it  must  be  carefully  examined  every  day.  The  meat  round 
the  haunch  bone  first  becomes  tainted;  it  is  therefore  advisable  to  run 
a  small  sharp  knife  into  the  flesh  ;  on  being  withdrawn,  it  has  an  un- 
pl-Msant  smell,  the  effected  parts  must  at  once  be  washed  with  warm 
milk  and  water,  dried  thoroughly,  and  covered  thickly  with  pround 

nust,  however,  be  washed  off  before  cook 
little  of  Ixj  sprinkled  on  the  venison  in  the 

and  th  iped  dry  every  day,  decomposition  may  be 

con  retarded.     \\  !v  for  use,  saw  off  the  knuckle-bone, 

rub  well  all  over  with  clarified  fat  or  dripping,  and  enfold  in  a  well- 

r.     Make  a  Mm  pa- to  of  common  flour  and  water,  put  it 

joint,  co  uTeased  paper,  and  tie  secure  Iv 

witi.  D  front  of  ue  or  in  a  moderate  oven  1 

3  to  according  to  size  and  1  Within  \  an  hour 

of  serving  remove  the  paper  and  j>  ly  with  flour,  and 


756  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

baste  well  with  hot  butter  until  the  joint  acquires  a  good  brown  colour. 
Serve  as  hot  as  possible,  as  the  fat  quickly  cools  and  hardens,  and  send 
the  brown  sauce  or  gravy  and  the  red  currant  jelly  to  table  separately. 
The  best  end  of  the  neck  of  venison,  boned  and  rolled,  makes  an  ex- 
cellent dish,  but  other  parts  are  not  often  roasted,  the  neck  and  shoulder 
being  considered  better  adapted  for  stews,  pies,  and  pasties. 

Average  Cost. — is.  6d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable — buck  venison  from  June 
to  the  end  of  September  ;  doe  venison  from  October  to  January. 

THE  REINDEER  (Fr.  renne). — This  species  of  deer  inhabits  the  northern  and  Arctic  regions,  and  is 
thicker  in  the  body  and  its  legs  are  proportionately  shorter  than  those  of  the  red-deer.  It  is  distin- 
guished from  other  species  by  the  circumstance  that  the  female  as  well  as  the  male  possesses  horns  ; 
those  of  the  latter  are,  however,  much  larger  and  stronger.  In  colour  the  reindeer  is  of  a  dusky- 
brown  hue,  with  greyish  under  parts  ;  these  change  to  lighter  tints  in  the  winter.  The  reindeer 
is  very  hardy,  keen  of  sight  and  hearing,  swift  of  foot,  its  pace  averaging  nine  or  ten  miles  an  hour, 
at  which  speed  it  can  draw  with  ease  a  sledge  attached  to  it  with  a  burden  of  some  200  Ibs.  Its 
strength  and  hardiness  render  the  reindeer  invaluable  to  the  Laplander,  to  whom  it  is  the  substitute 
for  the  horse,  sheep  and  goat.  From  its  milk  cheese  is  provided  ;  from  its  skin  clothing  ;  from  its 
tendons  bowstrings  and  thread  ;  from  its  horns  glue  ;  from  its  bones  various  articles  of  use,  and 
its  flesh  furnishes  food.  Reindeer  moss,  a  lichen  which  grows  extensively  in  the  sterile  tracts  of 
northern  and  arctic  Europe  and  America,  provides  the  reindeer  with  its  chief  supply  of  food  during 
the  winter  season.  A  variety  of  the  reindeer,  the  Caribou,  inhabits  northern  An- erica,  and  is 
hunted  for  the  sake  of  its  skin  and  flesh,  the  layer  of  fat,  called  depouille,  on  the  back  of  the  male, 
being  esteemed  a  special  deHcacy. 

1333.— VENISON  IN  A  CHAFING-DISH. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  venison,  the  juice  of  3  small  onions,  i  egg,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  flour,  i  teaspoonf  ul  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  nutmeg,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Pound  the  peeled,  sliced  and  blanched  onions  in  a  mortar 
until  reduced  to  a  pulp,  place  this  in  muslin,  and  press  out  the  juice 
with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon.  Remove  all  skin,  fat  and  gristle  from 
the  meat,  chop  it  finely,  and  mix  with  it  the  onion-juice,  parsley,  and 
a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Stir  in  the  egg,  season  to  taste,  form  into  flat  cakes 
the  size  and  shape  of  a  fillet,  and  coat  them  lightly  with  flour.  Heat 
the  butter  in  a  chafing-dish,  put  in  the  steaks,  and  fry  gently  for  10 
minutes,  turning  them  once.  Place  the  cover  on  the  chafing-dish, 
continue  to  cook  gently  for  5  minutes  longer,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  steaks,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2S. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  June  to  January. 

THE  FALLOW  DEER  (Fr.  davn). — This  is  the  domestic  or  park-deer,  is  allied  to  the  stag,  but  is 
smaller  in  size  and  differs  in  the  shape  of  its  horns.  The  colour  of  the  fallow-deer  is  reddish-brown 
with  white  spots,  and  white  inside  the  limbs  and  beneath  the  tail.  Fallow  deer  are  chiefly  kept 
in  parks,  and  roam  in  herds  under  the  control  of  a  "  master  deer."  The  male  is  termed  a  buck,  the 
female  a  doe,  and  the  young  deer  fawns.  They  are  readily  tamed  and  become  very  docile.  Their 
flesh  furnishes  excellent  venison,  and  a  soft  leather  is  manufactured  from  their  skins.  From  the 
shavings  of  their  horns  ammonia  is  prepared,  whence  the  popular  name  of  "  hartshorn." 

1334.— VENISON,  NECK  OF,  TO  ROAST. 

Method. — Let  the  neck  remain  attached  to  the  shoulder  until  required 
for  use,  so  as  to  preserve  the  appearance  of  both  joints.  In  preparing, 
follow  directions  for  Neck  of  Mutton,To  Roast,No.  1054;  and  cook  accord- 
ing to  instructions  given  in  Venison,  Haunch  of,  Roasted,  No.  1332. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   GAME  757 

1335.— VENISON,   SHOULDER  OF.         (See  Venison, 
Haunch  of,  Roasted.    Also  Venison,  Stewed.) 


1 336.— VENISON    STEWED.  (Fr.— Ragout    de 

Venaison.) 

Ingredients. — A  shoulder  of  venison  well  hung  and  boned,  a  few  thin 
of  mutton  fat  (preferably  off  the  best  end  of  a  neck),  £  of  a  pint 
t,  i  J  pint  of  stock,  i  a  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  whole  allspice,  salt  and  pepper,  red-currant  jolly. 

Method. — Pour  the  wine  over  the  slices  of  mutton  fat,  and  M  them 

i  for  2  or  3  hours.     Flat-  venison  with  a  ci: 

rolling-pin,  season  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  with   the 
iutum  fat.      Roll  up  lightl  i  cuivly  with  tape,  put  it 

into  a  >ck  and  the  bones 

from  the  i  M   the  wine  in  which   the    mutton  fat  was  s< 

-corns  and  al1  ml  simn 

i   31  houi  th   the  p  1  send 

it  jrlly  to  t.il.lr  m 

Time. — To  cook   t  ,on,   from   3   to   3$  hours.     Average  Cost, 

11  >.     Sufficient  t«r    K>   <>r  i  Seasonable   : 

;.c  bought  from  Ji: 


•.  cry  IOHR  time, 

nlroductKMi  l«c  a  question  wbv 

- 

-.  to  adorn  the  hills,  dales,  ferny  brakes  an<: 
region*  oi  the  whole  world  ruight  be  made  to  yield  uadpiMDs  of  the  iioblc  rumiuuit,  valu.il  i 

•.  c  made 
t  of  breeding  r  parks,  an 

•    will  mdu- 
England's  rural  scenery  a  new  element  of  beauty,  ami  to  English  tables  a  fresh  .  choicest 

tical  •elation  of  this  intcrcstip*  question  wn  ma<!  ue  Park 

1  :i  that  occasion  a  :  ••  species 

whose  native  home  is  the  South  A  Uio.  The  noble  beast  was 

thus  described  :  "  He  weigh-  n  he  dropped;  huge  as  a  s  bone  not  half 

active  as  a  deer,  stately  in  all  hi*  paces,  perfect  in  form,  bright  in  col-  ^t  dew- 


-irons-sculptured  horn.    This  eland  in  his  lifetime  strode  majestic  on  the  hill-side,  where 

he  dwelt  with  his  mates  and  their  progeay.all  English  born,  like  himself."     Three  pain  of  the  same 

species  of  deer  were  left  to  roam  at  large  on  the  picturesque  slopes  throughout  the  day,  and  to  return 

to  their  home  at  pleasure.    Here,  during  winter,  they  are  assisted  with  roots  and  hay,  but  in  summer 

isturc  of  the  park  ;  so  that,  in  point  of  expense,  they  cost  no  more  than 

::iapproached  in  the  qu.ility  of  his  rtc^' 

t  grows  to  an  enormous  sice,  and  lays  on  fat  wiUt  as  great  facility  as  a 
true  short-horn,  wh;  superior.     T  >ly  fitir. 

i—braised  brisket,  roast. 

•teaks,  filet  saute,  boiled  aitchbo;  these   putoU   has   demonstrated  that  a  new 

t>  been  added  to  the  pr.^lni  ts  of  the  English  park. 


750  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

I337-—  VENISON,     POTTED.  (Fr.— Terrine    de 

Venaison.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  venison,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  i  glass  of  port  wine, 
salt  and  pepper,  clarified  butter. 

Method. — Put  the  venison  into  a  stewing -jar  with  a  close-fitting  lid, 
add  the  wine  and  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Cover  the  top  of  the  jar  with  2  or  3  thicknesses  of  buttered  paper, 
press  the  lid  down  tightly,  and  cook  in  a  moderately  cool  oven  for  2 
hours.  Drain  well,  chop  finely,  pound  in  a  mortar  until  smooth, 
moistening  the  preparation  gradually  with  gravy,  and  pass  it  through 
a  wire  sieve.  Season  to  taste,  press  into  email  pots,  and  cover  with 
clarified  butter. 

Time. — To  cook  the  venison,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  lod. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  8  pots.  Seasonable  from  June  to  February. 

1338.—  WIDGEONS,  ROASTED.     (Fr.  Sarcelle  Rotie.) 

Ingredients. — Widgeons,  butter  for  basting,  watercress,  lemons.  For 
the  sauce  :  £  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces),  i  glass  of  port  wine 
or  claret,  the  juice  of  i  lemon  and  i  orange,  salt  and  pepper,  castor 
sugar. 

Method. — Truss  the  birds  for  roasting.  Baste  well  with  hot  butter, 
and  roast  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  for  about  20  minutes,  or  bake  in 
a  moderately  hot  oven  for  the  same  length  of  time.  Keep  them 
well  basted  with  hot  butter,  and  shortly  before  serving  sprinkle 
lightly  with  flour,  to  give  the  birds  a  nice  appearance.  Meanwhile 
make  the  brown  sauce  as  directed,  add  to  it  the  wine,  orange  and 
lemon-juices,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  salt,  and  pepper  to  taste,  simmer  for 
15  minutes,  then  strain,  skim,  and  serve  with  the  birds  on  a  hot  dish, 
garnished  with  watercress  and  quarters  of  lemon,  and  hand  the  sauce 
separately. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  6d.  each.  Season- 
able from  August  i  to  March  15. 

I339-— WILD   DUCK,  ROASTED.     (Fr.— Canard  Sau- 
vage  Roti.) 

Ingredients. — i  wild  duck,  \  a  pint  of  good  gravy,  \  a  pint  of  either 
Bigarade  or  port  wine  sauce  (see  Gravies  and  Sauces),  flour,  butter 
for  basting,  lemons. 

Method. — Truss  the  bird  for  roasting,  and  if  the  fishy  taste  is  dis- 
liked, cover  a  deep  baking-tin  to  the  depth  of  \  an  inch  with  boiling 
water,  a$d  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  put  in  the  bird,  and  bake  it  ior 
10  minutes,  basting  very  frequently  with  the  salt  and  water.  Then 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    GAME  759 

dry,    sprinkle    lightly    with    flour,    baste   well   with   hot   butter,   and 
either  roast   in   front  of  a  clear  fire   for  about   20  minutes,  or  bake 
he  same  length  of  time  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  hasting  frequently 
with  hot  butter.    These  birds  should  <  served  rather  underdone, 

otherwise  they  lose  their  flavour.  An  orange  salad  frequently  accom- 
panies this  dish.  To  make  this  salad  the  oranges  should  be  cut  across 
into  thin  slices,  the  pips,  every  particle  of  skin  and  pith  removed,  and 
the  fruit  arranged  in  layers  in  a  dish,  each  layer  being  sprinkled  with 
a  little  castor  sugar,  salad-oil  and,  if  liked,  a  little  brandy. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from  35.  each.     Seasonable 
from  August   I   to  March   15. 


1340.— WILD    DUCK,    SALMI    OF.         (Fr.— Canards 
Sauvages  en  Salmis.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  cold  roast  wild  ducks,  i  pint  of  stock 
made  from  the  bones  and   trimmings  of  game,  i  glass  of  port  wine  or 

\  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful  each  of  orai 
juice  .in. I  lemon-juuv  :un  strips  of  fresh  orange-rind,  I  sin. ill 

onion,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  thyme,  i  hay-leaf,  salt  and  pepper,  cayei. 

Method. — Cut   the   rein. tins   of    the   ducks   into   ne.it    pieces,   put    the 
bones  and  trimmings,  tin-  onion,  thyme  and  bay-leaf  into  a  s: 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  simmer  for  at  least   i$  hours.     Mi-It    the 
butter  in  a  stewp.m,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  until  a  brown  roux  or  thickcn- 
l.  then  add  the  strained  slock,  and  stir  until  it  boils.     Add 
the  pieces  of  duck,  orange  and  lemon-juices,  and  wine,  season  to  taste, 
cover  the  stewpan  closely,  and  let  it  stand  for  about  20  minutes,  where 
the  contents  will  become  thoroughly  hot,  but  they  must  not  be  all« 
to  boil. 

onvenient  way  of  utilizing  cold  game  of  any  description, 

and  with  a  little  variation  of  flavouring  the  above  may  be  adapted  to 

oase,  pheasant,  or  partridge.     Although  the  cold  remains  of 

-vith  the  addition  of  a  good  sauce,  an  excellent    • 
Imi  to  be  eaten  in  perfection  should  be  made  from  bird- 
cooked  for  the  purpose.     A  salmi  may  be  garnished  with  croutons  of 

id  or  puf!  paste,  braised  olives,  button  mushrooms  or  trut 
slices  of  lemon,  or  divisions  of  oranges  are  considered  a  suitable 

or  wild  (1 

Time.     About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  oxl.  to  iod.,e  f  the  \\il  1 

duck.     Seasonable  from  August    i    to  March  15. 

t  should  be  made  to 

•  ill  flavouring  mat 
used    in  >n,   othi-iv. 

hould  possess. 


760 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


1341.— WOODCOCK,  ROASTED.   (Fr.— Becasse  Rotie.) 

Ingredients. — Woodcocks,  toast,  bacon,  butter  for  basting,  good  brown 
gravy  (see  Gravies),  watercress. 

Method. — The  skin  of  these  birds  is  particularly  tender,  therefore 
they  must  be  plucked  very  carefully.  They  are  trussed  in  the  same 
manner  as  other  birds  for  roasting,  but  the  head  is  skinned  and  left 
on,  the  long  beak  of  the  bird  being  passed  through  the  legs  and  body 
in  place  of  a  skewer.  Brush  over  with  warm  butter,  fasten  a  thin  slice 
of  fat  bacon  over  each  breast,  and  hang  them  on  the  spit  feet  downwards 
to  roast.  Put  the  toast  under  to  receive  the  drippings  from  the  trail, 
baste  frequently  with  hot  butter,  and  roast  for  about  15  minutes,  or 
4  or  5  minutes  less  when  preferred  very  much  underdone.  Serve  on 
the  toast,  garnish  with  watercress,  and  send  the  gravy  to  table  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  33.  9d.  to  53.  per 
brace.  Seasonable  from  August  i  to  March  15. 

THE  WOODCOCK  (Fr.  becasse)  is  a  long-billed  bird  of  the  same  genus  as  the  snipe,  and  migra- 
tory in  its  habits.  It  arrives  in  flocks  jn  Britain  in  March  and  April,  returning  to  warmer  climates 
in  the  autumn.  It  is  also  found  during  the  winter  in  Aleppo  and  Japan.  The  woodcock  is  about 
12  inches  in  length,  and  weighs  about  12  oz.  Its  colour  is  brown,  variegated  with  darker  hues; 
the  tail  is  black,  tipped  with  grey.  Its  eggs  are  brownish- white,  mottled  with  brown.  The  wood- 
cock is  a  shy  bird,  and  difficult  to  capture.  It  feeds  at  early  morn  and  at  dusk  ;  its  principal  food 
are  worms.  The  flesh  of  the  woodcock  is  held  in  high  estimation.  This  bird  is  common  in  North 
America  and  resembles  the  European  woodcock  in  its  plumage  and  habits,  but  is  of  a  smaller  size. 


REMOVES  AND  ENTREES. 


4^^ 

•« 


i.  CbaudiroJki  oi  Chicken. 
45 


1'i-coii.         J.    Rabbit  in  A>i>ic. 


ENTREES. 


i.  Fried  Rabbit.         2.  Fricasse  of  Rabbit.        3.  Cutlets  with  Peas. 


46 


RECIPES  FOR  COOKING 
HARE  AND  RABBIT 


CHAPTER    XXVI 

1342.— HARE,  BAKED,  WITH  TRUFFLES. 

(Fr.—  Lievre  aux  Truffes.) 

Ingredients. — I  young  hare,  *  a  Ib.  of  tru files,  6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped 
piekled  pork,  6  ozs.  of  finely -chopped  veal,  I  finely-chopped  si. 
i  glass  of  shen  salt  and  pepper,  fat  for  basting, 

J  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  Sa- 

Method. — Prcj  ire  as  directed  in  Notes  on  Trussing.    Pound  the 

iullot  until    mooth,  and  moi  nwhilc  with  a  little 

good  stock,  and  trulile  liquor  when  u^ing  bottled  truffles.     Pa- 
farce  through  a  \\ire  sieve,  season  to  d  add  th-  .     Cut 

^poonful  aside  to  be  n 

for  tl.  'he  remainder  to  the  1 

the  body  of  the  hare,  sew  up  the  ope  -o  shape,  and  cover 

ick  with  2  or  ;  folds  of  greased  paper.     Baste  well  with  hot  fat, 

ly  hot  oven  from  I  to  i£  hours,  basting  fre<ji 
anil  9  >  allow  tl 

u     Add  the  remainder  of  the  truffle  to  the  Espagnole  sam 

!y. 
Time. — Toba'  ij  hours,  according  to  size.     Average  Cost, 

•s.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  fror 
rch. 

•  AND  RABBITS.— Indication*  of  youth  in  a  hare  or  rabbit  are  a  narrow  cleft  In  the  lip, 

sh.irp  .in.l  MIL.  -tli  ,  I.IWN.  s-.tt  .»•.,!  nun  •  .,r.        \  •:  i    -.:.••-''    .   •:.-!••.     nd  MttCh  Md  Mtr 

rugged  claws,  are  all  signs  of  advanced  age.    When  freshly  killed,  the  flesh  has  a  moist  and  bluish 

•M;- •••  •"  - 

1343.— HARE,  BROILED.     (Fr.— Lievre  grille.) 

Ingredients.      !  f  a  roast  har«-.  enne,  bu 

Method.  into   n-  -,   brush   them   over   with 

;>cr.     Broil  over  a  clear 
browned,  brushing  o\  Gutter 

icanwhil'-.  i  good  gra\-y  or  ai 

:CC. 

Time,      in  rnnntes. 

;•  1 


762  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1344.— HARE    IN    CASSEROLE.        (Fr.—  Lievre    en 
Casserole.) 

Ingredients. — i  hare,  i|  pints  of  good  stock,  or  equal  parts  of  stock 
and  good  stout,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion  chopped,  3  cloves. 
10  peppercorns  and  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  all 
tied  together  in  muslin,  salt  and  pepper,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Force- 
meats, No.  413),  red-currant  jelly. 

Method. — Prepare  the  hare  as  directed  and  cut  it  into  pieces 
convenient  for  serving.  Heat  2  ozs.  of  butter,  fry  the  hare  until 
nicely  browned,  and  pack  closely  in  a  casserole.  Fry  the  onion  brown, 
add  it  and  the  cloves,  etc.,  to  the  hare,  cover  with  stock,  put  on  the 
lid,  and  cook  gently  for  about  2^  hours,  or  until  the  hare  is  tender. 
Knead  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter  and  the  flour  smoothly  together, 
divide  into  small  pieces,  and  add  them  to  the  contents  of  the  casserole, 
about  \  an  hour  before  serving.  Shape  the  forcemeat  into  small  balls, 
fry  in  hot  butter  or  fat,  drain  well,  and  add  them  5  minutes  before 
serving.  Remove  the  herbs  tied  in  muslin,  season  to  taste,  and  serve 
in  the  casserole,  with  red  currant  jelly  handed  separately. 

Time. — From  2\  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  53.  6d.  to  6s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

THE  HARE  (Fr.  liivre). — This  little  animal  is  found  generally  distributed  over  Europe,  and,  indeed 
in  most  parts  of  the  northern  world.  Its  extreme  timidity  is  its  protection,  for  it  is  attentive  to 
every  sonnd,  and  its  ears,  both  long  and  tubular,  enable  it  to  hear  with  great  acuteness.  I3y  the 
construction  of  its  large  prominent  eyes  it  possesses  a  wide  range  of  vision.  The  hare  lives  upon 
vegetable  food,  but  its  flesh  is  considered  dry,  although  it  is  esteemed  in  many  respects  to  be 
superior  to  that  of  the  rabbit,  being  more  savoury,  and  of  a  much  higher  flavour.  The  hare  usually 
feeds  in  the  evening  but  during  the  day  it  adheres  closly  to  its  "  form." 

1345.— HARE,  CIVET  OF.       (Fr.— Civet  de  Lievre,) 

Ingredients. — i  young  hare,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  fat  bacon,  i  pint  of  good 
stock,  i  glass  of  port  or  claret,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  dozen 
button  onions,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt  and 
pepper,  croutons  of  fried  bread 

Method. — Divide  the  hare  into  small  joints,  cut  the  bacon  into  dice, 
fry  it  lightly  in  i£  ozs.  of  hot  butter  in  a  stewpan,  then  take  it  out  and 
put  in  the  pieces  of  hare.  Sprinkle  in  the  flour,  and  let  it  brown  with 
the  hare,  which  should  be  turned  occasionally  so  that  every  part  of  it 
may  acquire  a  good  colour.  Replace  the  bacon  in  the  stewpan,  add 
the  stock  and  the  bouquet-garni,  season  to  taste,  stir  until  boiling, 
then  cover  closely  and  simmer  gently  for  about  i£  hours.  Meanwhile 
skin  the  onions,  fry  them  until  well  browned  in  the  remainder  of  the 
butter,  and  about  20  minutes  before  serving  add  them  with  the  wine 
to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan.  Pile  the  pieces  of  hare  on  a  hot  dish, 
interspersed  with  dice  of  bacon  and  onions.  Season  the  sauce  to  taste, 
and  strain  it  over,  and  garnish  the  base  of  the  dish  with  the  fried  croutons. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    HARE    AND    RABBIT 

Time. — About  i]  lunus.     Average  Cost,  Ironi  6s.  to  75.  6d.     Seasonable 
from  September  to  February. 

1346.— HARE,  CROQUETTES  OF.       (Fr.— Croquettes 
de  Lievre.) 

Ingredients. — 6  tablespoon fuls  of  finely-chopped  cooked  hare,  2  volks 

,   J.   a  ]>int  <>t   br<»\\n  sauce    (see  Sauces,  No.  2J3\  a   pinch    of 
(loves,  salt  and  pepper,  egg  and  I  i  \mg-fat, 

Method.— Mi  ike  the  sauce  as  directed,  add  the  yolks  of  eg^ 
lie  fire  until  it  tin  1'ut  in  the  hare,  add  t 

salt   and  pcpp<  i\    \vrll.  and   turn  on  to  a  plate.     When 

cool,  form  int->  cork  shaped  pieces,  coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs. 

and  try  in  hot  fat  until  I  Main  \\vll.  and  serve  gar- 

Time.— To  fry.  from  4  to  5  tnmut-  s.      Average  Cost,  is.  oxi.  to  28.  3d. 

Sufficient  for  4  p.rsons. 

1347.     HARE,  HASHED.     (Fr.— Lievre  hash6.) 

Ingredients. — Remains  of  cold  roast  hare,  j  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce 
x\  i  glass  of  port  or  claret,  salt  and  pepper,  red  currant  jelly. 

Method. — Cut  the  hare  into  neat  slices,  and  put  these  aside 
the  bones  and  trimmings  arc  being  boiled  for  stock  the  brown 

sauce  as  (i  n  economy  is  an  object,  use  equal 

of  stock  and  stout  instead  of  ad  when  fin: 

Season  the  sauce  to  taste,  put  in  the  slices  of  hare,  let  them  remain 
until  i  ly  hot,  tl  \\ith  red-currant  j 

Time.  -15  minutes.  to  reh«-.. •  .     Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d. 

1348. -HARE,    JUGGED.        (Fr.— Civet   de    Lievre   a 
1'Anglaise.) 

Ingredients.— i    hare,    :  of  good  stock,  i  glass  of  port  \\im- 

or  clai  lespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 

d   onion,   4   r  _•   peppercorns,   a  bouquet-garni 

iyme,  bay  leaf),  saJt  and  pepper,  veal  forcemeat  (see  1 

0.   red  currant    jelly. 

Method.— Prepare  the  hare  as  directed  in  Notes  on  Trussing,  and  « 
•  •ces  about  the  size  of  a  small  egg.     Heat  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  : 

.c  pieces  of  hare  brown,  then  put  them  into  a  sit 
a  little  salt,  the  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  i  glass  <  rmon- 

I,  and  the  stock  previously  made  hot.     • 
ir  closely,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  3  hours. 

I  too  hot  the  jar  should  be  placed  in  a  baking-tin  surround,  d 


764  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

by  boiling  water,  or,  when  more  convenient,  the  jar  may  stand  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  on  the  stove.  About  \  an  hour  before 
serving,  knead  the  remaining  oz.  of  butter  and  the  flour  together, 
stir  into  the  stock,  add  the  other  glass  of  wine,  and  seasoning  if  necessary. 
Make  the  forcemeat  as  directed,  shape  it  into  small  balls,  fry  in  hot 
butter  or  fat,  and  drain  well.  Pile  the  pieces  of  hare  on  a  hot  dish, 
strain  the  gravy  over,  arrange  the  forcemeat  balls  round  the  base, 
and  serve  the  red  currant  jelly  separately. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  53.  6d.  to  6s.  6d. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

1349.— HARE,  POTTED. 

Ingredients. — i  hare,  slices  of  bacon,  good  stock,  a  bouquet-garni 
(paisley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  3  cloves,  10  peppercorns,  i  blade  of  mace, 

2  bay-leaves,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper,  clarified  butter. 

Method. — Prepare  the  hare  as  directed  in  Notes  on  Trussing,  and  cut  it 
into  rather  small  pieces.  Line  the  bottom  of  a  stew-jar  or  stewpan  with 
slices  of  bacon,  pack  the  pieces  of  hare  closely  on  the  top,  add  the 
herbs,  cloves,  peppercorns,  mace,  bay-leaves,  and  a  liberal  seasoning 
of  salt.  Barely  cover  with  stock,  lay  slices  of  bacon  on  the  top,  cover 
closely,  and  cook  very  gently  either  on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven  for  about 

3  hours,  adding  more  stock  from  time  to  time.     Remove  the  bones, 
chop  the  flesh  and  the  bacon  finely,  and  pound  these  in  a  mortar  until 
smooth,  moistening  gradually  with  stock,  previously  strained.     Season 
rather  highly,  pass  the  preparation  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  press 
it  into  small  pots.     Cover  with  clarified  butter,  and  keep  in  a  cool  dry 
place. 

Time. — To  stew,  about  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  55.  6d.  to  6s. 

Note. — Cold  remains  of  hare  may  also  be  potted,  a  little  good  gravy  or 
brown  sauce  being  used  to  moisten  the  preparation. 

1350.— HARE,  ROASTED.     (Fr.— Lievre 

Ingredients. — i  hare,  bacon,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  £  of  a 
pint  of  stock,  i  glass  of  port,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i|  ozs.  of  flour,  %  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  a  good  pinch  of  thyme,  salt  and  pepper,  red  currant 
jelly,  milk  for  basting. 

Method. — Choose  a  young  hare,  which  may  be  known  by  its  smooth 
and  sharp  claws,  and  the  narrow  cleft  in  the  lip.  To  be  eaten  in  per- 
fection it  should  hang  about  8  days.  When  ready  for  use,  skin,  draw, 
and  truss  according  to  directions  given  in  Notes  on  Trussing.  Forcemeat 
is  a  matter  of  taste  ;  if  used,  it  should  be  pressed  lightly  inside  the  hare 
and  the  body  sewn  up  with  a  needle  and  strong  cotton  before  trussing. 
Carefully  follow  the  directions  given  for  trussing,  then  brush  the  hare 
all  over  with  warm  butter  or  dripping,  cover  the  back  with  slices  of 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    HARE    AND    RABBIT        765 

fat  bacon,  and  tie  it  down  with  siring  in  3  or  4  places.     Roast   the 
i\\  front  of  a  clear  fire  or  in  a  moderate  oven  from  i£  to  2  hours, 
basting  it  very  frequently  with  milk,  to  which  may  be  added,  when 
economy  is  not  an  object,  I  or  2  ozs.  of  bur  .awhile,  rein* 

gallbladder  carefully  from  the  liver,  put  the  liver  into  cold  water,  bring 
to  the  boil,  cook  for  5  minutes,  then  drain  and  chop  finely.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  add  the  liver,  onion,  parsley  and  thyme, 
fry  for  10  minutes,  then  drain,  and  return  the  butter  to  the  stewpan. 

ilaMe,  pound  the  liver,  etc.,  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  and  rub 
through  a  fine  wire  sieve.     Re-heat  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook 

he  fire  until  a  nut-brown  roux  :ed,  then  add  the  stock 

(if  none  is  at  hand  substitute  the  milk  used  for  basting),  stir  until  it 

then  add  the  liver  preparation,  season  to  taste,  for  10 

minutes,  and  just  before  serving  put  in  the  wine.     When  the  hare  is 

more  than  three  parts  cooked  remove  the  bacon,  to  allow  the  back 
to  brown,  dredging  -  » ith  flour,  and  bas  li  but- 

ter during  the  process.     Remove  the  b  :p  on  a  hot 

with  the  liver  sauce  and  red  currant  jelly  separately. 
Time. — To  roast,  from   iV  to  2  hoars.     Average  Cost,  6s.  to  6s.  6d. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  March, 

1351.— HARE,  ROAST  BARON  OF.     (Fr.— Baron  de 
Lievre  Roti.) 

Ingredients. —  i  hare,  larding  bacon,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats), 
;>int  of  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  233)  I  glass  of  port,  red  cur- 
jelly,  butter  or  fat  for  basting. 

Method.  :i  will  be  found  most  useful  for  a  small  dinner. 

to  the  shouKler-bladcs,  alone  i^  t  the  legs, 

"<1  into  soup,  potted,  or  made  into  a 
it  to  the  \ 
:h  strong  cot  ton.     • 
fully    remove    the    skin    from    tl. 

..-on.       Wrap     the     h.ire    in    r    or    3    fo: 

•  nd  roast  in  front  « 

fire  or  in  a  mr.<  •  n  from  .jo  to  50  minutes,  basting  frequently 

with  hot  butter  or  dripping.     When  the  cookr  rly  com} 

remo\  •  irdoons  to  crisp, 

directed,  add  the  wine,  season  to  taste,  and  ser\  Soat. 

Time. — To  cook,  40  to  50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6s.  to  6s.  6d.,  in- 
liare.     Seasonable  from  September  to  the  end  of 
ch. 

1352.— HARE  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  de  Lievre.) 

See  page  166,  Soup  Scctio; 


766  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1353.     RABBIT    IN   ASPIC    JELLY.     (Fr.— Lapin   en 
Gelee.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  rabbit,  aspic  jelly,  hard-boiled  eggs,  shredded 
bacon. 

Method. — Divide  the  rabbit  into  neat  pieces.  Cover  the  bottom 
of  a  plain  mould  with  a  thin  layer  of  liquid,  but  cold,  aspic  jelly,  and, 
when  set,  decorate  with  slices  or  sections  of  egg,  and  add  more  jelly. 
Arrange  the  pieces  of  rabbit  in  layers  interspersed  with  strips  of  bacon 
and  slices  of  egg,  and  fill  up  with  jelly.  Put  aside  until  set,  then 
unmould,  garnish  with  chopped  aspic,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  set  the  aspic,  from  2  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to 
33.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

THE  RABBIT. — This  animal  is  an  inhabitant  of  the  temperate  regions,  but  does  not  reach  so  far 
north  as  the  hare,  to  which  it  is  allied.  The  wild  rabbit  is  a  native  of  Great  Britain,  and  is  found 
in  large  numbers  in  Norfolk  and  Cambridgeshire.  The  flesh  of  the  wild  rabbit  is  darker  than  that 
of  the  domesticated  species,  and  is  by  some  considered  to  possess  a  higher  flavour,  although  neither 
so  white  nor  so  delicate.  It  is  also  smaller  in  size  and  less  fat  than  the  tame  rabbit. 

I354-— RABBIT,  AMERICAN  STYLE.     (Fr.— Lapin  a 
rAmericaine.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato  puree,  1%  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  dripping,  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  lemon-juice, 
castor  sugar. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  rabbit  thoroughly,  and  divide  it  into 
neat  joints.  Heat  the  dripping  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  rabbit  until 
well-browned,  and  drain  away  the  fat.  Barely  cover  with  stock, 
put  on  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  cook  very  gently  until  tender.  Mean- 
while heat  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  fry  the  flour  slowly  until  it 
acquires  a  nut-brown  colour,  then  stir  in  the  tomato  puree.  When 
ready,  remove  the  rabbit  and  keep  it  hot.  Strain  and  add  f  of  a 
pint  of  the  stock  to  the  blended  flour  and  butter.  Stir  until  boiling, 
season  to  taste,  and  add  a  pinch  of  sugar  and  about  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice.  Put  in  the  rabbit,  make  thoroughly  hot,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  stew,  from  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Qd.  to  2s.  id. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

1 35S-— RABBIT  A  LA  MINUTE.        (Fr.— Lapin  a  la 
Minute.) 

Ingredients. — i  young  rabbit,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  i  good  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms,  \  dessertspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  \  a  saltspoonful  of  mace,  salt  and  pepper,  f-  of  a  pint 
of  boiling  stock  or  water. 

Method. — Wash  and  thoroughlydry  the  rabbit  and  cut  it  into  neat  joints. 
Heat  2\  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  rabbit,  sprinkle  with 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   HARE   AND    RABBIT        767 

salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  mace.  Put  on  the  cover,  which  should 
fit  as  closely  as  possible,  and  cook  gently  for  45  minutes,  turning  the 
pieces  over  and  basting  frequently.  Meanwhile  melt  the  remainder 
of  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  gently 
for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then  add  the  stock.  Boil  up, 
simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  and  pour  over  the  rabbit  when  it  has 
cooked  for  40  minutes.  Add  the  parsley,  mushrooms,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  and  continue  to  cook  slowly  for  20  minutes  longer,  or  until 
the  rabbit  is  tender.  Serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  iod.  to  2s.  2d.     Sufficient  for 
4  persons.     Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

VARIETIES  OF  RABBITS. — Among  the  numerous  varieties  of  rabbits,  some  are  kept  for  their  beauty, 
and  are  known  as  "  fancy  "  rabbits.     These  are  of  foreign  origin,  and  probably  came  originally 
India  and  Chi.-.a.     The  most  valued  are  the  lop-eared  and  Angora;   other   kinds, 
as  the  Belgian  hare-rabbit,  the  silver-grey,  the  Himalayan  and  the  Dutch  raL: 
qualities  of  form  or  for  the  excellence  of  their  flesh.     For  the  table  the  !  rabbits  are  the 

their  sire,  •••  • :th  whirh  they  arrive  at  maturity.        The  connix-n 

white,  and  yellow  and  white  si -vies  have  white  and  delicate  flesh,  and  when  cooked  in  a  similar  way 
to  the  turkey  are  said  t«>  i  :  vria-wild  r.ibbits  .ur  ilistmsruishei! . 

who  burrow  underneath  the  e.uth.  an 

pleasure  ground  of  an  estate,  where  they  usually  breed  in  great  numbers,  and 
v  the  hares ;  and  the  "  hedgehog,"  of  roaming  habits. 

1356.— RABBIT,     BARBECUE     OF.  (/->.— Lapin 

Grille.) 

Ingredients.— i  r  oiled  butter,  salt  and 

pepper.      1-or    the    sauce:     J  ills   of    good    gr.'\y.     i     table- 

spoonful  of  lemon-jnice,   i   tcaspoonful  of   I-'renrh  mustard.     For  the 

:   lemon,  fried  par- 
Method. — Cut  off  the  head,  let  \  It  and  watrr 
hour,   and  afterwards  dry  it  thoroughly.     Score  the  back   an •  i 

ason  \vith  salt  an  :  coat  liberally  \\r 

or  oiled  butter.     Heat  up  the  gravy  and  other  ingredients,     i 

a    for   i    hour,    then    again    sprinkle    the-    rabbit   \\ith    salt  and 
r.  brush  it  over  with  oil  or  butter,  and  broil  it  over  or  in  front 
of    a  clear  fire.      Turn  frequently,  and  l>i  \\ith  oil  or   butter 

whenever   it   appears   in    th<  !e  into  i. 

dish   up,  pour  over  a   little  brown  sauce,  and   garnish   with  spi 
fried  parsley  and  sliced  lemon. 

Time. — To  broil,  from  20  to  25  minutes.     Average  Cost,   is.  6d.  to 
is.  9d.     Sufficient  for  j;  to  4  persons.     Seasonable  fromScptr  Manh. 

THiCoHMOM  OK  WILD  RABBIT.— This  well-known  rodent  belong  to  the  same  family  (I  ffiori4tt\  r» 
the  hare,  but  i*  smaller  in  size,  and  its  hind  legs  and  ears  are  snorter.     In  the  wil  ! 
of  the  rabbit  is  a  greyish-brown ;  the  colour  under  domestication,  however,  changes  f, 
to  black,  white  or  other  shades.     The  fur  is  used  for  many  purposes,  as  the 
the  imitation  of  \wve  costly   lurs,  etc.     The  rabbit  is  one  of  the  most  prolific  of  anii: 
in  Australia  and  New  Zeal 
as  to  become 
the  B  i*  were  once 

indthe 
,1  the  Roman 
• 

*   or    "  warrr:)-  "    in    f  i  and  are 

markets,  as  well  as  for  their  fur  and  skin. 


768  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

I357-— RABBIT,  BOILED.      (Fr.~ Lapin  bouilli.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  ^  a  turnip,  a  bouquet-garni 
(parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns,  salt,  onion  sauce  (see  Sauces, 
No.  265),  boiled  or  fried  bacon. 

Method. — Truss  the  rabbit  (see  Notes  on  Trussing),  put  it  into  boiling 
water  ;  when  the  water  re-boils  add  the  vegetables  cut  into  large  pieces, 
the  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cook  gently 
from  45  to  60  minutes,  according  to  the  age  and  size  of  the  rabbit. 
Remove  the  skewers,  serve  on  a  hot  dish,  coat  with  onion  sauce,  and 
send  the  remainder  to  table  in  a  sauce-boat.  Serve  the  bacon  on  a 
separate  dish,  unless  small  rolls  are  preferred,  when  they  may  be  used 
as  garnish.  The  liquor  in  which  the  rabbit  was  cooked  may  be  served 
separately  as  broth,  or  afterwards  converted  into  a  white  soup. 

Time. — From  .45  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd.  to  2s. 
Sufficient,  one  large  rabbit  for  4  persons. 

1358.— RABBIT,  CREAM  OF.     (Fr.— Cremede  Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  raw  rabbit,  \  of  a  pint  of  THICK  white  sauce 
(No.  221), i  small  egg.  salt  and  pepper,  \  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (No.  233). 

Method. — Chop  the  flesh  of  the  rabbit  finely,  or  pass  it  2  or  3  times 
through  a  mincing  machine,  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  until  smooth. 
Work  in  the  egg,  add  the  white  sauce,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve.  Press  lightly  into  6  or  8 
well-buttered  bomb  or  other  small  moulds,  steam  gently  until  firm, 
and  serve  with  the  brown  sauce  strained  over  the  dish. 

Time. — To  steam  the  moulds,  from  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
about  2S.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  moulds.  Seasonable  from  September  to 
March. 

FECUNDITY  OF  THE  RABBIT. — The  reproduction  of  this  animal  has  been  the  subject  of  wonder  to  all 
naturalists.  It  breeds  seven  times  in  the  year,  and  generally  begets  seven  or  eight  young  ones  at 
a  time.  If  we  suppose  this  to  happen  regularly  for  a  period  of  four  years,  the  progeny  that  would 
spring  from  a  single  pair  would  amount  to  more  than  a  million.  The  rabbit,  however,  has  many 
enemies,  and  its  numbers  are  largely  kept  down  by  carnivorous  animals  of  every  description. 
As  previously  mentioned,  in  the  time  of  the  Roman  power  rabbits  once  infested  the  Balearic  Islands 
to  such  an  extent  that  the  inhabitants  were  obliged  to  implore  the  assistance  of  a  military  force 
from  Augustus  to  exterminate  them. 

I359-— RABBIT,  CURRIED.     (Fr.— Lapin  au  Kari.) 

Ingredients. — I  rabbit,  4  or  5  ozs.  of  cooked  rice,  3  ozs.  of  butter  or 
fat,  2  onions,  i  apple,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  tablespoonful  of  curry- 
powder,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Salt. 

Method. — Wash  the  rabbit,  dry  it  thoroughly,  and  divide  it  into  small 
joints;  slice  the  apple  and  the  onions.  Heat  the  butter  or  fat  in  a  stew- 
pan,  fry  the  rabbit  until  lightly  browned,  remove  it,  put  in  the  onions, 
and  when  they  have  acquired  a  deep  brown  colour  add  the  curry -powder 
and  flour,  and  fry  for  10  minutes.  Now  put  in  the  stock,  and  when 
boiling  replace  the  rabbit,  add  the  apple,  salt  to  taste,  cover,  and 


GAME. 


i.— Hen  Wild  Duck.  a.-Wood  Pigeon.  v-Woodcock.  4.~Cock  Wild  Duck. 
5.— Black  Plover.  6.— Golden  Plover.  7--Snipe.  8.— Pheasants.  9.— Hare. 
io.— Teal. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   HARE   AND    RABBIT        769 

simmer  gently  for  i|  to  i£  hours.  Before  serving,  add  the  lemon- 
juice  and  seasoning  if  necessary.  Pile  the  rabbit  in  the  centre  of  a 
hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  serve  the  rice  separately. 

Time. — From  2$  to  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons. 

1360.— RABBIT  CUTLETS.   (Fr.— Cotelettes  de  Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — 2  rabbits,  liver  farce  No.  398,  brown  sauce  (see 
Sauces),  egg,  breadcrumbs,  butter  or  frying-fat,  parsley. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  legs  and  necks  of  the  rabbits,  and  put  them 
aside  to  be  ait  converted  into  a  ragout  or  pie.  Remove  the 

flesh  from  the  back  of  each  rabbit,  keeping  it  whole,  and  afterwards 
divide  it  into  pieces  of  even  and  suitable  size.  Flatten  them  with 
a  cutlet-bat,  trim  neatly,  and  fry  gently  for  10  or  15  minutes  in  hot 
butter  or  fat.  Press  between  2  dishes  until  cold,  then  cover  one  side 
kly  with  liver  farce,  and  coat  carefully  with  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs. Fry  in  a  deep  pan  of  fat  until  nicely  browned,  then  drain 
well  and  serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley.  Send  the  sauce  to  table 
in  a  sauce-boat. 

Timj. — To  fry,   10  or  15  minutes,  and  afterwards  6  or  7  minute-;. 

Average  Cost,  rabbits  from  is.  2d.  to  is.  6d.  each.  Seasonable  from 
September  to  Ma- 

1361.— RABBIT,  DARIOLES   OF.      (Fr.— Darioles   de 
Lapin.) 

Ingredients.—}  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  raw  rabbit,  i  oz.  of  panada, 
2  tablespoon fuls  of  brown  sauce  No.  233,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream, 
I  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  mushroom  or  oyster  sauce. 

Method. — Pound  the  rabbit  until  smooth,  add  the  egg,  panada,  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  and,  when  well  mixed,  pass  through  a  fine  wire 
sieve.  Stir  in  the  cream  and  brown  sauce,  press  the  preparation  lightly 
into  weU-buttcred  darioles,  and  steam  gently  until  firm.  Unmould  and 
serve  with  mushroom,  oyster  or  celery  sauce. 

Time.  '1  the  darioles,  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost, 

is.  Sd.  .  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  darioles.  Seasonable  from  Septem- 

ber to  March. 

1362.— RABBIT,    FRICASSEE    OF.      (Fr.— Lapin   en 
Fricassee.) 

Ingredients. — I  young  rabbit,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  white 
stock,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  2  onions  sliced,  I  carrot  sliced,  $  a  small  turnip 
.  i  or  2  strips  of    clcry  shredded,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf),  i  blade  of  mace,  6  white  peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper. 

CO 


770  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Cut  the  r  -bbit  into  neat  joints,  an  1  after  rinsi  g  in  warm 
water,  place  them  in  a  stewpan,  and  add  just  sufficient  white  stock 
to  cover.  Bring  to  boiling  point,  add  the  prepared  vegetables,  pepper- 
corns and  a  little  salt,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for  about  i-|- 
hours,  or  until  the  rabbit  is  tender,  adding  a  little  milk  from  time  to 
time,  to  replace  the  stock.  Meanwhile  melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour, 
stir  and  cook  gently  without  browning,  and  put  aside  until  wanted. 
When  ready,  take  up  the  rabbjt  and  keep  it  hot,  strain  and  add  f-  of 
a  pint  of  the  stock  to  the  blended  flour  and  butter,  stir  until  boiling, 
and  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes.  Pass  the  vegetables  through  a 
fine  sieve,  and  stir  the  puree  into  the  sauce.  Season  to  taste,  replace 
the  rabbit,  make  thoroughly  hot,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 


1363.— RABBIT,  FILLETS  OF.     (Fr.—  Filets  de  Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — 2  rabbits,  larding  bacon,  a  mirepoix  (see  No.  949),  stock 
glaze,  £  a  pint  of  brown  sauce. 

Method. — Remove  the  flesh  from  the  back  of  each  rabbit  (see  Rabbit 
Cutlets),  divide  into  pieces  of  suitable  size,  and  lard  one  side  of  them 
in  close  even  rows.  Place  the  vegetables  in  a  stewpan,  add  stock  to 
nearly  cover  them,  and  lay  the  fillets  on  the  top.  Cover  with  a  greased 
paper,  put  on  the  lid,  which  should  fit  closely,  and  cook  very  gently 
for  about  i  hour,  adding  more  stock  from  time  to  time.  Put  the 
fillets  into  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  to  crisp  the  bacon,  then  brush 
them  over  with  glaze,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  the  sauce  poured 
round. 

Time. — To  braise  the  fillets,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  rabbit  from 
is.  2d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from 
September  to  March. 


1364.— RABBIT,  FRIED  WITH  TARTARE  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Lapereau  frit  a  la  Tartare.) 

Ingredients. — i  young  rabbit.  For  the  marinade,  or  sauce  :  }  of  a  pint  of 
salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  chili  vinegar,  i  tablespoonful  of  malt, 
vinegar,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  2  cloves,  i  bay-leaf,  i  blade  of  mace, 
salt  and  pepper,  £  of  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  sauce  No.  201,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  coarsely-chopped  pickled  gherkins,  egg,  breadcrumbs, 
frying-fat. 

'  Method. — Bone  the  legs  of  the  rabbit,  and  remove  the  flesh  from  the 
back  in  large  fillets.     Place  them  in  a  deep  dish,  pour  over  the  marinade, 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING   HARE    AND    RABBIT        771 

and  let  them  remain  in  it  for  at  least  i  hour,  turning  frequently.  Make 
the  mayonnaise  sauce  as  directed,  and  add  to  it  the  chopped  gherkin. 
Drain  the  pieces  of  rabbit  well,  coat  them  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well,  arrange  in  a 
pyramidal  form  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  crisply-fried  parsley,  and 
serve  the  mayonnaise  sauce  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — From  i£  to  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  jd.  to  2s.  oxi.  Suffi- 
cient for  3  or  4  persons. 

1365.— RABBIT,  JUGGED.      (Fr.— Civet  de  Lapin.) 

Ingredients. —  i  rabbit,  i  pint  of  good  stock,  i  glass  of  port  or  claret, 
I  dessertspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  2$  ozs,  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i 
medium-sized  onion,  2  cloves,  8  peppercorns,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt  and  pepper,  veal  forcemeat  No.  413,  red- 
currant  jelly. 

Method.—  Wash  and  dry  the  rabbit  and  cut  it  into  neat  joints.  Fry 
in  \\  ozs.  of  hot  butter  until  well  browned,  and  afterwards  follow  the 
directions  for  Hare,  Jugged,  p.  763. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

THE  RABBIT  HOUSE. —To  keep  rabbits  in  good  health,  especially  if  they  are  valuable  and  of  a  pure 
and  delicate  breed,  it  •  that  the  hutches  should  be  properly  constructed,  sheltered 

from  draughts,  and  protected  from  damp.  If  a  number  of  rabbits  are  kept,  a  dry  brickwork  building. 
such  as  a  stable  or  similar  outbuilding,  with  good  ventilation,  may  advantageously  be  used  for  this 
purpose.  Around  three  sides  of  the  building  hutches  in  tiers  should  be  arranged,  the  lowest  tier 
being  placed  some  few  inches  from  the  ground.  The  size  of  the  hutches  will  be  dependent  upon 
the  number  of  rabbits  and  the  particular  purpose  for  which  they  are  required,  but  should  not  be 
less  than  20  in.  in  width,  constructed  of  white  deal,  with  a  gradual  slope  from  the  front  to  the  hack 
of  the  hutch,  the  latter  being  provided  with  a  rinc  gutter.  Each  hutch  should  be  divided  into 
two  section*,  the  smaller,  about  ore-third  of  the  length  of  the  hutch,  serving  a«  a  dark  or  sleeping 
compartment  with  an  arched  hole,  made  smooth  to  prevent  injury  to  the  fur  of  the  rabbit  when 
passing  from  one  part  of  the  hutch  to  the  other.  A  double  floor  to  the  butch  will  conduce  to  the 
health  and  cleanliness  of  the  rabbit.  The  lower  floor  should  be  constructed  of  pine,  about  i  in.  in 
thickness,  and  the  upper  floor  made  of  half-inch  laths,  i  in.  apart,  placed  diagonally  or  at  right  angles 
to  one  another.  In  the  case  of  "  outside  hutches  "  care  must  be  taken  that  the  hutches  have  a 
southern  aspect,  and  are  protected  from  cold  and  wet,  but  ventilation  must  not  be  forgotten,  for 
pure  air  Is  indispensable  where  many  rahbits  are  kept ;  it  should,  however,  be  regulated  in  cold  or 
wrt  weather  by  the  closing  or  shutting  of  opposite  doors  or  windows.  Where  a  large  number  of 
rabbits  are  kept  for  breeding  and  rearing  for  the  market,  a  rabbit-court  is  the  most  advantageous 
for  tint  purpose. 

1366.— RABBIT,  LARDED  AND  BRAISED. 

(Fr. — Lapin  pique  et  braise.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  rabbit,  larding  bacon,  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz. 
of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  dripping,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay- 
leaf),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —Wash  and  dry  the  rabbit  thoroughly,  cut  it  into  neat  pieces, 
and  lard  each  piece  by  inserting  thin  strips  of  larding  bacon.  Heat  the 
dripping  in  a  stewpan,  i  •  Slut  quickly  until  lightly  browned,  and 

drain  away  the  fat.  Cover  with  stock,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
the  herbs  tied  in  muslin,  cover  closely , and  cook  gently  from  1 1  to  i  £  hcr.i  rs, 
or  until  the  rabbit  is  quite  tender.  Knead  the  butter  and  Hour  to- 


772  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

gether,  and  add  it,  in  small  pieces,  to  the  contents  of  the  Gtewpan 
about  20  minutes  before  serving.  Serve  with  the  sauce  strained 
over. 

Time. — From  i^  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  to  2s.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

1367.—  RABBIT,  MARBLED. 

Ingredients. — 2  rabbits,  i  Ib.  of  pickled  pork  or  bacon  in  slices,  stock, 
2  hard-boiled  eggs,  i  raw  egg,  £  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  -J-  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  •£  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  heads  and  necks,  wash  the  rabbits,  and  let 
them  soak  for  at  least  i  hour  in  strong  salted  water.  Pack  closely 
in  a  stewpan,  lay  the  slices  of  pork  or  bacon  on  the  top,  and  barely 
cover  with  stock.  Cover  closely,  simmer  gently  from  i  hour  to  i|- 
hours,  or  until  the  rabbits  are  tender,  and  remove  the  flesh  from  the 
bones  in  as  large  pieces  as  possible.  Chop  all  the  small  pieces  of  flesh 
as  finely  as  possible,  mix  with  it  the  herbs  and  seasoning,  and  half  its 
weight  in  breadcrumbs,  and  finely-chopped  pork  or  bacon,  and 
moisten  with  egg.  Cut  the  remainder  of  the  pork  or  bacon  into 
strips.  Fry  the  livers  and  kidneys  in  hot  butter  or  fat,  drain  them 
well,  and  when  cool  slice  them  rather  thinly.  Form  the  prepared  force- 
meat into  small  balls,  drop  them  into  boiling  stock  or  water,  and  simmer 
for  10  minutes.  Add  i  pint  of  strained  stock  to  the  gelatine,  stir 
over  the  fire  until  dissolved,  season  to  taste,  and,  if  cloudy,  clear  with 
white  of  egg.  When  cool,  pour  a  little  into  a  mould,  let  it  set,  then 
cover  with  pieces  of  rabbit,  interspersed  with  strips  of  pork  or  bacon, 
forcemeat  balls,  liver,  kidney,  and  slices  of  egg.  Repeat  until  all 
the  materials  are  used,  taking  care  to  leave  spaces  to  admit  the 
stock,  which  must  be  added  to  completely  cover  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients.  Put  aside  until  set,  then  unmould,  and  use  as  required. 
Time. — Altogether,  about  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  4d.  to  45.  Suffi- 
cient for  i  or  2  moulds.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

1368.— RABBIT  PATTIES.     (Fr.— Pates  de  Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  either  raw  or  cooked  rabbit,  2  ozs.  of  ham 
or  lean  bacon,  stock  or  water,  salt  and  pepper,  short  crust  or  puff  paste, 
i  egg. 

Method. — Cut  both  rabbit  and  bacon  into  rather  small  dice,  season 
liberally  with  salt  and  pepper,  mix  well,  and  moisten  with  stock  or 
water.  Have  ready  some  patty-pans  lined  with  paste,  fill  them  with 
the  meat  preparation,  and  put  on  the  covers.  Brush  over  with  egg, 
and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  20  minutes,  or  until 
cooked  if  using  raw  meat.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — To  bake,  20  minutes  or  longer.     Average  Cost,  about  is.,  in 


RECIPES    FOR   COGXIXG   HARE   AND    RABBIT      773 

addition    to    the    rabbit.     Sufficient    for  12  patties.     Seasonable  from 
September  to  March. 

FANCY  RABBITS. — The  chief  points  reouired  by  a  fancier  are  respectively  the  graceful  fall  of  the 
ears,  the  dewlap,  the  colour  and  marked  point*,  and  the  shape  and  general  appearance.  The  ears 
should  extend  at  least  7  in.,  measured  from  tip  to  tip  in  a  line  across  the  skull,  and  must 
also  have  a  uniform  and  graceful  droop.  Sometimes  the  ears,  instead  of  drooping  down,  slope 
backwards ;  a  rabbit  with  this  characteristic  is  scarcely  admitted  into  a  fancy  lot,  and  is  of  little 
value.  The  next  position  is  when  one  ear  lops  outwards  and  the  other  stands  erect ;  this  consti- 
tutes the  half-lop.  The  forward  or  horn-lop  is  one  degree  nearer  perfection  than  the  half-lop  ;  the 
ears  slope  forward  and  down  over  the  forehead.  Horn-lops  are  often  perfect  in  other  respects,  with 
the  exception  of  the  droop  of  the  ears,  and  frequently  become  the  parents  of  yomuj  ones  which  are 
perfect.  In  the  ear-lop,  the  ears  spread  out  in  a  horizontal  position  like  the  wing*  of  a  bird 
when  in  flight  Occasionally  a  rabbit  drops  one  ear  completely,  but  raises  the  other  so  nearly  hori- 
My  as  to  constitute  an  ear-lop.  This  variety  is  superior  to  all  others  except  the  perfect  full- 
lop,  and  if  well-bred  and  with  good  points  is  esteemed  a  valuable  rabbit 

'I  he  ears  of  the  real  or  full-lop  hang  down  by  the  side  of  the  cheek,  slanting  somewhat  outward 
in  their  descent,  with  the  open  part  of  the  ear  inward,  and  sometimes  either  backwards  or  forwards 
iJ  of  perpendicular;  when  the  rabbit  stands  in  an  easy  position,  the  tips  of  the  ears  tourh 
the  ground,  The  hollows  of  a  fancy  rabbit  of  the  first  quality  should  be  turned  so  completely 
backwards  that  only  the  outer  part  of  them  should  remain  in  front ;  they  should  match  exactly  in 
their  df'csiH,  and  should  slant  outwards  as  little  as  possible. 

The  dewlap,  seen  only  in  fancy  rabbits  when  they  have  attained  their  full  growth,  is  a  fold  of  skin 
under  the  neck  and  throat,  which  commences  immediately  under  the  jaw  .ind  goes  down  the  throat 
and  between  the  forelegs,  and  projects  in  breadth  beyond  the  chin.  If  perfect,  it  adds  greatly 
to  the  beauty  of  the  appearance  of  the  rabbit 

The  colour  of  the  fur  of  fancy  rabbits  may  be  of  various  hues,  provided  these  colours  are  arranged 
in  a  particular  manner,  forming  imaginary  figures  or  fancied  resemblances  to  certain  objects,  such 
peculiarities  of  marking  being  denoted  by  distinctive  designations. 

rabbit  must  alto  have  other  characteristic  marks  to  be  a  perfect  model  of  its  kind. 
The  tail  must  be  of  the  same  colour  as  the  back  and  snout ;  there  must  be  a  black  or  blur  ' 
on  the  back,  known  as  "  the  saddle  " ;  there  should  also  be  dark  stripes  on  both  sides  of  the 
body  in  front,  passing  backwards  to  meet  the  saddle  and  uniting  on  the  top  of  the  shoulders. 
These  stripes  form  "  the  chain,"  and  are  to  called  from  their  resemblance  to  a  chain  or  collar  hang- 
ing round  the  neck. 

Co:  :  w  thoroughbred  fancy  rabbits  will  have  all  these  markings  clearly  defined  on 

the  fur  ;  but  the  more  closely  they  approach  to  the  pattern  described,  the  greater  will  be  the  value 
il  as  relates  to  its  colour.  The  beauty  and  consequent  worth  of  a  fancy  rabbit  depends, 
however,  much  on  its  shape,  or  what  is  styled  its  carriage.  A  rabbit  is  said  to  have  a  food  carnage 
when  its  back  is  finely  arched,  rising  full  two  inches  above  the  top  of  its  head,  which  must  be  held 
so  low  as  to  allow  the  muule  and  the  points  of  the  can  to  reach  almost  to  the  ground. 

1369.— RABBIT  PIE.     (Fr.— Pat6  de  Lapin.) 

Ingredients. —  i  rabbit,  £  a  Ib.  of  bacon  or  pickled  pork,  £  a  Ib.  of 
beefsteak,  \  a  pint  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  short  crust  or  puff  pu 

Method. — Wash  the  rabbit,  di\i  >  small  joints,  cut  the  beef 

into  small  thin  slices,  and  the  pork  into  dice.     Place  these  ingrcdi< 
in  l.ivrr-,  in  B  ,  season  each  layer  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper, 

and  J  fill  \\ithstock.     Cover  with  paste  (see  Veal  and  Ham  i 

No.  798),  bake  from  \\  to  2  hours  in  a  brisk  oven  until  the  paste  has  n 
and  set,  «vly.     Before  serving,  add  the  re- 

mainder of  the  hot  stock  to  tlu  pie.     When  the  pie  is  intended  to  be 

••n  cold,  forcemeat  balls  and  hard-boiled  eggs  will  be  found  an 
imp:  ,  and  the  appearance  may  be  improved  by  brushing  it 

.vith  yolk  of  <.  }  baked. 

Time. — T<  orn  ij  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.,  exclusive 

of  the  paste.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

THE  ANGORA  RABBIT.— As  its  name  implies,  this  handsome  rabbit  is  a  native  of  Angora,  a  city  and 
district  of  Asia  Minor,  and  noted  for  the  long  hair  of  the  animals  whirh  live  in  this  region,  particu- 
larly the  sheep,  goats  and  cats,  whose  wool  and  fur  are  exceptionally  fine  in  texture.  The  fur  ol 
the  Angora  rabbit  to  long,  waved  and  silky  and  is  much  valued  as  an  article  of  commerce. 


774  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1370.— RABBIT,  PILAU  OF.     (Fr.— Pilau   de  Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  \  a  Jb.  of  Carolina  rice,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  2  large 
onions  sliced,  \\  pints  of  stock  (about),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  rabbit  thoroughly,  and  divide  it  into 
neat  joints.  Heat  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  onions,  and 
cook  gently  until  lightly  browned.  Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  add  it 
to  the  onions  and  butter,  stir  over  the  fire  for  about  10  minutes,  then 
cover  with  boiling  stock  and  simmer  gently.  Fry  the  rabbit  very 
slowly  in  the  remainder  of  the  butter  until  well  browned,  and  put  it, 
and  the  butter  in  which  it  was  fried,  into  the  stewpan  containing  the 
rice.  Continue  to  cook  slowly  for  i  hour,  or  until  the  rabbit  is  quite 
tender,  adding,  from  time  to  time,  just  as  much  stock  as  is  necessary 
to  prevent  the  rice  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  meanwhile 
keeping  the  stewpan  closely  covered.  Serve  the  rabbit  piled  on  the 
rice. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

THE  HIMALAYA  RABBIT. — Amidst  the  mighty  Himalaya  mountains,  whose  peaks  are  the  highest 
on  the  globe,  the  pretty  rabbit  here  portrayed  is  found  ;  and  his  colour  seems  to  be  like  the  snow, 
which,  above  the  altitude  of  from  13,000  to  16,000  feet,  perpetually  crowns  the  summits  of  these 
monarchs  of  the  world. 

1371.— RABBIT  PUDDING.    (Fr.—  Pouding  de  Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  \  a  Ib.  of  pickled  pork  cut  into  dice,  flour, 
salt  and  pepper,  suet  paste  No.  1671. 

Method. — Wash  the  rabbit,  cut  it  into  neat  joints,  and  put  the  head, 
neck,  liver  and  kidneys  aside,  to  be  af terwards  stewed  for  gravy.  Mix 
together  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  J  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  pepper  ;  coat  the  pieces  of  rabbit  with  the  mixture,  and  put  them 
closely  in  a  basin  lined  with  paste,  interspersing  the  dice  of  pork  (see 
Beef  and  Kidney  Pudding,  No.  841).  Nearly  fill  the  basin  with  cold 
water,  cover  first  with  paste,  and  afterwards  with  2  or  3  folds  of  greased 
paper,  and  steam  for  at  least  24-  hours.  Turn  out  the  pudding  on  a 
hot  dish  and  send  the  gravy  made  from  the  head,  etc.  to  table  separately. 

Time. — To  steam  the  pudding,  from  z\  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost, 
2S.  to  2S.  4d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  September 
to  March. 

1372.— RABBIT,  ROAST  WITH  ESPAGNOLE  SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Lapin  Roti  a  TEspagnole.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  veal  forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats),  bacon, 
£  of  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce  No.  244. 

Method. — Stuff  the  rabbit  with  the  forcemeat,  sew  up  the  opening, 
and  truss  according  to  directions  given  on  Trussing.  Cover  the  back 


RECIPES  FOR    COOKING   HARE    AND    RABBIT      775 

with  slices  of  streaky  bacon,  baste  well  with  hot  dripping,  and  roast 
from  50  to  60  minutes  before  a  clear  fire  or  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
Baste  frequently,  otherwise  the  flesh  will  be  dry,  and  a  few  minutes 
before  serving  remove  the  bacon  to  allow  the  back  of  the  rabbit  to 
brown.  Remove  the  skewers,  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  some  of  the  sauce 
poured  round,  garnish  with  the  bacon  cut  into  dice,  or  have  ready  some 
crisply-fried  small  rolls  of  bacon,  and  send  the  remainder  of  the  sauce 
to  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — From  50  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  23.  6d.  to  2s.  9d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

I373--RABBIT,  RICH  STEW  OF.   (Fr.— Gibelotte  de 
Lapin. ) 

Ingredients.— i  rabbit,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  streaky  bacon,  i  pint  of  good 
stock,  i  glass  of  claret,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  18  button 
onions,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  cloves,  6  pepper- 
corns, salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  rabbit  into  small  joints,  cut  the  bacon  into  dice, 
and  peel  the  onions.     Heat  the  butter  in  a  siewpan,  fry  the  onions 
and  bacon  until  brown,  and  remove  to  a  pi. tie.      Now  put  in  the  r 
and  when  it  has  acquired  a  little  colour  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  and  con- 
until  both  rabbit  and  flour  are  well  browned.     Replace 
the  onions  and  bacon,  add  the  hot  stock,  bouquet-garni,  cloves,  j 
corns,  and  salt  to  taste,  cover  closely,  and  stew  gently  for  about  i  hour, 
or  until  the  rabbit  is  tender.     15  minutes  before  serving  add  the  claret, 
and  when  the  sauce  again  reaches  simmering  point  put  in  the 
previously  washed  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  let  it  cook  for  about  i  o 
minutes.      Pile  the  rabbit  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  season  the  sauce  to 
taste   and  strain  it  over,  garnish  the  base  with  groups  of  bacon-dice 
and  onions,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or 
4  persons. 

1374-  -RABBIT  SOUFFLE.     (Fr.— Souffle  de  Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  :  pped  ra 

2  ozs.  <>t  Hour,  3  eggs,  $  a  pint  of  mi!  pper,  brown 
(see  Sauces). 

Method.     Melt    the  batter,   add   the  flour,  stir  in     he  milk,  simmer 

gently  lor  m  minutes,  and  put  the  sauce  aside  to  cool.     Pound   the 

flesh  of  the  rabbit  until  smooth,  work  in  the  yol1..  .  add  the  white 

sauce.  Pass  the  mixture 

'•.  add  the  stittlv-\\hij>;  s  of  eggs,  and  turn 
well  biitten-d  soulile-tin.      Ste.un  gently  from  40  to  50  minutes 
brown  sauce  poured  round. 


776         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time. — To  steam,  from  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2S.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  i  large  souffle.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

1375.— RABBIT  WITH  SPANISH  ONIONS. 

Ingredients. — i  large  rabbit,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ham  or  bacon,  4  or  5  Spanish 
onions,  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  rabbit,  cut  it  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving, 
cut  the  onions  into  thin  slices,  and  the  ham  or  bacon  into  dice.  Line  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  a  fireproof  earthenware  stew-jar  or  casserole  with 
slices  of  onion,  put  in  a  single  layer  of  rabbit,  add  a  few  pieces  of  ham, 
sprinkle  well  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  with  slices  of  onion. 
Now  put  in  the  remainder  of  the  rabbit,  with  the  bacon,  flour,  and  season- 
ing as  before,  cover  the  surface  completely  with  slices  of  onion,  and  add 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water.  Put  on  the  lid,  which  must  fit  closely, 
place  the  stew-jar  in  a  moderate  oven,  or  on  a  cool  part  of  the  stove, 
and  cook  very  slowly  from  2  to  2^  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  it 
will  be  found  that  the  onions  have  yielded  an  abundance  of  gravy. 
If  a  homely  dish  is  desired,  serve  the  contents  of  the  stew-jar  in  their 
simple  form,  or  transfer  the  pieces  of  rabbit  to  a  stewpan,  strain  over 
them  the  gravy,  rub  the  onions  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  add  these 
to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  and  when  thoroughly  hot,  serve. 

Time. — From  2  to  2.\  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

1376.— RABBIT   STEWED    IN  MILK.       (Fr— Lapin 
au  lait.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  i  small  onion  very  finely-chopped,  a  small 
blade  of  mace,  i  pint  of  milk  (about),  salt  and  pepper,  i  teaspoonful  of 
cornflour. 

Method. — Wash  the  rabbit,  cut  it  into  neat  joints,  and  soak  and 
blanch  the  head  and  neck  in  strong  salted  water.  Pack  the  pieces 
closely  in  a  baking-dish  or  pie-dish,  sprinkle  over  them  the  onion,  season 
well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  mace.  Nearly  fill  the 
dish  with  milk,  cover  with  an  inverted  dish  or  piedish,  and  cook  in 
a  moderate  oven  from  i£  to  i£  hours.  About  10  minutes  before 
serving  mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil  up,  and 
add  it  to  the  contents  of  the  piedish  and  allow  to  cook  for  another  10 
minutes.  When  ready,  arrange  the  rabbit  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  strain 
the  sauce  over,  then  serve. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  8d.  Suffi- 
cient for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

1377.— RABBIT,  BROWN  STEW  OF.  (Fr.— Ragout  de 
Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  i  pint  of  stock,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of 


TINNED  MEAT. 


Jtfe 


i.     Spiced  Beef.         2.     Corned  Beef.         3.     Preserved  Ham. 


47 


PRESERVED  AND  TINNED  MEATS. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    HARE   AND    RABBIT        777 

flour,  2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,  i  bay-leaf,  salt  and  pepper,  small  rolls 
of  crisply-fried  bacon. 

Method. — Cut  up  the  rabbit,  fry  it  in  hot  butter,  removing  the  pieces 
as  soon  as  they  are  lightly  browned.  Fry  the  onions  and  flour  until 
well  browned,  add  the  stock,  herbs  and  seasoning,  stir  until  boiling, 
then  replace  the  rabbit,  cover,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  i  hour. 
Arrange  the  rabbit  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  over  the  sauce,  and  gar- 
nish with  the  bacon. 

Time. — From  ij  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd.  to  23.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

1378.— RABBIT,    WHITE    STEW    OF.     (Fr.— Lapin 
en  Blanquette.) 

Ingredients. —  i  young  rabbit,  $  of  a  pint  of  white  stock,  $  of  a  pint 
of  milk,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion  sliced,  i  or  2  strips  of 
celery  shredded,  i  blade  of  mace,  8  white  peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper. 
For  the  garni  tblespoonfuls  each  of  finely-shredded  carrot, 

onion  ami   turnip. 

Method.- -Wash  and  joint  the  rabbit,  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the 
stock  and  milk,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Add  the  onion,  previously 
blanched,  celery,  mace,  peppercorns  and  a  little  salt,  and  simmer 
gently  until  the  rabbit  is  tender.  Knead  the  flour  and  butter  to- 

:.  and  ad«!  -mall  pieces,  when  the  rabbit  is  three-qu 

cooked.  Serve  with  the  sauce  strained  over,  garnished  with  the 
vegetables,  previously  cooked  separa: 

Time. — From  i£  to  ij  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

1379.— RABBIT,     RAGOUT    OF.        (Fr.    Ragout    de 
Lapin.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  4  ozs.  of  streaky  bacon,  2  ozs.  of  butt< 
ozs.  of  flour,  i  onion  cut  into  dice,  i  carrot  cut  into  dice,  $  a  small 
turnip  cut  into  dice,  6  peppercorns,  salt  and  pepper,  i  pint  of  boiling 
stock  or  wat 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  rabbit  thoroughly,  and  cut  the  bacon 
into  i  inch  squares.     Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  rabbit 
until  the  entire  surface  is  nicely  browned,  then  remove  and  k 
hot.     Fry  the  onion  slightly,  put  in  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  slo\\lv 
until   well-browned,   and  add   the  stock  or  water.     Boil  gently  for 
10   minutes,   add  salt   to   taste,  put   in  the   carrot  and   the  turnip, 
and  the  bacon  and  peppercorns.     Replace  the  rabbit  in  the  st«  v 
cover  closely,  and  cook  very  gently  for  about  2  hours,  or  until  the 
rabbit  r.     Serve  on  a  hot  dish,  with  the  sauce  strained  over, 


7;8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

and  garnished  with  the  dice  of  turnip  and  carrot,  which  should  be 
previously   boiled   separately. 

Time. — About  2\  hours.  Average  Coti,  is.  8d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

1380.— RABBIT,  TURBAN  OF. 

Ingredients. — 2  rabbits,  larding  bacon,  i  oz.  of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of  flour, 
i  egg,  \  a  gill  of  stock  or  water,  pepper  and  salt,  glaze,  brown  sauce 
(see  Sauces,  No.  233.)- 

Method. — Separate  the  fleshfrom  the  bones  (see  Rabbit  Cutlets,  No.  1360, 
and  Rabbit,  Fillets  Of,  No.  1361),  divide  the  back  into  pieces  of  even 
size,  and  lard  them  neatly.  Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  tho 
stock,  cook  until  the  mixture  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan,  then  put  it 
aside  to  cool.  Chop  the  remainder  of  the  flesh  finely,  or  pass  it  2  or  3 
times  through  a  mincing  machine,  and  afterwards  pound  it  until 
smooth.  Work  in  the  panada,  add  the  egg  and  seasoning  to  taste, 
and  when  well  mixed  pass  through  a  fine  wire  sieve.  Press  the  mixture 
lightly  into  a  well-buttered  border  or  turban  mould,and  steam  until  firm. 
Meanwhile,  the  fillets  should  have  been  braised  and  glazed  according 
to  directions  given  in  Rabbits,  Fillets  Of.  Now  arrange  them 
neatly  within  the  shape,  pour  the  sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  fillets,  about  i  hour.  To  steam  the  turban, 
about  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  35.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 


TINNED  AND  PRESERVED 

FOODS. 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

General  Remarks  on  the  various   Foods,  Instructions 
for  opening  tins  and  serving,  etc. 

The  Nutritive  Value  of  Tinned  Meat  is  less  than  that  of  fresh  meat, 
and  it  is  somewhat  insipid  owing  to  the  loss  of  the  osmasomc,  which 
gives  to  meat  its  agreeable  flavour.  In  consequence  of  this,  and 
because  when  it  is  overcooked  the  fibres  become  tough,  a  compara- 
tively small  proportion  may  be  digested  and  assimilated,  and  so  it  is 
less  s.  than  an  equal  amount  of  fresh  meat.  Tinned  goods 

of  nearly  every  description  are  more  or  less  cooked,  the  time  v. 
from   five   minutes   to   an   hour.     Tinned   food   is   a    valuable    sub- 
stitute for  salt  meat  on  board  ship  and  elsewhere,  and  is  esp< 
useful  to  persons  removed  from  the  general  sources  of  supply. 

Tins  containing  meat  are  placed  in  a  vessel  and  surrou 
by  a  strong  solution  of  common  salt,  which  is  heated  to  a  tem- 
perature of  230°  to  260°  F.  The  top  of  each  tin  is  securely  soldered, 
and  provided  with  a  small  hole  through  which  the  air  and  some  of 
the  steam  escapes.  As  soon  as  the  air  is  exhausted  the  aperture  is 
immediately  closed  with  a  drop  of  solder,  thus  hermetically  s 

i.  and  preserving  all  the  essential  elements  of  the  meat.     If  any 
air  remains,  fermentation  may  ensue  :    a  bulging  tin  indicates  this 
condition.     In  all  tinned  foods  there  is  a  danger  that  small  lumps  of 
solder,  used  in  sealing  the  tin.  may  fall  inside,  and  be  accidentally 
swallowed  with  the  meat.      In  turning  out  a  tin  they  should  be  looK 
in  the  sediment  at  the  bottom  and  removed.    The  danger  is  freqt; 
obviated  by  the  manufacturer  leaving  a  small  projection  of  tin  under- 
neath the  hole  to  catch  the  solder. 

Tinned  Goods  to  be  Stored  in  a  Cool  Place. — They  can  then  be  turned 
out  easily  and  sliced  mor  ;  ger  end  of  the  tin  should  be 

cut  away,  and  a  small  hole  made  in   the  opposite  end  to  adnr 
which,  by  its  pressure,  enables  the  meat  to  slip  out   easily.     Great 
care  is  needed  in  opening  tinn<  and  poultry. 

To   Re-heat  Tinned   Meat,  etc. — The   tin   containing   r  :ic  or 

jxmltry  should  be  immersed  in   lx  ilinij  water  until  its  conten: 

then  oj>- 
whole,  but  better  cut  tip  and  cooked  gently  in  a  good  sauce, 


780  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

which  should  be  highly  seasoned  and  flavoured  to  counteract  the 
insipidity  which  very  often  characterizes  tinned  foods.  Birds,  in- 
tended to  be  served  cold  should  be  taken  out  of  the  tin  very  carefully, 
well-dried  and  glazed.  Breasts  and  wings  of  tinned  birds  are,  as  a 
rule,  quite  tender,  but  the  legs  are  usually  hard  and  tough,  and  should 
be  converted  into  rissoles  or  croquettes  and  disposed  of  with  as  little 
delay  as  possible.  Tinned  foods  of  this  description  soon  become 
unfit  for  use. 

Tinned  Fish. — Salmon,  lobster,  oysters,  prawns,  sardines,  anchovies, 
herrings  and  red  mullet  are  the  chief  varieties  of  tinned  fish.  A  good 
brand  of  the  two  first-named,  if  well  drained,  may  be  used  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  fresh  fish  in  many  fish  entrees  and  salads,  thus  materially 
reducing  their  cost.  Tinned  oysters  should  not  be  served  "  au  naturel," 
but  they  answer  very  well  for  soup,  sauce  and  forcemeat.  A  good 
brand  of  prawns  may  be  used  for  a  curry. 

Tinned  and  Bottled  Soups. — Among  the  best  may  be  mentioned  :  gravy, 
mock  turtle,  oxtail,  tomato,  turtle  and  other  thick  soups  ;  the  thin 
soups  are  less  satisfactory.  In  an  emergency  tinned  soups  are  in- 
valuable, as  they  only  require  warming  and  a  little  additional  flavour- 
ing and  seasoning.  Generally  they  may  be  diluted  by  rinsing  out  the 
tin  or  bottle  with  a  small  quantity  of  hot  water. 

Tinned  or  Bottled  Vegetables  are  used  extensively,  and  form  an  excellent 
substitute  for  fresh  vegetables.  To  obtain  satisfactory  results,  the 
method  of  warming  should  be  adapted  to  the  vegetable.  A  tin  con- 
taining asparagus  should  be  immersed  in  boiling  water  for  about 
ten  minutes  and  afterwards  carefully  opened,  and  its  contents 
allowed  to  slide  gently  on  to  a  drainer  or  a  slice  of  toast.  Peas,  flageo- 
lets, lima  beans  and  haricots  verts  should  be  well  rinsed  and  afterwards 
immersed  in  cold  water  for  a  short  time,  well  drained,  and  cooked 
for  a  few  minutes  in  boiling  water.  Salt  to  taste  should  be  added  ; 
a  little  fresh  mint  and  a  good  pinch  of  sugar  will  greatly  improve  the 
flavour  of  peas.  A  little  butter  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper  should  be  added  to  spinach,  while  tomatoes  should  be  well 
drained,  heated  and  seasoned  to  taste.  Vegetables  are  also  preserved 
in  bottles. 

Tinned  and  Bottled  Fruits  of  all  kinds  should  be  emptied  into 
a  glass  or  porcelain  dish  several  hours  before  being  served,  and,  when 
possible,  chilled  in  a  refrigerator.  Unsweetened  bottled  fruit  will 
be  found  an  excellent  substitute  for  fresh  fruit. 

Other  Methods  of  Preserving  Meat. — There  are,  of  course,  other  means 
of  preserving  meat  than  by  tinning  it.  Much  of  the  fresh  meat 
is  spoken  of  as  "  frozen "  meat,  and  it  is  actually  frozen  as 
hard  as  a  board  directly  it  is  killed,  and  in  that  state  carried  to  the 
coast  and  put  on  board  ships  fitted  with  refrigerating  chambers,  where 
the  air  is  maintained  at  a  temperature  just  below  freezing  point, 
experience  having  shown  that  meat  is  better  preserved  by  this 


TINNED    AND   PRESERVED    FOODS  781 

method  than  if  kept  below  32°  F.  On  its  arrival  in  England  it  is 
transferred  to  similar  store-houses  on  land.  So  long  as  the  heat  does 
not  rise  above  a  certain  point  it  is  preserved,  but,  like  the  fish  taken 
from  the  slab  of  ice  used  by  the  fishmongers,  it  very  soon  goes  bad 
at  the  ordinary  temperature.  This  method  of  preserving  meat  is 
merely  a  larger  application  of  the  common  practice  of  storing  meat  in  an 
ice-chamber  or  refrigerator.  Neither  meat  nor  any  other  food  can  putrefy 
without  some  air,  some  moisture,  and  a  certain  degree  of  heat.  From 
the  tins  all  the  air  is  excluded,  and  so  whatever  the  temperature  of  the 
tin,  after  once  it  is  sealed  the  meat  remains  sweet.  It  maybe 
carried  to  the  tropics,  or  stand  in  the  hottest  cupboard  in  the  house, 
with  the  same  satisfactory  result.  A  few  years  ago  some  bodies  of 
the  extinct  mammoth  were  found  in  Siberia  buried  in  the  ice,  but 
although  they  had  lain  there  for  so  long  a  period,  they  were  as  well 
preserved  as  if  the  animals  had  only  died  the  day  before. 

Dried  Meat. — Both  animal  and  vegetable  food  is  also  preserved  \>y  dry- 
ing. Fish  is  constantly  smoked  and  dried,  and  thus  prepared,  forms  a 
large  part  of  the  food  of  our  town  poor.  Beef  and  other  meat  is  cut 
in  slices,  and  dried  in  the  sun  and  wind  in  countries  where  the  heat  of  the 
sun  is  more  powerful  than  in  our  own  land.  Pemmican  is  dried  meat 
reduced  to  powder  and  mixed  \sith  fat,  but  even  that  is  now  much  less 
used  than  formerly  ;  and  in  general  it  may  be  said  that  drying  as  a 
means  of  preserving  meat  has  been  superseded  by  more  modern  and 
improved  methods. 

Salt  Meat.  -Salt  and  saltpetre  are  the  antiseptics  most  commonly 
used  in  the  preservation  of  food,  and  their  use  for  this  purpose  dates 
from  long  ago.  Centuries  back,  even  in  the  more  favoured  districts 
of  the  south  of  England,  there  was  no  food  to  keep  the  cattle  all  the 
winter,  for  the  grass  was  scanty,  and  turnips  were  then  unknown.  In 
the  autumn  everyone  killed  the  cattle  and  salted  the  meat  down  for 
home  consumption  through  the  coming  months.  Fresh  meat,  winter 
and  summer  alike,  was  a  luxury  which  no  one  could  have,  and  no  one 
expected. 

1 1  is  not  to  be  regretted  if  salt  meat  is  driven  away  from  our  markets 
by  fresh,  for  salt  draws  the  juice  out  of  the  meat  with  all  its  soluble 
constituents,  and  at  the  same  time  hardens  the  fibre  of  the  meat 
itself,  and  so  makes  it  less  digestible.  The  brine  in  which  several 
pieces  of  meat  have  been  pickled  will  almost  set  into  a  jelly,  so  much 
of  the  valuable  juices  has  it  extracted  from  the  meat,  and  all  thes 
of  course,  wasted.  It  is  said  that  a  third  of  the  meat,  or  even  a  greater 
proportion,  is  lost  by  salting.  The  salt  can  be  drawn  out  of  the  meat 
by  soaking  it  in  water,  but  nothing  can  restore  to  it  what  it  has  lost. 
Every  one  knows  that  salted  food  cannot  be  used  for  any  length  of 
time  without  injury  to  the  health.  Its  smallest  drawback  is — and 
Miallcst  is  con  —that  it  naturally  encourages  thirst, 

and  it  is  allowed  that  all  animals  thrive  better  on  moist  foods  than  on 


782  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

dry  foods  and  water.  The  worst  is  that  salted  meat  has  lost 
those  saline  constituents  that  are  not  readily  supplied  except  in 
fresh  fruits  and  vegetables,  precisely  those  foods  that  are  rarest 
wherever  salt  meat  is  most  likely  to  be  used,  in  large  towns,  cold 
countries,  during  the  winter  season,  or  at  sea.  Sailors  at  sea  get 
rations  of  lime-juice  when  their  supply  of  vegetables  brought  from  shore 
comes  to  an  end,  not  to  counteract  the  effects  of  the  salt,  as  some 
suppose,  but  to  furnish  in  another  form  what  the  brine  has  taken 
away.  In  Norway,  salt  food  and  scurvy  are  alike  common. 

Smoked  Meat. — Smoking  meat  and  fish  greatly  increases  its  power 
of  keeping.  Creosote  is  an  excellent  antiseptic,  and  is  sold  to  paint 
over  meat  as  a  substitute  for  the  lengthy  and  troublesome  process  of 
smoking.  Borax  is  also  used  as  a  preservative. 


RECIPES    FOR    TINNED 
AND     PRESERVED     FOODS 

CHAPTER    XXVIII 

Soup,    fish,    meat,    poultry,    and   sweets. 

Soup. 

1381.— BROWN  SOUP  FROM  TINNED  MUTTON. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  tinned  mutton,  2  quarts  of  boiling  water,  i 
medium  onion  sliced,  i  small  carrot  sliced,  £  a  small  turnip  sliced, 
a  bouquet  garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of 
flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Turn  the  meat  out  of  the  tin  into  i  quart  of  boiling  water, 
let  it  remain  until  quite  cold,  and  remove  the  fat.  Empty  the  con- 
tents of  the  basin  into  a  stewpan,  add  another  quart  of  boiling  water, 
boil  up,  and  put  in  the  vegetables,  herbs,  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Cook  gently  lor  i  hour,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  wire  sieve. 
Heat  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  cook  gently  and  stir  occasionally  until 
a  good  brown  colour  is  obtained,  then  replace  the  puree  and  liquor. 
Boil  up,  season  to  taste,  and  serve.  Beef  essence,  sherry,  ketchup  and 
many  other  things  may  be  added  to  enrich  the  soup  and  improve  its 
flavour. 

Time. — 2  hours  after  the  fat  has  been  removed.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1382.— MOCK  TURTLE  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — £  a  tin  of  calf's  head,  2  ozs.  of  ham,  cut  into  dice,  i 
medium-sized  onion  sliced,  i  small  carrot  sliced,  i  or  2  strips  of  celery, 
a  bouquet  garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay  leaf),  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs. 
of  flour,  sherry,  lemon- juice,  forcemeat  balls  (see  Forcemeats), 
salt  and  pepper,  5  pints  of  boiling  stock  or  water. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  large  stewpan,  fry  the  ham  and  \ 
bles  until  lightly  browned,  and  sprinkle  in  the  flour.     Let  the  ingredi- 


784  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

ents  cook  slowly  until  well  browned,  and  meanwhile  drain  the  calf's 
head,  add  the  liquor  to  the  stock  or  water,  and  cut  the  meat  into  neat 
pieces.  Pour  the  boiling  stock  or  water  over  the  browned  vegetables, 
boil  up,  skim  well,  and,  when  the  vegetables  are  tender,  pass  the  whole 
through  a  fine  sieve  or  tammy.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  bring  to  the 
boil,  season,  add  sherry  and  lemon-juice  to  taste,  put  in  the  prepared 
meat  and  forcemeat  balls,  and  serve  when  thoroughly  hot. 

Time. — From  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.,  exclusive  of  the 
sherry.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

1383.— OX-TAIL  SOUP.      (See  Mock  Turtle  Soup.    No. 
1382.) 

Omit  the  forcemeat  balls  and  lemon- juice,  and  substitute  a  tin  of 
ox-tail  for  the  £  tin  of  calf's  head. 

1384.— WHITE  SOUP  FROM  TINNED  RABBIT. 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  rabbit,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  2  small 
onions  sliced,  i  small  carrot  sliced,  2  or  3  slices  of  turnip,  a  bouquet 
garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  3  pints  of  hot  water,  i  pint  of  milk, 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  (this  may  be  omitted),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Place  the  whole  contents  of  the  tin  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
water  and,  when  boiling,  put  in  the  vegetables  and  herbs,  with  a  little 
salt  and  pepper.  Simmer  gently  for  about  i  hour,  then  pass  the 
rabbit  and  the  liquor  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  and  return  to  the  stew- 
pan. Boil  up,  add  the  milk,  the  butter  and  flour,  previously  mixed 
smoothly  together  and  divided  into  small  pieces,  with  seasoning  to 
taste.  Make  thoroughly  hot,  and  stir  in  the  cream  just  before  serving. 
The  soup  may  be  garnished  with  shredded  vegetables,  macaroni, 
spagheti,  etc. 

Time. — About  if-  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

Fish: 

1385.— LOBSTER  CURRY. 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  lobster,  £  a  pint  of  curry  sauce  (see  Sauces, 
No. -241). 

Method. — Thoroughly  drain  the  lobster,  and  divide  it  into  rather 
small  neat  pieces.  Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  put  in  the  prepared 
lobster,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve.  Well  boiled  rice  and  sliced 
lemon  should  be  served  with  this  dish. 

Time. — 10  minutes,  after  the  sauce  is  made.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d. 
to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1386.— LOBSTER  IN  WHITE  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  lobster,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces, 
No.  221),  puff  paste  trimmings,  breadcrumbs,  butter,  salt  and  pepper, 
cayenne. 


RECIPES    FOR  TINNED    FOODS  785 

Method. — Thoroughly  drain  the  lobster,  and  divide  it  into  large 
flakes.  Put  a  border  of  puff  paste  round  a  pie  dish,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven.  Make  the  sauce  as  directed.  Place  the  lobster  in  the 
pie-dish,  sprinkling  each  layer  liberally  with  pepper  and  very  spar- 
ingly with  cayenne,  add  the  white  sauce,  and  cover  rather  thickly  with 
breadcrumbs.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  few  small  pieces  of 
butter,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  the  surface  is  browned. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.,  exclusive  of 
the  paste.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

1387.— LOBSTER,  POTTED. 

Ingredients. — Tinned  lobster,  butter,  anchovy  sauce,  cayenne. 

Method. — Drain  and  pound  the  lobster  to  a  paste,  adding  sufficient 
butter  and  anchovy  sauce  to  moisten  it.  Season  highly  with  cayenne, 
if  available,  pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve,  press  it  into  small 
pots,  and  cover  it  with  clarified  butter. 

Time. — About  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  5d.  when 
the  whole  tin  is  used.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  pots. 

1388.— PRAWNS,  CURRIED. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  prawns,  J-  of  a  pint  of  curry  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No  241),  well-boiled  rice,  lemon-juice. 

Method.— Make  the  sauce  as  directed  (tinned  curry  sauce  m 
substituted,  or  the  prawns  may  be  obtained  ready  curried),  put  in  the 
prawns,  make  thoroughly  hot,  add  lemon-juice  to  taste,  and  serve 
in  a  border  of  rice,  or  hand  the  rice  separately. 

Time. — 10  minutes,  after  the  sauce  is  made.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d. 
to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1389.— SALMON  KEDGEREE. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  salmon  (about  £  a  lb.),  4  ozs.  of  well-boiled 
rice,  i  oz.  of  butter,  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  grated 
nutmeg. 

Method.— Divide  the  fish  into  rather  large  flakes.     Heat  the  butter 
in  a  stcwpan,  put  in  the  rice,  make  it  thoroughly  hot,  season  to 
and  add  the  fish.     Stir  very  gently  over  the  fire  for  3  or  4  minuUs, 
and  serve  piled  on  a  hot  dish.     One  or  two  hard-boiled  eggs  coarsely 
chopped  are  sometimes  added  to  the  above  ingredients. 

Time. — £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons, 

1390.— SALMON  SCALLOPED. 

Ingredients.— i  tin  of  salmon,  breadcrumbs,  white  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No.  221 ),  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  grated  cheese. 


786  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Divide  the  salmon  into  rather  large  flakes.  Butter  as  many 
scallop  shells  as  are  required  rather  thickly  with  butter,  and  sprinkle 
them  lightly  with  breadcrumbs.  Nearly  fill  them  with  salmon,  add 

1  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sauce,  and  cover  the  surface  with  breadcrumbs. 
Sprinkle  lightly  with  cheese,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  add 

2  or  3  small  pieces  of  butter.     Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  nicely 
browned,  and  serve. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.,  when  the  whole  tin 
is  used.  Allow  i  to  each  person. 

1391.— SALMON,  POTTED.     (See  Lobster  Potted.     No. 

1387.) 
1392.— SARDINE  PASTIES. 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  sardines,  short  crust  or  rough  puff  paste,  or 
puff  paste  trimmings,  i  egg. 

Method. — Skin  the  sardines,  take  away  the  backbone,  and  replace 
the  two  halves.  Roll  out  the  paste  as  thinly  as  possible,  cut  it  into 
strips  about  4  in.  by  2  in.,  and  in  each  strip  enclose  a  sardine,  leaving 
the  ends  open.  Brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  bake  in  a  quick  oven, 
and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  bake  the  pasties,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to 
is.  4d.  per  tin.  Allow  i  to  each  person,  when  served  as  a  savoury. 

I393-— SARDINES  POTTED. 

Ingredients. — Sardines,  butter,  cayenne. 

Method. — From  each  sardine  remove  the  skin  and  backbone.  Pound 
to  a  paste,  adding  butter  as  required,  and  season  highly  with  cayenne. 
Pass  through  a  hair  sieve,  press  into  small  pots,  and  cover  with  clarified 
butter. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  4d.  per  tin.  Suffi- 
cient, i  tin  for  2  or  3  small  pots. 

Meat,   Poultry,   &c. 

1394.— BEEF  COLLOPS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  Australian  beef,  2  ozs.  of  butter  or  dripping, 
i  onion,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  lemon,  i  teaspoonful  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method . — Mince  the  beef  finely,  put  the  butter  or  dripping  into  a 
stewpan.  Add  the  onion  (chopped  finely)  and  fry  till  it  is  nicely 
browned.  Add  the  juice  of  the  lemon,  the  stock,  ketchup  and  season- 
ing, simmer  for  5  minutes,  then  add  the  meat,  simmer  for  5  minutes 
longer,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  border  of  mashed  potatoes  or  rice. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 


RECIPES    FOR    TINNED    FOODS  787 

1395.— BEEF  OR  MUTTON  CURRY. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  beef  or  mutton,  i  oz.  of  butter  or  dripping,  I 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  curry-powder,  i  onion  sliced, 

1  apple  sliced  (an  equal  amount  of  gooseberries  or  rhubarb  may  be 
substituted),  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  salt, 
4  ozs.  of  cooked  rice. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces  and  boil  down  any  jelly 
or  trimmings  for  gravy.  Heat  the  butter  or  dripping  in  a  stewpan, 
fry  the  onion  until  brown,  put  in  the  flour  and  curry-powder,  stir  and 
cook  for  5  minutes,  then  add  the  apple  and  stock,  and  stir  until  the 
ingredients  boil.  Cover  closely  and  simmer  for  about  30  minutes, 
then  strain  and  return  to  the  stewpan.  Bring  nearly  to  boiling  point, 
add  the  lemon- juice,  season  to  taste,  and  put  in  the  meat.  Draw  the 
saucepan  to  the  side  of  the  stove,  and  let  the  meat  remain  in  the  hot 
sauce  for  about  20  minutes,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Serve  in  a 
border  of  boiled  rice. 

Time. — About  i  hour.    Average  Cost,  lod.    Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1396.— BEEF  ROLL. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  tinned  roast  beef,  coarsely  chopped,  $  a  Ib.  of 

cooked  bacon,  cut  into  small  dice,   i   teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 

y,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

2  eggs. 

Method.— Mix  the  meat,  bacon,  parsley,  herbs  and  a  good  seasoning 
of  salt  and  pepper  well  together,  and  moisten  gradually  with  beaten 
egg.  Shape  into  a  roll,  brush  over  with  egg,  and  bake  gently  for  about 
i  hour. 

Time. — About  ij  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

1397.— BEEF,  BROILED,  AND  MUSHROOMS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  tinned  roast  beef,  12  preserved  mushrooms, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  J  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  salt  and 
pePI 

Method. — Slice  the  mushrooms,  fry  them  lightly  in  hot  butter,  and 

sprinkle  in  the  flour.     Cook  until  nicely  browned,  add  the  stock  or 

.  season  to  taste,  stir  until  boiling,  and  afterwards  simmer  gently 

for  about  £  an  hour.       Slice  the  meat,  coat  each  slice  lightly  with  oil 

or  oiled  butter,  and  broil  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire.     Serve  with 

a  little  sauce  and  all  the  mushrooms  round  the  dish,   and   put  the 

nulerof  the  sauce  in  a  sauce  boat. 

Time.— About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons. 


788  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1398.— BEEF-TEA  CUSTARD. 

Ingredients. — Beef  essence,  i  egg,  £  of  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Make  a  stock  of  required  strength  with  beef  essence  and 
water.  Beat  the  egg  well,  then  add  the  stock,  and  season  to  taste. 
Turn  into  a  buttered  cup,  place  in  a  saucepan,  surround  with  boiling 
water,  and  cook  very  gently  until  the  custard  is  set  firmly. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  4d.  or  5d.  Sufficient  for  i 
person. 

1399.— CORNISH  PASTIES. 

Ingredients. — For  the  pastry  :  8  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  fat,  i  teaspoon- 
ful  of  baking  powder,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt.  For  the  mixture  :  £  of 
alb.  of  beef,  Jib.  of  potato  (parboiled),  \  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  (par- 
boiled and  finely  chopped),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  gravy  or  water,  mixed 
herbs,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  and  potatoes  into  dice,  add  the  onion,  herbs, 
salt,  pepper  and  gravy,  and  mix  well  together.  Mix  the  flour,  baking 
powder  and  salt  together,  rub  in  the  fat,  lightly,  add  the  water,  being 
careful  not  to  make  the  paste  too  moist.  Divide  the  paste  into  8  equal 
portions,  and  roll  them  out,  keeping  the  portions  as  round  as  possible. 
Pile  the  mixture  in  the  centre  of  each  piece  of  pastry,  wet  the  edges 
and  join  them  together  on  the  top  to  form  an  upstanding  frill,  prick 
them  2  or  3  times  with  a  fork,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  \ 
an  hour. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

1400.— CROUTES  OF  MEAT. 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  beef  coarsely-chopped,  4  squares  of 
stale  bread,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
gravy  or  water,  i  teaspoonful  of  Worcester  or  other  sauce;  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  crust  and  tiim  the  bread  into  shape.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  fry  the  bread  until  brown,  then  remove 
and  keep  hot.  Brown  the  flour  in  the  butter,  add  the  gravy  or  water, 
salt,  pepper,  Worcester  sauce,  and  when  boiling  draw  aside.  When 
the  sauce  has  cooled  slightly,  stir  in  the  meat,  let  it  become  thoroughly 
hot,  then  pile  on  the  croutes  of  bread,  and  serve  at  once. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

1401.— CALF'S  HEAD. 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  calf's  head,  frying-batter,  tomato,  piquant 
or  other  suitable  sauce  (see  Sauces,  Nos.  265,  282),  frying-fat. 


RECIPES    FOR   TINNED    FOODS  789 

Method. — Slice  the  head  neatly,  dip  each  slice  into  the  prepared 
batter,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  nicely  browned.  Serve  the 
sauce  separately. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour,  after  the  batter  is  made.  Average  Cost, 
is.  4d.,  exclusive  of  the  sauce.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1402.— FOWL  ROASTED. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  roast  fowl,  2  or  3  rashers  of  bacon,  gravy, 
bread  sauce  (see  Sauces),  drip]  ; 

Method. — Immerse  the  tin  containing  the  fowl  in  boiling  water, 
let  it  become  thoroughly  hot,  then  open  the  tin  and  remove  the  bird 
carefully.  Cover  the  breast  with  rashers  of  bacon,  baste  well  with  hot 
dripping,  and  cook  in  a  brisk  oven  for  15  to  20  minutes.  Serve  the 
bread  sauce  and  gravy  separately. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  39,  64.  Sufficient  for  4  or 
5  persons. 

1403.— GAME,  SALMI  OF. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  partridge  or  pheasant,  $  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce 
(see  Sauce  ;),  i  glass  of  port,  salt  and  pepp  onions. 

Method. ---Divide  the  j^ame  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving  (the 
trimmings  and  jelly  will  provide  the  stock  for  the  brown  sauce).  Make 
the  sauce  as  direct eil.  add  to  it  the  game,  wine  and  seasoning  to 
and,   when   thoroughly   hot,   serve   garnished   with  croutons  of  fried 
bread. 

Time. — About  |  an  hour,  aftei  the  sauce  is  made.  Average  Cost, 
2S.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  persons, 

1404.— GROUSE,  ROAST. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  roast  grouse,  fried  potatoes,  good  gravy,  butter 
or  dripping. 

Method. — Let  the  tin  stand  in  hot  water  until  the  bird  is  thoroughly 
heated,  then  take  it  cm!  n  and  transfer  it  to  a  baking  tin  con- 

taining some  hot  butter  or  dripping.  Baste  it  wrll.  cook  in  a  brisk 
oven  for  15  or  20  minutes,  and  serve  with  potato  straws  or  chips  and 
good  gra 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  35.  od.  Sufficient  for  2 
or  4  persons. 

1405.— HARE,  JUGGED. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  jugged  hare,  i  glass  of  port  wine,  red  currant 
jolly,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Let  the  tin  remain  im mcrsed  in  hot  water  until  its  con- 


7QO  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

tents  are  thoroughly  heated,  then  turn  out  into  a  stew-pan,  add  the 
wine,  and  seasoning  if  necessary,  heat  up  again  and  dish  up  neatly, 
and  serve.  The  red  currant  jelly  may  be  served  separately. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  2s.     Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

1406.— HARICOT  OF  BEEF. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  haricot  beans,  i  Ib.  tin  of  beef,  i£  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  onions,  \  a  pint  of  stock,  i  carrot,  i  turnip,  i  tablespoonful 
of  Harvey's  sauce,  pepper  and  salt,  flour,  ground  rice. 

Method. — Soak  the  beans  overnight,  drain  them  and  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  2  quarts  of  water  and  boil  for  2  hours,  or  until  they 
are  thoroughly  tender,  drain  and  put  them  to  dry  beside  the  fire 
with  the  saucepan  lid  slightly  raised,  then  put  in  \  an  oz.  of  butter, 
pepper  and  salt.  In  another  saucepan  prepare  a  sauce  as  follows  : 
put  i  oz.  of  butter  in  the  pan  and  fry  the  sliced  onions  to  a  nice  brown, 
cut  up  the  turnip  and  carrot,  add  them,  and  mix  the  stock  smoothly 
with  i  tablespoonful  of  ground  rice  and  flour,  place  the  stock  in  the 
saucepan,  add  the  Harvey's  sauce  and  simmer  for  £  an  hour.  Empty 
the  tin  of  beef,  cut  the  meat  into  neat  squares,  roll  these  in  flour  and 
put  them  into  the  sauce  to  simmer  for  5  minutes.  Dish  with  the  meat 
and  gravy  in  the  centre  and  the  beans  in  a  border  round. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d.     Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

1407.— HARICOT  MUTTON. 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  boiled  mutton,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  \\  ozs.  of  flour, 
2  or  3  small  onions  sliced,  i  small  carrot  sliced,  2  or  3  slices  of  turnip 
cut  into  strips,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom  ketchup,  or  seme 
sharp  sauce,  salt  and  pepper,  £  of  a  pint  of  boiling  stock  or  water. 

Method. — Slice  the  meat  ralher  thinly,  putting  all  the  jelly  into  the 
stock  or  water,  and  rejecting  the  fat.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
fry  the  vegetables  slightly,  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  and  cook  gently. 
When  well  browned  put  in  the  stock  or  water,  stir  until  boiling,  simmer 
gently  until  the  vegetables  are  tender,  and  add  the  meat.  Season  to 
taste,  add  ketchup  or  other  sauce,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons. 

1408.— IRISH  STEW. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  Australian  mutton,  2  large  onions,  2  Ibs.  of  pota- 
toes, |  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving  ;  cut 
the  potatoes  into  thick  slices,  and  the  onions  into  very  thin  slices.  Take 
a  saucepan  with  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  in  it  place  the  potato  and  onion 
in  alternate  layers  ;  sprinkle  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour 
in  the  stock,  and  cook  the  ingredients  very  gently  for  about  i£  hours. 


RECIPES    FOR    TINNED    FOODS  791 

By  this  time  the  potato  and  onion  should  be  cooked,  and  as  the  meat 
requires  no  further  cooking,  but  simply  heating,  it  should  be  put  into 
the  saucepan  and  well  mixed  with  the  onion  and  potato,  and  served 
as  soon  as  it  has  become  thoroughly  hot. 

Time. — About  ij  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1409.— IRISH  STEW.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  boiled  mutton  sliced,  2  Ibs.  of  potatoes  sliced, 
4  large  onions  thinly  sliced,  salt  and  pepper,  stock  or  water. 

Method. — Place  the  sliced  potato  and  onion  in  alternate  layers  in  a 
stewpan,  stewjar,  or  pie-dish,  seasoning  each  layer  liberally  with  salt 
and  pc-ppcr,  add  a  little  stock  or  water,  cover  closely,  cook  gently  until 
nearly  done,  then  stir  in  the  slices  of  meat.  When  thoroughly  hot, 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

1410.— KEBOBS. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  tinned  meat,  I  medium- sized  onion  finely 
chopped,  i  dessertspoonful  of  curry  powder,  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper, 
flour,  dripping. 

Method. — Mince  the  meat  finely,  stir  in  the  onion,  curry  powder, 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  the  ci»g.  Form  into  small  balls  or  flat 
cakes,  roll  lightly  in  flour,  and  fry  in  hot  dripping  until  nicely 
browned.  Plainly  boiled  rice  and  chutney  usually  accompany  this 

dish. 

Time. — About  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

1411.— KIDNEYS,  CURRIED. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  stewed  kidneys,  i  tin  of  devilled  ham,  $  of  a 
pint  of  curry  sauce  (see  S  >o.  241),  or  use  a  small  tin  of  curry 

sauce,  croutcs  of  toasted  bread. 

Method. — Heat  the  kidneys  in  the  curry  sauce,  and  meanwhile  prr- 

croutesof  toasted  bread,  and  spread  them  thickly  with  devilled 

ham  (a  rasher  of  bacon  or  potted  ham  may  be  substituted).     Serve 

th«-  kidneys  on  the  toast,  and,  if  liked,  the  dish  may  be  accompanied 

by  chutney. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  8  persons. 

1412.— LAMB'S  SWEETBREADS. 

Ingredients.— i   tin  of  lamb's  s\\  •!:?,   i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  fry- 

ing-fat,  brown  sauce  (sec  Sau«  ^3). 


792  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Drain  and  dry  the  sweetbreads,  and  divide  them  into 
neat  pieces.  Coat  them  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  fry 
in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  brown,  and  serve  piled  on  a  hot  dish.  Send 
the  sauce  to  table  in  a  sauce  boat. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  23.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1413.— MEAT  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  beef,  £  a  Ib.  of  mashed  potato,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  either  gravy  or  milk,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  salt  and 
pepper,  browned  breadcrumbs,  i  egg. 

Method. — Remove  all  the  fat  and  chop  the  meat  finely.  Heat  the 
milk  or  gravy  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  meat,  potato,  herbs,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  stir  briskly  over  the  fire  for  about  10  minutes  ;  if  the 
mixture  is  too  stiff  to  hold  together  a  little  more  gravy  or  milk  must 
be  added.  Spread  the  mixture  on  a  plate  ;  when  cold,  divide  it  into 
6  or  8  portions,  form  these  into  round  cakes,  brush  them  over  with 
egg  (a  little  milk  may  be  used  instead),  and  sprinkle  with  browned  bread- 
crumbs. Place  the  cakes  in  a  greased  baking-tin,  put  small  pieces  of 
fat  on  the  top  of  each  cake  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
15  minutes.  The  cakes  may  also  be  brushed  over  with  egg,  covered 
with  white  breadcrumbs,  and  fried  in  hot  fat. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.     Sufficient  for  3  persons. 

1414.— MEAT  AND  EGG  TOAST. 

Ingredients. — Slices  of  bread,  remains  of  cold  meat,  2  eggs,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  tomato  sauce, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  some  rounds  of  bread  and  fry  them,  or  toast  and 
butter  them.  Mince  finely  any  small  pieces  of  tongue,  or  corned 
or  fresh  beef.  Put  in  a  saucepan  2  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  2  tablespoonf uls  of  milk.  When  the  eggs  begin  to  thicken 
add  the  meat,  and,  if  possible,  a  tablespoonful  of  tomato  sauce.  Stir 
the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  is  as  thick  as  cream,  pour  it  over  the 
toast,  and  serve  at  once. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  meat. 
Sufficient  for  3  persons. 

1415.— MEAT  AND  MACARONI. 

Ingredients. — \  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  2  Ibs.  of  tinned  meat,  i  oz.  of 
butter  or  dripping,  i  small  onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful 
of  ketchup  or  other  sauce,  \  a  pint  of  stock  or  gravy. 

Method. — Put  the  macaroni  into  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover 
it  and  cook  till  tender,  then  cut  into  short  lengths  and  keep  hot.  Re- 


PRESERVED  FOODS :  TINNED  AND  BOTTLED. 


VEGETABLES. 


Onions,  Shallots,  Spanish  Onions,  Turnips,  Cauliflower,  Colletts,  Marrow,  Savoy, 
Asparagus,  Haricot  Beans. 


RECIPES    FOR   TINNED    FOODS  793 

move  any  jelly  .or  gristle  from  the  meat,  and  put  it,  together  with  any 
bones,  trimmings  of  meat,  ham,  or  bacon  into  a  saucepan  with 
rather  more  than  £a  pint  of  cold  water,  and  simmer  at  least  i  hour. 
Cut  the  meat  into  small  slices,  and  the  onions  into  dice.  Melt 
the  butter  or  fat  in  a  stewpan  or  frying-pan,  fry  the  onion 
until  brown,  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  cook  for  about  10  minutes,  add  the 
gravy  and  sauce  and  stir  until  boiling.  Put  in  the  meat,  baste  it  well 
with  the  gravy,  and  when  quite  hot,  serve  on  a  dish  with  the  macaroni 
arranged  as  a  border. 

Time. — About  i|  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d.         Sufficient  for  4  or 
5  persons. 

1416.— MEAT  PATTIES. 

Ingredients. — For  the  pastry  :    8  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  fat,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking  powder,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt.     1  ::iixture: 
|  of  a  Ib.  of  beef,  $  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  ±  a  saltspoonful  of  m; 
herbs,   i  tablespoonful  of  gravy  or  water. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  dice,  add  to  it  the  other  ingred i 
and  mix  them  well  together.     The  first  8  rounds  cut  from  the  pastry 
should  be  put  aside  for  the  lids,  for  the  cuttings,  when  re-roll 
be  less  light  and  flaky.     When  shallow  patty-pans  are  used,  the  ; 
ild  be  a  little  larger  than  the  linings  of  the  patty-pans,  so  as  to 
ly  cover  the  mixture,  which  should  be  piled  up  fairly  high.  Make 
a  small  hole  in  the  top  of  each  patty,  brush  over  with  egg  or  milk, 
and  hake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  20  minutes. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost. 

1417.— MEAT  POTTED. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  Australian  meat,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  pepper 
and  salt,  pounded  allspice. 

Method. —  lake   i  Ib.  of  lean  meat,  removing  all  gristle,  skin,  etc., 
and  flavour  it  highly  with  salt,  pepper  and  spice.     Put  it  in  a  men 
and  pound  it  well,  adding  butter  at  intervals  until  a  smooth  paste  is 
obtained.     Place  the  meat  into  small  pots,  pressing  it  down  tightly, 
and  pour  clarified  butter  over  the  top. 

Average  Cost. —  is. 

1418.— MEAT  AND  POTATO  PIE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  mutton,  i  Ib.  of  potatoes,  2  onions,  J  a  pint  of 

.  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. —  Cut  the  meat  into  small  thin  slices,  parboil  and  slice  the 
potatoes  and  onions.     Line  the  bottom  of  a  pic-dish  or  earthcmv 

t  o,  cover  with  a  layer  of  meat  and  a  few  slices  of 
onion,  and  season  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper.     Repeat  until  the 


794  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

materials  are  used,  the  top  layer  being  formed  of  potato.  Pour  in  the 
gravy,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake  for  about  i|-  hours  in  a 
moderate  oven  ;  \  an  hour  before  serving,  remove  the  paper  in  order 
that  the  surface  may  brown. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1419.— MEAT  SANDERS. 

Ingredients. — Cold  boiled  potatoes,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  salt,  flour,  tinned 
meat,  white  of  egg. 

Method. — Rub  some  boiled  potatoes  through  a  sieve,  or  mash  them 
well  in  a  basin.  Add  i  or  2  ozs.  of  butter  or  dripping,  salt,  and  suffi- 
cient flour  to  make  a  paste  firm  enough  to  roll  out.  Cut  this  paste  into 
squares  of  4  or  5  inches,  put  some  chopped  and  seasoned  meat  in  the 
middle,  and  fold  it  over  the  same  as  for  sausage  rolls.  Glaze 
them  with  egg,  and  bake  them  in  a  good  oven  until  they  are  brown. 
Serve  hot. 

Time. — \  of  an  hour. 

1420.— MEAT  SHAPE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  beef,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  mashed  potato,  i  slice  of 
stale  bread  (\  an  inch  thick),  i  teaspoonful  of  onion  (parboiled  and 
finely-chopped ),  \  of  a  pint  of  gravy  or  milk,  browned  breadcrumbs, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Break  the  bread  into  small  pieces,  soak  them  in  the  gravy 
or  milk,  beat  out  all  the  lumps  with  a  fork,  and  add  the  meat 
(chopped  finely).  Add  also  the  potato,  onion,  pepper,  and  a  little 
salt  if  necessary.  Mix  all  well  together  ;  grease  a  basin  or  mould, 
coat  it  thickly  with  browned  breadcrumbs,  put  in  the  mixture 
and  press  it  down  firmly.  Cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  either 
steam  or  bake  gently  for  i  hour.  Serve  with  rich  gravy. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

1421.— MUTTON  WITH  CAPER  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i \  Ibs.  of  tinned  mutton,  f  of  a  pint  of  caper  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No.  182). 

Method. — Turn  the  meat  out  of  the  tin,  and  remove  all  jelly  and 
gravy  (to  be  afterwards  converted  into  caper  sauce).  Replace  the 
meat  in  the  tin,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  and  surround  it  with  boiling  water 
until  thoroughly  heated.  Meanwhile  make  the  sauce  as  directed, 
using  the  jelly  and  gravy  with  stock  or  water  to  make  up  the  amount 
required.  Serve  the  mutton  on  a  hot  dish  with  the  sauce  poured  over. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 


RECIPES    FOR    TINNED    FOODS  795 

1422.— MUTTON  CUTLETS. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  roast  mutton,   i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  butter  or 
frying-fat,  $  of  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  282). 

Method. — Carefully  remove  the  meat  from  the  tin,  slice  it  i 
thickly,  and  trim  it  to  a  cutlet  shape,  putting  all  jelly  and  trimmings 
aside  to  be  afterwards  converted  into  croquettes,  rissoles  or  mine- . 
Coat  the  cutlets  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  which  should  be  highly 
seasoned  to  counteract  the  lack  of  flavour  in  the  meat,  fry  in  hot  butter 
until  nicely  browned,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  round. 
The  dish  may  be  varied  by  serving  tinned  peas  with  it,  haricots 
flageolets,  turnips  and  carrots,  spinach  or  asparagus. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  oxi     Su  me  lent 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

1423.— MEAT   CROQUETTES. 

Ingredient;. — }  a  Ib.  of  beef  or  mutton,  \  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of 
flour,  iblcspoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  2  or  3  tablespoon! 

.   i  tablespoonful  of  Worcester  sauce,  J  a  tcaspoonful  of  fmely- 
choppcd  parsley,  J  a  tcaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  salt  and  y 
egg,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Chop  the   meat   finely.     Heat    the   butter   in   a  stewpan, 

•  •  onion  until  lightly  browned,  add  the  flour  and  stock,  and  boil 
for  i  or  2  min»t«-N.     Now  put  in  the  meat,  breadcrumbs, 

.  parsley,  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  and  mix  well  over  the  fire, 
adding  more  stock  or  water  if  the  ion  appears  at  all  dry.     Turn 

on  to  a  plate,  and  when  cold  divide  into  equal  portions,  form  in'o 
co.it  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned 
in  hot  fat.     If  preferred,  the  mixture  may  be  shaped  into  round  « 
coated  with  flour  and  fried  in  a  little  hot  fat  in  a  frying-pan. 
Average  Cost,  9d.     Sufficient  for  10  or  12  croquettes. 

1424.— RUMP  STEAK  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  rumpsteak,  i  small  tin  of  mushrooms,  I  tin  of 
:  s  beef  extract,  salt  and  pepper,  boiling  suet  paste  (see 

Method. — Drain  the  mushrooms  and  oysters,  and  divide  the  meat 
into  n<  basin  with  paste,  fill  it  with  meat,  oysters  and 

mushrooms,  in  alternate  layers,  seasoning  each  1  h  salt  and 

pepper.     Make  a  strong  gravy  of  meat  extract  and  boiling 
i  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  it  over  * 

•  1  of  paste,  cover  with  greased  paper  or  a  pudding  cloth,  and  cither 
•n  or  boil  for  about  2\  hours.     Add  more  gravy  b<  ing. 

Time. — To  cook  t:  ng,  about  2j  hours.     Average  Cost,  33.  6d. 

Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 


796  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1425.— SAVOURY  BATTER. 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  beef  or  mutton, 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
mixed  herbs,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  4  ozs. 
of  flour,  i  egg,  £  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  egg,  milk  and  salt  into  a  smooth  batter, 
let  it  stand  for  £  an  hour,  then  add  to  it  the  meat,  parsley  and  herbs. 
Melt  a  little  dripping  in  a  Yorkshire  pudding-tin,  pour  in  the  batter, 
and  bake  until  set  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  persons. 

1426.— SHEEP'S  TONGUES. 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  sheep's  tongues,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying 
fat,  salt  and  pepper,  tomato,  piquant  or  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces). 

Method. — Turn  the  tongues  carefully  out  of  the  tin,  remove  the 
j  elly,  split  each  tongue  in  half  lengthwise,  and  take  off  the  skin.  Coat 
with  egg  and  well  seasoned  breadcrumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  well 
browned,  and  serve  with  a  little  of  the  sauce  poured  round,  and  the 
remainder  in  a  sauce  boat. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons. 

1427.— SHEPHERD'S  PIE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  beef  or  mutton,  i  Ib.  of  mashed  potato,  i  oz. 
of  butter  or  dripping,  £  a  pint  of  gravy  or  stock,  i  teaspoonful  of  par- 
boiled and  finely-chopped  onion,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  thin  slices.  Melt  half  the  butter 
or  fat  in  a  stewpan,  add  to  it  the  potato,  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  over 
the  fire  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Place  on  the  bottom  of  a  greased 
pie-dish  a  thin  layer  of  potato,  put  in  the  meat,  sprinkle  each  layer 
with  onion,  salt  and  pepper,  pour  in  the  gravy,  and  cover  with  potato. 
The  potato  covering  may  be  roughed  with  a  fork  or  smoothed  over  with 
a  knife  :  the  latter  method  produces  an  appearance  similar  to  that  of 
ordinary  crust.  Before  baking,  the  remainder  of  the  fat  or  butter 
should  be  put  on  the  top  of  the  pie  in  small  pieces,  or  when  economy 
is  not  an  object,  the  appearance  of  the  pie  may  be  improved  by  brush- 
ing it  over  with  yolk  of  egg.  Bake  until  the  crust  is  well  browned. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.    Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

1428.— TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  beef  or  mutton,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  i  egg,  £  a  pint 
of  milk,  J  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  dripping. 


RECIPES    FOR    TINNED    FOODS  797 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  6  or  8  slices.  Make  a  smooth  batter 
of  the  flour,  egg,  salt  and  milk,  and  let  it  stand  for  half  an  hour.  In 
a  Yorkshire  pudding  tin  melt  sufficient  dripping  to  form  a  layer  on 
the  bottom,  pour  in  about  £  of  the  batter  and  bake  until  slightly  set. 
Season  the  pieces  of  meat  well  with  pepper,  and  also  a  li ttle  salt  if  neces- 
sary, place  them  in  the  tin,  pour  in  the  remainder  of  the  batter,  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  25  or  30  minutes,  or  until  the  batter  is  sufficiently 
browned. 

Time. — 40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod.     Sufficient  for  5  persons. 

1429.— TONGUE,  CURRIED. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  sheep's  tongues,  or  the  remains  of  an  ox  tongue, 
$  of  a  pint  of  curry  sauce  (see  Sauces),  well  boiled  rice,  lemon- 
juice. 

Method. — Remove  the  tongues  carefully  from  the  tin,  strip  off  the 
skin,  and  slice  rather  thir.i  :e  the  sauce  as  directed,  put  in  the 

sliced  tongue,  and  when  thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  flavour 
of  the  sauce,  serve  either  surrounded  or  accompanied  by  the  rice. 

Time. — About  J  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons. 

Sweets. 

1430.— APPLE  WATER. 

Ingredients. — 6  tinned  apples,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  i  quart  of  boiling 
water. 

Method.— Place  the  apples  in  a  jug,  with  a  teacupful  of  the  juice  and 
the  sugar,  add  the  boiling  water,  and  cover  closely.  Serve  cold. 

Time.— i  hour,  if  cooled  on  ice.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  i 
quart. 

1431.  APPLE  COMPOTE. 

Ingredients. —  i  ll>.  uf  Normandy  pippins,  i  oz.  of  almonds,  bla> 
and  halved.  S  o/s.  of  castor  sugar,    i   pint  Q| 

Method. — Soak  the  apples  for  at  least  12  hours  in  ti  .  then 

turn  into  a  stcwpan,  add  the  sugar,  and  simmer  gently  until  U  i 
Drain,  replace  the  syrup  in  the  stewpan,  and  boil  rapidly  until 
siderably  red  \rrange  the  apples  in  a  glass  dish,  pour  the  symp 

over,  garnish  with  the  prepared  almonds,  and  when  cold,  s« 

Time. — 3  or  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1432.  -DAMSON  CHARLOTTE. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  damsons,  stale  bread,  J  of  a  pint  of  1 


798  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

custard,  milk  (Swiss  condensed  milk  and  water  may  be  used ),  sugar, 
butter,  \  an  oz.  of  Swinbourne's  gelatine. 

Method. — Coat  a  round  cake  tin  with  butter,  line  the  side  with  strips 
of  bread,  previously  soaked  in  sweetened  milk,  and  shape  a  round  to 
fit  the  bottom  of  the  tin.  Turn  the  damsons  and  their  juice  into  a 
stewpan,  simmer  until  soft,  and  remove  the  stones.  Replace  the  fruit 
in  the  stewpan,  sweeten  to  taste,  add  the  gelatine,  previously  soaked 
in  cold  water,  and  stir  until  it  is  dissolved.  Pour  the  preparation  into 
the  tin,  cover  with  another  round  of  soaked  bread,  and  place  the  tin 
under  pressure  until  cold.  Serve  with  the  custard  poured  over  and 
round.  The  custard  may  be  made  of  a  packet  of  custard  powder,  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  Swiss  condensed  milk,  and  f-  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  4  or  5  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  persons. 

I433-— RASPBERRY  AND  CURRANT  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  raspberries  and  currants,  \  a  pint  of  water, 
stale  bread,  sugar.  For  the  custard  :  i  packet  of  custard  powder, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  condensed  milk,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Add  \  a  pint  of  water  to  the  fruit  and  juice,  cook  gently 
for  20  minutes,  sweeten  to  taste  and  strain  off  the  juice.  Select  a  pie- 
dish  large  enough  to  contain  three-fourths  of  the  materials,  line  the 
bottom  with  a  rather  thin  slice  (or  slices)  of  bread,  and  add  a  layer 
of  fruit,  cover  with  bread,  repeat  until  all  the  fruit  is  used,  and  add  the 
syrup,  a  little  at  a  time,  to  avoid  floating  the  bread.  On  the  follow- 
ing day  make  the  custard,  pour  it  into  the  pie-dish,  and  serve  when 
quite  cold. 

Time. — i  day.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

I434._STRAWBERRY  MOULD. 

Ingredients. — i  packet  of  strawberry  pudding  powder,  i  pint  of 
milk  (or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  Swiss  milk  and  i  pint  of  water),  \  an  cz. 
of  butter,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Mix  the  powder  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil  the 
remainder  of  the  milk,  add  the  blended  milk  and  powder,  and  stir  until 
boiling.  Add  the  butter,  sweeten  to  taste,  boil  gently  for  about  5 
minutes,  then  turn  into  a  wetted  mould,  and  put  aside  until  cold. 

Time. — To  make  the  mould,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d. 
Sufficient  for  4  persons. 


VEGETABLES. 


i.— Croquette  Potatoes.  a.— Spinach  and  Egg*.  3.— Asparagus.  4.— Cauliflower. 
5.-Wafer  Potatoes.  6.-Mushrooms  7.— New  Peas.  8.-French  Beans. 
9.— Stuffed  Tomatoes.  ia— New  Carrots 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS 
ON  VEGETABLES 

CHAPTER    XXIX 

Remarks  on  the  Science  of  Botany  and  the  Properties 
of  Vegetables. 

In:  knowledge  of  plants  in  the  earlier  history  of  mankind  was  restrn  u-d 
to  those  from  which  food  was  obtained,  or  were  remarkable  for 
their  curative  or  poisonous  nature,  their  relative  value  being  determined 
by  practical  experience.  As  civilization  advanced,  the  priests,  who 
made  a  study  of  the  medicinal  properties  of  the  plants  then  known  to 
them,  were  the  doctors  of  the  period,  and  thus  the  connexion  b< 
n  li^ion  and  medicine  which  so  long  prevailed  became  established. 

Hippocrates  (fifth  century  B.C.),  the  "  Father  of  Medicine,"  enumer- 
ated 234  species  of  plants  known  in  his  time  and  used  for  medicinal 
purposes.     The  first  book,  having  a  basis  of  science,  was  that  of  An- 
totle    (384-322   B.C.),    the   celebrated   philosopher   and   naturalist   of 
ancient  Greece.     His  pupil,  Theophrastus,  describes  some  500  plants 
known  in  agriculture,  domestic  use,  and  medicine.     No  further  progress 
seems  to  have  been  made  in  the  study  of  botany*  until  the  first  century 
A. P.,   when   Dioscorides,   a  Greek   physician,    the   author   of  a 
brated    work    on    medicine,    long    a   standard  work,  describes 
600  plants  used  in  the  healing  art.        Pliny  the  Elder  (23-70 
who  perished  in  the  eruption  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  which  ovcrwl 
Pompeii    and    Herculaneum,    utilized    the    labours   of   his   pn 
sors,   and   collected    the    most    interesting    facts  from  their  writings, 
which   he  embodied  in  ural   History,   the  only  work    of    the 

Roman    naturalist    now    extant.       The    above-mentioned    works    on 
botany   were   the  best   until   the  sixteenth  century,   and  were    held 
in    high    reputation.      At    this    period     the    Germans    began    those 
igations  in   this   branch  of    science  in   which    they  have    long 
and    honourably    held    a   distinguished   place.       The   first    to   rl 
tematically  \\  ;>iniu^    <li<  <1   1603),  dividing  tin- 

table  kingdom  into  woody  and  herbaceous  plants.     The  growth  of 

709 


8oo  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

mercantile  enterprise  in  the  East  and  the  discovery  of  America  added 
greatly  to  botanical  knowledge,  hampered,  however,  by  the  different 
names  given  to  the  same  plant  by  various  discoverers,  a  difficulty 
which  the  brothers  John  and  Casper  Banhin  endeavoured  to  overcome. 
Jung,  the'rector  of  the  Gymnasium  at  Hamburg  (died  1657),  originated 
the  Latin  system  of  botanical  nomenclature;  and  in  1700  Tournefort 
first  classified  plants  into  strictly  defined  genera  founded  on  the  form 
of  the  flower.  It  was,  however,  reserved  to  Carl  von  Linne,  more 
generally  known  by  his  latinized  name,  Linnaeus,  in  the  eighteenth 
century,  to  place  the  science  of  botany  on  a  firm  foundation,  and  to 
propound  the  system  which  bears  his  name.  The  Linnsean  system, 
although  it  possesses  many  advantages  for  the  purpose  of  classification, 
is  an  artificial  one,  the  Vegetable  Kingdom  being  divided  into  24 
classes  (23  comprising  flowering  plants,  the  24th  including  the  Crypto- 
gamia,or  flowerless  plants),  dependent  on  the  number  and  arrangement 
of  the  stamens,  and  these,  again,  into  orders  with  respect  to  the  pistils 
or  carpils.  Linnaeus  also  introduced  the  binomial  system  of  classifica- 
tion, by  means  of  which  every  plant  is  distinguished  by  two  Latin 
names,  the  first  denoting  the  genus,  the  second  the  species  :  for  example, 
the  common  hemlock  is  described  as  Conium  masculatum,  L.,  the  letter 
appended  indicating  the  name  of  the  botanist  who  first  bestowed  it. 
The  Linnaean  system  has  since  been  superseded  by  the  natural  system, 
originally  promulgated  by  Jussieu  (1748-1836)  in  his  work  "Genera 
Plantarum,"  the  first  complete  exposition  of  the  natural  system,  since 
modified  by  a  combination  of  systems  proposed  by  De  Candolle,  End- 
licher,  Meisner,  Lindley,  Sir  W.  and  Dr.  J.  H.  Hooker,  Bentham,  and 
other  botanists.  The  natural  system  divides  the  Vegetable  Kingdom 
into  two  great  sections,  Cryptogamia,  or  plants  destitute  of  flowers, 
containing  anthers,  and  Phanerogamia,  or  plants  containing  the  organs 
above  specified. 

Lichens  and  Mosses. — These  low  classes  of  cryptogamous  plants  are 
widely  distributed  over  the  surface  of  the  earth,  the  lichens  being  most 
abundant  in  the  colder  regions  of  the  globe,  and  are  of  considerable 
importance  in  the  economy  of  nature.  They  assist  materially  in  the 
creation  of  the  soil,  and  thrive  in  the  coldest  and  most  sterile  situations, 
many  of  them  growing  on  the  barest  rocks  and  receiving  no  other 
nourishment  than  that  afforded  by  air  and  rain.  They  pass  into  a 
state  of  decay,  and  by  their  debris  sustain  other  species,  which  in  their 
turn  supply  nourishment  to  other  plants.  This  continuous  process  of 
growth  and  decay  assists  by  chemical  and  mechanical  action  in  the 
disintegration  of  rock,  and  forms  a  soil  sufficient  to  maintain  larger 
plants,  which  also  die  and  decay,  and  thus  the  soil  is  increased  until  it 
is  sufficiently  deep  to  sustain  the  beech  or  oak,  or  even  the  trees  of  a 
tropical  forest.  Some  species  of  lichens  are  useful  as  articles  of  food 
to  the  inhabitants  of  the  northern  regions  and  their  domesticated 
animals,  as  the  "  Iceland  moss  "  (Cetraria  islandica),  which  contains 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  VEGETABLES 

the  gelatinous  substance  lichcnin,  and  the  "  reindeer  moss  "  (Cladonia 
rangiferiua),  which  grows  abundantly  in  the  Arctic  regions,  and  forms 
the  chief  nourishment  of  the  reindeer.  Other  lichens  are  valuable  for 
medicinal  purposes,  as  Parmelia  parietina,  used  as  a  remedy  for 

•al  other  lichens  such  as  "  Roccella  tinctoria"  are  employed  in 
dyeing  important  shades  of  crimson  and  purple  in  silk  and  wool.  This 
colouring  matter,  known  as  archil,  or  orchil,  is  obtained  from  various 
lichens  natives  of  the  rocks  of  the  Canary  and  the  Cape  de  Yerd  Islands, 
and  is  principally  used  in  conjunction  with  aniline  dyes  to  improve 
their  tints.  The  Parmelia  csculenta  of  Asia  Minor  and  the  Sahara 
is  identified  by  some  with  the  "  Manna  "  of  Scripture. 

In  the  vicinity  of  lichens,  the  Musci,  or  mosses,  are  generally  to  be 

found.     Like  the  lichens,  wherever  vegetation  can  be  sustained  they 

arc  present,  affording  protection  to  the  roots  and  seeds  of  more  highly 

organized  plants,  and  by  their  spongy  texture  retaining  moisture  which 

us  from  the  drought  of  summer.     Mosses  abound 

in  our  pastures  and  woods,  attaching  themselves  both  to  the  living  and 

dead  trunks  and  branches  of  trees.     They  also  grow  luxuriously  in 

..y  places,  and  become  a  medium  for  the  conversion  of  these  into 

fruitful  fields.    The  bog-mosses  (Sphagnaccae)  grow  in  water  or  on  some 

um,  and  contribute  largely  to  the  formation  of  peats. 
:i  nature   has  provided  a  soil,  her  next  care  is  to  perfect  the 
h  of  her  seeds  and  then  to  disperse  them.     Thi> 
the  structure  ami   arrangement  of  the  seed  varying  according  to  the 
nature  of  its  particular  habitat.     When  the  seed,  or  mature  i 

,  it  bursts  the  cap>ule  in  which  it  is  contained  and  falls  to  the 
ground,  or  is  sc  ,1.     Some  seeds,  as  the  Cuckoo-t! 

is),  escape  by  an  clastic  jerk  at  the  moment  of  their 

and  by  this  means  are  cast  to  a  distance.       Others  like 

those  of  the  maple,  elm,  and  ash  have  wing-like  appendages  which 

the  seed  to  be  curried  in  the  air;  others  again.  U  histle 

and  dandelion,  are  provided  with  downy  han  ats,  by  means 

of  \\ ;  ;  long  distances  by  the  breezes. 

.ise  the  means  of  <' 

•  f  plants,  and  placing  them  in  situations  where  they  ultin, 
•  ongst  th<  -juiiTcl.  which  is  a: 

a.     It  is  i  iat  a  gentleman  was  walking  one  day  in  some 

woods  belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  near  Troy  House,  in  Mon- 
mouti  :en  his  attention  was  arrested  by  a  squirrel,  sitting  very 

composedly  upon  the  ground.     He  stopped  to  observe  its  m« 

tiiimal  suddenly  quitted  its  position,  and  d 

to  the  top  of  the  tree  beneath  which  it  had  been  In  an  instant 

it  ret  ii  an  acorn  in  its  mouth,  and  with  its  paws  bc^ 

.»•  in  the  earth.      After  digging  a  small  hole,  it  deposited  in 

covered,  and  ;  ted  up  the  tree  again, 

down  with  another  whkh  it  buried    in  the 

D  D 


802  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

manner;  and  so  continued  its  labour,  gathering  and  burying,  as  long 
as  the  gentleman  had  patience  to  watch  it.  This  industry  in  the  squirrel 
is  an  instinct  which  directs  it  to  lay  up  a  store  of  provision  for  the 
winter;  and  it  is  probable  that  its  memory  is  not  sufficiently  retentive 
to  recollect  all  the  spots  in  which  it  deposits  its  acorns;  it  no  doubt 
makes  some  slips  in  the  course  of  the  season,  and  loses  some  of  them. 
These  few  spring  up,  and  are,  in  time,  destined  to  supply  the  place  of 
the  parent  tree.  As  with  the  squirrel,  so  with  the  jays  and  pies,  which 
plant  horse-beans  among  the  grass  and  moss,  and  probably  forget 
where  they  have  secreted  them.  John  White  of  Selborne,  the  naturalist, 
said  that  both  horse-beans  and  peas  sprang  up  in  his  field-walks  in  the 
autumn;  and  he  attributed  the  sowing  of  them  to  birds.  Bees,  he  also 
observed,  are  much  the  best  setters  of  cucumbers.  If  they  do  not 
happen  to  take  kindly  to  the  frames,  the  best  way  is  to  tempt  them 
with  a  little  honey  put  on  the  male  and  female  bloom.  When  they  are 
once  induced  to  haunt  the  frames  they  set  all  the  fruit,  and  will  hover 
with  impatience  round  the  lights  in  a  morning  till  the  glasses  are 
opened.  The  important  function  which  insects  discharge  in  the 
fertilization  of  plants  will  be  familiar  to  all  who  have  read  the  late 
Mr.  Darwin's  works. 

Some  of  the  acorns  planted  by  the  squirrel  of  Monmouthshire  may 
be  now  in  a  fairway  to  become,  at  the  end  of  some  centuries,  venerable 
trees,  for  not  the  least  remarkable  quality  of  oaks  is  the  strong  principle 
of  life  with  which  they  are  endued.  In  Major  Rooke's  Sketch  of  the 
Forest  of  Sherwood,  we  find  it  stated  that,  on  some  timber  cut  down 
in  Berkland  and  Bilhaugh,  letters  were  found  stamped  in  the  bodies 
of  the  trees,  denoting  the  King's  reign  in  which  they  were  marked. 
The  bark  appears  to  have  been  cut  off,  and  then  the  letters  to  have 
been  cut  in,  and  the  next  year's  wood  to  have  grown  over  them  without 
adhering  to  where  the  bark  had  been  cut  out.  The  ciphers  were  found 
to  be  of  James  I,  William  and  Mary,  and  one  of  King  John.  One 
of  the  ciphers  of  James  was  about  one  foot  within  the  tree,  and  one  foot 
from  the  centre.  It  was  cut  down  in  1786.  The  tree  must  have  been 
two  feet  in  diameter,  or  two  yards  in  circumference,  when  the  mark 
was  cut.  A  tree  of  this  size  is  generally  estimated  at  120  years'  growth; 
which  number  being  substracted  from  the  middle  year  of  the  reign  of 
James,  would  carry  the  year  back  to  1492,  which  would  be  about  the 
period  of  its  being  planted.  The  tree  with  the  cipher  of  William  and 
Mary  displayed  its  mark  about  nine  inches  within  the  tree,  and  three 
feet  three  inches  from  the  centre.  This  tree  was  felled  in  1786.  The 
cipher  of  John  was  eighteen  inches  within  the  tree,  and  rather  more 
than  a  foot  from  the  centre.  The  middle  year  of  the  reign  of  that 
monarch  was  1207.  By  subtracting  from  this  120,  the  number  of 
years  requisite  for  a  tree's  growth  to  arrive  at  the  diameter  of  two  feet, 
the  date  of  its  being  planted  would  seem  to  have  been  1085,  or  about 
twenty  years  after  the  Conquest. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  VEGETABLES  803 

Science  tends  more  and  more  to  show  that  a  closer  affinity  exists 
between  plants  and  animals  than  was  formerly  believed,  and  conse- 
quently the  old  "  hard  and  fast  "  division  made  by  older  naturalists 
cannot  now,  in  the  presence  of  the  facts  established  by  microscopic 
research,  be  maintained.  Some  animals,  as,  for  example,  the  sea- 
anemone,  have  no  power  of  locomotion  or  the  ability  to  effect  changes 
of  place  at  will;  on  the  other  hand,  some  plants  are  endowed  with  the 
power  of  voluntary  movements,  apparently  spontaneous  and  inde- 
pendent. In  certain  cases  these  movements  are  effected  by  means  of 
little  vibrating  hairs  or  cilia,  in  others,  as  the  Diatomaccae,  and  Dcsmi- 
diae,  they  are  not  produced  by  cilia,  but  by  some  other  means.  In 
general  terms  the  differences  between  animals  and  plants  may  be  stated 
as  follows,  it  being  borne  in  mind  that  the  rules  are  not  universally 
applicable,  some  lungi,  for  instance,  cannot  live  on  inorganic  sub- 
stances alone,  while  some  of  the  lower  forms  of  animal  life  act  like  plants 
and  manufacture  organic  compounds  out  of  inorganic  materials. 

i.  Plants  live  on  purely  inorganic  substances,  such  as  water,  carbonic 
acid  and  ammonia,  and  they  have  the  power  of  making  out  of  these 
true  organic  substances,  such  as  starch,  cellulose,  sugar,  etc.  Plants, 
therefore,  take  as  food  very  simple  bodies,  and  manufacture  them 
into  more  complex  substances,  so  that  plants  arc  the  great  producers 
in  nature. 

'lants  in  the  process  of  digestion  break  up  carbonic  acid  intc  the 
two  elements  of  which  it  is  composed,  namely,  carbon  and  ox 
keeping  the  carbon  and  setting  free  the  oxygen.     As  carbonic  acid 
occurs  always  in  the  air  in  small  quantities,  the  result  of  this  is  that 
plants  remove  carbonic  acid  from  the  atmosphere,  and  give  out  o\ 

3.  Animals,  on  the  other  hand,  have  no  power  of  living  on  inor 
matters,  such  as  water,  carbonic  acid,  and  ammonia.  They 
no  power  of  converting  these  into  the  complex  organic  substances  of 
which  their  bodies  are  composed.  On  the  contrary,  animals  require 
to  be  supplied  with  ready-made  organic  compounds  if  their  existence 
is  to  be  maintained.  These  they  can  only  get  in  the  first  place  from 
plants,  and  therefore  arc  oil  dependent  upon  plants  for  food  cither 
directly  or  indirectly.  Animals,  therefore,  differ  from  plants  in  ic- 
quiring  as  food  complex  organic  bodies,  which  they  ultimately  reduce 
y  much  simpler  inorganic  bodies.  Whilst  plants,  then,  arc  the 
great  manufacturers  in  Nature,  animals  are  the  great  consumers.  An- 
other distinction  arising  from  the  nature  of  their  food  is  that  whilst 
plants  decompose  carbonic  acid,  keeping  the  carbon  and  setting  free 
the  oxygen,  animals  absorb  oxygen  and  give  out  carbonic  acid,  so  that 
their  reaction  upon  the  atmosphere  is  the  reverse  of  that  of  plants. 

A  certain  analogy  may  be  observed  between  the  organs  of  Jife  in 
plants  and  those  of  animals.     If,  for  example,  we  take  a  thin  tran- 
slice  of  the  stem  of  any  plant,  and  cut  across  that  stem  and  immerse 
it  in  pure  water,  and  place  it  under  a  microscope,  we  shall  find  that  it 


804         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

consists  principally  of  cells  of  various  shapes  according  to  particular 
plants.  The  cells,  which  are  generally  very  minute,  are  the  elementary 
organs,  and  although  the  cell  may  vary  in  form,  in  its  essential  nature 
it  is  always  the  same.  Most  cells  are  inclosed  by  a  cell-wall,  and  contain 
a  watery  cell-sap,  and  a  mucilaginous  semi-fluid  substance  called  proto- 
plasm, composed  of  different  organic  constituents  ;  among  these  nitro- 
genous  or  albuminous  matter  is  always  present,  and  in  the  largest 
proportion.  In  some  plants  the  protoplasm  is  not  at  first  inclosed  by 
cell-walls,  but  it  is  sooner  or  later  enclosed  in  a  more  or  less  elastic 
membrane.  No  cell  can  exist  in  a  living  state  or  grow  unless  it  con- 
tains protoplasm,  which  is  therefore  the  basis  of  all  vegetable  life. 
In  addition  to  protoplasm  and  the  watery  cell-sap,  there  exists  in  the 
cell  various  substances  and  gases  in  a  state  of  solution,  albumins,  pro- 
teins, etc.,  and  chlorophyll,  the  green  colouring  matter  in  plants, 
which  always  occurs  combined  with  protoplasm.  The  action  of 
chlorophyll  in  the  life  of  a  plant  is  important,  as  it  breaks  up  the  car- 
bonic acid  gas  taken  in  by  the  plant  into  its  two  elements,  oxygen  and 
carbon,  converting  the  carbon  with  the  water  in  the  plant  into  starch, 
and  giving  back  the  oxygen  to  the  air.  Light  is  indispensable  for  the 
production  of  chlorophyll;  without  light  plants  become  bleached  or 
etiolated,  a  circumstance  utilized  by  the  gardener  to  produce  a  blanched 
appearance  on  certain  vegetables.  Those  parts  of  a  plant  which  are 
not  green,  as  the  petals  of  flowers,  owe  their  colour  to  the  presence  of 
peculiar  pigments  which  give  their  tint  to  the  blossom. 

The  forms  of  the  cells  are  various;  they  are  also  subject  to  various 
transformations.  Sometimes  a  number  of  cells  are  laid  end  to  end, 
and,  by  the  absorption  of  the  transverse  partitions,  form  a  continuous 
tube,  as  in  the  sap  vessels  of  plants,  or  in  muscular  and  nervous  fibre; 
and  when  the  cells  are  thus  woven  together,  they  are  called  cellular 
tissue,  which,  in  the  human  body,  forms  a  fine  net-like  membrane, 
enveloping  or  connecting  most  of  its  structures.  In  pulpy  fruits, 
the  cells  may  be  easily  separated,  one  from  the  other;  and  within  the 
cells  are  smaller  cells,  commonly  known  as  pulp.  Among  the  cells 
contents  of  some  plants  are  beautiful  crystals,  called  raphides.  The 
term  is  derived  from  "  raphis,"  a  needle,  on  account  of  the  resemblance 
of  a  crystal  to  a  needle.  They  are  composed  of  the  phosphate  and 
oxalate  of  lime;  but  there  is  a  great  difference  of  opinion  as  to  their  use 
in  the  economy  of  the  plant.  The  differences  between  the  highest 
form  of  crystal  and  the  lowest  form  of  organic  life  known,  viz.,  a  simple 
productive  cell,  are  manifold  and  striking.  In  a  layer  of  an  onion, 
a  fig,  a  section  of  garden  rhubarb,  in  some  species  of  the  aloe,  in  the  bark 
df  many  trees,  and  in  portions  of  the  cuticle  of  the  medicinal  squill, 
bundles  of  these  needle-shaped  crystals  are  to  be  found.  Some  of  them 
are  as  large  as  i-4Oth  of  an  inch,  others  are  as  small,  as  i-ioooth. 
They  are  found  in  all  parts  of  the  plant — in  the  stem,  bark,  leaves, 
stipules,  petals,  fruit,  roots,  and  even  in  the  pollen,  with  some  few 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  OX  VEGETABLES   805 

exceptions,  and  they  are  always  situat'-d  in  the  interior  oi  evil-;.  Some 
plants,  as  many  of  the  cactus  tribe,  are  made  up  almost  entirely  of 
these  needle-crystals;  in  some  instances,  every  cell  of  the  cuticle  con- 
t.iins  a  stellate  mass  of  crystals;  in  others  the  whole  interior  is  full  of 
them,  rendering  the  plant  so  exceedingly  brittle  that  the  least  touch 
will  occasion  a  fracture;  so  much  so,  that  some  specimens  of  Cactus 
seiiilis,  said  to  be  a  thousand  years  old,  which  were  sent  to  Kcw  from 
South  America,  were  obliged  to  be  packed  in  cotton,  with  all  tlu 
of  the  most  delicate  jewellery,  to  preserve  them  during  transport. 

ides  the  cellular  tissue,  there  is  a  vascular  system,  which  consists 
of  another  set  of  small  vessels.  If,  for  example,  we,  early  in  the  :>pring, 
cut  a  branch  transversely,  we  should  perceive  the  sap  oozing  out  from 
Humorous  points  over  the  whole  of  the  divided  surface,  except  on  that 
part  occupied  by  the  pith  and  the  bark;  and  if  a  twig,  on  which  the 
I  are  already  unfolded,  be  cut  from  the  tree,  and  p!.:c«.d  \\ith 
its  cut  ends  in  a  watery  solution  of  Brazil-wood,  the  colouring  m.itur 
will  be  found  to  ascend  into  the  leaves  and  to  the  top  of  the  twig.  In 
both  these  cases,  a  close  examination  with  a  powerful  microscop 
discover  the  sap  exuding  from  the  divided  portion  of  the  stem,  and  the 
colouring  matter  rising  through  real  tubes  to  the  top  of  the  twig; 

are  the  sap  or  conducting  vessels  of  the  plant.     If,  however, 

unine  a  trans \  lion  of  the  vine,  or  of  any  other  tree,  at  a 

later  period  of  the  season,  we  find  that  the  wood  is  apparently  dry, 
whilst  the  bark,  particularly  that  part  next  the  wood,  is  swelled  with 
fluid.  This  is  contained  in  vessels  of  a  different  kind  from  those  in 
which  the  sap  rises.  They  are  found  in  the  bark  only  in  trees,  and  may 
be  called  returning  vessels,  from  their  cam-ing  the  sap  downv 
after  its  preparation  in  the  leaf.  It  is  believed  that  the  passage  of  the 
sap  in  plants  is  conducted  in  a  manner  precisely  similar  to  that  of  the 
blood  in  man,  from  the  regular  contraction  and  expansion  of  the  vessels; 
but,  on  account  of  their  extreme  minuteness,  it  is  almost  an  impossi- 
bility to  be  certain  upon  this  point.  Numerous  observations  made 
with  the  microscope  show  that  their  diameter  seldom  exceeds  a  joooth 
part  of  an  inch.  Leuwenho  ;  2O/XX)  vessels  in  a  piece  of 

0,1  k   i   ;-;th  of  an  u  /e. 

In  the  vascular  system  oi  a  plant  we  at  once  see  the  great  analogy 
which  it  bears  to  the  veins  and  arteries  in  the  human  system 

r  it,  nor  the  cellular  tissue  combined,  is  all  that  is  required  to 
perfect  the  production  of  a  vegetable.  There  is,  besides,  a  trachcal 
system,  which  is  compos-  y  minute  elastic  spiral  tubes,  des; 

for  the  purpose  of  '  i  to  and  from  the  plant.     There 

arc  ;il  .  which  consist  of  collect  ioi  e  cells  and  \ 

together.     These  form  the  root  and  the  stem.     If  we 
attempt  to  cut  them  tninsv.  meet  with  ditiiculty,  because  wr9 

•iv.e  our  way  across  the,  tubes,  and  break  them;  but  if  v, 
the  wood  1  .ted  without  breaking.     The 


806  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

layers  of  wood  which  appear  in  the  stem  or  branch  of  a  tree  cut  trans- 
versely, consist  of  different  zones  of  fibres,  each  the  produce  of  one 
year's  growth,  and  separated  by  a  coat  of  cellular  tissue,  without 
which  they  could  not  be  well  distinguished.  Besides  all  these,  there 
is  the  cuticle,  which  extends  over  every  part  of  the  plant,  and  covers 
the  bark  with  three  distinct  coats. 

The  root  and  the  stem  finally  demand  notice.  The  root  is  designed, 
not  only  to  support  the  plant  by  fixing  it  in  the  soil,  but  also  to  fulfil 
the  functions  of  a  channel  for  the  conveyance  of  nourishment;  it  is 
therefore  furnished  with  pores,  or  spongioles,  as  they  are  called,  from 
their  resemblance  to  a  sponge,  to  suck  up  whatever  comes  within  its 
reach.  It  is  found  in  a  variety  of  forms,  and  hence  its  adaptation  to 
a  great  diversity  of  soils  and  circumstances.  We  have  heard  of  a 
willow-tree  being  dug  up,  and  its  head  planted  where  its  roots  were, 
and  these  suffered  to  spread  out  in  the  air  like  naked  branches.  In 
course  of  time  the  roots  became  branches,  and  the  branches  roots,  or 
rather  roots  rose  from  the  branches  beneath  the  ground,  and  the 
branches  shot  from  the  roots  above.  Some  roots  last  one  year,  others 
two,  and  others,  like  the  shrubs  and  trees  which  they  produce,  have  an 
indefinite  period  of  existence;  but  they  all  consist  of  a  collection  of 
fibres,  composed  of  vascular  and  cellular  tissues,  without  tracheae,  or 
breathing-vessels.  The  stem  is  the  grand  distributor  of  the  nourish- 
ment taken  by  the  roots  to  the  various  parts  of  the  plant.  The  seat 
of  its  vitality  is  in  the  point  or  spot  called  the  neck,  which  separates 
the  stem  from  the  root.  If  the  root  of  a  young  plant  be  cut  off,  it  will 
shoot  afresh;  if  the  stem  be  taken  away  it  will  be  renewed. 

Vegetables. — We  here  take  the  word  "  vegetable  "  in  its  usual 
acceptation,  and  not  in  its  literal  meaning.  We  will  now  more  specially 
consider  those  vegetable  foods  that  are  eaten  with,  and  to  some  extent 
supply  the  deficiences  of,  meat. 

For  convenience  sake,  these  vegetables  may  be  divided  into  four 
classes  :  i,  roots  and  tubers;  2,  pulses;  3,  leaves  and  salads;  4,  fungi. 

It  is  a  rough  classification,  and  some  vegetables  will  not  fall  of  them- 
selves into  either  class,  but  it  will  serve  for  our  present  purpose. 

Roots  and  Tubers. — Of  roots  and  tubers  the  principal  one  is  the  potato. 
Brought  from  South  America  by  Sir  Francis  Drake  and  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh,  it  was  a  long  time  creeping  into  public  favour,  and  even  in  the 
eighteenth  century  we  find  Bradley,  a  considerable  authority  on  gardens, 
writing:  "  They  are  of  less  note  than  horseradish,  radish,  scorsonera, 
beets,  skirret,  but  as  they  are  not  without  admirers  I  will  not  pass 
them  by  in  silence."  In  Mortimer's  Garden  Kalendar,  written  in 
the  1 8th  century  age,  he  tells  how,  when  he  had  to  feed  the  poor  of 
Munich,  the  prejudice  against  potatoes  was  so  strong  that  he  was 
obliged  to  prepare  them  in  secret,  and  to  let  none  of  the  people  know 
what  thickened  the  soup  they  liked  so  well,  but  when  once  accustomed 
to  the  new  food  they  preferred  it  to  any  other  soup, 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  VEGETABLES  807 

Potato  as  Food. — No  doubt  much  of  its  popularity  is  due  to  its  cheap- 
ness, its  good  keeping  power,  and  its  unobtrusive  flavour.  Since  the 
potato  disease  it  has  not  always  been  as  cheap  as  once  it  was,  but  it 
still  remains  one  of  the  cheapest,  if  not  the  cheapest,  of  foods.  We 
have  cheap  corn  now,  and  if  potatoes  and  corn  were  the  same  price 
per  pound,  corn  would  be  the  cheaper  of  the  two.  For  potatoes  are  very 
watery.  Three-quarters  of  the  weight  of  every  potato  is  water,  and 
of  the  remaining  quarter  half  is  starch,  there  being  much  less  of  flesh- 
forming  material  than  in  many  other  cheap  foods.  If  a  man  had  to 
live  on  potatoes  alone,  he  must  eat  many  pounds  weight  daily  in  order 
to  obtain  flesh-formers  enough  to  do  even  moderate  work.  The  Irish, 
who  do  live  on  potatoes,  add  buttermilk  to  supply  what  is  wanting, 
and  even  so  consume  immense  quantities  of  vegetables.  Potato, 
however,  besides  starch  and  water,  contains  much  ash  or  salt,  and  is 
for  that  reason  an  excellent  anti-scorbutic.  It  is  a  strange  fact  that 
many  English  people,  from  one  week's  end  to  another,  eat  no  vegetable 
except  potato,  an  exotic,  acclimatised  here  at  the  cost  of  much  pains 
and  perseverance. 

The  potato  belongs  to  the  order  Solanaceae,  to  which  also  belong 
some  of  the  deadliest  poisons  we  possess,  and  also  contains  a  poisonous 
principle  known  as  solanine.  Potatoes  that  have  been  frozen  rapidly 
decompose,  because,  owing  to  the  freezing  of  the  water  that  they 
contain,  the  cells  arc  burst  and  broken.  They  also  deteriorate  if  they 
are  allowed  to  sprout.  Some  or  all  of  the  starch  is  changed  to  dextrine, 
a  gummy  substance  with  a  sweetish  taste,  which  no  longer  assumes  a 
mealy  appearance  on  boiling  as  does  a  starchy  potato.  The  waste 
in  boiling  is  much  less  if  the  tubers  are  boiled  in  their  skins,  which  are 
of  a  cork-like  substance  impervious  to  water.  There  is  also  considerable 
waste  in  peeling  potatoes,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  least  watery 
and  most  albuminous  part  of  the  tubers  lies  immediately  under  the 
skin.  It  is  said  that  one  seventh  of  every  potato  is  wasted  by  the 
common  method  of  cooking. 

Uo  starch  is  largely  used  to  adulterate  other  farinaceous  prepara- 
tions, as  it  is  the  cheapest  form  of  starch.  It  is,  however,  stated  that 
it  turns  watery  sooner  than  other  starches  if  allowed  to  stand  after  it 
is  coo' 

Vegetables  of  the  Olden  Time.— Not  only  potatoes,  but  many  other 
vegetables  now  common,  were  unknown  to  our  forefathers  even  a  few 
centuries  back,  and  the  fruits  were  very  different  to  those  at  present 
produced  in  K upland.  The  following  extract,  from  Professor  Thorold 
Rogers'  well-known  work  on  the  History  of  Prices,  serves  to  show  the 
\isting  state  of  things. 

"The  manor  house  possessed  a  garden  and  orchard.    But  the  former 

very  deficient  in  vegetables.     The  householder  of  the  thirteenth 

and  fourteenth  centuries  grew  onions  and  leeks,  mustard,  and  garden 

or  green  peas.     He  probably  possessed  cabbage,  though  I  have  never 


8o8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

found  either  seed  or  plants  quoted.  Apples,  and  sometimes  pears, 
are  mentioned  as  part  of  the  orchard  produce,  but  we  read  of  no  plums 
except  once  of  damsons.  A  regular  part  of  the  produce  of  the  orchard 
was  eider,  and  its  low  price  seems  to  suggest  that  it  was  made  in  con- 
siderable quantities.  Crabs  were  collected  in  order  to  manufacture 
Verjuice — an  important  item  in  mediaeval  cookery.  Bees,  though 
honey  was  dear,  and  wax  very  high  priced,  do  not  seem  to  have  been 
commonly  kept. 

"  Scurvy  in  its  most  violent  forms,  and  leprosy,  modified  perhaps  by 
the  climate,  were  common  disorders,  for,  as  has  often  been  said,  the 
people  lived  on  salt  meat  half  the  year,  and  not  only  were  they  without 
potatoes,  but  they  do  not  appear  to  have  had  other  roots  now  in  com- 
mon use,  as  carrots  and  parsnips.  Onions  and  cabbage  appear  to  have 
•been  the  only  esculent  vegetables.  It  will  be  found  that  nettles  (if 
we  can  identify  those  with  urticae)  were  sold  from  the  garden.  Spices, 
the  cheapest  of  which  was  pepper,  were  quite  out  of  their  reach.  Sugar 
was  s.  very  costly  luxury,  and  our  forefathers  do  not  appear,  judging 
from  the  rarity  of  the  notices,  to  have  been  skilful  in  their  management 
of  bees." 

Value  of  Vegetable  Food. — If  potatoes  are  watery,  most  of  the  roots 
and  tubers  we  have  now  to  consider  are  even  more  so.  Out  of  every 
loo  Ibs.  of  potatoes,  75  Ibs.  are  water;  out  of  every  TOO  Ibs.  of  carrot, 
89  Ibs.;  of  turnips,  92  Ibs. ;  of  the  artichoke,  80  Ibs.  ;  of  onion,  91  Ibs. ;  of 
the  8  or  10  Ib.  that  remain,  there  is  sometimes  starch,  sometimes  an 
analogous  substance  known  as  inulin,  and  there  are  i  or  2  Ibs.  of  albumin- 
bids.-  In  all,  too,  there  is  a  considerable  amount  of  cellulose  and  woody 
fibre,  both  of  which  are  indigestible.  We  must  ascribe  their  chief 
value  to  the  salts  they  contain  and  to  the  value  of  variety  in  food. 
They  also  introduce  into  the  system  some  water,  necessary  for  digestion 
and  assimilation.  It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that,  by  the  manner  of 
cooking  vegetables  that  prevails  in  this  country,  a  great  part  of  these 
salts  is  dissolved  in  water  and  thrown  away,  only  the  vegetable  itself 
being  eaten.  All  vegetables  are  best  when  they  are  grown  quickly, 
in  which  case  they  have  less  woody  fibre.  Sometimes  light  is  excluded, 
for  light  leads  to  the  development  of  chlorophyll,  and  also  of  the  char- 
acteristic principle  of  the  plant,  which  is  often  unpleasantly  pungent 
and  occasionally  unwholesome. 

Fresh  Vegetables. — All  green  vegetables  should  be  as  fresh  as  possible. 
A  large  number  of  those  sold  in  towns  are  plucked  days  before,  full 
of  sap,  and  stacked  in  heaps  under  circumstances  the  most  favourable 
to  fermentation,  and  sufficiently  accounts  for  the  unpleasant  results 
often  experienced  after  eating  cabbages,  etc.,  in  such  a  state. 

Dried  Vegetables.- — Many  vegetables  are  now  sold  dried  and  compressed. 
Sliced  carrots,  turnips,  cauliflowers,  etc.,  suitable  for  julienne  soups, 
or  stews,  are  often  useful  to  the  housewife  when  such  vegetables  are 
out  of  season  and  dear,  and  also  when  economy  of  time  is  necessary, 


VEGETABLES. 


Shallots.  Muslm  »  r.ir>nij>.  1  l"r-( -radish,  Carrots,  Sea-kale, 

Cucumber, Sorrc-l,  Tarragon,  Celery,  Mustard,  Ci 


;: 


DD' 


DRESSED    VEGETABLES, 


i.  Wafer  Potatoes.          2.  Spinach  Souffles.          3.  Stuffed  Tomatoes. 


5~ 


GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS    QjN    VEGETABLES     809 

but  they  are  not  as  well  flavoured  as  the  fresh  vegetable.  Granulated 
potato,  sold  in  packets,  is  a  preparation  that  is  useful  in  the  same  wav. 
It  only  requires  to  have  boiling  water  poured  on  it,  and  in  ten  minutes 
is  ready  to  serve  as  mashed  potato,  or  to  be  made  into  fritters,  etc. 
Potatoes,  like  other  vegetables,  however,  are  now  sliced,  and 
porated  "  or  dried. 

Pulses  afford  the  most  nourishing  food  th.it  we  know.  Lentils, 
beans,  and  peas  in  point  of  nourishment  stand  in  the  order  in  which 
we  have  placed  them,  though  very  near  together,  lentils  heading  the 
list  with  14  per  cent,  of  water  and  24  per  cent,  of  casein.  The  well- 
known  Ravelcnta  Arabica  contains  lentil  flour,  generally  mixed  with 
barley  or  other  meal,  and  salt.  But  it  is  sold  at  many  times  the  price 
of  any  of  its  ingredients.  The  celebrated  sausage  served  out  to  tho 
German  troops  during  the  war  of  1870-71,  was  made  of  peas,  bacon 
and  onions.  Each  one  weighed  a  pound,  and  could  be  made  into  soup 
or  eaten  in  sausage  form.  They  were  easily  carried  and  kept,  and 
contained  the  proportions  of  the  various  kinds  of  food,  but 

we  are  told  that  the  men  tired  of  it  in  a  few  days.     It  appears  to  1 
fact  that  the  pulses  cannot  be  used  as  the  only  flesh-forming  food,. 
and  tak'-n  even  in  moderation  they  disagree  with  some  person 
ally,  i  if  so  prepared  that  the  tough  skin  is 

removed,  and  for  this  reason  there  is  no  way  of  cooki  more 

•  is  puree  soups,  where  they  require  for  nourishment's 
sake  no  addition  of  meat,  owing  to  the  amount  of  albuminoid,  which 
is  far  greater  than  in  meat  itself.     They  do  require  added  fat.     « 
peas  are  more  digestible,  but  :ng,  than  dried  or 

full-grown  peas,  which  require  prolonged  boiling  to  make  them  d 
tible.     Bi-carbonate  of  soda,  usually  added   to  green  vegetables   to 
preserve  the  colour,  at  the  same  time  softens  the  cellulose.     Conse- 
quently it  is  a  useful  addition  to  old  green  peas,  or  to  any   of   the 
dried   pulses. 

iv  varieties  of  dried  beans  are  sold,  and  all,  considered  as  food, 
have  much  the  same  value.  French  beans  are  eaten  in  an  unripe  state, 
pod  and  young  seeds  together,  in  wliich  state  they  more  nearly  approach 
to  other  green  vegetables  than  to  the  dried  pulses. 

Us   are   of   two   kinds,  the  orange-coloured  Egyptian  and   the 
browner  German  lentil.      The  former   is    cheaper,  the  lat 

:rcd. 

and  lentil  flour  is  often  adulterated  with  other  flour,  which 
climi:.  lue. 

nerally  contain  no  flesh-forming  or  heat-giving  material, 
but  i  valuable  because  they  introduce  into  the  system  large 

quantities  of  saline  •  llv  removed  from 

in  the  process  of  cooking.     Their  value  in  this  way  to  the  poo; 

mts  of  our  t<»\\ns  is  scarcely  to  be  <1.      Suiliricnt  care 

is  not.  d  upon  cleansing  them,  and  t! 


Sio         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

no  doubt  that  parasitic  animals  are  sometimes  introduced  into  the 
human  body  through  such  negligence.  They  need  to  be  freshly 
gathered  in  order  to  be  wholesome,  although  they  may  regain  some  of 
their  crispness  if  the  stalks  are  freshly  cut  and  placed  under  water; 
Many  salad  plants  contain  some  essential  oil,  to  which  their  character- 
istic flavour  and  odour  are  due.  Lettuce  has,  besides,  a  small  quantity 
of  mild  narcotic,  the  effects  of  which  may  occasionally  be  observed. 

Fungi  are  comparatively  little  used  in  this  country,  although  they  are 
plentiful  and  highly  nutritious.  Only  three  kinds  are  commonly 
considered  as  good  for  food,  and  of  these  only  one  can  be  said  to  be 
usually  eaten.  These  are  the  mushroom,  agaricus  campestris;  the 
morel,  morchella  esculenta;  and  the  truffle,  tuber  cibarium.  No  doubt 
there  are  many  other  edible  kinds,  but  the  prejudice  against  them  is 
strong,  and  the  difficulty  of  distinguishing  between  edible  and  poisonous 
kinds  prevents  these  foods  from  being  more  generally  utilized.  It 
seems,  too,  as  if  even  the  edible  kinds  might  become  poisonous  under 
certain  special  conditions.  Mushrooms  contain  much  nitrogen  and 
also  much  fat,  and  they  are  less  watery  than  most  of  the  vegetables 
of  which  we  have  spoken. 

Lichens  have  not  often  been  used  as  food.  Iceland  moss  is  used  as 
a  food  for  invalids,  and  is  nourishing.  It  grows  where  nothing  else  will 
grow,  on  barren  rocks  in  northern  latitudes. 

Seaweeds  are  occasionally  employed  as  food  in  England.  Irish  moss, 
or  carra  geen,  is  given  in  the  form  of  soups  and  jellies  to  consumptive 
patients,  and  is  also  used  commonly  as  a  food  in  some  places.  In 
100  Ibs.  of  the  moss  there  are  only  19  Ibs.  of  water  and  9  Ibs.  of  albumin- 
oids, so  that  it  is  among  the  most  nourishing  vegetable  foods  we  have. 
Laver,  tangle,  or  red  ware,  and  pulse,  are  also  collected  and  eaten  in 
pickle,  or  as  a  substitute  for  other  boiled  vegetables. 

LITTLE  KNOWN   VEGETABLES 

There  are  many  delicious  vegetables  which  may  be  procured  without 
much  difficulty,  and  yet  hardly  seem  to  be  known  to  the  average 
housewife.  Notwithstanding  this,  we  so  often  hear  the  cry  for  greater 
variety.  To  those  really  anxious  to  extend  their  list  of  nourishing 
and  appetising  viands  we  can  recommend  sorrel,  scorzonera,  sweet 
potato,  and  maize  (all  of  which  may  be  grown  in  England),  yams, 
egg-plants,  and  custard  apples.  Sorrel  is  not  much  used  except  as  a 
flavouring  herb  for  soups,  but  if  carefully  picked,  washed,  thoroughly 
boiled,  then  beaten  and  passed  through  a  sieve,  and  served  whipped 
with  butter  or  cream,  it  rivals  spinach,  especially  as  an  accompaniment 
to  veal  or  poached  eggs.  It  is  a  most  wholesome  vegetable,  and  can 
be  grown  easily.  Scorzonera  is  a  long  black  root,  with  a  white  in- 
terior; boiled  and  served  with  melted  butter,  it  possesses  a  pleasant 
mucilaginous  flavour.  It  is  an  Italian  root,  but  flourishes  here. 

Sweet    potatoes    deserve    to    receive  more  intelligent  attention  in 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  VEGETABLES   811 

the  kitchen.  They  can  be  served  up  like  Jerusalem  artichokes. 
Maize,  although  it  will  hardly  ripen  in  these  islands,  except  in 
an  exceptionally  hot  summer,  can  be  cultivated  in  the  south- 
ern counties  and  in  sunny  sheltered  spots.  It  is  a  very  grace- 
ful plant,  and  the  cobs  reach  sufficient  maturity  to  furnish  the 
"  green-pea  "  maize.  Riper  cobs  are  imported  from  the  Continent 
and  the  Canaries.  There  are  many  hundred  varieties  of  maize,  the 
grains  ranging  from  soft  pulp  of  almost  pure  white,  through  different 
stages  of  yellow,  to  a  blood  red  and  a  purple  black.  The  most  useful 
kinds  are  the  sweet  yellow.  The  grains  when  full-sized  and  just  turning 
yellowish-green,  may  be  removed  from  the  cobs  and  treated  like  green 
peas,  or  the  cobs  may  be  stewed;  when  the  grains  have  turned  yellow 
and  begin  to  harden,  the  cobs  may  be  roasted,  sprinkled  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  basted  with  oiled  butter.  Yams  are  very  delicious; 
they  grow  to  a  large  size,  and  are  now  imported  from  the  West  Indies. 
They  may  be  roasted,  or  treated  like  artichokes.  Custard  apples  also 

us  in  fine  condition  from  the  West  Indies,  and  should  be  served 
in  the  same  way  as  vegetable  marrows.  Egg  plants  (the  much-prized 
bringauls  of  India)  are  imported  from  the  Continent  and  the  Canarirs. 
They  possess  a  delicate  flavour,  a  large  amount  of  nourishing  sub- 
stances, and  may  be  cooked  in  many  ways.  Pumpkins  might  also 
be  used  more  often  by  town  dwellers,  both  for  making  puree  soups 
on  damp  and  bleak  autumn  days,  and  pies.  In  certain  country  dis- 
tricts the  young  shoots  of  hops  are  treated  like  asparagus  with  very 

ictory  results.     In  Provence  the  midribs  of  beet  leaves  are  peeled, 
dipped  in  egg  batter,  and  fried.     They  make  a  dainty  dish.     So  do 
the   male   flowers  of   the   vegetable-marrows,   stuffed   with  parboiled 
rice,  mixed  with  a  little  cheese  and  shredded  meat,  and  then  M 
gently  in  gravy. 


itfc 


RECIPES   FOR  COOKING 
S:*!v    VEGETABLES. 

CHAPTER    XXX 

The  time  vegetables  take  to  boil  depends  on  their  age.  Young  vege- 
tables with  tender  fibres  will,  as  a  rule,  cook  in  about  20  minutes, 
whereas  those  fully  matured,  and  consequently  containing  a 
relatively  larger  amount  of  fibrous  substance,  will  average  no  less 
than  40  minutes.  The  colour  of  green  vegetables  may  be  preserved 
by  adding  a  little  soda  to  the  water  in  which  they  are  boiled.  The 
discoloration  is  due  to  hard  water  holding  in  solution  a  certain 
amount  of  lime,  which  is  destroyed  by  the  addition  of  a  little  soda, 
thereby  softening  the  water  and  preserving  the  colour  of  the  vege- 
tables. As  soon  as  the  vegetables  are  sufficiently  cooked  they 
should  be  removed  from  the  saucepan  and  drained,  otherwise  they 
absorb  water,  lose  some  of  their  flavour,  and  become  discoloured. 

GENERAL  RULES  FOR  BOILING  VEGETABLES. 

All  vegetables  should  be  put  into  boiling  water,  to  which  salt  should 
be  added  in  the  proportion  of  I  tablespoonful  to  2  quarts  of  water. 
The  salt  greatly  improves  the  flavour  of  the  vegetables,  and  it  also 
raises  the  boiling  point  of  the-  water,  thus  tending  to  preserve  their 
colour.  Plenty  of  water  should  be  used  for  green  vegetables,  and  a 
little  soda  to  soften  the  water  and  counteract  the  hardening  effect 
of  the  salt.  All  vegetables  must  be  kept  boiling,  but  Jerusalem 
artichokes,  vegetable  marrows,  and  others  of  a  similar  character, 
must  be  boiled  more  gently  than  cabbage  and  other  greens,  otherwise 
they  may  break.  As  soon  as  the  vegetables  are  sufficiently  cooked  the 
water  should  be  drained  from  them,  for  some  are  liable  to  break,  and 
one  and  all  become  watery  when  kept  in  the  water  after  they  are 
done.  They  may,  however,  be  covered  with  a  cloth,  and  kept  hot 
in  a  colander  placed  over  an  empty  iron  saucepan  for  a  consider- 
able time  without  injury. 

GENERAL  RULES  FOR  STEWING  VEGETABLES. 

The  long,  slow  process  of  stewing  is  not  often  applied  to  green  vege- 
tables, for  it  would  destroy  their  colour,  but  celery,  celeriac,  salsify, 
and  cardons  are  frequently  stewed,  the  method  being  peculiarly  adapted 
to  them  when  old.  Very  little  stock  or  water  should  be  used,  and  the 
vessel  containing  these  vegetables  must  be  kept  closely  covered  to 
prevent  the  escape  of  the  steam,  which  helps  to  cook  them. 

I435.—ARTICHOKES,  BOILED.     (Fr.—  Artichauts  au 
Nature!.  ) 

Ingredients.  —  2-3  Globe  artichokes,  salt,  Hollandaise  or  other  suitable 
sauce. 

812 


RECIPES  FOR  COOKING   VEGETABLES  813 

Method. — Wash  the  artichokes  in  several  waters,  cut  of!  the  stems, 
and,  if  necessary,  trim  the  leaves.  Put  them  into  boiling  water,  add 
about  i  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each  quart  of  water,  and  if  the  water  be 
hard,  or  the  vegetable  old,  also  add  a  piece  of  soda,  the  size  of  a  Spanish 
nut.  Keep  the  saucepan  uncovered,  and  boil  quickly  from  25  to  30 
minutes,  or  until  the  vegetables  are  tender.  Drain  well,  and 
with  Hollaiulaise,  white,  or  other  suitable  sauce,  or,  if  preferred,  oiled 
butter. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  3d.  to  6d.  each. 
Seasonable,  from  July  to  October. 

K  PLANTS.— This  natural  order  is  the  most  extensive  and  un 
irrbs  and  shrubs.     The  flowers  are  monopctalou*.  and  from  the  forth  of  its  corolla  are 

:     ::::<•«  n. itur.il  groups  or  sub-orders  :  Tttbuli floras,  Labuttiflorat,  and  l.tgultfioraf  ;  tin-  List 
•  •  this  order,  which  grow  in  colder  and  temperate  cl; 

•inpositae  are  many  i.muh.ir  .tu«J  uv.-:ul 
a*  the  daiv  r.kory,  lettuce,  artichoke,  arnica,  choiuoiuile,  etc. 

1436.— ARTICHOKES,       FRENCH       METHOD      OF 
COOKING.  (Fr. — Artichauts  aux  Fines  Herbes.) 

Ingredients. — Globe  artichokes,  a  small  bunch  ol  savoury  herbs,  salt, 

Method.-  iiokes  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 

them  in  .iter,  add  the  herbs  and  a  little  salt,  boil  until 

with  oiled  butter. 

Time. — To  cook  the  artichokes,  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  .;<!. 
to  6d.  each.  Allow  -J  a  large  artichoke  or  i  small  one  to  each  person. 
Seasonable  irom  July  to  October. 

1437.— ARTICHOKES,  FRIED.  (Fr.— Artichauts  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — 6  artichokes.  For  the  batter  :  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  i  table-spoonful  of  salad-oil,  i  egg, 

Method. — Trim  and  boil  the  artichokes  as  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
\Vlu-n  they  are  quite  tender  take  them  up,  remove  the  fibrous  internal 

hoke,"  and  divide  the  bottoms  into  3  or  4  \~. 

according  to  size.     Mix  the  flour,  salt,  salad-oil,  milk  and  yolk  of  the 
egg  smoothly  t<  1  for  a  time.     \Vh.  :o  use, 

10  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  it  lightly  into  the  batter.     I  lave 
a  deep  pan  of  boiling  fat,  dip  the  pieces  of  artichoke  into  the 
.  take  them  out  on  the  point  of  a  skewer,  drop  them  into  the 
fat,  and  fry  light-brown.     Garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serv< 
white  sauce. 

Time. — 25  to  30  minutes   to  boil  the  artichokes;  5  to  7  minutes  to 
fry    them.     Average    Cost,  from   is.   lod.  to  35.     Sufficient   for    5  or  6 
>ns.     Seasonable  from  July  to  October. 

r  PROPERTIES  or  THE  ARTICHOKE.-  Th«-v  nrc  in  i.ooo  parts— starch,  30  ;  albumen,  10  ; 
:i«  matter,  1 1  woody  fibre.  12  ;  inorganic  matter,  .- 

•   ;  -  in  \shic  li  they 

grow. 


814  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

1438.— ARTICHOKES  WITH    MUSHROOM    SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Artichauts  aux  Champignons.) 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  Globe  artichokes,  £  a  Ib.  of  mushrooms,  ^  a  pint  of 
white  sauce,  No.  223,  i  oz.  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Trim  the  artichokes,  cut  them  into  quarters,  and  boil  them 
until  tender  in  slightly  salted  water.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
peel  and  trim  the  mushrooms,  fry  them  very  gently  for  about  15 
minutes,  then  add  the  white  sauce,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  stir 
the  ingredients  until  they  boil.  Drain  the  artichokes,  arrange  them 
on  the  dish  in  a  circle,  with  the  leaves  outwards,  and  pour  the  mush- 
room sauce  in  the  centre. 

Time. — From  30  to  40  minutes,  to  boil  the  artichokes.  Average  Cost, 
about  2S.  6d.  Sufficient  for  8  or  10  persons.  Seasonable  from  July  to 
October. 

1439.— ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM,  BOILED. 

(Fr. — Topinambours  au  Nature!. ) 

Ingredients. — 1£  to  2  Ibs.  Jerusalem  Artichokes,  vinegar,  salt,  water, 
white  sauce  or  melted  butter  sauce  (see  Sauces). 

Method. — Wash  the  artichokes  and  peel  them,  put  them  at  once 
into  the  vinegar  and  water  to  preserve  their  colour.  Have  ready  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  to  each  quart  allow  a  heaped  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  put  in  the  artichokes,  and  boil 
gently  for  about  20  minutes.  They  should  be  tried  frequently  after 
a  £  of  an  hour,  as  they  are  apt  to  break  and  become  discoloured  if 
overcooked.  Drain  well,  and  serve  in  a  hot  vegetable  dish,  with  the 
sauce  poured  over. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2d.  or  3d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
from  October  to  June. 

USES  OF  THE  JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE.— This  tuberous  rooted  plant,  with  its  leafy  stem,  from  four 
to  six  feet  in  height,  affords  excellent  fodder  for  cattle.  The  tubers  are  also  used  as  a  nutritious 
culinary  vegetable.  The  fibres  of  the  stem  can  be  separated  by  maceration,  and  manufactured  into 
cordage  or  cloth  ;  an  operation  carried  on  in  some  parts  of  the  north  and  west  of  France.  The  leaves 
form  a  convenient  material  for  the  packing  of  fruit.  One  drawback  to  the  cultivation  of  artichokes 
in  gardens  is  that  if  the  soil  is  favourable  to  them,  they  spread  rapidly,  and  are  difficult  to  keep  within 
bounds.  The  artichoke  is  a  pleasantly  flavoured  and  nourishing  vegetable. 

1440.— ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM,  FRIED. 

(Fr. — Topinambours  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — Jerusalem  artichokes,  frying-batter. 

Method. — Prepare  and  parboil  the  artichokes,  cut  them  into  rather 
thick  slices,  and  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Make  the  batter 
as  directed  in  recipe  No.  1437,  dip  in  the  slices  of  artichokes,  fry  them  until 
nicely  browned  in  hot  fat,  and  drain  well.  Garnish  with  crisply-fried 
parsley,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — To  parboil  the  artichokes,  20  minutes  after  the  water  boils; 
to  fry  them,  6  or  7  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2d.  to  3d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
from  October  to  June. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   VEGETABLES  815 

1441.— ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM,  FRIED. 

(Fr. — Topinambours  Frits.)  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Artichokes,  frying-fat  or  oil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  peel  the  artichokes,  drain  them  thoroughly,  and  cut 
them  into  thin  slices.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat  or  oil,  and  fry 
the  slices  in  a  basket,  a  few  at  a  time.  Drain  well,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  serve  them  as  hot  and  as  crisp  as  possible. 

Time. — About  20  minutes,  to  fry  the  artichokes.  Average  Cost,  2d. 
to  3d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  from  October  to  June. 

1442.— ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM,  MASHED. 

(Fr. — Puree  de  Topinambours.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  artichokes,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  peel,  and  boil  the  artichokes  in  the  same  manner  as 
potatoes.  Drain  well,  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  replace  them 
in  the  stcwpan  with  the  butter,  cream  and  pepper,  stir  over  the  fire 
until  the  puree  is  quite  hot,  then  servo. 

Time. — From  30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  2d.  to  3d.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  from  October  to  June. 

1443.— ARTICHOKES,  JERUSALEM,  WITH   WHITE 
SAUCE.    (Fr. — Topinambours,  Sauce  Blanche.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  artichokes,  i  quart  of  water  (about),  i  heaped 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  i  teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  £  a  pint  of  white  sauce. 

Method. — Wash,  peel,  and  trim  the  artichokes  to  a  cone  shape. 
Add  the  salt  and  vinegar  to  the  water  when  boiling,  put  in  the  arti- 
chokes, and  boil  for  about  20  minutes.  Drain  well,  serve  in  a  hot 
vegetable  dish,  and  pour  over  the  hot  white  sauce. 

Time.— About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  2d.  to  3d.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  from  October  to  June. 

THF  JERTSALFM  ARTICHOKE. — (Fr.  iopinatnbovr)  This  w- '  .t,  which  derives  its  name 

from  the  Italian  girasolf.  a  sunflower,  w  •  <1  in  th«>  s:\ 

'.en  vegetable  a  an  a^ri<  nltnnl  rn-p.     ! 

it  is  much  esteemed  as  an  e-  .  various  ways,  and  domesticated 

eat  both  the  fresh  foliage  and  the  tubers  with  much  relish. 

1444. — ASPARAGUS,  BOILED.  (Fr. — Asperges  au 
Naturel.) 

Ingredients. —  i  bundle  asparagus,  salt,  water,  toast. 

Method.  Scrape  the  white  part  of  the  stems,  beginning  from  the 
head,  tie  them  into  bundles  of  abmil  20  each,  keeping  all  the  heads 
in  one  direction.  Cut  the  stalks  ev<  nlv,  and  keep  the  asparagus  in 
cold  water  until  it  is  time  to  cook  it.  1  lave  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  add  a  heaped  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each  quart  of  water,  put  in 
the  asparagus,  and  boil  gently  for  about  20  minutes,  or  until  tender. 


S;6  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Dish  on  toast,  and.  serve  with  Hollandaise,  white,  or  other  suitable 
sauce,  or,  if  preferred,  oiled  butter. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  2s.  to  33.  6d.  per  100 
heads.  Seasonable  from  April  to  July. 

ASPARAGUS  (Fr.  asperges). — This  plant,  which  belongs  to  the  natural  order  Liliaceae,  is  a  native  of 
Great  Britain.  It  is  found  growing  on  various  parts  of  the  sea  coast,  and  in  the  fens  of  Lincolnshire, 
but  it  is  smaller  in  size  than  the  cultivated  plant.  At  Kynance  Cove,  in  Cornwall,  there  is  a  rocky 
island  called  "  Asparagus  Island,"  from  the  circumstance  that  this  plant  was  once  cultivated  there. 
Asparagus  is  raised  from  seed,  and  the  plants  are  usually  allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  for  three 
years  before  being  cut,  after  which  they  yield  an  annual  supply. 

1445.— ASPARAGUS   WITH   EGGS.      (Fr.— Asperges 
aux  Oeufs.) 

Ingredients. — 50  heads  of  asparagus,  i  pint  of  milk  (or  equal  quantities 
of  milk  and  water),  i  large  head  of  lettuce  finely-shredded,  i  medium- 
sized  onion  parboiled  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  i  bay-leaf,  2  or  3  sprigs 
of  thyme,  i^  ozs.  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper,  6  or  8  nicely  poached 
eggs. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  tops  of  the  asparagus,  and  keep  them  in  cold 
water  until  wanted.  Bring  the  milk  to  boiling  point,  put  in  the  stalks 
of  the  asparagus,  lettuce,  onion,  bay-leaf,  thyme,  and  salt,  simmer 
gently  for  about  20  minutes,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  slightly,  theri  add  the 
puree  of  vegetables,  the  milk  in  which  they  wefe  cooked,  and  stir 
the  mixture  until  it  boils.  Cool  slightly,  then  add  the  yolks  of  eggs, 
and  cook  gently  until  they  thicken,  stirring  meanwhile.  Prepare 
the  asparagus  tops  by  boiling  them  from  10  to  15  minutes,  and  poach 
the  eggs  and  trim  them  to  a  nice  round  shape.  Add  the  lemon-juice 
to  the  puree,  season  to  taste,  pour  it  down  the  middle  of  a  hot  dish, 
arrange  the  eggs  on  either  side,  and  garnish  the  top  of  the  puree  in  the 
space  between  the  two  rows  of  eggs  with  the  asparagus  points. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  35.  9d.  to  43.  6d. 
Seasonable  from  April  to  July. 

1446.— ASPARAGUS,    FRENCH    STYLE.       (Fr.— As- 
perges a  la  Bonne  Femme.) 

Ingredients. — i  bundle  or  100  heads  of  asparagus,  i  pint  of  milk 
(or  equal  quantities  of  milk  and  water),  i  head  of  lettuce  finely  shredded 
and  cut  into  short  lengths,  i  medium-sized  onion  parboiled  and  finely- 
chopped,  i  bay  leaf,  one  sprig  of  thyme,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
salt  and  pepper,  croutes  of  buttered  toast  or  fried  bread,  chopped 
parsley,  strips  of  cucumber. 

Method. — Wash  and  trim  the  asparagus,  and  tie  it  into  3  or  4  bundles. 
Bring  the  milk  to  boiling  point,  put  in  the  asparagus,  lettuce,  onion. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    VEuZTABLES  817 

bay-leaf,  thyme,  and  salt,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  20  minutes. 
Drain  the  asparagus  well,  cut  off  the  points  and  the  edible  parts  of  the 
stalks,  and  keep  them  hot.  Strain  the  milk  and  return  it  to  the  stew- 
pan,  add  the  butter  and  flour  previously  kneaded  together,  and  stir 
until  a  smooth  sauce  is  obtained.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  slightly, 
add  them  to  the  sauce,  and  stir  until  they  thicken,  but  do  not  allow 
the  sauce  to  boil,  or  the  yolks  may  curdle.  Season  to  taste,  and  add 
the  lemon-juice.  Pile  the  asparagus  on  the  croutes,  cover  with  sauce, 
garnish  with  strips  of  cucumber,  and  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and 
serve  as  a  vegetable  cntremet,  or  as  an  entree  for  a  vegetarian  dinner. 

Time.— From  v>  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  55.  6d.  to  75.     Season- 
able from  April  to  July. 

. — Not  only  is' this  plant  valuable  as  a  wholesome  and  nutritious 

.••  presence  of  a  crystalline  substance.  ••• 
e.     The  cb« 

Tig?  jM^gmflwiWfy  *c<  **&  «.TUUI  yH* 

The  cellular  tissue  r 

1447.— ASPARAGUS,  INDIAN  STYLE.   (Fr.— Asperges 
a  1'Indienne.) 

Ingredients. — Asparagus,  curry  sauce  (  '.241). 

Method.  .  cook   and    d  iragus    (s^  A 

v.th   a    little  curry  sauce,  either  pou:  the 

points,  (ir  handed  round  scpar. 

1448.— ASPARAGUS  POINTS,  OR  PEAS.  (Fr.— Pointes 
d'Asperges.) 

Ingredients. — Green  asparagus,  oiled  butter,  pep} 
Method. — Cut  the  points  and  the  tender  green  parts  of  the  a> 
gus  into    short   pieces,   place   them   in   slightly-salted   b» 

1  cook  gently  from    5    to  10  minutes,  according  to  size  and  . 
Drain  well,  put  the  asparagus  into  a  stewpan  containing  a  little  oiled 
•.or,  sprinkle  with  pepper,  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then 

is  a  garnish  or  1 1  is  a  mistake  to  add  any  tl 

that  will  iim  ite  flavour  of  the  asparagus,  but  someti; 

-.re  fried  in  tlv  butter  before  put; 

in  thr  ;•  dish  may  be  still  turr  Birring 

in,  just  before  serving.  tablespoon fuls  of  good  white  sauce, 

!'%spoonfuls  of  thick  cream  and  a  yolk  of  egg. 

Time. — To  boil  the  asparagus,  from  minutes.     Average  Cost, 

2s.  6d.  to  i os.  6d.  per  100.     Allow  100  points  for  6   or   8   persons. 
Seasonable  from  April  to  July;  ob' 

1449.     ASPARAGUS     PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding 

d'Asperges.) 

Ingredients. — |of  a  pint  of  asparagus  points,  4  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls 


8i8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  very  finely-minced  ham,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  milk. 

Method. — Cut  up  the  nice  green  lender  parts  of  asparagus,  about  the 
size  of  peas,  put  them  into  a  basin  with  the  eggs,  which  should  be  well 
beaten,  and  the  flour,  ham,  butter,  pepper  and  salt.  Mix  all  these 
ingredients  well  together,  and  moisten  with  sufficient  milk  to  make  the 
pudding  of  a  consistency  of  thick  butter.  Put  it  into  a  pint  buttered 
mould,  tie  it  down  tightly  with  a  floured  cloth,  place  it  in  boiling  water, 
and  let  it  boil  for  2  hours.  Turn  it  out  of  the  mould  on  to  a  hot  dish, 
and  pour  plain  melted  butter  round,  but  not  over  the  pudding. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  33.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  July. 

1450.— ASPARAGUS  ROLLS.     (Fr.— Petits   Pains   aux 
Asperges.) 

Ingredients. — 50  heads  of  asparagus,  6  small  French  rolls,  \  a  pint 
of  milk,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  crust  from  the  bottom  of  each  roll,  scoop  out 
the  inside,  and,  if  convenient,  fry  them  in  hot  fat,  if  not,  crisp  them 
in  the  oven.  Boil  the  asparagus  in  the  usual  way,  then  cut  off  the  points 
and  keep  them  hot,  and  rub  the  stalks  through  a  fine  sieve.  Heat  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  slightly,  then  add  the 
milk,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Put  in  the  puree  of  asparagus  and  yolks 
of  eggs,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
until  the  mixture  thickens,  but  it  must  not  be  allowed  to  boil  or  the  eggs 
may  curdle.  Fill  the  rolls,  piling  the  preparation  rather  high,  garnish 
the  top  of  each  one  with  asparagus  points,  and  serve  as  a  vegetable 
entremet,  luncheon  dish,  or  vegetarian  entree. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  35.  to  45.  Seasonable 
from  April  to  July. 

1451.— BEANS,    FRENCH,    BOILED.     (Fr.— Haricots 
Verts  au  Natural.) 

Ingredients. — French  beans,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  heads,  tails,  and  a  thin  strip  on  each  side  of  the 
beans,  so  as  to  remove  the  string.  Cut  the  beans  in  a  slanting  direction 
into  slips,  and,  as  they  are  cut,  drop  them  into  cold  water.  Have  ready 
a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  add  i  heaped  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each 
quart  of  water,  and  a  small  piece  of  soda  if  the  beans  are  old.  Put  in 
the  beans,  keep  the  saucepan  uncovered,  and  boil  briskly  from  15  to  25 
minutes,  according  to  age.  Drain  well,  sprinkle  with  pepper,  then 
serve. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  819 

Time. — To  boil  the  beans,  from  15  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from 
3d.  to  is.  per  lb.,  according  to  season.  Seasonable  from  July  to  October. 

THE  GOLDEN  BEAX. — It  is  much  esteemed  in  Germany,  but  is  little  known  in  England.  It  is  sown 
ear.'y  in  June,  and  becomes  a  bright  golden  hue  in  September.  It  should  hang  on  the  plant  until 
perfectly  ripe.  Both  the  pod  and  bean  are  eaten,  and  have  a  delicious  taste. 

1452.— BEANS,    FRENCH   METHOD  OF  COOKING. 
(Fr.— Haricots  Verts,  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  French  beans,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  the  juice  of  £  a 
lemon,  a  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  and  boil  the  beans  as  in  the  preceding  recipe;  when 
tender  drain  them  into  a  stewpan,  and  shake  over  the  fire  until  the 
greater  part  of  the  moisture  has  evaporated.  Add  the  butter,  parsley, 
lemon-juice,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  toss  over  the  fire  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  2d.  per  lb.  Season- 
able from  July  to  October;  obtainable  all  the  year. 

ORIGIN  AND  VARIETIES  or  THE  BEAN.— It  is  uncertain  from  what  region  the  bean  was  introduced 
into  other  rmmtrie*  ;  ].r..l<.iMv  it  first  came  from  Asia.  The  bean  was  cultivated  in  ancient 
Egypt,  and  in  Europe  and  Asia  from  time  immemorial,  and  it  has  been  long  known  in  Britain.  Its 
nun  '*  inclu.Ul  under  the  general  divisions— the  white  or  garden-beans,  and 

the  crcy  or  field-beans.     Of  the  former,  ar  •  the  Wm.!>->r.  th<-  M.i/  man,  and  long  pod  ;  of  the  latter, 
the  h<.rs<-b« -an,  .m«l  the  small  or  ticks,  are  the  principal  sorts.     New  varieties  are  produced  in  the 

.1-  111  ot'.ltT   j 

1453.— BEETROOTS,  BAKED. 

See  Beetroot,  Boiled.     Recipe  No.  1454. 

1454.— BEETROOT,    BOILED.       (Fr.— Betterave    au 
Naturel.) 

Ingredients. — Beetroot,     boiling    water. 

Method. — \\hen  large,  young  and  juicy,  this  vegetable  makes  a  very 
excellent  addition  to  winter  salads,  and  may  easily  be  converted  into 
an  economical  and  quickly-made  pickle  (see  Pickles).  Beetroot  is 
more  frequently  served  cold  than  hot:  when  the  latter  mode  is  pre- 
ferred, melted  butter  should  be  sent  to  table  with  it.  Beetroot  may 
also  be  stewed  with  button  onions,  or  boiled  and  served  with  baked 
onions.  Wash  the  beets  thoroughly,  but  'do  not  prick  or  break  the 
skins  before  they  are  cooked,  or  they  will  lose  some  of  their  beautiful 
colour  in  boiling.  Put  them  into  boiling  water,  and  let  them  boil 
until  tender,  keeping  them  well  covered.  If  the  beets  are  to  be  served 
hot,  rub  off  the  peel  quickly,  cut  the  beet  into  thick  slices,  and  send 
to  tablr  with  melted  butter.  For  salads,  pickle,  etc., let  the  root  cool, 
then  peel  by  rubbing,  and  cut  into  slices. 

Time.— Small  beetroot,  i£  to  2  hours;  large,  2$  to  3  hours.  Average 
Cost,  id.  to  3d.  each.  Seasonable,  at  any  time. 


&*>  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Note.— In  boiling  beetroot  great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  damage  the  skin 
otherwise  it  will  "  bleed,"  becoming  white  and  tasteless.  Should  the  skin 
be  accidentally  broken  it  is  better  to  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  previ- 
ously covering  the  damaged  parts  with  a  little  flour  paste. 

BEETROOT  (Fr.  betterave). — The  geographical  distribution  of  the  natural  order,  Chonopodiaceae,  to 
which  the  beetroot  belongs,  is  most  common  in  extra  tropical  and  temperate  regions,  where  such  plants 
grow  as  weeds,  frequenting  waste  places,  and  on  marshes  by  the  sea  shore.  They  are  characterized 
by  the  large  quantity  of  mucilage,  sugar,  starch,  and  alkaline  salts  which  are  found  in  them.  Many 
are  used  as  pot-herbs'/and  some  are  medicinally  valuable  as  vermifuges  and  emetics.  The  root  of  the 
red  beet  is  very  wholesome  and  nutritious.  From  the  white  beet  sugar  is  obtained,  and  the  manufac- 
ture of  beet-sugar  is  an  important  industry  in  France,  Germanv,  Belgium,  Holland,  and  other 
countries.  Excellent  beer  is  produced  from  the  beet,  which  also  yields  a  spirit  of  good  quality. 

1455.— BEETROOTS,  STEWED. 

See  Beetroot,  Boiled.     Recipe  No.  1454. 

1456.— BROAD,  OR  WINDSOR  BEANS.    (Fr.— Feves 
a  la  Maitre  d' Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — i  peck  broad  or  Windsor  beans,  salted  water,  parsley 
sauce  (see  Sauces). 

Method. — This  favourite  vegetable  to  be  nice  should  be  young  and 
freshly  gathered.  After  shelling  the  beans,  put  them  into  boiling 
water,  salted  to  taste,  and  boil  rapidly  until  tender.  Drain 
them  well  in  a  colander  ;  dish,  and  serve  separately  a  boat 
of  parsley  sauce.  Boiled  bacon  often  accompanies  this  vegetable, 
but  should  be  cooked  separately.  This  dish  is  usually  served  with 
the  beans  laid  round  the  bacon,  and  the  parsley  butter  sauce  in  a  tureen. 
Beans  also  make  an  excellent  garnish  to  a  ham:  when  used  for  this 
purpose  they  should  have  their  skins  removed. 

Time. — Very  young  beans,  15  minutes;  when  of  a  moderate  size, 
2*6  to  25  minutes,  or  longer.  Average  Cost,  unshelled,  6d.  to  lod.  per  peck. 
Allow  i  peck  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  in  July  and  August. 

1457.— BROAD    BEANS,    WITH   PARSLEY    SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Feves  a  la  Poulette.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  of  broad  beans,  •£  a  pint  of  stock,  a  small  bunch 
of  savoury  herbs,  including  parsley,  a  small  lump  of  sugar,  the  yolk 
of  i  egg,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Procure  some  young  and  freshly  gathered  beans,  and  shell 
sufficient  to  make  2  pints;  boil  them,  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  until 
nearly  done,  then  drain  them  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  the 
stock,  finely-minced  herbs,  and  sugar.  Stew  the  beans  until  they  are 
perfectly  tender  and  the  liquor  has  reduced  a  little,  then  beat  up 
the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  the  cream,  and  add  this  to  the  beans.  Let  the 
whole  get  thoroughly  hot,  and,  when  on  the  point  of  simmering,  serve. 
Should  the  beans  be  very  large,  the  skins  should  be  removed  previously 
to  boiling  them;  they  are,  however,  more  quickly  removed  after  they 
are  boiled. 


RECIPES   FOR   COoKINV,    VEGETABLES  821 

Time. — 10  minutes  to  boil  the  beans,  15  minutes  to  stew  them  in  the 
Average  Cost,  unshelled,  6d.  to  lod.  per  peck.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.     Seasonable  in  July  and  August. 

1458.— BROAD     BEANS,    WITH    SPANISH    SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Feves  a  1'Espagnole.) 

Ingredients. —  i^  pints  of  shelled  beans,  J  of  a  pint  of  good  brown  stock, 
£  a  glass  of  sherry,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  small  onion  finely 
chopped,  i  teaspoon ful  of  fmcly-chop;  ley,  6  or  8  button  mush- 

rooms,  i   bay-leaf,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  thyme,  salt  and  pepper,  1 
juice. 

Method. — Shell  the  beans,  put  them 

for  6  or  7  minutes,  then  drain,  and  r<  tt  skins.    Have  the  stock 

ready  boiling  ii  ..Id  to  it  the  beans,  onion,  thyme,  and  bay- 

•  •asoii  with  salt   and  pepj».  :itly  fron: 

minutes,  according  to  tl  :  the  bcai:  .vhilc  fry  the  inush- 

for  a  few  minutes  in  the  hot  butter  without  K  t  hen  trans- 

fer them  to  the  stcwpan  containing  the  beans.     Add  the  flour  to  the 

er  the  fire  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour,  then 

in  the  su.ck  from  the  other  stewpan,  and  stir  until  a  perfectly  smooth 
sauce  is  obtained.     Season  to  taste,  add  the  parsley,  sherry  and  lemon- 
rooms,  and  when  thoroughly  hot.  serve. 
If  liked,  the  dish  may  be  garnished  with   tiny  rolls  of  cri^p! 

i,  croutes  of  1.  d,  or  potato  croutes  (see  recipe  No.  1576). 

The   sherry  and    mushrooms  may  be  omitted,   am!   the  dish    would 
then  be  Broad  Beans  with  Brown  Sai  <  tarians  could  substitute 

vegetable  stock  or  milk  for  the  meat  stock. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  jd.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  in  July  and  August. 

1459.— GOLDEN  BEANS. 

See  Lima,  or  Butter  Beans.    Recipe  No.  1525. 

1460.— BROCCOLI,  BOILED. 

Ingredients.— Broccoli.     To  each  $   gallon  of  water  allow  i   heaped 

^poonful  of  salt. 

Method.— Strip  off  the  dead  leaves,  and  cut  off  the  inside  ones  level 

with  t  i,  cut  off  the  stalk  close  to  the  bottom,  and  put  the 

broccoli  into  c<>  .or  vinegar  and  water  with  the  heads 

cmain  for  about  J  of  an  hour,  then  put  them  into 

a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  salted  in  the  above  proportion,  and 

and  the  saucepan  unco\ 

e  done;  drain  them  well, 
and  serve  with  a  t,  melted  bi.  'ttle  of  which  should  be 


822         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

poured  over  the  broccoli.  If  left  in  the  water  after  it  is  done,  the  broccoli 
will  break,  its  colour  will  be  spoiled,  and  its  crispness  lost.  If  boiled 
too  fast  they  break. 

Time. — Small  broccoli,  10  to  15  minutes;  large  broccoli,  20  to  30 
minutes.  Average  Cost,  2d.  to  3d.  each.  Seasonable  from  October  to  March. 

Note. — It  is  a  good  plan  to  place  a  small  piece  of  toast  or  crust  of  bread 
in  the  saucepan  in  which  any  vegetable  of  the  cabbage  tribe  is  boiled,  as  this 
absorbs  the  unpleasant  odour  generated  during  the  cooking. 

THE  KOHL-RABI,  OR  TURNIP  CABBAGE. — This  variety  presents  a  singular  development.  The  stem 
swells  out  like  a  large  turnip  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  the  leaves  shoot  from  it  all  round,  and 
the  top  is  surmounted  by  a  cluster  of  leaves.  If  used  when  young  and  tender,  the  Kohl-rabi  is  a 
wholesome  and  palatable  vegetable. 

1461.— BRUSSELS  SPROUTS,  BOILED.  (Fr.— Choux 
de  Bruxelles  a  la  Sauce  Blanche  au  Beurre, 
or,  Maitre  d' Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — Brussels  sprouts.  To  each  \  gallon  of  water  allow  i  heaped 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  a  very  small  piece  of  soda,  white  sauce  No.  222 
or  parsley  butter. 

Method. — Clean  the  sprouts  from  insects,  wash  them,  and  pick 
any  dead  or  discoloured  leaves  from  the  outsides  ;  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  with  salt  and  soda  in  the  above  proportion; 
keep  the  pan  uncovered,  and  let  them  boil  quickly  until  tender;  drain, 
dish,  and  serve  with  a  tureen  of  melted  butter:  maitre  d'hotel  sauce  is 
sometimes  poured  over  them.  Another  method  of  serving  is  to  toss 
the  sprouts  in  about  i  oz.  of  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt. 
They  must,  however,  be  sent  to  table  very  quickly,  for  on  account  of 
the  smallness  of  the  sprouts  this  vegetable  soon  cools. 

Time. — From  10  to  15  minutes,  after  the  water  boils.  Average  Cost, 
2d.  to  3d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 

SAVOYS  AND  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  (Fr.  chou  de  savoie}. — When  green  kale,  or  borecole,  has  been  further 
improved  by  cultivation,  it  develops  the  headed  or  hearted  type,  with  blistered  leaves ;  it  is  then 
known  by  the  name  of  savoy,  and  brussels  sprouts.  Another  of  its  headed  forms,  but  with  smooth, 
glaucous  leaves,  is  the  cultivated  garden  cabbage  (Borecole  oleracea  capitula),  with  all  its  varieties  of 
green,  red,  dwarf,  tall,  early,  late,  round,  conical,  flat,  and  other  varieties. 

1462.— CABBAGE,     BOILED.  (Fr.— Choux        au 

Naturel.) 

Ingredients. — Cabbages.  To  each  \  gallon  of  water  allow  i  heaped 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  a  very  small  piece  of  soda. 

Method. — Pick  off  all  the  dead  outside  leaves,  cut  off  as  much  of  the 
stalk  as  possible,  and  cut  the  cabbages  across  twice  at  the  stalk  end; 
if  very  large,  quarter  them.  Wash  them  well  in  cold  water,  place  them 
in  a  colander,  and  drain;  then  put  them  into  plenty  of  fast-boiling 
water,  to  which  have  been  added  salt  and  soda  in  the  above  proportions. 
Stir  the  cabbages  once  or  twice  in  the  water,  keep  the  pan  uncovered, 
and  let  them  boil  quickly  until  tender.  The  instant  they  are  done 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  823 

take  the  cabbages  up  into  a  colander,  place  a  plate  over  them,  let  them 
thoroughly  drain,  dish,  cutting  them  into  squ. 

Time. — Small   young  cabbages,    15    to   20   minutes;   large  cab: 
and   savoys,   from   30   to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,   from    id.   each. 
Seasonable  all  the  year. 

THE  CABBAGE  TRIBE  :  THEIR  ORIGIN. — Of  all  the  species  of  the  Cr-..  f  the  penus  BrasstM 

are  the  most  important,  containing  plants  which.  l*>th  in  theinv  '.  m  ts  «»rnpv  a 

In  agriculture,  commerce,  and  domestic  economy.    In  ma;:  •!!«•  d>.i-t 

of  Dorsetshire,  Cornwall  and  Yorkshire,  these  grow  as  a  wild  plant,  with  variously  indented,  nimh 

uid  loosely  spreading  leaves  of  a  sea-green  colour  and  laqrc  yellow  flowers.      This  is  the 

Brassica  olcracea,  the  wild  cabbacre,  or  colcwort,  from  which  have  originated  all  the  varieties  of  cab- 

.ulitlowcr,  greens,  and  broccoli. 

1463.— CABBAGE,  BRAISED.     (Fr.— Choux  braises.) 

Ingredients. — Savoy   cabbai  bacon,    i    or   2   onions 

i  or  2  carrots,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf ),  stock,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  trim  and  halve  the  cabbages,  cover  them  with 
boiling  water,  adding  i  tablcspoonful  of  salt.  Boil  rapidly  for  15 
minutes,  then  drain  well,  and  cut  away  the  stalks.  Sprinkle  carefully 
with  salt  and  pepper,  put  2  halves  together,  and  fasten  thenf  securely. 

the  bottom  of  a  stcwpan  with  slices  of  bacon,  put  in  the  cabl 
add  the  onions  and  carrots  thickly  sliced,  herbs,  and  a  good  seasoning 
of  salt  and  pepper.     Add  sufficient  stock  to  nearly  cover  the  cabl 
put  on  a  closely-fitting  lid,  and  simmer  gently  for  i  hour.    When  ready, 
remove  the  strings,  drain  well,  press  dry  in  a  cloth,  shape  as  required, 
and  use  as  a  garnish  to  an  eir 

Time. — Altogether,  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  cabbages,  2d. 
each.  Allow  i  small  cabbage  for  2  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

1464.— CABBAGE  WITH  WHITE  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Choux  a  la  Sauce  Blanche.) 

Ingredients. — Cabbage,  \  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  or  melted  butter  sauce 
;  and  202 ).    To  each  £  gallon  of  water  allow  i  heaped 
taMespoonful  of  salt,  a  very  small  piece  of  soda. 

Method.— Pick  off  all  dead  or  faded  outside  leaves,  cut  off  as  much 

k  as  possi  ut  the  cabbages  across  twice  at  the 

.(  they  should  be  very  large,  quarter  them.     Wash  them  well  in 

vatcr,  and  drain.     Thr-  into  plenty  of  fast-boiling  water, 

been  added  salt  and  soda  in  the  above  proportions. 

Stir  them  down  once  or  the  water,  and  let  them  boil  quickly 

for  8  mini;  another  saucepan  with  fast-boiling  water  prepared 

as  above,  and  throw  them  into  it.  and  l«-t   them  lx>il  for  15  minutes; 

d  in  the  first  sau<  •  pan.  and  fill  it  as  before, 

rcmov  again  into  this,  and  let   them  boil  1 

mimr  minutes  if  large.     Take  up  into  a  colander, 

drain  and  .-on  with  pepper.     Serve  in  a  hot  vegetable 

dish,  cut  into  squares,  and  pour  over  the  sauce. 


824  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — 20  to  40  .minutes,  according  to  size  and  age.  Average  Cost, 
from  id.  each.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

1465.— CABBAGE,     BUTTERED.      (Fr.— Choux     au 
Beurre.) 

Ingredients. — i  good  cabbage,  2  medium-sized  Spanish  onions,  i-J-  ozs. 
of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  cabbage  and  onions  together,  allowing  a  little 
longer  time  to  the  latter,  when  the  cabbage  is  young,  then  drain,  and 
chop  finely.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  put  in  the  vegetables, 
season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  fry  for  10  or  15  minutes,  then  serve. 
If  preferred,  a  tablespoonful  each  of  good  gravy  and  vinegar  may  be 
added  before  serving. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  WILD  CABBAGE,  OR  COLEWORT  (Fr.  cJioux  verts\.— This  plant,  found  on  the  sea  cliffs 
of  Britain,  is  the  original  of  the  cabbage  tribe  in  its  simplest  and  normal  form.  In  this 
state  it  is  the  true  collet  or  colewort,  although  the  name  is  now  applied  to  any  young  cabbage  which 
has  a  loose  and  open  heart. 

1466.— CABBAGE    AU    GRATIN.        (Fr.— Choux    au 
Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — i  good  cabbage,  3  or  4  slices  of  bacon,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  grated  cheese,  i  dessertspoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  £  a  pint  of  white 
sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  223),  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — W^sh,  trim,  and  quarter  the  cabbage,  put  it  into  boiling 
water,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  rapidly.  When  f-  cooked, 
drain  well,  chop,  coarsely,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  press  into 
a  pudding  basin.  Place  the  bacon  in  a  gratin  dish,  or  in  any  fire-proof 
dish  that  may  be  sent  to  table,  invert  the  basin  on  the  top,  and  turn 
out  the  cabbage.  Cover  the  surface  with  the  mixed  grated  cheese  and 
breadcrumbs,  put  small  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  lightly  brown.  Serve  the  sauce  separately. 

Tims. — From  40  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

GREEN  KALE  OR  BORECOLE. — When  colewort  or  wild  cabbage  is  brought  under  cultivation  it  be- 
comes greatly  improved,  although  it  still  retains  its  large,  open  leaves,  and  in  this  form  is  called  green 
kale,  or  borecole.  The  scientific  name  of  borecole  is  Borecole  oleracea.  acephaia,  and  there  are  many 
varieties,  both  in  respect  of  the  form  and  colour  of  the  leaves,  and  the  height  of  the  plants.  Among 
these  are  included  the  thousand-headed,  and  the  cow,  or  tree  cabbage, 

1467.— CABBAGE,  MINCED. 

Ingredients. — i  cabbage,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Method. — Boil,  press  the  cabbage  dry,  and  chop  it  finely.  Heat  the 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  mix  smoothly,  and  put 


VEGETABLES. 


ScatKt    KUIIIKT.S. 


VEGETABLES, 


i.  Boiled  Potatoes.         2.  Braised  Cucumber.         3.  Buttered  Peas. 


54 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    VEGETABLES  825 

in  the  cabbage.  A.  1.1  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  put  in  the  vinegar,  stir 
over  the  fire  for  5  or  6  minutes,  then  serve  garnished  with  sections 
of  hard-boiled  egg. 

Time. — A  ;,  from   i   to   1}  hours.     Average  Cost,  M.  to  8d., 

exclusive  of  the  eggs.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

1468.— CABBAGE,  RED,  STEWED.     (Fr—  Choux  au 
Jambon.) 

Ingredients. —  i  red  cabbage,  i  small  slice  of  ham,  £  an  oz.  of  fresh 
butter,  i  pint  of  fresh  stock,  i  gill  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 

. -lespoonful   of   pounded   sugar. 

Method. — Cut  the  cabbage  r  thin  slices,  put  it  into  a  stewpan, 

\\iih  the  ham  cut  in  dice,  the  butter,  £  a  pint  of  stock,  and  the  vii 

nd  let  it  stew  for  i  hour,     \\iuii  it  is  very 

tender,  add  the  remainder  of  the  stock,  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper, 
and  the  pounded  sugar;  mix  the  ingredients  well  together,  stir  o\ 
lire-    until    nearly   all    the   liquor  has  :    serve. 

-.ally  sent  to  table  with  this  dish  :  they  should  be  laid 
round  and  on  the  cabbage  as  a  garnish. 

Time. — Rather    more     than    i    hour.        Average    Cost,     is.    without 
Seasonable  from   S  r  to  Jan 

1469.— CARDOONS,      BOILED.       (Fr.— Gardens     au 

Nature!. ) 

Ingredients.  It. 

Method. — Cut   the  'igths,   remove   the   prickles, 

•-•d  boilir  iv  lor   i  ;   minutes.  (lnu 

Rub  off    the   ski-  i    cloth,    re-place   the   eanloons   in    the 

m  with  cold  water,  add  a  little  salt,  and  boil  until 
ten.lcT.     Serve    with    \\  '  e.     Cardoon^  ,lso   be    cooked 

•lit  in  all 
>oking,  in  order  to  remove  the  slime. 

1470.- CARROTS,  BOILED.    (Fr.— Garottes  au  Natu- 
rel.) 

Ingredients.— To  each  £  gallon  of  water  allow  i  heaped  tablcspoonful 
of  saltt  carrots. 

Method.     (:t   off  the  preen  toj.  .nd  scrape  the  carrots,  and 

ack  specks.     If  the  carrots  are  very  large  cut  tl 

ihwisc  into  4  pieces,  and  put  th  oiling 

'*>ve  proportion;   let    them   boil  until   teiuK  i , 
v  be  ascertained  by  piercing  the  carrots  with  a 
i  drain  well.     Young  carrots  should  be  boiled  whole. 


826  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — Young  carrots,  about  \  an  hour;  old  ones,  from  i  to  i4-  hours. 
Average  Cost,  young  carrots,  from  6d.  to  Sd.  a  bunch.  Seasonable,  young 
carrots  from  April  to  June;  old  ones  at  any  time. 

I47I. —CARROTS    WITH    PARSLEY   SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Carottes  a  la  Maitre  d' Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  small  new  carrots,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  finely-chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  \  a  lemon,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  trim  the  carrots;  if  very  young,  allow  2  or  3 
of  the  tiny  leaves  at  the  top  to  remain,  as  this  adds  to  the  appearance 
when  served.  Put  them  into  boiling  water  slightly  salted,  and  boil 
for  about  15  minutes,  or  until  tender.  When  done,  drain  off  the  water, 
put  in  the  butter,  parsley  and  lemon-juice,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  per  bunch.  Season- 
able from  March  to  June. 

CONSTITUENT?  OF  THE  CA.RROT. — These  contain  crystallizable  and  uncrystallizable  sugar,  a  small 
quantity  of  starch,  extractive  gluten,  albumen,  volatile  oil,  pectin  or  vegetable  jelly,  «alts,  malic  acid, 
and  a  peculiar  crystallizable  ruby-red,  odourless,  and  tasteless  principle  called  carotin.  Pectin 
exists  more  or  less  in  all  vegetables,  and  is  especially  abundant  in  those  roots  and  fruits  from  which 
jellies  are  prepared. 

1472.— CARROTS,    STEWED.        (Fr.— Carottes   a   la 
Crime.) 

Ingredients. — 6  or  7  large  carrots,  \  a  pint  of  stock,  |  of  a  pint  of  milk, 
i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Scrape  the  carrots,  put  them  into  boiling  water,  boil  rapidly 
until  half  cooked,  then  drain,  and  cut  them  into  rather  thin  slices. 
Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock  and  milk, 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  a  smooth  sauce  is  obtained.  Season  to  taste, 
put  in  the  sliced  carrots,  simmer  very  gently  until  they  are  tender, 
stirring  occasionally,  then  add  the  cream,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  pd.  Seasonable 
at  any  time.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

PROPERTIES  OF  THE  CARROT. — The  nutritive  matter  of  the  carrot  amounts  to  98  parts  in  1,000,  of 
which  95  are  sugar,  and  3  parts  starch.  The  carrot  is  used  in  winter  and  spring  in  the  dairy,  to  give 
colour  and  flavour  to  butter,  and  is  excellent  in  stews,  haricots,  soups,  or,  when  boiled,  with  salt  beef. 
Owing  to  the  large  proportion  of  saccharine  in  its  composition,  the  carrot  yields  a  greater  proportion 
of  spirit  than  the  potato,  10  Ib.  weight  producing  J  a  pint  of  strong  spirit. 

I473._CARROTS  WITH  PARSLEY  SAUCE. 

(Fr.—  Carottes  a  la  Poulette.) 

Ingredients. — i  bunch  of  young  carrots,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  gill  of  milk, 
%  a  gill  of  cream,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i  tcaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Blanch  the  carrots  in  toiling  water  for  5  minutes,  rub  off 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES 

the  skins  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  cut  the  carrots  into  thin  slices.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  milk,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
put  in  the  sliced  carrots,  and  cook  gently  until  tender.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  eggs  and  cream  together  slightly,  pour  into  the  stewpan,  and  stir 
very  gently  until  the  eggs  thicken,  then  add  the  parsley,  season  to  taste, 
and  serve. 

Time.  —  30    minutes.     Average    Cost,    lod.    to    is.     Seasonable    from 
March  to  June. 

!  EP  or  THE  CARROT.  —  To  preserve  the  w«d  of  the  carrot,  the  most  perfect  and  best-shaped 
roots  are  annually  selected  in  the  Uking-up  season.  These  are  either  preserved  in  sand  in  a  cellar 
or  dark  storehouse  until  spring,  or  are  planted  immediately  in  an  open  airy  part  of  the  garden  protected 
with  litter  during  severe  'rost.  or  earthed  over  and  uncovered  in  March.  In  August  the  seed  is  fit 
to  be  gathered,  but  is  best  preserved  on  the  stalks  until  required. 


1474.—  CARROTS  FOR  GARNISH. 

Ingredients.  —  Carrots,  ii  beef  or  veal  stock. 

Method.  —  Trim  the  carrots  with  a  round  cutter,  and  parboil  them 
in  salted  water.  Drain  away  the  water,  cover  with  strong  stock,  boil 
gently  until  tender,  th<  n  strain  and  keep  them  hot,  and  replace  the 
stock  in  the  stewpan.  Boil  rapidly  until  reduced  to  a  thin  glaze, 
;i  put  in  the  carrots,  shake  over  the  fire  until  well  coated  with 
glaz< 

Time.  -  A  .  about  J  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2d.  por  Ib. 

Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1475.—  CARROTS,  GERMAN  STYLE.      (/•>.—  Carottes 
a  1'Allemande.) 

Ingredients.     f>  carrots  slued,  2  ozs.  of  butter,   i  dessertspoonful  of 

opped  onion,   i   tcaspoonful  oi  :  <>pped  parsley,   i 

of  stock,  nutmeg,  salt  and  rx  or  the  sauce:   i  oz.  of  but 

i  oz.  of  flour,  stock. 

Method.  —  Heat  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,   put   in  the  carrots, 
onion,  parsley,  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  : 
minutes.     Add  the  stock,  season  to  taste,  cover  closely,  and  simmer 
ly    until    marly   cooked.     Meanwhile   heat   the   remaining  oz.   of 
but:  pan,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  and  cook  until  m 

\vned.     When  ready,  strain  the  stock  from  the  carrots,  add  suffic, 
stock  or  water  to  make  J  of  a  pint,  pour  it  on  to  the  browned  flour, 
and  stir  the  mixture  until  it  boils.     Add  seasoning,  if  necessary,  put 
in  the  carrots,  cook  gently  until  «juite  tender,  then  Ml 

Time.  —  About  J  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  iod.,  inclusive  of 
•x  k.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1476.—  CARROTS,  GLAZED.    (Fr—  Carottes  en  demi- 

glace.) 

Ingredient!.—  Young  carrots,  butter,  good  stock,  mace,  castor  sugar, 
salt  and  pepper. 


828  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Scrape  and  trim  the  carrots  into  a  good  shape.  Cover  them 
with  boiling  water,  add  a  little  salt,  boil  gently  for  5  or  6  minutes, 
and  drain  well.  In  a  stewpan,  large  enough  to  hold  the  carrots  in  a 
single  layer,  melt  sufficient  butter  to  just  cover  the  bottom,  then 
put  in  the  carrots.  Add  a  good  seasoning  of  pepper,  a  pinch  of  sugar, 
sprinkle  lightly  with  mace,  and  more  liberally  with  pepper.  Pour  in 
good  stock  to  about  half  the  depth  of  the  carrots,  and  cover  first  with 
a  greased  paper,  and  afterwards  with  a  close-fitting  lid.  Cook  gently 
until  tender,  remove  and  keep  them  hot,  and  boil  the  stock  rapidly 
until  reduced  to  a  thin  glaze.  Replace  the  carrots  2  or  3  at  a  time, 
turn  them  from  side  to  side  until  well  coated  with  glaze,  and  use  as 
required.  (See  Recipe  No.  1474,  Carrots  for  garnish.) 

I477.—CAULIFLOWER,    BAKED,    WITH    CHEESE. 

(Fr. — Choufleur  au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — 2  to  3  small  cauliflowers,  f  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce 
(see  Sauces,  No.  223),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  preferably 
Parmesan,i  tablespoonful  of  brown  breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Boil  the  cauliflowers  as  in  the  following  recipe,  drain  well, 
and  divide  them  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving.  Have  ready  a 
round  gratin  dish,  or  any  fireproof  dish  that  may  be  sent  to  table,  butter- 
it  well,  and  in  it  arrange  the  pieces  of  cauliflower  so  as  to  appear  as  one 
large  one.  Mix  f  of  the  cheese  with  the  COLD  white  sauce,  and  the 
remainder  with  the  breadcrumbs;  pour  the  sauce  over  the  cauliflower, 
and  cover  the  surface  with  the  mixed  breadcrumbs  and  cheese.  Place 
small  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
well  browned. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Seasonable 
from  June  to  October;  broccoli  from  October  to  March. 

CAULIFLOWER  AND  BROCCOLI  (Fr.  chauffeur  el  brocoli). — These  are  only  forms  of  the  wild  cabbige 
in  its  cultivated  state.  The  purple  and  white  broccoli  are  varieties  of  the  cauliflower. 

1478.— CAULIFLOWERS,  BOILED,  WITH  WHITE 
SAUCE.  (Fr.— Chouxfleurs  a  la  Sauce 
Blanche.) 

Ingredients. — 2  cauliflowers  (to  each  gallon  of  water  allow  i  heaped 
tablespoonful  of  salt),  white  sauce  No.  223. 

Method. — Choose  cauliflowers  that  are  close  and  white,  trim  off  the 
decayed  outside  leaves,,  and  cut  the  stalk  off  flat  at  the  bottom.  Open 
the  flower  a  little  in  places  to  remove  the  insects,  which  generally  are 
found  about  the  stalk,  and  let  the  cauliflowers  lie  in  salt  and  water 
for  an  hour  previous  to  dressing  them,  with  their  heads  downwards  ; 
this  will  effectually  draw  out  all  insects.  Put  them  into  fast- 


RECIPES    FOR    COOK  I  .V,    VEGETABLES 


boiling  water,  with  the  addition  of  salt  in  the  above  proportion, 
let  them  boil  gently,  keeping  the  saucepan  uncovered.  The 
should  be  well  skimmed.  When  the  cauliflowers  are  tender, 
take  them  up  with  a  slice,  let  them  drain,  and  lay  them  carefully 
in  the  dish.  Serve  with  white  sauce  or  else  plain  melted  butter,  & 
little  of  which  may  be  poured  over  the  cauliflower. 

Time.  —  Small  cauliflower,  12  to  15  minutes;  a  large  one,  20  to  25 
minutes,  after  the  water  boils.  Average  Cost,  from  3d.  to  4d.  each. 
Seasonable  from  June  to  November. 

1479.—  CAULIFLOWER,  CURRIED. 

See  Vegetables  Curry  of,     Recipe  No.  1636. 

1480.—  CELERY.     (Fr.—  Cel6ri.) 

Method.  —  This  vegetable  is  generally  c^tcn  raw,  and  is  served  with 
cheese.  Let  the  roots  be  washed  free  from  dirt,  all  the  decayed  and 
outside  leaves  being  cut  off,  preserve  as  much  of  the  stalk  as  possible, 
and  carefully  remove  all  specks  and  blemishes.  Should  the  celery  be 
divide  it  lengthwise  into  quarters,  and  place  it  root  down- 
wards, in  a  celery-glass,  which  should  be  rather  more  than  half 
Tilled  with  water.  The  top  leaves  may  be  curled  by  shredding  tlvrm 
in  narrow  strips  with  the  point  of  a  knife  to  a  depth  of  about  2  i; 
from  the  top. 

Average  Cost,—  From  2d.  per  head.  Seasonable  from  September  to 
February. 

-,  of  CCLKRV.—  In  its  wild  form  ceterv  is  known  as  "  unalUae."  a  common  plant  femnd  KTOW- 

<i  in  irshv  pl.ices  j  ..uxist.     I'nder  cultivation  it  Imes  its  .1 

and  becomes  mild  and  sweet.     In  it)  n.4tni.il  *:  it.-  it  has  a  peculiar  rank,  coan*  tiste  and  smell. 
It-*  r-H't  w.is  im.hiil.-jl  l.v  ti  ,.ug  the  "  five  greater  aperient  roots/'     There  is  a  large  at  d 

turmp-shajxxl  \  u*ed   in  Germany,  and  considered  preferable 

to  the  variety  cultivated  in  England. 

1  48  1.  -CELERY,  BRAISED.     (Fr.-Cfltri  brais6.) 

Ingredients.  —  3  or  4  heads  of  celery,  seasoning.  £  a  pint  of  rich  stock, 

2  or  3  slices  of  streaky  bacon,  a  little  Brown  or  Espagnole  Sauce  (sec 
Sauces,  No.  223  and  No.  244),  and  a  small  piece  of  meat  glaze. 

Method.  —  Trim  and  wash  the  celery,  cut  each  head  into  2  or  3  por- 
tions, and  tic  up  each  with  4-inch  lengths  of  thin  twine.  Range  them 
in  a  well  buttered  saute-pan.  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
and  i-  ,th  the  stock.  Cut  the  bacon  into  strips,  fry  tl. 

and  put  thr^o  on  top  of  the  celery.  Cover  the  pan,  and  put  it 
in  a  hot  oven  to  cook  its  contents  for  about  30  minutes.  When  done, 
take  up.  drain  the  ci-lrry.  and  reduce  the  liquor  or  stock,  ad<i 

in  <•  t.i  it,  also  the  meat  glaze.     Dress  the 
;  .u  n  over  some  of  the  sauce,  and  serve  hot. 

Time.—  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persona. 
Seasonable,  November  to  Fcbru 


830  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1482.— CELERY  CROQUETTES.    (Fr.— Croquettes  de 
Celeri.) 

Ingredients. — 2  heads  of  celery,  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
i  shallot,  i  gill  of  milk,  seasoning,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, fat  for  frying. 

Method. — Trim  and  wash  the  celery,  and  cut  into  short  pieces,  blanch 
them  in  salted  water,  and  drain,  then  cook  till  tender  in  well  seasoned 
stock.  Drain  the  cooked  celery,  and  chop  it  rather  finely.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  shallot  (chopped),  and  fry  a  little,  stir 
in  the  flour,  blend  these  together,  and  gradually  add  a  gill  of  milk. 
Stir  till  it  boils,  and  put  in  the  chopped  celery.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  cook  for  15  minutes,  adding  the  egg-yolks  at  the  last. 
Spread  the  mixture  on  a  dish  and  let  it  get  cold.  Make  up  into  cro- 
quettes— cork  or  ball  shapes — egg  and  crumb  them,  fry  in  hot  fat  to 
a  golden  colour,  drain  them  on  a  cloth  or  paper,  and  dish  up. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  6  to  7 
persons. 

1483.— CELERY  FRITTERS  CURRIED.      (Fr.— Beig- 
nets  de  Celeri  au  Kari.) 

Ingredients. — Celery,  Bechamel  sauce  No.  178,  curry-paste,  curry- 
powder,  frying-batter,  salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  clean  some  white  celery,  cut  it  into  2-inch  pieces, 
and  cook  it  till  tender  in  stock  or  salted  water.  Drain  the  pieces  on  a 
sieve.  When  cold  toss  it  in  the  thick  Bechamel  sauce,  previously  mixed 
with  Mulligatawny  or  curry-paste:  the  pieces  must  be  thoroughly 
coated  with  sauce.  Dip  each  piece  in  batter;  drop  into  boiling  fat, 
fry  a  golden  colour,  and  drain  on  a  cloth  or  paper.  Sprinkle  with  fine 
salt  mixed  with  a  little  curry-powder  (just  enough  to  colour  it),  dish 
up  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  send  to  table  immediately. 

Asparagus,  cucumber  or  marrow  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner. 
Instead  of  using  batter,  they  may  be  egged  and  rolled  in  breadcrumbs, 
though  this  is  rather  more  difficult  than  the  former  method. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  for  i  dish.  Seasonable 
from  September  to  February. 

ALEXANDERS. — This  plant,  Smyrnium  olusatrum,  is  a  native  of  Great  Britain,  and  is  found  in  its 
wild  state  near  the  sea  coast.  It  was  formerly  cultivated  for  its  leaf-stalks,  but  its  place  is  now  taken 
by  celery. 

1484.— CELERY,  FRIED,     (Fr.— Beignets  de  Celeri.) 

Ingredients. — Celery,  frying-batter,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Prepare  and  boil  the  celery,  as  directed  in  Celery  with 
White  Sauce,  and  cut  it  into  short  lengths.  Have  ready  some  frying- 
batter  and  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  dip  each  piece  of  celery  separately 
into  the  batter,  and  fry  until  crisp  and  lightly-browned.  Drain  well, 
and  serve  at  once. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES          831 

Time. — To  fry  the  celery,  from  4  to  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2d.  to 
3d.  per  head.  Sufficient,  allow  i  head  for  2  persons.  Seasonable  from 
September  to  February. 

1485.— CELERY  AND  MACARONI  STEW. 

(Fr.—  Ragout  de  Celeri  et  Macaroni.) 

Ingredients. — 3  heads  of  white  celery,  milk,  water,  salt,  bayleaf.  2 
ozs.  of  macaroni,  i£  gills  of  Bechamel  or  white  sauce  (see  Saiuvs. 
No.  178  and  No.  222).  white  pepper,  a  grate  of  nutmeg. 

Method. — Trim  and  wash  the  celery,  boil  it  till  tender  in  milk  and 
water,  seasoned  with  salt  and  a  bayleaf.  Drain  and  cut  the  celery 
into  2-inch  lengths.  Cook  the  macaroni  likewise  in  salted  \\ 
when  done  drain  on  a  sieve  and  cut  into  short  pieces.  Heat  up  the 
sauce,  put  in  the  celery  and  macaroni  ;  season  with  white  pepper  and 
nutmeg,  and  let  the  whole  simmer  gently  for  15  minutes  or  longer. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  break  the  celery  or  macaroni.  Dish 
up  on  a  hot  dish,  and  scr 

Time. — ]  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable,  November  to  February. 

1486.— CELERY,  STEWED. 

See  Celery  with  Espagnole  Sauce,  No.  1489  ;  and  Celery,  Ragout  of, 
No.  1490. 

1487.-  CELERY  WITH  WHITE  SAUCE.    (Fr.— C£leri 
a  la  Sauce  Blanche.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  heads  of  celery,  £  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces, 
No.  223),  salt,  toast. 

Method. — Wash  the  celery,  remove  the  outer  stalks  and  the  greater 
part  of  the  root,  trim  away  the  green  tops,  and  cut  each  head  lengthwise 
into  four.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  slightly-salted  boilr 
put  in  the  celery,  and  cook  from  30  to  35  minutes,  or  until  the  root  may 
be  easily  pierced  with  a  skewer.  Drain  well,  dish  on  the  toast,  pour 
over  the  sauce,  and  se 

Time. — From  30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  2d.  per  head. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  February. 

1488.— CELERY  WITH   CREAM.      (Fr.— Celeri   a  la 
Creme.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  heads  of  celery,  i \  pints  of  milk,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-jim  e,  i  \  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour, 
I  n.  cd  onion  fmrly-c. hopped,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  the  celery  as  in  tl.  ing  recipe.  Put  it  into 

cold  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  then  drain  off  the  water,  add  the  milk 


832  'HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

and  onion,  season  to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  \  an  hour. 
Meanwhile  melt  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and 
cook  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning.  Take  up  the  celery  and  keep 
it  hot;  strain  the  milk  on  to  the  roux  or  mixture  of  flour  and  butter, 
and  stir  until  boiling.  Rub  the  onion  that  was  cooked  with  the  celery 
through  a  hair  sieve,  add  it  with  the  cream  and  lemon-juice  to  the  sauce, 
season  to  taste,  and  simmer  for  about  5  minutes.  Arrange  the  celery 
neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is  3d.  Seasonable  from  Sep- 
tember to  February. 

!  489.— CELERY  WITH  ESPAGNOLE  SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Celeri  a  1'Espagnole.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  heads  of  celery,  i  pint  of  good  brown  stock,  £  a 
glass  of  sherry,  -|  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of 
flour,  6  or  8  button  mushrooms,  2  small  onions  finely-chopped,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  bay-leaf,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  thyme, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  and  blanch  the  celery  as  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Drain  off  the  water,  add  the  stock,  onions  and  herbs,  season  to  taste, 
and  cook  slowly  for  about  \  an  hour.  Meanwhile  fry  the  mushrooms 
in  the  hot  butter  for  a  few  minutes,  then  transfer  them  to  the  stewpan 
containing  the  celery.  Add  the  flour  to  the  butter,  fry  until  it  acquires 
a  nut-brown  colour,  and  when  the  celery  is  sufficiently  cooked  remove 
it  to  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  stock  on  to  the  brown  roux,  and  stir  until 
boiling.  Rub  the  onion  through  a  hair  sieve,  add  k  with  the  mush- 
rooms, sherry,  lemon-juice  and  parsley  to  the  sauce,  season  to  taste, 
and  simmer  gently  for  about  5  minutes.  Arrange  the  celery  neatly 
on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  the  sauce,  and  serve.  The  mushrooms  and 
sherry  may  be  omitted,  and  the  dish  would  then  be  Celery  with  Brown 
Sauce.  A  little  ham  added  to  the  sauce  will  be  found  a  great 
improvement. 

Time. — From  i  to  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  6d.  to  2s. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  February. 

1490.— CELERY,  RAGOUT  OF.     (Fr.— Celeri  en  Ra- 
gout.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  heads  of  celery,  i  pint  of  white  stock,  \  a  pint  of 
milk,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  medium-sized  Spanish  onion,  24 
button  onions,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  trim  the  celery,  cut  each  stick  into  pieces  about 
2  inches  long,  cover  with  cold  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  pour  the 
water  away.  Put  in  the  stock,  the  Spanish  onion  finely-chopped, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  gently  for  about  £  an  hour. 


VEGETABLES. 


!0 


i.— Braized    Celery.  a.-  Leeks.  3.— Boiled    Seakale.  4.— Brussels  Sprouts. 

3. —Baked   Potatoes.  6.— Parsnip*.  7.— Boiled   Potatoes.  8.— Artichokes. 

9.— Cabbage.        to.— Braized  Onions. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    VEGETABLES  833 

Meanwhile  skin  the  onions,  fry  them  in  hot  butter,  but  very  slowly, 
to  prevent  them  taking  colour,  drain  well  from  fat,  and  keep  them  hot. 
Add  the  flour  to  the  butter,  and  fry  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning. 
Take  up  the  celery,  add  the  strained  stock  to  the  milk,  pour  both  on  to 
the  roux  or  mixture  of  flour  and  butter,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season 
to  taste,  add  the  cream,  and  £  the  parsley,  arrange  the  celery  in  a  circle 
on  a  hot  dish,  pour  over  the  sauce,  pile  the  onions  high  in  the  centre, 
sprinkle  over  them  the  remainder  of  the  parsley,  and  serve.  The  celery 
may  also  be  served  on  croutes  of  fried  or  toasted  bread,  arranged  in 
rows  with  the  onions  piled  between  them.  A  nice  change  may  be  made 
by  substituting  mushrooms  for  the  onions. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  to  28.  3d.     Seasonable 
from  September  to  February.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons, 

1491.— CHICORY,  TO  DRESS. 

Sec  Endive,  Recipe  No.  1510. 

1492.— CORN,  FRIED  (Preserved).       (Fr.— Mais.) 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  com,  2  tablespoon fu Is  of  oiled  butter,  2  eggs, 
salt  and  pepper,  butter  for  frying. 

Method. — Pound  the  corn  in  a  mortar  until  quite  smooth,  the  n  \vork 
in  the  oiled  butter  and  eggs,  and  season  to  taste.     Form  the  mixture 
into  small  oval  or  round  shapes,  fry  both  sides  until  lightly  bn 
then  serve. 

Time. — To  fry,  from  8  to  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time, 

1493.— CORN,  GREEN,  BOILED. 

Ingredients.— Green  corn,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  all  the  husk  from  the  corn  except  the  inner  ! 
strip  this  down,  and  take  away  all  the  silk  surrounding  the  corn.  Re- 
place the  remaining  layer  of  husk,  tie  securely,  and  place  the  cars 
in  a  stewpan  containing  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  them.  Boil 
gently  from  15  to  20  minutes,  then  remove  the  strings,  and  serve  with 
oiled  butter  highly  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Time. — To  cook  the  corn,   from   15   to  20  minutes.     Average   Cost, 
uncertain.     Allow   I   to  each  person.     Seasonable  from  May  to  July. 


1494.— CORN  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 6  ears  of  green  corn,  6  eggs,  i£  pints  of  milk,  salt  and 
pepper,  nu  cet  sauce  (see  Sauces). 

Method.  iu  corn,  beat  and  add  the  eggs,  stir  in  the  milk, 

B« 


834  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

and  season  to  taste  with  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  the  mixture 
into  a  buttered  piedish,  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  i 
hour,  then  serve  with  the  sauce. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.  per  cob.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  May  to  July. 

1495.— CORN,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — 6  ears  of  fresh  green  corn,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
£  of  a  pint  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  husks  and  silk,  cut  downwards  through  the 
centre  of  each  row  of  grains,  then  remove  them  with  the  back  of  a 
knife.  Place  the  grains  in  a  stewpan  containing  sufficient  boiling 
water  to  cover  them,  simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour,  and  drain  well. 
Meanwhile,  heat  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir 
and  cook  it  for  a  few  minutes  without  "browning,  then  put  in  the  milk. 
Stir  until  boiling,  season  to  taste,  add  the  prepared  corn,  and  when 
thoroughly  hot,  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  corn,  about  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  per  cob. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  May  to  July. 

1496.— CORN,  STEWED  (Preserved). 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  green  corn,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  milk, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Empty  both  corn  and  liquor  into  a  stewpan,  stew  gently 
until  the  corn  is  tender,  then  drain  and  keep  it  hot,  and  with  the  liquor 
mix  enough  milk  to  make  up  ^  a  pint.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then 
put  in  the  milk.  Stir  the  mixture  until  it  boils,  season  to  taste,  put 
in  the  corn,  simmer  gently  for  5  minutes,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  corn,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to 
is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1497.— CORN,  GREEN,  ROASTED. 

Ingredients. — 6  ears  of  green  corn,  butter. 

Method. — Remove  the  husks  and  silk  from  the  corn,  coat  the  ears 
lightly  with  butter,  and  roast  them  in  a  Dutch  oven  before  a  clear  fire, 
turning  them  frequently.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — To  roast  the  corn,  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Average 
cost,  uncertain.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  May  to 
July. 

1498.— CUCUMBER,  BAKED. 

See  Cucumber,  Stuffed,  Recipe  No.  1505. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKINti    VEGETABLES  835 

1499.— CUCUMBERS  FOR  GARNISH. 

See  Cucumber  with    Parsley   Sauce.    Re< 

1500.— CUCUMBERS,  TO  DRESS.     (Fr—  Concombres 
a  1'Huile.) 

Ingredients. — 3  tablespoonfuls  ot  tuls  of  vinegar, 

salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  cucumber. 

Method. — Pare  the  cucumber,  mt    it    equally  into   very    thin 
cutting  from  the  thick  end;  it  commenced  at    the  stalk,  t!,e    cucumber 
will    most    likely    hav    an    ev  * 

I 'lit    the    si;  dish,    ^prinkle    over    salt    and   pepper, 

and  pour  over  oil  and  vinegar  in  the  above  proportion  ;  turn  tin- «.  ucumber 
about,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve.     This  is  a  f..  accompaniment 

to  boiled  salmon,  and  is  a  nice  addition  to  all  descriptions  of  sal. ids. 

Average  Cost,   from  6d.  each.      Obtainable    all    the    year.    Seasonable 
in  April,  May,  June  and  July. 

1501.— CUCUMBERS  WITH   EGGS.      (/<>.— Concom- 
bres  aux  Oeufs.) 

Ingredients.    -2  large  o;  sauce  (see  Sai 

;  hard  boiled  eggs,  i   t..  :ul  ot  grated  cheese,  as  many  croutes 

1  bread  and  rolls  of    n-  es  of  cucumber,  salt  and 

P«P1 

Method. — Pare  the  cucumbers,  cut  them  int« 
in  length,  and   re-move   the  ccntr 
knile.      Stand  them  on  end  in  a  stewpan  in  a  little  hot  stock  or  \ 

.ml  Minn  ,entlv  until  tender;  the  time  required 

mutes,  according  to  tl  the  cucn- 

Rub  the  yolk  of  I  egg  through  a  wi;  nd  put  it  aside,  cut  the 

uhr  of  the  eggs  into  dice,  add  them  to  \  a  pint  of  1  .• 
and  when  ready  for  use  stir  in  the  grated  cheese.     Have  the  rice  rolls 

friid,   and   the  cucumber   drained   and   on    t! 

6   the  mixture,  which  should  b-  lightly  in,  piled  rather 

high,  and  garnished  \\ith  yolk  of  egg.      Dish  in  J  close  rows,  arrange 
the  ricr  rolls  <>\ .-:  l.'.ppr  r  round  the  base,  and  serve  the 

remainder  of   the  saiu  C   in  oat. 

Time.      \  n   i{   to  .     Average  Cost.  s.  gd. 

i  his   <\i>}\   in. iv    ! 

.   filling  tl  iiniber  with 

:     with 
cheese  and  w!  !  with  nu; 


836  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

1502.— CUCUMBERS,    FRIED.         (Fr.— Concombres 
Frits.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  small  cucumbers,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  flour, 
oil  or  butter. 

Method. — Pare  the  cucumbers  and  cut  them  into  slices  of  an  equal 
thickness,  commencing  to  slice  from  the  thick  end,  and  not  the  stalk 
end  of  the  cucumber.  Wipe  the  slices  dry  with  a  cloth,  dredge  them 
with  flour,  and  put  them  in  a  pan  of  boiling  oil  or  butter;  keep  turning 
them  about  till  brown,  lift  them  out  of  the  pan,  let  them  drain  on  a 
cloth,  then  season,  and  serve,  piled  lightly  on  a  dish. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  6d.  Obtainable 
all  the  year. 

PROPERTIES  AND  USES  or  THE  CUCUMBER. — The  fruits  of  the  Cucurbilacecu,  or  gourd  order,  to  which 
the  cucumber  belongs,  have  in  general  a  sugary  taste,  and  contain  a  large  percentage  of  water  ;  hence 
their  value  in  tropical  countries,  where  they  furnish  the  inhabitant?,  even  in  arid  deserts  and  b<orren 
islands,  with  a  large  portion  of  their  food.  The  roots  of  the  perennial  varieties  contain,  in  addition 
to  fecula,  which  is  their  base,  a  resinous,  acrid,  and  bitter  principle.  The  juice  of  the  cucumber  is 
employed  in  the  preparation  of  various  kinds  of  soaps,  and  washes  for  the  skin,  its  soothing  or  emol- 
lient properties  rendering  it  valuable  for  such  purposes. 

GEOGRAPHICAL  DISTRIBUTION  OF  CUCUMBERS. — The  family  of  the  Cucurbitaceae  is  unknown  in  the 
frigid  zone,  is  somewhat  rare  in  the  temperate  zone,  but  in  tropical  and  warm  regions  throughout 
the  globe,  all  the  species  grow  abundantly.  Many  varieties  supply  useful  articles  of  consumption, 
and  others  possess  active  medicinal  properties. 

THE  CHATE. — This  variety  of  cucumber  is  a  native  of  Egypt  and  Arabia,  and  produces  a  fruit  of 
nearly  the  same  substance  as  that  of  the  melon.  In  Egypt  the  chate  is  esteemed  by  the  upper  class 
natives,  as  well  as  by  Europeans,  as  the  most  pleasant  fruit  of  its  kind. 

1503.— CUCUMBER  WITH  PARSLEY  SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Concombre  a  la  Poulette.) 

Ingredients. — 2  medium-sized  cucumbers,  \  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see 
Sauces),  i  oz.  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  shallot,  or  onion,  ^  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pare  the  cucumbers,  put  them  into  boiling  water,  cook  for 
about  10  minutes,  then  drain  well  and  cut  them  into  slices  about  i  inch 
in  thickness.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  sliced  cucumber, 
shallot,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  toss  over  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  white  sauce.  Just  before  boiling  point 
is  reached  add  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  parsley,  stir  and  cook  gently 
until  the  eggs  thicken,  then  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 
Obtainable  at  any  time,  cheapest  in  July  and  August. 

THE  MELON  (Fr.  mellon).— This  is  another  species  of  the  gourd  family,  and  is  highly  valued  for  its 
rich  and  delicious  fruit,  it  has  from  time  immemorial  been  cultivated  in  hot  Eastern  countries. 
It  was  introduced  into  England  from  Jamaica  in  the  sixteenth  century,  since  which  period  it  has  been 
grown  in  Great  Britain.  It  was  formerly  called  the  musk-lemon,  which  is  a  variety  of  the  common 
melon. 

1504.— CUCUMBERS,   STEWED.      (Fr.— Concombres 
au  Jus.) 

Ingredients. — 2  large  cucumbers,  flour,  butter,  rather  more  than  £  a 
pint  of  good  brown  gravy. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   VEGETABLES         837 

Method. — Cut  the  cucumbers  lengthwise,  to  the  size  of  the  dish  they  are 
intended  to  be  served  in,  empty  them  of  the  seeds,  and  put  them  into 
boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt.  Let  them  simmer  for  5  minutes, 
then  take  them  out,  place  them  in  another  stewpan,  with  the  gravy, 
and  let  them  boil  over  a  brisk  fire  until  the  cucumbers  are  tender. 
Should  they  be  bitter,  add  a  lump  of  sugar;  dish  them  carefully,  skim 
the  sauce,  strain  over  the  cucumbers,  and  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  6d.  each.  Obtain- 
able at  any  time. 

1505.— CUCUMBERS,  STUFFED.     (Fr.— Concombres 
Farcis.) 

Ingredients. — 2  large  cucumbers,  $  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  cold  meat 
(any  kind  may  be  used),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  i  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pondered  mixed  herbs, 
2  eggs,  or  i  egg  and  a  little  milk,  as  many  croutes  of  fried  or  to 
bread  as  there  are  pieces  of  cucumber,  ^  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (set 
Sauces,  No.  233),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  and  parboil  the  cucumber  as  for  Cucumber  with 
Eggs.  While  they  are  cooking  mix  well  together,  in  a  stewpan,  the 
meat,  breadcrumbs,  parsley  and  herbs,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
add  the  eggs,  with  a  little  milk  or  stock  if  the  mixture  appears  at  all 
dry,  and  stir  briskly  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot.  When  the 
cucumbers  are  tender,  drain  them  well,  place  each  piece  on  a  croute 
of  bread,  fill  carefully  with  the  preparation,  which  should  be  piled  up 
rather  high,  and,  if  liked,  garnished  with  finely -chopped  parsley  or  white 
of  egg.  Dish  in  two  close  rows,  pour  the  sauce  OVER,  sprinkle  on  the 
garnish,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — Altogether,  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  lod.  Obtain- 
able all  the  year;  cheapest  in  July  and  August. 

1506.— DANDELION  LEAVES,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — Dandelion  leaves,  butter,  flour,  cream  or  stock,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  leaves  thoroughly,  let  them  remain  in  plenty  of 
cold  water  for  2  or  3  hours,  then  drain  well.  Cover  with  boiling  water, 
add  a  little  salt,  boil  from  20  to  30  minutes,  then  strain,  press  well, 
and  chop  finely.  To  i  pint  of  chopped  dandt  cs,  allow  i  oz. 

of  butter;  nu-lt  this  in  a  stewpan.  and  add  i  teaspoonful  of  flour.  When 
well  mixed,  add  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  stock,  put  in  the 
dandelion  ir  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  becomes  thor- 

oughly hot,  then  ft 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Seasonable  in  Spring. 


838  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1507.— EGG  PLANT,  BAKED,  WITH  CHEESE. 

(Fr. — Aubergine  au  Parmesan.) 

Ingredients. — 3  aubergines,  %  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces, 
No.  177),  i  tablespoonful  of  grated  Parmesan,  butter,  salt  and  pepper, 
breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Parboil  the  aubergines,  then  peel,  slice  them  rather 
thickly,  remove  the  seeds,  and  arrange  neatly  in  a  baking-dish.  Mix 
the  Bechamel  sauce  and  cheese  together,  season  to  taste,  pour  it  into 
the  baking-dish,  and  cover  lightly  with  breadcrumbs.  Add  a  few 
pieces  of  butter,  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  ^  an  hour, 
and  serve  in  the  dish. 

Time. — To  bake  the  aubergines,  from  25  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
from  4d.  each.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  June 
to  November. 


1508.— EGG      PLANT,      FRIED.        (Fr.— Aubergines 
Frites.) 

Ingredients. — 3  aubergines,  i  finely-chopped  onion,  salad-oil  or  butter, 
flour,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Parboil  the  aubergines,  then  remove  the  peel  and  seeds, 
and  slice  rather  thickly.  Press  out  some  of  the  moisture  by  means 
of  a  dry  cloth,  then  coat  lightly  with  flour  seasoned  with  pepper, 
cayenne  and  salt.  Fry  the  onion  in  hot  butter  until  lightly  browned, 
drain,  and  replace  the  butter  in  the  pan,  keeping  the  onion  hot.  Fry 
the  slices  of  aubergine  in  the  butter  until  both  sides  are  lightly  browned, 
then  drain  well.  Sprinkle  on  the  onion,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  fry  the  aubergines,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from 
4d.  each.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  June  to 
November. 

1509.— EGG  PLANT,  WITH  POACHED  EGGS. 

(Fr. — Aubergines  aux  Oeufs  Poches.) 

Ingredients. — 3  aubergines,  6  small  poached  eggs,  i  gill  of  tomato 
pulp,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  ham,  i  tablespoonful  of  bread- 
crumbs, £  an  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  chopped  parsley. 

Method. — Halve  the  plants,  remove  the  rind  and  seeds,  boil  in  slightly- 
salted  water  until  tender,  and  drain  well.  Heat  the  butter,  add  the 
tomato  pulp,  ham,  breadcrumbs,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  stir 
over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  fill  the  cavities  of  the  aubergines 
with  the  mixture.  Sprinkle  with  parsley,  make  thoroughly  hot  in  the 
oven,  then  place  a  neatly-trimmed  poached  egg  on  each  half,  and 
serve  garnished  with  tufts  of  parsley. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  839 

Time.— Altogether,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost  of  aubergines,  from 
4d.  each.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  June  to 
November. 

1510.— ENDIVE.     (Fr.— Chicoree.) 

This  vegetable  is  generally  served  as  a  salad,  but  may  also  be 
served  hot,  stewed  in  cream,  brown  gravy,  or  butter  ;  but  \vhen 
dressed  thus,  the  sauce  it  is  stewed  in  should  not  be  very  highly 
seasoned,  as  that  would  destroy  and  overpower  the  flavour  of  the 
vegetable. 

Average  Cost,  from  2d.  per  head.     Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

c  kicortt).— This  plant  was  introduced  into  EnjtUnd  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and  k 

1  (or  culinary  purposes.     Its  leaves  are  used   -1—  " — u~*   « J  ~'-J- 

belongs  to  the  same  family  (Composite)  as  chicory. 


1511.— ENDIVE,  STEWED.    (Fr.— Puree  de  Chicoree.) 

Ingredients. — 6  heads  of  endive,  %  of  a  pint  of  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  free  the  endive  thoroughly  from  insects,  remove 
cen  parts  of  the  leaves,  and  put  the  endive  into  boiling  \ 

1 .(  t  it  remain  for  10  minutes,  then  take  it  out,  drain, 
and  chop  it  fin-  It  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and 

cook  for  a  few  minutes  •  rowning.     Put  in  the  stock,  stir  until 

boiling,  add  the  endive  and  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  simmer  until 

rfettly  tender,  then  s- 

Time.— Altogether,  about  $  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  from  2d.  per  head. 
Seasonable 

1512.-  GREENS,  YOUNG,  TO  DRESS. 
See  Brussels  Sprouts  Boiled,  Recipe  No.  1461. 

1513.— HARICOT  BEANS,   BOILED.      (Fr. -Haricots 
de  Soisson,  au  Beurrc.) 

Ingredients. — i    quart   of  white   haricot   beans,   2   quarts  of  water, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  heaped  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Put  tier,  and  kt  them  < oak  for  several 

hours,  according  to  their  ap  put  them  into  cold  water,  salted 

in  the  above  proportion,  bring  them  to  the  boil,  and  let  them  simmer 

nder.     Pour  away  the  water,  and  let  them  stand 

1  of  the  sa  allow 

the  beans  to  dry;*hen  add  i  oz.  of  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  \ 
.unl  :t    5    minutes,  then  ilMi   u, 

Time. — After  the  water  boils,  from   2   to  2$  hours.     Average  Cost, 
4(1.    p  Sufficient  i  >r  6  or  8  persons.      Seasonable  .it  any  time. 


840  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

1514.— HARICOTS  A  LA  BONNE  FEMME. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  white  haricot  beans,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  salt,  2  quarts  of  water,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped-parsley, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Place  the  haricot  beans  in  water  with  the  above  proportion 
of  salt;  let  them  boil,  then  draw  the  saucepan  to  the  corner  of  the  fire, 
and  let  them  simmer  gently  until  the  bean  is  easily  crushed  between 
the  thumb  and  finger,  which  will  be  in  about  2  hours.  Drain  them 
and  return  them  to  the  saucepan;  add  the  butter,  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  \  a  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  beans  were  boiled. 
Shake  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Time. — 2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  per  quart.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

HARICOT  BEAN  (Fr.  haricot). — This  is  the  haricot  blanc  of  the  French,  and  is  also  cultivated  largely 
in  Great  Britain,  Germany,  and  Switzerland.  It  is  highly  nutritious,  and  contains  36  per  cent,  of 
starch,  and  23  per  cent,  of  the  nitrogenous  matter  called  legumen,  allied  to  the  caseine  of  cheese. 
There  is  perhaps  no  vegetable  dish  so  cheap,  or  so  easily  cooked,  and,  at  the  same  time,  so  agreeable 
and  nourishing.  The  beans  are  boiled  and  then  mixed  with  a  little  fat  or  salt  butter,  and  a  little 
milk  or  water  and  flour. 

I5 15.— HARICOT  BEANS  WITH  PARSLEY  BUTTER. 
(Fr.— Haricots  Blancs  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  white  haricot  beans,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  fresh  butter, 
i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  the  juice 
of  \  a  lemon. 

Method. — Should  the  beans  be  very  dry,  soak  them  for  i  or  2  hours 
in  cold  water,  and  boil  them  until  perfectly  tender,  as  in  the  preceding 
recipe.  Should  the  water  boil  away,  replenish  it  with  a  little  more 
cold,  to  make  the  skin  of  the  beans  tender.  Let  them  be  thor- 
oughly done;  drain  them  well,  then  add  to  them  the  butter,  chopped 
parsley,  and  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt.  Shake  the  stewpan  gently 
over  the  fire  ;  and  when  the  various  ingredients  are  well  mixeci, 
squeeze  in  the  lemon-juice,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.  per  quart.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 

HARICOTS  AND  LENTILS  (Fr.  haricots  et  lentilles).—From  their  flesh-forming  properties  these 
vegetables  serve  as  an  excellent  substitute  for  meat,  and  are  largely  used  in  Roman  Catholic 
countries  during  the  season  of  Lent,  and  on  maigre  days.  In  Egypt,  Syria,  and  other  parts  of  the 
East,  lentils  form  the  chief  article  of  diet.  The  use  of  lentils  as  a  food  has  largely  increased  in  Eng- 
land in  recent  years,  and  they  are  eaten  in  the  form  of  soups,  prepared  foods,  etc. 

1516.— HARICOT  BEANS  AND  MINCED  ONIONS. 

(Fr. — Haricots  a  la  Lyonnaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  white  haricot  beans,  4  medium-sized  onions, 
£  of  a  pint  of  good  brown  gravy  No.  164,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  a  little 
flour,  •£  oz.  butter. 

Method. — Peel  and  mince   the  onions,  not  too  finely,  fry  them,  ia 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    VEGETABLES  841 

butter  until  they  acquire  a  light-brown  colour,  then  dredge  over  them 
a  little  flour,  and  add  the  gravy  and  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt. 
Have  ready  a  pint  of  haricot  beans  well  boiled  and  drained,  put  them 
with  the  onions  and  gravy,  mix  all  well  together,  and  serve  very  hot. 
Time. — Altogether,  about  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  per  quart. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1517— HERB  PANCAKES.       (Fr.— Crepes  aux  Fines 
Herbes.) 

Ingredients. — Any  green  herbs,  such  as  parsley,  chives,  thyme,  spinach, 
etc.,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  minced  ham  or  bacon,  stock,  fried  pancakes. 

Method. — Chop  the  herbs  finely,  then  put  them  into  a  stcv 
the   butter,    and   stew   till    tender.     Keep    them   moist,    mix  in 
ham    or    bacon,    put   a    thin    layer    of    mince   over  each    pancake, 
and  roll  them  up.     Put  the  pancakes  closely  side  by  side  in  a  stewpan, 
add  just  enough  stock  to  keep  them  from  burning,  cover  closely,  and 
steam  for  30  minutes. 

Time. —  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.-9d.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1518.— HORSERADISH.     (Fr.— Raifort.) 

Method. — This  root,  scraped,  is  served  with  hot  roast  beef,  and  is  also 
used  for  garnishing  cold  roast  beef  and  many  kinds  of  boiled  fish.  Let  the 
horseradish  remain  in  cold  water  for  i  hour ;  wash  ii  well,  and  with  a  sharp 
knife  scrape  it  into  very  thin  shreds,  commencing  from  the  thick  end 
of  the  root.  Arrange  some  of  it  lightly  in  a  small  glass  dish,  and  use 
the  remainder  for  garnishing  the  joint;  it  should  be  placed  in  tufts 
round  the  border  of  the  dish,  with  i  or  2  bunches  on  the  meat. 

Average  Cost. — 2d.  per  stick.     Seasonable  from  October  to  June. 

THE  HORSERADISH  (Fr.  r  aifort).— This  vegetable  poMcatei  highly  stimulant  and  exciting  stomachic 
properties.  It  is  valuable  as  a  condiment  in  promoting  the  appetite  and  exciting  the  ocgaos  of  diges- 
tion. Sulphur  is  present  to  the  extent  of  30  per  cent  in  the  horseradish,  and  causes  the  I 

metal   vessels   sometimes  assume   when   horseradish   is  distilled.     It  is   a   most   powerful 
•rbutic.    and  forms   the   basis  of  various  medicinal  preparations  in  the  form  of  wines.   • 
tures,  and  syrup*. 

1519.— KIDNEY  BEANS. 

Sec  French  Beans,  Recipe  No.  1451. 

1520.— KOHL-RABI,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. —  i  large  kohl-rabi,  or  2  small  ones,  2  ozs.  of  butter. 
\  oz.  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Pick  out  the  most  tender  leaves,  which  put  aside  to  be 

afterwards  boiled,  drained,  and  tossed  in  •£  an  oz.  of  butter.     Peel  and 

:tcr  the  root.  ling  saltc  boil  gently  until 

tender,  and  drain  wi  11.     Heat  t  ning  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  add  the 


842  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

flour,  cook  for  4  or  5  minutes  without  browning,  add  the  milk,  and 
stir  until  boiling.  Season  to  taste,  add  a  little  nutmeg,  put  in  the 
quarters  of  root,  and  let  them  remain  until  thoroughly  hot.  Serve 
with  the  sauce  poured  over,  garnished  with  the  leaves  prepared  as 
directed  above. 


1521.— LEEKS,  BOILED.    (Fr.— Poireaux  au  Naturel.) 

Ingredients. — 12  young  leeks,  salt,  vinegar,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce 
(see  Sauces,  No.  223),  toast. 

Method. — Trim  oft  the  roots,  the  outer  leaves,  and  the  green  ends, 
and  cut  the  stalks  into  6  inch  lengths.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  a  dessertspoonful  of 
salt,  put  in  the  leeks,  previously  tied  in  bundles,  and  boil  gently  for 
about  40  minutes,  or  until  they  are  perfectly  tender.  Drain  well, 
serve  on  toast,  and  pour  the  white  sauce  over  them. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Obtain- 
able all  the  year;  cheapest  in  September,  October  and  November. 

THE  LEEK  (Fr.  poireau). — This  plant,  the  Albium  porrum,  is  highly  valued  for  culinary  purposes. 
It  is  ordinarily  sown  in  Spring,  and  is  ready  for  use  the  following  Winter.  Its  flavour  is  much  milder 
than  that  of  the  onion,  or  any  other  species  of  the  allium.  Leeks,  like  the  onion,  are  more  frequently 
employed  for  flavouring  purposes  than  served  a?  a  vegetable  :  but  if  boiled  in  3  or  4  waters,  and  after- 
wards stewed  in  milk,  quartered,  and  served  on  toast  like  asparagus,  they  are  nearly,  if  not  quite, 
as  delicate. 

1522.— LEEKS  WITH  POACHED  EGGS.    (Fr.— Poire- 
aux aux  Oeufs  Poches.) 

Ingredients. — 6  or  8  leeks,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  turnip,  i  bouquet- 
garni,  i  bay-leaf,  i  blade  of  mace,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  a 
pint  of  white  slock,  4-  a  pint  of  milk,  6  poached  eggs,  toast,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  onion,  carrot  and  turnip  into  thin  slices,  prepare 
the  leeks  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  put  them  into  cold  water,  bring 
to  the  boil,  and  strain.  Heat  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the 
leeks,  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  herbs,  bay-leaf  and  mace,  and  fry  slowly 
for  15  minutes,  then  add  the  stock,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for 
about  1 1  hours.  When  the  cooking  is  nearly  completed,  melt  the  re- 
mainder of  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  fry  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  put  in  the  milk,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Take  up  the 
leeks,  cut  them  lengthwise  into  quarters,  across  into  2  or  3  pieces, 
keep  them  hot,  and  strain  what  little  stock  remains  into  the  sauce. 
Arrange  the  toast  as  a  long  narrow  strip  down  the  centre  of  the  dish, 
pile  the  pieces  of  leek  high  upon  it,  pour  over  the  sauce,  and  place  the 
poached  eggs  round  the  base. 

Time. — From  i£  to  ij  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Obtain- 
able at  any  time;  cheapest  in  September,  October  and  November. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKINd    VEGETABLES  843 

1523.— LENTILS,  BOILED. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  lentils,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  £  a 
pint  of  stock  or  milk,  i  finely-chopped  onion,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Soak  the  lentils  overnight  in  plenty  of  water,  drain,  cover 
them  with  boiling  water,  add  a  little  salt,  and  boil  gently  until  soft 
but  not  broken.  Fry  the  onion  in  the  butter  until  lightly  browned, 
add  the  flour,  and  when  it  has  cooked  for  2  or  3  minutes,  put  in  the 
stock  or  milk,  and  stir  the  mixture  until  it  boils.  Strain  and  add  the 
lentils,  season  to  taste,  cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve. 
Or  soak,  boil  and  drain  the  lentils  as  directed  above,  season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper,  stir  in  a  little  butter,  then  sr 

Time. — About  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  _xl.  per  pint.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

1524.— LETTUCES.     (Fr.— Laitues.) 

Method. — These  form  one  of  the  principal  ingredients  of  summer 
salads.  They  are  seldom  served  in  any  other  way.  but  may  be  si 
and  sent  to  table  in  a  good  brown  gravy  flavoured  with  lemon-juice. 
In  preparing  them  for  salad,  carefully  wash  them  free  of  dirt,  pick 
off  all  the  decayed  and  outer  leaves,  and  dry  them  thoroughly  by  shaking 
them  in  a  cloth.  Cut  off  the  stalks, and  either  halve,  or  cut  the  lettuces 
manner  of  cutting  them  up  entirely  depends 

on  the  s;>l.  .    are  intended.     In  France,  the  lettuces 

nth,  and  not  washed,  the  cooks 

iium    that    the  art    ot    v.  •  IK-MI   injuriously  affects   the 

;it  en^pness  ot  the  plant;  in  this  case.  ^rujmUuis  attention  must 

he  palil    to  (Mi  ll   lr.it.   .tll.l    the   '.M'lt    t  holt  Miuhlv   \\lped   uU.iY. 

Average    Cost.  d.    per    head,     obtainable    all    the 

year. 

laitu^i.-^ln  its  young  state  th«  lettuce  forms  a  well-known  and  wholesome 
*  a  clear,  tasteless,  and  inodorous  liquid,  with  soothing  and  coolinc  properties.     When 

plant  be  cut  or  wounded,  it  discharges  a  peculiar  mflky  iaioTwpicfa  p g^di- 

cinal  properties.    From  the  inspissated  juice  of  the  lettuce  opium  is  obtained. 

1525.     LIMA  BEANS. 

h  Lima  b  same  manner  as  fresh  peas, 

and  the  dried  bear.  «  prepared  and  cooked  according  to  the 

n  for  dressing  haricot  beans  and  lentils. 

1526.— MACEDOINES,  PRESERVED. 

S«  Tinned    I  :JK*  No.  i  llo\\   the  directions 

.  but   iniiit    the   mint. 

1527.     MAIZE,  OR  INDIAN  CORN.     (Fr.— Mais.) 

Ingredients,  j  young  cobs  of  Indian  corn,  3  quarts  of  water,  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  s.dt. 


844         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Cut  off  the  stem,  throw  the  green  cobs  into  cold  water, 
with  the  above  proportion  of  salt,  and  boil  slowly  for  £  of  an  hour, 
or  until  tender.  Serve  on  toast,  with  melted  butter. 

Time. — f-  of  an  hour,  after  the  water  boils.  Average  Cost,  from  3d. 
per  cob.  Seasonable  in  August  and  September. 

1528.— MIXED   VEGETABLES   FOR   GARNISH. 

(Fr. — Macedoine  de  Legumes.) 

Ingredients. — Equal  quantities  of  carrots,  turnips,  peas,  salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  scrape  the  carrots  and  turnips,  shape  them 
round  or  oval  by  means  of  special  cutters  sold  as  vegetable  scoops. 
Boil  them  and  the  peas  separately  in  salted  water  until  tender,  then 
drain  well,  and  use  as  required.  Asparagus  points,  flageolets,  sprays 
of  cauliflower,  French  beans,  cut  into  diamonds,  all  may  be  used  in 
addition  to  the  above. 

1529.— MUSHROOMS,  BAKED.      (Fr.— Champignons 
au  Beurre.) 

Ingredients. — 16  or  20  cup  mushrooms,  butter,  pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — For  this  method  of  cooking,  the  cup  mushrooms  are  better 
than  the  buttons,  but  should  not  be  too  large.  Cut  off  a  portion  of 
stalk,  peel  the  top,  and  put  them  at  once  into  a  baking-dish,  with  a  very 
small  piece  of  butter  placed  on  each  mushroom;  sprinkle  over  a  little 
pepper,  and  let  them  bake  for  about  20  minutes,  or  longer,  should  the 
mushrooms  be  very  large.  Have  ready  a  very  hot  dish,  pile  the  mush- 
rooms high  in  the  centre,  pour  the  gravy  round,  and  send  them  to 
table  quickly  with  very  hot  plates. 

Time. — 20  minutes;  large  mushrooms,  -|  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  from 
6d.  to  9d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable,  meadow  mushrooms  in  September  and 
October  ;  cultivated  varieties  obtainable  all  the  year.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
persons. 

VARIETIES  OF  MUSHROOMS. — The  common  mushroom  found  in  our  pastures  is  the  Agaricus  campes- 
tris  of  science  ;  and  another  edible  British  species  is  A.  georgti,  but  A.  primulus  is  affirmed  to  be  the 
most  delicious  mushroom.  The  morel  is  Morckella  esculenta,  and  Tuber  cibarium  is  the  common 
truffle.  Of  late  years  much  scientific  research  has  been  devoted  to  fungi  of  all  descriptions,  and 
enthusiasts  have  put  to  the  test  the  suitability  of  mushrooms  and  fungi  for  food  purposes.  The 
list  of  edible  fungi  is  a  long  one,  but  it  requires  some  study  before  the  more  uncommon  kinds  can  be 
safely  ventured  upon. 

1530.— MUSHROOMS,    BROILED.       (Fr.— Champig- 
nons Grilles.) 

Ingredients. — Cup  mushrooms,  pepper  and  salt,  butter,  lemon -juice. 
Method. — Carefully  peel  the  mushrooms,  cut  off  a  portion  of  the  stalk, 
and  season  with  salt. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING   VEGETABLES          845 

Broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  them  once,  and  arrange  them  on  a 
very  hot  dish.  Put  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  each  mushroom,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  squeeze  over  them  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice. 

Time.  —  About  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from  6d.  per  Ib.     Seasonable 
in  September  and  October,  obtainable  all  the  year. 


LOCALITIES  OF  THE  MUSHROOM.  —  Mushrooms  are  to  be  met  with  in  pastures,  woods  and  marshes, 
but  are  very  capricious  and  uncertain  in  their  places  of  growth,  multitudes  being  obtained  in  one 
season  whecc  lew  or  none  were  to  be  found  in  the  preceding  year.  They  MmotinMs  grow  solitary, 
but  more  frequently  tb«y  are  gregarious,  and  rise  in  a  regular  circular  form.  Many  species  are  em- 
ployed by  man  as  food  ;  but,  generally  speaking,  they  are  difficult  of  digestion.  Many  of  them  are 
also  of  suspicious  qualities.  Little  reliance  can  be  placed  either  on  their  taste,  smell,  or  colour,  as 
much  depends  on  the  situation  on  which  they  vegetate,  and  even  the  same  plant,  it  is  affirmed,  may 
be  innocent  when  young,  but  become  noxious  when  advanced  in  age. 


I53I._MUSHROOMS,  PRESERVED,  WITH    BROWN 
SAUCE. 

Ingredients.  —  i  pint  tin  or  bottle  of  mushrooms,  i  oz.  of  butter,  I  oz. 
of  flour,  i  tablespoon  ful  of  sherry,  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Strain  the  liquor  from  the  tin  or  bottle,  and  add  to  it 
sufficient  stock  to  make  up  rather  more  than  $  a  pint.  Fry  the  butter 
and  flour  together  until  well-browned,  add  the  mushroom-liquor,  and 
the  mixture  until  it  boils.  Season  to  taste,  add  the  sherry,  put  in 
the  mushrooms,  and,  when  quite  hot,  serve  as  an  accom; 
broiled  chicken,  steak,  etc.  They  may  also  be  served  as  a  vegetable 
entremet,  in  which  case  the  mushrooms  should  be  neatly  arranged  on 
hot  buttered  toast. 

Time.  —  Altogether,  about  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,   is.   to   i?. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1532.—  MUSHROOMS,    STEWED.         (Fr.—  Champig- 
nons a  la  Creme.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  Ib.  of  button  mushrooms,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint 
of  cream  or  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  the  juice  of  ^  a  lemon, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Remove  the  skins,  and  cut  of!  the  ends  of  the  stalks. 
the  butter  in  a  stcwpan,  put  in  tin.-  mushrooms  and  lemon-juice,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for  about  $  an 
hour,  shaking  the  pan  occasionally.  Mix  the  flour  and  cream  or  milk 
smoothly  together,  pour  the  mixture  into  the  stewpan,  stir  until  the 
contents  boil,  simmer  for  10  minutes  to  cook  the  flour,  then,  if  the  mush- 
rooms arc  tender,  season  to  taste,  and  sc: 

Time.—  About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  £d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable,  meadow  mushro  j.ns  in  September  and 
October,  obtainable  all  the  y 

To   procure    mushrooms  at   all   seasons    pirl-ners   provide    th<r 
with  what  is  called  spawn   from  those  whose  business  it  is  to  propagate  it. 


846  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

When  thus  procured  it  is  usually  made  up  for  sale  in  quadrils  consisting  of 
numerous  white,  fibrous  roots,  having  a  strong  smell  of  mushrooms.  The 
spawn  is  planted  in  rows,  in  a  carefully-made  bed,  formed  of  seasoned  farm- 
yard compost  of  sifted  loam,  beaten  hard,  and  placed  in  a  dry  situation,  and 
carefully  attended  to  for  five  or  six  weeks,  when  the  bed  begins  to  produce, 
and  continues  to  do  so  for  several  months.  Cellars  are  often  utilized  for  this 
purpose.  In  Paris  most  of  the  mushrooms  are  grown  on  artificially-formed 
beds  in  dark,  disused  quarries. 

1533.— MUSHROOMS,     TINNED,       WITH      CREAM 
SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  bottle  or  tin  of  mushrooms,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Strain  off  the  liquor,  add  to  it  sufficient  milk  to  make  up 
rather  more  than  £  a  pint.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
flour,  stir  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then  put  in  the 
mushroom  liquor.  Stir  until  boiling,  season  to  taste,  put  in  the  mush- 
rooms, and  when  thoroughly  hot  stir  in  the  cream,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1534.— MUSHROOMS,  TO  KEEP  TEMPORARILY. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  mushrooms,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful 
of  lemon- juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel,  wash  and  thoroughly  dry  the  mushrooms.  Heat 
the  butter  in  a  LARGE  stewpan,  put  in  the  mushrooms,  season  lightly 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  lemon- juice.  Leave  the  pan  un- 
covered, and  cook  the  mushrooms  very  slowly  until  they  become 
quite  dry.  They  will  keep  good  for  several  days,  and  when  required 
for  use  should  be  re-heated  and  drained  free  from  butter.  They  may 
also  be  kept  for  some  time  if  closely  packed  in  a  shallow  piedish,  and 
covered  with  clarified  butter. 

I535-—  MUSHROOMS,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  quart  of  mushrooms  allow  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  clarified  butter. 

Method. — Peel  the  mushrooms,  put  them  into  cold  water,  with  a  little 
lemon-juice;  let  them  remain  for  10  minutes,  then  dry  them  very  care- 
fully in  a  cloth.  Put  the  butter  into  a  stewpan  capable  of  holding 
the  mushrooms;  when  it  is  melted,  add  the  mushrooms,  lemon-juice, 
and  a  seasoning  of  pepper  and  salt.  Draw  them  down  over  a  slow  fire, 
and  let  them  remain  until  their  liquor  is  boiled  away,  and  they  have 
become  quite  dry,  but  they  must  not  stick  to  the  bottom  of  the  stew- 
pan. When  done,  put  the  mushrooms  into  pots,  and  over  the  top 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  847 

pour  clarified   butter.     If   not    wanted   for  immediate   use,    they   will 
-ood  a  few  days  \\itl-.imt  I"  red  over.     To  re-\\.irm  them. 

put  the  mushrooms  into  a  stewp  La  the  butter  from  them,  and 

they  \\ill  be  P-, nl  v   inr 

Average  Cost.      I- mm  Sd.  p^r  Ib.     Seasonable,   meadow   mushrooms  in 
id  October,  obtainable  all  the  year. 

1536.— MUSHROOMS,    STUFFED.         (Fr.— Champig- 
nons  Farcis   au    Gratin.) 

Ingredients.     <>  medium-Mxcd   mushrooms,  6  round  croutes  of  fried 
lightly  larger  than  tho  mushmoms,   I   tablespoonful 
of  finely  -chopped  cooked  ham,  £  a  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  a 
teaspoon ful  <>f  Crated  Parme>an  i-ln-ese,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
mush  a  teaspoonful   of  finely -chopped   par-lev,    i 

onion  finely  chopp.  /.  ot  butter,  salt  and  pepper, browiie  i  bread- 

crumbs,   luov. 

Method.     Kemoye   the  Btatt  tons,   trim   the  mushrooms  to  a 

uniform  shape  \\ith  a  round  cutter,  and  use  the  trimmings  for  the 
mixture.  .Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  .  add  to  it  all  the  above 

ingredients,  except  the  butter,  b:  imbs,  and  brown  sauce, 

season  well  with  salt  and  popper,  stir  briskly  over  the  fire  until  well 
by  de^i  :uch   brown  sauce  as  is  necessary    t«> 

slightly  nmivt,  n  tin-  ui:«.le.  Tile  the  preparation  on  the  mushrooms, 
sprinkle  with  browned  breadcrumbs,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and 
b.ike  ti'tiin  io  to  15  minutes  in  a  moderate  o\ 

Time.— -Krom  30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  8d.  per  Ib. 
Sumcient  for  5  or  '•  persons.  Seasonable,  meadow  niushiooms  m  Sep- 
trmbrr  and  <  >«  t«>ber. 

I537-— MUSHROOMS    ON   TOAST.       (Fr.— Champig- 
nons sur  Croutes.) 

Ingredients. — An  equal  number  ot  n.«  (hum-sized  mushrooms  and 
slightly  larger  rounds  of  well  buttered  toast,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.     lv. •!  th«-  mushroi  it  a  portion  of  th- 

well  with  salt  and  pep}"  ,1  ,,ver 

a  •  it  ar  ti:  ia  a  pan  in  a  little  hot  batter.     .\\. 

ih«-  «  n  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time,      i .'   to   i;  miniites.     Average  Cost,  from  8d.    per  Ib.     Allow  I 
to  each  fenon.     Seasonable,  pnK-urabli-  . 

1538. -OKRA. 

cultuat.  d  in   I  i.     The  young  gr«  are  some- 


848  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

times  pickled,  and  the  older  pods  are  preserved  in  tins  for  export. 
Those  imported  resemble  gherkins  in  size,  but  their  ends  form  a  sharper 
point;  their  colour  is  lighter  and  less  vivid  in  tone,  and  their  pods 
contain  seeds  not  unlike  pearl  barley.  Okra  has  a  peculiar  flavour, 
often  disagreeable  to  an  unaccustomed  palate,  and  it  is  exceedingly 
mucilaginous,  the  pods  in  the  tin  being  surrounded  by  a  substance  of 
greater  viscidity  than  gum. 

IS39.—  OKRA,  TO  BOIL. 

Ingredients.  —  24  fresh  okras,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  oiled  butter,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Wash  the  okras  in  cold  water,  drain  them  well,  and  trim 
both  ends.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  salted  water, 
boil  gently  for  15  minutes,  or  until  tender,  and  drain  well.  Make 
the  butter  and  cream  hot  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  okras,  sprinkle 
liberally  with  pepper,  add  a  little  salt,  shake  them  over  the  fire  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time,  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  uncertain. 


1S40._OKRAS  AND  TOMATOES,  SCALLOPED. 

Ingredients.  —  £  of  a  tin  of  okras,  4  tomatoes  sliced,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  breadcrumbs,  £  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  %  a  pint  of 
milk,  salt  and  pepper,  browned  breadcrumbs  or  cracker  crumbs,  butter. 

Method.  —  Cut  the  okras  into  small  pieces,  halve  or  quarter  the  slices 
of  tomatoes,  mix  the  two  together,  and  add  the  breadcrumbs.  Heat 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  the  mixture  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  put  in  the  milk,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season  to 
taste,  and  simmer  gently  for  5  minutes.  Place  the  mixture  of  okras 
and  tomato  in  well-buttered  scallop  shells,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  add  a  little  sauce.  Cover  lightly  with  browned  bread- 
crumbs or  cracker  crumbs,  add  2  or  3  small  pieces  of  butter,  and  bake 
in  a  moderately-hot  oven  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Time.  —  To  bake  the  scallops,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
lod.  to  is.  Allow  i  scallop  to  each  person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1541.—  OKRAS,   TINNED,  TO  SERVE   AS   A   VEGE- 
TABLE. 

Ingredients.  —  i  tin  of  okras,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Turn  the  contents  of  the  tin  into  a  steel  stewpan,  make 
thoroughly  hot,  then  drain,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

Time.  —  To  re-heat,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKIXG    VEGETABLES  849 

1542.— ONIONS. 

Directions  given  for  preparing  and  cooking  Spanish  onions  are 
equally  applicable  to  other  varieties  less  mild  in  character.  When 
their  stronger  flavour  is  disliked,  it  may  be  partially  removed  by- 
blanching  them,  and  still  more  effectually  by  changing  the  water  two 
or  three  times. 

IS43-— ONIONS,  BURNT,  FOR  GRAVIES. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  onions  coarsely-chopped,  £  a  Ib.  of  moist 
sugar,  £  a  pint  of  water,  J  of  a  pint  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Place  the  onions  and  water  in  a  steel  stcwpan,  let  them  boil 
>r  6  minutes,  then  add  the  sugar,  and  simmer  gently  until  the 
preparation  becomes  nearly  black.  Have  the  vinegar  ready  boiling, 
p.mr  it  into  the  stewpan,  stir  until  well  mixed,  then  strain,  and 
cold,  bottle  for  use.  This  browning  must  be  used  very-  sparingly, 
or  it  will  impart  a  disagreeable  taste.  When  colouring  alone  is 
required,  it  is  safer  to  use  caramel,  recipes  for  which  will  be  found 
under  that  name. 

1544.— ONION  PIE. 

See  Chapter  XL!!  in  Cookery." 

1545.— ONIONS,  ROASTED.     (Fr.-Oignons  rotis.) 

Ingredients. — Onions,  cither  red  or  yell 

Method. — Top  and  tail  the  onions,  but  do  not  skin  them.     Put  them 
into  a  saucepan  containing  sufficient  boiling  salted  water  to  cover  them, 
boil  gently  until  nearly  done,  then  drain  and  dry  thorough 
the  onions  in  a  tin,  or  in  a  Dutch  oven,  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  and  roast 
them   for   15  or  20   minutes,   turning   them   frequcnth  as  a 

sh  to  roast  fowl. 

Time. — To  boil  the  onions,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2d.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  at  ai 

1546.— ONIONS,  SPANISH,  BAKED.    (Fr.— Oignons.^ 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  Spanish  onions,  salt  and  water. 
Method. — Put  the  onions,  with  their  skins  on,  into  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water,  slightly  salted,  and  let  them  boil  qimklv  (or   I   hour. 
Then  t  iko  them  out,  wipe  them  thoroughly,  wrap  each  one  in  a  piece 
of  buttered  paper,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  2  hours,  or 
should  the  onions  be  very  large.     They  may  be  D  their 

and  eaten  with  a  piece  of  cold  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  pepper 
dt;  or  they  may  be  peeled,  and  a  good  brown  gravy  pourc<; 
them. 


850  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours  to  boil;  2  hours  to  bake.  Average  Cost, 
2d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  October  to 
April. 

PROPERTIES  OF  THE  ONION. — The  onion  is  possessed  of  a  white,  acrid,  volatile  oil,  holding  sulphur 
in  solution,  albumen,  a  quantity  of  uncrystallizable  sugar,  and  mucilage,  phosphoric  acid,  both  free 
and  combined  lime,  acetic  acid,  citrate  of  lime,  and  lignine.  Of  all  the  species  of  allium,  the  onion 
has  the  volatile  principle  in  the  greatest  degree  ;  and  hence  it  is  impossible  to  separate  the  scales 
of  the  root  without  the  eyes  being  affected.  The  juice  is  sensibly  acid,  and  is  capable  of  being,  by 
fermentation  converted  into  vinegar,  and  mixed  with  water  or  dregs  of  beer  yields  by  distillation 
an  alcoholic  liquor.  Although  used  as  a  common  esculent,  onions  are  not  suited  to  all  stomachs  ; 
some  persons  cannot  eat  them  either  fried  or  roasted,  whilst  others  prefer  them  boiled,  which  is  the 
best  way  of  using  them,  as  by  the  process  they  then  undergo  they  are  deprived  of  their  essential  oil. 
Afany  people  who  cannot  eat  onions  in  a  pie  or  stew,  when  they  are  put  in  raw,  find  them  quite 
digestible  if  they  are  first  scalded  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Anaemic  persons,  and  those  of  a 
consumptive  tendency,  frequently  evince  a  great  liking  for  onions,  and  they  prove  a  most  useful 
food  for  such  invalids. 

1547.— ONIONS,  SPANISH,  BAKED.  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Spanish  onions,  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  233 )> 
butter  or  fat,  salt. 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  put  them  into  cold  water,  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  boil  gently  for  £  an  hour,  then  strain.  Have  ready  in  a 
baking-dish  some  hot  butter  or  hot  fat,  baste  the  onions  well,  place 
them  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  for  i£  hours,  basting  frequently. 
When  done  they  should  be  well  browned.  Serve  in  a  hot  vegetable- 
dish  with  the  sauce  poured  over  them. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  2 d.  to  3d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
from  October  to  April. 

1548.— ONIONS,   SPANISH,  BOILED.     (Fr.— Oignons 
d'Espagne  bouillis.) 

Ingredients. — Spanish  onions,  white  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  223),  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  put  them  into  cold  water,  bring  to  the  boilr 
and  strain.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  add  to  it  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  put  in  the  onions,  and  boil  gently  from  i|  to  2  hours, 
according  to  size.  Or  they  may  be  steamed,  in  which  case  about  £  an 
hour  longer  must  be  allowed.  Serve  with  the  white  sauce  poured  over 
them. 

Time. — From  i  £  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  2d.  to  3d.  per  Ib.  Season- 
able from  October  to  April. 

I549-— ONIONS,  SPANISH,  STEWED.     (Fr.— Oignons 
au  Jus.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  medium-sized  Spanish  onions,  i  pint  of  brown 
stock  or  gravy. 

Method. — Peel  and  trim  the  onions,  cover  them  with  cold  water,, 
bring  to  the  boil,  and  strain.  Select  a  stewpan  large  enough  to  allow 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  851 

the  onions  to  stand  side  by  side,  put  in  the  stock,  cover  closely,  and 
simmer  gently  from  i  to  i£  hours.  Serve  in  a  hot  vegetable  dish  with 
the  gravy  poured  round. 

Time. — From  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2d.  to  3d.  per  Ib.  Season- 
able from  October  to  April. 

! 550.— ONIONS,  SPANISH,  STEWED.    (Fr.— Oignons 
au  Jus.)      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  $  medium-sized  Spanish  onions,  3  ozs.  of  butter. 

Method. — Blanch  the  onions  as  in  the  preceding  recipe.  Heat  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  stand  the  onions  side  by  side,  cover  closely,  and 
cook  very  gently  at  the  side  of  the  stove  for  about  2  hours,  basting 
frequently.  Serve  with  the  butter  poured  over. 

Time. — From  2  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  2d.  to  3d.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  from  October  to  April. 

I55I_ONIONS,  SPANISH,  STUFFED.    (Fr.— Oignons 

Farcis.) 

Ingredients. — 6  or  8  rather  Miiall  Spanish  onions,  4  tablespoonfuls  of 
finely-chopped  liver  or  raw  meat  (cooked  meat  of  any  kind  may  I" 
instead),   i    tablespoonful  of  parboiled  finely-chopped  onion,   i   table- 
spoonful  of  bivadt  i  -iimb-  ispoonful  of  powd-  <>r  mixed 
.It  and  pepper,   4  <>t  a    pint    ot    brown    sauce  (see  S.< 

Method.      Skin  and  parboil   th»-  onions,  t|,m  with  a  round  cut' 
small  knit-  the  centre  part.      Mix  all   tin-  in-ivdie! 

(he  brown  •;!!  the  onions  with   the  preparation, 

them  well  with  hot  butter  or  dripping,  and  bake  in  a  mod. 
from     ;<>    to    40    minutes.    b.  jiientlv.  vith    the 

poured  <>• 

Time.— From  ij  to  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  from  October  to  April. 

See  als<  r  on  American  Cookery. 

1552.— PARSNIPS,  BOILED.    (Fr.— PanaisauNaturel.) 

Ingredients. — Parsnips;   to  each   £  gallon  !<>w    i    heaped 

tablespoonful   of  salt. 

Method.      Wash  the  par-nip •..  -nape  tin  m  thoroughly,  and  with  the 

point    ot    die   Unite   iviiM.\e  any   Mat  k   sp.-«  ks  about    tin-in,   and   should 

thev   !  cut    the  thick  part   into  «p.  Tut    them  into 

ot  boiln:  d  in  tin  .^portion,  bod  them 

rapidly  until  tender,  winch  may  be  .:  -hem  with 


852  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

a  fork  or  skewer,  take  them  up,  drain  them,  and  serve  in  a  vegetable- 
dish.  This  vegetable  is  usually  served  with  salt  fish,  boiled  pork  or 
boiled  beef;  when  sent  to  table  with  the  latter,  a  few  should  be  placed 
alternately  with  carrots  round  the  dish,  as  a  garnish. 

Time.  —  Large  parsnips,  i  to  i£  hours;  small  ones,  %  to  i  hour.  Average 
Cost,  2d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  from  October  to  May. 

THE  PARSNIP  (Fr.  panais).  —  This  vegetable  is  found  wild  in  meadows  all  over  Europe,  and  in  Eng- 
land is  met  with  very  frequently  on  dry  banks  in  a  chalky  soil.  In  its  wild  state  the  root  is  white, 
mucilaginous,  aromatic  and  sweet.  The  cultivated  parsnip  is  much  used,  and  is  a  highly  nutritious 
vegetable.  In  times  of  scarcity,  an  excellent  bread  has  been  made  of  its  roots,  and  they  also  furnish 
an  excellent  wine,  resembling  the  malmsey  of  Madeira  and  the  Canaries  ;  a  spirit  is  also  obtained 
from  them  in  as  great  quantities  as  from  carrots.  The  composition  of  the  parsnip-root  has  been 
found  to  be  in  100  parts,  79^4  of  water,  6*9  starch  and  fibre,  6'i  gum,  3*5  sugar,  and  2'i  of  albumen. 

1553.—  PARSNIPS,  FRIED.      (Fr.—  Panais  Frits.) 

Ingredients.  —  Parsnips,  salt  and  pepper,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  or 
frying-batter. 

Method.  —  Boil  the  parsnips  as  in  the  preceding  recipe  (cold  ones  may 
be  used),  cut  them  into  slices,  about  £  an  inch  in  thickness,  sprinkle 
them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  either  coat  them  with  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, or  dip  them  into  batter.  In  either  case,  they  must  be  fried 
until  golden-brown  in  hot  fat. 

Average  Cost,  2d.  per  Ib.     Seasonable  from  October  to  May. 

1554.—  PARSNIPS,  MASHED. 

See  Turnips,  Mashed,  Recipe  No.  1627. 

IS55._PEAS,  GREEN.     (Fr.—  Petits  Pois  Verts.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  quart  of  cooked  green  peas,  2  ozs.  of  lean  cooked  ham 
cut  into  dice,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  good  stock,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  £  a  small  onion  finely-chopped,  a  pinch  of  castor 
sugar,  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Fry  the  onion  until  lightly  browned  in  the  butter,  add  the 
flour  and  ham,  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  minute  or  two,  then  put  in  the 
peas,  stock,  sugar,  and  nutmeg.  Season  to  taste,  simmer  for  10  minutes, 
stirring  occasionally,  then  serve. 

Time.  —  About  i  hour,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  May  to  September. 


IS56.—  PEAS,   GREEN,    BOILED.      (Fr.—  Petits    Pois 
verts  a  TAnglaise.) 

Ingredients.  —  Green  peas,  mint,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Shell  the  peas,  put  them  into  boiling  water,  add  a  little  salt 
and  a  sprig  of  mint,  and  boil,  with  the  saucepan  uncovered,  from  10 
to  25  minutes,  according  to  age  and  variety.  Drain  well,  put  them 
into  a  hot  vegetable  dish,  season  with  pepper,  add  a  small  piece  of 
butter,  and  serve. 


RECIPES    FOR   COOKING    VEGETABLES  853 

Time. — From  10  to  25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from  6d.  per  peck. 
Seasonable  from  May  to  September;  most  plentiful  in  July  and  August. 

ORIGIN  OF  THE  PEA. — All  the  varieties  of  garden  peas  which  are  cultivated  have  originated  from  the 
Fisum  satii'um,  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe  ;  and  field  peas  are  varieties  of  Pvsum  anetut.  Th« 
..;  pea  is  I.itkym  lali/olius,  an  old  favourite  of  flower  gardens.  It  is  said  to  yield  an  abund- 
ance of  honey  to  bees,  who  are  remarkably  fond  of  it.  In  this  country  the  pea  has  been  grown  from 
time  immemorial,  but  its  culture  seems  to  have  diminished  since  the  more  general  introduction  of 
herbage,  plants  and  roots. 

1557.— PEAS,  FRENCH  STYLE.  (Fr.— Petite  Pois  a  la 
Fran^aise.) 

Ingredients. — 1|  pints  of  shelled  peas,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  mint,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  peas  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  drain  off  the  water, 

hake  the  saucepan  over  the  fire  until  the  greater  part  of  the 

moisture  has  evaporated.     Then  put  in  the  butter  and  parsley,  season 

pepper,  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  and  ser 
Time. — From  20  to  35  minutes.     Avenge  Cost,  from  6d.  per  peck. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  from  May  to  September. 


the  grev  varieties  are  the  early  grey,  th«  late  grey,  and  the  purpto  my,  to  which  MOM  add  the 
Martborough  grey  and  the  horn  grey'.  The  white  varieties  grown  in  fields  an  the  pearl,  early  Chart- 
too,  golden  hotspur,  the  common  white,  or  Suffolk,  and  other  Suffolk  varieties 


1558.— PEAS,  GREEN,  STEWED.      (Fr.— Petite  Pois 
a  la  Frangaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  peas,  i  lettuce,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste,  i  egg,  £  a  teaspoon ful  of  powdered  sugar. 

Method. — Shell  the  peas,  and  slice  the  onions  and  cut  lettuces,  into  fine 

shreds  ;  put  these  into  a  stewpan  with  the  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  but  no 

more  water  than  that  which  hangs  round  the  lettuce  after  washing  it. 

he  whole  very  gently  for  rather  more  than  i  hour,  then  stir  into  the 

mixture  a  well-beaten  egg,  and  about  |  a  tcaspoonful  of  powdered 

Icndcd,  serve,  but  after  the 
egg  is  added,  do  not  allow  them  to  re -boil. 

Time.— i ^  hours.  Average  Cost  per  peck.  Seasonable  from 

May  to  September.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 


THE  Swi  i  ;  K  ATM  o*  WOOD  P«A. — The  wrfl-known  swret  pea  form 

covering  to  a  trellis,  or  lattice-work  in  a  flower  garden.     Its  fay  and  fragrant  flowers,  with  its  ramb- 
ling ha  bit*,  render  it  peculiarly  adapted  for  such  purpose*.     The  wood  pea  or  heath 
to  the  heaths  of  Scotland,  and  the  Highlanders  of  that  country  are  extremely  partial  t 

•f. 


.,,,1  .uc  „.,:-,•   ..< 

a  for k  will  paw  through 


854  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1559.— PEAS,  TINNED,  TO  DRESS. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  preserved  peas,  butter,  mint,  sugar,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Strain  the  liquor  from  the  peas,  and  wash  and  drain  them 
well.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  add  2  or  3  sprigs  of 
mint,  and  when  they  have  infused  for  5  minutes,  put  in  the  peas, 
together  with  a  little  salt  and  a  good  pinch  of  sugar.  Let  the  peas 
remain  in  the  water  for  a  few  minutes,  then  drain  them  well,  sprinkle 
them  with  pepper,  and  add  a  little  cold  butter.  Or,  instead  of  serving 
them  plainly,  dress  them  as  directed  under  the  heading  Peas.  When 
fresh  mint  is  not  procurable,  serve  the  peas  sprinkled  with  powdered 
mint. 

Time. — To  heat  the  peas,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  pd.  to  lod, 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1560.— PEASE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  split  peas,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Put  the  peas  to  soak  over  night  in  water,  and  float  off  any 
that  may  be  worm-eaten  or  discoloured.  Tie  them  loosely  in  a  clean  cloth, 
leaving  a  little  room  for  them  to  swell,  and  put  them  on  to  boil  in  cold 
rain-water,  allowing  2%  hours  after  the  water  has  simmered  up.  When 
the  peas  are  tender,  well  rub  them  through  a  colander  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  and  add  the  butter,  eggs,  pepper  and  salt.  Beat  all  well  together 
for  a  few  minutes,  until  the  ingredients  are  well  incorporated,  then 
tie  them  tightly  in  a  floured  cloth,  and  boil  the  pudding  for 
another  hour.  Turn  it  on  to  the  dish,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  yd.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1561.— POTATOES,  BAKED.  (Fr—  Pommes  de  Terre.) 

Ingredients. — Potatoes. 

Method. — Choose  large  potatoes,  as  much  of  a  size  as  possible;  wash 
them  in  lukewarm  water,  and  scrub  them  well,  for  the  brown  skin  of  a 
baked  potato  is  by  many  persons  considered  the  better  part  of  it. 
Put  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  them  for  about  2  hours,  turning 
them  3  or  4  times  while  they  are  cooking.  Serve  them  in  a  napkin 
immediately  they  are  done,  for,  if  they  are  kept  a  long  time  in  the  oven 
they  will  have  a  shrivelled  appearance.  Potatoes  may  also  be  roasted 
before  the  fire  in  an  American  oven;  but  when  thus  cooked,  they  must 
be  done  very  slowly. 

Time. — From  i  to  2  hours,  according  to  size.  Average  Cost,  id.  per  lbv 
Seasonable  all  the  year. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKINV.    VEGETABLES  855 

I562. — POTATO  BALLS.    (Fr.— Croquettes  de  Pommes 
de  Terre.) 

Ingredients.     M  otatoes,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste;  when  liked, 

a  very  little  minced  parsley,  egg  and  breadcrumbs. 

Method.— Boil    and     mash    the     potatoes     (see    Potatoes,    Mashed, 

0,    1575),   add   a  seasoning  of    pepper   and  salt,  and,  when 

liked,  a  little  minced  parsley.     Roll    the   potatoes    into  small  balls. 

them  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  oil  or  dripping 

until  light-brown.     Let  them  c'nin  on  a  cloth  or  paper,  dish  them  on  a 

napkin,  and  serve. 

Time.      n>  minutes  to  fry  the  balls.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

-The  potato  belongs  to  the  family  of  the  Solanaceae.  the  greater  number  of  which 

:  lie  tropics,  and  the  remainder  are  distributed  over  the  temperate  regions  of  both  hemispheres . 

but  do  not  extend  to  the  Arctic  and  Antarctic  tone*.      The  whole  of  the  family  possess  valuable 

some  species  are  narcotic,  as  the  tobacco-plant,  and  others,  as  the  henbane  and  nightshade, 

are  deleterious.    The  roots  partake  of  the  properties  of  the  plants,  and  are  sometimes  even  more 

Ilie  tubers  of  such  as  produce  them  ar*  amylaceous  and  nutritive,  as  in  the 
potato.     The  leaves  are  generally  narcotic,  but  they  lose  this  pr 
mum  nt-rum,  which  is  used  as  a  vegetable  when  cooked 


principle  in  boiling,  as  la  the  case  with 


1563.— POTATO  CHIPS. 

See  Potatoe  :\*e  No.  1569. 

1564.-  POTATO  CROQUETTES. 

See  i 

1565.— POTATOES,  BOILED.    (/•>.— Pommes  de  Terre 
au  Naturel.) 

Ingredients     Potatoes,  salt. 

Method. — Choose  potatoes  of  equal  size,  scrub  them,  peel  them  thinly, 

.1  in  clean  cold  water,  t>ut  do  not  let  them  remain  in  it 

for  more  than  10  minutes.     I'ut  them  into  a  saucepan,  with  sufficient 

I'.'MI  IH  Id  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  quart 

Minutes. according  to  age  and 
size.     Ascertain   when   they  are  don<  ing  one  with 

in  oft  tl  put  the  saucepan  by  • 

with  the  lid  tilted,  to  allow  the  steam  to  escape,  let   t:  in  tor 

1    HI   minutes,   then   se: 
Time.     From  Id  to  4..  minutes.     Average  Cost,  id.  per  Ib.     Seasonable 

led  as  to  whether  potatoes  should  be  put  in; 

• 

>tt»m.  \vhrrru--  <>  have 

J  the  culi'  assert, 

reason,  tt  under 

t..  the  tempo:  ..ilmn  water,  at  once  h 


856  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

forming  an  impervious  layer  that  prevents  the  water  reaching  the  inner 
starchy  part  of  the  potato.  Consequently,  the  potatoes  are  more  dry  and 
floury  than  they  would  otherwise  be.  Potatoes  may  be  kept  hot  for  some 
time,  without  spoiling,  if  covered  with  a  folded  cloth  to  absorb  the  moisture, 
and  the  saucepan  itself  uncovered,  to  allow  the  steam  to  escape. 

POTATO-SUGAR. — This  sugar  substance,  found  in  the  tubers  of  potatoes,  is  obtained  in  the  form 
of  syrup  or  treacle.  It  resembles  grape-sugar,  is  not  crystallizable,  and  is  less  sweet  than  cane-sugar. 
It  is  used  to  make  sweetmeats  and  as  a  substitute  for  honey.  60  Ib.  of  potatoes,  yielding  8  Ib.  of  dry 
starch,  will  produce  7i  Ib.  of  sugar.  In  Russia  it  is  extensively  made,  and  is  as  good,  though  of  less 
consistency,  than  the  treacle  obtained  from  cane-sugar.  A  cheap  and  common  spirit  is  also  distilled 
from  the  tubers,  which  resembles  brandy,  but  is  milder,  and  has  a  flavour  resembling  the  odour  of 
violets  or  raspberries.  In  France  this  manufacture  is  carried  on  somewhat  extensively,  and  500  Ib. 
of  the  tubers  will  produce  12  Ib.  of  the  spirits,  the  pulp  being  utilized  for  feeding  cattle." 


1566.— POTATOES,  COLD,  TO  USE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cold  potatoes,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
finely-chopped  onion,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pass  the  potatoes  through  a  sieve,  or  beat  them  smooth 
with  a  fork.  Add  the  butter,  onion,  and  sufficient  milk  to  moisten 
them,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  press  the  mixture 
into  a  well-greased  mould  or  basin.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about 
^  an  hour,  then  turn  the  potatoes  out  and  serve.  For  other  methods 
of  utilising  cold  potatoes,  see  Bubble  and  Squeak,  Potato  Balls, 
Potatoes,  Mashed  and  Baked,  and  Potatoes  with  Maitre  d'Hotel 
Sauce. 

Time. — To  bake  the  mould,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2d.  to 
2^d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1567.— POTATOES,  CRISP. 

See  Potatoes,  Fried,  Recipe  No.  1 569. 


1568.— POTATOES  WITH  CHEESE.     '(Fr.— Souffle  de 
Pommes  de  Terre  au  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 3  medium-sized  potatoes,  2  whites  of  eggs,  i  yolk  of 
egg,  i  heaped  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk, 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper 

Method. — Scrub  the  potatoes  and  bake  them  in  their  skins.  When 
ready,  cut  in  halves,  empty  the  skins  into  a  small  stewpan,  add  the 
cheese,  butter,  yolk  of  egg,  milk  and  parsley,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  mix  well  over  the  fire-  Beat  the  whites  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  in, 
then  fill  the  potato  skins  with  the  mixture,  piling  it  somewhat  high. 
Brush  over  with  a  little  yolk  of  egg,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
about  15  minutes. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING   VEGETABLES  857 

Time.  —  From  i*  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


.  —  This  mixture  can  also  be  baked  in  scallop  shells  or  patty-pans, 
which  should  be  previously  well  buttered  and  covered  with  breadcrumbs. 

ANALYSIS  OF  THE  POTATO.—  Next  to  the  seeds  of  the  cereals,  the  potato  is  the  most  valuable  plant 
for  the  production  of  human  food.  Its  tubers,  according  to  analysis,  contain  the  followins;  ingrrdi- 
ents  :  75'52  starch.  0^55  dextrine,  3*3  of  impure  saccharine  matter,  and  3-25  of  fibre  with  coo  mi  la  tod 
albumen.  In  a  dried  state  the  tuber  contains  64^2  per  cent,  of  starch  2*25  of  dextrine,  13*47  of  impure- 
sacrharine  matter,  5-13  of  caseine,  gluten  and  albumen,  i  of  fatty  matter,  and  13*31  of  fibre  and 
coagulated  albumen. 

1569.—  POTATOES,  FRIED.     (Fr.—  Pommes  de  Terre 
Frites.) 

Ingredients.  —  Potatoes,  hot  oil  or  clarified  dripping,  salt. 

Method.  —  Peel  and  cut  the  potatoes  in^>  thin  slices,  as  nearly  the 
same  size  as  possible,  parboil  them,  and  dry  them  in  a  cloth.  Make 
some  oil  or  dripping  quite  hot  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  potatoes,  and! 
fry  to  a  nice  brown.  When  they  arc  crisp  and  done  take  them  up,. 
drain  them  on  paper  before  the  fire,  ana  serve  very  hot,  after  sprinkling 
them  with  salt.  These  are  delicious  with  rump-steak,  and  in  France- 
are  frequently  served  as  a  breakfast  dish.  The  remains  of  cold  potatoes. 
may  be  sliced  and  fried  by  the  above  recipe,  but  the  slices  must  be  cut 
a  little  thick 

Time.  —  Sliced  raw  potatoes,  25  minutes;  cooked  potatoes,  15  minutes. 
Average  Cost,  id.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

n.—  Potatoes  hotted  and  beateu  with  tow  milk  form  a  sort  of  eheese  which  it- 
made  in  Saxony,  and  when  kept  <n  close  vessel*  may  b*  preserved  for  several  years.  Potatoes  which 
have  been  exposed  to  the  air  and  become  green  are  very  unwholesome.  It  it  asserted  that  potatoes 
will  clean  linen  as  well  as  soap  ;  and  it  is  well  known  that  the  berries  of  Solatium  iaponacevm  are  used. 
in  Peru  for  the  same  purpose. 

1570.—  POTATOES,  FRIED.     (Fr.—  Pommes  de  Terre 
Frites.)     (Another  Method.), 

Ingredients.  —  6  potatoes,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  salt. 

Method.  —  Peel  the  potatoes  very  evenly,  cut  them  into  slices  as  thin 
as  possible.  Place  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  as  soon  a 
boiling  add  the  sliced  potatoes,  and  fry  them  of  a  bright  gold  colour, 
shaking  them  so  as  to  cook  them  equally.  Drain  on  sheets  of  paper 
before  the  fire,  powder  with  salt,  and  serve  very  hot.  Serve  with 
game. 

Time.  —  10  to  12  minutes  to  fry.  Average  Cost,  id.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  ; 

•  TATo  BREAD.  —  The  adhesive  tendency  of  the  flour  of  the  j 

th  wheat  en  flour 
;  he  made  into 

small  \\cxxlcn  frame,  nearly  square,   is  laid  on  a  pan  like  a  frying-pa; 
is  grooved  and  so  constnu  .cans  of  a  presscr  or  lid  introduced 


858          HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

into  the  groove,  the  cake  is  at  once  fashioned,  according  to  the  dimensions 
of  the  mould.  The  frame  containing  the  farina  may  he  almost  immediately 
withdrawn  after  the  mould  is  formed  upon  the  pan,  because  from  the 
consistency  imparted  to  the  incipient  cake  by  the  heat,  it  will  speedily  admit 
of  being  safely  handled  ;  it  must  not,  however,  be  fried  too  hastily.  '  It  will 
then  eat  very  palatably,  and  might  from  time  to  time  be  soaked  for  pud- 
dings, like  tapioca,  or  be  used  like  the  casada-cake,  for,  when  well  buttered 
and  toasted,  it  is  excellent  for  breakfast. 

1571.— POTATOES,  IRISH  WAY  TO  BOIL. 

(Fr. — Pommes  de  Terre  a  P  Irlandaise.) 

Ingredients. — Potatoes,  water. 

Method. — Wash  and  scrub  the  potatoes,  but  do  not  peel  them.  Put 
them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  boil  slowly  until  they  can  be 
easily  pierced  with  a  fork,  tttfcn  immediately  add  sufficient  cold  water 
to  reduce  the  temperature  several  degrees  below  boiling  point.  Let 
them  remain  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  pour  off  the  water,  cover  the 
potatoes  with  a  folded  cloth,  and  allow  them  to  stand  by  the  side  of 
the  fire  until  the  steam  has  evaporated.  Peel  them  quickly,  and 
send  them  to  table  in  an  open  dish,  in  order  that  the  steam  may  escape, 
otherwise  the  potatoes  may  be  watery. 

Time. — To  boil  the  potatoes,  from  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
id.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1572.— POTATO  RIBBONS,  FRIED.    (Fr.— Pommes  de 
Terre  Frites.) 

Ingredients. — Potatoes,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Peel  the  potatoes,  throw  them  into  cold  water  for  10 
minutes,  dry  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  peel  them  into  ribbons,  \  an  inch 
wide,  with  a  small  sharp  knife,  cutting  round  and  round.  Divide 
these  into  6-inch  lengths,  tie  into  knots,  fry  in  a  frying-basket  in  a  deep 
pan  of  hot  fat  until  golden-brown,  then  drain  well  on  a  paper,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  5  to  6  minutes  to  fry.  Average  Cost,  id.  per  Ib.  Season- 
able at  any  time. 

PRESERVING  POTATOES. — In  general,  potatoes  are  stored  or  preserved  in  pits,  cellars,  pies  or  camps ; 
but,  whatever  method  is  adopted,  it  is  essential  that  the  tubers  are  perfectly  dry,  otherwise  they  will 
surely  rot ;  and  a  few  rotten  potatoes  will  contaminate  a  whole  mass.  The  pie,  as  it  is  calUd,  con- 
sists of  a  trench,  lined  and  covered  with  straw,  the  potatoes  in  it  being  piled  in  the  shape  of  a  house  roof, 
to  the  height  of  about  three  feet.  The  camps  are  shallow  pits,  filled  and  ridged  up  in  a  similar  manner, 
covered  up  with  the  excavated  mould  of  the  pit.  In  Russia  and  Canada,  the  potato  is  pr<  served 
in  boxes,  in  houses  or  cellars,  heated,  when  necessary,  by  stoves  to  a  temperature  of  one  or  two  degrees 
above  the  freezing-point.  To  keep  potatoes  for  a  considerable  time,  the  best  way  is  to  place  them 
in  thin  layers  on  "a  platform  suspended  in  an  ice-cellar ;  there  the  temperature  being  always  below 
that  of  active  vegetation,  they  will  not  sprout ;  while,  riot  being  above  one  or  two  decrees  below 
freezing  point,  the  tubers  will  not  be  frost-bitten.  Another  method  is  to  scoop  out  the  eyes,  with  a 
very  small  scoop,  and  keep  the  roots  buried  in  earth  ;  a  third  method  is  to  destroy  the  vital  principle, 
by  kiln-drying,  steaming,  or  scalding  ;  a  fourth  is  to  bury  them  so  deep  in  dry  soil,  that  no  change  of 
temperature  will  reach  them,  and  thus,  being  without  air,  they  will  remain  upwards  of  a  year  without 
vegetating. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  859 

1573.— POTATOES,  GERMAN  METHOD  OF  COOK- 
ING. (Fr.—  Pommes  de  Terre  a  1'Alle- 
mande.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  medium-sized  potatoes,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  2  tablespoon fu Is  of  vinegar,  £  a  pint  of  stock,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  and  slice  the  potatoes  thinly.  Heat  the  butter  in  a 
sttwpan,  add  the  flour,  and,  when  lightly  browned,  stir  in  the  stock 
and  vinegar.  Bring  to  the  boil,  season  to  taste,  put  in  the  sliced 
potatoes,  and  simmer  very  gently  until  tender. 

Time. — About  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  sd.  Sufficient  tor 
3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1574.— POTATOES,    LYONNAISE    STYLE. 

(Fr. — Pommes  de  Terre  a  la  Lyonnaise.) 

Ingredients. — 6  or  8  boiled  potatoes  sliced,  3  rather  small  onu»n>. 
i£  ozs.  of  butter,  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  cut  them  ACROSS  into  slices, 
brown  in  butter,  and  keep  them  hot.  Strain  and  return  the  butter 
to  the  saute-pan,  put  in  the  sliced  potato  and  try  until  wcll-browiu-d. 
keeping  the  slices  unbroken.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  serve  on  a 
hot  dish  garnished  with  the  fried  slices  of  onion,  and  sprinkle  hjihtly 
with  parsley. 

Time. — To  cook  the  onions,  from  5  to  <s  minutes;  to  ttoes, 

•:nites.    Average  Cost,  ;d.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.     Seasonable 
at  any   tune. 

1575.— POTATOES,  MASHED.    (Fr.  Puree  de  Pommes 
de  Terre.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  potatoes,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls 

ol   milk,    - 

Method.— Peel  and  steam  the  potatoes  over  a  saucepan  of  V* 

or  boil  them  in   their  skins,  and  afterwards  peel  them.        In 
either  case,  pass  the  potatr  ,>sh   them 

will  with  a  fork.     Heat  the  butter  in  a  stew:  the  mil 

in  the  potato,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt.      Heat  well  with  a  wvxxlen 
spoon,   pile    lightly   in   a  hot    dish,    then    servo.      See    Potato 
rmicelli 

Time.     To  steam  the  pot  at-  Average  Cost, 

id.  per  Ib.     Sufficient  lor  3  persons.     Seasonable  at  anv 

1576.-  POTATOES,  MASHED  AND  BAKED. 

(Fr. — Pommes  de  Terre  a  la  Duchess 
Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cold  mashed  potato,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  h. 


86o  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese,  preferably  Parmesan,  i  tablespoonful 
of  milk  (about),  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  potatoes,  and  rub  them  through  a  sieve  whilst 
hot.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together  in  a  stewpan  over  the  fire, 
then  spread  it  on  a  floured  board,  and  shape  into  rolls  about  2^  inches 
long,  and  rather  less  than  i  inch  in  width.  Or,  cut  into  triangular 
or  diamond-shaped  pieces,  place  on  a  greased  baking-tin,  brush  over 
with  egg,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  nicely  browned. 
Before  serving,  brush  over  with  warm  butter,  and  sprinkle  with  finely- 
chopped  parsley.  The  potatoes  may  be  served  as  a  separate  dish, 
or  used  as  a  garnish  for  many  entrees  and  "  dressed  vegetables." 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  6d.  Seasonable 
at  any  time. 

I577-— POTATO  NESTS. 

See  Potatoes  with  Cheese.  (Recipe  No.  1568).  The  cheese  is 
usually,  but  not  necessarily,  omitted  in  Potato  Nests. 

1578.— POTATO  PUFF. 

See  Potato  Souffle,  Recipe  No.  1 586.  When  small  puffs  are  required, 
force  themixture  on  to  a  greased  baking-tin  in  small  rounds,  and 
cook  in  a  moderately-hot  oven  until  lightly -browned. 

IS79-— POTATOES,  PARISIAN.     (Fr.— Pommes  Pari- 
sienne.) 

Ingredients. — Potatoes,  2  or  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  salt. 

Method. — With  a  large  round  vegetable  scoop  prepare  as  many 
potatoes  as  may  be  required.  To  i  pint  allow  the  above  proportions 
of  butter  and  parsley.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  potatoes 
over  the  fire  until  well  browned,  then  cook  more  slowly  in  the  oven 
until  tender.  Drain  off  the  butter,  season  with  salt,  sprinkle  with 
parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  id.  per  Ib,  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 

1580.— POTATOES  WITH  JACKETS. 

See  Potatoes,  Irish  Way  to  Boil,  Recipe  No.  1571. 

1581.— POTATOES,  ROASTED. 

See  Potatoes,  Baked,  Recipe  No.  1561. 

1582.— POTATO  RISSOLES. 

See  Potato  Balls,  Recipe  No.  1562. 


RECIPES   FOR   COOKING    VEGETABLES  861 

I583._POTATOESWITHMAiTRE  D'HOTEL  SAUCE. 
(Fr. — Pommes  de  Terre  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  boiled  potatoes,  £  a  pint  of  stock  or  milk,  the  yolk  of 
i  egg,  i  oz.  of  butter,  a  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  £  tablespoonf  ul  of  chopped 
parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  potatoes  into  thick  slices.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock  or  milk,  and  boil  well  from 
10  to  15  minutes.  Season  to  taste,  put  in  the  slices  of  potatoes,  lot  them 
become  thoroughly  hot,  then  draw  the  stewpan  aside,  put  in  the  1« 
juice  and  parsley,  add  the  yolk  of  egg,  and  stir  gently  until  it  thickens. 
The  egg  may  be  omitted,  in  which  case  a  level  tablespoonf  ul  of  flour 
must  be  substituted  for  the  smaller  quantity  given  ab<> 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Seasonable  at  any- 
time. 

1584.— POTATOES,  SAUTE   OR   TOSSED. 

(Fr. — Pommes  de  Terre  Sautees.^ 

Ingredients. — Potatoes,  salt  and  pepper.  To  5  or  6  allow  i  oz.  of 
butter. 

Method. — Choose  rather  waxy  and  even-sized  potatoes,  wash  and  boil 
them  in  their  skins  until  three  parts  cookc  .loroughly, 

then  peel  and  slice  them  rather  thinly.  Heat  the  but  sautc- 

or  Irving-pan,  put  in  the  potatoes,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Toss  them  over  the  fire  until  they  acquire  a  little  colour,  then  s< 

Time. — To  saute  the  potatoes,  from  4  to  5  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
2cl.  to  jd.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1585-— POTATO  STRAWS.     (Fr.— Pommes    Failles.) 

Ingredients. — 5  or  6  medium-sized  potatoes,  frying 

Method. — Peel  and  slice  the  potatoes  thinly,  cut  them  into  strips 
about  i£  inches  long,  then  wash  and  drain  ti.  and  dry 

on  a  cloth.     II  iy  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  fry  t  I  ill  a 

basket  until  crisp,  drain  free  from  fat,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  fry  the  straws,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  Suffi- 
cient for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1586.— POTATO   SOUFFLE.    (Fr.— Souffle  de  Pommes 
de  Terre.) 

\ngredients. — i  lb.  of  mealy  potatoes,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  gill  of  cream, 

t  and  pepper,  nutmeg. 

Method. — As  soon  as  the  potatoes  are  co'^-d.  d  Iry  them 

carefufty,  and  rub  them  through  a  fr  icvc.     Put  them  into  a 


862  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

basin,  and  add  salt,  pepper,  and  a  grating  of  nutmeg  to  season.  Melt 
the  butter,  and  stir  in,  one  by  one,  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  the  cream, 
lastly  add  the  whites  of  eggs,  previously  whisked  to  a  stiff  froth.  Put 
the  mixture  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  or  into  small  buttered  china  or 
paper  souffle  cases.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  20  minutes.  Small 
cases  will  take  rather  less  time. 

Time. — Fi^i  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

1587.— POTATO  RICE.      (Fr.—  Pommes  de  Terre  au 

Riz.) 

Ingredients. — Potatoes,  salt  and  butter. 

Method. — Choose  white  potatoes,  boil  them  until  tender,  and  mash 
them.  Press  them  through  a  large  colander  on  to  a  hot  dish  before  a 
fire,  shaking  the  colander  lightly  every  other  minute  to  cause  the  pota- 
toes to  fall  off  in  short  grains  like  rice;  serve  very  hot. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  id.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
at  any  time. 

1588.— POTATO  SNOW.     (Fr.— Pommes  de  Terre  au 
Neige.) 

Ingredients. — Potatoes,  salt  and  water. 

Method. — Choose  white  potatoes,  as  free  from  spots  as  possible,  boil 
them  in  their  skins  in  salt  and  water  until  perfectly  tender,  drain  and 
dry  them  thoroughly  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  peel  them.  Put  a  hot 
dish  before  the  fire,  rub  the  potatoes  through  a  coarse  sieve  on  to  this 
dish;  do  not  touch  them  afterwards,  or  the  flakes  will  fall;  serve  as  hot 
as  possible. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  id.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
at  any  time. 

1589.— POTATO  VERMICELLI. 

Ingredients. — Potatoes,  salt  and  water. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  potatoes  as  in  either  of  the  two 
preceding  recipes,  then  press  them  through  a  metal  potato  masher  into 
a  hot  vegetable  dish. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  id.  per  Ib.  Seasonable 
at  any  time. 

1590.— POTATOES,  TO  BOIL  NEW.  (Fr.— Pommes  de 
Terre.) 

Ingredients. — Potatoes  ;  to  each  £  gallon  of  water  allow  i  heaped 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  a  few  sprigs  of  mint. 


RECIPES    FOR    <  \BLE 


Method.     Have  the  p< 

pood  when  they  1  nd. 

them  .d    put    i 

boilr 

m  with  a  ,  pour  a\ 

Allow    them    to  stand    by    the    side    of    the    t 
sauce  tally  removed,   an  •  hey  are 

them   in   a  In 

.ut.      If  they  arc  ol 

chopp- 

Time  •.  an  ho;:  Average  Cc 

':.   per  Ib.     Sufficient,  3  Ib.  for  5  or  '  .     Seasonable  in 

ind  Juiir  ,'ril. 

. 
• 


'•  ept      Thi-v- 

I59I._POTATOES,    TO   STEAM. 

Ingredie 
Method. 

trcnn    • 

'igh  the  ; 
quickly. 

Time.     From  Average  Cost. 

at   any   time. 

1592.— PUMPKIN,  FRIED. 

See 

I593-— PUMPKIN,  MASHED. 
1 594.- PUMPKIN  PIE. 

Ingredient 

•  id.    i   j".: 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

?eel  and  slice  the  pumpkin,  remove  the  seeds,  boil  it  in 

3d  water  until  tender,  and  .pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve. 

'.d  the  eggs,  sweeten  to  taste,  put  in  the  lemon-rind,  cinna- 

"nger,  and  stir  in  gradually  sufficient  milk  to  reduce  the 

I   to  that  of  thick  batter.     Turn  the  mixture  into  a  piedish 

*  short  crust  paste,  cover   and   bake  in  a  moderately  hot 

the  mixt  ircj.o  to  45  minutes.     Serve  hot. 

paper  souffj  bake  the  pie,  from  40  to  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  un- 
cases will  tffficient  for  6  or  7  persons.     Seasonable  in  summer. 
Time.—  1 

tha^^uM£KIN  AND   APPLE  PIE. 

;    IngredieW—  Pumpkin,  apples,  sugar,  ground  allspice,  paste. 

Method.—  Remove  the  rind,  seeds  and  puffy  centre  part  of  the  pump- 
kin, and  slice  the  rest  thinly.  Fill  a  piedish  with  alternate  layers  of 
applejand  pumpkin,  sprinkling  each  layer  with  sugar  and  a  pinch  of 
allspice.  Add  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  cover  with  paste,  and 
bakefn  a  moderately-hot  oven  from  45  to  60  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Tim,—  To  bake,  from  45  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  uncertain. 
ti  for  6  or  7  persons.  _  Seasonable  in  summer. 


i59e-SALSIFY,    BOILED.        (Fr.—  Salsifis   bouillis, 
Sauce    Blanche.) 

puts.—  Salsify:  to  each  £  gallon  of  water  allow  i  heaped  table- 

qr,  of  salt,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon-juice. 

3  3d.—  Scrape  the  roots  gently,  so  as  to  strip  them  only  of  their 

U'peel;  cut  them  into  pieces  about  4  inches  long,  and,  as  they  are 

,  ;.throw  them  into  water  mixed  with  a  little  lemon-juice,  to  prevent 

,-iscolouring.     Put  them  into  boiling  water  with  salt,  butter  and 

icjuice  in  the  above  proportion,  and  let  them  boil  rapidly  until 

.er;  try  them  with  a  fork,  and,  when  it  penetrates  easily,  the  roots 

Drain  the  salsify,  and  serve  with  good  white  sauce. 
ame.—  From  30  to  40  minutes.     Seasonable  from  December  to  March. 

.Vofc.—Salsifv  may  also  be  cooked  according  to  any  of  the  recipes  given 
ior  dressing  celery. 


Er'chT/nivS  nrTJ"^16  g?^'S  J^  "  *  plailt  indiSen™*  to  England,  belonging  to  the 
chicory  or  lettuce.      It  is  less  often  eaten  in  England  than  on  the  Continent  and 

" 


I597-—  SCALLOPED  OYSTER  PLANT.    (Fr.—  Salsifis.) 

Ingredients.—  1  1  Ib.  of  stewed  oyster  plant  (salsify),  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
|  a  gill  of  milk,  salt  to  taste,  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper. 

tfetltfd.—  When  the  -oyster  plant  is  boiled  tender,  rub  it  through  a 
;'  ve;.add  part  of  the  butter  and  all  the  other  ingredients,  mix  well, 
in  a  baking-dish,  cover  the  top  with  grated  breadcrumbs  and  the 
of  the  butter,    Bake  it  a  delicate  brown,  and  serve  hot, 


RI- 

Tim:. 
Seawnab'r  ter. 

1598. -SUCCOTASH. 

Ing.edicn  .-;,  12  ea: 

.-.ad  pepjx 
Method. 

tor  about 
in  the  but 

Time.— 4^   minutes.     Average  Cost,    is.  jil.     Sufficient 
Seasonal  -r. 

I599-— SWEET  POTATOES,  TO  COOK,  DRIED. 

Method.     1  ••     :  boi  r  over  the  potatoes  the  nig). 

:.      T!K-  r. 


Th«y  iL:: 

th.-ir  l-ives  and  bulk  of  i.  ,,:!.!,.  i!;  a?  .    !.•:;:..!•.--•       r'    •    •  :   ,  ^  C,-    ..I      :     :t:.c      t-m-: 

rasa-ou-    st    :«••;>    I ..    v.  •.:.  ',    '•  ••    !-i'--->     •••     u"  .,.-•:.;•.        ;-.;.       ,    .  •:        «C  MOM!  ..-,..'...  i'v. 

^^^^^^•9r  prcin  -  roH-n  in  6clds  are — tbe  e-uly  ki 

t  :.uely  eaten  in  Bt. 
a  terved  at  t 

1600.     SWEET  POTATOES,  ROAST. 

Method. 

skin, 

1601.— SWEET  POTATO  FRITTERS. 

Ingredients.     \   a 

g-fat, 

Method. 

-«Ut.     Fd  .  o  into 

small 

Tim*  --s.     Average  Cost, 

Sulncie  Seasonable 

1 602. -SAVOY,  TO  DRESS. 

:  Cabbage,  on  pa 

1603.     SEA-KALE,  BOILED.  :houx  Marins.) 

Ingredler 


W  \vattr 
1  the  ^HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

to  f#eii  wash  the  kale,  cut  away  any  worm  eaten  pieces,  and 
hortil  bunches.    Put  it  into  boiling  water,  salted  in  the  above 
tond  let  it  boil  quickly  until  tender.     Take  it  out,  drain, 
ches,  and  serve  with  plain  melted  butter  or  white  sauce, 
may  be  poured  over  the  kale.     Sea-kale  may  also  be 
cind  s-tewed  in  good  brown  gravy;  it  will  then  take  about 
|  an  h6ur  altogether. 

Time. — 25  minutes.  When  liked  very  thoroughly  done,  allow  an 
extra  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  in  full  season,  9d.  per  basket.  Sufficient, 
12  heads  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to  June. 

SEA-KALE  (Fr.  chou  marins).— This  plant  belongs  to  the  asparagus  tribe,  and  grows  on  sea  shores 
especially  in  the  west  of  England,  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Dublin.  Although  it  is  now  in  very 
general  use,  it  did  not  come  into  repute  till  1794.  It  is  easily  cultivated,  and  is  esteemed  as  one  of 
the  most  valuable  esculents  indigenous  to  Britain.  As  a  vegetable,  it  is  stimulating  to  the  appetite, 
easily  digestible,  and  nutritious.  It  is  so  light  that  the  most  delicate  organizations  may  readily  eat 
/»' t.  The  flowers  form  a  favourite  resort  for  bees,  as  their  petals  contain  a  great  amount  of  saccharine 
flatter. 


604.— SORREL,  PUREE  OF.     (Fr.— Puree  d'Oiselle.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  sorrel,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
either  gravy  or  cream,  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pick  the  sorrel,  remove  the  stalks,  then  wash  it  well, 
changing  the  water  frequently.  Put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  as  much 
water  as  will  barely  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  sprinkle  with  salt, 
and  cook  gently  for  about  20  minutes,  turning  it  over,  and  pressing  it 
down  repeatedly  with  a  spoon,  in  order  to  equalize  the  cooking.  Drain 
well,  fub  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  the  puree  into  a  stewpan,  add  the 
butter,  crea,..-!  or  gravy,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  for  8  or  10  minutes,  dredging  in  gradually  a  little  flour 
until  the  puree  acquires  the  .desired  consistence,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable,  in  best  condition  from  May  to  October. 

1605.— SPANISH  SALAD.      (Fr,— Salade  Espagnole.) 

Method. — Peel  a  large  Spanish  onion-,  cut  it  into  very  thin  slices; 

with  this  mix  a  finely-sliced  cucumber  and  6  firm  but  ripe  tomatoes, 

-u  jj^lsp^cui^Jntf>_s1irps.  ^-'Sftfl.sfm  with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  and 

spi  inkle    some  liliely-grated    Parmesan    cheese    between    each   layer. 

Garnish  with  stoned  Spanish  olives,  and  serve. 

Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1606.— SPINACH,  BOILED.     (Fr.— Puree  d'Epinards.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ib.  of  spinach,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method — Pick  off  the  stalks,  and  wash  the  spinach  in  cold  water 
until'  free  from  grit.  Then  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  about  a  level 
tablespoonful  of  saitv^md  just  sufficient  water  to  cpver  the  bottom 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  867 

of  the  pan.     Boil  uncovered  from  1  5  to  j;  minutes,  occasionally  pressing 

and  turning  it  over  with  a  wooden  spoon.      \  ne,  rub 

h  a  tine  sieve;  put  it  into  a  stew  pan  with  the  butter,  season 

•'per,  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  and  stir  over  the  tire  for  5  or  6 

minutes.     Serve  on  a  hot  dish  garnished  with  croutons  of  fried  or 

read,  or  fleurons  of  puff-paste. 

Time.  —  From  20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  from  Jcl.  per  ll>.     Suffi- 
cient 5  persons.     Seasonable.  from  M 

Jul;  spinach  from  November  to 


-A  genus  of  plant  belonging  to  the  natural  order  CktnopodtacMt, 
••ill  of  a  succulent  K  ~  oograpbical  distribution 

tropical  and  temperate  region*,  where  it  grow*  as  a  weed  ia  v, 
ibbuk,  and  in  marshes  by  the  sea  shore.     In  the  tropics  the  gem: 
-  amtsed  as  pot-herbs,  and  some  of  them  are  emetic  and  vtnnifaft  U  their  medi 
Spinach  has  been  cultivated  in  oar  gardens  since  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century,    f 

1607.—  SPINACH    WITH    BROWN    GRAVY. 

(Fr.  —  Epinards  au  Jus 

iifll  of  flour, 
Method.      1'r   ;   ue  and  cook 

it  it   into  a 
pepper,  sprinkle  in  the  tl« 

• 
pflHKm  croutons  of  fried  or  toasted  bread,  or  served  o: 

outons  of  fried  bread,  and  K 
.M^Hdesi^ns  of  puff-paste,  or  white  of 

Time.     Kroja  20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  Suffl- 

-.     Seasonable  to  July. 

1608.  SPINACH  WITH  CREAM.    (Fr.—  Epinards  a  la 

Creme.) 

}>J  differs  from  the  preceding  one,   1  au  Jus,  only  , 

oonfuls  of  cream  s  the  brown  gravy. 

-These  comprise  the  strawberry  spinach,  whirh,  under  that  name,  was 
s;  the  Good  King  Harry,  the  < 
are  the  varieties  commonly  used.     The  Orach  i$  a 

^•^^^^^•Mvaace,  and  is  a  native  of  Tartary.  introduced  in  1548.    The  common  sfx: 

than  any  of  the  Brasska  tribe. 

1609.  -SPINACH  WITH  POACHED  EGGS. 

(Fr.  —  Epinards  aux  Oeufs  Poches 

Ingredients.—  2  01  -,  6  poached  eggs,  fleurons 

croutons  of  fried  br< 
Method.  —  Prepare   the  puree  according   to  .\\\ 


868  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

of  the  preceding  three  recipes.  Poach  the  eggs  in  as  plump  a  form  as 
possible,  and  trim  them  to  a  nice  round  shape.  Serve  the  spinach 
on  a  hot  dish,  place  the  eggs  on  the  top,  and  garnish  the  base  with  the 
fleurons  or  croutons. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  July. 

16  io.— SQUASH,  TO  DRESS. 

See  American  Cookery. 

161 1.— TOMATOES,     BAKED.          (Fr.— Tomates    au 
Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — 8  to  10  tomatoes,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Take  the  stalks  off  the  tomatoes,  cut  them  in  halves, 
and  put  them  into  a  deep  baking-dish  with  a  seasoning  of  pepper 
and  salt  and  butter  in  the  above  proportion.  Cover  the  whole 
with  breadcrumbs;  drop  over  these  a  little  clarified  butter,  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  from  20  minutes  to  -£  an  hour,  and  serve  very  hot.  This 
vegetable,  dressed  as  above,  is  an  exceedingly  nice  accompaniment 
to  all  kinds  of  roast  meats.  The  tomatoes,  instead  of  being  cut  in  half, 
may  be  baked  whole,  but  they  will  take  rather  longer  time  to  cook. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable 
in  August,  September  and  October,  but  may  be  obtained  all  the 
year  round. 

THE  TOMATO,  OR  LOVE  APPLE.— This  vegetable  is  a  native  of  Mexico  and  South  America,  but  is 
also  found  in  the  East  Indies,  where  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  introduced  by  the  Spaniards.  In 
this  country  it  is  much  more  cultivated  than  it  formerly  was,  and  the  more  the  community  becomes 
acquainted  with  the  many  agreeable  forms  in  which  the  fruit  can  be  prepared,  the  more  widely  will 
its  cultivation  be  extended.  For  ketchup,  soups,  and  sauces,  it  is  equally  applicable,  and  the  unripe 
fruit  makes  one  of  the  best  pickles.  In  Italy  and  Provence  tomatoes  are  cut  in  halves,  and  dried  in 
the  sun ;  they  are  then  very  slightly  sprinkled  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  packed  securely  for  winter 
use  in  soups  and  stsws. 

1612.— TOMATOES,  DEVILLED.    (£>.— Tomates  a  la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — 5  or  6  firm  tomatoes,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  2 
hard-boiled  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  made 
mustard,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  i  saltspoonful  of  sugar,  a  good  pinch 
of  cayenne,  2  raw  eggs,  butter  for  frying. 

Method. — Slice  the  tomatoes,  place  them  in  a  saute-pan  containing 
a  little  hot  butter,  and  let  them  cook  very  slowly  for  a  few  minutes. 
Mix  the  hard-boiled  yolks  and  2  ozs.  of  butter  together,  stir  in  the 
vinegar,  add  the  mustard,  salt,  sugar  and  cayenne,  and  turn  the  whole 
into  a  small  stewpan.  When  thoroughly  hot,  beat  and  add  the  eggs, 
and  stir  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Place  the  tomatoes  on  a  hot  dish, 
pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 


RECIl'KS    FOR    COOKING    YB.KTABLES          869 

Time. — About  ^  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.   }d.  to  is.  od.     Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1613.— TOMATOES,  SCALLOPED.    (Fr.— Tomates   en 
Coquille.) 

Ingredients. — V  a  pint  of  tomato  pulp,  2  or  3  tables poonfu Is  of  bread- 
crumbs, |  an  02.  of  butter,  |  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion, 

•  nd  pepper,  sugar,  nutmeg,  browned  breadcrumbs,  butter. 
Method.     Obtain  the  pulp  by  passing  tomatoes  through  a  : 

on;  \edpulp.     Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  until 

lightly-browned,  and  add  half  the  tomato  pulp  and  white  breadcrumbs 
gradually  until  the  mixture  has  the  consistency  of  very  thick  cr« 
Add  a  pinch  each  of  sugar  and  nutmeg,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  pour  the  mixture  in»o  will-buttered  scallop  shells.     Cover 
lightly  with  browned  breadcrumbs,  add  2  or  3  small  pieces  of  but 

.1  moderately-hot  oven  from  10  to  15  minutes,  then  si  i 
Time. — To  bake  the  scallops,  from  10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost, 
6d.  t<    ;<!..  \\ :  .  a  j: --served  pulp  is  used.     Sufficient  for  6  or  8  sh 
Seasonable  at  any  t 

1614.     TOMATO   SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  de  Tomates.) 

•  I.  dram  he  tomatoes,  and,  when  quite  cold,  slur  thnn 

•r  thinly.      A  ikle  them  lightly 

wit:  1  pepper,  and  ^lightly  with  salad-oil  and  vinegar, 

after  pr  lie  tomatoes,  as  directed  above,  cut  them  across 

m  halves,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  ccl 
drops  of  tarragon  vinegar.     Put  them  aside  for  J  an  hour,  then  sen 

1615.— TOMATOES  AND   SPINACH.       (Fr.   -Tomates 
aux  Epinards.) 

Ingredients. — Tomatoes,  spinach  puree,  croutes  of  fried  bread,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method.     Kvmove  some  of  the  pulp  and  juice  from  the  torn,. 
till   :  ies  with   spinach  pun  seasoned  with  salt  . 

>cr.  ami  bake  in  a  moderately-hot  oven  until  the  tomatoes  are  soft. 

rr»u  tes. 
Time. — To  bake   the   tomatoes,   about    id  minutes.     A?erage   Cost. 

•  2jd.  each.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1616.— TOMATOES,    STEWED.        (Fr.— Tomates    au 

Jus.) 

Ingredients.  — S  tomatoes,  about  $  a  pint  of  good  gravy,  thickening  of 
butter  and  flour,  •  md  salt  to  taste. 


870  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Take  out  the  stalks  of  the  tomatoes,  put  them  into  a  wide 
stewpan,  pour  over  them  the  above  proportion  of  good  brown  gravy, 
and  stew  gently  until  they  are  tender,  OCCASIONALLY  carefully  turning 
them,  that  they  may  be  equally  done.  Thicken  the  gravy  with  a 
little  butter  and  flour  worked  together  on  a  plate,  let  it  boil  for  10  minutes 
after  the  thickening  is  added,  then  serve. 

Time. — From  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  46..  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  4  psrsons.  Seasonable,  all  the  year. 

ANALYSIS  OF  THE  TOMATO. — The  fruit  of  the  love-apple  is  the  only  part  used  as  an  esculent,  and  it 
has  been  found  to  contain  a  particular  acid,  a  volatile  oil,  a  brown  very  fragrant  extract  of  resinous 
matter,  a  vegeto-mineral  matter,  mucho-saccharine,  some  salts  and,  in  al!  probability,  an  alkaloid. 
The  whole  plant  has  a  disagreeable  odour,  and  its  juice,  subjected  to  the  action  of  the  fire,  emits  a 
vapour  so  powerful  as  to  cause  vertigo. 

1617.— TOMATOES,  STUFFED.   (Fr.— Tomates  Farcies 
au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — 6  medium-sized  tomatoes,  6  croutons  of  fried  or  toasted 
bread,  i  heaped  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  lean  cooked  ham, 
\  a  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  i  small  teaspoonful  of  grated  cheese 
preferably  Parmesan,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  mushrooms, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  very  small  onion  finely- 
chopped,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  brown  sauce  (about), 
browned  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  of  the  tomatoes,  and  scoop  out  a  little 
of  the  pulp.  Mix  together  all  the  above  ingredients,  except  the  brown 
sauce  and  browned  breadcrumbs,  in  a  small  stewpan  over  the  fire,  adding 
gradually  sufficient  brown  sauce  to  slightly  moisten  the  whole.  Season 
to  taste,  fill  the  tomatoes  with  the  preparation,  sprinkle  on  the  top 
of  each  a  few  browned  breadcrumbs,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  about  15  minutes.  Serve  on  the  croutes,  which  should  be  round, 
and  slightly  larger  than  the  tomatoes. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  %  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

161 8.— TOMATOES,  STUFFED,  WITH  MUSHROOMS. 
(Fr. — Tomates  Farcies  aux  Champignons.) 

Ingredients. — 6  medium-sized  tomatoes,  2  tablespoonfuls  "*  fin  civ- 
chopped  mushrooms,  i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  f  ol  a'teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  very  small  onion  finely-chopped,  6  croutons 
of  fried  or  toasted  bread,  browned  breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  of  the  tomatoes,  and  scoop  out  a  little 
of  the  pulp.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  add  to  it  all  the  in- 
gredients except  the  browned  breadcrumbs,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until 
thoroughly  mixed.  Fill  the  tomatoes  with  the  preparation,  sprinkle 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  871 

on  a  few  browned  breadcrumbs,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  10  or  15 
minutes,  and  serve  on  the  croutons. 

Time. — Altogether,    30   minutes.     Average   Cost,    is.   6d.    to    is.   oxl. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1619.— TRUFFLES.      (Fr.— Truffes  au  Natural.) 

Ingredients.— Truffles,  but 

Method.— Select   some  fine   truffles,  and    wa-h   and  brush    them  in 
several  waters,  until  not  a  particle  of  sand  or  pi  P  each 

red   paper,  and    bake  in   a   hot   oven  for  quite  i  hour; 
M  paper,  wipe  the  truffles,  and  s- 

Time. — To  bake  the  truffles,  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6s.  to  IDS.  pi-r  Ib. 
Seasonable  fn»m  November  t 

THI  COMMON  Tuurri.*  (Fr.  Iruffe,}— This  u  the  Tub*  citmnwm  of  science,  and  belong*  to  that 

from  other  vegetable*,  n 


tbdr  forms,  hot  by  their  chemical  composite*.     Upon  analysis,  they  are  found  not  only  to  oootain 

,  such  as  carbon,  oxygen,  and  hydrogen,  but  likewise 
a  large  proportion  of  nitrogen,  from  wh: 


:    •     .    .  .;••!..       -:•.-..•••:••...• 


It  was  long  ago  observed  by  Dr.  Darwin  that  all  the  mushrooms  cooked  at  our  table*,  as  well 

used  for  ketchup,  possessed  an  animal  flavour  ;  and  soup  cm .  -.rooms  only  has  sometimes 

betHM It0<     •  f.ii:    -...  .t       It:      •••...••  ,t  •.•::•:••••        •  -]u.i!!v  <...•        ",-r;!.,    :- 

notwithstanding  all  the  efforts  of  art  ,  •  m  impossible 

•ur--.     Truffles  grow  at  a  considerable  depth  und«  •  vcr  ap- 

pearing on  the  surface.     Thev  are  found  in  many  parts  of  1 

lavour.    There  are  thre*  varieties  of  the  speck*,  the  bl  > 

•  v  rare,  and  their  us*  is  restarted.     Tt 
•onom.    When  the  peasantry  go  to  t 

I  truffle*  are 

•  ;:.'•!:.'::;:•••.•       '.  •    .•       ..• 


icrfection.  they  st 
•  v  conserving  process.     Truffle « 
iigest  th'-rn  with  div 

t>ut  they  should  always  be  eaten  sparingly.    Th. 
litures.     In  short,  i  professor  has  said  :  "  Meats  with  truffles  are  the  most 
tpulence  can  offer  to  the  epicure."     The  truffle  grows  in  clusters,  some 
the  soil,  and  U  of  an  irregular  globular  form.    Those  which  grow  wild  in 

:    i   !          -      .  :'•.••:       :    •   '-         \      •  ;     •      •     .         :        ::••.',  ":.-!.   :'••• 

s  have  been  /rained  to  discriminate  their  srr  • 

ad  of  them,  and  frequently  lead  to  their  being  found,  from  their 


1620.— TRUFFLES    SERVED     ON     A     SERVIETTE. 

(Fr.— Truffes  a  la  Serviette.) 

Ingredients. — Large  truffles,  equal  quantities  of  white  wine  and  veal 
or  chicken  stock,  slices  of  ham  or  bacon,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 

thyme,   l> 

Method.     1  i-sli  truces  must  be  well  washed  and  scrubbed  t- 

.   carefully  perl-  «I.     I  ine  a 
;th   slices   of   ham   or  bacon,    put   in    the   truffles   and   1 

its    of    wine   and   stock,    lav    a 

hours,  accordn  <.  and  add  more  \\m»    and  stock 


872         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

as  that  in  the  stewpan  becomes  reduced.     When  ready,  drain  and  dry 
thoroughly,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible  in  a  folded  serviette. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  6s.  to  ios.  per  Ib. 
Allow  i  to  each  person.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

Note.— Preserved  truffles  may  be  enclosed  separately  in  buttered  paper, 
heated  in  the  oven,  and  after  being  well  dried  on  a  cloth,  served  in  a  folded 
serviette. 

1621.— TRUFFLES,  ITALIAN  METHOD  OF  DRESSING. 

(Fr.— Truffes  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — 10  truffles,  £  of  a  pint  of  salad-oil,  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste,  i  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley,  a  very  little  finely  minced 
garlic  or  shallot,  2  blades  of  pounded  mace,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon- 
juice. 

Method. — After  cleansing  and  brushing  the  truffles,  cut  them  into 
thin  slices,  and  put  them  into  a  baking-dish,  with  a  seasoning  of  oil, 
pepper,  salt,  parsley,  garlic,  and  mace  in  the  above  proportion.  Bake 
them  for  nearly  i  hour,  and  just  before  serving  add  the  lemon-juice. 
Send  the  truffles  to  table  very  hot. 

Time. — Nearly  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6s.  to  ios.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  5  persons.  Seasonable,  fresh  truffles  from  November  to  March. 

WHERE  TRUFFLES  ARE  FOUND.— In  this  country,  the  common  truffle  is  found  on  the  downs  of  Hamp- 
shire, Wiltshire  and  Kent ;  and  they  abound  in  dry  light  soils,  acd  more  especially  in  oak  and  chestnut 
forests.  In  France  they  are  plentiful,  and  many  are  imported  from  the  south  of  that  country  and 
Italy,  where  they  are  much  larger  and  in  greater  perfection  ;  they  lose,  however,  much  of  their  flavour 
by  drying.  In  England  the  artificial  propagation  cf  truffles  has'  been  tried,  but  without  success. 

1622.— TRUFFLES  WITH  ITALIAN  SAUCE. 

(Fr.— Truffes  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — 10  fresh  truffles,  i  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley,  i 
minced  shallot,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  good  brown  gravy,  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon,  cayenne  to 
taste. 

Method. — Wash  the  truffles,  cut  them  into  slices  about  the  size  of  a 
penny  piece,  then  put  them  in  a  saute-pan,  with  the  parsley, 
shallot,  salt,  pepper,  and  i  oz.  of  butter.  Stir  them  over  the  fire,  that 
they  may  all  be  equally  done  (about  10  minutes  will  suffice),  then  add 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  good  gravy,  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon,  and  a  little 
cayenne.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  whole  is  on  the  point  of  boiling, 
then  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6s.  to  ios.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  March. 

USES  OF  THE  TRUFFLES. — Like  the  morel, truffles  are  seldom  eaten  alone.but  are  much  used  in  gravies, 
soups,  and  ragouts.  They  are  likewise  dried  for  the  winter  months,  and,  when  reduced  to  powder, 
form  a  useful  culinary  ingredient ;  they,  however,  have  many  virtues  attributed  to  them  which  they 
do  not  possess.  Their  wholesomeness  is  perhaps  questionable,  and  they  should  be  eaten  in  modera- 
tion. 


VEGETABLES. 


i.  S|.in,K  ii  Crftntes. 

55 


i  row  with  Sauce.         3.  Globe  Artichokes. 

FF* 


VEGETABLES, 


i.  Butter  Beans.         2.  Sweet  Corn.         3.  Flagolets. 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  873 

1623.— TRUFFLES    IN    CRUST.        (Fr.— Truffes    en 
Croutes,  or  en  Cassolettes.) 

Ingredients. — Truffles,  butter,  brown  sauce,   i   glass  of  Marsala,  or 
Madeira  wine,  stale  bread. 

Method. — Prepare  as  many  rounds  of  bread,  :  inch  thick,  a*  will  bo 

required;  they  should  be  free  fro.n  crust.     Fry  them  in  clarified  fat 

until  lightly-browned,  drain,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  out  a  hollow 

space  in  the  centre  of  each.   Slice  some  truffles,  allowing  i  small  one  for 

olctte.      Heat  them  in  a  little  butter,  and  add  a  glass  of  Marsala 

To  this  add  enough  brown  sauce  to  bind  the  truffles. 

When  thoroughly  hot  fill  the  cassolettes  with  them,  dish  up,  and  serve 

hot. 

Time.— From  35  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  for  a  dish  of 
olettes.     Sufficient  for  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1624.— TURNIPS,  BOILED.  (Fr.— Navets  au  Naturel.) 

Ingredients. — Turnips;  to  each  £  gallon  of  water  allow  i  heaped  table- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Method.— Pare  the  turnips,  and,  should  they  be  very  Urge,  d 
a   into  quarters;  they   are    small,   let    them   be    co< 

whole.     Put  them  into  a  saucepan  of  b<>  «  r,  salted  in  the  above 

proportion,  and  let  them  boil  gently  until  tender.  Try  them  wi: 
fork,  and,  when  done,  take  them  up  in  a  colander,  let  them  thoroughly 
drain,  and  serve.  Boiled  turnips  are  usually  sent  to  table  with  boiled 
mutton,  but  are  infinitely  nicer  when  mashed  than  served  whole; 
unless  nice  and  young,  they  are  scarcely  worth  the  trouble  of  dressing 
plainly  as  ab< 

Time. — Old  turnips,  J  to  i|  hours;  young  ones,  about  18  to  20  mi; 
Average  Cost,  one  dish,  3d.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

In-  «•»*).— ^Tbfovefetabte  to  the  BfM««M««tec4Ktenoe.  and  grow*  wild  iaEo^Uod. 

The  t 

v.:,:  ,M...  ,: -u.  h  t.  ed  .-.I!     I  •  Ivm  w!,rrr  ,t   i*  r.thn    MM   ,!  m  •  r   I  MM   •*      •    mt  fa      •]  - 

andstews     Tbev  do  not  thr*ve  in  a  hot  dfanate.  far  fa  India  taroipt.  and  many  more  of  oorganfan 
rwetable^lott  their  iraaraatheoixM  ...^jmritiv-iv  toefteh*       ih-  MM*  •••  fa  :..r :  •  t  v.,:,  t 

i*  con4d<red  too  coarv  foe  the  table,  altboofh  in  Soodaod  and  on  the  Cootioeot  quite  voong 
swedes  are  often  cooked  as  delicacies. 

1625.— TURNIPS    AU    GRATIN.        (Fr.— Navets    au 
Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — 6  or  8  medium-sized  young  turnips,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  178),  stock,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Peel  thinly  6  to  8  mediuu  >ung  turnips,  cut  them 

into  slices,  wash  and  drain  them.  /s.  of  butler  in  a  s 

when  hot  put  in  the  turnips,  and  stir  over  a  brisk  fire,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  moisten  with  a  little  stock,  cook  till  tender,  then  drain 


874         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

thoroughly.  Arrange  the  slices  or  the  puree  in  a  well-buttered  gratin 
or  pie-dish,  sauce  over  with  a  well-reduced  Bechamel  sauce,  sprinkle 
the  surface  with  fine  breadcrumbs,  and  add  a  few  tiny  bits  of  butter. 
Bake  in  a  sharp  oven  for  about  10  minutes,  to  brown  the  top. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  pd.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

THE  FRENCH  NAVET. — This  is  a  variety  of  the  turnip,  but,  instead  of  being  globular,  has  more  the 
shape  of  the  carrot.  Its  flavour  being  excellent,  it  is  much  esteemed  on  the  Continent  for  soups 
and  made-dishes.  Two  or  three  of  them  will  impart  as  much  flavour  as  a  dozen  of  the  common  turnips 
will.  Accordingly,  when  stewed  in  gravy,  they  are  greatly  relished.  The  flavour  is  found  in  the  rind 
which  is  not  cut  off,  but  scraped.  This  variety  was  once  grown  in  England,  but  now  it  is  rarely  found 
in  our  gardens,  though  highly  deserving  of  a  place  there.  It  is  of  a  yellowish-white  colour,  and  is 
sometimes  imported  in  the  London  market. 

1626.— TURNIPS,  GLAZED. 

See  Carrots,  Glazed,  Recipe  No.  1476. 

1627.— TURNIPS,  MASHED.     (Fr.— Puree  de  Navets.) 

Ingredients. — 10  or  12  large  turnips;  to  each  £  gallon  of  water  allow 
i  heaped  tablespoonful  of  salt,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  cayenne  or  white 
pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — Pare  the  turnips,  put  them  into  boiling  water,  salted 
in  the  above  proportion,  boil  them  until  tender,  then  drain  them  in  a 
colander,  and  squeeze  them  as  dry  as  possible  by  pressing  them  with 
the  back  of  a  large  plate.  When  quite  free  from  water,  rub  the  turnips 
with  a  wooden  spoon  through  a  sieve,  put  them  into  a  saucepan,  add 
the  butter,  white  pepper,  or  cayenne,  and,  if  necessary,  a  little  salt. 
Keep  stirring  them  over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  well  incorporated, 
and  the  turnips  are  thoroughly  hot,  then  dish  and  serve.  A  little 
cream  or  milk  added  after  the  turnips  are  pressed  through  the  sieve 
is  an  improvement  to  both  the  colour  and  flavour  of  this  vegetable. 

Time. — From  45  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

CABBAGE,  TURNIP-TOPS,  AND  GREENS. — All  the  cabbage  tribe,  which  comprises  coleworts,  brocoli, 
cauliflower,  sprouts  and  turnip-tops,  in  order  to  be  delicate,  should  be  dressed  young,  when  they 
have  a  rapid  growth  ;  but  if  they  have  stood  the  summer,  to  render  them  tender,  they  should  be 
allowed  to  have  a  touch  of  frost.  The  cabbage  contains  much  vegetable  albumen,  and  several  parts 
of  sulphur  and  nitrate  of  potash.  Cabbage  is  less  digestible  than  some  other  vegetables,  and  is  more 
suited  for  robust  and  active  persons  than  the  sedentary  or  delicate.  Cabbage  may  be  prepared  in  a 
variety  of  ways :  it  serves  as  a  garniture  to  several  recherche  dishes,  partridge  and  cabbage  for  ex- 
ample Bacon  arid  cabbage  is  a  very  favourite  dish,  but  requires  a  strong  digestion. 

1628.— TURNIP-GREENS,   BOILED. 

Ingredients. — To  each  £  gallon  of  water  allow  i  heaped  tablespoonful 
of  salt,  turnip-greens. 

Method. — Wash  the  greens  well  in  2  or  3  waters,  pick  off  all  the 
decayed  and  dead  leaves,  tie  them  in  small  bunches,  and  put  them  into 
plenty  of  boiling  water,  salted  in  the  above  proportion.  Keep  them 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  875 

boiling  quickly  with  the  saucepan  uncovered,  and,  when  tender,  pour 
them  into  a  colander;  let  them  drain,  arrange  them  in  a  vegetable-dish, 
remove  the  string  that  the  greens  were  tied  with,  and  serve. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  for  i  dish.     Seasonable 
in  March,  April  and  M 

1629.— VEGETABLES,  GARNISH  OF,  FOR  SOUPS, 
AND  ENTREES. 

Vegetables  for  garnishing  simple  soups  and  plain  entrees  may  be 
cut  into  dice  or  :  but  for  more  elaborate  dislu>  they  should 

cither  be  turned  into  small  balls  with  a  round  scoop  (see  Chapter  on 
Utensils),  or  cut  into  thin  slices  and  afterwards  stamped  out  1>\ 
means  of  a  fancy  cutter.  Carrot  and  turnip  should  either  be  boiled 
separ.itrly.  or  the  former  should  be  slightly  cooked  before  adding  tin- 
turnip,  which  requires  longer  cooking. 

1630.— VEGETABLE   MARROWS,    BOILED. 

(Fr. — Courge  bouillie,  Sauce  Blanche.) 

Ingredients. — 2  medium-si/-  ble  marrows,  toast,  J  of  a  pint 

•  it    whit.-  s.uice   (see  Sauo      '  3). 

Method. — Peel  the  marrows,  quarter  them,  and  remove  the  seeds. 
thorn  in  salt  and  water  from  15  to  20  minutes,  or  until  tender. 

di^h  « 'ii  I!M   toast,  pour  over  the  white  sauce,  and  s« 
Time. — 15   to  j«>  minutes.     Average  Cost,  fr<  Sufficient 

for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  in  July.  August  and  September. 

THF  VEGETABLE  MARROW.-  TM*  vegetable  is  now  extensively  u«ed,  and  beJooj;- 
btlaceae.     It  is  the  C.  011  Ja*ac*d*  of  science,  and.  like   the  melon,  gourd,  cucumber  and  *.;• 
is  widely  diHused  in  the  tropical  or  warmer  regions  of  the  globe.    Of  the  nature  of  this  family  we  have 
already  spoken  when  treating  of  the  cucumber. 

1631.— VEGETABLE    MARROW,    FRIED. 

(Fr.— Courge  Frite.) 

Ingredients. — i  or  2  medium-sized  vegetable  marrows,  egg  and  bread- 
cnnn!  fat.   salt   and   pepper. 

Method. — Peel  and  boil  the  marrows  in  salt  and  water  until  i 
then  drain  \\rll.  cut  them  into  quarters,  and  remove  the  seeds.     Coat 
each  piece  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely 
browned.     Drain,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  ser\ 

Time.— From  40  to  50  minutes,  altogether.     Average  Cost,  from  2d. 
each.     Sufficient  for  3  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  from  July  to  September. 

1632.— VEGETABLE  MARROW  FRITTERS. 

See   \  .  Fried,  Recip<  .the  mar- 

row may  be  c<-.tt  d  with  trvm-  batter  instead  of  egg  and  breadcrumbs. 


876  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

!  633.— VEGETABLE  MARROWS,  MASHED. 

(Fr. — Puree  de  Courge.) 

Ingredients. — 2  medium-sized  marrows,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful 
of  cream,  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  marrows  in  salt  and  water  until  tender,  and  rub 
them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
puree,  cream,  and  a  little  pepper,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  5  or  6  minutes, 
dredging  in  a  little  flour  until  the  puree  acquires  the  desired  con- 
sistence. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  2d.  each.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  in  July,  August  and  September. 

1634.— VEGETABLE  MARROW,  STUFFED. 

(Fr. — Courge  Farcie.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  marrow,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
chopped  raw  or  cooked  meat,  i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  i  egg,  £  a  pint  of 
brown  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  234),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  marrow,  cut  it  in  two  lengthwise,  and  remove 
the  seeds.  Boil  in  salt  and  water  for  about  10  minutes,  until  the  marrow 
is  half  cooked,  then  drain  well.  Mix  together  all  the  above  ingredients 
except  the  brown  sauce,  and  fill  the  cavities  of  the  marrow  with  the 
preparation.  Put  the  2  halves  together  in  their  original  form,  fasten 
securely  with  string,  baste  well  with  hot  fat,  dredge  lightly  with  flour, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  well  browned.  Or  brush  it  over 
with  egg,  and  coat  with  browned  breadcrumbs  before  baking.  Serve 
the  brown  sauce  separately. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  in  July,  August  and  September. 

1635. -VEGETABLES,   COLD,    TO    REHEAT. 

Vegetables  may  be  reheated  in  a  basin  placed  in  a  steamer  over  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  or  they  may  be  fried  in  a  little  hot  butter 
or  fat.  See  also  Cold  Potatoes  to  Warm,  Recipe  No.  1566. 

1636.— VEGETABLES,  CURRY  OF.  (Fr.—  L6gumes  en 
Kari.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  cauliflower,  £  a  pint  of  shelled  peas,  2  carrots, 
i  turnip,  2  or  3  raw  potatoes,  i  onion,  a  few  strips  of  celery,  i£  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  curry-powder, 


RECIPES    FOR    COOKING    VEGETABLES  877 

i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  or  2  tomatoes,  i  pint  of  stock,  6  ozs. 
of  boiled  rice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  cauliflower  into  small  sprays,  and  cut  the  carrot, 
turnip,  potatoes,  onion,  and  celery  into  dice.  In  boiling  the  vege- 
tables it  is  as  well  to  use  2  or  3  small  stewpans,  and  divide  them  accord- 
ing to  the  time  respectively  required.  Onion  and  celery  would  cook 
together,  also  the  carrot  and  turnip,  provided  the  former  were  given 
a  few  extra  minutes.  They  must  be  drained  from  the  water  when  about 
J  cooked,  otherwise  they  are  apt  to  break  and  spoil  the  appearance 
of  the  curry.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour  and  curry- 
powder,  fry  slowly  for  not  less  than  10  minutes,  then  put  in  the  sliced 
tomatoes  and  stock,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Simmer  gently  for  15 
minutes,  then  rub  through  a  tammy  or  fine  hair  sieve,  and  replace  in 
the  stewpan.  Season  to  taste,add  the  lemon-juice  and  cooked  vegetables, 
and  when  thoroughly  hot  serve  in  a  border  of  nicely-cooked  rice. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  i«.  6d.  to  25.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1637.— VEGETABLE    RAGOUT.         (Fr.— Ragout    de 
Legumes.) 

Ingredients. — Vegetables  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  i  pint  of  good 
brown  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  223). 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  vegetables  according  to  directions 
given  for  Curry  of  Vegetables.  When  cooked  and  well  drained, 
add  them  to  the  brown  sauce,  in  which  the  sliced  tomatoes  should 
already  have  been  simmered  for  about  10  minutes;  allow  them  to  re- 
main in  the  sauce  until  thoroughly  hot,  then  serve  garnished  with 
croutons  of  fried  bread,  or  small  shapes  of  mashed  potato,  see  Potatoes, 
Mashed  and  Baked  (Recipe  No.  1576). 

Time. — From  30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 

1638.— VEGETABLES,  TINNED. 

See  Peas,  Tinned,  to  Dress,  Recipe  No.  1559.  Follow  the  directions 
given,  but  omit  the  mint. 

1639.— VEGETABLES,  TO  BLANCH. 

See  General  Instructions  for  Cooking  Vegetables,  page  812. 

1640.— VEGETABLES,  TO  RENDER  CRISP. 

Lettuce,  parsley  and  other  stale  green  vegetables  may  be  made  less 
limp  by  pouring  over  them  a  considerable  quantity  of  boiling  wutrr. 
After  2  or  3  minutes'  immersion  they  should  be  well  washed  in  cold 
water,  and  served  immediately. 


878  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1641.— WHEAT  OR  MAIZE,  ITALIAN,  TO  BOIL. 

See  Maize  or  Indian  Corn,  Recipe  No.  1527. 

1642.— WHEAT,  INDIAN. 

See  Maize  or  Indian  Corn,  Recipe  No.  1527. 

!  643.— YAMS,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — Yams,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  yams,  bake  them  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven  until  soft,  and  serve  on  a  folded  napkin.  Butter,  salt  and  pepper 
are  the  usual  accompaniments. 

1644.— YAMS,  BOILED. 

Ingredients. — Yams,  salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  peel  the  yams,  and  let  them  remain  in  cold 
water  for  £  an  hour.  Cover  them  with  hot  water,  add  a  little  salt, 
boil  gently  until  tender,  then  drain  and  serve. 

Yams  may  also  be  steamed,  stewed,  fried,  mashed,  curried,  baked 
"  au  gratin  "  (see  Cauliflower  Baked  with  Cheese,  Recipe  No.  1477), 
made  into  rissoles  (see  Potato  Balls),  soup,  puree,  or  salad. 


PASTRY   MAKING,   TARTS, 
TARTLETS,  ICING,  ETC. 

CHAPTI  K    \\\I. 

Pastry. — Pastry  is  one  of  the  most  important  branches  of  culinary 
science,  and  possibly  one  of  the  oldest,  for  at  a  very  early  period  the 
Orientals  understood  the  art  of  utilizing  flour  lor  this  purpose.  In  its 
primitive  form  pastry  was  simpl  are  of  flour,  oil  and  honey  ; 

and  it  appears  to  have  been  confined  to  these  substances  for  cer.- 
e  southern  nations  of  the  European  continent.     A 
commencement  of  the  middle  ages  a  change  began  to  take  place  j  butter 

ntly  replaced  the  oil,  salt  was  used  as  a  flavouring  ingrc 
and  the  qualities  of  richness  and  lightness  which  are  imparted  by  eggs 
had  been  discovered.     The  next  step  was  to  use  paste  as  an  enclosure 
for  meat,  an -1  v  advance  was  made,  its  use  in  combination  with 

fruit,  cream,  etc..  f.>ll.»\\»-,l  as  a  matter  of  course.  The  art  advanced 
step  by  step  until  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  «  vie  dinner 

tables  of  the  intervening  period  having  afforded  considerable  scope  for 
the  display  of  constructive  and  d<  il.  Since  the  dinner  <k  la 

Russe  banished  almost  everything  of  an  edible  nature  from  the 
lent  in  this  direction  has  been  chiefly  expended  on  small  pa 
which,  if  less  imposing  in  structure  than  those  of  past  ages,  yet  afford 
?i  wide  field  for  v,  taste  and  manipulative  skill. 

The  recipes  on  the  following  pages  comprise  what  may  be  termed 
standard  pastes,  and  also  their  :\  Numerous  illustra- 

tions are  given  of  the  methods  in  which  the  respective  preparations 
may  be  utilized  for  pies.  \  .vithdirct-tions  forcompound- 

ing  the  mixtures  employed  for  filling  such  pastry. 

Pastry  Making. — The  quality  especially  to  be  desired  in  pastry  is  light- 

md  this  depends  almost  entirely  upon  the  amount  of  cold 
the  pastry  when  expansion  takes  place  in  the  oven.     The  best  pastry 
is  therefore  that  which  contains  test  quantity  of  the  coldest 

air  prior  to  baking.  The  repeated  foldings  and  rollings  to  which  putt 
paste  is  subjected  have  this  increase  of  air  in  view  ;  while  in  short 
crust  v.sionisni  idding  baking-powder,  or  other  acid, 

and  alkaline  substances,  which,  when  moistened,  combine  to  form 
a  constituent  identical  in  its  composition  and  effect  with  that  of  the 

••  7'.' 


88o         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

atmospheric  air  to  which  puff  paste  entirely  owes  its  lightness.  The 
difference  between  puff,  or  flaky  and  short  crust  is  that  in  the  former 
there  are  thin  layers  of  air  and  pastry  alternating,  and  in  the  latter  the 
air  fills  small  cavities  all  over  the  paste. 

Puff  Paste  usually  consists  of  flour  and  butter  in  equal  proportions, 
but  in  short  crust  the  proportions  of  fat  and  flour  vary,  and  may  be 
one-fourth  for  an  economical  paste,  or  three-fourths  for  a  rich  short 
crust.  For  ordinary  purposes  £  a  Ib.  of  butter  or  fat  to  each  Ib.  of  flour, 
will,  with  the  addition  of  a  good  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  make  a 
sufficiently  rich  crust.  Fine  starchy  flour  makes  the  lightest  pastry, 
the  larger  proportion  of  gluten  in  household  flour — although  exceed- 
ingly valuable  from  a  dietetic  point  of  view — tends  to  make  pastry, 
tough.  Flour  should  always  be  stored  in  a  cool,  perfectly  dry  place. 
By  sieving  it  before  use,  air  is  introduced,  and  if  there  are  any  lumps 
these  may  be  rubbed  out,  with  the  result  that  the  pastry  will  be 
lighter.  When  baking-powder  is  used  it  should  be  sieved  with  the 
flour,  as  this  ensures  its  even  distribution. 

The  amount  of  liquid  required  to  moisten  a  given  quantity  of  flour 
varies  within  narrow  limits,  but  it  may  be  approximately  stated  as 
being  \  to  that  of  the  flour.  As  a  rule,  i  Ib.  of  flour  will  need  about  -|- 
a  pint  of  water,  but  allowance  must  be  made  for  the  addition  of  eggs, 
or  when  the  fat  has  been  reduced  to  a  semi-liquid  condition  by  undue 
friction,  or  prolonged  contact  with  hot  hands.  The  consistency  of  the 
butter  determine*  the  amount  of  water  to  be  added  to  puff  paste  ;  when 
the  butter  is  soft  the  paste  must  be  equally  so,  otherwise  it  is  impossible 
to  keep  the  layers  separate,  and  thus  the  paste  is  deprived  of  some  of 
its  flakiness.  Rich  short  crust  is  lighter  and  more  crumbly  when  made 
very  stiff,  but  unless  plain  short  crust  is  sufficiently  moistened  it  is  hard 
and  tough.  Lemon-juice,  like  other  acids,  tends  to  make  pastry  lighter. 

Butter  and  Fat. — The  butter  used  for  making  pastry  should  be  good 
and  sweet,  for  nothing  imparts  its  own  unpleasant  flavour  to  every- 
thing it  comes  in  contact  with  more  decidedly  than  inferior  butter. 
Salt  butter  is  not  objectionable,  if  before  being  used  it  is  well  washed, 
and  afterwards  squeezed  in  a  floured  cloth  to  free  it  from  moisture. 
Rancid  butter  may  have  some  of  its  disagreeable  flavour  removed  by 
kneading  it  first  in  new  milk  and  afterwards  in  water.  For  ordinary 
pastry  clarified  fat  may  be  recommended  in  preference  to  lard  or  drip- 
ping, for  it  is  entirely  free  from  the  fatty  taste  which  characterizes  the 
purest  home-made  lard,  while  that  bought  ready  prepared  is  frequently 
adulterated,  and,  moreover,  has  occasionally  a  strong,  unpleasant  taste. 
The  objectionable  characteristic  flavour  of  dripping  may  be  in  some 
measure  removed  by  creaming  it,  that  is  beating  it  with  a  knife  on  a 
plate,  and  raising  it  well  with  every  movement  of  the  hand,  so  as  to 
subject  every  part  to  the  purifying  influence  of  the  atmosphere. 

Manipulation. — The  fat  should  be  lightly,  but  very  thoroughly,  rubbed 
in  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers,  never  with  the  palms  of  the  hands.  The 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  881 

water  should  be  added  gradually,  but  quickly,  to  prevent  hard  lumps 
bein^.-  formed,  and  to  keep  the  consistence  of  the  whole  mass  uniform. 
A  knife  should  always  be  used  for  mixing,  it  being  so  much  cooler  than 
the  hand.  Some  little  practice  is  necessary  to  acquire  the  light,  firm, 
even  pressure  and  dexterous  movements  upon  which  success  so  largely 
depends.  Paste  should  never  be  rolled  backwards  and  forwards,  but 
in  short  forward  rolls,  lifting  the  rolling-pin  between  the  rolls.  Puff 
paste  should  never  be  rolled  off  the  edges,  as  this  may  force  out  some 
of  the  air  ;  it  is  better  to  thin  the  edges  by  a  little  pressure,  or  an  inward 
roll. 

Puff  Paste  is  allowed  to  stand  between  the  turns  in  order  that  the 
butter  may  harden,  and  thus  keep  the  layers  of  paste  and  butter  separate. 
Paste  to  which  baking-powder  has  been  added  should  be  put  into  the 
v  as  possible,  otherwise  some  of  the  effect  of  the  baking- 
powder  is  wasted,  its  action  beginning  immediately  the  paste  is  mois- 
tened. 

Baking.— All  kinds  of  pastry  should  be  baked  in  a  moderately  hot 
o\  en.  for  a  high  temperature  is  necessary  to  expand  the  air  or  gas,  and 
.ake  the  pastry  light,  and  also  to  burst  the  grains  of  the  flour, 
thereby  enabling  these  to  absorb  the  fat  immediately  it  melts.     Unless 
the  heat  is  sufficiently  great  to  act  upon  the  flour  in  tl,  r.  the 

melted  fat  runs  out  and  leaves  the  paste  less  rich,  and  also,  probably, 
both  heavy  and  tough.  An  oven  with  a  good  bottom  heat  is  desirable 
for  baking  tarts  and  tartlets  ;  when  heated  from  above  it  is  advisable 
to  bake,  or  partially  bake,  the  tarts  before  filling  them. 

Icing.     Very  pretty  results  can  be  obtained  by  the   use  of    I 
tubes  or  cones,  which  may  be  purchased  at  any  ironmonger's, 
an  ordinary  conical  sugar  bag  of  paper,  place  an  Icing  tube  at   the 
bottom,  and  fill  the  bag  with  Icing  sugar.     Then  tear  away  the  paper 
covering  the  point  of  the  tube  and  squeeze  the  sugar  through. 


Paste,  Crust,  etc. 

i 

1645.— BATTER  FOR  FRYING. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  flour,  |  an  oz.  of  butter  (melted),  I  tablespoon- 
ful  of  cream,  i  yolk  of  egg,  2  whites  of  eggs,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  i  of  a 
pint  of  warm  water  (about). 

Method.  Sieve  the  flour  into  a  basin,  add  the  salt,  yolk  of  egg, 
butU-r  and  .  id  stir  until  smooth,  addin  :cr  gradually. 

Beat  well,  put  aside  for  at  least  \  an  hour,  then  add  the  whites  of  eggs, 
.:ily -whipped,  and  use  as  reqin 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  $d.  to  6d. 


882  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT1 

1646.— BATTER  FOR  PANCAKES. 

See  Yorkshire  Pudding,  Recipe  No.   1930. 

1647.— BATTER    FOR    FRYING.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  level  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad 
oil,  or  oiled  butter,  2  stiffly -whisked  whites  of  eggs,  a  good  pinch  of 
salt,  \  of  a  pint  of  warm  water  (about). 

Method. — Sieve  the  flour  into  a  basin,  add  the  salt  and  salad  oil,  stir 
gently,  adding  the  water  gradually  until  the  batter  is  sufficiently 
liquid  to  offer  little  resistance  to  the  spoon,  then  beat  well  for  10  minutes. 
Put  aside  for  about  %  an  hour,  add  warm  water  until  the  batter  has 
the  consistency  of  good  single  cream,  then  stir  in  the  stiffly-whisked 
whites  of  eggs,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  3^d.  to  46.. 

1648.— BRIOCHE  PASTE.     (Fr.—  Pate  de  Brioche.) 

Ingredients.— i  Ib.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  -|-  an  oz.  of  yeast,  2  large 
or  3  small  eggs,  £  of  a.  gill  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  yeast  with  a  little  tepid  water,  stir  in  sufficient 
flour  to  form  a  stiff  batter,  and  let  it  stand  for  i  hour  in  a  warm  place. 
Put  the  remainder  of  the  flour  into  a  basin,  add  a  good  pinch  of  salt, 
and  the  beaten  egg.  Warm  the  milk,  melt  the  butter,  add  gradually 
to  the  yeast,  etc.,  then  mix  together  the  contents  of  the  2  basins,  and 
knead  well  for  at  least  15  minutes.  Cover,  let  it  remain  in  a  moder- 
ately cool  place  for  2  or  3  hours,  then  shape  or  mould  as  desired,  and 
bake  in  a  brisk  oven. 

Time. — From  2  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  yd.  or  rod. 

1649.— BUTTER  CRUST.    (For  Boiled  Puddings.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  \  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — With  a  knife  mix  the  flour  to  a  smooth  paste,  adding  the 
water  gradually.  Roll  out  thinly,  place  the  butter  over  it  in  small 
pieces,  dredge  lightly  with  flour,  and  fold  the  paste  over.  Roll  out 
again,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  or  ;d.  Sufficient  for 
\\  Ibs.  of  paste. 

1650.— CHOUX  PASTE.     (Fr.— Pate  a  Choux.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  fine  flour,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  2 
large  or  3  small  eggs,  £  pint  of  water,  salt,  vanilla-essence  or  other 
flavouring. 

Method. — Put  the  water,  butter,  sugar,  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt  into 
a  stewpan,  and  when  boiling  add  the  flour,  previously  well  dried  and 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  883 

sieved,  and  stir  and  cook  gently  for  at  least  10  minutes.  Let  it  cool  a 
little,  then  beat  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  add  a  few  drops  of  the  flavour- 
ing ingredient,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

1651.— DRIPPING  CRUST.  (For  Plain  Pies  and 

Puddings.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  clarified  dripping,  £  a  pint  of 
water. 

Method. — With  a  knife  mix  the  flour  to  a  smooth  paste,  adding  the 
water  gradually.  Roll  the  paste  out  thinly,  place  $  of  the  dripping 
over  it  in  small  pieces,  and  fold  over.  Repeat  this  process  twice-. 
using  £  of  fat  each  time,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  £d.     Sufficient  for  2  Ibs. 

1652.— FLAKY     PASTE.  (For    Pies,    Tarts    and 

Tartlets.) 

Ingredients. — 12  ozs.  of  flour,  9  ozs.  of  butter  (or  butter  and  lard  mixed, 
£  of  a  pint  of  water  (about). 

Method.— Sieve  the  flour  into  a  basin,  and  rub  in  lightly  £  of  the 
butter.  Add  the  water  and  mix  into  a  smooth  paste,  more  or  less  moist, 
according  to  the  consistency  of  the  butter,  with  which  it  must  ag; 
this  respect ;  roll  it  out  into  a  long,  narrow  strip.  Divide  the  re- 
mainder of  the  butter  into  3  equal  portions  ;  put  one  portion  on  the 
paste  in  small  pieces,  dredge  lightly  with  flour,  fold  it  evenly  in  3,  turn 
it  round  so  as  to  have  the  folded  edges  to  the  right  and  left  when  rolling, 
press  the  edges  lightly  with  the  rolling-pin,  to  prevent  the  air  escaping, 
and  roll  out  as  before.  Repeat  this  process  with  the  other  portions 
of  butter.  The  pastry  may  be  used  at  once,  but  it  will  be  lighter  if 
allowed  to  stand  for  i  hour  in  a  cool  place  before  being  used.  In  mak- 
ing-up,  handle  as  lightly,  and  roll  as  evenly,  as  possible.  Bake  in  a 
hot  oven,  and  avoid  opening  the  oven  door  until  the  pastry  has  risen 
and  become  partially  baked. 

Time. — \  an  hour  to  bake.      Average  Cost,  lod. 

1653-— FLEAD  CRUST. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  \  a  Ib.  of  flead  (the  leaf  or  pork  from  which 
lard  is  made),  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  £  a  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Remove  any  skin  there  may  be,  and  slice  the  flead  into  thin 
flakes,  and  mix  it  with  the  flour  on  the  paste  board.  Roll  it 
lightly  with  the  rolling-pin.  Place  in  a  basin,  add  the  baking-powder, 
salt,  and  sufficient  cold  water  to  form  a  fairly  stiff  paste.  Roll  out, 
and  use  for  meat-pies,  etc. 

Time. — 10  minuU-s.     Average  Cost,  qd.     Sufficient  for  i  brut-  pie. 


884  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1654.— FRENCH  CRUST  OR  PATE  BRISEE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  %  a  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  %  a  pi11*  °f  water  (about). 

Method. — Sieve  the  flour,  add  the  salt,  rub  the  butter  lightly  in,  and 
mix  into  a  smooth  paste  with  the  eggs  and  water,  adding  the  latter 
gradually  as  the  paste  must  be  very  firm.  See  Pork  Pie. 

Time. — About  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  pd.  to  lod.  Sufficient  for 
2  ibs, 

I65S—FRENCH   PUFF  PASTE.          (Founded  on  M. 
Ude's  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  good  butter,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs, 
\  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  about  %  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Remove  as  much  moisture  as  possible  from  the  butter  by 
squeezing  it  well  in  a  dry  cloth.  Put  2  ozs.  aside,  form  the  remainder 
into  a  ball,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place.  Sieve  the  flour,  rub  in  the  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  add  the  salt,  and  moisten  with  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  water, 
adding  the  latter  gradually  until  the  right  consistency  is  obtained. 
Knead  quickly  and  lightly  until  smooth,  then  roll  out  to  the  thickness 
of  about  \  an  inch.  Enfold  the  ball  of  butter  in  the  paste,  press  lightly 
with  the  rolling  pin  until  the  butter  is  flattened,  and  afterwards  roll  out 
as  thinly  as  possible  without  allowing  the  butter  to  break  through. 
Fold  the  paste  in  three,  roll  out  thinly  as  before,  again  fold  in  three, 
and  put  it  aside.  Except  in  very  hot  weather,  the  paste  will  become 
sufficiently  cool  and  firm  in  about  20  minutes,  when  it  should  be  rolled 
out  twice,  and  again  put  aside  in  a  cold  place  for  about  20  minutes 
before  receiving  its  fifth  and  sixth  turns.  After  the  sixth  turn  the 
paste  is  ready  for  use,  and  may  be  converted  into  tartlets,  patties, 
vol-au-vent,  etc.,  particulars  of  which  will  be  found  under  respective 
headings. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib. 

!  656.— GENOESE  PASTE.     (Fr.— Pate  Genoise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  fine  flour,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
5  eggs. 

Method. — Dry  and  sieve  the  flour,  separate  the  whites  of  the  eggs  from 
the  yolks,  to  the  latter  add  the  sugar,  work  vigorously  until  it  has  a 
thick  creamy  appearance,  then  stir  in  the  butter  melted.  Whip  the 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  in  the  flour,  then  mix  lightly,  but  thoroughly, 
with  the  contents  of  the  other  basin.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  papered, 
buttered  tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  bake,  about  i  hour,  Average  Cost,  8d.  Suffi- 
cient for  i  medium-sized  cake. 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  885 

1657.— GENOESE  PASTRY.     (Another  Method.) 

(Fr.— Pate  Genoise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  fine  flour,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  4  o/s.  of  castor  sugar, 

4  eggs. 

Method. — Break  the  eggs  into  a  basin,  add  the  sugar,  place  the  basin 
over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  whisk  until  lukewarm.  Now 
remove  the  basin  and  continue  the  whisking  until  the  mixture  becomes 
thick  and  creamy,  then  add  the  butter  melted,  and  stir  the  previously 
sifted  flour  in  as  lightly  as  possible.  Have  ready  a  well-buttered 
papered  tin,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  Sd.  Sufficient  for 
i  medium-sized  cake. 

1658.— NEAPOLITAN  PASTE. 

Ingredients. — 10  ozs.  of  flour,  8  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  butter, 
6  ozs.  of  sweet  almonds,  i  oz.  of  bitter  almonds,  the  yolks  of  6  eggs, 
the  finely-grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  salt. 

Method. — Blanch  and  pound  the  almonds  to  a  smooth  paste,  moisten- 
ing from  time  to  time  with  a  little  cold  water  to  prevent  them  oiling. 
Add  the  flour,  sugar,  butter,  lemon  rind,  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and 
stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs.  Work  into  a  smooth  paste,  put  aside  in  .1 
cool  place  for  about  i£  hours,  then  roll  out  rather  thinly,  and  cut  into 
squares  or  rounds.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  |  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2S.  Sufficient  for 
about  2  Ibs. 

1 659. -PANCAKE   BATTER. 

See  Batter  for  Frying,  Recipes  Nos.   1645-1647. 
See  Yorkshire  Pudding,  Recipe  No.   1930. 

1660.— PASTE  FOR  RAISED  PIES. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  lard,  J  of  a  pint  of  water,  $  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  flour  and  salt  into  a  warm  basin,  and  let  it  stand 
near  the  fire  until  it  feels  dry  and  warm.  Boil  the  lard  and  water  for 

5  minutes,  then  pour  the  mixture  into  the  centre  of  the  flour,  and  mix 
well  with  a  spoon  until  cool  enough  to  knead  with  the  hands.     Knead 
well,  keeping  it  warm  during  the  process,  let  it  remain  near  the  fire  for 
about  i  hour,  then  re-knead  and  use  at  once. 

Throughout  the  processes  of  mixing,  kneading  and  moulding,  the 
paste  must  be  kept  warm,  otherwise  moulding  will  be  extremely  diffi- 
cult. On  the  other  hand,  if  the  paste  be  too  warm,  it  will  be  so  soft 
and  pliable  that  it  cannot  retain  its  shape,  or  support  its  own  \\ 


886  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Fine  flour  is  not  to  be  recommended  for  this  purpose,  for  it  is  deficient 
in  gluten,  a  sticky  tenacious  substance  which  greatly  increases  the 
adhesive  properties  of  the  paste,  and  so  makes  it  easier  to  mould. 
Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  5d.     Sufficient  for  i  large  pie. 

1 66 1  .—PASTE,    TRANSPARENT. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour  (dry  and  sifted),  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  i  egg. 

Method. — Wash  the  butter  in  2  or  3  waters,  and  afterwards  remove 
as  much  moisture  as  possible  by  means  of  a  dry  cloth.  Melt  the 
butter  over  a  gentle  fire,  let  it  remain  until  nearly  cold,  then  stir  in  the 
flour  and  egg.  Knead  "lightly  until  smooth,  roll  out  very  thinly,  and 
use  for  tartlets,  etc. 

Time. — About  ^  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  2  Ibs. 

1662.— PASTE,   TO   KEEP. 

Paste  not  intended  for  immediate  use  should  be  enfolded  in  grease- 
proof or  slightly  buttered  paper,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place. 

1663.— POTATO  PASTE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  dry  floury  potato,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  each  of 
lard  and  dripping,  i  egg,  a  little  warm  milk,  i  good  teaspoonful  of 
baking  powder,  a  good  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Bake  enough  potatoes  (in  their  skins)  to  yield  i  Ib.  of 
potato,  which  mash  smoothly  or  pass  through  a  sieve.  Rub  the  lard 
and  dripping  lightly  into  the  flour,  add  the  potato,  baking  powder  and 
salt,  and  stir  in  the  egg  and  enough  milk  to  form  a  smooth  paste. 
Roll  out  to  about  i  inch  in  thickness,  cut  into  rounds  or  squares,  place 
in  a  greased  tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  turning  2  or  3  times 
during  the  process,  that  both  sides  may  be  equally  browned.  Split, 
butter  liberally,  and  serve  at  once. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  ;d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

1664— POTATO    PASTE,   GERMAN.      (To  serve  with 
Game  or  Poultry.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  hot  potatoes,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  frying  fat. 

Method. — Pass  the  hot  potato  quickly  through  a  sieve,  or  mash  them 
smoothly.  Stir  in  the  butter  and  eggs,  spread  smoothly  on  a  dish, 
making  the  layer  about  f-  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and,  when  cold,  cut 
it  into  rounds  or  squares.  Coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs 
mixed  more  or  less  liberally  with  cheese,  according  to  taste,  and  fry  in 
hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Serve  as  an  accompaniment  to  game 
or  poultry. 

Time. — To  fry,  about  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  icd.  to  is.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons, 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  887 

1665.— PUFF  PASTE.     (Fr.— Feuilletage.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  flour,  i  Ib.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  about  £  of  a  pint  cold  water. 

Method. — Wash  and  squeeze  the  butter  in  cold  water,  dry  well  in  a 
floured  cloth,  shape  into  a  square  about  the  size  of  a  slice  of  sandwich 
bread,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  while  the  paste  is  being  prepared.  Sieve 
the  flour  on  to  a  marble  slab,  or  board,  make  a  well  in  the  centre,  put 
in  the  lemon-juice,  and  add  water  gradually  until  a  smooth  paste  is 
formed.  The  condition  of  the  butter  determines  the  consistency  ;  when 
soft,  the  paste  must  be  equally  so.  Knead  the  paste  until  smooth,  then 
roll  it  out  into  a  strip  a  little  wider  than  the  butter,  and  rather  more 
than  twice  its  length.  Place  the  butter  on  one  half  of  the  paste,  fold 
the  other  half  over,  enclosing  the  butter  entirely,  and  press  the  edges 
together  with  the  rolling  pin.  Let  it  remain  in  a  cool  place  for  about 
15  minutes,  then  roll  out  to  about  3  times  the  original  length,  but  keep- 
ing the  width  the  same,  and  fold  exactly  in  three.  Turn  the  paste  round 
so  that  the  folded  edges  are  on  the  right  and  left,  roll  and  fold  again, 
and  put  aside  for  15  minutes.  Repeat  this  until  the  paste  ha^ 
rolled  out  6  times.  The  rolling  should  be  done  as  evenly  as  possible, 
and  the  paste  kept  in  a  long  narrow  shape  which,  when  folded,  forms  a 
square.  Each  time  the  paste  is  rolled  out  it  may  be  well  sprinkled 
with  flour,  but  it  must  be  evenly  distributed  with  a  paste-brush,  and 
all  the  loose  flour  carefully  brushed  off  before  beginning  to  roll.  \Yhen 
the  paste  has  had  its  6th  roll  it  is  ready  for  use  ;  it  should  be  baked  in 
a  hot  oven,  and  until  the  paste  has  risen  and  become  partially  baked, 
the  oven  door  should  not  be  opened,  because  a  current  of  cold  air  may 
cause  the  flakes  to  collapse  on  one  side. 

Time. — i\  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  per  Ib. 

1666.— ROUGH  PUFF  PASTE,  OR  HALF-PUFF  PASTE. 

(Fr.— Pate  Demi-Feuilletage.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter  (or  equal  quantities  of 
butter  and  lard),  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt,  about  |  of  a  pint 
of  water. 

Method. — Sieve  the  flour  on  to  a  pasteboard,  divide  the  butter  into 
pieces  about  the  size  of  a  small  walnut  and  mix  them  lightly  with  the 
flour.  Make  a  well  in  the  centre,  put  in  the  lemon-juice,  salt,  and  i 
tablespoonful  of  water,  mix  lightly,  keeping  the  pieces  of  butter  intact, 
and  add  water  gradually  until  a  moderately  stiff  paste  is  formed,  Roll 
into  a  long  strip,  fold  it  equally  in  3,  turn  it  round  so  as  to  have  the 
folded  edges  to  the  right  and  left,  and  roll  out  as  before.  Repeat  until 
the  paste  has  been  rolled  out  4  times,  then  use  ;  or,  if  convenient,  let 
it  remain  for  i  hour  in  a  cool  place  before  being  used. 

Time.— £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  if  butter  is  used.  Sufficient  for  I 
pie  of  average  size. 


883  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1667.— RICH  SHORT  CRUST. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  level 
tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  lightly  into  the  flour,  add  the  baking- 
powder,  sugar,  yolks  of  eggs,  and  a  little  water  if  necessary,  but  this 
paste  must  be  rather  stiff,  and  when  the  butter  is  soft,  or  the  paste  is 
being  mixed  in  a  warm  place,  only  a  few  drops  of  water  may  be  re- 
quired. Roll  out  thinly  and  use  at  once.  The  crust  for  fruit  tarts 
should  be  lightly  brushed  over  with  cold  water,  and  dredged  with 
castor  sugar  before  being  baked. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  2  tarts  of 
medium  size,  or  24  patty-cases. 

1668.— SHORT  CRUST. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  lard,  i  yolk  of 
egg,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  about  £  of 
a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  and  lard  lightly  into  the  flour,  add  the 
baking-powder,  salt,  yolk  of  egg,  and  as  much  water  as  is  necessary 
to  form  a  stiff  paste.  Roll  out  to  the  required  thickness  and  use  at 
once. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  4^d.  Sufficient  for  i 
medium-sized  tart. 

1669.— SHORT  CRUST,  PLAIN. 

Ingredients. — \  Ib.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  lard,  clarified  fat,  or  dripping, 
i  teaspoonful  baking-powder  (heaped),  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a 
pint  of  water. 

Method. — Pass  the  flour,  salt,  and  baking-powder  through  a  sieve 
into  a  large  basin,  then  rub  in  the  fat,  add  the  water,  and  work  into  a 
smooth  paste  with  a  knife.  Roll  out  to  desired  shape  and  thickness, 
and  use  at  once.  When  required  for  fruit  tarts,  i  tablespoonful  of 
sugar  should  be  added  to  the  above  ingredients. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.  Sufficient  for  i  medium- 
sized  tart. 

1670.— SUET  CRUST,  RICH. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  6  ozs.  of  suet,  i 
heaped  teaspoonful  baking-powder,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  about  \ 
pint  of  water. 

Method. — Free  the  suet  from  skin,  shred  and  chop  it  finely.  Mix  well 
together  the  flour,  breadcrumbs,  suet,  salt  and  baking-powder,  and  add 
water  to  form  a  paste  soft  enough  to  roll  out  easily,  but  not  sufficiently 
moist  to  stick  to  the  board  and  rolling-pin.  This  paste  makes  an  ex- 


HOW  TO  MAKE  PASTRY. 


y 


the  H'»ir.  .id.i  -ui\  with   th«-  tiiic«'i^;    roll  -nit  .ind  pl.i.-i-  the  butter  in  the 

o-ntr*-;   fi'|<l  thr  ends  over,  m. iking  .in  I'livi-lnjH-  f<-r  thr   1-uttcr;   roll  out;   incth<xl    of    flaking 

t  pies;  method  of  cutting  out  tartlets  or  bom  1  ^  or  boucbees  for  baking. 

57 


PIES  AND  TARTLETS, 


i.  Sausage  Rolls.         2,   French  Jam  Tartlets.        3.  Raised  Pork  Pie. 


58 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  889 

ceedingly  lijjht  and  easily-digested  pudding,  but  in    consequence   cf 

\tremc  lightness  it  is  liable  to  break  if  turned  out  of  the  basin. 
Time. — £  of  an  hour.     Average   Cost,  51!.     Sufficient   for   i    fair  sized 
pudding. 

1671. -SUET  CRUST. 

Ingredients. — 12  ozs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  suet,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  |  teaspoonful  of  salt,  }  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Chop  the  suet  finely  with  a  little  of  the  flour,  mix  it  with 
the  other  dry  ingredients,  and  add  water  to  form  a  moder 

Roll  out  and  use  at  once.     This  paste  is  equally  suitaM 
truit  pudding,  jam  roly-poly,  or  plain  suet  pudd 
Time. — |  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  5 d.     Sufficient  for  i  large  pudding. 


1672.-  SUET  CRUST  FOR  MEAT  PIES. 

Ingredients. — 12  ozs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  suet,  i  heaped  teaspoonful  of 

.  }  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  J  pint  of  cold  water. 
Method.     Free  the  suet  from  skin,  shred  it  into  fine  flakes,  but  do 
not  chop  it.     Add  the  flour  to  the  suet,  and  mix  both  well  to 

then  add  the  salt,  baking-powder,  and  as  much  water  as  is 
hole  into  a  fairly  stiff  past  .1  lightly, 

ind  use  for  any  kind  of  pie  intended  to  be  eaten  hot. 
Time. — J  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  ^d.      Sufficient  for  i  large 

1673.     SWEET  PASTE  FOR  TARTLETS. 

(Fr.— Pate  a  Foncer  Sucre.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  fine  flour,  8  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  5  ozs.  of  butter. 
3  eggs,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  lemon. 

Method.  M  flour  into  a  basin,  make  a  well  in  the  centre,  put 

in  the  suqar.  l>  :e  whole  into  a  stiff  paste. 

and  use  as  required. 

Time.  -10  minutes     Average  Cost,  is. 

1674.— TO  GLAZE  PASTRY. 

usage-rolls,  and  similar  articles,  are  u 

brusln  •  >eaten  egg  before,  or  during  the  process  of  bak- 

;i  a  deeper  tone  of  colour  ;  :  the  yolk  alone  is 

•:ny  is  a  point,  and  thr  white  can  be  otherwise  utih 

little  milk  may  be  added  Ik  of  egg  when  a  larger  quantity  than 

is  afforded  u.dlv 

brusl;  over  with  col  :id  sprinkled  liberally  with  castor 


890  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

sugar  before  baking.  Or,  when  a  thin  coating  of  icing  is  desired,  they 
are,  when  nearly  baked,  brushed  over  with  well-beaten  white  of  egg, 
and  well-dredged  with  castor  sugar. 

Tarts,  Tartlets,  Etc. 

1675.— ALMOND      CHEESECAKES.          (Fr.— Tarte- 
lettes  aux  Amandes.) 

Ingredients. — Short  paste  No.  1667,01- 1668,  4  ozs.  of  ground  almonds, 
4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  J  of  an  oz.  of  cornflour,  %  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  whole 
egg,  i  yolk  of  egg,  raspberry  or  strawberry  jam,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs,  add  them  gradually  to  the  cornflour,  and 
stir  until  perfectly  smooth.  Add  the  sugar,  almonds,  butter  melted, 
and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Line  9  or  10  patty  pans  with  paste,  spread 
about  -|-  a  teaspoonful  of  jam  on  the  bottom  of  each  one,  and  rill  with 
the  mixture.  Bake  from  20  to  25  minutes  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Time. — 40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  9  or  10 
tartlets. 

ALMONDS. — Almonds  are  the  fruit  of  the  Amygdalus  communis,  cultivated  throughout  the  whole 
of  the  south  of  Europe,  Syria,  Persia,  and  northern  Africa  ;  but  England  is  mostly  supplied  with 
those  that  are  grown  in  Spain  and  the  south  of  France.  There  are  two  varieties,  distinguished 
in  commerce  by  the  names  of  Jordan  and  Valentia  almonds.  The  former  are  imported  from 
Malaga,  and  are  longer,  narrower,  more  pointed,  and  more  highly  esteemed  than  the  latter,  which 
are  imported  from  Valentia.  Bitter  almonds  are  a  different  variety  and  are  principally  obtained 
from  Morocco,  and  are  exported  from  Mogador. 

1676.— APPLE  AMBER. 

Ingredients. — 6  large  apples,  3  ozs.  of  moist  sugar.  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
3  eggs,  ^  a  lemon,  paste  trimmings,  or  4  ozs.  of  No.  1667,  or  1668,  ground 
cinnamon,  ground  cloves. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  put  them  into  the  stewpan 
with  sugar,  and  i  tablespoonful  of  water,  simmer  gently  until  tender, 
then  rub  through  a  hair  sieve.  Return  the  apple  pulp  to  the  stewpan, 
add  the  lemon-rind,  finely-grated,  lemon-juice,  and  a  good  pinch  each 
of  cloves  and  cinnamon.  Re-heat,  then  stir  in  the  butter  and  yolks  of 
eggs,  and  cook  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Meanwhile  line  the  edges 
of  the  dish  with  paste,  and  ornament  the  extreme  edge  with  small 
leaves  or  rounds  of  the  same,  arranged  to  slightly  overlap  each  other. 
Pour  in  the  apple  preparation,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  set. 
Have  ready  the  whites  of  eggs  whisked  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  sweetened 
with  a  little  castor  sugar,  arrange  in  a  rocky  form  on  the  top  of  the 
pudding,  sprinkle  liberally  with  castor  sugar,  and,  if  liked,  decorate 
with  cherries  or  candied  fruits.  Replace  in  the  oven  until  the  meringue 
hardens  and  acquires  a  little  colour,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.,  exclusive  of  the  paste. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 


' 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  891 


1677.— APPLE  CHEESECAKES. 

Ingredients. — i£  Ibs.  of  apples,  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  i$  oz.  of  butter.  3  eggs, 
I  lemon,  paste  No.  1668. 

Method.— Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  place  them  in  a  su-wpan 
with  the  sugar,  and  i  tablespoon ful  of  water,  simmer  gently  until 
tender,  and  rub  them  through  a  hair  sieve.  Return  the  apple-pulp  to 
the  stewpan.  add  the  lemon-juice  and  the  rind  fin-  1.  re-heat, 

stir  in  the  yolks  of  3  eggs  and  the  white  of  one,  and  cook  until  the  mix- 
ture thickens.     H:i\  the  patty-pans  lined  with  paste  and  par- 
tially baked,  fill  with  the  apple  preparation,  cover  lightly  with 
whip}                   ued  white  of  egg,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about 
15  minutes. 

Tlme. — About  i|  hours.     Average  Cost,  !  isive  of  the  , 

Sufficient  for  12  cheese-cakes. 

1  >u  \>TI  i      1  be  n    '  .:--ful  of  all  the  British  fruit*  it  the  apple,  u 

ann-w^  A  ..urbest 

apples   are  varieties  produced  bv  culture  or  particular  circumstances.      la  roost  temperate  cli- 

gland,  both    as   regards 

•fplt it •jcotOenl  .m«i  iboafnt    IMMBM     ,          •••      -    imi    ••    '.  •  •  •  .  •        -  •      ~--''       •  i 
Tasmania.    The  apples  grown  in  \  .versally 

to  be  amon«  the  finest  vprcimen*  of  this  fruit  .  but  unless  selected  and  packed  with  great 
y  are  apt  to  spoil  before  reaching  England. 

1678.  APPLE  TART.     (Fr.— Tourte  aux  Pommcs.) 

Ingredients.  — j  Ibs.  of  apples,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugai 
or  a  |  of  a  teaspoonful  of  gi  >«>.  1667,  or 

1668). 

Method. — Peel.  »1  cut  the  apples  into  thu  '  Koll  the 

into  an  o\  ian  the  top  ot 

the  dish  in  the  centre  of  the  paste,  and  cut  round.  leaving  a  .}  -in-  h  mar 
all  sitles.      Line  the  ed-.    OJ  .s,  put 

in  halt  tin  add  the  s  .  then  the 

uler  ol  the  Iruit.  e  lining  the  edge  of  the 

with  water,  put  on  t  nd  notch  them 

at  intervals  of  about  £  of  an  inch.     Bake  in  a  t>  i  from  40 

minutes,  and  when  :  i  -rush  it  o\ 

rol.l  \\ell  witl  -t  be  done 

nd  the  tart  imrmv  d  in  the  oven.     I(  the  tart 

is  to  be  eaten  cold,  directly  it  leaves  the  oven  the  crust  should  be  • 

some  of  the  steam  to  escape,  other  \\ 
lose  some  of  .ess. 

Time.-  A  hour.      Average  Coat,  6d.  to  8d..  c  of    the 

Sufllcient  tor  '>  or  7  persons. 

1679.  APPLE  TART  CREAMED.         (Fr.- -Tourte  de 

Pommes  a  la  Creme.) 

Ingredients.— Short  67),  2  Ibs.  of  apples,  2  tablespoon tu Is 

oz.  of  butter,  i   pint  of  custard  (A'o.  332). 


892  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  thick  slices,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  the  sugar,  butter,  and  i  or  2  tablespoonluls  of 
water,  and  cook  very  gently  until  tender.  Pass  the  apples  through  a 
hair  sieve,  add  more  sugar,  if  necessary,  and  put  the  puree  into  a  pie- 
dish  lined  with  pastry  (see  Apple  Amber,  No.  1676). 

Bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  the  paste  has  risen  and  set,  then  ad4  the 
prepared  custard,  and  bake  more  slowly  until  the  pastry  is  sufficiently 
cooked  and  the  custard  firm.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons. 

1680.— APPLE   TURNOVER. 

See  Fruit  or  Jam  Turnovers,  No.  1708. 

1 68 1  .—APRICOT     BOUCHEES.  (TV.— Bourses 

d'Abricots.) 

Ingredients. — Puff  paste  (No.  1665),  [  tin  of  preserved  apricots,  castor 
sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of  whipped-cream. 

Method. — When  the  paste  has  had  the  necessary  number  of  turns, 
roll  it  out  to  rather  less  than  -£-  an  inch  in  thickness.  With  a  hot  wet 
cutter  stamp  out  some  rounds  about  2  inches  in  diameter,  and  make  a 
deep,  circular  indentation  with  a  smaller  cutter.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven, 
and  when  cool  scoop  out  the  paste  within  the  ring.  Meanwhile  well 
drain  the  apricots  from  the  syrup,  put  half  an  apricot,  the  rounded  side 
down,  into  each  case,  and  fill  the  hollow  with  stiffly-whipped  sweetened 
cream. 

Time. — 12  minutes  to  bake.     Average  Cost,  2d.  each. 

1682.— APRICOT  TART.          (Fr.—  Tourte  d'Abricots.) 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  apricots,  sugar  to  taste,  short  paste  (No.  1667). 

Method. — Place  the  apricots  in  a  pie-dish,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and 
half  fill  the  dish  with  the  syrup  from  the  tin.  -'Cover  with  paste  (see 
Apple  Tart,  No.  1678),  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  from  30  to  40  minutes. 
When  the  paste  has  risen  and  set,  brush  it  over  lightly  with  cold  water, 
and  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar.  Return  quickly  to  the  oven.  ! 
finish  baking. 

Time. — About  i{-  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  5  to 
7  persons. 

APRICOTS. — The  apricot  is  indigenous  to  the  plains  of  Armenia,  but  is  now  cultivated  in  almost 
•every  climate,  temperate  or  tropical.  There  are  several  varieties.  The  skin  of  this  fruit  has  a  per- 
fumed and  highly  esteemed  flavour.  A  good  apricot,  when  perfectly  ripe,  is  an  excellent  fruit.  It 
lias  been  somewhat  condemned  for  its  laxative  qualities,  but  this  has  possibly  arisen  from  the  fruit 
having  been  eaten  unripe,  or  in  too  great  quantity.  Delicate  persons  should  not  eat  the  apricot 
uncooked,  without  a  liberal  allowance  of  powdered  sugar.  This  fruit  makes  excellent  jam'  and 
marmalade,  and  there  are  several  foreign  preparations  of  it,  which  are  considered  great  luxuries. 


I683--  BAKEWELL  TART. 

lasted  lent 

Met:it 
stir  ir. 

on  tl  >ut  I  an  i 

\boutihour.   Average  C  L    Sufficient 

1684.  BAKEWELL  TART.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients.—-)  o/s.  i-i  short  crust  (No.  1667,  or  1668),  20zs.ofb 

of  breadcrumbs,  i  egg,  2  ttblesr* 

almond  t 

Method.  ,»r  well  t« 

add  t  ew  drops  of  a'. 

add  a  good  layci  of    i 

Li«i  k  ( "  .'  1 1  >   1 1 1   '   ..11  !  i »        MI  .1  1 1  u  i  i  K 

Tinv  Average  Cc*-  SufHcii1 

1685.  BALMORAL  TARTLETS.          (Fr.—  Tartelettes 

a  la  Balmoral. 

Ingredients,     i  o/.  of  butter,  i  oz.  ot  ca> 

'   C88» 

Method. 

the  butter  ami 

lour.      Whip  the 

. 

Tim  Average  Cost,  i 

Sufficient 

1686.  -BARBERRY  TARTLETS.  elettes 

d'Epines-vinettes.) 

•3),  i  lb.  of  barberries,  |  a 


894         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method.  —  Remove  the  stalks,  put  the  fruit  and  sugar  into  a>^ar,  place 

;ir  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  or  in  a  slow  oven  and  coot  until 

o  a  s*»~T  jne  j  large,  or  2  medium-sized  tart  tins  with  the  pastey^ll 

:  jfi  or  crusts  of  bread  placed  in  buttered  papers,  and  bake 

drj^  ^k.oven.     When  cold,  fin  them  with  the  prepared 

'^ru^  -d  syru^Tand  serve. 

xirae.  —  About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  lod.  Sufficient  for  i  large 
or  2  medium-sized  tarts. 

BARBERRIES  (Bcrberris  Vulgaris).  —  A  fruit  of  such  great  acidity  that  even  birds  refuse  to  eat  it. 
In  this  respect,  it  nearly  approaches  the  tamarind.  When  boiled  with  sugar,  it  makes  a  very  agree- 
able preserve  or  jelly,  according  to  the  different  modes  of  preparation.  Barberries  are  also  used  as 
a  dry  sweetmeat,  and  in  sugar-plums  or  comfits  ;  are  pickled  with  vinegar,  and  are  utilized  for  various 
culinary  purposes.  They  are  well  calculated  to  allay  heat  and  thirst  in  persons  afflicted  with  fevers. 
The  berries  arranged  on  bunches  of  curled  parsley  make  an  exceedingly  pretty  garnish  for  supper 
dishes,  particularly  for  white  meats,  like  boiled  fowl  a  la  Bechamel,  the  three  colours  —  scarlet,  green 
and  white  —  contrasting  well  and  producing  a  very  good  effect. 

!  687.—  BLACK-CURRANT     TARTLETS. 

(Fr.  —  Tartelettes  de  Cassis.^ 

Ingredients.  —  Short  crust  (No.  1667.  or  1668),  i  Ib.  of  black-currants, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar.  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  castor  sugar. 

Method.  —  Cook  the  black-currants  with  the  sugar,  and  2  tablespoon- 
fuls of  water,  in  a  jar,  on  the  stove  or  in  a  slow  oven.  Line  12  patty- 
pans with  the  paste,  fill  them  with  rice  placed  in  buttered  papers,  and 
bake  until  crisp  in  a  brisk  oven.  When  cold,  fill  them  with  the  pre- 
pared cold  fruit  and  syrup,  cover  with  stiffly-  whipped,  sweetened  cream, 
and  serve  cold. 

Time.  —  About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  iod.,  exclusive  of  the  paste. 
Sufficient  for  12  tartlets. 


CURRANTS.  —  The  utility  of  currants,  red,  black  or  white,  has  long  been  established  in  domestic 
economy.  The  juice  of  the  red  species,  if  boiled  with  an  equal  weight  of  loaf  sugar,  forms  an  agreeable 
preserve  called  currant  jelly,  much  employed  in  sauces,  and  very  valuable  in  the  cure  of  sore  throats 
and  colds.  The  French  mix  it  with  sugar  and  water,  and  thus  form  an  agreeable  beverage.  The 
juice  of  currants  is  a  valuable  remedy  for  constipation  ;  and,  in  febrile  complaints,  it  is  useful  on 
account  of  its  readily  quenching  thirst,  and  for  its  cooling  effect  on  the  stomach.  White  andjlesh- 
coloured  currants  have,  with  the  exception  of  the  fulness  of  flavour,  in  every  Yespect  ~  the  sanT£-~  ~—  * 
qualities  as  the  red  species.  Both  white  and  red  currants  are  pleasant  additions  to  dessert,  but  the 
black  variety  is  more  generally  used  for  culinary  and  medicinal  purposes,  especially  in  the  form  of 
jelly  for  quinsy.  Black  currants  have  a  much  richer  and  less  acid  flavour  than  red  currants,  and 
are  better  adapted  for  tarts.  The  leaves  of  the  black  currant  make  a  pleasant  kind  of  tea. 

1688.—  CHERRY  TARTLETS.         (Fr.—  Tartelettes  de 
Cerises.) 

Ingredients.  —  \  a  Ib.  of  short  paste  (No.  1667),  i  Ib.  of  cooking  cherries, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  2  large  or  3  small  eggs,  castor  sugar. 

Method.  —  Remove  the  stalks  from  the  cherries,  put  them  into  a  small 
stewjar,  with  the  moist  sugar,  stand  the  jar  in  a  saucepan,  surround  it 
with  boiling  water,  and  cook  until  the  cherries  are  tender.  Meanwhile 
line  10  or  12  deep  patty-pans  with  the  paste,  fill  them  with  rice,  placing 
a  buttered  paper  between  it  and  the  paste,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 
When  the  cherries  are  sufficiently  cooked,  strain  off  the  syrup  into  a 


RI  FOR  PAST 

until  th< 

Time.  Average  Cost,   is.  to   is.   jd.     Sufflciei 


1689.— CHESTNUT  AMBER. 

Ingredients.-  I  a 

, 


Tim  Average  Cost,  about   i 


1690.— CHOCOLATE  TARTLETS.  < 

au  Chocolat.) 

Ingrtdienu 

.  i  an 


. 

896  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  from  20  to  25  minutes.  When  cold 
cover  the  surface  of  each  tartlet  with  chocolate  icing,  allow  it  to  harden 
then  serve. 

Time.— To  bake,  from  25  to  3o'-fliittes.  Average  Cost,  8d.,  exclusive 
of  paste  and  icing.  Sufficient  for  12  tartlets. 

i. —CHOCOLATE       TARTLETS.  (Another 

Method.) 

Ingredients.— Short  paste  (No.  1667),  Genoese  paste  (No.  1656),  choco- 
late icing  (No.  1733),  grated  cocoanut. 

Method. — Line  some  deep  tartlet  moulds  with  the  paste,  fill  them  with 
Genoise  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cold,  ice  them 
over  with  chocolate  icing,  and  sprinkle  with  cocoanut.  Variety  may 
be  introduced  by  using  orange  icing  (No.  1720),  or  transparent  icing  and 
chopped  pistachios. 

Time. — Half  an  hour. 

1692.— COFFEE  ECLAIRS.         (Fr.— Eclairs  au  Cafe.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  cornflour,  2  ozs._^— 
of  Viejwra  flour,  3  eggs,  ^  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence,  a  pinch  of 
•—•salt;  i  oz.   of  castor  sugar,  Moka  custard  for  filling,  coffee  icing  for 
covering,  No.   1735. 

Method. — Put  the  water,  butter,  sugar  and  salt  into  a  stewpan,  when 

boiling,  stir  in  the  cornflour  and  Vienna  flour  .(previously  mixed),  work 

it  with  a  woouv    -spoon  over  the  fire,  sufficiently  fc^ng  to^produce  a  soft 

paste  which  will  leave  the  side  and  bottomrof  the  pan  clean.     Draw 

the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  add  the  flavouring'' essence,  and  work  the 

eggs  in  gradually  (leaving  out  I  white).     Beat  the  paste  well  for  some 

-  minutes,  then  put  it  in  a  large  forcing  or  savoy  bag  with  a  plain  tube, 

and  force  out  even-sized  shapes,  similar  to  finger  biscuits,  on  to  a  lightly 

buttered  baking-tin,  about  i  inch  apart  from  each  other.     Bake  to  a 

?.  fawn  colour  in  a  moderate  oven.     When  done,  split  the  sides  with 

knife,  and  fill  each  with  i  teaspoonful  of  Moka  custard.     Have  _^*r 
,OJN        ne  coffee  icing,  and  dip  each  eclair  into  it,  so  as  to  cover  the 
~~^\ sides  well  and  smoothly.     Place  the  eclairs  on  a  wire  tray 
"'dish  up  when  required.        ^^ 

Ingred  8T 
,  tabu,*— MOKA  CUSTARD  FOR  FILLING  ECLAIRS. 

ingredients. —  i  gill  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  loaf  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  cornflour, 
\  an  oz.  of  fresh  butter,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  coffee  essence, 
a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method.— Put  the  milk  and  sugar  in  a  stewpan  to  boil,  Mix  the 
cornflour  with  a  ''ttle'cold  milk,  pour  the  boili££lmil)e  fJtf  this., 

1 


RECIPES  FOR  PAMKV  £00 

1700.— FLAN  OF  APPLES.     (Fr.— Flan  de   Pommes.^ 

Ingredients.- -3  or  4  apples,  i  tablespoonful  of  moist  sugar.  2  table- 
••rry.  4  cloves,  2  \\  'or  sugar,  |  a  Ib.  of 

>.  1667,  or  1668). 
Method.     Peel  pple  into  8  s<  them 

!d  the  cloves  an<l 
pan  in  a  tin  c<  <-nder.  but  not 

Meanwf 

or  pa>  rolled  out  to  .ibout   J-inch  in  thickness,  till  it 

with  rice,  placed  on  an  interlining  of  buttered  paper,  and  bak< 

.per,  fill  \ 

c  (if  any)  over  them,  ai 
\Vh;jM.  ?f  froth.  ^ 

castor  su 
until  old. 

ig  a  flan  aid  of  a 

of  a  round  cake-tin.     Tl 

:s  cut  round.  lea% 
\vards  raised  ami  mnul 

Ided  band 
i.     In 

edge  of  i 

I  in  both 

Time.— About  1}  hours.     Average  Cott,  from  SufHclent 


I70I.-FLAN  OF  PINEAPPLE.    (Fr— Flan  d'AnanasJ 

Ingredients. — J  a  jv  l  gga.  i  a  Ib.  of 

Method. 

11  the  specks. 

>:x>onlul  ,.f  si 

until  t 

until  ' 

Time.      V  Average  Cost.  [ft,     Sufficient  lor  5  or  6 


900  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1702.— FLAN   OF  STRAWBERRIES.      (Fr.—  Flan  de 
Praises.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  strawberries,  castor  sugar,  2  whites  of  eggs,  £  a 
Ib.  of  short  crust  (No.  1667,  or  1668). 

Method. — Make  the  flan  as  directed  in  No.  1700  ;  when  about  |  baked 
remove  the  rice,  and  fill  with  strawberries,  from  which  the  stalks  have 
been  removed.  Pile  the  fruit  high  in  the  centre,  dredge  well  with  castor 
sugar,  and  cover  with  stiffly-whisked  white  of  egg.  Cover  the  surface 
lightly  with  castor  sugar,  replace  in  the  oven,  and  bake  slowly  for  about 
15  minutes.  When  the  meringue  is  set,  cover  with  papsr  to  prevent 
it  browning  too  much  before  the  strawberries  are  sufficiently  cooked. 
Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

Note. — Almost  any  kind  of  fruit  may  be  made  into  a  flan  ;  the  varieties 
employed  for  culinary  purposes  may  be  broadly  divided  into  3  classes,  viz., 
fruit  requiring  a  comparatively  large  amount  of  cooking,  such  as  apples, 
pears,  plums  ;  quickly  cooked  fruits  like  strawberries,  raspberries,  etc.  ; 
and  tinned  fruits  which  simply  require  re-heating.  The  3  preceding  recipes 
illustrate  methods  applicable  in  each  case. 

1703.— FLUTED  ROLLS.     (Fr.— Rouloux.) 

Ingredients. — Puff  paste,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Roll  out  the  puff  paste,  dredge  it  well  with  castor  sugar, 
and  fold  as  usual.  Repeat  this  twice,  then  roll  it  out  to  about  £  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  and  stamp  out  some  rounds  with  a  fluted  2  inch  cutter. 
Roll  them  up,  brush  lightly  over  with  water,  dredge  with  castor  sugar, 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned. 

Time. — 10  minutes  to  bake. 

1704.— FOLKESTONE     CHEESECAKES. 

(Fr. — Gateau  de  Folkestone.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  ground  rice,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  currants,  cleaned  and  picked,  the  grated  rind  of  i 
lemon,  salt,  paste  (No.  1667,  or  1668). 

Method. — Simmer  the  ground  rice  in  the  milk  for  |  an  hour,  then  stir 
in  the  butter,  sugar,  lemon-rind,  the  well-beaten  eggs,  a  good  pinch  of 
salt,  and  stir  and  cook  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens. 
Now  let  it  cool  slightly,  and  meanwhile  line  the  patty-pans  with  paste, 
and  unless  the  oven  has  a  good  bottom  heat,  half  bake  them  before  put- 
ting in  the  mixture  (see  Cherry  Tartlets,  No.  1688).  When  ready, 
fill  them  with  the  cheesecake  preparation,  sprinkle  a  few  currants  on 
the  top  of  each  cake,  and  bake  from  25  to  30  minutes  in  a  brisk  oven. 

Time. — From  i^  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  7d.,  exclusive  of  the 
paste.  Sufficient  for  12  large  cheesecakes. 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  901 

1705.— FRANGIPAN    TART.  (Fr.— Tourte  a  la 

Frangipanne.) 

Ingredients. — Short  crust,  4  eggs,  i\  ozs.  of  butter,  i-J-  oxs.  of  sugar, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  i  l>  tine  strips  of  lemon- 

rin'l,  nutmeg. 

Method.— Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  simmer  the  re- 
mainder with  the  !  lemon-rind,  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  for 
about  15  minutes,  then  strain  it  on  the  blended  flour  and  milk,  stirring 
meanwhile.  Return  to  the  stewpan.  add  the  butter,  sugar,  and  slightly- 
s,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Line  a  tart-tin  with  the  paste,  pour  in  the  pre- 
paration when  cool,  and  bake  from  25  to  30  minutes  in  a  moderate 
Serve  cold. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  7d.,  exclusive  of  the 
paste.  Sufficient  for  i  large  or  2  medium-sized  ta 

"tinni  Puddings  were  originally  made    chiefly    of    broken    bread    and    a    great  variety 

•  es.     This  was  named  after    the   Marches*    Frangipanni,    head   of   a    very 

Koman  family  whose  privilege  it  was  to  supply  "  holy  bread  "  or  wafers  to  St.  Peter's  Cathe- 

u e  the  name,  derived  from  the  Latin  words  framgtrt  (to  break)  and  ptutts  (bread).     The 

:ipanm  was  the  inventor  of  the  complicated,  but  very  durable,  perfume  which  bears 

thu 


1706.— FRENCH  HONEY  ^Imitation).  (Fr.— Miel 

Fran^ais.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  }  ozs.  of  but: 

the  whites  of  4  eggs,  the  juice  of  4  lemons,  and  the  finely-grated  rind 
of  2  lemons. 

Method. — Place  the  sugar,  butter,  lemon-rind  and  lemon- juice  in  a 
jug,  stand  it  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  as  soon  as  the  su 
dissolved  add  the  beaten  eggs,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  thick<  : 
stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  this  preparation  will  keep  good  lor  months. 

Time. — \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d. 

1707.— FROSTED   ALMOND   SANDWICHES. 

(Fr. — Denises  aux  Amandes.) 

Ingredients. — Puff  paste  (No.  1665),  cheese-cake  mixture  (No. 
apricot  or  raspberry  jam,  blanched   and  shredded  almonds,  i  white 
.  milk,  castor  sugar,  vanilla  si; 

Method. — Roll  the  paste  out  to  about  a  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness 
cut  it  into  2  long  strips  3  inches  wide.     Place  one  strip  on  a 
baking-tin,  prick  lightly  with  a  fork  to  prevent  it  blistering,  spread  first 
a  thin  jam.  and  then  a  layer  of  (  ke  mixture.      ' 

with  the  other  strip  <  -loisten  the  edges  and  pinch  then 

brush  lightly  over  with  milk,  and  dredge  with  castor  sr,  ike  in 

a  mod  n  for  about  10  minutes,  and  let  the  •«>!  a  little. 

Whip  the  white  of  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  sweeten  with  i  tablcspoonful  of 


902  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

vanilla  sugar,  spread  it  lightly  on  the  pastry,  and  sprinkle  on  the  pre- 
pared almonds.  Divide  into  strips  about  i-£  inches  wide,  replace  in 
the  oven,  and  bake  for  10  minutes  longer. 

Time. — \  hour,  after  the  pastry  is  made.  .  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to 
is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  10  persons. 

1708.— FRUIT    OR    JAM    TURNOVERS. 

(Fr. — Patisserie  de  Fruit.) 

Ingredients. — Short  crust  or  puff  paste  (No.  1667,  or  1665),  stewed 
fruit  or  jam,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Roll  the  paste  out  thinly,  and  cut  it  into  rounds  about  4 
inches  in  diameter.  Place  a  little  fruit  or  jam  in  the  centre  of  each 
round,  moisten  the  edges  with  water,  and  fold  the  paste  over  on  3  sides  in 
the  form  of  a  triangle.  Seal  the  join  carefully,  turn  them  over,  brush 
lightly  with  cold  water,  and  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  each. 

1709.— GOOSEBERRY     TART.  (Fr.— Tourte     de 

Grosseilles.) 

Ingredients. — i  £  pints  of  gooseberries,  |  of  alb.  of  short  crust,  (Xo. 
1667,  or  1668),  £  of  a  Ib.  of  moisT~sugar. 

Method. — With  a  pair  of  scissors  cut  off  the  tops  and  tails  of  the  goose- 
berries ;  put  them  into  a  deep  pie-dish,  pile  the  fruit  high  in  the  centre, 
and  put  in  the  sugar  ;  line  the  edge  of  the  dish  with  short  crust,  put 
on  the  cover,  and  ornament  the  edges  of  the  tart  ;  bake  in  a  good  oven 
for  about  £  of  an  hour,  and  before  serving  dredge  with  castor  sugar. 

Time.— -To  bake,  about  £  hour.  Average  Cost,  icxl.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons. 

GOOSEBERRIES. — The  red  and  white  are  the  two  principal  varieties  of  gooseberries.  The  red  are 
rather  the  more  acid  ;  but,  when  covered  with  white  sugar,  are  more  wholesome,  from  the  circum- 
stance that  sugar  neutralizes  their  acidity.  Red  gooseberries  make  an  excellent  jelly,  which  is  light 
and  refreshing,  but  not  very  nourishing.  All  sorts  of  gooseberries  are  agreeable  when  stewed,  and 
in  this  country  especially  there  is  no  fruit  so  universally  in  favour.  In  Scotland  there  is 
scarcely  a  cottage  garden  without  its  gooseberry  busfie<?.  Several  of  the  species  are  cultivated 
with  the  greatest  care. 

1710.— GRANVILLE  TARTLETS.         (Fr.— Tartelettes 
a  la  Granville.) 

Ingredients. — Paste  (No.  1667,  or  i66&),  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  ozs.  of  currants,  cleaned  and  picked,  i  oz.  of  ground  rice,  i  oz. 
of  finely-shredded  candied  peel,  3  ozs.  of  cake  crumbs,  i  oz.  of  desiccated 
cocoanut,  2  whites  of  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  lemon  essence, 
transparent  icing  (No.  1737).  ^ 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  an^^ugar  together  until  thick  and  smooth* 
add  the  currants,  giound  rice,  peel,  cake  crumbs,  cream,  4  or  5  drops 
of  lemon  essence,  and  lastly,  the  stiffly- whipped  whites  of  eggs.  Line 
1 8  small  oval  tartlet  moulds  with  paste,  fill  them  with  the  preparation, 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  903 

and  bake  from  15  to  20  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  cool,  mask 
the  tartlets  with  icing,  and  sprinkle  them  with  desiccated  cocoanut. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.,  exclusive 
of  the  paste.  Sufficient  for  18  tartlets. 

1711.— LEMON  CHEESECAKES.         (Fr.— Tartelettes 
au  Citron.) 

Ingredients. — Short  paste  (Xo.  1667,  or  1668),  I  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  ^  of  a 
Ib.  of  butter,  6  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  2  lemons  and  the  juice  of  3,  finely- 
shredded  candied  peel. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar,  butter,  lemon-rind  and  strained  lemon- juice 
stcxvpan,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.      Beat  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  add  them  to  the  contents  of  the  .  and  stir  and  cook 

sl«i\\ly  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Le!  it  remain  in  a  cool  dry  place 
until  required.  Line  the  patty-pans  with  paste.  J  till  them  with  the 
preparation,  add  a  few  strip  \c  for  about  20 

minutes  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Time.—  T  ibout  20  minutes.     Average  Cost 

of  tin  Sufficient  ikes. 

. ml  stored   in  a  cool 
dry  place,  will  keep  good  for 

1712.— LEMON     TARTLETS.  (Fr.— Tartelettes 

au  Citron.) 

Ingredients.  —  S  \"o.  1667,  or  1668),  4  ozs.  of  butter.  4  ozs.  of 

gs,  i  lemon. 

Method. — Cream  the  luitter  ami  .ell  together,  beat  each  y<>lk 

;  in  separately,  and  add  the  juice  of  the  lemmi  ami  the  rind  finely 

;ul  in  a  i<»ol,  dry  pi  least  24  '' 

then  bake  in  ;  i  the  she  ; 

Time. — To  bake,  from  15  to  20  minutes.     Average  Cost.  .  i>i\i 

of  the  paste.     Sufficient  for  18  tartlets. 

1713.— LEMON    TARTLETS.         (Fr.— Tartelettes    au 
Citron.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. --  -  ->r  1668),  4  lemons,  4  o».  o: 

Tids. 

Method.  it    in  2  or  3  \\ 

until  tender,  then  pound  or  rub  through  a  tin  in  the 

nonds    and    lemon-juice,  and  boil  until    a 
thick  Line    in  or   12   pa' 

;•«!    bake    for  about    20  minut- »   in    a 
Iv  hot  oven. 

Time.      I  Average  Cost.  8d .. 

Sufficient  tor  10  < 


904  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1714.— MAIDS  OF  HONOUR. 

(Fr. — Dames  d'Honneur.) 

Ingredients. — Puff  paste  (No.  1665),  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of 
Jordan  almonds,  I-  an  oz.  of  fine  flour,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream,  I  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water. 

Method. — Blanch  and  dry  the  almonds,  and  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
with  the  sugar  until  fine.  Add  the  yolks  of  eggs  one  at  a  time,  and 
mix  in  the  flour,  cream  and  orange-flower  water.  Line  8  or  9  small 
tartlet  moulds  with  paste,  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  Sd.,  exclusive  of 
the  paste.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9  tartlets. 

1715.— MERINGUE   TARTS. 

See  Flan  of  Apples,  No.  1700  ;  Flan  of  Pineapple,  No.  1701,  ; 
Flan  of  Strawberries,  No.  1702  ;  Apple  Amber,  No.  1676. 

1716.— MINCE  PIES.     (Fr.— Pate  de  Fruits.) 

Ingredients. — Puff  paste  (No.  1665),  niince  meat  (No.  1740,  or  1741). 

Method. — When  the  paste  has  had  the  necessary  number  of  turns, 
roll  it  oat  to  about  a  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  line  some  large-sized 
patty-pans  with  it  (see  page  888).  Fill  with  mincemeat,  cover  with 
paste,  brush  over  lightly  with  cold  water,  and  dredge  with  castor  sugar. 
Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  from  25  to  30  minutes,  and  serve  either 
hot  or  cold. 

Time. — 30  minutes  to  bake.     Average  Cost,  i-}d.  each. 

1717.— OPEN    TART    OF    STRAWBERRY    OR   ANY 
OTHER  KIND  OF  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — Trimmings  of  puff  paste,  any  kind  of  jam. 

Method. — Butter  a  tart-pan  of  the  usual  shape,  roll  out  the  paste  to 
the  thickness  of  J  of  an  inch,  and  line  the  pan  with  it,  prick  a  few 
holes  at  the  bottom  with  a  fork  to  prevent  the  paste  rising  and  blister- 
ing, and  bake  the  tart  in  a  brisk  oven  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Let  the 
paste  cool  a  little  ;  then  iill  it  with  preserve,  place  on  it  a  few  stars  or 
leaves,  which  have  been  previously  cut  out  of  paste  and  baked,  and  the 
tart  is  ready  for  table.  By  making  the  tart  in  this  manner,  both  the 
flavour  and  the  colour  of  the  jam  are  preserved,  which  would  be 
spoiled,  were  it  baked  in  the  oven  on  the  paste,  and  less  jam  is  required. 

Time. — 10  minutes  to  bake. 

THE  STRAWBERRY.— The  well-known  and  much  esteemed  fruit  of  a  plant  of  the  genus  Fragaria, 
natural  order  Rosacea,  said  to  derive  its  name  from  the  resemblance  of  its  runners  to  straws. 
The  strawberry  belongs  to  temperate  and  rather  cold  climates  ;  and  no  fruit  of  these  latitudes,  that 
ripens  without  the  aid  of  artificial  heat,  is  at  all  comparable  with  it  in  point  of  flavour.  The  straw- 
berry is  widely  diffused,  being  found  in  most  parts  of  the  world,  and  more  particularly  in  Europe, 
and  America. 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  905 

1718.— ORANGE  TARTLETS.        (Fr. — Tartelettes  aux 
Oranges.) 

Ingredients. — 2  good  oranges,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  3  ozs.  of  sug  ; 
of  eggs,  i  white  of  egg,  V  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  •  iste(Xo.  1667, 

or  1668). 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  the  oranges  as  thinly  as  possible,  and 
chop  them  finely.     Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  well  together, 
each  yolk  in  separately,  add  2  tablespoon t'u Is  of  orange-juice,  the  orange- 
rind  and^vanilla  essence.     Whisk  the  white  of  egg  stiffly,  add  it  1; 
to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  pour  the  mixture  into   the    * 
moulds,  previously  lined  with  paste.     Bake  from  15  to  20  mini: 
a  moderate  oven,  and  when  $•  baked,  dredge    them  well  with  castor 

Time. — 30  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost.  8d.,  exclusive  of  the   i 
Sufficient  for  9  or  10  tartlets. 

1719.— ORANGE  TARTLETS.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — The  finely-grated  rind  of  2  oranges,  the  juice  of  i  01 

of  butter,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i£  ozs.  of  cakccrum 
; spoonful  of  cornflour,  paste  (No.  1667,  or  1668). 
Method. —Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  well  together,  beat  each  yolk 
!\ .  add  the  grated  orange-peel,  cornflour  and  orange  juice, 
•usly  mixed  smoothly  together,  the  cakecrumbs,  and  lastl 
Stiffly-whipped  whites  of  eggs.     Pour  the  mixture  into  10  or  i  j  t 
tins,  previously  lined  with  paste,  and  bake  for  about  20  minutes  in  .1 
moderately  hot  oven.     When  cold,  mask  with  the  icing  prepared  as 
below. 

1720.— PARISIAN  TARTLETS.         (Fr.— Tartelettes  a 
la  Parisienne.) 

Ingredients. — Short  crust  (No.  1667,  or  1668),  3  ozs.  of  butter,  3  < 
castor  sim'ar.  j  ozs.  of  cake  crumbs,  i  oz.  of  cornflour,  i   oz.  of  gioun-1 
almonds,  j  small  eggs,  2  tablespoon fuls  of   cream,   i    dessertsp- 
of  lemon-juice,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  v.xll  tog<  tlu-r  until  thu  ; 
smooth,  add  the  eggs  separately  and  beat  well.     Mix  the  < 
cornflour  smoothly  together,  stir  the  ingredients  into  the  mixture,  add 
the  ground  almonds,  cake  crumbs,  cinnamon  and  lemon-juice,  and  mix 
well  together.      Line  12  tartlet-moulds  with  paste,  till  them  with  the 

n.  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  1 5  to  20  minutes. 
it  4!  baked,  dredge  them  well  with  castor  sugar. 

Time.-    3')  to  40  minutes.      Average  Cost,  mil.,  exclusive  of   the  i 
Sufficient  for  12  tar 


906  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1721.— PASTRY  SANDWICHES.          (Fr.— Patisserie.) 

Ingredients. — Pastry  trimmings,  jam,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Knead  the  trimmings  lightly  into  a  smooth  round  ball,  and 
roll  out  very  thinly,  keeping  the  shape  as  square  as  possible.  Spread 
jam  evenly  over  one  half,  fold  the  other  half  over,  wet  the  edges,  and 
press  them  lightly  together.  Brush  over  with  water,  dredge  well  with 
castor  sugar,  and  with  the  back  of  a  blade  of  a  knife  mark  the  paste 
across  in  lines  about  i  inch  apart  Bake  for  about  20  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven,  and  when  cold  cut  the  paste  into  strips.  If  preferred, 
currants,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  sugar  and  shredded  candied 
peel,  may  be  used  instead  of  jam. 

Time. — 30  minutes. 

1722.— CREAM    BUNS.  (Fr.— Petite   Choux   a   la 

Creme.) 

Ingredients. — Choux  paste  (No.  1650),  %  a  pint  of  cream,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Shape  the  paste  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  Coffee  Eclairs, 
and  bake  them  from  10  to  15  minutes.  When  cool,  make  an  incision 
on  one  side,  scoop  out  the  soft  interior,  and  fill  them  with  stiffly- whipped 
sweetened  cream.  Dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i|-  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2d.  each.  Sufficient  for 
i  dish. 

1723.— POLISH  TARTLETS.         (Fr.— Tartlettes  a  la 
Polonaise.) 

Ingredients. — Puff  paste  trimmings,  raspberry  and  apricot  jam, 
chopped  pistachios,  grated  cocoanut. 

Method. — Roll  the  paste  out  thinly,  cut  it  into  2|-inch  squares,  moisten 
each  corner,  fold  them  over  to  meet  in  the  centre,  and  cover  the  join 
with  a  small  round  of  paste.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about 
15  minutes.  When  cold  place  a  little  jam  at  each  corner,  and  sprinkle 
cocoanut  on  the  raspberry  jam,  and  a  little  finely-chopped  pistachio 
nut  on  the  apricot  jam. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  10  to  15  minutes. 

1724.— PRUNE  TARTS.    (Fr. — Tourte  aux  Pruneaux.) 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  Ib.  of  prunes,  i  tablespoonful  of  cranberry  juice, 
sugar  to  taste,  paste  (No.  1667,  or  1668). 

Method. — Scald  the  prunes,  remove  the  stones,  and  take  out  the 
kernels  ;  put  the  fruit  and  kernels  into  the  cranberry  juice,  and  add 
the  sugar  ;  simmer  for  10  minutes,  when  cold  make  the  tarts.  Any 
stone  fruit  can  be  cooked  in  the  same  way. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  Sd.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  2 
medium-sized  tarts. 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  9°7 

1725.— PUMPKIN  PIE. 

Ingredients. — To  every  quart  of  pumpkin,  strained,  allow  6  eggs,  }  of  a 
Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  pint  of  sweet  milk,  £  a  Ib.  of  white  sugar,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  French  brandy,  i  gill  of  Madeira  or  sherry,  paste  (No.  1667, 
or  1668)., 

Method. — Cut  the  pumpkin  into  large  pieces  ;  peel  these,  and  put 
them  into  cold  water  over  a  very  slow  fire  ;  simmer,  without  boiling, 
until  every  piece  is  tender,  then  strain  through  a  colander,  and  after- 
wards through  coarse  muslin.  To  every  quart  of  the  pumpkin  add 
the  ingredients  given  above,  the  eggs  previously  beaten  till  thick  and 
light,  and  the  butter  and  sugar  stirred  to  a  cream.  When  well  mixed, 
bako  in  a  pie-dish  lined  and  covered  with  paste. 

Time. — 1£  hours.       Average  Cost,  2s.  per  pie.       Sufficient  for  6  or  8 

'IIS. 


1726.— PUFF  PASTE  RINGS  WITH  JAM. 

Ingredients.— Puff-paste  trimmings,  jam.  white  of  egg,  castor  sugar. 

Method.  Roll  the  paste  out  to  about  a  ±  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and 
stamp  out  an  equal  number  of  rounds  2\  and  i|  inches  in  diameter. 
Brush  the  larger  rounds  over  with  white  of  egg  ;  stamp  out  the  centre 
of  the  smaller  rounds,  thus  forming  them  into  rings,  one  of  which  must 
be  pressed  lightly  on  the  top  of  each  round  of  paste.  Bake  in  a  moder- 
ately hot  ovrn.  and  when  cold  fill  with  jam. 

Time.— 15  minutes  to  bake.     Average  Cost,  2d.  each. 


1727.— RASPBERRY     TARTLETS.      (Fr.— Tartelettes 
aux  Framboises.) 

Ingredients.  Short  paste  (No.  1667,  or  1668),  i  pint  of  raspberries,  £  a 
Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  ±  of  a  pint  of  water,  £  a  glass  of  brandy  (optional), 
desiccated  cocoanut. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  until  reduced  to  a  syrup, 
add  the  raspberries,  and  cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes.  Drain,  replace 
the  syrup  in  the  stcwpan,  boil  rapidly  until  considerably  reduced,  then 
let  it  cool,  and  add  the  brandy.  Line  10  or  12  patty-pans  with  paste, 
fill  them  with  rice,  placed  in  buttered  papers,  and  bake  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven  until  crisp.  When  cool,  fill  them  with  the  prepared  fruit, 
add  an  equal  portion  of  syrup  to  each  tartlet,  sprinkle  with  cocoanut, 
cold. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  10  to  i  5  min  ites.  Average  Cost,  is.  jd.  to  is.  6d., 
ive  of  the  paste.  Sufficient  l»r  ;  >  v>r  u  tartlets. 


9o8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1728.— RED  CURRANT  AND  RASPBERRY  TART. 

(Fr. — Tourte    aux    Groseilles    rouges.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  red  currants,  \  a  pint  of  raspberries,  2  or  3 
tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  short  crust  (No.  1667,  or  1668). 

Method. — Strip  the  currants  from  the  stalks,  put  half  of  them  into 
a  pie-dish  with  an  inverted  cup  in  the  midst,  add  the  sugar  and  rasp- 
berries, then  the  remainder  of  the  currants,  piling  them  rather  high  in 
the  centre.  Cover  with  paste  (see  Apple  Tart,  brush  lightly  over 
with  water,  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  for  about  £  of  an 
hour  in  a  moderately  hot  oven, 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.,  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

RASPBERRIES.— There  are  two  sorts  of  raspberries,  the  red  and  the  white.  Both  the  scent  and  the 
flavour  of  this  fruit  are  very  refreshing,  and  the  berry  itself  is  exceedingly  wholesome  and  invaluable 
to  people  of  a  nervous  or  bilious  temperament.  It  is  a  delicate  fruit,  but  well  repays  careful  cultiva- 
tion. Growers  have  succeeded  in  producing  several  fine  varieties  for  cooking,  jam  making,  and 
dessert.  In  Scotland  it  is  found  in  large  quantities  growing  wild,  and  is  eagerly  sought  after  in  the 
woods  by  children.  Its  juice,  which  is  rich  and  abundant,  is  extremely  agreeable. 

1729.— ST.     CLOUD    TARTLETS.       (Fr.— Tartelettes 
a  la  St.  Cloud.) 

Ingredients.— Short  paste  (No.  1667 ),  puff -paste  or  puff-paste  trimmings, 
£  a  Ib.  of  gresngage  jam,  castor  sugar,  vanilla  sugar,  £  a  gill  of  cream, 
glace  cherries,  angelica. 

Method. — Line  the  patty-pans  with  short  paste,  brush  the  edges  lightly 
over  with  beaten  egg  or  water,  and  sprinkle  with  castor  sugar.  Fill 
them  with  jam,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  from  10  to  15 
minutes.  Roll  the  puff-paste  out  to  about  £  of  an  inch  or  less  in  thick- 
ness, and  stamp  out  some  rings  fully  \  an  inch  less  in  diameter  than  the 
tartlets.  Brush  them  over  with  milk,  turn  the  wet  side  on  to  the  castor 
sugar,  and  place  on  the  baking-sheet  sugared  side  upwards.  Bake  in 
a  quick  oven  ;  when  cold,  place  the  rings  of  paste  on  the  tartlets,  and 
fill  the  centre  with  cream,  stiffly-whipped  and  sweetened  with  vanilla 
sugar.  Place  half  a  glace  cherry  in  the  centre  of  each,  and  insert  a 
few  strips  or  leaves  of  angelica  to  complete  the  decoration. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Coat,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  8  or  9  tartlets. 

1730.— SAINT  DENIS  TARTLETS.      (Fr.— Tartelettes 
a  la  Saint  Denis.) 

Ingredients. — Pastry  (No.  1667),  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
2  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  i  level  tablespoonful  of  cornflour,  2  yolks 
of  eggs,  i  white  of  egg,  vanilla  essence,  raspberry  jam. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and  smooth, 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY  909 

beat  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the  ground  almonds,  cornflour,  a  few 
drops  of  vanilla  essence,  and  lastly,  the  stiffly-whisked  white  01 
Line  12  tartlet  moulds  with  paste,  spread  a  small  teaspoonful  of  jam 
at  the  bottom  of  each  one,  fill  them  with  the  preparation,  and  fix  2 
narrow  strips  of  paste  across  the  top.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from 
15  to  20  minutes. 

Time. — TO  bake,  from  15  to  20  minutes.      Average  Cost,  8d.,  exclusive 
of  the  paste.     Sufficient  for  12  tartlets. 


Icings,  Fillings,  Etc. 

1731.— ALMOND  PASTE.    (Fr.— Pate  d'Amandes.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  6  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  white  of 
lemon  juice. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar,  with  i  tablespoonful  of  water,  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  lemon  juice  into  a  stewpan,  bring  to  the  boil,  skim  well,  and  K  il 
to  the  "  ball  degree  "  (see  page  1070,  No.  2264).     Pour  the  syrup  on  to 
the  ground  almonds,  add  about  £  the  white  of  egg,  mix  \v». •!; 
and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  one  small  cake. 


1732.— CHOCOLATE       ICING.  (Fr.— Glace      au 

Chocolat.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  chocolate,  £  a  Ib.  of  icing  sugar.  ^  a  gill  of  v 
Method. — Break  the  chocolate  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  water,  and  stir  In  the  ^d.-  of  the  fire  until  di^sohrd. 
Add  the  icing  sugar,  stir  until  well  mixed  and  smooth,  then  use  as  re- 
quired. 

Average  Cost.— 6d. 


I733-— COFFEE  BUTTER.     (Fr.— Beurre  au  Moka.) 
Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  fresh  butter,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i 

yolk  of  egg,  coffee  essence. 

Method. — Cream  the  sugar  and  yolk  of  egg  for  about  10  minutes,  add 

coffee  essence  to  taste,  and  the  softened  butter  gradually.     \\Ork  until 

thoroughly  mixed  and  smooth,  let  it  remain  on  ice  until  firm,  stir  again. 

then  use  for  decorating,  by  means  of  a  paper  cornet,  or  bag  and  i 
Average  Cost. — 6d. 


9io  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1734.— COFFEE  ICING.     (Fr.— Glace  au  Cafe.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  icing  sugar  or  fine  castor  sugar,  i  gill  of  cold 
water,  i  dessertspoonful  of  coffee  essence. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  and  water  into  a  stewpan,  stir  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  until  it  reaches  boiling  point,  and  simmer  for  4  or  5  minutes. 
Pour  the  syrup  into  a  basin,  add  the  coffee  essence,  and  stir  until  the 
icing  becomes  less  transparent  as  it  cools.  If  used  before  it  reaches  this 
point  it  will  have  a  dull  appearance. 

Average  Cost. — 6d. 

I735._ORANGE  ICING.     (Fr.— Glace  d'Orange.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  icing  sugar,  the  juice  of  i  orange. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  and  orange-juice  into  a  small  stewpan,  stir 
until  well-mixed  and  smooth,  and  pour  an  equal  portion  over  the  top 
of  each  tartlet. 

Time. — i^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.,  exclusive  of  the  paste.  Sufficient 
for  10  or  12  tartlets. 

1736.— ROYAL  ICING.     (Fr.— Glace     Royal.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  icing  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  i 
white  of  egg. 

Method. — Put  the  white  of  egg  into  a  basin,  add  the  sugar  gradually 
and  work  well  with  a  wooden  spoon.  When  the  preparation  presents 
a  smooth,  white  brilliant  appearance  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  use  as 
required. 

Average  Cost. — 4d. 

I737-—  TRANSPARENT    ICING.       (Fr.— Glace   trans- 
parente.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  ^  of  gill  of  warm  water. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  and  water  into  a  sugar  boiler  or  stewpan,  let 
it  dissolve,  then  bring  to  the  boil  and  simmer  for  about  5  minutes,  or 
until  a  thick  syrup  is  formed  (230°  Fahr.  on  a  saccharometer).  Pour 
into  a  basin,  stir  until  almost  cold  and  setting,  then  use  as  required. 

Average  Cost. — 3d. 

1738.— CONFECTIONER'S  CUSTARD.  (Fr.— Creme 
Patissiere.) 

Ingredients. — 4  yolks  of  eggs,  i£  pints  of  milk,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
£  an  oz.  of  potato  flour,  3  sheets  of  French  gelatine,  flavouring  essence. 

Method. — Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the  re- 
mainder, add  the  sugar  and  blended  cornflour,  boil  for  2  minutes,  then 
pour  over  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  stirring  meanwhile.  Return  to 
the  stewpan  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens, 
then  add  the  gelatine,  previously  dissolved  in  i  tablespoonful  of  water, 
and  the  flavouring  essence,  and  use  as  required. 

Average  Cost. — o.d. 


RECIPES  FOR  PASTRY 

I739.—FRANGIPAN        CREAM.  (Fr.— Creme- 

Frangipanne.) 
Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  fine  sifted  flour,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar, 

of  butter.  4  OCM;S.  i  pint  of  milk,  flavour  ice. 

Method.  <>lks  and  2  whites  ot  engs.  the  flour,  sugar,  and  a. 

little  pinch  of  salt  into  a  small  strwpan.  stir  and  cook  by  the  side  of 
re  until  well  mixed,   then  add  the  milk  gradually.     When  per- 
fectly  smooth,  stir  in  the  butter,  cook  gently  for  about  10  m'< 
then"  turn  into  flavour  tn  nd  when  cool  use  as  reqiim-d 

for  filling  tartlets,  etc. 

Average  Cost. — lod. 

1740.     MINCEMEAT. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  nnely-ch< 

and  picked,  i  Ib.  of  raisins  stoned  and  •  i.   i    Ib.  ot  cl. 

-.  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,   i  Ib.  of  sul  «»f  a  Ib.  of  sin- 

peel,  j  lemons,  £  a  gill  of  brandy,  $  a  saltspoonfui 
of  mi1  non. 

Method.-  Paro  the  lemons  thinly,  simmer  the  rinds  in  a  lr 
until   .  -id  them  <>r  rub  tin-in   through 

v  place  for  at  least  i  month  before 
Average  Cost.— 6d.  per  11  >. 

1741.— MINCEMEAT.     (Another  Method. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  apples,  i  Ib.  • 
and  picked,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  j  of  a  Ib.  of  raisins.  > 
and  quartered.  \  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  finely 

the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  2  lemons.  |  a  teaspoon- 

ful  of  cinnamon,  ground  aace  and  nutmeg,  mixed  in  equal  pro- 

portions, £  of  a  pint  of  brandy. 

Method.— Mix  all  these  ingredients  well  together,  press  them  into  a 
jar,  cover  closely  and  store  in  a  cool  dry  place  until  required.     It  should 
>t  lor  i  month  at  least  before  being  used. 

Average  Cost. —About  6d.  per  Ib. 

1742.     MINCEMEAT  ^Economical.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  chopped  apples,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  currants,  washed 

and  ]  >ned  and  quartered,  £  a  Ib.  of  finely- 

•  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  chopped  candied  peel, 

ice  and  grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  I  saltspoonful  of  grated  mr 
Method.— Mix  all  •  ntswrll  tmj'-thcr.and  keep  in  cl 

MI  a  cool,  dry  pb.:e.  until  required. 
Average  Cost. — 6d. 


9i2  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

1743.— MINCEMEAT,  AMERICAN  RECIPE  FOR. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  fresh  beef-tongue,  i  Ib. 
of  finely-chopped  suet,  2  Ibs.  of  sugar,  2  IDS.  of  currants,  washed  and 
dried,  2  Ibs.  of  raisins,  stoned  and  quartered,  i  Ib.  of  shredded  candied 
citron,  3  Ibs.  of  chopped  apples,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  4  lemons,  £  of  a 
teaspoonful  each  of  ground  allspice,  cloves,  cinnamon  and  nutmeg, 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  i  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  £  pint  of  brandy, 
i£  pints  of  sherry,  i  pint  of  sweet  cider. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  apples  and  cider.  Let 
it  remain  in  covered  jars  for  3  days,  then  add  the  cider  and  apples,  and 
use. 

Average  Cost. — About  lod.  per  Ib. 

1744.— MINCEMEAT,  LEMON. 

Ingredients. — 2  large  lemons,  6  large  apples,  \  a  Ib.  of  suet,  i  Ib.  of 
currants,  \  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  candied  lemon-peel,  i  oz.  of  citron, 
mixed  spice  to  taste. 

Method. — Pare  the  lemons,  squeeze  them,  and  boil  the  peel  until  it 
is  tender  enough  to  mash.  Add  to  the  mashed  lemon-peel  the  apples, 
which  should  be  pared,  cored  and  minced,  the  chopped  suet,  currants, 
sugar,  sliced  peel  and  spice.  Strain  the  lemon-juice  to  these  ingredients, 
stir  the  mixture  well,  and  put  it  in  a  jar  with  a  close-fitting  lid.  Stir 
occasionally,  and  in  a  week  or  10  days  the  mincemeat  will  be  ready  for 
use. 

Average  Cost. — is.  /d. 

I745-— VANILLA  SUGAR.     (Fr.— Sucre  a  la  Vanille.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  vanilla  pod. 

Method.— Cut  the  pod  into  small  pieces,  pound  with  the  sugar  in  a 
mortar  until  smooth,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Unless  kept  in  a 
perfectly  air-tight  tin,  the  sugar  will  lose  much  of  its  flavour. 

Average  Cost. — 2s.  6d. 


PUDDINGS,  SOUFFLES, 
OMELETS  AND  FRITTERS 

CHA1TKK     XXXII 

To    avoid    repetition  in  the  recipes  for  the;<\  the  application  of  the 
principles  of  boiling,  steaming,  baking  and  frying  such  prcpar 
be  here  briefly  described.     Success  in  preparing   dishes  of  this 

Is    more    on    suitable    proportions,    manipulation,    and    proper 
application  of  heat  than  on  the  TV.  I,  which  are  usually 

of  a  simple  character.     Although    the    terms   suet,    milk,    batter  and 
may    be    used   to    describe  briefly  a  lar^e  proportion  of    the 
puddings  which  form  part  of  tin-  1C  masses,  the; 

large  number  of  sw^eet  dishes  that  cannot  be  included  in  this  . 
fication,    but    individual   recipes    to    which    general    remarks    do  not 
applv   will   be  .nl. 

in  the  following  chap!  .  as  nearly  as  possihle, 

the  exact  amount  of  the  ingredients  which  comprise  the  dish.  Such 
terms  as  "well  buttered  mould,"  "creaming,"  "  stiffly-whipped 
or  whisked  "  will  be  explained  in  the  present  chapter,  for  the  con- 
venience of  the  uninitiated. 

Preparation  of  Moulds  and  Basins. — When  the  pudding  to  be  cooked 
is  substantial  in  character,  the  mould,  basin  or  dish  may  be  gi 
with  a  little  fresh  butter  or  fat;  but  moulds  intended  for  light  puddings, 
souffles  or  omelets  should  be  well  coated  with  cool   clarified  butt-  r, 
using  a  small  brush  for  this  purpo- 

Chopping  Suet. •— Kither  beef  or  mutton  suet  may  be  used  for  puddings 

made  with  the    former   is   lighter,  mutton  suet  is  less  rich,  and 

its  flavour  is  not  always  liked.     To   prepare  suet  for  use,   remo\ 

skin,   shred   or  cut  it  down  in  very  thin  flakes,  and  chop  it  finely. 

During  the  process  sprinkle   it   liberally   with   some  of   the  flour  or 

vhen  making  mincemeat,  which    contains  neither 

of  these  inirr-;-  1  >e  some  of   the  sugar  for  the  purpose.     Chop- 

tiould  N>  done  with  a  1  irge  sharp  knife  held  in  the  right  hand, 

the  handle  quickly,  while   the  tinkers  of  the  left 

hand  hold   the  pomt  of   the  blade,  and  keep  it   pressed   firmly  to  the 


9i4  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Creaming  Butter  and  Sugar,  or  Yolks  of  Eggs  and  Sugar. — The  term 
"  creaming  "  by  no  means  describes  the  process  by  which  butter  and 
sugar,  or  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar  are  amalgamated.  Butter  and  sugar 
are  pressed  by  means  of  a  wooden  spoon  against  the  sides  of  a  basin 
until  the  friction  has  softened  the  butter,  and  the  ingredients  are  then 
stirred  vigorously,  keeping  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  constantly  pressed 
against  the  sides  or  bottom  of  the  basin,  not  alternately  raised  and 
lowered  as  in  beating.  In  cold  weather  the  butter  may  first  be  slightly 
warmed,  but  it  must  not  be  allowed  to  melt.  Yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar 
are  simply  stirred  together  until  thick  and  creamy. 

Preparation  of  Dried  Fruits. — As  currants  do  not  keep  for  any  length 
of  time  they  should  never  be  bought  in  large  quantities.  They 
may  be  cleaned  with  a  little  flour  on  a  sieve,  but  some  cooks  pour 
boiling  water  over  them  to  plump  them,  and  afterwards  drain  and 
dry  them  thoroughly.  In  either  case,  they  must  be  dropped  on  a 
plate  a  few  at  a  time  to  detect  the  stones.  Sultanas  should  be  cleaned 
with  a  little  flour  on  a  sieve  and  have  the  stalks  removed,  and 
Valencia  raisins  must  be  halved  and  stoned. 

Boiled  Puddings. — To  ensure  perfect  cooking,  the  following  rules, 
which  apply  equally  to  rich  or  plain,  large  or  small  puddings,  must  be 
observed. 

1.  The  mould  or  basin  must  be  perfectly  dry  and  well  coated  with 
butter  or  fat. 

2.  The  pudding  must  completely  fill  the  mould  or  basin. 

3.  A  scalded  and  floured  cloth  should  be  tied  securely  over  the  top 
of  the  basin,  but     rather  loosely  round  a  roly-poly  or  other  pudding 
not  boiled  in  a  basin. 

4.  The  water  must  be  boiling  rapidly  when  the  pudding  is  put  in. 

5.  The   water  must  completely  cover  the  pudding,   and  be  deep 
enough  to  float  those  boiled  in  cloths,  otherwise  a  plate  or  saucer  must 
be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 

6.  As  the  water  boils  away,  boiling  water  must  be  added. 

7.  The  pudding  must  stand  a  few  minutes  before  being  turned  out, 
in  order   that   some  of   the   steam   may   escape,  and  thus  cause  the 
pudding  to  shrink  and  less  liable  to  break. 

Steamed  Puddings. — Puddings  steamed  over  water  are  lighter  than 
when  immersed  in  it,  but  they  cook  more  slowly.  A  quicker  method, 
and  one  that  gives  practically  the  same  results,  is  to  stand  the  pudding 
in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water  to  about  half  the  depth  of  the 
mould  or  basin,  the  surrounding  water  being  frequently  replenished 
with  more  boiling  water.  A  pudding  to  be  steamed  should  not  more 
than  three-quarters  fill  the  basin;  and  two  folds  of  paper,  made  water- 
proof by  being  rubbed  with  butter  or  fat,  should  cover  the  top  instead 
of  a  cloth,  which  prevents  the  pudding  rising. 

Milk  Puddings. — Milk  puddings  usually  have  the  addition  of  eggs  or 
some  granular  or  powdered  farinaceous  substance,  or  they  may  consist 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  915 

of  milk,  eggs,  and  a  farinaceous  grain  or  powder.  The  three  varieties 
would  be  represented  by  a  custard  pudding,  a  plain  rice  pudding,  and 
a  cornflour  or  semolina  pudding  made  with  eggs.  A  well-made  milk 
pudding  is  a  palatable  and  usually  acceptable  dish,  and  being  so  easily 
made  it  is  difficult  to  understand  why  they  are  nearly  always  » 
in  too  dry  or  too  liquid  a  condition,  when  the  mean  is  so  easily  obtained. 
If  a  custard  pudding  be  allowed  to  boil  it  becomes  watery;  if  cooked 
too  quickly,  without  actually  boiling,  it  is  full  of  holes.  When  the  oven 
is  too  hot  the  pudding  "may  be  kept  below  boiling  point  by  placing  the 
dish  containing  it  in  a  tin  of  water,  to  which  must  be  added,  from  time 
to  time,  a  little  cold  water  to  prevent  it  boiling.  Rice  pudding,  or 
any  farinaceous  pudding  without  eggs,  should  first  be  put  into  a  hot 
oven  for  a  short  time  to  bring  the  milk  quickly  to  near  boiling  point, 
but  afterwards  they  should  be  cooked  as  slowly  as  possible,  in  order 
that  the  grains  may  have  ample  time  to  swell.  It  is  better  to  simmer 
small  grains  like  ground  rice,  semolina,  and  fine  sago  in  a  saucepan, 
preferably  a  double  one,  until  the  substance  is  well-cooked.  Eggs 
are  easily  digested  when  lightly  cooked,  but  become  insoluble  when 
over-cooked,  and  for  this  reason  they  should  not  be  added  to  the 
farinaceous  preparation  until  it  is  fully  cooked,  and  then  10  minutes 
baking  in  a  moderate  oven  is  all  that  is  necessary  to  set  the  egg  and 
brown  the  surface  of  the  pudding.  For  ordinary  purposes  skimmed 
milk  may  be  used,  but  the  fat  or  cream  of  which  it  has  been  dej 
should  be  replaced  by  a  little  butter  or  finely-chopped  suet,  the  pro- 
portion of  the  latter  being  £  a  tablespoonful  to  i  pint  of  milk. 

Batter. — Whether  the  batter  is  intended  for  a  pudding  or  fn 
certain  points  need  careful  attention. 

1.  It  must  be  mixed  as  smoothly  as  possible,  and  this  is  effected  by 
not  adding  much  liquid  until  all  the  lumps  of  flour  have  been  1>- 
out. 

2.  It  should  be  well  beaten  to  get  the  air  in. 

3.  It  should  stand  for  at  least  i  hour  in  order  that  the  flour  grains 
may  swell  and  burst  and  ferment.     The  batter  may  be  made  more  easily 

tible  by  prolonging  this  process  of  fermentation. 

4.  It  is  usually  cooked,  i.e.  fried,  at  a  high  temperature. 

Fritters. — To    successfully  try  any  tiling  coated  with  batter  the  fat 

must  be  hot  enough  to  immediately  harden  the  surface  of  the  beignets 

or  fritters,  and  thus  prevent  it  soaking  in  and  making  them  greasy, 

and  yet  it  must  not  be  sufficiently  hot  to  brown  them  before  they  are 

and  well-cooked  {sec  Notes  on  Frying,  p.  412). 

Souffles  and  Souffl6-0melets.  Moulds  or  tins  in  which  souffles  are 
to  be  steamed  or  baked  should,  after  being  well  coated  with  cool 
clarified  butter,  have  a  band  of  3  or  4  folds  of  buttered  pape; 
round  their  rim  to  support  the  souffle  when  it  rises  above  the  level  of 
the  tin.  All  these  preparations  should  be  made  beforehand,  so  that 
the  mixture  may  not  ha  !ii;ht- 


9i6         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

ness.  The  success  of  souffles  and  souffle-omelets  depends  largety 
upon  the  whites  of  the  eggs  being  whisked  to  a  proper  degree  of 
stiffness.  When  the  eggs  are  fresh,  all  that  is  necessary  to  ensure 
this  is  careful  separation  from  the  yolks,  the  addition  of  a  pinch  of 
salt,  and  that  the  air  whipped  in  is  as  cold  as  possible.  Another 
important  factor  is  the  cooking.  Souffles  are  lighter  when  steamed 
than  when  baked,  but  great  care  is  needed  to  keep  the  water  surround- 
ing them  at  simmering  point  and  yet  prevent  it  actually  boiling. 
Souffles  should  be  served  as  soon  as  they  are  done,  for  if  over-cooked  or 
allowed  to  stand,  they  lose  some  of  their  lightness.  They  should  be 
baked  in  a  hot  oven,  and  served  as  quickly  as  possible  in  the  dish  or 
dishes  in  which  thev  are  cooked. 


Puddings 


1746. —ALMA  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  butter, 
2  ozs.  of  currants,  2  ozs.  of  sultanas,  4  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking 
powder,  the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Clean  and  pick  the  currants  and  sultanas.  Cream  the 
butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and  white,  then  beat  in  the  eggs, 
and  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Have  ready  a  well-buttered 
mould  or  basin,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  steam  for  2  hours.  Serve 
with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — z\  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1747.— ALMOND  CASTLES. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoon- 
ful  of  castor  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy, 
2  eggs. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  stir  in  the  yolks  of 
eggs,  the  milk  and  brandy,  and  beat  well.  Whip  the  whites  stiffly, 
and  lightly  add  them  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Put  into  well- 
buttered  dariol-moulds  or  small  cups,  and  either  bake  or  steam  gently 
for  30  or  35  minutes.  Serve  with  custard  sauce. 

Time. — From  45  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  /d.  to  8d.,  exclusive 
of  the  brandy.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

THE  HUSKS  OF  ALMONDS. — In  the  environs  of  Alica.ite,  the  husks  of  almonds  are  ground  to  a  powder 
and  are  used  as  an  ingredient  in  the  manufacture  of  common  soap,  the  large  quantity  of  alkaline 
principle  they  contain  rendering  them  suitable  for  this  purpose.  It  is  said  that  in  some  parts  of  France, 
where  almonds  are  extensively  grown,  horses  and  mules  are  fed  on  the  green  and  dry  husks;  but,  to  pre- 
vent any  evil  consequences  arising  from  this  practice,  the  husks  are  mixed  with  chopped  straw  or 
oats. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  917 

1748.— ALMOND  PUDDING,  BAKED.    (Fr.— Pouding 
aux  Amandes.) 

Ingredients. — i  penny  roll,  2  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  i  oz.  of  butter, 

1  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  i  pint  of  milk,  3  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon, 
a  good  pinch  of  cinnamon. 

Method. — Butter  a  piedish  and  line  the  bottom  with  thin,  buttered 
slices  of  roll.  Mix  the  almonds,  lemon  rind  and  cinnamon  together 
and  put  \  into  the  piedish.  Cover  with  thin  slices  of  roll,  then  add  the 
rest  of  the  almond  mixture,  and  again  cover  with  slices  of  roll.  Boil 
the  milk,  and  add  to  it  the  sugar;  beat  the  eggs  well,  then  pour  on  to 
them  the  hot,  NOT  BOILING,  milk,  and  stir  well.  Now  add  the  milk, 
etc.,  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients  in  the  piedish,  but  in  tablespoonfuls, 
to  avoid  floating  the  slices  of  roll.  Cover  the  pudding  and  let  it  stand 
for  £  an  hour,  then  bake  it  gently  for  about  an  hour. 

Time. —  if  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  od.  to  lod.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1749.— ALMOND     PUDDING,     BAKED.          (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  sugar, 

2  ozs.  of  cake  crumbs  (stale  sponge  cakes  serve),  i  pint  of  milk,  the 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  4  eggs,  putf  paste. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  add  the  eggs,  beating 
each  one  in  separately ,  the  cake  crumbs, lemon  rind  and  j  uice  and  almonds. 
Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  over  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  stirring  all  the  time, 
return  to  the  saucepan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens. 
Have  ready  a  piedish  with  the  edges  lined  with  paste,  pour  in  the  mix- 
ture, and  bake  gently  until  brown  and  set.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  2d., 
exclusive  of  the  paste.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

i  SVVKET  ALMOND.— The  kernels  of  the  sweet  almond  are  used  either  in  a  green  or  ripe  state 

and  as  an  article  for  dessert.     Into  cookery,  confectionery,  perfumery  and  medicine,  they  largely 

cuter,     and   in  don  •.-  should  always  be  used  in  preference  to  bitter  almonds,  as  the 

k  acid,  although  it  is  found  in  the  leaves,  flowers  and  bark  of  the 

>ung  and  green  they  are  preserved  in  sugar,  like  apricots.      They  furnish  almond  oil, 

t-ous  matter  .:ter  the  oil  is  expressed  for.ns  the  pate  d'amandes  of  per- 

vhilo  the  oil  forms  •  ^.ilydor,  macassar  oil,  and  many  other  articles  of  a  similar 

kind  vended  by  perfumers.     In  medicine  it  is  considered  a  nutritive,  laxative,  and  an  emollient. 

1750.— ALMOND       PUDDING,       BAKED      (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  ^  of  an 
oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy 
(milk  may  be  substituted),  2  eggs. 

Method.     Thoroughly   beat    the   eggs;   add    to    them    the   almonds, 

•n  and  1.;  11.      Melt  the  butter,  add  it  to  the 


9i8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into  a  buttered  piedish,  and  bake  for  about 
20  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  9d.  Sufficient 
for  3  persons. 

175  x. —ALMOND  PUDDINGS,  SMALL. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  ground  almonds,  2  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of 
castor  sugar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  2  ozs.  of  butter. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  stir  in  the  yolks  of 
eggs,  the  almonds,  and  the  cream.  Whip  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth, 
add  them  lightly  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into  buttered 
dariol  moulds  or  small  cups,  and  steam  or  bake  from  25  to  30  minutes. 
Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  <_)d.  to  iod.,  for  this  quantity. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1752.— ANGEL  PUDDING. 

The  above  name  is  sometimes  given  to  French  pancakes,  the  recipe 
for  which  is  given  on  p.  949. 

1753.— APPLE  AMBER  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 6  large  apples,  3  ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  3 
eggs,  i  lemon,  cherries,  strips  of  angelica,  short  paste,  or  puff  paste 
trimmings,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Line  the  edge  of  a  piedish  with  thin  strips  of  paste  about 
3  inches  wide,  and  decorate  the  edge  with  overlapping  leaves  or  small 
rounds  of  pastry,  which  must  be  securely  fixed  by  means  of  white  of 
egg.  Peel  and  slice  the  apples,  stew  them  gently  with  the  butter, 
sugar,  and  lemon-rind  until  tender,  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
add  the  yolks  of  eggs.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the  piedish,  bake  gently 
for  20  minutes,  then  pile  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs  on  the  top. 
Dredge  liberally  with  castor  sugar,  decorate  with  cherries  and  angelica, 
and  replace  in  the  oven  until  the  whites  of  eggs  harden  and  acquire 
a  little  colour.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — £  an  hour,  to  bake  the  pudding.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  3d., 
in  addition  to  cost  of  paste.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

1754.— APPLES,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — 6  apples,  i  white  of  egg,  castor  sugar,  jam  or  jelly. 

Method.— Pare  and  core  the  apples,  keeping  them  whole;  roll  up  an 
apple-paring  tightly,  and  place  it  in  the  centre  of  each  apple.  Brush 
over  with  white  of  egg,  and  put  aside  until  it  dries;  then  re-coat,  sprinkle 
with  castor  sugar,  put  the  apples  into  a  piedish,  cover  with  a  greased 


RECIPES  FOR  iri>PINV,S  919 

paper  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  tender.  Be  careful  not  to  over- 
cook, or  they  may  break.  When  done,  remove  the  apple-paring,  and 
fill  the  cavity  with  blackberry  or  black  currant  jelly,  blackberry  or 
raspberry  jam,  or  whatever  may  be  preferred:  a  small  piece  of  butter 
and  some  brown  sugar  is  liked  by  ir. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.,  without  the  jam. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

I755.--APPLE     CHARLOTTE.        (Fr.— Charlotte     de 
Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  good  cooking  apples,  4 ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  or 
to  taste,  i  oz.  of  butter,  the  rind  of  i  lemon.  For  lining  the  mould: 
thin  slices  of  bread,  oiled  butter. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  the  sugar  and  i  tablespoonful  of  water,  and  cook  until  tender. 
When  the  apples  are  reduced  to  a  soft  smooth  palp,  add  the  butter 
and  lemon-rind,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Meanwhile,  take  a  plain  souffl6 
mould,  and  cover  the  bottom  with  a  round  of  bread,  previous! 
in  quarters  and  dipped  into  the  melted  butter.  If  a  pretty  dish  is 
•I,  the  sides  of  the  mould  should  be  lined  with  rounds  of 

>rrnn,u<-<l  overlapping  each  other;  but  .is  ;  or  4  tiers 
may  be  required  this  method  occupies  considerable  time.  It  may  be 
more  quickly  lined  with  long  narrow  strips  the  size  of  Savoy  biscuits, 
these  may  also  overlap  each  other,  or  they  may  be  laid  flat  a. 
the  tin.  Each  piece  of  bread  must  be  dipped  into  the  oiled  butter 
before  being  used.  When  the  mould  put  in  the  apple  pulp, 

cover  the  top  with  a  round  of  bread,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
about  30  minutes. 

Time.— About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,   is.  to  is.  2d.       Sufflciei 
7   pers.  >• 

1756.— APPLE      CHARLOTTE.     (Another  Way.) 

(Fr. — Charlotte  de  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. —  i  ll>.  of  apples,  3  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  3  ozs.  of 
white  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  1  a  lemon  (rind  only  .  i 
tal>l< -spoonful  of  browned  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  thick  slices.     Grease  a 
i,  and  coat  it  thickly  with  browned  breadcrumbs  ;  mix  together 
the  suet  and  breadcrumbs,  and  grate  the  lemon-rind.      Fill  the  pie- 
dish  with  alter  rs  of  apple  and  mixed  suet  and  crumbs,  letting 
the  bottom  and  top  layers  be  rather  thick  ones  of  breadcrumbs  :    the 
lemon-rind  should  be  mixed  with   the  sugar  and  sprinkled  on  each 
Cover  with  a  doul>!--  \.\\\-r  of  greased  paper,  and  bake 
in  a    i                    oven   for  about    i{    hours.      When    ready,    loosen    the 
with  a  knife,  and  invert  on  to  a  hot  dish. 


920  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  /d.  or  8d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1 757.- APPLE    CHARLOTTE.     (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — Apples,  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  brown  sugar, 
i  lemon. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apple,  place  a  layer  on  the  bottom 
of  a  buttered  piedish,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  lemon-rind  and  lemon-juice, 
and  cover  with  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter.  Repeat  until  the  dish 
is  full,  letting  bread  form  the  top  layer.  Cover  with  a  greased  paper, 
bake  from  |  to  i  hour,  then  turn  out  of  the  dish  and  dredge  well 
with  castor  sugar. 

Time. — About  i  hour.    Average  Cost,  6d.  or  8d.,  for  one  of  medium  size. 

1758.— APPLE   DUMPLINGS,    BAKED. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  short  paste  (see  Pastry,  No.  1668,  or  1669),  5  or  6 
apples,  according  to  size,  i  tablespoonful  of  currants,  a  little  moist  sugar. 

Method. — Peel  and  core  the  apples  and  fill  the  centre  with  currants. 
Roll  out  the  paste  thinly,  and  cut  it  into  rounds  nearly  large  enough 
to  cover  the  apples.  Place  one  in  the  centre  of  each  round,  wet  the 
edges  of  the  paste,  and  press  gently  to  the  top  of  the  apple.  Put  them 
join  downwards  on  a  baking-sheet,  and  bake  them  20  to  30  minutes 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  When  nearly  done,  brush  lightly  over 
with  water,  sprinkle  over  with  moist  sugar,  and  return  to  the  oven  to 
finish  baking.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  /d.  to  pd.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

Uses  of  the  Apple. — This  well  known  fruit  forms  a  very  important  article  of  food.  It  is  much 
used  in  pies  and  puddings,  furnishes  several  delicacies,  such  as  sauces,  marmalades  and  jellies, 
and  is  much  esteemed  as  a  dessert  fruit.  When  flattened  in  the  form  of  round  cakes  and  baked  in 
ovens,  they  are  called  becfings  ;  and  large  quantities  are  annually  dried  in  the  sun  in  America  as  well 
as  in  Normandy,  and  stored  for  use  during  winter,  when  they  may  be  stewed  or  made  into  pies.  In 
a  roasted  state  they  are  remarkably  wholesome.  In  putrid  and  malignant  fevers,  when  used  with 
the  juice  of  lemons  and  currants,  they  are  considered  highly  efficacious. 

1759.— APPLE  DUMPLINGS,  BOILED. 

Ingredients. — %  of  a  Ib.  of  suet  paste  (No.  1670,  or  1671),  6  apples,  6 
cloves,  moist  sugar. 

Method. — Pare  and  core  the  apples,  fill  the  cavities  with  sugar,  and 
add  a  clove.  Roll  the  paste  and  cut  rounds  large  enough  to  rather 
more  than  £  cover  the  apples.  Place  one  on  each  round  of  paste, 
slightly  wet  the  edges,  and  press  them  gently  to  the  top  of  the  apples 
where  they  must  be  completely  joined.  Tie  each  dumpling  in  the 
corner  of  a  well-floured  pudding  cloth,  put  them  into  boiling  water, 
and  boil  gently  from  40  to  50  minutes. 

Time. — To  make  and  cook,  from  i|  to  ij-  hours.  Average  Cost,  pd. 
each.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  921 

1760.— APPLES,      LEXINGTON      STYLE. 

(Fr. — Pommes  a  la  Lexington.) 

Ingredients. — 6  sour  cooking  apples,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  castor 
sugar,  i  egg,  cake  crumbs,  ground  cinnamon,  preserved  pineapple  or 
pineapple  jam,  fruit,  syrup,  frying- fat. 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  steam  the  apples  until  half-cooked,  and  let 
them  become  cold.  Then  mix  the  flour  and  sugar  together,  roll  each 
appb  in  the  mixture,  brush  them  carefully  with  egg  and  coat  with  cake 
crumbs,  then  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Fill  the  centre  with 
finely-chopped  pineapple  or  pineapple  jam,  pour  hot  pineapple  syrup 
round  the  dish,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i|  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

1761.— APPLE    PUDDING,    BAKED.     (Fr.-Po tiding 
de  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — 6  sour  cooking  apples,  ^  a  pint  of  breadcrumbs,  2  or  3 
•poonfuls  siiu'.ir,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg. 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  slices,  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  sugar  and  2  or  3  tablespoon fuls  of  w.itor.  cook  until 
ir  in  the  butter  and  well-beaten  eg£.     Coat  the  botto.n 
and  sides  of  a  well-buttered  piedish  thickly  with  breadcrumbs,  add  the 
apple  pulp,  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  breadcrumbs,  put  . 
pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake  gently  for  about  $  of  an  i 
keepin-;  the  dish  covered  with  greased  paper  to  prevent  the  s  ; 
from  becoming  too  brown. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  <>d.  to  lod.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

CONSTITUENTS  OF  THE  APPLE.— All  apples  contain  sugar,  malic  acid,  or  the  acid  of  apples ;  mucilage, 

or  gum  ;  woody  fibre  and  water  ;  together  with  some  aroma,  on  which  their  peculiar  Savour  depends. 

Tin  h.ir.l  i.ul  kinds  are  unwholesome  if  eaten  raw ;  but  by  the  process  of  cooking,  a  great  deal  of 

x-d  and  converted  into  sugar.     The  sweet  and  mellow  kinds  form  a  valuable 

A  great  part  of  the  acid  mi  .•  i  -  converted  into  sugar  as  the  fruit  ripens,  and  even 

tur.il  process  termed  maturation  ;  but  when  apples  decay,  the  sugar  to 

•1  the  mucilage  becomes  mouldy  and  offensive.     Old  cheese  has  a 

;!-le  effect  in  improving  the  apple  when  eaten,  probably  from  the  volatile  alkali  or  ammonia 
of  the  choose  neutralizing  the  acid  of  the  apple. 

1762.— APPLE       PUDDING,      BAKED.          (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients.— 5  medium  sized  apples.  3  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  2 
t.iblespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  suet,  i  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs,  a  little 
nutmeg,  a  good  pinch  of  salt. 

Method.  -Make  a  batter  of  the  flour,  salt,  eggs  and  milk  (see  York- 
ship-  I'iul<;  :<>3o).  Pare  the  apples,  cut  them  into  quarters  and 
••<•  the  «(,;  them  in  a  pi.-<lMi,  sprinkle  on  the  suet,  pour 


922  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

in  the  batter,  grate  a  little  nutmeg  on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven  for  i  hour.     Serve  with  sugar. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  pd.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

To  PRESERVE  APPLES. — The  best  mode  of  preserving  apples  is  to  carry  them  at  once  to  the 
fruit  room,  where  they  should  be  put  upon  shelves  covered  with  white  paper,  after  gently  wiping 
each.  The  room  should  be  dry  and  well  aired,  but  should  not  admit  the  sun.  The  finer  and 
larger  kinds  of  fruit  should  not  be  allowed  to  touch  each  other,  but  should  be  kept  separate.  For 
this  purpose,  a  number  of  shallow  trays  should  be  provided,  supported  by  racks  or  stands  above 
each  other.  In  very  cold  frosty  weather  the  room  should  be  warmed. 

1763.— APPLE   PUDDING,    BOILED.      (Fr.—  Pouding 
de  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — 12  ozs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  suet,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  2  Ibs.  of  apples,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  6  cloves,  if 
liked. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  rather  thick  slices.  Make  the 
paste  as  directed  in  Recipe  No.  1670,  or  167 1.  Gut  off  rather  more  than  a 
%  of  the  paste  for  the  lid,  roll  out  the  remainder,  and  with  it  line  the 
basin,  previously  well  greased.  Put  in  half  the  fruit,  then  the  sugar, 
intersperse  the  cloves,  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  fruit  and  add 
|  gill  cold  water.  Roll  out  the  rest  of  the  pastry  to  the  size  of  the  top 
of  the  basin,  moisten  the  edges  slightly,  and  join  them  carefully  to  the 
edges  of  the  pastry  lining  the  basin.  If  the  pudding  is  to  be  boiled, 
cover  the  top  with  a  well-floured  cloth;  if  steamed,  2  folds  of  greased 
paper  may  be  used.  Cook  from  2%  to  3  hours. 

Time. — 3  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons. 

1764.— APPLE  PUDDING,  BOILED. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  bread-crumbs,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  suet  (finely- 
chopped),  £•  of  a  Ib.  of  apples,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  moist  sugar,  2  eggs,  £•  of  a  pint 
of  milk,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg. 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  chop  the  apples  coarsely.  Mix  all  the  dry 
ingredients  together,  add  the  eggs,  previously  beaten,  and  the  milk, 
and  mix  well.  Let  the  mixture  stand  i  hour  for  the  bread  to  soak, 
then  if  not  sufficiently  moist  for  the  mixture  to  drop  readily  from  the 
spoon,  add  a  little  more  milk.  Pour  into  a  well-greased  basin,  and  steam 
2  hours.  Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — Altogether,  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  pd.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

1765.-— APPLES  AND  RICE.     (Fr.  Pommes  au  Riz.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  apples,  i£  pints  of  milk,  2  tablespoonsful  of  rice, 
i  heaped  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter,  lemon-rind  and  other 
flavouring,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  raspberry  jam,  or  sugar  and  butter. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  923 

Method. — Wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  the  salt,  leraon- 
riml  and  milk,  simmer  until  the  greater  part  of  the  milk  is  absorbed 
and  the  rice  becomes  tender,  then  stir  in  the  butter  and  sugar,  and 
remove  the  lemon -rind.  Peel  and  core  the  apples,  place  them  in  a. 
piedish,  fill  the  cavities  with  raspberry  jam  or  a  little  butter  and 
sugar.  Fill  the  spaces  between  the  apples  with  rice,  and  bake  in  a  slow 
oven  until  the  apples  are  tender,  but  not  broken. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  Sd.  to  lod.  Sufficient  for  4  or 
5  persons. 

1766.  -APPLES  AND  SAGO.   (Fr.— Pommes  au  Sagou.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  6  cooking  apples,  i  pint  of  water,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar,   i   tablespoonful   of   fine  sago,  the  rind  and  juice  of  £  a 
lemon,  a  few  drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal. 

Method. — Peel  and  core  the  apples,  keeping  them  whole.     Boil  the 
sprinkle  in  the  sago,  stir  and  cook  until  clear.     Now  add  the 
appk-s,  sugar,  lemon-rind  and  juice,  and  simmer  very  gently  until  the 
are  tender;  then  remove  them,  place  them  in  a  d--«-p  dish,  add 
A  drops  of  cochineal  to  p,  and  pour  it  over  the  appl 

Time.— From  40  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

1767.-  APPLE  SNOWBALLS.  (Fr.— Pommes  a  la  Neige. 

Ingredients. — Apples.     To  each  apple  allow   i    tabU-sp<>,.nful   oi 
%  a  pint  of  milk,  or  milk  and  water  mixed,  a  clove,  i  teaspoonful  of  moist 

Method.     Simmer  the  rice  in  the  milk  until  all  the  milk  i- 

1  pinch  of  salt  should  be  added  to  the  rice  and  milk,  and.  if  lik«Ml. 
i    table-spoonful  of  sugar  to  every  pint  of  milk).     Pare  and  core  the 
keeping  them  whole,  till  the  centre  of  each  with  sugar,  and  put 
in  a  clove,  if  liked.  e,  and  tie  each  ball  in  the  < 

•nlding  cloth.      Put  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  gently  from  45  to 

with  sugar. 

Time.-  About   2   hours.     Average  Cost,    lUl.    to   2d.  each.      Allow  i 
to  each  p-  i 

1768.  -APPLES    WITH    CUSTARD    SAUCE. 

Ingredients.     '  jam.      For  the  custard:    ».   a  pint  of 

milk,  j  \-olk->  i  white  of  •  -poonfnl  of  sugar. 

Method.  1  core  the  apples,  keeping  them  whole,  roll  up  an 

iitlv.  and  plat  r  it  in  th<-  <  cntre  of  each  applr.       Tut  them 

tie  bottom  of  the  dish  with  cold 

place  on  the  top  an  inverted  dish  or  piedish  to  keep  in  the  steam, 


924        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  bake  gently  until  tender.  Lift  carefully  on  to  a  hot  dish,  remove 
the  apple  parings,  fill  the  cavity  with  jam,  and  pour  the  custard  round. 
(See  Custard  Sauce,  No.  332.) 

Time. — About  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.  or  9d.     Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 


1769.— APPLE  SNOW.     (Fr.—  Pommes  a  la  Neige.) 

Ingredients. — 6  sour  cooking  apples,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  or  to  taste, 
yolks  of  4  eggs,  2  whites  of  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  vanilla 
pod,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream. 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
the  lemon-rind,  2  ozs.  of  sugar  and  a  little  water.  Cook  until  tender, 
rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  let  the  puree  cool,  then  stir  in  the  cream. 
Simmer  the  milk  and  vanilla  pod  together  until  sufficiently  flavoured, 
then  remove  the  pod  (dry  it  and  place  in  castor  sugar  for  future  use), 
add  sugar  to  taste,  stir  in  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  cook  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken,  stirring  meanwhile.  Now  put 
the  apple  puree  into  a  buttered  piedish,  pour  the  custard  on  the 
top,  and  cover  with  the  stiffly  whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Dredge  liberally 
with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  surface  hardens 
and  acquires  a  little  colour.  Serve  hot  or  cold.  Time. — About  i 
hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  id.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1770.— APRICOT  PUDDING,  BAKED.    (Fr.—  Pouding 
d'Abricots.) 

Ingredients. — i  tin  or  bottle  of  apricots,  f  of  a  pint  of  fresh  bread- 
crumbs, 3 tablespoon fuls  of  moist  sugar,  i  pint  of  milk,  3  eggs,  the  juice  of 
i  lemon,  and,  if  liked,  a  glass  of  sherry,  pastry  No.  1667,  or  No.  1668. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  on  the  breadcrumbs,  and  let  them  soak 
for  \  an  hour.  Rub  the  apricots  through  a  hair  sieve,  add  to  them 
the  lemon-juice,  sugar,  sherry,  3  yolks  and  i  white  of  egg,  and  mix 
well  together.  Have  ready  a  piedish  with  the  edges  lined,  as  directed 
in  the  recipe  for  Apple  Amber,  No.  1676,  add  the  milk  and  bread- 
crumbs to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into  the  piedish,  and  bake 
in  a  steady  oven  until  set.  Whip  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  to 
them  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  and  when  the  pastry  is  three- 
quarters  baked,  and  the  apricot  mixture  set,  pile  them  on  the  top 
of  the  pudding.  The  surface  should  be  liberally  sprinkled  with 
castor  sugar;  and  it  may  also  be  decorated  with  strips  of  crystallized 
apricots.  Return  to  the  oven,  and  bake  until  the  meringue  acquires 
a  pale  fawn  colour.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — From  i£  to  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.,  without 
the  sherry.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR   Pl'DDIMiS 
1771.— ARROWROOT  PUDDING,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  milk,  i  tablcspoonful  of  arrowroot,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  castor  sugar,  3  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the 
remainder  and  add  it  to  the  arrowroot,  stirring  all  the  time.  Return 
to  the  saucepan  and  boil  gently  until  it  thickens,  then  cool  slightly. 
Add  the  sugar,  yolks  of  eggs,  previously  well  beaten,  and  stir  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  for  2  or  3  minutes.  Whip  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth, 
lightly  add  them  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into  a  well-buttered 
piedish,  and  bake  slowly  for  about  i  an  hour. 

Time.— About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1772.— ARROWROOT  PUDDING,  STEAMED. 

Ingredients. —  i   tablespoonful  of  arrowroot,  i   tablespoon ful  of  moist 

i .  i  pint  of  milk,  the  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  2  eggs. 
Method.     Mix    the   arrowroot   smoothly   with    a    little   of   the   milk, 
o  remainder,  and  pour  it  over  the  arrowroot,  stirring  all  the  time, 
rn  to  the  sau«  r  and  cook  over  the  fire  until  thick,  then 

cool  slightly,  and  add  the  sugar,  lemon-rind  and  e. 

into   a  buttered   mould  or    basin,  and   steam    . 
i  I  to  i  \  hours.     Serve  with  custard,  \\ine,  or  any  other  suitable 
sauce. 

Time. — From  ij  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  $d.  to  6d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 

1773.     AUSTRIAN     PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding    a 

1' Austrichienne. ) 

Ingredients.     \  a  pint  of  raspberries,  moist  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  cakecn 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  2  ozs.  ot 

lespoonful  of  cream,  ^  oz.  butt 

Method. —  Put  the  raspberries  and  i  tablespoonful  of  moist  sugar 
into  a  jar  placed  in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water,  and  half  cook 
them.  Meanwhile  work  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  castor  sugar 
together  in  a  basin  until  thick  and  creamy,  then  add  the  cakecrumbs, 
pr«»un«:  ream,  oiled  butter,  and  lastly  the  stiffly  w! 

whites  of  eggs.     When  the  raspbt  ready,  place  them  \\ith  their 

fireproof  china  souffle  dish,  cover  with  the  pr« 
halved  glace  cherries,  and  bake  in  a  mo*1 
:t   |   an   hour.     Serve   hot.     K 

Time.— From  i±  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  gd.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons. 


926  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1774.— BABA  WITH   RUM  SYRUP.     (Fr.—  Baba  au 
Rhum.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  \  an  oz.  of  yeast,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
4  ozs.  of  butter,  \\  ozs.  of  currants  cleaned  and  picked,  £  of  a  pint  of 
milk,  a  good  pinch  of  salt.  For  the  syrup:  f  of  a  pint  of  water,  2  ozs. 
of  loaf  sugar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot  jam,  i  wine-glassful  of  rum. 

Method. — Dry  the  flour  thoroughly,  sieve  4  ozs.  of  it  into  a  warm,  dry 
basin,  add  the  salt,  and  make  a  well  in  the  centre.  Mix  the  yeast 
smoothly  with  a  little  warm  milk,  add  it  to  the  flour,  knead  the  prepara- 
tion into  a  smooth  dough,  then  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  let  it  rise  in  a 
warm  place.  Sieve  the  remainder  of  the  flour  into  a  large  basin,  make 
a  well  in  the  centre,  and  put  in  the  salt,  sugar,  warmed  butter,  eggs, 
and  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  beat  with  the  hand  for  15  minutes, 
and  cover  with  a  cloth.  When  the  dough  has  risen  to  twice  its  original 
size,  mix  the  contents  of  the  2  basins  together,  add  the  currants,  and 
knead  lightly  for  15  minutes.  Have  ready  i  large  or  8  small  well- 
buttered  moulds  with  straight  sides,  sprinkle  the  bottom  and  sides  with 
a  few  currants,  half  fill  with  dough,  stand  near  the  fire  until  it  rises  nearly 
to  the  top  of  the  mould,  then  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  When 
done,  turn  on  to  a  sieve,  and  baste  well  with  rum  syrup,  then  place 
in  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  syrup  over,  and  serve  hot.  To  make  the  syrup : 
boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  until  considerably  reduced,  then  add 
the  jam,  boil  for  10  minutes,  strain,  return  to  the  stewpan,  put  in  the 
rum,  bring  to  boiling  point,  and  use  as  directed. 

Time.— About  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

I775._BABAS  WITH  KIRSCH.  (Fr.— Babas    au 

Kirsch.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  fine  flour,  f  ofanoz.  of  yeast,  8  to  9  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  tablespoonful  of  currants  cleaned,  i  tablespoonful  of  sultanas  cleaned, 
i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  5  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  the  lemon, 
salt.  For  the  syrup:  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  2  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  kirsch- 
wasser  to  flavour. 

Method. — Dry  and  sieve  the  flour  into  a  large  basin,  make  a  well  in  the 
centre,  and  add  the  yeast  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little  tepid  water. 
Let  it  stand  for  about  \  an  hour,  then  add  the  well-creamed  butter, 
currants,  sultanas,  sugar,  lemon-rind,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and  the 
eggs.  Beat  the  mixture  until  smooth,  then  cover  with  a  cloth,  and 
let  it  stand  until  it  rises  to  nearly  twice  its  original  size.  Have  ready 
some  buttered  timbale  moulds,  half  fill  them  with  the  preparation, 
let  them  stand  until  it  rises  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  moulds,  and  bake 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Meanwhile  boil  the  sugar  and  water  until 
the  syrup  is  formed,  flavour  with  kirschwasser,  pour  it  over  the  babas, 
or  dip  them  in  it  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i\  to  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  2S.  to  2S.  3d.  Suffi- 
cient for  8  or  10  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  927 

1776.— BACHELOR'S    PUDDING.         (Fr.~ Pouding  a 
la  Gargon.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  4  ozs.  of  currants  cleaned  and 
picked,  4  ozs.  of  apples  weighed  after  being  pared  and  cored,  2  ozs.  of 
sugar,  3  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  i  small  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  nutmeg,  salt. 

Method. — Chop  the  apples  coarsely,  add  to  them  the  breadcrumbs, 
currants,  sugar,  lemon-rind,  a  good  pinch  each  of  nutmeg  and  salt, 
mix  well  together,  then  stir  in  the  well-beaten  eggs.  Let  the  mixture 
stand  for  £  an  hour,  then  stir  in  the  baking-powder,  add  more  milk 
it  the  mixture  is  at  all  stiff,  and  turn  into  a  \\  r  11  -r  eased  basin.  " 
or  boil  about  3  hours,  and  serve  with  sweet  melted  butivr  sauce 

Time.— Altogether,  about  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  Sd     Sufficient  for 

1777.- BACHELOR'S  PUDDING.    (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  4  ozs.  of 
ins,  stoned,  2  ozs.  of  sultan  --d  and  picked, 

5,  i  teaspoonful  of  t >ak ing-powder,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk. 
Method.     Mix  all  the  dl  .  add  the  milk  and  the 

previously  v.  ell.     Pfet  into  a  well  greas 

and  bake  geinly  i«»r  about  i|  hours.      When  ready,  turn  out  of  the  dish, 
dredge  well  \\ith  sugar    and  serve  hot. 

Time. — From  if  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  about  8d.     Sufflcier 
r  6  persons. 

1778.— BAKEWELL  PUDDING.     (Sec  Bakewell  Tart, 
No.    1684. 

1779.— BANANA    PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding    de 

Bananes.) 

Ingredients.—  2  bananas,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of 

butter,  \  a  gill  of  c :  milk,  3  eggs. 

Method. — Cream  the  br  ,  U-at  in 

of  the  :ir   in    the  flour,  and  add  ;  n  or  milk, 

and  the  bananas  thinly  sliced.      Whip  the  whites  of  the  i  g^s  to 
froth,  add  them  tightly  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredi  i  pour  the 

mixture  into  i  larjje  or  several  small  well-buttered  moulds.      Steam1  or 

ge  pudding  from  i  to    i  J    hours,  or  small  ones  from  30 
minu: 

Time.      I-'nun  \\  to  i^  hours.      Average  Cost,  i/d.     Sufllcient  for  5 


928  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1780.— BARONESS  PUDDING.          (Fr.— Pouding  a  la 
Baronne.) 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  f  of  a 
Ib.  of  raisins  (stoned),  %  a  pint  of  milk,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add  the  milk  and  stir 
well.  Put  into  a  well-greased  basin,  and  boil  or  steam  for  about  3 
hours.  Serve  with  any  suitable  sweet  sauce,  or  with  a  little  sugar. 

Time. — About  3f-  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  Sufficient  for  8  or 
9  persons.  ^ 

1781.— BATTER  PUDDING,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs,  4  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
salt,  dripping. 

Method. — Put  ttie  flour  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt  into  a  basin,  make 
a  well  in  the  centre,  break  in  the  eggs,  stir,  gradually  mixing  in  the  flour 
from  the  sides,  and  add  milk  by  degrees  until  a  thick,  smooth  batter 
is  formed.  Now  beat  well  for  10  minutes,  then  add  the  remainder  of  the 
milk,  cover,  and  let  it  stand  for  at  least  i  hour.  When  ready  to  use, 
put  a  tablespoonful  of  dripping  into  a  piedish,  and  while  it  is  heating 
give  the  batter  another  good  beating.  Pour  into  the  dish,  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven  for  about  35  minutes.  Serve  with  sugar,  butter  and 
sugar,  jam  or  stewed  fruit. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  4^d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

Note. — The  batter  may  also  be  baked  in  small  cups  or  on  saucers  (buttere  1). 
It  may  be  varied  by  the  addition  of  any  kind  of  fresh  or  tinned  fruit,  or 
raisins,  currants,  candied  peel,  etc. 


1782.— BATTER  PUDDING,  BOILED. 

Ingredients. — £  to  i  pint  of  milk,  6  ozs.  of  flour,  4  eggs,  a  good  pinch  of 
salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour  and  salt  together,  and  make  a  well  in  the 
centre  of  the  flour.  Beat  the  eggs  thoroughly,  strain  them  into  the 
flour,  and  stir  gently  so  that  the  flour  becomes  gradually  incorporated. 
Add  the  milk  a  little  at  a  time  until  the  batter  has  the  consistency 
of  thick  cream,  then  cover,  and  let  it  stand  for  i  hour.  When  ready, 
pour  into  a  well-buttered  basin,  cover  with  a  scalded,  well-floured 
cloth,  and  boil  for  about  i\-  hours. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

Note. — Boiled  batter  puddings  maybe  varied  by  the  addition  of  either  fresh 
or  dried  fruits.  They  should  be  placed  in  the  basin,  and  the  batter  poured 
over  them. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS 

1783.— BERLIN  PUDDING.     (Fr.— Pouding  a  la  Ber- 
linoise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
2  ozs.  of  almonds,  4  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk  (rather  less),  salt. 

Method. — Blanch,  peel  and  shred  the  almonds  finely,  then  dry  them 

in  a  cool  oven.     Dry  and  sieve  the  flour,  add  to  it  about  half  the  milk, 

and  stir  vigorously  until  a  smooth  batter  is  formed.     Put  the  remainder 

of  the  milk  and  the  butter  into  a  stewpun,  when  boiling,  add  the  sugar, 

batter,  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  thk 

Now  lot  it  cool  slightly,  then  beat  in  each  yolk  of  egg  separately,  stir 

in  the  almonds,  and  lastly  add  the  stitily  whipped  whites  of  eggs.     Turn 

the  preparation  into  i  large  or  8  small  well-buttered  moulds,  and  steam 

Iding  fron  -r  about  40  minutes. 

•  h  custard  sauce  or  other  suit 

Time. — From  2  to  2\  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.      Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 

1784.— BETSY  PUDDING. 

Ingredients,     i  Ib.  •  :  oppcd  suet,  2  ozs. 

pints  oi  milk,  8  tablespoonfuls  of  jam  or  s 
fruit. 

Method. — Boil  .  pour  it  over  the  bread,  cover,  and  I 

an  hour,  then  beat  out   the  lumps  with  a  fork.     Add  the 

•  ten  eggs,  and  mix  well  together.  •  >f  this 

preparation  in  the  bottom  of  a  greased  piedish,  cover  thickly  wit: 
or  stewed  fruit,  add  another  layer  of  bread,  etc.,  and  repeat  until  the 
dish  is  full,  covering  the  last  addition  of  jam  or  fruit  rather  thickly 
with  the  preparation.     Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  i  hour,  and 
hot 

Time. — Altogether,  about  2  hours.     Average  Cost,   is.   id.     Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

1785.— BLACK-CAP  PUDDING. 

Ingredients.—  4  ozs.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  currants,  cleaned 
and  picked,  I  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Put  the  flour  and  salt  i.  in,  make  a.  well  in  the  centre 

of  the  flour,  break  in  the  egg,  add  the  milk  !  stir, 

\'i  the  flour  from  the  side-;.     When  about  half  the 
milk  ':.  ,  then  add  tl, 

did  curnu 
Mi  I  it  will  be  lighter  if  allowed  |  with 

;  butler. 
Time.— 2  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  ^1.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  j 

H  H 


930  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1786.— BRANDY  PUDDING.  (Fr.—  Poudingau  Cognac.) 

Ingredients. —  i  wineglassful  of  brandy,  %  a  pint  of  cream,  £  a  pint  of 
milk,  4  eggs,  a  stale  French  roll,  2  ozs.  of  macaroons  or  ratafias,  4  ozs. 
of  sugar,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-rind,  grated  nutmeg,  glace 
cherries. 

Method. — Decorate  a  well-buttered  mould  with  halved  cherries,  and 
afterwards  line  it  with  thin  slices  of  roll.  About  \  fill  the  mould  with 
alternate  layers  of  macaroons  and  sliced  roll,  adding  a  few  cherries, 
the  brandy,  and  a  little  sugar.  Mix  the  eggs,  cream,  and  milk,  add 
the  sugar,  lemon-rind,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  and  pour  the  whole  into 
the  mould.  Let  it  stand  for  i  hour,  then  steam  it  gently  for  i£  hours, 
and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — 1|-  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons. 

1787.— BREAD  PUDDING,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  stale  bread,  4  ozs.  of  raisins  or  currants,  cleaned 
and  picked,  2  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  egg,  a  little 
milk,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg. 

Method. — Break  the  bread  into  small  pieces,  cover  them  with  cold 
water,  soak  for  -J-  an  hour,  then  strain  and  squeeze  dry.  Beat  out 
all  the  lumps  with  a  fork,  and  stir  in  the  sugar,,  suet,  raisins,  nutmeg, 
and  mix  well.  Add  the  egg,  previously  beaten,  and  as  much  milk  as 
is  necessary  to  make  the  mixture  moist  enough  to  drop  readily  from 
the  spoon.  Pour  into  a  greased  piedish  and  bake  gently  for  about  i 
hour.  When  done,  turn  out  on  to  a  hot  dish,  and  dredge  well  with 
sugar. 

Time. — if  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  5d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1788.— BREAD  PUDDING,  BOILED. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  stale  bread,  6  ozs.  of  raisins  or  currants,  cleaned 
and  picked,  3  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  peel, 
i  egg,  J  of  a  pint  of  milk,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg. 

Method. — Break  the  bread  into  small  pieces,  cover  with  cold  water, 
soak  for  |  an  hour,  then  strain  and  squeeze  dry.  Beat  out  all  the  lumps 
with  a  fork,  add  the  raisins,  suet,  sugar,  peel  and  nutmeg,  and  mix 
well.  Beat  the  egg,  add  to  it  the  milk,  and  stir  into  the  rest  of  the. 
ingredients.  Put  into  a  greased  basin,  and  steam  or  boil  for  2  hours. 
Serve  with  a  sweet  sauce,  if  liked. 

Time.  —  About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  931 

1789.— BREAD    AND    BUTTER    PUDDINGS, 
BAKED. 

Ingredients. — 5  or  (>  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  i  pint  of  milk, 
!>pi'onful  of  sugar,  sultanas,  currants  or  candied  lemon, 
if  liked. 

Method.-  Cut  off  the  crust  and  divide  each  slice  of  bread  into  4 
squares,  arrange  them  in  layers  in  a  \vell-buttered  piedish.  and  sprinkle 
each  layer  with  sultanas  or  whatever  is  being  used.  Beat  the  eggs, 
add  the  sugar,  stir  until  dissolved,  then  mix  in  the  milk  and  pour  gently 
over  the  bread,  which  should  only  half  till  the  di^h.  Let  it  stand 
at  least  i  hour  for  the  bread  to  soak,  then  bake  in  a  moderately  cool 
oven  for  nearly  i  hour. 

Time. — 2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1790.— BREAD         AND          BUTTER          PUDDING, 
STEAMED. 

Ingredients. — 5  or  6  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  J  of  a  pint  of  milk, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  sugar,  2  eggs,  sultanas,  raisins,  currants,  or  candied 
peel,  if  li! 

Method. — Butter  a  pudding  basin,  sprinkle  it  with  currants,  or  chopped 
peel,  or  arrange  -r  sultanas  in  some  simple  design  on  the  bottom 

and  sides  of  the  basin.  Cut  each  slice  of  bread  into  4  pii-ces.  place  them 
in  layers,  each  layer  being  sprinkled  with  fruit  and  a  little  finely- 
chopped  candied  peel.  Beat  the  eggs  add  the  milk  and  the  sugar, 
stir  until  the  sugar  is  di  :hen  pour  slowly  over  the  bread,  etc. 

Let  it  stand  at  least   i  hour,   if  convenient   for  2  hours,  before  being 
cooked.     Cover  the  top  with  a  grcaMtl  paper,  and  steam  slowl 
aboat  i  hour.     Serve  with  a  sweet  sauce  or  fruit  syrup. 

Time. — To  make,  about  20  minutes  ;  alt<  ro.n  2|  to  3  hours. 

Average  Cost,  5U1.  without  the  bread.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1791.— BROWN    BREAD    PUDDING.    (Fr.— Pouding 
au  pain  noir.) 

Ingredients. — 6   ozs   of   brown    bread,   weighed   after   being     p. 
throu  ,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  j  o/s.  of  lineh 

mixed  candied  peel,  ;  ,  -ITS.  -\  a  pint  of  milk,  i  glass  of  sherry,  cinnamon, 
QBtHK 

Method.  Pass  the  brown  bread  through  a  tine  wire  sieve.  Boil  the 
milk,  pour  it  over  the  breadcrumbs,  and  let  them  soak  for  not  less  than 
15  nimut'  m  the  butter  i;  when  thick  and 

terry, 

and  a  good  pinch  each  of  cinnamon,  nutmeg  and  salt.      Put  the  mixture 


932         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

into  a  well-greased  mould  or  basin,  and  steam  for  2  hours.     Serve  with 
custard  or  wine  sauce. 

Time. — 2f-  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1792.— BROWN     BREAD     PUDDING.  (Another 

Method.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  crumbled  brown  bread,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped 
suet,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  each  of  raisins  and  sultanas,  cleaned  and 
picked,  2  eggs,  a  little  milk,  a  good  pinch  each  of  nutmeg,  cinnamon 
and  salt. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together.  Beat  the  eggs 
thoroughly,  stir  them  into  the  mixture,  add  milk  until  all  the  ingredients 
are  moistened,  then  cover  and  let  stand  for  |-  an  hour  or  longer,  to 
allow  the  bread  to  soak.  Have  ready  a  well-greased  mould  or  basin; 
beat  the  mixture,  add  a  little  more  milk  if  necessary,  pour  into  the 
mould,  and  steam  or  boil  for  3^  hours. 

Time. — About  4  .hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  9d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1793.— BROWN  BREAD  AND  CHESTNUT  PUD- 
DING. (Fr. — Pouding  au  pain  noir  et 
Matrons.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  chestnuts,  \  a  Ib.  of  brown  bread  (crumbled  and 
weighed  afterwards),  £  of  a  Ib.  of  sultanas,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  brown  sugar, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  blanched  and  coarsely-chopped 
almonds,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs. 

Method. — Clean  and  pick  the  sultanas;  rub  the  brown  bread  through 
a  wire  sieve.  Bake  or  roast  the  chestnuts  for  about  20  minutes,  remove 
both  skins,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  the  milk,  simmer  until 
tender,  then  beat  well,  and  add  the  butter  and  sugar.  Mix  the  crumbled 
brown  bread,  sultanas  and  almonds  together,  add  the  chestnut  puree, 
the  eggs,  previously  beaten,  and  mix  well.  Pour  into  a  buttered  mould 
or  basin,  and  steam  for  2^  to  3  hours. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or 
8  persons. 

1794.— BURNT  CREAM.       (Fr.— Creme  Brulee.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  cream,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
creme  de  riz  or  cornflour,  6  yolks  of  eggs,  i£  ozs.  of  vanilla  sugar, 
ground  cinnamon. 

Method. — Mix  the  creme  de  riz  or  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little 
milk,  and  put  the  remainder,  with  the  cream  and  i  oz.  of  vanilla  sugar, 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  933 

into  a  stewpan.  When  boiling,  add  the  cr£me  de  riz,  cook  for  2  or  3 
minutes,  cool  slightly,  then  put  in  the  well-beaten  yolks  ot 
whisk  briskly  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken,  but  do  not 
allow  the  mixture  to  boil.  Pour  the  preparation  into  a  well-buttered 
souffle  dish,  sprinkle  the  surface  lightly  with  cinnamon,  and  thickly 
with  vanilla  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  10  or  15  minutes. 
The  top  must  be  well-browned,  and  when  th--  nough 

for  the  purpose,  the  dish  should  be  held  under  a  salamander  before 
serving. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  Oil.     Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

I795-— CABINET       PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding 

Cabinet.) 

Ingredients. — Stale  sponge  cake  or  Savoy  biscuits,  $  of  a  pint  of  milk, 
^  and  2  whites  of  eggs,  6  or  8  ratafia  biscuits,  i  tablespoon! ul  of 
castor  sugar,  a  .few  drops  of  vanilla,  a  few  cherries,  and  a  little  angelica 
to  ornament  the  mould. 

Method. —  Butter  a  mould  with  plain  straight  sides,  ornament   the 
ips  of  angelica  and  cherries  cut  in  halves,  and  line  the  sides 
with  ;i  rips  of  sponge  cake  or  Savoy  biscuits.    Break  the  trim- 

mings of  the  cake  or  3  or  4  biscuits  into  small  pieces,  put  them,  to 

lie  ratafias,  into  the  mould.    Beat  the  eggs,  add  to  them  the  sugar, 
flavouring  and  milk,  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  pour  the  cus- 
tard |j  o  the  mould.  tercel  paper,  and 
gently   lor  nearly    i    hour. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
pers< 

1796.— CABINET  PUDDING,  PLAIN. 

Ingredients. — 5  or  6  thin  slices  of  bread  (  \  i  pint  of  milk,  2 

eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  j  t.ilU  spoonfuls  of  raisins,  a  few  drops 

or  other  flavou- 

Method. — Cut  ns  in  hah  ie  stones.     Cut  the 

crusts  off  the  bread,  divide  each  slice  into  .  taper  one 

end  and  trim  to  a  uniform  1  i  lave  read  basin, 

te  with  raisins,  and  line  with  strips  of  bread.     Beat  the  eggs,  add 
rn  the  sugar,  milk  and  flavouring,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  \ 
solved.     Cut  all  the  bread -trimming  into  dice,  put  them  into  the  pre- 
basin,  pour  on  the  custard,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  steam 
gently  for  i  hour. 

Time.— i  £  hours.     Average  Cost,   71!.,  without   the  bread.     Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

o  of  bread,    savoy,  finger   biscuits,  or  stale  cake  may  l'« 
.  used  for  ing. 


934  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1797.— CANADIAN  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 6  tablespoonfuls  of  Indian  meal,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
castor  sugar,  4  eggs,  the  thin  rind  of  i  small  lemon,  i  quart  of  milk, 
raisins  stoned  and  halved. 

Method. — Mix  the  meal  with  a  little  cold  milk,  infuse  the  lemon-rind 
in  the  remainder  for  1 5  minutes,  then  strain  the  boiling  milk  over  the 
meal.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  add  the  sugar,  and  simmer  gently  for 
10  minutes.  When  cool,  add  the  well-beaten  eggs,  and  pour  the  mix- 
ture into  a  mquld  or  basin  previously  well  buttered  and  decorated  with 
raisins.  Steam  for  2.\  hours,  then  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1798.— CANARY  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  eggs, 
i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  milk. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and  smooth, 
and  add  each  egg,  separately.  Beat  well,  then  stir  in  the  flour  and 
baking-powder  as  lightly  as  possible,  and  add  milk  gradually  until  the 
mixture  drops  readily  from  the  spoon.  Pour  into  a  well-buttered 
mould,  steam  for  about  i  hour,  and  serve  with  jam  or  custard  sauce. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  per- 
sons. 

1799.— CANNELL  PUDDING.         (Fr.— Pouding    a    la 
Cannelle.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  3  ozs.  of 
crumbled  Savoy  biscuits  or  Madeira  cake,  i-J-  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of 
flour,  4  eggs,  %  a  pint  of  milk,  a  good  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  i  inch 
of  cinnamon. 

Method. — Boil  up  the  milk,  infuse  the  cinnamon  in  it  for  20  minutes, 
and  strain  it  over  the  cake  crumbs.  Beat  the  butter  and  the  sugar 
together  until  creamy,  add  the  yolks  of  egg  separately,  and  stir  in  the 
almonds  and  nutmeg.  Whisk  the  whites  of  eggs  stiffly,  and  stir  them 
lightly  in,  sprinkling  the  flour  in  gradually  meanwhile.  Have  ready  a 
mould,  well  buttered  and  lightly  sprinkled  with  breadcrumbs,  put 
in  the  mixture,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  £  of  an  hour,  then  turn  out 
and  serve  with  hot  raspberry  syrup. 

Time. —  ij  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1 800.— CARAMEL      PUDDING.  (Fr.—Poudmg 

au  Caramel.) 

Ingredients. — For  the  caramel:  2  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cold  water.  For  the  custard:  |  a  pint  of  milk,  4  yolks  and  2  whites  of 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  935 

eggs,  i  tablcspooniul  of  castor  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  or  other 
flavouring. 

Method. — Boil  the  loaf  sugar  and  cold  water  together  until  the  liquid 
acquires  a  light-brown  colour,  then  pour  it  into  a  charlotte  or  plain 
timbale  mould,  and  turn  the  mould  slowly  round  and  round  until  every 
part  of  it  is  coated  with  the  caramel.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  to  them  the 
sugar,  flavouring  and  milk,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Strain 
the  custard  into  the  mould,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  steam  very 
slowly  for  about  40  minutes,  then  turn  out  carefully.  No  other  sauce 
is  needed  than  the  caramel,  which  runs  off  when  the  pudding  is  in- 
verted. This  pudding  is  equally  nice  cold;  when  intended  to  be  served 
thus,  it  may  be  allowed  to  cool  before  being  turned  out  of  the  mould, 
and  so  lessen  the  probability  of  its  breaking.  If  preferred,  6  dariol 
moulds  may  be  used  instead  of  i  large  mould. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  ;d.  or  8d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1801.— CARAMEL  RICE  PUDDING.    (Fr.— Caramel  au 
Riz. 

Ingredients. — For  the  caramel:  4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of 
.     For  the  pudding:   3  ozs.  of  rice,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  tablcspooniul 
of  castor  sugar,  2  eggs,  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Prepare  the  caramel,  and  line  the  mould  as  directed  in  the 
preceding  recipe.  Simmer  the  rice  in  the  milk  until  tender,  cool 
slightly,  then  stir  in  the  well-beaten  eggs,  sugar,  and  a  few  drops  oi 
vanilla  essence.  Turn  into  the  prepared  mould,  cover  with  Ini 
paper,  and  steam  for  nearly  i  hour.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold.  If 
preferred,  the  rice  may  be  steamed  in  dariol  mould>. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  jd.  or  8cl.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1802.— CARROT  PUDDING.         (Fr.— Pouding  Cre^y.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  young  carrots,  \  a  Ib.  of  fresh  breadcrumbs, 
£  a  Ib.  of  butter,  ±  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  glace  cherries, 
2  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  a  good  pinch  of  salt. 

Method.  -Wash  and  scrub  the  carrots,  but  do  not  scrape  them  ;  put 

them  into  slightly  salt*  d  \\at.-r  and  boil  until  tender,  then  rub  through 
a  lino  sieve.  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  add  the  yolks  oi 

iiul  beat  well,  then  mix  in  the  breadcrumbs,  cinnamon,  cl. 
cut  in  quarters,  and  tlu-  carrot  pulp.      Whip  tin-  whites  to  a  stilt  froth, 
stir  thorn  itly    into    tlu-   roM  of   tin-  inyn-ilionis.  pour  tin-  mix- 

ture into  a  v.v!l  InilUTrd  mould,  ami  -team  lor  jj    in  j'   hours. 
with  loir.-  or  sht-rry  s.mce. 

Time.      ,  .-.irs.     Average  Cost,  is.  ;,d.  to  IS,  «^\.     Sufficient  for 

7  or  s 


936  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

!8o3.— CARROT  PUDDING.     (Economical.) 

Ingredients. — f  of  a  Ib.  of  young  carrots,  \  a  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs, 
\  of  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  each  of  sul- 
tanas and  raisins,  cleaned  and  stoned,  3  eggs,  a  little  milk,  a  good  pinch 
of  nutmeg,  a  good  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Prepare  the  carrot  pulp  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add  to  them  the  carrot  pulp,  eggs 
(previously  well  beaten),  and  sufficient  milk  to  thoroughly  moisten  the 
whole.  Pour  into  a  well-greased  mould  or  basin,  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  steam  from  2  to  2 1-  hours.  Or,  turn  into  a  buttered  piedish, 
and  bake  gently  for  about  i£  hours. 

Time. — To  make  and  steam,  about  3  hours;  to  bake,  from  2to2£ 
hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

1804.— CASSELL  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 2  eggs,  and  their  weight  in  butter,  castor  sugar  and 
flour,  i  saltspoonful  of  finely- grated  lemon-rind,  jam. 

Method. — Whisk  the  eggs  well,  stir  in  the  sugar  and  flour,  and  add  the 
butter  slightly  warmed.  Have  ready  some  well-buttered  cups,  cover 
the  bottom  of  each  one  with  jam,  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with 
the  mixture.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  25  minutes,  and  serve  with 
boiled  custard  (see  recipes  for  same). 

Time. — f-  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  ipd.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1805.— CASTLE     PUDDINGS.         (Fr.— Pouding    a   la 
Chateau.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  ozs.  of  flour,  i£  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  level  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  i  egg,  a  little  milk,  flavouring. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  beat  in  the  egg  until 
the  mixture  is  light  and  creamy.  Sieve  the  flour  and  baking-powder 
together,  stir  lightly  in,  and  add  milk  gradually  until  the  mixture  drops 
readily  from  the  spoon.  Three  parts  fill  some  well-buttered  dariol 
moulds,  and  steam  for  50  minutes  or  bake  for  half  that  length  of  time. 
Grated  lemon-rind,  vanilla,  or  any  other  flavouring  ingredient  may  be 
added.  Serve  with  jam,  wine,  or  custard  sauce. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  5d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

l8o6._CHERRY  PUDDING.  (Fr.—  Pouding    aux 

Cerises.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cooking  cherries,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  moist  sugar, 
I  inch  of  cinnamon,  3  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4  eggs,  i  gill 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  937 

of  cream,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  (about),  the  grated  rind  of  4-  a  lemon, 
salt. 

Method. — Stone  the  cherries  by  means  of  a  wooden  skewer,  put  them 
with  the  cinnamon,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water,  and  the  moist  sugar, 
into  a  jar  placed  in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water,  cook  until 
tender,  and  allow  them  to  cool.  Heat  the  cream,  add  the  flour, 
previously  blended  smoothly  with  the  milk,  boil  well,  then  add  the 
sugar  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt.  Let  it  cool  slightly,  then  beat  in  the 
yolks  of  eggs  separately,  add  the  lemon-rind,  and  lastly  the  stiiiiy- 
whipped  whites  of  eggs.  Have  ready  a  well-buttered  plain  mould, 
place  a  layer  of  cherries  on  the  bottom,  then  a  layer  of  the  mixture, 
and  repeat  until  the  mould  is  full.  Cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and 
bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  40  minutes.  Serve  with  a  sweet 
sauce  or  fruit  syrup. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1807.— CHESTNUT  PUDDING.         (Fr.— Pouding  aux 
Matrons. ) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  chestnuts  (weighed  after  the  skins  are  removed), 
i  oz.  of  chocolate,  2  ozs.  of  cake  crumbs,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  4  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  essence 
of  vanilla. 

Method. — Bake  or  roast  the  chestnuts,  remove  both  skins,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  very  small  quant  it  y  , ,  cook  until  tender, 

then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Break  the  chocolate  into  small  pieces, 
put  it  and  the  milk  into  a  stewpan,  and  simmer  until  dissolved.  In 
another  stewpan  melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes, 
then  add  the  milk,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  The  cakecrumbs  must  now 
be  added,  and  the  mixture  stirred  and  cooked  until  it  leaves  the  sides 
of  the  stewpan  clear.  Allow  it  to  cool  a  little,  then  beat  in  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  and  add  the  chestnut  puree  and  the  vanilla  essence.  V 
the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  lightly  into  the  mixture,  pour 
into  a  well-buttered  mould,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  and  either  steam 
for  i£  hours  or  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  i  hour.  ^ 
vanilla  or  custard  sauce. 

Time. — About  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

1808.— CHESTER  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter  warmed, 
i  tablespoonful  of  ground  almonds,  essence  of  bitter  almonds,  i  lemon, 

«>r  1668 
Method. — Stir  the  yolks  of  tlv  1  sugar  together  until  thick 


938  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

and  smooth,  add  the  butter,  almonds,  a  few  drops  of  almond  essence, 
and  the  finely-grated  rind  and  juice  of  the  lemon.  Have  ready  a  small 
piedish  lined  with  paste,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  bake  gently  for 
20  minutes,  or  until  set.  Whip  the  whites  stiffly,  pile  them  on  the 
pudding,  dredge  liberally  with  castor  sugar, .replace  in  the  oven,  and 
bake  gently  until  the  whites  harden  and  acquire  a  little  colour.  Serve 
either  hot  or  cold. 

Tims. — f-  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

1809.— CHOCOLATE  PUDDING.        (Fr.— Pouding  au 
Chocolat.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  chocolate,  2  ozs.  of  cakecrumbs,  2  ozs.  of  flour, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  4  eggs,  -|-  a  pint  of  milk,  |-  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Break  the  chocolate  into  small  pieces,  put  it  with  the  milk 
into  a  stewpan,  simmer  until  dissolved  and  cool.  In  another  stewpan 
melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  a  little  without  browning,  then 
put  in  the  milk  and  stir  until  boiling.  Now  add  the  cakecrumbs,  and 
cook  gently  until  the  mixture  becomes  thick  and  leaves  the  sides  of  the 
stewpan  clear.  Let  it  cool  a  little,  then  beat  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 
and  add  the  vanilla  essence.  Whisk  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them 
lightly  into  the  mixture,  pour  into  a  well-buttered  plain  mould,  cover 
\vith  buttered  paper,  and  steam  for  i-|-  hours,  or  bake  for  i  hour  in  a 
moderate  oven.  Serve  with  custard,  chocolate,  or  vanilla  sauce. 

Time. — About  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  id.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

1 8 io.—  CHOCOLATE  PUDDING.    (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 3^  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs.  of  chocolate,  i£  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  %  of  a  pint  of  milk  (about),  vanilla 
essence. 

Method. — Break  the  chocolate  into  small  pieces,  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  the  milk,  and  simmer  until  dissolved.  Cream  the  butter  and 
sugar  together,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  breadcrumbs,  milk,  chocolate, 
and  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence,  and  mix  well  together.  Whisk  the 
whites  stiffly,  add  them  lightly  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into 
a  well-buttered  mould,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  steam  from 
i  £  to  i£  hours.  Or,  put  the  mixture  into  6  well-buttered  large-sized 
dariol  moulds,  and  steam  about  25  minutes.  Serve  with  custard  or 
vanilla  sauce. 

Time. — From  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  8d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 


KKCIPKS  FOR  PUDDINGS 

1 8 1 1. -CHRISTMAS  PUDDING  (without  suet).       (Fruit- 
arian Plum  Pudding). 

Ingredients.-  \  a  Ib.  of  figs,  £  a  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs,  -J-  a  Ib.  of  stoned 
raisins,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  currants.  \  of  a  Ib.  of  sultanas,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  candied 
I  a  Ib.  of  peeled  sweet  almonds,  j  of  a  Ib.  of  pine  kernels,  £  of  a 
Ib.  of  butter,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  shelled  Brazil  nuts,  the  grated  rind  of  r,  and 
the  juice  of  j.  lemons,  4  eggs,  I  teaspoonful  of  whole  spice,  a  pinch  of 
salt,  }  of  a  Ib.  of  moist  or  brown  sugar,  2  apples,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  honey. 

Method.  Mince  the  figs.  1  Vrl.  core  and  chop  the  apples.  Chop  tli ^ 
almonds,  pine  kernels  and  nuts,  (lean  the  fruit,  and  chop  or  shred 
the  candied  peel.  Put  all  the  di-  nts  in  a  basin,  and  add  the 

and  lemon  juice.  Beat  up  the  eggs,  and  stir  in  with  the  above. 
\Vhcn  thoroughly  mixed  till  into  I  or  2  buttered  moulds,  tie  over  with 
a  buttered  cloth,  and  boil  for  3  hours.  When  done,  unmould,  dish 

ad  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce  or  cust 
Average  Cost.— 2S.  9d.     Sufficient  for  2  medium-sized  puddings. 

I8I2.-CHRISTMAS  PUDDING  (rich).       (7<>.-Pouding 
de  Noel.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  beef  suet,  j  ozs.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of 

ot  a  11).  of  mixed  peel.    \   a  grated  nutmeg,  \  an  OZ.  of  mix* 
an  oz.  of  ground  cinnamon,  i  gill  of  milk,   i   wmeglassful  of  rum  or 
brandy,  $  a  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs.  £  a  Ib.  or  Ib.  of  cur- 

i  lemon,  2  ozs.  of  dc^  <>coanut  or  shredded  almonds  a 

pinch  of  salt,  4  eggs. 

Method.  -Skin  the  suet  and  cho:  ivnt.  stone  the 

raisins,  finely  shred  the  mixed  peel  ;    peel  and  chop  the  lemon  rind. 
Put  all  the  dry  ingredients  in  a  basin  ami  mix  well.      Add  the  milk, 
stir  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  add  the  rum  or  brandy  and  tl 
juice  of  the  lemon.     Work  the  whole  thoroughly  for  some  minutes,  so 
that   the   ini^redieir  !.      Put  the   mixture   in   a   well 

buttered  pudding  basin  or  pudding  cloth  ;   if  the  latter  i-  hould 

be  buttered  or  flou:  1  for  about  4  hours,  or  steam  for  at 

5   hours. 

Average  Cost.—  i  s.  i  <  >d.     Sufficient  for  8  or  9  persoi 

1813. -CHRISTMAS  PUDDING  (inexpensive). 

Ingredients. — |  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  of 
Paisli  11).  of  chopped  suet,  £  a  Ib.  of  sultanas,  %  a  Ib.  of 

I   It-iii-  -n  ruul  and  ;mlk  to  i; 

Method.     MU  r.  mix  tip 

.Mth    the    tloui.  1  all  the  other  ill  y  in;;:                     Mn  in  the 

beaten  eggs  and  suftuient  milk   to   i                                                   moist. 


940         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Boil  in  one  or  two  well  greased  pudding  basins  for  4  hours.     A  wine- 
glassful  of  brandy  may  be  added  if  liked. 

Average  Cost. — is.  3d.     Sufficient  for  i  large  or  2  small  puddings. 

1814.— CHRISTMAS  PUDDING.  (See  also  Recipes 
for  Plum  Pudding  and  Pound  Pudding, 
Recipes  No.  1888  to  1893.) 

1815.— COBOURG  PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. — |  a  pint  of  milk,  3  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
3  ozs.  of  butter,  3  ozs.  of  currants  cleaned  and  picked,  3  eggs,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  brandy,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  %  a 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  add  the  eggs  gradu- 
ally, and  beat  in  well  each  one.  Mix  in  the  rest  of  the  ingredients, 
pour  into  well-buttered  dariol  moulds  or  small  cups,  and  bake  for  about 
|  an  hour.  Serve  with  wine  sauce. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1816.— COCOANUT  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  grated  cocoanut,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  castor 
sugar,  i  oz.  of  cakecrumbs,  4  whites  of  eggs,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  \  a  pint  of 
milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence,  paste. 

Method. — Simmer  the  cocoanut  in  the  milk  until  tender,  and  allow 
it  to  become  quite  cold.  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until 
quite  smooth,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs  separately,  add  the  cakecrumbs, 
cream,  vanilla,  and  the  prepared  cocoanut  and  milk.  Whisk  the  whites 
of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  lightly  into  the  rest  of  the  ingredients, 
and  pour  the  mixture  into  a  piedish,  the  edges  of  which  must  be  previ- 
ously lined  and  decorated  with  paste  (see  Apple  Amber,  No.  1676).  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  mixture  is  set,  then  pile  on  the  remaining 
two  whites  of  eggs,  previously  stiffly-whisked,  replace  in  the  oven 
until  the  meringue  hardens  and  acquires  a  little  colour,  then  serve. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6cl.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

1817.— COLLEGE  PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet, 
2  ozs.  each  of  currants  and  sultanas,  cleaned  and  picked,  2  ozs.  of  sugar, 
2  eggs,  a  good  pinch  each  of  grated  nutmeg,  ground  cloves,  ground 
cinnamon,  and  salt,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add  the  eggs,  previ- 
ously well-beaten,  and  stir  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Put  the  mixture 
into  well-buttered  dariol  moulds,  and  either  bake  for  about  25  minutes 
or  steam  35  minutes.  Serve  with  a  good  wine  or  brandy  sauce. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,8d.  to9d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  941 

1818.— COLLEGE  PUDDINGS.    (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  breadcrumbs,  3  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet, 
2  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  currants,  cleaned  and  picked,  i  oz.  of  finely- 
shredded  candied  peel,  2  eggs,  a  pinch  each  of  nutmeg  and  salt,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  brandy,  if  liked. 

Method. — Mix  the  breadcrumbs,  suet,  sugar,  currants,  peel,  salt  and 
nutmeg  together.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  to  them  the  brandy,  strain 
into  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  stir  until  thoroughly  mixed.  Cover 
the  basin,  and  let  the  mixture  stand  for  at  least  i  hour  for  the  bread  to 
soak;  then  form  into  round  or  cork-shaped  pieces,  fry  very  gently  in 
hot  butter  or  fat,  in  a  saute  pan,  turning  them  frequently.  Drain  well, 
and  serve  as  hot  as  possible  with  good  wine  sauce. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  8d.  to  9d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons. 

1819.— CORN  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  tablespoonfuls  of  Indian  meal,  i  tablespoonful  of 
castor  sugar,  |  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  3  eggs, 
i  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Mix  the  meal  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil  up  the  remainder, 
add  the  meal,  sugar,  and  lemon-rind,  stir  and  cook  gently  for  a  few 
minut  >1,  add  the  well-beaten  eggs,  ha 

cups  with  the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot   oven  for  £  an 
hour. 

Time. —  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1820.— CORNFLOUR  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. —  i   pint  of  milk,  2   tablespoonfuls  of  cornflour,  i  t 
spoonful  of  castor  sugar,  2  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt,  the  grated  rind  of  £  a 
lemon. 

Method. — Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the 
remainder,  and  add  to  it  the  cornflour,  stirring  all  the  time.  Return 
to  the  saucepan,  and  boil  gently  until  it  thickens,  then  cool  slightly. 
Add  the  sugar,  yolks  of  eggs,  salt  and  lemon-rind,  and  stir  for  2  or  3 
minutes  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  Whisk  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  lightly 
add  them  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into  a  buttered  piedish, 
and  bake  slowly  for  £  an  hour. 

Time.— About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  sd.  to  6d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 

1821.— COTTAGE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  4  ozs.  of 
raisins,  stoned  and  halved,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  egg,  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls 


942  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

ot  milk,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  car- 
bonate of  soda,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  suet,  raisins,  sugar,  cream  of  tartar,  and  a 
good  pinch  of  salt  together.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  milk,  add  it  to 
the  well-beaten  egg,  mix  well,  and  stir  into  the  dry  ingredients.  The 
mixture  must  be  rather  stiff,  but,  at  the  same  time,  thoroughly  moist- 
ened. Turn  into  a  greased  Yorkshire  pudding-tin,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  from  30  to  40  minutes.  Cut  the  pudding  into  squares, 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  ;d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1822.— CRANBERRY     PUDDING.  (See    Apple 

Pudding,     Boiled,    No.     1763,    and     Damson 
Pudding,  No.   1832.) 

1823.— CROQUETS  OF  RICE.         (Fr.—  Croquettes  de 
Riz.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  Carolina  rice,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of 
butter,  lemon-rind,  about  i-J-  pints  of  milk,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  whole 
egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  i  pint 
of  milk,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  a  little  thin  lemon-rind,  and  cook  until  the 
rice  is  tender,  adding  more  milk  as  required.  When  done,  take  out  the 
temon-rind,  add  the  sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  over  the  fire  until 
sufficiently  cooked,  then  spread  the  mixture  on  a  plate.  When  ready, 
form  into  pear  or  cork  shapes,  coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry 
in  hot  fat  until  lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  dredge  with  castor  sugar, 
and  serve  with  a  fruit  syrup  or  suitable  sweet  sauce. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  ^d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1824.— CRYSTAL  PALACE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. —  i  heaped  up  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour,  £  an  oz.  of 
gelatine  or  isinglass,  \  a  pint  of  cream,  \  of  a  pint  of  milk,  sugar  and 
vanilla  to  taste,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  glace  cherries. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  or  isinglass  in  a  little  water,  heat  up  the 
cream,  and  strain  in  the  dissolved  gelatine.  Blend  the  cornflour 
smoothly  with  the  milk,  mix  it  with  the  cream,  and  sweeten  to  taste. 
Stir  and  boil  gently  for  10  minutes,  let  the  preparation  cool  slightly, 
then  add  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence.  Stir 
until  on  the  point  of  setting,  then  turn  into  small  moulds  previously 
decorated  with  glace  cherries.  When  firm,  turn  out,  dish  up,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  4  or 
5  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUni>IN<iS  943 

1825.— CUMBERLAND  PUDDING. 

Ingredients.     '>  o/s.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  >/.s.  of 

apple,  4  o/s.  of  currants  cleaned,  3  eggs,  salt  and 
nuti: 

Method.— Beat  the  11,  mix  them  with  the  other  ingredient*, 

and  turn  the  whole  into  a  buttered  basin.     Steam  for  2|  hours,  or  boil 
for  2  hours,  then  serve  with  wine  sauce. 

Time.— From  2  to  2}  hours.     Aferage  Co:t.  od.  to  icxl.     Sufflck 
:    5   perse: 

1826.— CURATE'S  PUDDING. 

Ingredients.— 6  tablespoonfuls  of  mashed  potato,  4  ozs.  of  - 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  j  eggs,  i  lemon.   J   <»r  ;  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  i  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Method.     Cream    the    bun  ug.ir    together    until    thick    and 

smooth,  add  tl:«  ••^gs.  and  N  at  \\«  M.     .\..\\  stir  in  the  potato,  the  j 

<-d  mid  oi  the  IrjMon.  x.th.  tl:id  a  little  milk,  and  \shen  well 
mixed  pour  into  a  greased  piedish.  Hake  irom  30  to  35  minutes  m  a 
mo<l 

Time.     Atom   i  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.  or  oxi.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5 

1827.     CURRANT  PUDDING,  BOILED. 

Ingredients.     \  a  Ib.  of  curra:  --d,  ^  a  Ib.  of  suet  finely-chopped, 

I  Ib.  of  flour,  milk,  lemon,  butt* •: 

Method. -Mix  the  dry  ingredients  \-  :nd  add  sufficient  milk 

to  form  a  s;  ;.     Turn  the  mixture  into  a  floured  cloth,  boil 

•:  jl  hoji:  ;\r  \\itlsacut  lemon.  Iresh  butter  and  sugar. 

tor  making  a  pudding  of  fresh  fruit,  see  Apple  1 

Time.— To  boil  the  pudding,  about  ;  hours.    Average  Coit,  is.    SufQcicnt 

' 

1828. -CUSTARD  PUDDING,  BAKED. 
Ingredients.     \  a  pint  of  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  loaf  or  castor  sugar, 

Method.  s,  add  to  them  the  sugar  and  milk,  an.: 

d.     Strain  into  a  buttered  picdish,  and  bake 

»n  a  t  (about  30  minutes).     When  the  oven  is  too  hot 

1Mr  ll(l  be  placed  in  a  tin  of  water,  to  prevent  the  cusi 

baking  too  quickly  (see  Notes  on  I'uddings.  ]>.  <, 

Time.— About  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  ?Jd.     Sufficient  (or   i   or  2 
•ns. 


944  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

1829.— CUSTARD     PUDDING,     BAKED.        (Another 

way.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  i  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  lemon-rind,  bay-leaf  or  laurel-leaf  for 
flavouring,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg. 

Method. — Simmer  the  milk  with  the  flavouring  ingredient  for  about 
20  minutes,  then  remove  the  lemon-rind  or  whatever  has  been  used, 
and  put  in  the  butter  and  sugar.  Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little 
cold  milk  or  water,  pour  it  into  the  stewpan,  stir  until  it  boils,  cook  for 
5  minutes,  then  cool  a  little.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  them  to  the  rest  of 
the  ingredients,  pour  into  a  buttered  piedish,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven 
for  about  40  minutes,  or  until  set. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1830.— CUSTARD  PUDDING,  STEAMED. 

Ingredients. — $•  a  pint  of  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  3 
eggs,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  sugar,  milk  and  vanilla  essence, 
stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  pour  the  mixture  into  a  buttered 
basin,  and  steam  VERY  GENTLY  for  %  an  hour.  Serve  with  wine  sauce. 
A  very  nice  pudding  may  be  made  with  the  same  quantity  of  milk, 
half  the  quantity  of  sugar,  and  i  egg,  but  it  must  be  served  in  the 
basin. 

Time — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  $d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3 
persons. 

1831.— CUSTARD  PIE. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  sugar  (or  to  taste), 

1  level  tablespoonful  of  cornflour,  3  eggs,  the  rind  of  -\  a  lemon,  or  other 
flavouring,  salt,  paste  No.   1668,  or  1669. 

Method. — Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  simmer 
the  remainder  with  the  lemon-rind  for  about  20  minutes,  then  remove 
the  lemon-rind  and  add  the  milk  to  the  cornflour,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Replace  in  the  stewpan,  stir  and  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  add  the  sugar 
and  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  cool  slightly.  Meanwhile 
beat  the  eggs,  and  add  them  to  the  rest  of  tlie  ingredients.  Line 

2  deep  dishes  or  12  deep  patty-pans  with  paste,  pour  in  the  custard, 
and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  the  paste  is  sufficiently  cooked 
and  the  custard  set.     If  the  oven  has  not  a  good  bottom  heat  the  paste 
should  be  partially  baked  before  putting  in  the  custard  (see  Cherry 
Tartlets,  No.  1685). 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  8 
or  9  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDi:  945 

r832.—  DAMSON  PUDDING. 

Ingredients.— Suet  crust,  No.  1670  or  1671,  i£  pints  of  damsons,  2 
tablespooniuls  of  brown  sugar,  or  to  t 

Method. — Line  the  •;  directed  for  Apple  Pudding,  Xo.  1763. 

Half  fill  it  with  fruit,  add  the  sugar,  and  then  the  remainder  of  the  fruit. 
Put  on  the  cover,  carefully  seal  the  edges,  and  if  the  pudding  is  to  be 
boiled,  tic  on  a  scalded  well-floured  cloth;  if  steamed,  cover  it  with  a 
sheet  of  greased  paper.  Cook  from  2^  to  3  h< 

Time. — From  3  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  7d.  to  8d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

1833.— DANISH  PUDDING.    (Fr.-Pouding  Danoise.) 

Ingredients. —  i  breakfastcupful  of  tapioca,  i  breakfastcupful  of  red 
currant  jelly,  salt  and  castor  sugar  to  taste,  3  pints  of  water. 

Method. — Soak  the  tapioca  in  the  water  for  at  least  12.  hours,  then 
turn  it  into  a  doubi  >an,  cook  for  i£  hours,  and  add  salt  and 

sugar  to  taste.     Stir  in  •  uxcd.  turn  the  pre- 

>n  into  a  mould,  and  put  aside  until  set.     Serve  wit: 
m. 

Time. — To  cook  the  tapioca,  f  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

1834.— DATE  PUDDING.    (Fr.— Pouding  aux  Dattes.) 

Ingredients. —  I  a  Ib.  of  stoned  and  chopped  dates,  £  a  Ib.  of  finely- 
chopped  suet,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  ^  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  milk  or  water. 
Method. — Mix  the  dry  ingi-  add  sufficient  milk 

bo  moisten  them  .slightly,  and  turn  the  • 
greased  basin.     Steam  or  boil  fro:  hours,  or  form  the  nr. 

a  roly-poly,  enclose  it  in  a  cloth,  and  boil  gently  for  1}  hot; 
Time. — From  2  to  3$  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.     Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
pers< 

1835.— DELHI  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — i   Ib.  of  flour,   10  o/.s.  of  finely-chopped  suet,    i 
spoonful  of  baking-powder,  £  a  Ib.  of  ;  :  or  5  apples,  the  grated 

rind  of    i    lemon,   2   or  poonfuls    of    brown    sugar,   nutmeg, 

Method. — Stone  and  halve  the  raisins,  pare,  core  and  slice  the  apples. 
Mix  the  flour,  -  ich  of  salt,  add  a  little 

cold  \\  o  a  smooth  s;  it  into  2  equal 

portion  cut  of: 
to  form  th<  roll  the  remainder  out  thinly.     Put  a  layer  of  apple 


946  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

in  the  basin,  add  a  few  raisins,  and  sprinkle  with  sugar,  lemon-rind  and 
nutmeg,  previously  well  mixed  together.  From  the  rolled  out  paste  cut 
a  round  large  enough  to  rather  more  than  cover  the  fruit  in  the  basin, 
moisten  the  edges  of  it  with  water,  and  join  them  carefully  to  the  paste 
lining  the  basin.  Now  put  in  another  layer  of  apple,  add  raisins, 
sprinkle  with  sugar,  etc.,  and  cover  with  pastry  as  before.  Repeat 
until  the  basin  is  full,  then  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  steam  for 
3  hours. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d.  Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons. 

1836.— DEVONSHIRE  RUM  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Cold  plum  pudding  cut  into  strips,  milk,  allowing  i  pint 
to  i  tablespoonful  of  cornflour,  i  egg,  i  level  tablespoonful  of  castor 
sugar,  and  a  good  glass  of  rum. 

Method. — Butter  a  piedish,  and  fill  it  with  strips  of  plum  pudding 
crossed  lattice  fashion.  Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk, 
boil  up  the  remainder,  add  the  blended  cornflour,  and  cook  gently  for 
3  minutes.  Stir  in  the  sugar,  beat  and  add  the  eggs,  and  put  in  the 
rum.  Pour  the  sauce  over  the  plum  pudding,  bake  gently  for  about 
£  an  hour,  then  serve.  If  preferred,  the  pudding  may  be  steamed  for 
2  hours  in  a  basin. 

Time. — About \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  6 
persons. 

1837.— DRESDEN  PUDDING.        (Fr.—  Pouding    a   la 
Dresde.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  crumbled  brown 
bread,  i4-  ozs.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  desiccated  cocoanut,  £  a 
tcaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  the  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  £  of  a 
pint  of  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  Cura9oa,  3  eggs. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook 
for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  %  a  gill  of  water  and  £  of  the  milk,  bring- 
to  boiling  point,  stirring  meanwhile,  and  simmer  gently  for  5  minutes. 
Heat  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  and  pour  it  over  the  cocoanut,  add  the 
brown  bread,  previously  passed  through  a  fine  sieve,  sugar  and  lemon- 
rind  ,  cover,  and  let  it  stand  for  10  minutes.  Meanwhile  add  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  stir  until  they  thicken,  then 
put  in  the  cocoanut  preparation,  add  the  cinnamon  and  Cura9oa,  and 
lastly  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Turn  into  a  welt-buttered 
mould  or  souffle  tin,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  i  hour,  and 
serve  with  a  suitable  sweet  sauce  or  fruit  syrup. 

Tims — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  $ 
persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  947 

l838._DUCHESS    PUDDING.      (Fr.— Pouding     a    la 
Duchesse.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  maca- 
roons, £  an  oz.  of  pistachios,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  marmalade,  i 
level  teaspoonful  of  ground  rice,  3  eggs. 

Method. — Blanch,  peel  and  chop  the  pistachios  coarsely,  and  crush 
the  macaroons.  Work  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and 
creamy,  then  beat  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  add  the  macaroons  and 
marmalade.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  lightly 
the  ground  rice  and  half  the  pistachios,  then  stir  the  whole  carefully 
into  the  mixture.  Have  ready  a  well-buttered  souffle-mould,  sprinkle 
the  remainder  of  the  pistachios  on  the  bottom  and  sides,  pour  in  the 
preparation,  and  steam  slowly  for  about  i  £  hours.  Serve  with  suitable 
sauce. 

Time. — From  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1839.— DUMPLINGS.      (See    Note    to    Suet    Pudding, 
No.  1915.) 

1840.— EMPRESS  PUDDING. 

(Fr. — Pouding  a  1'Imperatrice.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  milk,  4  ozs.  of  rice,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  paste  or  paste  trimmings,  jam  or  stewed  fruit,  salt. 

Method. — Simmer  the  rice  in  the  milk  until  tender  and  fairly  dry, 
then  add  the  butter,  sugar,  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt.  Line  the  edge  of 
the  piedish  with  paste,  then  spread  a  thin  layer  of  rice  on  the  bottom 
of  the  dish,  and  cover  thickly  with  jam  or  stewed  fruit.  Repeat  until 
the  dish  is  full,  letting  the  top  layer  be  of  rice.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  about  £  an  hour,  and  serve  with  boiled  custard  sauce 
No.  332. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

1841.— EVE'S  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  butter,  3  ozs  of  castor  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  flour, 
2  eggs,  almond  or  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Beat  the  bmter  ami  sugar  until  ihick  and  creamy,  add  the 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  in  the  flour,  \\lnsk  the  whites  siii'tly,  stir  them 
lightly  in.  and  flavour  to  fast-  ready  some  \vell-bntteivtl 

ilariols  or  small  cups,  fill  them  three-quarters  full  with  the  mixture, 
and  hake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  from  25  to  30  mini: 

Time. —  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  7d.  to  8cl.     Sufficient  for  6  persons. 


948  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1842.— EXETER  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 5  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  2  sponge  cakes  sliced,  i  oz.  of 
ratafias,  3^  ozs.  of  suet  finely-chopped,  2  ozs.  of  sago,  3  ozs.  of  moist 
sugar,  4  small  or  3  large  eggs,  i  wineglassful  of  rum,  2  or  3  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  cream  or  milk,  -|-  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-rind,  jam,  sauce. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  ratafias,  sponge  cake, 
and  jam,  well  together.  Coat  a  well-buttered  mould  or  basin  Lightly 
with  breadcrumbs,  and  cover  the  bottom  with  ratafias.  Add  a  layer 
of  the  mixture,  cover  with  slices  of  sponge  cake,  spread  thickly  with 
jam,  and  on  the  top  place  a  few  ratafias.  Repeat  until  all  the  materials 
are  used,  taking  care  that  the  mixture  forms  the  top  layer.  Bake 
gently  for  i  hour,  and  serve  with  a  sauce  made  of  3  tablespoonfuls 
of  black-currant  jelly,  a  glass  of  sherry  and  a  little  water,  and  boiled  up. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  9d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons. 

1843.— FIG  PUDDING.     (Fr—  Pouding  aux  Figues.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  dried  figs,  6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  4  ozs. 
of  breadcrumbs,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs, 
a  good  pinch  of  salt,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg. 

Method. — Chop  the  figs  finely,  add  to  them  the  rest  of  the  dry  in- 
gredients, and  mix  well.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  milk,  pour  into  the 
mixture,  and  stir  well.  Turn  into  a  greased  basin,  and  steam  for  2|- 
hours.  Serve  with  a  suitable  sweet  sauce. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1844.— FIG  PUDDING.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  dried  figs,  finely-chopped,  6  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs. 
of  finely-chopped  suet,  a  good  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  suet  and  salt  together,  and  add  enough  cold 
water  to  form  a  stiff  paste.  Roll  out  to  a  suitable  thickness,  cover  with 
the  chopped  figs,  moisten  the  edges  with  water,  roll  up,  and  make  the 
ends  secure.  Scald  and  flour  a  pudding-cloth,  put  in  the  roll,  tie  the 
cloth  at  each  end,  put  the  pudding  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  about 
\\  hours. 

NOTE. — A  little  moist  sugar  may  be  added,  if  liked. 

Time. — From  2  to  2±  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  ?d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

1845.— FINGER  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  Savoy  or  finger  biscuits  crushed,  i£  ozs.  of  butter, 
3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  4  eggs,  £  of  a  teaspoon- 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  949 

ful  of  grated  lemon-rind,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  a  good 
pinch  of  ground  cloves. 

Method. — Stir  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  together  until  smooth 
and  creamy,  add  the  almonds,  lemon-rind,  cinnamon,  cloves,  the 
butter  melted,  and  the  crushed  biscuits.  Whisk  the  whites  stiffly, 
stir  them  lightly  in,  and  turn  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  mould. 
Steam  gently  for  about  i  hour,  and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1846.— FOREST  PUDDING. 

Ingredients  — 3  stale  sponge  cakes,  2  eggs,  jam,  }  of  a  pint  of  milk, 
the  grated  rind  of  \  a  lemon  or  other  flavouring,  sugar. 

Method. — Slice  the  sponge  cakes  thinly,  spread  half  of  them  with 
jam,  cover  with  the  remainder,  and  place  the  sandwiches  in  a  buttered 
h,  which  they  should  half  fill.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  milk 
and  flavouring,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Pour  the  custard  into  the  pie- 
dish,  cover,  and  let  it  stand  for  i  hour,  then  bake  slowly  from  30  to  35 
minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  iod.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1847.— FRENCH      PANCAKES.        (Ff. -Crepes    a    la 
Fran^aise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs..of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  castor  si 
about  4  tablespoonfuls  of  jam,  2  eggs,  •$  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method.— Heat  the  milk  in  a  stewpan.     Cream  the  butter  and  | 
together  until  smooth,  beat  in  the  eggs,  and  stir  in  the  flour  lightly. 
Now  add  the  warm  milk,  which  will  slightly  curdle  tho  mixture,  beat 
well,  then  cover  and  let  it  stand  for  i  hour,      i  ly  6  bur 

plates  or  large  saucers,  put  an  equal  quantity  of  batter  into  each,  bake 
quickly  until  the  batter  rises,  then  more  slowly  for  about  10  minutes. 
Spread  5  of  them  with  jam,  which  should  be  warm,  place  them  on  the 
top  of  each  other,  cover  with  the  plain  pancake,  and  dredge  well  with 
castor  sugar.  Serve  quickly. 

Time. — About  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1848.— FRESH   PLUM   PUDDING.  (See  Damson 

Pudding,  No.   1832.) 

1849.   -FRIAR'S  OMELET. 

Ingredients.— 4  sour  cooking  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs.  of 

sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg,     a  lei 


95o  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  stew  them  with  the  sugar, 
butter,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  the  lemon  until  tender,  then  stir  in  the 
well-beaten  egg.  Put  half  the  breadcrumbs  at  the  bottom  of  a  buttered 
piedish,  pour  in  the  apple  mixture,  and  cover  with  the  rest  of  the  bread- 
crumbs. Add  a  few  bits  of  butter,  and  bake  for  1 5  minutes  in  a  moder- 
ate oven. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3 
persons. 

!  850.— GENEVA  PUDDING.  (Fr.—  Pouding  a  la 

Genevoise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  sour  cooking  apples,  3  ozs.  of  rice,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
sugar,  about  i£  pints  of  milk,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon, 
salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  i  pint 
of  milk  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  cook  until  tender,  adding  more  milk 
as  required,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  While  the  rice  is  cooking,  pare, 
core  and  slice  the  apples,  place  them  with  the  butter,  cinnamon,  and 
a  good  tablespoonful  of  sugar  in  a  jar,  stand  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  half 
full  of  boiling  water,  cook  until  tender,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Butter  a  fireproof  china  souffle  dish,  arrange  the  rice  and  apple  purte 
in  alternate  layers,  letting  rice  form  the  bottom  and  top  layers,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  35  to  40  minutes. 

Time. — About  i-J-  hours.  Average  Cost,  nd.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1851.— GERMAN  RICE  PUDDING.     (Fr. -Pouding  de 
Riz  a,  TAllemagne.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  ground  rice,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  sugar, 
or  to  taste,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  3  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  paste, 
salt. 

Method. — Line  and  decorate  the  piedish  with  the  paste,  as  directed 
in  the  recipe  for  Apple  Amber,  No.  1676.  Bring  the  milk  to  boiling 
point,  add  the  sugar,  butter,  lemon-rind,  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt, 
sprinkle  in  the  rice,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  cook  gently  for  about  20 
minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Let  it  cool  a  little,  then  add  the  yolks 
of  eggs  and  i  white  stiffly-whisked.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the  pre- 
pared piedish,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  30  minutes,  or  until 
set.  Meanwhile  whisk  the  remaining  two  whites  of  eggs  stiffly,  and 
now  pile  them  on  the  pudding,  and  dredge  liberally  with  castor  sugar. 
Replace  in  the  oven  until  the  meringue  hardens  and  acquires  a  little 
colour,  then  serve  hot. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  t,o  is.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  951 

1852.— GINGER   PUDDING.      (Fr—  Pouding  au   Gin- 
gembre.) 

Ingredients. — 12  ozs.  of  flour,  12  ozs.  of  treacle,  6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped 
suet,  i  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder, 
%  of  a  pint  of  milk,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  suet,  ginger,  baking-powder,  and  a  good  pinch 
of  salt  well  together.  Stir  in  the  treacle  and  milk,  turn  the  mixture 
into  a  well-greased  basin,  and  cover  with  a  greased  paper.  Steam  for 
about  2  hours,  and  serve  with  custard  or  cornflour  sauce,  or  sweet  melted 
butter. 

Time. — 2\  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

1853.- -GINGERBREAD  PUDDING. 

Ingredients.—  I  a  Ib.  of  flour,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  \  a  Ib.  of 
treacle,  i  egg,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  i  teaspoonful  of  ground 
ginger,  J  of  a  pint  of  milk,  salt. 

Method.  Mix  the  flour,  suet ,  -in-rr.  kik;  ; ,  and  a  good  pinch 

of  salt  well  together.  Add  the  milk,  treacle  and  well-beaten  egg, 
mix  thoroughly,  then  turn  into  ould  or  basin,  and 

steam  from  2.1  to  3  hours.  Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — 3  to  3}  hours.     Average  Cost,  ; d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1854.— GOLDEN  PUDDING.     (Fr.— Pouding  Dor6.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet, 
4  ozs.  of  marmalade,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  .  ilk,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  breadcrumbs,  suet,  sugar,  and  a  good  pinch  of 
salt  well  together.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  marmalade  and  milk, 
stir  into  the  dry  ingredients,  and  when  well  mixed  turn  into  a  greased 
mould  or  basin.  Cover  with  a  greased  papr-r.  steam  from  2  to  2^  hours, 
and  serve  with  cornflour,  marmalade,  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — From  2^  to  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1855.— GOOSEBERRY  PUDDING,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  gooseberries,  |  a  pint  of  breadcrumbs,  . 
of  sui^ar,  or  to  taste,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  3  eggs,  paste  No.  1667,  or  1668. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  tops  and  tails  of  the  gooseberries,  cook  them 
until  tender  in  a  jar  placed  in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water,  then 
rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Add  to  the  gooseberry  puree  the  bread- 
crumbs, butter,  sugar,  and  the  eggs  well  beaten.  Have  ready  a  piedish 
with  the  edge  lined  with  paste,  pour  in  the  preparation,  bake  for 
about  40  minutes,  or  until  set,  then  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar,  and 
serve  hot. 

Time.     About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  pei 


952  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1856.— GOOSEBERRY    PUDDING,    BOILED.        (See 
Damson  Pudding,  No.  1832.) 

1857.— GREENGAGE    PUDDING.  (See    Damson 

Pudding,  No.  1832.) 

1858.— GROUND  RICE  PUDDING.     (Fr.-Pouding  au 

Riz.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  ground  rice,  i  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  or  to 
taste,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  i  pint  of  milk,  bay-leaf,  vanilla  or  other 
flavouring. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk,  sprinkle  in  the  ground  rice,  simmer  gently 
for  20  minutes,  then  stir  in  the  sugar,  butter  and  eggs.  If  bay-leaf  or 
vanilla  pod  is  the  flavouring  ingredient,  it  should  be  cooked  in  the  milk; 
if  essence  is  used,  it  is  better  to  add  it  just  before  baking  the  mix- 
ture. Turn  into  a  buttered  piedish,  and  bake  gently  for  about  %  an 
hour. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1859.— HAMPSHIRE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  castor-sugar,  3  ozs.  of  butter  warmed,  3  yolks 
of  eggs,  2  whites  of  eggs,  jam,  puff-paste. 

Method. — Line  a  deep  plate  with  the  paste,  and  cover  the  bottom 
with  a  good  layer  of  jam.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  butter  and  sugar 
gradually,  and  whisk  briskly  until  thick.  Pour  the  mixture  over  the 
jam,  and  bake  in  a  moderately-hot  oven  for  about  £  hour.  Serve 
either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.    Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 

1860.— HASTY    PUDDING.      ,    (Fr.—Poudmg    a    la 
Minute.) 

Ingredients. — Milk,  sugar,  flour,  sago  or  tapioca,  salt. 

Method. — Boil  up  the  milk  ;  with  the  left  hand  sprinkle  in  sufficient 
flour,  sago  or  tapioca  to  thicken  the  milk,  stirring  briskly  mean- 
while. Add  a  little  salt  and  sugar  to  taste,  stir  and  cook  for  about 
10  minutes,  and  serve  with  cream  and  sugar,  jam  or  treacle. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d.  per  person. 

1861.— HONEY  PUDDING.        (Fr.—  Pouding  au  Miel.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  honey,  6  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  florador,  2  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  %  a  lemon,  -}  a  teaspoonful  of 
ground  ginger,  i  gill  of  milk. 

Method. — Cook  the  florador  in  the  milk  for  10  minutes,  then  pour  the 
preparation  over  the  breadcrumbs,  add  the  honey,  lemon-rind,  ginger, 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  953 

warmed  butter,  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  beat  well.  Whisk 
the  whites  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  into  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and 
turn  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  plain  mould.  Steam  gently 
from  i  J  to  2  hours,  and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  gd.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1 862.— HUNTER  PUDDING.    (Fr .— Pouding  Chasseur. ) 

Ingredients. — 12  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  6  ozs.  of 
raisins  stoned  and  halved,  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk  or  water,  salt. 

Method. — Add  the  suet,  raisins,  sugar,  baking-powder,  and  a  good 

It  to  the  flour,  mix  Ikorwat- 

the  mixture  into  i  large  or  2  small  rolls,  tie  in  pudding  cloths,  and 
boil  for  about  2  hours.  If  preferred,  the  mixture  may  be  made  m»i-e 
moist  and  steamed  in  a  basin. 

Time. — From  2 1-  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  7d.  Sufficient  for  (>  or  7 
persons. 

1863.— ITALIAN     PUDDING.  (7<>.-Pouding     a 

1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  crumbled  cake,  i  o/.  oi  imbs,  6  maca- 

roons pounded,  i  oz.  of  shredded  candied  peel,  £  an  oz.  o: 
}  an  oz.  of  pistachios  shredded,  *  of  5  eggs  and  the  \vh 

.:.2jp,   i   tablespoonful  of  rum  or  brandy. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together,  turn  the  mixture  into 
a  well-buttered  mould,  and  steam  gently  from    i  to  ij  hours, 
v.ith  custard  sauce  No.  332. 

Time. — From  ij  to  2}  hours.      Average    Cost,  is.  3d.      Sufficient  for 
persons. 

1864.—  ITALIAN  PUDDING.         (Another  Recipe.) 

Ingredients.— i  Ib.  of  apples  sliced,  £  a  Ib.  of  dates  stoned,  $  a  Ib.  of 
:ied,  2  ozs.  of  mixed  peel    shredded,    2    ozs.    of   Savoy   or 

other  plain  cake-crumbs,  2  eggs,  $  of  a  pint  of  milk,  sugar,  nutmeg. 

Method.     M.ik-  a   i--.-tn.rd  of  tl.  .nd  milk,   stir  in     the- 

crumb-;,  and  suceten  to  i  \  the  dales,  raisin*,  and   pci-1 

Intle  nutmeg.     Place  the  apple  at  the  1> 

fruit,  and  pour  in  the  r  cool 

of  an  hour,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 
Time. — About  i  \  hours.    Average  Cost,  about  is.  2d.    Sufficient  for  5  or 


954  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

I865._JENNY  LIND  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  stale  sponge  cakes,  3  or  4  cocoanut  cakes,  12  rata- 
fias, 2  eggs,  i  pint  of  milk,  sugar,  i  tablcspoonful  of  desiccated  cocoa- 
nut. 

Method. — Slice  the  sponge  cakes,  and  place  them  in  a  buttered  pie- 
dish  interspersed  with  the  cocoanut  cakes  and  ratafias.  Simmer  the 
cocoanut  in  the  milk  for  20  minutes,  cool  slightly,  add  the  eggs  and 
sugar  to  taste,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Pour 
the  custard  into  the  piedish,  bake  gently  until  set,  then  serve  either 
hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

1866.— KAISER  PUDDING.        (Fr.— Ponding  a  1'Em- 
pereur.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  sugar  to  taste,  3  eggs,  %  a  pint 
of  cream,  i  dessertspoonful  of  orange-juice,  blanched  almonds,  shredded 
candied  peel. 

Method. — Separate  and  beat  the  yolk  of  the  eggs,  add  i  tablespoonful 
of  castor  sugar,  the  ground  almonds,  and  the  cream  gradually.  Whisk 
the  whites  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  in,  and  add  more  sugar  if  necessary. 
Have  ready  a  mould  well  buttered  and  lightly  covered  with  shredded 
almonds  and  candied  peel,  then  pour  in  the  mixture.  Steam  gently 
for  i|-  hours,  and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  9d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1867.— LEMON  PUDDING,  BAKED.        (Fr.— Pouding 
au  citron.) 

Ingredients. — 2  lemons,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  cakecrumbs, 
3  eggs,  i  gill  of  cream  or  milk,  paste  No.  1667,  or  1668. 

Method. — Cream  the  sugar  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  together  until 
thick  and  white,  add  the  juice  of  the  lemons,  the  rinds  grated,  the 
cream  or  milk,  cakecrumbs,  and  lastly  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of 
eggs.  Have  ready  a  piedish  with  the  edges  lined  and  decorated  with 
paste  (see  Apple  Amber),  pour  in  the  preparation,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  about  \  an  hour,  or  until  set.  Sprinkle  the  surface 
liberally  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — About  i  hour.    Average  Cost,  is.  3d.    Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1868.— LEMON    PUDDING,    BAKED.  (Another 

Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  lemons,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter,  3  sponge 
cakes,  3  eggs,  |  a  pint  of  milk,  paste. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  955 

Method.— Put  the  milk,  butter,  sugar  and  grated  lemon-rind  into  a 
stewpan,  boil  up,  let  it  infuse  for  about  15  minutes,  then  pour  over  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  stirring  meanwhile.  Add  the  crumbled 
sponge  cakes  and  lemon-juice,  mix  well  together,  and  pour  into  a  pie- 
dish,  the  edges  of  which  must  be  previously  lined  and  decorated  with 
the  paste  (see  Apple  Amber).  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  30  to 
3;  minutes,  or  until  the  mixture  is  set,  then  cover  with  the  stiffly- 
whisked  whites  of  eggs,  and  dredge  liberally  with  castor  sugar.  Re- 
place in  the  oven  until  the  meringue  hardens  and  acquires  a  little 
colour. 

Time. — About  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1869.— LEMON  PUDDING,  BOILED.       (Fr.— Ponding 
au  citron.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  fimly- 
chopped  suet,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  lemons,  2  eggs,  milk. 

Method. —  Mix    the   breadcrumbs,    flour,   suet,    and   sugar   together, 
add  the  well  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  the  lemon-juice,  and  the  finely  grated 
linds,   add   milk   gradually    until   a    stilt     yet    thoroughly   m<  i- 
mixture  is  formed.      Turn  into  a  buttered  basin  and  steam  for  about 
2±  to  3  hours.     Serve  with  cornflour  or  sweet  melted  butter  sauce. 

Time. — About  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  </d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1870.— MACARONI     OR     SPAGHETTI     PUDDING. 

Ingredients. —  I  oz.  of  macaroni   or  spaghetti,  i  oz.   of  butter,  i  oz.  of 
i  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon  or  other 
flavouring,  salt. 

Method. — Break    the   macaroni    or   sparghetti    into   ^-inch    lengths, 
put    them   with   a   pinch   of   salt    into    the   milk   when    boiling,   and 
simmer  until  tender.     Add  the  sugar,  butter,  lemon-rind,  and  the  well- 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  stir  the  mixture  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for 
minutes,  but  do  net  let  it  boil.      Lastly,  add  the  stiffly-whisked  whites 
s,  then  turn  the  mixture  into  a  buttered  piedish,  and  bake  slowly 
from 

Time. — About    i£   hours.     Average   Cost,   od.     Sufficient   for   3   or  4 
>ns. 

1871.— MADEIRA    PUDDING.          (Fr.— Pouding   cu 
Madere.) 

Ingredients.     4  ozs.   of  bn\ul   in   sm.tll   dice.   2  ozs.  of  castor  B\ 
milk,    i    •  ful  Oi   Madeira  or  sherry,    , 

!    lemon  r-iul. 


956  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Mix  the  bread,  sugar  and  lemon-rind  together  in  a  basin. 
Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  on  the  beaten  eggs,  stirring  meanwhile,  add  the 
sherry,  and  pour  over  the  dice  of  bread,  etc.  Let  it  soak  for  15  or 
20  minutes,  then  pour  into  a  buttered  mould,  and  steam  gently  for 
2  hours.  Serve  with  custard,  or  wine  sauce,  or  jam  syrup. 

Time. — About  2^  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.    Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1872.— MARMALADE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  orange  marmalade,  8  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs, 
6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet,  2  eggs,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  baking 
powder,  a  little  milk. 

Method. — Mix  the  suet,  breadcrumbs,  baking-powder,  and  a  pinch 
of  salt  well  together.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  marmalade,  and 
when  well  mixed  stir  them  into  the  dry  ingredients.  Beat  the  mixture 
lightly,  and  if  at  all  stiff,  add  a  little  milk.  Turn  into  a  buttered 
basin  or  mould,  cover  with  greased  paper,  and  steam  from  2|-  to  2| 
hours.  Serve  with  marmalade,  cornflour,  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — About  3^  hours.    Average  Cost,  8d.    Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1873.— MARMALADE  PUDDING,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — i  large  tablespoonful  of  marmalade,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  flour,  i  dessertspoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  2  eggs,  i-|-  ozs.  of  butter, 
i|-  ozs.  of  sugar,  paste  No.  1667,  or  1668. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  smooth,  add 
the  eggs,  and  beat  well.  Stir  the  marmalade,  flour  and  breadcrumbs 
in  lightly,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a  piedish,  the  edge  of  which 
must  be  previously  lined  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  Apple  Amber, 
No.  1676.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  £  an  hour,  then 
dredge  well  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons. 

1874.— MARROW  PUDDING.         (Fr.— Pouding  a  ia 
Moelle.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  beef  marrow,  6  ozs.  of  bread- 
crumbs, 4  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  finely-shredded  mixed  candied  peel, 
2  ozs.  of  glace  cherries,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy  or  sherry,  3  eggs. 

Method. — Cream  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  sugar  together  until 
thick  and  smooth,  add  the  marrow,  breadcrumbs,  peel,  cherries  cut 
into  small  pieces,  brandy  or  sherry,  and  mix  well  together.  Whisk 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  them  lightly  to  the  rest 
of  the  ingredients.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  mould, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  £  an  hour.  Serve  with  a  suitable 
sauce. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  957 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6cl.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1875.— MERINGUE     PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding 

Meringue. 

This  name  may  be  given  to  any  pudding  covered  with  stiffly-whisked 
whites  of  eggs,  such  as  Apple  Amber,  Chester  Pudding,  Savoy  Pudding 
and  many  others. 

1876.— MILK   PUDDINGS.  (See    Rice    Pudding 

Recipe,  Tapioca  or  Sago  Pudding,  No.  1917, 
Custard  Pudding,  No.  1828,  and  Cornflour 
Pudding,  No.  1820.) 

1877.— MILITARY  PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  £  a  Ib.  of  breadcmmbs/ 
\  a  Ib.  of  moist  sugar,  the  finely-^  e  of  i  large  lemon, 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together,  turn  into  well-buttered 
mull  cups,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  J  of  an  hour. 
with  a  suitable  sauce.     If  preferred,  the  puddings  may  be  sti- 

i  he  same  length  of  time. 
Time. —  i    hour.     Average  Cost,    icxl.     Sufficient  for  8  or  9  persons. 

1878.— NEWMARKET  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  sponge  cakes,  2  ozs.  of  muscatel  raisins  halved. 
2  ozs.  of  mixed  peel  shredded,  i  oz.  of  currants,  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  s 

irge  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  2  or  3   tablespoon fuls  of  red  currant 
jelly. 

Method. — Make  a  custard  of  the  eggs,  sugar,  and  milk.  Slice  the 
sponge  cakes,  place  them  in  layers  in  a  well-buttered  mould,  and 

on  the  layers  add  raisins,  peel,  and  currants.    Pour  in  the  ci; 
cover  and  steam  gently  for  i  hour.     Warm  the  jelly  and  pour  it  over 
the  pudding,  just  before  serving. 

Time. — To  steam  the  pudding,  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1879.— NORFOLK  DUMPLINGS. 

Ingredients. —  Bread  dou^h,  boiling  water,  salt. 

Method. — Let   the  doiii^h  rise  to  the  same  degre<  n  making 

then  roll  it  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  very  small  egg.     i  Live 
ilted  rapidlv  boiling  water,  cook  the  dump- 
or  7  minutes,  and  once.     They  may  be  served  with 

jam,  treacle,  butter  and  negar  and  sugar,  or  good  gravy. 

Time. — To  cook,  6  or  7  mimr 


958  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1880.— NOUILLE  PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding    aux 

Nouilles.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  nouille  paste,  8  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an 
oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  finely-shredded  mixed  candied  peel,  6  eggs,  i 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Roll  the  nouille  paste  out  thinly,  cut  it  into  fine  strips, 
put  them  into  rapidly  boiling  salted  water,  to  which  the  butter  has  been 
added,  cook  for  10  minutes,  and  drain  well.  Meanwhile  cream  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and  smooth,  add  the 
peel,  vanilla  essence,  the  nouilles  when  sufficiently  cool,  and  lastly  the 
stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  mould, 
cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  steam  from  i£  to  if  hours.  Serve 
with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

1 88 1. —OATMEAL  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — i  tablespoonful  of  fine  oatmeal,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
flour,  i£  pints  of  milk,  i  egg,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  oatmeal  and  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk, 
boil  up  trie  remainder,  and  add  the  blended  oatmeal  and  flour.  Stir 
and  boil  gently  for  5  minutes,  add  salt  to  taste,  and,  when  cool,  put  in 
the  egg.  Turn  the  whole  into  a  buttered  piedish,  bake  gently  for  20 
minutes,  and  serve  with  cream  and  sugar,  or  golden  syrup. 

Time. — 40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1882.— OMNIBUS  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  3  ozs.  of 
stoned  raisins,  2  ozs.  of  golden  syrup  warmed,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  thoroughly  together,  pour  into  a 
well -buttered  basin,  and  steam  for  2  hours.  Serve  with  a  suitable 
sauce. 

Time. — 2\  hours.     Average  Cost,  4|d.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1883.— ORANGE    PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding    a 

TOrange.) 

Ingredients. — 4  oranges,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  cakecrumbs 
or  crumbled  sponge  cakes,  3  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  salt,  nutmeg,  paste 
No.  1667,  or  1668. 

Method. — Remove  the  rind  of  i  orange  in  exceedingly  thin  strips, 
place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  milk,  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Let 
the  preparation  infuse  for  about  20  minutes,  then  pour  it  over  the  cake 
crumbs,  add  the  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  sprinkling  of  nutmeg,  the  well- 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  959 

beaten  eggs,  and  the  juice  of  the  oranges.  Have  ready  a  piedish  \\ith 
the  edges  lined  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  Apple  Amber,  pour  in 
the  preparation,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  £  an  hour. 
Dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  iod.,  exclusive  of  the  paste. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1884.— OXFORD     PUDDING.  (See     Recipe    for 

College  Pudding,  No.  1817.) 

! 885.—  PARADISE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  coarsely-chopped  apples,  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  3  ozs. 
of  currants,  4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  3  eggs,  the  finely-grated  rind  of 
\  a  lemon,  salt  and  nutmeg  to  taste,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together,  turn  into  a  well- 
buttered  mould  or  basin,  and  steam  for  2  hours.  Serve  with  a  suitable 
sauce. 

Time. — 2*  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1 886.- PEARS,    BORDER    OF.          (Fr.— Bordure    de 
Poires  a  la  Reine.) 

Ingredients.  -2  lb.  of  small  stewing  pears,  £  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  ozs. 
of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter,  3  sponge  cakes,  2  whole  eggs,  i  yolk  of 
egg,  the  grated  rind  of  V  a  lemon,  i  inch  of  cinnamon,  i  gill  of  milk, 
carmine  or  cochineal. 

Method. — Peel  and  halve  the  pears,  can  fully  remove  the  cores,  place 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  syrup   made  with   the  loaf  sugar,  a  pint    of 
water,  a  few  drops  of  carmine,  and  cook  the  pears  gently  for  about  £  an 
hour,  or  until  tender.     Remove  the  pears,   reduce  the  syrup  by  rapid 
boiling,   and   re-heat    the  pears  in  it  before  servir. 
the  eggs  well,  and  add  the  castor  sugar,  lemon-rind,  milk,  and 
drops    of   cochineal.      Slice    the    sponge  cakes,    j.l.ice  tlu-in    in   a 
buttered  border  mould,  pour  in  the  custard,  and  bake  for  about  .40 
minutes  in  the  oven,   in    a   tin   containing  boiling  water   to   half    the 
depth  of  the  mould.     When  ready,  turn  out  on  to  a  hot  dish,  arrange 
the  pears  on  the  border,  strain  the  syrup  over  them,  and  serve. 

Time.-  About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  (K\.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons, 

1887.— PEARS  AND  RICE.  (/•>.— Poires   au   Riz 

a  la  Marquise.) 

Ingredients,      i   tin  of  j  ozs.  of  c 

•  an  oz.  of  butter,   about    i\  pints  of  milk,  j  eggs,  the    i 
rind  of   ],   ,\    Irmmi,   sail,    M.ira^chin..  ,oa.  if  liked. 


96o         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Pick,  wash  and  drain  the  rice,  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
pint  of  milk,  the  castor  sugar,  lemon-rind,  butter,  and  a  good  pinch 
of  salt.  Cook  until  tender,  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and 
when  sufficiently  cooked  press  the  rice  into  a  flat  round  mould,  and 
invert  on  to  a  hot  dish.  Meanwhile  strain  the  syrup  from  the  pears 
into  a  stewpan,  add  a  little  liqueur,  if  liked,  or  a  few  drops  of  vanilla 
essence,  boil  rapidly  until  considerably  reduced,  then  put  in  the  pears. 
Allow  them  to  remain  until  thoroughly  heated,  then  arrange  them  in  a 
pyramidal  form  on  the  top  of  the  rice,  add  a  little  syrup,  sprinkle  with 
castor  sugar,  and  cover  with  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Dredge 
well  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  meringue 
is  hardened  and  slightly  coloured. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

1888.— PLUM  PUDDING,  CHRISTMAS. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  8  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet, 
8  ozs.  of  sultanas  cleaned,  8  ozs.  of  raisins  halved  and  stoned,  8  ozs.  of 
currants  washed  and  dried,  4  ozs.  of  shredded  mixed  candied  peel,  4  ozs. 
of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs.  of  almonds  blanched  and  shredded, 
the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  4  eggs,  a  saltspoonful  of  nutmeg  grated,  -I-  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  wineglassful  of  brandy. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  stir  in  the  well-beaten 
eggs,  milk  and  brandy,  turn  the  mixture  into  2  well-buttered  basins, 
steam  from  5  to  6  hours. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  5  to  6  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  8  or  9  persons. 

!  889.— PLUM    PUDDING,    CHRISTMAS.        (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  6  ozs.  of  currants  washed  and 
dried,  6  ozs.  of  raisins  halved  and  stoned,  6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet, 

4  ozs..  of  mashed  potato,  4  ozs.  of  grated  raw  carrot,  4  ozs.  of  brown 
breadcrumbs,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  shredded  candied  peel,  \  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  i  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  2  eggs,  £  a  pint  of 
milk. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  over  the  browned  breadcrumbs,  and 
let  them  soak  for  \  an  hour.  Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add 
the  well-beaten  eggs,  and  the  milk  and  breadcrumbs  when  ready. 
Turn  the  mixture  into  2  well-buttered  basins,  and  steam  from  4  to 

5  hours. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  4  to  5  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  961 

1890.— PLUM    PUDDING,    CHRISTMAS.        (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — 5  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs,  of  finely- 
chopped  suet,  4  ozs.  of  raisins,  halved  and  stoned,  4  ozs.  of  currants, 
washed  and  dried,  4  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  shredded  candied 
peel,  2  ozs.  of  raw  carrot  grated,  i  level  tcaspoonful  of  finely-;. 
lemon-rind,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  i  good  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  about  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs. 

Method. — Mix   all    the   dry   ingredients   except    the   baking-powder 

together,  add  the  beaten  eggs  and  sufficient  milk  to  thoroughly  moisten 

the  whole,  then  cover,  and  let  the  mixture  stand  for  i  hour.     \Yhen 

,  stir  in  the  baking-powder,  turn  into  a  buttered  mould  or  basin, 

and  boil  for  6  hours,  or  steam  for  7  hours.     Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  6  to  7  hours.  Average  Cost,  i  s.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
9  or  10  persons. 

1891.— PLUM  PUDDING.     (Pouding  Anglais.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  6  ozs.  of  niu-ly- 
chopped  suet,  6  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  6  ozs.  of  raisins,  halved  .uui  si 
6  ozs.  of  currants,  washed  and  dried,  i  heaped  teaspoonful  of  lv 
powder,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  £  a  saUspoonful  of  ground  mace,  £  a 
saltspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  about  |  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  well  together,  add  sufficient 
milk  to  mix  into  a  very  stiff  batter,  and  turn  into  a  well-greased  basin. 
Boil  for  6  hours,  or  steam  for  at  least  7  hours. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  6  to  7  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for 
9  or  10  persons. 

1892.— PLUM  PUDDING.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of  <>ned, 

£  a  Ib.  of  treacle,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  i  heaping  teaspoon- 
ful of  baking-powder,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  a  good  pinch  of  salt. 

Method.— Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  well  together,  then  stir  iu  the 
slightly  warnu-d   treacle,  turn  the  mixture  into  a  grea 
steam  for  5  hours,  or,  if  preferred,  boil  for  4  hours. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  4  to  5  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

1893.— POUND  PUDDING. 

Ingredients.— i  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  i  Ib.  of  currants  cleaned, 
a  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs,  £  a  Ib.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of 
aspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  £  a  grated  nutmeg, 

I  I 


962  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  well  together,  and  add  a  little  more 
milk  if  necessary.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  mould,  and  boil  for  about 

3  J  to  4  hours. 

Time. — About  4|-  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  9  to  1 1 
persons. 

1894.— PRIMROSE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  flour  dried  and  sieved,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 

4  ozs.  of  butter,  2  large  or  3  small  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  \  a  lemon, 
vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Work  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and  creamy, 
then  stir  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  and  beat  the  mixture  lightly  for  about 
20  minutes.  Now  add  the  lemon-rind,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  a  few  drops 
of  vanilla  essence,  and  stir  in  the  flour  as  lightly  as  possible.  Steam 
in  a  well-buttered  mould  from  i£  to  i \  hours,  and  serve  with  custard, 
wine,  vanilla,  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.     Sufficient  for 

5  or  6  persons. 

1895.— QUEEN'S  PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding  a  la 

Reine.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs,.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
6  bananas  sliced,  3  eggs,  i  breakfastcupful  of  whole  meal,  i  breakfast- 
cupful  of  boiling  milk. 

Method. — Mix  the  suet,  sugar,  bananas  and  meal  together,  add  the 
milk,  and  cover  closely.  Let  the  preparation  stand  for  at  least  i  hour, 
then  add  the  eggs  and  a  little  more  milk  if  at  all  stiff,  and  beat  well. 
Turn  into  a  buttered  basin,  steam  gently  for  about  i  hour,  and  serve 
with  wine  sauce. 

Time. — To  steam  the  pudding,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d. 
to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1896.— QUEEN  OF  BREAD  PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  milk,  \  a  pint  of  breadcrumbs,  f-  of  an  oz.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  2  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  apricot 
or  raspberry  jam. 

Method. —  Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  over  the  breadcrumbs,  add  the  sugar, 
butter,  lemon-rind,  and  when  it  has  cooled  a  little,  stir  in  the  beaten 
yolks  of  eggs.  Place  the  mixture  in  a  buttered  piedish,  and  bake  for 
10  minutes  or  until  set.  Now  spread  on  a  thick  layer  of  jam,  cover 
with  the  stiffly- whisked  whites  of  eggs,  and  dredge  well  with  castor 
sugar.  Return  it  to  the  oven,  and  bake  until  the  meringue  hardens  and 
acquires  a  little  colour. 

Time. —  About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persona. 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  963 

1897.— RAISIN    PUDDING,    BAKED.        (Sec   Cottage 
Pudding,  No.  1821.) 

1898.— RAISIN  PUDDING,  BOILED.          (See  Baroness 
Pudding,  No.   1780.) 

1899.— RASPBERRY    PUDDING.      (Fr—  Pouding    de 
Framboises.) 

Ingredients. — Raspberry  jam,  £  a  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs,  £  of  a  Ib.  of 
castor  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  3  eggs,  brown  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  v  t  her  until  thick  and  sir 

boat  in  the  eggs  separately,  and  add  the  breadcrumbs.     Have  r« 
wril-buttered  plain  mould,  coat  it  completely  with  bro\\ :  'imbs. 

place  a  layer  of  the  preparation  on  the  bottom,  and  cover  it  thickly 
with  jam,  taking  care  that  it  docs  not  touch  the  sides  of  the  mould. 
i  until  the  mould  is  full,  letting  the  mixture  form  the  top 
in  a  moderate  oven  from  i  to  i^  hours,  and  serve  with  c 

iii  table  K 

Time.     From  ij  to  i|  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  jd.     Sufficient  for  5 
<>ns. 

1900.— RHUBARB  PUDDING.         (Sec  Apple  Pudding, 
No.   1761,  and  Damson  Pudding,  No.   1832.) 

1901.— RICE  PUDDING,  BAKED. 

Ingredients,  i  pint  «»f  milk,  3  tablespoon  hi  Is  <>t  n<<\  il  tubl<-vjH«mfnls 
of  su. 

Method.  Pk-k  and  w.i>h  \]  He  it  in  i,  add 

the  sugar,  milk,  and  a  small  pinch  of  salt.  Sprinkl  :.ice  lightly 

with  nutmeg,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  about  2  hours. 

Time.— About  Average  Cost,  ;,d.     Sufficient  for  3  or 

-Skim   milk,  and   |  an  oz.   of  butter,  or  a  level    tablcspoonful   of 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  new  milk. 

1902.— RICE  MERINGUE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  rice,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  or  to  tart 

milk.  2  eggs,  bay-: 
Method.      I'ut   the  milk  t  inio  a  !  cook 

gentlv  iin: 

!'.t    llir 
rr   with 
astor  sui: 

Time.     Abou;  Average  Cost,  (^\.     Sufficient  for  4  or 


964  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1903.— ROYAL  PUDDING.     (Fr.—  Pouding  Royale.) 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  fine  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  gill  of  milk,  4  yolks 
of  eggs,  5  whites  of  eggs,  i  dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of 
crushed  Savoy  biscuits,  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  and  cook 
and  stir  until  it  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpaii  clear.  Cool  slightly, 
add  the  sugar  and  vanilla,  the  yolks  of  eggs  one  at  a  time,  beat  well, 
and  then  stir  in  the  biscuit  crumbs.  Whisk  the  whites  stiffly,  stir  them 
lightly  in,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  souffle  mould. 
Cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  steam  very  gently  for  40  minutes, 
or  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  25  minutes.  Serve  with  wine  or  jam  sauce. 

Time. — To  cook  the  souffle,  from  25  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
iod.,  exclusive  of  the  sauce.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

1904.— ROLY-POLY  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  4-  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  baking  powder,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  2  to  3  tablespoonfuls  of 
jam. 

Method — Mix  the  flour,  suet,  baking-powder  and  salt  into  a  stiff 
paste  with  a  little  cold  water.  Roll  it  out  into  a  long  piece  about 
£  of  an  inch  thick,  spread  on  the  jam  to  within  i  inch  of  the  edge,  and 
moisten  the  sides  and  far  end  with  water.  Roll  up  lightly,  seal  the 
edges,  wrap  the  pudding  in  a  scalded  pudding-cloth,  and  secure  the 
ends  with  string.  Boil  from  i^-  to  2  hours,  or  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for 
half  that  length  of  time. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  boil,  from  2  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  5d. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1905.— SAVARIN. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  flour,  \  an  oz.  of  yeast,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  3 
ozs.  of  butter,  4  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  a  little  milk,  salt. 

Method. — Dry  and  sift  the  flour,  put  2  ozs.  of  it  into  a  warm  basin, 
add  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  make  a  well  in  the  centre.  Mix  the  yeast 
smoothly  with  a  little  tepid  milk,  add  it  to  the  flour,  work  into  a 
smooth  sponge  or  dough,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  it 
expands  to  twice  its  original  size.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  flour  into 
a  large  basin,  add  the  sugar,  warmed  butter,  the  eggs  one  at  a  time, 
and  a  little  tepid  milk  if  required.  Beat  well  for  10  or  15 
minutes,  add  the  dough  when  sufficiently  risen,  work  in  the  cream, 
and  beat  all  well  together  for  10  minutes  longer.  Have  ready  a 
well-buttered  border  mould,  sprinkle  the  inside  with  ground  rice  and 
fine  sugar  mixed  in  equal  quantities,  or  finely-shredded  almonds,  or 
cocoanut.  Half  fill  with  the  dough,  cover,  and  let  it  stand  in  a.  warm 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  965 

place  until  it   rises  nearly  to   the   top  of  the  mould,  then  bake  in  a 
hot  oven. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  Sufficient  for  5 
persons. 

I9o6.— SAVARIN     WITH     PINEAPPLE.  (Fr.- 

Savarin  a  1' Ananas.) 

Ingredients — Savarin  border,  prepared  as  directed  in  No.  1905,  pres. 
pineapple,  2  tablespoonfuls  apricot  marmalade,  glace  cherries.      For  the 
syrup:  I  of  a  pint  of  water,  3  ozs.  of  loaf  su^.ir. 

Method. — Prepare  a  border  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe.     Eoil 
the  loaf  sugar  and  water   to  syrup,    add  to  it  the  strained   a] 
marmalade,  simmer  until  sufficiently  thick,  then  put  in  the  pineapple, 
cut  into  dice,  and  allow  it  to  become  thoroughly  hot.     When  : 
place  the  savarin  on  a  hot  dish,  baste  it  well  with  the  syrup,  then  pile 
the  pineapple  in  the  centre,  garnish  with  cherries,  and  strain  over  the 
remainder  of  the  syrup.     Variety  may  be  obtained  by  using  apricots 
or  peaches  instead  of  the  pineapple. 

Time. —  About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  zs.  to  2S.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

1907.— SAVOY  PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding  a  la  Savoy.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  stale  Savoy  or  sponge  cake,  2  ozs.  of 
butter  warmed,  about  2  ozs.  of  shredded  mixed  peel,  i  oz.  of  castor 
sugar,  3  eggs,  about  £  of  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  £  glass  of  sherry  or 
Marsala. 

Method. — Pass  the  cake  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  add  to  it  all  the 
ingredients  except  the  whites  of  eggs,  and  beat  well.  Whisk  the  whites 
of  eggs  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  in,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a  buttered 
piedish.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  £  an  hour.  Or,  bake  the  mix- 
ture before  adding  the  whites  of  eggs,  which  afterwards  pile  in  a  rocky 
form,  dredge  liberally  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  until  set  and 
lightly  browned. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1908.— SAXON    PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding   a  la 

Saxonaise.) 

Ingredients. — 4  sponge  cakes,  6  macaroons,  18  ratafias,  4  eggs,  £  a 
pint  of  milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  i  glass  of  sherry,  2  ozs.  of  almonds, 

glace  cherries,  angelica,  vanilla  ess- 
Method. — Blanch,   peel,   shred   and   bake    the   almonds   until    ; 

ccl.      Butter  a  plain  charlotte  mould,  decorate  the  bottom  with 
9  of  cherries  and  strips  of  angelica,  and  sprinkle  the  sides  thickly 


966  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

with  the  prepared  almonds.  Fill  the  mould  with  alternate  layers  of 
slices  of  sponge  cake,  pieces  of  macaroon  and  ratafias.  Beat  the  eggs 
well,  add  the  milk,  cream,  wine,  and  a  few  drops  of  vanilla.  Pour  this 
into  the  mould,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  let  the  mixture  stand 
for  i  hour.  Then  steam  from  i^-  to  if  hours,  and  serve  with  fruit  syrup, 
German  or  other  suitable  sauce.  This  pudding  is  exceedingly  nice 
cold,  with  whipped  cream  as  an  accompaniment. 

Time. — About  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  25.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1909.— SEMOLINA     PUDDING.         (Fr.— Pouding    de 
Semoule.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  milk,  3  to  4  tablespoonfuls  of  semolina,  i 
tablespoonful  of  moist  sugar,  2  eggs,  bay-leaf  or  other  flavouring,  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  milk,  with  a  good  pinch  of  salt  and  the  bay-leaf, 
into  a  stewpan;  when  boiling,  sprinkle  in  the  semolina  and  cook  gently 
for  10  minutes,  stirring  meanwhile.  Cool  slightly,  remove  the  bay- 
leaf,  stir  in  the  sugar,  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  lastly  the  stiffly-whisked 
whites  of  the  eggs.  Turn  into  a  buttered  piedish,  and  bake  gently 
from  25  to  30  minutes. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  7d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

Note. — In  place  of  bay  leaf,  lemon  rind  or  cinnamon  may  be  used. 

1910.— SNOWDON  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet,  4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs, 
4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  raisins,  stoned  and  halved,  i  oz.  of  glace 
cherries  halved,  i  oz.  of  ground  rice,  2  eggs,  \  a  gill  of  milk,  the  grated 
rind  of  i  lemon,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade  or  jam,  \  a 
teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  salt. 

Method. — Decorate  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  well-buttered  mould 
or  basin  with  some  of  the  halved  cherries  and  raisins.  Put  the  re- 
mainder into  a  basin,  add  the  suet,  breadcrumbs,  sugar,  ground  rice, 
lemon-rind,  cinnamon,  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt.  Beat  the  eggs, 
stir  in  the  milk  and  marmalade,  and  when  well  mixed,  add  them  to 
the  dry  ingredients  and  beat  well.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the  pre- 
pared mould,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  steam  from  ij  to  i£ 
hours.  Serve  with  fruit  syrup  or  suitable  sweet  sauce. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

I9n._SOMERSETSHIRE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  eggs,  their  weight  in  flour,  and  the  weight  of  2  eggs 
in  castor  sugar  and  butter,  essence  of  vanilla,  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Follow  the  directions  given  for  making  Canary  Pud- 
ding. Turn  the  preparation  into  well-buttered  dariols  or  cups,  bake 
gently  for  20  minutes,  or  until  done,  and  serve  with  either  jam  or 
custard  sauce.  These  puddings  arc  sometimes  served  cold,  with  the 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  967 

inside  scooped  out,  and  the  cavity  filled  with  jam  or  stewed  fruit  and 
cream. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  Sd.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
persons. 

1912.— SPAGHETTI    PUDDING.          (See  Macaroni   or 
Spaghetti  Pudding,  No.  1870.) 

1913.-  SPONGE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 12  ozs.  of  flour,  8  ozs.  of  golden  syrup  slightly  warmed, 
4  ozs.  of  suet  finely-chopped,  i  level  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda, 
milk. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  soda  in  a  little  warm  milk.  Mix  the  flour 
and  suet  together,  stir  in  the  treacle,  add  the  soda,  and  a  little  more 
milk  if  necessary,  but  the  mixture  should  be  rather  stiff.  Turn  into  a 
greased  basin,  and  steam  or  boil  from  2^  to  3  hours. 

Time. — To  cook  the  pudding,  from  2%  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  7d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

ie. — See  Canary  Pudding,  another  variety  of  sponge  pudding. 

1914.— SPONGE   CAKE   PUDDING.  (See   Finger 

Pudding,  No.  1845,  Forest  Pudding,  No.  1846, 
Jenny  Lind  Pudding,  No.  1865,  and  Savoy 
Pudding,  No.  1907.) 

1915.— SUET  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 12  ozs  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  I  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  cold  water. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  suet,  baking-powder,  and  salt  together,  and 
add  water  gradually  until  a  rather  stiff  paste  is  formed.  Shape  it  into 
a  roll,  wrap  it  in  a  pudding-cloth,  which  must  be  previously  scaldrd 
and  well  dredged  with  flour  on  the  inner  side,  and  secure  the  ends  with 
string.  Put  it  into  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  about  2^  hours.  Serve 
with  jam,  treacle,  stewed  fruit,  or,  if  preferred,  good  gravy. 

Time. — About  2$  hours.  Average  Cost,  (K\.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

Note. — The  above  mixture  may  also  be  made  into  dumplings,  which  require 
boiling  for  two  hours.  For  savoury  dumplings,  see  Exeter  Stew,  No.  873. 

1916.— SWISS     PUDDING.  (Fr.—  Pouding    a    la 

Suisse.) 

Ingredients. — 6  large  sour  baking  apples,  about  8  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs, 
brown  sugar,  butter,  6  cloves. 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  slice  the  apples.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a 
buttered  piedish  with  breadcrumbs,  acid  a  layer  of  apple,  sprinkle  with 


968  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

sugar,  moisten  with  water,  and  add  i  or  2  cloves  and  a  few  small  pieces 
of  butter.  Repeat  until  all  the  materials  are  used,  letting  the  bread- 
crumbs form  the  top  layer.  Pour  on  a  little  oiled  butter,  cover  with  a 
greased  paper,  and  bake  gently  for  about  £  of  an  hour.  As  soon  as 
the  apples  begin  to  fall  remove  the  paper  to  allow  the  surface  to  brown. 
Time. — About  £  of  an  hour,  to  bake  the  pudding.  Average  Cost,  lod. 
to  is.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1917.— TAPIOCA  OR  SAGO  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tapioca  or  sago,  i 
tablespoonful  of  sugar,  or  to  taste,  2  eggs  (optional),  nutmeg,  salt. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk,  sprinkle  in  the  tapioca  or  sago,  stir  until 
boiling,  and  simmer  gently  until  it  becomes  clear,  stirring  occasionally. 
Add  the  sugar  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and  when  a  little  cool,  the  eggs, 
beaten.  Pour  into  a  greased  piedish,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  about 
•£  an  hour. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  5d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1918.— TIMBALES  OF  SEMOLINA.         (Fr.— Timbales 
de  Semoule.) 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  apricots,  or  an  equal  quantity  of  freshly 
cooked  fruit,  i  pint  of  water,  3  ozs.  of  semolina,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
3  whole  eggs,  angelica,  glace  cherries,  almonds,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream,  Maraschino,  vanilla  pod. 

Method. — Simmer  the  vanilla  pod  in  the  milk  until  sufficiently 
flavoured,  then  remove  it  (dry  it  and  keep  for  further  use),  sprinkle 
in  the  semolina  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  meanwhile.  Let 
it  cool  slightly,  then  add  the  sugar,  and  beat  in  separately  3  yolks  and 
i  white  of  egg.  Continue  the  beating  until  the  mixture  is  nearly  cold, 
then  add  the  cream  and  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  2  eggs.  Put  the 
preparation  into  well-buttered  timbale  or  dariol  moulds,  and  steam 
for  \  an  hour.  Meanwhile  heat,  between  2  plates,  as  many  halves 
of  apricots  as  there  are  timbales.  Boil  the  apricot  syrup  until  well 
reduced,  and  flavour  it  with  a  little  Maraschino,  if  liked.  "When 
ready,  turn  out  the  timbales  on  to  a  hot  dish,  place  4  an  apricot  on 
the  top  of  each,  decorate  with  shredded  almonds,  strips  or  leaves  of 
angelica,  and  halves  of  cherries,  all  of  which  should  be  previously 
prepared  and  warmed.  Strain  over  the  syrup,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  2s.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

I9I9._TRANSPARENT  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  yolks  of  eggs,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
apricot  jam. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and  smooth, 
then  add  each  egg  separately,  beating  meanwhile.  Place  a  layer  of 


SWEETS. 


i.    I  'Iain   Pudding.  3,   ("hi  i>tmu>  1'iulding. 


H* 


PUDDINGS. 


i.  Canary  Pudding.         2.  Baroness  Pudding.         3.  Lemon  Pudding. 


60 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  969 

this  preparation  in  the  bottom  of  6  well-buttered  dariol  moulds,  add 
to  each  a  dessertspoonful  of  apricot  jam,  and  cover  with  the  remainder 
of  the  mixture.  Steam  from  20  to  25  minutes,  let  them  cool  slightly 
before  turning  them  out,  to  lessen  the  probability  of  their  breaking, 
and  serve  with  custard  sauce. 

Time. — About  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

1920.— TREACLE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  8  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  2-  ozs.  of 
breadcrumbs,  treacle,  the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  i  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  salt. 

Method. —Mix  the  flour,  suet,  baking-powder,  and  a  good  pinch  of 
salt  together,  and  form  into  a  stiff  paste  with  cold  water.  Divide  it 
into  2  equal  portions;  with  one  line  the  basin,  from  the  other  portion 
cut  off  sufficient  paste  to  form  the  lid,  and  roll  the  remainder  out  thinly. 
Put  a  layer  of  treacle  in  the  basin,  sprinkle  liberally  with  breadcrumbs, 
and  lightly  with  lemon-rind.  From  the  rolled-out  paste  cut  a  round 
suffici'  e  to  rather  more  than  cover  the  treacle,  etc.,  in  the  1 

moisten  the  cd^es  of  it  with  water,  and  join  them  carefully  to  the 
lining  the  basin.     Now  add  another  layer  of  treacle,  breadcrumbs  and 
lemon-rind,  and  cover  with  pastry  as  before.     Repeat  until  the  pudding 
basin  is  full,  then  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  steam  for  2$  hours. 

Time. — From  2j  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  TS.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9 
persons. 

1921.— VANILLA    PUDDING.         (5>.— Pouding    a   la 
Vanille.) 

Follow  the  directions  given  for  making  custard  puddings,  and  flavour 
the  preparation  with  vanilla. 

1922.— VERMICELLI  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  vermicelli,  i  oz.  of  sugar,  or  to  taste,  2  eggs, 
i  pint  of  milk,  lemon-rind,  bay-leaf  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk  and  flavouring  ingredients  together,  add  the 
vermicelli  broken  into  short  pieces,  and  simmer  until  tender.     Now  take 
out  the  bay-leaf,  or  whatever  has  been  used,  add  the  sugar  and  eggs, 
mix  all  lightly  together,  and  pour  into  a  buttered  pie-dish.     Bak< 
moderate  oven  for  about  30  minutes,  then  sr 

Time.— About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1 923. -VICTORIA  PUDDING.        (Fr.— Pouding    a   la 
Victoria.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet,  4  ozs.  of  breadcrumb-, 
of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  apples,  4  ozs.  of  apricot  jam,  2  ozs.  of  finely- 


970         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

shredded  mixed  peel,  3  ozs.  of  dried  cherries  cut  in  quarters,  3  ozs.  of 
sugar,  4  eggs,  i  glass  of  brandy,  £  a  gill  of  cream. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  chop  the  apples  finely,  and  mix  with  them 
the  suet,  breadcrumbs,  flour,  peel,  cherries  and  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs 
well,  add  the  jam,  cream  and  brandy;  when  well  mixed,  stir  them  into 
the  dry  ingredients,  and  beat  well.  Pour  into  a  well-buttered  mould, 
cover  with  the  buttered  paper,  and  steam  from  i£  to  2  hours.  Serve 
with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — From  2  to  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  8  or 
9  persons. 

1924.— VIENNOISE  PUDDING.         (Fr.— Pouding  a  la 
Viennoise). 

Ingredients. — 5  ozs.  of  white  bread  cut  into  small  d:c3,  3  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  3  ozs.  of  sultanas  picked  and  cleaned,  2  ozs.  of  finely-shredded 
candied  peel,  i  oz.  of  almonds,  the  grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  4  yolks  of 
eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry,  caramel  (see  No.  155). 

Method. — Blanch,  shred  and  bake  the  almonds  until  well  browned. 
Heat  the  milk,  add  sufficient  caramel  or  burnt  sugar  to  make  it  a  deep 
nut-brown  colour,  then  pour  it  on  to  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs, 
stirring  meanwhile.  Mix  the  bread  dice,  sugar,  sultanas,  peel,  almonds, 
and  lemon-rind  well  together,  add  the  sherry  and  prepared  milk,  etc., 
cover,  and  let  it  stand  for  i  hour.  When  ready,  turn  the  mixture  into 
a  well-buttered  mould,  steam  for  about  2  hours,  and  serve  with  German 
custard,  arrowroot,  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — About  3^  hours,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

1925.— WASHINGTON    PUDDING.  (See    Canary 

Pudding.) 

Add  2  tablespoonfuls  of  raspberry  jam  to  the  ingredients  for  the 
same,  and  follow  the  directions  given. 

1926.— WELLINGTON  PUDDING.  (Fr.— Pouding 

a  la  Wellington.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs. 
of  brown  breadcrumbs,  4  ozs.  of  cleaned  and  picked  sultanas,  i  oz.  of 
finely-chopped  candied  orange-peel,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  5  eggs, 
i  gill  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  caramel  (see  No.  155),  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  ground  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  i  small  glass  of  Marsala  or  sherry.  Apri- 
cot or  other  suitable  sauce.  For  the  puree  :  i  Ib.  of  chesnuts,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  sugar,  vanilla. 

Method. — Mix  the  suet,  flour,  breadcrumbs,  sultanas,  peel,  sugar, 
cinnamon,  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg  together.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add 


RECIPES  FOR  PUDDINGS  971 

the  caramel  and  half  the  milk,  and  stir  into  the  dry  ingredients  with 
as  much  more  milk  as  may  be  needed  to  thoroughly  moisten  the  whole. 
Pour  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  border  mould,  cover  with  a  but- 
tered paper,  and  steam  from  2\  to  2f  hours.  Meanwhile  shell,  scald, 
and  skin  the  chesnuts,  cook  them  in  a  very  little  milk  until  tender, 
rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve,  sweeten  to  taste,  add  a  few  drops  of 
vanilla,  and  the  cream.  Invert  the  border  on  to  a  hot  dish,  pile  the 
puree  in  the  centre,  and  pour  the  sauce  round. 

Time. — From  3  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  js.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

1927.— WELSH  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  8  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs, 
8  ozs.  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  2  large  lemons,  and  the  finely-grated  rind 
of  i  lemon,  j  eggs. 

Method.  Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add  the  eggs,  and  a 
little  milk  if  the  mixture  appears  too  stiff.  Turn  into  a  buttered  basin, 
steam  or  boil  from  3^  to  4  hours,  and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — From  3^  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1928.— WEST  RIDING  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Jam,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
2  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  a  little  milk,  paste  No.  1667, 
or  1668. 

Method. — Line  and  decorate  a  picdish  with  paste  as  directed  in 
the  recipe  for  Apple  Amber,  p.  890.  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar 
together  until  thick  and  smooth,  and  add  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time. 
Beat  thoroughly,  then  stir  in  the  baking-powder  and  flour  as  lightly 
as  possible,  and  add  milk  gradually  until  the  mixture  drops  readily 
from  the  spoon.  Place  a  thick  layer  of  jam  on  the  bottom  of  the 
prepared  piedish,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  bake  from  i  to  i£  hours. 
Dredge  well  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

1929.— WINDSOR  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 6  apples,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  Carolina  rice, 
i  t< M-jKx.nful  of  lemon-juice,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon- 
rind,  4  whites  of  eggs,  milk. 

Method. — Boil  the  rice  in  milk  until  quite  tender,  and  drain  well. 

or  stew  the  apples  until  soft,  pass   them  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 

stir  in  the  sugar,  rice,  lemon-rind  and  lemon-juice.     Whisk  the  whites 

stiffiy,  stir  them  lightly  in,  and  turn  into  a  buttered  basin.     Steam  as 


972  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

gently  as  possible  for  about  40  minutes,  and  serve  with  custard  sauce 
made  with  the  yolks  of  the  eggs. 

Time. — To  steam  the  pudding,  about  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is. 
to  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1930.— YORKSHIRE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs,  4  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
salt,  dripping. 

Method. — Put  the  flour  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt  into  a  basin,  make  a 
well  in  the  centre,  break  in  the  eggs,  stir,  gradually  mixing  in  the  flour 
from  the  sides,  and  add  milk  by  degrees  until  a  thick  smooth  batter  is 
formed.  Now  beat  well  for  10  minutes,  then  add  the  remainder  of  the 
milk,  cover,  and  let  it  stand  for  at  least  i  hour.  When  ready  to  use, 
cover  the  bottom  of  a  pudding-tin  with  a  thin  layer  of  dripping  taken 
from  the  meat-tin,  and  while  the  tin  and  dripping  are  getting  thoroughly 
hot  in  the  oven,  give  the  batter  another  good  beating.  Bake  the  pud- 
ding for  10  minutes  in  a  hot  oven  to  partially  cook  the  bottom,  or,  if 
more  convenient,  place  the  hottest  shelf  from  the  oven  on  the  meat 
stand,  and  at  once  put  the  pudding  in  front  of  the  fire,  and  cook  it  until 
set  and  well-browned.  "  Yorkshire  "  pudding  is  always  cooked  in 
front  of  the  fire  ;  when  baked  in  the  oven,  the  term  "  batter  pudding  " 
is  applied  to  it  by  the  people  in  the  county  whence  it  derives  its  name. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1931.— YORKSHIRE    PUDDING      WITH      RAISINS. 
(See  Yorkshire  Pudding,  No.  1930.) 

Sultana  raisins  or  currants  maybe  sprinkled  in  after  the  batter  has 
been  poured  into  the  tin.  This  pudding  is  frequently  served  with  gravy, 
and,  as  a  rule,  before  the  meat. 

1932.— YORKSHIRE    PUDDING,    BOILED.  (See 

Batter  Pudding,  Boiled,  No.   1782.) 


Souffles 

I933.  —  APRICOT   SOUFFLE.  (Fr.— Souffle     aux 

Abricots.) 

Ingredients. — 6  fresh  or  tinned  apricots,  4  ozs.  of  Vienna  flour,  2  ozs.. 
of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  4  whites 
of  eggs. 


RECIPES  FOR  SOUFFLES  973 

Method. — Drain  the  apricots  well,  and  pass  them  through  a  hair 
sieve.  Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk  (some  of  the  milk 
may  be  replaced  by  apricot  syrup),  and  cook  over  the  fire  until  the 
mixture  no  longer  adheres  to  the  sides  of  the  stewpan.  Let  it  cool 
slightly,  then  beat  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the  sugar,  apricot  pulp, 
and  stir  in  as  lightly  as  possible  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs. 
Have  ready  a  well  buttered  souffle  mould,  turn  in  the  mixture,  and 
steam  slowly  from  40  to  45  minutes.  Unmould,  and  serve  with  a  suit- 
able sauce.  Send  to  table  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons. 

I934-— CHOCOLATE    SOUFFLE.        (Fr.— Souffle    au 
Chocolat.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  finely-grated  chocolate,  3  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs. 
of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  4  whites  of 
eggs>  i  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence,  custard,  or  other  suitable 
•t  sauce. 

Method. — Place  the  milk  and  chocolate  in  a  small  stewpan,  and 
simmer  gently  until  dissolved.  Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add 
the  chocolate  mixture,  and  boil  well.  Let  it  cool  a  little,  add  the 
vanilla,  sugar,  the  yolks  of  eggs  one  at  a  time,  give  the  whole  a  good 
beating,  then  stir  in  as  lightly  as  possible  the  stiffly- whisked  whites 
of  eggs.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  mould,  and  steam  gently  from 
45  to  50  minutes.  Serve  the  sauce  round  the  dish. 

Time. — To  prepare  and  cook,  from  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost, 
is.,  including  the  sauce.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

I935-—  CUSTARD  SOUFFLE. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  o/s.  of  flour,  -}  a  pint  of  milk,  4  eggs, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  add  the 
milk.  Boil  up  and  cook  over  the  fire  for  5  minutes,  stirring  briskly 
meanwhile,  then  add  the  sugar  and  beat  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Whisk 
the  whites  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  in,  turn  the  mixture  into  a  buttered 
piedish,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  20  minutes.  Serve  with 
wine  or  fruit  sauce. 

Time. — To  bake  the  souffle,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1936.— ORANGE     SOUFFLE.  (Fr.— Souffte     a 

TOrange.) 

Ingredients. —  i  orange,  3  ozs.  of  cakecrumbs,  3  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs, 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  J  of  a  pint  of  milk,  £  small 
glass  of  noyeau,  a  few  glace  cherries. 


974 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


Method. — Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  over  the  crumbs,  and  let  them  soak 
while  the  other  ingredients  are  being  prepared.  Cream  the  butter  and 
sugar  as  usual,  add  the  yolks  and  i  white  of  egg,  and  beat  well. 
Now  add  -J-  the  rind  of  the  orange,  grated  or  finely-chopped,  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  orange-juice,  noyeau,  and  the  cakecrumbs.  Turn  the 
mixture  into  a  buttered  souffle  dish,  and  bake  from  25  to  30  minutes 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Have  ready  the  remaining  white  whisked 
to  a  stiff  froth,  spread  it  lightly  over  the  surface  of  the  souffle,  dredge 
with  castor  sugar,  and  garnish  with  the  cherries.  Replace  in  the  oven 
until  the  meringue  acquires  a  little  colour,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

1937.— PINEAPPLE    SOUFFLE.  (Fr.— Souffle    a 

1' Ananas.) 

Ingredients. — Preserved  pineapple,  4  ozs.  of  Vienna  flour,  4  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  3  eggs,  2  inches  of  vanilla 
pod,  angelica. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  and  vanilla  pod  to  boiling  point,  then  draw 
the  stewpan  aside  for  \  an  hour  for  the  contents  to  infuse.  Meanwhile 
heat  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  over  the  fire 
for  4  or  5  minutes,  then  add  the  strained  milk,  and  stir  and  boil  well. 
Let  it  cool  slightly,  then  beat  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the  sugar,  2 
good  tablespoonfuls  of  pineapple  cut  into  small  dice,  and  very  lightly 
stir  in  the  stiffly- whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Have  ready  a  well-buttered 
souffle  mould  with  the  bottom  decorated  with  strips,  circles,  or  other 
fancifully-cut  pieces  of  angelica  and  pineapple,  pour  in  the  mixture, 
cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  steam  very  gently  from  45  to  60 
minutes.  Unmould  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible,  with  pineapple 
or  other  suitable  sweet  sauce. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1938.— PRUNE     SOUFFLE.  (Fr.—  Souffle     aux 

Pruneaux.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  prunes,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
\  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  almonds  blanched  and  shredded,  i  lemon, 
3  eggs. 

Method. — Wash  the  prunes  and  soak  them  in  cold  water  for  3  or  4 
hours.  Then  place  them  in  a  jar  with  the  lemon-rind  pared  as  thinly 
as  possible,  and  a  little  cold  water,  and  cook  until  tender.  When  cold, 
remove  the  stones,  and  cut  the  prunes  into  small  pieces.  Cream  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  and  sugar  together,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  half  of  the 


RECIPES  FOR  SOUFFLES  975 

prepared  almonds,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice  and  the  prunes,  and 
mix  well.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  half  of  it 
lightly  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a 
buttered  souffle  dish  or  piedish.  Bake  for  about  15  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven,  then  pile  the  remainder  of  the  whites  of  eggs  on  the 
top,  dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  scatter  on  the  almonds.  Replace 
in  the  oven,  bake  from  15  to  20  minutes  longer,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  lod.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

i939.—RASPBERRY     SOUFFLE.  (Fr.—  Souffle 

aux   Framboises.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  ripe  rasplu TI  K •-,  j  ozs.  of  cakecrumbs  or  bread- 
crumbs, 2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  rice  flour  or  cornflour,  -J-  an  oz. 
of  butter,  £  a  gill  of  cream,  4  eggs. 

Method. — Put  the  raspberries,  cream,  rice  flour,  and  sugar  into  a 
basin,  and  reduce  them  to  a  pulp  by  means  of  a  wooden  spoon.  Beat 
in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add  the  cakecrumbs,  stir  in  lightly  the  stiffly- 
whisked  whites  of  eggs,  and  turn  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered 
mould.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  from  25  to  30  minutes,  and  serve  as  quickly 
as  possible. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  jd.  to  is.  4d.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons. 

1940.— RICE   AND  APPLE   SOUFFLE.     (Fr.— Souffle 
de  Riz  aux  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  sour  cooking-apples,  2  ozs.  of  ground  rice, 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter,  3  eggs,  J  of  a  pint  of  milk,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  moist  sugar,  or  to  taste,  the  rind  of  \  a  lemon,  thinly  pared, 
i  clove,  £  an  inch  of  stick  cinnamon. 

Method. — Cook  the  apples  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  the  ir.oist 
sugar,  butter,  lemon-rind,  clove,  and  cinnamon  in  a  jar  placed  in  a  sauce- 
pan of  boiling  water,  and  when  soft  rub  them  through  a  hair  sieve. 
Meanwhile  mix  the  ground  rice  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil 
the  remainder,  add  the  blended  rice  and  milk,  and  simmer  gently  for 
i  5  minutes.  Now  add  the  sugar,  let  the  mixture  cool  a  little,  then  add 
each  yolk  of  egg  separately,  give  the  whole  a  good  beating,  and  lastly 
stir  in  verv  Imhtly  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Fill  a  \\.-ll- 
bmtered  souiHe  dish  with  alternate  layers  of  rice  and  apple  purtV, 
piling  the  last  layer  of  rice  in  a  pviamidal  form.  Dredge  well  with 
castor  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  30  minutes. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  25  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 


976  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1941.— SEMOLINA  SOUFFLE*  (Fr.— Souffle    dd 

Semouie.) 

Ingredients. — rj-  ozs.  of  semolina,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  ^  a  pint  of  milk, 
3  whites  of  eggs,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  the  rind  of  ^  a  lemon; 

Method. —  Simmer  the  lemon-rind  and  milk  together  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  add  the  Sugar,  sprinkle  in  the  Semolina,  arid  cook  Until  it  thickens* 
Remove  the  lemon-rind,  let  the  mixture  cool  slightly,  beat  in  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  and  stir  in  lightly  the  stiffly- whisked  whites.  Pour  into  a  well- 
buttered  mould,  and  steam  gently  for  about  i  hour.  Serve  with  jam 
or  custard  sauce. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  sd.,  exclusive  of  the  sauce. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons, 

1942.— STRAWBERRY  SOUFFLE.  (Fr.— Souffle 

de  Fraises.) 

Ingredients. — |  a  pint  of  strawberry  pulp  sweetened  to  taste,  £  a  Ib. 
of  strawberries  cut  into  dice,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  fine  flour, 
i£  ozs.  of  butter,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  4  whites  of  eggs,  i  gill  of  milk  or 
cream,  carmine. 

Method. — Reduce  the  strawberries  to  a  pulp  by  passing  them  through 
a  hair  sieve,  and  sweeten  to  taste  with  castor  sugar.  Melt  the  butter, 
stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  boil  well,  then  incorporate  the  sugar  and 
strawberry  pulp.  Now  beat  in  the  yolks  of  eggs  separately,  brighten 
the  colour  by  adding  a  few  drops  of  carmine,  stir  in  the  strawberries 
cut  into  dice,  and  lastly,  and  very  lightly,  the  stiffly-whisked  whites 
of  eggs.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  mould,  and  bake  in  a 
hot  oven  from  35  to  40  minutes.  Serve  with  a  suitable  fruit  syrup 
or  sweet  sauce. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons. 

*  1943.— VANILLA     SOUFFLE.  (Fr.— Souffle    a   la 

Vanille.) 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  fine  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  gill  of  milk,  3  yolks  of 
eggs,  4  whites  of  eggs,  i  dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  and  cook 
and  stir  until  the  mixture  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan  clean.  Let 
this  panada  cool  slightly,  add  the  sugar  and  vanilla,  the  yolks  of  eggs 
one  at  a  time,  and  beat  well.  Whisk  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir 
them  lightly  in,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered  souffle 
mould.  Cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  steam  very  gently  for  40 
minutes,  or  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  half  that  length  of  time.  Serve  with 
wine  or  jam  sauce. 

Time. —  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  sauce.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  OMELETS  977 

Omelets 

1944.— JAM    OMELET,  (See  Sweet  Omelet,  No. 

1950,  and  Omelette  Souffle,  No.  1945.) 

i945._OMELET     SOUFFLE.  (Fr.  —  Omelette 

Soufflee.) 

Ingredients. — 3  whites  Of  eggs,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i£  ozs.  of  castor  s 
£  of  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  warmed  jam,  £  of  a  teaspoon ful 
of  vanilla  essence,  butter. 

Method.— \York  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  sugaf  together  until 
creamy,  stir  in  the  flour  and  vanilla  essence,  and  lastly,  and  vety  lightly, 
•iffly-\vhisked  whites  of  eggs.  Pour  half  the  mixture  into  A 
well-buttered  souffte  dish,  place  in  jam,  and  the  remainder  of  the 
mixture,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  15  minutes.  Turn  it 
on  to  a  paper  dredge  with  vanilla  sugar  to  serve,  and  send  to  table 
in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  baked. 

Time. — From  nnutcs.   Average  Cost,  8 d.  Sufflc lent  for  3  persons. 

.  — The  use  of  flour  is  not  essential. 

1946.— OMELET   SOUFFLE,  CHOCOLATE.        (Fr.— 
Omelette  Soufflee  au  Chocolat.) 

Ingredients. —  i   tablespoonful  of  finely-grated  chocolate,  5  win; 

3  yolks  of  eggs,  2  ozs.  castor  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of 
vanilla. 

Method. — Cream  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  well  together,  add  the 
chocolate,  vanilla,  and  lastly  the  very  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  eggs. 
Turn  into  a  souffle-pan  coated  with  clarified  butter,  bake  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven,  dish  up,  and  serve  dredged  with  castor  sugar. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  10  to  12  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Suffi- 
cient for  3  or  4  persons. 

1947.— OMELET    SOUFFLE.  (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  eggs,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence  or  other  flavouring,  i  tablespoonful  of 
warmed  jam. 

Method. — Cream  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  sugar  well  together,  and 
add  the  flavouring.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
mix  them  as  lightly  as  possible  with  the  yolks,  etc.  Have  the  butter 
ready  heated  in  an  omelet  pan,  remove  any  scum  which  may  have 

and  pour  in  the  preparation.    Cook  over  a  quick  fire  until  i 
then  put  it  into  a  hot  oven  to  finish  cooking.  Turn  it  on  to  a  hot  dish, 
the  jam  in  the  centre,  fold  over,  dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and 
serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d,     Sufficient  for  . 


978  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

1948.— PLAIN  OMELET.          (See  Sweet  Omelet.) 

By  omitting  the  sugar,  and  adding  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  this 
mixture  may  form  the  basis  of  any  omelette  of  this  description  ;  herbs 
should  be  beaten  in  before  frying  :  mushrooms,  tomatoes,  pimientoes, 
kidney,  fish,  etc.,  should  be  cooked,  divided  into  small  pieces,  and 
folded  in  the  omelette  just  before  it  is  removed  from  the  pan. 

1949.— RUM  OMELET.    (Fr.—  Omelette  au  Rhum.) 

Ingredients. — 3  eggs,  -|-  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream, 
i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  i  small  glass  of  rum. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  cream,  sugar,  and  the  salt. 
Heat  the  butter  in  an  omelette  pan,  pour  in  the  eggs,  stir  until  they 
begin  to  set,  then  fold  quickly  towards  the  handle  of  the  pan.  Cook 
a  little  longer  to  brown  the  under  surface,  then  turn  on  to  a  hot  dish, 
pour  the  rum  round,  light  it,  and  serve  at  once. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  pd.     Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

1950.— SWEET  OMELET.      (Fr.— Omelette  Sucree.) 

Ingredients. — 4  fresh  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream  or  milk,  i  oz.  of 
fresh  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. —  Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  add  the  salt,  sugar,  and  cream  or 
milk.  Heat  the  butter  in  an  omelette  pan,  then  pour  in  the  eggs, 
stir  with  a  spoon  or  fork  until  they  begin  to  set,  and  fold  towards  the  side 
of  the  pan  in  the  form  of  a  crescent.  Cook  for  i  minute  longer,  then 
turn  on  to  a  hot  dish,  dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve  as  quickly 
as  possible. 

Time. — 6  or  8  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.    Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

Note. — Variety  may  be  introduced  by  adding  a  little  warm  jam  or  fruit- 
puree  ;  it  should  be  spread  lightly  in  the  centre  of  the  omelet  just  before  it  is 
folded  over. 

Fritters 

1951.— ALMOND  FRITTERS. 

(Fr. — Beignets    d'Amandes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  \  oz.  cornflour,  2  eggs, 
i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  vanilla. 

Method. — Stir  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  the  sugar  together  until 
creamy,  then  add  the  almonds,  vanilla,  cornflour,  and  the  whites  of 
eggs,  stiffly  whisked.  Have  ready  a  pan  of  hot  frying-fat,  clarified 
butter  and  olive  oil,  drop  in  the  prepared  mixture  in  teaspoon fuls, 
and  fry  until  they  become  a  pale  brown  colour.  Drain,  and  serve  as 
hot  as  possible. 

Time. — To  make  and  cook,  about  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  FRITTERS  979 

1952.— APPLE     FRITTERS.  (Fr.— Beignets    de 

Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — 4  apples,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
warm  water,  i  dessertspoonful  of  salad-oil,  or  oiled  butter,  i  white  of 

salt,  sugar,  frying-fat. 

Method.     Pare,  and  core  the  apples,  cut  them   into  slices    of 
thickness,  sprinkle  them  well  with  sugar,  and  let  them  remain  thus  for  £ 
hour.     Sift   the  flour  and  salt  in  a  basin,  add  the  oil  and   the 

illy,  stir  until  smoothly  mixed,  then  beat  well.  Let  the  mixture 
stand  for  at  least  i  hour,  and  then  stir  in  the  stihMy-whisked  white 
of  egg.  Dip  each  apple  ring  into  the  batter,  take  it  up  on  the  point 
of  a  skewer,  and  drop  at  once  into  hot  1  \\ly  until 

and  lightly-browned,  then  drain  well,  dredge  with  castor  sugar, 
and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — Altogether,   about  i  hour.     Average   Cost,   6d.     Sufficient   for 
5  or  6  person-. 

I953-—  APRICOT      FRITTERS.  (Fr.— Beignets 

d'Abricots.) 

Ingredients. — 10  to  12  apricots  (preserved  fruit  will  do),  castor  s 
ground  cinnamon,  frying-fat.     For  the  yeast  batter:  8  ozs.  of  fi* 
of  an  oz.  of  yeast,   i|  ozs.  of  oiled  butter,  milk,  *  a  teaspoon hil  ot 
i  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method.     Cream   the  yeast  smoothly  with  a  little  tepid  milk 
2  ozs.  of  flour,  mix  into  a  light  dough,  and  let   it   rise  in  a  warm  ; 
When  it  has  risen  to  nearly  twice  its  original  size  add  the  salt,  s 
warm  butter,  Hour,  and  as  much  tepid  milk  as  is  needed  to  form  a  li.nht 
dough.     Let  it  rise  again,  and  meanwhile  drain  the  apricots  from  the 
syrup.     Cover  the  halves  of  the  apricots  completely  with  a  thin  c<> 
HI  dough,  place  them  on  a  well-1  them  remain  near 

the  fire  for  about  \  an  hour,  then  fry  in  hot  iat  until  nicely  bro\ 
Drain  will,  sprinkle  with  castor  sugar  and  n,  then  » 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  1 1  d.     Sufficient  for  8  or  Q  persons. 

-For  a  <juii  kcr  iiu-t  IM>.!.  .,  ,•  }>r»-  r.ling  recipe, 
of  ap; 

1954.— BANANA    FRITTERS.  (Fr.— Beignets    de 

Bananes.) 

Ingredients.   -f»  linn    lun.m.i  batter  (see  No.  1645,  or  1647), 

fat. 
Method.- -Cut    eaih   banana  lengthwise  and  across,   thus  forming  4 

them  completely  \\ith  the  prepared  ba- 
in hot  fat  until  nicely  browned,  and  drain  well.     Sprinkle  \\ith  castor 
sugar 

Time.     Altogether,  aboul   .;  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.     Sufficient  for  5 
persons. 


980  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

1955.— BEETROOT    FRITTERS.       (Fr.— Beignets    de 
Betterave.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  cooked  beetroot,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  i  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  sugar  to  taste,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-rind,  a  good  pinch  of 
nutmeg,  frying-batter  (see  Apple  Fritters,  No.  1952),  frying-fat. 

Method. — Pass  the  beetroot  through  a  fine  sieve,  sprinkle  in  the  flour, 
add  the  yolks  of  eggs,  lemon-rind,  and  nutmeg,  and  sweeten  to  taste. 
Stir  over  a  slow  fire  for  10  minutes,  and  put  aside  until  cold.  Drop 
the  mixture  in  dessertspoonfuls  into  the  batter,  drain  slightly,  and  fry 
in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve 
dredged  with  castor  sugar.  Another  variety  of  fritters  is  prepared 
with  cooked  beetroot  thickly  sliced,  coated  with  sweet  or  savoury 
batter,  and  fried  as  directed  above. 

Tim3. — Altogether,  %  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  yd.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

1956.— BREAD    FRITTERS.  (Fr.— Beignets    de 

Pain.) 

Ingredients. — 2  French  dinner  rolls,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk, 
£  small  glass  of  Maraschino,  ground  cinnamon,  clarified  butter. 

Method. — Rasp  the  crusts,  cut  the  rolls  into  £-inch  slices,  and  place 
them  in  a  deep  dish.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  well,  add  the  milk  and 
Maraschino,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  pour  over  the  bread.  Let  it  soak 
for  about  15  minutes,  then  drain  well,  and  fry  golden  brown  in  the 
clarified  butter.  Drain,  sprinkle  with  castor  sugar  and  cinnamon, 
then  serve. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

I957._BREAD  AND   BUTTER   FRITTERS.        (Fr.- 
Beignets  de  Pain  au  beurre.) 

Ingredients. — 8  slices  of  thin  bread  and  butter,  jam,  frying-fat,  frying- 
batter  (see  p.  88 1),  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Make  the  batter  according  to  directions  given.  Spread 
half  the  slices  of  bread  and  butter  with  jam,  cover  with  the  remainder, 
and  cut  into  4  squares.  Dip  them  into  the  prepared  batter,  drop  them 
into  hot  fat,  and  fry  slowly  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Drain 
well,  dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — To  fry,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

1958.— CROQUETTES  OF  FRUIT.       (Fr.— Croquettes 
de  Fruit.) 

Ingredients.— £  of  a  Ib.  of  cooking  cherries,  damsons  or  plums,  i|  Ib. 
of  Savoy  biscuits  or  Genoese  cake  finely  crumbled,  4  ozs.  of  sugar, 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  a  good  pinch  of  cinnamon, 
egg  and  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 


RECIPES  FOR  FRITTERS  981 

Method. — Stone  the  fruit,  place  it  in  a  jar  with  the  sugar,  and  stew 
gently  until  tender  (see  Stewed  Fruit).  Strain  off  the  juice,  stir 
in  the  cakecrumbs,  lemon-rind  and  cinnamon,  add  juice  gradually 
until  the  right  consistency  is  obtained,  then  spread  on  a  dish  to  cool. 
Form  into  cork-shaped  pieces,  coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned  (breadcrumbs  may  be  used 
instead  of  cakecrumbs).  Serve  garnished  with  strips  of  angelica. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

1959.— CORNFLOUR  OR  CORNMEAL  FRITTERS. 

Ingredients. — 4  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  cornflour  or  corn  meal,  2 
eggs  well  beaten,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Mix  the  ingredients  smoothly  together,  drop  the  batter, 
a  tablespoonful  at  a  time,  into  hot  fat,  and  fry  until  crisp  and  lightly 
browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  with  jelly,  jam,  or  compote  of  fruit. 

Time. — \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  5d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

1960.— CURRANT    FRITTERS.         (Fr.— Beignets    de 
Groseilles  Rouges.) 

Ingredients. — 3  tablespoonfuls  of  currants,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  boiled 
rice,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  sugar  to  taste,  nutmeg,  3  eggs,  £  a  pint 
of  milk,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Mix  the  yolks  of  eggs  with  the  flour,  and  add  milk  gradually 
until  a  smooth  batter  is  obtained.  Whisk  the  whites  stiffly,  stir  them 
lightly  in,  add  the  currants,  rice,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  sweeten 
to  taste.  Drop  the  mixture,  in  small  quantities,  into  hot  fat,  fry  until 
crisp  and  lightly  browned,  and  drain  well.  Serve  piled  high  on  a  hot 
dish,  and  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar. 

Time. — From  10  to  15  minutes,  to  fry  the  fritters.  Average  Cost,  8d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

1961.— CUSTARD  FRITTERS. 

Ingredients. — i    tablespoonful  of  cornflour,    i    tablespoonful   of  line 
flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk, 
i   saltspoonful  of  salt,  vanilla  essence,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  fr\ 
fat. 

Method.— Mix  the  flour  and  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk, 
boil  up  the  remainder,  and  pour  it  over  the  flour,  stirring  meanwhile. 
Replace  in  the  stewpan,  simmer  gently  for  4  minutes,  add  the  sugar 
and  salt,  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs.  Cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes, 
add  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence,  and  spread  the  mixture  on  a  dish 
to  the  depth  of  £  an  inch.  When  cold,  cut  into  small  rounds,  coat  them 


982  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  lightly 
browned.     Servo  with  wine  or  jam  sauce. 

Time. — To  fry  the  fritters,  about  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  i  good  dish. 

1962.— FRIED  PUFFS.  (See  Souffle  Fritters,  No.  1973.) 
1963.— FRUIT  FRITTERS.      (See  Apple  Fritters,    No. 
1952,     Apricot    Fritters,    No.     1953,  Banana 
Fritters,  No.   1954,    and   Gooseberry    Fritters, 
No.  1965.) 
1964.— GERMAN  FRITTERS. 

Ingredients. — Slices  of  stale  bread,  eggs,  and  to  each  one  add  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk  and  sugar  to  taste,  butter,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  crust,  and  cut  the  bread  into  inch- wide  strips. 
Soak  them  in  the  milk  and  egg  mixture,  drain  well,  and  fry  them  in 
hot  butter.  Roll  in  castor  sugar,  and  serve  piled  on  a  hot  dish. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  i  good  dish,  about  6d.,  including  the 
butter  for  frying. 

1965.— GOOSEBERRY  FRITTERS.         (Fr.— Beignets 
de  Groseilles  Vertes.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  large  gooseberries,  frying-fat.  For  the  batter  : 
2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  white  of  egg,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Sift  the  flour  into  a  basin  and  add  the  salt,  then  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  cream  and  water  gradually,  thus  forming  a  smooth  batter. 
Let  it  stand  for  at  least  i  hour,  stir  the  stiffly-whisked  white  of  egg, 
and  put  in  the  gooseberries.  Take  up  2  or  3  at  a  time  by  means  of  a 
tablespoon,  lower  them  gradually  into  the  hot  fat,  and  withdraw  the 
spoon  without  separating  them.  Fry  a  golden-brown,  drain  well, 
sprinkle  with  sugar,  dish  up,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

1966.— INDIAN       FRITTERS.          (Fr.— Beignets      a 
Tlndienne.) 

Ingredients. — 3  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  4  eggs,  the  whites 
of  2  eggs,  jam  or  jelly,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Stir  into  the  flour  sufficient  boiling  water  (about  £  a  gill) 
to  form  a  stiff  smooth  paste.  Let  it  cool,  then  break  in  the  eggs,  and 
beat  thoroughly.  Fill  a  dessertspoon  with  the  mixture,  form  a  cavity, 
fill  it  with  jam  or  jelly,  and  afterwards  cover  completely  with  the 
mixture.  Fry  in  hot  fat,  drain  well,  arid  serve  immediately. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  5d.,  exclusive 
of  the  jam.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  FRITTERS  983 

!  967.— JELLY  FRITTERS.  (See  Indian  Fritters,  No. 
1966.) 

1968.— ORANGE    FRITTERS.  (Fr.— Beignets 

d'Oranges.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  oranges,  castor  sugar,  frying-fat,  frying-batter 
(see  Apple  Fritters,  No.  1952.) 

Method. — Prepare  the  batter  as  directed.  Remove  the  peel  and  pith 
from  the  oranges,  and  divide  them  into  pieces  containing  2  or  3  sections, 
according  to  size.  Dip  them  in  the  batter,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  golden- 
brown,  and  drain  well.  Dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve  as  quickly 
as  possible. 

Time. — To  fry  the  fritters,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

1969.— PINEAPPLE  FRITTERS.  (See  Apple  Fritters, 
No.  1952,  Apricot  Fritters,  No.  1953,  and 
Banana  Fritters,  No.  1954.) 

I97o.— PLAIN  FRITTERS.       (Sec  Souffle  Fritters,  No. 

I973-) 

1 97 1. —POLISH  FRITTERS.  (Fr.— Beignets  a  lr. 
Polonaise.) 

Ingredients. —  Pancakes,  No.  1646,  apricot  marmalade,  breadcrumbs, 
crushed  macaroons,  i  egg,  castor  sugar,  ground  cinnamon,  fryini;- 
fat. 

Method.— Make  the  pancakes  as  directed,  spread  them  with  apricot 
marmalade,  and  roll  up  firmly.  Trim  oil  the  ends,  and  cut  each  pan- 
cake across  in  halves.  Mix  the  breadcrumbs  and  macaroons  together, 
having  £  of  the  former  and  £  of  the  latter.  Coat  each  piece  of  pancal.c 
carefully  with  egg,  roll  in  the  crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely 
brown.  Drain  well,  sprinkle  with  cinnamon  and  castor  sugar,  and 
serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  md.     Sufficient  for 4 or  5  persons. 

1972.— RICE  FRITTERS.       (Fr.— Beignets  de  Riz.) 

Ingredients  — 3  ozs.  of  rice,  i£  ozs.  of  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  butter,  3  ozs. 
of  orange  marmalade,  2  e^s,  i\  pints  of  milk,  frying-batter  (see  No. 
1 645},  frying-fat. 

Method. — Simmer  the  rice  in  the  milk  until  the  whole  of  it  is  absorbed. 

add  the  sugar,  butter,  marmalade  and  eggs,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for 

minutes.     Spread  the  mixture  on  a  dish  to  the  thickness  of  \  an 

inch,  and,  when  cold,  cut  it  into  strips  or  squares.     Dip  these  in  b.-ittrr, 

fry  in  hot  fat  until  crisp,  drain  well,  then  sen 

Time. — To  cook  the  rice,  about  I  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 


984  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

I973.—SOUFFLE  FRITTERS.     (Beignets  Souffles.) 

Ingredients. — Choux  paste,  No.   1650,  frying-fat,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Prepare  the  paste  as  directed,  drop  teaspoonfuls  of  it  into 
hot  fat,  and  fry  rather  slowly  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Drain 
well,  dredge  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  fry,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  pd.  to  lod.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

1974.— SPANISH       FRITTERS.  (Fr.— Beignets 

Espagnoles.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  4-  an  oz.  of  yeast,  i  egg,  milk,  2  ozs.  of 
butter  warmed,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Moisten  the  yeast  with  a  little  lukewarm  water,  add  the 
egg,  and  stir  it  into  the  flour.  Sprinkle  in  the  salt,  mix  and  beat  well, 
adding  milk  gradually  until  a  very  light  dough  is  formed,  then  cover 
and  set  aside  in  a  warm  place  to  raise  for  2  or  3  hours.  When  ready, 
work  iii  the  butter,  shape  the  dough  into  small  balls,  and  fry  in  hot  fat 
until  crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Serve  with  sweet  sauce. 

Time. — From  2%  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

I975-— STRAWBERRY  FRITTERS.      (See  Gooseberry 
Fritters,  No.   1965.) 


PUDDINGS. 


*    *  %  - 


i.     Caramel  Pudding.         2.     Cocoanut  Amber.         3.     Ginger  Creams. 
61 


SWEET  FRITTERS. 


i.  Rice  Fritters.         2.  Apple  Fritters.          3.  Banana  Fritters. 


62 


COLD    SWEETS 


CHAPTER    XXXIII 

Jellies,  Creams,  Cold  Sweets,  Ices,  Water  Ices,  Sorbets, 
Mousses,  Ice  Puddings,  etc. 

Preparation  of  Moulds. — Moulds,  whether  intended  for  creams  or 
jellies,  should  be  thoroughly  clean,  and  when  possible  rinsed  with  cold 
water,  before  being  used.  In  preparing  them  for  decorated  creams, 
they  are  usually  coated  with  a  thin  layer  of  jelly.  To  do  this  quickly 
and  satisfactorily  it  is  necessary  that  the  moulds  should  be  quite  dry, 
perfectly  cold,  and  the  jelly  on  the  point  of  setting  when  put  into  the 
mould,  which  is  turned  over  and  over  until  thinly,  but  completely, 
coated.  The  decoration  is  a  matter  of  taste;  it  may  consist  of  pistachio 
shredded  or  finely-chopped,  almonds,  glace  cherries,  etc.,  and  may  afford 
no  indication  of  the  composition  of  the  cream.  But  just  as  frequently 
the  decoration  consists  of  fancifully  cut  pieces  of  the  fruit  which, 
reduced  to  a  puree,  forms  the  basis  of  the  cream.  This  branch  of  cookery 
affords  almost  unlimited  scope  for  display  of  artistic  taste.  Success 
in  this  direction  depends  largely  on  a  suitable  combination  of  contrast- 
ing or  harmonising  colours,  and  the  decoration  being  neat  and  uni- 
formly disposed.  Each  section  of  the  mould  must  be  decorated  separ- 
ately, and  the  decoration  fixed  firmly  by  means  of  a  little  cool  jelly, 
which  must  be  allowed  to  set  before  changing  the  position  of  the  mould. 
For  this  reason  the  process  is  a  slow  one  unless  the  mould  meanwhile 
rests  upon  and  is  surrounded  by  ice.  Without  this  aid  the  task  is 
almost  an  impossible  one  in  hot  weather. 

Gelatine. — Much  has  been  written  on  the  subject  of  gelatine.  Held 
at  one  time  in  high  estimation  as  a  food,  it  was  afterwards  considered 
of  no  value  because  it  could  not  unaided  sustain  life.  The  object  of 
the  experiments  which  ultimately  led  to  this  conclusion  was  to  ascertain 
the  relative  value  of  the  albuminoids  and  gelatinoids.  Liebig  found 
that  animals  fed  on  the  latter  substance  died  of  starvation;  but  more 
recent  investigations  have  discovered  that  gelatine  is  a  valuable  nutrient, 
for,  although  its  elements  lack  the  life-sustaining  properties  of  the 
albuminoids,  they  may  to  a  large  extent  replace  these  nitrogenous 
bodies  in  many  constructive  processes  of  the  body.  Hence,  gelatine 
is  now  regarded  as  an  albumen  economiser  or  albumen-sparing  food. 

985 


986  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

The  gelatine  of  commerce  is  prepared  from  the  bones,  etc.,  of  animals 
and  certain  other  substances.  It  is  obtainable  in  sheets,  strips,  and 
powder,  and  the  best  qualities  are  almost  entirely  free  from  any  un- 
pleasant taste.  Of  the  three  forms  in  which  it  is  sold,  the  sheet  or 
leaf  gelatine  is  to  be  preferred,  as  it  dissolves  more  readily,  but 
the  packet  gelatine  may  be  substituted  for  leaf  gelatine  in  all 
the  following  recipes.  However,  when  doing  so,  rather  less  than 
the  stated  quantity  must  be  used,  and  two  or  three  hours'  soaking 
should  be  allowed.  It  is  always  best  to  soak  the  gelatine  first,  and  then 
stir  it  in  a  small  saucepan  by  the  side  of  the  fire  in  a  very  small  quantity 
of  water  until  dissolved.  Gelatine  varies  considerably  in  strength, 
therefore  it  is  impossible  to  state  EXACTLY  how  much  will  stiffen  a 
given  amount  of  liquid  under  varying  conditions.  A  little  more  is 
required  in  summer  than  in  winter,  and  when  the  cream  or  jelly  is 
to  be  put  into  one  large  mould  instead  of  several  small  moulds;  but  at 
all  times  it  should  be  sparingly  used,  for  an  over-stiffened  cream  or  jelly 
is  almost  uneatable. 

Jellies. — Jellies  may  be  described  as  solutions  of  gelatine  in  water, 
with  wine,  fruit,  and  other  additions,  and  their  clear,  brilliant  trans- 
parency one  of  their  chief  recommendations.  However,  jellies  of 
this  class  do  not  comprise  the  whole  list,  for  in  addition  there  are  the 
opaque  nourishing  milk  and  egg  jellies,  and  also  those  made  of  apples 
and  other  fruit.  Calf's  foot  jelly,  which  is  stiffened  by  the  gelatine 
extracted  from  the  feet  by  boiling,  has  the  advantage  of  being  per- 
fectly pure,  but  it  is  not  more  nourishing  than  the  jelly  made  from 
bought  gelatine.  When  nourishing  jelly  is  required,  it  is  better  made 
from  good  veal  stock.  For  ordinary  garnishing  and  masking  purposes, 
jelly  made  from  leaf  gelatine  is  more  frequently  employed  than  that 
made  from  meat.  A  plain  lemon  jelly  answers  admirably  for  coating 
the  moulds  for  creams;  and  variously  coloured  and  flavoured,  it  forms 
the  basis  of  many  other  jellies.  By  adding  a  little  gold  and  silver  leaf 
or  a  few  drops  of  yellow,  red,  or  green  vegetable  colouring  matter, 
considerable  variety  may  be  introduced  at  small  cost.  Pleasing  effects 
may  be  produced  by  filling  the  projecting  divisions  of  a  mould  with 
gold,  silver,  or  coloured  jelly,  and  the  body  of  the  mould  with  jelly 
that  differs  either  in  colour  or  character.  Of  course  the  colours  must 
be  blended  artistically;  bright-coloured  creams,  like  strawberry,  should 
be  very  simply  decorated;  and  the  creamy- white  of  the  almond  or  the 
delicate  green  of  the  pistachio  nut,  imbedded  in  the  amber-hued  jelly 
with  which  the  mould  is  lined,  contrast  favourably  with  chocolate,  as 
also  does  finely  flaked  gold  leaf. 

To  Clear  Jelly. — The  agent  employed  for  this  purpose  is  albumen, 
of  which  substance  the  white  of  egg  is  largely  composed.  The  shells 
and  lightly-beaten  whites  of  eggs  are  added  to  the  water,  wine,  etc., 
when  cold,  the  whole  being  continuously  whisked  while  coining  to  the 
boil.  At  a  temperature  of  160°  F.,  the  albumen  coagulates,  and  as  the 


RECIPES   FOR  COLD    SWEETS  987 

hardened  particles  rise  to  the  surface  they  entangle  and  carry  with 
them  all  the  insoluble  substances  with  which  they  come  in  contact; 
this  forms  the  scum  and  the  filtering  medium,  through  which  the  jelly 
must  be  afterwards  passed  and  repassed  until  clear.  The  jelly  should 
always  be  allowed  to  simmer  for  a  short  time  after  it  reaches  boiling 
point,  but  it  must  on  no  account  be  whipped,  stirred,  or  othe 
disturbed.  A  little  lemon-juice  or  any  other  acid  assists  in  the  co- 
agulation of  the  albumen. 

Straining  Jelly. — For  this  purpose  a  jelly-stand  and  bag  are  desirable 
but  not  indispensable,  for  an  inverted  chair  and  a  clean  linen  cloth 
may  be  made  to  do  duty  instead.  Whichever  is  used,  it  must  be 
previously  scalded  to  prevent  the  jelly  setting  while  running  through; 
and  on  a  cold  day,  when  the  jelly  runs  through  slowly,  it  is  advisable 
to  place  a  basin  of  hot  water  in  the  midst  of  it  to  keep  it  warm.  The 
jelly-bag  or  cloth  must  never  be  squeezed,  as  a  very  slu-.ht  pi 
will  force  through  the  particles  of  scum,  and  thus  i  jelly 

clou<: 

Creams.  -The  term  cream  is  used  to  describe  compounds  of  cream 
and  fruit,  Iruit-puree,  etc.,  or  custards,  variously  flavoured 
with  gelatine,  and  more  or  less  elaborate!  ted.     For  thi 

pose  double  cream  is  required,  that  is,  cream  skimmed  off  milk  that 
<>od  for  24  ho  or   been    well    drained   from    the 

milk  after  being  separated.      Cr  •  lore    quickly  ul.<; 

stiff  froth  when  cold,  and  the  air  introduced  by  whipping  should 
be  as  cold  as  possible.  The  process  should  not  be  •  1  one 

moment  after  the  proper  degree  of  stiffness  is  obtained; 

needed  in  this  respect  in  warm  weather,  when  the  cream,  i: 
whipped,  is  apt   to  turn  rat  dy   to  butter.     Apart   from   the 

manipulation  of  the  cream,  an  important  factor  in  all  j  >ns  of 

ption  of  which  it  forms  a  part,  there  are  one  or  two  points 
which  need  caretul  attention.     The  gelatine,  dissolved  in  a  little  I 
must  he  added  at  a  certain  temperature,  for  if  it  be  too  hot  it  causes  the 
cn-am  to  lose  some  of  its  lightness;  if  too  cold,  it  .all  hard  lumps 

•  intimately  mixed  with  thr  \\holr.     And  again,  after 
the  gelatin  1.  the  cream  preparation  must  be  stirred  until 

on  the  point  of  setting,  moi  larlv  so  when  it   contains  fruit, 

etc.,  which  would  otherwise  sink  to  the  bottom 

of  the  mould.  On  the  other  hand,  it  the  mixture  i-  allowed  to  become 
too  cold,  it  does  not  take  the  shape  of  the  mould.  It  available,  the 
mould  should  stand  in  an  ice  cave  or  on  ice  until  th-  'irmly. 

When  crrams  have   to  KM    without   this  aid,  tli 

To  Unmould  Jellies  and  Creams.     It  is  mu.  to  dip  the  mould 

it  IN  n«  (  psanry  that  the  top  ot 
should  be  after \s  u<N  dri^d  with  iarp  "  up  and 


988  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

down  "  jerk  will  instantly  detach  the  mould  of  cream  or  jelly,  which 
should  at  once  be  placed  on  a  cold  dish,  the  hand  being  gently  with- 
drawn. In  turning  out  a  border  mould  too  large  to  be  covered  by  the 
hand,  the  dish  and  mould  together  may  be  shaken  sharply  up  and  down 
until  the  border  is  detached. 

Sweets  of  this  description  are  usually  garnished  with  a  macedoine 
of  fruit,  whipped  cream,  or  jelly.  As  a  rule  the  jelly  is  chopped,  and 
the  more  coarsely  the  better  is  the  effect,  for  large  pieces  reflect  the 
light,  whereas  finely-chopped  jelly  has  a  slightly  opaque  appearance. 

Freezing  Machines. — Recent  years  have  introduced  a  variety  of 
machines  for  making  ices,  but  the  ordinary  old-fashioned  pewter 
freezing  pot  still  holds  its  own,  and  deservedly  so,  for  it  is  reliable 
and  satisfactory  in  every  way,  although  its  use  entails  a  little  more 
labour  on  the  operator,  and  the  process  is  slower  than  with  the  newly- 
invented  machines.  Except  in  the  case  of  souffles,  a  pewter  pot  and 
pewter  mould  for  freezing  should  always  be  used;  neither  copper  nor 
tin  should  come  in  contact  with  the  ice.  Nearly  all  the  machines  in 
present  use  are  supplied  with  an  outer  compartment  constructed  to 
hold  the  ice  and  salt,  and  an  inner  receptacle  in  which  the  mixture 
to  be  frozen  is  placed,  and  revolved  by  means  of  a  handle. 

Freezing  Mixture. — The  materials  usually  employed  for  this  purpose 
are  ice  and  coarse  salt,  or  freezing  salt,  the  correct  proportions  being 
i  Ib.  of  salt  to  7  or  8  Ib.  of  ice.  More  salt  than  this  is  often  added 
with  a  view  to  making  the  mixture  freeze  more  quickly,  which  it  does 
for  a  short  time,  but  the  large  proportion  of  salt  causes  the  ice  to 
speedily  melt,  and  the  freezing  operation  comes  to  a  standstill  unless 
the  ice  is  frequently  renewed.  The  ice  tub  or  outer  compartment  of 
the  freezing  machine  must  be  filled  with  alternate  layers  of  crushed 
ice  and  salt.  A  good  layer  of  ice  at  the  bottom  of  the  tub  enables  the 
freezing  pot  to  turn  more  easily  and  more  quickly  than  if  it  were  placed 
on  the  bare  wood. 

The  following  mixture  may  be  used  for  freezing  purposes  when  ice 
is  not  procurable  :  To  2  parts  of  sulphate  of  soda  add  i  part  of  muriate 
of  ammonia,  and  i  part  of  nitrate  of  potash.  Each  ingredient  should 
be  pounded  separately  in  a  mortar.  4  ozs.  of  this  mixture  added  to 
i  gallon  of  water  will  be  found  a  useful,  though  somewhat  expensive, 
substitute  for  ice  and  salt. 

Preparation  of  Ices. — The  mixture  to  be  frozen  is  placed  in  the  freezing 
pot  or  inner  receptacle  of  the  freezing  machine,  and  the  lid  firmly 
secured.  When  the  vessel  has  been  quickly  turned  for  a  short  time, 
a  thin  coating  of  ice  will  have  formed  on  the  sides.  This  must  be  scraped 
down  with  the  spatula,  and  well  mixed  with  the  liquid  contents,  and 
as  soon  as  another  layer  has  formed  it  must  be  dealt  with  in  the  same 
manner.  This,  and  the  turning,  is  continued  until  the  mixture  ac- 
quires a  thick  creamy  consistency,  when  it  is  ready  for  moulding.  To 
ensure  success  the  following  rules  should  be  observed— 


RECIPES   FOR  COLD  SWEETS  989 

1.  Avoid  putting  warm  mixtures  into  the  freezing  pot,  for  the  heat, 
penetrating  through  the  metal,  would  e  ire  to  molt. 

2.  Add  sweetening  ingredients  with  discretion;  too  much  sugar  or 
sweet  syrup  prevents  the  mixture  freezing  properly. 

3.  Avoid,  as  much  as  possible,  the  use  of  tin  and  copper  utensils; 

;re  apt  to  spoil  both  the  colour  and  the  flavour  ot 

4.  Carefully  wipe  the  lid  of  the  freezer  before  raising  it,  so  as  to 
prevent  any  salt   getting  into  the  inixt; 

Moulding  Ices. — The  ice,  in  the  semi-solid  condition  in  which  it  is 
taken  from  the  freezing  machine,  is  put  into  dry  moulds,  and  \\cll 
u  and  pressed  down  in  the  shape  of  them.  If  there  is  the  least 
doubt  about  the  lid  fitting  perfectly,  it  is  better  to  seal  the  opening 
with  a  layer  of  lard,  so  as  to  effectually  exclude  the  salt  and  ice.  In 
any  case  the  mould  should  be  wrapped  in  2  or  3  folds  of  kitchen  paper 
when  the  freezing  has  to  be  completed  in  a  pail.  I  part  of  salt  should 
be  added  to  3  parts  of  ice,  and  the  quantity  must  be  sufficient  to  com- 
pletely surround  the  mould.  It  should  be  kept  covered  with  ice  and 
salt  for  3  or  4  hours,  when  it  will  be  ready  to  unmould.  When  a 
charged  ice  cave  is  available,  the  ice  is  simply  moulded,  plac 
the  cave,  and  kept  there  until  sufficiently  frozen. 

Unmoulding  Ices. — Ices  should  be  kept  in  the  moulds,  buried  in  ice, 
until  required.  When  ready  to  serve,  remove  the  paper  and  the  lard 
when  it  has  been  used,  dip  the  mould  into  cold  water,  and  turn  the  ice 
on  to  a  dish  in  the  same  way  as  a  jelly  or  cream. 

Varieties  of  Ices. — Ices  may  be  broadly  divided  into  2  classes,  viz., 
cream   ices   and   water   ices.     The   former   are   sometimes   composed 
almost  entirely  of  cream,  sweetened,  flavoured  and  elaborated  in  a 
number  of  ways,  but  more  frequently  the  so-called  "  cream  ice  "  con- 
sists principally  of  custard,  more  or  less  rich  according  to  resp< 
requirements,  with  the  addition  of  fruit  pulp,  crystallized  fruit,  almonds, 
chocolate,  coffee,  liqueurs,  and  other  flavouring  ingredient 
ices  are  usually  prepared  from  the  juices  of  fresh  fruit   mixed  with 
syrup,  fruit  syrup,  or  jam,  sieved  and  diluted  with  water  or  - 
In  addition  to  these  there  are  the  demi-glace  or  half-frozen  compounds, 
now  largely  introduced   into  high-class  menus  under   the   names  of 
sorbet,  granite  or  granito,  and  punch.     This  \ 

immediately  before  the  roast,  and  ah  mall  portions  in  sorbet 

cups  or  glasses,  never  moulded;  and  alcoholic  liqiu -urs  are  more  < 

in  their  preparation,      i  and  soul: 

ordinary  i.  once  moulded 

and   plucrd   on   ice,   thus  omitting  the  ordin.  unary   in 

In  these,  as  in  dessert  ices,  new  combin  ul  moulds 

of  oii;  iii.d  design  for  their  use  I  constantly  introduced,  but 

as  th-  iistituents  of  the  preparations  remain  unch, 

who  understand  the  -nieral  pii: 


990         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


Jellies,  etc. 

I976._ALMOND   CHARLOTTE. 

(See  Charlotte  Russe,  No.  2032.) 

Omit  the  brandy  or  sherry  and  vanilla  essence,  and  add  1  tablespoon- 
ful  of  coarsely-chopped,  lightly-browned  almonds  and  a  few  drops  of 
almond  essence. 

1977.— AMBER  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  sherry  or  Marsala,  £  of  a 
pint  of  lemon-juice,  6  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  4  yolks 
of  eggs  or  2  whole  eggs,  the  thinly  cut  rind  of  i  small  lemon. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  stewpan,  and  whisk  over  the 
fire  until  near  boiling  point,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  actually  boil,  or  the 
eggs  will  curdle.  Strain  through  muslin  or  a  fine  strainer,  pour  into 
a  mould  and  place  in  the  cool  to  set. 

Time. — About  -i-  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  about 
i  quart  of  ;plly. 

1978.— APPLE  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee  de  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  apples,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  leaf 
gelatine,  i  lemon,  \  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Peel  and  slice  the  apples,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
the  sugar,  water,  the  juice  and  thinly  cut  rind  of  the  lemon,  simmer 
until  tender,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Melt  the  gelatine  in  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water,  strain,  and  stir  it  into  the  apple  preparation,  and 
turn  into  a  prepared  mould. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  i  medium- 
sized  mould. 

1979.— APRICOT  JELLY.      (Fr.— Gelee  d'Abricot.) 

Ingredients. — 18  large  apricots,  i£  pints  of  syrup  No.  2277,  i£  ozs.  of 
gelatine,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon- juice. 

Method. — Remove  the  stones,  and  slice  the  apricots  thinly.  Make 
the  syrup  as  directed,  pour  it  boiling  over  the  apricots,  and  add  the 
lemon-juice.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  a  little  cold  water,  and,  when  ready- 
to  use,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  dissolved.  Allow  the  apricots  to  remain 
covered  until  nearly  cold,  then  strain  through  a  jelly  bag,  stir  in  the 
gelatine,  and  pour  into  a  prepared  mould. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S.  6d.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  i 
quart. 


RECIPES   FOR   JELLIES  991 

1980.— ASPIC  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  jellied  veal  stock,  No.  9,  2  ozs.  of  gel- 
atine, £  of  a  pint  of  sherry,  £  of  a  pint  of  vinegar  (preferably  French 
wine  vinegar },  the  shells  and  whites  of  2  eggs,  i  bouquet-garni  (par- 
sley, thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  strips  of  celery. 

Method. — Let  the  stock  become  quite  cold,  and  remove  every  particle 
of  fat.     Put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the  gelatine,  herbs,  celery  cut  into 
large  pieces,  the  egg-shells,  and  the  whites  previously  slightlv  1 
Whisk  over  a  sharp  fire  until  near  boiling,  and  add  the  wine  and  vinegar. 
Continue  the  whisking  until  quite  boiling,  then  draw  tin-  stvwpan 
lot  the  contents  simmer   for   about  10  minutes,  and   strain    till 
and  use  as  required. 

Time. — From  40  to  60  minutes,  after  the  stock  is  made.  Average  Cost, 
is.  2d.,  exclusive  of  the  stock.  Sufficient  for  2  quarts  of  jelly. 

1981.— ASPIC  JELLY  FROM  CALVES'  FEET. 

Ingredients. — 2  calves'  feet,  5  pints  of  cold  water,  i  onion,  i  leek,  2 
shallots,  i  carrot,  2  or  3  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley, 
thyme,  bay-leaf),  2  dozen  peppercorns,  salt,  i  lemon,  j  tablcspoonfuls 
each  of  malt  and  tarragon  vincgurs.  i  tablespoonful  of  chilli  vincgai  the 
whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs,  ^  of  a  pint  of  sheny  (option 

Method. — Wash,  blanch  and  divide  each  foot  into  4  or  more  pieces. 
Replace  in  the  stewpan,  add  5  p  D  boiling  skim  care- 

fully, add  the  vegetables  cut  into  large  pieces,   1  npercorns, 

salt  to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  from  5  to  6  hours.  Strain,  and 
cold,  carefully  remove  every  particle  of  fat.  Now  place  the  stock, 
the  juice  of  the  lemon  and  the  rind  finely-pared,  the  whites  and  shell 
of  the  n-.iis  in  the  stewpan.  whisk  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  add  the 
wine  and  vinegar.  Firing  to  the  boil,  whisking  meanwhile.  Simmer 
slowly  for  30  minutes,  strain  and  use  as  directed  on  p.  « 

Time. — About  i  hour,  to  clear  and  strain.     Average  Cost.  to  35. 

Sufficient  for  i  quart. 

-When  the  jellied  stock  i->  ;.  ntly  stiff,  a  little   l-'rer.ch   leaf 

gelatine  should  be  added  when  deai 

1982.— ASPIC  JELLY  FROM  GELATINE. 

Ingredients.     j£  ozs.  of  loaf  gelatine,  i  quart  of  water,  the  whites  and 
of  2  eggs,  i  lemon,  j  of  a  pint  of  malt  vinegar,  i   tablespoonful 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  i  onion,  carrot,  2  or  3  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet- 
garni  i'percorns,    i    teaspoonful  of 

Method.     Whip  ti  the  lemon  rind  as 

thinly  as  \>  rain  the  ji;ice.      Put  them  with  the  rest  of  the 


992  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

ingredients  into  a  stewpan,  whisk  over  a  brisk  fire  until  boiling,  and 
simmer  very  gently  for  about  20  minutes.  Strain  as  directed  on  p.  987. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  or  ud.  Sufficient  for  i£ 
pints. 

Note. — Jelly  of  this  description  is  used  principally  for  lining  and  garnishing 
moulds.  If  too  stiff  it  may  be  diluted  with  a  little  water,  or  sherry,  when 
additional  flavour  is  desired. 

1983.— BRANDY  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee   au   Cognac.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  wineglassful  of  brandy,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  leaf 
gelatine,  the  thin  rind  and  strained  juice  of  i  small  lemon,  the  stiffly- 
whipped  whites  and  crushed  shells  of  2  eggs,  i  bay-leaf,  2  cloves,  i 
blade  of  mace,  i  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  brandy,  into  a  stewpan, 
whisk  gently  until  on  the  point  of  boiling,  then  draw  the  pan  aside,  and 
let  the  contents  simmer  gently  for  5  minutes.  Strain  through  a  jelly 
bag  until  clear,  add  the  brandy,  and  pour  into  a  prepared  mould. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  a  pint 
mould. 

1984.— CALF'S  FOOT  JELLY.     (See  Aspic  Jelly  from 
Calves'  Feet,  No.  1981.) 

1985.— CHAMPAGNE  JELLY.  (Gelee  au  Vin  de  Cham- 
pagne.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  water,  |-  of  a  pint  of  champagne,  £  of  a 
pint  of  sherry,  6  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i£  ozs.  of  gelatine,  the  juice  and 
finely-cut  rind  of  i  lemon,  the  juice  and  finely-cut  rind  of  i  small 
orange,  2  cloves,  i  inch  of  cinnamon,  the  white  and  shell  of  i  egg. 

Method. — Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  stewpan,  and  bring  to  the 
boil,  stirring  meanwhile.  Simmer  for  about  10  minutes,  strain  through 
a  hot  jelly-bag  or  cloth,  and  pour  into  a  wetted  mould.  When  firm, 
turn  out  as  directed  on  p.  987. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  i£  pints  of  jelly. 

1986.— CLARET  JELLY.      (Fr.— Gelee  de  Bordeaux.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  claret,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  lemon- 
juice,  the  thinly  cut  rind  of  2  lemons,  6  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i|  ozs.  of 
leaf  gelatine,  the  whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs,  a  few  drops  of 
cochineal. 

Method. — Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  stewpan,  and  whisk  over' 
the  fire  until  it  boils.  Simmer  for  about  10  minutes,  then  strain 


RECIPES  FOR   JELLIES  993 

through  a  scalded  bag  or  cloth,  add  a  fe\v  drops  of  cochineal  to  improve 
the  colour,  pour  into  a  wet  mould,  and  put  in  a  cool  place  to  set. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
if  pints. 

1987.— CLARET  JELLY.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  claret,  %  of  a  pint  of  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  rasp- 
or  strawberry  jam  or  syrup,  i  tablcspoonful  of  brandy,  3  ozs. 
of  loaf  sugar,  £  of  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  the  juice  and  thinly  cut  rind  of 
i  lemon,  cochineal. 

Method.— Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  the  water,  add  the  other  ingredients, 
and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  well  mixed.  Simmer  very  gently 
for  10  minutes,  strain  through  muslin,  add  a  few  drops  of  cochineal  to 
improve  the  colour,  and  pour  into  a  wet  mould,  and  put  to  set  in  a 
cool  place. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  ;d.     Sufficient  for  i  pint. 

1988.— COFFEE  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee  au  Cafe.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  strong  clear  coffee,  £  a  pint  of  water,  }  an  oz. 
(full  weight)  of  leaf  gelatine,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Put  the  water  and  gelatine  into  a  small  stewpan,  stir  by 
the  side 'of  the  lire  until  dissolved,  then  pass  through  a  fine  strainer  into 
a  basin.  Add  the  coffee,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  turn  into  a  mould 
previously  rinsed  with  cold  water.  Turn  out  when  set  and  se; 

Time. — From  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  Sufficient  for  i  pint 
of  jelly. 

1989.— CRAB  APPLE  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — Crab  apples,  sugar,  lemon-juice,  gelatine. 
Method. — Halve  the  fruit,  place  it  in  a  preserving  pan  with  cold  water 
to  barely  cover  it,  simmer  gently  until  t-  n  strain.     Replace 

the  liquor  in  the  pan  ;   to  each  pint  allow  i  Ib.  of  sugar  and  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon-jtiico,  and  simmer  gently  for  $  an  hour,  skim 

\hilc.     Measure    the    liquor  ;    to    each  pint  aJlow  $  an  oz.  of 

gelatine,  dissolve  it  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  strain  and  add  it  to  the 

-<ts  of  the  prcservir  ;   into  a  prepared  mould  or  jelly 

s,  and  serve  when  set.     If  closely  covered  the  jelly  may  be  kept 

for  a  considerable  tune. 

Time.     About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  ;d.  or  Sd.  per  pint. 

NO.  1978. 

1990.— DUTCH  FLUMMERY. 

Ingredients.— i  oz.  of  gelatin  r  to  taste,  4  eggs,  the  thinlyr 

lined  juice  of   i   Innon.   i    pint  of  slimy,  M* 

K  K 


994         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  and  lemon-rind  in  the  water  for  20 
minutes,  and  afterwards  simmer  gently  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved. 
Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  wine,  lemon-juice,  the  strained  water  and  gela- 
tine, and  sweeten  to  taste.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture 
thickens,  then  pour  it  into  a  mould  rinsed  with  cold  water,  and  put 
aside  until  set. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.,  if  made  with  sherry. 
Sufficient  for  i  quart  mould. 

I99I. —GELATINE  JELLY. 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  packet  of  calves'  foot  gelatine,  5  ozs.  of  loaf 
sugar,  2  lemons,  the  stiffly-whipped  whites  and  crushed  shells  of  2  eggs, 
%  a  pint  of  sherry,  £  a  pint  of  cold  water,  i  pint  of  boiling  water. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  4-  an  hour,  then  put 
it  into  a  stewpan  with  the  boiling  water,  sugar,  whites  and  shells  of 
eggs,  thin  rind  and  strained  juice  of  the  lemons  and  the  sherry.  Whisk 
the  mixture  until  it  boils,  let  it  stand  10  minutes  to  clear,  then  strain 
through  a  jelly  bag  or  cloth. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.     Sufficient  for  i  quart. 

1992.— GOLDEN  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee  doree.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  lemon,  wine  or  other  clear  jelly,  2  to  3  gold 
leaves. 

Method. — Break  the  gold  leaves  into  small  pieces,  stir  them  into  the 
jelly  when  on  the  point  of  setting,  and  pour  into  a  mould  as  the 
jelly  commences  to  set. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  23.  9d.  Sufficient  for  i 
quart. 

I993._GOOSEBERRY   JELLY.  (Fr.— Gelee  de  Grose- 
illes  Vertes.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  gooseberries,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  or  to  taste, 
|  of  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  the  finely-cut  rind  of  i  lemon,  |-  a  pint  of 
water. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  tops  and  tails  of  the  gooseberries,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  the  sugar,  water,  and  lemon-rind,  simmer  until 
tender,  and  rub  through  a  hair  sieve.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cold  water,  and  strain  it  into  the  mixture.  Turn  into  a 
mould  previously  rinsed  with  cold  water,  and  put  aside  in  a  cold  place 
until  set  and  firm. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d.  Sufficient  for  i 
medium-sized  mould.  Seasonable  from  April  to  July. 


RECIPES   FOR  JELLIES  995 

1994.— GRAPE  JELLY. 

Ingredients.—  i  V  pints  of  wine  jelly  or  gelatine  jelly,  black  grapes. 

Method.— Arrange  the  grapes  and  jelly  in  alternate  layers  (see  Char- 
treuse of  Oranges),  and,  if  liked,  intersperse  shredded  almonds  and 
strips  of  pistachio  kernels. 

Time. —  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  about 
ij  pints. 

1995.— ISINGLASS  JELLY. 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  patent  Isinglass,  5  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  the  finely- 
pared  rind  and  strained  juice  of  2  lemons,  the  stiffly- whisked  whites 
and  crushed  shells  of  2  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  sherry,  £  a  pint  of  cold  water, 
i  pint  of  boiling  water. 

Method. — Follow  the  directions  given  for  making  Gelatine  Jelly, 
No.  1991. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  oxl.     Sufficient  for  i  quart. 

1996.— IVORY  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  ivory  dust  (to  be  obtained  from  first-class 
grocers),  i  wineglassful  of  sherry,  i  clove,  i  bay-leaf,  i  blade  of  mace, 
sugar  to  taste,  i  quart  of  water. 

Method. —  Put  all  the  ini'ivilu-nis.  except  the  wine  and  sugar,  into  a 
stewpan,  and  simmer  gently  until  reduced  to  i  pint.  Strain  through  a 
jelly  bag,  when  cold  and  set  remove  the  sediment,  re-heat  the  jrlly, 
add  the  wine  and  sugar  to  taste,  strain  into  a  mould,  and  put  aside  until 
set. 

Time. — About  12  hours.  Average  Cost,  uncertain.  Sufficient  for  a  pint 
mould. 

1997.  -JELLY,  POLONAISE  STYLE.  (Fr.— Gelee  a  la 
Polonaise.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  Maraschino  jelly  No.  2008,  I  pint  of  milk. 
i  oz.  of  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  cornflour,  £  of  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  2  yolks  of 
eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  Maraschino,  ^  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method.  Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the 
remainder,  and  add  to  it  the  sugar,  and  the  blended  cornflour  and  milk. 
Stir  and  boil  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  gelatine,  previously 
softened  in  a  little  cold  water.  Simmer  gently  until  it  dissolves,  and 
allow  the  mixture  to  cool  a  little.  Now  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs, 
and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  tire  until  they  thicken,  then  strain  the  pre- 
paration into  a  basin,  and  stir  in  the  Maraschino  and  vanilla  essence. 
Pour  into  a  flat-bottomed  mould,  let  it  set  on  ice,  and  cut  into  diamond 
blocks  of  uniform  size.  Set  these  in  a  fancy  border  mould  in  layers 


996  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

with  jelly   (see  Maccdoine  of  Fruit,  No.  2001),  arranging  them  sym- 
metrically. 

Time. — From  3^  to  4  hours,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient 
for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

1998.— JELLY   IN   COLOURS. 

(See   Marbled  Jelly,  No.  2007.) 

1999.— JELLY  WITH  BANANAS.    (Fr.— Chartreuse  de 
Bananes.) 

Ingredients. — 6  or  8  bananas,  i  pint  of  lemon  or  wine  jelly,  Nos. 
2020  and  2004. 

Method. — Remove  the  skins  from  the  bananas  as  required,  as  they 
so  quickly  discolour.  Cut  them  into  rather  thin  slices,  and  arrange 
them  in  jelly  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  Jelly  with  Oranges,  No.  2002. 
The  greatest  care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  layers  of  fruit  and  the 
spaces  of  jelly  between  them  uniform. 

Time. — From  i  to  i  £  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

2000.— JELLY  WITH  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  red  jelly  (claret  or  port),  £  oz.  each  of  pre- 
served ginger,  apricots,  angelica,  and  cherries,  all  shredded,  £  an  oz.  of 
gelatine,  •£  a  pint  of  stiffly-whipped  cream. 

Method. — Place  a  deep  layer  of  jelly  at  the  bottom  of  a  plain  mould, 
let  it  set  firmly,  put  in  a  small  round  mould,  or  tumbler  with  straight 
sides,  and  fill  the  outer  space  with  cold  liquid  jelly.  When  firm,  take 
away  the  mould  or  glass  ,  this  may  be  easily  done  by  filling  it  for  a 
minute  or  so  with  warm  water.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  little  hot 
water,  when  slightly  cooled  add  it  to  the  cream,  stir  in  the  fruits,  and 
turn  the  whole  into  the  prepared  mould. 

Time. — Without  ice,  5  or  6  hours.  Average  Cost,  23.  pd.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

200I._jELLY  WITH   FRUIT.      (Fr.— Macedoine  de 
Fruit  a  la  Gelee.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  lemon  or  wine  jelly,  Nos.  2020  and  2004,  mixed 
fruit,  such  as  grapes,  strawberries,  red  and  white  currants,  small  slices 
or  dice  of  pineapple,  peaches  and  apricots. 

Method. — Rinse  the  mould  with  cold  water,  place  it  in  a  basin  or 
shallow  pan  of  broken  ice,  cover  the  bottom  with  a  thin  layer  of  cool 
jelly,  and  let  it  set.  Add  some  of  the  fruit,  contrasting  the  colours 
carefully,  cover  with  jelly,  and  leave  it  to  stiffen.  Repeat  until  the 


RECIPES  FOR  JELLIES  997 

mould  is  full,  taking  care  that  each  layer  is  firmly  fixed  before  adding 
another.       Turn  out  when  set  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  2s.  3d.  to  33.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  i  large  mould. 

2002.— JELLY  WITH  ORANGES.       (Fr.— Chartreuse 
aux  Oranges.) 

Ingredients. — 6  Tangerine  oranges,  i  pint  of  lemon  or  wine  jelly 
Xos.  2020  and  2004. 

Method. — Peel  the  oranges,  remove  every  particle  of  pith,  and  divide 
them  into  sections.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  charlotte  mould  with  a 
little  cool  jelly,  let  it  set,  then  arrange  sections  of  orange  neatly  over- 
lapping each  other  round  the  mould.  Cover  with  more  jelly,  let  it 
set,  then  add  another  layer  of  oranges,  and  repeat  until  the  mould 
is  full. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours,  when  ice  is  used.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 
to  is.  oxl.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized  mould.  Seasonable  from  Novem- 
ber to  August. 

TANGERINE  ORANGES.— Tangerine  oranges  are  small,  with  thin,  highly  aromatic  skins,  full  of 
essence.  The  flavour  of  the  fruit  is  decided  and  perfumed.  The  fruit  originally  came  from  China 
and  Tangiers.  Tangerines  are  preserved  when  green  in  sugar-glac£  or  crystallized,  and  are  then  known 
as  Chinois  ;  when  preserved  ripe,  they  are  called  Mandarine  or  Tangerine. 

2003.— JELLY  WITH  RAISINS. 

Ingredients. — Wine  or  lemon  jelly,  Valencia  raisins  stoned. 

Method. — The  raisins  may  be  placed  in  the  jelly  according  to  the 
directions  given  in  Jelly  with  Bananas,  No.  1999,  or  Jelly  with 
Fruit,  No.  2000. 

Time. — Without  ice,  5  or  6  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.,  accord- 
ing to  size. 

2004.— LEMON  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee  au  Citron.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  water,  £  a  pint  of  sherry,  £  of  a  pint  of  lemon 
juice,  6  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  the  finely-peeled  rind  of  4  lemons,  the  wliites 
and  shells  of  2  eggs,  i£  ozs.  of  leaf  gelatine. 

Method. — Put  the  water,  lemon-rind  and  juice,  gelatine,  sugar,  egg 
shells,  and  the  slightly  beaten  whites  together  into  a  stewpan,  boil 
up,  whisking  meanwhile,  simmer  for  about  10  minutes,  then  strain 
through  a  scalded  jelly-bag  or  linen  cloth.  Add  the  wine,  and  use  as 
required. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for 
ij  pints. 

Note. — When  the  jelly  is  intended  to  line  or  garnish  moulds,  an  extra  £  oz. 
of  gelatine  should  be  added,  especially  so  in  hot  weather. 


9Q8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2005.— LEMON  JELLY.       (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  water,  \  a  pint  of  lemon-juice,  6  ozs.  of  loaf 
sugar,  2  ozs.  of  leaf  gelatine,  the  thinly  cut  rinds  of  4  lemons,  4  cloves, 
i  inch  of  cinnamon,  the  whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs. 

Method. — Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  stewpan,  whisk  until  they 
boil,  and  simmer  for  about  10  minutes.  Strain  through  a  scalded  cloth 
or  bag,  and  when  cool  use  as  required. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  2d.     Sufficient  for  i|  pints. 

2006.— LIQUEUR   JELLY. 

(See  Maraschino  Jelly,  No.  2008.) 
2007.— MARBLED  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee  Panachee.) 

Ingredients. — 14  pints  of  lemon  or  wine  jelly,  cochineal,  sap-green  or 
spinach  colouring. 

Method. — Coat  a  mould  with  a  thin  layer  of  cool  jelly,  put  3  or  4 
tablespoonfuls  aside,  and  divide  the  remainder  into  3  equal  portions. 
Colour  one  green,  one  red,  and  leave  the  other  plain.  Let  it  become 
firm,  then  put  it  into  the  mould  in  rough  pieces  about,  the  size  of  a 
large  walnut,  and  set  them  with  a  little  cool  jelly,  put  aside  for  the 
purpose.  Let  it  remain  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until  firm,  then  turn 
out  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

2008.— MARASCHINO  JELLY.    (Fr.— Gelee  au  Maras- 
quin.) 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  Maraschino  liqueur,  i^  pints  of  water, 
4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i£  ozs.  of  leaf  gelatine,  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  the 
whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  except  the  Maraschino  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  bring  to  boiling  point,  whisking  meanwhile.  Simmer  gently 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain,  add  the  Maraschino,  and  when  suffi- 
ciently cool  pour  into  a  wet  mould. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.     Sufficient  for  i£  pints. 

2009.—  NECTARINE    JELLY. 

(See  Apricot  Jelly,  No.   1979.) 
2010.— NOYEAU    JELLY. 

(See  Maraschino  Jelly,  No.  2008.) 

20 1 1. —NOYEAU  CREAM.     (Fr.— Creme  au  Noyeau.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  cream,  i£  ozs.  of  gelatine,  i  tablespoonful 
of  lemon- juice,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  noyeau,  i  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
or  to  taste. 


RECIPES   FOR   JELLIES  999 

Method. — Soak  and  afterwards  dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  little  water. 
Add  the  noyeau,  lemon-juice,  sugar,  and  the  cream  slightly- whipped. 
Whisk  gently  until  light,  then  turn  into  a  mould  and  set  aside  the  pre- 
paration until  it  becomes  firm. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  33.  Sufficient  for  i  large 
mould. 

2012.— ORANGE  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee  d'Oranges.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  orange  juice  (strained),  i  pint  of  boiling  water, 
2  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i£  ozs.  of  gelatine,  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  the 
thinly  cut  rind  of  2  oranges. 

Method. — Put  the  water,  gelatine,  sugar  and  orange-rinds  into  a 
stewpan,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  let  the  mixture  stand  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  for  about  10  minutes.  Have  the  strained  orange  and  lemon-juice 
ready  in  a  basin,  add  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  pouring  them  through 
a  piece  of  muslin  or  a  strainer.  When  cool,  pour  into  a  mould  rinsed, 
with  cold  water.  This  jelly  is  never  cleared,  as  it  spoils  the  flavour. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  i  quart 
of  jelly.  Seasonable  from  November  to  August. 

2013.— PORT   WINE    JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee    au    vin 
d'Oporto.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  port  wine,  i£  gills  of  water,  i  oz.  of  loaf  sugar, 
£  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  i  tablespoonful  of  red-currant  jelly,  cochineal. 

Method. — Put  the  water,  sugar,  red-currant  jelly  and  gelatine  into 
a  stew-pan,  and  stir  the  ingredients  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  dissolved. 
Add  half  the  wine,  a  few  drops  of  cochineal  to  improve  the  colour,  and 
strain  through  muslin  or  jelly  bag.  Add  the  remainder  of  wine  at 
the  last. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  i  small 
mould. 

2014.— PUNCH  JELLY.       (Fr.— Gelee  au  Punch.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  water,  i  wineglassful  each  of  rum,  sherry,  and 
kirsch,  £  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  i£  ozs.  of  French  gelatine,  2  lemons,  i  egg, 
\  an  inch  of  cinnamon,  20  coriander  seeds. 

Method. — Put  the  water  and  sugar  into  a  stewpan,  and  boil  to  a  syrup. 
Add  the  finely-cut  rind  of  the  lemons,  the  gelatine,  previously  softened 
in  a  little  cold  water,  and  stir  until  the  latter  dissolves.  Now  put  in 
llu-  k-mon- juice,  rum,  sherry,  kirsch,  cinnamon  and  coriander  seeds, 
brim!  to  the  boil,  and  let  it  cool.  Beat  up  the  white  and  shell  of  the 
egg,  add  the  mixture  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan  when  sufficiently 
cool,  and  whisk  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  boiling.  Simmer  very  gently 


iooo  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

for  10  minutes,  then  strain  through  a  hot  jelly-bag  or  a  cloth  until 
clear,  and  pour  into  a  mould  previously  rinsed  with  cold  water. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  i£  pints 
of  jelly. 

2015.— RHUBARB  JELLY.  (Fr.— Gelee  de  Rhubarbe.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  bundle  of  rhubarb,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  or  to 
taste,  I  of  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  the  finely-cut  rind  of  i  lemon,  \  a  pint 
of  water. 

Method. — Wipe  the  rhubarb  with  a  cloth,  trim  it,  and  cut  it  into  short 
lengths,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the  water,  sugar  and  lemon-rind,  sim- 
mer until  tender,  and  rub  through  a  hair  sieve.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  water,  and  strain  into  the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Turn 
into  a  wetted  mould,  and  keep  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  set. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  7d.  Sufficient  for  i 
medium-sized  mould.  Seasonable  from  February  to  May. 

2016.— SAUTERNE    JELLY. 

(See  Champagne  Jelly,  No.  1985.) 

2017.— STOCK  FOR  JELLY.  (See  Aspic  Jelly  from 
Calves1  Feet,  No.  1981,  Gelatine  Jelly, 
No.  1991,  and  Wine  Jelly,  No.  2020.) 

When  sweet  jelly  is  required,  lemon-rind,  cloves,  bay-leaf  and  mace 
should  replace  the  vegetables,  herbs  and  vinegar  used  in  making  aspic 
jelly. 

2018.— STRAWBERRY  JELLY.          (Fr.— Gelee    aux 
Praises.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  strawberries,  •£  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  gela- 
tine, the  juice  of  i  lemon,  the  whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs,  a  little  lemon 
jelly,  No.  2020. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  i  pint  of  cold  water  to  a  syrup,  and  when 
cool,  pour  it  over  £  a  Ib.  of  strawberries,  previously  picked  and  crushed 
to  a  pulp.  Cover  the  basin,  and  let  the  fruit  remain  thus  for  £  an  hour. 
Coat  a  mould  thinly  with  lemon  jelly,  decorate  tastefully  with  whole 
strawberries,  and  fix  them  firmly  in  place  with  a  little  more  jelly  (see 
p.  996).  Place  the  gelatine  with  i  pint  of  water  in  a  stewpan;  when 
dissolved  add  the  strawberry  preparation  and  the  lemon-juice.  Let 
the  mixture  cool,  then  stir  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  the  shells. 
Whisk  until  boiling,  and  strain  through  a  jelly-bag  or  cloth  until  clear. 
"When  the  preparation  is  cold  and  on  the  point  of  setting  pour  it  into 


COLD    SWEETS, 


Chartreuse  of  Peaches.          2.  Jubilee  or  Claret  Jelly.          3.    Apple  Amber. 
63  K  K* 


SOUFFLES. 


i.  Cheese  Souffle.         2.  Souffle  Omelet.         3.  Vanilla  Souffle. 


64 


RECIPES  FOR   CREAMS  1001 

the  prepared  mould,  and  let  it  remain  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until 
firm. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  i  large  mould.  Seasonable  from  June  to  August. 

2019.— TIPPAREE  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — Tipparee  pods  (Cape  gooseberries),  sugar,  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Wipe  the  pods,  cover  them  with  cold  water,  simmer  gently 
until  soft,  then  drain  through  a  jelly  bag,  but  do  not  squeeze  the  pulp. 
Measure  the  liquor  ;  to  each  pint  add  i  Ib.  of  sugar  and  I  dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon-juice,  and  simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour,  skimming 
meanwhile.  Pour  the  jelly  into  prepared  moulds,  or  into  jars  if  not 
required  for  immediate  use. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  uncertain. 

2020.— V/INE  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gel6e  au  Vin.) 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  wine,  sherry  or  Marsala,  4ozs. 
of  loaf  sugar,  2-£  ozs.  of  French  leaf  gelatine,  i  orange,  i  lemon,  £  an  oz. 
of  coriander  seed,  the  whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs. 

Method. — Put  the  water,  sugar,  gelatine,  the  juice  and  finely-cut 
rind  of  the  orange  and  lemon,  and  the  coriander  seeds  into  a  stewpan, 
and  let  them  soak  until  the  gelatine  is  softened.  Whisk  the  whites  and 
shells  of  the  eggs  together,  add  them  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients, 
and  whisk  over  the  fire  until  boiling.  Simmer  gently  for  10  minutes, 
then  strain  through  a  hot  jelly-bag  or  cloth  until  clear,  and  pour  into 
a  wet  mould. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  pd.  Sufficient  for 
i  quart  of  jelly. 


Creams,  etc. 

2021.— ALMOND  CREAM.  (Fr. — Cremeaux  Amandes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  almonds,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  sugar, 
£  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  essence  of  almonds. 

Method.-  Blanch  and  skin  the  almonds,  chop  them  coarsely,  and 
bake  in  the  oven  until  light  brown.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  and  sugar 
in  3  i  iuls  of  water.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  add  the  gelatine, 

etc.,  the  almonds  when  cold,  and  mix  all  lightly  together.  Pour  into 
a  prepared  mould,  and  stand  in  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until  firmly  set. 

Time.— About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  i 
small  cream. 


1002  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2022.— APRICOT  CREAM.  (Fr.—  Creme  aux  Abricots.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  apricot  puree,  \  a  pint  of  cream,  \\  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  £  of  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  I  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
£  of  a  pint  of  apricot  syrup,  cochineal. 

Method. — Tinned  or  bottled  apricots  may  be  used,  and  the  puree 
is  made  by  passing  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Whip  the  cream 
stiffly,  and  stir  it  lightly  into  the  puree.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a 
little  water  and  put  with  the  syrup,  add  the  sugar  and  lemon-juice,  and 
let  it  cool,  then  strain  into  the  cream,  etc.,  and  add  cochineal  drop  by 
drop  until  the  desired  colour  is  obtained.  Pour  the  mixture  into  the 
prepared  mould,  and  stand  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  firm. 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes,  after  the  mould  is  prepared.  Average 
Cost,  about  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

2023.— BANANA  CREAM.     (Fr.— Creme  de  Bananes.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  banana  puree,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  il-  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  £  of  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  i  wineglassful  of  Benedictine  or 
Maraschino,  cochineal. 

Method. — Pass  the  bananas  through  a  fine  sieve,  add  the  stiffly- 
whipped  cream,  the  Benedictine  or  Maraschino,  and  mix  lightly  to- 
gether. Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  tablespoonful  of  water,  stir  in  the 
sugar,  and  when  sufficiently  cool  mix  lightly  with  the  cream,  etc., 
adding  cochineal  drop  by  drop  until  a  pale  pink  colour  is  obtained. 
Pour  into  the  prepared  mould,  and  stand  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until 
firm. 

Time. — To  make  the  cream,  from  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
from  is.  9d.  to  2S.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized  mould. 


2024. — BANANA     CREAM.  (Fr. — Bavaroise     de 

Bananes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  bananas,  i  quart  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  cornflour,  2  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  put  the 
remainder  into  a  stewpan  with  the  sugar,  when  boiling  add  the  blended 
cornflour  and  milk,  and  boil  about  10  minutes.  Let  the  preparation 
cool  a  little,  then  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  until  they  thicken.  Add  the  vanilla  essence,  the  bananas 
thinly-sliced,  and  when  cool  pour  into  the  prepared  mould. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  I 
large  mould. 


RECIPES   FOR  CREAMS  1003 

2025.— BAVARIAN  CREAMS. 

A  variety  of  these  will  be  found  under  their  respective  names,  e.g. 
Bavaroise  au  Chocolate,  Bavaroise  de  Bananes,  Bavaroise  aux  Peches, 
etc.  etc. 

2026.— BAVAROISE  AU  CHOCOLATE.   (See  Chocolate 
Cream,  No.  2036.) 

2027.— BAVAROISE    DE    BANANES.        (See    Banana 
Cream,  No.  2023.) 

2028.— BAVAROISE    AUX    PECHES.         (See    Peach 
Cream,  No.  2047.) 

2029.-BROWN   BREAD   CREAM.      (Fr.— Creme  au 
Pain-bis.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  cream,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  3  tablcspoonfuls  of 
crumbled  brown  bread,  I  oz.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  2  whites 
of  eggs,  i  yolk  of  egg,  I  vanilla  pod,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinna- 
mon. 

Method. — Simmer  the  milk  and  vanilla  pod  together  until  pleasantly 
flavoured,  add  the  sugar,  and  when  dissolved  strain  on  to  the  beaten 
eggs,  stirring  meanwhile.  Return  to  the  stewpan,  add  the  gelatine, 
previously  soaked  in  a  little  water,  then  put  in  the  cream  and  stir 
until  the  mixture  thickens.  Have  the  sieved  brown  bread  and  cinnamon 
ready  in  a  basin,  add  the  milk  preparation,  stir  frequently  until  cool, 
then  pour  into  the  prepared  mould. 

Time. — From  40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2S.  3d.  to  2s.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  i  large  or  2  small  moulds. 

2030.— CANARY  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — 1\  pints  of  milk,  4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  J  of  an  oz.  of  leaf 
gelatine,  i  lemon,  6  yolks  of  eggs. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  a  little  milk,  boil  the  remainder  with 
the  thinly-cut  lemon-rind  and  sugar  for  a  few  minutes,  add  the  gelatine, 
and  when  dissolved  let  the  mixture  cool  a  little.  Now  put  in  the 
lemon-juice,  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
until  they  thicken.  Stir  the  mixture  frequently  until  cool,  then  pour 
into  a  wetted  or  lined  mould. 

Time. — From  3$  to  40  minute^.  Average  Cost.  is.  Sufficient  for  i 
large  mould. 


1004  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2031.— CARAMEL  CREAM.   (Fr— Creme  Renversee.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  milk,  3  ozs.  of  ground  rice,  I  oz.  of  castor 
sugar,  the  thinly-cut  rind  of  i  lemon,  2  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  loaf  sugar  into  a  stewpan  with  i  tablespoonful  of 
cold  water,  allow  it  to  boil  quickly  until  it  becomes  dark  golden-brown, 
then  pour  it  into  a  dry  plain  mould,  which  must  be  turned  slowly  over 
and  over  until  the  inner  surface  is  completely  coated.  Add  the 
lemon-rind  and  castor  sugar  to  the  boiling  milk,  sprinkle  in  the  ground 
rice,  and  boil  gently  for  10  minutes.  When  ready,  remove  the  lemon- 
rind,  pour  the  mixture  into  the  prepared  mould,  and  let  it  remain  in  a 
cold  place  until  set. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  i 
medium-sized  mould. 

2032.— CHARLOTTE  RUSSE.    (Fr.— Charlotte  Russe.) 

Ingredients. — %  a  pint  of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  £  of  an  oz.  of  leaf 
gelatine,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy  or  sherry,  i  dessertspoonful  of  castor 
sugar,  vanilla  essence,  Savoy  or  finger  biscuits,  jelly,  cherries,  angelica, 
or  other  decoration. 

Method. — Cover  the  bottom  of  a  charlotte  mould  thinly  with  jelly,' 
and  when  set  garnish  with  strips  of  angelica  and  halved  cherries.  Cover 
with  jelly  to  the  depth  of  about  \  an  inch,  let  the  jelly  set,  then  line 
the  mould  with  Savoy  biscuits.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  and  sugar  in  the 
milk,  then  strain  it  and  add  the  brandy  and  vanilla  essence  to  taste. 
When  cool  stir  into  the  stiffly-whipped  cream.  Pour  into  the  pre- 
pared mould,  and  set  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until  firm. 

Time. — From  15  to  20  minutes,  after  the  mould  is  prepared.  Average 
Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  pd.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

Note. — If  preferred,  the  bottom  of  the  tin  may  be  lined  with  biscuits  cut  to 
the  shape  of  the  mould. 

2033.— CHARLOTTE  A  LA  ST.  JOSE. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  preserved  pineapple,  Savoy  biscuits,  £  a  pint  of 
cream,  \  a  gill  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of  lemon  or  wine  jelly  (about)  (see 
Nos.  2004  and  2020),  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  pineapple  syrup. 

Method. — Line  the  bottom  of  an  oval  charlotte  mould  with  jelly; 
when  set,  decorate  it  with  fancifully-cut  pieces  of  pineapple,  and  cut 
the  remainder  into  small  dice.  Set  the  decoration  with  a.  little  jelly, 
and  cover  with  a  layer  to  the  depth  of  at  least  £  an  inch.  Stand  on  ice 
until  firm,  then  line  the  sides  of  the  mould  with  Savoy  biscuits.  Dissolve 
the  gelatine  and  sugar  in  the  milk,  add  the  pineapple  syrup,  and  let  the 
mixture  cool,  Whip  the  cream  Stiffly,  add  the  pineapple  dice,  and  when 


RECIPES   FOR  CREAMS  1005 

cool  stir  in  the  gelatine,  etc.     Pour  into  the  mould,  stand  on  ice  until 
firm,  then  turn  out  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour,  to  prepare.  Average  Cost,  2S.  6d.  to  2S.  gd. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

2034.— CHARTREUSE  OF   APPLES.          (Fr—  Char- 
treuse  de  Pommes  a  la  Princesse.) 

Ingredients. — 6  small  cooking  apples,  3  ozs.  of  sugar  (about),  £  an  oz. 
of  leaf  gelatine,  2  ozs.  of  angelica,  i  oz.  of  glace  cherries>  i  oz.  of  pista- 
chios, the  thinly-cut  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  i  pint  of  lemon  or  wine  jelly, 
£  a  gill  of  cream,  2  cloves,  carmine  or  cochineal  for  colouring  purposes. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  cook  them  with  the  sugar, 
cloves,  lemon-rind,  and  £  a  pint  of  water  until  tender,  then  rub  them 
through  a  hair  sieve.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  i  tablespoonful  of  watrr, 
and  stir  it  into  the  puree.  Divide  into  2  equal  portions,  colour  i  pink 
with  carmine,  add  i  tablespoonful  of  cream  to  the  other,  pour  into 
separate  saute-pans  or  round  shallow  tins,  and  when  cold  cut  into 
stars,  crescents  or  other  shapes.  Have  ready  a  plain  charlotte  mould 
coated  with  jelly,  ornament  the  bottom  and  sides  tastefully  with  the 
prepared  shapes  and  fancifully  cut  pieces  of  angelica,  and  fix  them 
firmly  in  place  with  a  little  cool  jelly  (see  p.  985).  Place  a  small  mould 
in  the  centre  of  the  large  one,  leaving  about  i  inch  of  space  all  round; 
fill  this  space  with  cool  jelly,  and  let  it  set  firmly.  Dissolve  the  trim- 
mings of  the  coloured  and  plain  preparation  ly,  add  the 
remainder  of  the  cream  stittly-whippod,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  add  i«> 
each  portion  i  gill  of  cool  jolly.  Keniove  the  mould  from  the  centre, 
and  fill  the  cavity  with  alternate  layers  of  plain  and  coloured  pur 
taking  care  that  each  layer  is  firmly  set  before  adding  the  following 
one,  and  dividing  them  by  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  shredded  cherries  and 
pistachios.  Let  the  mould  remain  on  ice  for  about  2  hours,  then  turn 
out,  and  servo. 

Time. — To  prepare,  from  2\  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  96.  to  35. 
Sufficient  for  a  medium-sized  mould ;  6  or  7  persons. 

2035.— CHESTNUT  CREAM. (Fr.— Creme  aux  Matrons.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  chestnuts,  \\  pints  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of  cr< 
4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  J  of  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  the  thinly- 
cut  rind  of  i  lemon,  a  vanilla  pod,  i  winoglassful  of  Maraschino,  carmine 
or  cochin 

Method.— Shell,  parboil  and    skin   the  chestnuts,  put   them   into  a 

stewpan  with   i   pint  of  milk,  the  lemon-rind  and  vanilla  pod,  simmer 

until  tender,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.     Dissolve  the  sugar  and 

?  ine  in  the  remaining  \  pint  of  milk,  cool  slightly,  then  add  the  yolks 

of  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken.      When  cool 


ioo6  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

mix  with  the  puree,  add  the  Maraschino,  thickly- whipped  cream,  and 
the  carmine  drop  by  drop,  until  a  pale  pink  colour  is  obtained.  Pour 
into  a  decorated  mould,  and  let  it  remain  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place 
until  set. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  i  medium-sized  mould  (6  persons). 

2036.— CHOCOLATE  CREAM.  (Fr.—  Creme  au  Choco- 
lat.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  chocolate,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  f-  of  an  oz.  of 
leaf  gelatine,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk, 
i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Simmer  the  milk  and  chocolate  together  until  smoothly 
mixed,  let  it  cool  slightly,  then  add  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  stir  until  they 
thicken,  but  the  mixture  must  not  boil  or  the  eggs  may  curdle.  Dis- 
solve the  gelatine  in  i  tablespoonful  of  water,  strain  it  into  the  custard, 
and  add  the  vanilla  essence.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  stir  it  lightly 
into  the  custard,  turn  into  a  prepared  mould,  and  stand  on  ice  or  in 
a  cool  place  until  firmly  set. 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.,  not 
including  decoration  and  garnish.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized 
mould. 

2037.— CHOCOLATE     CREAM.     (Fr.— Bavaroise     au 
Chocolat.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  chocolate,  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  French 
leaf  gelatine,  i  tablespoonful  of  creme  de  riz  or  ground  rice,  6  yolks  of 
eggs,  i  quart  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  a  little  milk,  mix  the  creme  de  riz 
smoothly  with  milk,  put  the  remainder  into  a  stewpan  with  the  choco- 
late and  sugar,  bring  to  the  boil,  add  the  creme  de  riz,  and  simmer 
for  about  10  minutes.  Let  the  mixture  cool  a  little,  add  the  beaten 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken.  Add 
the  vanilla  and  gelatine,  and,  when  cool,  pour  into  the  mould,  which 
may  be  simply  wetted,  or  lined  with  jelly,  and  decorated  according 
to  taste. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
i  large  mould. 

2038.— COFFEE  CREAM.      (Fr.— Creme  au  Cafe.) 

Ingredients. — J-  a  pint  of  cream,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  coffee  essence,  2^  ozs, 
of  castor  sugar,  £  of  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs. 

Method.— Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  them  to  the  milk  when  nearly 


RECIPES   FOR   CREAMS  1007 

boiling,  stir  until  they  thicken,  then  put  in  the  sugar  and  cool  slightly. 
Now  dissolve  the  gelatine  in  i  tablespoonful  of  water,  and  add  it  to  the 
en -lard.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  stir  it  in  to  the  custard  when  nearly 
cold,  add  the  coffee  essence,  and  pour  into  the  prepared  mould.  Let 
the  mould  remain  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  firm. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.  Suffi- 
cient for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

2039.— COLD    CABINET    PUDDING.      (Fr.— Pouding 
Cabinet  Froid.) 

Ingredients. — Savoy  biscuits,  2  ozs.  of  ratafias,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar, 
£  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  V  a  gill  of  cream,  the  yolks 
of  4  eggs,  jelly,  cherries,  angelica. 

Method. — Prepare  the  mould  as  directed  for  the  recipe  for  Charlotte 
Russe,  No.  2032.  Bring  the  milk  and  sugar  nearly  to  boiling  point,  stir  it 
into  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  replace  in  the  stewpan,  and  stir  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens,  but  it  must  not  boil.  Dissolve 
the  gelatine  in  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  add  it  to  the  custard, 
and  when  nearly  cold  stir  in  the  cream,  and  flavour  to  taste  with  vanilla. 
Place  the  ratafias  and  trimmings  off  the  Savoy  biscuits  in  the  mould, 
and  pour  the  preparation,  when  cold  and  on  the  point  of  setting,  over 
them.  Place  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  firm. 

Time. — Erom  30  to  35  minutes,  after  the  mould  is  prepared.  Average 
Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

2040.— GARIBALDI  CREAM.    (Fr.— Creme  a  la  Gari- 
baldi.) 

Ingredients. — Equal  quantities  of  pistachio,  strawberry,  and  vanilla 
cream  (see  recipes  for  same). 

Method. — Place  a  layer  of  strawberry  cream  at  the  bottom  of  a  mould 
previously  lined  with  jelly,  or  rinsed  with  cold  water.  Allow  it  to  set, 
add  an  equal  depth  of  vanilla  cream,  and  when  firm,  pour  over  it  the 
pistachio  cream.  Let  it  remain  on  ice  until  set,  and  unmould. 

Time. — Without  ice,  3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S.  6d.  to  35.,  according 
to  size. 

2041.— GENOESE  CREAM.    (Fr.—  CremealaGenoise.) 

Ingredients. — J-  a  pint  of  milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  2  ozs.  of  macaroons, 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  mixed  glace  fruit  shredded,  £  an  oz.  of 
leaf  gelatine,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  the  finely-cut  rind  of  £  an  orange,  £  a 
wineglassful  of  brandy. 

Method. — Crush  the  macaroons  and  soak  them  in  the  brandy.  Put 
UK-  milk,  sugar  and  orange-rind  into  a  stewpan,  boil  up,  and  simmer 


ioo8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

for  10  minutes,  then  add  the  gelatine,  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken  and  the  gelatine  is  dissolved. 
Strain  over  the  macaroons  and  brandy,  add  the  prepared  fruit,  and 
when  cool,  stir  in  the  stiffly-whipped  cream.  Continue  the  stirring 
until  the  mixture  is  on  the  point  of  setting,  then  turn  into  the  prepared 
mould.  Let  it  remain  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until  firm. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for 
i  medium-sized  mould. 

2042.— GINGER  CREAM.      (Fr.— Creme  de  Gingem- 
bre.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
ginger  syrup,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  preserved  ginger, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  the  yolks  of  3  eggs. 

Method. — Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  them  to  the  milk  when  nearly 
boiling,  stir  until  they  thicken,  add  the  sugar,  and  set  aside  to  cool. 
Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  tablespoonful  of  water,  mix  with  it  the  ginger 
syrup,  the  ginger  cut  into  dice,  and  pour  into  the  custard.  Whip  the 
cream  stiffly,  and  when  cool  stir  it  lightly  into  the  custard.  Turn  into 
the  prepared  mould,  and  stand  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  required. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
i  medium-sized  mould. 

PRESERVED  GINGER  comes  to  us  from  the  West  Indies.  It  is  made  by  scalding  the  roots  when  they 
are  green  and  full  of  sap,  then  peeling  them  in  cold  water,  and  putting  them  into  jars,  with  a  rich 
syrup,  in  which  state  we  receive  them.  It  should  be  chosen  of  a  bright  yellow  colour  with  a  little 
transparency  ;  what  is  dark-coloured,  fibrous  and  stringy,  is  not  good. 

2043.- GOOSEBERRY      CREAM.        (Fr.— Creme    de 
Groseille  Verte.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  gooseberry  puree,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  vanilla  cream  No.  2062,  spinach  greening. 

Method. — Cook  the  gooseberries  in  a  stew-jar  until  tender,  pass  them 
through  a  hair  sieve,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Make  the  cream  as  directed, 
but  omit  the  vanilla  flavouring.  Add  to  it  the  gooseberry  puree  with 
a  few  drops  of  spinach  colouring,  and  pour  into  a  prepared  mould. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

2044.— ITALIAN  CREAM.    (Fr.— Creme  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  cream,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  gelatine, 
sugar  to  taste,  the  yolks  of  4  eggs,  the  thin  rind  and  strained  juice  of 
i  lemon. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  a  little  cold  water  for  \  an  hour,  and 
afterwards  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  dissolved.  Boil  up  the  milk, 


RECIPES  FOR  CREAMS  1009 

infuse  the  lemon-rind  for  20  minutes,  then  add  the  gelatine,  yolks  of 
eggs,  lemon-juice,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until 
the  mixture  thickens,  then  strain,  and,  when  cool,  stir  in  the  stiffly- 
whipped  cream.  The  preparation  may  be  turned  into  a  mould  and  put 
aside  until  set,  or  it  may  be  at  once  served  in  a  glass  dish  or  jelly- 
glasses. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sd.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

2045.— LEMON  CREAM.       (Fr.—  Creme  au  Citron.) 

Ingredients. —  r  pint  of  cream,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon-juice,  i  heaped 
tablespoonful  of  ground  almonds,  2  glasses  of  sherry,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  adding  the  rest  of  the  ingredients 
gradually,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Serve  in  jelly  glasses.  For  a  moulded 
cream,  see  Vanilla  Cream,  and  substitute  lemon- juice  for  vanilla. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  to 
fill  12  small  glasses. 

2046.— ORANGE  CREAM.     (Fr.— Creme  a  1'Orange.) 

Ingredients. — i  good  orange,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade, 
vanilla  cream. 

Method. — Make  the  cream  as  directed,  but  omit  the  vanilla  flavouring, 
add  the  strained  juice  of  the  orange,  the  rind  finely-grated,  and  the 
marmalade  well  reduced.  Pour  into  a  prepared  mould,  and  place  on 
ice  until  set. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

2047.— PEACH  CREAM.  (Fr.— Bavaroise  aux  Peches.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  peach  puree,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  castor 
sugar,  i  gill  of  apricot  syrup,  }  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine. 

Method. — Pass  sufficient  peaches  through  a  hair  sieve  to  make  the 
required  amount  of  puree.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  and  sugar  in  the 

and  stir  in  the  stiffly-whipped  cream.       Turn  into  the  pre, 
mould,  and  let  it  remain  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  set. 

Time. — From  25   to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about    is.  6d. 
elusive  of  decoration  or  garnish.     Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

2048.— PINEAPPLE  CREAM.   (Fr.— Creme  d'Ananas.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  cream,  i  gill  of  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  pineapple 
of  pineapple  cut  into  dice,  i\  ozs.  of  castor 
,  |  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice. 
Method.— Whip  the  cr  ir  it  lightly  into  the  pineapple 


lOio        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

puree,  and  add  the  pineapple  dice.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  and  sugar 
in  the  water,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  when  sufficiently  cool,  stir  it 
lightly  into  the  cream,  etc.  Pour  into  the  prepared  mould,  and  set 
on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  firm. 

Time. — From  30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  Suffi- 
cient for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

PINEAPPLE  (Fr.  ananas). — The  pineapple  is  a  native  of  tropical  South  America,  but  is  now  widely 
found  in  all  tropical  countries.  It  is  a  peculiar  growth  of  the  Ananassa  sativa.  The  fruit,  which  much 
resembles  a  pine-cone,  is  of  a  delicious  and  delicate  flavour,  slightly  reminiscent  of  turpentine,  con- 
taining sugar,  and  is  a  sub-acid.  In  proper  condition  it  should  be  soft,  sweet  and  full  of  juice.  It  is 
much  appreciated  as  a  dessert  fruit,  and,  owing  to  its  delicious  and  characteristic  flavour,  is  well 
adapted  for  use  in  the  kitchen  in  preparing  a  large  variety  of  sweet  dishes.  The  finest  fruit  for  table 
use  is  grown  in  the  United  Kingdom  in  specially  heated  glass  pine-houses.  Enormous  quantities 
are  also  imported  from  the  West  Indies,  the  Azores,  etc.  These  are  packed  while  still  hard,  and 
ripen  on  the  journey.  Pineapples  are  also  preserved  in  tins,  in  glass  with  syrup,  and  candied,  m  all 
of  which  forms  they  are  most  useful  to  the  cook.  It  was  first  known  in  Europe  about  250  years  ago, 
and  appears  to  have  been  cultivated  in  England  in  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century.  From  the 
fibre  of  the  pineapple  a  beautiful  cloth,  called  "  pina,"  is  manufactured. 

2049.— PISTACHIO  CREAM.      (Fr.— Creme  aux  Pis- 
taches.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  cream,  4  ozs.  of  pistachio  nuts,  2  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  i  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  a  little  sap-green  liquid  colouring. 

Method. — Blanch,  skin  and  chop  the  pistachios  finely.  Dissolve  the 
gelatine  and  sugar  in  3  tablespoonfuls  of  water.  Whip  the  cream 
stiffly,  add  the  gelatine  when  cool,  the  pistachios,  and  sap-green  drop 
by  drop,  until  the  desired  colour  is  obtained.  Pour  into  a  decorated 
mould  (see  p.  985),  and  let  it  remain  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until 
firmly  set. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  9d.  to  45.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

2050.— RASPBERRY    CREAM.          (Fr.— Creme    aux 
Framboises.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  cream,  %  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i£  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  %  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  £  of  a  pint  of  raspberry 
syrup,  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  raspberry  jam. 

Method. — When  raspberry  jam  is  used  instead  of  syrup,  pass  it 
through  a  hair  sieve,  dilute  with  water  to  make  the  required  quantity, 
and  add  a  few  drops  of  cochineal.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  and  sugar 
in  the  milk,  add  the  lemon-juice,  mix  with  the  raspberry  syrup,  and 
stir  in  the  stiffly-whipped  cream. 

Time. — About  |  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  i  medium-sized  mould. 

2051.— RICE  CREAM.     (Fr.— Riz  a  1'Imperatrice.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  Caroline  rice,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  |  of  an  oz. 


RECIPES   FOR   CREAMS  ion 

of  leaf  gelatine,  i  pint  of  milk,  4-  a  pint  of  cream,  vanilla  or  other 
flavouring,  fruit  compote  (see  p.  1025). 

Method. — Simmer  the  rice  in  the  milk  until  perfectly  tender,  and  when 
the  milk  is  nearly  absorbed,  stir  frequently  to  prevent  the  rice  sticking 
to  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Melt  the  gelatine  in  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  water,  stir  it  into  the  rice  with  the  sugar  and  flavouring  ingredient, 
and  when  sufficiently  cool  add  the  stiffly-whipped  cream.  Turn  into 
a  decorated  border  mould,  and  allow  it  to  remain  on  ice  or  in  a  cold 
place  until  set.  Serve  the  compote  of  fruit  piled  in  the  centre. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.,  exclusive  of  the  fruit 
compote.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized  mould. 


2052.— RICE  CREAM.      (Fr. — Creme  de  Riz.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  2  ozs.  of  ground  rice, 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  vanilla  essence,  or  other 
flavouring. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  and  sugar  to  boiling  point,  sprinkle  in  the 
md  simmer  gently  for  about  20  minutes.  Dissolve  the  gelatine 
in  i  tablespoonful  of  water,  add  it  to  the  rice,  flavour  to  taste  with 
vanilla  essence,  and  when  cool,  mix  in  as  lightly  as  possible  the  stiffly- 
whipped  cream.  Pour  into  the  prepared  mould,  and  set  aside  until 
firm. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  5d.  to  is.  jd.  Sufficient 
for  i  medium-sized  mould. 


2053.— RUM  CREAM.     (Fr.— Creme  au  Rhum.) 

Ingredients. —  i  wincglassful  of  rum,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  £  of  an  oz.  of  leaf 
gelatine,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  i  bay-leaf. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  to  boiling  point,  put  in  the  bay-leaf,  and 
infuse  for  20  minutes.  Add  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  until  the 
mixture  thickens,  then  put  in  the  gelatine  previously  dissolved  in  a 
little  hot  water,  and  remove  the  bay-leaf.  Add  the  rum,  stir  occa- 
sionally until  cool,  and  pour  into  a  mould  rinsed  with  cold  water. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 


2054.— SOLID  CREAM. 

Ingredients.— i  pint  of  double  cream,  castor  sugar  to  taste,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon- juice,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy. 

Method. — Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  add  the  lemon-juice  and  brandy, 
and  sweeten  to  taste.  Serve  in  jelly  glasses. 

Time. — 25  minutes.    Average  Cost,  2s.  Od.    Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 


ioi2  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2055.— STONE  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  heaped  up  tablespoonful 
of  arrowroot,  3  drops  each  of  essence  of  cloves  and  almonds,  jam,  strips 
of  angelica,  glace  cherries. 

Method. — Place  a  good  layer  of  jam  at  the  bottom  of  a  glass  dish. 
Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil  the  remainder, 
pour  it  over  the  arrowroot,  stirring  meanwhile.  Replace  in  the  stew- 
pan,  add  the  sugar,  simmer  gently  for  2  or  3  minutes,  and  stir  in  the 
flavourings.  Stir  the  mixture  occasionally  until  nearly  cold,  then 
pour  it  over  the  jam,  and  garnish  with  angelica  and  cherries. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 

2056.— STRAWBERRY    CREAM.        (JFV.— Creme    de 
Praises.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  strawberries,  \  a  pint  of  cream,  3  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  f  of  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  the  juice  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Pick  the  strawberries  and  pass  them  through  a  fine  hair 
seive.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  and  sugar  in  2  tablespoonfuls  of  water, 
and  add  the  lemon-juice.  Strain  the  gelatine,  etc.,  into  the  strawberry 
puree,  add  the  cream  well-whipped,  mix  lightly  together,  and  pour  into 
the  prepared  mould.  Set  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  firm. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for  i 
medium-sized  mould.  Seasonable  from  June  to  August. 

2057.— STRAWBERRY    CREAMS,    SMALL.       (Fr.— 
Petits  pains  de  Praises  a  la  Moderne.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  ripe  strawberries,  i  pint  of  lemon  or  wine  jelly, 
Nos.  2004,  2020,  i  tablespoonful  of  Maraschino,  \  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine, 
i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  eggs,  angelica. 

Method. — Line  the  moulds  with  jelly,  and  decorate  them  with  leaves 
of  angelica  and  halved  strawberries  (see  p.  985).  Boil  the  loaf  sugar 
and  i  gill  of  cold  water  to  a  syrup.  Pass  the  remainder  of  the  straw- 
berries through  a  fine  sieve,  place  in  a  large  basin  with  the  syrup, 
sugar,  Maraschino,  beaten  eggs,  gelatine  dissolved  in  i  tablespoonful 
of  water,  and  whisk  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  until  the  mixture 
thickens.  Now  stand  the  basin  on  ice  or  on  a  cold  slab,  stir  frequently 
until  cold  and  on  the  point  of  setting,  then  pour  into  the  prepared 
moulds. 

Time. — 2  hours,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  25.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  8  or  10  small  moulds. 

Note. — As  the  mixture  is  poured  less  quickly  into  small  moulds  than  one 
large  one,  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  come  quite  so  near  setting  point.  If, 
however,  it  stiffens  during  the  process  of  filling  the  moulds,  it  should  be 
slightly  re-heated  over  a  saucepan  of  hot  water. 


RECIPES   FOR  CREAMS  1013 

2058.— SWISS  CREAM.      (Fr— Creme  a  la  Suisse.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  cream,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  sherry, 
i  oz  .of  castor  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  cornflour,  i  lemon,  i  teaspoonful, 
of  finely-chopped  pistachios,  sponge  cake. 

Method. — Cut  the  cake  into  i-inch  thick  slices,  place  them  in  a  deep 
silver  or  glass  dish,  and  pour  over  the  sherry.  Mix  the  cornflour 
smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the  remainder  with  the  thinly-cut 
lemon-rind  and  sugar  until  pleasantly  flavoured,  remove  the  lemon 
rind,  then  add  the  blended  cornflour  and  milk,  boil  for  2  or  3  minutes, 
and  let  the  mixture  cool.  Whip  the  cream  slightly,  add  it  and  the 
lemon-juice  to  the  cornflour  preparation,  and  pour  over  the  sponge 
cake.  Sprinkle  with  the  pistachios,  and  serve  when  perfectly  cold. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d., 
exclusive  of  the  cake.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized  dish. 


2059.— TAPIOCA  CREAM.     (Fr. — Creme  au  Tapioca." 

Ingredients. — 1|   ozs.    of   French  crushed  tapioca  (sold  in  paci 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  quart  of  milk,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  c: 
4  yolks  of  eggs,  the  thinly-cut  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  i  bay-leaf,  £  a  small 
pot  of  red-currant  jolly,  an  equ.il  quantity  of  lemon  or  wine  j 

Method. —Mix  and  dissolve  the  jellies,  and  when  cool  pour  the  pre- 
paration on  the  bottom  of  a  border  mould,  and  let  it  set.     Bring  the 
milk,  bay-leaf,  and  lemon-rind  to  the  boil,  and  sprinkle  in  the  tapioca. 
gently  for  about  ^  an  hour,  then  add  the  sugar,  beaten  yolks  of 
and  stir  until  the  mixture  thickens.     Remove  the  bay-leaf  and 
lemon-rind,  and  when  cool  stir  in  the  stiffly -whipped  cream,  and  pour 
the  mixture  into  the  prepared  mould. 

Time. — From  i^  to  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.     Suffi- 
cient for  i  large  mould. 


2060.— TEA  CREAM.     (Fr.— Creme  au  The.) 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  good  tea,  £  oz.  of  gelatine,  £  pint  of  milk, 
£  pint  of  cream,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method.  —Bring  the  milk  to  boiling  point,  pour  it  over  the  tea, 
let  it  infuse  for  20  minutes,  then  strain  and  add  half  the  cream.  Dis- 
solve the  gelatine  in  a  little  boilin  :i  it  into  the  cream,  and 
sweeten  t<  A  hip  the  remainder  of  the  cream  stiffly,  stir  it  into 
the  t«  hen  sufficiently  cool.  .  Pour  into  a  mould  rinsed  with 
cold  water  and  let  set. 

Time.— About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  js.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
pers* 


ioi4  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2061.— VANILLA  CREAM.     (Fr.—  Creme    a    la  Van- 
ille.) 

Ingredients. — i£  pints  of  milk,  \  pint  of  cream,  i-J-  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
\  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  2 
teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  them  to  the  milk  when  nearly 
boiling,  stir  until  they  thicken,  put  in  the  sugar,  and  let  the  preparation 
cool.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  i  tablespoonful  of  water,  and  add  it 
with  the  brandy  and  vanilla  essence  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients. 
Whip  the  cream  slightly,  stir  it  lightly  into  the  preparation  when  cool, 
and  poor  into  the  prepared  mould. 

Time. — From  40  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd.  to  25.  Sufficient  for 
i  large  mould. 

2062.— VANILLA  CREAM.    (Fr.— Creme  a  la  Vanille.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  leaf 
gelatine,  i  gill  of  water,  i  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  add  the  castor  sugar  and  vanilla 
essence.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  the  water,  when  cool,  strain  into  the 
cream,  mix  well,  and  pour  into  the  prepared  mould.  Let  it  remain 
on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  set. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  25.  4d.  Sufficient  for 
i  medium-sized  mould. 

VANILLA  is  the  fruit  of  vanilla  aromatica,  a  parasitical  orchid  which  flourishes  in  Brazil,  Mexico, 
Peru,  and  many  other  places.  The  fruit  is  a  long  capsule,  thick  and  fleshy.  Certain  species  of  this 
fruit  contain  a  pulp  with  a  delicious  perfume  and  flavour.  Vanilla  is  principally  imported  from 
Mexico.  The  capsules  for  export  are  always  picked  at  perfect  maturity.  The  essence  is  the  form 
in  which  it  is  used  generally  and  most  conveniently.  Its  properties  are  stimulating.  Vanilla  is  in 
daily  use  for  ices,  chocolates,  and  flavouring  confections  generally. 

2063.— VELVET  CREAM.    (Fr.— Creme  a  la  Veloute.) 

Ingredients. — %  a  pint  of  cream,  \  a  gill  of  water,  i  wineglassful  of 
brandy  or  sherry,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  gelatine  and  sugar  in  the  water,  and  add  the 
sherry  or  brandy.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  add  to  the  rest  of  the  in- 
gredients when  cool,  and  mix  well.  Pour  into  the  prepared  mould, 
and  let  it  stand  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  firm. 

Time. — From  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is,.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  i  small  mould. 


RECIPES  FOR  COLD  SWEETS  1015 

Cold  Sweets 

2064.— ALMOND  CUSTARD. 

Ingredients. —  i  tables poonful  of  finely-chopped  almonds,  almond- 
essence,  £  an  oz.  of  potato  flour,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  3  sheets 
or  £  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  i  i-  pints  of  milk. 

Method.— -.Mix  the  potato  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  up  the 
remainder,  and  pour  it  over  the  potato  flour,  stirring  the  mixture 
meanwhile.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  simmer  gently  for  3  minutes, 
then  add  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
until  the  mixture  thickens.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  little  hot  water, 
add  it  to  the  custard,  and  strain.  Stir  in  the  almonds,  add  almond 
essence  to  taste,  and  use  for  filling  eclairs,  cornets,  etc. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

2065.— APPLE    COMPOTE.      (See  Compote  of   Fruit, 
No.   2099,  and  Stewed  Fruit,   No.    2160.) 


2066.— APPLE  CUSTARD. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  apples,  6  ozs.  of  sugar,  4  eggs,  i  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  stew  them  with  4  ozs.  of 
sugar  and  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  water  until  tender,  then  pass  through 
a  ha-ir  .sieve,  or  beat  to  a  pulp.  Bring  the  milk  nearly  to  boiling  point, 
put  in  the  remainder  of  the  sugar  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  and 
cook  gently  until  the  mixture  thickens,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil. 
Whisk  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  sweeten  with  a  little  castor 
sugar.  Place  the  apple  pulp  at  the  bottom  of  a  piedish,  pour  the 
custard  on  top,  and  cover  lightly  with  the  white  of  egg.  Sprinkle  the 

e  liberally  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  cool 
until  the  meringue  hardens  and  acquires  a  little  colour. 

Time. — About  ij  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  id.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2067.— APPLE  FOOL. 

Ingredients. —  i    pint  of  apple  pulp,   £  of  a  pint  of  ipped- 

i,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Bake  or  stew  the  apples,  pass  them  through  a  fine  sieve, 
sweeten  to  taste,  and  stir  in  the  cream.  Serve  in  a  glass  dish,  or  custard 

Time.- About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 


ioi6  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2068.— APPLE      FROST     WITH      CREAM.  (Fr. 

— Pommes  M6ringuees  a  la  Creme.) 

Ingredients. — 10  small  sour  cooking  apples,  10  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
castor  sugar,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  3  whites  of  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  i  inch  of  cinnamon,  2  cloves,  10  crystallized  cherries,  angelica. 

Method. — Peel  and  core  the  apples  carefully  without  breaking.  Place 
the  loaf  sugar  in  a  stewpan  with  •$•  a  pint  of  water,  the  sugar,  lemon- 
juice,  cloves  and  cinnamon,  and  reduce  to  a  syrup,  skimming  mean- 
while. Arrange  the  apples  in  a  saute-pan,  pour  the  syrup  round,  cover 
with  a  buttered  paper,  and  bake  gently  until  tender.  Transfer  them 
to  a  buttered  baking-sheet,  cover  the  entire  surface  lightly  with  stiifiy- 
whisked  sweetened  white  of  egg,  by  means  of  a  pipe  and  forcing-bag, 
and  dredge  well  with  castor  sugar.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  the 
meringue  hardens  and  acquires  a  little  colour,  and  let  them  become 
quite  cold.  When  ready  to  serve,  whip  the  cream  stiffly,  stir*  in  i 
dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  pile  a  little  in  the  centre  of  each  apple, 
dish  each  one  on  a  little  bed  of  cream,  and  serve  the  remainder  in  the 
centre  of  the  dish.  Decorate  each  apple  with  a  cherry  and  strips  of 
angelica,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  2s.  pd.  Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2069.— APPLE  HEDGEHOG. 

Ingredients. — i  dozen  sour  cooking  apples,  5  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  castor 
sugar,  i  oz.  of  blanched  baked  almonds,  2  whites  of  eggs,  the  finely- 
grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Peel  the  apples,  core  8  of  them  carefull}',  and  slice  the 
remainder.  Place  the  8  whole  apples  in  a  stewpan  with  the  moist 
sugar  and  water,  stew  gently  until  tender,  then  transfer  them  carefully 
to  a  dish.  Put  the  sliced  apples  into  the  stewpan,  cook  them  in  the 
syrup  until  perfectly  soft,  and  beat  them  to  a  pulp.  Spread  a  layer 
of  this  pulp  on  a  dish,  place  the  whole  apples  on  the  top  of  it,  fill  the 
spaces  between  them  with  apple  pulp,  and  cover  the  surface  with  the 
remainder,  raising  it  slightly  in  the  centre,  in  the  form  of  a  dome.  Whisk 
the  whites  of  eggs  stiffly,  sweeten  to  taste  with  castor  sugar,  and  spread 
lightly  over  the  apples.  Insert  the  strips  of  almonds  uniformly,  to 
represent  the  back  of  a  hedgehog,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i  J  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or 
7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2070.— APPLE  SNOW.     (Fr.— Pommes  a  la  Neige.) 

Ingredients. — 6  apples,  6  whites  of  eggs,  4  or  5  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  the 
thinly-cut  rind  of  i  lemon. 


COLD  SWEETS* 


-.  * 


I.     Charlotte  Kusse.        2.     Savarin  Triflle. 


COLD   SWEETS. 


i.  Savoy  or  Sponge  Cake.         2.   Ratifia  Trifle. 


66 


RECIPES   FOR  COLD  SWEETS  1017 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  place  them  in  a  jar  with  the 
sugar,  lemon-rind,  and  2  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  and  stew  gently  on 
the  stove  or  in  the  oven  until  tender.  Pass  through  a  sieve,  add  more 
sugar  if  necessary,  and  let  the  pulp  become  quite  cold.  Then  whip 
Kites  stiffly,  add  them  to  the  pulp,  and  continue  the  whisking 
until  the  mixture  becomes  stiff.  Serve  in  custard-glasses  or  on  a  glass 
dish. 

Time. — From  i£  to  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

207I.  —APPLE  SNOW.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 6  apples,  2  whites  of  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  castor 
sui^ir,  i  tablespoonful  of  coarsely-chopped  candied  peel,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls of  sherry,  the  thinly-cut  rind  of  £  a  lemon. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 

with   the  \vater,  sherry,   sugar  and  lemon-rind.     Cook   gently   until 

tender,  pass  through  a  hair  sieve,  add  the   stiffly-whisked  whites  of 

eggs,  and  whisk  until  the  mixture  becomes  firm.     Stir  in  the  candied 

and  serve  in  small  glasses. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  to  is.  jd.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2072.— APPLE  SNOW.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients.— 2  Ibs.  of  sour  cooking  apples,  4  or  5  ozs.  of  sugar,  the 
thinly-cut  rind  of  i  lemon,  2  whites  of  eggs. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  stew  them  with  3  tablespoon- 
fuls of  water,  the  lemon-rind  and  sugar  until  tender,  then  pass  them 
through  a  sieve.     Add   more  sugar  if  necesssary,  let  the  apple  pulp 
ic  quite  cold,  and   mix   lightly   in   the   stiffly-whisked  whites  of 

Serve  in  jelly-glasses  or  on  a  glass  dish. 

Time.— About  i*  hours.  Average  Cost,  9-.!.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2073.—  APPLE  TRIFLE.     (Fr.—  Trifle  de  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  sour  cooking  apples,  6  ozs.  of  sugar,  £  of  a  pint 
of  cream,  £  a  pint  of  custard,  No.  2104,  3  sponge  cakes,  the  finely-grated 
rind  of  £  a  lemon,  glace  cherries,  angelica. 

Method.— Peel,  core,  slice  the  apples,  stew  them  with  the  lemon-rind, 
sugar  and  2  tablespoonfuls  of  water  in  a  jar  until  tender,  and  rub 
through  a  hair  sieve.  Cut  each  sponge  cake  into  3  or  4  slices,  place 
them  in  a  glass  dish,  cover  with  the  apple  puree,  pour  over  the  custard, 
and  let  t!  itiou  stand  until  perfectly  cold.  Then  whip  the 

cream  stiffly,  spread  it  lightly  over  the  entire  surface,  and  garnish  with 
Calved  cherries  and  strips  of  angelica. 


ioi3  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Time. — Altogether,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  gd.  to  2s.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  y  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2074.— APPLES    AND    CREAM.     (Fr.—  Pommes  a  la 
Chantilly.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  sour  cooking  apples,  5  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  i 
lemon,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  place  them  in  a  jar  with 
the  thinly-cut  rind  of  the  lemon,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  water  and  the 
sugar,  and  cook  on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven  until  tender.  Pass  through 
a  hair  sieve,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  more  sugar,  if  necessary,  and 
£•  fill  custard  glasses  with  the  preparation.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly, 
sweeten  to  taste,  and  pile  lightly  on  the  top  of  the  apple  puree. 

Time. — From  i£  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2075.— APPLES   IN   RED   JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 6  apples,  6  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  -V  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine, 
i  pint  of  boiling  water,  the  thinly-cut  rind  of  i  lemon,  4  cloves,  i  white 
of  egg,  castor  sugar,  cochineal. 

Method. — Peel  and  core  the  apples,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  large 
enough  to  allow  them  to  stand  side  by  side,  pour  over  them  the  hot 
water,  in  which  the  loaf  sugar  has  been  previously  dissolved,  and  add  the 
lemon-rind  and  cloves.  Cover,  and  stew  very  gently  until  the  apples 
are  tender,  then  remove  them,  brush  the  tops  of  them  with  white  of 
egg.  and  sprinkle  liberally  with  castor  sugar.  Add  the  gelatine  to  the 
contents  of  the  stewpan,  stir  until  dissolved,  then  strain  into  a  basin, 
and  colour  red  with  cochineal.  Place  the  apples  in  a  deep  glass  dish, 
pour  the  syrup  round,  and  put  aside  in  a  cold  place  until  set. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2076.— APRICOT  COMPOTE.     (See  Compote  of  Fruit, 
No.  2099,  and  Stewed  Fruit,  No.  2160,) 

2077.— APRICOT  MOULD.     (Fr.— Pain  d'Abricot.) 

Ingredients. —  U  pints  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  ground  rice,  i  oz.  of  castor 
sugar,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot  jam,  or  £  gill  apricot  pulp,  and  £  a 
gill  of  cream. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  to  boiling  point,  sprinkle  in  the  ground 
rice,  and  simmer  for  about  10  minutes.  Dilute  the  jam  or  pulp  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  hot  water,  and  press  it  through  a  sieve  or  strainer  into  the 


RECIPES   FOR   COLD  SWEETS  1019 

stewpan.  Add  the  sugar,  and  when  well-mixed,  pour  the  preparation 
into  a  wetted  border  mould.  Let  it  stand  until  set,  then  turn  out, 
and  pile  the  stiffly- whipped  sweetened  cream  in  the  centre. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

2078.— APRICOT  TRIFLE.     (Fr.—  Trifle  d'Abricot.) 

Ingredients. —  i  bottle  or  tin  of  apricots,  stale  sponge  cake,  J  of  a  pint 
of  cream,  i  tablespoonful  of  almonds  blanched  and  shredded,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Strain  the  apricots,  and  boil  the  syrup  and  sugar  together 
for  £  an  hour.  Cut  the  sponge  cake  into  £-inch  slices,  and  stamp  them 
out  into  rounds  a  little  larger  than  |  an  apricot.  Place  them  on  a  dish, 
pour  the  syrup  over  them,  and  let  them  soak  for  i  hour.  Now  remove 
them  to  the  dish  in  which  they  will  be  served,  and  add  £  an  apricot  to 
each  piece.  Strain  the  syrup,  mix  with  it  the  lemon-juice,  and  pour 
it  over  the  apricots.  Stick  the  shredded  almonds  in  the  apricots, 
and  serve  the  stiffly-whipped  sweetened  cream  piled  in  the  centre  of 
the  dish.  Peaches  or  pineapple  may  also  be  used  in  this  manner, 
the  trimmings  of  the  latter  being  mixed  with  the  cream.  For  a  plain 
dish,  stale  bread  may  replace  the  sponge  cake,  and  a  good  custard 
may  be  substituted  for  the  cream. 

Time.— Altogether,  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

2079.— ARROWROOT  BLANCMANGE. 

Ingredients. — 4  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  arrowroot,  sugar  to  taste, 
i£  pints  of  milk,  lemon-rind,  vanilla  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  bring 
the  remainder  to  boiling  point,  put  in  the  flavouring  ingredient,  and  infuse 
for  20  minutes.  Strain  the  milk  over  the  blended  arrowroot  and  stir, 
replace  in  the  stewpan,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  boil  gently  for  a  few 
minutes.  Rinse  the  mould  with  cold  water,  pour  in  the  preparation, 
and  put  aside  until  set.  Serve  with  stewed  fruit,  jam,  or  cold  custard 
sauce. 

Time. — About  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  7d.  or  8d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 

2080.— BANANA  BLANC  MANGE. 

Ingredients. — 2  bananas,  i  quart  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  cornflour,  2  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the 
remainder,  add  the  sugar  and  blended  cornflour,  and  simmer  gently 


1020        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

for  5  minutes.  Let  it  cool,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken.  Now  put  in  the  bananas  thinly- 
sliced,  and  the  vanilla  essence,  and  pour  the  preparation  into  a  wetted 
mould. 

Time. — From  30  to  35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 
ohdA'b  f)!; 

2081.— BANANA  CANTALOUP. 

Ingredients. — Firm  bananas,  crushed  ice,  Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Let  the  bananas  remain  on  ice  for  at  least  12  hours,  then 
remove  the  skins,  and  cut  the  bananas  into  thick  slices.  Fill  a  finger 
bowl  with  finely-crushed  ice,  piling  it  high  in  the  centre,  and  place  the 
bowl  on  a  dish  covered  with  a  serviette.  Replace  the  sliced  bananas 
in  their  original  form,  and  arrange  them  overlapping  each  other  round 
the  bowl  of  ice.  Serve  with  salt  and  Krona  pepper. 

Time. — 12  to  13  hours.  Average  Cost,  Good  Bananas,  2d.  each. 
Allow  i  to  each  person. 

2082.— BANANA  CHARLOTTE. 

Ingredients. — ^  a  pint  of  banana  pulp,  £  of  a  pint  of  stiffly-whipped 
cream,  %  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  sugar  to  taste,  Savoy  biscuits  or  strips  of 
bread  (see  Apple  Charlotte,  No.  1755). 

Method. — Obtain  the  pulp  by  passing  the  bananas  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water,  and  stir  it  over  the  fire  until 
dissolved.  Prepare  the  mould  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  making 
Apple  Charlotte.  Mix  the  banana  pulp  and  cream  lightly  to- 
gether, sweeten  to  taste,  add  the  gelatine,  and,  when  well  mixed, 
turn  into  the  prepared  mould. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.,  exclusive  of  Savoy 
biscuits.  Sufficient  for  a  pint  mould. 

2083.— BANANA  TRIFLE.     (Fr.—  Trifle  de  Banane.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  cream,  |  a  pint  of  lemon  jelly,  6  bananas, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot  jam  sieved,  a  good 
tablespoonful  of  almonds,  2  dozen  of  ratafias,  i  wineglassful  of  Maras- 
chino or  Cura9oa,  carmine. 

Method. — Pass  the  bananas  through  a  hair  sieve,  add  the  jam,  cool 
liquid  jelly,  and  the  Maraschino  or  Curasoa.  Dissolve  the  gelatine 
in  a  tablespoonful  of  water,  mix  with  the  other  ingredients,  add  a  few 
drops  of  carmine  to  brighten  the  colour,  and  pour  into  a  deep  dish. 
Blanch,  shred,  bake  the  almonds  brown,  and  let  them  become  perfectly 
cold.  When  ready  to  serve,  whip  the  cream  stiffly,  sweeten  to  taste 
with  castor  sugar,  and,  if  liked,  flavour  with  Maraschino  or  Cura9oa. 


RECIPES   FOR  COLD  SWEETS  1021 

Pile  lightly  on  the  top  of  the  jellied  preparation,  sprinkle  the  almonds 
over  the  entire  surface,  and  garnish  the  base  with  ratafias. 

Time.— About  3  or  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
i  dish.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2084. — BLANC  MANGE.  (See  Arrowroot  Blancmange, 
No.  2079,  Vanilla  Blancmange,  No.  2171, 
Cornflour  Blancmange,  No.  2100,  etc.) 

2085.— BORDER  OF  FIGS  WITH   CREAM.      (Fr.- 
Bordure  de  Figues  a  la  Creme.) 

Ingredients  — £  a  Ib.  of  dried  figs,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  £  of  an  oz.  of 
leaf  gelatine, -£  a  pint  of  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  the  thinly-cut  rind 
of  £  a  lemon, 

Method. — Cut  the  figs  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  a  jar  with  the 
water  (sherry  or  claret  may  replace  a  little  of  the  water  if  liked),  sugar 
ann  lemon-rind,  simmer  gently  on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven  until  tender, 
and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Stir  in  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  pour 
the  preparation  in  a  mould,  previously  wetted,  or  lined  with  jelly,  it 
preferred.  When  set,  turn  out  and  serve,  the  stiffly-whipped  sweetened 
cream  piled  in  the  centre. 

Time. — From  i-J-  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2086.— BORDER  OF  FRUIT.  (Fr.— Bordure  de  Fruits.) 

Ingredients. — 2  eggs,  the  weight  of  2  eggs  in  flour,  the  weight  of  2 
eggs  in  sugar,  2  bananas,  i  orange,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  grapes,  i  oz.  of  preserved 
cherries,  2  ozs.  of  strawberries,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  4-  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar, 
£  a  gill  of  brandy  and  Maraschino  (mixed),  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  a  few 
pistachios,  -£  a  pint  of  whipped  cream. 

Method. — Whisk  the  eggs  and  sugar  to  a  frothy  consistency,  and  sprinkle 
the  flour  in  lightly.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  in  greased  border  moulds 
for  about  10  minutes.  When  cooked,  turn  on  a  sieve  to  cool.  Boil 
the  sugar  and  water  for  about  20  minutes  until  a  thick  syrup  is  ob- 
tained, flavour  this  with  lemon-juice  and  the  liqueurs.  Prepare  the 
fruit  and  put  it  into  the  syrup.  Soak  the  borders  of  cake  with  the 
syrup,  pile  up  the  fruit,  and  force  whipped-cream  round  the  edge 
of  the  border  and  on  the  fruit  daintily  by  means  of  a  bag  and  rose 
pipe.  Any  fruit  may  be  used,  such  as  raspberries  and  red  currants. 
The  liqueurs  also  may  be  varied.  Decorate  the  dish  with  blanched 
pistachios  and  a  few  preserved  cherries. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.  to  33.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 


1022  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2087.— BORDER  OF  PRUNES  WITH  CREAM.    (Fr.— 
Bordures  de  Prunes  a  la  Creme.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  prunes,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  1  an  oz.  of  leaf 
gelatine,  i  gill  of  cream,  i  gill  of  claret,  the  thinly  cut  rind  of  -}  a  lemon, 
i  inch  of  cinamon,  lemon  or  wine  jelly. 

Method. — Stone  the  prunes,  place  them  in  a  jar  with  the  claret, 
sugar,  lemon- rind,  cinnamon,  and  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  stand  the  jar 
in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  or  in  a  cool  oven,  cook  until  tender, 
and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  little  water, 
and  stir  it  into  the  puree.  Have  ready  a  border  mould  lined  with  wine 
jelly,  pour  in  the  preparation,  let  it  remain  until  set,  then  turn  out, 
and  serve  with  the  stiffly-whipped  sweetened  cream  piled  in  the  centre. 

Time. — From  i^  to  i-J-  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  gd.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2088.— BOSTON  CUP  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — i  teacupful  of  flour,  i  teacupful  of  brown  moist  sugar, 
\  a  teacupful  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  \  a  teaspoonful 
of  grated  lemon-rind,  i-|-  ozs.  of  butter,  i  egg,  raspberry  jam. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  well  together,  beat  the  egg  in,  then 
add  the  lemon-rind  and  flour,  stir  in  the  milk,  and  lastly  the  baking- 
powder.  Have  ready  a  buttered  Yorkshire  pudding  tin,  pour  in  the  pre- 
paration, and  bake  from  20  to  25  minutes  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
When  cold,  split,  spread  a  good  layer  of  jam  between,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  ;d.  Sufficient 
for  i  dish. 

2089.— CANNELONS. 

Ingredients. — Strips  of  puff  paste,  about  16  inches  long  and  i  inch 
wide,  whipped  cream,  preserved  fruit,  jam,  or  jelly. 

Method.— Wrap  the  paste  round  short  sticks,  which  must  be  previ- 
ously greased  and  floured,  and  brush  them  over  with  egg.  Bake  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven,  and,  when  cold,  fill  them  with  sweetened  stiffly- 
whipped  cream,  fruit,  jam,  or  jelly.  Also  see  Cornucopians. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  id.  to  2d.  each. 
Allow  i  to  each  person. 

2090.— CHERRY  COMPOTE.     (See  Compote  of  Fruit, 
No.  2099,  and  Stewed  Fruit,  No.  2160.) 

2091.— CHOCOLATE  FARINA. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  chocolate,  4  ozs.  of  farina  (cornflour  will  serve), 
2.  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  quart  of  milk,  vanilla. 


RECIPES   FOR  COLD  SWEETS  1023 

Method.— Mix  the  farina,  or  cornflour,  smoothly  with  a  little  milk, 
heat  the  remainder,  add  the  sugar  and  chocolate  in  small  pieces,  and 
stir  until  dissolved.  Pour  the  boiling  milk,  etc.,  over  the  cornflour, 
stirring  meanwhile,  replace  in  the  stewpan,  and  simmer  gently  for  10 
minutes,  stirring  continuously.  Add  vanilla  to  taste,  and  pour  into 
a  mould  rinsed  with  cold  water. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

2092.— CHOCOLATE     MOULD.        (Fr.  -  -  Pain     au 
Chocolat.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  chocolate,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  gelatine, 
I  pint  of  milk,  vanilla. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  and  boil 
the  remainder  with  the  chocolate.  When  perfectly  smooth,  stir  in  the 
sugar  and  gelatine,  add  vanilla  essence  to  taste,  let  the  mixture  cool  a 
little,  then  pour  into  i  large  or  several  small  moulds. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  oxi.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons. 

2093.— CHOCOLATE  MOULD.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  chocolate,  2  ozs.  of  cornflour,  i  oz.  of  loaf 
sugar,  i  ±  pints  of  milk,  liquid  caramel  (see  p.  214). 

Method.— Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  put  the  rest 
into  a  stcwpan  with  the  chocolate  grated  or  broken  into  small  pieces, 
add  the  sugar,  and  simmer  until  dissolved.  Then  add  the  blended 
cornflour  and  milk,  simmer  very  gently  for  about  5  minutes,  and 
deepen  the  colour  by  adding  a  few  drops  of  caramel.  Turn  the  prepara- 
tion into  a  wet  mould,  and  let  it  remain  in  a  cold  place  until 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  od.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

2094.— COBURG  TRIFLE.     (Fr.— Trifle  a  la  Coburg.) 

Ingredients. — 6  stale  sponge  cakes,  macaroons,  raspberry  or  apricot 
jam,  J  a  pint  of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of  custard.  No.  2104,  i  glass  of 

sherry   or    Marsala,    angelica.  .    almonds   blanched    and 

shredded. 

Method. — Slice  the  sponge  cakes,  spread  £  of  them  with  jam,  and 

with  the  remainder.     Arrange  them  compactly  in  a  glass  dish. 

pour  the  wine  over  them,  place  the  mr-i  aioons  on  the  top  in  tli« 

of  a  pyramid,  and  cover  with  th<  Whip  the  cream  stiltly.  }>ile 

it  on  lightly,  and  garnish  with  strips  of  angelica  and  cherries  and  tin* 


1024  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

shredded  almonds.     This  dish  should  be  made  at  least  i  hour  before 
serving. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour,  after  the  custard  is  made.  Average 
Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  i  large  dish. 

2095.— COFFEE  CUSTARD.          (Fr.— Petites  Cremes 
au  Cafe.) 

Ingredients. — Coffee  essence,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  2  whites  of  eggs,  \  a 
pint  of  milk,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  nearly  to  boiling  point,  pour  it  over  the  eggs 
previously  beaten,  and  add  sugar  and  coffee  essence  to  taste.  Pour 
the  custard  into  buttered  china  ramakin  cases,  bake  until  set,  and 
serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
ramakins. 

Note. — Also  see  Moka  Custard  for  Filling  Eclairs. 

2096.— COFFEE  MOULD. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  coffee  essence, 
i£  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  over  the  gelatine;  when  dissolved  stir 
in  the  sugar  and  coffee  essence  to  taste.  Stir  occasionally  until  the 
preparation  becomes  cold  and  creamy,  then  pour  into  a  wetted  mould. 

Time. — From  30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  4d.  Sufficient  for  4  or 
5  persons. 

2097.— COLD    CABINET   PUDDING.      (Fr.— Pouding 
Cabinet  froid.) 

Ingredients. — Savoy  biscuits,  2  ozs.  of  ratafias,  %  a  pint  of  milk,  £ 
a  gill  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  4  yolks 
of  eggs,  glace  cherries,  vanilla  essence,  wine  jelly. 

Method. — Decorate  the  bottom  of  a  charlotte  mould,  previously 
lined  with  a  layer  of  jelly,  with  halves  or  rings  of  cherries,  and 
line  the  sides  of  the  mould  with  biscuits,  placing  them  alternately 
back  and  front  next  the  tin.  Bring  the  milk  nearly  to  boiling 
point,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of 
the  fire  until  they  thicken.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  and  sugar  in  i  or  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  water,  strain  into  the  custard,  and  add  vanilla  essence 
to  taste.  Place  the  ratafias  and  trimmings  of  the  Savoy  biscuits  in 
the  mould,  add  the  cream  to  the  custard  when  cool,  and  pour  into  the 
mould.  Let  it  stand  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until  set,  then  turn  out 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  i  medium 
sized  mould. 


SWEETS. 


10 


i.  — Pancakes.  a.  — Rice   and   Apple    Cake 

5.— Rice  Pudding.          6.— Stewed  Fruits. 
9. — Croquettes  of  Rice.       TO. — Gateau  St. 


3. — Eclairs.  4. — Assorted    Pastry. 

7.— Sugar  Trifle.          8.— Pyramid  Cream. 
Honor^.       u.— Simnel  Cake. 


RECIPES  FOR  COLD  SWEETS  2025 

2098.— COMPOTE  OF  APPLES  WITH  CREAM.  (Fr.- 
Compote  de  Pommes  a  la  Creme.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  sour  cooking  apples,  4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  oz.  of 
vanilla  sugar,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  2  cloves,  the  thinly-cut 
rind  of  £  a  lemon,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  glass  of  sherry,  i  glass  of  Maraschino. 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  stew  the  apples  with  the  loaf  sugar,  cloves, 
lemon-rind,  and  a  little  water  until  tender,  then  drain  well,  and  place 
them  in  a  glass  dish.  Bring  the  milk  nearly  to  boiling  point,  add  the 
beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  stir,  and  cook  slowly  until  they  thicken,  then  add 
the  cherry  and  vanilla  sugar.  Stir  frequently  until  the  custard  is  quite 
cold,  then  pour  it  over  the  apples.  "Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  sweeten 
to  taste  with  castor  sugar,  add  the  Maraschino,  pile  lightly  on  the  top 
of  the  custard,  then  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  from  2  to  2.\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd.  to  2s. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2099.— COMPOTE    OF    FRUIT.      (Fr.— Compote    de 
Fruits.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  fruit  cither 
fresh  or  preserved. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  boil  until  well  reduced, 
skimming  meanwhile.  Immersion  for  a  few  minutes  is  all  that  is 
necessary  when  using  preserved  fruits  ;  but  fresh  fruit  must  be  sim- 
mered in  the  prepared  syrup  until  sufficiently  cooked,  but  not  broken. 
The  compote  may  be  served  as  a  separate  sweet,  or  as  an  accompani- 
ment to  plain  creams,  blancmange,  etc. 

2100.— CORNFLOUR  BLANC  MANGE. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  cornflour  or  arrowroot,  i\  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
i  pint  of  milk,  bay-leaf,  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the  rest 
with  the  bay-leaf,  and  let  it  infuse  for  10  or  15  minutes.  Now  stir  in 
the  blended  cornflour,  and  cook  gently  for  5  minutes,  then  remove  the 
bay-leaf,  add  the  sugar,  and  pour  into  a  mould,  previously  rinsed  with 
cold  water.  Serve  with  jam,  stewed  fruit,  or  fruit  syrup. 

Time.— About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

2 1 01. —CREAM  EGGS. 

Ingredients. — Vanilla  blancmange  (i£  quantities  of  recipe  No.  2171), 
7  eggs. 

Method.— Make  a  small  hole  at  the  end  of  each  egg,  empty  them, 

L  L 


1026        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  as  far  as  possible  keep  the  yolks  separate  from  the  whites.  Make 
the  vanilla  custard  as  directed,  using  for  the  purpose  4  or  5  of  the  yolks, 
and  the  whites  of  3  ejgs.  When  cool,  put  it  into  the  egg-shells,  place 
them  in  an  upright  position  on  the  unbroken  end  until  set,  then  remove 
the  shells. 

Time. — To  prepare,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

2102.— CREAM  SNOW.     (Fr.— Creme  a  la  Neige.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  cream,  the  whites  of  2  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of 
castor  sugar,  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Whip  the  cream  and  whites  of  eggs  separately  to  a  stift  froth, 
then  mix  them  lightly  together,  add  the  sugar,  and  flavour  to  taste  with 
vanilla.  Pile  in  a  glass  dish,  and,  if  liked,  garnish  with  cherries  and 
strips  of  angelica. 

Time. — About  20  mintues.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

2103.— CUSTARD  BOILED,  No.  i. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  milk,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  i  to  \\  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  according  to  taste,  lemon-rind,  bay-leaf,  vanilla-pod,  or  other 
flavouring,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream. 

Method. — Rinse  a  stewpan  with  cold  water,  to  prevent  the  milk 
sticking  to  the  bottom.  Put  in  the  milk  and  flavouring  ingredient, 
simmer  gently  until  pleasantly  flavoured,  and  add  the  sugar.  Strain 
on  to  the  eggs  stirring  meanwhile,  return  to  the  stewpan,  and  stir  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Considerable  care  is 
needed  to  cook  custard  in  this  manner  without  curdling  it,  and  any  one 
inexperienced  should,  instead  of  replacing  the  preparation  in  the  stew- 
pan, pour  it  into  a  jug  or  double  saucepan,  place  whichever  is  used  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  the  custard  coats  the  spoon. 
Add  the  cream,  stir  2  or  3  minutes  longer  to  cook  the  cream,  and  let  the 
custard  cool,  stirring  frequently  meanwhile. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  ;d.     Sufficient  for  i  pint. 

2104.— CUSTARD  BOILED,  No.  2. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs,  i  oz.  of  loaf  sugar,  bay-leaf, 
lemon-rind,  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Prepare  the  custard  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Use  any  of  the  flavouring  ingredients  enumerated  there,  or,  if  pre- 
ferred, flavour  with  vanilla  or  other  essence. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  4d.  Sufficient  for  \  of 
a  pint. 


RECIPES  FOR   COLD  SWEETS  1027 

2105.— CUSTARD  BOILED,  No.  3. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  cornflour, 
i  egg,  lemon-rind  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  simmer  the 
remainder  with  the  lemon-rind  until  pleasantly  flavoured,  then  strain 
it  on  the  blended  cornflour,  stirring  meanwhile.  Replace  in  the  stew- 
pan,  simmer  gently  for  3  or  4  minutes  to  cook  the  cornflour,  add  the 
sugar,  and  let  the  preparation  cool  slightly.  Beat  the  egg,  add  it  to 
the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  let  the  custard  cool. 

Time. — About  25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.       Sufficient  for  i  pint. 

2106.— CUSTARD  MOULD. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  milk,  3  eggs,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  J  of  an  oz.  of 
leaf  gelatine,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  nearly  to  boiling  point,  add  the  sugar  and 
well-beaten  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture 
thickens,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Pour  it  on  the  gelatine  in  a  basin, 
add  the  brandy  and  vanilla,  stir  until  dissolved,  then  pour  into  i  large 
or  several  small  moulds.  Sherry  may  replace  the  brandy,  or  it  may  be 
omitted  altogether.  A  little  cold  jam  sauce  or  fruit  syrup  served  round 
the  dish  will  be  found  an  improvement. 

Time. — About  *  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  </d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

2107.— CUSTARD    MOULD.      (See  Caramel  Pudding, 
No.  1800.) 

2108.— DAMSON  COMPOTE.    (See  Compote  of  Fruit, 
No.  2099,  and  Stewed  Fruit,  No.  2160.) 

2109.— DEVONSHIRE      JUNKET.  (See  Junket, 

No.  2128.) 

21  io.— FIG  MOULD. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  fi^s,  6  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  i  lemon, 
i  pint  ol  water. 

Method. — Cut  the  figs  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
the  water,  sugar,  the  juice  and  thinly-cut  rind  of  the  lemon,  and  simmer 
until  tender.  Dissolve  the  «.-.« -latine  in  3  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  add 
it  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  i  large  or 
several  small  moulds.  Serve  with  whipped-cream  or  a  good  custard 
sauce. 

Time.— About  \  an  hour.    Average  Cost,  Sd.    Sufficient  for  4  or  5  per 


1028  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

21 1 1. —FLOATING  ISLAND. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  cream,  sweetened  and  stiffly  whipped,  2  whites 
of  eggs,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  raspberry  jam  or  red  currant  jelly. 

Method. — Beat  up  the  whites  of  eggs  till  stiff  and  mix  the  jam  or  jelly 
lightly.  Spread  the  whipped  cream  lightly  at  the  bottom  of  a  glass  dish, 
and  drop  tablespoonfuls  of  the  egg  mixture  on  the  surface,  making 
each  small  pile  as  rocky  as  possible. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  25.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  i  large  dish. 

21 12.— FRUIT  BLANC  MANGE. 

Ingredients. — Cornflour  or  ground  rice  blancmange,  stewed  fruit. 

Method. — Make  the  blancmange  as  directed,  and  put  a  good  layer 
at  the  bottom  of  large-sized  dariol  moulds.  When  set,  place  in  each 
mould  a  much  smaller  dariol,  and  fill  the  space  between  the  two  with 
blancmange.  Let  the  smaller  dariols  remain  until  the  blancmange  is 
firm,  then  remove  them,  fill  the  cavity  with  stewed  fruit,  and  cover 
with  blancmange.  When  set,  turn  out,  and  serve  with  custard  or 
whipped  cream. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  uncertain. 

2113.— FRUIT  MOULDS.  (See  Jelly  with  Bananas, 
No.  1999,  Jelly  with  Fruit,  No.  2001,  and 
Jelly  with  Oranges,  No.  2002.) 

2114.— FRUIT  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Stewed  fruit,  stale  sponge  cakes. 

Method. — Cut  the  sponge  cake  into  £-inch  slices,  and  with  them  line  a 
pudding  basin.  Stew  the  fruit  in  a  jar  until  tender,  sweeten  to  taste 
and  pour  both  fruit  and  syrup  into  the  basin.  Cover  with  slices  of  cake, 
press  it  down  with  a  plate  and  weight  until  cold,  then  serve  with  a  good 
custard  sauce.  For  a  plain  pudding,  stale  bread  may  be  used  instead 
of  the  cake. 

21 15.— FRUIT  SALAD.  (S^Compote  of  Fruit,  No.  2099.) 
2116.— GENEVA  WAFERS. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  fine  flour,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
2  eggs,  vanilla  essence,  cream,  apricot  jam. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  well  together,  beat  each  egg  in 
separately,  add  a  few  drops  of  vanilla,  and  stir  the  flour  in  as  lightly 
as  possible.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  forcing-bag  with  a  large  plain  pipe, 


RECIPES   FOR  COLD  SWEETS  1029 

force  it  out  on  a  well-buttered  baking-tin  in  portions  that  would  just 
fill  a  teaspoon,  and  spread  out  thinly  with  a  hot  wet  palettc-kniie. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  set,  then  take  them  out  carefully  with  a 
palette-knife,  and  wrap  them  round  buttered  cornet  tins.  Place  one 
inside  the  other,  to  keep  them  in  shape,  replace  in  the  oven,  and  bake 
until  lightly  browned,  turning  them  frequently  in  order  that  all  parts 
may  be  equally  coloured.  When  cool  remove  the  moulds,  partly  fill 
them  with  stiffly-whipped  sweetened  cream,  add  a  little  jam,  and  fill 
the  remaining  space  with  cream. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

2117.— GLAZED  APPLES. 

Ingredients. — Small  apples  of  equal  size,  lemon-juice,  syrup  No.  2277, 
apricot  jam  or  marmalade,  red  currant  jelly,  strips  of  angelica,  sugar. 

Method. — Pare  and  core  the  apples,  and  simmer  them  very  gently  in 
water  to  which  sugar  to  taste  and  a  little  lemon- juice  has  been  added. 
Drain  well,  pour  over  them  a  little  syrup,  and  cover  closely.  Wlu-u 
cold,  coat  the  apples  with  apricot  marmalade,  fill  the  cavities  from 
which  the  cores  were  removed  with  jelly,  and  decorate  tastefully  with 
strips  or  leaves  of  angelica. 

Time. — From  3  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  2$d.  each.  Allow  i 
to  each  person. 

21 18.— GOOSEBERRIES,  COMPOTE  OF.  (See  Compote 
of  Fruit,  No.  2099,  and  Stewed  Fruit,  No.  2160.) 

2119.— GOOSEBERRY    CHARLOTTE.        (Fr.— Char- 
lotte  de  Groseilles  Vertes.) 

Ingredients. — Gooseberry  cream,  No.  2043,  finger  biscuits, sponge  cake, 
or  Genoise. 

Method. — Line  a  plain  charlotte  mould  with  the  biscuits  or  slices  of  the 
cake,  cutting  them  to  fit  both  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  mould  care- 
fully. Make  the  cream  as  directed;  when  on  the  point  of  setting,  turn 
it  into  the  prepared  mould,  and  set  on  ice  until  firm. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  33.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable,  May  to  August. 

2120.— GOOSEBERRY  FOOL. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  green  gooseberries,  £  cf  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  I 
pint  of  cream,  £  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Top  and  tail  the  gooseberries,  cook  them  until  tender  with 
the  water  and  sugar  in  a  jar  placed  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Rub 


1030  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

them  through  a  hair  sieve,  add  more  sugar  if  necessary,  and  let  the  pulp 
become  quite  cold.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  and  stir  it  into  the  prepara- 
tion a  few  minutes  before  serving.  Send  to  table  in  custard-glasses 
or  in  i  large  dish. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average"  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  from  May  to  August. 

2121.—  GOOSEBERRY  TRIFLE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  green  gooseberries,  6  ozs.  of  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of 
cream,  £  a  pint  of  custard  No.  2104,  3  sponge  cakes,  i  oz.  of  almonds. 

Method. — Stew  the  gooseberries  with  the  sugar  and  4  tablespoonfuls 
of  water  in  a  jar  until  tender,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Divide 
each  sponge  cake  into  3  or  4  slices,  place  them  in  a  deep  dish,  cover  with 
the  gooseberry  pulp,  pour  over  the  warm  custard,  and  allow  the  prepara- 
tion to  become  perfectly  cold.  When  ready  to  serve  whip  the  cream 
stiffly,  spread  it  lightly  over  the  entire  surface,  sprinkle  with  almonds, 
previously  blanched,  shredded  and  baked  golden-brown,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons.  Seasonable  from  May  to  August. 

2122.— GREEN  FIG  COMPOTE. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  green  figs  (tinned  ones  will  serve),  |  a  Ib.  of 
loaf  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  finely- 
grated  rind  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Boil  the  water,  sugar  and  lemon-rind  for  20  minutes, 
add  the  figs,  and  simmer  very  gently  until  tender.  Remove  very 
carefully,  add  the  lemon-juice  to  the  syrup,  strain  it  over  the  figs,  and, 
when  cold,  serve.  Dried  figs  may  be  prepared  in  the  same  way. 


2123.— GREENGAGES,  COMPOTE  OF.     (See  Compote 
of  Fruit,  No.  2099,  and  Stewed  Fruit,  No.  2160.) 

2124.— GROUND  RICE  BLANC-MANGE. 

Ingredients. — 1£  ozs.  of  ground  rice,  i-J-  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  pint  of 
milk,  vanilla-pod,  lemon-rind  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Mix  the  ground  rice  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the 
remainder  with  the  vanilla-pod  or  lemon-rind,  and  let  it  infuse  for  a  few 
minutes.  Strain  on  to  the  blended  rice,  stirring  meanwhile;  replace 
in  the  stewpan,  and  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes.  Now  add  the  sugar, 
and  pour  into  a  wet  mould. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 


RECIPES   FOR   COLD  SWEETS  1031 

2125.— ICED  ORANGES. 

Ingredients. — Oranges,  icing  sugar,  and  to  each  Ib.  allow  2  stitily- 
whipped  whites  of  eggs. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  and  pith  carefully,  and  pass  a  thread 
through  the  centre  of  each  orange.  Beat  the  sugar  and  whites  of  eggs 
together  until  quite  smooth,  dip  each  orange  in  separately,  and  tie  them 
securely  to  a  stick.  Place  the  stick  across  the  oven,  which  must  be 
very  cool,  and  let  them  remain  until  dry.  If  well-coated  and  smoothed 
with  a  palette  knife  they  have  the  appearance  of  balls  of  snow. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  i£d.  each. 

2126.— ISINGLASS  BLANC-MANGE. 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  patent  isinglass,  sugar  to  taste,  \  a  pint  of 
cream,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  wineglassful  of  sherry,  2  or  3  thin  strips  of 
lemon-rind. 

Method. — Soak  the  isinglass  and  lemon-rind  in  the  milk  for  2  hours, 
then  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes.  Strain,  replace  in  the  stewpan, 
add  the  cream,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  boil  up.  When  cool,  stir  in  the 
cream,  and  turn  into  a  mould  rinsed  with  cold  water. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  90!.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

2127.—  JAUNE-MANGE. 

Ingredients. — The  yolks  of  6  eggs,  i  oz.  of  gelatine,  sugar  to  taste, 
the  thin  rind  and  strained  juice  of  i  large  lemon,  £  a  pint  of  white  wine, 
i  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  water  for  -J-  an  hour,  then  add  the 
lemon-rind,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved.  Strain 
into  a  jug  containing  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the  wine  and  lemon-juice, 
and  sweeten  to  taste.  Place  the  jug  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water, 
stir  until  the  contents  thicken,  and,  when  cool,  pour  into  a  mould 
rinsed  with  cold  water. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  }d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  about 
I  quart. 

2128.— JUNKET. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  milk,  junket  powder,  or  I  dessertspoonful  of 
ice  of  rennet,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Warm  the  milk  (the  exact  temperature  should  be  98°  F., 
the  natural  heat  of  the  milk),  put  it  into  the  bowl  or  deep  dish  in  which 
it  will  be  served,  add  the  sugar,  and  stir  in  the  rennet  or  junket  powder. 
Let  it  remain  in  a  moderately  warm  place  until  set.  The  amount  of 
junket  powder  required  is  stated  on  the  wrapper;  its  use  may  be  n 


1032  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

mended  in  preference  to  the  liquid  essence,  which,  in  consequence  of  its, 
varying  strength,  is  uncertain  in  its  results. 

Time. — About  i£  hours,  to  coagulate  the  milk.  Average  Cost,  4d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

2129.— LEMON  BLANC  MANGE.      (See  Vanilla  Blanc- 
mange, No.  2171.) 

Follow  the  directions  given,  substituting  lemon-rind  for  the  vanilla 
pod. 

2130.— LEMON  SPONGE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  water,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  leaf 
gelatine,  i  lemon,  i  white  of  egg. 

Method. — Heat  the  water,  sugar,  gelatine  and  thinly-cut  lemon-rind 
together,  stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  then  strain  to  the  white 
of  egg  and  lemon- juice  previously  mixed  in  a  large  basin.  Whisk  all 
together  until  stiff,  then  pile  on  a  dish,  and,  if  liked,  colour  the  last 
portion  with  carmine  or  cochineal,  and  place  it  on  the  top.  If  preferred, 
the  sponge  may  be  set  in  a  mould  rinsed  with  cold  water,  and  turned  out 
when  firm. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  3d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 


2131.— MACARONI,  SWEET. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  i£  pints  of  milk,  3  ozs.  of  sugar, 
the  thinly-cut  rind  of  i  lemon,  f  of  a  pint  of  custard  No.  2104,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk,  add  the  sugar,  lemon-rind,  macaroni  in  3-inch 
lengths,  and  simmer  gently  until  tender,  but  firm  and  unbroken. 
Place  the  macaroni  in  a  deep  dish,  let  it  become  quite  cold,  then  pour 
over  the  prepared  cold  custard,  grate  with  nutmeg,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

2132.— MACAROON  TRIFLE. 

Ingredients. — 12  or  14  macaroons,  6  ratafias,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar, 
3  ozs.  of  glace  fruits  (cherries,  etc.),  %  of  an  oz.  of  pistachios,  2  eggs, 
i|  gills  of  milk,  i  gill  of  cream,  i  gill  of  sherry. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  nearly  to  boiling  point,  add  the  sugar  and 
beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture 
thickens,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  or  the  eggs  may  curdle.  Place  the 
macaroons  compactly  in  a  deep  dish,  add  the  crumbled  ratafias,  and 
pour  over  the  sherry.  Stir  the  custard  frequently  until  quite  cold, 


LUNCHEON  SWEETS. 


i.  Bachelor's  Puddings.         2.  Chocolate  Eclairs.         3.  Snowdon  Puddings. 
67  LL* 


SWEETS. 


i.  Sweet  Pastry.         2.  Gooseberry  Tart.          3.  Cherry  Tartlets. 


68 


RECIPES  FOR   COLD  SWEETS  1033 

then  pour  it  over  the  biscuits,  pile  the  stiffly-whipped  sweetened  cream 
on  the  top,  and  garnish  with  shredded  pistachios  and  fruits. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  pd.    Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

2133.— MARBLED  MOULD. 

Ingredients. — Blancmange,  coffee  essence,  cochineal,  saffron-yellow, 
spinach-green. 

Method. — Prepare  the  blancmange  according  to  the  directions  given 
(see  Cornflour  and  Ground  Rice  Blancmanges,  No.  2100  and  2124),  divide 
it  into  4  equal  parts,  and  colour  them  respectively  with  coffee  essence, 
cochineal,  saffron-yellow  and  spinach-green.  Mould  separately,  and, 
when  cool,  divide  in  irregularly-shaped  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  walnut. 
Have  ready  some  white  blancmange  on  the  point  of  setting.  Place  the 
coloured  pieces  in  a  mould,  leaving  spaces  between  them,  fill  these 
with  white  blancmange,  and  put  aside  until  set. 

Time. — About  12  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  for  i  large  mould. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

2134.— MELON  CANTALOUP. 

Ingredients. —  i  Rock  melon,  crushed  ice,  Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Allow  the  melon  to  remain  imbedded  in  ice  for  at  least 
12  hours.  Leave  the  skin  on,  cut  the  melon  into  slices,  and  arrange 
round  a  bowl  of  ice,  as  directed  in  Banana  Cantaloup,  No.  2( 

Time. — From  12  to  13  hours.  Average  Cost,  55.  to  75.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  8  or  9  persons. 

2135.— MERINGUES. 

Ingredients. — 6  whit  -.  |  alb.  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  whites  of  eggs  in  a  bowl  or  basin  with  a  pinch  of 

salt .  and  whisk  them  stiffly.    Sieve  the  sugar,  stir  in  as  lightly  as  possible 

with  a  spoon,  folding  it  in,  ralhor  than  mixing  it  with,  the  whites  of 

ch  thick  board  or  a  baking-tin  with  foolscap  paper 

(slightly  oiled).      Tut  the  preparation  into  a  forcing-bag  attached  to  a 

plain  pipe,  and  press  on  to  the  paper  small  round  or  oval  portions  in 

about   i   inch  apart.     Dredge   them  well  with  castor  sup.v 
bake  in  a  cool  >  ;bout  2  hours,  when  they  should  have  acquired 

a  pale  fawn  colour,  and  be  perfectly  crisp.  Turn  them  over,  scoop 
out  any  portion  not  hardened,  and  let  them  remain  in  a  warm  place 
until  dry.  Use  as  requin 

Time. — Altogether,  about  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for 
i  dish. 

—When  a  forcing-bag  and  pipe  arc  not  available,  the  mixture  n 

°gg.  by  means  of  a  spoon  and  kmi<     in  the  manner 
ribr-.l  in  ;  uenellcs  of  Veal.        Meringue   shells   may 

be  kept  for  a  considerable  time  in  an  air-tight  tin  box. 


1034  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2136.— MERINGUES  A  LA  CHANTILLY. 

Ingredients. — 16  meringue  cases,  ^  to  -£  a  pint  of  cream,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  shells,  vanilla  sugar. 

Method. — Prepare  the  shells  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  sweeten  to  taste  with  vanilla  sugar,  place  2 
together,  enclosing  the  cream,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes,  after  the  shells  are  prepared.  Average  Cost, 
is.  6d.  to  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

2137.— MILAN  SOUFFLE.     (Fr.— Souffle  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  double  cream,  \  oz.  of  gelatine,  2  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  the  yolks  of  6  eggs,  the  juice  of  3  lemons,  the  finely-grated 
rinds  of  2  lemons. 

Method. — Whisk  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar  in  a  stewpan  over  the 
fire  until  creamy,  but  do  not  let  the  mixture  boil.  Stir  in  the  lemon-rind 
and  juice,  and  put  aside  till  cold.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  a  little  cold  water, 
then  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  dissolved,  and  strain.  Whip  the  cream 
stiffly,  add  the  gelatine,  and  stir  the  egg  mixture  lightly  in.  Turn 
into  a  silver  or  china  souffle  dish,  and  place  in  a  charged  ice  cabinet 
for  about  2  hours,  then  serve. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

2138.— NOUGAT  CORNETS  WITH  CREAM.      (Fr.- 
Cornets  de  Nougat  a  la  Creme.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  sweet  almonas,  \  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  the 
juice  of  \  a  lemon,  i  gill  of  cream,  vanilla  sugar,  pistachios. 

Method. — Blanch,  shred  and  bake  the  almonds  pale-brown.  Put 
the  sugar  and  strained  lemon-juice  into  a  sugar  boiler,  cook  until  golden- 
brown,  and  add  the  prepared  almonds.  Let  the  mixture  boil  up  again, 
then  pour  on  to  an  oiled  slab,  and  quickly  stamp  out  some  rounds 
about  2\  inches  in  diameter.  Wrap  each  one  quickly  round  an  oiled 
cornet  mould  to  keep  the  cornet  in  shape.  When  cold,  remove  the 
moulds,  fill  the  cornets  with  stiffly- whipped  sweetened  cream,  garnish 
with  chopped  pistachios,  and  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  from  i£  to  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons. 

2139.— ORANGE  COMPOTE.      (See  Compote  of  Fruit, 
No.  2099). 

2140.— ORANGE  CUSTARD. 

Ingredients. — 4  oranges,  4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  4  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream, 
candied  orange-peel. 


RECIPES  FOR   COLD  SWEETS  1035 

Method. — Place  the  sugar,  very  thinly-cut  rinds  and  juice  of  the 
oranges  in  a  basin,  and  add  i-J-  pints  of  boiling  water.  Let  these  in- 
gredients remain  covered  for  2  hours,  then  strain  into  a  stewpan,  and 
bring  nearly  to  boiling  point.  Add  the  beaten  eggs,  and  stir  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken.  When  cool,  pour  into  custard- 
glasses,  and  when  quite  cold,  pile  the  stiffly-whipped  cream  on  the  top, 
and  garnish  with  fine  strips  of  candied  orange-peel. 

Time. — From  3  to  3}  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  gd.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  August. 


2141.— ORANGE  FLOAT. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  cream,  sweetened  and  stiffly  whipped,  2  whites 
of  eggs,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  pulp,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Beat  the  whites  of  eggs  and  orange  pulp  together  until 
light,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Spread  the  whipped  cream  lightly  at  the 
bottom  of  a  glass  dish,  and  drop  spoonfuls  of  the  egg  mixture  on  the 
surface,  making  each  small  pile  as  rocky  as  possible. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2S.  3d.  to  2S.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  i  large  dish. 


2142.— ORANGE  MOULD. 

Ingredients. — 4  oranges,  f-  of  a  pint  of  milk  (about),  3  ozs.  of  sugar, 
•£  an  oz.  of  gelatine. 

Method. — Remove  the  orange-rind  as  thinly  as  possible,  and  cut  it 
into  fine  strips.  Strain  the  orange-juice,  mix  with  it  milk  to  increase 
the  quantity  to  exactly  i  pint,  and  add  the  gelatine  and  sugar.  Soak 
for  2  hours,  then  bring  gently  to  boiling  point,  and  simmer  for  2  or  3 
minutes.  Add  more  sugar  if  necessary,  and  pour  into  a  wetted  mould. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  Sd.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  from  November  to  August. 


2143.— ORANGE  SPONGE. 

Ingredients. — J  of  a  pint  of  orange  juice,  2  whites  of  eggs,  sugar  to 

\  an  oz.  of  gelat 

Method. — Soak  and  afterwards  dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  little  boiling 

,  add  the  orange- juice  and  sweeten  to  taste.      When  co'.d,  add 

the  whites  of  eggs,  whisk  until  light,  and  either  mould  or  serve  piled 

on  a  dish  (see  Lemon  Sponge,  No.  2130).    Raspberry  sponge  may  be 

by   substituting   the   strained  juice  of   fresh  raspberries  for  the 

orange  juice. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  oxi.  to  is.     Sufficient  for  i 
dish  or  large  mould. 


1036  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2144.— ORANGES  FILLED  WITH  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — Oranges,  jelly  of  2  or  3  colours. 

Method. — The  rind  of  each  orange  must  be  shaped  in  the  form  of  a 
cup  with  a  narrow  handle  across  the  top.  Remove  half  the  rind  of 
each  orange,  except  that  part  which  forms  the  handle,  by  means  of 
a  sharp  knife,  and  scoop  out  the  pulp.  When  an  ornamental  dish  is 
required,  cut  the  edge  of  both  cup  and  handle  into  points,  or  some  other 
design.  Fill  the  cups  with  jelly,  decorate  the  light  jelly  with  pis- 
tachio nuts  or  angelica,  and  the  dark  jelly  with  shredded  almonds,  or, 
if  preferred,  use  whipped  cream  as  a  garnish. 

Average  Cost. — 3d.  to  4d.  each.     Allow  i  to  each  person. 

2145.— PEACHES,  COMPOTE  OF.      (See  Compote  of 
Fruit,  No.  2099,  and  Stewed  Fruit,  No.  2160.) 

2146.— PORCUPINE  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 6  stale  sponge  cakes,  ij  pints  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
4  eggs,  i  oz.  of  almonds,  raspberry  jam,  vanilla  pod  or  bay-leaf,  or  other 
flavouring. 

Method. — Put  i  pint  of  milk,  the  flavouring  ingredient,  and  the  sugar 
into  a  jug,  add  the  eggs,  well-beaten,  and  place  the  jug  in  a  saucepan 
of  boiling  water.  Stir  the  contents  until  thick  enough  to  coat  the 
spoon,  then  transfer  the  jug  to  a  basin  of  cold  water,  and  stir  frequently 
until  the  custard  is  cold.  Meanwhile,  blanch  the  almonds  and  shred 
them  lengthwise.  Split  each  sponge  cake  in  two,  spread  on  a  thick 
layer  of  jam,  replace  the  halves,  and  arrange  them  compactly  in  a  glass 
dish.  Prick  them  well  with  a  fork,  pour  the  remainder  of  the  milk 
slowly  over  them,  and  stick  in  the  almonds.  Let  them  soak  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  pour  over  the  custard,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

2147.— PRUNE  MOULD. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  prunes,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine, 
i£  pints  of  water,  i  lemon,  cochineal. 

Method. — Split  the  prunes  and  remove  the  stones;  place  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  the  water,  sugar,  juice  and  thinly-cut  rind  of  the  lemon, 
and  simmer  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Melt  the  gelatine  in  i  tablespoonful 
of  water,  and  mix  with  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  add  a  few  drops  of 
cochineal,  and  turn  into  i  large  or  several  small  moulds  rinsed  with  cold 
water. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  90!.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  COLD  SWEETS  1037 

2148.— QUEEN  MAB'S  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  gelatine,  r  pint  of  milk, 
£  a  pint  of  double  cream,  6  yolks  of  eggs,  2  ozsv  of  glacS  cherries  halved, 
i  oz.  of  candu  peel  shredded,  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  milk  for  -J  aa  hour,  then  stir  it 
over  the  lire  until  dissolved,  and  add  the  sugar.  Cool  slightly,  put 
in  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  cream,  stir  by  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens, 
but  it  must  not  boil.  Let  it  cool,  add  the  cherries,  citron,  and  vanilla 
to  taste,  stir  until  on  the  point  of  setting,  then  turn  into  a  mould  previ- 
ously lined  with  jelly,  or  rinsed  with  cold 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  js.  jd.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

2149.— QUINCE  BLANCMANGE. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  ripe  quinces,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  }  of  an  Oz.  of 
gelatine,  %  of  a  pint  of  double  cream,  i  pint  ( ••: 

Method. — Peel  and  core  the  qui  :ner  them  in  the  water  until 

quite  soft  and  broken,  but  not  reduced  to  a  pulp,  then  strain  through 
a  jelly  bag.  Replace  the  liquor  in  the  pan,  add  the  sugar  and  the 
usly  soaked  in  a  little  cold  water,  and  stir  and  boil 
gently  until  the  ^  :i  cool,  add  the  cream, 

mix  well,  and  turn  into  a  mould  rinsed  with  cold 

Time.  About  i$  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
pers< 

2150.— RAISIN  CHEESE. 

Ingredlemts. —  i  Ib.  of  raisins,  |  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  a  good  pinch 
each  of  cinnamon  and  cloves,  angelica,  candied  citron  peel. 

Method. — Stone  the  raisins,  add   the  sugar,   cinnamon,  and  el- 
and stew  for  i  J  hours  in  a  jar  placed  in  a  saucepan  of  boil: 

cool,  pour  into  a  glass  dish,  garnish  with  strips  of  angelica  and 
citron,  and   >crvc  cold. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.  or  oxl     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

2151. -RICE  AND  CREAM.     (Fr.— Riz  a  la  cremc.) 

Ingredients.  -  3  ozs.  of  Carolina  i ;  ;  of  milk,  •*  a  pint  of  cream, 

'iiful  of  castor  sugar,  2  tablcspoonfuls  of  s) 

Method.  Dimmer  the  rice  in  the  milk  until  tender,  drain  well  on  a  sieve 
and  1,  t  u  cr.nl.  Whip  the  cream  stittlv.  ^tir  in  the  rice,  add  the  sherry 
and  sugar,  and  serve  in  custard-glasses  garnished  with  strips  of  ch- 

Time.— About  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 


1038  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2152.— RICE  BLANCMANGE.  (See  Ground  Rice  Blanc- 
mange, No.  2124,  and  Whole  Rice  Mould, 
No.  2173.) 

2I53._RICE  BORDER  WITH  PRUNES.  (Fr.— Bor- 
dure  de  Riz  aux  Prunes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  dozen  French  plums  or  prunes,  2  ozs.  of  Carolina  rice, 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  pistachios,  blanched  and  chopped,  i  pint 
of  milk,  £  a  gill  of  cream,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot 
marmalade  or  jam,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  i  glass  of  Maras- 
chino, glace  cherries,  angelica,  sugar. 

Method. — Simmer  the  rice  in  the  milk  until  tender,  add  the  lemon- 
rind  and  sugar,  let  it  remain  uncovered  for  a  short  time  for  some  of  the 
moisture  to  evaporate,  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  Maraschino. 
Press  into  a  well-buttered  border  mould,  place  the  mould  in  the  oven 
in  a  tin,  surround  with  boiling  water,  and  bake  for  about  £  an  hour. 
Dilute  the  apricot  marmalade  with  a  little  water,  sweeten  to  taste, 
strain  over  the  moulded  rice,  when  cold,  and  sprinkle  on  the  prepared 
pistachios.  Meanwhile  stew  the  plums  or  prunes  (see  p.  1040),  remove 
the  stones,  press  the  parts  together  again,  and  insert  a  short  strip  of 
angelica  in  each  one  to  represent  a  stalk.  Pile  them  in  the  centre  of  the 
rice,  and  garnish  with  halved  cherries  and  the  whipped  cream,  using  a 
forcing-bag  and  rose  pipe. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  2s.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

2154.— SAGO  SNOW.     (Fr.— Sagou  a  la  Neige.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  sago,  2  pints  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4 
eggs,  vanilla. 

Method. — Boil  up  the  milk,  sprinkle  in  the  sago,  simmer  and 
stir  until  the  mixture  becomes  clear.  Add  the  sugar,  let  the  mixture 
cool  slightly,  then  put  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs.  Stir  by  the  side  of 
the  fire  until  they  thicken,  cool  a  little,  add  the  vanilla,  and  pour  into 
a  deep  silver  or  jjlass  dish.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  i 
dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  drop  rough  pieces  into  the  rest  of  the 
milk,  previously  brought  to  boiling  point,  and  poach  for  about  i 
minute.  Drain,  and  serve  on  the  top  of  the  sago  custard. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes,  to  prepare.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Suffi- 
cient for  4  or  5  persons. 

2155.— SNOW  EGGS.      (Fr.— Oeufs  a  la  Neige.) 

Ingredients. — 5  eggs,  i  pint  of  milk,  sugar,  essence  of  vanilla. 

Method. — Boil  up  the  milk,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  flavour  with  vanilla. 


RECIPES   FOR  COLD  SWEETS  1039 


Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  put  i  tablespoonful  at  a  time 
into  the  boiling  milk,  and  poach  until  firm.  Turn  2  or  ;  times  during 
the  process,  and  as  each  portion  is  cooked,  drain  and  place  in  a  glass 
dish.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add  them  to  the  milk,  and  strain  into 
the  jug.  Stand  the  jug  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  the 
contents  until  they  thicken.  Let  the  custard  cool,  stirring  occasionally 
meanwhile,  then  pour  over  ana  round  the  snow  eggs,  and  serve. 

Time. — About    i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.  to    is.     Sufficient  for  6  or 
7  persons. 


2156.— SNOW  PUDDING.  (See  Lemon  Sponge,  No.  2130.) 

The  preparation  should  be  moulded  until  set,  and  served  with  boiled 
custard. 

2157.— SPONGE  CAKE  MOULD. 

Ingredients. — Stale  sponge  cakes,  macaroons  or  ratafias  i  pint  of  milk, 
i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  or  to  taste,  ^  of  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  brandy,  3  eggs,  glace  cherries,  vanilla  essence. 

Method.  Rinse  a  plain  mould  with  cold  water,  decorate  the  bottom 
with  halves  or  rings  of  cherries,  and  about  J  fill  it  with  broken  sponge 
and  macaroons.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  the  inilk,  when  nearly 
boiling  add  the  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  they  thicken. 
Add  the  sugar  and  vanilla  essence  to  taste,  and  pour  into  the  mould. 
Turn  out  when  cold,  and  serve  with  a  good  m-u.ird. 

Time.-  About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  i 
:nim  sized  mould. 


2158.— ST.  CLOUD  PUDDING.     (Fr.— Pouding  Froid 
a  la  St.  Cloud.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  strong  clear  coflee  (coffee  essence  may  be  used), 
4  eggs,  3  ozs.  ot  almonds,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  stale  sponge  cake 
(or  any  plain  cake),  3  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade  or  jam, 

i  a  gill  of  cream,  j  tablespoonfuls  of  Maraschino,  glace  cherries,  angelica. 

Method. — Blanch,  shred,  and  bake  the  almonds  pale  brown.     Coat  a 

plain  charlotte  mould  thickly  with  clarified  butter,  and  sprinkle  liberally 

with  the  prepared  almonds  when  cold.     Three-quarters  fill  the  mould 

with  pieces  of  cake,  interspersing  the  remainder  of  the  almonds.  Dissolve 

i-^.ir  in  t;  pour  over  the  well-beaten  eggs,  stirring  me.ui- 

whilr,  and  add   the  Maraschino  and   (  ream.     Strain  into   the  mould, 

with  a  buttei-  in  very  gently  for  about  2  hours. 

Turn    out    and   set  aside   till    cold.     Dilute  the  apricot  marmalade 


1040  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

with  a  little  water,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  when  cool  strain  over  the 
pudding.     Decorate  with  rings  of  cherries  and  strips  of  angelica. 

Time. — About  2 £  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons. 

2159.— STEWED  FIGS.     (Fr.— Compote  de  Figues.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  figs,  6  ozs.  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  i  pint  of 
water. 

Method. — Place  the  figs,  sugar  and  lemon- juice  in  a  jar,  boil  the  water, 
and  add  it  to  the  contents  of  the  jar.  Cover  closely,  stand  the  jar  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  or  in  a  slow  oven,  and  stew  gently  from  i£ 
to  i  £  hours.  Serve  with  a  good  custard  sauce. 

Time. — From  i£  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  yd.  Sufficient  for  3  or 
4  persons. 

2160.— STEWED  FRUIT.     (Fr.— Compote  de  Fruit.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  fruit,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Apples  and  pears  intended  for  stewing  should  be  peeled, 
quartered  and  cored.  Gooseberries  should  have  the  tops  and  tails  cut 
off;  rhubarb  is  usually  sliced,  and  if  at  all  old  the  stringy  outer  skin  is 
stripped  off.  Other  fruit,  such  as  cherries  and  plums,  should  have 
the  stalks  removed,  but  the  stones  may  be  taken  out  or  not,  as  preferred. 
Bring  the  water  and  sugar  to  the  boil,  add  the  fruit,  and  stew  very  gently 
until  tender.  Or,  place  the  fruit  and  sugar  in  a  jar,  stand  the  jar  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  until  tender. 

2161.— STEWED  PRUNES.  (Fr.— Compote  de  Prunes.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  prunes,  6  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  pint  of  water,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon- juice. 

Method. — Rinse  the  prunes  well  in  cold  water,  then  place  them  in  a 
basin,  add  the  pint  of  cold  water,  and  let  them  soak  for  at  least  6  hours. 
When  ready,  put  them  into  a  jar,  add  the  sugar  and  lemon-juice,  place 
the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  or  in  a  slow  oven,  and  stew  gently 
from  i£  to  2  hours. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  Suffi- 
cient for  3  or  4  persons. 

2162.— ST.  HONORE  TRIFLE. 

Ingredients. — A  round  Genoese  cake  i  inch  in  thickness,  £  of  a  pint  of 
sherry,  \  a  pint  of  stiffly-whipped  sweetened  cream,  2  or  3  whites  of 
eggs  stiffly-whisked  and  sweetened,  crushed  macaroons  or  ratafias, 
glacej  cherries,  angelica. 


RECIPES  FOR  COLD  SWEETS  1041 

Method. — Remove  the  Genoese  cake  from  the  tin  as  soon  as  it  is 
baked,  and  force  the  white  of  egg  round  the  edge  to  form  a  raised 
border.  Replace  in  a  cool  oven  until  the  meringue  hardens,  but  do 
not  allow  it  to  acquire  much  colour.  Place  a  good  layer  of  macaroons 
or  ratafias  on  the  top  of  the  cake,  pour  the  wine  over,  taking  care  not 
to  touch  the  border,  and  let  it  soak  for  at  least  i  hour.  Just  before 
serving,  pile  the  cream  on  the  top,  and  garnish  with  cherries  and  strips 
of  angelica. 

Time. — About  2  hours,  after  the  cake  is  made.  Average  Cost,  2S.  to 
2S.  3d.,  exclusive  of  the  cake.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

2163.— SUGAR   FOR   COMPOTES.      (See   To   Clarify 
Sugar  for  Syrup,  No.  2277.) 

2164.— SYLLABUB.     No.  i. 

Ingredients. — |  a  pint  of  sli-  '.ladeini  wine,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 

brandy,  I  of  a  pint  of  cream,  i  white  of  egg,  I  lemon,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  rind  of  the  lemon  as  thinly  as  possible,  put  it 
into  the  sherry,  and  let  it  soak  for  12  hours.  When  re.  n  and 

add  the  cream,  brandy,  lemon-juice,  and  sugar  to  taste.     Beat  or  v 

ixture  briskly,  and  as  the  froth  forms  skim  it  off,  and  place  it  at 
once  in  glasses  or  a  hair  sieve  with  a  basin  under  ')'•  *o  receive  the  drip- 
be  made  several  hours  before  required. 

Tim*. — Altogether,  18  hours.  Average  Cost,  zs.  3d.  Sufficient  for  10 
or  1 2  persons. 

2165.— SYLLABUB.     No.  2. 

Ingredients. — 10  macaroons,  i  pint  of  cream,  4  ozs.  of  castor  supar, 
the  juii-e  oi  i  lemon,  the  linely-Rr.ited  rind  of  i  a  lemon,  i  wincglassful 

:  i  v  <>i  Madeira,  a  pinch  of  ground  cinnamon,  essence  oi  ratafia. 
Method.  Mi'-Mr.  lenmn-juire  and  rind,  cinnamon  and  wine 

r  in  a  lar-e  basin,  add  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  ratafia,  stir  until 
the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  add  the  cream  and  whip  to  a  froth. 
Arrange  the  macaroons  compactly  on  the  bottom  <  •  dish,  and 

as  the  froth  is  formed  on  the  syllabub  skim  it  off  and  place  it  on  the 
s.     When  the  whole  of  the  preparation  has  been  reduced  to  a 
froth,  stand  the  dish  in  a  cold  place,  and  let  it  remain  for  at  least  12 
hours  be1  ng. 

Time.— Altogether,  about  13  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  33.  3d. 
Sufficient  i..r  7  or  8  persons. 


2166.— SYLLABUB.     No.  3. 

Ingredients.— £   a  pint  of  cream,  ^  of  a  pint  of  sherry,  half  that 


1042  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

quantity  of  brandy,  the  juice. of  %  a  iemon,  a  little  grated  nutme'g,  3 
ozs.  of  pounded  sugar,  whipped  cream. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients,  put  the  syllabub  into  glasses,  and 
over  the  top  of  them  heap  a  little  whipped-cream.  Solid  syllabub  is 
made  by  whisking  or  milling  the  mixture  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  putting  it 
in  the  glasses  without  the  whipped-cream  at  the  top. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.  to  35.  3d.  Sufficient  to 
fill  8  or  9  glasses. 

2167.— TIPSY  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — 8  sponge  cakes,  raspberry  jam,  i  pint  of  custard  No. 
2104,  £  of  a  pint  of  sherry. 

Method. — Split  the  cakes,  spread  on  a  good  layer  of  jam,  replace  the 
halves,  arrange  them  compactly  in  a  dish,  giving  them  as  far  as  possible 
the  appearance  of  one  large  cake.  Pour  over  the  sherry,  and  let  them 
soak  for  i  hour.  Make  the  custard  as  directed,  and,  when  cool,  pour 
it  over.  The  cake  may  be  garnished  with  cherries,  angelica,  chopped 
pistachois,  or  baked  almonds. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

2168.— TIPSY  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  3  eggs,  3  or  4 
tablespoonfuls  of  rum,  desiccated  cocoanut. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and  smooth, 
and  stir  in  the  flour  as  lightly  as  possible.  Coat  6  or  7  well-buttered 
dariol  moulds  thickly  with  castor  sugar,  fill  them  three-quarters  full 
with  the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  When  cooked, 
baste  them  with  rum  sweetened  to  taste,  sprinkle  lightly  with  cocoanut, 
and  serve  cold. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

2169.— TRIFLE,  No.   i. 

Ingredients. — 4  sponge  cakes,  6  macaroons,  12  ratafias,  2  ozs.  of 
almonds  (blanched  and  shredded),  the  grated  rind  of  £  a  lemcn,  £  a 
pint  of  custard  No.  2104,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  2  whites  of  eggs,  castor 
sugar,  raspberry  or  strawberry  jam,  £  of  a  pint  of  sherry,  glace  cherries, 
angelica. 

Method. — Make  the  custard  as  directed,  and  let  it  become  quite  cold. 
Cut  the  sponge  cakes  into  rather  thick  slices,  spread  half  of  them  with 
jam,  cover  with  the  remainder,  and  arrange  them  alternately  with  the 
macaroons  and  ratafias  in  a  glass  dish.  Pour  over  the  wine,  adding  a 


RECIPES  FOR  COLD  SWEETS  1043 

little  more  if  necessary  to  soak  them  thoroughly,  sprinkle  on  the  lemon- 
rind,  add  tin*  almonds,  and  cover  with  the  custard.  Mix  the  cream 
and  whites  of  e^<;s  together,  whip  stiffly,  sweeten  to  taste  with  castor 
sugar,  pile  lightly  on  the  top  of  the  custard,  and  garnish  with  halved 
cherries  and  strips  ot  an 

Time. — About   i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  33.  to  33.  6d.     Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  persons. 

2170.— TRIFLE,  No.  2. 

Ingredients. — 18  Savoy  biscuits,  12  ratafias,  raspberry  jam,  £  a  pint 
;ard  No.  .1104,  i  wine  glass  of  sherry,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  i 
oz.  of  blanched  and  shredded  almonds,  2  whites  of  eggs,  castor  sugar. 

Method.  M.ikc  the  custard  as  directed,  and  let  it  cool.  Spread  jam 
on  half  the  biscuits,  cover  with  the  others,  and  arrange  them  with  the 
rat  alias  compactly  on  a  glass  dish.  Mix  the  sherry  and  milk  together, 
pour  it  over  the  l>iscuits,  stick  in  the  shreds  of  almonds,  and  let  the 
ration  soak  for  i  hour.  Then  pour  over  the  custard,  pile  the 
stiith --u  etened  whites  of  eggs  on  the  top,  and  serve. 

Time. — About   2^   hours.      Average   Cost,    is.   oxL    to   js.      Sufficient 
persons. 

2171.— VANILLA  BLANC  MANGE. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
i  oz.  ot  leaf  oiks  of  eggs,  2  inches  of  vanilla  pod. 

Method.     I'.nn-    the   milk,  sugar  and  vanilla-pod  to  boiling  point, 
nmnor   iieiuly    until   sufficiently   flavoured.     Beat   the   yolks  of 
•lightly,  sti.un  on   to  them  the  boiling  milk,  stirring  vigorously 
meanwhile,  n  turn  to  the  stewpan,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until 
ixture  thu  kens.     Dissolve  the  K  i  a  ^  of  a  pint  of  water, 

add  it  to  the  custard,  and,  when  cool,  stir  in  the  stiflly-whippcd 

1  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  set. 
Time. — About  i  hour.      Average  Cost,   is.  6d.      Sufficient   for  6   or    7 


2172.—  WHIPPED-CREAM. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  double  cream,  i$  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  or  to 
: spoonful  of  sherry,    i   dessertspoonful  of  brandy  (the 
dy  may  be  omitted),  the  juice  and  finely-grated  rind  of 
".ion. 

Method.     Put  the  sherry,  I  *"gar,  lemon-juice  and  rind  into 

:  until  thesu-  >lved.     Add  the  cream,  and  whip, 

at   tnst   and  afterwards  more  quickly,   until   firm.      Serve  as 


1044  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

required.     Raisin  or  other  sweet  wine  may  replace  the  sherry  and 
brandy,  or  an  equal  quantity  of  raspberry  or  strawberry  syrup. 

Time. — About  15  minutes,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  7  persons. 

2173.— WHOLE  RICE  MOULD. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  df  Carolina  rice,  i  quart  of  milk,  3  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  the  thinly-cut  rind  of  £  a  lemon. 

Method. — Simmer  the  rice,  sugar,  lemon-rind  and  milk  together  until 
the  rice  is  perfectly  tender  and  the  milk  almost  absorbed.  Remove  the 
lemon-rind,  pour  the  preparation  into  a  wet  mould,  and,  when  firm, 
turn  out  and  serve  with  jam,  stewed  fruit  or  custard  sauce. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  i  large 
mould. 


Ices 

U  : 

2174.— ALMOND  CREAM  ICE.    (Fr.— Glace  a  la  Crime 
d'Amandes.) 

Ingredients. —  3  ozs.  of  sweet  almonds,  3  bitter  almonds,  £  a  pint  of 
custard  No.  i  or  2,  £  of  a  pint  of  whipped-cream,  £  pint  of  milk, 
a  few  drops  of  almond  essence,  i  teaspoonful  of  orange-flower  water. 

Method. — Blanch,  chop,  and  pound  the  almonds  smoothly,  adding 
the  orange-flower  water  to  prevent  them  oiling.  Warm  the  milk,  pour 
it  over  the  almonds,  let  it  remain  covered  while  the  custard  is  made  and 
gets  cold,  then  mix  the  whole  together.  Partially  freeze,  then  add  the 
cream,  almond-essence,  a  little  sugar  if  necessary,  and  complete  the 
freezing. 

Time. — From  3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Suflleient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 

2175.— APRICOT     ICED     EGGS.        (Fr.— CEufs    aux 
abricots  glaces.) 

Ingredients. — 12  apricots  (preserved  ones  will  serve),  6  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  i  pint  of  cream,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  2  or  3  drops  of  carmine. 

Method. — Pass  the  fruit  through  a  hair  sieve,  stir  in  the  sugar  and 
lemon-juice,  and  add  the  cream  stiffly  whipped.  Mix  in  a  little  car- 
mine, freeze,  press  lightly  into  egg  moulds,  and  pack  in  ice  until  re- 
quired. 

Time. — To  make  and  freeze,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  gd.  to 
33.  3d.  Allow  i  to  each  person. 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1045 

2176.— BANANA  CREAM  ICE.  (Fr.— Glace  a  la  Creme 
de  Bananes.) 

Ingredients.—  i£  pints  of  custard  No.  i,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  6  bananas, 
i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  tablespoonful  of  Cura£oa  or  brandy. 

Method. — Pass  the  bananas  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Prepare  the 
custard  as  directed,  and  whip  the  cream  stiffly.  When  the  custard 
is  sufficiently  cool,  add  the  banana  pulp,  lemon-juice  and  Curac.oa, 
stir  the  cream  in  lightly,  and  freeze  (see  p.  988). 

Time. — From  2  to  2$  hours.  Average  Cost,  js.  3d.  to  2s,  6d. 
Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

2177.— BISCUIT  ICE  CREAM.    (Fr.— Biscuits  Glaces.) 

Ingredients. — Ice  cream,  Savoy  buscuit. 

Method. — Line  a  plain  ice  mould  with  Savoy  biscuits,  put  in  the  frozen 
cream  ice,  cover,  and  pack  in  ice  until  required. 

Time.  Altogether,  5  or  6  hours.  Average  Cost,  Variable.  Allow  a 
pint  mould  for  4  or  5  persons. 

2178.— BROWN  BREAD  CREAM  ICE.    (Glace  au  Pain 
Bis.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  custard  No.  i  or  2,  3  ozs.  of  crumbled  brown 
.  £  a  gill  of  en  blespoonful  of  brandy. 

Method. —  Pass  the  brown  bread  through  a  sieve,  and  bake  in  a  cool 
oven  until  crisp  and  well  browned.  Partially  freeze  the  custard,  add 
the  brown  crumbs,  cream  and  brandy,  complete  the  freezing,  and  mould 
as  required. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

2179.— BURNT  ALMOND  CREAM.     (Fr.— Glace  aux 
Amandes  Brulees.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  custard  No.  i,  £  of  a  gill  of  cream,  i  table- 

nful  of  Kirsch,  2  ozs.  of  loat  monds. 

Method. — Blanch,  shred,  and  l>akr  the  almonds  until  brown,  prepare 
the  custard  according  to  the  recipe.  I'm  the  sugar  and  a  few  drops 
of  water  into  a  u*pan,  and  boil  until  it  ^  a  deep  ; 

brown  colour.     Now  add  the  cream,  boil  up  and  stir  into  the  en 

1C  TTu\tnrr  co.,1,  ;h"!i  add  the-  prepared  alnmnds  and  Kirsch,  and 

d  on  |>.   988). 

Time. — About    i    hour.     Average  Cost,  2s.   3d.     Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
•us. 


1046  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2180.— CARAMEL   CREAM   ICE.       (Fr.—  Glace   a  la 
Creme  de  Caramel.) 

Ingredients. —  \\  pints  of  custard  No.  i,  £  of  a  gill  of  cream,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  Benedictine,  2  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Prepare  the  custard  according  to  the  recipe.  Put  the 
sugar  into  a  small  stewpan  with  a  few  drops  of  water,  and  boil  until 
it  acquires  a  deep  golden-brown  colour.  Now  add  the  cream,  and  when 
boiling  stir  into  the  custard.  Let  the  mixture  cool,  add  the  Benedictine, 
and  freeze  as  directed  (see  p.  988). 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for  7  or 
8  persons. 

21  Si. — CUSTARD  (for  Cream  Ices)  No.  i. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  milk,  ^  a  pint  of  cream,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
6  yolks  of  eggs. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  nearly  to  boiling  point,  and  pour  it  over  the 
beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  stirring  meanwhile.  Return  to  the  stewpan,  and 
stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil,  or  the  eggs  may  curdle.  Stir  in  the  sugar,  strain,  and  when  cool 
add  the  cream. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
i  £  pints. 

2182.— CUSTARD  (for  Cream  Ices)  No.  2. 

Ingredients. — i^  pints  of  milk,  i  gill  of  cream,  8  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i 
heaped  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour,  4  eggs. 

Method.— Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the 
remainder  with  the  sugar,  add  the  blended  cornflour  and  milk,  and 
simmer  for  3  or  4  minutes.  Cool  slightly,  then  add  the  beaten  yolks 
of  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens. 
Strain  into  a  basin;  when  cool  add  the  cream,  the  whites  of  eggs  stiflly- 
whisked,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for 
if  pints. 

2183.— CUSTARD  (for  Cream  Ices)  No.  3. 

Ingredients. — i^  pints  of  milk,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  corn- 
flour, saffron-yellow  colouring. 

Method.— -Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  the 
remainder  with  the  sugar,  add  the  blended  cornflour  and  milk,  and 
simmer  gently  for  3  or  4  minutes.  Strain,  add  sufficient  colouring 
matter  to  give  the  mixture  the  appearance  of  rich  custard,  and  use  as 
required. 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1047 

Time. — From   20  to   25   minutes.     Average  Cost.  4ld.      Sufficient  for 

i  I    pints. 

2184. -CHERRY    CREAM    ICE.        (Fr.—  Glace    a   la 
creme  de  Cerises.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  custard  No.  2,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ripe  cherries,  2  ozs. 
of  castor  sugar,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  i  tablespoonful  of  Kirschwasser 
or  other  liqueur,  carmine. 

Method. — Stone  the  fruit,  crack  the  stones,  take  out  the  kernels, 
place  both  cherries  and  kernels  in  a  basin,  add  the  sugar,  lemon-juice, 
Kirschwasser,  cover,  and  let  the  preparation  stand  for  £  an  hour.  Then 
pour  all  into  a  copper  stewpan,  add  |  a  pint  of  water,  cook  until  the 
cherries  are  tender,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Add  the  prepared 
custard  and  a  few  drops  of  carmine,  and  freeze  as  directed  (see  p.  988). 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  js.  Sufficient  for 
/  or  8  persons. 

2185.— CHOCOLATE  BOMBE,  WITH  FRUIT. 

(Fr. — Bombe  au  Chocolat  a  la  Printaniere.) 

a  bomb  of  chocolate  cream  ice,  arid  fill  the  interior  with 
cream  sweetened,  slightly  stiffened  with  gelatine,  and  mixed  with  halved 
or  quartered  strawberries, 

2186.— CHOCOLATE   CREAM   ICE.       (Fr.— Glace  au 
Chocolat.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  chocolate,  i  pint  of  custard  No.  i  or  2,  i  gill  of 
milk.  \  a  gill  of  cream,  sugar. 

Method.  -Prepare  the  custard  as  directed.  Dissolve  the  chocolate 
in  the  milk,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  strain  it  into  the  custard.  Let  the 
mixture  cool,  then  add  the  stiffly-whipped  cream,  and  freeze  (see  p.  988). 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  5d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
persons. 

2187.— CIDER  ICE.     (Fr. -Glace  au  Cidre.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  cider,  i  pint  of   syrup  No.  2231,  £  a  pint  of  un- 

1  appk-  pulj>.  the  juice  of  3  lemons. 

Method.     Mix  all   tin-  ingredients  together,  boil  up,  pass  thn>i 

•Id,  freeze  as  directed  (see  No.  988).     Tl 

or  junk  by  adding  a  few  drops  of  < 

1 1  IK'. 

Time.     About  2   hours.     Average  Cost,    is.    31!.     Sufficient    for   6   or 

7  persons. 


1048  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

2188.— CLARIFIED  SUGAR  FOR  WATER  ICE.     (See 
Syrup  for  Water  Ices,  No.  2231.) 

2189.— COCOA  ICED.        (Fr.— Cacao  Frappe.)     (See 
Coffee  Iced,  No.  2236.) 

2190.— COFFEE  CREAM  ICE.     (Fr.— Glace  Creme  au 
Cafe.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  ozs.  of  freshly  roasted  and  ground  coffee,  3  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  i  pint  of  custard  No.  i  or  2,  £  a  gill  of  cream,  i  glass  of  Kirsch. 

Method. — Pour  boiling  water  over  the  coffee,  infuse  for  about  \  an 
hour,  then  strain,  add  the  sugar,  and  let  it  cool.  Make  the  custard 
according  to  the  recipe,  stir  in  the  coffee;  when  cool,  add  the  Kirsch 
and  whipped  cream,  and  freeze  (see  p.  988). 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  persons. 

2191.— COFFEE  CREAM  ICE.     (Fr.— Creme  au  Cafe 
Glace.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  very  strong  clear  coffee,  i£  pints  of  cream, 
4  ozs.  of  sugar. 

Method. — Sweeten  the  coffee  with  the  sugar,  partially  freeze  it,  then 
stir  in  the  slightly-whipped  cream,  and  continue  the  freezing. 

Time. — About  30  minutes  with  cold  coffee.  Average  Cost,  2s. 
Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

2192.— COFFEE  SAUCE  FOR  CREAM  ICE. 

Ingredients.— 6  tablespoonfuls  of  freshly-ground  coffee,  £-  of  a  pint  of 
boiling  water,  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  5  yolks  of  eggs,  2  sheets  of  gelatine. 

Method. — Pour  the  boiling  water  over  the  coffee,  let  it  stand  until 
clear,  then  strain  it  into  a  saucepan.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar 
together,  and  dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  very  little  cold  water.  Add 
both  to  the  coffee,  stir  and  cook  slowly  until  the  preparation  has  the 
consistency  of  thick  cream,  then  strain,  and  serve  separately  when  quite 
cold. 

Time. — About  $  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  i  pint  of  sauce. 

2193.— CREAM   ICE   (en   Surprise).     Fr.— Glace  pan- 
achee  en  Surprise.) 

Moulded  cream  ice,  masked  with  meringue,  and  quickly  baked. 


ICES. 


^ 


i.     Ice  Pudding.       2.      1  >«»«  rt  Ices. 


69 


ICES. 


i.  Neapolitan  Ices.         2.  Fruit  Sorbets.         3.  Nesselrode  Pudding. 


70 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1049 

2194.— CREAM  ICE  FROM  FRESH  FRUIT. 

(Fr.— Creme  de  Fruits  Glaces). 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  |  a  pint  of  cream,  £  a  pint  of  fruit  pulp, 
sugar  to  taste  (10  to  1 2  ozs.),  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  the  white  of  i  egg. 

Method.  -Put  the  milk  and  sugar  into  a  stewpan,  bring  to  the  boil 

and  cool.     Pass  the  fruit  through  a  fine  ha:  .idd  the  lemon-juice 

and  milk  to  the  pulp  thus  formed,  and  stir  in  lightly  the  stittly-whipped 

.     When  the  mixture  is  partially  frozen,  add  the  well -whisked 

white  of  egg,  and  continue  the  freezing. 

Time.   -From  30  to  35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  toss.     Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons. 

— In  a  recipe  of  this  description  the  exact  amount  of  sugar  cannot  be 
:h  the  fruit  ;  but  it  must  be  addi-.  <.retion,  for 

nixture  be  made  too  sweet,  freezing  is  extremely  difficult,  while,  on  the 
:  hand,  if  not  sufficiently  sweetened  the  ice  becomes  too  solid. 

2195.— CREAM  ICES  PREPARED  FROM  PRESERVED 
FRUIT  OR  JAM. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  i  gill  of  cream,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  sugar  to 
6  ozs.  of  preserved  fruit  pulp  or  jam,  such  as  strawberry,  rasp- 

eengage,  apricot,  peach,  pineapple,  el 
Method. — Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the  milk  when  nearly  boiling, 

in  the  stewpan,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  th< 

but  the  mixture  must  not  boil.     Strain,  add  the  sieved  jam  or  fruit 

pulp,  sweet  rn  to  taste  and  brighten  the  colour  by  adding  a  few  drops 

,  saffron,  or  spinach  greening,  according  to  the  fruit  used. 

Let   the  preparation  cool,  then  add   the  stiffly- whipped  cream,  and 

Time.     About  r.      Average  Cost,  is.  to  Sufficient  for 

persons. 

2196.— FIG  CREAM  ICE.   (Fr.— Glace  a  la  Creme  de 
Figues.) 

Ingredients. —  i  breakfastctrpfa]  <>f  finely -chopped  dried  figs,  4  ozs,  of 
castor  sugar,   i  -l  best   isinglass,    2  tablespoonfuls  of 

>ur.  vanilla  essence,  i  quart  of  milk,  i   pint  of  cream,  3  eggs. 
Method.  -Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly  \sith  a  little  milk,  boil  the  re- 
mainder, add  the  cornflour,  and  stir  until  boiling.     Beat  the  eggs  and 
them  into  the  mi!  nflour,  add  the  isinglass 

in  a  little  odd  \vat.  r.  and  stir  it  until  dissolved. 
1  the  cream  and  a  little  vanilla  essence,  freeze  slightly, 

md  complete  the  freezing. 

Time.     Alx>ut  j  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  Od.  to  35.     Sufficient  for  12 
or  14  persons. 


HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2197.— FROZEN  PUDDING.  (See  Iced  Queen's  Pudding, 
No.  2241,  and  Nesselrode  Pudding,  No.  2247.) 

2198.— FRUIT   CREAM   ICE.     (Fr.— Fruits    Glaces   a 
la  Creme.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  fresh  fruit  pulp  (strawberry,  raspberry, 
currant,  or  any  other  fruit  preferred),  10  to  12  ozs.  of  sugar,  £  a  pint  of 
cream,  I  pint  of  milk,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  the  stiffly -whipped  white 
of  i  egg. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk,  add  the  sugar,  and  put  aside  until  nearly 
cold.  Obtain  the  pulp  by  passing  the  fruit  through  a  fine  hair  sieve, 
add  the  lemon-juice,  milk,  and  the  cream  stiffly  whipped.  Partially 
freeze  the  preparation  before  adding  the  white  of  egg.  The  amount  of 
sugar  required  depends  upon  the  fruit  used. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  Sufficient  for  10  or 
12  persons. 

2199.— GINGER  ICE  CREAM.    (Fr.— Glace  a  la  Creme 
de  Gingembre.) 

Ingredients. — 1|  pints  of  custard  No.  i,  2  or  3,  3  ozs.  of  preserved 
ginger,  i  teaspoonful  of  ginger  syrup. 

Method. — Make  the  custard  according  to  the  recipe  selected.  Cut 
the  ginger  into  small  dice,  stir  it  with  the  syrup  into  the  custard  and 
freeze  as  directed  on  p.  988. 

Time. — From  30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons. 

2200.— ICED  FRUIT.     (Fr.— Fruits  Glaces.) 

Fruit  of  nearly  every  description  may  be  iced  by  first  dipping  it  in 
beaten  white  of  egg,  and  afterwards  in  crushed  loaf  sugar,  the  process 
being  repeated  until  a  sufficiently  thick  coating  is  obtained.  Pine- 
apples should  be  sliced  ;  pears,  peaches  and  plums  should  be  halved 
after  removing  the  skins  ;  cherries,  strawberries  and  similar  fruit  are 
iced  with  the  stems  on  ;  and  from  oranges  and  lemons  every  particle 
of  pith  is  removed  before  dividing  the  former  into  sections  and  the 
latter  into  slices  (see  Oranges,  Iced). 

2201.— ICE   PUDDING.       (See  Iced   Queen's   Pudding 
No.  2241,  and  Nesselrode  Pudding.  No.  2247.) 

2202. — ICED    SOUFFLE.        (See    Iced    Strawberry    or 
Raspberry  Souffle.) 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1051 

2203.— JAPANESE  PLOMBIERE.     (Fr.— Glace  Plom- 
biere  a  la  Japonaise.) 

Ingredients. — 8  yolks  of  eggs,  i  oz.  of  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  ground  almonds, 
|  a  pint  of  cream,  i£  pints  of  milk,  i  glass  of  Kirsch,  apricot  marmalade, 
4  ozs.  of  pounded  macaroons,  salt. 

Method. — Boil  up  the  milk,  pour  it  over  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  a  little 
salt  and  the  sugar,  and  replace  in  the  saucepan.  Cook  gently  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  tammy  or  pass  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and  add  2  ozs. 
of  marmalade,  the  almonds  and  Kirsch.  When  cold,  add  the  maca- 
roons and  the  cream  stiffly  whipped,  and  freeze.  Mould  with  a  little 
apricot  marmalade  in  the  centre,  and  serve  garnished  with  ratafias 
or  ice  wafers. 

Time.— About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  8  or  10 
>ns. 


2204.— LEMON  CREAM  ICE.    (Fr.- -Glace  a  la  Creme 
de  Citron.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  pint  of  custard  No.  i,  2  or  3,  4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  2 

OS. 

Method.  —  Prepare  the  custard  according   to  directions  given.     Rub 

Mips  of  sugar  on  tli  t  the  lemons  until  all  the  outer  > 

part   is  removed,  and  dissolve  it  in   i    tablespoonful  of  warm  \ 
Add  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  and  when  cool  stir  into  the  neces- 

sary, add  a  few  drops  of  liquid  saffron  colouring,  and  freeze  as  dii 
on  p.  988. 

Time. — About   40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  pd.   to   is.  6d.     Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  per^ 

2205.— MAPLE  PARFAIT.    (Fr.— Parfait  au  Sirop.) 

Ingredients. —  i  $  gii'  :  quart  of  cream,  4  ozs.  of  maple 

-  of  eggs,  i  inch  of  vanilla  pod. 

Method.  ip  and  \\imlla  pod  in  a  copper  pan  until  it 

:  Kilometer,  then  remove  the  vanilla,  and  pour 

ruj)  over  the  yolks  of  eggs.  k  the 

i  in  an  egg-bowl  over  boiling  water  until  it  has  the  consistency 

of   thick   c  :ntil  cold.     Add    the  stiltly- 

ugar,  stir  for  some  minutes  over  tl 
mould  lined  with  paper.     Seen; 

•  3  hours. 

Time.     l-Ymn  i    t  >  j  boon,      Average  Cost,  45.   to  43  6d.      Sufttcient 
y  or  10  persons. 


1052  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2206.— ORANGE  ICE  CREAM.  (Fr.—  Glace  a  la  Creme 
d'Orange.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  custard  No.  i,  2  or  3,  3  oranges,  2  ozs.  of 
loaf  sugar,  saffron-yellow  colouring,  carmine. 

Method. — Prepare  the  custard  according  to  directions  given.  Remove 
the  outer  yellow  part  of  2  oranges  by  rubbing  them  with  the  lumps  of 
sugar,  which  afterwards  must  be  dissolved  in  i  tablespoonful  of  warm 
water.  Mix  with  the  strained  juice  of  the  oranges;  when  cool  stir  into 
the  custard,  and  add  the  carmine  and  saffron-yellow,  until  the  desired 
colour  is  obtained.  Freeze  as  directed  on  p.  988. 

Time. — From  40  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons. 

2207.— PINEAPPLE  CREAM  ICE.       (Fr.—  Glace  a  la 
Creme  d' Ananas.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  custard  No.  i  or  2,  \  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped 
preserved  pineapple,  £  a  gill  of  pineapple  syrup,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice. 

Method. — Pass  the  pineapple  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  with  it  the 
syrup  and  lemon-juice.  Make  the  custard  as  directed,  and  when  cool 
stir  in  the  pineapple  preparation,  and  freeze  as  directed  on  p.  988. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  2s.  3d., 
according  to  the  custard  selected.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

2208.— PINEAPPLE  PLOMBIERE.   (Fr.— Glace  Plom- 
biere  d7 Ananas.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  cream,  6  yolks  of  eggs,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  3 
tablespoonfuls  of  pineapple  dice,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  pineapple  syrup, 
vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Boil  up  i£  pints  of  the  cream,  pour  it  over  the  yolks  of 
eggs,  previously  well-beaten,  add  the  sugar  and  pineapple  syrup,  and 
replace  the  mixture  in  the  saucepan.  Stir  and  cook  gently  by  the  side 
of  the  fife  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain,  and,  when  cold,  freeze.  When 
the  mixture  is  half  frozen,  add  the  pineapple  dice,  a  little  vanilla 
essence,  and  the  cream  stiffly  whipped. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  45.  to  45.  9d.  Sufficient  for 
10  or  12  persons. 

2209.— PISTACHIO  CREAM  ICE.    (Fr.— Glace  creme 
aux  Pistaches.) 

Ingredients. — 1\  pints  of  custard  No.  i,  2  or  3,  4  ozs.  of  pistachio  nuts 
blanched  and  pounded,  i  tablespoonful  of  noyeau,  orange-flower  water, 
spinach-greening. 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1053 

Method. — While  pounding  the  pistachio  nuts  add  gradually  a  little 
orange-flower  water.  As  soon  as  the  custard  is  cold,  add  the  noyeau 
and  a  little  spinach  extract,  and  when  partially  frozen,  stir  in  the 
pistachio  nuts. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  7 
or  8  persons, 

2210.— RASPBERRY  ICE  CREAM.     (Fr.— Glace  a  la 
Creme  de  Framboises.) 

Ingredients. —  I  Ib.  of  raspberries,  i   pint   of  custard   No.    i ,  j  • 
6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon -juice,  carmine. 

Method. — Make  the  custard  as  directed.     Pass  the  raspberries  through 
a  fine  hair  sieve,  add  the  sugar  and  lemon- juice,  and  mix  with  the 
red  custard,  adding  at  the  same  time  as  much  carmine  as  is  needed 
to  produce  a  bright  red  colour.     Freeze  as  directed  on  p.  988. 

Time. — About    i   hour.     Average  Cost,   iod.   to   is.,  exclusive  of  the 
-.1.     Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

221 1. —STRAWBERRY  ICE  CREAM.     (Fr.— Glace  a 
la  Creme  de  Praises.) 

Ingredients. —  i  IK  of  strawberries,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  ^  of  a  pint  of 
milk,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  10  ors.  of  castor  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 

carmine. 
Method. — Bring  the  milk  and  cream  to  near  boiling  point,  add  the 

ks  of  eggs,  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  th< 
then  put  in  the  sugar,  and  when  dissolved,  strain  and  let  the  preparation 

Pass  the  rics  through  a  fine  sieve,  mix  with  the  cu 

add  the  lemon-juice  and  carmine  gradually  until  a  deep  pink  colour  is 

mod.     Freeze  as  direc; 
Time.     About    i    hour.     Ayerage  Cott,  2s.  to  2s.  3d.     Sufficient  for  7 


2212.     STRAWBERRY    ICE    CREAM.  (Another 

method.) 

Ingredients.—  i  IK  ot  str.iwlHTrirs,  i  quart  of  milk,  ^  a  gill  of  cream, 
-istor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  cornflour,  4  eggs,  the  juice  of  2  lemons, 
inc. 

Method.     Mix   the  cornflour  with  a  little  milk,  boil   the  remainder 

with  the  si  tin-  M.  nded  cornflour  and  milk,  simmer  for  2  or  3 

minut  oiks  of  the  eggs,  add  thmi 

<  wpan,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the 

previously  reduced 
by  being  passed  through  a  fine  sieve,  the  lemon  juice,  a  few 


1054        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

drops  of  carmine,  and  when  cold,  the  cream  and  well-whisked  whites  of 
eggs.     Freeze  as  directed. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons. 

2213.— TEA    CREAM    ICE.       (Fr.— The    Glace    a    la 
Creme.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  strong  tea,  i  pint  of  custard  No.  2,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  thick  cream,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Strain  the  tea,  add  the  sugar,  and  let  it  cool.  Prepare  the 
custard  according  to  the  recipe,  add  the  tea;  when  cool,  stir  in  the 
cream,  and  freeze  (see  p.  988). 

Time. — 30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons. 


2214.— TEA   ICE   CREAM,    AMERICAN.       (Fr.—  The 
Glace  a  I'Americaine.) 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  dry  tea,  i  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of 
cream,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4  whole  eggs,  i  inch  of  vanilla  pod. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  and  vanilla  pod  to  boiling  point,  infuse  for 
a  few  minutes,  then  pour  it  over  the  tea,  allow  it  to  remain  closely 
covered  for  5  minutes,  and  strain.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  castor 
sugar,  and  continue  the  beating  until  perfectly  smooth,  then  stir  in  the 
prepared  tea.  Put  this  mixture  into  a  stewpan,  and  stir  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  until  it  thickens.  Strain  into  a  basin;  when  cool,  add  the 
stiffly-whipped  cream  and  freeze  (see  p.  988). 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  persons. 

2215.— TUTTI-FRUTTI,  ICED  (MIXED  FRUIT  ICE). 

(Fr.— Tutti-Frutti  Glaces.) 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  pistachios,  blanched  and  shredded,  i  oz.  of 
glace  cherries,  i  oz.  of  glace  apricots,  £  an  oz.  of  mixed  candied  peel. 
all  cut  into  small  dice,  £  a  pint  of  cream  stiffly  whipped,  £  a  gill  of 
Maraschino,  2  whites  of  eggs  stiffly  whipped,  vanilla  essence.  8  ozs. 
of  sugar,  5  yolks  of  eggs,  i  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk,  add  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar,  stir  and  cook 
very  gently  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain  and,  when  cold,  add  vanilla 
essence  to  taste.  Partially  freeze,  add  the  whites  of  eggs,  cream,  nuts 
and  fruit,  and,  when  the  freezing  process  is  nearly  completed,  put  in  the 
Maraschino. 

Time.— From  3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  2s.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  8  or  9  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1055 

2216.— VANILLA    ICE    CREAM.        (Fr.—  Glace    a    la 
Creme  de  Vanille.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  cream,  *  a  pint  of  milk,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
6  vol!  s  £  a  pod  of  vanilla. 

Method.   -Whisk  the  yolk-;  of  eggs  and  sugar  well  together,  boil  the 

cream  and  milk  with  tho  vanilla  for  a  few  minutes,  stir  into  the  eggs, 

ad  replace  the  whole  in  the  stewpan.     Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 

until  the  mixture  thickens,  but  it  must  on  no  account  be  allowed   to 

boil.       Tammy  or  pass  through  a  fine  strainer,  if  necessary,  add  a  few 

j  of  vanilla  essence,  and  when  cool,  freeze  as  directed  on  p.  988. 
Time.— About   |  an   hour.     Average   Cost,  2s.  6d.     Sufficient  lor  7  or 
ons. 

2217.— VANILLA    ICE    CREAM.        (Fr.— Glace    a    la 
Creme  de  Vanille.) 

Ingredients. — 1\  pints  of  milk,  i  gill  of  cream,  8  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
i  lu-aped  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour,  4  eggs,  the  juice  of  $  a  lemon, 

-ixxmful  of  vanilla  es^. 

Method.     Mix   the  cornflour  smoothly  with  a  little   milk,   boil   the 

remainder  with  sugar,  add  the  blended  cornflour,  simmer  for  2  minutes, 

>ol  slightly.     Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add  them  to  the  contents 

.iiul  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thi< 
and   when  cool,  add  the  lemon-juio  essence,  crean 

kcd  whiles  of  eggs.     Freeze  as  directed. 

Time.— From  30  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  Sufficient  for  7 

I  arsons. 

2218.     VANILLA  ICE   CREAM.      (Economical.) 

Ingredients. —  i  \  pints  of  milk,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  corn- 
flour, \  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence,  saffron  or  liquid  yellow  colour- 
Method.     Mix   the  cornflour  smoothly   with  a  little  milk,  boil   the 
with  the  sugar,  add  the  blended  cornflour  and  milk,  and 
simmer   gt-ntlv    tor   j    minutes.     Strain;  when  cool,  add   the   vanilla 
>1  sufficient  colouring  matter  to  give  the  mixture  the  appeal - 
>f  rich  custard.     Freeze  as  directed. 
Time.— About  $  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7 

2219.— VANILLA   PLOMBIERE.       (/>.— Glace   Plom- 
biere  a  la  Vanille.) 

iients.     i }  pints  of  vanilla  2216,  $  a  pint 

iblespoonfuls  of  coarsely -chopped  almonds. 


1056        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Partially  freeze  the  vanilla  ice  cream,  add  the  whipped- 
cream  and  almonds,  and  complete  the  freezing. 

Time. — From  3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  10  or  12  persons. 

2220.— WALNUT  CREAM  ICE.   (See  Pistachio  Cream 
Ice,  No.  2209.) 

Omit  the  spinach  greening,  and,  if  preferred,  substitute  vanilla 
essence  for  the  noyeau. 


Water  Ices 

2221.— APPLE  WATER  ICE.     (Fr.— Glace  a  1'eau  de 
Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  apple  pulp,  i  pint  of  syrup  No.  2232,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Stew  the  apples  in  a  jar.  pass  them  through  a  hair  sieve, 
and  stir  the  pulp  into  the  hot  syrup.  When  cold,  add  the  lemon-juice, 
and  freeze.  A  few  drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal  improve  the  colour. 

Time. — From  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  pd.  Sufficient  for  10  or  12 
persons. 

2222.— CHERRY  WATER  ICE.  (Fr.— Glace  a  1'eau  de 
Cerises.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  good  cooking  cherries,  i£  pints  of  syrup,  i 
tablespoonful  of  lemon- juice,  i  tablespoonful  of  Kirsch,  carmine  or 
cochineal. 

Method. — Stone  the  cherries,  and  from  about  a  quarter  of  the  stones 
remove  the  kernels  and  pound  them  finely.  Pour  the  syrup  when  boil- 
ing over  the  cherries  and  kernels,  let  it  stand  closely  covered  until 
cold,  then  add  the  Kirsch,  lemon-juice,  and  a  few  drops  of  carmine. 
Freeze  as  directed  on  p.  988. 

Time.— Altogether,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  8  or  9  persons. 

2223.— GINGER  WATER  ICE.     (Fr.— Glace  de  Gin- 
gembre.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  preserved  ginger,  a  little  of  the  syrup  in  which 
it  is  preserved,  i  pint  of  syrup  No.  2231,  the  stiffly-whipped  white  of 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1057 

i  egg,  the  strained  juice  of  2  lemons  and  i  orange,  the  rind  of  i  orange, 
3  or  4  lumps  of  sugar. 

Method. — Pound  the  ginger  finely,  adding  gradually  a  little  of  its 
syrup,  and  press  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Rub  the  sugar  on 
the  orange-rind,  add  the  sugar  to  the  ginger,  together  with  the  syrup, 
lemon  and  orange  juices,  and  3  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water.  Boil 
up,  strain,  and,  when  cold,  freeze  as  directed  (see  p.  c.88),  adding  the 
white  of  egg  when  the  mixture  is  about  hall  frozen. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  about  is.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7 

'IIS. 

2224.— GRAPE  WATER  ICE.     (Fr.— Glace  a  1'eau  de 
Grappes.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  sweetwater  grapes,  the  thin  rind  of  2  lemons, 
the  juice  of  4  lemons,  i£  pints  of  syrup,  i  wineglassful  of  sherry  or 

i   tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water. 

Method. — Crush  the  grapes  on  a  hair  sieve,  and  press  the  pulp  through 

with  a   \\ooden  spoon,  add  the  syrup  boiling,  lemon-rind  and  juice. 

t main  until  cold,  then  strain,  add   the  wine,  and  orange-flower 

1  freeze. 

Time.— About  i   hour.     Average  Cost,  js.    to    2s.    3d.     Sufficient    for 
i  j  persons. 

2225. -LEMON  WATER  ICE.    (Fr.— Glace  au  Citron.) 

Ingredients. — i  £  pint*  oi  syrup  NO.  2232,  6  lemons,  2  oranges. 

Method. — Remove  the  peel  from  the  lemons  and  i  orange  as  thinly 

as  possible,  and  place  it  in  a  lv.-in.     Make  the  syrup  as  directed, 

pour  it  boiling  hot  over  the  rinds,  cover,  and  let  it  remain  thus  until 

cool,  then  add  the  juice  of  the  lemons  and  orange.     Strain  or  tammy, 

rected  (see  p.  988). 

Time.— From  i|  to  i|  hours.  Avenge  Cost,  is.  4<1.  Sufficient  for  7 
or  8  persons. 

2226.— MELON  WATER  ICE.   (Fr.— Glace  au  Melon.) 

Ingredients.— i  medium-sized  ripe  melon,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  the  juice  of 
the  juice  ol  j  lemons,  i  \vi:  Maraschino,  i  quart 

Method.  -Peel  and  slice  the  melon,  simmer  for  10  minutes  with  the 
.IT,  and  rub  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.     When  cool,  add 
d  orange  and  lemon-juice,  the  Maraschino,  and,  if  necessary, 
a  little  more  sugar.  :<  p.  ggg. 

Time.     1  i  «(m    50    to    60   minutes.     Average  Cost,  js.       Sufficient   for 

M   14 


1058  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2227.— PEACH  SHERBET.     (Fr.— Sorbet  aux  Peches.) 

Ingredients. — 6  peaches,  the  juice  of  4  lemons,  sugar  to  taste,  3  quarts 
of  water. 

Method. — Skin  and  stone  the  fruit,  remove  the  kernels  from  the  stones, 
and  chop  them  finely.  Cut  the  fruit  into  small  pieces,  add  the  water, 
kernels,  lemon-juice  and  sugar  to  taste.  Let  it  remain  on  ice  for  5  or 
6  hours,  and  strain  before  using. 

Time. — From  5^  to  6|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  3 
quarts. 

2228.— PINEAPPLE  WATER  ICE.  (Fr.— Glace  a  1'eau 
<T  Ananas.) 

Ingredients. —  i  preserved  pineapple,  i  pint  of  syrup  No.  2231  or 
2232,  the  juice  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Make  the  syrup  as  directed.  Pound  the  pineapple  or  chop 
it  finely,  and  pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve.  Mix  with  it  the  syrup,  add 
the  lemon-juice,  let  the  mixture  become  sufficiently  cold,  and  freeze 
(see  p.  988). 

Time. — From  50  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons. 

2229.— RASPBERRY  OR  STRAWBERRY  WATER  ICE. 
(Fr. — Glace  a  1'eau  de  Praises  ou  Fram- 
boises.) 

Ingredients. —  i-J-  Ibs.  of  ripe  strawberries  or  raspberries,  i£  pints  of 
syrup  No.  i,  the  juice  of  2  lemons. 

Method. — Prepare  the  syrup  as  directed.  Rub  the  fruit  through  a 
fine  sieve,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  if  necessary  deepen  the  colour  with 
a  few  drops  of  carmine.  Freeze  as  directed  on  p.  988. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  25.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons. 

2230.— RED  CURRANT  WATER  ICE.  (Fr.— Glace  a 
1'eau  de  Groseilles.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  red  currants,  £  a  Ib.  of  raspberries,  i  quart  of 
syrup  No.  i,  the  juice  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Pick  the  fruit  and  rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve.  Prepare 
the  syrup  according  to  the  recipe,  pour  it  over  the  fruit  pulp,  add  the 
strained  lemon-juice,  and  when  cold  freeze  (see  p.  988). 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons. 


I 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1059 

223I._SYRUP  FOR  WATER  ICES,  No.  i. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  and  water  into  a  copper  sugar-boiler  or  stew- 
pan  ;  when  dissolved  place  over  a  clear  fire,  and  boil  until  a  syrup  is 
formed,  taking  care  to  remove  the  scum  as  it  n  saccharometer 

is  available  for  testing  the  heat  of  the  syrup,  it  should  be  boiled  until 
it  registers  220°  F. 

Average  Cost,  6d.       Sufficient  for  i  pint. 

2232.— SYRUP  FOR  WATER  ICES,  No.  2. 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  good  pinch  of  cream  of  tartar,  i 
quart  of  water,  the  white  and  shell  of  i  egg. 

Method. — Place  the  sugar,  cream  of  tartar,  water,  the  shell  and  well- 
whisked  white  of  egg  in  a  copper  sugar  boiler  or  siewpan,  boil  until 
reduced  to  a  syrup,  then  strain;  when  cool,  use  as  required. 

Average    Cost,    8d.     Sufficient   for  i   quart. 

2233.— TANGERINE   WATER   ICE.     (Fr.— Glace  aux 
Tangerines.) 

Ingredients.— f>  tangerines.  2  oranges,  j  lemons,  4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
I  pint  c»t  syrup. 

Method. — Rub  the  sugar  on  the  rind  of  the  tangerines  to  e\ 
some  of  the  flavour.     Place  the  sugar  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  thin  rind 
ol  i  or.ui-c  and  i  lemon,  ±  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and  boil  the  mixture 
for  10  minutes.     Skim  if  necessary,  add  the  juice  of  the  oranges  and 
lemons,  and  the  syrup,  boil  up,  then  strain,  and.  when  cold,  freeze. 

Time. — About    i    hour.     Average  Cost,  is.   3d.     Sufficient  for  6   or   7 


2234.— WATER  ICE  MADE  FROM  JAM.  (Fr.— Glace 
au  Confiture.) 

Ingredients. — |  a  Ib.  of  jam,  2  ozs.  of  icing  sugar,  i  pint  of  water, 
tho  juice  of  i  lemon,  liquid  colouring. 

Method.— Put  all  these  ingredients  together  in  a  stewpan,  bring  to  the 
lt<>il  skim  well,  and  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes.  Now  tammy  or 
rub  through  a  very  tine  hair  sieve,  add  a  few  drops  of  colouring  matter 
to  bright  en  the  colour,  and  when  cold  freeze  as  directed. 

Time.— About  $  an  hour.  Average  Cost.  6d.  or  9d.  Sufficient  lor  i$ 
pints. 


1060  HOUSEHOLI)   MANAGEMENT 


~  PI  H3TAW  3CH  \     ^ 

Sorbets,  Mousses  and  Ice 
Puddings 

2235.—  CHAMPAGNE   GRANITE.       (Fr.—  Granite   au 
Champagne.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  quart  of  lemon  water  ice  No.  2225,  £  a  bottle  of  cham- 
pagne, $  a  Ib.  of  fresh  fruit,  such  as  strawberries,  apricots,  peaches, 
all  cut  into  small  dice,  \  a  pint  of  crushed  ice. 

Method.  —  Prepare  and  freeze  the  lemon  water  ice,  and  stir  in  the 
champagne,  prepared  fruit  and  crushed  ice.  Serve  in  glasses  or  cups. 

Time.  —  About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  53.  to  6s.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
10  or  12  persons. 

2236.—  COFFEE  ICED.     (Fr.—  Cafe  Frappe  a  la  Van- 
ille.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  quart  of  strong,  clear,  hot  coffee,  £  a  pint  of  milk, 
?y  a  pint  of  cream,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  inch  of  vanilla  pod. 

Method.  —  Place  the  milk,  sugar  and  vanilla  in  a  stewpan,  bring  nearly 
to  boiling  point,  then  add  the  coffee,  and  let  the  mixture  cool.  Now 
strain,  stir  in  the  cream,  freeze  until  it  has  the  consistency  of  thick 
cream,  and  serve  in  this  condition.  Castor  sugar  should  be  handed 
with  the  coffee. 

Time.  —  About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  persons. 

2237.—  COFFEE  PARFAIT.     (Fr.—  Parfait  au  Moka.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  tablespoonful  of  coffee  extract,  6  yolks  of  eggs,  i£  ozs. 
of  castor  sugar,  i£  gills  of  syrup  No.  2231  or  2232,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream. 

Method.  —  Put  the  coffee  extract,  yolks  of  eggs,  sugar  and  syrup  into 
a  stewpan,  place  it  in  a  tin  containing  boiling  water,  and  whisk  the 
contents  until  they  thicken.  The  mixture  should  be  strongly  flavoured 
with  coffee,  therefore  add  more  essence  if  necessary,  and  let  the  mixture 
cool.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  stir  in  lightly,  pour  the  mixture  into  an 
ice  mould,  cover  closely  (see  p.  988),  and  pack  in  ice  for  2  or  3  hours. 

Time.  —  About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons. 

Note.  —  With  slight  variations  a  large  number  of  parfaits  may  be  based 
on  the  above  recipe.  For  Parfait  au  The,  £  a  gill  of  very  strong  tea  is  sub- 
stituted for  the  coffee  extract  ;  Parfait  au  Chocolat  may  be  flavoured 
with  3  or  4  ozs.  of  grated  chocolate  dissolved  in  a  little  milk  ;  Parfait  aux 
Abricot  or  Parfait  aux  Peches  have  pulped  fruit  added  as  a  flavouring 
ingredient.  Maraschino  and  Kirsch  also  enter  largely  into  the  composition 
of  this  particular  class  of  sweets,  the  Parfait,  as  a  matter  of  course,  taking 
its  name  from  the  liqueur. 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1061 

2238.— CREAM  SORBET.     (Fr.—  Sorbet  a  la  Creme.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  cream,  ±  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  oz.  of  vanilla 
the  whites  of  3  eggs,  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  £  of  a  gill  of  Maras- 
chino, i£  pints  of  boiling  water. 

Method. — Add  the  loaf  sugar  to  i£  pints  of  boiling  water,  reduce  a 
little  by  boiling  rapidly,  skimming  frequently  meanwhile,  and  add  the 
lemon-juice.  Strain,  and  thoroughly  cool,  then  stir  in  the  vanilla 
.  stiffly-whipped  cream,  well-whisked  whites  of  eggs,  and  Maras- 
chino. Freeze  to  the  required  consistency,  and  st 

Time.-  About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  oxl.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  persons. 

2239.— GOOSEBERRY  SORBET  WITH  MARASCHINO. 
(Fr. — Sorbet  de  Groseilles  au  Marasquin.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  green  gooseberries,  ^  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  ^  a 
pint  <>t  water,  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  £  a  gill  of  Maraschino,  gla< 
spinach  colouring. 

Method.  Pick  the  gooseberries,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the 
Wciter  and  su^ar,  cook  until  tender,  and  rub  through  a  h  Add 

non-juice  and  spinach  colouring  until  the  desired  shade  of 

.1    cold,   stir   in    the   Maraschino,    freeze   partially. 
in  small  glasses  garnished  with  strips  of  glace  cherries. 
Time. — About  i  hour.       Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.     Sufficient    for   6 
persons. 

2240.— GRAPE  SORBET.       (Fr.— Sorbet  de  Raisin.) 

Ingredients. —  i    pint   of  half-frozen   lemo;  j   dozen  large 

i    grapes,    i    wineglassful   of   sherry    or    Marsala,    i     win< 

Method.     Pass  the  grapes  through  a  hair  sieve,  add  them  to  the  lemon- 
halt  frozen,  and  mix  in  the  wine  and  elderflower  water. 
me  the  freezing  a  few  minutes  longer,  until  the  whole  is  in  a 
halt  frozen  condition.     Serve  in   sorbet   cups  or  glasses,  and  if 

i  with  grapes,  previously  peeled,  and  flavoured   with  a  little 
ischino. 

Time. — About  15  minutes  after  the  water  ice  is  ready.  Average 
Cost,  is.  od.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 

2241.— ICED  QUEEN'S    PUDDING.         (Fr.— Pouding 
Glace  a  la  Reine.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  pints  of  custard  No.   i    (p.  1046),    i   pint  of  cream, 

1  apricots,  shredded  or  cut  into  dice,  2  ozs.  01 
d  glace  cherries,  shrvddcd  or  cut    into  dice,  i  glass  of  Curacoa 
rids. 


1062  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Prepare  the  custard  as  directed;  when  half-frozen  add  the 
cream  stiffly-whipped  and  the  prepared  fruit,  and  press  into  a  fancy 
ice  mould.  Cover,  seal  the  edges  with  lard,  wrap  in  paper,  and  pack 
in  ice  and  salt  for  about  2  hours.  Blanch,  coarsely  chop  and  bake  the 
almonds  brown,  let  them  become  perfectly  cold,  and  sprinkle  them 
lightly  on  the  pudding  just  before  serving. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  43.  6d.  to  55.  Sufficient  for  7 
or  8  persons. 

2242.— LEMON  GRANITE.     (Fr.— Granite  au  Citron.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  half-frozen  lemon  water  ice,  \  a  pint  of  finely- 
crushed  ice,  i  glass  of  Maraschino-. 

Method. — Add  the  crushed  ice  and  Maraschino  to  the  half-frozen 
lemon  water  ice,  mix  thoroughly,  and  serve  in  small  cups  or  glasses. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9 
persons. 

2243.— LEMON  SORBET.       (Fr.— Sorbet  au  Citron.) 

Ingredients. — 8  lemons,  2  oranges,  10  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  ozs.  of 
castor  sugar,  3  whites  of  eggs,  ^  of  a  pint  of  Marsala  wine,  3  pints  of 
water. 

Method. — Place  the  loaf  sugar  in  a  stewpan  with  the  3  pints  of  water; 
let  it  dissolve,  then  boil  and  reduce  a  little,  and  skim  well  during  the 
process.  Add  the  finely-grated  rind  of  2  lemons,  the  juice  of  the  lemons 
and  oranges,  bring  to  the  boil,  strain,  and  let  the  preparation  cool. 
Partially  freeze,  then  add  the  well-whisked  whites  of  eggs,  sugar  and 
wine,  and  continue  the  freezing  until  the  desired  consistency  is  obtained. 

Time. — About  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons. 

Note. — Orange  sorbet  (sorbet  d'orange)  may  be  made  by  using  8  oranges 
and  2  lemons  instead  of  8  lemons  and  2  oranges. 

2244.— MARASCHINO  MOUSSE.        (Fr.— Mousse    au 
Marasquin.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  gill  of  Maraschino,  £  a  gill  of  Kirschwasser,  £  a  pint 
of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  4  yolks  of  eggs. 

Method.— Boil  the  4  ozs.  of  sugar  and  £  of  a  pint  of  water  to  a  syrup, 
skimming  meanwhile.  Stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the  Maras- 
chino and  Kirschwasser,  and  whisk  the  contents  of  the  basin  over  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  until  they  thicken.  Let  the  mixture. cool, 
stirring  frequently,  and  when  ready  to  use  add  the  stiffly-whipped 
cream.  Line  a  plain  mould  with  white  paper,  pour  in  the  preparation 
and  cover  closely,  first  with  paper,  and  then  with  the  lid.  Pack 
in  ice  and  salt  for  at  least  2  hours. 


RECIPES  FOR  ICES  1063 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons. 

2245.— MILK  PUNCH.     (Fr.— Punch  au  Lait.) 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  milk,  4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  gill  of  cream, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  rum. 

Method.  -Boil  the  milk,  dissolve  the  sugar  in  it,  then  strain,  and  when 
cool  partially  freeze.  Add  the  brandy,  rum,  and  the  cream  whipped, 
mix  well,  and  freeze  a  little  longer.  Serve  in  a  half-frozen  condition 
in  small  china  sorbet  cups,  and,  if  liked,  grate  on  a  little  nutmeg  or 
cinnamon  over  before  serving. 

Time. — From  i  to  \\  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.     Sufficient 

2246.— NEAPOLITAN  ICE.    (Fr.  -Glace  Napolitaine.) 

Ingredients. — j  of  a  pint  of  strawberry  or  raspberry  pulp,  \  an  oz.  of 
grated  chocolate,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  i*  pints  of  milk,  $  a  pint  of  cream, 
of  castor  sugar,  Jf  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  essence,  carmine  or 
neal. 

Method.     Cream   the  yolks  of  eggs  and  3  ozs.  of  castor  sugar  well 

Add  the  rest  of  the  sugar  to  the  milk,  and  when  boiling 

'ii  to  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar,  stirring  vigorously  me.mwhilr. 

.iiul  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture 

ns,   then  strain.     Dissolve   the  chocolate   in    i    tablespoonful  of 

mix  with  it  $  of  the  custard,  and  let  it  cool.     Mix  the  fruit  pulp 

with  half  the  remaining  custard,  and  it  necessary  add  a  few  drops  of 

carmim-.     To  the  other  third  oi   the  custard  add  the  vanilla  essence. 

Whip  the  cream  slightly,  divide  it  into  3  equal  portions,  and  add  i  to 

each  prep  nation      Freeze  separately,  then  pack  in  layers  in  a 

politan  ice-box,  or,  failing  this,  a  mould  best  suited  to  the  purpose. 

closely,  and  alt  and  ice  for  about  2  hours.     Serve  cut 

Time.     From   i  to  i$  hours.     Average  Cost,  about  2s.     Sufficient  for 
>ons. 

2247.— NESSELRODE    PUDDING.          (Fr.— Pouding 
Glace  a  la  Nesselrode.) 

Ingredients. — 3  dozen  chestnuts,  |  a  pint   of  milk,  i  pint  of  cream, 
loaf  sugar,  j  ozs.  of  glace  cherries  cut  into  dice,  S  yolks  of 

oe,  i  glass  of  Maraschino. 

Method.   -Shell,  parboil,  and  skin  the  chestnuts,  simmer  them  in  i 

milk  until  tender,  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.     Bring  the 

.   to  boiling  point,  add  the  yolks  of  eggs, 

the  fire  until  they  thicken,  then  stir  them  into  the 


1064  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

chestnut  puree.  Let  this  mixture  become  cold,  add  £  the  cream, 
freeze  until  nearly  set,  then  stir  in  the  Maraschino,  cherries,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  cream  stiffly-whipped.  Freeze  until  set,  stirring 
frequently,  then  press  into  a  fancy  ice  mould,  cover,  seal  the  edges 
with  lard,  wrap  in  paper,  and  bury  in  ice  and  salt  until  required. 

Time. — About  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  45.  Sufficient 
for  9  or  10  persons. 

2248.— NOYEAU  SORBET.    (Fr.—  Sorbet  au  Noyeau,) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  half-frozen  lemon  water  ice  No.  2225,  i  gill 
of  noyeau,  the  juice  of  i  orange,  whipped-cream,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Prepare  and  half-freeze  the  lemon  water  ice,  then  add  the 
noyeau  and  orange-juice,  and  continue  the  freezing  until  the  proper 
degree  of  hardness  is  obtained.  Three-parts  fill  the  sorbet  glasses  or 
cups  with  the  preparation,  and  cover  roughly  with  sweetened  stiffly- 
whipped  cream. 

Time. — 15  minutes  after  the  water  ice  is  ready.  Average  Cost, 
2S.  6d.  to  2s.  9d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

2249.— PINEAPPLE  MOUSSE.     (Fr.— Mousse  a  1'An- 
anas.) 

Ingredients. — 10  ozs.  of  preserved  pineapple,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  £  a  gill  of  pineapple  syrup,  i£  gills  of  cream, 
£  of  a  gill  of  Maraschino,  i£  gills  of  lemon  or  wine  jelly  No.  2020,  glace 
cherries. 

Method. — Mask  the  jelly  mould  with  a  thin  layer  of  jelly,  and  decorate 
with  the  cherries.  Pound  and  chop  the  pineapple  finely,  and  rub  it 
through  a  hair  sieve.  Dissolve  the  sugar  and  gelatine  in  the  pineapple 
syrup,  and  let  the  mixture  cool.  Melt  the  remainder  of  the  jelly;  let 
it  cool,  and  whisk  it  over  the  ice  to  a  stiff  froth.  Add  this  and  the 
stiffly-whipped  cream  to  the  pineapple  puree,  stir  in  the  gelatine  when 
cool,  add  the  Maraschino,  and  pour  into  the  prepared  mould.  Let  it 
remain  on  ice  for  2  hours. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

2250.— RASPBERRY   OR    STRAWBERRY    SORBET. 
(Fr. — Sorbet  aux  Praises  ou  Framboises.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  raspberry  or  strawberry  water  ice  preparation, 
No.  2229,  £  a  gill  of  Sauterne,  i  glass  of  Cura9oa. 

Method.— Prepare  and  half-freeze  the  water  ice,  add  the  wine  and 
Cura9oa,  continue  the  freezing  until  the  proper  degree  is  obtained, 
then  serve. 


RECIPES  FOR   ICES  1065 

Time. — 15  minutes  after  the  water  ice  is  ready.  Average  Cost,  23. 
to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 

2251.— ROMAN  PUNCH.   (Fr.— Punch  a  la  Romaine.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  quart  of  water,  6  lemons,  2  oranges, 
3  whites  of  eggs,  |  of  a  pint  of  rum  or  Kirschwasser. 

Method. — Place  the  water  and  sugar  in  a  copper  sugar  boiler  or 
stewpan,  and  boil  to  a  syrup.  Add  the  thinly-cut  rind  of  3  lemons 
and  i  orange,  the  orange  and  lemon-juice,  and  bring  to  the  boil. 
When  cold,  strain,  partially  freeze,  then  add  the  rum  or  Kirschwasser, 
the  stiffly-whipped  whites  of  eggs,  and  freeze  for  a  few  minutes  longer. 
Serve  in  a  half-frozen  condition  in  sorbet  cups  or  glasses. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  gd.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  person-. 

2252.— STRAWBERRY  OR  RASPBERRY  SOUFFLE 
ICED.  (Fr. — Souffle  Frappe  aux  Fraises  ou 
Framboises.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  gill  of  strawberry  or  raspberry  pulp,  £  a  pint  of 
cream,  8  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  leaf  gelatine,  2  lemons,  3  yolks 
vhites  of  eggs,  £  of  a  gill  of  lemon  or  wine  jelly,  ^  of  a  gill  of 
irrant  jelly. 

Method. — Add  the  sugar,  the  juice  and  finely-grated  rinds  of  the 
lemons  to  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  whisk  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling 

until  the  mixture  thickens.  Add  the  gelatine,  previous! 
1  in  i  tablespoonful  of  water,  and  the  fruit  pulp,  let  the  mixture 
cool,  then  stir  in  the  well-whisked  whites  of  eggs  and  the  stil'il y-whippcd 
cream.  Have  ready  a  silver  plated  souffle  dish  with  a  band  of  strong 
white  paper  raised  about  2  inches  above  the  rim,  pour  in  the  mixture, 
let  it  stand  on  ice  for  about  2  hours.  Melt  the  wine  and  red-currant 
,  let  them  cool,  and  as  soon  as  the  surface  of  the  souffle  is  firm 
r  it  over.  To  serve:  remove  the  band  of  paper,  and  send  to  table 
in  the  souffle  dish. 

Time.  -Al  out  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  js.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons. 


•.    ;-;'  i         .'      .    .        • 

DESSERT, 

DESSERT   SWEETS  AND 
;!     SWEETMEATS 

CHAPTER    XXXIV 

Dessert  at  the  Present  Day  does  not  hold  the  same  relationship  to  the 
dinner  that  it  held  with  the  ancients — the  Romans  more  especially. 
On  ivory  tables  they  would  spread  hundreds  of  different  kinds  of  raw, 
cooked  and  preserved  fruits,  tarts  and  cakes,  as  substitutes  for  the  more 
substantial  comestibles  with  which  the  guests  were  satiated.  No  part 
of  a  dinner  is  governed  more  by  individual  tastes  and  circumstances 
than  the  dessert;  it  may  consist  of  one  or  more  dishes  of  choice  fruits; 
or  a  varied  display  may  be  provided  at  a  comparatively  trifling  cost, 
when  the  dessert  is  composed  principally  of  fruits  in  season  and  home- 
made sweets.  Pines,  melons,  grapes,  peaches,  nectarines,  plums, 
strawberries,  cherries,  apples,  pears,  oranges,  figs,  raisins,  walnuts, 
filberts,  crystallized  fruits,  fancy  ices,  fancy  cakes  and  biscuits,  make 
up  the  dessert,  together  with  dainty  sweets  and  bon-bons,  with  which 
the  present  chapter  deals. 

Dessert  Services. — The  shape,  material  and  pattern  of  dessert  services 
is  so  varied,  and  depends  so  much  upon  taste,  that  the  word  "  fashion  " 
may  hardly  be  used  in  reference  to  them,  though  it  may  be  said  that 
the  services  now  used  are  those  in  which  the  colours  are  pale  and 
delicate,  and  that  the  stands  for  fruit  are  of  medium  height  or  quite 
low.  White  china  now  forms  some  of  the  prettiest  dessert  sen -u  - -s, 
and  is  well  calculated  to  show  off  the  beauty  of  the  fruit,  the  effect 
being  particularly  good  when  the  stands  are  surrounded  by  trails  of 
flowers  and  foliage,  or  placed  upon  artistically  arranged  silk  of  some 
delicate  hue,  contrasting  or  harmonizing  with  the  flowers.  If  available, 
bon-bons  are  usually  served  in  small  silver  dishes  constructed  for  the 
purpose,  otherwise  they  should  be  daintily  arranged  in  small  fancy 
dishes  lined  with  lace-edged  dessert  papers,  or  in  tiny  ornamental 
paper  cases. 

Arrangement  of  Fruit. — No  hard  and  fast  rules  can  be  laid  down  \\ith 
reference  to  this,  except  that  such  easily  damaged  fruits  as  straw- 
berries should  never  be  mixed  with  the  more  solid  kinds.  In  nearly 

1068 


DESSERT. 


\ 


I.  Spanish  Nuts.          2.   Pulled  Figs.          ;.    Almonds. 


MM* 


DESSERT. 


i.     Walnuts.         2.     Filberts.         3.     Brazils. 


72 


DESSERT  SWEETMEATS  1067 

all  cases  the  beauty  of  the  fruit  may  be  enhanced  by  surrounding  it  with 
foliage.  Keen  competitors  in  public  favour  are  the  tender  green, 
delicately  trailing  smilax,  the  beautiful  feathery  asparagus,  and  the 
double-edged  mallow;  strawberry'  and  vine  leaves  have  a  pleasing 
effect  ;  while  for  winter  desserts,  the  bay,  cuba  and  laurel  are  some- 
time- ust-d,  holly  also  being  in  demand  from  Christmas  Eve  to  the 
middlo  of  January. 

Dessert  Sweets  and  Sweetmeats. — Until  recently  the  art  of  sweetmeat  - 
making  was  little  understood,  and  still  less  practised,  by  private  indi- 
viduals.    Even  now   there  exists  a  mistaken  idea  that   this  artistic 
branch  oi  cookery  presents  many  difficulties,  and  that  elaborate  utensils 
and  implements  are  essential.     Certainly  success  is  more  assured  when 
'rations  are  aided  by  a  saccharometer,  marble  slab,  crystallizing 
hut  they  are  not  indispensable.     By  measuring  accurately, 
.g  repeatedly,  and  by  taking  care  to  apply  the  right  amount  of 
heat,  an  amateur  should  find  no  difficulty  in  preparing  any  of  the  sweet- 
meats for  which  recipes  are  given  on  the  following  p 

Except  when  otherwise  stated,  the  lid  should  be  kept  on  the  stcwpan 
while  the  sugar  is  lx  in-  brought  to  boiling  point  and  during  the  early 
stages  of  the  following  process,  to  prevent  the  sugar  cryMalli/ing  on 

des  of  the  pan.     When  this  occurs,  the  particles  of  sugar  adl 
to  the  sides  oi  the  stewpan  must  I*  d  by  means  of  a  brush 

llowed  to  remain,  they  may  cause  the  sugar  to 

grain.     Cream  of  tartar  is  added  to  the  syrup  to  prevent  the  sugar 
lating,  and  carbonate  of  soda  serves  to  whiten  the  toffee,  etc., 
with  \vhi«  h   it    is  mixed. 

When  cooking  over  gas  it  is  advisable  to  have  a  piece  of  sheet-iron 

to  place  over  the  gas  burners  when  a  very  slow  continuous  application 

as  in  making  caramels,  etc.     In  boiling  treacle  and 

brown  sugar  a  large  stcwpan  should  i  as  these  ingredients  are 

apt  to  lx)il  over  more  quickly  than  white  sugar. 

Of  the  utensils  and  implements  mentioned  in  the  following  pages, 

those  absolutely  necessary  are  simple  and  inexpensive,  and  comprise 

a  hair  sieve;  a  spatula,  which  is  flat,  wooden,  with  a  broad  rounded  end 

ng  off  to  a  long  narrow  handle;  a  sweet  fork  and  ring,  both  made 

of  twisted  \\iiv;  and  a  candy  hook.     For  this  latter  implement  may  be 

1  a  strong  iron  larder  hook,  which  should  be  fixed  firmly  on  a 

t  from  the  floor,  according  to  the  height  of  the  worker. 

a  sugar  skimmer  is  not  available  for  testing  the  sugar  as  it 

approaches  the  "  small  ball  "  degree,  a  piece  of  wire  twisted  to  form 

small  riiu;s  will  be  found  a  good  substitute.     A  saccharometer,  caramel 

cutter,  crystal'  >ulds,  and  a  marble  slab  are  indispensable 

o  wish  to  excel  in  the  higher  branches  of  the  art  of  sweet- 

;.£,  but   with  ptions,  all  the  following  recipes  require 

nothing  further  for  their  preparation  than  the  few  simple  appliance* 

enumerated  above, 


io68  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Dessert 

2253.— ALMONDS  AND  RAISINS. 

The  dish  in  which  these  are  served  should  be  covered  with  a  lace- 
edged  paper.  The  fruit  should  be  separated  into  branches  suitable  for 
serving,  piled  high  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  and  the  almonds  blanched 
and  scattered  over.  To  prepare  the  almonds,  place  in  cold  water, 
bring  to  boil,  skin  and  use  as  required. 

2254.— ALMONDS  SALTED  AND  DEVILLED. 

These  are  much  appreciated  after  the  sweet  course.  They  are  pre- 
pared by  tossing  blanched  almonds  in  hot  oil  or  butter,  the  process  of 
which  is  fully  described  in  previous  recipe. 

2255.— APPLES  AND  PEARS. 

These  should  be  well  rubbed  with  a  clean  soft  cloth,  and  arranged 
in  a  dish,  piled  high  in  the  centre,  with  green  leaves  between  the  layers. 
The  inferior  fruit  should  form  the  bottom  layer,  with  the  bright- 
coloured  ones  on  the  top.  Oranges  may  be  arranged  and  garnished 
in  the  same  manner. 

2256.— APRICOTS,  PEACHES,  PLUMS,  NECTARINES, 
OR  GREEN  FIGS. 

The  beautiful  colouring  of  these  fruits  when  good  and  ripe  renders 
anything  more  than  a  few  green  leaves  for  garnish  necessary.  These, 
when  possible,  should  be  vine  leaves,  otherwise  the  more  delicate  kinds 
of  ferns  are  suitable.  The  fruit  looks  best  when  arranged  a  little  from 
the  edge  of  the  stand  and  piled  pyramidically. 

2257.— BANANAS. 

Bananas  look  best  when  mixed  with  other  fruits,  and  possibly  the 
best  effect  is  produced  by  arranging  them  with  a  series  of  arches  over 
a  single  layer  of  apples  or  oranges,  a  fine  apple  or  orange  being  piled 
in  the  centre  where  the  points  of  the  bananas  meet. 

2258.— CURRANTS  AND  GOOSEBERRIES. 

Red  and  white  currants  may  be  mixed  with  good  effect;  they  should  be 
be  piled  in  alternate  layers  to  form  a  pyramid.  Gooseberries  should 
also  be  piled  high,  but  need  no  other  arrangement, 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  DESSERT  1069 

2259.— DATES,  FIGS,  FRENCH  PLUMS. 

All  these  should  be  daintily  arranged  on  small  dishes  covered  with 
lace-edged  papers,  which  replace  the  leaves  used  with  fresh  fruit. 

DATES.— Dates  are  imported  into  Britain,  in  a  dried  state,  from  Barbary  and  Egypt,  and,  when 
in  good  condition,  they  are  much  esteemed.     An  inferior  kind  has  lately  become  common,  which  is 
•  >.l.  and  has  little  or  no  flavour.     Dates  should  be  chosen  large,  soft,  not  much  wrinkled, 
of  a  reidish  colour  on  the  outside,  with  a  white  membrane  between  the  fruit  and  the  stone. 

2260.— GRAPES. 

-e  may  be  mixed  or  not,  according  to  taste,  but  the  blending  of 

.ind  black  fruit  enhances  the  beauty  of  both.     Vine  leaves, 

when  procurable,  should  be  put  round  the  edge  of  the  dish.     Grape 

scissors  must  always  accompany  the  grapes,  as  without  them  serving  is 

very  difficult,  fine  bunches  being  easily  spoilt. 

2261.— NUTS. 

re  simply  arranged  piled  high  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  with 
or  without  leaves  round  the  edge.       Filberts  or  other  nuts  of  tl: 
scription  should  always  be  served  with  the  out.  husk  on  : 

ainut*  should  be  well  wiped  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  aftei 
with  a  dry  cne,  to  remove  the  unpleasant  tin-  sh< •:: 

qucntly  have     Chestnuts,  when  boiled  or  roasted,  should  be  - 
on  a  folded  serviette. 

HA/EL  Sirr  AMD  HLBEMT.— The  common  haxal  is  the  wild,  and  the  filbert  the  cultivated,  variety 
of  the  same  tree.    Tbj  hazel  is  found  wild,  not  only  in  lore*,  and  hedge*,  in  dingle*  and  ravine*,  but 


occurs  in  extensive  tract*  in   the   more    mountainous    parts    of    the    country.      It    was    for- 
'  abundant  of  the  tree*  which  an  indigenous  to  this  Mand.    It  is  seldom  oil u- 


incrlv  CM  ••  ..f  th"  DM 


vated  as  a  fruit  tree,  though  perhaps  its  nuts  are  nperior  in  flavour  to  the  other*.  The  Spanish 
nuts  imported  are  a  siperior  kind,  but  they  are  somewhat  oily  and  rather  indigestible.  Fftberts. 
both  the  red  and  the  rhite.  and  the  cob-not,  are  supposed  to  be  merely  varieties  of  the  common 
hazel,  which  have  been  produced  partly  by  the  superiority  of  sort  and  climate,  and  partly  by  culture. 

ive  found  their  way  to  Holland. 
oMIaidstom,  in  K«t. 

market  i»  supplied,    tn.  filbert  is  longer  than  the  common  nut.  though  of  the 

ha*  a  larger  kernel    The  too- nut  is  a  still  larger  variety,  and  b  rounder.    Filberti 

lor  dessert  than  common  oats,  and  are  generally  eaten  with  salt    They  an  very  free  from  oil,  and 

disagree  with  few  penom. 


They  were  originally  bnoght  out  of  Greece  to  Italy,  whence  ther  have  fonn 
a  that  country  :o  England.     It  i*  supposed  that,  within  a  lew  mil«s 

there  are  more  filN*ts  giown  than  in  all  England  besides  ;  and  it  is  from  that  district  that  the  London 
is  supplied.    Th.  filbert  b  longer  than  the  common  nut.  though  of  the  same  thtckne**.  and 

has  a  larger  kernel.     Thecob-nutis  a  still  larger  variety,  and  b  rounder.     Filberts  are  more  esteemed 


2262.— PINE  CR  MELON. 

Vine  leaves  should  first  be  placed  upon  the  dish  and  the  fruit  stood 
upon  them.  If  a  pne  does  not  stand  upright,  a  slice  may  be  cut  off 
the  bottom  to  level  it.  A  melon  should  have  the  stalk  showing  at  the 
top. 

— The  melon  is    frequently  served  as  an  hors 

frepared  this  way.  it  is  excellent  as  a  summer  luncheon 
>n  Cartaloup. 


1070  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2263.— STRAWBERRIES  AND  CHERRIES. 

These  should  be  arranged  in  rows  in  a  pyramidal  form,  with  the  stalks 
inwards,  so  that  when  the  whole  is  completed,  nothing  but  the  red  part 
of  the  fruit  is  visible.  When  strawberries  are  served  with  cream,  the 
stalks  should  be  removed. 


Dessert  Sweets  and  Sweetmeats 

2264— BOILING  SUGAR. 

Although  sugar  may  be  boiled,  and  the  degree  approximately  gauged 
by  applying  certain  simple  tests,  the  process  is  greatly  simplified  by  the 
use  of  a  saccharometer. 

The  different  degrees  to  which  sugar  is  boiled  are  classed  is  follows: — 

I.  Small  Thread   .     215°  F.      VI.   Large  Blow  or  Feat Jier  23 3°  F. 

II.   Large  Thread  .     21 7°  F.     VII.   Small  Ball           .      ;      .  237°  F. 

III.  Small  Pearl       .      220°  F.   VIII.  Large  Ball    ....  247°  F. 

IV.  Large  Pearl      .     222°  F.       IX.  Small  Crack.      .     I     .  290°  F. 

V.  Small  Blow      .      230°  F.        X.  Large  Crack        .      .   I.  3i2°F. 

XI.  Caramel,  350°  Fahrenheit. 

226s.— THE  SMALL  THREAD. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs  of  loaf  sugar,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  bring  to  boi5ng  point,  and 
remove  the  scum.  Boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  dip  the  dp  of  the  fore- 
finger into  the  syrup  and  apply  it  to  the  thumb.  If,  «n  immediately 
separating  the  finger  and  thumb,  the  syrup  is  drawn  out  into  a  fine 
thread  which  breaks  at  a  short  distance,  the  sugar  is  boiled  to  the 
small  thread  (2 1 5°  F). 

2266.— THE  LARGE  THREAD. 

Boil  the  syrup  a  little  longer,  and  apply  the  same,test;  if  the  thread 
can  be  drawn  longer  without  breaking,  the  syrup  is  boiled  to  the  large 
thread  (217°  F). 


2267.— THE  SMALL  PEARL. 

Continue  the  boiling  for  a  few  moments  and  proceed  as  before. 
When  the  thumb  and  forefinger  may  be  separated  to  a  little  distance 
without  breaking  the  thread,  the  sugar  is  boiled  .o  the  small  pearl 
(1220°.  Fj). 

\ 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  1071 

2268.—  THE  LARGE  PEARL. 

After  a  little  further  boiling  dip  the  forefinger  in  again,  stretch  the 
thumb  and  forefinger  as  far  as  possible,  and  if  the  thread  remains 
uibroken  the  sugar  has  been  boiled  to  the  large  pearl  (222°  F.). 

226s—  THE  SMALL  BLOW. 


little  longer,  then  take  a  skimmer,  dip  it  into  the  syrup,  drain 
it  well  over  the  pan,  and  blow  through  the  holes.  If  small  bubbles 
appear  >n  the  other  side  of  the  skimmer,  the  sugar  is  boiled  to  the  small 
blow  (235°  F.). 

2270.-THE  LARGE  BLOW  OR  FEATHER. 

After  a  moment's  further  boiling  repeat  the  test,  and  when  the 
bubbles  appear  in  much  larger  quantities  and  fly  off  the  skimmer  when 
shaken,  likt  small  feathers  or  down,  the  sugar  is  boiled  to  the  large 
blow  233  1  . 

2271.—  THE  SMALL  BALL. 

Now  dip  the  forefinger  into  a  basin  of  cold  water,  then  dip  it  into 
iv'«ir.  -ad  again  quickly  into  the  water.     \Vhcn  the  sugar  can  be 
rolled  bet  wen  the  thumb  and  forefinger  into  a  small  ball  it  has  reached 
the  stage  knuvn  by  that  name  (237°  F.). 

2272.—  TPE  LARGE  BALL. 

Continue  th  boiling  and  proceed  as  before;  as  soon  as  the  sugar  can 
i  mccl  int(  a  larger  and  harder  ball,  it  is  boiled  to  the  large  ball 

F.) 

2273.—  THE  SMALL  CRACK. 

Boil  for  a  monent  longer,  then  dip  in  the  forefinger,  and  if  the  sugar 
adhering  to  it  bnk*  with  a  slight  noise,  and  sticks  to  the  teeth  when 
bitten,  it  is  boild  to  the  small  crack  (290°  F.). 


2274. -THE  -ARGE  CRACK. 

a  lit tU-  <>M;rr%  dip  the  forefinger  into  cold  water,  then  into  the 
sugar,  and  .ig..n  quickly  into  the  water.  If  the  sugar  breaks  short  and 
Brittle,  an  t  stick  to  the  teeth  when  bitten,  it  is  boiled  to  the 

large  crack  (12°  F.). 


1072  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

2275.— THE  CARAMEL. 

If  the  boiling  is  prolonged  beyond  this  stage,  the  sugar  soon  begins  to 
acquire  a  little  colour,  which  gradually  deepens  until  brown,  and  finally 
black,  burnt  sugar  is  obtained. 


2276.— TO   SPIN   SUGAR. 


Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  best  loaf  sugar,  |  a  pint  of  water,  \  a  saltspconful 
of  cream  of  tartar. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water  in  a  copper  sugar  boiler 
or  stewpan,  and  boil  to  the  "  large  crack  "  degree.  Add  the  ceam  of 
tartar,  draw  the  pan  aside,  repeatedly  test  the  consistency  of  t}e  syrup 
by  means  of  a  tablespoon,  and  use  as  soon  as  it  runs  in  a  fir£  thread 
from  the  spoon  to  the  pan.  Now  take  in  the  left  hand  a  lage  knife, 
previously  oiled,  hold  it  in  a  horizontal  position,  and  spin  the  ;ugar  into 
fine  threads  by  moving  the  spoon  containing  it  to  and  fro  o\^r  the  flat 
blade  of  the  knife. 

To  spin  sugar  successfully  it  must  be  done  in  a  dry  atrmsphere,  and 
the  worker  must  avoid  standing  in  a  draught. 

2277.— TO  CLARIFY  SUGAR,  FOR  SYRUP. 

Ingredients. — 6  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  quart  of  water,  2  whites  o  eggs. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water  in  a  large  stewian,  but  do 
not  let  it  become  very  hot.  Beat  the  whites  of  eggs,  poV  the  warm 
syrup  on  to  them,  and  return  to  the  stewpan.  When  thfsyrup  boils, 
add  £  a  gill  of  cold  water,  repeat  3  times,  thus  using  inall  4-  a  pint. 
Now  draw  the  pan  aside  for  about  10  minutes,  then  strain^y  means  of  a 
jelly  bag  or  fine  muslin,  and  use  as  required. 

2278.— ALMOND  ROCK. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  almond,  i  of  a  Ib.  of 
glucose,  \  a  pint  of  water,  essence  of  almonds. 

Method. — Blanch  and  dry  the  almonds  thoroughl)  Dissolve  the 
sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  glucose,  and  boil  to  thr  "  little  crack" 
degree.  Remove  the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  add  the  almonds,  a  few 
drops  of  essence  of  almonds,  boil  until  it  acquires  a  golden-brown 
colour,  and  pour  on  to  oiled  or  buttered  tins. 

2279.— ALMOND  ROCK.     (Another  Metiod.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  brown  moist  sugar,  5  ozs.  of  ilrtonds,  8  ozs.  of 
glucose,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  essence  of  almonds. 

Method. — Blanch  the  almonds,  split  them  in  halves  lengthwise,  and 


place  them  cut  side  downwards  on  an  oiled  or  buttered 


Dissolve 


FRUIT. 


10 


I.— Black  Gra 
6. 


ck  Grapes.       a.— Muscat  Grapes        3.— Tangerines.       4.  — Bananas.       5.—  Oranges. 
PlMahiii.      7.— Pears       ft.—  Pineapple.      9  and  to.— Apples. 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  io;j 

the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  glucose,  flavour  to  taste,  and  boil  to  the 
"  hard  crack  "  degree.     Let  the  preparation  cool  slightly,  then  pour 
slowly  and  carefully  over  the  almonds.     Brown  sugar  should 
always  be  boiled  in  a  rather  large  stewpan,  as  it  is  apt  to  boil  over. 

2280.— ALMOND  STICKS. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  Jordan  almonds,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  icinq  sugar, 
£  of  a  Ib.  of  vanilla  sugar,  the  whiu-s  ot  5  eggs,  royal  icing  No.  1736, 
vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Blanch  and  dry  the  almonds  thoroughly  in  a  cool  oven, 

:>ound  them  finely  in  a  mortar,  adding  by  degrees  the  icing  sugar 

and  vanilla  sugar.     When  perfectly  smooth  add  the  whites  of  eggs,  and 

A  ell-mixed  turn  the  whole  on  to  a  marble  slab.     Knead  it 
roll  it  out  to  about  4-inch  in  thick m-^.  and  cut  it  into  strips  about  2 
long  and  \  an  inch  wide.      Place  them  on  a  greased  and  floured 
; -sheet,  cover  them  with  r<>-  flavoured  with  vanilla,  and 

in  a  very  slow  oven  for  about  $  an  hour.     These  sticks  may  be 
!  as  dessert  or  handed  round  with  the  ices  instead  of  wafers. 

2281.— ALMOND  TOFFEE. 

Ingredients,  i  Ib.  of  loaf  >ugar,  5  ozs.  of  almonds,  |  a  pint  of  water,  a 
pinch  of  cream  of  tartar,  almond  essence. 

Method. — Blanch  and  skin  the  almonds,  cut  them  across  in  halves, 
and  dry  them  in  the  oven  without  browning.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the 
water,  add  the  cream  of  tartar,  and  boil  until  a  deep  amber-coloured 
syrup  d.  Remove  the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  add  the  almonds, 

boil  up  again,  and  pour  on  to  a  buttered  or  oiled  tin. 

2282.— ALMOND  TOFFEE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  granulated  sugar,  £  a  Ib.  of  almonds,  $  of  a  Ib.  of 
bur 

Method. — Blanch  the  almonds,  split  them  lengthwise,  and  dry  thor- 
oughly in  a  cool  oven.     Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  sugar, 
ill  "  degree,  then  stir  in  the  almonds  and  continue 
to  the  "  crack."     Pour  into  an  oiled  or  buttered  tin,  and, 
1<  up  into  pieces. 

2283.- -AMERICAN  CANDY. 

Ingredients.— 2  Ib.  of  moist  sugar,  $  a  pint  of  water,  cream  of  tartar, 
ic  acid,  i  oonful  of  golden  syrup,  saffron-yellow,  flavour- 

ing essence. 

Method.     Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  a  good  i  teaspoonful 
un  of  tart.ir,  and  l>oil  to  the  "  large  crack  "  degree.     Pour  on 


1074  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

to  an  oiled  slab,  add  a  little  saffron-yellow  or  other  colouring  ingredient, 
and  flavour  to  taste.  Any  flavouring  substance  may  be  used,  but  it 
should  agree  with  the  colour  of  the  candy;  thus  red  should  be  flavoured 
with  raspberry  essence,  yellow  with  pineapple,  etc.  Add  also  a  pinch 
of  tartaric  acid  and  the  golden  syrup,  work  well  in,  fold  up,  then  pull 
over  an  oiled  hook,  and  cut  into  squares. 

2284.— BARLEY  SUGAR. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  clarified  syrup  No.  2231,  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  5  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  saffron-yellow. 

Method. — Boil  the  prepared  syrup  to  the  "  large  crack,"  add  the 
lemon-juice  and  lemon-essence,  and  reboil  until  it  acquires  a  little 
colour.  Now  add  a  few  drops  of  saffron-yellow,  and  pour  at  once  on 
to  an  oiled  slab.  When  cool,  cut  into  drops  about  6  inches  long  and 
i  inch  wide,  and  twist  them.  Keep  in  air-tight  tins. 

2285.-BARLEY  SUGAR.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  pint  of  water,  |  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of  cream  of  tartar,  essence  of  lemon,  saffron- 
colouring. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  boil  to  the  "small  ball" 
degree  (see  No.  2271),  and  add  the  lemon-juice.  Continue  boiling  to 
the  "  large  crack,"  add  a  few  drops  of  saffron-yellow,  flavour  to  taste, 
and  turn  on  to  an  oiled  slab.  When  cool,  cut  into  narrow  strips,  twist 
them  into  a  spiral  form,  and  when  perfectly  cold  store  them  in  air-tight 
tins  or  boxes. 

2286.— BURNT  ALMONDS. 

Ingredients. — if  Ib.  of  granulated  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  almonds,  cold  water. 

Method.— Blanch  the  almonds  and  dry  them  thoroughly  in  a  cool 
oven.  Put  i  Ib.  of  sugar  and  i£  gills  of  water  into  a  stewpan,  bring 
to  the  boil,  then  add  the  almonds,  and  boil  gently  by  the  side  of  the 
fire.  Wrhen  the  almonds  make  a  slight  crackling  noise,  remove  the 
pan  further  from  the  fire,  stir  until  the  sugar  granulates,  then  turn 
the  whole  on  to  a  coarse  sieve.  Shake  well,  put  the  sugar  that  passes 
through  the  sieve  into  a  stewpan,  add  to  it  i£  gills  of  water  and  the 
remaining  |  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  and  let  it  boil  to  the  "  soft  ball  "  degree. 
Now  add  the  almonds,  which  should  in  the  meantime  have  been  kept 
warm,  stir  until  well  coated,  but  at  the  first  inclination  they  show  of 
sticking  together,  remove  them  from  the  fire,  and  place  them  on  the 
sieve  as  before.  The  second  coating  of  sugar  is  frequently  coloured 
and  flavoured  according  to  individual  taste. 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  1075 

2287.—  BURNT  ALMONDS.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  Demarara  sugar,  £  a  Ib.  of  almonds,  i  gill  of 
water. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  and  water  into  a  stewpan  and  stir  occasionally 
until  dissolved.  As  soon  as  it  comes  to  the  boil  cease  stirring,  boil 
2  or  3  minutes,  and  add  the  almonds.  Now  stir  briskly  until  the  sugar 
browns  slightly  and  granulates,  and  has  completely  coated  the  almonds, 
then  turn  them  on  to  a  sieve,  separate  any  that  may  have  stuck  to- 
gether, and  let  them  remain  until  cold, 

2288.— BUTTER  SCOTCH. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  cream  of 
tartar,  £  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Place  the  sugar  and  milk  in  a  stewpan,  and  stir  occasionally 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Now  add  the  cream 
of  tartar  and  the  butter  a  small  piece  at  a  time,  and  boil  the  mixture 
until  a  little,  dropped  into  cold  water,  forms  a  moderately  hard  ball. 
Pour  on  to  an  oiled  or  buttered  tin,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  sufficiently  firm, 
mark  off  into  small  oblongs  or  squares,  and  when  cold,  divide  the 
sections  thus  formed.  Wrap  each  piece  first  in  wax  paper,  then  in 
tinfoil. 

2289.— BUTTER  SCOTCH.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  moist  sugar,  \  a  Ib.  of  butter,  \  a  teacupful  of  cold 
water,  essence  of  almonds. 

Method. — Put  the  water  and  sugar  into  a  stewpan,  let  the  mixture 
stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  dissolved,  then  add  the  butter  and 
boil  until  the  mixture  becomes  quite  thick.  Stir  occasionally  until  it 
begins  to  thicken,  and  afterwards  continuously,  as  this  preparation 
is  liable  to  stick  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Pour  on  to  an  oiled  or 
buttered  tin,  and  mark  and  divide  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 

2290.— CANDY.  (See  American  Candy,  No.  2283, 
American  Molasses  Candy,  No.  2291,  Cocoa- 
nut  Candy,  No.  2312,  Candy  Twist,  No.  2298, 
Pineapple  Snow  Candy,  No.  2340,  Treacle 
Candy,  No.  2352,  and  Candy  Kisses,  White 
Almond,  No.  2294.) 

229i.^CANDY,  AMERICAN  MOLASSES. 

Ingredients. — 3  cups  of  Demarara  sugar,  i  cup  of  molasses,  j  cup  of 
water,  i  oz,  of  butter,  J  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar, 


1076  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  butter  and  mo- 
lasses, and  when  boiling  stir  in  the  cream  of  tartar.  Continue  the 
cooking  until  the  syrup  reaches  the  "  crack  "  degree,  then  turn  on  to 
an  oiled  slab.  When  cool  enough  to  handle,  pull  it  over  an  oiled  hook, 
and  when  firm  cut  into  squares. 

2292.— CANDIED  CHESTNUTS. 

Ingredients. — Chestnuts,  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  shells  of  the  chestnuts,  place  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  of  boiling  water,  boil  for  about  10  minutes,  then  drain  and  skin 
them.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  boil  until 
tender  but  not  broken,  and  let  them  cool.  Allow  \  a  pint  of  water 
to  each  Ib.  of  sugar,  boil  to  the  "  crack  "  degree,  then  dip  in  the  chest- 
nuts one  at  a  time,  and  place  them  on  an  oiled  slab. 

2293.— CANDY    KISSES,    BROWN  ALMOND. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  Demerara  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  glucose,  2  ozs.  of 
almonds,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  caramel  essence. 

Method. — Blanch  and  chop  the  almonds  coarsely,  then  bake  them  in 
the  oven  until  golden-brown.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the 
butter  and  glucose,  and  boil  to  the  "  large  ball  "  degree.  Remove 
the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  stir  in  caramel  essence  to  taste,  press  the 
syrup  against  the  sides  of  the  pan  by  means  of  a  spatula  or  wooden 
spoon,  to  give  the  candy  a  grained  appearance,  and  when  it  becomes 
cloudy  stir  in  the  prepared  almonds.  When  sufficiently  firm,  pile  small 
portions  on  an  oiled  slab,  using  a  teaspoon  for  the  purpose.  Chopped 
hazel  nuts  or  cocoanut  may  be  substituted  for  the  almonds. 

2294.— CANDY  KISSES,  WHITE  ALMOND. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  glucose,  2  ozs.  of  almonds, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Blanch  and  chop  the  almonds  and  dry  them  thoroughly. 
Prepare  the  syrup  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  substituting 
vanilla  essence  for  the  caramel  flavouring. 

2295.— CANDIED  PEEL. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  candied  peel,  viz.  citron,  lemon,  and  orange, 
the  mode  of  preparation  being  in  all  cases  practically  the  same.  The 
rinds  of  sound  young  fruit  are  cut  lengthwise  in  halves,  freed  from 
pulp,  boiled  in  water  until  soft,  and  afterwards  suspended  in  strong  cold 
syrup  until  they  become  semi-transparent.  Finally,  they  are  slowly 
dried  in  a  stove  or  in  a  current  of  hot  air. 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  1077 

2296.— CANDIED  POPCORN. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  popped  corn,  |  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i  02.  of 
butter,  3  tablespoonf u  Is  of  water. 

Method. — To  prepare  the  popped  corn,  put  the  Indian  maize*mto  a 
wire  sieve  and  shake  it  gently  over  a  slow  fire  until  it  pops.  Place  the 
sugar,  butter  and  water  in  a  stewpan,  boil  to  the  "  small  ball  "  c< 
add  the  prepared  corn,  and  stir  briskly  until  the  corn  is  completely 
coated.  Remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  continue  stirring  until  cool, 
to  prevent  the  corn  sticking  together. 

2297.— CANDY,  OR  THREAD  SUGAR.     (See  Boiling 
Sugar,  No.  2264.) 

2298.— CANDY  TWIST. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  Demerara  sugar,  \  a  pint  of  water,  caramel 
colouring,  almond  essence. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  boil  to  the  "  crack  " 
degree,  then  colour  and  flavour  to  taste.  Pour  the  syrup  on  to  an  oiled 
slab,  and  as  the  edges  cool  fold  them  over.  When  the  whole  is  cool 
enough  to  handle  pull  it  over  the  candy-hook,  cut  it  into  6-inch  lengths, 
and  twist  them  into  a  spiral  form.  If  preferred,  white  granulated 
sugar  may  be  substituted,  and  the  candy  flavoured  with  vanilla,  or 
;y  be  coloured  red  and  flavoured  with  raspberry. 

2299.— CARAMELS,  CHOCOLATE. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  finely-grated  vanilla  chocolate,  i  Ib.  of  best  loaf 
sugar,  |  a  pint  of  cream,  \  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  milk,  add  the  cream  and 
bring  slowly  to  boiling  point.  Dissolve  the  chocolate  in  the 
smallest  possible  quantity  of  hot  water,  stir  it  into  the  syrup,  and  boil 
very  gently  until  a  little,  dropped  into  cold  water,  at  once  hardens  and 
snaps  easily.  Pour  it  on  to  an  oiled  slab  into  a  square  formed  by  bars, 
or,  failing  these,  into  an  oiled  tin.  When  cold,  cut  into  squares  with 
a  caramel  cutter,  or  a  buttered  knife,  and  wrap  each  piece  in  wax 
paper. 

2300.— CARAMELS,  CHOCOLATE.  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  grated  chocolate,  2  ozs.  of 
glucose,  i  oz.  of  butter,  ^  of  a  gill  of  cream,  acetic  acid. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  glucose,  and  boil 
to  280°.  Stir  in  the  cream,  butter  and  chocolate,  replace  on  the  fire, 
and  reboil  to  the  same  temperature.  Remove  from  the  fire,  stir  in 
2  drops  of  acetic  acid,  and  pour  into  a  well-oiled  tin.  When  cold, 
mark  with  a  caramel  cutter,  and  cut  into  squares. 


1078  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2301.— CARAMELS,  CHOCOLATE,  AMERICAN. 

Ingredients. — i  teaspoonful  of  golden  syrup,  i  teacupful  of  finely- 
grated  chocolate,  i  teacupful  of  brown  sugar,  i  teacupful  of  milk, 
i  oz.  dfbutter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  glycerine,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla 
essence. 

Method. — Place  the  syrup,  butter,  sugar  and  milk  in  a  stewpan,  bring 
to  boiling  point,  and  add  the  glycerine.  Boil  rapidly  for  about  10 
minutes,  then  stir  in  the  chocolate,  replace  the  stewpan  on  the  fire, 
and  continue  the  boiling  until,  when  a  little  is  dropped  into  cold  water, 
a  hard  ball  is  immediately  formed.  Turn  into  well-buttered  or  oiled 
tins,  allow  the  preparation  to  remain  until  cold,  then  mark  with  a 
caramel  cutter,  and  cut  into  squares. 

2302.— CARAMELS,  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  glucose,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i£  gills 
of  water,  i  gill  of  cream,  caramel  essence. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  glucose,  and  boil 
to  265°.  Then  add  the  butter  and  cream,  and  stir  until  the  mixture 
again  registers  265°.  Remove  from  the  fire,  flavour  to  taste,  and  pour 
on  to  a  well-oiled  tin.  When  sufficiently  firm  mark  with  a  caramel 
cutter,  and  when  cold  cut  into  squares,  and  wrap  them  in  wax  paper. 

2303.— CARAMELS,  RASPBERRY. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  granulated  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  a  pint  of 
cream,  £  a  pint  of  water,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  glucose,  raspberry  essence, 
cherry-red  colouring  or  carmine. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  with  the  water  into  a  stewpan;  when  dis- 
solved stir  in  the  glucose,  and  boil  to  the  "  ball  "  degree.  Add  the 
cream  and  the  butter  in  small  pieces,  stir  and  boil  until  the  syrup 
reaches  the  "  crack  "  degree,  then  transfer  the  stewpan  at  once  to  a 
bowl  of  cold  water,  to  arrest  further  cooking.  Colour  and  flavour  to 
taste,  pour  between  bars  on  an  oiled  slab  or  into  an  oiled  tin,  and  when 
sufficiently  cool,  cut  into  small  squares  by  means  of  a  caramel  cutter 
or  a  slightly  buttered  knife,  and  wrap  each  caramel  in  wax  paper. 


2304.— CARAMELS  STRAWBERRY. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  best  lump  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  honey,  £  of  an  oz.  of 
butter,  ^  of  a  pint  of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  strawberry  essence, 
cherry-red  colouring  or  carmine. 

Method. — Place  the  sugar  in  a  copper  sugar  boiler  or  stewpan,  add 
the  water,  and  when  dissolved  stir  in  the  honey,  cream  and  butter. 
Boil  to  the  "  crack,"  then  stir  in  the  flavouring  essence  and  colouring 
ingredient,  and  pour  on  to  an  oiled  slab.  When  set,  cut  into  small 


DESSERT. 


Bananas,  Nectarines  and  Cherries.       2.    Grapes,  Apple  and  Strawberries. 
7.? 


A  SUPPER  TABLE  FOR  TWO  PERSONS* 


74 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  1079 

by  means  of  a  caramel  cutter  or  buttered  knife,  and  wrap 
each  caramel  in  wax  paper. 

2305.  —CARAMELS,  WRAPPED. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,   i   oz.  of  butter,  4  ozs.  of  glucose, 
£  of  a  pint  of  water,  £  a  gill  of  cream,  acetic  acid,  vanilla  essence. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  glucose,  and  lx>il 
•  .     Stir  in  the  cream  and  butter,  re-heat  to  the  same  temperature, 
then  remove  the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  and  add  2  drops  of  acetic  acid 
vanilla  essence  to  taste.     Turn  into  an  oiled  tin;  when  sufficiently 
firm   mark    with   a   caramel   cutter,   and    when  cold  cut  into  squai 
p  them  in  wax  paper. 

2306.  CHOCOLATE  ALMONDS. 

Ingredients.  -Almonds  blanched  and  dried,  chocolate,  vanilla  essence. 
Method. — Dissolve  the  chocolate  in  t  !o  quant  i 

:r   it   to   taste   with    vanilla  essence.     Dip  each 
\\  <m  an  oiled  slab  or  plates  to  I 

2307.  CHOCOLATE  PRALINES.  • 
Ingredients. — }  a  Ib.  of  icing  sugar,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  almonds  or  Bare 

Method^     i  .-.linoiuls  until  brown,  or,  \\hen 

.  bake  the  nuts  until  the  ins: 
brnv.  ••  used,  tl 

chopped  ar.     Place  the  sm 

i>er  sugar  boiler  or  stewpan.  WITHOUT  WATER,  cook  over  th« 

tir  in  the  almonds,  and  pour  the  whole  on 

«1  pound  to  a  powder,  mix  with  it  sufficient 

I  m  warm  water  to  form  a  paste,  and  turn  it  into  a 

tin  "Id  cut  into  small  squares,  and  coat  with  dissolved  choco- 

2308.-  CHOCOLATE  STICKS. 

Ingredients.      I  a  Ib.  <>t  aim.  d  and  chopped,  10  ozs.  of 

2  ozs.  oi  rated  chocolate,  the  whites  of  2  small 

Method.  sugar  through  a  t  and  pound  finely  any 

may  be.     Dry  the  almonds  thoroughly  in  a  cool 
to  a  paste,  adding  the  sugar  gradually,  then  add  t 
!  whites  of  egg>.     \\  !,.-n  well -mixed,  turn  on  to  a  board  or 
roll  out  to  about  $  of  an  in«  h  in  thickm-^.  and  cut 
,in  inch  wid.  .      I  I     e  them    on  a 
1   i  ing,  and 
en  for  ab<  >ur. 


io8o  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2309.— CLOVE  DROPS. 

Ingredients. — Essence  of  cloves,  a  few  drops  of  acetic  acid,  i  Ib.  of  loaf 
sugar,  %  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  the  ball  degree,  add  a  few  drops 
of  acetic  acid,  and  clove  essence  to  taste.  Grain  the  syrup  by  pressing 
it  against  the  sides  of  the  pan  with  the  back  of  the  spoon,  let  it  cool 
slightly,  then  turn  it  on  to  an  oiled  sheet.  Mark  it  in  small  squares 
with  the  back  of  a  knife,  and  separate  them  when  cold. 

2310.— COCOANUT  BARS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  freshly  grated  or  desiccated  cocoanut,  3  Ibs.  of 
loaf  sugar,  f  of  a  Ib.  of  glucose,  i^  pints  of  water,  vanilla  essence, 
raspberry  essence,  cherry-red  colouring  or  carmine. 

Method. — Cut  grease-proof  paper  to  fit  the  sides  and  bottom  of  a 
shallow  box,  or  tin  with  straight  sides,  and  arrange  it  carefully.  Dis- 
solve the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  glucose,  and  boil  to  the  "  ball  " 
degree.  Pour  half  the  syrup  into  another  stewpan,  and  keep  it  warm. 
Flavour  the  remainder  to  taste  with  the  raspberry  essence,  and  add 
colouring  drop  by  drop  until  a  pale  pink  colour  is  obtained.  Grain 
this  pink  syrup  by  working  it  against  the  sides  of  the  pan;  when  cloudy, 
stir  in  half  the  cocoanut  and  pour  the  mixture  into  the  prepaid  box 
or  tin.  Flavour  the  other  portion  with  vanilla  essence,  grain  it  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  pink  syrup,  and  when  cloudy  add  the  remainder 
of  the  cocoanut  and  pour  it  on  the  top  of  the  pink  ice.  When  quite 
cold  and  set,  turn  out  of  the  box,  and  cut  into  slices. 

23II.  —COCOANUT  BARS.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  best  loaf  sugar,  \  a  Ib.  of  freshly-grated  or  desic- 
cated cocoanut,  \  a  pint  of  water,  vanilla  essence,  carmine  or  cochineal. 

Method. — Line  a  shallow  tin  with  grease-proof  paper.  Boil  the  sugar 
and  water  to  the  "  small  ball  "  degree,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire, 
add  the  cocoanut,  and  flavour  to  taste.  Let  it  cool  a  little,  then  pour 
\  into  the  prepared  tin,  and  stand  the  vessel  containing  the  remainder 
in  hot  water,  to  prevent  it  setting.  As  soon  as  the  portion  in  the  tin 
is  set,  add  a  few  drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal  to  the  preparation  in  the 
stewpan,  and  pour  it  over  the  ice  in  the  tin.  When  cold  turn  out  and 
cut  into  bars. 

2312.— COCOANUT  CANDY. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  Demarara  sugar,  f-  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  medium- 
sized  cocoanut. 

Method.— Remove  the  shell  and  rind  from  the  cocoanut,  and  slice 
it  thinly.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  boil  to  the  "  large  ball  " 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  1081 

,  then  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  grain  the  syrup  by 

•\^  it  with  the  spatula  again-  les  of  the  stewpan.     As  soon 

.tiire  begins  to  grow  cloudy  add  the  sliced  cocoanut,  stir  until 

thick,  then  pour  on  to  an  oiled  tin.     When  sufficiently  firm  mark 

juares  or  oblongs,  and  when  perfectly  cold  and  firm  divui 

White  candy  may  be  made  by  substituting  white  sugar  for 

23 1 3.- COCOANUT  MERINGUE  ROCKS. 

Ingredients.     \   .1  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  desiccated  cocoanut, 
4  \\hiu-s  of  eggs,  \.inill.i  ess< 

Method. — Pass  the  sugar  through  a  fine  sieve.     Put  the  whites  of 
ith  a  good  pinch  of  salt  into  a  copper  bowl  or  large  basin 
in-ill  to  .1  \.  ry  stiff  froth.  in  as  lightly  as  possil 

i-ociKinut.  and  add  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essent  i .     H.i\r 

tin,  buttered  and  dredged  lightly  with  flour,  and  upon 

in  dessertspoonfuls,  about  i  inch  apart.     Sprinkle 

•  hopped  pistachios,  and   the  remain d-r   with 

coarse  granulated  sugar.     Bake  in  a  slow  <>  .  30  to  40  minutes. 

2314.— COCOANUT  TOFFEE. 

Ingredients. — J  of  a  Ib.  of  granulated  sugar,  £  a  Ib.  of  Dcmcrara 

•  o.iimt .  I  of  a  Ib.  of  glucose,  1}  gills  of  \ 

Method.     I >    ^olve  the  sugar  in  :,  add  the  glucose,  anil 

rack  "  degree.     Remove  the  stewpan  from  ti 
cocoanut,  and  boil  to  thr  \dd  a  few  drops  of 

<  essence,  and  pour  on  to  oiled  or  buttered  tins, 

2315.     COLOURING    FOR    CONFECTIONERY, 
JELLIES,  ETC. 

colourings  used  in  <xx>  'cctionery  art 

i  can  be  bought  -pared.     Harmless 

.  1  always  be  em  pi-  v  be  easily 

ic  directions  >ubjoined  recipes. 

Red   Colouring.     I  oil  \  a  pint  ot  water  and  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar  to  a 
it  cool.     Pound  }  an  oz.  of  carmine  until  smooth,  stir 

minutes,  and  strain.     '• 
\  a  teaspoon  i  ul  of  sal-ammoniac,  bottle  the  mixtur- 

'.  Colouring  1   thoroughly  dry  some  spinach,  por. 

ii  in  a 
A-pan,  cook  o\  ;om  it 


io82        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

becomes  curdled,  then  strain  through  a  hair  seive.     Remove  the  puree 
from  the  sieve,  and  use  as  required. 

Yellow  Colouring. — Simmer  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  3  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
|  of  an  oz.  of  alum,  and  £  of  an  oz.  of  Turkish  saffron  for  15  minutes, 
then  strain  until  clear.  When  cold,  add  rather  more  than  £  of  a  pint 
of  spirits  of  wine,  and  bottle  the  mixture  for  use. 

2316.—  EVERTON  TOFFEE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  Demarara  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  J  of  a  pint  of 
water,  a  good  pinch  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  cream  of  tartar, 
and  boil  to  the  "  hard  ball"  degree.  Remove  the  stewpan  from  the 
fire,  add  the  butter  in  small  pieces,  then  boil  to  the  "  crack  "  degree. 
Pour  on  to  buttered  or  oiled  tins;  when  sufficiently  set,  mark  into 
squares  or  oblongs,  and  when  quite  cold  divide  and  wrap  each  piece 
first  in  wax  paper  and  afterwards  in  tin  foil. 

23I7._FONDANT  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  loaf  or  granulated  cane  sugar,  I  dessertspoonful 
of  glucose,  i£  gills  of  water,  flavourings,  colourings. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  glucose,  bring 
to  the  boil  quickly,  and  boil  until  the  syrup  registers  240°  ("  small 
ball  ").  Pour  on  to  an  oiled  or  wetted  slab,  let  it  cool  slightly  (for  if 
worked  at  its  greatest  heat  it  will  grain),  and  work  it  with  a  spatula, 
keeping  the  mass  as  much  as  possible  together  with  a  scraper  held  in 
the  left  hand.  When  the  paste  has  become  sufficiently  cool,  knead  it 
well  with  the  hands.  When  perfectly  smooth,  divide  into  2  or  3  por- 
tions, colour,  flavour,  and  knead  again  separately,  and  use  as  required. 

2318.— FONDANT  CREAM.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  pint  of  cold  water,  |  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar,  colouring  and  flavouring  ingredients. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  cream  of  tartar, 
and  boil  to  the  "  small  ball  "  degree.  Pour  the  syrup  into  a  basin, 
let  it  remain  until  lukewarm,  then  stir  well  with  a  spatula  until  white 
and  slightly  hardened.  Now  turn  the  paste  on  to  a  slab  or  large  dish, 
and  knead  it  with  the  hands  until  perfectly  smooth.  Flavour  and  colour 
to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 

23I9._FONDANT  CREAM  SQUARES. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  fondant  cream,  carmine,  sap  green  colouring, 
essence  of  pineapple,  raspberry  and  vanilla. 

Method. — Make  the  fondant  according  to  either  of  the  preceding 
recipes,  and  divide  it  into  3  equal  portions.  Colour  i  portion  green, 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  1083 

and  flavour  it  with  vanilla;  add  a  few  drops  of  carmine  to  the  second 
portion,  and  flavour  it  with  raspberry;  flavour  the  remaining  portion 
with  pineapple.  Roll  out  into  3  squares  of  uniform  size  and  thick- 
ness, place  them  one  above  the  other,  and  press  lightly  together  with  a 
rolling  pin.  Let  the  paste  stand  for  at  least  12  hours,  then  cut  up  into 
small  squares.  Roll  in  finely-chopped  dried  almonds  or  desiccated 
cocoanut,  or  coat  with  chocolate.  If  preferred,  they  may  be  crystal- 
lized by  dipping  in  syrup  prepared  as  below. 

2320.— FONDANTS,  LIQUID. 

Ingredients. — 2  Iks.  of  cane  loaf  sugar,   i£  gills  of  water,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  glucose,  colouring  and  flavouring  to  taste. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  bring  to  boiling  point,  add 

icose,  and  boil  to  the  "  soft  ball  "  degree.     Turn  on  to  a  marble 

slab,  work  well  with  a  spatula  until  white,  then  knead  with  the  hands 

until  perfectly  smooth.     Colour  and  flavour  to  taste,  put  a  small  portion 

into  a  cup,  stand  the  cup  in  a  tin  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  the 

fondant  has  the  appearance  of  thick  cream.     Any  kind  of  fruit  or  nuts 

>ne  by  one  be  dipped  into  the  liquid  fondant;  care  should  be  taken 

to  coat  them  thoroughly;  cherries,  grapes,  etc.,  may  be  held  by  tlu 

but  nuts  must  be  immersed  and  lifted  out  with  a  ring  fork.     During  the 

process  the  fondant  must  be  kept  warm  to  prevent  it  hardening. 

2321.— FONDANTS,  SYRUP  FOR  CRYSTALLISING. 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  pint  of  cold  water. 
Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  then  boil  it  to  the  "  small 
1  "  degree.      Pour  the  syrup  into  a  basin,  cover  with  a  d.unp 
cloth,  and  let  it  remain  until  perfectly  cold.  Place  the  prepared  fond- 
»n  a  crystallizing  tray  or  drainer,  pour  the  syrup  over,  cover  the 
ole  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  let   it   stand  in  a  rather  warm  dry 
from  9  to  10  hours.     Drain  off  the  syrup,  let  the  fondants  dry 
•uglily,  and  pack  in  air-tight  boxes. 


aTUS 


2322.— FONDANTS,  WALNUT. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  fondant  cream,  18  dried  walnuts,  green  colour- 
ing, pineapple  essence. 

Method.  ?\Iakc  the  fondant  cream  as  directed,  colour  it  pale  green, 
and  flavour  it  to  taste  with  pineapple  essence.  Divide  into  is  npul 
portion-,  torm  them  first  into  balls,  then  press  them  into  oval  * 

line  shape  and  size  as  the  walnuts.     Place  the  cakes  between  2 
of  walnuts,  press  firmly  together,  and  let  them  harden  in  a  dry 
Uiiny  warm  place. 


1084  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2323.— GINGER  TOFFEE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  Demerara  sugar,  i  oz.  of  ground  ginger,  %  a  pint 
of  water. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  bring  gently  to  boiling 
point,  stirring  occasionally  in  the  early  part  of  the  process,  and  con- 
tinuously when  nearing  boiling  point.  When  the  syrup  has  reached 
the  "  ball  "  degree,  add  the  ginger,  replace  on  the  fire,  stir  until  it  begins 
to  thicken,  then  pour  into  a  tin  lined  with  well-buttered  paper.  When 
cold,  cut  into  diamonds  and  squares. 

2324.— HARD  GLAZE. 

Ingredients. — $•  a  Ib.  of  the  best  loaf  sugar,  £  a  gill  of  water,  fresh  or 
candied  fruit. 

Method. — Fresh  fruit  must  be  dried  thoroughly;  candied  fruit  must  be 
washed  free  from  sugar  and  afterwards  dried.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in 
the  water,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  and  boil  to  the  "  small 
crack  "  degree.  Plunge  the  stewpan  into  cold  water,  to  prevent  the 
preparation  becoming  overcooked,  and  at  once  dip  in  the  prepared 
fruit  one  by  one.  Place  them  on  an  oiled  tin  until  cold,  then  transfer 
to  sheets  of  white  paper. 

2325. — ICED  FRUIT.       (See  No.  2200,  Ices,  Chapter 
XXXIII.) 

2326.— LEMON  AND  ACID  DROPS. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  4-  a  pint  of  water,  ^a  teaspoonful  of 
cream  of  tartar,  essence  of  lemon,  i  dessertspoonful  of  tartaric  acid. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar,  water,  and  cream  of  tartar  together  until 
the  mixture  acquires  a  pale  yellow  tinge,  add  essence  of  lemon  to  taste, 
and  turn  the  preparation  on  to  an  oiled  slab.  Sprinkle  on  the  tartaric 
acid,  work  it  well  in,  and,  as  soon  as  it  is  cool  enough  to  handle,  form 
into  thin  rolls,  cut  off  short  pieces  with  the  scissors,  and  roll  into  shape 
under  the  hand.  Coat  with  sifted  sugar,  dry  well,  and  afterwards  store 
in  an  airtight  tin. 

2327.— MACAROONS. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  almonds,  blanched  and  coarsely-chopped, 
i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  5  or  6  whites  of  eggs,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  i 
lemon. 

Method. — Dry  the  almonds  thoroughly  in  a  cool  oven,  and  pound  them 
finely,  adding  the  whites  of  eggs  gradually.  When  perfectly  smooth 
add  the  sugar  and  lemon-rind,  turn  the  mixture  into  a  stewpan,  and 
stir  it  over  a  moderate  fire  until  lukewarm.  Have  ready  a  baking- tin 
covered  with  wafer  paper,  arrange  the  mixture  quickly  in  small  round 
portions,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  1085 

2328.— MACAROONS.         (Another   Method.) 

Ingredients. — 9  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  8  ozs.  of  almonds,  blanched  and 
coarsely-chopped,  i£  ozs.  of  fine  flour,  the  whites  of  3  eggs,  orange- 
flower  water. 

Method. — Dry  the  almonds  in  a  cool  oven,  pound  them  to  a  paste, 
adding  the  whites  of  eggs  gradually.  When  quite  smooth,  add  the 
flour,  sugar  and  a  few  drops  of  orange-flower  water.  Turn  the  pre- 
paration into  a  bag  or  paper  cornet,  and  force  out  very  small  round 
portions  on  to  a  tin  covered  with  wafer  paper.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

2329.— MARASCHINO  CREAM  BON-BONS. 

Ingredients. — For  the  centres:  2  ozs.  of  gum  arabic,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
Maraschino,  icing  sugar,  i  gill  of  hot  water.  For  coating:  i-J  Ibs.  of 
icing  sugar  (about),  2  whites  of  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
coffee  essence,  caramel. 

Method. — Pass  the  sugar  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Soak  the  gum 
arabic  in  the  gill  of  hot  water,  strain,  add  the  Maraschino  and  as  much 
-ugar  as  will  form  a  paste  firm  enough  to  be  cut  yet  sufficiently 
to  pass  readily  through  the  forcer,  and  work  until  elastic.  I'm 
it  into  a  paper  cornet  or  forcing-bag,  and  as  it  i^  pressed  out,  cut  it 
into  small  pieces,  and  let  them  drop  on  to  a  paper  liberally  dredged 
with  icing  sugar.  Allow  these  centres  to  remain  in  a  warm  place  until 
they  harden  slightly.  Add  the  lemon-juice  and  whites  of  eggs  gradually 
to  about  |  of  a  Ib.  of  icing  sugar,  work  until  perfectly  smooth,  then 
flavour  to  taste  with  coffee  essence,  and  colour  nut-brown  with  caramel. 
Dip  in  the  centres  one  by  one,  and  let  them  remain  on  a  wire  tray  until 
dry. 

— Cura9oa  or    any  other    liqueur,   orange-flower   water,   and   many 
-sences,  may  be  substituted  for  Maraschino,  the  bon-bons  of  course 

taking  their  name  from  the  flavouring  ingredient  n 

2330.— MARSH  MALLOWS. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  icing  sugar,  |  of  a  Ib.  of  gum  arabic,  3  whites 

:s,  \  a  pint  of  water,  caramel  essence. 

Method. — Soak  the  gum  arabic  in  the  water  until  soft,  then  heat 

gently   until   dissolved,   and  strain   it    through   fine  muslin.     Return 

stewpan,  add  the  sugar,  and  when  dissolved,  stir  in  the  whites 

of  eggs,  and  whisk  until  the  mixture  is  quite  stiff.     Flavour  to  taste, 

.inrl  let  it  remain  for  about  10  hours.     When  ready,  cut  into  small 

squares,  and  dredge  them  liberally  with  icing  sugar. 

2331.— MARZIPAN. 

Ingredients—  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  12  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  3  ozs.  of 
sifted  icing  sugar,  2  whites  of  eggs,  i£  gills  of  water. 


HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  240°  F.,  then  draw  the  sugar 
boiler  or  pan  aside,  and  when  the  syrup  has  cooled  slightly  add  the 
almonds  and  whites  of  eggs.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  turn  on  to  a  slab,  stir  in  the  icing  sugar,  and  work  with 
a  spatula  until  the  preparation  is  cool  enough  to  handle.  Knead  until 
perfectly  smooth,  add  flavouring  to  taste,  and  mould  into  desired 
shapes. 

2332.— MARZIPAN,  GERMAN. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  almonds,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  £  a  Ib.  of 
sifted  icing  sugar,  £  of  a  gill  of  orange  flower  water. 

Method. — Blanch  and  shred  the  almonds  finely,  and  pound  them 
to  a  paste  with  the  orange  flower  water.  Put  the  castor  sugar  and 
pounded  almonds  into  a  stewpan  placed  in  a  tin  of  boiling  water,  and 
stir  until  the  preparation,  when  touched,  does  not  stick  to  the  fingers. 
Turn  on  to  a  slab,  add  the  icing  sugar,  work  with  a  spatula  until  cool 
enough  to  handle,  then  knead  until  perfectly  smooth.  Colour  and 
flavour  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 


2333.— MARZIPAN  SLICES. 

Ingredients. — Marzipan  No.  -^331,  Vanilla,  raspberry  and  coffee 
essences,  brown,  red  and  green  colouring  substances. 

Method. — Divide  the  marzipan  into  3  equal  portions,  and  colour 
them  brown,  red  and  green.  Flavour  the  brown  with  coffee  essence, 
the  red  with  raspberry,  and  the  green  with  vanilla.  Roll  the  3  pieces 
out  to  a  uniform  shape,  and  about  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Brush 
the  red  piece  over  with  water,  cover  with  the  green  piece,  brush  lightly 
over  with  water,  and  lay  the  brown  marzipan  on  the  top.  Press  firmly 
with  the  rolling  pin  to  make  the  parts  adhere,  brush  the  brown  surface 
lightly  over  with  water,  cover  with  water  paper,  and  roll  gently  until 
it  becomes  firmly  attached.  Turn  the  marzipan  over,  moisten  and 
cover  with  paper,  and  roll  as  before  until  the  paper  adheres.  When 
dry  and  set,  cut  the  marzipan  into  narrow  strips,  and  each  strip  into 
diamonds  or  squares. 

2334-— NOUGAT. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  icing  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  honey,  8  ozs.  of  almonds, 
2  whites  of  eggs,  wafer  paper. 

Method. — Blanch  and  dry  the  almonds  thoroughly.  Line  a  box 
of  suitable  size  first  with  white  paper  and  then  with  wafer  paper,  both 
of  which  must  be  cut  to  fit  exactly.  Put  the  sugar,  honey  and  whites 
of  eggs  into  a  copper  sugar  boiler  or  pan,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
until  the  mixture  becomes  thick  and  white.  Drop  a  little  into  cold 
water;  if  it  at  once  hardens,  remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  the 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  :   •- 


almonds.    Dredge  the  slab  with  icing  sugar,  torn  on  to  it  the 

and  form  into  a  balL     Press  into  the  prepared  box,  cover  with  paper, 

let  it  remain  under  pressure  until  cold,  then  cut  up  into  sqi 


2335  —NOUGAT.     (Another  Method.) 

liH.i«il«uli — £  of  a  Ib.  of  best  castor  sugar,  £  a  Ib.  of  almonds,  i 
dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice. 

BeCM. — Blanch  and  chop  the  almonds  coarsely,  dry  them  thor- 
oughly in  the  oven,  but  do  not  let  them  brown.  Place  the  sugar 
and  lemon-juice  in  a  copper  sugar  bofler  or  fttewpaa,  stir  with  a  spatula 
or  wooden  spoon  until  it  acquires  a  pale  brown  colour,  and  add  the 
prepared  almond*.  Torn  on  to  an  oiled  slab,  press  it  out  with  a  hot  wet 
knife,  mark  into  small  squares,  and  when  cold  break  them  apart. 

2336.— NOUGAT  BASKET 

Injrtnvauv— £  of  a  Ib.  of  best  castor  sugar,  $  a  Ib.  of  almonds,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon- juice. 

Mitfcnl — Prepare  the  nougat  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  and  keep 
it  warm.  Take  a  small  quantity  at  a  time,  knead  and  roll  it  out  thinly, 
mould  it  into  the  desired  shape,  and  trim  the  edges  with  a  pair  of  scissors. 
Handles  may  be  made  of  fine  strips  of  nougat;  they  should  be  moulded 
on  a  round  ruler,  a  rolling-pin,  or  anything  of  suitable  sice  aad  shape, 
but  whatever  is  used,  it  should  first  be  covered  with  oiled  or  buttered 
paper.  The  ends,  when  slightly  warmed,  are  easfly  attached  to  the 
baskets.  Thy*  fMEPgy*  may  also  be  i*fr4  for  *"y**ic  mi*i"lft*,  which  «*n?fiM 
be  previously  oiled. 

2337.     ORANGE  BISCUITS. 

lagruiisflls.— 4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  4  ocs.  of  butter,  i  ox.  of  candied 
orange  peel  finely  shredded,  2  oa.  of  flour,  4  eggs.  2  or  3  oranges,  < 


. — Rub  the  sugar  on  the  rind  of  the  orange,  and 
found  it  finely.  Cream  the  butter,  add  first  the  sugar,  then  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  and  when  well  mixed,  stir  in  bghtly  the  candied  orange  peel, 
flour ,  and  stiffly- whisked  whites  of  eggs.  Turn  the  mixture  into  well 
butleied  becuit  moulds,  sprinkle  with  castor  sugar,  and  bake  slowly 
until  set. 

lor  i  large  dish. 

2338.— ORANGE  DROPS. 

I*gr»4ituts. — 2  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  pint  of  water,  3  or  4  oranges,  saffron. 

Mrtfci*.— Rub  some  of  the  sugar  on  the  oranges  to  obtain  the  zest. 

Boil  all  tite  sugar  and  the  water  to  the  "  small  crack/'  acd  add  a  fettle 


io88  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

saffron.  Cool  slightly,  then  pour  on  to  an  oiled  slab,  mark  off  into  small 
squares,  and  break  them  asunder  when  cold.  Or,  use  a  sugar  boiler 
with  a  spout,  and  drop  the  preparation  in  small  pieces  :  this  process 
may  be  aided  by  using  an  oiled  wire  or  knife.  Let  the  drops  remain 
in  a  drying  closet  for  about  2  hours,  and  afterwards  store  them  in  an 
airtight  box. 

2339.— ORANGES,  ICED.  (See  Ices,  Chapter  XXXIII.) 
2340.— PINEAPPLE  SNOW  CANDY. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  clarified  syrup  No.  2231,  i  white  of  egg,  pine- 
apple essence,  saffron-yellow  colouring,  i  tablespoonf ul  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Boil  the  prepared  syrup  to  the  "  crack  "  degree,  and  add 
a  few  drops  of  saffron-yellow.  Meanwhile  whip  the  white  of  egg  stiffly 
and  add  to  it  the  castor  sugar  and  a  few  drops  of  pineapple  essence. 
Line  some  moulds  or  small  tins  with  oiled  paper,  and  sprinkle  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  them  liberally  with  icing  or  castor  sugar.  As  soon 
as  the  syrup  is  sufficiently  boiled,  plunge  the  stewpan  into  cold  water 
to  arrest  further  cooking,  and  let  it  cool  slightly,  then  pour  it  on  the 
white  of  egg  and  sugar  preparation,  and  stir  briskly  to  a  froth.  When 
ready,  pour  into  the  prepared  moulds,  and  turn  out  when  perfectly  set. 
The  flavour  and  colour  may  be  varied  as  desired,  the  candy  of  course 
taking  its  name  from  the  flavouring  ingredient. 

2341.— RASPBERRY    CREAM    BON-BONS. 

Ingredients. — For  the  centres:  2  ozs.  of  gum  arabic,  icing  sugar, 
carmine,  essence  of  raspberry.  For  coating:  4  ozs.  of  unsweetened, 
finely-grated  chocolate,  2  whites  of  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
i£  Ibs.  of  best  icing  sugar  (about). 

Method. — Pass  the  sugar  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Soak  the  gum 
arabic  in  i  gill  of  hot  water,  strain,  colour  and  flavour  to  taste,  stir 
in  gradually  as  much  icing  sugar  as  will  form  a  paste  firm  enough  to 
be  cut,  yet  moist  enough  to  pass  readily  through  the  piping  tube,  and 
work  it  well.  Have  ready  a  paper  cornet  with  a  tube  attached,  fill 
with  the  preparation,  press  out,  cut  off  into  small  pieces,  and  let  them 
fall  on  to  a  paper  covered  thickly  with  icing  sugar.  Let  the  bon-bons 
remain  in  a  warm  place  while  the  coating  is  being  prepared,  in  order 
that  they  may  slightly  harden.  Put  about  £  of  a  Ib.  of  icing  sugar  into 
a  basin,  add  the  lemon-juice  and  whites  of  eggs  gradually,  and  work 
until  perfectly  smooth.  Put  the  chocolate  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
warm  water  into  a  basin,  place  it  over  a  small  saucepan  of  boiling  water, 
and  stir  until  dissolved,  and  when  cool,  add  it  to  the  white  of  egg  and 
sugar  preparation.  Mix  thoroughly,  dip  in  the  bon-bons  one  by  one, 
place  on  a  wire  tray,  and  allow  them  to  dry. 


RECIPHS  FOR  SWEETMEATS 
2342. —ROUT  CAKES   OR  PETITS  FOURS. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib  of  almonds,  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  orange-flower 
water. 

Method. — Blanch,  dry  and  pound  the  almonds  finely,  adding  gradually 
a  little  orange-flower  water.  When  reduced  to  a  fine  paste,  put  it 
into  the  stewpan  with  the  sugar,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  dry 
and  when  touched  does  not  adhere  to  the  finger.  Form  into  small 
fancifully  shaped  biscuits,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  cool  oven. 

2343.— SPUN  SUGAR  TRIFLE.       (See  To  Spin  Sugar, 
No.  2276.) 

The  spun  sugar  may  be  used  to  mask  or  garnish  ices,  creams,  trifles 
and  other  cold  sweets. 

2344.— STRAWBERRY  DROPS.        (See  Clove  Drops, 
No.  2309.) 

Substitute  strawberry  essence  for  clove  essence. 

2345.— STRAWBERRIES.  (See  Strawberries  and 

Cherries,  No.  2263.) 

2346.— TOFFEE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  |  of  a  pint  of  water,  a  pinch  of  cream 

tar,  lemon  essence  or  other  flavouring. 

Method.-  Put  the  water  and  sugar  into  a  sugar  boiler  or  stewpan, 

stir  occasionally  until  dissolved,  bring  to  the  boiling  point,  and  add  tho 

of  tartar.     Boil  to  the  "  little  crack  "  degree  (310°),  pour  into 

an  oiled  tin,  allo     it  to  cool  slightly,  then  mark  off  into  diamonds  or 

squares  with  a  knife,  and  when  cold  divide  into  sections  thus  formed. 

2347.— TOFFEE,  FRENCH. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  golden  syrup,  I  of  a  Ib.  of  granulated  sugar, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  cocoanut,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  almonds,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  egg. 

Method. — Put  the  golden  syrup  and  sugar  into  a  copper  sugar  boiler 

..  and  boil  to  the  "  large  crack  "  degree  (see  p.  1071 ).     Add  the 

almonds  previously   blanched    and  chopped  coarsely,   the  cocoanut 

vinegar,  lemon-juice,  and  the  well-beaten  egg.     Replace  on  the  fire, 

bring  to  boiling  point,  and  pour  on  to  wet  tins. 

2348.— TOFFEE,  LEMON. 

Ingredients.— i  Ib.  of  granulated  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  the  juice  of 
i  lemon,  essence  of  lemon. 

N  N 


1090  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  sugar,  boil  up  slowly, 
stir  and  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  and  add  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
continue  boiling  to  the  "  crack  "  degree,  add  the  rest  of  the  lemon- juice 
and  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  and  pour  at  once  on  to  a  buttered 
or  oiled  tin. 

2349.— TOFFEE,  RASPBERRY. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  sugar,  i  gill  of  cold  water,  a  few  drops  of  cochineal, 
a  few  drops  of  raspberry  essence,  a  pinch  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  then  add  the  cream  of 
tartar,  bring  to  boiling  point,  skim  carefully,  and  boil  to  the  "  large 
crack."  Remove  the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  stir  in  the  cochineal  and 
raspberry  essence,  and  pour  into  an  oiled  or  buttered  tin.  Let  it 
harden  stiffly,  then  mark  off  into  sections,  and  divide  them  when  cold. 

2350.— TOFFEE,  RUSSIAN. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  flavouring 
essence. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  cream,  stand  the  stewpan  in  a 
bain-marie  or  tin  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  and  cook  until  the  mixture 
thickens  and  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan.  Remove  from  the  fire,  stir 
in  the  flavouring  essence,  pour  on  to  oiled  or  buttered  tins,  and  when 
cold  cut  into  squares. 

2351.— TOFFEE,  RUSSIAN.       (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of 
cream,  i  tablespoonful  of  red-currant  jelly,  vanilla  or  other  flavouring 
essence. 

Method. — Place  the  sugar,  butter  and  cream  in  a  stewpan,  and  stir 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens  and  leaves  the  sides 
of  the  pan  clean.  Flavour  to  taste,  pour  on  to  an  oiled  or  buttered 
tin,  and  when  cold,  cut  into  squares. 

2352.— TREACLE  CANDY. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  treacle,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  brown  sugar,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  ol  soda. 

Method.— Place  the  treacle,  sugar,  butter  and  vinegar  in  a  large  stew- 
pan,  boil  until  a  few  drops  will  harden  immediately  when  dropped  into 
cold  water,  then  stir  in  the  carbonate  of  soda,  previously  dissolved  in 
a  little  hot  water.  Pour  at  once  into  an  oiled  or  buttered  tin,  turn  the 
edges  in  as  they  cool,  and  as  soon  as  the  whole  can  be  handled  pull  it 
until  white,  draw  it  into  sticks,  and  cut  into  short  lengths. 


RECIPES  FOR  SWEETMEATS  1091 

2353.— TREACLE  TOFFEE. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  treacle,  2  ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
£  a  gill  cf  vinegar,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  essence  of 
almonds. 

Method. — Place  the  sugar  in  a  sugar-boiler  or  stewpan,  pour  on  the 
vinegar,  and  when  dissolved  add  the  treacle  and  boil  to  the  "  large 
ball  "  degree.  Remove  the  pan  from  tho  fire,  add  the  soda  dissolved 
in  a  little  hot  water,  the  butter,  almond  essence  to  taste,  boil  to  the 
"  little  crack  "  degree,  and  pour  into  an  oiled  or  buttered  tin.  When 
partially  set,  mark  into  bars  or  squares,  and  when  quite  firm  break  into 
sections. 

2354.— TURKISH  DELIGHT. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  icing  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  I  oz,  of  K-.if 
gelatine,  2  ozs.  of  almonds  or  pistachios,  i  orange,  i  lemon,  I  table  - 
spoonful  of  rum,  i  gill  of  water. 

Method. — Put  the  gelatine  to  soak  in  cold  water.  Blanch  the  almonds 
or  pistachios,  and  chop  them  coarsely.  Remove  the  rinds  of  the 
•  and  lemon  in  thin  line  strips,  place  them  in  a  copper  sugar 
boiler  or  stewpan  with  the  loaf  sugar,  water,  and  the  strained  juice 
of  the  orange  and  lemon.  When  boiling  add  the  gelatine,  simmer  until 
dissolved,  then  strain  into  a  basin  and  add  the  rum.  Let  the  mixture 
remain  until  on  the  point  of  setting,  then  stir  in  the  almonds  or  pis- 
tachios, and  pour  at  once  into  a  wetted  round  tin.  V  tectly 
set  turn  the  jelly  out,  cut  it  into  i-inch  square  pieces,  and  roll  them  in 
icing  sugar. 

2355.— WALNUT  TOFFEE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  golden  syrup,  i  Ib.  of  walnuts,  i  tablespoonful 
of  glucose,  a  good  pinch  of  carbonate  of  soda. 

Method. — Blanch  the  walnuts,  break  them  into  small  pieces  or  chop 
them  coarsely,  and  dissolve  the  carbonate  of  soda  in  a  small  quantity 
of  hot  water.  Bring  the  syrup  slowly  to  boiling  point,  add  the  glucose 
and  boil  to  the  <;  little  crack  "  degree.  Now  draw  the  stewpan  aside, 
stir  in  the  prepared  walnuts  and  carbonate  of  soda,  and  at  once  pour 
on  to  an  oiled  or  buttered  tin.  When  sufficiently  set,  mark  into  sec- 
tions, and  when  perfectly  cold,  divide  and  wrap  each  piece  in  wax 
paper. 


SALADS,    SALAD    DRESS- 
INGS  AND  SANDWICHES 


CHAPTER    XXXV 

Salads. — Although  lettuce  frequently  forms  the  foundation  of  salads 
composed  of  raw  materials,  there  are  few  vegetables  and  edible  plants 
that  may  not  be  used  for  the  purpose.  The  long  list  of  those  generally 
regarded  as  most  appropriate  includes  artichokes,  asparagus,  beetroot, 
carrots,  cauliflower,  cresses,  cucumbers,  endive,  French  beans,  lentils, 
lettuce,  onions,  potatoes,  radishes,  salsify,  spinach,  tomatoes,  walnuts, 
and  many  other  products.  On  the  Continent,  a  variety  of  tempting 
salads  are  prepared  from  cold  cooked  vegetables,  which  in  England 
are  rarely  utilized  in  this  manner,  but  a  typical  French  salad  is  com- 
posed entirely  of  one  vegetable,  for  the  cooks  of  that  nation  will  on  no 
account  mix  any  two  vegetables  or  salad  plants.  By  these  means,  the 
characteristic  delicate  flavour  of  choice  vegetables  is  preserved  ;  hence 
the  superiority  of  salads  prepared  by  them.  As  compounding  salads 
is  regarded  as  an  art  that  only  a  few  specially  gifted  excel  in,  ordinary 
cooks  cannot  be  expected  to  attain  perfection  in  this  respect,  but 
careful  attention  to  a  few  simple  details  should  enable  them  to  prepare 
at  least  a  palatable  dish.  To  ensure  success,  it  is  absolutely  necessary 
that  the  plants  and  vegetables  employed  should  be  young,  freshly 
gathered,  and  crisp.  If  stale  and  limp,  they  may  be  freshened  by 
immersion  in  cold  water  for  a  time,  otherwise  it  is  better  to  simply  wash 
them  thoroughly.  Probably  the  point  upon  which  perfection  largely 
depends  is  the  more  or  less  complete  removal  of  moisture  after  washing. 
When  a  salad  basket  is  not  available,  the  materials  should  be  well 
drained  and  shaken  in  a  colander,  and  afterwards  in  a  clean  dry  cloth 
held  by  the  corners,  and  shaken  lightly  until  the  salad  is  dry.  Lettuce 
should  always  be  torn  into  shreds,  not  cut  with  a  knife;  and  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  pour  the  salad  dressing  into  the  bottom  of  the  bowl,  lay  the 
vegetables  upon  it,  and  mix  vigorously  at  the  moment  of  serving. 
Salads  afford  considerable  scope  for  the  exercise  of  individual  taste  and 
inventive  faculty,  and  whatever  their  composition,  they  should  always 
look  cool,  inviting,  and  dainty. 

1092 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1093 

The  term  Sandwich  was  originally  applied  to  slices  of  meat  placed 
between  bread  and  butter,  but  it  has  now  a  much  wider  meaning,  for 
it  is  used  to  describe  an  endless  number  of  pounded  and  shredded 
preparations,  the  varieties  being  multiplied  by  the  addition  of  savoury 
butters,  sauces,  and  condiments  unknown  in  the  eighteenth  century 
when  sandwiches  were  first  introduced.  The  old  comparatively 
substantial  form  still  accompanies  the  sportsman  and  traveller,  but 
those  intended  for  "  afternoon  tea  "  are  dainty  trifles,  pleasing  the  eye 
and  palate,  but  too  flimsy  to  allay  hunger  where  it  exists. 

To  have  sandwiches  in  perfection  the  bread  should  not  be  more  than 
one  day  old,  and  sandwich  loaves  should  be  provided  when  a  large 
number  have  to  be  prepared,  or  large  French  rolls,  when  rolled  sand- 
wiches are  preferred.  Creamed  butter,  No.  2465^5  more  easily  spread 
than  ordinary  butter,  but  when  the  latter  is  used  it  should  first  be 
beaten  to  a  cream.  Savoury  anchovy,  lobster,  prawn,  and  shrimp 
butters  may  be  usefully  employed  to  give  piquancy  and  variety  to  other 
substances;  they  are  also  used  alone  in  the  preparation  of  rolled 
sandwiches,  which  consist  of  single  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  spread 
with  some  prepared  substance,  and  then  lightly  rolled. 

Sandwiches  for  afternoon  tea  or  any  occasion  where  they  will  come 
in  contact  with  gloved  fingers,  should  be  left  perfectly  plain  on  the 
outside,  but  when  they  may  be  eaten  with  a  fork,  some  pretty  effects 
may  be  produced  by  decorating  them  with  variously-coloured  chaud- 
froid  sauces.  Or  they  may  be  decorated  with  cold  aspic  jelly,  and  gar- 
nished with  lobster  coral,  Krona  pepper,  parsley,  hard-boiled  egg,  etc. 


Salads 

2356.— AMERICAN  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  a  1'Ameri- 
caine.) 

Ingredients. — i  white  cabbage  very  finely  shredded,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  gill  of  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  pepper 
to  taste,  £  of  a  pint  of  sour  cream. 

Method. — Bring  the  butter,  vinegar,  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  just  to 
boiling  point,  pour  it  over  the  cabbage,  and,  when  quite  cold,  stir  in 
the  cream,  and  serve.  Or,  moisten  the  cabbage  with  salad  dressing, 
and  serve  directly. 

2357._ANCHOVY  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade   d'Anchois.) 
(See  Spanish   Sardine  Salad,  No.  2418.) 

Substitute  anchovies  for  sardines, 


1094  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2358. --APPLE        AND        CUCUMBER       SALAD. 

(Fr. — Salade  de  Pommes  et  Concombres.) 

Ingredients. — Equal  quantities  of  sliced  apples  and  cucumber,  lemon- 
juice,  salt  and  pepper,  whipped  cream. 

Method. — Season  the  apples  and  encumber  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  sprinkle  with  lemon-juice.  Stir  in  a  little  whipped  cream,  and 
serve  piled  in  a  salad-bowl. 

2359.— ARTICHOKE    SALAD.      (Fr.— Salade   d'Arti- 
chauts.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  globe  artichokes,  vinaigrette  sauce  No.  2450. 
Method. — Let  the  artichokes  become  quite  cold,  then  serve  in  a  salad- 
bowl  or  dish,  and  hand  the  sauce  separately. 

2360.— ASPARAGUS  AND  CAULIFLOWER  SALAD. 
(Fr.— Salade  d'Asperges  et  Choufleur). 

Ingredients. — 50  cooked  asparagus  points,  i  cauliflower  cooked, 
mayonnaise  or  other  salad  dressing  (see  recipes  for  same). 

Method. — Divide  the  cauliflower  into  small  sprays,  and  mix  with 
them  the  asparagus  points.  When  quite  cold,  toss  them  lightly  in  a 
little  salad  dressing,  and  serve. 

2361.— ASPARAGUS  SALAD.  (Fr.— Salade  d'Asperges.) 

Ingredients. — 50  heads  of  cooked  asparagus,  mayonnaise,  vinaigrette, 
or  some  salad  sauce  (see  recipes  for  same). 

Method. — Let  the  asparagus  remain  on  ice  for  2  or  3  hours,  then  coat 
the  tips  with  sauce,  dish  up  neatly  and  serve. 

2362.— ASPIC        MAYONNAISE.        (Fr.— Mayonnaise 
d'  Aspic.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  aspic  jelly,  \  of  a  pint  of  stiff  mayonnaise 
sauce. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  aspic,  let  it  become  quite  cold,  then  stir  in  the 
mayonnaise,  and  use  as  directed. 

2363.— BACON  SALAD.    (See  Potato  Salad,  No.  2406.) 

2364.— BEETROOT  AND  ONION  SALAD.    (See  Onion 
Salad,  No.  2403.) 

Use  one  part  of  thinly  sliced  onion  and  two  parts  of  sliced  and 
pickled  beetroot. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1095 

2365.— BEETROOT  SALAD.     (Fr—  Salade  de  Better- 

ave.) 

Arrange  stamped-out  or  plain  slices  of  beetroot  overlapping  each 
other  closely,  moisten  with  salad  dressing  (see  recipes  for  same),  and 
serve  garnished  with  shredded  celery,  or  tufts  of  finely  scraped  horse- 
radish. 

2366.- BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  SALAD.  (Fr.— Salade  de 
Choux  de  Bruxelles.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  Brussels  sprouts,  salad  dressing  No.  2444,  beet- 
root. 

Method. — Toss  the  sprouts  lightly  in  a  little  salad  dressing,  pile  in  a 
salad-bowl,  and  decorate  with  beetroot. 

2367.— CARDON    SALAD.       (See    Celery   Salad,     No. 
2369.) 

2368.— CAULIFLOWER     SALAD.       (Fr.— Salade    de 

Choufleur.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  cauliflower,  salad  dressing  (see  recipes  for 
same). 

Method. — When  cold,  break  the  cauliflower  into 
lightly  in  salad  dressing,  and  serve  garnished  with  cress  and  beetroot. 

2369.— CELERY       AND       CUCUMBER      SALAD. 

(Fr. — Salade  de  Concombre  et  Celeri.^ 

Ingredients. — i  head  of  celery,  i  cucumber,  2  or  3  bunches  of  small  rrd 
-.es,  i  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  gherkin,  \  a  tcaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  mayonnaise  sauce,  or  salad 
ing  (see  recipes  for  same),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Use  only  the  white  part  of  the  celery;  trim  and  wash  it, 
shred  lengthwise  into  fine  strips,  let  it  remain  in  cold  water  for  about 
|  an  hour,  then  drain  and  dry  thoroughly.  Peel  the  cucumber  thinly, 
cut  it  across  into  i  \  inch  lengths,  and  shred  them  in  the  same  way  as  the 
celery.  Mix  the  salad  dressing,  celery,  cucumber,  and  a  seasoning  of 
salt  and  prj.rvr  thoroughly  together,  heap  it  up  in  the  bowl,  surround 
the  base  with  the  radishes,  garnish  with  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg,  sprinkle 
over  m  and  parsley,  and  ser 

the  common  name-  pivc'i  to  the  root  of  the  Kapkanus  sativus.  one  of  th<« 
u«d  honeradtsb.    There  arc  red  and  white  radishes  ;  an'l  ; 

larger.     Radishes  are  compos.-  i 

>  to  say,  most! v  fib.  e  and  nitrogen  ;  and,  being  generally  eaten"  raw, 
t  of  these  that  their  flavour  depends. 


1096  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2370.— CELERY  AND  NUT  SALAD.    (See  Walnut  and 
Celery  Mayonnaise,  No.  2435.) 

2371.— CELERY       AND        TRUFFLE        SALAD. 

(Fr.— Salade  de  Celeri  et  Truffes.) 

Trim  the  white  part  of  i  or  2  heads  of  celery  with  its  root,  and 
wash  thoroughly.  Cut  it  into  very  fine  shreds,  and  put  these  into 
cold  water  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  to  soak.  Slice  and  cut  into  shreds 
3  or  4  large  truffles.  Drain  the  celery,  and  mix  with  the  truffles.  To 
this  add  a  tablespoonful  of  Madeira  wine,  and  dress  neatly  on  a  glass 
dish  or  in  a  salad  bowl.  Coat  with  mayonnaise  sauce,  decorate  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

2372.— CHICKEN  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  de  Volaille.) 

Ingredients. —  i  boiled  chicken,  2  heads  of  lettuce,  2  strips  of  white 
celery,  2  hard  boiled  eggs,  1 2  stoned  olives,  i  tablespoonful  of  capers, 

1  tablespoonful  of  strips  of  gherkin,  i  gill  of  mayonnaise  sauce,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones,  and  cut  the  flesh  into  small  neat  pieces. 
Wash  the  lettuce  and  dry  it  thoroughly ;  wash  the  celery  and  cut  it 
into  dice.  Mix  the  chicken,  celery,  and  lettuce  together  in  a  basin, 
add  the  vinegar,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Transfer  to  a  salad 
bowl,  pile  high  in  the  centre,  cover  with  mayonnaise  sauce,  garnish 
with  alternate  groups  of  lettuce  leaves,  quarters  of  hard-boiled  egg, 
stoned  olives,  shredded  gherkin  and  capers,  and  serve. 

2373-— CHICORY  SALAD.       (See    Endive  Salad,   No. 
2386.) 

2374.— COLD      MEAT     SALAD,    FRENCH     STYLE. 
(Fr. — Salade  de  Viande  a  la  Fran^aise.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  roast  or  boiled  meat,  4  anchovy  fillets,  2  shallots, 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  wine  vinegar,  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  French  mustard, 
salt   and  pepper.     For  garnishing:  finely-shredded  pickled  gherkins, 
finely-chopped  capers. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  strips  about  2^  inches  in  length  and  i  inch 
in  width.  Chop  the  shallots  and  fillets  of  anchovy  finely,  put  them 
into  a  basin,  add  £  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley,  the  oil,  vinegar  and  mustard, 
season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  then  stir  in  the  slices  of  meat,  cover, 
and  put  aside  for  2  hours,  stirring  occasionally.  When  ready  to  serve, 
arrange  the  salad  in  a  pyramidal  form  in  a  salad  bowl,  garnish  with 
strips  of  gherkin  and  chopped  capers,  and  serve, 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1097 

2375.— COOKED  VEGETABLE  SALAD.    (See  Russian 
Salad,  No.  2409.) 

2376.— CRAB   SALAD.     (See  East    Indian  Salad,  No. 
2384.) 

2377.— CRESS  SALAD.      (Fr. — Salade  au  Cresson.) 

Ingredients. — Watercress,  mustard  and  cress,  2  hard-boiled  eggs, 
French  Orleans  vinegar,  tarragon  vinegar,  Provence  oil,  mignonette 
pepper,  salt. 

Method.— Mix  together  equal  quantities  of  French  Orleans  vinegar, 
Provence  oil,  and  tarragon  vinegar.  Season  this  with  salt  and 
mignonette  pepper.  Have  ready  some  small  cress  and  watercress, 
thoroughly  washed  and  trimmed.  Drain  well,  and  pour  over  the 
prepared  dressing.  Mix  well  but  lightly,  and  put  into  a  salad  bowl. 
iish  with  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  serve. 

2378.— CUCUMBER  SALAD.      (Fr.— Salade   de   Con- 
combre.) 

Ingredients. — i  cucumber,  ^  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  pa: 

:ar,  salad-oil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  cucumber  thinly,  cut  it  into  very  thin  slices,  and 
them  in  a  salad  bowl  or  dish.     Mix  2  parts  of  salad-oil  with   i 
part  of  vinegar,  add  the  parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  stir  well,  and 
pour  over  the  cucumber. 


'-  HBIR  (Fr.  ctmcombre).  —  The 
and  should  be  excluded  from  the  regimen  of 
-  v     When  gathered  young,  they 


amber  U  r*fre*bin*.  but  ndtb«r  nutrition*  nor  dig«tihte, 
n  of  the  delicate.  There  are  various  methods  of  preparing 
are  called  gherkins;  these  pickled  ire  much  used  to  •eaxm- 


2379.  -CURRY  SALAD.    (Fr.  —  Salade  de   Homard  au 
Kari.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  lobster  coarsely  flaked,  i  cucumber  sliced,  i  teaspoonful 
of  finely  chopped  shallot,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  mango 
chutney,  i  teaspoonful  of  curry  paste,  3  tablespoon  fuls  of  salad-oil, 
nne,  shredded  lettuce,  endive. 

Method.  —  Mix  the  shallot,  chutney,  curry  paste,  a  good  pinch  of 
cayenne  and  the  oil  well  together.  Add  the  lobster  and  cucumber, 
and,  when  well  mixed,  serve  on  a  bed  of  lettuce,  garnished  with  tufts 
of  endive. 

2380.—  DANDELION  SALAD.     (Fr.—  Salade  de  Dent- 
de-lion.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  pint  of  young  dandelion  leaves,  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and 


iog8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Thoroughly  pick,  wash,  drain  and  dry  the  leaves,  sprinkle 
over  them  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  add  i  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar 
and  2  of  salad  oil,  mix  well,  and  serve. 

A  more  palatable  salad  may  be  made  by  mixing  equal  parts  of 
dandelion  and  lettuce,  or  dandelion  and  beetroot. 

2381.— DUCK  SALAD.      (Fr.— Salade  de  Canard.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  cold  duck,  \  a  head  of  celery,  £  a  bunch  of  water- 
cress, i  cabbage  lettuce,  2  thin  slices  of  sour  orange  (unpeeled),  i  tea- 
spoonful  each  of  chopped  olives  and  parsley,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad- 
oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  Orleans  vinegar,  mayonnaise  sauce,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  duck  into  i-inch  dice,  wash  the  celery,  trim  away 
the  green  parts,  and  cut  the  white  portion  into  fine  strips.  Place  both 
duck  and  celery  in  a  basin,  add  the  oil  and  vinegar,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  let  the  preparation  stand  for  a  while.  Cut  each  slice 
of  orange  into  8  sections,  trim,  wash,  and  dry  the  lettuce  and  watercress, 
and  line  a  salad  bowl  with  the  leaves  of  the  lettuce.  Arrange  the  water- 
cress and  sections  of  orange  on  the  top  of  them,  cover  with  a  thin 
layer  of  mayonnaise  sauce,  and  add  the  preparation  of  duck  and 
celery.  Spread  the  surface  lightly  with  mayonnaise  sauce,  sprinkle 
over  the  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

2382.— DUTCH    SALAD.     (See    Flemish    Salad,    No. 

2389.) 
2383.— DUTCH    BEETROOT     SALAD.      (Fr.— Salade 

de  Betteraves  a  la  Hollandaise.) 

Ingredients. — Beetroot  sliced  and  stamped  out  with  a  fancy  cutter, 
shredded  lettuce,  cress,  hard-boiled  eggs,  aspic  jelly,  mayonnaise 
No.  20 1. 

Method. — Pass  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  through  a  sieve,  chop  the  white 
coarsely,  and  stir  them  into  some  stiffly  whipped  cold  liquid  aspic  jelly. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  mould  with  some  of  this  aspic;  when  cold,  add 
successive  layers  of  beetroot,  lettuce  and  cress,  separating  each  layer 
with  a  little  aspic  jelly.  Repeat  this  until  the  mould  is  full.  When 
cold,  turn  out,  mask  lightly  with  mayonnaise,  garnish  with  sliced 
beetroot  and  yolk  of  egg,  then  serve. 

2384.— EAST     INDIAN      SALAD.         (Fr.—  Salade     a 
PIndienne.) 

Ingredients. —  i  large  crab,  i  gill  of  tarragon  vinegar,  j  teaspoonful  of 
chilli  vinegar,  I  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil,  i  anchovy,  shredded  celery, 
lettuce,  endive,  cayenne,  salt. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1099 

Method.— Pound  the  anchovy  and  crab  in  a  mortar,  add  the  salad-oil, 

ir  and  seasoning  to  taste,  and  serve  garnished  with  celery,  lettuce 

and  endive.     Another  variety  of  crab  salad  is  made  by  mixing  the 

prepared  crab  with  shredded  lettuce,  to  which  may  be  added  endive, 

celery,  etc. 

2385.— EGG  SALAD.      (Fr. — Salade  aux  Oeufs.) 

Ingredients. — 6  hard-boiled  eggs,  i  crisp  lettuce,  a  few  slices  of  beet- 
root, i  tablespoonful  of  capers,  i^  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley, 
i  slice  of  toasted  bread,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  tablespoonful  of 
mayonnaise  sauce  No.  201. 

Method. — Cut  the  eggs  across  into  rather  thick  slices;  wash,  trim, 
and  dry  the  lettuce  thoroughly;  whip  the  cream  stiffly,  and  add  it,  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  parsley,  to  the  mayonnaise  sauce.  Place  the  round 
of  toast  in  a  salad  bowl;  upon  it  arrange  a  layer  of  lettuce  leaves,  then 
r  of  mayonnaise,  cover  with  slices  of  egg,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Repeat  until  the  materials  are  used,  piling  the  centre 
somewhat  high,  garnish  with  the  capers,  and  slices  of  beetroot,  sprinkle 
on  the  remainder  of  the  parsley,  and  ser 

2386.— ENDIVE  SALAD.      (Fr.— Salade  de  Chicoree.) 

Ingredients. — Endive,  cress,  shredded  celery,  boiled  beetroot,  salad 

ng  (see  recipes  for  same). 

Method. — Separate  the  endive  into  tufts,  toss  these  in  salad  dressing, 
.em  high  in  a  salad-bowl,  and  garnish  with  cress,  celery  and  beet- 
root. 

2387.— ENGLISH  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  a  1' Anglais.) 

Ingredients. — Shredded  lettuce,  watercress,  mustard  and  cress, 
radishes,  a  few  spring  onions  finely  sliced,  sugai  (>pper, 

equal  parts  of  oil  and  vinegar,  sliced  tomatoes. 

Method. — Mix  together  the  lettuce,  cress,  radishes  and  onions.  Add 
a  little  sugar  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  to  the  oil  and  vinegar, 
pour  it  over  the  salad,  and  serve  garnished  with  sliced  tomatoes. 

2388.— FISH  SALAD.       (Fr.— Salade  de  Poisson.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  fish,  mayonnaise  sauce,  or  other  salad  dressing, 
lettuce,  endive,  cress. 

Method.— Separate   the   fish  into  large   flakes,   place  it   alternately 
with  layers  of  lettuce,  etc.,  in  a  salad-bowl,  covering  each 
lightly    with    mayonnaise    or    other    salad    dressing.     Decorate    with 
olives,  sliced  beetroot,  prawns,  shrimps,  gherkin,  or  any  suitable  fish 
garnish. 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2389.— FLEMISH  SALAD.  (Fr—  SaladealaFlamande.) 

Ingredients. — Equal  quantities  of  cooked  Brussels  sprouts,  boiled 
potatoes  sliced,  sprays  of  boiled  cauliflower,  sliced  beetroot,  and  chopped 
apples.  To  i  bowl  of  salad  allow  i  small  herring  separated  into  small 
flakes,  mayonnaise  or  other  salad  dressing  (see  recipes  for  same). 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  together,  add  salad  dressing  to 
taste,  and  serve. 

2390.— GAME  SALAD.       (Fr.—  Salade  de  Gibier.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  any  kind  of  cold  game,  i  hard-boiled 
egg,  2  lettuces,  cayenne,  pepper  and  salt,  mayonnaise  sauce  No.  201, 
pickled  beetroot  for  garnish. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones,  and  cut  the  flesh  into  dice  of  medium 
size.  Wash,  trim  and  dry  the  lettuce,  and  tear  it  into  shreds.  Stamp 
out  some  star-shaped  pieces  of  white  of  egg,  chop  up  the  remainder 
of  the  egg,  and  mix  it  with  the  meat.  Arrange  the  meat,  lettuce, 
and  mayonnaise  in  alternate  layers  in  a  salad  bowl,  raising  the  centre 
in  a  pyramidal  form,  and  add  a  sprinkling  of  salt  and  pepper  to  each 
layer.  Cover  the  surface  with  a  thin  layer  of  mayonnaise  sauce,  garnish 
with  stars  of  sliced  beetroot  and  hard-boiled  yolk  of  egg,  and  serve. 

2391.— GERM  AN  SALAD.  (Fr.— Salade  a  1'Allemande.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  cold  boiled  beef  shredded,  i  tablespoonful  of 
finely  chopped  onion,  i  tablespoonful  of  coarsely  chopped  gherkin, 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  pickled  red  cabbage,  £  a  beetroot  sliced,  i  boiled 
potato  sliced.  For  the  salad  dressing:  |-  of  a  pint  of  white  wine, 
£  of  a  pint  of  salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar.  For 
garnish  :  2  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Method. — Beat  the  oil,  wine  and  vinegar  well  together,  pour  the 
preparation  over  the  salad  mixture,  let  it  remain  on  ice  for  3  or  4 
hours,  then  garnish  with  sections  of  egg,  and  serve. 

2392.— GREEN  PEA  AND  BEAN  SALAD.  (Fr.— Salade 
de  Petits  Pois  et  Haricots  Verts.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  green  peas,  cooked  French  beans,  i  small  cooked 
beetroot,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
a  clove  of  garlic,  salad  dressing  No.  2444. 

Method. — For  this  salad  preserved  peas  and  beans  may  be  used. 
When  using  fresh  ones,  boil  them  separately  in  slightly  salted  water 
containing  a  small  piece  of  soda,  drain  well,  and,  when  cold,  cut  the 
beans  into  i  inch  lengths.  Cut  the  clove  of  garlic  in  two,  and  rub  the 
inside  of  the  salad  bowl  with  the  cut  side.  Mix  the  peas  and  beans 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  not 

with  2  or  3  saladspoonfuls  of  dressing,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper,  garnish  with  rings  of  hard-boiled  egg  and  slices  of  beetroot, 
sprinkle  the  parsley  over,  and  serve. 

2393.— HORSERADISH  SALAD.    (Fr.—  Salade  de  Rai- 
fort.) 

Ingredients. — Finely  scraped  horseradish,  mayonnaise  sauce,  cress. 
Method. — Moisten   the   horseradish   with    mayonnaise,    and   garnish 
with  cress. 

2394.— ITALIAN  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  a  1'Italienne.^ 

Ingredients. — Equal  parts  of  £-inch  slices  of  cooked  carrots,  turnips, 
potatoes  and  beetroot,  and  a  corresponding  quantity  of  Brussels 
sprouts,  French  be  ms,  and  sprigs  of  cauliflower,  all  cooked,  Tartarc 
sauce  No.  213. 

Method.  -Mix  all  well  together,  moisten  with  the  sauce,  and  ser 

. — This  Salad  is  frequently  prepared  in  an  ordinary  basin  mould 
is  masked  with  Aspic,  and  afterwards  decorated  with  tomatoes  and  other 
vegetables,  in  the  manner  shown  in  the  coloured  illustratio: 

2395-—  JAPANESE  SALAD.    (Fr.— Salade  a  la  Japon- 
aise.) 

Ingredients.— 3  medium-sized  truffles  coarsely  chopped,  3  medium- 
sized  cold  potatoes  cut  into  dice,  18  cooked  mussels,  i  u-.< spoonful  of 
blanched  onion  finely  chopped,  i  teaspoonlul  of  finely  chopped  parsley, 
12  small  fillets  of  anchovy,  small  lettuce  leaves,  ^  a  wineglassful  of 
champagne,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  truffles,  potatoes,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  a  season- 
ing of  salt  and  pepper  together,  and  add  the  champagne.  Let  it  stand 
for  2  hours,  then  add  the  mussels,  onion  and  parsley,  and  serve  garnished 
\\ith  kttiKe  loaves  and  fillets  of  anchovy. 

2396.— LENTIL  SALAD.    (Fr.— Salade  de  Lentilles.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  cooked  lentils,  £  of  a  pint  of  shredded  celery, 
i  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  cooked  onion,  salad  dressing  (see 
recipes  for  same). 

Method. — Place  a  little  salad  dressing  in  a  salad-bowl,  put  in  the 
lentils,  etc.,  mix  well,  and  garnish  with  beetroot,  cress  or  radishes. 

2397.— LETTUCE  SALAD.      (Fr.— Salade  de  Laitue.) 

Ingredients. — 2  heads  of  cabbage  lettuce,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  3  salad- 
spoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i  saladspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  £  a  tea- 
poonful  of  chopped -parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 


H02  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Trim,  wash  and  dry  the  lettuce  thoroughly,  tear  it  into 
shreds,  and  place  it  in  a  salad  bowl.  Put  about  2  saltspoonfuls  of  salt 
and  |  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper  into  the  salad  spoon,  fill  it  with  tarragon 
vinegar,  stir  until  the  salt  is  dissolved,  then  pour  the  contents  of  the 
spoon  over  the  salad.  Add  the  3  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  mix  the 
salad  thoroughly,  place  on  the  top  the  eggs  cut  into  quarters,  sprinkle 
over  the  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

2398.— MACEDOINE  SALAD.      (See  Mixed    Vegetable 
Salad,  No.  2400.) 

2399.— MILANESE    SALAD.      (See   Italian  Salad,  No. 
2394-) 

2400.— MIXED  VEGETABLE  SALAD.      (Fr.— Salade 

de  Legumes  a  la  Jardiniere.) 
Ingredients. — i   small  cooked  cauliflower,    i   small  cooked  beetroot, 

1  small  cucumber,  2  or  3  firm  cooked  potatoes,  2  firm  tomatoes,  i  crisp 
lettuce,  £  of  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  sauce  or  salad  dressing  (see  No.  2449). 

Method. — Divide  the  cauliflower  into  small  sprays,  cut  the  beetroot 
and  potatoes  into  fine  strips,  slice  the  cucumber  and  tomatoes.  Place 
all  these  ingredients  in  layers  in  a  salad  bowl,  piling  somewhat  high  in  the 
centre,  and  season  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  over  the  salad 
dressing,  and  garnish  with  a  border  of  lettuce,  previously  well  washed 
and  dried. 

2401.— MUSHROOM  SALAD.    (Fr.— Salade  aux  Cham- 
pignons.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  preserved  mushrooms  (champignons)  sliced, 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  shredded  celery,  i  tablespoonful  of  shredded  truffle, 
lettuce,  hard-boiled  eggs,  sliced  beetroot,  mayonnaise  No.  201. 

Method. — Mix  together  the  mushrooms,  celery  and  truffles,  stir  in  a 
little  mayonnaise,  and  pile  the  mixture  on  a  bed  of  lettuce.  Garnish 
with  sections  of  egg  and  slices  of  beetroot. 

TARRAGON  (Fr.  estragon). — The  leaves  of  this  plant,  known  to  naturalists  as  Artemisia  dracunculus, 
are  much  used  in  France  as  a  flavouring  ingredient  for  salads.  From  it  also  is  made  the  vinegar  known 
as  tarragon  vinegar,  which  is  employed  by  the  French  in  mixing  their  mustard.  It  originally  came 
from  Tartary,  and  does  not  seed  in  France. 

2402.— OKRA  SALAD. 

Ingredients. — Okras,  endive,  shredded  lettuce,  salad  dressing  {see 
recipes  for  same). 

Method. — Boil  fresh  okras  until  tender,  or,  when  using  tinned  ones, 
turn  them  into  a  stewpan,  add  a  little  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  then  drain 
and  dry.  When  cold,  quarter  the  okras,  arrange  them  neatly  on  a  bed 
of  mixed  endive  and  lettuce,  pour  the  salad  dressing  over,  and  serve. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1103 

2403.— ONION  SALAD.       (Fr.—  Salade  d'Oignons.) 

Ingredients. — Large  mild  onions,  finely  chopped  parsley,  pepper  and 
salt,  oil,  vinegar. 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  cover  them  with  cold  water,  bring  to 
boiling  point,  and  drain.  Let  them  remain  in  cold  water  for  6  or  7 
hours,  changing  the  water  repeatedly.  Slice  thinly,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  moisten  slightly  with  vinegar,  and  more  liberally  with  oil, 
sprinkle  lightly  with  parsley,  then  serve. 

2404.— OYSTER   AND    CELERY  SALAD.     (Salade  de 
Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — 24  oysters,  i  head  of  celery  parboiled  and  shredded, 
£  a  small  white  cabbage  parboiled  and  shredded,  mayonnaise  sauce 

:oi,  oil,   vinegar. 

Method. — Blanch  the  oysters,  and  let  them  remain  in  the  water  until 

they  lose  their  flabbiness.     When  quite  cold,  mix  the  celery  and  cabbage 

together,  moisten  slightly  with  oil  and  vinegar,  and  turn  the  mixture 

into  a  salad-bowl.     Place  the  oysters  on  the  top,  coat  lightly  with 

rvc. 

2405.— POLISH  SALAD.    (Fr.— Salade  a  la  Polonaise.^ 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  finely  shredded  game  or  poultry,  4  hard-boiled 
-Im-ddrd  lettuce,  endive,  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  Season  the  game  or  poultry  \sith  salt  and  pepper,  and 
moisten  slightly  with  oil  and  vinegar.  Let  it  stand  for  2  or  3  hours, 
then  arrange  neatly  on  a  bed  of  lettuce,  and  garnish  with  tufts  of  endive. 
The  yolks  of  the  eggs  should  be  passed  through  a  win  >u  \  e  and  scattered 
over  and  the  whites  sliced  and  used  as  a  garnish. 

2406.— POTATO  SALAD.    (Fr.— Salade  de  Pommes  de 
Terre.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  small  potatoes,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  lean  bacon,  i 
small  onion  finely-chopped,   i    teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsK-y, 
i  tablespoonful  of  Mayonnaise  sauce  (see  Sauces),  vinegar,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method.  -Boil  the  potatoes  in  their  skins,  peel,  and  slice  them  whilst 
hot.  Cut  the  bacon  into  dice,  fry  it  until  nicely  browned,  then  drain 
well  from  fat,  and  put  it  into  a  basin  with  the  sliced  potato  and 
onion.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  stir  in  the  mayonnaise  sauce,  and 
about  ,H)onfuls  of  vinegar.  Mix  carefully  so  as  not  to  break 

the  potato,  and  serve  in  a  salad  bowl  with  the  surface  sprinkled  with  the 
par^l 


H04  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2407.— RED     CABBAGE     SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade   au 
Chou  rouge.) 

Ingredients. — A  small  red  cabbage  finely  shredded,  i  pint  of  malt 
vinegar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  salt,  i  salt- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  ingredients  well  together,  let  the  salad  stand  for 
2  days,  then  use. 

2408. — ROMAN  SALAD.       (Fr. — Salade  Romaine.) 

Ingredients. — Coss  lettuce,  finely  chopped  onion,  honey,  vinegar. 

Method. — Thoroughly  wash,  trim,  and  dry  the  lettuce,  separate  it 
into  small  pieces,  season  it  with  vinegar  sweetened  to  taste  with 
very  little  honey,  and  sprinkle  over  with  onion. 

2409.— RUSSIAN    SALAD.        (Fr.— Salade    Russe,    au 
Maigre.) 

Ingredients. — 14-  pints  of  mayonnaise  sauce,  i  small  cauliflower,  i 
gill  of  cooked  green  peas,  i  gill  of  mixed  vegetables  (dice  of  carrot, 
turnip,  and  French  beans),  3  new  potatoes,  2  tomatoes,  2  gherkins, 
i  truffle.  For  garnishing:  shredded  smoked  salmon,  £  inch  dice  of 
hard-boiled  white  of  egg,  shredded  beetroot,  stoned  olives,  fillets  of 
anchovy,  capers. 

Method. — Divide  the  cauliflower  into  small  sprays,  boil  them  and  the 
peas,  carrot,  turnip  and  beans  separately,  and  drain  well.  Boil  the 
potatoes,  and  when  cold  cut  them  into  neat  strips;  cut  the  tomatoes 
into  moderately  thin  slices,  shred  the  gherkins  and  truffle  finely.  When 
all  the  cooked  ingredients  are  cold  and  well  drained,  arrange  them  with 
the  tomatoes,  gherkins,  and  truffle  in  distinct  layers  in  a  salad  bowl. 
Season  each  layer  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  lightly  with 
mayonnaise  sauce,  pile  the  salad  high  in  the  centre,  and  cover  the  surface 
lightly  with  mayonnaise.  Decorate  with  small  groups  of  shredded 
salmon,  shredded  beetroot,  dice  of  white  of  egg,  olives,  capers  and 
fillets  of  anchovy.  Serve  the  remainder  of  the  mayonnaise  sauce 
separately. 

Note. — This  Salad  is  frequently  prepared  in  a  cylindrical  shaped  mould  with 
suitable  border.  First  mask  the  mould  with  Aspic,  and  tastefully  decorate 
with  the  available  vegetables,  as  shown  in  the  coloured  illustration. 

2410.— SALAD,    BOILED.      (Fr. — Salade    de   Legumes 
Bouillie.) 

Ingredients. — French  beans  cooked  and  shredded,  celery  cooked  and 
shredded,  endive  blanched,  lettuce,  salad  dressing  No.  2444,  or  2445. 

Method. — Mix  the  beans  and  celery  together,  add  salad  dressing  to 
taste,  and  garnish  with  tufts  of  endive  and  lettuce, 


SALADS 


i.— Cucumber.       a.— Beetroot  and  Potato.        3.— Macidoine.       4.— Tomato.       5. —Russian 
6.— Italian.        7.— Prawn.        8.— Egg.        9.— Lobster.        10.— Salad  Dumas. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1105 

2411.— SALAD  CHIFFONADE.  (Fr.— Salade  a  la 
Chiffonade.) 

Ingredients. — Carrot,  celery,  beetroot,  all  cooked  and  cut  into  julienne 
strips,  cucumber  shredded,  lettuce  stamped  into  small  rounds,  salad 
dressing  (see  recipes  for  same). 

Method. — Toss  all  lightly  in  a  little  salad  dressing,  and  serve. 

2412.— SALSIFY  SALAD.       (Fr.— Salade  de  Salsifis.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  salsify,  mayonnaise  sauce  No.  201. 
Method. — Cut  the  salsify  into  2-inch  lengths,  pile  them  in  a  salad- 
bowl  or  dish,  coat  lightly  with  mayonnaise,  and  serve. 

2413.— SARDINE  MAYONNAISE.  (Fr.— Mayonnaise  de 
Sardines.)  (See  Spanish  Sardine  Salad,  No. 
2418.) 

Substitute  mayonnaise  sauce  for  the  vinegar. 

2414.— SHAD'S  ROE  SALAD.  (Fr.— Salade  au  Frai 
d'Elose.) 

Ingredients.— 3  cooked  shad's  roes,  shredded  lettuce,  en  iroot, 

mayonnaise,  oil,  vincvjnr,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Slice  the  roes  thinly,  season  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper. 

sprinkle  with  vinegar,  and  moisten  well  with  oil.     Let  them  remain 

hours,  then  place  them  on  a  bed  of  lettuce,  coat  lightly  \\itli 

mayonnaise,  decorate  with  tufts  of  endive  and  sliced  beetroot,  then 


2415.— SHRIMP  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade   d'Ecrevisses.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  picked  shrimps,  2  or  3  tablespoon fu Is  of  mayon- 
naise sauce  No.  201,   sliced  cucumber,  shredded  lettuce. 

Method. — Stir  the  sauce  into  the  shrimps,  pile  the  mixture  in  a  salad- 
>r  dish,  garnish  with  cucumber  and  lettuce,  then  serve. 

2416.— SORREL  SALAD.       (Fr.— Salade  d'Oseille.) 

Follow  the  same  directions  as  given  for  preparing  Spinach  Salad, 
Recipe  No.  2419. 

2417.— SOUR  CREAM  DRESSING. 

Ingredients. — Sour  thick  cream,  salt. 

Method.  -Stir  the  cream  until  smooth    add  salt  to  taste,  and  use  as 

rc(jm 


no6  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2418.— SPANISH  SARDINE  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  de 
Sardines  a  TEspagnole.) 

Ingredients. — 12  or  14  sardines,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  capers,  i  crisp 
lettuce,  stoned  Spanish  olives,  anchovy  butter  No.  2454,  vinegar, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  the  sardines,  and  divide 
them  into  short  pieces.  Wash  and  dry  the  lettuce  thoroughly,  tear 
it  into  fine  shreds,  put  it  into  a  basin  with  the  sardines  and  capers, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  little  vinegar,  and  mix  well  together. 
Arrange  the  salad  in  a  salad  bowl,  piling  it  high  in  the  centre,  garnish 
with  the  olives  filled  with  anchovy  butter,  and  serve. 

2419.— SPINACH    AND    EGG    SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade 
d'Epinards  aux  Oeufs.) 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  young  spinach  leaves,  6  spring  onions  chopped, 
3  or  4  hard-boiled  eggs,  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  spinach  free  from  grit,  dry  it  thoroughly,  and 
mix  with  it  the  onions.  Add  a  few  drops  of  vinegar  to  i  tablespoonful 
of  oil,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour  it  over  the  spinach,  and  mix 
well.  Turn  into  a  salad-bowl,  garnish  with  sections  of  egg,  and  serve, 
A  salad  of  cooked  spinach  may  be  made  by  pressing  the  puree  into  a 
mould  or  moulds,  which,  when  cold,  are  turned  out  and  garnished 
with  sections  of  egg. 

2420.— STUFFED  TOMATO  SALAD.  (See  Chapter  XXX, 
Vegetables,  Recipe  No.  1614.) 

2421.— SUMMER  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  d'Ete.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  lettuces  shredded,  2  handfuls  of  mustard  and 
cress,  1 2  radishes  sliced,  £  a  cucumber  sliced,  salad  dressing  (see  recipes 
for  same). 

Method. — Place  a  little  salad  dressing  at  thj  bottom  of  a  salad-bowl, 
put  in  the  lettuce,  etc.,  and  serve  when  well  mixed. 

2422.— SWEDISH    SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade    a  la  Sued- 
oise.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  each  of  cold  roast  beef,  boiled  potatoes,  firm 
apples  and  pickled  herring,  all  cut  into  dice,  3  anchovies  washed, 
filletted,  and  coarsely  chopped,  i  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped 
gherkin,  capers,  hard-boiled  egg.'  tarragon  and  chervil,  24  turned 
olives,  12  oysters,  oil  and  vinegar. 

Method. — Mix  all  but  the  oysters  together,  moisten  with  a  little  oil 
and  vinegar,  and  place  the  oysters  on  the  top. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  no; 

2423.— SWEETBREAD     AND    CUCUMBER    SALAD. 
(Fr. — Salade  de  Ris-de-Veau  et  Concombre.) 

Ingredients. — A  calf's  sweetbread,  cooked  and  thinly  sliced,  £  of  a 
cucumber  thinly  peeled  and  sliced,  lettuce  shredded,  salad  dressing 
(see  recipes  for  same),  mayonnaise  sauce  No.  J<H. 

Method. — Toss  the  lettuce  in  a  little  salad  dressing,  turn  it  into  a 
salad-bowl,  and  arrange  the  sweetbread  on  the  top,  cover  lightly  with 
mayonnaise,  garnish  with  cucumber,  and  serve. 

2424.— SWEETBREAD  SALAD.     (See  Sweetbread  and 
Cucumber  Salad,  No.  2423.) 

2425.— SWISS  SALAD.       (Fr.— Salade  Suisse.) 

Ingredients. — 3  tablespoonfuls  of  potato,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tongue, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  beetroot,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  carrot,  i  tablespoonful 
of  apple,  all  shredded  and  all  cooked  except  the  apple,  i   cooked 
herring,  findy  flaked,  salad  dressing  (see  K  :  15  for  same). 

Method.-  Mix  all  well  together,  moisten  slightly  with  salad  iln 
and  serve  piled  in  a  salad-bowl. 

2426.— TARTARE  SALAD.     (Fr. — Salade  a  la  Tartare  . 

Ingredients. — Equal  quantities  of  shredded  cold  meat,  celery  and 
cooked  potato,  tartare  sauce  No.  213,  salt  and  pepj 

Method. — Mix  the  meat,  celery  and  potato  together,  sprinkle  liberally 
with  salt  ,ni(l  pepper,  and  stir  in  a  little  fci: 
with  tufts  of  endive  or  sliced  beetroot. 

2427.— TOMATO  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  de  Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — 6  firm  medium-sized  tomatoes,  i  teaspoonful  of  nnH\- 
chopped  parsley,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
^poonful  of  mixed  mustard,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Scald  the  tomatoes  in  boiling  water  for  i  minute,  drain 
on  a  cloth,  and  carefully  remove  the  stem-  n.  When  cool,  rut 

them  into  thin  slices,  and  place  them  in  a  salad  bowl.  Put  2  saltspoon- 
fuls  of  salt,  and  i  saltspoonful  of  pepper  into  a  basin,  add  the  mustard, 
pour  in  the  vinegar  and  oil,  and  mix  thoroughly  with  a  wooden  spoon. 
When  ready  to  serve,  add  the  chopped  parsley  to  the  dressing,  and  pour 
it  over  the  tomat< 

2428.— TOMATO  AND  CHIVES  SALAD.     (See  Tomato 
and  Onion  Salad,  No.  2429.) 

-titutc     i  poonful     of    ;  >pped    chives  or    very 

young  spring  onions  lor  the  cooked  onion. 


Iio8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2429.— TOMATO  AND  ONION  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade 
au  Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — 6  tomatoes  sliced,  i  large  onion,  salad  dressing  (see 
Recipe  No.  2445  for  same). 

Method. — Boil  or  bake  the  onion  until  three-parts  cooked.  When 
cold,  chop  it  not  too  coarsely,  sprinkle  it  over  the  sliced  tomatoes, 
add  a  little  salad  dressing,  then  serve. 

2430.— TOMATO     AND     ARTICHOKE     SALAD. 

(Fr. — Salade  d'Artichauts  et  Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — Tomatoes,  cooked  artichoke  bottoms  (tinned  ones  will 
serve),  mayonnaise  sauce. 

Method. — Split  the  artichoke  bottoms  in  halves,  and  slice  the  tomatoes. 
Arrange  neatly  in  a  salad-bowl  or  dish,  pour  over  a  little  sauce  and 
serve. 

2431.— TRUFFLE  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  aux  Truffes.) 

Ingredients. — Equal  parts  of  finely-shredded  truffles  and  celery, 
cream  mayonnaise  No.  2440,  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Method. — Mix  the  truffles  and  celery  together,  stir  in  the  mayonnaise, 
and  pile  in  a  salad-bowl.  Garnish  with  chopped  whites  and  seived 
yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  serve. 

2432.— TURNIP  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  de  Navets.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  boiled  turnips,  sliced  beetroot,  salad  dressing  (see 
Recipe  No.  2445  *or  same). 

Method. — Slice  the  turnip  thickly,  cut  the  slices  into  strips,  and  pile 
them  in  a  salad-bowl.  Pour  a  little  salad  dressing  over  them,  and 
garnish  with  beetroot. 

2433.— VEAL  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  shredded  cold  veal,  shredded  lettuce,  endive, 
i  tablespoonful  of  capers  or  chopped  gherkin,  lemon-juice,  salt  and 
pepper,  salad  dressing  (see  Recipe  No.  2445  f°r  same). 

Method. — Season  the  meat  with  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle  liberally 
with  lemon- juice,  and  put  it  aside  for  i  hour.  Add  the  capers  and 
lettuce,  moisten  with  salad  dressing,  and  serve  garnished  with  tufts 
of  endive. 

2434.— WALNUT  AND  CELERY  SALAD.  (See  Walnut 
and  Celery  Mayonnaise,  No.  2435.) 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1109 

2435.— WALNUT      AND      CELERY      MAYONNAISE. 
(Fr. — Mayonnaise  de  Celeri  et  Noix.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  strips  of  white  celery  finely  shredded,  £  a  pint  of 
peeled  walnuts,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  stiff  mayonnaise  sauce  No.  201, 
i  tablespoonful  of  thick  cream,  salt  and  pepper.  For  garnishing  : 
watercress  or  small  red  radishes. 

Method. — Cut  the  walnuts  into  small  pieces,  mix  them  with  prepared 
celery,  season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  gradually  the 
mayonnaise  and  cream.  Dress  in  a  pile  on  a  vegetable  dish  or  a  small 
flat  salad  bowl,  garnish  with  a  few  sprigs  of  watercress  or  small  radishes, 
and  serve  with  roast  poultry  or  game. 

2436.— WHITE     BEAN     SALAD.      (Fr.—  Salade    de 
Haricots  blancs.)  (See  Lentil  Salad,  No.  2396.) 

Substitute  white  haricot  beans  for  lentils,  or  use  Boston  baked 
beans,  usually  sold  in  tins. 

2437.— WINTER  SALAD.     (Fr.— Salade  d'hiver.) 

Ingredients. —  i  small  head  of  celery,  |  a  cookea  beetroot,  3  or  4  cold 
potatoes,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salad  dressing 
No.  2445 ,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  and  slice  the  beetroot,  slice  the  potatoes,  shred  the 
celery,  but  not  too  finely.  Arrange  the  prepared  vegetables  in  separate 
layers,  seasoning  each  layer  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  over 
4  or  5  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  dressing,  sprinkle  on  the  parsley,  and 
serve. 


Salad  Dressings 


2438.— CLARET  DRESSING. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  claret,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a. 
clove  of  garlic,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  shallots,  salt  and  sugar 
to  taste. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  together,  let  the  preparation  stand 
for  6  hours  or  longer ,  then  strain,  and  pour  it  over  a  salad  previously 
tossed  in  a  little  salad-oil. 

4329.— MAYONNAISE  SAUCE.     (See  Sauces,  No.  20  O 


mo  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2440.— MAYONNAISE     COOKED.     (Fr.— Mayonnaise 
cuite.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  milk  or  single  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of  vinegar, 
3  yolks  of  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  sugar, 
i  tablespoonful  of  salt,  i  dessertspoonful  of  mustard. 

Method. — Mix  the  oil,  sugar,  salt  and  mustard  well  together  in  a 
basin,  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  next  the  vinegar,  and  lastly 
the  cream  or  milk.  Stand  the  basin  in  a  saucepan  containing  sufficient 
boiling  water  to  surround  it  to  half  its  depth,  and  stir  the  mixture 
over  the  fire  until  it  acquires  the  consistency  of  custard.  This  dressing, 
if  tightly  bottled,  will  keep  for  several  days. 

Average  Cost. — 6d.  when  made  with  milk. 

244 1  .—MAYONNAISE,      RED.  (Fr.— Mayonnaise 

Rouge.) 

Ingredients. — |  a  pint  of  stiff  mayonnaise  sauce  (see  Sauces),  £  of  a 
pint  of  tomato  puree,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  ingredients  smoothly  together,  and  season  to 
taste. 

THE  OLIVE  AND  OLIVE-OIL  (Fr.  olive).—  This  tree  assumes  a  high  degree  of  interest  from  the  his- 
torical circumstances  with  which  it  is  connected.  A  leaf  of  it  was  brought  into  the  ark  by  the  dove 
when  that  vessel  was  still  floating  on  the  waters  of  the  great  deep,  and  gave  the  first  token  that  the 
deluge  was  subsiding.  Among  the  Greeks,  the  prize  of  the  victor  in  the  Olympic  games  was  a 
of  wild  olive  ;  and  the  "  Mount  of  Olives  "  is  rendered  familiar  to  our  ears  by  its  being  mentu  ned 
in  the  Scriptures  as  near  to  Jerusalem.  The  tree  is  indigenous  in  the  north  of  Africa,  Syria  and  Greece, 
and  the  Romans  introduced  it  into  Italy.  In  Spain  and  in  the  south  of  France  it  is  now  cultivated  ; 
and  although  it  grows  in  England,  its  fruit  does  not  ripen  in  the  open  air.  Both  in  Greece  and  Portu- 
gal the  fruit  is  eaten  in  its  ripe  state,  but  its  taste  is  not  agreeable  to  many  palates.  To  the  Indian 
shepherd,  bread  and  olives,  with  a  little  wine,  form  a  nourishing  diet ;  but  in  England  olives  are  usually 
only  introduced  by  way  of  dessert,  to  destroy  the  taste  of  the  viands  which  have  been  previously 
eaten,  that  the  flavour  of  the  wine  may  be  the  better  enjoyed. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  olives  imported  to  London— the  French,  Spanish  and  Italian  ;  the  first 
are  from  Provence,  and  are  generally  accounted  excellent;  the  secand  are  larger,  but  more  bitur; 
and  the  last  are  from  Lucca,  and  are  esteemed  the  best.  The  oil  extracted  from  olives,  r  illcd  olive- 
oil,  or  salad-oil,  is,  with  the  Continentals,  in  continual  request,  many  dishes  being  prepared  with  it. 
With  us  it  is  principally  used  in  mixing  a  salad. 

2442.— REMOULADE  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  salad-oil,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar, 
i  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  i  raw  yolk  of  egg,  a  few  leaves  each 
of  tarragon,  burnet,  chives,  and  parsley,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Blanch  the  herbs  lor  i  minute  in  boiling  water,  then  dry 
them  well  and  chop  them  finely.  Put  the  yolk  of  egg  into  a  small  basin, 
add  the  salt  and  pepper,  stir  briskly  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  very 
thick,  then  work  in  the  oil,  drop  by  drop  at  first,  and  afterwards  moiv 
quickly.  A  few  drops  of  vinegar  should  be  added  at  intervals  during 
the  mixing,  and  when  the  desired  consistency  is  obtained,  the  musiurd, 
herbs  and  sugar  may  be  stirred  in  and  the  sauce  used. 

Average  Cost. —  is. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  un 

2443._REMOULADE  SAUCE,  INDIAN. 

Ingredients. — The  yolks  of  3  hard-boiled  eggs,  3  tablespoonfuls  of 
salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  curry  paste, 

1  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  yolks  of  eggs  into  a  basin,  rub  them  with  the  back 
of  a  wooden  spoon  until  smooth,  then  mix  in  the  salt,  curry-powder 
and  paste.  Stir  the  oil  in  gradually,  and  as  soon  as  the  sauce  is  per- 
fectly smooth  and  creamy,  add  the  vinegar,  drop  by  drop  ;  when 
thoroughly  incorporated,  use  as  required. 

Average  Cost. — About  9d. 

2444.— SALAD  DRESSING. 

Ingredients. — The  yolks  of  3  hard-boiled  eggs,  4  tablespoonfuls  of 
salad-oil,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  Worcester  sauce  or  mushroom  ketchup, 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,   i   teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,   i   tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Method. — Rub  the  yolks  of  eggs  through  a  fine  sieve,  mix  with  them 
the  salt,  pepper  and  mustard.  Stir  in  the  salad-oil,  add  the  Worcester 
sauce  and  vinegar  gradually,  and  when  thoroughly  incorporated  the 
dressing  is  ready  for  use.  The  whites  of  the  eggs  should  be  utilized 
for  garnishing  the  sakid.  The  above  will  be  found  an  excellent  dressing 
for  cold  meat  salads  to  be  served  with  cold  meat. 

Average  Cost. — 8d.  or  9d. 

2445.— SALAD  DRESSING.     (Another  way.) 

Ingredients. — The  raw  yolks  of  2  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar  (preferably 
tarragon),  |  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  finely-chopped  onion,  chervil,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Add  the  salt  and  pepper  to  the  raw  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
stir  them  with  a  wooden  spoon  in  a  small  basin  until  almost  as  thick 
as  butter;  add  the  oil,  drop  by  drop,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile,  put 
in  the  cream,  tarragon  vinegar,  chopped  chervil,  and  use. 

Average  Cost. — About  6d.  or  8d. 

2446.— SALAD  DRESSING.     (Another  way.) 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  £  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  £  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper. 

Method. — Bruise  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  with  a  \\ooden  spoon,  add  to 

m  the  mustard,  salt  and  pepper,  and  the  cream  gradually.     When 

perfectly  smooth  add  the  vinegar,  drop  by  drop,  stirring  briskly  mean- 


IH2        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

while.     If   preferred,   oil   may   be   substituted   for   the   cream.     The 
whites  of  the  eggs  should  be  used  for  garnishing  the  salad. 
Average  Cost. — sd.  or  6d. 

2447.— SALAD  DRESSING.     (Another  way.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  tablespoonful  of  boiled  potato,  i  tabLespoonful  of 
salad-oil  or  thick  cream,  £  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  i  saltspoonful 
of  sugar,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  potato,  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  smoothly  together, 
add  the  oil  gradually,  and  when  perfectly  smooth  stir  in  the  vinegar, 
drop  by  drop,  and  use  as  required. 

Average  Cost. — 2d. 

2448.— SALAD  DRESSING,  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
\  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  i  saltspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  \  a 
saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  mustard,  salt  and  sugar  smoothly  together,  stir 
in  the  cream,  add  the  vinegar,  drop  by  drop,  and  use  as  required. 

Average  Cost. — 6d. 

2449.— SALAD  DRESSING,  PARISIAN. 

Ingredients. — The  yolks  of  3  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  yolks  of  2  raw  eggs, 
5  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream,  i  dessert- 
spoonful each  of  finely-chopped  onion,  chervil,  and  chives,  i  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Method. — Bruise  the  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
mix  with  them  the  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  raw  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir 
"until  thick  and  perfectly  smooth.  Stir  in,  drop  by  drop,  first  the  salad- 
oil  and  then  the  vinegar,  and  when  ready  to  use,  add  the  cream,  onion, 
chervil,  and  chives.  The  whites  of  the  eggs  should  be  added  to  the 
salad;  the  raw  whites  might  be  poached,  and  used  as  garnishing. 

Average  Cost. — About  is.  6d. 

2450.— VINAIGRETTE  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  pickled  gherkin,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  shallots,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  above  ingredients  well  together,  and  use  as  requir. •«.!. 

Average  Cost. — 8d, 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1113 


Sandwiches. 


2451.— ADELAIDE  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cooked  chicken  and  ham,  white  bread,  curry-butter. 

Method. — Cut  the  chicken  and  ham  into  very  thin  slices,  and  remove 
all  skin,  gristle,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  fat.  Prepare  some  thin 
slices  of  bread,  spread  with  curry-butter  No.  2467,  add  next  a  slice 
of  ham,  then  a  layer  of  chicken,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt,  and  cover 
with  bread  and  butter.  Press  well  to  make  the  parts  adhere  firmly 
together,  trim  away  the  crusts,  and  cut  into  4  triangles.  Dish  neatly 
on  a  folded  serviette,  and  garnish  with  watercress  or  parsl 

2452.— ALEXANDRA  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — J  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  chicken  or  game,  J  of  a  Ib.  of 
finely-chopped  ham,   i   tablespoonful  of  mushrooms  cut  into  d: 
tablespoonful  of  truffles  cut  into  dice,  £  an  oz.  of  meat  glaze,  i  or  2 
sheets  of  gelatine,  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  233),  salt  and  pepper, 
bread,  creamed  or  watercress  butter. 

Method.— Put  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sauce,  the  glaze  and 
gelatine  into  a  stewpan,  and  when  the  whole  is  reduced  to  a  liquid 
state  add  the  chicken  or  game,  ham,  mushroom,  and  tnjfiles.  Season 
to  taste,  stir  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot,  then  turn  into  a  square 
mould.  When  cold  cut  into  thin  slices,  place  them  between  slices  of 
bread  and  butter,  trim  the  edges  neatly,  and  cut  into  4  triangles  or 
squares. 

2453.— ANCHOVY  AND  EGG  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — 10  anchovies,  3  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  butter,  cayenne,  white  or  brown  bread, 
curry-butter,  No.  2467. 

Method. — Wash  and  bone  the  anchovies,  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
with  the  yolks  of  eggs,  cheese,  as  much  butter  as  is  needed  to  moisten 
the  whole,  and  a  little  cayenne.  Prepare  some  thin  slices  of  bread 
and  curry-butter,  spread  half  of  them  with  the  preparation,  cover 
with  the  remainder,  and  press  these  well  together.  Next  trim  the  edges 
neatly,  and  cut  them  into  triangles  or  any  shape  preferred.  Dish 
on  a  folded  serviette  or  lice  paper,  and  serve  garnished  with 
watercress  or  parsley. 


HI4  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2454.— ANCHOVY  BUTTER.  (Fr.— Beurre  d'Anchois.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  lb.  of  fresh  butter,  6  anchovies,  Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  bone  the  anchovies,  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
until  smooth,  using  a  little  butter  to  facilitate  the  pounding,  then  rub 
them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Mix  with  them  the  rest  of  the  butter,  and 
add  a  little  Krona  pepper  to  deepen  the  red  hue  of  the  fish.  Anchovy 
essence  or  paste  may  be  used  instead  of  anchovies,  but  the  flavour  of  the 
preparation  is  not  nearly  so  good,  although  when  thus  prepared  it 
answers  ordinarily  as  an  adjunct  to  other  substances.  Lobster,  sar- 
dine, prawn,  and  shrimp  butter  may  be  made  by  pounding  the  fish  until 
smooth,  adding  butter  gradually  until  the  preparation  is  sufficiently 
moist  to  be  easily  spread.  When  pungency  is  desired,  it  may  be 
obtained  by  adding  curry-powder  and  paprika  pepper,  or  cayenne; 
and  when  less  highly  seasoned  preparations  are  preferred,  the  mild, 
agreeably-flavoured  Krona  pepper  should  be  employed. 

2455.— ANCHOVY    AND     HADDOCK  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  smoked  haddock,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  anchovy  paste,  cayenne  pepper,  creamed  butter, 
or  mayonnaise  sauce,  white  or  brown  bread. 

Method. — If  possible,  pound  the  fish,  butter  and  anchovy  paste  in  a 
mortar  until  smooth;  if  not,  work  them  well  together,  using  a  wooden 
spoon  and  basin  for  the  purpose.  When  a  smooth  soft  paste  is  ob- 
tained, season  to  taste,  and  spread  the  mixture  on  thin  slices  of  bread. 
Cover  an  equal  number  of  slices  thickly  with  creamed  butter  or  mayon- 
naise sauce  No.  201,  and  press  the  parts  firmly  together.  Trim 
neatly,  cut  into  circles,  squares  or  triangles,  and  serve  on  a  folded 
serviette  garnished  with  watercress  or  parsley. 

2456.— BEEF  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cold  roast  beef,  tomato,  cucumber  or  cress,  mustard  or 
curry-butter,  white  bread,  salt. 

Method. — Spread  thin  slices  of  bread  with  mustard  or  curry-butter 
(see  No.  2467),  cover  £  of  them  with  thinly  sliced  beef,  add  slices 
of  tomato,  cucumber,  or  watercress  leaves,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  vinegar.  Cover  with  buttered  bread,  press  well  together,  trim  and 
cut  into  squares  or  triangles.  Variety  may  be  obtained  by  spreading 
the  bread  with  creamed  butter  No.  2465,  and  adding  a  thin  layer  ol 
horseradish  sauce  to  the  beef  instead  of  tomato  or  cucumber  (see 
Sauces). 

2457.— BLOATER  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients.— 2  or  3  bloaters,  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  white  or  brown 
bread,  watercress-butter. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1115 

Method. — Grill  or  fry  the  bloaters,  remove  all  the  skin  and  bone,  and 
chop  them  finely.  If  available,  pound  them  in  a  mortar  until  smooth; 
otherwise  beat  well,  and  add  butter  until  a  soft  smooth  paste  is  formed. 
Pass  through  a  wire  sieve,  season  to  taste,  spread  on  thin  slices  of 
bread,  and  cover  with  bread  coated  thickly  with  watercress-butter 
No. 2492.  Trim  away  the  crusts,  and  cut  into  circles,  squares  or  triangles. 

2458.— CAVIAR  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Astrakhan  caviar,  creamed  butter,  lemon-juice,  cayenne 
pepper. 

Method.— Prepare  some  thin  slices  of  bread,  spread  them  lightly  with 
caviar,  sprinkle  with  lemon-juice  and  a  little  cayenne.  Have  ready  an 
equal  number  of  slices  of  bread  and  creamed  butter  No.  2465,  cover, 
press  lightly  together,  trim,  and  cut  into  square,  triangular,  or  finger- 
shaped  pieces.  These  sandwiches  may  be  varied  by  using  lobster, 
prawn,  or  shrimp-  butter,  any  of  which  flavours  combine  agreeably 
with  that  of  caviar. 

2459.— CELERY  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients.  --Very  finely  shredded  celery,  cream,  salt  and  pepper, 
thin  slices  of  buttered  white  bread. 

Method. — Moisten  the  celery  slightly   with   cream,   season    to 
place  a  thin  layer  between  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  and  s< •< 

2460.— CHEESE  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  butter,  anchovy-essence  or 
paste,  white  or  brown  bread,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Grate  the  cheese  finely,  then  either  pound  or  work  it  until 
smooth  with  a  little  seasoning,  anchovy-essence  or  paste,  and  as  much 
butter  as  is  needed  to  form  the  whole  into  a  soft  paste.  Have  ready 
some  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  spread  the  cheese  preparation  on 
}  of  them,  cover  with  the  remainder,  press  well,  trim,  and  cut  into  the 
d  shape. 

2461.— CHICKEN  MAYONNAISE  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cold  cooked  chicken  or  ham,  mayonnaise  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No.  201  ,  watercress,  or  mustard  and  cress,  farthing  rolls. 

Method.  d  dry  the  cress  thoroughly,  and  remove  the  stalks. 

Shn-d  th<-  •  hit. ken  and  ham  finely,  season  with  pepper,  and  moisten 
with  mayonnaise  sauce.  Scoop  the  crumb  from  the  rolls,  put  in  a  little 
of  the  chicken  mixture,  add  a  layer  of  cress,  then  a  little  more  chicken 
mix  tun-,  and  replace  the  lid.  Sandwiches  of  this  description  are  suit- 


Iii6  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

able  for  picnics  or  any  occasion  when  there  is  the  possibility  of  the 
slices  of  bread  becoming  dry.  Nearly  all  the  mixtures  for  spreading 
on  bread  may  be  used  as  a  filling  for  rolls. 

2462.— CHICKEN  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cooked  chicken,  cooked  ham  or  tongue,  creamed  01 
watercress  butter,  i  large  French  roll  or  white  bread. 

Method. — Select  a  roll  i  day  old,  rasp  the  crust,  but  do  not  remove 
it,  slice  thinly,  and  spread  with  butter.  Shred  the  chicken  and  ham 
or  tongue  finely,  place  a  layer  between  2  slices  of  bread  and  butter, 
and  press  well  together.  Arrange  overlapping  each  other  in  a  circle 
on  a  folded  serviette,  and  serve  garnished  with  small  salad  or  water- 
cress. 

2463.— CLENT  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cooked  veal  or  lean  pork,  pickled  gherkins,  white  bread, 
butter,  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  all  fat,  skin,  and  gristle  from  the  meat,  and  cut 
it  into  thin  slices;  also  slice  the  gherkins  as  thinly  as  possible.  Prepare 
some  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  lay  on  the  meat,  season  with  salt 
(unless  already  salted),  on  the  top  place  slices  of  gherkin,  sprinkle  with 
pepper  and  cover  with  more  bread  and  butter.  Press  well,  trim  neatly, 
and  cut  into  squares  or  triangles. 

2464.— COD'S  ROE  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cod's  roe  and  liver,  brown  bread,  butter,  essence  of 
anchovy,  i  finely-chopped  small  onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Fry  the  onion  in  -£  an  oz.  of  butter  until  lightly  browned, 
add  the  roe  and  liver,  cut  up  small,  the  parsley  and  seasoning  to  taste. 
Stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  pound,  sieve,  and  spread  it 
when  cold  on  brown  bread  and  butter.  Press  well,  trim,  and  cut  into 
circles,  squares  or  triangles.  Dish  tastefully,  and  serve  garnished  with 
watercress  or  parsley. 

2465.-  CREAMED  BUTTER  FOR  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  fresh  butter,  i  gill  of  cream,  mustard,  salt  and 
pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  whip  the  cream  stiffly,  then  add 
it  lightly  to  the  butter,  and  season  to  taste  with  mustard,  salt,  pepper 
or  cayenne. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1117 

2466.— CUCUMBER  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. —  i  large  cucumber,  creamed  butter,  white  or  brown 
bread,  salad-oil,  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  cucumber,  slice  it  thinly,  season  liberally  with  salt, 

drain  on  a  hair  sieve  for  i  hour,  and  dry  thoroughly.     Now  put  it  into 

a  basin  and  sprinkle  with  pepper,  salad-oil,  lemon-juice,  or  vinegar, 

liberally   or   otherwise   according  to   taste.     Have   ready   some    thin 

slices  of  bread  and  butter,  stamp  out  some  rounds  of  suitable  size,  place 

slices  of  cucumber  between  2  rounds  of  bread,  and  press  the  parts  well 

icr.     Dish  slightly  overlapping  each  other  in  a  circle  on  a  folded 

tte,  and  serve  garnished  with  parsley. 

2467.— CURRY  BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  i  heaped  teaspoonful  of  curry- 
powder,  |  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt  to  taste. 

Method.— Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  stir  in  the  curry-powder 
and  lemon-juice,  and  add  salt  to  taste. 


2468.— EGG  AND  CHUTNEY  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Hard-boiled  eggs,  chutney,  white  or  brown  bread, 
butter. 

Method. — Boil  the  eggs  as  directed  in  the  following  recipe,  shred  tin- 
whites  of  the  eggs  or  chop  them  coarsely,  crush  the  yolks  with  a  wooden 

i,  and  add  chutney  gradually  until  a  moist  paste  is  obt. 
Prepare  some  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  spread  £  of  them  \\nli 
the  e^rg  mixture,  add  a  thin  layer  of  white  of  egg,  and  cover  with  more 
bread  and  butter.     Press  well,  trim,  and  cut  into  desired  shapes. 

2469.— EGG  AND  GHERKIN  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — 3  hard  boiled  eggs,  i  or  2  pickled  gherkins,  butter, 
\\  hue  or  brown  bread,  creamed  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  eggs  for  15  minutes,  let  them  remain  in  water  until 

cold,  then  remove  the  shells,  and  chop  the  whites  finely.     If 

available,  pound  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  in  a  mortar  with  sufficient  butter 

to  form  a  moist  paste.      Or,  work  together  in  a  basin  until  smooth 

and  moist,  then  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.     Spread  some 

thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter  with  the  yolk  of  egg  preparation,  sprinkle 

lightly  with  chopped  white  of  egg,  and  add  a  few  very  thin  strips  of 

Kherkin.     Cover   with   more   bread   and   butter,   press   well    together, 

trim  oil  the  crusts,  and  cut  into  circles,  squares,  or  triangles.     Dish 

<>n  a  fold-  ,1  nd  serve  garnished  with 


ni8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2470.— EGG  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Fresh  eggs,  watercress,  or  mustard  and  cress,  white  or 
brown  bread,  butter,  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  eggs  for  15  minutes,  then  crack  the  shells,  and  leave 
the  eggs  in  water  until  quite  cold.  When  ready,  shell,  slice  them  thinly, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  sprinkle  lightly  with  oil  and  vinegar 
mixed  in  equal  proportions.  Let  them  remain  for  15  minutes,  then  turn 
them  carefully  and  season  and  sprinkle  as  before.  Meanwhile  wash  and 
dry  the  cress  thoroughly,  and  season  it  with  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 
Cut  some  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  spread  £  of  them  with  the 
prepared  eggs  and  the  rest  with  cress,  press  them  firmly  together,  trim 
away  the  crust,  and  cut  into  shape.  Dish  them  neatly  on  a  folded 
serviette,  garnished  with  small  salad  or  watercress. 

2471.— FOIE  GRAS  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  or  terrine  of  foie  gras,  bread,  butter. 

Method. — Prepare  some  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  on  £  of  them 
spread  slices  of  foie  gras,  and  cover  with  the  remainder.  Press  the 
parts  firmly  together,  trim  the  edges  neatly,  and  cut  them  into  square, 
triangular,  or  finger-shaped  pieces.  Arrange  them  neatly  on  a  daintily 
covered  dish,  and  garnish  with  watercress  or  parsley. 

2472.— FOIE   GRAS   SANDWICHES,    IMITATION. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  calf's  liver,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  bacon,  i  small  carrot, 
i  small  onion,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  salt  and 
pepper,  nutmeg,  bread,  butter. 

Method. — Cut  the  bacon  and  liver  into  small  pieces,  and  slice  the 
carrot  and  onion  thinly.  Fry  the  bacon  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  put 
in  the  liver,  carrot,  onion,  herbs,  and  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Season 
to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  cook  gently  for  about  10  minutes,  then 
pound  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  and  rub  through  a  wire  sieve.  Now 
add  the  butter  or  cream  gradually  until  a  soft  paste  is  obtained,  spread 
it  rather  thickly  between  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  press  well  together, 
trim,  and  cut  into  round,  triangular,  or  finger-shaped  pieces.  Dish 
neatly  on  a  serviette  garnished  with  small  salad,  watercress,  or  parsley. 

2473.— GREEN  BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  i-J-  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped 
washed  parsley,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  anchovy  essence 
or  paste,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  the  parsley,  lemon-juice, 
and  anchovy-essence  or  paste  to  taste,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  when  thoroughly  mixed,  use  as  required. 


fcECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  nrc, 

2474.— GRUYERE  CHEESE  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Gruyere  cheese,  white  bread,  butter,  French  mustard, 
Krona  pepper,  white  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  spread  them  lightly 
with  French  mustard,  cover  with  thinly-sliced  or  grated  Gruyere  cheese, 
and  season  with  the  2  kinds  of  pepper.  Cover  with  more  bread  and 
butter,  press  firmly  together,  trim  off  the  crusts,  and  cut  into  square, 
triangular,  or  finger-shaped  pieces. 

2475.— HAM  BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  lean  cooked  ham,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  tablespoonful  of  thick  cream,  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Pound  the  ham  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  gradually 
a  little  butter.  Pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  work  in  the  cream  and  the 
rest  of  the  butter,  season  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 

2476.— MUSTARD  BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  made  must. ml. 
salt. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  mix  in  the  mustard,  and 
add  salt  to  taste. 

2477.-OLIVE     SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients.  —Olives,  crearn,  pepper,  thin  i  bread  and  butter. 

Method. — Stone,  chop  and  pound  the  olives  finely,  adding  a  little 
cream  from  time  to  time.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper,  pass  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  spread  rather  thickly  on  bread  and  butter.  < 
with  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  press  firmly,  trim  away  the  crusts. 
and  divide  them  into  triangles  or  squares.  Serve  garnished  with 
cress  or  parsley. 

Time. — I  hour.  Average  Cost. —  is.  to  is.  jd.  for  one  small  dish. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2478.— OYSTER       SANDWICHES.         (Sandwich     de 
Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — 12  oysters  finely  chopped,  £  an  or.  of  butter,  i  teaspoon- 
ful of  very  fine  breadcrumbs,  2  tablespoon fu Is  of  cream,  |  a  well-beaten 
egg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — Stir  the  ingredients  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  turn 
the  preparation  into  a  small  mould,  and,  when  cold,  slice  thinly,  and 
serve  between  very  thin  well-buttered  brown  bread. 


ii20  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2479.— POMPADOUR  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Potted  game,  chicken,  or  meat,  cream  or  creamed 
butter,  i  hard-boiled  egg,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
lobster  coral  or  Krona  pepper,  aspic  jelly,  or  clarified  butter,  white 
bread. 

Method. — Rub  the  yolk  of  the  egg  through  a  sieve,  and  chop  the  white 
finely.  Reduce  the  potted  meat  to  a  soft  paste  by  means  of  vigorous 
beating  and  the  addition  of  a  little  cream  or  creamed  butter,  and,  if 
necessary,  add  seasoning,  and  flavour  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon- juice, 
anchovy-essence,  mushroom  ketchup,  or  other  suitable  ingredient. 
Cut  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter  into  rounds  about  2  inches  in 
diameter,  place  a  layer  of  the  preparation  between  2  of  them,  and 
press  well  together.  Have  ready  some  cold  liquid  aspic  jelly  or  clarified 
butter  on  the  point  of  setting,  brush  the  sandwiches  over  lightly,  and 
sprinkle  an  equal  number  with  parsley,  white  of  egg,  yolk  of  egg,  and 
lobster  coral  or  Krona  pepper.  Serve  tastefully  arranged  on  a  folded 
serviette  or  dish  paper. 

2480.— PRINCESS  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  cooked  chicken,  3  ozs.  of  cooked  ham  or  tongue, 
i  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese,  2  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  oil,  vinegar, 
mustard,  salt  and  pepper,  white  bread,  butter. 

Method. — Chop  the  chicken  and  ham  finely,  pound  them  in  a  mortar 
with  the  cheese  and  yolks  of  eggs,adding  vinegar,mustard,salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  and  as  much  oil  as  is  needed  to  moisten  the  whole.  Place  the 
preparation  between  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  press  well,  trim 
neatly,  and  cut  into  circles,  squares,  triangles  or  fingers,  as  may  be 
preferred. 

2481.— ROLLED  SANDWICHES.(Fr.-Tartines  roulees,) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  chicken,  2  ozs.  of  finely- 
chopped  ham  or  tongue,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No.  201),  brown  bread. 

Method. — Pound  the  chicken  and  ham  or  tongue  in  a  mortar  until 
smooth,  adding  a  little  liquid  butter  to  facilitate  the  process.  Season 
to  taste,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  stir  in  the  mayonnaise  sauce. 
Cut  some  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  trim  off  the  crusts,  spread  them 
with  this  preparation,  roll  up  firmly,  wrap  them  lightly  in  a  clean  cloth, 
and  let  them  remain  in  a  cool  place  for  i  hour.  Dish  them  daintily 
on  a  folded  serviette  or  lace  paper,  and  serve  garnished  with  small 
cress. 

2482.— SALAD  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Lettuce,  watercress,  mustard  and  cress,  mayonnaise 
sauce,  No.  201,  white  or  brown  bread,  butter,  salt. 


SANDWICHES 


ind  Ham  Sandwiches.       j.  Cliche  Sandwiches.       3.  Cucumber  Sundu 

OO 


SANDWICHES, 


i.  Egg  Sandwiches. 
76 


2.  Chicken  Sandwiches.         3.  Anchovy  Sandwiches. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1121 

Method.— Wash  and  dry  the  lettuce  and  cress  thoroughly,  then  shred 
the  lettuce  finely,  remove  the  stalks  from  the  cress,  season  with  salt, 
and  mix  with  the  mayonnaise  sauce.  Place  a  layer  of  this  preparation 
between  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  press  them  well  together, 
trim  away  the  crusts,  and  cut  into  desired  shapes. 

2483.— SALMON  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cold  boiled  salmon,  prepared  cucumber  (see  Cucumber 
Sandwiches,  No.  2466),  mayonnaise  or  tartare  sauce,  bread,  butter. 

Method. — Cover  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter  with  salmon  separated 
into  very  small  flakes,  add  a  thin  layer  of  mayonnaise  or  tartare  sauce, 
and  on  the  top  place  slices  of  cucum!  r  with  more  bread  and 

butter,  press  well  together,  trim,  and  cut  into  shape.  Other  kinds  of 
fish  may  be  used  in  this  manner,  or  they  may  be  pounded  and  passed 
through  a  sieve.  Tomato,  lettuce,  or  cress  may  replace  the  cucumber, 
and  any  suitable  thick  sauce  may  be  substitued  for  the  mayonnaise. 

2484.— SARDINE  AND  TOMATO  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  sardines,  2  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  2  or  3  firm 
tomatoes,  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  white  or  brown 
bread,  butter. 

Method. — Skin  and  bone  the  sardines,  and  split  them  in  halves. 
Pass  the  tomatoes  and  yolks  of  eggs  through  a  fine  sieve,  mix  with  them 
a  little  butter,  add  the  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  and  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Prepare  some  fingers  of  bread,  spread  them  with  the  tomatd 
preparation;  on  the  top  place  £  a  sardine,  and  cover  with  fingers  of 
bread  and  butter.  Press  well  together,  and  dish  tastefully  on  a  folded 
serviette  garnished  with  parsley. 

2485.— SARDINE   BUTTER   SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  sardines,  i  or  2  French  rolls,  butter,  lemon-juice, 
Krona  pepper,  white  pepper. 

Method. — Skin  and  bone  the  sardines,  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve, 
add  lemon-juice,  Krona  pepper,  and  white  pepper  to  taste,  and  work 
them  to  a  soft  paste  with  a  little  butte'r.  Rasp  the  rolls  well,  but  do  not 
remove  the  crusts;  cut  them  into  thin  slices,  spread  them  with  the  fish 
preparation,  and  roll  up  lightly.  If  convenient  wrap  them  compactly 
in  a  clean  cloth,  and  let  them  remain  in  a  cold  place  for  i  hour  before 
serving. 

2486.— SEFTON  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  sardines,  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  lemon- 
juice  or  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt,  white  or  brown  bread,  creamed 
butter  No.  2465. 

o  o 


H22        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Skin  and  bone  the  sardines,  pound  them  with  an  equal 
amount  of  cheese  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  seasoning  and 
lemon-juice  or  vinegar  to  taste,  and  as  much  cream  or  milk  as  is  needed 
to  moisten  the  whole,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  a  layer  of 
this  preparation  between  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  press  well, 
trim,  and  cut  into  desired  shapes. 


2487.— SPANISH  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Finely-chopped  cooked  chicken,  anchovies,  hard-boiled 
yolks  of  eggs,  Spanish  olives,  brown  bread,  butter. 

Method. — Wash  and  bone  the  anchovies,  and  divide  them  into  small 
fillets;  rub  the  yolks  of  eggs  through  a  sieve,  and  chop  the  olives  finely. 
Cut  slices  of  brown  bread  and  butter  into  rounds  about  2  inches  in 
diameter,  on  half  of  them  place  fillets  of  anchovy,  add  a  thin  layer  of 
chopped  chicken,  and  on  the  top  sprinkle  a  little  prepared  yolk  of  egg 
and  olives.  Cover  with  rounds  of  bread  and  butter,  press  well  together, 
and  dish  daintily. 


2488.— SPORTSMAN'S  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cold  game,  chicken  or  meat,  white  bread,  plain  or 
creamed  butter,  Tartare  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  213),  French  mustard. 

Method. — Toast  some  £-inch  slices  of  bread  lightly,  split  them,  and 
butter  the  plain  sides.  On  half  of  them  place  thin  slices  of  game, 
chicken,  or  meat,  spread  on  a  little  tartare  sauce  seasoned  with  French 
mustard,  and  cover  with  more  bread  and  butter.  Press  well,  trim 
neatly,  and  cut  into  squares.  If  to  be  packed,  wrap  them  in  lettuce 
leaves,  and  finally  in  greaseproof  paper. 


2489.— ST.  JAMES'S  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Puff -paste,  finely-chopped  cooked  game  or  chicken, 
finely-chopped  ham  or  tongue,  cream,  butter,  lemon-juice,  salt  and 
pepper,  i  egg. 

Method. — Roll  the  paste  out  to  about  J  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and 
cut  it  into  oblong  shapes  2^  inches  long  and  i£  inches  wide.  Brush 
them  over  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  While  they  are 
cooking  moisten  the  game  or  chicken,  etc.,  with  a  little  butter  and  cream, 
add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper. 
When  the  paste  is  ready  remove  the  tops  with  a  sharp  knife,  scoop 
out  the  soft  inside,  and  fill  with  the  preparation.  Brush  the  edges  over 
with  white  of  egg,  replace  the  tops,  and  return  to  the  oven  for  a  few 
minutes  to  set  the  filling  and  seal  the  edges.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 


RECIPES  FOR  SALADS,  ETC.  1123 

2490.— SWEDISH  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Cream  cheese,  \  a  gill  of  mayonnaise  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No. 
201),  i  gherkin,  6  olives,  i  teaspoonful  of  capers,  bread,  butter,  Krona 
pepper . 

Method. — Chop  the  gherkin,  olives,  and  capers  finely,  and  mix  with 
them  the  mayonnaise  sauce.  Cut  some  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter, 
spread  half  of  them  with  the  preparation,  and  the  remainder  with  cream 
cheese.  Press  one  of  each  kind  well  together,  arrange  them  tastefully 
on  a  folded  serviette  or  dish  paper,  and  serve  garnished  with  small  salad 
or  watercress. 

249I.  —TOMATO  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Ripe  firm  tomatoes,  creamed  butter,  white  or  brown 
bread,  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  Pour  boiling  water  over  the  tomatoes,  let  them  remain 
immersed  for  2  minutes,  then  drain  and  cover  with  cold  water.  Allow 
them  to  become  quite  cold,  dry  well,  remove  the  skins  and  slice  thinly. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  sprinkle  with  lemon-juice  or  vinegar, 
sparingly  or  otherwise,  according  to  taste.  Have  ready  some  thin 
slices  of  bread  and  butter,  stamp  out  some  rounds  of  suitable  size,  place 
slices  of  tomato  between  2  rounds  of  bread,  and  press  well  to  make  the 
parts  adhere  firmly  together.  Serve  on  a  daintily-covered  dish  gar- 
nished with  small  salad  or  watercress. 

2492.— WATERCRESS  BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  2  or  3  bunches  of  watercress, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  all  the  stalks,  wash,  drain,  and  dry  the  leaves 
thoroughly,  chop  them  as  finely  as  possible,  then  work  the  butter  in 
gradually,  and  season  to  taste.  Watercress  butter  will  be  found  a 
great  improvement  to  sandwiches  made  of  such  simple  substances  as 
chicken,  eggs,  etc.,  the  delicate  flavour  of  which  would  be  overpowered 
by  the  addition  of  more  highly  seasoned  preparations. 


PRESERVES,  JAMS, 

PICKLES,  AND  STORE 

SAUCES 


CHAPTER    XXXVI 

From  the  nature  of  vegetable  substances,  and  chiefly  from  their  not  passing 
so  rapidly  into  a  decomposed  state  as  animal  substances,  the  method 
of  preserving  them  is  somewhat  different,  although  the  general  prin- 
ciples are  the  same.  All  the  methods  of  preservation  are  put  in  prac- 
tice occasionally  for  fruits  and  the  various  parts  of  vegetables,  according 
to  the  nature  of  the  species,  the  climate,  the  uses  to  which  they  are 
applied,  etc.  Some  are  dried,  as  nuts,  raisins,  sweet  herbs,  etc. ;  others 
are  preserved  by  means  of  sugar,  as,  for  example,  many  fruits  whose 
delicate  juices  would  be  lost  by  drying;  some  are  preserved  by  means 
of  vinegar,  and  chiefly  used  as  condiments  or  pickles;  a  few  also  by 
salting,  as  French  beans;  while  others  are  preserved  in  spirits.  \Ye 
have  in  this  place  to  treat  of  the  best  methods  of  preserving  fruits. 
Fruit  is  a  most  important  item  in  the  daily  dietary;  therefore,  when  we 
cannot  obtain  it  fresh,  we  must  have  it  preserved.  It  has  long  been 
a  desideratum  to  preserve  fruits  by  some  cheap  method  to  keep  them 
fit  for  the  various  culinary  purposes,  as  making  tarts  and  other  similar 
dishes.  The  expense  of  preserving  them  with  sugar  is  a  serious  objec- 
tion. By  most  home  methods,  unless  sugar  is  used  in  considerable 
quantities,  the  success  is  very  uncertain,  and  sugar  overpowers  and 
destroys  the  sub-acid  taste  so  desirable  in  many  fruits  ;  so  that  the 
tinned  and  bottled  fresh  fruits,  now  so  common,  though  only  intro- 
duced of  recent  years,  are  a  valuable  addition  to  our  food.  Fruits 
intended  for  preservation  should  be  gathered  in  the  morning,  in  dry 
weather,  with  the  morning  sun  upon  them  if  possible  ;  they  then  have 
their  fullest  flavour,  and  keep  in  good  condition  longer  than  when 
gathered  at  any  other  time.  Until  fruit  can  be  used,  it  should  be  placed 
in  the  dairy,  an  ice-house  or  a  refrigerator.  In  an  ice-house  it  will 
remain  fresh  and  plump  for  several  days.  Fruit  gathered  in  wet 
or  foggy  weather  will  soon  mildew,  and  be  of  no  service  for  pre- 
serves unless  it  is  used  immediately  and  very  thoroughly  boiled,  when 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1125 

it  may  be  made  into  preserve  or  jam  that  will  keep,  though  of  course 
of  inferior  quality.  There  is  no  mistake  more  common  than  to  suppose 
that  any  half-ripe  or  over-ripe  fruit  is  good  enough  for  jam. 

Sugar  for  Preserving. — Of  the  various  kinds  of  sugar  in  common  use, 
the  white  refined  lump  is  generally  sold  for  preserving,  and,  indeed, 
is  the  only  kind  admissible  for  the  more  delicate  kinds  of  preserves. 
Coarse  brown  sugar  conceals  the  flavour  of  any  fruit,  and  the  whiter 
moist  sugar  has  little  sweetening  power.  Crystallized  Demerara  makes 
good  preserves,  is  very  sweet,  seldom  adulterated,  and  is  less  expensive 
than  lump  sugar,  so  that  for  common  household  preserves  it  is  very 
suitable.  A  well-known  writer  says:  "  Sugar-candy  is  the  purest  form 
of  sugar;  white  loaf  sugar  comes  next;  then  the  pale,  dry,  large-grained 
crystallized  sugars;  while  all  the  moist  sugars  are  of  inferior  purity, 
invariably  containing  not  only  water  and  uncrystallizable  sugar,  but 
also  mineral  and  organic  compounds.  They  are  not  infrequently 
infested  by  a  small  insect,  the  sugar-mite,  many  thousands  of 
which  have  been  detected  in  a  single  pound  of  brown  sugar."  Cane- 
sugar  and  grape-sugar,  otherwise  known  as  sucrose  and  glucose,  are 
obtained  from  various  sources.  Most  of  the  cane-sugar  consumed  in 
England  is  actually  produced  from  the  sugar-cane,  but  of  beet-root  sugar 
there  is  much  in  the  market,  and  in  America  sugar  is  produced  from  the 
maple,  from  maize,  and  from  the  "  sugar  grass."  From  a  chemical  point 
of  view  they  are  the  same,  and  from  a  culinary  one  nearly  so,  though 
inference  in  sweetening  power  and  in  crystallization  undoubtedly 
affect  flavours.  Grape-sugar  abounds  in  grapes  and  in  many  other  f r u  i  t  s . 
and  it  may  also  be  manufactured.  It  does  not  crystallize  as  cane- 
sugar  does,  and  is  not  nearly  so  sweet,  so  that  the  admixture  of  grape 
with  cane-sugar  is  an  adulteration  greatly  to  the  disadvantage  of  the 
purchaser,  though  in  no  way  unwholesome.  Jams  made  with  pure 
cane-sugar  are  apt  to  crystallize,  or  become  granular;  to  prevent  this 
glucose  is  added.  If  only  a  small  proportion  is  used,  it  can  hardly 
be  considered  an  adulterant.  When  a  strong  solution  of  sugar  is  allowed 
to  solidify  slowly  and  undisturbed,  it  deposits  large  crystals,  such  as 
we  see  in  sugar-candy:  if  it  is  agitated  the  crystals  are  small,  as  in  loaf 
sugar.  But  if  the  solution  is  heated  up  to  a  certain  point  it  does  not 
crystallize  any  more,  but  settles  into  a  solid  transparent  mass  which 
we  know  as  barley  sugar,  so  called  because  the  old  confectioners  found 
that  its  return  to  the  crystalline  condition  took  place  less  quickly  it 
boilrd  in  barley  water  instead  of  water  only.  Any  acid  or  muci- 
laginous matter  helps  forward  the  production  of  this  particular  form 
ir.  When  su.i^ar  is  heated  to  about  400°  F.  it  decomposes,  loses 
i>f  crystallizing  and  fermenting,  and  acquires  a  dark-brown 
colour  and  a  bitter  flavour.  This  form  of  sugar  is  known  as  caramel; 
it  is  lu-au-d  beyond  this  stage  it  becomes  burnt  and  unfit  for  use. 

Syrup  for  Preserving. — Having  secured  the  most  important  contribu- 
tions to  the  manufacture  of  preserves,  the  fruit  and  the  sugar,  the  next 


U26  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

consideration  is  the  preparation  of  the  syrup  in  which  the  fruit  is  to  be 
suspended;  and  this  requires  much  care.  In  the  confectioner's  art 
there  is  a  great  nicety  in  proportioning  the  degree  of  concentration 
of  the  syrup  very  exactly  to  each  particular  case;  and  they  know  this 
by  signs,  and  express  it  in  certain  technical  terms.  But  to  distin- 
guish these  properly  requires  very  great  attention  and  considerable 
experience.  The  principal  thing  to  be  acquainted  with  is  the  fact  that, 
in  proportion  as  the  syrup  is  longer  boiled,  the  water  contained  in  it 
will  become  evaporated,  and  its  consistency  thickened.  Great  care 
must  be  taken  in  the  management  of  the  fire,  that  the  syrup  does  not 
boil  over,  and  that  the  boiling  is  not  carried  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
burn  the  sugar.  A  solution  of  sugar  prepared  by  dissolving  2  parts 
of  double-refined  sugar  in  i  of  water,  and  boiling  this  a  little,  affords 
a  syrup  of  the  right  degree  of  strength,  which  neither  ferments  nor 
crystallizes.  This  appears  to  be  the  degree  called  smooth  or  large 
thread,  by  the  confectioners.  The  syrup  employed  should  sometimes 
be  clarified,  which  is  done  in  the  following  manner:  dissolve  2  Ibs.  of 
loaf  sugar  in  i  pint  of  water;  add  to  this  solution  the  white  of  an  egg, 
and  beat  it  well.  Put  the  preserving-pan  upon  the  fire  with  the  solu- 
tion, stir  it  with  a  wooden  spatula,  and,  when  it  begins  to  swell  and 
boil  up,  throw  in  some  cold  water  to  damp  the  boiling,  for,  as  it  rises 
suddenly,  should  it  boil  over  it  would  take  fire,  being  of  a  very  inflam- 
mable nature.  Let  it  boil  up  again;  then  take  it  off,  and  remove  care- 
fully the  scum  that  has  risen.  Boil  the  solution  again,  throw  in  a  little 
more  cold  water,  remove  the  scum,  and  so  on  for  3  or  4  times  succes- 
sively, then  strain  it.  It  is  considered  to  be  sufficiently  boiled  when 
some  taken  up  in  a  spoon  pours  out  like  oil. 

Although  sugar  passes  so  easily  into  the  state  of  fermentation,  and 
is,  in  fact,  the  only  substance  capable  of  undergoing  the  vinous  stage 
of  that  process,  yet  it  will  not  ferment  at  all  if  the  quantity  be  sufficient 
to  constitute  a  very  strong  syrup;  hence,  syrups  are  used  to  preserve 
fruits  and  other  vegetable  substances  from  the  changes  they  would 
undergo  if  left  to  themselves.  Before  sugar  was  in  use,  honey  was 
employed  to  preserve  many  vegetable  productions,  but  this  sub- 
stance has  now  given  way  to  the  juice  of  the  sugar-cane. 

The  fruits  that  are  the  most  fit  for  preservation  in  syrup  are  apricots, 
peaches,  nectarines,  apples,  greengages,  plums  of  all  kinds,  and  pears. 
As  an  example,  take  some  apricots,  not  too  ripe,  make  a  small  slit  at 
the  stem  end,  withdraw  the  stone,  simmer  them  in  water  until  about 
half  cooked,  and  afterwards  throw  them  into  cold  water.  When  they 
have  cooled,  take  them  out  and  drain  them.  Put  the  apricots  into  the 
preserving-pan  with  sufficient  syrup  to  cover  them  ;  boil  up  3  or  4 
times,  and  then  skim  well  ;  remove  them  from  the  fire,  pour  them  into 
an  earthen  pan,  and  let  them  cool  till  next  day.  Boil  them  up  3  days 
successively,  skimming  each  time,  and  they  will  soon  be  finished  and 
in  a  state  fit  to  be  put  into  pots  for  use.  After  each  boiling  the  con- 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1127 

sistency  of  the  syrup  should  be  noted  ;  if  too  thin,  it  will  bear  addi- 
tional boiling;  if  too  thick,  it  may  be  lowered  with  more  syrup  of  the 
usual  standard.  The  reason  why  the  fruit  is  emptied  out  of  the  pre- 
serving-pan into  an  earthen  pan  is,  that  the  acid  of  the  fruit  acts  upon 
the  copper  of  which  the  preserving-pans  are  usually  made.  From 
this  example  the  process  of  preserving  fruits  by  syrup  will  be  easily 
comprehended.  The  first  object  is  to  soften  the  fruit  by  blanching  or 
boiling  it  in  water,  in  order  that  the  syrup  by  which  it  is  preserved  may 
penetrate  through  its  substance. 

Fruits  Preserved  in  Syrup. — Any  of  the  fruits  that  have  been  preserved 
in  syrup  may  be  converted  into  dry  preserves,  by  first  draining  them 
from  the  syrup  and  then  drying  them  in  a  stove  or  very  moderate 
oven,  adding  to  them  a  quantity  of  powdered  loaf  sugar,  which  will 
gradually  penetrate  the  fruit,  while  the  fluid  parts  of  the  syrup  gently 
evaporate.  They  should  be  dried  in  the  stove  or  oven  on  a  sieve, 
and  turned  every  6  or  8  hours,  fresh  powdered  sugar  being  sifted  over 
them  each  time  they  are  turned.  Currants  and  cherries  may  be  pre- 
served whole  in  this  manner  in  bunches.  Orange  and  lemon  chips 
are  thus  preserved.  After  being  thoroughly  dried  they  should  be 
stored  in  air-tight  tins  in  a  cool  dry  place. 

Marmalades  and  Jams  differ  little  from  each  other:  they  are  preserves 
of  half  liquid  consistency,  made  by  boiling  the  pulp  of  fruits,  and  some- 
times part  of  the  rinds,  with  sugar.  The  term  marmalade  is  applied 
to  those  confitures  which  are  composed  of  the  firmer  fruits,  as  pine- 
apples or  the  rinds  of  oranges  ;  whereas  jams  are  made  of  the  more 
juicy  berries, such  as  strawberries,  raspberries,  currants,  mulberries,  etc. 
Jams  require  the  same  care  and  attention  in  the  boiling  as  marmalade; 
the  slightest  degree  of  burning  communicates  a  disagreeable  empyreu- 
matic  taste,  and  if  they  are  not  boiled  properly  they  will  not  keep. 
Marmalades  and  jams  are  now  so  cheap  that  they  are  within  reach  of 
the  poorest.  They  can  also  be  bought  so  good  that  there  is  little  in- 
ducement to  make  them  at  home  if  the  fruit  has  to  be  bought  or  is  dear. 
Nevertheless,  it  must  be  confessed  that  they  are  seldom  both  cheap  and 
good,  so  that  housekeepers  who  desire  both  quality  and  economy,  and 
are  not  over-anxious  to  spare  their  own  trouble,  usually  prefer  them 
home-made.  To  make  them  successfully  a  properly  constructed  pre- 
serving pan  or  maslin-kettle  is  necessary.  Formerly  these  were  com- 
posed of  solid  brass  or  copper,  and  formed  one  of  the  careful  housewife's 
most  cherished  possessions.  They  may  now  be  obtained  at  a  compara- 
tively trifling  cost  in  enamelled  iron,  but  the  objection  to  their  use  is 
that  the  syrup  boils  over  more  quickly  than  in  a  preserving  pan  made 
of  copper  or  brass,  and  moreover  it  is  more  apt  to  burn  and  stick  to  the 
bottom  of  the  pan.  A  long  wooden  spoon  or  stick  is  necessary.  The 
end  to  be  attained  is  to  boil  the  juice  of  the  fruit  to  such  a  consistency 
that  it  will  neither  ferment  nor  mildew.  Some  persons  add  a  little 
water,  others  put  only  the  fruit  in  with  the  sugar.  From  |  of  a  Ib, 


1 128  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

to  i  Ib.  of  sugar  for  each  Ib.  of  fruit  is  the  usual  amount,  but  %  a  Ib.  is 
sometimes  enough  to  preserve  the  fruit,  and  if  this  quantity  is  sufficient 
no  more  should  be  used,  as  jam  is  often  unpleasantly  sweet  with  very 
little  flavour  of  the  fruit  left.  The  methods  employed  vary  considerably; 
sometimes  the  fruit  is  boiled  a  long  time  and  slowly,  and  the  sugar 
added  towards  the  end  of  the  process;  but  more  frequently  the  sugar 
is  boiled  first  with  a  little  water,  and  the  fruit  added  afterwards  and 
boiled  from  20  to  60  minutes. 

The  latter  method  is  commonly  employed  in  manufactories  where 
time  is  money,  and  it  certainly  preserves  the  shape,  colour,  and  flavour 
of  the  fruit  better  than  the  former,  which,  however,  has  advantages 
for  some  fruits  that  require  long  stewing,  and  for  those  persons  who  find; 
it  difficult  with  the  means  at  their  disposal  to  make  the  jam  boil  as. 
thoroughly  and  completely  as  it  readily  does  in  the  maffafacturer's; 
pans,  heated  by  steam  coil  or  gas  to  the  exact  temperature  required. 

The  pots  in  which  the  jam  is  put  must  be  perfectly  dry.  and  tnc  cup- 
board in  which  they  stand  neither  so  warm  that  the  jam  ferments,, 
nor  damp  so  that  it  becomes  mouldy.  The  housekeeper  will  do  vrelfl 
to  remember  that  mould  is  a  plant  sowing  itself  by  multitudes  of  seeds,, 
so  small  that  they  penetrate  the  tiniest  crack.  It  spreads,  therefore,- 
readily  from  one  thing  to  another,  and  may  sometimes  lurk  unsuspected 
on  the  shelves  of  a  cupboard  that  is  not  well  cleansed  and  aired.  For- 
merly jam  was  allowed  to  become  quite  cold  before  being  covered, 
under  the  erroneous  belief  that  the  steam  arising  from  it  would,  if 
confined,  produce  mould.  Now  jams,  jellies,  and  marmalades  of  every 
description  are  covered  as  speedily  as  possible,  before  the  escaping 
steam  loses  its  power  to  exclude  the  air.  If  air  is  allowed  to  enter  it 
may  carry  with  it  bacteria  which  quickly  develop  into  mould,  more 
particularly  so  when  the  preserved  substances  happen  to  be  stored 
in  a  warm  damp  place  favourable  to  the  growth  of  such  organisms. 

Fruit  jellies  are  compounds  of  the  juice  of  fruit  and  sugar,  con- 
centrated by  boiling  to  such  a  consistency  that  the  liquid  upon 
cooling  assumes  the  form  of  a  jelly.  But  notwithstanding  the  resem- 
blance in  appearance  and  in  name,  this  jelly,  which  is  known  as  pectin, 
is  from  a  chemical  and  nutritive  standpoint  entirely  different  from 
gelatine,  It  is  closely  allied  to  gum,  and  has  about  the  same  food  value 
as  the  sugar  with  which  it  Is  boiled. 

Candied  or  Glace  and  Crystallized  Fruits. — Before  fruit  can  be  subjected 
to  the  final  processes  by  which  it  is  preserved  for  use  in  these  two  forms, 
it  must  first  be  boiled  in  syrup.  The  fruit  to  be  candied  or  iced  ia 
dried  before  the  fire  or  in  a  cool  oven,  the  syrup  in  which  it  was  cooked 
being  meanwhile  boiled  to  the  "  large  blow  "  degree  (see  p.  1070), 
When  the  syrup  has  cooled  a  little,  the  fruit  should  be  dipped  into  it 
until  thoroughly  coated,  and  then  dried,  when  they  will  have  a  trans- 
parent coating.  Fruit  to  be  crystallized  should,  immediately  on  ita 
removal  from  the  s)Tiup,  be  rolled  in  crushed  loaf  sugar  and  after- 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1129 

wards  dried.     Flowers,  such  as  violets,  orange  and  rose  petals,  and 
primroses,  may  be  preserved  in  this  way. 

Fruit  Pastes  consist  of  the  pulp  of  fruits,  first  evaporated  to  a  proper 
consistency,  and  afterwards  boiled  with  sugar.  The  mixture  is  then 
poured  into  a  mould,  or  spread  on  sheets  of  tin,  and  subsequently  dried 
in  the  oven  or  stove  until  it  has  acquired  the  consistency  of  a  paste. 
From  a  sheet  of  this  paste,  strips  may  be  cut  and  formed  into  any 
ishape  that  may  be  desired,  as  knots,  rings,  etc.  They  are  now  some- 
what out  of  date. 

Pickles. — Pickles  may  now  be  purchased  in  such  variety  and  so 
cheaply  that  very  few,  save  those  who  grow  vegetables  they  cannot 
utilize  in  any  other  way,  think  of  preparing  them  at  home.  Pickles 
consist  of  vegetables  and  fruits  steeped  in  vinegar  previously  boiled 
with  spices,  to  which  is  frequently  added  salt  and  sugar,  in  quantities 
varied  according  to  individual  taste.  The  chief  pickles  are  cabbage, 
cauliflower,  chillies,  gherkins,  onions,  and  walnuts.  Any  or  all  of  these, 
except  cabbage,  may  be  mixed;  one  variety  of  mixed  pickles,  highly 
seasoned  with  mustard,  is  well  known,  and  often  usefully  employed  as 
a  dressing  for  devilled  bones,  re-heating  pork,  etc.  Indian  pickles 
form  a  class  by  themselves;  they  arc  generally  thick  and  highly  spiced, 
mangoes  forming  a  general  base. 

Damsons  are  more  frequently  preserved  by  means  of  vinegar  than 
other  kinds  of  fruit,  but  the  method  is  equally  applicable  to  any  unripe 
stone-fruit. 

To  make  pickles  successfully,  the  vegetables  or  fruit  must  be  per- 
fectly dry,  fresh,  and  not  over-ripe. 

Adulteration  in  Pickles. — Sulphuric  acid  is  often  present  in  vinegar  in 
larger  amount  than  the  law  allows,  i.e.,  i  part  in  1,000,  and  it  is  very 
injurious  to  health  even  in  small  amount.  Good  vinegar  and  un- 
adulterated pickles  have  considerable  dietetic  value,  especially  in 
large  towns  and  in  those  houses  where  fresh  fruit  and  vegetables  are 
not  obtainable  all  the  year  round.  Pickles  sometimes  contain  copper, 
added  in  order  to  fix  the  chlorophyll,  or  green  colouring  matter,  in  the 
vegetables.  Most  authorities  consider  it  poisonous;  its  presence  may 
be  detected  by  a  coppery  tinge  imparted  to  the  silver  with  which  it 
comes  in  contact.  If  available,  vinegar  should  be  boiled  in  an  ena- 
melled pan,  or,  failing  this,  a  stewjar  placed  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water.  If  a  metal  pan  must  of  necessity  be  used,  one  made  of  iron  pro- 
duces the  least  injurious  effects.  Fatal  results  have  followed  the  use 
of  coppor  vessels  for  pickling  purposes. 

Vinegar. — The  active  principle  of  vinegar  is  an  acid  produced  by  the 

secondary  fermentation  of  liquids  of  vegetable  origin.     Thus  we  have 

vinegar  from  malt  liquors,  from  wine,  cider,  date  juice,  etc.     Com- 

lly,  the  three  chief  vinegars  are  derived  from  malt,  wine  and 

wood. 

Malt  vinegar  is  obtained  by  brewing  weak  wort.     To  100  gallons  of 


U30        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

this  at  70°  F.  4  gallons  of  yeast  are  added,  and  stirred  for  about  IO 
minutes.  It  is  then  allowed  to  stand  for  2  days,  and  afterwards  put 
into  tubs,  covered  with  canvas  and  placed  in  a  dark  room,  which  is 
maintained  at  a  warm  even  temperature  by  means  of  a  stove  or  stoves. 
The  tubs  are  left  thus  until  the  wort  is  converted  into  vinegar,  the 
process  being  usually  completed  in  about  3  weeks,  although  it  can  be 
hastened  by  adding  a  small  quantity  of  grape  skins  or  crushed  raisins. 
Vinegar  is  also  produced  by  inducing  long  fermentation  in  poor  quali- 
ties of  wines.  Cider  can  also  be  converted  into  vinegar  by  admitting 
air  into  the  barrels  containing  it,  and  inducing  prolonged  fermentation. 
The  acid  developed  during  fermentation  is  known  as  "  acetic,"  except 
that  derived  from  the  distillation  of  wood,  which  is  "  pyroligenous 
acid."  This  latter  variety  is  somewhat  deficient  in  flavour,  but  it  is 
perfectly  wholesome,  and  being  cheap  is  largely  employed  by  those 
who  make  pickles  in  large  quantities. 

Store  Sauces  may  be  broadly  divided  into  two  classes.  The  first 
series  comprise  such  well-known  liquid  sauces  as  Worcester,  ketch- 
up, etc.,  which  have  a  basis  of  vinegar  and  water,  while  the  second 
class  includes  tomato,  anchovy  and  other  thick  sauces. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES, 
JAMS,   PICKLES,    ETC. 

.CHAPTER    XXXVII 

Preserves,  Jams,  Pickles,  Store  Sauces,  etc. 

Preserves  and  Jams. 

2493.— APPLE  AND  BLACKBERRY  JAM. 

Ingredients. — 4  Ibs.  of  apples,  2  Ibs.  blackberries,  4^  Ibs.  of  preserving 
sugar. 

Method. — Pick  the  blackberries,  put  them  into  a  stewjar  with  i  Ib. 
of  sugar,  and  let  them  remain  thus  for  at  least  12  hours.  When  ready, 
place  the  jar  on  the  stove  or  in  a  cool  oven,  and  stew  gently  until  the 
juice  is  extracted.  Pare,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  thick  slices. 
Put  them  into  a  preserving  pan,  strain  in  the  juice,  add  the  rest  of  the 
sugar,  and  boil  gently  from  45  to  50  minutes.  Pour  into  jars,  cover 
closely,  and  store  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  14  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  per  Ib. 
Seasonable  in  October. 

2494.— APPLE  GINGER. 

Ingredients. — 5  Ibs.  of  sour  cooking  apples,  4  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  ozs. 
of  whole  ginger,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  3  lemons,  i  pint  of  cold 
water. 

Method. — Peel,  core,  and  cut  the  apples  into  quarters.  Dissolve 
2  Ibs.  of  sugar  in  i  pint  of  water,  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  skim 
well,  and  simmer  for  8  or  10  minutes.  Pour  the  syrup  over  the  pre- 
pared apples,  cover,  and  let  it  remain  thus  for  48  hours.  When  ready, 
drain  off  the  syrup  into  a  stewpan,  add  the  remaining  2  Ibs.  of  sugar, 
the  strained  juice,  and  finely-grated  rinds  of  the  lemons,  the  ginger 
bruised  and  tied  in  fine  muslin,  and  the  cayenne.  When  boiling,  add 
the  apples,  simmer  very  gently  until  they  are  soft,  but  not  broken, 
then  turn  into  jars.  Cover  at  once  with  ready-prepared  paper,  or 
paper  brushed  over  with  white  of  egg,  and  fasten  securely. 

Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.     Seasonable  in  October, 

1131 


U32  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2495.— APPLE  GINGER.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  sour  cooking  apples,  2  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  an  oz. 
of  extract  of  ginger,  i£  pints  of  water. 

Method. — Make  a  syrup  of  the  sugar  and  water,  as  directed  in  the 
preceding  recipe.  Meanwhile  peel,  core,  and  cut  each  apple  into  8 
sections,  add  them  with  the  extract  of  ginger  to  the  syrup,  and  simmer 
gently  until  soft,  but  not  broken.  Turn  into  jars,  cover  as  directed 
in  the  preceding  recipe,  and  store  in  a  cool  dry  place. 

Average   Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.     Seasonable  in  October. 

2496.— APPLE  JAM. 

Ingredients. — To  each  lb.  of  fruit,  weighed  after  being  pared,  cored 
and  sliced,  allow  f  of  a  lb.  of  preserving  sugar,  the  finely  grated  rind 
of  i  lemon,  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon. 

Method. — Choose  firm, sound  apples  of  the  same  kind;  peel,  core,  and 
cut  them  into  thick  slices.  Barely  cover  the  bottom  of  a  large  stewjar 
with  cold  water,  add  a  good  layer  of  sliced  apples,  cover  thickly  with 
sugar,  and  sprinkle  with  lemon-rind  and  lemon- juice.  Repeat  until 
all  the  materials  are  used,  cover  the  jar  closely,  place  it  on  the  stove 
or  in  a  moderate  oven,  in  a  tin  half  full  of  boiling  water,  and  stew 
gently  until  the  apples  are  tender.  If  the  preparation  appears  rather 
dry  it  may  at  once  be  put  into  the  pots;  if  not,  the  lid  must  be  removed, 
the  stewjar  taken  out  of  the  water  and  placed  on  the  stove,  and  the 
contents  boiled  and  stirred  until  the  greater  part  of  the  moisture  has 
evaporated. 

Time. — From  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  per  lb.  Seasonable 
in  October. 

2497.— APPLE  JAM.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  Ibs.  of  sour  cooking  apples,  3  Ibs.  of  preserving  sugar, 
the  finely-grated  rind  and  juice  of  2  lemons,  i  saltspoonful  of  ground 
cinnamon,  £  of  a  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  thick  slices.  Place  them 
in  a  preserving-pan,  add  the  sugar,  lemon-rind  and  juice,  cinnamon  and 
water,  and  cook  gently  until  reduced  to  a  pulp.  During  the  first  part 
of  the  process  stir  occasionally,  but  towards  the  end,  when  the  greater 
part  of  the  moisture  has  evaporated,  stir  more  frequently  to  prevent 
the  preparation  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Pour  into  jars, 
at  once  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool  dry  place.  This  jam  will 
not  keep  for  so  long  a  time  as  that  made  according  to  the  preceding 
recipe. 

Time. — From   40   to    50   minutes.     Average   Cost,    is.    8d. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1133 

2498.     APPLE  JELLY.     (Fr—  Gelee  aux  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — 10  Ibs.  of  apples,  10  pints  of  water;  to  each  pint  of  liquid 
obtained  from  these  allow  i  Ib.  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  2  lemons. 

Method. — Rub  the  apples  well  with  a  dry  cloth,  but  do  not  pare  them. 
Cut  them  into  quarters,  remove  the  cores,  and  put  them  into  a  preserving 
pan  with  the  sugar.  Simmer  until  perfectly  soft,  but  not  broken, 
then  strain  off  the  liquid  without  squeezing  the  pulp.  If  not  clear, 
pass  through  a  jelly-bag  or  clean  dry  cloth,  until  it  becomes  so.  Add 
sugar  and  lemon-juice  in  the  proportion  stated  above,  and  simmer  gently 
until  a  little,  poured  on  a  cold  plate,  almost  immediately  begins  to 
stiffen.  Pour  into  pots  or  glasses,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool 
dry  place. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes,  after  straining.  Average  Cost,  from 
45.  6d.  to  53. 

Note. — The  apple  pulp  should  be  sweetened,  flavoured  with  ginger  or 
cinnamon,  and  made  into  jam. 

2499.— APPLE  JELLY.     (Another  way.) 

Ingredients. — To  6  Ibs.  of  apples  allow  3  pints  of  water  ;  to  every  quart 
of  juice  allow  2  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar  and  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon. 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  cut  the  apples  into  slices,  and  put  them  into 
a  jar,  with  water  in  the  above  proportion.  Place  them  in  a  cool  oven, 
with  the  jar  well  covered,  and  when  the  juice  is  thoroughly  drawn  and 
the  apples  are  quite  soft,  strain  them  through  a  jelly-bag.  To  each 
quart  of  juice  allow  2  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  which  should  be  crushed  to  small 
lumps  and  put  in  the  preserving-pan  with  the  juice.  Boil  these  to- 
gether for  rather  more  than  £  an  hour,  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises, 
add  the  lemon-juice  just  before  it  is  done,  and  put  the  jelly  into  pots 
for  use. 

Time. — To  boil  after  straining,  about  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  23.  od. 

2500.— APPLE    MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  apples,  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  quarter  the  apples,  place  them  in  a  jar 
with  the  sugar  and  butter,  and  stand  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  containing 
boiling  water,  or,  when  more  convenient,  in  a  cool  oven.  Cook  until 
soft,  pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  use  for  filling  turnovers,  or  other 
kinds  of  pastry. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2d.  to  3d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable  at 
any  time. 

2501.— APPLES  IN  QUARTERS,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — 8  Ibs.  of  apples,  6  Ibs.  of  srugar,  6  pints  of  water,  the  juice 
of  4  lemons. 

Method. — Peel,  quarter  and  core  the  apples.  Place  the  apple-peeling 
and  cores  in  the  water,  add  the  sugar,  simmer  gently  for  25  minutes, 


H34  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

and  strain  until  clear.  Replace  the  syrup  in  the  pan,  add  the  apples 
and  lemon-juice,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  apples  are  tender,  but 
not  broken.  Place  them  in  jars  or  wide-necked  bottles,  pour  the 
syrup  over  them,  and  cover  the  preparation  so  as  to  completely  exclude 
the  air.  Store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  50  minutes.         Average  Cost,  35.  7d. 

2502.— APRICOT   JAM    OR   MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — Equal  weight  of  firm,  ripe  apricots  and  fine  preserving 
sugar. 

Method. — Skin  the  apricots  carefully,  break  them  in  halves  and 
remove  the  stones.  Weigh  the  fruit,  and  allow  an  equal  amount 
of  sugar.  Pile  the  apricots  on  a  large  dish,  sprinkle  each  layer  with 
sugar,  let  them  stand  for  12  hours,  and  meanwhile  remove  the  kernels 
from  the  stones  and  blanch  them.  When  ready,  place  the  fruit,  sugar 
and  kernels  in  a  preserving-pan,  simmer  very  gently,  skimming  mean- 
while, and  as  the  pieces  of  apricot  become  clear  remove  them  from  the 
syrup  and  place  them  at  once  in  the  pots.  Pour  on  the  syrup  and 
kernels/  cover  with  pieces  of  paper  dipped  in  salad-oil,  and  stretch 
over  the  tops  of  the  jars  tissue  paper,  brushed  over  with  white  of  egg. 
When  dry,  the  cover  will  be  perfectly  hard  and  air-tight. 

Time. — 12  hours,  sprinkled  with  sugar.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 
per  Ib. 

2503.— APRICOT  JELLY.     (Fr.— Gelee  d'Abricot.) 

Ingredients. — Ripe  apricots.  To  each  Ib.  of  fruit,  weighed  after  the 
stones  and  skins  are  removed,  allow  i  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar  and  the 
juice  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Remove  the  skins,  break  the  apricots  in  halves,  and  blanch 
the  kernels.  Weigh  the  fruit,  put  it  into  a  preserving-pan  with  an 
equal  amount  of  sugar,  and  add  the  prepared  kernels  and  lemon-juice. 
Simmer  gently,  stir  frequently  until  reduced  to  the  consistency  of 
thick  marmalade,  then  pour  into  small  pots.  Cover  first  with  paper 
moistened  with  salad-oil,  and  afterwards  with  tissue  paper  brushed 
over  with  white  of  egg;  store  in  a  dry  cool  place. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  per  Ib. 

2504. — APRICOTS,  TO  DRY.        (See  Greengages,   To 
Preserve  Dry,  No.  2554.) 

2505.— BARBERRIES  IN  BUNCHES. 

Ingredients. —  i   pint  of  syrup,  barberries. 

Method. — Prepare  some  small  pieces  of  clean  white  wood,  3  inches 
long  and  £  of  an  inch  wide;  tie  the  fruit  to  these  in  nice  bunches.  Have 
ready  some  clear  syrup,  Recipe  No.  2599  ;  put  in  the  barberries, 
and  simmer  them  in  it  for  \  an  hour  on  two  successive  days,  ancj 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1135 

covering  them  each  time  with  the  syrup  when  cold.  When  the  fruit  looks 
perfectly  clear  it  is  sufficiently  done,  and  should  be  stored  away  in  pots, 
with  the  syrup  poured  over.  Or,  if  preferred,  the  berries  may  be  candied 
(see  Cherries  Dried,  No.  25 1 7,  and  Greengages, to  Preserve  Dry,  No.  2554). 
Time. — £  an  hour  to  simmer,  each  day. 

25o6._ BARBERRY  JAM. 

Ingredients. — Equal  quantities  of  barberries  and  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  and  fruit  into  a  preserving-pan  and  bring 
slowly  to  boiling  point.  Boil  gently  for  about  15  or  20  minutes,  skim- 
ming well  and  stirring  frequently,  pour  into  small  pots,  cover  closely, 
and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — From  15  to  20  minutes,  after  boiling  point  is  reached.  Average 
Cost,  4d.  to  5d.  per  Ib. 

2507.— BARBERRY  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — Equal  quantities  of  ripe  barberries  and  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Wash  the  berries  in  cold  water,  and  put  them  into  a  jar 
with  a  close-fitting  lid,  place  the  jar  on  the  stove  or  in  a  moderate  oven, 
in  a  tin  |  full  of  boiling  water,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  2  hours. 
Strain  the  juice  into  a  preserving-pan,  to  each  pint  add  i  Ib.  of 
sugar,  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Boil  for  about  10  minutes,  removing 
the  scum  as  it  rises,  then  pour  into  small  pots.  Cover  at  once  with 
paper  brushed  over  with  white  of  egg. 

Time. — Altogether  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  barberries  from  4d. 
to  5d.  per  pint. 

2508.— BEETROOT  PRESERVED. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  beetroot  allow  £  a  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar, 
the  juice  of  £  a  lemon,  and  the  finely  grated  rind  of  £  of  a  lemon. 
Add  vanilla  pod  and  stick  cinnamon  to  taste. 

Method. — Peel  the  beetroots,  put  them  into  a  preserving-pan  with 
water  to  barely  cover  them,  and  boil  them  gently  for  about  20  minutes. 
Add  the  sugar  and  flavouring  ingredients,  continue  the  cooking  until 
the  beetroots  are  quite  tender,  then  drain  them  from  the  syrup,  cut 
them  into  convenient  lengths,  and  place  them  in  jars  of  suitable  size. 
Boil  the  syrup  rapidly  until  it  is  quite  thick,  skimming  when  necessary 
meanwhile,  and  pour  it  into  the  jars.  Cover  closely,  so  as  to  com- 
pletely exclude  the  air,  and  keep  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  3d.  per  Ib. 

2509.— BLACKBERRY  JAM. 

Ingredients. — Blackberries,  half  their  weight  in  sugar. 

Method. — Boil  the  blackberries  and  sugar  together  for  40  minutes. 
Cover  closely,  and  keep  in  a  dry,  cool  place.  The  jam  will  be  less 
insipid  if  a  little  lemon-juice  is  added. 

Time. — 40  minutes.     Average  cost,  blackberries,  3d.   to   5d.   per  Ib. 


H36  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2510.— BLACK  CURRANT  JAM. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  and  \  of  a 
pint  of  water. 

Method. — Remove  the  fruit,  which  should  be  ripe  and  perfectly  dry, 
from  the  stalks,  put  it  into  a  preserving-pan  with  the  water,  bring  to 
boiling  point,  and  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes.  Add  the  sugar, 
and  boil  for  about  \  an  hour  from  the  time  the  jam  re-boils,  or  until 
a  little  almost  immediately  sets  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  To- 
wards the  end  of  the  process  the  jam  must  be  stirred  almost  continu- 
ously, to  prevent  it  boiling  over  or  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 
Pour  into  pots,  at  once  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — From  50  to  60  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  or  $d.  per  Ib. 

2511.— BLACK  CURRANT  JAM.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  £  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  fruit  and  sugar  into  a  preserving-pan,  let  it  stand 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  some  of  the  juice  is  drawn  out  of  the  fruit 
and  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  bring  to  boiling  point,  stirring  occa- 
sionally meanwhile.  Boil  gently  for  about  40  minutes,  test  a  little 
on  a  plate;  if  it  stiffens  pour  at  once  into  jars,  and  cover  closely.  This 
jam,  if  made  of  sound,  dry  fruit,  and  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  will 
keep  for  a  great  length  of  time. 

Time.— About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  5d.  per  Ib. 

2512.— BLACK  CURRANT  JAM.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 8  Ibs.  of  black  currants,  4  Ibs.  of  rhubarb,  8  Ibs.  of  preserv- 
ing sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks,  pick  out  the  best  and  finest  fruit,  place 
about  6:  Ib.  of  it  on  a  large  dish  between  layers  of  sugar,  and  let  it 
remain  for  24  hours.  Put  the  remainder  of  the  currants  into  a  large 
jar,  add  the  rhubarb,  previously  peeled  and  cut  into  short  lengths, 
and  cook  in  a  slow  oven  or  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  until  all  the 
juice  is  extracted.  Of  this  juice,  take  not  less  than  i£  pints  and  not 
more  than  2  pints,  put  it  into  a  large  earthenware  pan  or  bowl,  add  the 
fruit  and  sugar,  and  let  the  whole  stand  for  24  hours  longer.  At  the 
end  of  this  time  strain  the  juice  into  a  preserving-pan,  bring  to  boiling 
point,  add  more  sugar  if  necessary,  and  boil  for  about  10  minutes. 
Now  add  the  fruit,  boil  gently  for  20  minutes,  skimming  when  necessary, 
then  turn  the  jam  into  pots,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

Time. — Altogether,  2  days.     Average  Cost,  8d.  per  Ib. 

2513.— BLACK  CURRANT  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — Black   currants,    preserving   sugar. 

Method. — Remove    the  stalks,  put   the  currants  into  a  jar  placed 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1137 

in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  simmer  until  their  juice  is  extracted. 
Strain  the  juice  into  a  preserving-pan,  to  each  pint  add  J  of  a  Ib.  of 
sugar,  and  boil  gently  until  the  jelly  stiffens,  when  a  little  is  tested  on 
a  cold  plate.  Pour  into  small  pots,  cover  with  paper  brushed  over 
with  white  of  egg,  fasten  securely  so  as  to  exclude  the  air,  and  store 
in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  per  Ib. 

2514.— CARROT  AND  BEETROOT  JAM. 

Ingredients. — Equal  weights  of  carrots  and  beetroot,  sugar,  lemons. 

Method. — Wash  the  beetroot,  scrape  the  carrots,  and  boil  them 
separately  until  tender.  Pass  through  a  coarse  sieve,  measure  the 
puree,  and  to  each  pint  allow  12  ozs.  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  2  lemons. 
Place  the  whole  in  a  preserving  pan,  boil  gently  for  £  an  hour,  and  turn 
reparation  into  pots.  It  intended  to  be  kept  some  time,  a  glass 
of  brandy  should  be  added  to  each  pint  of  jam  before  putting  it  into 
the  pot.  Keep  closely  covered  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  cost,  about  sd.  per  Ib. 

2515.— CARROT  JAM. 

Ingredients. — Young  carrots.  To  each  Ib.  of  the  prepared  pulp  allow 
i  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar,  the  strained  juice  of  2  lemons,  and  the  tinely 
grated  rind  of  i  finely-chopped  bitter  almonds,  2  tablespoon! uls 

of  brandy. 

Method.  -Wash  and  scrape  the  carrots,  cut  each  one  into  3  or  4  pieces, 
them  in  a  preserving  ]>.m  \\ith  barely  sufficient  water  to  cover 
them,  and  simmer  gently  till  tender.     Drain  well,  pass  through  a  fine 
h  the  pulp,  and  replace  it  in   the  preserving-pan  with  an 
.it  of  sugar.     Bring  slowly  to  boiling  \  i]  tor  5  mi: 

stirring  and  skimming  frequently.  When  cool,  add  the  almonds, 
brandy,  lemon- juice  and  rind,  turn  into  small  pots,  cover  closely 

in  a  cool,  dry  place.     If  the  brandy  be  omitted  the  jam  will  not 
keep. 

Time. — From  50  to  60  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  sd.  per  Ib. 

2516.— CARROT  JAM.     (Imitation  Apricot.) 

Ingredients. — Equal  weights  of  carrots  and  sugar.     To  each  Ib.  of 
>\v  i£  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy,  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  the 
thm  rind  ot  i  kmun,  12  sweet  almonds  blanched  and  quartered. 

Method. — Scrape  and  slice  the  carrots,  barely  cover  them  with  cold 
simmer  slowly  until  tender,   then  drain   well  and  pass  them 

pan,  add  the  sugar,  almonds  and 
lemon-juice,  boil  up,  simmei  \  5   minutes,  and  stir  in  the 


H38  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

brandy.     Turn  into  pots,  cover  with  bladder,  and  store  in  a  dry,  cool 
place.     Unless  the  brandy  is  added  the  jam  will  not  keep. 

Time. — From  50  to  60  minutes.     Average  cost,  about  5d.  per  Ib. 

2517.— CHERRIES  DRIED. 

Cherries  may  be  put  into  a  slow  oven  and  thoroughly  dried  before 
they  begin  to  change  colour.  They  should  then  be  taken  out  of  the 
oven,  tied  in  bunches,  and  stored  away  in  a  dry  place.  In  the  winter 
they  may  be  cooked  with  sugar  for  dessert,  the  same  as  Normandy 
pippins.  Particular  care  must  be  taken  that  the  oven  be  not  too  hot. 
Another  method  of  drying  cherries  is  to  stone  them  and  put  them  into 
a  preserving-pan,  with  plenty  of  loaf  sugar  strewed  among  them. 
They  should  be  simmered  till  the  fruit  shrivels,  then  they  should  be 
strained  from  the  juice.  The  cherries  should  then  be  placed  in  an  oven 
cool  enough  to  dry  without  baking  them.  About  5  ozs.  of  sugar  will 
be  required  for  i  Ib.  of  cherries,  and  the  same  syrup  may  be  used  again 
to  do  another  quantity  of  fruit. 

2518.— CHERRY  JAM. 

Ingredients. — Sound,  ripe  cooking  cherries,  an  equal  quantity  of 
preserving  sugar;  to  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  £  of  a  pint  of  red-currant 
juice  or  water,  or  the  two  mixed  in  any  proportions  that  may  be  con- 
venient. 

Method. — Remove  the  stones,  keeping  the  cherries  as  whole  as  possible, 
and  preserve  the  kernels.  Put  the  red  currant  juice  or  water  into  a  pre- 
serving-pan with  the  sugar,  and  boil  to  a  syrup.  Add  the  cherries 
and  kernels,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  cherries  are  tender,  but  not 
broken,  and  the  juice  jellies  almost  immediately  when  a  little  is  poured 
on  a  cold  plate.  Pour  into  jars,  cover  with  paper  dipped  in  brandy, 
and  stretch  over  the  top  tissue  paper  brushed  over  with  white  of  egg. 
Store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  about  8d.  per  Ib. 

2519.— CHERRIES,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — Sound,  ripe  cooking  cherries.  To  each  Ib.  allow  £  a  Ib. 
of  preserving  sugar  and  £  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Remove  the  stones  carefully,  keeping  the  fruit  as  whole  as 
possible.  Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  a  syrup,  add  the  cherries,  simmer 
them  gently  for  1 5  minutes,  then  turn  both  fruit  and  syrup  into  a  large 
basin,  and  put  aside  until  the  following  day.  Strain  the  syrup  into  a 
preserving-pan;  to  each  pint  add  from  4  to  6  ozs.  of  sugar,  according 
to  taste,  bring  to  boiling  point,  skim  well,  then  put  in  the  fruit  and 
simmer  gently  for  about  10  minutes.  Pour  into  jars,  cover  at  once 
with  paper  dipped  in  brandy,  stretch  tissue  paper  brushed  over  with 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1139 

white  of  egg  on  the  top,  and  fasten  down  securely.     Store  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  26  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.  or  9d.  per  Ib. 

Not*. — The  flavour  may  be  considerably  improved  by  substituting  the  juice 
of  either  red  or  white  currants  for  the  water. 

2520.— CITRON  MARMALADE.     (5^  Lemon  Marma- 
lade, No.  2555.) 

2521.— CRAB  APPLE  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 4  Ibs.  of  crabapples  (Siberian  crabs),  4  pints  of  water, 
6  cloves,  i  inch  of  ginger,  i  Ib.  of  sugar  to  each  pint  of  strained 
liquid. 

Method. — Halve  the  crabapples  with  a  silver  knife.  Place  them 
in  the  water,  add  the  cloves  and  ginger,  simmer  until  tender,  then  drain 
well,  but  do  not  squeeze  the  apples.  Replace  the  drained  liquid 
in  the  pan,  add  the  sugar,  boil  until  the  syrup  jellies  quickly  when 
tested  on  a  cold  plate,  then  pour  into  small  jars  or  glasses.  Cover 
securely  with  parchment,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2522.— CURRANT  AND  RASPBERRY  JAM.  (S^ 

Raspberry  Jam,  No.  2588.) 

2523.— CURRANTS,     BOTTLED.  (5^    Damsons, 

Bottled,  No.  2526,  and  Gooseberries,  Bottled, 
No.  2539.) 

2524.— CURRANTS,    SPICED.        (5^    Plums    Spiced, 
No.  2582.) 

2525._DAMSONS,  BAKED,  FOR  KEEPING. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  £  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  mutton  suet. 

Method. — Fruit  for  preserving  in  this  manner  should  be  perfectly 
sound,  and  not  over-ripe.  Remove  the  stalks,  but  not  the  stones; 
place  the  fruit  and  sugar  in  a  large  stcwjar  in  alternate  layers,  cover 
closely,  and  bake  in  a  very  cool  oven  until  the  plums  are  tender.  Pack 
the  plums  closely  in  large  jars,  pour  the  syrup  over,  and  when  quite 
cold  cover  with  white  paper  cut  to  the  size  of  the  jar.  Have  ready  some 
mutton  suet  melted,  but  on  the  point  of  setting,  pour  it  into  the  jars 
to  the  depth  of  about  £  an  inch,  stretch  pieces  of  bladder  or  paper 
brushed  over  with  white  of  egg  over  the  jars,  and  fasten  them  securely. 
If  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place  the  fruit  will  keep  good  for  3  or  4  months. 

Time.— From  4  to  5  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d.  per  Ib. 


1 140  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2526.— DAMSONS,  BOTTLED. 

Ingredients. — Damsons,  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  but  not  the  stones,  place  the  fruit  in 
wide-necked  glass  bottles,  and  tie  a  piece  of  bladder  securely  over 
the  top  of  each  one.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  large  boiling  pot  with  a 
thin  layer  of  straw,  stand  the  bottles  side  by  side  on  the  top  of  it,  and 
surround  them  with  cold  water.  Bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  then 
remove  the  boiling-pot  from  the  fire,  but  let  the  bottles  remain  in  it 
until  the  contents  are  perfectly  cold.  Before  storing  them  remove 
the  bladder,  fill  the  mouths  of  the  bottles  with  sugar,  and  cork  with 
tight-fitting  corks.  Cover  with  melted  wax,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  12  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d.  per  Ib. 

2527.— DAMSON  CHEESE. 

Ingredients. — Damsons,  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  and  put  the  fruit  into  a  large  jar  or  stew- 
pot.  Cover  closely,  cook  in  a  very  slow  oven  until  perfectly  soft,  then' 
rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Measure  the  pulp,  and  put  it  into  a  preserving- 
pan  with  the  addition  of  12  or  16  ozs.  of  sugar  to  each  pint  of  pulp, 
according  to  individual  taste.  Boil  until  the  greatef  part  of  the  syrup 
has  evaporated  and  the  pulp  has  become  rather  stiff,  stirring  frequently 
at  first  and  almost  continuously  towards  the  end  of  the  process.  Turn 
into  small  jars,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  If  liked, 
the  stones  may  be  cracked  and  the  kernels  added  to  the  pur6e  with  the 
sugar. 

Time. — From  6  to  y  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.  per  Ib. 

2528.— DAMSON  CHEESE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Damsons,  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — After  removing  the  stalks,  put  the  fruit  into  a  large  jar 
placed  in  a  boiling-pot  of  cold  water,  and  cook  until  perfectly  soft. 
Now  take  away  the  stones,  pour  off  some  of  the  juice,  which  should 
afterwards  be  converted  into  damson  jelly,  and  add  from  6  to  8  ozs. 
of  sugar  to  each  Ib.  of  fruit.  Continue  the  slow  cooking  for  2  hours 
longer,  then  turn  the  whole  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  boil  rapidly 
for  about  £  an  hour,  meanwhile  stirring  continuously.  Turn  into  small 
pots,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — From  6  to  7  hours.     Average  Cost,  jd.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

2529.— DAMSON  JAM. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  from  f  Ib.  to  i  Ib.  of  preserv- 
ing sugar,  according  to  taste. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1141 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks,  put  the  fruit  and  sugar  into  a  preserving- 
pan,  let  it  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  some  of  the  juice  is  ex- 
tracted, then  bring  slowly  to  boiling-point,  occasionally  stirring  mean- 
while. Boil  gently  for  about  45  minutes,  or  until  the  syrup,  when 
tested  on  a  cold  plate,  stiffens  readily.  Pour  into  pots.  Cover  with 
paper  brushed  over  with  white  of  egg. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  5d.  per  Ib. 

2530.— DAMSON  JAM.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  i  Ib.  of  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks,  put  the  fruit  into  a  preserving-pan, 
let  it  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  a  little  of  the  juice  is  extracted, 
then  boil  them  for  \  an  hour.  Now  add  the  sugar  gradually,  and  boil 
for  20  minutes  longer,  reckoning  from  the  time  the  jam  re-boils.  It 
must  be  frequently  stirred,  and,  if  preferred,  some  or  all  the  stones 
may  be  removed  before  turning  the  jam  into  the  pots.  Cover  closely 
with  paper  brushed  over  with  white  of  egg. 

Time. — About  \\  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  4d.  to  5d.  per  Ib. 

2531.— DAMSON  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — Damsons,  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — The  fruit  must  be  firm,  dry  and  ripe.  Remove  the  stalks, 
put  the  fruit  into  a  large  jar  or  stewpot,  cover  closely,  place  it  in  a 
boiling-pot  of  cold  water,  and  cook  very  slowly  until  the  plums  are 
perfectly  tender.  Strain  the  juice  through  a  jelly-bag,  or  fine  cloth 
into  a  preserving-pan,  add  from  8  to  10  ozs.  of  sugar  to  each  pint  of 
juice,  and  boil  until  the  jelly  sets  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate. 
Pour  into  pots,  cover  closely  with  paper  brushed  over  with  white  of 
egg,  and  fasten  securely  so  as  to  exclude  the  air.  Store  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

Time. — Altogether,  from  6  to  7  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  lod. 
per  Ib. 

Note. — The  fruit  from  which  the  juice  has  been  extracted  may  be  converted 
into  damson  cheese  (see  No.  2527  and  following  recipes). 

2532.— DAMSON    PRESERVE.        (See  Damson    Jam, 
No.  2530.) 

2533.— DAMSONS  (OR  ANY  PLUMS),  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — Damsons,  or  other  plums,  suet. 

Method. — Let  the  fruit  be  dry  and  sound.  Place  it  in  wide-necked 
jars,  cover  completely  with  boiling  water,  and  pour  over  a  good  layer 
of  melted  mutton  suet.  Cover  with  parchment,  to  completely  exclude 
the  air.  The  fruit  will  keep  a  considerable  time,  and  when  required 
for  use,  the  water  should  be  poured  off,  and  the  jelly  at  the  bottom 
of  the  jar  used  to  improve  the  flavour  of  the  fruit. 


H42  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2534.— DAMSONS,  PRESERVED. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  \  a  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar. 
^  Method. — Fruit  for  preserving  in  this  manner  should  be  dry,  perfectly 
sound  and  ripe.  Remove  the  stalks,  place  the  fruit  and  sugar  in  layers 
in  a  large  jar,  stand  the  jar  in  a  large  boiling-pot  of  cold  water,  and 
simmer  until  the  plums  are  quite  tender  but  not  broken.  Cool  slightly, 
then  drain  the  juice  into  a  preserving-pan  or  large  stewpan,  and  boil 
rapidly  for  20  minutes.  Meanwhile  place  the  fruit  in  pots,  and  when 
ready,  pour  the  syrup  over  them.  Cover  with  paper  brushed  over 
with  white  of  egg,  fasten  down  securely  so  as  to  completely  exclude 
the  air,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — From  24-  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d.  or  5d.  per  Ib. 


«, 

ter 

*e 
up 


2535.— FIGS,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — Green  figs.  To  each  Ib.  allow  i  Ib.  of  sugar  and  \  a  pint 
of  water,  brine  that  will  float  an  egg. 

Method. — Make  a  slit  across  the  top  of  each  fig,  cover  them  with  brine, 
and  let  them  remain  for  8  days.  Drain  well,  boil  gently  in  a  little  wat 
until  quite  tender,  then  drain  again  and  cover  with  cold  water.  Chan 
the  water  daily  for  3  days,  and  on  the  third  day  have  ready  a  syru 
made  of  the  sugar  and  water  in  the  proportions  given  above.  Boil  the 
figs  in  the  syrup  for  10  minutes,  repeat  the  process  daily  for  3  or  4 
days,  until  the  figs  are  tender  and  green.  Place  them  in  jars  or  bottles, 
add  the  syrup,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

2536.— FRESH  FRUIT,  TO  BOTTLE.  (See  Damsons, 
Bottled,  No.  2526,  and  Gooseberries,  Bottkd, 
NO-  2539.) 

2537-— FRESH  FRUIT,  TO  BOTTLE,  WITH  SUGAR, 

Allow  4  ozs.  of  preserving  sugar  to  each  quart  of  fruit,  and  follow  tho 
directions  given  under  Damsons,  Bottled,  No.  2526,  and  Gooseberries. 
Bottled,  No.  2539. 

2538.— GINGER,  IMITATION  OF. 

Ingredients. — 24  sticks  of  well-grown  rhubarb  or  a  corresponding 
quantity  of  stalks  of  lettuce  going  to  seed,  sugar,  ginger. 

Method. — Remove  the  outside  stringy  part,  and  cut  the  stalks  into 
2-inch  lengths.  Put  them  into  a  preserving-pan  with  4  pints  of  cold 
water,  i  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar,  and  i  heaped  tablespoon ful  of  ground 
ginger.  Bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  simmer  for  20  minutes, 
then  turn  the  whole  into  an  earthenware  vessel.  On  the  following  day 
drain  the  juice  into  the  preserving-pan,  when  boiling,  add  the  stalks. 
and  simmer  gently  f$r  |  an  hour.  Repeat  this  process  on  the  two. 

jf^ 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1143 

following  days,  then  drain  the  stalks  and  weigh  them.  To  each  Ib. 
allow  i£  ozs.  of  ground  ginger,  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  and  i£  pints  of  cold 
water.  Boil  these  together  to  the  "  large  thread  "  degree  (see  No.  2266), 
and  pour  the  syrup  over  the  stalks.  When  cold,  put  the  preparation 
into  jars,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  about  3  weeks, 
wli2n  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Time. — Altogether,  3  days.     Average  Cost.  3d.  or  4d.  per  Ib. 

2539.— GOOSEBERRIES,  BOTTLED. 

Ingredients. — Firm,  sound,  unripe  green  gooseberries. 

Method. — Head  and  tail  the  gooseberries,  put  them  into  wide-necked 
glass  bottles,  and  wrap  a  little  hay  or  straw  round  each  bottle.  Put 
a  thin  layer  of  the  same  on  the  bottom  of  a  large  boiling-pot,  stand  the 
bottles  on  the  top  of  it,  and  surround  them  to  at  least  £  of  their  depth 
with  cold  water.  Bring  the  water  slowly  to  boiling  point,  then  remove 
the  pan  from  the  fire,  but  allow  the  bottles  to  remain  in  it  until  the 
gooseberries  begin  to  rise  in  them.  Now  add  to  each  one  a  little  boiling 
water,  cork  with  new  corks,  and  cover  the  bottles  with  bladder.  Place 
them  on  their  sides  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  When  using  the  fruit,  sugar 
or  syrup  must  be  added  according  to  taste. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  2d.  per  pint. 

2540.— GOOSEBERRIES,  BOTTLED.  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Firm,  sound,  green  gooseberries.  To  each  Ib.  allow 
i  Ib.  of  loaf  or  granulated  sugar  and  \  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Head  and  tail  the  gooseberries,  cover  them  with  cold  water, 
simmer  slowly  until  tender,  but  unbroken,  then  drain  well,  and  put 
them  into  cold  water.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  boil  to  a  syrup, 
then  let  it  become  quite  cold.  Drain  the  gooseberries  well,  put  them 
into  the  cold  syrup,  bring  to  boiling  point,  boil  gently  for  10  minutes, 
then  turn  the  whole  into  an  earthenware  bowl.  Next  day  drain  the 
syrup  into  a  preserving-pan  or  large  stewpan,  boil  it  to  the  "  large 
thread"  degree  (see  No.  2266),  then  put  in  the  fruit  and  boil  gently  for 
10  minutes.  Turn  into  hot,  dry  bottles,  cork  securely  with  new  corks, 
and  cover  the  tops  of  them  with  bladder.  Store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — Altogether,  2  days.     Average  Cost,  4d.  per  Ib. 

2541.— GOOSEBERRY  AND  CURRANT  JAM. 

Ingredients. — 6  Ibs.  of  red  hairy  gooseberries,  4  Ibs.  of  preserving 
sugar,  \  pint  of  currant  juice  (see  Red  Currant  Jelly,  No.  2591 ). 

Method. — Head  and  tail  the  gooseberries,  put  them  into  a  preserving- 
pan,  and  allow  them  to  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  some  of  the 
juice  is  extracted.  Bring  to  boiling  point;  when  the  gooseberries  have 
boiled  for  10  minutes  add  the  sugar  gradually,  put  in  the  red  currant 


H44  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

juice,  and  boil  until  the  jam  sets  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Th( 
scum  must  be  removed  as  it  rises,  and  the  jam  should  be  well  stirred 
towards  the  end  of  the  boiling  process.  When  ready  pour  into  pots, 
cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — From  if  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  $d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

2542.— GOOSEBERRY  JAM. 

Ingredients. — Equal  weights  of  green  gooseberries  and  preserving 
sugar.  To  7  Ibs.  of  fruit  allow  i  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Head  and  tail  the  gooseberries.  Put  the  sugar  and  water 
into  a  preserving-pan,  let  it  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved,  then  add  the  fruit.  Bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  stirring 
occasionally,  then  boil  slowly  until  the  syrup  readily  stiffens  when 
tested  on  a  cold  plate;  this  will  be  when  the  jam  has  boiled  for  about 
40  minutes.  Pour  the  jam  into  jars,  cover  it  at  once  with  paper  brushed 
over  with  white  of  egg,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  if-  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d.  per  Ib. 

2543.— GOOSEBERRY  JAM.     (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  f  of  a  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  into  a  tin  or  dish,  and  let  it  get  quite  hot  in 
the  oven.  Head  and  tail  the  gooseberries,  put  them  into  a  preserving- 
pan,  allow  them  to  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  some  of  the  juice 
is  extracted,  then  bring  to  boiling  point  and  boil  for  1 5  minutes.  Now 
add  the  sugar  gradually,  and  boil  for  10  minutes  longer,  from  the 
time  it  re-boils.  Test  on  a  cold  plate;  if  the  juice  stiffens,  pour  the 
jam  into  pots,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d.  per  Ib. 

2544.— GOOSEBERRY    JAM.         (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  i  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar, 
and  £  a  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Top  and  tail  the  gooseberries.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the 
cold  water,  boil  up,  simmer  for  about  15  minutes,  and  remove  the  scum 
as  it  rises.  Now  put  in  the  fruit,  boil  gently  from  35  to  40  minutes, 
or  until  the  jam  sets  readily  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Pour  into 
pots,  cover  at  once  with  paper  brushed  over  on  both  sides  with  white 
of  egg,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  $d.  per  Ib. 

2545.— GOOSEBERRY  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — To  each  pint  of  gooseberries  allow  £  a  pint  of  water;  to 
each  pint  of  juice  obtained  from  these  add  i  Ib.  of  either  loaf  or  pre- 
serving sugar. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1145 

Method. — Put  the  fruit  and  water  into  a  preserving  pan,  and  boil 
slowly  until  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Strain  through  a  jelly-bag  of  fine  cloth 
until  clear,  then  put  it  into  the  preserving-pan  with  the  sugar,  and  boil 
until  it  will  set  when  a  little  is  poured  on  a  cold  plate.  Turn  into 
small  pots,  cover  with  paper  brushed  over  with  white  of  egg,  fasten 
securely  down  so  as  to  completely  exclude  the  air,  and  store  the  jelly 
in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  jd.  or  8d.  per  Ib. 

2546.— GRAPE  JAM. 

Ingredients. — Firm,  sound,  unripe  grapes.  To  each  Ib.  allow  £  a  Ib. 
of  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Place  the  fruit  and  sugar  in  layers  in  a  preserving-pan, 
allow  it  to  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  whole  mass  is  thor- 
oughly hot  and  some  of  the  juice  is  extracted,  then  bring  slowly  to 
boiling  point.  Boil  until  the  juice  sets  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold 
plate,  pour  it  into  small  pots,  cover  closely,  and  keep  the  jelly  in  a  cool, 
dry  place. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.  per  Ib. 

Note. — In  France,  about  i  of  a  Ib.  of  apples  are  added  to  each  Ib.of  grapes. 

2547.— GRATED  MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — 12  large  Seville  oranges,  2  lemons,  sugar. 

Method. — Grate  the  rinds  of  6  oranges,  remove  all  the  white  pith, 
and  throw  it  away.  Remove  and  throw  away  both  rind  and  pith 
of  the  remaining  6  oranges.  \Yei^h  the  oranges,  and  to  each  Ib.  allow 

1  Ib.  of  sugar.     Divide  into  sections,  scrape  out  the  pulp,  and  soak 
the  pips  and  pith  in  a  little  cold  water.     Place  the  sugar,  juice  of  the 

2  lemons,  orange  rind,  pulp  and  juice  in  a  preserving   pan,  add   the 
water  strained  from  the  pips  and  pith,  and  boil  gently  until  the  marma- 
lade jellies  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.     Cover  the  jars  closely, 
and  store  them  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

2548.— GREEN    GINGER,    TO    PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — Green  ginger,  sugar,   water. 

Method.— Put  the  ginger  regularly  every  night  and  morning  for  a  fort- 
night into  fresh  boiling  water.  Remove  the  outside  skin  with  a  sharp 
kuiie.  boil  it  in  water  until  it  is  quite  soft,  and  slice  it  in  thin  slices. 
Make  ready  a  syrup  of  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar  to  £  a  pint  of  water,  clarify 
it,  and  put  the  ginger  into  it.  Boil  until  it  is  clear. 

Time.— i  »  Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib. 

2549.— GREENGAGE  MARMALADE.     (See  Greengage 
Jam,  No.  2552.) 


1  146  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2550.—  GRAPE  JELLY. 

Ingredients.  —  To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  add  a  £  of  a  pint  of  cold  water.  To 
each  pint  of  juice  obtained  from  these  add  i  Ib.  of  either  loaf  or  pre- 
serving sugar. 

Method.  —  Remove  the  stalks,  put  the  fruit  and  the  water  into  a  pre- 
serving-pan, and  simmer  very  gently  until  the  grapes  are  soft.  Strain 
the  juice  through  a  jelly-bag  or  fine  cloth  until  clear,  replace  it  in  the 
pan,  and  boil  rapidly  for  \  an  hour.  Add  the  sugar  and  continue  the 
boiling  until  the  jelly  sets  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  As 
the  scum  rises  it  should  be  carefully  removed.  When  ready  pour  the 
jelly  into  small  pots,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 
.  —  About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  per  Ib. 


2551.—  GRAPE  MARMALADE. 

Ingredients.  —  Grapes,  preserving  sugar. 

Method.  —  Remove  the  stalks,  put  the  fruit  into  a  preserving-pan, 
barely  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  simmer  gently  until  perfectly  soft, 
but  the  grapes  must  not  be  allowed  to  break.  Drain  well,  pass  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  return  the  pulp  to  the  pan.  To  each  pint  add  from 
12  to  16  ozs.  of  sugar,  according  to  degree  of  sweetness  required,  and 
boil  from  20  to  25  minutes,  reckoning  from  the  time  the  entire  mass 
reaches  boiling  point.  Turn  into  jars,  cover  at  once  with  paper  brushed 
over  on  both  sides  with  white  of  egg,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time.  —  About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  3d.  per  Ib. 

2552.—  GREENGAGE  JAM. 

Ingredients.  —  Firm,  sound  greengages.  To  each  Ib.  allow  £  of  a  Ib.  of 
preserving  sugar. 

Method.  —  Remove  the  stalks  and  stones,  crack  a  few  of  the  latter, 
and  put  the  kernels  aside.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  preserving-pan  to  the 
depth  of  \  an  inch  with  cold  water,  put  in  the  fruit  and  kernels,  bring 
slowly  to  boiling  point,  and  boil  gently  for  15  minutes.  Meanwhile, 
the  sugar  should  have  been  placed  in  the  oven  in  a  deep  tin  or  dish, 
and  allowed  to  become  thoroughly  hot.  It  may  now  be  added  gradu- 
ally to  the  fruit,  and  the  boiling  must  be  continued  until  the  jam  sets 
quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Pour  into  pots,  cover  with  paper 
brushed  over  with  white  of  egg,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time.  —  From   i    to   i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.   per  Ib. 

2553.—  GREENGAGES  PRESERVED   IN  SYRUP. 

Ingredients.  —  To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  i  Ib.  of  either  loaf  or  preserving 
sugar,  and  £  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method.  —  Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  removing  the  stones  before  putting  the  fruit  into  the  syrup. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1147 

Boil  the  fruit  for  10  minutes  on  3  consecutive  days,  adding  on  the  last 
day  half  the  kernels,  which  should  be  previously  blanched.  Through- 
out the  whole  process  the  scum  must  be  carefully  removed  as  it  rises, 
otherwise  the  syrup  will  not  be  clear. 

Time. — Altogether,  3  days.     Average  Cost,  about  6d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

2554.— GREENGAGES,  TO  PRESERVE  DRY. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  i  Ib.  of  sugar,  a  £  of  a  pint  of 
water. 

Method. — For  this  purpose  the  fruit  must  be  used  before  it  is  quite 
ripe,  and  part  of  the  stalk  must  be  left  on.  Weigh  the  fruit,  rejecting 
all  that  is  in  the  least  degree  blemished,  and  put  it  into  a  lined  sauce- 
pan with  the  sugar  and  water,  which  should  have  been  previously 
boiled  together  to  a  syrup.  Boil  the  fruit  in  this  for  10  minutes,  remove 
it  from  the  fire,  and  drain  the  greengages.  The  next  day  boil  up  the 
syrup,  put  in  the  fruit  again,  let  it  simmer  for  3  minutes,  then  drain  the 
syrup  away.  Continue  this  process  for  5  or  6  days,  and  the  last  time 
place  the  greengages,  when  drained,  on  a  hair  sieve,  and  put  them 
in  an  oven  to  dry.  Keep  them  in  a  box,  with  paper  between  each  layer, 
in  a  place  free  from  damp. 

Time. — Altogether  6  days.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

2555.— LEMON  MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — Lemons,  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Place  the  lemons  in  a  preserving-pan,  cover  them  with 
cold  water,  and  boil  them  gently  for  2  hours,  during  which  time  the 
water  must  be  drained  off  and  replaced  by  fresh  boiling  water  at 
least  3  times.  Let  them  cool  slightly,  slice  thinly,  remove  all  the  pips, 
and  weigh  the  fruit.  To  each  Ib.  allow  2  Ib.  of  sugar  and  i  pint  of  the 
water  the  lemons  were  last  boiled  in,  and  boil  these  together  until  a 
thin  syrup  is  obtained.  Then  add  the  prepared  fruit,  and  boil  until 
the  marmalade  jellies  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Cover  closely  with 
paper  brushed  over  on  both  sides  with  white  of  egg,  and  store  in  a  cool, 
dry  place. 

Time. — From  3  to  3^  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  6d.  to  pd.  per  Ib. 

2556.— LEMON  MARMALADE.       (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Lemons,  apples,  sugar,  whole  ginger. 

Method. — Prepare  the  lemons  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  then 
weigh  them.  Take  an  equal  weight  of  sour  cooking  apples,  pare, 
core,  slice  them,  and  stew  them  gently  until  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Add 
the  weight  of  the  apple  pulp  to  that  of  the  sliced  lemons;  to  each  Ib. 
allow  2  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar,  and  i  pint  of  the  water  the  lemons  were 
last  boiled  in.  Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  a  thin  syrup,  add  the  fruit, 


1148        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  boil  gently  until  the  marmalade  sets  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold 
plate.  Pour  into  pots,  cover  at  once  with  paper  brushed  over  on  both 
sides  with  white  of  egg,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  /d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

2557.— MANGOES,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — Mangoes,  syrup  (see  To  Clarify  Sugar  for  Syrup,  No.  2599), 
lime  water. 

Method. — Let  the  mangoes  lie  for  a  few  hours  in  cold  water,  then  peel 
them  thinly  and  remove  the  stones.  Cover  with  weak  lime  water, 
and  at  the  end  of  i  hour  drain  well  and  place  them  in  a  preserving  pan. 
Barely  cover  with  cold  water,  boil  gently  for  10  minutes,  and  drain 
well.  Replace  the  mangoes  in  the  pan,  cover  with  syrup,  boil  gently 
until  the  sugar  begins  to  crystallise,  and,  when  cool,  transfer  carefully 
into  jars  or  wide-necked  bottles.  During  the  first  month  the  syrup 
must  be  examined  from  time  to  time,  and  if  it  appears  at  all  thin  it 
should  be  reboiled.  It  may  be  necessary  to  repeat  this  process  two 
or  three  times  before  finally  corking  down. 

2558.— MANGOES,  TO  PRESERVE.    (Another  Method.^ 

Ingredients. — Green  mangoes,  pounded  ginger,  turmeric,  cayenne, 
salt. 

Method. — Peel  and  quarter  the  mangoes,  and  sprinkle  them  well  with 
salt.  Let  them  dry  in  the  sun  until  they  begin  to  curl  up,  then  rub 
them  with  a  mixture  of  salt,  turmeric  and  cayenne.  As  soon  as  the 
mangoes  are  completely  dried  up,  place  them  in  bottles,  and  cork 
securely. 

2559.— MORELLA  CHERRIES,  TO  PRESERVE.  (Sec 
Cherries,  To  Preserve,  No.  2519,  and  Cherries, 
Dried,  No.  2517.) 

2560.— MULBERRIES  PRESERVED. 

Ingredients. — Ripe  mulberries,  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Put  half  the  fruit  into  a  jar,  cover  closely,  place  it  on  the 
stove  in  a  large  saucepan  of  cold  water,  and  cook  slowly  until  the  juice 
is  extracted.  Strain,  measure  the  juice,  and  put  it  into  a  preserving- 
pan  or  large  stewpan  with  the  addition  of  2  Ibs.  of  sugar  to  each  pint 
of  juice.  Bring  to  boiling  point,  skim  well,  add  the  remainder  of  the 
fruit,  and  boil  until  it  is  half  cooked.  Turn  the  whole  into  an  earthen- 
ware vessel,  unless  the  preserving-pan  be  lined  with  enamel,  in  which 
case  they  may  remain  in  the  pan.  On  the  following  day  boil  until  the 
juice  sets  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Turn  into  pots,  cover 
closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1149 

Time. — Altogether,  2  days.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  as  this  fruit 
is  rarely  offered  for  sale. 

MULBERRY. — Mulberries  are  esteemed  for  their  highly  aromatic  flavour  and  their  sub-acid  nature. 
They  are  considered  as  cooling,  laxative  and  generally  wholesome.  This  fruit  was  very  highly  appreci- 
ated by  the  Romans,  who  appear  to  have  preferred  it  to  every  other.  The  mulberry  tree  is  stated 
to  have  been  introduced  into  this  country  in  $548,  being  first  planted  at  Sion  House,  where  the  original 
trees  still  thrive.  The  planting  of  mulberry  trees  was  much  encouraged  by  King  James  I,  about  1605  ; 
and  considerable  attempts  were  made  at  that  time  to  rear  silkworms  on  a  large  scale,  for  the  purpose 
of  making  silk  ;  but  these  endeavours  have  always  failed,  the  climate  not  being  sufficiently  warm. 

256l.  —NECTARINES  PRESERVED. 

Ingredients. — Nectarines,  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Split  the  nectarines  in  halves,  remove  the  stones,  crack 
them  and  put  the  kernels  aside.  Weigh  the  fruit,  put  an  equal  amount 
of  sugar  into  the  preserving-pan,  add  a  £  of  a  pint  of  water  to  each  Ib. 
of  sugar,  and  boil  to  a  syrup.  Now  put  in  the  fruit,  boil  very  gently 
until  it  is  quite  tender,  but  not  broken,  then  lift  it  out  carefully  with 
a  spoon  and  put  it  into  pots.  Boil  the  syrup  rapidly  until  it  sets  quickly 
when  tested  on  a  cold  plate,  pour  it  over  the  fruit,  cover  closely,  and 
store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  per  Ib. 

2562.— ORANGE  MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — 12  Seville  oranges,  2  lemons,  preserving  sugar. 

Method.  —  Slice  the  fruit  thinly,  removing  inner  pith  and  pips. 
Weigh  it,  and  to  each  Ib.  add  3  pints  of  cold  water.  Let  the  whole 
remain  covered  in  an  earthenware  vessel  for  3  days,  then  turn  the 
preparation  into  a  preserving-pan  and  boil  gently  until  quite  tender. 
Let  it  cool,  weigh  again,  and  to  each  Ib.  of  fruit  add  i  Ib.  of  sugar. 
Bring  to  boiling  point,  skim  well,  and  cook  gently  until  the  syrup 
stiffens  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Turn  into  pots,  cover 
with  'paper  brushed  over  on  both  sides  with  white  of  egg,  and  store 
in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — Altogether,  4  days.     Average  Cost,  about  2d.  per  Ib. 

2563.— ORANGE  MARMALADE.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 12  Seville  oranges,  9  sweet  oranges,  2  lemons,  the  weight 
of  the  fruit  in  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Divide  the  rinds  of  the  oranges  into  quarters,  remove  them 
carefully,  put  them  into  a  preserving-pan  with  as  much  cold  water  as 
will  cover  them,  and  boil  gently  until  quite  tender.  Meanwhile  divide 
the  fruit  into  sections,  scrape  out  the  pulp,  put  the  pips  and  fibrous 
skin  into  a  basin,  cover  with  cold  water,  and  let  them  soak  until  required. 
When  the  rinds  are  tender  drain  them  well  and  shred  them  finely. 
Strain  2  pints  of  the  liquid  in  which  they  were  boiled,  and  add  to 
it  the  water  in  which  the  pips  and  skins  were  soaked.  Put  the  sugar 
and  water  into  a  preserving-pan,  boil  to  a  syrup,  then  put  in  the 


1 150  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 


shredded  rinds  and  pulp,  and  boil  gently  until  the  marmalade  jellies 
when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Pour  the  marmalade  into  pots,  and 
cover  down  with  paper  brushed  over  with  white  of  egg. 

Time. — About  3  hours,  exclusive  of  the  time  required  for  shredding 
the  rinds.  Average  Cost,  3d.  per  Ib. 

2564.— ORANGE  MARMALADE.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 24  Seville  oranges,  their  weight  in  preserving  sugar, 
2  pints  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Take  off  the  rinds  of  the  oranges,  divide  the  pulp  into 
small  pieces,  and  remove  the  pips.  Boil  the  rinds  in  water  for  2 
hours,  changing  it  2  or  3  times  to  reduce  the  bitter  flavour ;  when 
quite  tender,  drain  well,  and  shred  them  finely.  Boil  the  sugar  and 
water  to  a  syrup,  skimming  well  meanwhile,  then  add  the  pulp  and 
shredded  rinds.  Boil  gently  for  about  £  an  hour,  or  until  the  marma- 
lade sets  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate,  then  pour  into  pots 
and  cover  down  with  paper  brushed  over  on  both  sides  with  white  of 
egg.  Keep  the  marmalade  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — 5  or  6  hours  altogether.     Average  Cost,  3d.  per  Ib. 

2565.— ORANGE  MARMALADE  (TRANSPARENT). 

Ingredients. — 4  Ibs.  of  Seville  oranges,  8  Ibs.  of  preserving  sugar,  6 
pints  of  water,  2  or  3  whites  of  eggs. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  the  oranges,  and  scrape  away  the 
white  pith.  Shred  the  rind  finely,  cover  with  water,  boil  gently  until 
tender,  then  strain  and  preserve  the  liquid.  Strip  every  particle  of 
pith  from  the  oranges,  slice  them,  and  remove  the  pips,  and  soak  these 
in  a  little  cold  water.  Simmer  the  remainder  of  the  water  and  tho 
sliced  oranges  for  2  hours,  then  drain  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  or  cloth, 
but  do  not  squeeze  the  pulp.  Replace  the  liquid  in  the  pan,  add  the 
liquid  in  which  the  rind  was  cooked  and  the  strained  water  from  the 
pips,  bring  nearly  to  boiling  point,  and  clarify  with  white  of  eggs  (see 
Aspic  Jelly,  No.  1980).  Strain  until  clear,  replace  in  the  pan,  add  the 
sugar,  boil  gently  until  the  syrup  jellies  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate, 
and  add  the  orange  rind.  Simmer  gently  for  10  minutes  longer,  then 
turn  into  pots,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Time. — About  i  day.     Average  Cost,  6d.  per  Ib. 

2566.— ORANGE  MARMALADE  MADE  WITH  HONEY. 

Ingredients. — Oranges,  honey. 

Method. — Boil  the  rinds  until  tender,  then  shred  them  finely.  Remove 
the  pith  and  pips,  measure  the  pulp,  and  to  each  pint  allow  i  Ib.  of 
honey  and  £  a  Ib.  of  the  prepared  rinds.  Simmer  gently  for  about 
40  minutes,  stirring  frequently,  then  turn  the  marmalade  into  jars  or 
glasses,  and  cover  these  with  parchment.  Store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1151 

2567._ORANGES    AND    LEMONS,    TO     PRESERVE 
WHOLE. 

Ingredients. — Oranges  or  lemons.  To  i  Ib.  of  oranges  allow  2  Ibs.  of 
sugar  and  i  pint  of  water;  to  lemons  add  3  Ibs.  of  sugar  and  i£  pints  of 
water. 

Method. — At  one  end  of  each  orange  make  a  hole  sufficiently  large 
to  admit  a  small  spoon,  and  scoop  out  the  pulp  and  juice.  Cover  the 
rinds  with  cold  water,  and  let  them  remain  for  3  days,  changing  the 
water  2  or  3  times  daily.  Drain,  place  them  in  the  preserving  pan  with 
sufficient  cold  water  to  cover  them,  simmer  gently  until  tender,  and 
drain  well.  Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  a  syrup,  add  the  juice  and 
pulp,  boil  gently  for  1 5  minutes,  and  pour  the  whole  over  the  oranges. 
When  quite  cold,  replace  in  the  pan,  simmer  very  gently  lor  £  an  hour, 
then  turn  into  an  earthenware  vessel.  On  the  following  day  boil  up 
the  syrup  and  pour  it  over  the  oranges;  this  process  should  be  repeated 
on  2  or  3  consecutive  days  until  the  rinds  are  quite  clear.  Fill  the 
oranges  with  syrup,  place  them  in  wide-necked  jars,  pour  the  remainder 
of  the  syrup  over  them,  and  cover  closely.  Store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2568.— ORANGES,  TO  PRESERVE.     (See  Oranges  and 
Lemons,  To  Preserve  Whole,  No.  2567.) 

2569.— PEACH  MARMALADE.    (See  Apple  Marmalade, 

No.  2500,  and  Rhubarb  Marmalade,  No.  2594.) 
2570.— PEACHES   PRESERVED   IN   BRANDY. 

Ingredients. — 6  Ibs.  of  peaches,  3  Ibs.  of  castor  or  powdered  loaf  sugar, 
3  pints  of  brandy. 

Method. — Peaches  intended  for  preserving  should  be  firm,  sound,  and 
not  over-ripe.  Remove  the  stones,  taking  care  to  keep  the  fruit  as 
whole  as  possible,  place  the  fruit  in  a  large  jar,  and  cover  each  layer 
thickly  with  sugar.  Add  the  brandy,  cover  closely,  place  the  jar  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  until  the  brandy  is  on  the 
point  of  boiling.  Remove  the  fruit  carefully  to  hot,  dry,  small  pots, 
add  to  each  an  equal  share  of  the  hot  brandy,  and  cover  closely  with 
paper  brushed  over  with  white  of  egg.  Store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  2d.  each. 

PEACH  AND  NECTARINE.— At  Montreuil,  a  village  near  Paris,  almost  the  whole  population  is  em- 
ployed in  the  cultivation  of  peaches.  This  occupation  has  maintained  the  inhabitants  for  ages,  and 
in  consequence  they  raise  better  peaches  than  anywhere  else  in  France.  In  Maryland  and  Virginia 
peaches  grow  nearly  wild,  in  orchards  resembling  forests  ;  but  the  fruit  is  of  very  little  value  for  the 
table,  being  employed  only  in  fattening  hogs  and  for  the  distillation  of  peach  brandy.  In  California 
large  groves  of  peaches  and  apricots  are  grown,  the  finest  being  exported,  packed  in  baskets  half  ripe, 
in  the  form  of  "  evaporated  "  or  oven-dried  peaches,  and  as  canned  fruit.  On  the  east  side  of  the 
Andes,  peaches  grow  wild  among  the  cornfields  and  in  the  mountains,  and  are  dried  as  an  article  of 
food.  The  young  leaves  of  the  peach  are  sometimes  used  in  cookery,  for  their  agreeable  flavour  ; 
and  a  liqueur  resembling  the  fine  noyeau  of  Martinique  may  be  made  by  steeping  them  in  brandy 
sweetened  with  su^ar  and  fined  with  milk  ;  gin  mav  also  be  flavoured  in  the  same  manner.  The 
kernels  of  the  fruit  have  the  same  flavour.  The  nectarine  is  said  to  have  received  its  name  from 
Nectar,  the  wine  of  the  gods.  It  belongs  to  the  same  species  as  the  peach,  differing  from  it  in 
having  a  smoother  rind  and  pulp.  The  nectarine  is,  by  some,  considered  the  superior  fruit. 


H52  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2571.— PEARS,  PRESERVED. 

Ingredients. — Firm,  sound,  not  over-ripe  pears,  an  equal  weight  oJ 
loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Pare,  halve,  and  core  the  pears.  Put  half  the  sugar  into 
a  preserving  pan,  to  each  Ib.  add  2  pints  of  water,  and  boil  to  a  thin 
syrup.  Let  it  cool,  put  in  the  prepared  fruit,  and  simmer  very  gently 
until  half  cooked.  Turn  the  whole  into  an  earthenware  bowl,  cover, 
and  allow  them  to  remain  for  2  days.  When  ready,  drain  the  syrup 
into  a  preserving-pan,  add  the  remainder  of  the  sugar  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon-juice  to  each  pint  of  liquid,  and  boil  gently  for  15 
minutes,  skimming  well  meanwhile.  Now  put  in  the  fruit,  simmer  very 
gently  until  quite  tender,  then  transfer  them  carefully  to  jars,  and  pour 
over  the  syrup.  Cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — Altogether,    2    days.     Average    Cost,     id.    each. 

PEAR. — The  pear,  like  the  apple,  is  indigenous  in  this  country,  but  the  wild  pear  is  a  very  unsatis- 
factory fruit.  The  best  varieties  were  brought  from  the  East  by  the  Romans,  who  cultivated  them 
with  care,  and  probably  introduced  some  of  their  best  sorts  into  this  island,  to  which  others  were 
added  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  monasteries.  The  Dutch  and  Flemings,  as  well  as  the  French,  have 
excelled  in  the  cultivation  of  the  pear,  and  most  of  the  large  varieties  introduced  are  from  France 
and  Flanders.  The  pear  is  a  hardy  tree,  and  lives  for  a  longer  period  than  the  apple  ;  it  has  been 
known  to  exist  for  centuries.  There  are  now  about  150  varieties  of  this  fruit.  Though  perfectly 
wholesome  when  ripe,  the  pear  is  not  so  when  green,  but  in  this  state  it  is  fit  for  stewing.  An  agree- 
able beverage,  called  perry,  is  made  from  pears,  and  the  varieties  which  are  least  fit  for  eating  make 
the  best  perry. 

2572.— PEARS,  PRESERVED.         (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 8  Ibs.  of  firm,  sound  pears,  6  Ibs.  of  preserving  sugar,  the 
finely-grated  rind  and  juice  of  3  lemons,  2  inches  of  whole  ginger. 

Method. — Select  a  stewjar  with  a  close-fitting  lid,  cover  the  bottom 
to  the  depth  of  i  inch  with  cold  water,  put  in  the  fruit  and  sugar  in 
layers,  and  add  the  ginger,  lemon-rind  and  lemon-juice.  Cover  closely, 
place  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  slowly  until  the 
pears  are  quite  tender,  but  not  broken.  Put  them  carefully  into  jars, 
strain  the  syrup  over  them,  and  cover  with  papers  brushed  over  on 
both  sides  with  white  Of  egg.  The  pears  will  keep  good  for  3  or  4 
months  if  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — From  5  to  6  hours.     Average  Cost,  id.  each. 

THE  BON  CHRETIEN  PEAR. — This  valuable  variety  of  pear,  which  comes  to  our  table  in  winter, 
either  raw  or  cooked,  received  its  name  through  the  following  incident :  Louis  XI,  King  of  Fr.m«\ 
had  sent  for  St.  Francois  de  Paule  from  the  lower  part  of  Calabria,  in  the  hopes  of  recovering  his 
health  through  his  intercession.  The  saint  brought  with  him  the  seeds  of  this  pear ;  and  as  lie  was 
called  at  court  Le  Bon  Chretien,  this  fruit  obtained  its  name  from  the  introducer  of  this  variety  of 
pear  into  France. 

2573.— PINEAPPLE  CHIPS.         (See    Pineapple,   Pre- 
served, No.  2576.) 

2574.— PICKLED  PEARS,  SWEET. 

Ingredients. — Firm  pears.  To  each  Ib.  allow  £  a  Ib.  of  brown  su.-rar, 
and  |  of  a  pint  of  malt  vinegar;  cloves,  cinnamon,  allspice. 


PRESERVES    AND    TINNED    FRUIT, 


Maple  Syrup,  Samoa  Brand  Syrup,  t.lebr  Golden  Syrup.  Raspberry  and  Currant 
Jam.  Keiller's  Marmalade.  D.im-.n  Jam,  Golden  Shred  Marmalade.  Royal  Tablet 
Marmalade.  Black  Currant  Jam. 

T.  .m.itues,  Morella  Cherries,  Table  Fruit,  Figs,  Guavas,  Pine  Chunks,  Peaches,  Apricots. 


PRESERVED  FOODS :  PICKLES,  STORE  SAUCES,  ETC. 


i.  Oxtail  Soup,  Gravy  Soup,  Turtle  Soup.  Julienne  Soup,  Hare  Soup,  Truffles,  Heinz's  Sauce, 
Cocks'  Combs,  Mixed  Pickles,  Walnuts,  Girkins,  Financiere.  ^.  Malt  Vinegar.  Madras  Chutney, 
Harvey's  Sauce,  Lucca  Oil,  French  Wine  Vinegar,  Worcestershire  Sauce,  Co  man's  Mustard, 
Worcestershire  Sauce,  Mustard,  Mushroom  Catsup,  Keen's  Mustard,  Bloater  Pasto,  Essence  of 
Anchovies,  Anchovy  Paste. 

78 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1153 

Method. — Peel  the  pears  and  tie  the  spices  in  muslin.  Place  the 
vinegar,  sugar  and  spices  in  a  preserving  pan;  when  boiling  add  tha 
pears,  and  cook  them  gently  until  tender.  Remove  the  pears  to  a 
bowl  or  large  basin,  boil  the  syrup  for  10  minutes  longer,  then  pour 
it  over  the  fruit.  On  the  following  day  boil  up  the  syrup,  and  repeat 
the  process  the  two  following  days.  On  the  third  day  place  the  pears 
in  jars  or  wide-necked  bottles,  and  remove  the  spices  before  adding  the 
vinegar  to  the  fruit.  Store  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Time. — 3  days.     Average  Cost,  id.  each. 

2575.— PINEAPPLE  MARMALADE. 

Ingredients.— Pineapple  pulp.     To  each  Ib.  add  14  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar. 

Method.—  Peel,  core  and  slice  the  pineapples,  and  either  pound  or 
grate  them  finely,  preferably  the  latter.  Boil  the  pulp  and  sugar 
together  until  thick  and  clear,  then  turn  into  pots,  cover  first  with 
brandied  paper,  and  afterward  with  parchment.  Store  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

Time.— 2  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  25.  each. 

2576.  —PINEAPPLE,  PRESERVED. 

Ingredients. — Pineapples,  pounded  loaf  or  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Pare  and  slice  the  fruit  thinly,  pile  it  on  a  large  dish,  and 
sprinkle  each  layer  liberally  with  sugar.  Keep  it  in  a  hot  closet,  or 
put  it  daily  for  7  or  8  days  into  a  cool  oven,  turning  it  frequently. 
When  quite  dry,  bake  a  few  slices  at  a  time,  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
When  quite  cold,  pack  them  in  air-tight  boxes  with  paper  between  each 
layer. 

Time. — About    8    days.     Average    Cost,    from    2s.    each. 

2577.— PINEAPPLE,  PRESERVED.  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit,  weighed  after  being  pared,  allow 
i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar  and  £•  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Pare  the  pines  thinly,  and  cut  them  into  thick  slices.  Put 
the  water  into  a  preserving-pan,  add  the  sugar  gradually,  and  when 
quite  dissolved  boil  and  skim  well.  Add  the  fruit,  simmer  gently  for 
about  \  an  hour,  then  transfer  carefully  to  a  large  jar,  and  pour  the 
syrup  over. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  from  2s.  each. 

2578.— PINEAPPLE,      TO      PRESERVE.         (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — Pineapples,  castor  or  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Cut  the  pines  into  slices  \  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  trim 
off  the  edges,  and  remove  the  hard  centre  part.  Put  these  trimmings 

P  P 


1 154        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

into  a  stcwpan  with  sufficient  water  to  cover  them,  and  simmer  them 
gently  for  \  an  hour.  Strain,  return  to  the  stewpan,  add  the  sliced 
pines,  sugar  to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  -|-  an  hour,  skimming 
occasionally  meanwhile.  Pines  thus  preserved  will  keep  but  a  very 
short  time. 

Time. — About  i|-  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  2s.  each. 

2579.— PLUM  JAM. 

Ingredients. — Plums,  sugar. 

Method. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  from  12  to  16  ozs.  of  sugar,  accord- 
ing to  the  degree  of  sweetness  required,  and  the  amount  of  acidity 
contained  in  the  plums.  Divide  the  plums,  take  out  the  stones,  or, 
if  preferred,  cut  them  across,  and  remove  the  stones  as  they  rise  in  the 
pan.  Pile  the  fruit  on  a  large  dish  with  the  sugar  spread  thickly  be- 
tween each  layer,  allow  them  to  remain  thus  until  the  following  day, 
then  put  the  whole  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  heat  slowly  by  the  side 
of  the  fire,  stirring  occasionally  meanwhile.  Boil  gently  until  the 
jam  sets  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate,  then  turn  it  into  pots, 
cover  closely,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — Altogether,  26  hours.     Average  Cost,  3d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

PLUMS — The  Damson,  or  Damascene,  plum  takes  its  name  from  Damascus,  where  it  grows  in 
great  quantities,  and  from  whence  it  was  brought  into  Italy  about  114  B.C.  The  Orleans  plum  is 
from  France.  The  greengage  is  called  after  the  Gage  family,  who  first  brought  it  into  England  from 
the  monastery  of  the  Chartreuse,  at  Paris,  where  it  still  bears  the  name  of  Reine  Claude.  The  Mag- 
num-bonum  is  our  largest  plum,  and  is  greatly  esteemed  for  preserves  and  culinary  purposes.  The 
best  sort  of  plums  are  agreeable  for  dessert,  and,  when  perfectly  ripe,  are  wholesome  ;  but  some  are 
too  astringent,  while  others,  when  thoroughly  ripe,  are  rather  laxative.  Plums  lose  much  of  their 
bad  qualities  by  cooking,  but  they  should  be  eaten  in  moderation  by  those  whose  digestive  organs  are 
not  over-strong. 

2580.— PLUMS,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  plums  allow  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar  and  £  a 
pint  of  water. 

Method. — Put  the  water  and  sugar  into  a  preserving-pan,  and  boil 
to  a  thin  syrup.  Remove  the  stalks  from  the  plums,  prick  them 
slightly  to  prevent  them  breaking,  pour  over  them  the  prepared  syrup, 
and  allow  them  to  remain  thus  for  2  days.  Turn  the  whole  into  a 
preserving-pan,  boil  very  gently  until  the  plums  are  tender,  then  lift 
them  carefully  into  pots.  Boil  the  syrup  to  the  "  large  thread  "  degree, 
pour  it  over  the  plums,  cover  closely,  and  store  them  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

Time. — Altogether,  2  days.     Average  Cost,  3d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

2581.— PLUMS,  TO  PRESERVE  DRY. 

Ingredients. — An  equal  weight  of  plums  and  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Put  half  the  sugar  into  a  preserving-pan  with  the  addition 
of  \  a  pint  of  cold  water  to  each  Ib.  of  sugar,  and  boil  to  a  thin  syrup. 
Divide  the  plums,  remove  the  stones,  and  put  the  fruit  into  the  pre- 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1155 

pared  syrup.  Simmer  gently  until  half  cooked,  then  turn  the  whole 
into  an  earthenware  bowl,  cover,  and  let  it  remain  thus  until  the 
following  day.  Strain  the  syrup  into  a  preserving-pan,  add  the  rest 
of  the  sugar,  and  boil  to  the  "  large  pearl  "  degree  (see  No.  2266).  Allow 
it  to  cool  slightly,  put  in  the  plums,  simmer  very  gently  until  tender, 
then  remove  them  very  carefully  to  a  deep  dish  and  strain  the  syrup 
over  them.  Let  the  plums  remain  covered  for  48  hours,  drain  well, 
spread  them  on  large  dishes  in  single  layers,  and  when  quite  dry  pack 
them  in  air-tight  tins  with  wax  paper  between  the  layers. 
Time. — Altogether,  3  days.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

2582.— PLUMS,  SPICED. 

Ingredients. — Firm  plums,  sugar,  vinegar,  cinnamon,  cloves,  shredded 
orange-rind. 

Method. — Prick  the  plums  well  with  a  fork,  place  them  in  a  large 
jar  with  cinnamon,  cloves  and  orange-rind  between  each  layer.  Cover 
with  vinegar,  and,  on  the  following  day,  strain  of!  and  boil  for  10 
minutes.  Let  it  cool,  pour  it  over  the  fruit,  and  at  the  end  of  24  hours 
again  strain  and  measure  it.  To  each  pint  add  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  boil 
the  two  together  for  10  minutes,  pour  it  over  the  plums,  and,  when 
cold,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Time. — 3  days.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

2583.- PUMPKIN,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  pumpkin  allow  i  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon-juice,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  i  lemon, 
and  |  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger. 

Method. — Pare  and  halve  the  pumpkin,  remove  the  seeds,  and  slice 
thinly.  Lay  the  slices  on  a  large  dish,  covering  each  layer  thickly 
with  sugar,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  let  it  remain  for  3  days.  Turn 
the  whole  into  a  preserving-pan,  add  the  lemon-rind  and  ginger,  and 
£  a  pint  of  cold  water  to  3  Ibs.  of  fruit,  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point, 
and  continue  the  cooking  until  the  slices  of  pumpkin  are  quite  tender, 
but  not  broken.  Transfer  carefully  to  an  earthenware  bowl,  let  it  re- 
main covered  for  7  days,  then  lift  the  slices  of  pumpkin  carefully  into 
nid  strain  the  syrup  into  a  preserving-pan.  Boil  the  syrup  to  the 
"  lar^e  pearl  "  degree  (see  No.  2266),  pour  it  over  the  pumpkin,  cover 
closely,  and,  when  cold,  put  the  jars  into  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — 10  days.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  5d.  per  11  >. 

2584.— QUINCE  AND  APPLE  MARMALADE.       (See 
Quince  Marmalade,  No.   2586.) 

Use  equal  parts  of  quince  and  apple  puree. 


1156        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 
2585.— QUINCE  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — To  every  pint  of  juice  allow  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Pare  and  slice  the  quinces,  and  put  them  into  a  preserving- 
pan  with  sufficient  water  to  float  them.  Boil  them  until  the  fruit  is 
reduced  to  a  pulp.  Strain  off  the  clear  juice,  and  to  each  pint  allow 
the  above  proportion  of  loaf  sugar.  Boil  the  juice  and  sugar  together 
for  about  £  of  an  hour,  remove  all  the  scum  as  it  rises,  and  when  the 
jelly  appears  firm  upon  a  little  being  poured  on  a  plate,  pour  into  small 
pots.  The  residue  left  on  the  sieve  will  answer  to  make  a  common 
marmalade  for  immediate  use,  by  boiling  it  with  £  a  Ib.  of  common 
sugar  to  every  Ib.  of  pulp. 

Time. — 4  hours  altogether.      Average  Cost,   lod.  per  Ib. 

2586.— QUINCE  MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  quince  pulp  allow  £  of  a  Ib.  of  loaf  or 
preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Pare  the  fruit,  put  it  into  a  preserving-pan  with  as  much 
water  as  will  just  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  stew  gently  until 
reduced  to  a  pulp.  Pass  through  a  hair  sieve,  weigh  the  pulp,  replace 
it  in  the  pan,  add  the  sugar,  and  cook  very  gently  until  the  marmalade 
sets  quickly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Turn  into  pots,  cover  with 
paper  brushed  over  on  both  sides  with  white  of  egg,  and  store  in  a  cool, 
dry  place. 

Time. — About  4  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod.  per  Ib. 

2587.— QUINCES,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — Quinces,  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Pare,  quarter,  core  the  quinces,  and  preserve  the  skins  and 
cores.  Put  the  fruit  into  the  preserving-pan  with  barely  enough 
water  to  cover  them,  and  simmer  until  soft,  but  not  broken.  Place 
the  quinces  singly  on  large  dishes,  add  the  cores  and  parings  to  the  water 
in  which  the  quinces  were  cooked,  and  simmer  gently  for  i  hour.  Strain 
through  a  jelly-bag  until  quite  clear,  return  it  to  the  pan  with  the  ad- 
dition of  i  Ib.  of  sugar  for  each  Ib.  of  fruit,  bring  to  boiling  point,  and 
skim  well.  Put  in  the  quinces,  boil  for  15  minutes,  then  turn  the  whole 
carefully  into  an  earthenware  bowl,  and  let  the  preparation  remain 
until  the  following  day.  Drain  the  syrup  once  more  into  the  pan; 
when  boiling  add  the  fruit,  cook  gently  for  15  minutes,  then  lift  the 
quinces  carefully  into  small  jars,  which  they  should  £  fill.  Continue 
boiling  the  syrup  until  it  forms  a  thick  jelly  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate, 
pour  it  over  the  fruit,  cover  the  jars  closely  with  paper  brushed  over 
on  each  side  with  white  of  egg,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — Altogether,   2   days.     Average   Cost,    lod.   per  Ib, 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1157 

2588._RASPBERRY  JAM. 

Ingredients. — To  every  Ib.  of  raspberries  allow  i  Ib.  of  sugar,  £  of  a 
pint  of  red-currant  juice. 

Method. — Let  the  fruit  for  this  preserve  be  gathered  in  fine  weather, 
and  used  as  soon  after  it  is  picked  as  possible.  Take  off  the  stalks, 
put  the  raspberries  into  a  preserving-pan,  break  them  well  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  and  let  them  boil  for  £  of  an  hour,  keeping  them  well 
stirred.  Add  the  currant-juice  and  sugar,  and  boil  again  for  £  an 
hour.  Skim  the  jam  well  after  the  sugar  is  added,  or  the  preserve  will 
not  be  clear.  The  addition  of  the  currant-juice  is  a  very  great  improv- 
ment  to  this  preserve,  as  it  gives  it  the  piquant  taste  which  the  flavour 
of  the  raspberries  seems  to  require. 

Time. — About  i   hour.     Average  Cost,  ;d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

2589.— RASPBERRY  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — To  each  pint  of  juice  allow  £  of  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Let  the  raspberries  be  freshly  gathered,  quite  ripe,  and 
picked  from  the  stalks;  put  them  into  a  large  jar,  after  breaking  the 
fruit  a  little  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  place  the  jar,  covered,  in  a  sauce- 
pan of  boiling  water.  When  the  juice  is  well  drawn,  which  will  be  from 
J  to  i  hour,  strain  the  fruit  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  or  cloth,  measure 
the  juice,  and  to  each  pint  allow  the  above  proportion  of  loaf  sugar. 
Put  the  juice  and  sugar  into  a  preserving-pan,  place  it  over  the  fire, 
and  boil  gently  until  the  jelly  thickens  upon  a  little  being  poured  on 
a  cold  plate;  carefully  remove  all  the  scum  as  it  rises,  pour  the  jelly 
into  small  pots,  cover  down,  and  keep  in  a  dry  place.  This  jelly  ar 
for  making  raspberry  cream,  and  for  flavouring  various  sweet  dishes, 
when  the  fresh  fruit  is  not  obtainable. 

Time. — About   i£  hours.     Average  Cost,   lod.  to  is.  per  Ib. 

2590.— RED  CURRANT  JAM. 

Ingredients. — Red  currants,   preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks,  put  the  fruit  into  a  preserving-pan, 
and  to  each  Ib.  allow  $  of  a  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar.  Stir  occasionally 
until  the  fruit  is  nearly  boiling,  and  afterwards  almost  continuously. 
Boil  gently  for  about  40  minutes,  or  until  a  little  will  set  when  poured 
on  to  a  cold  plate.  Turn  into  pots,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool, 
dry  place. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  about  6d.  per  Ib. 

2591.— RED  CURRANT  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — Red  currants,  preserving  sr 

Method. — Strip  the  currants  from  the  stalks,  put  them  into  a  jar  placed 
in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  juice  is 
extracted,  then  strain  the  juice  through  a  jelly-bag  or  fine  cloth 
into  a  preserving-pan.  To  each  pint  add  from  \  to  i  Ib.  of  sugar,  and 


H58  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

• 

boil  gently  until  a  little  of  the  jelly,  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate,  almost 
immediately  sets.  Pour  into  small  pots,  cover  closely,  and  keep  in  a 
cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  per  Ib. 

2592.— RHUBARB  JAM. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  rhubarb  allow  i  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  and  the  finely-grated  rind  of  \  a  lemon. 

Method. — Remove  the  outer  stringy  part  of  the  rhubarb,  cut  it  into 
short  lengths,  and  weigh  it.  Put  it  into  a  preserving-pan  with  sugar, 
ginger,  and  lemon-rind  in  the  above  proportions,  place  the  pan  by  the 
side  of  the  fire,  and  let  the  contents  come  very  slowly  to  boiling  point, 
stirring  occasionally  meanwhile.  Boil  until  the  jam  sets  quickly, 
when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Pour  it  into  pots,  cover  closely,  and  store 
in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — From  i  to  \\  hours,  according  to  the  age  of  the  rhubarb. 
Average  Cost,  4d.  per  Ib. 

2593.— RHUBARB  AND  ORANGE  JAM. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  finely-cut  rhubarb,  6  oranges,  \\  Ibs.  of  pre- 
serving sugar. 

Method. — Cut  the  rinds  of  the  oranges  into  sections,  remove  them 
and  scrape  off  as  much  of  the  white  pith  as  possible.  Free  the  pulp 
from  fibrous  skin  and  pips,  put  it  into  a  preserving  pan,  with  the  sugar, 
rhubarb  and  orange-rinds,  previously  finely-shredded.  Bring  slowly 
to  boiling  point,  skim  well,  and  boil  until  the  jam  stiffens  when  tested 
on  a  cold  plate.  Cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About    i    hour.     Average  Cost,  4d.   to   5d.   per  Ib. 

2594.— RHUBARB  MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — Rhubarb.  To  each  Ib.  allow  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 
and  £  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger. 

Method. — Wipe,  string,  and  cut  the  rhubarb  into  short  lengths. 
Put  the  rhubarb,  sugar  and  ginger  in  a  jar,  place  the  jar  in  a  rather 
cool  oven,  or  in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water,  and  cook  until 
soft.  Pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  use  for  filling  turnovers  and 
similar  kinds  of  pastry. 

Time, — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  id.  to  2d.  per  Ib.  Seasonable, 
January  to  July. 

2595.— STRAWBERRY  JAM. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  from  12  to  1 6  ozs.  of  preserving 
sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  from  the  fruit,  put  it  into  a  preserving- 
pan,  covering  each  layer  thickly  with  sugar.  Place  the  pan  by  the  side 
of  the  fire,  bring  the  contents  slowly  to  boiling  point,  and  stir  occasion- 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1159 

ally.  Skim  well,  boil  gently  until  the  jam  sets  when  tested  on  a  cold 
plate,  taking  care  in  stirring  to  keep  the  fruit  as  whole  as  possible. 
Pour  into  pots,  cover  with  paper  brushed  over  on  both  sides  with 
white  of  egg,  and  keep  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  from  6d.  to  Sd.  per  Ib. 

2596.— STRAWBERRIES,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — An  equal  weight  of  fruit  and  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Strawberries  for  preserving  must  be  very  dry,  otherwise 
they  will  not  keep;  the  stalks  must  be  removed,  and  any  unsound  fruit 
rejected.  Put  the  sugar  into  a  preserving-pan;  to  each  Ib.  add  £  a  pint 
of  cold  water  and  a  small  pinch  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  boil  to  the 
"  small  ball  "  degree  (see  No.  2271).  Now  put  in  the  prepared  fruit, 
cover  the  pan,  allow  it  to  remain  on  the  stove,  but  as  far  away  from  the 
fire  as  possible,  for  about  i  hour,  then  bring  the  contents  to  boiling 
point  and  skim  well.  Boil  gently  for  5  minutes,  then  turn  into  jars, 
cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  6d,  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

2597.— STRAWBERRIES,  TO  PRESERVE.  (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  i  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar 
and  £  of  a  pint  of  red-currant  juice  (see  Red  Currant  Jelly,  No.  2591). 

Method. — Pick  the  strawberries,  pile  them  on  a  large  dish,  sprinkle 
on  them  half  the  sugar,  and  let  them  remain  thus  until  the  following 
day.  Prepare  the  red-currant  juice  as  directed,  put  it  into  a  preserving- 
pan  with  the  rest  of  the  sugar,  and  boil  to  a  thin  syrup.  Turn  the  fruit 
and  syrup  into  the  juice,  and  boil  gentlv  until  the  syrup  sets  quickly 
when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Pour  gently  into  pots,  cover  with  paper 
coated  on  both  sides  with  white  of  egg,  and  keep  until  required  in  a 
cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — Altogether,  2  days.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

2598.— TANGERINE    MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — 30  tangerines,  double  their  weight  in  loaf  or  preserving 
sugar,  6  lemons,  enough  cold  water  to  float  the  tangerines. 

Method. — Wash  the  tangerines  in  water  and  wipe  them.  Place 
them  in  a  preserving  pan  with  enough  cold  water  to  float  them,  and 
let  them  boil  till  the  rinds  are  soft.  Drain  off  the  water.  Cut  each 
tangerine  in  quarters,  remove  the  pips,  place  in  a  basin  containing  a 
pint  of  cold  water,  and  let  them  soak  for  twelve  hours.  Remove  all 
the  pulp  from  the  rind,  and  mash  it  well,  slice  the  peel  as  thinly  as 
possible.  Put  the  sugar  in  a  preserving  pan  with  the  water  iDia  the 
pips,  and  the  juice  of  the  lemons.  Reduce  this  to  the 

consistency  of  thick  syrup,  then  add  the  tangerine  pulp  and  rinds. 


n6o        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  boil  for  about  half  an  hour.     Fill  into  dry  jars,  and  when  cold 
cover  them  with  parchment. 

Note. — Before  removing  the  marmalade  from  the  fire,  pour  a  little  on  a 
plate  which  should  set  like  jelly  when  cold,  if  not,  reduce  it  a  little  longer. 

2599._TO  CLARIFY  SUGAR  FOR  SYRUP. 

Ingredients. — To  2  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar  allow  i  pint  of  water  and  the  white 
of  i  egg. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar,  white  of  egg  and  water  into  a  stewpan; 
when  the  sugar  is  dissolved  place  the  stewpan  by  the  side  of  the  fire, 
and  bring  the  contents  slowly  to  boiling  point.  When  quite  boiling 
add  a  teacupful  of  cold  water,  and  again  bring  to  boiling  point.  Now 
draw  the  pan  aside,  simmer  gently  for  a  few  minutes,  skimming  mean- 
while, and  when  quite  clear  use  as  required. 

2600. — TOMATO  JAM.  (See  Tomato  Marmalade, 
No.  2601,  and  Tomatoes,  Preserve  of, 
No.  2602.) 

2601.— TOMATO  MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — 7  Ibs.  of  ripe  tomatoes,  8  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  6  lemons,  i 
pint  of  water. 

Method. — Blanch  and  skin  the  tomatoes  and  cut  them  in  halves. 
Remove  the  rinds  and  all  the  white  pith  of  the  lemons,  and  slice  the 
fruit  thinly.  Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  a  thin  syrup,  add  the  pre- 
pared tomatoes  and  lemons,  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Stir  and  skim 
frequently,  and  continue  to  boil  gently  until  the  marmalade  quickly 
jellies  when  tested  on  a  cold  plate.  Pour  into  pots  or  glasses,  and  store 
in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 

2602.— TOMATOES,  PRESERVE  OF. 

Ingredients. — 7  Ibs.  of  firm  ripe  tomatoes,  3^  Ibs.  of  sugar,  i  oz.  each 
of  cloves,  allspice  and  cinnamon,  i  pint  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Scald,  drain  and  peel  the  tomatoes.  Tie  the  spices  in 
muslin,  boil  them  for  5  minutes  with  the  sugar  in  the  vinegar,  then  add 
the  tomatoes,  and  simmer  very  gently  for  %  an  hour.  Keep  closely 
covered  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Time. — To  cook  the  tomatoes,  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d. 
per  Ib.  Seasonable  in  August,  September  and  October. 

2603.— VEGETABLE  MARROW,  TO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  marrow  allow  i  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon-juice,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  i  lemon, 
and  \  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1161 

Method. — Pare  and  halve  the  marrow,  remove  the  seeds,  and  slice 
thinly.  Lay  the  slices  on  a  large  dish,  covering  each  layer  thickly 
with  sugar,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  let  the  whole  remain  thus  for  3 
days.  At  the  end  of  the  time  turn  the  preparation  into  a  preserving- 
pan,  add  the  lemon-rind  and  ginger,  and  £  a  pint  of  cold  water  to  3  Ibs. 
of  fruit,  bring  slowly  to  boiling  point,  continue  the  cooking  until  the 
slices  of  marrow  are  quite  tender  but  not  broken.  Transfer  carefully 
to  an  earthenware  bowl,  let  it  remain  covered  for  3  days,  then  lift  the 
slices  of  marrow  carefully  into  jars,  and  strain  the  syrup  into  a  pre- 
serving-pan. Boil  it  to  the  "  large  pearl  "  degree  (see  No.  2268),  pour 
it  over  the  marrow,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

Time. — Altogether,    6    days.     Average    Cost,    5d.    per   Ib. 

2604.— VEGETABLE     MARROW,     TO     PRESERVE. 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — An  equal  weight  of  marrow  and  sugar.  To  each  Ib. 
of  marrow  allow  £  of  an  oz.  of  whole  ginger,  and  the  grated  rind  and 
juice  of  £  a  lemon. 

Method. — Prepare  the  marrow  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  pile  the 
slices  on  a  large  dish,  with  the  sugar  spread  in  layers,  and  allow  it  to 
remain  thus  until  the  following  day.  Then  turn  the  whole  into  a  pre- 
serving-pan, add  the  lemon-rind  and  lemon-juice,  the  ginger  cut  into 
small  pieces,  and  boil  very  gently  until  the  greater  part  of  the  moisture 
is  absorbed.  Turn  into  pots,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — Altogether,  2  days.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  5d.  per  Ib. 

2605.— WHITE  CURRANT  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — White  currants.  To  each  pint  of  juice  allow  £  of  a  Ib. 
of  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Pick  the  currants  from  the  stalk,  and  put  them  into  a  jar. 
Place  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  simmer  gently  until  the 
juice  is  extracted,  then  strain  through  a  jelly-bag  or  fine  cloth  into  a 
preserving-pan.  To  each  pint  allow  from  £  to  i  Ib.  of  sugar,  according 
to  taste,  and  boil  gontly  until  the  jelly  quickly  sets,  when  a  little  is 
ponred  on  a  cold  plate.  Turn  into  small  pots,  cover  with  tissue  paper 
brushed  over  with  white  of  egg,  fasten  securely,  and  keep  th« 
in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  from  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  per  Ib. 


Pickles 

2606.— APPLE  CHUTNEY. 

Ingredients. — 2^  Ibs.  of  thickly  sliced  apples,  i    Ib.  of  brown  sn.Tar, 
£  of  a  Ib.  o 


n62  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

of  ground  ginger,  £  of  an  oz.  of  garlic  bruised,  -J-  of  an  oz.  of  cayenne, 
i  pint  of  good  vinegar. 

Method. — Simmer  the  vinegar,  sugar  and  apples  gently  until  reduced 
to  a  pulp,  stir  in  the  remaining  ingredients,  and,  when  well  mixed, 
turn  the  whole  into  a  basin.  Cover,  stir  2  or  3  times  daily  for  i  week, 
then  bottle,  cork  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

2607.— ARTICHOKES,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Globe  artichokes,  spiced  vinegar  (see  recipe  for  Vinegar, 
Spiced,  No.  2704),  salad-oil,  salt. 

Method. — Make  a  strong  brine;  when  boiling  put  in  the  artichokes, 
boil  gently  for  10  or  15  minutes,  and  drain  well.  Remove  and  put  aside 
the  chokes,  place  the  artichokes  in  jars,  and  cover  them  with  boiling 
spiced  vinegar.  When  cold,  fill  the  jars  with  salad-oil,  cover  closely, 
and  store  for  use. 

2608.— BEETROOT  PICKLE. 

Ingredients. — 6  medium-sized  beetroots,  i  quart  of  malt  vinegar, 
\  an  oz.  of  whole  black  pepper,  ^  an  oz.  of  allspice,  i  small  horseradish 
grated,  salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Wash  the  beetroots  well,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  skins, 
and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  for  i£  hours.  When  cool  enough 
to  handle  remove  the  skins,  cut  the  beetroots  into  £-inch  slices,  and 
place  them  in  jars.  Meanwhile  boil  the  vinegar,  horseradish,  pepper 
and  spice  together,  let  the  mixture  become  quite  cold,  then  pour  in 
over  the  beetroot.  Cover  the  jars  closely  with  parchment  paper  coated 
on  both  sides  with  white  of  egg,  and  store  until  required  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

Time. — From  2  to  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d. 

2609.— BEETROOT  PICKLE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 6  beetroots,  i  quart  of  vinegar,  %  an  oz.  of  whole  pepper, 
£  an  oz.  of  allspice. 

Method. — Wash  the  beetroots  well,  but  take  care  to  keep  the  skins 
intact,  or  they  will  lose  some  of  their  colouring  matter.  Put  them 
into  boiling  water,  cook  gently  for  i£  hours,  until  they  are  three- 
quarters  cooked,  then  drain  them,  and  let  them  cool.  Boil  the  spice, 
pepper  and  vinegar  together,  and  put  these  aside  until  quite  cold, 
meanwhile  peel  the  beetroots,  cut  them  into  £  inch  slices,  and  place 
them  in  jars.  Pour  the  cold  prepared  vinegar  over  them,  cover  closely, 
and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  The  pickle  will  be  ready  for  use  in  i 
week. 

Time. — About    2\    hours.     Average    Cost,    is.    4d. 

2610.— BLUEBERRIES,  OR  BILBERRIES,  PICKLED. 
(See  Currants,  Spiced,  No.  2524,  and  Cherries, 
Pickled,  No.  2618.) 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1163 

2611.— CABBAGE,  PICKLED  RED. 

Ingredients. — i  good,  firm  red  cabbage,  i  quart  of  vinegar,  £  an  oz. 
of  whole  pepper,  £  an  oz.  of  allspice. 

Method. — Remove  the  outer  leaves  of  the  cabbage,  quarter  it,  remove 
the  centre  stalk,  and  cut  each  section  across  into  very  fine  strips. 
Pile  the  shredded  cabbage  on  a  large  dish,  sprinkle  it  liberally  with 
salt,  and  let  it  remain  thus  until  the  following  day.  Meanwhile  boil 
the  vinegar,  pepper  and  spice  together,  the  latter  being  tied  together 
in  a  piece  of  muslin,  and  allow  the  preparation  to  become  quite  cold. 
Turn  the  cabbage  into  an  earthenware  or  enamelled  colander,  and 
when  well  drained  put  it  into  a  large  jar,  and  pour  in  the  vinegar.  It 
will  be  fit  for  use  in  3  or  4  days;  if  kept  for  any  length  of  time  it  loses 
the  crispness  and  colour  which  are  its  chief  recommendations. 

Time. — Altogether,    2    days.     Average    Cost,    9d.    to    xod. 

RED  CABBAGE.— This  plant,  in  its  growth,  is  similar  in  form  to  that  of  the  white  cabbage,  but  is 
of  a  bluish-purple  colour,  which,  however,  turns  red  on  the  application  of  arid,  as  is  the  case  with  all 
vegetable  blues.  It  is  principally  from  the  white  vegetable  that  the  Germans  make  their  sautr  kraut 
— a  dish  held  in  such  high  estimation  with  the  inhabitants  of  Germany,  but  which  requires,  generally 
:  with  strangers,  a  lone  acquaintance  in  order  to  become  sufficiently  impressed  with  its  numer- 
ous merits.  The  large  red  Dutch  is  the  kind  generally  recommended  for  pickling. 

2612.— CABBAGE,  PICKLED  RED.    (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  good  cabbage,  i  quart  of  malt  vinegar,  £  an  oz.  of 
black  peppercorns,  £  an  oz.  of  allspice. 

Method. — Remove  the  outer  leaves  of  the  cabbage,  quarter  it,  cut 
away  the  stalk  from  the  centre,  and  shred  the  sections  across  as  finely 
as  possible.  Put  the  prepared  cabbage  into  a  large  jar,  sprinkle  each 
layer  with  salt,  and  press  the  whole  lightly  down.  Boil  the  pepper 
and  spice  in  the  vinegar;  when  cold,  pour  it  over  the  jars,  and  cover 
them  closely.  The  pickle  will  be  ready  for  use  in  3  or  4  days;  it  may  be 
kept  for  a  considerable  time,  but  after  being  pickled  for  2  or  3  weeks 
it  loses  much  of  its  crispness  and  colour. 

Time. — To  prepare,  about  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.  to  rod. 

2613.— CAPSICUM,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Capsicums,  vinegar.  To  each  quart  of  vinegar  allow 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  £  a  teaspoonful  of  mace  and  nutmeg  mixed 
in  equal  proportions. 

Method. — If  the  capsicums  can  be  obtained  from  the  garden,  they 
should  be  gathered  when  they  are  just  at  the  point  of  turning  red. 
Slit  them  at  the  side,  take  out  the  seeds,  put  the  capsicums  into  a  jar, 
and  sprinkle  over  them  the  salt,  mace  and  nutmeg.  Boil  the  vinegar, 
pour  it  at  once  upon  the  pods,  and,  when  cold,  cover  closely  with  parch- 
ment paper  or  bladder.  They  will  be  ready  for  use  in  4  or  5  weeks. 

Average  Cost. — From  43.  6d.  to  53.  6d.  per  hundred. 


n64  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2614.— CAPSICUMS,  PICKLED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Young  green  capsicums,  vinegar.  To  each  quart  allow 
i  teaspoonf ul  of  salt  and  \  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks,  scald  the  capsicums,  and  let  them  re- 
main under  pressure  for  24  hours,  to  extract  some  of  their  bitter  water. 
Pack  the  capsicums  closely  in  a  jar,  pour  over  them  boiling  vinegar 
seasoned  with  salt  and  mace,  and,  when  quite  cold,  cover  closely. 
They  will  be  ready  for  use  in  5  or  6  weeks. 

2615.— CAULIFLOWERS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Firm  white  cauliflowers,  vinegar  to  cover  them;  to 
each  quart  of  which  allow  i  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns,  i  teaspoonful 
of  allspice,  6  cloves. 

Method. — Break  the  cauliflowers  into  small  sprays,  place  them  on  a 
dish,  sprinkle  them  liberally  with  salt,  and  let  them  remain  thus  for 
6  hours.  Meanwhile  tie  the  seasoning  ingredients  in  muslin,  boil  them 
in  the  vinegar  for  \  an  hour,  and  allow  it  to  become  quite  cold.  Drain 
the  cauliflowers  well  from  the  salt,  place  them  in  wide-necked  bottles 
or  unglazed  jars3  and  pour  the  prepared  vinegar  over  them.  Cover 
closely,  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  about  i  month,  and  they  will  then 
be  ready  for  use. 

Time. — i  month.     Average  Cost,  cauliflowers,  ys>.  6d.  to  43.  per  doz. 

2616.— CAULIFLOWER,  PICKLED.  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Firm  white  cauliflowers,  vinegar  to  cover  them.  To 
each  quart  of  vinegar  allow  i  teapsoonful  of  peppercorns,  i  teaspoonful 
of  allspice. 

Method. — Tie  the  peppercorns  and  allspice  in  muslin,  simmer  these 
very  gently  in  the  vinegar  for  about  20  minutes,  and  put  aside  until 
quite  cold.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling,  highly-salted  water, 
break  the  cauliflowers  into  small  sprays,  throw  them  into  the  water, 
boil  for  5  minutes,  and  drain  well.  When  quite  cold  put  them  into  wide- 
necked  bottles  or  unglazed  jars,  with  a  few  peppercorns  and  a  little 
allspice,  cover  with  the  prepared  vinegar,  and  cover  closely.  They 
should  be  ready  for  use  in  3  or  4  weeks. 

Time. — From  3  to  4  weeks.  Average  Cost,  Cauliflowers,  33.  6d.  to 43. 
pea:  dozen. 

2617.— CAULIFLOWERS  PICKLED,  WITH  ONIONS. 

Ingredients. — An  equal  weight  of  cauliflower  sprays  and  silver-onions, 
vinegar  to  cover.  To  each  quart  of  vinegar  allow  i  level  teaspoonful 
of  peppercorns,  i  level  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  i  level  teaspoonful  of 
black  pepper,  i  blade  of  mace,  i  oz.  of  turmeric,  i  tablespoonful  of 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES 

curry-powder,    i    tablespoonful   of   dry   mustard,    I    tablespoonful   of 
salt,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon- juice,  i  tablespoonful  of  raw  lime-juice. 

Method. — Put  as  much  water  as  will  cover  the  sprays  of  cauliflower 

into  a  large  saucepan ;  to  each  quart  add  4  ozs.  of  salt ,  boil  for  10  minutes, 

and  allow  it  to  become  quite  cold.     Break  the  cauliflowers  into 

sprays,  cover  them  with  the  cold  brine,  let  them  remain  immersed  for 

S  then  drain  well.     IVrl  the  onions,  place  them  in  jars  or  wide- 

d  bottles  in  layers  alternating  wr  s  of  cauliflower;  sprinkle 

each  layer  with  a  little  allspice,  a  few  peppercorns,  and  i  or  2  pieces  of 

mace.      Mix    the   black    pepper,    turmeric,    curry  -  powder,    mustard 

and    salt,  lemon-juice  and  •,  to    a   smooth  paste,  add   the 

vinegar  gradually,  and  pour  the  whole  over  the  cauliflowers  and  t> 

.md  store  in  a  cool  dry  place.     The  pickle  will  be  ready 
for  use  in  3  or  4  weeks. 

Time. — From  3  to  4  weeks.     Average  Cost,    cauliflowers,  from  33.  6d. 
to  43.  per  doz.    Silver  onions,  2d.  to  3d.  per  Ib. 

2618.— CHERRIES,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Sound,  not  over-ripe  Kentish  cherries;  French  vinegar 
to  co-.  To  each  pint  of  vinegar  allow  }  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  and  to 

the  whole  add  cayenne  to  taste.  ops  of  cochineal  or  can 

Method. — Pick  the  cherries  careful!  ug  those  which  are  not 

^ound,  leave  about  i  inch  of  th  I  put  the  fruit  into 

jars.     Boil  th«-  add  to  it  the  sugar  and  cayenne, 

Ixril  for  a  -\  turn  i:  .\re  vessel. 

;  cold,  add  a  few  drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal,  pour  it  over  the 
:<*s,  cover  close!  »ol,  dry  place. 

Time. — From  3  to  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

26i9.-CHERRIES,  PICKLED.    (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — Sound,  not  over- ripe  K  s,  good  vinegar  to 

them,  to  each  quart  of  vinegar  allow  i  Ib.  of  sugar. 

Method. — Lea  .  of  the  stalks  on  the  cherries,  and  pack  them 

liK'htl.  Boil  the  vinegar  and  sugar  together,  pour  it  whilst 

hot  over  the  fruit,  and  when  cold  tie  paper  over  the  jars.     Let  them 

in  a  cool  place  for  i  v  a  drain  of!  the  vinegar,  boil  and 

skim  again  po:  hot  over  the  fruit.     When  cold  cover 

.  a  cool,  dry  place. 
Time. — 7  days.     Average  Cost,  from  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 

2620.— CHUTNEY,  ENGLISH. 

Ingredients.— 3  dozen  sour  apples,  3  Ibs.  of  coarse  brown  sugar,  $  a 

Kins,  |  a  Ib.  of  green  ginger,  6  o/ 

^,  2  ozs.  of   mustard-seed.  5  medium-sized  Spanish  onions, 
6  shallots,  3  quarts  of  good  :  ;ar. 


n66  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method.  —  Dissolve  the  salt  and  sugar  in  the  vinegar,  strain,  and 
return  it  to  the  stewpan.  Add  the  apples,  onions  and  ginger,  all  thinly 
sliced,  the  sultanas  cleaned  and  picked,  also  the  rest  of  the  in- 
gredients, and  cook  very  gently  until  the  apples  and  onions  are  quite 
tender.  Pour  into  small  jars  or  wide-necked  bottles  ;  when  cold,  cover 
closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2621.— CHUTNEY,  INDIAN. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  malt  vinegar,  i  Ib.  of  sour  apples,  peeled, 
cored  and  sliced,  %  a  Ib.  of  onions,  peeled  and  coarsely  chopped,  i  Ib.  of 
moist  sugar,  •£  a  Ib.  of  raisins  stoned  and  quartered,  4  ozs.  of  salt,  4 
ozs.  of  ground  ginger,  2  ozs.  of  dry  mustard,  £  of  an  oz.  of  cayenne,  4 
cloves  of  garlic  finely-chopped. 

Method. — Cook  the  apples,  onions  and  garlic  with  the  salt,  sugar  and 
vinegar,  until  quite  soft,  and  pass  them  through  a  fine  hair  sieve. 
Add  the  raisins,  ginger,  cayenne  and  mustard,  mix  well  together,  turn 
into  a  jar,  and  stand  it  in  a  warm,  but  not  hot,  place  until  the  following 
day.  Have  ready  some  perfectly  dry,  wide-necked  small  bottles  or 
jars,  fill  them  with  chutney,  and  cover  closely  so  as  to  exclude  the  air. 
This  chutney  may  be  kept  for  a  year  or  two. 

2622.— CHUTNEY  MANGO. 

Ingredients. — 50  green  mangoes,  6  pints  of  vinegar,  3  Ibs.  of  sugar, 
2  Ibs.  of  tamarinds  stoned,  i  Ib.  of  raisins  stoned,  i  Ib.  of  green  ginger 
sliced,  i  good  teaspoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon,  i  level  teaspoonful 
of  nutmeg,  i  Ib.  of  salt. 

Method. — Peel  and  slice  the  mangoes  thinly,  sprinkle  over  them  the 
salt,  let  them  remain  for  36  hours,  then  drain  well.  Make  a  syrup 
by  boiling  together  3  pints  of  vinegar  and  the  sugar.  Put  the 
remainder  of  the  vinegar  into  a  preserving  pan,  add  the  mangoes, 
boil  up,  simme-r  gently  for  10  minutes,  then  add  the  tamarinds,  raisins, 
ginger,  cinnamon  and  nutmeg.  Cook  very  slowly  for  £  an  hour, 
adding  the  syrup  gradually  during  the  last  10  minutes.  Stir  and  boil 
the  mixture  until  the  greater  part  of  the  syrup  is  absorbed,  then  turn 
into  bottles,  cork  securely,  and  store  in  a  dry  place. 

Time. — About  i£  hours  to  cook.  Average  Cost,  53.,  exclusive  of  the 
mangoes. 

2623.— CHUTNEY  SAUCE,  INDIAN. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  sour  apples,  pared,  cored  and  sliced,  4  ozs.  of 
tomatoes  sliced,  4  ozs.  of  salt,  4  ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  raisins 
stoned,  2  ozs.  of  cayenne,  2  ozs.  of  ground  ginger,  i  oz.  of  shallots, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  garlic,  3  pints  of  malt  vinegar,  i  pint  of  lemon-juice. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1167 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  in  a  jar.  Cover,  keep  in  a 
moderately  warm  place  for  i  month,  and  stir  2  or  3  times  daily.  At 
the  end  of  the  time  strain  off  the  liquor,  let  the  residue  drain  well, 
but  do  not  squeeze  it.  Pour  into  small  bottles,  and  cork  tightly. 

2624.— CHUTNEY,  TOMATO. 

Ingredients. — 6  Ibs.  of  ripe  tomatoes,  3  Ibs.  of  sour  cooking  apples, 
4  ozs.  of  salt,  8  ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  3  pints  of  vinegar,  6  cloves  of  garlic, 
6  ozs.  of  ground  ginger,  i  oz.  of  mustard-seed. 

Method. — Scald  the  tomatoes,  remove  the  skin,  cut  them  into  slices, 
and  put  them  into  an  earthenware  cooking-pot  with  the  vinegar,  salt 
and  apples,  previously  peeled,  cored  and  chopped  finely.  When  the 
fruit  is  soft,  rub  the  whole  through  a  sieve,  add  the  sugar,  ginger 
and  mustard-seed,  also  the  garlic  (chopped  finely),  and  boil  the  whole 
gently  from  £  to  £  of  an  hour.  Pour  the  contents  of  the  cooking-pot 
into  a  jar,  cover  it,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  about  3  days. 
Bottle  the  chutney  for  use,  cork  up  tightly,  and  exclude  the  air.  Sul- 
tanas or  preserved  ginger  are  sometimes  added  to  the  above. 

2625.— COCKLES,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Large  cockles,  vinegar  to  cover  them,  peppercorns, 
allspice,  salt. 

Method. — The  large  cockles  found  on  the  north-east  coast  are  the 
best  for  this  purpose.  Wash  them  in  several  waters  to  remove  the  grit  • 
when  quite  free  from  it  cover  the  cockles  with  cold  water,  add  a  good 
handful  each  of  salt  and  oatmeal,  and  let  them  remain  until  the  follow- 
ing day.  To  each  quart  of  cockles  allow  a  small  |  teaspoonful  of  all- 
spice, and  the  same  quantity  of  peppercorns.  Tie  these  spices  in  muslin 
and  boil  them  in  the  vinegar  for  20  minutes.  Put  the  cockles  into  a 
steamer,  or,  failing  this,  a  large  iron  saucepan  with  2  or  3  tablespoon  - 
fuls  of  water  to  protect  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  cover  them  first  with  a 
wet  kitchen-cloth,  then  the  lid,  and  cook  the  cocl  ly  until 

their  shells  may  be  easily  opened  with  the  point  of  a  knife.  Put  the 
cockles  into  the  prepared  cold  vinegar,  and  the  liquor  contained  in  the 
shells  into  a  basin,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  quite  cold  strain  it  into  the 
vinegar.  Cockles  or  oysters  pickled  in  this  way  may  be  kept  some 
days. 

Time. — To  steam  the  cockles,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
(1.  per  quart. 

2626.— CUCUMBERS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Cucumbers,  go>  ir  to  cover  them.     To  earh  pint 

of  vinegar  allow  \  an  oz.  ot  p'^jx-n  <>i  n->,   I  an  oz.  of  allspice,  }  a  t- 
nful  of  salt. 


u68         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Peel  the  cucumbers,  cut  them  into  £-inch  slices,  sprinkle 
them  liberally  with  salt,  and  let  them  remain  until  the  following  day. 
Let  the  cucumber  drain  for  at  least  2  hours  on  a  hair  sieve,  then 
place  in  wide-necked  glass  bottles.  Boil  the  vinegar,  salt,  pepper- 
corns and  spice  together,  pour  it  while  hot  over  the  cucumber,  and 
cover  closely.  If  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place  this  pickle  will  keep  good 
for  some  time,  but  as  it  is  liable  to  become  mouldy  the  bottles  should  be 
frequently  examined.  When  the  first  speck  of  mould  appears  re-boil 
the  vinegar,  immerse  the  slices  of  cucumber  in  it  for  i  minute,  then 
put  them  into  a  clean  dry  bottle,  and  pour  the  boiling  vinegar  over 
them. 

Time. — 2  days.     Average  Cost,  6d.  each. 


2627.— CUCUMBERS,  PRESERVED. 

Ingredients. — Cucumbers,  salt. 

Method. — Pare  and  slice  the  cucumbers  thinly,  sprinkle  liberally  with 
salt,  and  let  them  remain  until  the  following  day.  Drain  off  the 
liquor,  pack  the  slices  closely  in  jars,  sprinkling  each  layer  tliickly  with 
salt,  and  cover  with  parchment  paper,  or  paper  coated  on  both  sides 
with  white  of  egg.  When  wanted  for  use,  wash  well  in  cold  water, 
drain  well,  and  dress  with  pepper,  vinegar  and  oil. 

Time. — 24  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d. 


2628.— DAMSONS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — 7  Ibs.  of  sound,  dry  damson  plums,  4  Ibs.  of  good  pre- 
serving sugar,  |  of  an  oz.  of  stick  cinnamon,  £•  of  an  oz.  of  cloves,  vinegar 
to  cover. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  but  not  the  stems  of  the  fruit,  place 
them  in  layers  in  a  large  jar,  sprinkle  each  layer  with  sugar, 
cinnamon  and  cloves.  Cover  the  whole  with  vinegar,  place  the 
jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  cook  gently  until  the  juice  flows 
freely,  then  put  the  jar  aside  until  the  contents  are  quite  cold. 
Then  drain  the  syrup  into  a  stewpan,  bring  to  boiling  point,  and 
pour  it  over  the  fruit.  Repeat  this  process  for  7  or  8  days,  when  the 
skins  should  be  hard  and  the  plums  have  a  clear  appearance.  After 
the  last  boiling  let  the  plums  remain  in  the  large  jar  for  7  days,  then 
transfer  them  to  smaller  jars.  Boil  the  syrup,  pour  it  over  the  plums, 
and  when  cold  cover  with  a  bladder  or  paper  brushed  over  on  both  sides 
with  white  of  egg.  Cherries  may  be  pickled  in  this  way.  If  stored 
in  a  dry,  moderately  cool  place,  they  may  be  kept  for  years. 

Time. — From  14  to  15  days.  Average  Cost,  damsons  from  2d.  to  6d, 
per  Ib. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1169 

2629.— EGGS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — 16  hard-boiled  eggs,  i  quart  of  good  vinegar,  £  an  oz. 
of  black  peppercorns,  \  an  oz.  of  allspice,  £  an  oz.  of  ginger. 

Method. — Remove  the  shells,  and  arrange  the  eggs  compactly  in 
wide-necked  jars.  Boil  the  peppercorns,  spice,  and  ginger  in  the  vinegar 
until  some  of  their  flavour  is  extracted,  and  pour  it  whilst  boiling  hot 
over  the  eggs.  When  cold,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  2S. 

GINGER  (Fr.  gin$embre). — The  ginger- plant,  known  to  naturalists  as  tingiber  officitudf,  is  a  native 
of  the  East  and  "West  Indies.  It  gro-,vs  somewhat  like  the  lily  of  the  vail.  -:ht  is  about  3 

feet.  In  Jamaica  it  flowers  about  August  or  September,  fading  about  the  end  of  the  year.  The 
:  .-oping  roots,  which  form  the  ginger  of  commerce,  are  in  a  proper  state  to  be  dug  when  the 
stalks  are  entirely  withered.  This  operation  is  usually  performed  in  January  and  February.  When 
the  roots  are  taken  out  of  the  earth,  each  one  is  picked,  scraped,  separately  washed,  and  afterwards 
very  carefully  dried.  Ginger  is  generally  considered  as  less  pungent  and  heating  to  the  system  than 
might  be  expected  from  its  effects  on  the  organs  of  taste,  and  it  is  frequently  used,  with  considerable 
effect,  as  an  anti-spasmodic  and  carmin 

2630.— EXCELLENT  PICKLE  (For  Immediate  Use). 

Ingredients. — Equal  quantities  of  sliced  onion,  cucumber  and  sour 
apple,  salt  and  cayenne  to  taste.  To  £  a  pint  of  vinegar  add  i  wine- 
glassful  each  of  sherry  and  | 

Method. — Place  the  onion,  cucumber  and  apple  in  a  dish  in  alternate 
layers,  add  salt  and  cayenne  to  t.isto,  and  pour  over  the  vinegar,  etc. 
Let  the  pickle  stand  for  a  few  hours  before  serving. 

2631.— FRENCH  BEANS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Youns  French  beans,  spiced  vinegar  (see  Vinegar, 
Spiced,  No.  2704),  some  vine  leaves,  and  salt. 

Method.  Cover  the  beans  with  strong  salt  and  water,  let  them  remain 
for  three  days,  then  drain.  Place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  vine  leaves 
under  and  over,  cover  with  boiling  salted  water,  cook  gently  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  drain  and  pack  loosely  in  jars.  Cover  with  boiling 
spiced  vinegar,  drain  it  off,  and  reboil  on  two  following  days.  The 
pickled  beans  should  be  kept  closely  covered  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2632.— GHERKINS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Gherkins,  vinegar  to  cover.  To  each  quart  of  vinegar 
allow  £  of  an  oz.  of  allspice,  £  of  an  oz.  of  black  peppercorns,  4  cloves, 
2  blades  of  mace. 

Method. — Cover  the  gherkins  with  salt  and  water,  and  let  them  remain 
in  the  brine  for  3  days.     At  the  end  of  the  time  drain  them  well,  dry 
them  with  a  cloth,  and  pack  them  compactly  in  a  jar  of  suitable  size. 
Boil  sufficient  vinegar  to  cover  them,  with  peppercorns  and  sjv 
the  above  proportions,  for  10  minutes,  and  pour  the  liquid  over  the 


H70        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

gherkins.  Cover  closely,  let  the  jar  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  the 
following  day,  then  drain  off  the  vinegar  into  a  saucepan.  Boil  up, 
pour  the  vinegar  at  once  over  the  gherkins,  and  let  them  remain  covered 
until  the  following  day.  This  process  must  be  repeated  daily  until  the 
gherkins  are  sufficiently  green;  they  should  then  be  put  into  wide- 
necked  glar.s  bottles,  covered  completely  with  vinegar,  for  which  pur- 
pose it  may  be  necessary  to  supplement  that  already  used.  They 
should  be  tightly  corked  before  being  stored  away. 

Time. — 5  or  6  days.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  as  they  are  rarely 
sold. 

2633.— HORSERADISH,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Horseradish,  vinegar. 

Method. — Scrape  the  outer  skin  off  the  horseradish,  cut  it  into  j^-inch 
lengths,  and  place  them  in  wide-necked  bottles  or  small  unglazed  jars. 
Cover  with  good  malt  vinegar,  cork  the  bottles  tightly  or  fasten  parch- 
ment paper  securely  over  the  tops  of  the  jars.  Keep  the  pickle  in  a 
cool,  dry  place. 

Average  Cost. — Horseradish,  2d.  to  3d.  per  stick. 

2634.— INDIAN  MAIZE,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Green  corn,  spiced  vinegar  (see  recipe  for  Vinegar, 
Spiced,  No.  2704),  salt. 

Method. — Boil  the  corn  in  salt  and  water,  drain  well,  and  cover  with 
spiced  vinegar.  When  cold,  fasten  down  securely,  and  store  in  a  dry, 
cool  place. 

2635.— INDIAN  PICKLE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  gallon  of  vinegar  allow  6  cloves  of  garlic,  12 
shallots,  2  sticks  of  sliced  horseradish,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  bruised  ginger, 
2  ozs.  of  whole  black  pepper,  i  oz.  of  long  pepper,  i  oz.  of  allspice, 
12  cloves,  £  of  an  oz.  of  cayenne,  2  ozs.  of  mustard  seed,  £  of  a  Ib.  of 
mustard,  i  oz.  of  turmeric,  a  white  cabbage,  cauliflowers,  radish  pods, 
French  beans,  gherkins,  small  round  pickling  onions,  nasturtiums, 
capsicums,  chillies,  etc. 

Method. — Cut  the  cabbage,  which  must  be  hard  and  white,  into  slices, 
and  the  cauliflowers  into  small  branches;  sprinkle  salt  over  them  in  a 
large  dish,  and  let  them  remain  for  2  days.  Then  dry  the  vegetables, 
and  put  them  into  a  very  large  jar,  with  garlic,  shallots,  horseradish, 
ginger,  pepper,  allspice,  and  cloves  in  the  above  proportions.  Boil 
sufficient  vinegar  to  cover  the  ingredients,  and  pour  it  over  them, 
and,  when  cold,  cover  closely.  As  the  other  materials  for  the  pickle 
ripen  at  different  times,  they  may  be  added  as  they  are  ready;  these 
will  be  radish  pods,  French  beans,  gherkins,  small  onions,  nasturtiums, 


, 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1171 


psicums,  chillies,  etc.,  etc.  As  these  are  procured  they  must,  first 
of  all,  be  washed  in  a  little  cold  vinegar,  wiped,  and  then  simply  added 
to  the  other  ingredients  in  the  large  jar,  only  taking  care  that  they 
are  covered  by  the  vinegar.  If  it  should  be  necessary  to  add  more 
vinegar  to  the  pickle,  do  not  omit  to  boil  it  before  adding  it  to  the  rest. 
When  all  the  things  required  are  collected,  turn  all  out  into  a  large 
pan,  thoroughly  mix  them,  put  the  mixed  vegetables  into  smaller 
jars,  without  any  of  the  vinegar,  then  boil  the  vinegar  again,  adding 
as  much  more  as  will  be  required  to  fill  the  different  jars,  also  cayenne, 
mustard-seed,  turmeric,  and  mustard,  which  must  be  well  mixed 
with  a  little  cold  vinegar,  allowing  the  quantities  named  above  to  each 
gallon  of  vinegar.  Pour  the  vinegar,  boiling  hot,  over  the  pickle,  and, 
when  cold,  tie  down  with  a  bladder.  If  the  pickle  is  wanted  for  immedi- 
ate use,  the  vinegar  should  be  boiled  twice  more,  but  the  better  plan 
is  to  make  it  during  one  season  for  use  during  the  next.  This  pickle 
will  keep  for  years,  if  care  is  taken  that  the  vegetables  are  quite  covered 
by  the  vinegar. 

2636. -LEMON  PICKLE. 

Ingredients. — 12  lemons,  i  Ib.  of  baysalt,  4  ozs.  of  mustard-seed  (tied 
in  muslin),  2  ozs.  of  garlic  peeled,  £  an  oz.  of  grated  nutmeg,  £  an  oz. 
of  ground  mace,  £  of  an  oz.  of  ground  cloves,  i  quart  of  white-wine 
vinegar. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  the  lemons  in  thin  slices,  and  put  them 
aside  to  be  afterwards  dried  and  used  for  flavouring  purposes.  Leave 
all  the  pith  on  the  lemons,  cut  them  lengthwise  and  across,  thus  forming 
4  quarters,  sprinkle  over  them  the  salt,  and  place  them  singly  on  a  large 
dish.  Let  the  dish  remain  near  the  fire  until  all  the  juice  of  the  lemons 
has  dried  into  the  pith,  then  put  them  into  a  large  jar.  Add  the  rest 
of  the  ingredients,  cover  closely,  and  let  it  stand  near  the  fire,  but  not 
on  the  stove,  for  5  days.  At  the  end  of  the  time,  cover  the  lid  with 
parchment  paper  or  bladder,  and  put  the  jar  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  At 
the  end  of  3  months  strain  off  the  vinegar  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  press 
the  fruit  well  to  extract  as  much  moisture  as  possible.  Strain  2  or  3 
times,  and,  when  quite  clear,  bottle  for  use. 

Average  Cost. — 2S.  4d. 

2637.— LEMONS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — 12  lemons,  vinegar  to  cover  them.  To  each  quart  of 
vinegar  allow  i  oz.  of  mustard-seed,  i  oz.  of  whole  ginger,  |  an  oz.  of 
peppercorns,  £  an  oz.  of  cloves,  £  of  an  oz.  of  mace,  £  of  an  oz.  of  chillies. 

Method. — Make  a  brine  strong  enough  to  float  an  egg,  put  in  the 
lemons,  allow  them  to  remain  immersed  for  6  days,  stirring  them  2  or  3 
times  daily.  At  the  end  of  this  time,  put  the  lemons  into  a  saucepan 
of  boiling  water,  boil  steadily  for  15  minutes,  then  drain  well,  allow 


1 1 72  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

them  to  become  quite  cold,  and  put  them  into  jars.  Boil  the  vinegar, 
spices,  etc.,  together  until  sufficiently  seasoned  and  flavoured,  then  pour 
the  mixture,  boiling  hot,  over  the  lemons,  and  cover  closely.  They  will 
be  ready  for  use  in  6  months,  and  should  in  the  meantime  be  kept  in  a 
cool,  dry  place.  Average  Cost. — Lemons,  from  is.  to  is.  6d. 

2638.— LEMONS,  PICKLED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 12  lemons,  salt,  vinegar  to  cover.  To  each  quart  of 
vinegar  allow  i  oz.  of  mustard-seed,  i  oz.  of  whole  ginger,  \  an  oz.  of 
peppercorns,  \  an  oz.  of  cloves,  £  of  an  oz.  of  mace,  \  of  an  oz.  of  chillies. 

Method. — Peel  the  lemons,  slit  each  one  lengthwise  in  3  or  4  places, 
and  sprinkle  the  cut  surfaces  thickly  with  salt.  Place  them  in  an 
earthenware  pan,  sprinkle  them  liberally  with  salt,  and  turn  them  daily 
for  a  week.  At  the  end  of  this  time,  place  the  lemons  singly  on  a  large 
dish,  let  them  remain  near  the  fire  until  quite  dry,  and  put  them  into 
jars.  Boil  the  vinegar,  peppercorns,  etc.,  together  as  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  pour  while  boiling  over  the  lemons,  and  cover  closely.  Store  in  a 
cool,  dry  place  for  about  6  months,  when  they  should  be  ready  for  use. 

2639.— LIMES,    PICKLED.         (See    Lemons,    Pickled, 
No.  2636.) 

2640.— MANGOES,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Mangoes,  green  ginger  sliced,  mustard  seed,  garlic 
bruised,  spiced  vinegar  (see  recipe  for  Vinegar,  Spiced,  No.  2704). 

Method. — Halve  and  stone  the  mangoes,  stuff  them  with  a  mixture 
of  ginger,  mustard  seed  and  garlic,  replace  the  halves,  and  fasten  them 
securely  with  strong  cotton.  Cover  the  mangoes  with  boiling  spiced 
vinegar.  On  the  following  day  strain  off  the  vinegar,  reboil,  and 
repeat  the  process  on  the  two  following  days,  four  times  in  all.  When 
cold,  turn  the  preparation  into  jars,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a 
dry,  cool  place. 

2641.— MELONS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Small  melons,  small  French  beans,  grated  horseradish, 
cloves,  ground  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  to  each  quart 
add  i  teaspoonful  each  of  cloves,  allspice  and  black  peppercorns. 

Method. — Cut  off  one  end,  scoop  out  the  inside  of  each  melon,  then 
replace  and  secure  the  end.  Cover  the  melons  with  strong  brine, 
let  them  remain  undisturbed  for  4  days,  then  drain  and  dry  well. 
Sprinkle  the  inside  of  each  melon  liberally  with  cloves,  cinnamon, 
nutmeg  and  pepper,  and  stuff  them  with  well-seasoned  French  beans 
and  horseradish.  Replace,  and  tie  on  the  ends,  and  pack  the  melons 
in  a  large  jar,  keeping  the  cut  ends  uppermost.  Boil  the  vinegar  and 
spices  together  for  10  minutes,  and,  when  cold,  pour  the  liquid  over  the 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1173 

melons.  On  three  consecutive  days  reboil  the  vinegar,  and  pour  it 
boiling  over  the  melons.  When  cold,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool, 
dry  place. 

2642.— MIXED  PICKLES. 

Ingredients. — To  each  gallon  of  vinegar  allow  £  of  a  Ib.  of  bruised 
ginger,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  mustard,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  salt,  2  ozs.  of  mustard-seed, 
i£  ozs.  of  turmeric,  i  oz.  of  ground  black  pepper,  £  of  an  oz.  of  cayenne, 
cauliflowers,  onions,  celery,  gherkins,  French  beans,  nasturtiums, 
capsicums. 

Method. — Have  a  large  jar,  with  a  tight-fitting  lid,  in  which  put  as 
much  vinegar  as  required,  reserving  a  little  to  mix  the  various  powders 
to  a  smooth  paste.  Put  into  a  basin  the  mustard,  turmeric,  pepper  and 
cayenne;  mix  them  with  vinegar,  and  stir  well  until  no  lumps  remain; 
add  all  the  ingredients  to  the  vinegar,  and  mix  well.  Keep  this  liquor 
in  a  warm  place,  and  thoroughly  stir  it  every  morning  for  i  month 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  the  different  vegetables 
to  be  added  to  it.  As  these  come  in  season,  have  them  gathered  on  a 
dry  day,  and  after  merely  wiping  them  with  a  cloth,  to  free  them  from 
moisture,  put  them  into  the  pickle.  The  cauliflowers  must  be  divided 
into  small  bunches.  Put  all  these  into  the  pickle  raw,  and  at  the  end 
of  the  season,  when  as  many  of  the  vegetables  as  could  be  procured 
have  been  added,  store  the  pickle  away  in  jars,  and  tie  over  with 
bladder.  This  old-fashioned  method  of  preserving  vegetables  is  largely 
employed  by  those  who  live  in  the  country.  The  pickle  should  be 
kept  for  at  least  3  months  in  a  cool,  dry  place  before  being  used. 

2643.— MIXED  PICKLES. 

Ingredients. — An  equal  weight  of  small  mild  onions,  sour  apples  and 
cucumbers,  vinegar  to  cover.  To  each  pint  of  vinegar  add  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sherry,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper, 
a  good  pinch  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Peel  and  slice  the  onions,  apples  and  cucumbers  thinly, 
put  them  into  wide-necked  bottles,  add  the  seasoning  and  sherry,  cover 
with  vinegar,  and  cork  closely.  This  pickle  may  be  used  the  following 
day,  and  should  not  be  kept  for  any  length  of  time. 

2644.— MIXED  PICKLES.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  onions,  i  Ib.  of  apples,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  chillies,  i£ 
pints  of  white-wine  vinegar,  i  good  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

Method.—  Chop  the  onions  and  apples  coarsely,  and  the  chillies  finely. 
Boil  the  vinegar,  add  the  salt,  and  win  n  dissolved  pour  over  the  pre- 
pare ,'  nts.  Turn  into  small  jars,  and,  when  cold,  cover  closely. 

Average  Cost. — is.  lod. 


U74  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2645.— MUSHROOMS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  button  mushrooms,  i  quart  of  vinegar,  I  oz. 
of  bruised  whole  ginger,  \  an  oz.  of  white  peppercorns,  3  blades  of  mace, 
salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Wash,  dry,  and  peel  the  mushrooms,  and  cut  off  the  tops 
of  the  stalks.  Place  them  in  a  stewpan,  sprinkle  salt  over  them,  shake 
them  over  the  fire  until  the  liquor  flows,  and  keep  them  on  the  stove 
uncovered  until  the  greater  part  of  the  moisture  has  evaporated.  Then 
add  the  vinegar,  peppercorns,  etc.,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  gently 
for  10  minutes.  Turn  into  jars,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool, 
dry  place. 

Average  Cost. — is.  lod.  to  2s.  6d. 

2646.— MUSHROOMS,  PICKLED.    (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  button  mushrooms,  i  quart  of  vinegar, 
i  oz.  of  whole  ginger,  %  an  oz.  of  white  peppercorns,  a  good  pinch  of 
cayenne. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  tips  of  the  stalks,  rub  off  the  outer  skin  with  a 
piece  of  new  flannel  occasionally  dipped  in  salt,  rinse  the  mushrooms 
in  salt  and  water,  and  dry  them  well.  Boil  the  vinegar,  pepper  and 
spices  together  until  pleasantly  seasoned  and  flavoured,  then  put  in 
the  mushrooms  and  simmer  them  gently  for  10  minutes.  Put  into 
jars;  when  cold  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Average  Cost. — is.  lod.  to  2s.  6d. 

2647.— NASTURTIUM  SEEDS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Nasturtium  seeds,  vinegar  to  cover  them.  To  each 
pint  of  vinegar  add  \  an  oz.  of  salt,  6  peppercorns. 

Methods — Boil  the  vinegar,  salt  and  peppercorns  together,  and,  when 
cold,  strain  it  into  a  wide-necked  bottle.  Gather  the  seeds  on  a  dry 
day,  put  them  into  the  vinegar,  and  cork  closely.  These  pickled  seeds 
form  an  excellent  substitute  for  capers.  They  are  ready  for  use  in 
about  3  months,  but  may  be  kept  for  a  much  longer  time. 

NASTURTIUMS. — The  elegant  nasturtium-plant,  called  by  botanists  Tropaeolum,  and  which  sometimes 
goes  by  the  name  of  Indian  cress — an  American  climbing  annual  with  bright  orange-coloured  flowers — 
came  originally  from  Peru,  but  was  easily  acclimatized  in  these  islands.  Its  young  leaves  and  flowers 
are  of  a  slightly  hot  nature,  and  many  consider  them  a  good  adjunct  to  salads,  to  which  they  certainly 
add  a  pretty  appearance.  When  the  beautiful  blossoms,  which  may  be  employed  with  great  effect 
in  garnishing  dishes,  are  off,  then  the  fruit  is  used  as  described  in  the  above  recipe. 

2648.— ONIONS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — i  gallon  of  pickling  onions,  salt  and  water,  milk.  To 
each  |  gallon  of  vinegar  add  i  oz.  of  bruised  ginger,  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  cayenne,  i  oz.  of  allspice,  i  oz.  of  whole  black  popper,  £  of  an  oz. 
of  whole  nutmeg  bruised,  and  cloves,  £  of  an  oz.  of  mace. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1175 

Method. —  Gather  the  onions,  which  should  not  be  too  small,  when 
they  are  quite  dry  and  ripe;  wipe  off  the  dirt,  but  do  not  pare  them. 
Make  a  strong  solution  of  salt  and  water,  into  which  put  the  onions, 
change  the  brine  morning  and  night,  for  3  days,  and  save  the  last  brine 
the  onions  are  put  in.     Then  take  off  the  outside  skin,  and  put  them 
into  a  tin  saucepan  capable  of  holding  them  all,  as  they  are  always 
better  if  pickled  together.     Now  take  equal  quantities  of  milk  and  the 
last  salt  and  water  the  onions  were  in,  and  pour  this  on  to  them.     To 
this  liquid  add  2  large  spoonfuls  of  salt,  put  the  onions  over  the  fire 
and  watch  them  very  attentively.      Keep  constantly  turning  the  onions 
about  with  a  wooden  skimmer,  those  at  the  bottom  to  the  top,  and  vice 
and  let  the  milk  and  water  run  through  the  holes  of  the  skimmer, 
•mbcr  the  onions  must  never  BOIL,  otherwise  they  will  l>c  vi- 
and they  should  be  quite  transparent.     Keep  the  onions  stirred  for  a 
few  minutes,  and,  in  stirring,  be  particular  not  to  break  them.     Then 
have  ready  a  pan  with  a  colander,  into  which  turn  the  onions  to  dr.iin, 
ith  a  cloth  to  keep  in  the  steam.     Place  on  a  table  an  old 
cloth  folded  2  or  3  times  ;  put  the  onions  on  it  when  quite  hot.  an«! 
them  closely  over  with  an  old  piece  of  blanket  to  keep  in  the 
Let  the    onions    remain  until  the  next   day,  wh->n    they  will 
be  quite  cold,  and  look  yellow  and  shriv  .<•  off  the  shrr 

when     they    should     be    as    white     as    snow.       Put      them 
in  a  pan,  make  a   pickle  of    vinegar  and    the  remaining  ingred 

11  up  together,  and   pour  the    hot    mixture    over    the    onions 
in  the  pan.     Cover  very  closely  to  keep  in  all  the  steam,  an<i 
stand  until  the  following  day,  when  they  will  l>e  quite  cold.     Put  them 
into  jars  or  bo  !i  a  tablespoonful  of  the  tv  -.11  on  the 

top  of  each  bottle  or  jar.     Tie  the  onions  down  with  bladder,  and  let 
them  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  a  month  or  6  weeks,  when  they  will    be 
fit  for  use.     They  should  be  beautifully  white  and  cat  crisp,  without 
the  least  softness,  and  will  keep  good  many  months. 
Average  Cost. — 2s.  6d.  to  33. 

2649.— ONIONS,  PICKLED.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients.-    Tickling  onion  h  quart  of  vinegar  add  2  tea- 

spoonfuls  of  al  ;  Kxmfuls  of  whole  black  pepper. 

Method.  te  onions  1  when  quite  dry  awl  ripe,  and, 

with  t  .  t.ike  oil'  the  thin  Kin,  th«-n  wit:  knife 

houM  not  be  used,  as  it  sp<  olour  of  the  onions  \  remove 

tie  onions  will  look  quite  clear.      H.tv,    ready 

l>ottles  01  ,1  as  fast  as  the  or.  .1  put 

1  \megartocover  th--m,  with  p 

share  of  the  la  1  put 

fortnight  they  \vi!' 


1176  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2650.—  ONIONS,  PICKLED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Silver  onions,  white  wine  vinegar  to  cover. 

Method. — Remove  the  skins,  throw  the  onions  a  few  at  a  time  into 
a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  taking  care  to  have  no  more  than  will  form 
a  single  layer  floating  on  the  surface  of  the  water.  As  soon  as  the 
onions  look  clear  on  the  outside  take  them  up  as  quickly  as  possible 
with  a  slice,  fold  them  in  a  clean  dry  cloth,  so  as  to  keep  in  the  steam, 
and  allow  them  to  remain  closely  covered  until  the  whole  have  been 
scalded.  Let  the  onions  be  until  quite  cold,  then  put  them  into  bottles 
or  jars,  and  pour  over  them  the  vinegar,  which  should  previously  have 
been  boiled  and  allowed  to  cool  slightly.  When  cold,  cover  closely, 
and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2651.— OYSTERS,  PICKLED. 

Blanch  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  but  in  other  details  follow 
directions  for  Cockles,  Pickled,  No.  2625. 

2652.— PICCALILLI. 

Ingredients. — Cauliflowers,  onions,  gherkins,  French  beans,  capsicums, 
spiced  vinegar  (see  recipe  for  Vinegar,  Spiced,  No.  2704),  mustard, 
turmeric,  curry  powder. 

Method. — Divide  the  vegetables  into  convenient  pieces,  throw  them 
into  boiling  brine  sufficiently  strong  to  float  an  egg,  and  cook  for  3 
minutes.  Drain  well,  spread  them  on  large  dishes,  and  let  them 
remain  in  the  sun  until  perfectly  dry.  Prepare  the  vinegar  as  directed 
and  add  £  an  oz.  each  of  turmeric  and  curry  powder  to  each  quart  of 
vinegar.  Also  allow  to  each  quart  of  vinegar  i  oz.  of  mustard,  which 
must  be  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  vinegar,  and  afterwards 
stirred  into  the  boiling  vinegar,  but  not  allowed  to  boil.  Place  the 
prepared  vegetables  in  jars,  cover  them  completely  with  vinegar,  and, 
when  quite  cold,  cover  closely. 

2653.— RADISH-PODS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Young  radish  pods,  spiced  vinegar  (see  recipe  foi 
Vinegar,  Spiced,  No.  2704),  grated  horseradish. 

Method. — Cover  the  pods  with  strong  brine,  let  them  remain  for  12 
hours,  then  drain  the  brine  into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  up.  Pour  the 
boiling  brine  over  the  pods,  cover  closely  with  a  close-fitting  lid  or 
plate,  let  them  remain  undisturbed  for  48  hours,  then  repeat  the  boiling 
process.  Repeat  again  and  again  until  the  pods  are  perfectly  green, 
then  drain  until  they  are  quite  dry,  and  pack  them  loosely  in  jars. 
Add  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  horseradish  to  the  prepared  vinegar, 
pour  it  boiling  over  the  pods,  and  cover  closely.  On  the  following  day 
strain,  boil  and  replace  the  vinegar,  and,  when  quite  cold,  tie  down 
securely  and  store  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1177 

2654.— SPANISH  ONIONS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Medium  sized  onions,  vinegar,  salt,  cayenne. 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  slice  them  thinly,  place  them  in  a  large 
jar,  and  sprinkle  each  layer  liberally  with  salt,  and  lightly  with  cayenne 
pepper.  Cover  the  whole  with  vinegar,  exclude  the  air  by  means  of  a 
bladder,  or  paper  brushed  over  on  both  sides  with  white  of  egg,  and 
store  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  The  pickle  will  be  ready  lor  use  in  10  or 
14  days. 

2655.— TOMATOES,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Small  firm  tomatoes,  spiced  vinegar  (see  recipe  for 
Vinegar,  Spiced,  No.  2704),  moist  sugar. 

Method. — Prepare  the  vinegar  as  directed,  and  to  each  quart  add  I 
dessertspoonful  of  sugar.  Pack  the  tomatoes  loosely  in  a  large  jar,  cover 
them  with  boiling  vinegar,  and  put  on  a  close-fitting  lid  or  plate  to 
keep  in  the  steam.  Tie  down  to  completely  exclude  the  air.  This 
pickle  will  only  keep  for  a  short  time. 

2656.— TOMATOES   AND    ONIONS,    PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — An  equal  weight  of  firm  tomatoes  and  medium-sized 
Spanish  onions,  vinegar  to  cover.  To  each  pint  of  vinegar  allow  i 
teaspoonful  of  peppercorns,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt. 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  place  them,  with  the  tomatoes,  compactly 
in  a  stewpan,  add  the  salt,  allspice  and  peppercorns,  tied  together  in 
muslin,  cover  with  vinegar,  and  simmer  very  gently  for  5  or  6  hours. 
Turn  into  wide-necked  bottles  or  jars,  when  cold  cover  closely,  and 
store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2657.— VEGETABLE    MARROWS,   PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Vegetable  marrows,  vinegar  to  cover.  To  each  quart 
of  vinegar  add  4  ozs.  of  sugar,  i£  ozs.  of  ginger  broken  into  small  pieces, 
i£  ozs.  of  dry  mustard,  £  an  oz.  of  turmeric,  6  chillies,  i  clove  of  garlic 
linely  chopped. 

Method. — Boil  the  vinegar  with  the  seasoning  and  flavouring  in- 
gredients until  some  of  their  strength  and  flavour  is  extracted.  Mean- 
while pare  the  marrows,  cut  them  into  2-inch  pieces,  and  remove 
the  seeds.  Add  them  to  the  boiling  vinegar,  cook  gently  for  about 
10  mii  <1  turn  into  a  large  basin  or  earthenware  pan.  When 

quite  cold  lift  the  pieces  of  marrow  carefully  into  wide-necked  bottles 
or  unglazcd  jars,  pour  in  the  vinegar,  and  cover  closely.  The  pickle 
will  be  ready  in  2  or  3  weeks,  and  should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  atmo- 
re. 


1178  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2658.— WALNUTS,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — Green  walnuts,  vinegar  to  cover  them.  To  each  quart 
of  vinegar  allow  i  oz.  of  peppercorns,  i  oz.  of  allspice,  I  teaspoonful  of 
salt. 

Method. — Prick  the  walnuts  well  with  a  steel  fork  or  large  darning 
needle,  put  them  into  an  earthenware  bowl  or  pan,  and  cover  them  with 
strong  cold  brine,  previously  made  by  boiling  the  necessary  quantity 
of  water  with  the  addition  of  4  ozs.  of  salt  to  each  quart  of  water. 
Stir  the  walnuts  2  or  3  times  daily  for  6  days,  then  drain  them  and  cover 
with  fresh  brine.  Let  them  remain  3  days,  then  again  drain  them, 
spread  them  on  large  dishes,  and  place  them  in  the  sun  until  quite  black. 
Have  ready  some  wide-necked  bottles  or  unglazed  jars,  and  three- 
quarters  fill  these  with  walnuts.  Boil  sufficient  vinegar  to  cover  them, 
with  peppercorns,  allspice  and  salt  as  stated  above,  for  1 5  minutes,  and 
when  quite  cold  pour  the  mixture  over  the  walnuts.  If  closely  covered, 
and  stored  in  a  dry,  cool  place,  they  may  be  kept  for  months. 

2659.— WALNUTS,  PICKLED.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Green  walnuts,  vinegar.  To  3  pints  of  vinegar  allow 
i  oz.  of  salt  and  \  an  oz.  each  of  allspice,  peppercorns,  cloves  and  whole 
ginger. 

Method. — Wipe  the  walnuts  with  a  dry  cloth,  put  them  into  wide- 
necked  bottles,  or  unglazed  jars,  and  cover  them  with  cold  vinegar. 
Cover  closely,  let  them  stand  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  4  months,  then 
drain  off  the  vinegar.  Boil  as  much  fresh  vinegar  as  will  cover  them, 
with  the  seasonings  as  stated  above,  and  pour  it,  while  boiling  hot, 
over  the  walnuts.  Cover  closely,  and  store  for  3  weeks  in  a  cool,  dry 
place,  the  walnuts  will  then  be  ready  for  use. 


Store  Sauces,  etc. 

2660.— ANCHOVIES,  ESSENCE  OF. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  anchovies,  i  pint  of  cold  water,  \  of  a  pint  of 
good  vinegar,  i  saltspoonful  of  ground  mace,  i  saltspoonful  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Pound  the  anchovies  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  and  pass 
them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  parts  that  will  not  pass  through  the 
sieve  into  a  stewpan,  add  any  liquor  there  may  be  in  the  bottles  from 
which  the  anchovies  were  taken,  the  mace,  cayenne,  and  water,  simmer 
gently  for  £  an  hour,  then  strain,  and  mix  it  with  the  anchovy  puree. 
Return  the  mixture  to  the  stewpan,  bring  to  boiling  point,  add  the 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1179 

vinegar,  simmer  very  gently  for  10  minutes  longer,  and  when  quite 
cold  pour  into  small  bottles.  Cork  securely,  cover  the  corks  with 
melted  wax,  and  store  for  use  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2661.— ANCHOVY  KETCHUP. 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  good  ale,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  anchovies,  3  finely- 
chopped  shallots,  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  %  a  teaspoonful 
of  castor  sugar,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
ground  mace,  2  cloves. 

Method. — Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  stewpan,  simmer  very  gently 
for  about  i  hour,  and  strain.  When  quite  cold,  pour  the  ketchup  into 
small  bottles,  cork  them  tightly,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2662.— CARRACK  SAUCE.     (For  Cold  Meat.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  vinegar,  5  dessertspoonfuls  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  5  dessertspoonfuls  of  soy,  8  dessertspoonfuls  of  coarsely 
chopped  pickled  walnuts,  3  dessertspoonfuls  of  coarsely  chopped 
mango  pickle,  £  an  oz.  of  garlic  bruised,  15  anchovies  finely  chopped. 

Method.— Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  in  a  bottle,  let  it  remain 
in  a  warm  place,  and  shake  it  daily  for  a  month,  when  it  will  be  ready 
for  use. 

2663.— CAMP  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — i  head  of  garlic,  £  an  oz.  of  cayenne,  2  teaspoonfuls  of 
teaspoonfuls  of  walnut  ketchup,  i  pint  of  vinegar,  cochineal  to 
colour. 

Method. — Slice  the  garlic,  and  put  it,  with  all  the  above  ingredients, 
into  a  clean  bottle.  Let  it  stand  to  infuse  for  i  month,  then  strain 
it  oil  quite  clear,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  Keep  it  in  small  bottles, 
well  sealed  to  exclude  the  air. 

2664.— CELERY  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  finely  shredded  celery,  or  £  an  oz.  of  celery 
seed,  i  pint  of  good  pickling  vinegar,  i  level  teaspoonful  of 

Method. — Boil  the  vinegar,  dissolve  the  salt  in  it,  and  pour  the  mixture 
over  the  celery  or  celery  seed.  When  cold,  cover  and  let  it  remain 
undisturbed  for  3  weeks,  then  strain  into  small  bottles,  cork  securely, 
and  store  for  use.  Average  Cost,  ;d. 

2665.— CRESS  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — £  an  oz.  of  cress  seed,  i  quart  of  vinegar. 
Method. — Bruise  the  seed  in  a  mortar,  and  put  it  into  the  vinegar, 
previously  boiled  and  allowed  to  grow  cold.     Let  it  infuse  for  a  fort- 
then  strain  and  bottle  for  use. 


n8o  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2666.— CHEROKEE. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  best  malt  vinegar,  8  tablespoonfuls  of  walnut 
ketchup,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  soy,  i  oz.  of  cayenne,  3  cloves  of  garlic 
finely-minced. 

Method. — Put  these  ingredients  into  a  large  bottle,  cork  tightly, 
and  let  them  remain  undisturbed  for  i  month.  At  the  end  of  this 
time,  strain  the  liquid  into  small  bottles,  keep  them  well  corked,  and 
store  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

2667.— CHILLI  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — 50  fresh  chillies,  i  pint  of  good  pickling  vinegar. 

Method. — Cut  the  chillies  in  halves.  Boil  the  vinegar,  let  it  become 
quite  cold,  then  pour  it  over  the  chilies.  Cork  closely,  and  store  for 
use.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  per  quart. 

2668.— CUCUMBER  KETCHUP. 

Ingredients. — Cucumbers,  salt,  peppercorns. 

Method. — Pare  the  cucumbers,  slice  them  as  thinly  as  possible  into 
a  basin,  and  sprinkle  them  liberally  with  salt.  Let  them  remain 
closely  covered  until  the  following  day,  then  strain  the  liquor  from  the 
cucumbers  into  a  stewpan,  add  i  teaspoonful  of  peppercorns  to  each 
pint,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  ^  an  hour.  When  cold,  strain  into 
bottles,  cork  tightly,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  This  ketchup 
imparts  an  agreeable  flavour  to  sweetbreads,  calf's  brains,  chicken 
mixtures,  and  other  delicate  preparations. 

2669.— CUCUMBER  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — Cucumbers,  vinegar  to  cover  them.  To  each  pint  of 
vinegar  allow  2  shallots,  i  clove  of  garlic,  i  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper- 
corns, i  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Boil  the  vinegar,  salt  and  peppercorns  together,  for  20 
minutes,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  become  quite  cold.  Slice  the 
cucumbers  without  paring  them,  into  a  wide-necked  bottle  or  jar, 
add  the  shallots  and  garlic,  and  the  vinegar  when  cold.  Let  the 
preparation  remain  closely  covered  for  14  days,  then  strain  off  into 
smaller  bottles,  cork  tightly,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2670.— ESCAVEEKE  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  French  white- wine  vinegar,  the  finely-grated 
rinds  of  2  lemons,  12  shallots,  4  cloves  of  garlic,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
coriander  seed,  i  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
i  level  teaspoonful  of  cayenne. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1181 

Method. — Pound  all  the  dry  ingredients  well  together,  and  put  them 
into  an  earthenware  vessel.  Boil  the  vinegar,  and  add  it,  boiling  hot, 
to  the  pounded  preparation.  When  quite  cold,  pour  into  small  bottles, 
cork  tightly,  and  store  for  use. 

2671.— GARLIC    VINEGAR.          (See  Shallot  Vinegar, 
No.   2691.) 

2672.— HARVEY  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — I  quart  of  good  vinegar,  3  anchovies,  i  tablespoonful  of 
soy,  i  tablespoonful  of  walnut  ketchup,  i  finely-chopped  shallot, 
i  finely-chopped  clove  of  garlic,  \  of  an  oz.  of  cayenne,  a  few  drops  of 
cochineal. 

Method. — Cut  each  anchovy  into  3  or  4  pieces,  place  them  in  a  wid.-- 
necked  bottle  or  unglazed  jar,  add  the  shallots,  garlic,  and  the  rest 
of  the  ingredients,  and  cover  closely.  Let  the  jar  stand  for  14  days, 
during  which  time  the  contents  must  be  either  shaken  or  stirred  at 
least  once  a  day.  At  the  end  of  this  time  strain  into  small  bottles, 
cork  them  securely,  and  store  the  sauce  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2673.— HERB  POWDER.       (See   To    Dry    Herbs    for 
Winter  Use,   No.   2695.') 

2674.  —HERB  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. —  i  stick  of  horseradish,  2  finely-chopped  shallots,  a  few 
sprigs  each  of  winter  savory,  basil,  marjoram,  thyme,  tarragon,  6 
cloves,  the  finely-pared  rind  and  juice  of  i  lemon,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
good  vinegar,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method.— Wash  and  scrape  the  horseradish,  and  remove  the  stalks 
of  the  herbs.  Put  all  the  ingredients  together  in  a  stewpan,  simmer 
gently  for  20  minutes,  then  strain,  and,  when  quite  cold,  pour  into  small 
bottles.  Cork  securely  and  store  for  use. 

2675.— HORSERADISH  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  grated  horseradish,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  shallots,  i  heaped  teaspoonful  of  salt,  ^  a  teaspoonful  of  cay- 
en-ne,  4  pints  of  good  malt  vinegar. 

Method. -Mix  the  horseradish,  shallots,  salt  and  cayenne  together, 

boil  the  vinegar  and  pour  it  over  them,  cover  closely,  and  allow  the 

vessel  to  stand  in  a  warm,  but  not  hot,  place  for  10  days.     Strain  the 

«.r  into  a  stewpan.  bring  to  boiling  point,  let  it  cool,  then  pour  into 

small  bottles,  cork  closely,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 


n82  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2676.— INDIAN  CURRY  POWDER. 

Ingredients. — |-  of  a  Ib.  of  coriander  seed,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  turmeric,  2  ozs. 
of  cinnamon  seed,  •£  an  oz.  of  cayenne,  i  oz.  of  mustard,  i  oz.  of  ground 
ginger,  £  an  oz.  of  allspice,  2  ozs.  of  fenugreek-seed. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  in  a  cool  oven,  where  they  should 
remain  for  i  night.  Then  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  rub  them  through 
a  sieve,  and  mix  thoroughly  together.  Keep  the  powder  in  a  bottle, 
from  which  the  air  should  be  completely  excluded. 

2677.— INDIAN  MUSTARD. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  mustard,  %  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  -£  an  oz.  of  salt, 
4  shallots  chopped,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  4  tablespoonfuls  of 
mushroom  ketchup,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  anchovy  sauce. 

Method. — Put  the  mustard,  flour  and  salt  into  a  basin,  and  mix  them 
into  a  smooth  paste  with  hot  water.  Boil  the  shallots  with  the  vinegar, 
ketchup  and  anchovy  sauce  for  10  minutes,  then  add  the  blended  flour, 
etc.,  and  stir  and  simmer  gently  for  2  or  3  minutes.  When  quite  cold 
pour  the  preparation  into  small  bottles,  cork  them  tightly,  and  store 
in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2678.— KETCHUP.  (See  Mushroom  Ketchup,  No.  2682, 
and  Walnut 'Ketchup,  No.   2705.) 

2679.— KETCHUP,  PONTAC. 

Ingredients. — Ripe  elderberries,  anchovies,  shallots,  vinegar,  cloves, 
mace,  peppercorns. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks,  place  the  berries  in  a  jar,  cover  them 
with  vinegar,  cook  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  3  hours,  then  strain 
and  measure  the  vinegar.  To  each  quart  add  £  a  Ib.  of  coarsely 
chopped  anchovies,  i  oz.  of  chopped  shallots,  6  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace, 
and  24  peppercorns.  Simmer  gently  for  i  hour,  then  strain  and  bottle 
for  use. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S.  per  quart,  exclusive  of  the 
elderberries. 

2680.— LEAMINGTON  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  walnut  juice  (see  No.  2705),  3  pints  of  good 
vinegar,  £  a  pint  of  soy,  i  oz.  of  finely-chopped  shallots,  £  an  oz.  of 
cayenne,  -\  an  oz.  of  garlic,  £  of  a  pint  of  port. 

Method. — Extract  the  juice  from  the  walnuts  as  described  in  Recipe 
No.  2705.  Pound  the  shallots,  garlic  and  cayenne  well  together,  add 
them  to  the  walnut-juice  with  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  mix  all 
well  together.  Pour  into  small  bottles,  cork  tightly,  and  store  for  use. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1183 

2681.— MINT  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — Vinegar,  mint. 

Method.— The  mint  for  this  purpose  must  be  young  and  fresh.  Pick 
the  leaves  from  the  stalks,  and  fill  a  bottle  or  jar  with  them.  Cover 
with  cold  vinegar,  cover  closely,  and  let  the  mint  infuse  for  14  days. 
Then  strain  the  liquor  into  small  bottles,  cork  securely,  and  store  for 
use. 

2682.— MUSHROOM  KETCHUP. 

Ingredients. — 7  Ibs.  of  flap  mushrooms,  £  a  Ib.  of  salt.     To  i  quart  of 
mushroom  liquor  add  \  an  oz.  of  allspice,  |  an  oz.  of  ground  gii 
£  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pounded  mace,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne. 

Method.— Mushrooms  intended  for  this  purpose  should  be  gathered 
on  a  dry  day.  otherwise  the  ketchup  will  not  keep.  Trim  the  tips  of 
the  stalks,  but  do  not  wash  nor  peel  the  mushrooms;  simply  rub  any 
part  not  quite  clean  \\ith  a  little  salt.  Place  them  in  a  large  jar, 
sprinkling  each  layer  liberally  with  salt.  Let  them  remain  for  3  days, 
stirring  them  at  least  3  times  daily.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  cook 
them  very  gently  either  on  the  stove  or  in  a  cool  oven,  until  the  juice 
flows  freely,  then  strain  the  mushrooms  through  a  clean  cloth,  and 
drain  well,  but  do  not  squeeze  them. 

Replace  the  liquor  in  the  jar,  add  allspice,  ginger,  cayenne  and  mace 
as  stated  above,  place  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook 
very  gently  for  3  hours.  Strain  2  or  3  times  through  fine  muslin  when 
quite  cold,  pour  into  small  bottles,  cork  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

How  TO  I>i  OMS  FROM  TOADSTOOLS. — The  cultivated  mushroom,  known  as 

campestris,  may  tx-  distinguished  from  the  poisonous  kinds  of  fungi  by  its  having  pink  or 
flesh-coloured  gilK  ->r  un<!'-r  >ul:  .  ,i:ni  t>v  its  having  invariably  an  agreeable  smell,  which  the  toadstool 
has  not.  \\ "h-  iirooms  an-  like  ,i  Mii.ill  r->und  button,  both  the  stalk  and  head  being  white. 

A^  thev  grow  larger  they  expand  their  heads  by  degrees  into  a  flat  form,  the  gill*  underneath  being 
first  of  a  pale  flesh  colour,  but  becoming,  as  they  stand  longer,  dark-brown  or  blarki>h.  NV.irlv 
all  the  poisonous  kinds  are  brown,  and  have  in  general  a  rank  and  putrid  smell.  Edible  mushrooms 
arc  found  in  closely  fed  pastures,  but  seldom  grow  in  woods,  where  most  of  the  poisonous  sorts 
flourish. 

2683.— MUSHROOM  POWDER. 

Ingredients. — £  a  peck  of  large  mushrooms,  2  onions,  12  cloves,  £  of  an 
oz.  of  pounded  mace,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  white  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  mushrooms,  wipe  them  perfectly  free  from  grit, 
remove  the  black  fur,  and  reject  all  those  that  are  at  all  worm-eaten. 
Put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  above  ingredients,  but  without 
water;  shake  them  over  a  clear  fire  until  all  the  liquor  is  dried  up,  but 
be  careful  not  to  let  them  burn.  Arrange  them  on  tins,  dry  them  in  a 
slow  oven,  pound  them  to  a  fine  powder,  which  put  into  small,  dry 
bottles,  and  cork  well.  Seal  the  corks,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry  place.  In 
using  this  powder,  add  it  to  the  gravy  just  before  serving,  when  it  will 
merely  require  to  be  boiled  up. 


n84  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2684.— MUSTAPHA,  OR  LIVER  KETCHUP. 

Ingredients. — i  beef  liver,  i  gallon  of  water,  i  oz.  of  ginger,  i  oz.  of 
allspice,  2  oz.  of  whole  black  pepper,  2  Ibs.  of  salt. 

Method. — Roll  the  salt,  rub  it  well  into  a  very  fresh  beef  liver,  and 
place  it  in  a  vessel  without  crushing.  Turn  and  rub  it  thoroughly  daily 
for  10  days.  Mince  it  into  small  dice,  and  boil  in  a  gallon  of  water, 
closely  covered  until  reduced  to  three  quarts.  Strain  through  a  sieve, 
put  it  aside  until  the  following  day,  then  add  the  pepper,  allspice,  and 
ginger,  and  boil  slowly  until  reduced  to  three  pints.  When  cold, 
bottle,  and  keep  well  corked. 

2685.— PIQUANT  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 100  green  walnuts,  5  or  6  Ibs.  of  flap  mushrooms,  vinegar. 
To  each  pint  of  vinegar  allow  |-  a  glass  of  port,  i  glass  of  claret,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  soy,  6  shallots,  i  clove  of  garlic,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  ground 
ginger,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard-seed,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  allspice, 
2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,  £  of  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Place  the  mushrooms  and  walnuts  in  separate  earthenware 
bowls  or  pans,  bruise  them  well  with  a  pestle  or  wooden  potato-masher, 
or,  failing  these,  a  heavy  wooden  spoon,  and  sprinkle  them  lightly  with 
salt.  Let  them  lie  for  a  week.  Turn  and  bruise  them  daily,  then  drain 
off  the  liquor,  and  squeeze  the  pulp  as  dry  as  possible.  As  a  rule  the 
quantity  of  juice  thus  obtained  from  the  walnuts  and  mushrooms  is 
nearly  equal.  Mix  the  two  together,  and  boil  gently  until  the  scum, 
which  must  be  carefully  removed,  ceases  to  rise.  Measure  the  liquid, 
return  it  to  the  pan  with  an  equal  quantity  of  vinegar,  and  shallots, 
garlic,  ginger,  mustard-seed,  allspice,  cloves,  mace,  and  cayenne  in  the 
above-stated  proportions.  Simmer  gently  for  about  \  an  hour,  skim- 
ming well  meanwhile,  then  turn  the  liquid  into  an  earthenware  vessel, 
and  add  the  port,  claret  and  soy.  When  quite  cold,  pour  the  sauce 
into  small  bottles,  cork  closely,  and  store  in  a  dry,  cool  place, 

2686.— RASPBERRY  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — Raspberries,  white  wine,  vinegar,  sugar. 

Method. — Cover  the  raspberries  with  vinegar,  let  them  remain  undis- 
turbed for  4  days,  then  strain  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  but  do  not  press 
the  fruit.  Pour  the  vinegar  over  a  fresh  lot  of  raspberries  and  proceed 
as  before.  Repeat  this  process  two  or  three  times,  taking  care  to 
drain  each  lot  thoroughly.  Measure  the  vinegar,  to  each  pint  add 
from  12  to  1 6  ozs.  of  sugar,  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  skimming 
well  meanwhile.  When  quite  cold,  bottle  for  use.  Or,  put  equal 
measures  of  raspberries  and  vinegar  into  a  large  jar,  stir  the  mixture 
2  or  3  times  daily  for  10  days,  then  strain  off  the  vinegar.  Measure 
it,  adding  12  ozs.  of  sugar  to  each  pint,  boil  up,  skim  well,  and,  when 
cold,  bottle  for  use.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  per  quart. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1185 

2687.— READING  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  walnut  pickle,  i  quart  of  cold  water,  £  a  pint 
of  soy,  i£  ozs.  of  shallots,  £  an  oz.  of  whole  ginger  bruised,  \  an  oz.  of 
capsicums,  i  oz.  of  mustard  seed,  \  an  oz.  of  cayenne,  ±  of  an  oz.  of 
bay-leaves,  i  tablespoonful  essence  of  anchovy. 

Method. — Peel  the  shallots,  chop  them  finely,  place  them  in  a  fire- 
proof jar  with  the  liquor  strained  from  the  walnuts,  and  simmer  gently 
until  considerably  reduced.  In  another  fireproof  jar  put  the  water, 
soy,  ginger,  capsicums,  mustard-seed,  cayenne,  and  essence  of  anchovy, 
bring  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  gently  for  i  hour.  Now  mix  the  con- 
tents of  the  two  jars  together,  and  continue  the  slow  cooking  for  \  an 
hour  longer.  Let  the  jar  remain  closely  covered  in  a  cool  place  until 
the  following  day,  then  add  the  bay-leaves,  replace  the  cover,  and  allow 
the  jar  to  remain  undisturbed  for  7  days.  At  the  end  of  this  time, 
strain  off  the  liquor  into  small  bottles,  and  store  for  use. 

2688.— SHALLOT  OR  GARLIC  PICKLE. 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  the  best  white  wine  vinegar,  \  a  Ib.  of  shallots 
or  garlic,  2  ozs.  of  whole  ginger,  2  ozs.  of  chillies,  4  ozs.  of  must  aril 
2  ozs.  of  turmeric. 

Method. — Cover  the  ginger  with  strong  brine  made  by  boiling  together 
i  pint  of  water  and  6  ozs.  of  salt,  let  it  remain  for  5  days,  then  slice  it 
thinly,  and  dry  it  in  the  sun.  Peel  the  shallots  or  garlic,  sprinkle 
liberally  with  salt,  and  let  them  remain  thus  for  3  days.  Place  the 
ginger,  shallots,  chillies,  mustard  seed  and  turmeric  in  a  wide-necked 
bottle,  pour  in  the  vinegar,  cover  closely,  and  store  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 

2689.— SHALLOT  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  sherry,  4  ozs.  of  shallots. 

Method. — Skin  the  shallots,  chop  the^m  finely,  and  put  them  into  a 
wide-necked  bottle.  Pour  over  them  the  sherry,  let  them  remain 
closely  corked  for  14  days,  then  strain  off  the  liquor  into  small  bottles. 
Cork  lightly,  and  store  for  use. 

2690.— SHALLOT  SAUCE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  sherry,  6  ozs.  of  shallots,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
cayenne. 

Method. — Skin  4  ozs.  of  shallots,  chop  them  finely,  put  them  into  a 
bottle,  and  add  the  wine.  Keep  the  bottle  well  corked  for  10  days, 
then  strain  the  liquid,  replace  it  in  the  bottle,  add  the  remaining  2  ozs. 
of  shallots,  peeled,  but  whole,  and  the  cayenne.  Cork  securely,  store 
in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  6  \\eeks,  then  strain  the  liquid  into  small  bottles, 
and  store  for  future  D 

QQ 


n86  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

2691.— SHALLOT  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  good  vinegar,  4  ozs.  of  shallots. 

Method. — Remove  the  skins,  chop  the  shallots  finely,  and  put  them 
into  a  wide-necked  bottle.  Pour  in  the  vinegar,  cork  securely,  and  put 
the  bottle  aside  for  10  days,  during  which  time  it  must  be  shaken  at 
least  once  a  day.  At  the  end  of  this  time  strain  the  vinegar  through 
fine  muslin,  put  it  into  small  bottles,  cork  closely,  and  store  for  use. 

2692.— SOY,  INDIAN. 

This  sauce  is  usually  bought  ready  prepared.  It  is  imported  from 
China  and  Japan,  where  it  is  made  from  a  small  bean,  the  produce 
of  Dolichos  Soja.  Japanese  soy  is  usually  preferred  to  that  of  China, 
because  it  is  free  from  the  sweet  treacly  flavour  which  distinguishes 
the  latter.  When  well  made  it  has  a  good  brown  colour,  thick  con- 
sistence, and  is  clear. 

2693.— SOY,  JAPANESE. 

Ingredients.- — An  equal  weight  of  beans,  coarse  barley  meal,  and  salt. 

Method. — Wash  the  beans  well,  boil  them  in  water  until  tender, 
and  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  adding  the  barley  meal  gradually.  Put 
the  mass  into  an  earthenware  bowl,  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  let  it  stand 
in  a  warm  place  for  several  days,  until  it  is  sufficiently  fermented, 
but  not  mouldy.  To  each  Ib.  of  salt  add  4  pints  of  water,  stir  until 
the  salt  is  dissolved,  then  stir  it  into  the  fermented  mass.  Keep  the 
bowl  or  pan  closely  covered  for  3  months,  during  which  time  it  must 
be  daily  stirred  for  at  least  i  hour.  At  the  end  of  this  time  strain 
through  fine  cloths,  pressing  the  insoluble  portion  well,  in  order  to 
extract  as  much  of  the  moisture  as  possible.  Let  it  stand  again  until 
quite  clear,  then  drain  off,  and  bottle  for  use. 

In  making  Chinese  soy,  the  liquid  extracted  is  boiled  and  re-boiled 
with  a  varying  amount  of  sugar,  mace,  ginger  and  pepper,  until  it 
acquires  the  desired  consistency. 

2694.— TARRAGON  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — Tarragon,  vinegar. 

Method. — Tarragon  leaves  intended  for  this  purpose  should  be  gath- 
ered on  a  dry  day  about  the  end  of  July,  just  before  the  plant  begins  to 
bloom.  Remove  the  stalks,  bruise  the  leaves  slightly,  put  them  into 
a  wide-necked  bottle,  and  cover  them  with  vinegar.  Cover  closely 
so  as  to  completely  exclude  the  air,  and  let  the  bottle  stand  in  a  cool, 
dry  place  for  7  or  8  weeks.  Now  strain  the  liquid  through  fine  muslin 
until  it  is  quite  clear,  put  it  into  small  bottles,  cork  tightly,  and  store 
them  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1187 

269S._TO  DRY  HERBS  FOR  WINTER  USE. 

Gather  the  herbs  on  a  dry  day,  just  before  they  begin  to  flower. 
Dry  them  quickly  before  or  near  the  fire,  then  strip  the  leaves  from  the 
stalks,  put  them  in  a  moderately-hot  oven  on  baking-tins  until  crisp, 
then  rub  them  between  the  palms  of  the  hands  until  reduced  to  a 
powder.  Pass  through  a  fine  sieve  to  remove  the  small  stalks,  put 
into  hot,  perfectly  dry  bottles,  cork  tightly,  and  store  for  use.  Herbs 
are  sometimes  dried  and  put  into  paper  bags,  but  this  method  is  not  to 
be  recommended,  for  they  not  only  lose  much  of  their  flavour,  but 
they  are  less  easily  powdered  than  when  freshly  dried. 

2696.— TO  DRY  MUSHROOMS. 

Method.—  Wipe  them  with  a  dry  cloth,  take  away  the  brown  part, 
and  peel  off  the  skin.  Lay  them  in  a  cool  oven  on  sheets  of  paper  to 
dry,  when  they  will  shrivel  considerably.  Keep  them  in  paper 
which  hang  in  a  dry  place.  When  wanted  for  use,  put  them  into  cold 
gravy,  bring  them  gradually  to  simmer,  and  it  will  be  found  that  they 
will  regain  nearly  their  natural  size. 

THE  MUSHROOM.— The  cultivated  or  garden  mushroom  is  a  species  of  fungus  whi. ! 
is  considered  the  best,  and  is  there  usually  eaten.     The  tribe,  however,  is  numerous,  and  a  large  pro- 
portion are  poisonous  ;  hence  it  is  always  dangerous  to  make  use  of  mushrooms  gathered  in  their 
natural  state.      In  some  parts  of  Europe,  as  in  Germany,  Russia  and  Poland,  many  species  grow  wild, 
and  are  used  as  food  ;  but  in  Britain,  two  species  only  are  generally  eaten.     These  are  mostly  employed 
for  the  flavouring  of  dishes,  and  are  also  dried  and  pirkled.     Catsup,  or  ketchup,  is  made  trot 
rooms  by  mixing  spices  and  salt  with  their  juice      The  young,  called  buttons,  are  the  best  for  pickling 
when  in  the  globular  form. 

2697.— TO  PRESERVE  PARSLEY. 

Method. — Use  freshly-gathered  parsley  for  keeping,  wash  i; 
fectly  free  from  grit  and  dirt,  put  it  into  boiling  water  which  has 
been  slightly  salted  and  well  skimmed,  and  then  let  it  boil  for  2  or  3 
minutes.  Take  it  out,  let  it  drain,  and  lay  it  on  a  sieve  in  front  of  the 
fire,  when  it  should  be  dried  as  expe<iitiously  as  possible.  Store  it 
away  in  a  very  dry  place  in  bottles,  and  when  wanted  for  use,  pou.. 
over  it  a  little  warm  \v,it«  r.  and  let  it  stand  for  about  5  minutes. 

2698.— TO  PRESERVE  WALNUTS. 

Ingredients.— To  every  pint  of  water  allow  i  teaspoonful  of  UUt 
Walnut*. 

Method. — Place  the  walnuts  in  the  salt  and  water  for  at  least  24  hours, 
then  take  them  out  and  rub  them  dry.  Old  nuts  may  be  freshened 
in  this  manner;  or  walnuts,  when  fi:  be  put  into  an 

earthen  pan  with  salt  sprinkled  amongst  them,  and  with  damped  hay 
1  on  the  top  and  then  covered  down  with  a  lid.     The  walnuts 
must  be  well  wiped  before  they  are  put  on  the  table. 


n88  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2699.— TOMATO  CHOW  CHOW. 

Ingredients. — 6  large  tomatoes,  i  Spanish  onion,  i  green  capsicum, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  salt,  £  a  pint  of 
vinegar. 

Method. —  Peel  and  chop  the  onion  coarsely.  Blanch  the  tomatoes, 
remove  the  skins,  and  slice  them  finely.  Place  the  onion  and  tomatoes 
in  a  stewjar,  add  the  capsicum  finely-chopped,  the  sugar,  salt  and 
vinegar,  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven  until  the  onion  is  quite  tender.  When 
cold  turn  into  small  jars  or  wide-necked  bottles,  cover  closely,  and  store 
in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

2700.— TOMATO  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  quart  of  tomato  pulp  allow  i  pint  of  chilli 
vinegar,  £  of  a  pint  of  soy,  i  tablespoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  2  finely- 
chopped  shallots,  i  finely-chopped  clove  of  garlic,  salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Bake  the  tomatoes  in  a  slow  oven  until  tender,  rub  them 
through  a  fine  sieve,  and  measure  the  pulp.  Put  it  into  a  stewpan, 
add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  simmer  until  the  shallots  and  garlic 
are  quite  tender,  and  pass  the  whole  through  a  tammy  or  fine  hair 
sieve.  Store  in  air-tight  bottles. 

2701.— TOMATO  SAUCE.       (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 12  large  tomatoes,  2  Spanish  onions,  i  oz.  of  salt,  £  a 
teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  i  pint  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  slice  them  thinly,  place  them  in  a  stew- 
jar  with  the  tomatoes,  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven  until  tender.  Pass  the 
pulp  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the  vinegar, 
salt  and  cayenne,  and  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes.  Store  for  use 
in  small  air-tight  bottles. 

2702.— TOMATO  SAUCE.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 12  large  tomatoes,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  malt  vinegar, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  salt,  i  dessertspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  i  salt- 
spoonful  of  cayenne,  i  finely-chopped  clove  of  garlic. 

Method. — Put  the  tomatoes  into  a  stewjar,  add  the  salt  and  garlic, 
cook  until  tender,  and  rub  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Add  the  rest  of 
the  ingredients;  when  well  mixed,  turn  into  small  bottles,  cork  tightly, 
and  store  them  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

27o3._ TOMATO  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — 18  sound  tomatoes,  3  or  4  ozs.  of  salt,  i  quart  of  good 
vinegar,  £  of  a  pint  of  mustard  seed,  mace,  cloves,  nutmeg. 


RECIPES  FOR  PRESERVES  1189 

Method. — Cut  each  tomato  across  into  quarters,  but  without  separating 
them  at  the  bottom.  Place  them  in  a  large  jar,  sprinkling  each  layer 
with  salt,  and  cook  them  in  a  very  slow  oven  for  12  hours.  Add  the 
mustard  seed  and  spices  to  taste,  boil  and  add  the  vinegar,  and  cover 
closely.  Let  the  jar  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  5  or  6  days,  and 
cither  stir  or  shake  it  several  times  daily.  When  ready  strain  into 
small  bottles,  cork  them  securely,  and  store  for  use.  Average  Cost, 
is.  8d.  per  quart. 

2704.— VINEGAR,  SPICED. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  good  vinegar,  i  oz.  of  black  peppercorns, 
£  an  oz.  of  whole  ginger,  £  an  oz.  of  salt,  £  of  an  oz.  of  allspice,  ±  an  oz. 
of  finely  chopped  shallots,  2  cloves  of  garlic  bruised,  2  bay-leaves. 

Method. — Pound  or  crush  the  peppercorns,  ginger  and  allspice,  put 
all  into  a  jar,  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  cover  closely.  Let 
the  jar  remain  in  a  warm  place  for  i  week,  then  place  it  in  a  saucepan 
containing  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  for  i  hour.  When  cold, 
cover  closely,  and  store  for  use. 

Time. — To  cook,  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod. 

2705.— WALNUT  KETCHUP. 

Ingredients. — 100  green  walnuts,  i  quart  of  good  vinegar,  3  ozs.  of 
salt,  4  ozs.  of  anchovies,  12  finely-chopped  shallots,  i  a  stick  of  findy- 
grated  horseradish,  £  a  teaspoonful  each  of  mace,  nutmeg,  ground 
ginger,  ground  cloves  and  pepper,  i  pint  of  port. 

Method. — The  walnuts  must  be  very  young  and  tender.  Bruise  them 
slightly,  put  them  into  a  jar  with  the  salt  and  vinegar,  and  let  them 
remain  for  8  days,  stirring  them  daily.  Drain  the  liquor  from  them 
into  a  stewpan,  add  to  it  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  simmer  very  gently 
for  40  minutes,  and  when  quite  cold,  strain  the  preparation  into  small 
bottles.  Cork  them  closely,  cover  with  melted  wax,  and  store  in  a 
cool,  dry  place. 

2706.— WORCESTER  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  best  brown  vinegar,  6  tablespoonfuls  of  walnut 
ketchup,  5  tablespoonfuls  of  essence  of  anchovy,  4  tablespoonfuls  of 
soy,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne,  4  very  finely-chopped  shallots,  salt 
to  taste. 

Method. — Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  large  bottle,  and  cork  it 
closely.  Shake  it  well  3  or  4  times  daily  for  about  14  days,  then  strain 
the  sauce  into  small  bottles,  cork  them  tightly,  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry 
place. 


SAVOURIES, 

HORS    D'OEUVRES,    AND 
BREAKFAST   DISHES 

CHAPTER    XXXVIII 

ALL  such  familiar  standard  dishes  as  fish,  kidneys,  cutlets,  bacon, 
rissoles,  etc.,  have  been  fully  dealt  with  under  their  respective  headings 
of  Fish,  Veal,  Beef,  Lamb,  Mutton  and  Pork. 

The  following  recipes  are  simply  a  compilation  of  useful  preparations 
specially  adapted  for  the  requirements  of  the  morning  meal, 
luncheon,  etc.,  grouped  together  irrespective  of  their  composition,  to 
suit  the  convenience  of  the  reader.  Economical  recipes  for  utilising 
cooked  meat  also  appear  in  Chapter  XXVIII  ;  for,  although  chiefly 
intended  to  show  how  tinned  meats  may  be  advantageously  used,  they 
are  equally  applicable  to  cooked  meat  oi  any  description  ;  and  it  is  hardly 
necessary  to  add,  that  the  preparations  would  gain  considerably 
in  nutritive  value  if  made  of  fresh  meat.  Those  who  prefer  fari- 
naceous dishes  to  more  solid  food  should  refer  to  Chapter  No.  XL. 


Savouries  and  Hors  d'Oeuvres 

2707.— ANCHOVY    AIGRETTES.  (Fr.— Aigrettes 

d'Anchois.) 

Ingredients. — 6  anchovies,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  white  sauce 
(see  Sauces),  i  teaspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  essence  of  an- 
chovy, cayenne,  frying-batter  (nee  p.  882),  frying-fat. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  anchovies,  remove  the  bones,  and  divide 
them  into  small  fillets.  Mix  with  them  the  white  sauce  and  cheese, 
and  add  anchovy  sauce  and  cayenne  to  taste.  Drop  small  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  the  mixture  into  the  batter,  taking  care  to  coat  them  com- 
pletely, then  fry  them  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned,  and 
drain  well.  Dish  in  a  pyramidal  form,  sprinkle  with  Parmesan  cheese 
and  Krona  pepper,  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

1190 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES          1191 

2708.— ANCHOVY    BISCUITS,     ROYAL.      (Fr.— Bis- 
cuits d' Anchois  a  la  Royale.) 

Ingredients. — For  the  paste:    3  ozs.  of  flour,  ii  ozs.  of  butter,  £  an 
a  tcaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne, 
a  few  drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal.     For  the  anchovy  cream:  4  an- 
chovies, i  hard-boiled  yolk  of  egg,  i  dessertspoonful  of  clarified  butter, 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  cayenne,  wa; 

Method.  Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  egg,  anchovy  essence, 
and  water  to  mix  to  a  stiff  paste.  Roll  out  thinly,  stamp  into  rounds 
1 1  inches  in  diameter,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  crisp,  and  use 
when  cool.  Wash,  bone  and  dry  the  anchovies,  pound  them  with  the 
yolk  of  egg  and  butter  until  smooth,  season  with  a  little  cayenne,  and 
rub  through  a  line  sieve.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  stir  the  fish  prepara- 
tion in  lightly,  and  by  means  of  a  forcing  bag  fill  the  centre  of  each 
biscuit  in  the  form  of  a  cone.  Decorate  tastefully  with  leaves  or  \ 
cress,  and  ser 

Time. —  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  about  is.     Sufficient   for  6  or   8  per- 
Seasonable  at   any  tinn-. 

2709.— ANCHOVY     D'ARTOIS.       (Fr.— D'Artois    aux 
Anchois. 

Ingredients,      i    t.ibk-spoontul    of   anchovy   paste,    i$    tablespoonfuls 
'ed  1'annesan  fhees.-.  i  t  ablespoonf  ul  of  cream  or  white  sauce, 
cayenne,  i  eg^  >/s.  of  puff  paste. 

Method.     Moisten  the  ifficient  cream  or  white 

sauce  to  enable  it  to  be  easily  spread.     Roll  the  paste  out  3  times, 

sprinkling  it  <  -ich  time  with  cheese  and  a  very  little  cayenne  pepper. 

Finally  roll  it  into  a   strip   6   inches  1  about  ^  of  an  inch  in 

thickness,  and  cut   it   in  half  lengthwise.     Spread  the  anchovy  pre- 

<>n  on  one  half,  and  cover  this  with  the  other,  then  cut  it  into 

strips  i  inch  wide,  and  trim  them  to  a  uniform  size.     Place  them  on  a 

in,  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  the  paste  has  risen  and 

set.  th«n  brush  over  with  egg,  sprinkle  with  cheese,  and  replace  in  the 

i  until  crisp  and  nil  ned.     Serve  hot. 

Time.— To  bake,  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  is.     Sufficient   for 
6  or  7  persons.     Seasonable  at   any   timr. 

2710.— ANCHOVY  AND  EGG  FINGERS.      (Fr.— Can- 
apes d' Anchois  aux  CEufs.^ 

Ingredients. — 8  or  j  hard-boiled  eggs,  i  tablespoonful 

of  finely-chopped  pickled  glv -rkin.  tried  croutons,  butter,  anchovy- 
•uence,  • 

Method.     W.i-h.  Ix-n-    and  di\    tlu-  anchovies;  rub  the  yolks  of  the 


H92  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

eggs  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  chop  the  whites  finely.  Cut  thin  slices 
of  stale  bread  into  fingers,  fry  them  in  clarified  butter  or  fat,  and  drain 
well.  Add  a  pinch  of  cayenne  and  a  few  drops  of  anchovy-essence 
to  a  little  butter,  mix  well,  spread  it  on  the  fingers,  and  lay  on  each  an 
anchovy.  Decorate  in  3  divisions,  covering  the  centre  lightly  with 
gherkin,  with  the  white  and  yolk  of  egg  on  opposite  sides.  Make 
thoroughly  hot  before  serving. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2711.— ANCHOVY     CROUTES,     INDIAN     STYLE. 

(Fr. — Croutes  d'Anchois   a  1'Indienne.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  10  anchovies,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  curry-paste, 
i  hard-boiled  egg,  toast,  butter,  lemon-juice,  Krona  pepper,  chopped 
parsley. 

Method. — Bone,  wash  and  dry  the  anchovies,  and  divide  them  into 
fillets.  Chop  the  white  of  the  egg  finely,  rub  the  yolk  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  incorporate  with  it  the  curry-paste,  and  as  much  liquid 
butter  as  necessary  to  mix  the  whole  to  a  moist  paste.  Let  the  toast 
be  thin  and  crisp,  cut  it  into  rounds  or  triangles,  butter  well,  spread  on 
the  mixture,  lay  on  each  a  filleted  anchovy,  and  season  with  Krona 
pepper.  Add  2  or  3  drops  of  lemon-juice,  decorate  with  white  of  egg, 
sprinkle  half  the  croutes  with  Krona  pepper,  and  the  remainder  with 
parsley.  Place  them  in  a  hot  oven  for  3  or  4  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. —  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  3 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2712.— ANCHOVY  ECLAIRS.          (Fr.— Eclairs    d'An- 
chois.) 

Ingredients. — 8  to  10  anchovies,  puff  paste  trimmings,  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  i  egg. 

Method. — The  eclairs  should  have  the  appearance  of  miniature  sausage 
rolls.  Wash,  bone  and  dry  the  anchovies.  Roll  the  paste  out  thin, 
cut  it  into  oblong  pieces,  slightly  longer  than  the  anchovies.  Enclose 
an  anchovy  in  each  piece,  seal  the  edge  folded  over  with  a  little  egg, 
sprinkle  with  cheese,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven  until  nicely  browned 
and  crisp.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  iod.,  exclusive  of  the  paste. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2713.— ANCHOVY  EGGS.     (Fr.— Anchois  aux  CEufs.) 

Ingredients. — 4  anchovies,  4  hard-boiled  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
white  sauce,  i  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  watercress,  cayenne. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES, 


2.  Grilled  Bloaters. 


79 


3.   Haddock  with  Poached  Eggs. 

QQ* 


EGGS. 


Fried  Egg  Fritters.         2.  Eggs  in  Aspic.          3.  Curried  Eggs  and  Rice. 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES         11.93 

Method. — Cut  the  eggs  across  in  halves,  remove  the  yolks  carefully. 
and  cut  off  the  extreme  end  of  each  half  to  enable  them  to  stand  firmly. 
Wash,  bone  and  dry  the  anchovies,  chop  them  coarsely,  and  pound  them 
with  the  yolks  of  eggs  till  smooth.  Add  the  anchovy  essence,  and  the 
white  sauce  gradually  until  a  moist  paste  is  formed;  then  season  to 
taste,  and  rub  through  a  hair  sieve.  Fill  the  white  of  egg  cases  with 
the  preparation,  garnish  with  watercress  seasoned  with  oil  and  vinegar, 
and  serve. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  8  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2714.— ANCHOVY  FINGERS.        (Fr.— Canapes  d'An- 
chois.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  10  anchovies,  4-  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  buttered  toast, 
Krona  pepper,  white  pepper. 

Method. — Bone  the  anchovies  and  wash  them  in  warm  water.  Cut 
the  toast  into  fingers,  sprinkle  them  with  shallot  and  parsley,  and  lay 
on  each  an  anchovy.  Add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  and  a  seasoning 
of  pepper,  sprinkle  on  a  little  Krona  pepper,  place  a  morsel  of  butter 
on  each,  make  hot  in  the  oven,  and  serve. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2715.— ANCHOVIES,  FRIED.      (Fr.— Anchois  en  Fri- 
tot.) 

Ingredients. — 8  to  10  anchovies  preserved  in  oil,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  parsley,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  cayenne,  Krona  pepper,  frying-fat,  frying-battcr  (see  p.  882). 

Method. — Wash,  bone  and  dry  the  anchovies,  sprinkle  over  them  the 
lemon-juice,  parsley  and  shallot,  cover  with  a  plate,  and  let  them  re- 
main in  the  marinade  for  about  i  hour.  Make  the  batter  as  directed, 
dip  in  the  anchovies,  fry  them  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned,  then 
drain  well.  Pile  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  with  Krona  pepper,  garnish 
with  crisply-fried  parsley,  and  servr. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2716.— ANCHOVY  RISSOLETTES.       (Fr.— Rissolettes 
<T  Anchois.) 

Ingredients. — 4  anchovies,   3  raw    yolks  of  eggs,   i   whole   raw  egg, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  bread-crumbs, 
frying-fat. 


H94  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Wash,  skin,  bone  and  dry  the  anchovies,  then  chop  then! 
and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Steam  or  bake  the  yolks  of  eggs 
in  a  buttered  cup  or  small  mould,  and  pass  them  through  a  sieve. 
Melt  the  butter,  mix  with  it  the  anchovies,  yolk  of  eggs  and  cheese,  adding 
cayenne  to  taste.  Roll  out  the  paste  as  thin  as  a  wafer,  cut  it  into 
f-inch  diameter  rounds,  place  on  each  half  i  teaspoonful  of  the  pre- 
paration, wet  the  edges,  and  fold  over  into  a  crescent  shape.  Brush 
over  with  egg,  coat  with  breadcrumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and 
nicely  browned,  then  drain  well.  Dish  in  a  pyramidal  form,  sprinkle 
with  Parmesan  cheese  and  Krona  pepper,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2717.— ANCHOVIES,  RUTLAND  STYLE.       (Fr.—  An- 
chois  a  la  Rutland.) 

Ingredients. — For  the  cheese  paste:  3  ozs.  of  flour,  i|  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  salt, 
cayenne.  For  the  preparation  :  4  anchovies,  i  hard-boiled  egg,  I 
tablespoonful  of  thick  white  sauce,  anchovy-essence,  carmine  or  cochi- 
neal, watercress. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  cheese,  yolk  of 
egg,  a  little  salt  and  cayenne,  and  water  to  mix  to  a  stiff  paste.  Roll 
out  thinly,  cut  into  if  inch  squares,  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
crisp,  and  use  when  cool.  Wash,  bone  and  dry  the  anchovies,  and 
divide  them  into  fine  f  inch  strips.  Mix  with  them  the  white  sauce 
and  the  finely-sieved  yolk  of  egg,  season  with  cayenne,  add  a  few  drops 
of  anchovy  essence  and  carmine,  drop  by  drop,  until  a  pale  pink  colour 
is  obtained.  Pile  the  preparation  on  the  biscuits,  garnish  with  fine 
strips  of  white  of  egg,  and  leaves  of  watercress  or  chervil. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

27 1 8.— ANCHOVY       TARTLETS.          (Fr.— Tartlettes 
d'Anchois.) 

Ingredients. — Anchovy  paste,  anchovy  cream  (see  Anchovy  Biscuits, 
No.  2708),  capers,  lobster  coral  or  Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Line  very  small  patty-pans  with  the  paste,  prick  it  all  over, 
cover  the  paste  with  buttered  paper,  and  fill  with  rice.  Bake  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven  until  crisp,  remove  the  paper  and  rice,  and  when 
cold  fill  with  the  anchovy  cream.  The  mixture  should  be  piled  high 
in  the  centre,  and  sprinkled  with  lobster  coral  or  Krona  pepper,  the 
base  of  each  being  garnished  with  capers. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES         1195 
2719.— ANCHOVY  TOAST.     (Fr.— Croutes  d'Anchois.) 

Ingredients. — 6  anchovies,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  yolk  of  egg,  i  finely- 
chopped  shallot,  |  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  toast, 
butter,  cayenne  pepper. 

Method.  -Wash  and  bone  the  anchovies,  and  chop  them  coarsely. 
Heat  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  fry  the  shallot  until  lightly  browned, 
then  add  the  anchovies,  parsley  and  yolk  of  egg,  and  season  with 
cayenne.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens,  then 
pour  it  on  the  toast,  previously  well-buttered,  and  serve  as  hot  as 
possible. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  md.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


2720.— "  ANGELS     ON     HORSEBACK."       (Fr.— Les 
Anges    a    Cheval.) 

Ingredients.  — 12  oysters,  12  small  thin  slices  of  bacon,  12  small  round 
croutes  of  fried  bread,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot,  $  a 
teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  lemon-juice,  Krona  pepper. 

Method.— Beard  the  oysters,  trim  the  bacon,  cutting  each  pieo 
large  enough  to  roll  round  an  oyster,  season  with  Krona  pepper,  sprinkle 
«>n  a  little  shallot  and  parsley.  Lay  an  oyster  on  each,  add  a  few  drops 
of  lemon-juice,  roll  up  tightly,  and  secure  the  bacon  in  position  with  a 
large  pin.  Fry  in  a  frying-pan  or  bake  in  a  hot  oven  just  long  enough 
to  crisp  the  bacon  (further  cooking  would  harden  the  oysters),  remove 
the  pin  and  serve  on  the  croutes. 

Time. — JQ  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  as.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  8  or  9  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  March. 


2721.— BLOATER  TOAST.     (Fr.— Croutes   a  la  Yar- 
mouth.) 

Ingredients. — 2  bloaters  with  soft  roes,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  egg,  salt, 
cayenne,  8  squares  of  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Remove  the  roes,  grill  the  herrings,  free  them  from  skin 
and  bone,  then  chop  them,  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Heat 
the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  add  the  fish,  and  when  hot  put  in  the 
egg,  season  to  taste,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture 
thickens.  Meanwhile  divide  the  roes  into  8  pieces,  and  fry  them  in 
the  remainder  of  the  butter.  Spread  the  fish  preparation  on  the 
•••s,  lay  the  roe  on  the  top,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time.— i  hour.     Average  Cost,  r>d.     Sufficient  for  0  or  7  persons, 
able  at  cinv  time. 


1196  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2722.— CAVIARE  AND  PRAWNS.     (Fr.— Caviar  aux 
Ecrevisses.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  ozs.  of  caviare,  32  small  prawns,  capers,  i  lemon, 
£  a  shallot  very  finely-chopped,  brown  bread,  butter,  cayenne. 

Method. — Prepare  thin  slices  of  brown  bread  and  butter,  cut  from 
them  8  or  9  rounds  about  i£  inches  in  diameter,  and  cover  them  with 
thin  slices  of  lemon  trimmed  to  the  size  of  the  croute.  Add  the  shallot 
and  a  few  drops  of  lemon- juice  to  the  caviare,  season  with  cayenne, 
and  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  or  skewer.  Pile  the  preparation  on  the 
croutes;  with  the  point  of  a  wooden  skewer  hollow  the  centre  down  to 
the  lemon,  and  fill  the  cavity  with  capers.  Arrange  4  pickled  prawns 
in  a  nearly  upright  equi-distant  position,  then  serve. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  33.  Sufficient  for  6  or 
7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2723.— CAVIARE  BOUCHEES.     (See  Caviare  Patties, 
No.  2726.) 

2724.— CAVIARE  CROUSTADES.  (Fr.— Croustades  au 
Caviar.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  pot  of  caviare,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
i  finely-chopped  shallot,  stale  bread,  clarified  butter,  anchovy  butter 
(see  p.  1114). 

Method. — From  slices  of  stale  bread  about  \  to  £  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness, cut  or  stamp  out  9  or  more  rounds,  ovals,  or  squares,  2  inches  in 
diameter,  and  with  a  smaller  cutter,  or  a  knife,  make  an  inner  circle, 
oval,  or  square,  \  of  an  inch  from  the  outer  edge  of  the  croustade. 
Fry  them  carefully  in  clarified  butter  until  lightly  browned,  then  with 
the  point  of  a  small  sharp  knife  lift  out  the  inner  ring,  remove  all  moist 
crumbs,  place  them  in  a  moderate  oven  to  become  crisp  and  dry,  and 
cool  before  using.  Add  the  shallot  and  lemon-juice  to  as  much  caviare 
as  will  be  required  to  fill  the  cases,  stir  well  with  a  wooden  skewer, 
and  put  the  preparation  into  the  cases.  Make  the  anchovy  butter  as 
directed,  put  it  into  a  forcing-bag  or  paper  cornet,  and  decorate  the 
border  of  each  croustade.  Serve  cold. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  33.  to  33.  6d.  Sufficient  lor  8  or 
9  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2725.— CAVIARE  PANCAKES.    (Fr.— Caviar  de  Russe 
aux  blenis.) 

Ingredients. — Pancake  batter  (see  No.  1930),  Russian  caviare. 

Method. — Make  the  pancakes  as  small  and  as  thin  as  possible.  Spread 
them  with  caviare,  roll  them  tightly,  and  cut  off  the  ends  in  a  sharply- 
slanting  direction.  Serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 


SAVOURIES    AND   BREAKFAST   DISHES         1197 

Time. — To  fry  each  pancake,  from  2  to  3  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
uncertain.  Sufficient,  allow  i  to  each  person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2726.— CAVIARE     PATTIES.         (Fr.— Bouchees    au 
Caviar.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  pot  of  caviare,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce, 
%  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice, 
fried  parsley,  puff  paste  No.  1665. 

Method. — Prepare  6  or  8  i|-inch  diameter  patty  cases  (see  No.  795) ; 
when  baked,  remove  and  preserve  the  lids,  scoop  out  the  soft 
inside,  and  keep  the  cases  hot  until  required.  Cook  the  shallot  slightly 
in  the  butter,  then  add  the  caviare,  tomato  sauce  and  a  few  drops  of 
lemon-juice.  Fill  the  cases  with  the  preparation,  put  on  the  lids, 
garnish  with  crisply-fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  3d.,  exclusive  of  the  paste.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2727.— CHEESE   AIGRETTES.         (Fr.— Aigrettes   au 
Parmesan.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  a 
of  butter,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  water,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  butter  and  water  into  a  small  stewpan;  when  boiling 
add  the  previously  dried  and  sieved  flour,  and  stir  vigorously  over 
fire  until  the  panada  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan  quite  clean.  Now  mix 
in,  off  the  fire,  the  cheese,  the  yolks  of  eggs,  beating  each  one  in  separ- 
ately, add  seasoning  to  taste,  and  lastly  stir  in  the  stiffly-whipped 
whites  of  eggs.  Turn  on  to  a  plate,  and  when  cold  drop  small  rough 
pieces  of  it  into  hot  fat,  but  they  must  not  fry  too  quickly  cr  the  surface 
will  become  too  brown  before  the  interior  is  sufficiently  cooked.  On 
the  other  hand,  if  the  fat  is  too  cold  it  soaks  into  the  paste,  and  the 
aigrettes  are  greasy.  As  the  success  of  this  dish  depends  chiefly  on  the 
frying,  the  greatest  possible  care  should  be  bestowed  upon  it.  After 
being  well  drained  the  aigrettes  arc  usually  arranged  in  a  pyramidal 
form  on  a  folded  napkin  or  dish-paper,  and  sprinkled  with  Parmesan 
cheese  or  Krona  pepper. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2728.— CHEESE  BALLS.    (Fr.— Ballons  au  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  grated  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
i  egg,  salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  frying- fat. 

Method. — Mix  the  cheese,  flour,  and  yolk  of  egg  together,  add  salt, 
pepper,  and  cayenne  to  taste,  then  whip  the  white  of  the  egg  to  a 
stiff  froth  and  stir  it  lightly  into  the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Have 


1198  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

ready  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  drop  in  the  mixture  in  teaspoonfuls  and 
fry  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well,  and  dish  in  a  pyramidal  form  on 
a  folded  serviette  or  dish  paper. 

Probable  Cost. — 3d.  or  4d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable 
at  any  time. 

2729.— CHEESE  BISCUITS.      (Fr.— Biscuits  au  From- 
age.) 

Ingredients. — 12  water  biscuits,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  Cheshire 
or  Cheddar  cheese,  butter,  white  pepper,  Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Spread  the  biscuits  with  butter,  sprinkle  them  liberally 
with  cheese,  season  well  with  white  pepper,  and,  if  convenient,  add  also 
a  little  Krona  pepper.  Place  the  biscuits  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the 
cheese  melts,  then  serve  them  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2730.— CHEESE     BISCUITS     WITH     CREAM. 

(Fr. — Biscuits    de    Fromage    a    la    Creme.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  Vienna  flour,  i  oz.  of  ordinary  flour,  4  ozs.  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  £  a  gill  of 
cream,  ^  a  lemon,  salt,  cayenne,  Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  3  ozs.  of  cheese,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne,  and  mix  into  a  VERY  stiff 
paste  with  the  yolk  of  eggs  and  lemon-juice,  adding  a  few  drops  of 
milk  if  necessary.  Roll  out  to  about  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  stamp 
out  some  rounds  if  inches  in  diameter,  prick  them  with  a  fork,  and 
bake  them  in  a  moderately  cool  oven  until  crisp,  then  let  them  get 
cool.  Whip  the  cream  stiffly,  stir  in  the  remainder  of  the  cheese,  add 
a  pinch  of  cayenne  ;  force  out,  by  means  of  a  forcing-bag  or  paper  cornet, 
a  little  pyramid  in  the  centre  of  each  biscuit.  Sprinkle  with  Krona 
pepper,  and  serve  cold  on  a  folded  napkin  or  dish  paper. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2731.— CHEESE  CREAM,   COLD.        (Fr.— Creme  au 
Fromage  Froid.) 

Ingredients. — f-  of  an  oz.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  £  of  an  oz.  of 
grated  Gruyere  or  Cheddar  cheese,  i  gill  of  cream,  £  a  gill  of  aspic 
jelly,  made  mustard,  cayenne,  Krona  pepper,  watercress. 

Method. — Season  the  cheese  with  a  mustardspoonful  of  mustard, 
a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne,  then  add  to  these 
ingredients  the  aspic  jelly,  previously  stiffly-whipped.  Whip  the 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES          1199 

cream  until  stiff,  stir  it  in  lightly,  turn  the  preparation  into  paper 
souffle  cases,  put  them  aside  in  a  cool  place  for  i  hour,  then  sprinkle 
with  Krona  pepper,  garnish  with  watercress,  and  serve.  Or,  the  mix- 
ture may  be  put  into  small  dariol  moulds,  previously  coated  with  aspic 
jelly,  and  decorated  with  chilli,  etc. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Sea- 
sonable at  any  time. 

2732.-CHEESE  CREAM  CROUTES.       (Fr.— Croutes 
de  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — Ingredients  for  cheese  mixture  as  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  croutes  of  fried  bread  ij  inches  in  diameter,  chopped  aspic 
jelly,  watercress,  Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Spread  the  cheese  cream  mixture  on  the  bottom  of  a  saute- 
pan  or  shallow  baking-tin,  and  when  set  cut  it  into  rounds  the  same 
size  as  the  croutes.  Sprinkle  each  round  with  a  little  Krona  pepper, 
and  serve  garnished  with  chopped  aspic  jelly  and  watercress  seasoned 
with  salad-oil  and  vin 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  jd.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2733.— CHEESE  CROUSTADES.          (Fr.— Croustades 
au  Fromage.) 

Ingredients.  -j  ozs.  ot  grated  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  i  oz.  of 
breadcrumbs,  i  tables poonful  of  liquid  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  milk, 
i  yolk  of  egg,  salt,  cayenne,  Krona  pepper,  croutes  of  bread. 

Method. — From  slices  of  stale  bread  £  an  inch  in  thickness  stamp  out 
8  or  9  croutes,  i£  inches  in  diameter.  Then  with  a  smaller  cutter  make 
an  inner  circle,  hollow  the  centre  of  each  croute  to  half  its  depth,  and 
fry  the  croutes  in  hot  fat.  Mix  together  in  a  basin  the  cheese,  bread- 
crumbs, butter  and  yolk  of  egg,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  pile 
the  preparation  on  the  croutes,  smoothing  it  into  a  pyramidal  form 
with  a  knife,  brown  in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time.— i  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2734.— CHEESE  D'ARTOIS.     (Fr.— D'Artois  au  Par- 
mesan.) 

Ingredients.— 3  ozs.  of  grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  yolks  of  eggs, 
i  white  of  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  3  or  4  ozs.  oi  puff  paste. 

Method.— Beat  the  yolk  and  white  of  i  egg  slightly,  add  the  cheese, 
butter  (melted),  and  season  rather  highly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Roll 
the  paste  out  thinly,  cut  it  in  half,  spread  the  preparation  over  one 
half,  and  cover  with  the  other.  I'lacc  it  carefully  on  a  buttered  baking- 


I2oo  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMEiNT 

tin,  score  it  in  inch-deep  strips,  brush  over  with  egg,  sprinkle  with 
grated  cheese,  and  bake  for  about  10  minutes  in  a  quick  oven.  When 
ready  cut  through  the  scores,  pile  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  Qd.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2735«—  CHEESE  FRITTERS.    (Fr—  Beignets  de  From- 
age.) 

Ingredients. — For  the  mixture:  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  macaroni, 
I  tablespoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  i  tablespoonful  of  thick 
cream  or  white  sauce,  salt,  cayenne  pepper ;  puff  paste  trimmings, 
cheese,  Krona  pepper,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs  or  vermicelli,  frying-fat. 

Method. — The  macaroni,  after  being  cooked  until  perfectly  tender, 
should  be  cut  across  into  tiny  rings,  and  in  this  condition  measure  2 
tablespoonfuls.  Mix  with  it  the  cheese,  cream  or  sauce,  and  season 
rather  highly  with  salt,  cayenne  and  pepper.  Roll  out  the  paste, 
sprinkle  it  with  Parmesan  cheese,  add  a  little  Krona  pepper,  fold  it 
over,  and  roll  it  out  again  as  thin  as  possible.  Now  stamp  it  out  into 
rounds  i|-  inches  in  diameter,  on  half  of  them  place  a  little  of  the  mix- 
ture, and  cover  with  the  other  rounds,  pressing  the  previously  wetted 
edges  well  together.  Dip  in  egg  and  then  in  breadcrumbs  or  broken 
up  vermicelli,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Dish  in  a  pyra- 
midal form,  sprinkle  with  cheese  and  Krona  pepper,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  9d.  to  is.,  exclusive  of  the 
paste.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2736.— CHEESE    FRITTERS.  (Another    Method.) 

(Fr. — Fritot  de  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  clarified  butter,  Krona 
pepper,  cayenne  pepper,  frying-batter  (see  p.  882),  frying-fat. 

Method. — Trim  8  or  9  £-inch  slices  of  cheese  into  pieces  2  inches 
long  and  i  inch  wide,  pour  over  them  a  little  clarified  butter,  sprinkle 
well  with  Krona  pepper,* and  let  them  remain  \  an  hour,  during  which 
time  they  must  be  turned  once  and  seasoned  as  before.  Prepare  the 
batter  as  directed,  season  with  cayenne  pepper,  dip  in  the  pieces  of 
cheese,  and  fry  them  in  deep  fat,  but  not  too  quickly,  as  the  cheese 
should  be  well  cooked.  Serve  quickly. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Sea- 
sonable at  any  time. 

2737.— CHEESE  MERINGUES.       (Fr.— Meringues  au 
Parmesan.) 

Ingredients. — 2  whites  of  eggs,  2  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  Krona 
pepper,  cayenne,  salt,  frying-fat. 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES          1201 

Method. — Whisk  the  whites  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  add  a  good  seasoning 
of  cayenne  and  a  little  salt  to  the  cheese,  then  stir  it  lightly  into  the 
whisked  whites.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  drop  in  the  pre- 
paration in  small  teaspoonfuls,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned.  Drain 
well ,  and  serve  sprinkled  with  Parmesan  cheese  and  Krona.  pepper. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  9d.,  exclusive  of  the 
fat.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2738.— CHEESE  OMELET.       (Fr.— Omelette  Gratinee 
au  Parmesan.) 

Ingredients. — 3  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese, 
i  tablespoonful  of  cream  or  milk,  i  oz.  of  clarified  butter,  pepper  and 

Scllt. 

Method.— Whisk  the  eggs  well,  then  add  the  cheese,  cream,  and  a 
little  salt  and  pepper.  Have  the  butter  ready,  heated  and  well  skimmed, 
in  an  omelette  pan,  pour  in  the  egg-mixture,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until 
the  eggs  begin  to  set.  Now  fold  one  half  over  the  other,  making  it 
crescent-shaped,  or  fold  the  sides  towards  the  middle  in  the  form  of 
a  cushion.  Allow  the  omelet  to  brown  slightly,  then  turn  it  on  to  a 
hot  dish,  and  serve  immediately. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  2  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2739.— CHEESE  PATTIES.     (Fr.— Bouchees  de  From- 
age.) 

Ingredients. — i  tablespoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  i£  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  i  tablespoonful  of 
cream,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  white  sauce,  i  white  of  egg,  puff 
paste  No.  1665,  Krona  pepper,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Prepare  8  patty-cases,  i4^  inches  in  diameter  (see  p.  795); 
when  baked,  remove  and  preserve  the  lids,  scoop  out  the  soft  inside, 
and  keep  the  cases  hot.  Stir  the  cream,  sauce  and  cheese  over  the 
fire  until  the  latter  melts,  then  add  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste,  and  fill 
the  cases  with  the  preparation.  Add  a  little  grated  cheese  to  the 
stiffly- whisked  white  of  egg,  arrange  it  roughly  in  the  centre  of  each 
patty,  sprinkle  on  a  little  Krona  pepper,  and  place  in  a  moderate  oven 
until  the  meringue  becomes  crisp  and  lightly  browned. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  x-d..  exclusive  of  the  paste.  Sufficient 
lor  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2740.— CHEESE  PATTIES.     (Fr.— Pates  au  Fromage.; 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  i  tablespoonful  of 
thick  cream  or  white  sauce,  i  egg.  Krona  pepper,  cayenne,  puff  paste 
trimmings 


1202  HOUSEH  OLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Line  7  or  8  small  patty-pans  with  paste,  cover  with  pieces  of 
buttered  paper,  fill  with  rice,  and  bake  for  10  minutes  in  a  brisk  oven. 
Mix  the  sauce,  yolk  of  the  egg  and  cheese  together,  season  highly  with 
Krona  pepper,  cayenne  and  salt,  and  add  the  white  of  egg,  previously 
whisked  to  a  stiff  froth.  Remove  the  rice  and  paper  from  the  patty- 
cases,  fill  them  with  the  preparation,  replace  in  the  oven,  and  bake  for 
about  15  minutes.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — i^  hours.  Average  Cost,  5d.,  exclusive  of  the  paste. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

. 

2741.— CHEESE  'PUDDING.      (Fr.-Pouding  au  Fro- 
mage.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of  breadcrumbs,  £  a  pint 
of  milk,  2  eggs,  made  mustard,  salt,  cayenne. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  slightly,  and  add  to  them  the  cheese,  mustard, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Boil  the  milk,  add  it  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredi- 
ents, pour  into  a  buttered  baking-dish  in  which  it  may  be  served, 
and  bake  for  about  20  minutes  in  a  brisk  oven.  If  preferred,  the 
mixture  may  be  baked  in  small  china  or  paper  souffle  cases,  in  which 
case  only  half  the  time  should  be  allowed. 

Time. — About  -|  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  '/d.  or  8d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2742.— CHEESE  RINGS. 

Ingredients. — Cheese  paste  (see  the  2  recipes  for  Cheese  Straws, 
Nos.  2745  and  2746). 

Method. — Make  the  paste  as  directed,  stamp  it  into  rounds  about  2 
inches  in  diameter,  and  with  a  much  smaller  cutter  remove  the  centre 
of  each  round.  Bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  7d.  to  pd.  Sufficient  for  6  or 
7  persons  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2743.— CHEESE  RAMAKINS.  (See  Cheese  Souffle,  No. 
2744,  and  Cheese  Cream,  Cold,  No.  2731.) 

2744.— CHEESE  SOUFFLE.       (Fr.— Souffle    au    Par- 
mesan.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz. 
of  flour,  3  whites  of  eggs,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  cayenne, 
salt,  clarified  butter. 

Method. — Coat  a  souffle-mould  well  with  clarified  butter,  and  tie 
round  it  a  well-buttered,  thickly-folded  piece  of  paper  to  support  the 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES          1203 

souffle  when  it  rises  above  the  level  of  the  tin.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  and  boil  well.  Now  mix  in, 
off  the  fire,  the  2  yolks  of  eggs,  beat  well,  then  stir  in  the  cheese  and  add 
seasoning  to  taste.  Whisk  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  them  lightly 
to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  pour  the  preparation  into  the  souffle- 
tin,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  from  25  to  30  minutes.  Serve  in  the  tin 
in  which  it  is  baked,  and  if  not  provided  with  an  outer  case,  pin  round  it 
a  napkin  (previously  warmed),  and  send  to  table  quickly. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2<\.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2745._CHEESE   STRAWS.         (Fr.—  Failles   au   Par- 
mesan.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  butter,  2^  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of 
cheese,  i  oz.  of  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  the  yolk  of  i  egg 
cayenne  pepper. 

Method. — Grate  the  cheese,  mix  it  with  the  flour,  rub  in  the  butter, 
and  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.  Now  form  into  a  stiff  paste 
with  the  yolk  of  egg  and  cold  water,  adding  the  latter  gradually  until 
the  desired  consistency  is  obtained.  Roll  out  thinly,  cut  into  strips 
about  4  inches  long  and  about  |  of  an  inch  wide,  and  from  the  trimming 
stamp  out  some  rings  about  i^  inches  in  diameter.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
«>ven  until  crisp,  fill  each  ring  with  straws,  and  arrange  them  neatly 
on  <i  dish,  covered  with  a  napkin  <>r  <h^h-paper. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Averagt  Cost,  c,d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2746.— CHEESE    STRAWS.       (Another    Method.) 

(Fr. — Failles  au  Parmesan.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  4  or  5  ozs.  of  puff  paste, 
cayenne. 

Method. — Roll  out  the  paste,  using  some  of  the  cheese  instead  of 
flour  for  sprinkling  the  board,  scatter  cheese  over  the  surface,  fold  in 
3, and  give  it  one  turn.  Repeat  until  the  cheese  is  used;  when  rolling 
out  for  the  last  time  sprinkle  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and,  if 
needed,  let  the  paste  stand  for  some  time  in  a  cold  place  after  each 
turn.  After  rolling  it  out  thinly,  cut  it  into  strips. about  4  inches  long 
and  a  £  of  an  inch  wide,  twisting  each  strip  before  placing  it  on  a  wetted 
baking-tin.  Re-roll  the  trimmings, stamp  out  some  rings  ij-  im 

mdbake  them  with  the  straws  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned. 
.ngc  in  bundles  by  means  of  the  rings,  and  serve  hot. 
Time.     Thn  r-<juarters  of  an  ln-m.     Average   Cost,   /d.     Sufficient   for 
7  persons.     Seasonable  at   any  mm-. 


1204  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2747.— CROUTES  OF  COD'S  ROE.       (Fr.— Croutes  de 
Laitance  de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients,-^  a  lb.  of  smoked  cod's  roe,  8  oval-shaped  croutes  of  fried 
bread,  i  oz.  of  butter,  ^  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  chives  or 
shallot,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Soak  the  roe  in  water  for  i  hour  to  soften  it,  then  drain 
and  dry  it  thoroughly.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-  or  frying-pan, 
cut  the  roe  into  8  slices,  and  fry  them  lightly  on  both  sides.  Sprinkle 
the  croutes  with  shallot,  parsley,  and  pepper,  lay  a  slice  of  roe  on  each, 
add  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible.  A  more 
elaborate  appearance  may  be  given  to  the  dish  by  decorating  the  roes 
with  strips  of  gherkin  and  hard-boiled  white  of  egg,  or  anchovy  butter. 

Time. — ij    hours.     Average  Cost,   is.  to   is.    4d.     Sufficient  for  6  or 

7  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — Fresh  roe  also  may  be  dressed  in  this  manner.  It  should  first  be 
well  washed,  then  covered  with  boiling  water,  seasoned  with  a  dessertspoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  %  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  boiled  gently  for  10  minutes,  and 
when  cold  cut  into  slices,  and  cooked  as  directed  above. 

2748.— CROUTES  OF  DEVILLED  LOBSTER. 

(Fr. — Croutes  d'Homard  a  la  Diable.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  lobster,  i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  white  wine  vinegar,  a  few  drops  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  i  mustardspoonful  of  made  mustard,  cayenne,  nutmeg, 
Krona  pepper,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream  or  Bechamel  sauce, 

8  croutes  of  fried  bread. 

Method. — Pound  the  flesh  of  the  lobster  with  the  breadcrumbs,  butter 
and  vinegar  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  then  rub  through  a  sieve.  Season 
highly  with  pepper  and  cayenne,  add  the  mustard  and  a  pinch  of  nut- 
meg, and,  if  needed,  moisten  with  more  vinegar.  Pile  the  preparation 
on  the  croutes,  cover  with  whipped  cream  or  Bechamel  sauce  seasoned 
with  cayenne  and  lemon-juice,  sprinkle  lightly  with  Krona  pepper, 
and  serve. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2749.— C ROUTES,      RUSSIAN.       (Fr.— Croutes    a   la 
Russe.) 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-shredded  cold  smoked  01 
spiced  beef,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  i  small  horseradish,  i  gill  of  cream 
(sour  if  possible),  salad-oil,  vinegar,  lemon-juice,  cayenne  pepper, 
2alt. 

Method. — The  strips  of  beef  should,  be  about  j  inch  long  and  a  £  of  an 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DTSHES          1205 

inch  wide;  when  cut,  sprinkle  over  them  i  teaspoonful  of  salad- 
oil,  vinegar  and  a  little  pepper,  and  let  them  remain  for  £  an  hour. 
Meanwhile  cover  each  croute  with  a  slice  of  hard-boiled  egg  seasoned 
with  salt  ana  pepper;  scrape  the  horseradish  finely  and  stir  it  into  the 
cream,  which  must  be  previously  whipped  and  seasoned  with  a  little 
cayenne  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice.  Place  the  strips  of  beef  on 
the  croutes,  piling  them  high  in  the  centre,  cover  with  the  horseradish 
sauce,  and  serve. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  gd.  to  is.,  exclusive  of  the  beef. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2750.— CURRIED  SHRIMPS.  (Fr.-  Crevettes    au 

Kari. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  shelled  shrimps,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  finely- 
chopped  shallot,  £  a  gill  of  cream,  \  a  gill  of  stock,  i  teaspoonful  of 
curry-powder,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice. 

Method.— Cut  the  shrimps  across  in  halves.  Fry  the  shallot  slightly 
in  butter,  add  the  curry-powder,  and  cook  it  for  3  minutes,  then  pour 
in  the  stock  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Let  it  simmer  very  gently  for  15 
minutes,  put  in  the  shrimps,  cream,  lemon-juice,  and  add  the  necessary 
seasoning.  Make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve  in  china  ramakin  cases. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  od.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2751.— CURRIED     PRAWNS.         (Fr.— Ecrevisses     * 
1'Orientale.) 

Ingredients. — 3  dozen  shelled  prawns,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  finely-chopped 
small  onion,  i  dessertspoonful  of  curry-powder,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  salt,  4  ozs.  of  plainly 
cooked  rice  (i.e.  boiled  in  salted  water  and  dried). 

Method. — Bro\vn  the  onion  lightly  in  the  hot  butter,  stir  in  the  curry- 
powder  and  flour,  and  cook  slowly  for  5  minutes.  Add  the  milk  and 
stir  until  it  boils,  then  cover  and  let  the  sauce  simmer  gently  for  \  an 
hour.  Now  put  in  the  prawns  and  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  cook 
gently  for  10  minutes,  and  serve  with  boiled  rice. 

Time. —  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  from  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  from 
4  to  8  persons,  according  to  size.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2752.-DEVILLED  CHICKENS'  LIVERS.       (Fr.-Foie 
de  Volaille  a  la  Diable.) 

Ingredients. — 4  chickens'  livers,  3  croutes  of  fried  bread,  bacon, 
i  finely-chopped  shillot,  £  a  t  -aspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
cayenne,  pepper  and  salt. 


1206         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  livers,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  sprinkle 
them  well  with  shallot,  parsley,  cayenne  and  pepper  ;  these  ingredients 
should  be  previously  mixed  together.  Cut  some  very  thin  slices  of 
bacon,  just  large  enough  to  roll  round  the  liver,  wrap  them  round 
tightly,  and  fasten  them  in  position  by  means  of  large  pins.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  7  or  8  minutes,  then  remove  the  pins,  dish  on  the 
toast,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2753.— DEVILLED    CRAB.     (Fr.— Crabe  a  la  Diable.) 

Ingredients. — A  medium-sized  boiled  crab,  breadcrumbs,  i  teaspoonful 
of  mixed  mustard,  i  teaspoonful  of  Worcester  sauce,  i  tablespoonful 
of  oiled  butter,  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste,  cream  or  milk. 

Method. — Remove  the  meat  from  the  shell  and  claws,  clean  the  shell, 
and  put  it  aside.  Chop  the  meat  of  the  crab,  add  to  it  an  equal  quantity 
of  breadcrumbs,  the  mustard,  sauce,  butter,  and  a  very  liberal  season- 
ing of  cayenne  and  salt.  Mix  well,  if  necessary  moisten  with  a  little 
milk  or  cream,  then  turn  the  whole  into  the  prepared  shell.  Cover 
lightly  with  breadcrumbs,  add  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter,  and  brown 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  4d.  Sufficient 
for  2  persons.  Seasonable,  all  the  year. 

2754.— DEVILLED   SHRIMPS.      (Fr.— Crevettes  a  la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — Picked  shrimps,  flour,  cayenne,  finely-chopped  parsley, 
frying-fat. 

Method. — Shake  the  shrimps  in  a  little  flour,  fry  them  in  a  frying- 
basket  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  nicely  browned,  and  drain  well. 
Sprinkle  lightly  with  cayenne  and  parsley,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  fry  the  shrimps,  from  3  to  4  minutes.  Average  Cost,  35. 
per  pint.  Allow  \  a  pint  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2755.— DRESSED  BEETROOT.         (Fr.— Betterave    a 
rOrientale.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  beetroot,  2  anchovies,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  i 
tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  capers,  i  very  finely-chopped  shallot, 
anchovy  essence,  lemon-juice,  brown  bread,  butter,  pepper,  cayenne, 
salt. 

Method.  —Prepare  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  cut  from  them 
8  or  9  rounds  about  i-|  inches  in  diameter,  and  cover  them  with  slices 
of  beetroot  of  corresponding  size  and  thickness.  Cut  the  eggs  across 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST   DISHES          1207 

into  thin  slices,  select  8  or  9  of  suitable  size,  remove  the  yolk,  and  place 
the  rings  of  white  of  egg  on  the  croutes,  leaving  visible  a  narrow  margin 
of  beetroot.  Pass  the  remainder  of  the  eggs  through  a  sieve,  mix  with 
them  the  capers  and  shallot,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon- juice  and  suffi- 
cient anchovy  essence  to  form  a  moist  paste.  Season  to  taste,  pile  the 
preparation  in  the  centre  of  the  crontes,  garnish  with  line  strips  of 
anchovies,  and  serve. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Season- 
able, all  the  year. 

2756.— EGGS  STUFFED  WITH   PRAWNS. 

(Fr. — CEufs  Farcis  aux  Crcvettes.) 

Ingredients. — 4  hard-boiled  eggs,  12  large  or  18  small  prawns,  ;  (iorgona 
anchovies,   ij-  ozs.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato  saua 
i    tablespoonful  of  Bechamel  sauce    (see  Sauces),  cay*  •    and 

pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  eggs  across  in  halves,  cut  off  their  extreme  ends 
so  that  they  may  stand  firmly,  and  remove  the  yolks.  Put  the  boned 
anchovies  and  the  picked  prawns  into  a  mortar,  add  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs,  pound  tl  <lunts  until  smooth,  then  rub  through  a  fmc 

wire  sieve.     Replace  in  the  mortar,  incorporate  the  butter  and  Bechamel 
sauce,  season  to  taste,  then  till  the  cases.     Sprinkle  the  sml.it 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  place  a  prawn  head  in  the  centre  of  each,  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about    i<>  minutes.     Serve  the  ton 
the  base  of  the  di^h. 

Time.— i  hour.  Average  Cost,  M,  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2757.— FOIE  GRAS  CROUTES.    (Fr.— Croutes  de  Foie 
Gras.) 

Ingredients. — Foie  gras,  salt  and  pepper,  croutes  of  fried  or  toasted 
bread,  cream,  or  brown  sauce. 

Method. — Pound  the  foie  gras,  adding  a  little  cream  or  sauce  until 
the  right  consistency  is  obtained.  Pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  season 
to  taste,  and  arrange  lightly  on  the  croutes,  using  a  bag  and  forcer 
if  available.  Garnish  tastefully  with  cream  previously  whipped  and 
highly-seasoned,  or  fancifully-cut  truffle,  hard-boiled  white  of  egg, 
or  any  other  suitable  decoration  preferred. 

Time.— i  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  ,}d.  each.  Allow  i  to  each 
person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2758.— FOIE   GRAS   TOAST.      (/«>.— Croutes  de   Foie 

Gras. 
Ingredients.  -Foie  gras,  salt  and  pepper,  croutes  of  toasted  bread. 


1208         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Slice  the  foie  gras,  and  stamp  it  into  rounds,  the  same 
size  as  the  croutes.  Warm  them  between  two  plates  over  a  saucepan 
of  boiling  water,  place  them  on  the  hot  croutes,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  then  serve. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  each.  Allow  i  to  each 
person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2759.— GOLDEN  BUCK. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese  (preferably  the 
former),  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  ale,  $  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcester  or 
other  cruet  sauce,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  2  eggs,  celery-salt, 
Krona  pepper,  toast,  butter. 

Method. — Chop  the  cheese  finely,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  £  an 
oz.  of  butter  and  the  ale,  and  stir  vigorously  until  creamy,  then  add 
the  Worcester  sauce,  lemon-juice,  and  the  eggs  previously  beaten. 
Season  to  taste  with  celery -salt  and  Krona  pepper,  and  continue  stirring 
briskly  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Trim  the  toast,  butter  well,  cut 
each  slice  into  4  squares,  arrange  them  compactly  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
pour  the  preparation  on  to  them.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  /d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2760. — HAM  CROUTES.     (Fr. — Croutes  au  Jambon.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham,  £  an  oz.  of  butter, 
i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  finely-chopped  shallot, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  pepper,  8  round  croutes  of 
fried  bread. 

Method. — Fry  the  shallot  in  the  butter  until  slightly  browned,  then 
add  the  ham  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  hot.  Now  put  in  the  yolks  of 
eggs  and  cream,  season  with  pepper,  stir  until  the  mixture  thickens, 
then  dish  on  the  croutes,  and  serve  sprinkled  with  parsley. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  ham. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2761.— HERRING  ROES,  CROUTES  OF.  (Fr.— Croutes 
de  Laitance  de  Harengs.) 

Ingredients. — 8  fresh  soft  roes,  anchovy  paste,  toast,  butter,  2  lemons, 
fried  parsley,  cayenne. 

Method. — Cut  the  toast  into  round  or  oval-shaped  pieces,  butter  them 
liberally,  and  spread  them  lightly  with  anchovy  paste.  Melt  about 
i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  saute-  or  frying-pan,  and  shake  or  gently  toss  the 
roes  in  it  over  the  fire  until  lightly  browned.  Dish  on  the  prepared 
toast,  sprinkle  with  lemon-juice  and  cayenne,  garnish  with  slices  of 
lemon  and  crisply-fried  parsley,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 


EGGS. 


i.   Eggs  a  la  CouiU't.          j.  Eggs  a  la  Dreux.          3.   Anchovy  Eggs. 


I  i 


HORS    D'CEUVRES, 


I.   Tartines  of  Anchovy.       2.    Caviare  Croutes.       3.    Sardines  on  Toast. 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES          1209 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

. — Tinned  roes  are  less  expensive,  and  although  their  flavour  is  inferior 
to  that  of  fresh  roes,  they  answer  very  well  for  ordinary  purposes.  As  they 
are  already  cooked,  they  simply  require  re-heating. 

2762.— HERRING  ROES,  BAKED.     (Fr.— Laitance  de 
Harengs  au  Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — 8  fresh  soft  roes,  3  tables poontuls  of  thick  brown  sauce 
(see  Sauces,  No.  233),  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  few  drops  of 
anchovy  essence,  i|  ozs.  of  butter,  4  coarsely-chopped  button  mushrooms, 
i  very  finely-chopped  shallot,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  pa 
lightly-browned  breadcrumbs,  8  round  or  oval  china  or  paper  souttle 
cases. 

Method. — Brush  the  inside  of  the  cases  with  clarified  butter, 
i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  put  in  the  mushrooms,  shallot  and 
parsley,  fry  lightly,  then  drain  off  the  butter  into  a  saute-pan.     .uM 
the  brown  sauce,  lemon-juice  and  anchovy  essence  to  the  mushrooms, 
etc.,  season  to  taste,  and  when  hot  pour  a  small  teaspoonful  into  each 
paper   case.     Re-heat    the    butter    in    the    saute-pan,    toss    the    roes 
gently  over  the  fire  until  lightly  browned,  then  place  one  in  each  case, 
and  cover  them  with  the  remainder  of  the  sauce.     Add  a  thin  la\ 
breadcrumbs,  on  the  top  plac  morsels  of  butter,  and  bake  in  a 

quick  oven  lor  6  or  7  minutes.     Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  lor  6  or  / 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2763.— HERRING    ROE    TIT-BITS.          (Fr.— Bonnes 
Bouches  de  Laitance  de  Harengs.) 

Ingredients. — 4  fresh  soft  roes,  bacon,  8  round  croutes  of  fried  bread 
or  buttered  toast,  anchovy  paste,  fine  strips  of  pickled  gherkin,  Krona 
pepper,  lemon-juice,  salt. 

Method. — Divide  the  roes  in  half,  fold  each  half  in  two,  and  cut  some 
very  thin  slices  of  bacon  just  large  enough  to  roll  round  the  roe. 
Sprinkle  the  inside  of  each  piece  of  bacon  with  lemon- juice,  Krona 
pepper  and  salt,  then  fold  them  lightly  round  the  roe  and  secure  the 
bacon  in  position  with  a  large  pin.  Fry  in  a  saute-pan  or  bake  in  a 
quick  oven  until  nicely  browned  and  crisp.  Meanwhile  spread  the 
croutes  thinly  with  anchovy  paste,  add  a  few  strips  of  gherkin,  cover 
with  a  buttered  paper,  and  heat  in  the  oven.  When  ready  to  a 
remove  the  pins,  sprinkle  with  Krona  pepper,  dish  on  the  croutes, 
them  to  table  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time.  — 15    minutes.     Average    Cost,    about    is.     Sufficient   for  6  or  7 
.     Seasonable   at    any    time. 


I2io  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2764.— IRISH  RABBIT  OR  RAREBIT. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  \  an  oz.  of  butter, 
2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  coarsely-chopped 
pickled  gherkin,  vinegar,  mustard,  pepper,  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Put  the  butter,  milk  and  cheese,  cut  into  small  pieces, 
into  a  saucepan,  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  ingredients  become 
creamy,  then  add  vinegar,  made  mustard  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
lastly  the  gherkin.  Have  ready  some  squares  of  hot  well-buttered 
toast,  pour  on  the  preparation,  and  serve  quickly. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  6d.  Sufficient  for  2 
persons,  or  6  or  7  small  savouries.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2765.— LITTLE    MOULDS    OF    SHRIMPS. 

(Fr. — Petits  Pains  de  Crevettes.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  picked  shrimps,  i  gill  of  cream,  i  gill  of 
stock,  2  eggs,  3  Spanish  olives,  2  finely-chopped  gherkins,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  chutney,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Stone  the  olives,  pound  them  well  with  the  shrimps,  gher- 
kins, and  chutney  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  the  eggs  separately 
and  the  stock  gradually,  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve.  Season  with 
cayenne  and  salt,  then  add  the  cream,  previously  stiffly  whipped. 
Have  ready  8  well-buttered  timbale  or  dariol  moulds,  sprinkle  them 
with  red  panurette  breadcrumbs  (this  useful  preparation  is  sold  in 
packets),  and  turn  the  mixture  into  them.  Place  the  moulds  in  a 
saute-pan,  surround  them  with  boiling  water,  and  steam  gently  for 
about  20  minutes.  Serve  with  watercress  sauce. 

Time. — 45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  4d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2766.— LOBSTER,  CREAMED.       (Fr.— Homard   a  la 
Newbury.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  lobster,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  %  a  gill 
of  thick  cream,  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
i  saltspoonful  of  Krona  pepper,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  7  or  8  small  croutes 
of  fried  or  toasted  bread,  parsley. 

Method. — Chop  the  flesh  of  the  lobster  finely,  cook  it  in  the  butter 
for  6  or  7  minutes,  stirring  meanwhile,  then  add  the  yolks  of  eggs  and 
cream,  previously  mixed  together,  and  the  seasoning.  Stir  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens,  then  dish  it  on  the  croutes, 
garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s,  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable,  all  the  year. 


SAVOURIES   AND    BREAKFAST   DISHES 

2767.— MACARONI    CHEESE.       (Fr.  —  Macaroni    au 
Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  2  ozs.  of  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
£  oz.  of  flour,  £  pint  of  milk,  made  mustard,  salt  and  pepper,  browned 
breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Place  a  saucepan  holding  about  2  quarts  of  water  on  the 
fire;  when  boiling  add  a  dessertspoonful  of  salt  and  the  macaroni 
broken  in  small  pieces,  and  cook  until  tender,  but  not  too  soft.  Make 
a  sauce  by  blending  the  butter  and  flour  together  over  the  fire,  add  the 
milk,  stir  until  boiling,  put  in  the  cheese,  macaroni,  mustard,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  sprinkle 
the  surface  with  brown  breadcrumbs  and  grated  cheese,  and  bake  in  a 
brisk  oven  for  about  10  minutes. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  <:d.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2768.— MARROW  TOAST.   (Fr.— Croutes  a  la  Moelle.) 

Ingredients. — Marrow  from  2  beef  bones,  buttered  toast,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Soak  the  marrow  in  tepid  water  lor  about  2  hours.  About 
1 5  minutes  before  the  dish  is  wanted,  cut  the  marrow  into  inch  lengths, 
place  them  in  cold  water,  bring  rapidly  to  boiling-point,  and  drain 
well.  Have  some  squares  of  very  hot,  well-buttered  toast,  put  the 
marrow  on  them,  breaking  it  up  and  spreading  it  with  a  fork,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  the  toast  before  the  fire  or  in  a 
hot  oven  until  the  marrow  is  thoroughly  melted,  then  serve  as  hot  as 
possible.  When  savoury  marrow  is  preferred,  sprinkle  the  above  with 
chopped  parsley,  chives,  and  lemon-juice,  just  before  serving. 

Time. — 2-\  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2769.— MARROW  WITH  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Moelle  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel.) 

Ingredients. — Marrow  from  2  bones,  buttered  toast.  For  the  sauce : 
j  tabu-spoonfuls  of  j;ood  white  sauce  (see  Sauces),  i  tablespoonful  o! 
cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice,  Krona  pepper. 

Method. —  Put  the  sauce  and  cream  into  a  small  stewpan,  and  when 
hot  add  lemon-juice  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Prepare  the  marrow 
a  the  preceding  recipe,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  scrvr. 

Time.— 2 J  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2770.— MEDALLIONS  OF  FOIE  GRAS.    (Fr.— Medall- 
ions de  Foie  Gras.) 

Ingredients. — i  terrine  of  foie  gras,  panada,  i  white  of  egg,  cream, 
salt  and  pepper,  brown  sauce,  croutes.  For  garnish  :  asparagus 
points  cooked,  strips  of  truffle,  and  hard-boiled  white  of  egg. 

Method. — Slice  the  foie  gras  and  cut  it  into  rounds  of  equal  size. 
Chop  the  trimmings  finely,  add  to  them  an  equal  quantity  of  panada, 
and  pound  well,  adding  the  white  of  egg,  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper,  and  a  little  cream.  Pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  spread  smoothly 
on  one  side  of  the  medallions,  and  steam  or  poach  them  gently  for  20 
minutes.  Place  them  on  the  croutes,  garnish  tastefully  with  strips 
of  truffle  and  egg  interlaced,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  round. 

Time. — To  cook  the  medallions,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
45.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2771.— MUSHROOM   AND    TOMATO   TOAST. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  fresh  mushrooms,  2  or  3  tomatoes,  \  an  oz. 
of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  2  rounds  of  toast,  chopped  parsley. 

Method. — Wash,  peel  and  cut  the  mushrooms  into  dice.  Heat  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  mushrooms,  cook  gently  for  20  minutes, 
and  season  to  taste.  Meanwhile  squeeze  the  greater  part  of  the  juice 
from  the  tomatoes,  pass  the  pulp  through  a  fine  sieve,  heat  it  in  a  stew- 
pan,  and  season  to  taste,  Place  the  prepared  mushrooms  on  the  toast, 
spread  the  tomato  puree  lightly  over  the  surface,  sprinkle  with  parsley, 
then  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d.  Sufficient  for  2  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2772.— MUSHROOMS  AU  GRATIN.  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Fresh  mushrooms,  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  bread- 
crumbs, finely-chopped  parsley,  finely-chopped  shallot,  butter,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  peel  the  mushrooms,  place  them  in  a  fireproof 
baking-dish,  sprinkle  them  lightly  with  salt,  pepper,  shallot,  parsley 
and  cheese,  and  thickly  with  breadcrumbs,  add  a  few  small  pieces  of 
butter,  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  15  minutes,  then  serve 
in  the  dish. 

Time. — About  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  6d.  to  is.  6d.  per 
Ib.  Allow  £  Ib.  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable,  all  the  year. 

2773.— MUSHROOMS,   GRILLED.       (See  Mushrooms, 
Broiled,  No.    1530.) 


SAVOURIES  AND  BREAKFAST  DISHES       1213 

2774.— MUSHROOM  SOUFFLE. 

Ingredients. — 6  large  mushrooms  peeled  and  finely  chopped,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  5  whites  of  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of 
milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  and  boil 
gently  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile.  Beat  each  yolk 
of  egg  in  separately,  stir  in  the  minced  mushrooms,  and  season  to  taste. 
Whisk  the  whites  of  eggs  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  into  the  mixture,  and 
turn  the  whole  into  a  well-buttered  souffle  tin  or  case.  Bake  in  a  fairly 
hot  oven  for  about  4  an  hour,  and  serve  at  once. 

Time. — About  £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2775.— MUSHROOMS,   STUFFED.       (See  Chapter  on 
Vegetables.) 

2776.— OLIVES  IN  JELLY.     (Fr.— Olives  a  1' Aspic.) 

Ingredients.- — Turned  olives,  anchovy  butter  No.  2454,  watercress 
butter,  croutes  of  fried  bread,  aspic  jelly,  chervil. 

Method. — Fill  each  olive  with  anchovy  butter,  and  place  them  in 
small  moulds  previously  lined  with  aspic  jelly,  and  decorated  with 
chervil.  Fill  the  moulds  with  cold  liquid  aspic  jelly,  and  keep  on  ice 
until  firm.  Meanwhile  spread  each  croute  rather  thickly  with  water- 
cress butter,  and,  when  ready,  place  the  moulds  upon  them,  then 
serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  i^d.  to  2d.  each. 
Allow  i  to  each  person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2777.— OLIVES  ON  CROUTES.        (Fr.— Canapes  aux 
Olives.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  olives,  8  or  9  round  croutes  of  fried  bread,  foie- 
gras  or  liver  farce  No.  398,  chervil. 

Method. — Remove  the  stones  from  the  olives  and  fill  the  cavities 
with  foie-gras,  also  spread  the  croutes  with  the  same.  Decorate  the 
top  of  each  olive  with  a  sprig  of  chervil,  place  them  on  the  croutes, 
and  serve. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2778.— OYSTERS,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Fritot  d'Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  10  oysters,  fat  bacon,  8  or  10  round  croutes  of  fried 
bread,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  very  finely-chopped  shallot,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  lemon-juice,  Krona  pepper,  frying-fat, 
fry  ing-batter  (see  p.  882). 


1214  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Beard  the  oysters,  slice  the  bacon  very  thinly,  and  with  a 
sharp  cutter  stamp  out  small  rounds  from  i£  to  if-  inches  in  diameter. 
Season  the  oysters  with  lemon- juice  and  Krona  pepper,  place  each  one 
between  2  rounds  of  bacon,  pressing  the  edges  firmly  together.  Make 
the  batter  as  directed,  season  it  well  with  Krona  pepper,  add  the 
shallot  and  parsley,  then  dip  in  the  rounds  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat  until 
nicely  browned  and  crisp.  Drain  well,  and  serve  on  the  prepared 
croutes,  sprinkled  with  chopped  parsley  or  Krona  pepper. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  6  or 
7  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

2779.— OYSTERS    IN    CASES.  (Fr.— Huitres    en 

Caisses  a  la  Diable.) 

Ingredients. — 12  large  oysters,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
(see  Sauces,  No.  178),  I  tablespoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  butter, 
breadcrumbs,  cayenne,  8  or  9  china  or  paper  souffle  cases. 

Method. — Beard  the  oysters,  cut  each  one  into  4  pieces,  strain  the 
liquor  into  the  white  sauce,  and  boil  until  slightly  reduced.  Let  the 
sauce  cool,  then  add  it  to  the  oysters,  half  the  cheese,  and  cayenne  to 
taste.  Brush  the  souffle  cases  over  with  oiled  butter,  and  fill  them 
with  the  preparation.  Mix  the  remainder  of  the  cheese  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  breadcrumbs,  cover  the  surface  of  the  ragout  lightly  with 
this  mixture,  add  a  few  drops  of  oiled  butter,  and  bake  for  5  or  6  minutes 
in  a  hot  oven. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.,  exclusive  of  the  cases. 
Sufficient  for  8  or  9  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

2780.— OYSTERS  IN  SHELLS.        (Fr.— Huitres  Gra- 
tinees  en  Coquilles.) 

Ingredients. — 18  oysters,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  Bechamel  sauce  No. 
178,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  a  lemon,  cayenne,  white  breadcrumbs,  parsley. 

Method. — Open  the  oysters,  remove  the  beards,  strain  and  preserve 
the  liquor.  Wash  9  deep  shells,  dry  them,  and  coat  the  insides  with 
butter.  Put  a  teaspoonful  of  Bechamel  sauce  in  each  shell,  also  a  few 
drops  of  liquor  and  lemon-juice,  lay  the  oysters  on  the  top,  season  with 
a  little  cayenne,  and  cover  with  sauce.  Sprinkle  the  entire  surface 
with  breadcrumbs,  lay  a  small  piece  of  butter  on  the  top  of  each,  and 
brown  them  slightly  in  a  hot  oven. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  2s.  6d.  to  35.  Sufficient 
for  9  coquilles.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

2781.— OYSTERS    ON    TOAST.          (Fr.— Huitres    sur 
Canapes.) 

Ingredients.  —  1 2  oysters,  cooked  ham,  white  or  brown  bread,  butter, 
salt,  cayenne,  fried  parsley. 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES          1215 

Method. — Toast  some  thin  slices  of  either  white  or  brown  bread, 
and  from  them  cut  1 2  rounds  from  i£  to  2  inches  in  diameter.  Cover  each 
one  with  a  round  of  ham  of  corresponding  size,  and  place  on  it  an  oyster, 
previously  bearded.  Season  with  a  little  salt  and  a  tiny  pinch  of 
cayenne,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  then  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about 
3  minutes.  Dish  on  a  folded  serviette  or  dish  paper,  garnish  with  fried 
parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  9d.  Sufficient  for 
12  canapes.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 


2782.— OLIVE  SANDWICHES.    (See  Sandwiches.) 

2783.— OYSTERS,    SCALLOPED.       (Fr.  —  Escallopes 
aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — 12  large  or  18  small  oysters,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of 
thick  white  sauce,  lemon-juice,  white  breacrumbs,  butter,  pepper 
and  salt. 

Method. — Blanch  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  remove  the  beards, 
and  cut  them  in  halves.  Strain  the  liquor  into  the  white  sauce,  boil 
until  sufficiently  reduced,  then  add  lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Brush  8  or  9  small  scallop  shells  over  with  nearly  cold  clarified 
butter,  and  coat  them  with  the  breadcrumbs.  Distribute  the  OVMITS 
equally,  add  the  prepared  sauce,  cover  lightly  with  breadcrumbs, 
put  2  or  3  morsels  of  butter  on  the  top  of  each,  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
until  nicely  browned,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  oxl.  to  2s.  pd.  Sufficient 
for  7  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

2784.— OYSTER  TIT-BITS.         (Fr.— Bonnes   Bouches 
aux  Huitres.) 

Ingredients.  —  8  or  9  oysters,  8  or  9  round  croutes  of  2-inches  in 
diameter,  fried  bread,  bacon,  anchovy  paste,  lemon-juice,  butter,  Krona 
pepper. 

Method. — Beard  the  oysters,  place  them  between  2  plates  with  their 
own  liquor  and  a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  warm  in  the  oven  or  over 
a  saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Spread  each  croute  with  anchovy  paste, 
cover  with  a  stamped-out  round  of  very  thin  fried  bacon,  and  place 
an  oyster  on  the  top  of  each.  Sprinkle  with  lemon-juice  and  Krona 
pepper,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  9d.  Sufficient  for 
(>  or  ~  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 


I2i6  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2785. — ROES  ON  TOAST.  (See  Croutes  of  Cod's  Roe, 
No.  2747  ;  Herring  Roes,  Croutes  of,  No.  2761 ; 
and  Herring  Roe,  Tit-Bits,  No.  2763.) 

2786.— SALTED  ALMONDS.     (Fr.—  Amandes  Salees.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  blanched  whole  almonds,  J  of  a  pint  of 
salad-oil,  i  tablespoonful  of  celery -salt,  i  small  saltspoonful  of  cayenne 
pepper. 

Method. — Fry  the  almonds  in  the  oil  until  nicely  browned,  then  drain 
well,  and  toss  them  in  the  seasoning,  which  should  be  held  in  a  sheet 
of  strong  paper.  Serve  in  small  fancy  paper  cases. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


2787.— SARDINE  CANAPEES.  (See  Sardine  Crous- 
tades,  No.  2788  ;  Sardines  with  Tomatoes,  No. 
2796  ;  Sardines  with  Capers,  No.  2797.) 

2788.— SARDINE  CROUSTADES.  (Fr.— Croustades 
de  Sardines.) 

Ingredients. — 2  large  or  3  small  sardines,  i  tablespoonful  of  white  or 
tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces),  i  teaspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese, 
a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  cayenne  pepper,  stale  bread,  clarified  butter 
or  fat,  watercress. 

Method. — Cut  slices  of  stale  bread  from  £  to  f  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
stamp  out  8  or  9  rounds  or  oval  shapes  about  2  inches  in  diameter, 
and  with  a  smaller  cutter  make  an  inner  circle  or  oval  \  of  an  inch  from 
the  outer  edge  of  the  croustade.  Fry  them  in  hot  clarified  butter 
or  fat  until  lightly  browned,  then  with  the  point  of  a  small  sharp  knife 
lift  out  the  inner  ring,  remove  all  moist  crumb,  place  them  in  a  moderate 
oven  to  become  crisp  and  dry,  and  cool  before  using.  Meanwhile 
skin  and  bone  the  sardines,  divide  them  into  fine  £-inch  strips,  put 
them  with  the  sauce  into  a  small  stewpan,  and,  when  using  white  sauce, 
add  also  a  few  drops  of  anchovy  essence.  Season  to  taste  with  salt 
and  cayenne,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  and  when  thoroughly 
hot  stir  in  the  cheese.  Fill  the  croustades  with  the  preparation,  garnish 
with  watercress  seasoned  with  oil  and  vinegar,  and  serve. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  pd.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES          1217 

2789.— SARDINES,  DEVILLED.      (Fr.—  Sardines  a  la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  10  sardines,  8  or  10  fried  finger-shaped  croutos. 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  finely -chopped  shallot,  lemon-juice,  cayenne,  Krona 
pepper,  salt. 

Method. — Skin  the  sardines,  split  them  down  the  back,  remove  the 
bone,  and  replace  the  two  halves.  Sprinkle  them  with  lemon-juice, 
shallot,  cayenne,  and  salt,  cover  and  let  them  remain  for  |  an  hour, 
during  which  time  they  must  be  turned  once,  and  again  sprinkled  with 
lemon-juice,  etc.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  drain  and  dry  the 
sardines,  rub  them  over  lightly  with  flour,  and  fry  them  until  nicely 
browned.  Meanwhile  fry  the  croutes  in  clarified  butter  or  fat,  lay  on 
each  a  sardine,  sprinkle  with  lemon-juice  and  Krona  pepper,  and  serve 
as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2790.—  SARDINE   ECLAIRS.       (Fr.— Eclairs   de   Sar- 
dines.)    (See  Anchovy  Eclairs,  No.  2712.) 

2791.— SARDINE  EGGS.    (Fr. — Sardines  aux  CEufs.) 

Ingredients. — 4  sardines,  4  hard-boiled  eggs,  2  tablespoon! uls  of  white 
sauce,  i  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  watercress,  cayenne,  i 
dessertspoonful  of  coarsely-chopped  pickled  gherkin. 

Method. — Cut  the  eggs  across  in  halves,  trim  off  the  extreme  end 
of  each  to  enable  them  to  stand  firmly,  and  carefully  remove  the  yolks. 
Skin  and  bone  the  sardines,  chop  them  coarsely,  and  pound  them 
together  with  the  yolks  of  eggs  still  smooth.  Add  the  anchovy  essence 
and  the  white  sauce  gradually  until  a  moist  paste  is  obtained,  then 
season  to  taste,  and  rub  through  a  hair  sieve.  Add  the  gherkin  to  the 
preparation,  put  it  into  the  white  of  egg  cases,  garnish  with  watercress 
seasoned  with  oil  and  vinegar,  and  serve. 

Time. —  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  8  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2792. — SARDINES,     FRIED.  (Fr.  —  Beignets    de 

Sardines.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  sardines,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
i  finely-chopped  shallot,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  cayenne,  Krona 
pepper,  frying-fat,  frying-batter  (see  p.  882). 

Method. — Skin,  bone  and  divide  the  sardines  in  halves,  sprinkle 
over  them  the  lemon-juice,  parsley  and  shallot,  cover  with  a  plate, 
and  let  them  remain  for  i  hour.  Make  the  batter  as  directed,  dip  in 

R  R 


I2i8  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  sardines,  fry  them  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned,  then  drain 
well.  Arrange  in  a  pyramidal  form  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  with  Krona 
pepper,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1|  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — For  another  method  of  frying,  see  Anchovy  Aigrettes.  Four 
sardines  may  be  substituted  for  the  anchovies,  the  other  ingredients  remaining 
the  same. 

,j 

2793-—  SARDINES,  GRILLED.       (See  Sardines  Devil- 
led, No.  2789.) 

Prepare  the  sardines  as  directed,  but  instead  of  frying  them,  grill 
them  over,  or  in  front  of,  a  clear  fire. 


2794.— SARDINE    PATTIES.  (Fr.— Bouchees    de 

Sardines.) 

Ingredients. — 2  large  or  3  small  sardines,  I  tablespoonful  of  white 
sauce  (see  Sauces),  I  teaspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  a  few 
drops  of  lemon-juice,  a  few  drops  of  anchovy  essence,  cayenne,  puff 
paste  No.  1665,  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Prepare  8  patty  cases  i|  inches  in  diameter  (see  No.  795), 
when  baked,  remove  and  put  aside  the  lids,  scoop  out  the  soft  inside, 
and  keep  the  cases  hot  until  required.  Skin  and  bone  the  sardines, 
and  divide  them  into  fine  ^-inch  strips.  Put  the  sauce  and  sardines 
into  a  small  stewpan;  when  hot,  add  the  anchovy  essence,  lemon-juice 
and  cayenne  to  taste,  and  stir  in  the  cheese.  Fill  the  cases  with  the 
preparation,  put  on  the  lids,  garnish  with  crisply-fried  parsley,  and 
serve. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  5d.,  exclusive  of  the  puff  paste. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2795.— SARDINE  TOAST.     (Fr.— Croutes  de  Sardines.) 

Ingredients — 4  sardines,  |  an  oz.  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  toast, 
butter,  cayenne. 

Method. — Skin  and  bone  the  sardines  and  chop  them  coarsely.  Put 
the  milk  and  butter  into  a  stewpan;  when  hot,  add  the  prepared  sar- 
dines, anchovy  essence  and  a  little  cayenne,  and  last  of  all  the  yolks 
of  eggs.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  eggs  thicken,  but  do  not 
let  them  boil,  or  they  may  curdle.  Have  ready  well-buttered  squares 
of  toast,  pour  on  the  preparation,  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES         1210 

2796.— SARDINES     WITH     TOMATOES. 

(Fr. — Sardines  a  la  Napolitaine.) 

Ingredients. — 8  small  or  4  large  sardiru-  shaped  croutes  of 

fried  bread  or  buttered  toast,  2  tomatoes,  i  tcaspoonful  of  cornflour, 
i  teaspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Skin  the  sardines,  remove  the  bones,  and  divide  them  in 
halves  if  large.  Squeeze  as  much  juice  as  possible  from  the  tomatoes, 
and  rub  t\e  pulp  through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  it  into  a  small  stewpan; 
when  hot  add  the  cornflour,  previously  blended  with  a  little  tomato- 
juice,  and  stir  until  it  thickens.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  stir 
in  the  cheese,  and  spread  each  croute  lightly  with  the  preparation. 
Lay  the  sardines  on  the  top,  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  the  tomato 
mixture,  place  in  the  oven  until  thoroughly  hot,  then  serve. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  icxl.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2797.— SARDINES  WITH  CAPERS.        (Fr.— Sardines 
aux  Capres. 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  sardines,  i  level  dessertspoonful  of  finely  chopped 

,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  liquid  meat  glaze,  grated  Panne 
buttered  toast  or  fried  finger-shaped  croutons,  cayenne. 

Method. — Skin  ;md  hone  the  sardine>,  ami  divide  them  in  h.ihv-. 
Prepare  the  croutes  or  cut  the  toast  into  fingers,  place  \  a  sardine  ^n 
each, .add  a  few  grains  t  .  inkle  liberally  with  ch» 

with  a  buttered  paper,  and  make  thoroughly  hot  in  the  oven.  Heat  the 
glaze,  add  to  it  the  capers,  pour  it  over  the  sardines,  and  serve  as  hot 
as  possible. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  lime. 

2798.— SARDINES  WITH  MAITRE  D'HOTEL  SAUCE. 
(Fr.— Sardines  a  la  Maitre  d'Hotel.') 

Ingredients.  —4  or  $  sardines,  j  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  white  ^uiee 
i  tenspooniul  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice,  toast,  butter,  Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Skin  and  bone  the  sardines,  and  divide  them  in  halves. 
Cut  the  toast  into  fingers,  butter  them  well,  place  I  a  sardine  on  each. 
season  with  Krona  pepper,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  make 
thoroughly  hot  in  the  oven.  Meanwhile,  add  the  parsley  and  lemon- 
juice  to  the  hot  white  sauce.  nd  when  ready  to  s<  r\  <• 
pour  it  ov 

Time. -Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  od.  Sufficient  lor  r,  m  s 
M,  Seasonable  at  anv  time. 


1220  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2799.— SAVOURY  TOMATOES.  (See  Tomatoes,  Baked, 
No.  1611;  Tomatoes,  Stuffed,  No.  1617 
Tomatoes  Stuffed  with  Mushrooms,  No.  1618, 
and  other  Recipes  given  in  Chapter  XXX. 

2800. — SCALLOPS.     (See  Recipes  No.  615-621.) 
2801.— SCALLOPED  LOBSTER. 

Ingredients. — i  hen  lobster,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  2  yolks  of  eggs, 
anchovy  essence,  butter,  breadcrumbs,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  spawn,  pound  it  with  i  oz.  of  butter,  and  pass 
it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Cut  the  flesh  of  the  lobster  into  small  dice. 
Heat  the  sauce,  add  the  pounded  spawn,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy 
essence,  cayenne  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  add  the  lobster  and  yolks  of  eggs,  and  continue  to  stir  and 
cook  slowly  for  2  or  3  minutes  longer.  Turn  into  well-buttered  scallop 
shells,  or  the  lobster  shell  if  preferred,  and  add  a  thin  layer  of  bread- 
crumbs. Sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  few  small  pieces 
of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  %  an  hour. 

Time. — To  bake  the  scallops,  about  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  from 
2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  July  to 
September. 

2802.— SCALLOPED  LOBSTER  (TINNED.) 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  lobster  (a  good  brand),  \  of  a  pint  of  white 
sauce,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  butter,  breadcrumbs,  salt, 
cayenne. 

Method. — Take  the  lobster  out  of  the  tin,  and  cut  the  flesh  into  small  dice. 
Make  the  white  sauce  as  directed  (see  Sauces,  No.  222),  add  about  £  a 
teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  salt  to  taste,  and  a  liberal  seasoning  of 
cayenne.  Place  the  prepared  lobster  in  well-buttered  scallop  shells,  cover 
lightly  with  sauce,  and  add  a  thin  layer  of  breadcrumbs.  Sprinkle  with 
oiled  butter,  bake  until  lightly  browned,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  bake  the  scallops,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2803.— SCOTCH    WOODCOCK.  (Fr.— Anchois    a 

TEcossaise.) 

Ingredients. — The  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i  gill  of  cream  (or  cream  and  milk 
in  equal  parts),  anchovy  paste,  toast;  butter,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  toast  into  2-inch  squares,  butter  well,  and  spread 
them  with  anchovy  paste.  Season  the  yolks  with  a  little  cayenne  and 


SAVOURIES    AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES          1221 

salt;  when  slightly  beaten  add  them  to  the  hot  cream,  stir  over  the 
fire  until  they  thicken  sufficiently,  then  pour  the  preparation  over  the 
toast,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  iod.,  when  cream  is  used. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2804.—  SCRAMBLED     EGGS     WITH     ANCHOVIES. 
(Fr. — CEufs   Brouilles   aux  Anchois.) 

Ingredients — 3  eggs,  3  anchovies,  $  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful 
of  cream  or  milk,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy,  toast,  butter, 
capers,  parsley,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Skin  and  bone  the  anchovies,  and  cut  them  into  fine  strips. 
Cut  the  toast  into  pieces  3  inches  long  and  2  inches  wide,  and  spread 
them  thickly  with  butter.  Beat  the  eggs  slightly,  then  put  them  with 
the  butter,  cream,  and  anchovy  essence  into  the  stewpan,  and  season 
to  taste.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens,  put 
it  on  the  toast,  lay  the  strips  of  anchovy  across,  forming  a  lattice, 
and  place  a  caper  in  each  division.  Re-heat  in  the  oven,  then  serve 
garnished  with  parsley. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  iod.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2805.— SHRIMP  TOAST.  (Fr.—  Crevettes  sur  Croutes.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  picked  shrimps,  anchovy  paste,  |  an  oz. 
of  butter,  i  egg,  i  tablespoonful  of  milk,  salt,  cayenne,  8  croutes  of 
buttered  toast. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  shrimps,  and  when 
hot  add  the  eggs  and  milk,  previously  beaten  together,  salt  and  cayenne 
to  taste,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens. 
Meanwhile  spread  the  toast  lightly  with  anchovy  paste,  and  now 
add  the  shrimp  preparation,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  od.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2806.— SMOKED  HADDOCK  CROUSTADES. 

(Fr.—  Croustades  a  la  St.  George.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  small  dried  haddock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  \  a  pint  of  milk, 
I,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
brown  bread,  nutmeg,  pepper,  Krona  pepper. 

Method.- -Pour  boiling  water  over  the  fish,  and  let  it  remain  covered 
for  10  minutes,  then  remove  the  skin  and  bones,  and  divide  the  haddock 
into  large  flakes.  Place  these  in  a  stewpan  with  the  hot  milk,  simmer 
gently  for  10  minutes,  then  strain,  put  the  milk  aside,  and  chop  the  lish 
tinrlv.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallot  without  browning, 


1222  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

then  put  in  the  fish  and  parsley,  and  when  hot  add  the  eggs,  previously 
beaten  with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  the  milk  in  which  the  haddock  was 
cooked.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  stir  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Meanwhile  prepare  8 
croustades  of  brown  bread  (see  Caviare  Croustades,  No.  2724 \  fill  them 
with  the  fish  preparation,  garnish  with  parsley  and  Krona  pepper, 
and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Tims. — 40    minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.   or  9d.     Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 


2807.— SMOKED  HADDOCK  CROUTES. 

(Fr. — Croutes  de  Merluche  fumee.) 

Ingredients. —2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  cooked  haddock, 
£  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  %  of  a  pint  of  milk,  anchovy  essence, 
\  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  Krona  pepper,  cayenne, 
8  round  croutes  (2  inches  in  diameter)  of  fried  bread. 

Method. — Heat  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  pour 
in  the  milk,  and  boil  well.  Add  the  fish,  anchovy  essence,  Krona 
pepper,  and  cayenne  to  taste,  and  stir  until  thoroughly  hot.  Pile 
lightly  on  the  croutes,  garnish  with  parsley  and  Krona  pepper,  and 
serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2808.— SMOKED  HADDOCK  SOUFFLE.  (Fr.— Souffle 
de  Merluche  fumee.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  cooked  smoked  haddock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs, 
anchovy  essence,  cayenne,  Krona  pepper,  8  or  9  china  or  paper  souffle 
cases,  clarified  butter. 

Method. — Coat  the  souffle  cases  thickly  with  butter.  Pound  the  fish 
whilst  warm,  adding  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  one  at  a  time  and  the  butter 
gradually,  season  highly  with  cayenne  and  Krona  pepper,  and  when 
perfectly  smooth  pass  through  a  fine  sieve.  Whisk  the  whites  of  egg 
to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  lightly  into  the  mixture,  fill  the  cases  %  full, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  10  minutes.  Sprinkle  with  Krona 
pepper,  and  serve  quickly. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2809.— SWISS  EGGS.     (Fr.— CEufs  a  la  Suisse.) 

Ingredients. — 8  eggs,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  i\  ozs.  of 
butter,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne, 


SAVOURIES   AND    BREAKFAST    DISHES          1223 

Method. — Butter  8  china  ramakin  cases,  put  a  small  teaspoonful  of 
cheese  at  the  bottom  of  each  one,  and  add  a  little  seasoning.  Break 
the  eggs  carefully,  keeping  the  yolks  whole,  lay  one  in  each  case, 
cover  with  a  small  teaspoonful  of  cheese,  add  a  little  seasoning,  place, 
a  small  piece  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake  until  set.  Serve  hot. 

Time.— 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  gd.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons  Seasonable  at  any  time 

2810.— TOASTED    CHEESE.      (Fr.—  Croutes  au  Fro- 
mage.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter, 

1  mustardspoonful  of  dry  mustard,  cayenne,  buttered  toast. 
Method. — Knead  the  butter,  mustard,  and  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne 

well  together  on  a  plate.  Prepare  i  slice  of  buttered  toast,  trim  the 
edges,  cover  with  half  the  cheese  sliced  very  thinly,  and  spread  on  half 
the  butter.  Now  add  the  remainder  of  the  slices  of  cheese,  cover  with 
butter  as  above,  and  cook  in  a  Dutch  oven  before  the  fire  until  the 
cheese  is  melted.  Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  7d.  or  8d.  Sufficient  for  2 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2811.— WELSH  RABBIT  OR  RAREBIT. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  4-  an  oz.  of  butter, 

2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  or  ale,  mustard,  pepper,  buttered  toast. 
Method. — Cut  the  cheese  into  small  pieces,  place  these  in  a  saucepan 

with  the  butter,  milk,  or  ale,  ±  a  mustardspoonful  of  mustard  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  stir  the  mixture  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  it 
resembles  thick  cream.  Have  ready  some  squares  of  hot  well-buttered 
toast,  pour  on  the  cheese  preparation,  and  serve  ajt  once. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons,  if  served  as  a  savoury.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2812.— WOODCOCK  TOAST. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  chicken  or  duck  livers,  2  anchovies,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  £of  a  teaspoonful  of 
castor  sugar,  |  of  a  teaspoonful  of  paprika  or  Krona  pepper,  salt, 
buttered  toast. 

Method. — Bone  and  skin  the  anchovies  and  pound  t^em  to  a  paste. 
Wash,  drain,  and  dry  the  livers,  and  pound  them  also;  pass  both 
livers  and  anchovies  through  a  fine  sieve.  Add  to  them  the  butter, 
cream,  yolks  of  eggs,  castor  sugar,  paprika  or  Krona  pepper,  salt  to 
taste,  and  stir  in  a  stewpan  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  <he  mixture 
thickens.  Have  ready  some  buttered  toast,  pour  on  the  preparation, 
and  serve  at  once. 

Time. — (JuurU-r  oi  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1224  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2813.— YORKSHIRE  RABBIT  OR  RAREBIT. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  £  anoz.  of  butter, 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  or  ale,  Worcester  sauce  or  vinegar,  mustard, 
pepper,  buttered  toast,  2  poached  eggs. 

Method. — Cut  tin  cheese  into  small  pieces,  place  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  the  butter,  milk  or  ale,  add  a  little  made  mustard,  a  few  drops 
of  Worcester  sauce  or  vinegar,  pepper  to  taste,  stir  and  cook  gently 
until  the  mixture  resembles  thick  cream.  Meanwhile,  prepare  i  slice 
of  buttered  toast,  trim  the  edges  and  cut  it  in  two,  and  poach  the 
eggs  in  as  plump  a  form  as  possible.  Pour  the  cheese  preparation 
over  the  toast,  lay  the  eggs  on  the  top,  and  serve  quickly. 

Time. — Quarter  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  8d.  Sufficient  for  2 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2814.— ZEPHIRES  OF  CHEESE.      (Fr.— Zephires  au 
Parmesan.) 

Ingredients. — 3  heaped  tablespoonfuls  of  Parmesan  cheese,  i  oz.  of 
gelatine,  \  a  pint  of  cream,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  milk  for  \  an  hour,  then  stir  it  over 
the  fire  until  it  is  dissolved.  Let  it  cool,  add  the  cheese,  the  cream 
previously  stiffly-whipped,  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Turn  into  oval 
fluted  zephire  moulds,  set  on  ice  until  firm,  then  unmould  and  serve 
garnished  with  chopped  aspic  jelly  and  shredded  truffle  and  pimiento. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — By  changing  the  shape  of  the  mould,  the  term  Zephire  may  be  ap- 
plied to  many  of  the  preparations  described  as  Dariols,  Timbales  and  Souffles. 

Breakfast   Dishes 

2815.— AMERICAN  FISH  PIE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  cooked  turbot,  cod  or  other  white  fish,  |  of  a  Ib. 
of  mashed  potato,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  grated  Parmesan  chccso, 
£  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces),  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  whole  egg,  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper,  cayenne. 

Method. — Free  the  fish  from  skin  and  bones,  divide  it  into  large 
flakes,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  the  sauce 
and  cheese,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  and 
heat  gradually  by  the  side  of  the  fire.  Melt  the  remaining  ounce  of 
butter  in  another  stewpan,  add  the  potato,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  season  well 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  the  ingredients  vigorously  over  the  fire 
until  thoroughly  hot.  Have  ready  a  well  buttered  pie-dish,  line  the 
bottom  and  sides  thinly  with  potato  puree,  using  about  half  of  it,  put 


BREAKFAST    DISHES  1225 

in  the  prepared  fish,  and  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  potato. 
Smooth  the  surface  and  notch  the  edges  with  a  knife,  giving  it  the 
appearance  of  a  paste  crust,  brush  it  over  with  egg,  sprinkle  liberally 
with  grated  cheese,  and  bake  in  a  moderately- hot  oven  until  well 
browned.  Serve  hot. 

Average  Cost,  iod.,  exclusixe  of  the  fish.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2816.— BACON  AND  MACARONI. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  4  ozs.  of  streaky  bacon,  £  a  pint  of 
stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper* 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into 
slightly  salted  boiling  water,  boil  rapidly  for  5  minutes,  then  drain 
well.  Have  the  stock  boiling  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  macaroni 
and  stew  until  tender,  but  not  too  soft.  Cut  the  bacon  into  small  dice, 
fry  slightly  in  a  saute-pan,  then  add  the  well-drained  macaroni,  butter, 
a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Stir  gently 
over  the  fire  until  the  macaroni  acquires  a  nice  brown  colour,  then  turn 
on  to  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3 
persons. 

2817.— BACON  OLIVES. 

Ingredients. — 8  small  thin  slices  of  bacon,  3  ozs.  of  finely-chopped 
cooked  meat,  i  oz.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham  or  tongue,  i£  table- 
spoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  i  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  a 
teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
mixed  herbs,  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  nutmeg,  croutes  of  toasted  bread, 
|  ol  a  pint  of  tomato  or  piquante  sauce  (see  Sauces,  Nos.  282  and  265). 

Method. — Mix  the  meat,  ham,  breadcrumbs,  onion,  parsley,  and  herbs 
together,  add  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  stir  in  gradually  as  much  of  the  egg  as  is  necessary  to  bind  the  whole 
together.  Put  aside  for  about  %  an  hour,  then  divide  it  into  8  portions  ; 
shape  them  in  the  form  of  a  cork,  roll  them  in  a  piece  of  bacon,  and  secure 
with  twine  or  large  pins.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about 
}  an  hour,  then  dish  on  the  croutes,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve 
the  sauce  separately. 

Time.— About  £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  iod.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2818.— BACON,  TOAST  AND  EGGS. 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  rashers  of  fried  bacon,  i  round  of  toast,  2  eggs 
scrambled  (see  Scrambled  F.gg,  No.  2009). 


1226  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Make  the  toast  and  fry  the  bacon  crisply.  Scramble 
the  eggs  as  directed,  pile  the  prepara  ion  on  the  toast,  arrange  the  bacon 
round  the  base,  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  ;d.  Sufficient  for  i  or  2 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2819.— BAKED    LOBSTER.     (Fr.— Homard   au    Gra- 
tin.) 

Ingredients. — i  tin  of  lobster,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of 
cream,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  finely-chopped  small  shallot  or 
onion,  a  bouquet-gam;  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  a  blade  of  mace, 
essence  of  anchovy,  brown  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallot  without 
browning,  add  the  milk  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Now  put  in  the  bouquet- 
garni,  mace,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes, 
then  add  the  cream  and  a  few  drops  of  anchovy  essence.  Meanwhile 
divide  the  lobster  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  place  them  in  a 
gratin  dish  or  a  china  baking  dish  that  may  be  sent  to  table,  pour  over 
the  prepared  sauce,  sprinkle  lightly  with  brown  breadcrumbs,  add  a 
few  morsels  of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  10  minutes. 
Serve  hot  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  baked. 

Time. — About  half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  2d.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2820.— BEEF  POLANTINE. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  cold  roast  beef,  i  gill  of  brown  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No.  233),  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  ripe  firm  tomatoes,  2  medium-sized 
onions,  frying-fat,  milk,  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  £  of  a  pint  of  gravy. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  short  fine  shreds,  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  the  sauce,  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  nutmeg  to 
taste,  and  warm  gradually.  Peel  the  onions,  cut  them  across 
in  slices,  divide  the  slices  into  rings,  dip  these  in  milk  and  then  in  flour, 
fry  in  hot  fat  and  keep  them  warm.  Slice  the  tomatoes  and  fry  them 
in  hot  butter,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  arrange  them 
on  a  hot  dish.  Place  the  meat  on  the  top  of  the  tomatoes,  and  garnish 
with  the  rings  of  fried  onion.  Pour  the  gravy  round,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.,  exclusive  of  the  meat. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2821. — BLOATERS.     (See  Recipe  No.  418.) 

2822.— BLOATER  FRITTERS.     (Fr.— Beignets  de  Ha- 
reng  fume.) 

Ingredients. — 2  bloaters,  i  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  frying  batter  (see 
p.  882),  frying-fat,  Krona  pepper. 


BREAKFAST   DISHES  1227 


Method. — Split  the  bloaters,  remove  the  heads,  skin,  bones,  and  divide 
each  half  into  3  or  4  pieces,  according  to  size.  Make  the  batter  as 
directed,  stir  in  the  cheese,  dip  in  the  pieces  of  fish,  coating  them  care- 
fully, and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well,  sprinkle 
with  Krona  pepper,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  ;d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2823.— BRAIN  FRITTERS.        (Fr.— Beignets  de  Cer- 
velles.) 

Ingredients. — Calf's  or  pig's  brains,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad-oil  or 
liquid  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  vinegar,  frying-fat,  frying  batter 
(see  p.  882),  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Wash  the  brains  in  salt  and  water,  then  put  them  into  a 
saucepan,  with  cold  water  to  cover,  a  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar,  a 
little  salt,  and  boil  for  5  minutes.  Let  them  remain  in  cold  water  until 
cold,  then  drain  well,  cut  into  neat  pieces,  and  sprinkle  over  them  the 
oil,  parsley,  shallot,  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  and  a  little  salt  and 
pepper.  Keep  them  in  this  marinade  for  £  a&  hour,  turning  them 
2  or  3  times.  Have  the  batter  ready,  coat  each  piece  carefully,  and 
try  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  in  a  folded 
serviette,  garnished  with  fried  parsley.  If  preferred,  tomato  or 
piquante  sauce  may  accompany  this  dish. 

Time. — To  fry  the  fritters,  from  7  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d., 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — See  Chapter  XV.,  pages  43  8  and  439,  for  other  methods  of  cooking  brains. 

2824.—  CHICKEN    LEGS,    STUFFED.       (Fr.— Cuisses 
de  Poulet  farcis.) 

Ingredients. — 2  legs  of  a  chicken,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped 
cooked  ham  or  tongue,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  *  a  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs, 
the  yolk  of  i  egg,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  oiled  butt'  red  toast, 

pig's  caul  (or  4  rashers  of  bacon),  salt  and  pepper,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Divide  each  leg  in  half,  remove  all  skin  and  the  drums; 
score  the  flesh  deeply,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  baste  well  with 
the    oiled   butter.      Mix   the    ham,   breadcrumbs,    parsley   and    herbs 
together,  add  the  butter  used  for  basting  the  legs,  a  liberal  seasoning 
of  salt  and  pepper,  and  bind  with  the  yolk  of  the  egg.     Spread  the 
evenly  over  the  pieces  of  chicken,  enclose  them  in  well  washed  and  dried 
caul,  or,  failing  this,  use  rashers  of  bacon,  and  secure  them  with  siring. 
Brush  them  over  with  white  of  egg,  sprinkle  lightly  with  brown  bread- 


1228  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

crumbs,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  from  25  to  35  minutes, 
basting  occasionally  with  hot  butter  or  fat.  Serve  on  round  or  oval 
shaped  croutons  of  hot,  well-buttered  toast. 

Time. — To  bake  the  legs,  from  25  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2825.— CLAM     CHOWDER.     (An     American     Dish.) 

Ingredients. — 50  clams,  \  a  Ib.  of  ham  or  bacon,  8  water-biscuits,  2 
medium  sized  onions  coarsely-chopped,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Clams  are  a  bivalvular  shell-fish,  extensively  used  in 
American  cookery,  and  to  some  extent  on  the  Cornish  and  Devonshire 
coasts,  where  they  are  found.  Soyer  declared  that  their  flavour  was 
superior  to  that  of  the  oyster.  Wash  the  clams  in  several  waters, 
pit  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  water  to  protect  the  bottom 
of  the  pan,  and  as  soon  as  the  shells  begin  to  open,  take  out  the  clams 
and  strain,  and  preserve  the  liquor  which  runs  from  the  shells.  Pound 
or  crush  the  biscuits  to  a  fine  powder,  fry  the  bacon  or  ham,  and  cut 
it  into  dice  ;  mix  together  the  herbs,  parsley,  a  small  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan 
with  bacon,  add  a  thin  layer  of  onion,  sprinkle  with  powdered  biscuit 
aid  seasoning,  and  on  the  top  place  about  a  quarter  of  the  clams. 
Repeat  until  the  materials  are  used,  then  pour  in  the  liquor  from  the 
clim  shells,  and  as  much  boiling  water  as  will  barely  cover  the  whole. 
Cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for  about  i£  hours.  Serve  in  a  deep 
dish,  and,  if  liked,  flavour  the  gravy  with  a  little  mushroom  ketchup, 
or  some  cruet  sauce.  There  are  numerous  variations  of  this  dish; 
salt  pork  frequently  replaces  the  ham;  veal  may  be  used  in  addition 
to  ham  or  pork,  and  a  tin  of  tomatoes  is  by  many  considered  a  great 
improvement. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  from  August  to  March. 

2826.— CODFISH    PIE.     (Fr.— Pate   de    Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  cod,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-shredded  raw  or 
cooked  ham  or  bacon,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  paste  No.  1666,  or  mashed 
potato. 

Method. — Boil  the  cod  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  which  afterwards 
strain,  and  reduce  by  rapid  boiling  to  £  of  a  pint.  Remove  the  skin 
and  bones,  and  divide  the  fish  into  large  flakes,  mix  lightly  into  it 
the  ham  and  parsley,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  the  butter 


BREAKFAST    DISHES  1229 

in  a  stevvpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  liquor  in  which  the  fish  was 
cooked,  boil  for  5  minutes,  and  season  to  taste.  Place  the  fish  mixture 
in  a  well-greased  pie-dish  in  layers,  and  moisten  each  layer  with  the 
prepared  sauce.  Cover  with  a  thin  crust  of  paste  (see  Veal  Pie,  No. 
789),  or  mashed  potato  like  Shepherd's  Pie,  No.  1069.  Bake  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven  for  about  £  an  hour,  or  until  the  paste  is  sufficiently 
cooked  and  nicely  browned,  and  serve  hot,  or  re-heat  at  the  time  of 
serving. 

Time. — About  i   hour.      Average  Cost,  is.  6d.   to    is.   lod.      Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.      Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

2827.— COD'S  ROE,    CROQUETTES    OF.     (Fr.— Cro- 
quettes de  Laitance  de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cod's  roe,  ±  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i   dessertpoonful  of  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  mashed  potato,  i  tabK •- 
spoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  pai> 
|  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  mixed  herbs,  2  eggs,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Boil  the  roe  as  in  the  following  recipe,  and  when  cold  chop 
it  coarsely.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallot  slightly, 
stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put 
in  the  potato,  i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  the  roe,  parsley,  he: 
and  i  ?££.  Season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  stir  over  the  fire  until  the 
mixture  becomes  thoroughly  hot  and  the  egg  sufficiently  cooked,  then 
spread  on  a  plate  to  cool.  When  ready  to  use,  shape  the  croquettes 
in  the  form  of  corks  or  balls,  brush  them  over  with  beaten  egg,  cover 
with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Drain 
and  serve  garnished  with  fried  par- 
Time. — About  ^  an  hour  from  cooked  roe.  Average  Cost,  is. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

2828.— COD'S  ROE,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Fritot  de  Laitance 
de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. — 1|  Ibs.  of  cod's  roe,  i  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar,  i  small 
onion,  6  peppercorns,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
.  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Well  wash  the  roe  in  salt  and  water,  then  put  it  into  a 
'.pan  with  the  onion  sliced,  vinegar,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  boiling 
water  to  cover,  and  simmer  gently  for  about  i£  hours.  When  cold, 
cut  into  thick  slices,  coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot 
Lit  in  a  frying-pan,  or  in  a.  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  until  nicely  browned. 
Drain  well,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  in  win- 


1236  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2829.— COD'S   ROE,    NORFOLK  STYLE.     (Fr.— Lai- 
tance  de  Cabillaud  a  la  Norfolk.) 

Ingredients.— i \  Ibs.  of  cod's  roe,  i£  pints  of  milk,  \\  ozs.  of  butter, 
1£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  \  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  anchovy,  i  small 
onion  sliced,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  6  peppercorns, 
vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  roe  well  in  salt  and  water,  then  put  it  into  a 
stewpan  with  i  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
boiling  water  to  barely  cover,  and  simmer  gently  for  f  of  an  hour. 
Have  ready  the  milk  boiling  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  onion,  bouquet- 
girni,  peppercorns,  and  the  roe,  previously  well  drained.  Simmer 
gsntly  for  i  hour,  then  turn  into  a  basin  and  put  aside  until  cold.  When 
ready  to  use,  cut  the  roe  into  thick  slices;  melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
add  the  flour,  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  strain  and  pour  in  the  milk, 
and  stir  until  it  boils.  Now  add  the  lemon-juice,  parsley,  anchovy 
essence,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  put  in  the  slices  of  roe,  baste  them 
well  with  the  sauce,  and  as  soon  as  they  are  thoroughly  hot,  then  serve. 

Time. — From  2  to  24-  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

2830.— COD  STEAKS.     (Fr.— Tranches  de  Cabillaud.) 

Ingredients. — 2  slices  of  cod  i  to  i£  inches  thick,  i  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oiled  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Wash  and  thoroughly  dry  the  fish.  Mix  together  the  flour, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  coat  the  fish  completely  with  the  mixture.  Have 
ready  in  a  frying-pan  a  good  layer  of  hot  fat,  put  in  the  fish  and  fry 
until  crisp  and  well  browned  on  both  sides.  Meanwhile  melt  the 
butter,  add  to  it  the  lemon- juice,  and,  if  liked,  a  little  finely-chopped 
parsley,  or  omit  both  lemon- juice  and  parsley,  and  serve  simply  with 
oiled  butter.  When  more  convenient  the  fish  may  be  baked  in  the 
oven,  but  it  lacks  the  crispness  obtained  by  frying. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  lod.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

2831.— COD   STEAKS,    CARDINAL    STYLE. 

(Fr. — Tranches  de  Cabillaud  a  la  Cardinal.) 

Ingredients. — 2  slices  of  cod  i£  to  i£  inches  thick,  2  tomatoes,  i£  ozs. 
of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  a  little  finely-chopped 
parsley,  a  few  drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  wipe  the  slices  of  fish  place  them  in  a  baking- 
dish,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  On  the  top  of  the  fish  place 
\  an  oz.  of  butter  in  small  pieces,  cover  with  a  greased  paper,  and  bake 


BREAKFAST    DISHES  1231 

from  20  to  25  minutes.  While  they  are  cooking,  melt  the  remaining 
oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  and  boil  well. 
Pass  the  tomatoes  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  add  the  puree  to  the  con- 
tents of  the  stewpan.  When  the  fish  is  done,  remove  it  to  a  hot  dish, 
strain  the  liquor  from  it,  and  add  it  to  the  sauce.  Season  to  taste, 
add  carmine  or  cochineal  until  a  bright-red  colour  is  obtained,  and 
pour  it  over  the  fish.  Sprinkle  on  a  little  parsley  and  serve. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

2832.— COLD  MEAT  KEDGEREE. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  coarsely-chopped  cooked  meat,  4  ozs.  of  cooked 
rice,  2  hard-boiled  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  finely-chopped  shallot  or 
small  onion,  \-  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  nutmeg,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  the  rice  as  forcun  I&.  2973),  chop  the  whites 

of  the  eggs  coarsely,  rub  the  yolks  through  a  wire  sieve  and  keep  them 
warm.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  slightly  fry  the  shallot  or  onions, 
add  the  meat  and  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  put  in  the  rice,  the 
whites  of  eggs,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  season  well  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot,  then  arrange  in  a. 
pyramidal  form  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  the  yolks  of  eggs  and 
parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  jd.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
people.  Sufficient  or  a  dish.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2833.— CORN  MEAL  RELISH. 

Ingredients. — i  can  of  Indian  corn,  2  eggs,  flour,  anchovy  essence, 
cayenne  or  paprika,  frying- fat  or  oil. 

Method. — Drain  the  corn  well,  and  pound  it  finely,  moistening  it 
gradually  with  2  eggs.  Season  rather  highly  with  cayenne  or  paprika. 
and  add  anchovy-essence  to  taste.  Form  the  preparation  into  qiu-- 
nelles  with  two  eggspoons,  roll  them  lightly  in  seasoned  flour,  and  fry 
in  hot  fat  or  oil  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  at  once. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2834.— CROQUETTES  OF  CHICKEN,  TURKEY,  OR 
VEAL.  (Fr.— Croquettes  de  Volaille,  Dinde, 
ou  Veau.) 

Ingredients.  \  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  chicken,  turkey  or  veal,  2  ozs. 
of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham  or  bacon,  \  pint  of  stock,  4  ozs.  of  coarse 


1232  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

grained  Florador,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  finely-chopped  shallot  or  very  small 
onion,  salt  and  pepper,  2  eggs,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Bring  the  stock  to  boiling  point,  sprinkle  in  the  Florador, 
stir  and  cook  until  boiling,  then  simmer  for  10  minutes,  stirring  occa- 
sionally. Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallot  until  lightly 
browned,  add  the  chicken  and  ham,  stir  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes. 
Now  put  in  the  Florador  and  stock,  add  i  egg,  season  to  taste,  stir 
over  the  fire  for  about  5  minutes  to  allow  the  eggs  to  thicken,  then  spread 
on  a  plate  to  cool.  When  ready  to  use,  shape  the  mixture  in  the  form 
of  corks  or  balls,  coat  them  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot 
fat  until  golden-brown.  Drain  well,  and  serve  hot  garnished  with  fried 
parsley. 

Time. — 3  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  meat.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2835.— CROQUETTES     OF     HAM     AND     RICE. 

(Fr. — Croquettes  de  Jambon  au  Riz.) 

Ingredients. — $•  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  cooked 
rice,  i  oz.a  of  butter,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces), 
i  finely-chopped  shallot,  powdered  sage,  fried  parsley,  salt  and  pepper, 
i  yolk  of  egg,  i  whole  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Dry  the  rice  well  after  cooking  it,  and  chop  it  finely.  Fry 
the  shallot  in  the  butter  until  lightly  browned,  then  add  the  ham,  rice, 
and  a  good  pinch  of  sage,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  over 
the  fire  until  hot.  Now  put  in  the  white  sauce  and  the  yolk  of  egg 
mixed  together,  stir  until  the  preparation  thickens,  then  spread  it 
on  a  plate.  When  cool  shape  into  balls  or  corks,  coat  with  egg  and 
breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well, 
and  serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — From  2  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2836.— CURRIED  EGGS.     (Fr.— GEufs  au  Kari.) 

Ingredients. — 4  hard-boiled  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  milk,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder,  i  teaspoonful  of  flour,  i  finely- 
chopped  small  onion,  lemon-juice,  salt,  4  ozs.  of  cooked  rice. 

Method. — Prepare  the  rice  (see  No.  2973),  shell  the  eggs  and  cut  them 
in  quarters.  Fry  the  onion  slightly  in  the  hot  butter,  sprinkle  in  the 
flour  and  curry-powder,  and  cook  slowly  for  5  or  6  minutes.  Add  the 
stock  or  milk,  season  with  salt  and  lemon-juice,  and  simmer  gently 
for  \  an  hour.  Then  put  in  the  eggs,  and  let  them  remain  until  thor- 
oughly heated,  and  serve.  The  rice  may  be  arranged  as  a  border,  or 
served  separately. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  9d,  to  is.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 


BREAKFAST    DISHES  1233 

2837.— CURRIED  EGGS.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  curry- 
powder,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  finely-chopped  small  onion,  buttered 
toast,  lemon-juice,  salt. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  for  2  or  3  minutes, 
sprinkle  in  the  curry-powder  and  let  it  cook  for  a  few  minutes  in  the 
butter,  stirring  meanwhile.  Beat  the  eggs  slightly,  season  them  with 
salt,  add  the  milk,  pour  the  mixture  into  the  stewpan,  and  stir  until  the 
eggs  begin  to  set.  Have  ready  some  squares  of  well-buttered  toast, 
pile  the  egg  preparation  lightly  on  them,  sprinkle  with  lemon-juice, 
and  serve  at  once. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  gd.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  4  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2838.— CURRIED  FISH.     (Fr.— Poisson  au  Kari.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cooked  fish,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  level  dessertspoonful  of  curry-powder,  i  level  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
i  finely-chopped  small  onion,  lemon-juice,  salt. 

Method. — Divide  the  fish  into  rather  large  flakes.  Heat  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  till  lightly  browned,  sprinkle  in  the  curry- 
powder  and  flour,  and  when  smoothly  mixed,  add  the  milk  and  boil 
for  5  or  6  minutes.  Season  to  taste,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice, 
and  serve  plainly  or  accompanied  by  boiled  rice,  as  preferred. 

Time. —  1 5  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  gd.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  2 
or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2839.— CURRIED  LOBSTER.  (Fr.— Homard    au 

Kari.) 

Ingredients. —  i  tin  of  lobster,  2  ozs.  of  Patna  rice,  |  a  pint  of  milk, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  curry-powder,  i  teaspoonful  of  flour,  i  small  onion, 
lemon-juice,  salt. 

Method. — Prepare,  boil  and  dry  the  rice  carefully.  Melt  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly  browned,  add  the  flou: 
curry-powder,  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  pour  in  the  milk  and  bo.l 
for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  meanwhile.  Divide  the  lobster  into  about 
8  pieces,  put  them  with  the  rice  into  the  curry-sauce,  add  lemon-juice 
and  salt  to  taste,  let  the  stewpan  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the 
contents  are  thoroughly  hot,  then  serve. 

Time.— 45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  3  or 
4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2840.— DARIOLS  OF  COLD  MEAT. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  cooked  meat,  i  tablespoonful  of  mashed  potato, 
i  tablespoonful  of  white  breadcrumbs,  ^  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  milk, 


1234  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

\  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg,  i  finely-chopped  shallot  or  small  onion,  \  a 
teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
mixed  herbs,  red  panurette  or  browned  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper, 
nutmeg,  \  of  a  pint  of  good  gravy  or  brown  sauce  (see  Gravies  and 
Sauces). 

Method. — Butter  6  dariol  moulds,  and  coat  them  thickly  with  red 
panurette  or  browned  breadcrumbs,  chop  the  meat  finely.  Melt  the 
butter  inastewTpan,fry  the  shallot  or  onion  until  well  browned,  add  the 
stock  and  let  it  boil,  then  put  in  the  meat,  potato,  white  breadcrumbs, 
parsley,  herbs,  egg,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  a  liberal  seasoning 
of  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  the  ingredients  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly 
hot,  then  put  the  preparation  into  the  moulds  and  bake  from  15  to  20 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  or,  if  more  convenient,  they  may  be 
steamed.  Serve  hot,  with  the  gravy  poured  round  or  sent  to  table 
in  a  separate  vessel. 

Time. — From  35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  Sufficient 
for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2841.— DEVILLED  GAME.     (Fr.— Gibier  a  la  Diable.) 

Ingredients. — Cooked  game  of  any  kind,  oiled  butter,  brown  bread- 
crumbs, watercress,  lemon-juice,  cayenne,  salt,  paprika  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  all  the  skin  and  bone,  cut  the  flesh  into  neat 
slices,  and  season  rather  highly  with  lemon- juice,  cayenne,  salt,  and 
paprika  pepper.  Now  coat  them  well  with  oiled  butter,  cover  lightly 
with  browned  breadcrumbs,  and  place  them  in  a  quick  oven  until  they 
become  thoroughly  hot.  Arrange  them  in  a  circle  on  a  lace-edged  dish- 
paper,  fill  the  centre  with  watercress  seasoned  with  salt  and  lemon- 
juice,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  pd.  to  is.  Seasonable  from 
September  to  February. 

2842.— DEVILLED    CHICKEN.       (Fr.— Poulet    a    la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — For  the  devilled  butter:  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful 
of  chutney,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence  or  paste,  \  a  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice,  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne.  The  remains  of  a  cold  roast  or 
boiled  chicken,  butter  or  frying-fat,  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Knead  the  ingredients  for  devilled  butter  together  on  a 
plate,  and  rub  them  through  a  fine  sieve.  Cut  the  chicken  into  neat 
joints,  remove  all  skin,  and  as  much  bone  as  possible,  fry  them  in  hot 
butter  or  fat  until  well  browned,  then  sprinkle  with  salt.  Spread  each 
piece  thickly  with  the  prepared  butter,  garnish  with  crisply  fried 
parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  4d.,  exclusive  of  the 
chicken.  Seasonable  at  anv  time. 


BREAKFAST    DISHES  1235 

2843.— DRIED  HADDOCK  AND  TOMATOES. 

(Fr. — Merluche  fume  a  la  Tomate.) 

Ingredients. —  i  small  dried  haddock,  2  tomatoes  sliced,  i  finely- 
chopped  small  onion,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  4  ozs.  of  cooked  rice. 

Method. — Prepare  the  rice  as  for  curry  (see  Xo.  2973).  Cook  the 
haddock  for  10  minutes  in  the  oven  in  a  tin  containing  a  little  boiling 
water,  the  steam  of  which  keeps  the  surface  of  the  fish  moist,  then 
separate  it  into  large  flakes.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the 
onion  without  browning,  put  in  the  fish,  sliced  tomatoes  and  parsley, 
season  to  taste,  and  stir  gently  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  heated. 
Serve  in  a  border  of  rice,  or,  if  preferred,  substitute  a  border  of  mashed 
poiato. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  /d.  or  8d.  Sufficient  for  2  or 
3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2844.— EGG    CROQUETTES.      (Fr.— Croquettes    aux 
GEufs.) 

Ingredients. — 4  hard-boiled  eggs,  6  coarscly-chopivd  j>  nush- 

rooms,  i  oz.  of  butter,  -\  an  oz.  of  flour,  4-  a  gill  of  milk,  i  raw  egg,  coarse 
grained  Florador  or  breadcrumbs,  nutmeg,  salt   and  pepper,   i: 
fat.  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Chop  the  eggs  finely  or  rub  them  through  a  wire 
Fry  the  mushrooms  lightly  in  the  hot  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the 
milk,  and  boil  well.  Now  put  in  the  eggs,  season  to  taste,  add  a  pinch 
of  nutmeg,  mix  well  over  the  fire,  then  spread  on  a  plate  to  cool.  When 
ready  to  use  shape  into  balls  or*  corks,  coat  carefully  with  egg,  cover 
with  Florador  or  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  golden-brown. 
Drain  well,  and  serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — From  2  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  4  or 
5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2845.— EGGS,  BOILED.    (See  Boiled  Eggs,  No.  3035, 
and  Coddled  Eggs,  No.  3206.) 

2846.— EGGS   BUTTERED,    INDIAN   STYLE. 

(Fr. — CEufs  brouilles  a  1'Indienne.) 

Ingredients.— 3  hard-boiled  eggs,  2  raw  eggs,  }  an  oz.  of  butter,  curry- 
powder,  salt  and  pepper,  browned  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Cut  the  hard-boiled  eggs  across  into  rather  thick  slico, 
place  them  in  a  well-but tert-d  i^r.ain  dish,  or  china  baking-dish,  in 
which  tliov  ni;i\  d,  and  ..prinkle  over  them  about  £  a  teaspoonful 

of  curry-powder  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne.  Beat  the  raw  eggs 


1236         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

slightly,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  them  into  the  dish. 
Cover  the  surface  lightly  with  browned  breadcrumbs,  put  bits  of  butter 
here  and  there,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  10  minutes. 
Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  pd.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2847.— EGGS,     FRICASSEE     OF.          (Fr.— Fricassee 
d'CEufs.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sauce 
(see  Sauces),  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  %  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  small 
triangular  croutons  of  fried  or  toasted  bread,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  eggs  for  1 5  minutes,  let  them  remain  in  cold  water 
until  perfectly  cold,  then  cut  them  across  and  lengthwise,  thus  dividing 
each  egg  into  4  pieces.  Remove  the  yolks,  rub  them  through  a  wire 
sieve,  and  keep  hot  between  2  plates.  Fry  the  shallot  lightly  in  hot 
butter,  add  the  sauce,  cream,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  season  to  taste,  and 
when  hot  put  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Shake  gently  over  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  arrange  the  fricassee  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle 
with  a  little  parsley,  place  the  yolk  of  egg  tastefully  round  the  base, 
and  surround  the  dish  with  the  fried  croutons. 

Time. — 35  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2848.— EGGS  IN  GRAVY.     (Fr.— CEufs  au  Jus.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  good  gravy,  walnut  ketchup 
or  some  cruet  sauce,  browned  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  gravy,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  few 
drops  of  ketchup,  Worcester,  or  whatever  may  be  liked,  and  put  it 
into  4  china  souffle  cases.  Stand  these  in  a  deep  baking  tin  containing 
boiling  water  to  half  their  depth,  and  let  them  remain  on  the  stove 
or  in  the  oven  for  2  or  3  minutes.  Now  carefully  break  an  egg  into 
each  case,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle  lightly  with  browne^ 
breadcrumbs,  and  cook  until  the  eggs  are  set.  Serve  them  in  the 
cases. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  7 d.  to  pd.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2849.— EGGS     POACHED     WITH     HAM. 

(Fr. — CEufs  a  la  Dreux.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  3  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham,  4  rounds  of 
buttered  toast,  the  size  of  the  eggs  when  cooked,  4  small  teaspoonfuls 
of  cream  or  milk,  butter,  i  teaspoom'jil  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 


BREAKFAST    DM1 1- 

Method.— Add  the  parsley  and  a  little  pepper  to  the  ham.  Coat  4 
small  deep  patty  pans  thickly  with  butter,  over  which  sprinkle  the  ham 
preparation,  then  add  an  egg,  breaking  them  carefully  so  as  to  keep  the 
yolks  whole.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne,  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream,  and  place  on  the  top  a  morsel  of  butter.  Put  the  tins  in  the 
oven,  in  a  s.uiu-  pan.  surround  them  to  half  their  depth  with  boiling 
water,  and  poach  until  the  white  is  firm.  When  ready,  turn  the  eggs 
carefully  out  of  the  tins  on  to  the  toast,  and  st 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for 
4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2850.— EGGS      POACHED      IN     TOMATO      SAUCE. 

(Fr. — CEufs  poches  a  la  Tomate.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  4  rounds  of  buttered  toast,  the  size  of  the  eggs 
when  poached,  $  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  No.  281,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — When  the  tomato  sauce  is  quite  boiling,  break  the  eggs 

ly  into  it  and  poach  until  the  white  is  set,  basting  them  well 

with  the  sauce  during  the  process.     When  done,  remove  the  eggs  care- 

iully  with  a  slier    trim  to  a  good  shape,  and  place  them  on  the 

Arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  season  the  sauce  to  taste,  pour  it  over  the  eggs, 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  ;>d.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2851.— EGGS  WITH  BLACK  BUTTER.      (Fr.— CEufs 
frits  au  Beurre  Noir.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  4  rounds  of  buttered  toast,  about  3  inches  in 
ter,  i  oz.  of  butter,  anchovy  paste,  i  dessertspoonful  of  tarragon 

tie  chopped  pars! 
Method. — Heat    the  butter   in   a   casserole  (a  fireproof  earthenware 

;hc  eggs  gently  into  it,  and  fry  until  set.     Ii 

the  rounds  of  toast,  spread  them  with  anchovy  paste,  dish  them  and 

hem  hot.     Trim  the  eggs  to  a  round  shape,  and  place  them  on 

the  toast.     Replace  the  casserole  on  the  stove,  and  cook  the  butter 

until  it  becomes  nut-brown,  then  add  the  vinegar,  and  a  good  pinch  of 

y,  boil  rapidly  for  2  or  3  minutes,  pour  over  the  eggs,  and  s< 
Time. — From   10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,   is.  to  is.  3d.      Suffi- 
cient for  4  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2852.— EGGS  WITH  HAM.     (Fr.— CEufs  au  Jambon.^ 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham, 
nful  of  1  tablespoonfuls  of  while  or 

ice  or  gravy,  J  an  oz.  of  butter,  salt,  pepper. 


1238  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Butter  6  china  souffle  cases.  Season  the  ham  with  pepper, 
moisten  with  the  sauce  or  gravy,  add  a  few  drops  of  mushroom  ketchup 
or  any  cruet  sauce,  and  put  the  preparation  into  the  cases.  Now  add 
the  eggs,  taking  care  to  keep  the  yolks  whole,  and  sprinkle  on  a  little 
salt  and  pepper.  Cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  breadcrumbs,  place  small 
pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  eggs  are 
set,  and  serve  them  in  the  cases. 

Time. — From  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2853.— EGGS  WITH  HERBS.   (See  Savoury  Eggs,  No. 
2902,   and  Omelette  with  Herbs,  No.  2822.) 

2854.— EGGS   WITH    PARMESAN.      (Fr.—  CEufs   au 
Parmesan.)         (See   Swiss   Eggs.) 

2855.— EGGS    WITH    TONGUE.         (Fr.— Langue    de 
Bceuf  aux  QEufs.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  4  slices  of  cooked  tongue,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls 
of  good  gravy,  a  piece  of  meat  glaze  the  size  of  a  small  walnut,  lemon- 
juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  slices  of  tongue  into  a  saute-panor  stewpan,  with  the 
gravy  and  glaze,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  season  to  taste.  Poach  the 
eggs  in  boiling  water,  slightly  salted  and  flavoured  with  lemon-juice, 
and  trim  them  to  a  round  shape.  Place  the  eggs  on  the  slices  of  tongue, 
and  trim  the  edges  if  necessary,  arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the  gravy 
over,  and  serve. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  is.,  exclusive  of  the 
tongue.  Sufficient  for  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2856.— FILLETS  OF  BLOATERS.   (See  Bloater  Fritters, 
No.  2822.) 

2857.— FILLETS   OF  SALMON   FRIED   IN   BATTER. 

(A  Jewish  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ib.  of  salmon,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
|  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  |  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  mixed  herbs,  flour,  frying-batter  (see  p.  882),  frying-oil, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  salmon  into  pieces  about  2  inches  square,  and 
rather  more  than  -J-  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  roll  them  in  flour  seasoned 
with  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Make  the  batter,  add  to  it  the  onion, 
parsley,  herbs,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  pepper,  dip  in  the  pieces  of 


BREAKFAST    DISHES  1239 

fish,  and,  if  available,  fry  them  in  a  deep  pan  of  hot  oil;  if  not,  heat  a 
good  layer  of  oil  in  a  saute-pan  or  frying-pan,  and  cook  the  fish  until 
nicely  browned  on  both  sid^s.  Serve  cold. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to  August. 

2858.— FILLETED      SMOKED      HADDOCK. 

(Fr. — Filets  de  Merluche  fumee.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  smoked  haddock  or  £  a  large  one  (pre- 
ferably the  latter),  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  pepper,  lemon- juice. 

Method. — Cook  the  haddock  for  10  minutes  in  the  oven  in  a  tin  con- 
taining a  little  water,  remove  the  skin  and  bones,  and  divide  the  fish 
into  fillets  of  a  convenient  size  for  serving.  Have  the  butter  ready 
melted  in  a  baking-dish,  put  in  the  fish  and  the  parsley,  season  with 
pepper,  baste  well  with  butter,  and  cook  for  10  minutes  in  the  oven, 
repeating  the  basting  at  short  intervals.  Place  the  fish  carefully  on  a 
hot  dish,  add  a  little  lemon-juice  to  the  sauce,  pour  it  over  the  fish, 
and  serve. 

Time.— Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  anv  \.r.\ 

2859.— FISH  FRITTERS.      (See  Bloater  Fritters,    No. 
2822,  also  No.  2866.) 

2860.—  FISH  KEDGEREE.  (See  Kedgeree,  No.  2873*) 
2861.— FISH  PIE.  (Fr.— Pate  de  Poisson.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cooked  cod  or  other  white  fish,  4  ozs.  of  finely- 
chopped  suet,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  mashed  potato,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
white  bread  crumbs,  2  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  mUk  (about),  browned  bread- 
crumbs, butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Free  the  fish  from  skin  and  bone  and  chop  it  coarsely, 
add  the  suet,  potato,  white  breadcrumbs  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt 
and  pepper.  Now  stir  in  the  eggs  with  as  much  milk  as  will  form  the 
whole  into  a  stiff  batter,  and  turn  the  mixture  into  a  well-buttered 
baking-dish  suitable  for  sending  to  table.  Cover  the  surface  lightly 
with  brown  breadcrumbs,  and  put  small  bits  of  butter  here  and  there,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  i  hour,  or  until  the  mixture  is  set. 
Serve  hot  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  cooked,  or  if  prepared  overnight 
re-heat  at  the  time  of  serving. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  one  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1240  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2862.— FRICASSEE    OF    FOWL.          (See      Chicken 
Fricasseed,  No.  1164.) 

2863.— GATEAU  OF  COLD  MEAT. 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  Ib.  of  cooked  meat,  £  a  Ib.  of  mashed  potato, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  white  breadcrumbs,  ^  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  milk, 
|  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg,  i  finely-chopped  shallot  or  small  onion,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed 
herbs,  red  panurette  or  browned  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  \  a  pint 
of  good  gravy  or  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces  and  Gravies). 

Method. — Chop  the  meat  finely,  butter  a  plain  mould  or  basin,  and 
coat  it  thickJy  with  panurette  (grated  rusks)  or  browned  breadcrumbs. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallot  or  onion  until  well-browned, 
add  the  stock,  and  when  boiled  put  in  the  potato,  meat,  white  bread- 
crumbs, parsley,  herbs,  eggs,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper. 
Stir  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot,  then  turn  into  the  prepared 
mould,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  30  to  40  minutes,  or  until 
the  mixture  is  firm  enough  to  be  turned  out  of  the  mould.  Serve  hot, 
with  the  gravy  poured  round  the  dish  or  handed  separately. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  meat  and 
sauce.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2864.— GRILLED  KIDNEY.     (See  Recipes  Nos.  1012 
and  1013.) 

2865.— GRILLED     MACKEREL.      (Fr.—  Maquereau 
Grille.) 

Ingredients. — i  mackerel.  For  the  marinade  (or  pickle):  i£  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salad-oil  or  oiled  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  •£  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Wipe  or  wash,  clean  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly.  Score 
the  back  with  a  sharp  knife,  pour  the  marinade  over,  and  let  it  remain 
for  i  hour,  turning  it  2  or  3  times.  Drain  well,  and  grill  over  a  clear 
fire  from  12  to  15  minutes,  according  to  size.  Or,  if  more  convenient, 
cover  it  lightly  with  brown  breadcrumbs,  add  a  few  small  bits  of 
butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  20  minutes.  Serve  with 
parsley,  Hollandaise  or  other  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — From  12  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,6d.  to  is.,  according  to 
size.  Sufficient,  i  small  mackerel  for  2  persons.  Seasonable  from 
February  to  October, 


BREAKFAST  DISHES  1241 

2866.— HADDOCK      AND      OYSTER      FRITTERS. 

(Fr. — Beignets  de  Merluche  fum6e.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  smoked  haddock,  6  oysters, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  essence  of  anchovy, 
salt  and  pepper,  cayenne,  frying-batter  (see  p.  882),  frying-fat,  fried 
parsley. 

Method. — Pour  boiling  water  over  the  fish,  let  it  remain  for  2  or  3 
minutes,  then  dry  well,  remove  all  skin  and  bone,  and  chop  it  finely. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk  and  boil 
for  3  or  4  minutes,  stirring  meanwhfle.  Season  to  taste,  add  a  few 
drops  of  anchovy  essence,  put  in  the  fish,  stir  over  the  fire  until  well 
mixed,  then  spread  on  a  plate  to  cool.  Beard  the  oysters  and  preserve 
the  liquor.  When  cold,  divide  the  mixture  into  6  portions,  form  into 
balls  enclosing  an  oyster  in  each,  dip  them  in  the  prepared  batter, 
and  fry  them  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well,  garnish  with 
fried  parsley,  and  serve  with  a  suitable  sauce,  made  from  fish  stock 
obtained  from  simmering  the  trimmings  of  the  haddock,  to  which 
should  be  added  the  oyster  liquor. 

Time. —  il  hours.     Average    Cost,    is.    3d.    to    is.    6d.      Sufflcier 
6  fritters.     Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

2867.— HAM  AND  EGG  TARTLETS. 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham,  2  < 
white  breadcrumbs,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  $  a  gill  of  milk,  red  panurette 
or  browned  breadcrumbs,  nutmeg,  pepper. 

Method.  Mix  the  ham  and  breadcrumbs  together,  add  a  good  pinch 
of  nutmeg,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  gradually 
with  milk  until  a  smooth  stiff  paste  is  obtained.  Butter  6  patty  pan^. 
coat  them  thickly  with  panurette  or  browned  breadcrumbs,  and  line 
them  with  the  meat  preparation.  Break  an  egg  carefully  into  each  one, 
sprinkle  lightly  with  panurette  or  breadcrumbs,  and  add  2  or  3  very  small 
bits  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  the  eggs  are  set,  remove 
carefully  from  the  tins,  and  serve  hot. 

Time.— From  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient 
for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  t  ime. 

2868.— HAM  RAMAKINS. 

Ingredients.     5   ozs.   of  finely-chopped  lean  cooked     am,  4  eggs,   i 

poonful  of  cream  or  milk,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  : 
herbs,  made  mustard,  Krona  pepper,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.— Beat  2  whole  eggs  and  2  yolks  of  eggs  slightly,  add  the 
cream,  herbs,  a  small  \  mustardspoonful  of  mustard,  salt  and 

china  ramakin  cases,  fill  them,  rather  more  than  three-quarters  full, 


1242  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

with  the  mixture,  and  bake  until  set.  Meanwhile  beat  the  remaining 
2  whites  of  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  season  with  a  little  salt,  and  pile  roughly 
above  the  level  of  the  cases.  Sprinkle  with  Krona  pepper,  replace  in  the 
oven,  and  bake  until  the  white  of  egg  is  crisp  and  lightly  browned. 
Serve  hot. 

Time.— Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2869.— HERRINGS  BROILED  WITH  MUSTARD 
SAUCE.  (Fr. —  Harengs  au  naturel,  sauce 
Moutarde.) 

Ingredients. — 4  fresh  herrings,  i  oz.  of  butter,  4-  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  mustard,  |  of  a  pint  of  water,  $  of  a  pint  of  vinegar,  i  finely- 
chopped  onion. 

Method. — Fry  the  onion  in  the  butter  until  lightly  browned,  put  in 
the  flour  and  mustard,  add  the  vinegar  and  water,  stir  until  boiling, 
and  simmer  gently  for  15  minutes.  Wipe  and  dry  the  herrings,  remove 
the  heads,  and  score  them  across  the  back  and  sides,  but  avoid  cutting 
the  roe.  Sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  grill  over  or  in  front 
of  a  clear  fire  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Place  on  a  hot  dish,  strain  the 
sauce  round,  and  serve. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  from  July  to  February. 

2870.— HERRINGS  STUFFED  WITH  SHRIMPS. 

(Fr. — Harengs  farcis  aux  Crevettes.) 

Ingredients. — 4  fresh  herrings,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  picked  shrimps, 
i  tablespoonful  of  white  breadcrumbs,  essence  of  anchovy,,  salt  and 
pepper,  cayenne,  i  egg,  brown  breadcrumbs,  butter,  milk. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  herrings,  remove  the  heads,  split  them 
open,  take  away  the  backbone  and  wipe  the  insides  with  soft  paper. 
Soak  the  breadcrumbs  in  a  little  milk,  chop  the  shrimps  finely,  mix  these 
two  together,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  few  drops  of 
anchovy  essence.  Spread  the  preparation  on  the  inside  of  the  herrings, 
roll  them  up  tightly  beginning  at  the  head,  and  fasten  them  with 
skewers.  Brush  them  over  with  egg,  cover  lightly  with  brown  bread- 
crumbs, add  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter,  and  bake  gently  from  30  to 
35  minutes.  Serve  hot  garnished  with  the  roes  (if  any)  grilled. 

Time. — From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  7d.  or  8d.  Sufficient 
for  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  July  to  February. 

287 1. —HUNTING  BREAKFAST  (FRENCH  GAME  PIE 
FOR).  (See  No.  1283.) 


BREAKFAST  DISHES 

2872.—  JOMBALAYAH.       (An      American      Breakfast 
Dish.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  ham,  4  ozs.  of  Patna  rice, 
i  lettuce,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Wash,  blanch,boil,and  dry  the  rice  as  for  curry(se$  No.2973), 
let  it  become  perfectly  cold,  then  stir  it  into  the  ham,  and  season  with 
cayenne  pepper.  Wash  and  dry  the  lettuce,  place  a  layer  of  leaves 
on  a  cold  dish,  pile  the  rice  and  ham  lightly  upon  them,  garnish  with 
the  heart  of  the  lettuce,  and  servo. 

Time. — 2    hours.     Average   Cost,    Sd.     Sufficient    lor    3  or  4    per 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2873.— KEDGEREE,  PAPRIKA.     (Fr.— Kedgeree    au 
Paprika.) 

Ingredients. — 24  picked  small  prawns  or  shrimps,  i|  ozs.  of  butter, 
|  an  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  4  ozs.  of  rice,  i  hard  boiled  egg,  i  pint  of  stock 
(about),  salt,  paprika  pepper,  nutmeg,  watercr 

Method. — Pick,  wash,  blanch,  and  drain  the  rice  well,  cook  it  in  the 
hot  butter  for  a  few  minutes,  then  cover  with  stock,  and  simmer  until 
tender,  adding  more  stock  when  necessary.  When  nearly  done,  cook 
uncovered  to  allow  some  of  the  moisture  to  evaporate,  and  stir  fre- 
quently to  prevent  the  rice  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 
while  put  aside  $  of  the  prawns  for  garnish,  and  chop  the  remainder 
coarsely;  pass  the  yolk  of  the  egg  through  a  win-  sieve,  and  chop  the 
white  finely.  To  the  rice  now  add  sufficient  paprika  pepper  to  give 
a  pale  pink  tint,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  salt  to  taste,  and  as  soon 
as  the  rice  is  perfectly  tender  put  in  the  chopped  prawns,  white  of  egg, 
and  cheese.  When  thoroughly  hot  arrange  on  the  dish  in  a  pyramidal 
form,  garnish  with  the  yolk  of  egg,  prawns  and  watercress,  and  serve 
hot. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  lor  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2874.— KIDNEYS  AND  OYSTERS. 

Ingredients.— Grilled  kidneys  (see  recipes  for  cooking  Sheep's  Kid- 
neys, No.  1012),  oysters,  salt  and  pepper,  c routes. 

Method. — Blanch  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  taking  care  that  they 
are  not  overcooked.  Place  2  or  3  on  the  top  of  each  half  of  grilled 
kidney.  v  ason  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  on  the  croutes. 

Time. — To   blanch    the   oysters,    i    minute.     Average   Cost,   kid: 
3d.    to   40!.    each  ;     oysters,     is.    6d.    to    2s.    '  dozen, 

i  kidney  and  4  or  6  oysters  to  eac  .     Seasonable  from  September 

priX 


1244  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2875.— KIDNEY     TOAST,      MADRAS      STYLE. 

(Fr. — Croutes  de  Rognons  a  la  Madras.) 

Ingredients. — 2  sheep's  kidneys,  4  small  rounds  of  buttered  toast, 
curry-paste,  %  of  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon  rind,  i  egg,  bread- 
crumbs, butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Skin  the  kidneys,  cut  them  in  halves  lengthwise,  run  small 
skewers  through  them  to  keep  them  flat,  and  season  them  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne.  Mix  the  lemon  rind  and  a  little 
salt  and  pepper  with  the  egg,  dip  in  the  kidneys,  and  roll  them  in  bread- 
crumbs. Have  ready  a  little  hot  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  fry  them 
lightly  and  quickly,  cooking  the  cut  side  first.  Trim  the  toast  to  a  size 
slightly  larger  than  half  a  kidney,  spread  with  a  thin  layer  of  curry- 
paste,  dish  the  croutes  upon  them,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  2 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — For  other  recipes  for  cooking  kidneys,  see  Chapter  XIX,  page  589. 

2876.—  KIPPERED  HERRINGS. 

Ingredients. — Kippered  herrings,  butter. 

Method. — If  the  herrings  are  fresh  and  moist,  simply  immerse  them 
for  i  minute  in  hot  water,  but  if  at  all  dry  or  over-smoked,  soak  them 
for  about  I  hour,  being  careful  in  either  case  afterwards  to  wipe  them 
dry.  Rub  the  inner  side  with  butter,  grill  quickly  over  or  in  front  of 
a  clear  fire,  spread  on  a  little  cold  butter,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  broil  the  herrings,  from  3  to  4  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
from  3d.  to  4d.  per  pair.  Allow  i  to  each  person.  Seasonable,  all 
the  year. 

2877.— LOBSTER  CROQUETTES.        (Fr.— Croquettes 
de  Homard.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  lobster  (or  a  good  brand  of  tinned 
lobster),  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  tablespooniul  of 
cream,  i  whole  egg,  i  yolk  of  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne,  panurette 
(grated  rusks)  or  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Chop  the  flesh  of  the  lobster  finely.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  rather  less  than  a  gill  of  cold  water, 
and  boil  well.  Now  put  in  the  lobster,  cream,  a  pinch  of  cayenne, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  stir  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot,  then  add 
the  yolk  of  i  egg.  When  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken  spread  it  on 
a  plate  to  cool,  and  when  ready  to  use  shape  it  in  the  form  of  cutlets 
or  corks.  Brush  these  over  well  with  egg,  coat  with  panurette  (this 
preparation,  which  resembles  exceedingly  fine  red  breadcrumbs,  is  sold 


BREAKFAST    DISHES  1245 

in  packets),  and  fry  a  golden  brown  in  hot  fat.    Drain  well,  arrange  neatly 
on  a  folded  serviette  or  dish  paper,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 
Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Sea- 
sonable at  any  time. 

2878.— MADRAS     FRITTERS.     (Fr.— Beignets     a    la 

Madras.) 

Ingredients. — 20  rounds  of  brown  bread,  i£  inches  in  diameter,  10 
rounds  of  cooked  ham,  i£  inches  in  diameter,  chutney,  butter,  frying- 
batter  (see  p.  882),  frying-fat,  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Spread  butter  on  all  the  rounds  of  brown  bread,  and  add 
to  them  a  layer  of  chutney.  On  the  top  of  this  place  first  the  rounds 
of  ham,  and  then  the  remainder  of  the  bread  and  butter,  pressing  th.- 
whole  lightly  together.  Now  dip  them  into  the  prepared  batter,  ana 
fry  them  in  hot  fat  until  golden-brown.  Drain  well,  and  serve  gar- 
nished with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  oxi.  to  lod.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2879.— MINCED     BEEF     AND     POACHED     EGGS. 

(Fr. — Eminc6  de  Boeuf  aux  CEufs  poches.) 

Ingredients. — J  a  Ib.  of  underdone  roast  beef,  2  eggs,  ^  of  a  pint  of 
gravy,  %  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  finely-chopped  small  onion, 
4  a  tcaspoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  Worcester  sauce,  or  vinegar, 
toasted  bread,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  dice,  melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
fry  the  onion  until  lightly  browned,  sprinkle  in  the  flour  and  brown 
slightly,  then  add  the  stock  and  boil  for  2  or  3  minutes.  Now  put  in 
the  meat,  ketchup,  sauce  or  vinegar,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  let  the  pan  stand  where  the  contents  will  be  kept  hot  without 
boiling  for  10  or  15  minutes.  Meanwhile  poach  the  eggs  and  trim 
them  to  a  round  form;  cut  the  toast  into  small  triangular  shapes.  When 
ready  to  serve,  turn  the  mince  on  to  a  hot  dish,  place  the  eggs  on  the 
top,  and  surround  the  base  with  the  pieces  of  toast.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  2  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2880.— MUTTON    AND    TOMATOES.      (Fr.-  Mouton 
aux  Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  mutton,  3  tomatoes,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls 
of  brown  breadcrumbs,  |  of  a  pint  of  gravy,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 
Method.— Cut    the   meat    into   thin  slices;   also   slice   the   tomatoes. 


1246  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Butter  a  baking-dish,  put  a  layer  of  tomatoes  at  the  bottor  !l 
lightly  with  breadcrumbs,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper, 
slices  of  meat  on  the  top.     Repeat  until  all  is  used,  so  contr  V    '7\UF®- 
the  tomato  forms  the  last  layer,  and  pour  in  the  gravy.     S^         c  the 
surface  thickly  with  brown  breadcrumbs,  place  a  few  bits  of  Dutter 
on  the  top,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  %  an  hour,  and  rcrvc. 

Time. — About  half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2881.— OMELET  PLAIN.     (Fr.— Omelette  Naturel.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  i^  ozs.  of 
butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  just  long  enough  to  mix  the  yolks  and  whites 
well  together,  and  add  the  cream  and  seasoning.  Melt  the  butter 
in  an  omelet  pan,  and  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises.  Pour  in  the  mix- 
ture, stir  with  a  fork  until  the  eggs  begin  to  set,  then  fold  the  sides 
towards  the  middle  in  an  oblong  form;  or  draw  the  mixture  towards 
the  handle  of  the  pan,  thus  forming  a  half-moon  shape.  Turn  over 
on  to  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  quickly. 

Time. — 5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  from  8d.  to  lod.  Sufficient  for  2 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — Minced  cooked  ham,  tongue,  chicken,  meat  or  fish  may  be  mixed 
\\dth  the  eggs,  or  if  raw,  fried  in  the  butter  before  putting  in  the  eggs.  Such 
additions  as  sliced  tomatoes,  kidneys,  etc.,  are  folded  inside  the  omelet  when 
it  is  partially  or  completely  cooked. 

2882.— OMELET    WITH    HERBS.      (P>.  —  Omelette 
aux  Fines  Herbes.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  $  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot 
or  onion,  a  pinch  of  mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  i£  ozs.  of  butter. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  until  light,  add  the  cream  or  milk,  parsley, 
shallot  and  herbs,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  the  butter 
in  an  omelet  pan,  pour  in  the  mixture,  stir  with  a  fork  until  the  eggs 
are  on  the  point  of  setting,  then,  with  a  spoon,  draw  it  quickly  towards 
the  handle  of  the  pan  in  the  shape  of  a  crescent.  Turn  over  on  to  a  hot 
dish,  and  serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — 5    minutes.      Average    Cost,    8d.    to    lod.      Sufficient    for    2 

persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time, 

^.         .oj3O  FAJVIO  i 

2883.— PAPRIKA  KEDGEREE.     (See  Kedgeree,  Pap- 
rika, No.  2873.) 

2884.— POLENTA.     (See  Italian  Cookery.) 


BREAKFAST  DISHES  1247 

-POTATO  CHIPS.     (Fr.—  Pommes  Chippes.) 

Pei^V    nts.— Potatoes,  salt,   frying-fat. 

-Peel  the  potatoes,  slice  them  thinly,  wash  them  well  in 
cold  a...  ,  then  drain  and  dry  thoroughly.  Fry  them  in  a  wire  basket 
in  very  hot  fat  until  sufficiently  cooked,  then  remove  them  and  re-heat 
the  fat.  Wait  until  the  blue  vapour  arises  from  the  fat,  then  replace 
the  basket,  and  fry  until  the  potatoes  become  crisp  and  lightly  browned. 
Drain  well,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  serve. 
Time.— 15  minutes. 

2886.— POTATOES  SAUTED.   (Fr.—  Pommes  Sautees.) 

Ingredients. — 5  or  6  cold  boiled  potatoes,  i  oz.  of  butter,  ^  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  potatoes  into  £  inch  slices,  and  season  them  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  put  in  the  potatoes, 
and  fry  them  until  lightly  browned  on  both  sides.  Then  turn  on  to 
a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — Ten  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2\<\.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  tii 

2887.— POTATO  STRAWS.    (Fr.— Pommes  Pailles.) 

Ingredients.— Potatoes,  salt,   fr\ 

Method. — Peel  the  potatoes,  slice  them  thinly,  and  cut  the  slices  into 
fine  strips.  Wash  them  well  in  cold  .:ain  in  a  sieve,  and  dry 

thoroughly  in  a  cloth.  Fry  them  in  a  wire  basket  in  smoking  hot  fat 
until  crisp  and  golden-brown,  then  drain  \\<  11,  sprinkle  lightly  with 
salt,  and  serve. 

2888.— RAMAKINS     OF     COLD     CURRY. 

(Fr. — Ramaquins  de  Kari  Froid.) 

Ingredients.- -4  ozs.  of  cooked  chicken,  veal  or  rabbit,  i  tomato,  I 
finely-chopped  medium-sized  mild  onion,  |  of  a  pint  of  white  stock, 
£  of  a  pint  of  milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  level  table- 
spoonful  of  curry-powder,  i  teaspooniul  of  flour,  lemon-juice,  salt, 
Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Shred  the  meat  finely,  and  pass  the  tomato  through  a  hair 
sieve.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  without  browning, 
then  sprinkle  in  the  cuir  ;  and  flour,  and  cook  slowly  for  about 

5  minutes.  Now  add  the  stock  and  milk,  season  to  taste,  simmer 
gently  until  reduced  to  half  the  original  quantity,  then  put  in  the 
lemon- j nice  and  meat.  Let  the  stewpm  s;(lnd  for 
20  minutes  where  the  contents  will  be  kept  just  below  simmering  point, 


1248  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

then  turn  into  a  basin,  add  more  lemon-juice  and  seasoning  if  neoss- 
sary,  and  put  the  preparation  aside  until  cold.  When  ready  for  iwe, 
whip  the  cream  stiffly,  stir  it  lightly  into  the  curry,  and  put  the  nfrxture 
into  china  or  paper  ramakin  cases.  Sprinkle  with  Krona  pepper, 
and  serve  cold. 

Time. — Two  hours.  Average  Cost,  nd.  to  is.  id.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2889.— RAMAKINS     OF     DRIED     HADDOCK. 

(Fr. — Ramaquins  de  Merluche  fumee.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  smoked  haddock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of 
flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs,  panurette  or  browned  breadcrumbs, 
salt  and  pepper,  parsley. 

Method. — Pour  boiling  water  over  the  fish,  let  it  remain  for  2  or  3 
minutes,  then  free  it  from  skin  and  bone,  and  chop  it  finely.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  first  the  flour  and  next  the  milk,  and  boil 
the  mixture  for  2  or  3  minutes,  stirring  meanwhile.  Now  put  in  the 
fish  and  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  season  to  taste.  Whisk  the  whites  to 
a  stiff  froth,  stir  them  lightly  in,  put  the  mixture  into  well-buttered 
china  or  paper  ramakin  cases,  sprinkle  the  surface  with  red  panurette 
or  browned  breadcrumbs,  and  add  2  or  3  very  small  bits  of  butter. 
Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  from  15  to  20  minutes,  garnish 
with  parsley,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  6 
ramakins.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2890.— RICE  CROQUETTES.  (See  Recipe  No.  3110.) 
2891.— RISOLETTI.  (See  Italian  Risoletti,  No.  2976.) 

2892.— ROES  ON  TOAST.  (See  Croutes  of  Cod's  Roe, 
No.  2747,  Herring  Roes,  Croutes  of,  No.  2761, 
and  Herring  Roe  Tit-Bits,  No.  2763.) 

2893.—  SALMON  AU  GRATIN. 

Ingredients. — Cooked  salmon,  fish  sauce  or  white  sauce,  brown  bread- 
crumbs, salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Separate  the  fish  into  large  flakes,  place  them  in  a  fireproof 
baking-tin,  sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  barely  cover  with 
sauce.  Add  a  thin  layer  of  lightly-browned  breadcrumbs,  place  a 
few  small  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven  for  a  few  minutes.  Serve  in  the  dish 


BREAKFAST  DISHES  1249 

Time. — From  8  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  salmon,  is.  3d.  to  2s.  6d. 
per  Ib.  Allow  i  Ib.  to  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to 
October. 

2894.— SALMON,  FRIED.     (A  Jewish  Recipe.) 

(Fr. — Tranches  des  Saumon  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — 2  slices  of  salmon  about  i£  inches  thick,  i  egg,  flour, 
salt  and  pepper,  salad-oil. 

Method. — Wash  the  fish  in  cold  water,  dry  it  well,  sprinkle  both 
sides  of  each  slice  with  salt,  let  them  remain  for  £  an  hour,  then  fold 
them  in  a  clean  dry  cloth,  and  press  gently  to  remove  all  moisture. 
Season  a  good  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  salt  and  pepper,  coat  the 
fish  completely,  and  dip  it  into  beaten  egg.  While  this  is  being  done. 
heat  some  salad-oil  in  a  saute-pan  or  frying-pan,  now  put  in  the  fish, 
and  fry  until  well  browned  on  both  sides.  Drain  thoroughly  and 
serve  cold. 

Time. — One  hour.  Average  Cost,  js.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 
Seasonable  from  February  to  August. 

2895.— SALMON  FRITTERS.     (See  Fillets  of  Salmon 
Fried  in  Batter,  No.  2857.) 

2896.— SALMON  PIE.     (Fr.— Pat6  de  Saumon.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  cold  salmon,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  mashed  potatoes, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  white  breadcrumbs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  oiled  butter, 
2  eggs,  £of  a  pint  of  milk  (about),  panurette  or  browned  breadcrumbs, 
butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Free  the  fish  from  skin  and  bone,  and  chop  it  coarsely. 
Put  it  into  a  basin  with  the  potato,  white  breadcrumbs,  and  oiled 
butter,  season  rather  highly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  in  the  eggs 
and  as  much  milk  as  is  needed  to  form  the  whole  into  a  stiff  batter. 
Have  ready  a  well  greased  white  china  baking  dish  or  a  piedish,  turn 
in  the  fish  preparation,  sprinkle  the  surface  with  red  panurette  or 
brown  breadcrumbs,  and  add  a  few  very  small  bits  of  butter.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  i  hour,  or  until  the  mixture  is  set. 
Serve  hot,  or  reheat  at  the  time  of  serving. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to  September. 

2897.— SALMON     TIMBALES.       (Fr.—  Timbales     de 
Saumon.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  cold  salmon,  2  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  £  an  oz. 
of  butter  (oiled),  i  large  egg  or  2  sni;ill  ones,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream 

S  S 


1250  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

or  milk,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  mace,  cayenne,  parsley,  \  of  a 
pint  of  Hollandaise  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  304). 

Method. — Divide  the  fish  into  small  flakes,  add  the  butter,  cream 
and  yolk  of  egg  gradually,  working  the  fish  meanwhile  with  a  fork. 
Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  cayenne,  add  the  lemon-juice  and  a  pinch 
of  mace,  and  lastly  the  stiff-whisked  white  of  egg.  Have  ready  6 
well-buttered  timbale  or  dariol  moulds,  fill  them  with  the  preparation, 
place  them  in  a  saute-pan,  surround  to  half  their  depth  with  boiling 
water,  and  cook  on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven  for  about  30  minutes, 
or  until  the  mixture  is  set.  Then  unmould,  coat  with  the  Hollandaise 
sauce,  garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — One  hour.  Average  Cost,  pd.  to  nd.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable,  fresh  salmon  from  February  to  September.  From 
tinned  salmon  at  any  time. 

2898.— SARDINES     WITH     PARMESAN.     (Fr.— Sar- 
dines au  Parmesan.) 

Ingredients. — Sardines,  2  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  4  ozs.  of 
flour,  i  oz.  of  oiled  butter,  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne,  frying-fat, 
Krona  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  a  dessertspoonful  of  cheese,  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  and  a  good  pinch  of  cayenne  together,  add  the  yolk  of  the 
egg  and  as  much  cold  water  as  is  needed  to  form  a  stiff  paste.  Knead 
well  for  at  least  10  minutes,  then  put  the  paste  aside  in  a  cool  place  for 
at  least  i  hour.  Meanwhile  remove  the  skin  and  tails  from  the  sar- 
dines, take  out  the  backbone  and  replace  the  two  halves,  then  dip  each 
sardine  in  oiled  butter  and  coat  lightly  with  cheese.  Roll  the  paste 
out  as  thinly  as  possible,  and  cut  it  into  oblong  strips  just  large  enough 
to  enclose  a  sardine.  Moisten  the  edges  of  the  paste  with  white  of 
egg,  place  the  sardines  on  one  half,  fold  the  other  over,  and  pinch  the 
edges  together.  Drop  them  into  hot  fat,  fry  until  golden-brown, 
then  drain  well,  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese  and  Krona  pepper,  and 
serve. 

Time. — Two  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  pd.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2899. — SAUSAGES.     (See  Nos.  1049  and  1142.) 

2900.— SAUSAGE     CROQUETTES.        (Croquettes    de 
Saucisse.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  pork  sausages,  \  a  Ib.  of  mashed  potatoes, 
£  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  whole  egg,  i  yolk  of  egg,  i  dessertspoonful  of  cream 
or  milk,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  salt,  cayenne,  nutmeg,  fried  parsley. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES  1251 

Method. — Prick  the  sausages,  put  them  into  boiling  water,  cook  them 
for  10  minutes,  and  when  cold  i<  •  skins  and  cut  them  across 

in  halves.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  mashed  potato 
and  cream,  season  well  with  salt  -tir  until  hot,  then  add 

the  yolk  of  egg  and  continue  the  cooking  and  st  irring  tor  about  5  minutes 
longer.  Let  the  potato  cool,  then  spread  a  thin  layer  over  each  piece 
of  sausage;  coat  these  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat  until 
golden-brown,  and  serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time.  11  hours.  Average  Cost,  13,  jd.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

2901.— SAUTED  KIDNEYS.  (Fr.— Rognons  Sau^s.) 

Ingredients. —2  sheep's  or   i   pork  kidney,   i   oz.  of  butter,   i   i. 
chopped  shallot  or  fine  onion,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley. 
3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  good  brown  sauce,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  — Skin  the  kidneys,  cut  them  across  into  very  thin  slices, 
and  remove  the  core.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  shallot 
until  golden-brown,  then  put  in  the  sliced  kidneys  and  parsley,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  toss  them  over  the  fire  for  5  or  6  minutes. 
Add  the  brown  sauce,  mix  it  well  with  the  kidneys,  and  when  thor< 
heated,  serve. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  Sd.  Sufficient  for  2  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — For  other  recipes  for  cook in^  ki«hu-ys,  s« Chapters  XVI.  and  XXI. 

2902.— SAVOURY  EGGS. 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  4  rounds  of  buttered  toast,  2  ozs.  of  finely- 
chopped  cooked  ham,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Method. — Butter   4   small   china   ramakin    cases   or   dariol    moulds, 

and  coat  them  thickly  with  ham  and  parsley,  previously  mixed  together. 

I  an  egg  carefully  into  each  case,  and  sprinkle  them  \\ith  salt  and 

pepper.     Bake  or  steam  Until  firm,  then  turn  them  on  to  the  prepared 

toast,  and  M 

Time. — 10  to  i  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  iod.  Sufficient  for  5  or  4  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  tune. 

2903.— SAVOURY  FRITTERS. 

Ingredients. — Cold  meat  of  any  description,  mashed  potato,  salt  and 
pepper,  frying-batter  (see  p.  882),  frying-fat. 

Method.  -This  dish  admits  of  many  variations:   thin  slices  01 
and   ham   put    together,   underdone    beef    seasoned   with   ketchup  or 
unit  tou  with  slices  of  tomato,  are  generally  liked. 


1252  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Whatever  meat  is  used,  it  must  be  cut  into  rounds  from  i|  to  if  inches 
in  diameter.  Season  the  potato  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
stir  it  over  the  fire,  adding  a  little  milk  gradually  until  it  becomes 
sufficiently  moist  to  be  easily  spread.  Cover  both  sides  of  the  pre- 
pared rounds  with  potato,  smoothing  it  with  a  hot  wet  knife.  Dip 
the  rounds  in  batter  (or  coat  them  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs  if  pre- 
ferred), and  fry  them  in  hot  fat.  If  available,  use  a  deep  pan  of  fat 
for  the  purpose;  if  not,  by  having  a  fairly  deep  layer  of  fat,  and  exer- 
cising a  little  care,  the  fritters  may  be  nicely  cooked  in  a  frying-pan. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  Allow  2  or  3  for 
each  person.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2904.— SAVOURY  FRITTERS.    (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  2  whole  eggs,  i  yolk  of 
GSS>  l%  gills  of  water,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tongue,  ham  or  chicken  cut 
into  small  dice,  4  button  mushrooms  cut  into  dice,  nutmeg,  salt  and 
pepper,  parsley,  fry  ing-fat. 

Method. — Put  the  water  and  butter  into  a  small  stewpan;  when 
boiling,  stir  in  the  flour  and  work  vigorously  over  the  fire  until  the 
paste  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan.  Let  it  cool  slightly,  then 
beat  in  the  eggs,  adding  each  one  separately.  Season  well  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  stir  in  the  dice  or  meat  and  mushrooms, 
and  spread  the  preparation  on  a  slab  or  large  dish  forming  a  square 
about  £  an  inch  in  thickness.  When  cold,  cut  into  small  squares 
about  i  £  inches  in  diameter,  fry  the  squares  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and 
brown,  drain  well,  and  serve  garnished  with  crisply-fried  parsley. 
If  liked,  tomato,  piquante  or  other  suitable  sauce  may  accompany  this 
dish. 

Time. — Two  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2905.— SAVOURY  MACARONI. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  i  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese, 
i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No.  222),  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  short  pieces,  throw  them  into 
rapidly-boiling  salted  water,  boil  for  20  minutes,  or  until  tender,  and 
drain  well.  Have  the  sauce  ready,  add  the  macaroni,  cheese,  cream, 
anchovy  essence,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Mix  well,  then 
turn  into  china  coquilles  or  ramakin  cases,  bake  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven  until  the  surface  is  well  browned,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  ;d.  Sufficient  for  4 
coquilles  or  8  ramakins  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES  1253 

2906.— SAVOURY  MEAT  TOAST. 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  cold  meat,  of  any 
description,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  gravy  or  milk,  i  egg,  2  rounds  of  buttered 
toast,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Warm  the  butter  and  meat  in  a  stewpan,  beat  the  egg 
slightly,  add  the  gravy  or  milk,  season  to  taste,  pour  the  mixture  into 
the  stewpan,  and  stir  until  the  egg  begins  to  set.  Have  the  toast 
ready,  trim  the  edges,  spread  on  the  preparation,  and  serve.  The 
above  may  be  varied  by  the  addition  of  parsley,  onion,  herbs  or  ketchup. 
Worcester  sauce,  etc. 

Time.— 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  Sufficient  for  i  or  2 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2907.— SAVOURY  MINCE  CROUSTADES. 

Ingredients. — 3  pork  sausages,  2  slices  of  streaky  bacon,  6  coarsely- 
chopped  button  mushrooms,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  or  tomato 
sauce  (see  Sauces),  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  milk, 
i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  salt  and  pepper,  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Place  the  bacon  in  a  hct  frying-pan,  and  fry  until  rather 
crisp;  prick  the  sausages,  and  fry  thrm  in  the  bacon  fat.  When  cool, 
cut  both  into  small  dice,  first  removing  the  skins  of  the  sausages,  put 
them  with  the  sauce,  mushrooms,  and  parsley  into  a  stewpan,  season 
to  taste,  and  re-heat.  To  make  the  crovistades,  cut  i  inch  slices  from 
a  stale  loaf,  stamp  out  6  round  or  oval  shapes,  and  scoop  out  the  inside, 
forming  a  hollow  to  hold  the  mince.  Now  dip  them  in  milk,  let  them 
become  moistened  without  being  sodden,  then  coat  them  with  egg  and 
breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Have  the  mince 
ready,  fill  the  cases,  garnish  with  fried  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable 
from  September  to  April. 

2908.— SCOTCH  EGGS.     (Fr.— CEufs  a  1'Ecossaise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  hard-boiled  eggs,  •$•  a  Ib.  of  sausages,  i  raw  egg,  bread- 
crumbs, frying-fat,  fried  parsley,  6  croutes  of  fried  bread. 

Method. — Skin  the  sausages,  mix  them  together,  and  divide  into  3  equal 
parts.  Shell  the  eggs,  enclose  them  in  the  sausage  meat,  coat  with  egg 
and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat,  which  should  be  sufficiently  deep 
to  cover  them.  Drain  well,  cut  them  in  halves,  dish  them  on  the 
croutes,  and  serve  garnished  with  parsley.  Tomato  sauce  frequently 
accompanies  this  dish. 

Time. — Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1254  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2909.— SCRAMBLED     EGGS.        (Fr.— OEufs      Brou- 
illes.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  2  slices  of  buttered  toast,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  chopped  parsley. 

Method. — If  liked,  round,  oval,  or  triangular  croutes  of  toasted  bread 
may  be  used,  but  for  ordinary  purposes  each  slice  of  toast  may  be 
trimmed  and  cut  into  quarters.  Beat  the  eggs  slightly,  season  them  with 
salt  and  pepper,  add  the  cream  or  milk,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a 
stewpan,  in  which  the  butter  should  have  been  previously  melted. 
Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  begin  to  set,  then  pile  on  the  toast, 
sprinkle  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  id.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


2910.— SCRAMBLED    EGGS    WITH      MUSHROOMS, 
(Fr. — CEufs  Brouilles  aux  Champignons.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  6  button  mushrooms  (preferably  fresh  ones), 
i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  2  slices  of  buttered 
toast,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  the  mushrooms,  cut  them  into  small  dice,  and  fry 
lightly  in  the  butter.  Meanwhile  trim  the  toast  and  divide  each  slice 
into  4  squares.  Beat  the  eggs  slightly,  season  them  with  salt  and 
pepper,  add  the  cream,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  the  stewpan.  Stir 
over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  begin  to  set,  then  pile  the  preparation  on  the 
toast,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2911.— SCRAMBLED  EGGS  AND  HAM.     (Fr.— CEufs 
Brouilles  au  Jambon.) 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely-chopped  ham,  2  eggs,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  2  rounds  of  buttered 
toast. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  ham  and  let  it  heat 
gradually  in  the  butter.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  milk,  season  to  taste, 
pour  it  into  the  stewpan,  and  stir  until  the  eggs  begin  to  set.  Have 
the  hot  toast  ready,  pile  the  preparation  lightly  upon  it,  and  serve 
at  once.  Tongue  or  other  kinds  of  meat  may  be  substituted  for  the 
ham. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES  1255 

2912.— SPICED  SALMON.     (Fr.— Saumon  Epice.) 

Ingredients. — To  2  or  3  Ibs.  of  cooked  salmon,  allow  i  pint  of  the  liquor 
in  which  it  was  boiled,  £  of  a  pint  of  good  malt  vinegar,  i  oz.  of  butter. 
2  bay-leaves,  12  white  peppercorns,  12  allspice,  4  cloves,  a  blade  of 
mace,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — The  cold  remains  of  boiled  salmon  may  be  utilised  for  this 
dish.  As  soon  as  it  leaves  the  table,  remove  as  many  bones  as  possible, 
and  trim  and  press  it  into  a  compact  shape.  Meanwhile  the  marinade 
should  have  been  prepared  by  simmering  together  for  i  hour  the  above- 
named  quantities  of  liquor,  vinegar  and  spice.  When  cold,  strain  it 
over  the  fish,  which,  if  not  completely  immersed,  should  be  turned  once 
during  the  12  hours  that  must  elapse  before  the  salmon  is  ready  for 
use.  Mayonnaise  sauce  or  a  good  salad  dressing  should  accompany  this 
dish  when  served. 

Time. — 14  hours.  Average  Cost,  salmon  from  is.  3d.  to  35.  6d.  per  lb. 
Allow  i  lb.  for  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to  August. 

2913.— SPRATS   FRIED   IN   BATTER.  (Fr.— Melettes 
frites.) 

Ingredients. — i  lb.  of  sprats,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
£  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  ^  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  £  ot  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon  rind, 
living-batter  (see  p.  882),  salad-oil  or  clarified  fat,  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method.— Wipe  or  wash  the  fish,  and  if  liked,  cut  off  the  heads  and  tails, 
but  do  not  open  them.  Make  the  batter  as  directed,  add  to  it  the  parsley, 
shallot,  herbs,  lemon-rind,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  pepper,  dip  in  the 
sprats,  taking  care  to  coat  them  completely,  and  fry  them  in  hot  oil  or 
fat  in  a  frying-pan  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  gar- 
nished with  tried  parsley. 

Time. —  Half  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  7d.  or  8d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  from  November  to  April. 

2914.—  STUFFED     HERRINGS     WITH     MUSTARD 
BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — 4  fresh  herrings,  i£  tablespoonfuls  of  white  breadcrumbs, 
i  tablespoonful  of  oiled  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence  or 
paste,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  salt  and 
pepper.  For  the  mustard  butter:  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
dry  mustard,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice. 

Method.— -Mix  the  butter,  mustard  and  lemon-juice  on  a  plate,  form 
the  mixture  into  a  pat,  and  put  it  aside  in  a  cool  place  until  firm.  Wash 
and  dry  the  herrings,  remove  the  heads,  split  them  open  ancl  tak< 


1256  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  backbone.  Put  the  roes  into  boiling  water,  cook  gently  for  10  or 
15  minutes,  then  chop  them  coarsely.  Mix  with  them  the  bread- 
crumbs, butter,  anchovy  essence,  and  shallot,  season  rather  highly 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stuff  the  herrings  with  the  preparation. 
Close  them  in  their  natural  form,  brush  them  over  with  warm  butter, 
and  bake  them  for  about  20  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Place  a  pat 
of  mustard  butter  on  the  top  of  each  herring,  and  serve. 

Time. — 40    minutes.     Average    Cost,    6d.    or  ;d.     Sufficient  for  3  or 
4  persons.     Seasonable  from  July  to  February. 


2915.— TINNED    MEAT.     (See    Chapter  XXVIII.) 
2916.— TOMATO  SAUSAGES. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  tomato  puree,  %  a  pint  of  well-cooked  rice, 
\  a  pint  of  breadcrumbs,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  i 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  sausage  skins. 

Method. — When  using  fresh  tomatoes,  squeeze  out  the  greater  part 
of  the  juice,  add  it  to  the  water  in  which  the  rice  is  cooked,  and  pass 
the  tomato  pulp  through  a  fine  sieve.  Mix  the  rice,  breadcrumbs, 
tomato  puree,  onion,  herbs,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper, 
well  together,  press  the  mixture  lightly  into  the  skins,  and  fry  in  hot 
fat  or  butter  until  well-browned. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  i£  Ibs. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


2917.— TRUFFLES,   ITALIAN  STYLE.     (Fr.— Truffes 
a  Tltalienne.) 

Ingredients. — Fresh  truffles,  salad  oil,  lemon  juice,  finely-chopped 
parsley,  finely-chopped  shallot,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Scrub,  wash,  peel  and  slice  the  truffles,  and  place  them  in 
a  well-buttered  gratin  dish.  Sprinkle  them  lightly  with  parsley, 
shallot,  salt  and  pepper,  moisten  them  with  salad  oil,  and  cover  closely. 
Bake  gently  from  25  to  30  minutes,  then  sprinkle  lightly  with  lemon 
juice,  and  serve  in  the  dish. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  uncertain,  usually  from.ios.  to 
1 2s.  per  Ib.  Allow  £  a  Ib.  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

2918.— WAFFLES.     (Fr.— Gauffres.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  flour,  i£  ozs.  of  butter  melted,  i£  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  white  of  egg,  £  a  pint  of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of 
milk. 


CARVING    No. 


I.  Lay  the  crab  on  its  back,  insert  fingers  between  the  shell  and  fish,  and  using  the  thumbs 
as  levers,  push  body  away  from  shell,  a.  Break  off  the  claws,  remove  poisonous  "  fingers," 
cut  away  sides  of  the  "  back  "  shell,  and  dress  the  crab  in  this  part,  without  disturbing  the 
contents.  The  "  fingers  '  usually  adhere  to  belly  of  the  crab.  When  cutting  away  the  sides  of 


CARVING    No.  2, 


How  to  split  and  dress  a  lobster  for  table. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES  1257 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  sugar,  butter  and  eggs  together  until  smooth, 
add  the  cream  and  milk,  and  beat  well.  Heat  the  waffle-irons,  grease 
carefully  with  oiled  butter,  using  a  feather  for  the  purpose,  and  pour 
about  2  tablespocnfuls  of  the  preparation  into  each  division.  Bake 
each  side  from  2  to  3  minutes,  or  until  lightly  browned,  and  serve 
sprinkled  with  sugar. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2919.— WAFFLES,  AMERICAN. 

Ingredients. — i  breakfastcupful  of  well-boiled  rice,  2  eggs,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  butter. 

Method. — The  rice  must  be  very  dry  and  soft.  Add  to  it  the  flour, 
eggs,  and  milk,  and  beat  well.  When  nearly  cold,  bake  as  directed  in 
the  preceding  recipe,  spread  liberally  with  butter,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2920.— WAFFLES,  FRENCH. 

Ingredients. — 4^  ozs.  of  fine  flour,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar, 
i  tablespoonful  of  noyeau,  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  essence,  £  a  pint  of 
cream,  4  eggs. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  sugar,  yolks  of  eggs,  noyeau,  and  vanilla 
essence  well  together,  add  the  cream,  and  lastly  the  stiffly-whisked 
whites  of  eggs.  Cook  as  directed  (see  Waffles),  and  serve  at  once. 

Time.— About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


"HE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT 
TABLE. 

CHAPTER    XXXIX 

Instructions  for  Carving  Fish,  Meat,  Poultry  and  Game. 

IT  is  to  be  feared  that  carving  is  an  art  to  a  great  extent  neglected  in 
this  country.  This  is  a  curious  fact  when  considered  in  connexion 
with  the  great  growth  in  the  cult  of  the  cuisine  in  England  of  late 
years,  yet  the  conscientious  historian  of  the  habits  of  our  times  is  com- 
pelled willy  nilly  to  make  the  admission.  It  must  be  admitted  that 
the  modern  fashion  of  serving  a  la  Russe  has  to  a  large  extent  relieved 
the  host  and  hostess  from  carving  at  dinner,  but  the  art  is  still  required 
at  breakfasts,  luncheons,  and  quiet  family  repasts.  The  real  trouble 
is  that  the  Englishman  does  not  take  the  matter  sufficiently  seriously 
— passes  it  over  as  a  mere  mechanical  and  considerably  boring  accom- 
paniment to  a  meal.  This  constitutes  a  grave  error.  To  carve  well 
is  a  graceful  combination  of  science  with  art,  and  your  true  carver 
would  carve  symmetrically  as  well  as  economically  even  were  he  put 
in  the  position  of  dividing  a  sucking-pig  between  two.  Considering 
how  important  and  useful  an  accomplishment  it  is,  one  is  astounded 
that  more  people  do  not  make  an  effort  to  carve  at  least  passably. 
The  explanation,  perhaps,  lies  in  the  fact  that  carving  holds  a  place 
among  those  arts  which  every  man  is  convinced  he  can  practise  better 
and  more  scientifically  than  any  one  else  in  the  world  ! 

How  often,  too,  does  one  come  across  the  man  who  grumbles  at  the 
cook  when  the  real  fault  lies  with  him  who  cut  the  food  !  The  greater 
number  of  those  who  dine  in  a  first-rate  restaurant  and  are  pleased 
to  pose  as  gourmets  never  in  this  respect  appear  willing  to  learn  by  ex- 
perience or  example,  but  quietly  turn  to  their  neighbour,  and  discuss 
the  latest  news,  the  weather,  and  their  personal  affairs,  while  the 
maitre  d'hotel  is  giving  an  example  of  an  art  the  acquisition  of  which 
has  cost  him  the  study  of  a  lifetime  and  contains  perhaps  the  secret 
of  a  great  gastronomic  success. 

Without  doubt  the  first  carver  of  recent  times  was  the  late  M.  Joseph 
— proprietor  of  the  Restaurant  Marivaux,  in  Paris,  and  sometime 
director  of  the  Savoy  Restaurant,  London. 


CARVING    No.  3. 


3.  Plaice. 


CARVING    No.  4- 


i.  Turbot.         2.  Mackerel.         3.  Salmon. 


86 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT  TABLE  1259 

In  his  own  restaurant  every  aid  was  given  to  obtain  effect  ;  the 
orchestra  stopped  dead,  and  taking  his  stand  at  the  head  of  the  room, 
the  master  sliced  off  joints,  one  after  the  other,  with  vigorous  single 
cuts,  holding  the  bird  on  a  fork  in  his  left  hand.  Lieut.-Col.  Newnham 
Davis,  in  his  Dinners  and  Diners  gives  an  admirable  idea  of  the 
effect  produced  by  Joseph's  carving  when  he  says  :  "  In  an  irreverent 
moment  I  was  reminded  of  the  Chinese  torture  of  the  Ling  Chi,  in 
which  the  executioner  slashes  at  his  victim  without  hitting  a  vital 
part  in  the  first  fifty  cuts,  as  I  watched  Joseph  calmly,  solemnly,  with 
absolute  exactitude,  cutting  a  duck  to  pieces  with  a  long,  thin  knife." 

It  need  hardly  be  here  remarked  that  the  ordinary  amateur  cannot 
be  expected  to  attain  the  pre-eminence  of  a  Joseph  or  a  Ritz,  but  all 
will  be  well  advised  to  learn  at  least  how  to  carve  some  of  the 
simpler  dishes  of  everyday  appearance  in  the  average  British  house- 
hold. 

Truly  the  case  of  the  man  who  is  entirely  ignorant  of  carving  is 
parlous.  We  have  all  seen  him,  offering  in  an  emergency  to  assist  his 
hostess,  and  trying  by  mere  physical  force  to  overcome  his  lack  of 
skill  ;  with  red  face  and  perspiring  forehead  he  hacks  and  tugs  at  the 
dish  in  front  of  him,  and  at  every  attempt  the  veins  stand  out  more 
prominently  in  his  head,  while  the  face  of  his  hostess  grows  graver 
each  moment  as  she  begins  to  realize  the  appalling  fact  that  the  dish 
will  not  go  round.  Hopelessly  at  s<  hamcfully  mangles  and 

hacks  the  joint  or  bird  before  him,  serving  slices  ragged  and  torn,  and 
accomplishing  even  this  result  so  slowly  that  the  dish  is  cold  long  before 
he  has  finished.  And  all  this  time  1.  — especially  if  he  be  of 

a  nervous  temperament — is  terrible  to  contemplate,  and  the  incon- 
venience to  those  who  witness  it  distressing  in  the  extreme. 

Besides  this  disadvantage  of  the  more  material  kind,  a  bad  carver 
is  handicapped  in  the  conversation  of  the  table,  in  which  he  plays,  or 
should  play,  an  important  part,  for  the  post  of  carver  has  come  to 
involve  considerable  social  obligations,  and  implies  that  its  holder 
should  to  some  extent  preside  over  the  feast.  Charles  Lamb,  in  "Cap- 
tain Jackson,"  has  given  us  an  example  of  the  carver  who,  even  though 
he  had  nothing  or  next  to  nothing  to  carve,  yet  contrived  to  make  a 
meal — however  slender — pleasant.  "  '  Let  us  live  while  we  can,' 
methinks  I  hear  the  open-hearted  creature  exclaim  ;  '  While  we  have, 
let  us  not  want '  ;  '  Here  is  plenty  left  '  ;  '  Want  for  nothing  ' — with 
many  more  such  hospitable  .  the  spurs  of  appetite,  and  old 

concomitants  of  smoking  boards  and  feast -oppressed  chargers.  Then 
sliding  a  slender  ratio  of  Single  Gloucester  upon  his  wife's  plate,  or 
the  d;-  .  he  would  convey  the  remnant  rind  to  his  own.  with  a 

quirk  of  '  The  nearer  the  bone,'  etc.,  and  declaring  that  he  uni- 
red    the   outside.  .  .  .   None   but   his   guest  or   guests 
ic-d  of  tasting  flesh  luxuries  at  ni'_:ht      the  fragments    wer- 
hosfiitibus  sacra.     But  of  one  thing  or  another  there  was  always  enough, 


I26o  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  leavings,  only  he  would  sometimes  finish  the  remainder  crust,  to 
show  that  he  wished  no  savings."  And  who  will  say  that  he  was  not  a 
good  carver  in  the  truest,  fullest  sense  of  the  word  ?  Would  that  more 
would  imitate  him  ! 

The  advantages  of  good  carving  are  many,  the  chiefest  being  the 
ability  to  derive  the  best  possible  flavour  from  a  dish,  and  at  the  same 
time  to  dispose  of  it  in  an  economical  manner.  Your  true  artist 
cuts  in  such  a  way  that  every  piece  which  he  serves  is  sightly  and 
palatable  and  does  not  contain  a  disproportionately  large  amount  of 
fat.  He  has,  too,  a  knowledge  of  the  natural  construction  of  various 
joints — a  knowledge  indispensable  to  all  who  wish  to  attain  any  pro- 
ficiency in  the  art — and  ensures  that  only  the  choicest  cuts  will  be  served. 

The  gourmet  of  to-day  is  too  complex  in  his  tastes,  mixing  many 
flavours  and  so  losing  the  true  significance  of  each,  and  it  is  therefore 
of  the  highest  importance  to  avoid  giving  any  one  person  two  differ- 
ently flavoured  slices  of  the  same  joint. 

Many  people  find  it  very  difficult  to  learn  to  carve,  but  as  a  rule  it 
is  because  they  do  not  begin  at  the  beginning.  They  try  to  cut  up  a 
bird  without  any  idea  of  its  anatomy,  and  to  cut  slices  of  meat  without 
knowing  how  the  grain  goes  or  where  to  find  the  joints,  if  any,  and 
they  therefore  cannot  succeed.  In  the  succeeding  pages  will  be  found 
full  directions  for  carving  fish,  meat,  poultry  and  game  and  accom- 
panying illustrations  to  help  out  the  instructions.  A  careful  study  of 
the  same  will  prevent  any  one  from  making  any  grave  error  ;  but  at 
the  same  time,  as  practice  alone  makes  perfect,  they  should  take  all 
the  opportunities  of  carving  that  come  in  their  way,  and  when  they  see 
a  good  carver  should  watch  his  or  her  operations  and  take  a  lesson 
therefrom. 

The  sharpness  of  the  knife  is,  of  course,  an  important  consideration, 
and  it  is  well  to  have  some  idea  of  how  to  use  a  steel,  though  the  opera- 
tion is  one  rather  for  the  workshop  than  the  dinner-table,  and  should 
be  performed  before  the  meal  by  a  servant  ;  still,  even  servants  are 
not  perfect,  so  the  would-be  carver  must  be  prepared  for  emergencies. 

When  carving  a  slice  of  meat,  after  the  first  incision  has  been  made, 
the  angle  at  which  the  knife  is  held  must  never  be  altered,  or  a  jagged 
slice  will  be  obtained.  When  the  way  to  control  the  knife  has  been 
mastered,  the  keystone  to  successful  carving  has  been  acquired. 

The  cut  should  be  direct,  sharp,  and  incisive.  A  saw-like  action 
should  never  enter  into  the  operation. 

Generally  speaking,  the  knife  should  be  held  firmly,  but  it  cuts  best 
when  applied  lightly,  and  less  gravy  is  squeezed  from  the  meat  when 
the  pressure  is  slight.  By  using  the  point  of  the  knife  lightly  as  a 
wedge,  and  the  fork  as  a  lever,  even  a  big  turkey  or  goose  may  be  easily 
jointed,  provided  the  carver  is  aware  exactly  how  the  joint  is  situated 
and  held  together.  Every  assistance  should  be  given  the  carver  by 
providing  him  with  a  thin  sharp-bladed  knife  of  suitable  size,  and  by 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT  TABLE  1261 

serving  whatever  is  to  be  carved  on  a  dish  large  enough  to  allow  the 
joint  or  bird  to  be  turned  to  the  most  convenient  position  for  the  pur- 
pose. The  dish  should  also  afford  space  for  carved  portions,  for  an 
expert  carver  will,  with  a  few  strokes  of  the  knife  disjoint  a  bird,  and 
usually  prefers  to  do  so  before  beginning  to  serve  any  part  of  it.  Carv- 
ing is  always  more  easily  and  pleasantly  performed  when  the  dish  con- 
tains neither  gravy  nor  garnish. 

A  steel  knife  and  fork  should  never  be  used  for  fish,  because  contact 
with  this  metal  is  apt  to  spoil  its  flavour,  particularly  with  certain 
choice  varieties  which  owe  their  excellence  almost  entirely  to  a  delicate 
characteristic  flavour  that  may  be  easily  destroyed  or  overpowered. 
A  silver  or  plated  slice  and  fork  should  be  provided  for  carving  and 
serving  it.  When  serving  fish  be  careful  not  to  break  the  flakes,  which 
ought  to  be  served  as  entire  as  possible,  though  short  grained  fish,  such 
as  salmon,  should  be  cut  lengthwise. 

The  carving  of  loins  and  necks  of  either  veal,  mutton,  or  lamb  must 
in  some  measure  be  determined  by  the  size  of  the  joints,  but  if  the 
butcher  has  separated  the  chine  bone  into  narrow  divisions,  the  carver 
should  have  no  difficulty  in  cutting  suitable  portions.  He  can  then 
cut  between  the  bones,  and  each  bone  with  meat  attached  should  be 
of  a  convenient  size  for  serving. 

Some  joints,  such  as  the  undercut  of  a  sirloin  of  beef,  or  the  knuckle 
end  of  a  leg  of  mutton  are  best  when  eaten  hot  ;  others  are  equally 
good  either  hot  or  cold,  but  sometimes  by  using  only  one  particular 
part  the  joint  may  present  a  better  appearance  when  served  cold. 
Thus,  if  the  under  side  of  either  a  shoulder  or  leg  of  mutton  is  cut  with- 
out encroaching  on  the  upper  surface,  when  the  joint  is  turned  over 
it  will  have  almost  the  appearance  of  an  uncut  one.  Moreover,  multi- 
plied cut  surfaces  provide  means  of  escape  for  the  juices  of  the  meat, 
and  as  a  natural  consequence  leave  a  dry  and  flavourless  cold  joint. 
Meat  should  always  be  cut  across  the  grain,  the  one  exception  to  the 
rule  being  the  saddle  of  mutton,  which  is  nearly  always  carved  at  right 
angles  to  the  rib  bones,  in  slices  running  parallel  with  the  fibres  of 
grain  of  the  meat.  When  the  joint  or  bird  is  stuffed  a  little  of  the 
forcemeat  should  be  served  with  each  portion,  and  the  same  rule 
applies  to  the  watercress  used  to  garnish  birds  and  the  toast  upon  which 
many  small  birds  are  dished.  The  gravy  may  be  poured  over  brown 
meats,  but  it  should  always  be  put  at  the  side  of  chicken,  veal  and 
white  meats. 

Ham  and  beef  should  be  carved  into  very  thin  slices,  and  mutton  and 
pork  into  fairly  thick  ones.  Joints  that  have  to  be  carved  should  be 
served  on  dishes  without  any  gravy  or  dressing. 

2921.— TO  SHARPEN  THE  CARVING   KNIFE. 

Hold  the  steel  in  the  left  hand,  which  should  be  on  a  level  with 
the  elbow,  pointing  the  steel  towards  the  right  shoulder,  and  hold 


1262  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  knife,  almost  perpendicularly,  in  the  right  hand.  Place  the  hilt 
of  the  knife's  edge  at  the  top  of  the  steel,  and  draw  the  blade  down- 
wards the  whole  length  of  both  steel  and  knife,  first  on  one  side  and 
then  on  the  other — i.e.,  so  that  the  point  of  the  knife  finishes  at  the  hilt 
of  the  steel.  The  blade  should  be  almost  flat  on  the  steel,  with  the 
back  slightly  raised  but  with  only  the  edge  touching  it. 

i':         Fish. 

2922. — COD.  (Carving  Illustration  No.  3,  Fig.  2.) 

Cut  in  fairly  thick  slices  through  to  the  centre  bone  and  detach  just 
above  it. 

Note. — Of  this  fish,  the  parts  about  the  backbone  and  shoulders  are  the 
firmest,  and  most  esteemed  by  connoisseurs.  The  sound,  which  lines  the  fish 
beneath  the  backbone,  is  considered  a  delicacy,  as  are  also  the  gelatinous  parts 
about  the  head  and  neck. 

2923. — CRAB,  TO  DRESS.    (Carving  Illustration  No  i.) 

Lay  the  crab  upon  its  back,  and  insert  the  fingers  between  the 
shell  and  the  fish.  Using  the  thumbs  as  levers,  push  the  body  away 
from  the  shell  (Fig.  i).  Break  off  the  claws,  remove  the  poisonous 
"  fingers,"  from  the  body  of  the  fish,  cut  away  the  sides  of  the 
"  back  "  shell,  and  dress  the  crab  in  this  part,  without  disturbing 
the  contents.  The  "fingers  "  usually  adhere  to  the  belly  of  the  crab. 
When  cutting  away  the  sides  of  the  shell,  run  the  knife  along  the  joint 
line,  which  is  easily  discernible.  To  demonstrate  this,  the  picture  only 
shows  one  side  cut  away  (Fig.  2). 

2924.— EEL  AND  ALL  FLAT  FISH. 

The  thick  part  of  the  eel  is  reckoned  the  best  ;  and  this  holds  good 
of  all  flat  fish. 

2925. — LOBSTER,    TO   DRESS.    (Carving   Illustration 

No.  2.) 

Insert  the  knife  at  the  centre  of  the  back,  and  cut  through  towards 
the  tail  (Fig.  i ).  Then  turn  the  lobster  round  and  cut  through  towards 
the  nose  (Fig.  2.)  If  this  end  is  cut  first  the  shell  invariably  breaks. 
Now  remove  the  "  brains  "  (Fig.  3).  These  are  usually  of  a  greenish 
colour  and  are  found  on  either  side  of  the  lobster.  Crack  the  claws 
with  a  hammer  and  arrange  the  fish  on  a  dish,  garnishing  with  fresh 
parsley.  The  tail  of  the  lobster  is  the  prime  part  and  next  to  that  the 
claws. 

2926. — MACKEREL.     (Carving     Illustration     No.     4, 
Fig.  2.) 

First  cut  along  the  backbone  of  the  fish.  Then  insert  the  fish-knife 
at  this  part  and  cut  through,  separating  the  upper  half  of  the  fish  which 


CARVING    No.  5. 


I.  Sirloin  of  Beef  (Uppercut).     2.  Sirloin  of  Beef  (Fillet).     3.  Round  of  Beef. 
8? 


CARVING    No.  6. 


I.  Calf's  Head.         2.  Aitchbone  of  Beef.          3.   Ham. 


88 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT  TABLE  1263 

may  be  divided  ;  when  the  fish  is  of  moderate  size  serve  for  two  help- 
ings only.  Next  remove  the  backbone,  tail  and  head,  and  divide  the 
lower  half  in  the  same  way. 

2927.— SALMON.    (Carving  Illustration  No.  4,  Fig.  3.) 

First  run  the  knife  down  the  centre  of  the  back  and  along  the 
whole  length  of  the  fish.  Then  cut  downwards  from  the  backbone  to 
the  middle  of  the  fish,  cut  through  the  centre  and  remove  the  piece 
from  the  back.  Next  cut  the  lower  part  of  the  fish  in  the  same  manner. 

A  slice  of  the  thick  part  should  always  be  accompanied  by  a  smaller 
piece  of  the  thin  from  the  belly,  where  lies  the  fat  of  the  fish. 

Note. — Many  persons,  in  carving  salmon,  make  the  mistake  of  slicing  the 
thick  part  of  this  fish  in  the  direction  opposite  to  that  we  have  shown,  and 
thus,  by  the  breaking  of  the  flakes,  the  beauty  of  its  appearance  is  destroyed. 

2928.— SOLE,  BOILED   OR    FRIED.     (Carving    Illus- 
tration No.  3,  Fig.   i.) 

The  usual  way  of  helping  this  tish  is  to  cut  it  quite  through,  bone  and 
all.  distributing  it  in  nice  and  not  too  large  pieces.  The  guests  should 
be  asked  which  part  they  prekr.  The  middle  part  is  generally  thought 
better  than  either  head  or  tail.  The  head  should  be  cut  off,  not  laid 
on  a  guest's  plate. 

In  helping  filleted  soles,  one  fillet  is  given  to  each  person. 

2929. — PLAICE.    (Carving  Illustration  No.  3,  Fig.  3.) 

t  run  the  knife  down  the  centre  of  the  fish.  Then  cut  down- 
wards (only  through  to  the  bone)  and  remove  portions  in  the  manner 
shown  in  the  illustration.  NVxt  take  away  the  backbone  and  head 
of  the  fish,  and  treat  the  lower  half  in  the  same  way. 

2930. — TURBOT.    (Carving  Illustration  No.  4,  Fig.   i.) 

•  run  the  fish-slice  down  the  thickest  part  of  the  fish,  quite  through 
to  the  bone,  and  then  cut  slices  towards  the  sides  of  the  fish  and  up- 

as  shown  in  the  engraving.  When  the  carver  has  removed  all 
the  meat  from  the  upper  side  of  the  fish,  the  backbone  should  be  raised, 
and  the  under  side  helped  as  the  upper. 

Note. — The  thick  parts  of  the  middle  of  the  back  are  the  best  slices  in  a 
turbot  ;   and  the  rich  gelatinous  skin  covering  the  fish,  as  well  as  a  little  of 
the  thick  part  of  the  tins,  are  dainty  morsels,  and  small  portions  should   be 
'  on  each  plate. 

2931.— BRILL  AND  JOHN  DORY. 

Tin -se  are  carved  in  the  same  manner  as  a  turbot.     Of  the  latter  the 

head  is  t'nr  best   part. 


1264  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2932.  —WHITING,  HADDOCK,  ETC. 

Whiting,  pike,  haddock  and  similar  fish,  when  of  sufficiently  large 
size,  may  be  carved  in  slices  from  each  side  of  the  backbone  in  the  same 
mnner  as  salmon  ;  each  fish  serving  for  four  or  more  slices.  When 
small,  they  may  be  cut  through,  bone  and  all,  and  helped  in  nice 
pieces.  A  small  whiting  is  served  whole  ;  a  middle-sized  fish  in  two 
pieces. 


2933-—  AITCHBONE    OF    BEEF.     (Carving    Illustra- 
tion No.  6,  Fig.  2.) 

A  boiled  aitchbone  of  beef  is  a  very  simple  joint  to  carve,  as  will  be 
seen  on  reference  to  the  illustration  which  clearly  shows  how  this  should 
be  treated.  Cut  nice  thin  slices. 

2934.—  BRISKET  OF  BEEF. 

But  little  description  is  necessary  to  show  how  a  boiled  brisket  of 
beef  is  carved.  The  point  to  be  observed  is  that  the  joint  should  be 
cut  evenly  and  firmly  quite  across  the  bones,  in  slices  the  whole  width 
of  the  joint,  so  that  on  its  re-appearance  at  table  it  should  not  have  a 
jagged  and  untidy  look. 

2935.—  BEEF  TONGUE. 

Cut  nearly  through  across  the  tongue  at  the  thick  part  and  then 
serve  a  fairly  thick  slice.  The  carving  may  be  continued  in  this  way 
towards  the  point  until  the  best  portions  of  the  upper  side  are  served. 
The  fat  which  lies  about  the  root  of  the  tongue  can  be  served  by 
turning  it  over. 

2936.  —  RIBS  OF  BEEF.     (Carving  Illustration  No.  5, 
Fig.  i.) 

This  dish  resembles  the  sirloin,  except  that  it  has  no  fillet  or  under- 
cut. The  mode  of  carving  is  similar  to  that  of  the  upper  cut  of  the 
sirloin,  viz.,  cut  in  slices  off  the  sides,  starting  at  the  thick  end  and 
through  to  the  other,  as  shown  in  Carving  Illustration  No.  5,  Fig.  i. 
This  joint  will  be  the  more  easily  cut  if  before  commencing  to  carve 
it  into  slices  the  knife  is  inserted  immediately  between  the  bone  and 
the  meat. 

2937.—  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF.  (Carving  Illustration  No. 
5,  Figs,   i  and  2.) 

This  dish  is  served  differently  at  various  tables,  some  preferring  it 
to  come  to  table  with  the  fillet,  or,  as  it  is  usually  called,  the  undercut, 
uppermost  (see  Fig.  2).  The  reverse  way,  as  shown  in  the  first  illustra- 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT  TABLE  1265 

tion,  is  that  most  usually  adopted.  Still  the  undercut  is  one  of  the 
primest  parts  of  beef  and  is  best  eaten  when  hot  ;  consequently,  the 
carver  himself  may  raise  the  joint,  and  cut  some  fairly  thick  slices 
out  of  the  under  side,  in  the  manner  shown  in  Fig.  2.  The  upper  part 
of  the  sirloin  should  be  cut  in  the  direction  that  the  knife  is  travelling 
in  Fig.  i ,  and  care  should  be  taken  to  carve  it  evenly  and  in  thin  slices. 
In  carving  this  joint,  the  knife  should  be  first  inserted  just  above  the 
bone  at  the  bottom,  and  run  sharply  along  between  the  bone  and 
meat,  and  also  to  divide  the  meat  from  the  bone  in  the  same  way 
at  the  side  of  the  joint.  The  slices  will  then  come  away  more  readily. 

2938.— ROUND     OF     BEEF.      (Carving      Illustration 
No.  5,  Fig.  3.) 

A  round  of  beef,  or  ribs  rolled,  are  not  so  easily  carved  as  some  joints, 
and  to  manage  properly,  a  thin-bladed  and  very  sharp  knife  is  necessary. 
Off  the  outside  of  the  joint,  at  its  top,  a  thick  slice  should  first  be  cut, 
so  as  to  leave  the  surface  smooth  ;  then  thin  and  even  slices  should  be 
carved  as  shown  in  the  illustration. 

Veal. 

2939.— BREAST  OF  VEAL. 

The  breast  of  veal  consists  of  two  parts — the  rib-bones  and  the 
gristly  brisket.  These  two  parts  should  first  be  separated  by  sharply 
passing  the  knife  through  the  centre  of  the  joint  ;  when  they  are 
entirely  divided,  the  rib-bones  should  each  be  detached  separately 
and  served.  The  brisket  can  be  helped  by  cutting  pieces  from  the 
centre  part  of  the  joint.  The  carver  should  ask  the  guests  whether 
they  have  a  preference  for  the  brisket  or  ribs. 

2940.— FILLET  OF  VEAL. 

The  carving  of  this  joint  is  similar  to  that  of  a  round  of  beef.  Slices, 
not  too  thick,  are  cut  ;  and  the  only  point  to  be  careful  about  is,  that 
the  veal  be  evenly  carved.  Between  the  flap  and  the  meat  the  stuffing 
is  inserted,  and  a  small  portion  of  this  should  be  served  to  every 
guest.  The  persons  whom  the  host  wishes  most  to  honour  should  be 
asked  if  they  like  the  brown  outside  slice,  as  this,  by  many,  is  exceed- 
ingly relished. 

2941  .—KNUCKLE  •  OF  VEAL. 

This  is  carved  in  the  same  manner  as  leg  of  mutton.     (See  illustration 
No.  7,  Fig.  i)  which  sufficiently  indicates  the  direction  which  should 
rn  to  the  knife.     The  best  slices  are  those  from  the  thickest  part 
knuckle,  that  is  the  part  \\  i  fork  is  shown  in  the  illustra- 

te.n. 


1266  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2942.— LOIN  OF  VEAL. 

As  is  the  case  with  a  loin  of  mutton,  the  careful  jointing  of  a  loin  of 
veal  is  more  than  half  the  battle  in  carving  it.  The  butcher  should 
be  warned  to  carefully  attend  to  this,  for  there  is  nothing  more  annoying 
or  irritating  to  an  inexperienced  carver  than  to  be  obliged  to  turn  his 
knife  in  all  directions  to  find  the  exact  place  where  it  should  be  inserted 
in  order  to  divide  the  bones.  When  jointing  is  properly  performed, 
there  is  little  difficulty  in  carrying  the  knife  across  and  separating  each 
chop.  To  each  guest  should  be  given  a  piece  of  the  kidney  and  kidney- 
fat,  which  lie  underneath,  and  are  considered  great  delicacies. 

2943. — CALF'S  HEAD.      (Carving  Illustration  No.   6, 
Fig.  i.) 

A  calf's  head  is  nearly  always  boned  before  serving,  and  is  then  cut 
into  slices  like  any  other  boned  and  rolled  joint,  but  the  illustration 
shows  the  method  of  carving  when  the  bones  have  not  been  removed. 
Cut  strips  from  the  ear  to  the  nose  ;  with  each  of  these  should  be  helped 
a  piece  of  what  is  called  the  throat  sweetbread,  cut  in  semi-circular 
form  from  the  throat  part.  The  eye,  and  the  flesh  round,  are  favourite 
morsels  with  many,  and  should  be  given  to  those  at  the  table  who  are 
known  to  be  the  greatest  connoisseurs.  The  jawbone  being  removed, 
there  will  then  be  found  some  nice  lean  ;  and  the  palate,  which  is 
reckoned  by  some  a  tit-bit,  lies  under  the  head.  On  a  separate  dish 
there  is  always  served  the  tongue  and  brains,  and  each  guest  should  be 
asked  to  take  some  of  these. 

Mutton    and    Lamb. 

2944.— FORE-QUARTER   OF    LAMB.  (Carving   Illus- 
tration No.  8,  Figs.  2  and  3.) 

In  carving  a  fore-quarter  of  lamb,  the  separation  of  the  shoulder 
from  the  breast  is  the  first  point  to  be  attended  to  ;  this  is  done  in  the 
manner  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and  then,  by  raising  with  a  little  force  the 
shoulder,  into  which  the  fork  should  be  firmly  fixed,  it  will  come  away 
with  just  a  little  more  exercise  of  the  knife.  In  dividing  the  shoulder 
and  breast  the  carver  should  take  care  not  to  cut  away  too  much  of 
the  meat  from  the  latter,  as  that  would  rather  spoil  its  appearance 
when  the  shoulder  is  removed.  Unless  the  whole  of  the  quarter  is  to 
be  cut  up,  the  shoulder  should  be  transtered  to  another  dish  and  put 
aside  to  be  served  cold.  The  joint  is  then  re,ady  to  be  served  to  the 
guests  ;  cutlets  are  carved  from  the  ribs  in  the  manner  shown  in  Fig.  3, 
and  the  shoulder  is  carved  in  the  usual  manner.  (See  illustration  No. 
7,  Figs.  2  and  3).  When  the  shoulder  is  being  used,  the  carver  may 
ask  those  at  the  table  which  parts  they  prefer,  ribs,  brisket,  or  a  piece 
of  shoulder,  or  he  may  serve  a  piece  of  shoulder  and  a  cutlet  in  each 
portion. 


CARVING    No.  7, 


I.  Leg  of  Mutton.         2.  Shoulder  of  Mutton.          3.  Shoulder  of  Mutton. 


CARVING   No*  8, 


I.  Saddle  of  Mutton.         2.  Forequarter  of  Lamb.         3.  Forequarter  of  Lamb. 
90 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT  TABLE  1267 

2945.—  LEG   OF   MUTTON.  (Carving   Illustration   No. 
7,  Fig-   I-) 


This  joint  is  almost  invariably  carved  in  the  manner  shown  in  the 
engraving.  The  carving  of  it  is  not  very  difficult  ;  the  knife  should  be 
carried  sharply  down,  and  slices  taken  from  either  side,  as  the  guests 
may  desire,  some  liking  the  knuckle-end  as  well  done,  and  others  pre- 
ferring the  more  underdone  part.  The  fat  should  be  sought  near  the 
bottom  corner  of  the  thick  end. 

2946.—  LOIN  OF  MUTTON. 

There  is  one  point  in  connection  with  carving  a  loin  of  mutton  \\hich 

is  necessary  with  all  other  similar  joints  ;   that  is,  that  it  should  be 

thoroughly  u«  11  jointed  by  the  butcher.     This  task  is'frequently  im- 

1\  performed;  therefore  it  is  advisable  to  examine  the  loin  before 

cooking  it,  and   carefully  joint    any  part    that    has    been    neglected. 

The  knife  should  be  inserted  in  the  thick  side  of  the  joint,  and  after 

•^  a  way  l>  lie  bones,  it  should  be  carried  sharply  through, 

i  chop  in  thr  same  manner.     As  there  are  some  people 

who  preler   tin-  outside  cut,  while  others  do  not  like  it,  they  should 

be  i|msii..!u-d  as  to  their  choice. 

2947.—  SADDLE    OF    MUTTON.   (Carving    Illustration 
No.  8,  Fig.   I.) 

In  order  of  excellence  the  saddle  of  mutton  may  be  said  to  rank  lirst. 

It  «>;  two  loins  connected  by  the  spinal  bone.     The  method 

adopted  in  carving  this  joint  is,  contrary  to  the  general  rule  of  cutting 

across  the  grain  ;  in  this  case,  the  meat  is  carved  across  the  ribs, 

in  slices  running  parallel  with  the  backbone  and  the  fibres  or  grain  of 

the  meat.      The  illustration  clearly  shows  what  is  meant.     Each  long 

slier  should  be  cut  across  into  two  or  tl  es,  according  to  its 

length  ;    and  with  each  portion  is  usually  served  a  small  piece  of  fat 

cut  from  the  bottom  of  the  ribs  where  the  joint  rests  on  the  dish,  and 

good  gravy.     Red  currant  jelly  is  served  separat 

2948.—  SHOULDER    OF    MUTTON.     (Carving    Illus- 
tration No.  7,  Figs.  2  and  3.) 

The  joint  should  d  from  the  dish  and  as  many  slices  cut 

taken  in  the    manner  >hmvn  in  Fig.  2;  afterwards  the 

lying  on    cither   side  of   the  bladebone   should   be   served,   by 

ig  from   the  knuckle  end.     The  uppermost  side  of  the  shoulder 

now    finished,   the    joint  should    be  turned,  and    slices  taken 


1268  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

off  along  its  whole  length.  There  are  some  who  prefer  the  under- 
side of  the  shoulder  for  its  juicy  flesh,  although  the  grain  of  the  meat 
is  not  so  fine  as  that  on  the  other  side,  and  this  is  served  in  the 
mannei  shown  in  Fig.  3. 

Pork. 

2949.— SUCKING-PIG. 

A  sucking-pig  seems,  at  first  sight,  an  elaborate  dish,  or  rather 
animal,  to  carve  ;  but,  by  carefully  mastering  the  details  of  the  busi- 
ness, every  difficulty  will  vanish  ;  and  if  a  partial  failure  be  at  first 
made,  yet  all  embarrassment  will  quickly  disappear  on  a  second  trial. 
A  sucking-pig  is  usually  sent  to  table  split  in  half  and  the  head  separ- 
ated from  the  body.  The  first  point  to  be  attended  to  is  to  separate 
the  shoulder  from  the  carcase,  which  is  done  in  the  same  way 
that  the  shoulder  of  a  forequarter  of  lamb  is  separated.  The 
next  step  is  to  take  off  the  leg  ;  and  this  is  done  in  the  same 
way.  The  ribs  then  stand  fairly  open  to  the  knife,  and  two  or  three 
helpings  will  dispose  of  these.  The  other  half  of  the  pig  is  served, 
of  course,  in  the  same  manner.  Different  parts  of  the  pig  are 
variously  esteemed  ;  some  preferring  the  flesh  of  the  neck  ;  others 
the  ribs,  and  others,  again,  the  shoulders.  The  truth  is,  the  whole 
of  a  sucking-pig  is  delicious,  delicate  eating  ;  but,  in  carving  it,  the 
host  should  consult  the  various  tastes  and  fancies  of  his  guests, 
keeping  the  larger  joints  generally  for  the  gentlemen  of  the  party. 

2950. — HAM.  (Carving  Illustration  No.  6,  Fig.  3.) 

In  cutting  a  ham,  the  carver  must  be  guided  according  as  he  desires 
to  practise  economy,  or  have,  at  once,  fine  slices  out  of  the  prime  part. 
Under  the  first  supposition,  he  will  commence  at  the  knuckle  end, 
and  cut  off  thin  slices  towards  the  thick  part  of  the  ham,  slanting  the 
knife  from  the  thick  part  to  the  knuckle.  To  reach  the  choicer  portion, 
the  knife,  which  must  be  very  sharp  and  thin,  should  be  carried  quite 
down  to  the  bone,  at  the  centre  of  the  ham,  which  is  then  carved  in 
the  manner  shown  in  the  illustration.  A  ham,  either  hot  or  cold,  is 
sent  to  table  with  a  paper  ruffle  round  the  knuckle. 

2951.— LEG  OF  PORK. 

This  joint,  which  is  such  a  favourite  one  with  many  people,  is  easy 
to  carve.  The  knife  should  be  carried  sharply  down  to  the  bone,  clean 
through  the  crackling,  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  that  described 
for  leg  of  mutton.  Sage  and  onion  and  apple  sauce  are  usually 
sent  to  table  with  this  dish — sometimes  the  leg  of  pork  is  stuffed — 
and  the  guests  should  be  asked  if  they  will  have  either  or  both.  A 
frequent  plan,  and  we  think  a  good  one,  is  now  pursued  of  sending 
sage  and  onion  to  table  separately  from  the  joint,  as  it  is  not  every- 
body to  whom  the  flavour  of  this  stuffing  is  agreeable. 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT  TABLE  1269 

2952.— LOIN  OF  PORK. 

As  with  a  loin  of  mutton,  it  is  essential  a  loin  of  pork  should  be 
properly  jointed  before  cooking,  and  the  crackling  must  be  scored. 
These  points  being  attended  to,  there  is  no  difficulty  in  carving  the 
joint,  which  is  divided  into  neat  and  even  chops. 

Note. — The  other  dishes  of  pork  do  not  call  for  any  special  remarks  as  to 
their  carving  or  helping. 

Poultry. 

2953.— ROAST    DUCK.  (Carving    Illustration    No.    9, 
Fig-  3-) 

No  dishes  require  so  much  knowledge  and  skill  in  carving  as  game 
and  poultry,  for  it  is  necessary  to  be  well  acquainted  with  the  anatomy 
of  the  bird  and  animal  in  order  to  place  the  knife  at  exactly  the  proper 
point.  A  young  duck  or  duckling  is  carved  in  the  same  manner  as  a 
chicken.  First  remove  the  wings,  then  the  breast  should  be  cut 
off  the  bone  in  one  slice  or  several  slices  if  very  plump.  The  legs 
are  next  removed  and  divided  at  the  joints  ;  and  unless  a  contrary 
request  has  been  made  by  the  person  for  whom  the  portion  is 
intended,  the  foot  and  the  bone  to  which  it  is  attached,  should  be  cut 
off  before  serving.  When  stuffing  has  been  introduced,  the  skin  should 
be  cut  across  and  the  farce  scooped  out  with  a  spoon.  As  to  the  prime 
parts  of  a  duck,  "  the  wings  of  a  flyer  and  the  legs  of  a  swimmer  "  are 
generally  considered  the  best  portions. 

2954. — BOILED  FOWL.  (Carving  Illustration  No.  10, 
Figs.  2   and  3.) 

Though  the  legs  of  a  boiled  fowl  are  hidden  beneath  the  skin,  the 
method  of  carving  is  not  affected,  and  the  following  directions  may  be 
applied  to  birds  either  roasted  or  boiled.  The  fork  should  be  inserted 
firmly  in  the  breast  of  the  bird,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  a  downward 
cut  made  between  the  thigh  and  the  body,  after  which  an  outward 
turn  of  the  blade  of  the  knife  usually  detaches  the  leg  sufficiently  to 
allow  the  joint  connecting  it  to  the  body  to  be  easily  severed.  With 
the  fork  still  inserted  in  the  breast,  the  next  step  should  be  to  remove 
the  wings.  In  doing  this  a  good  carver  will  contrive  by  cutting  widely, 
but  not  deeply,  over  the  adjacent  part  of  the  breast,  to  give  to  the 
wing  the  desired  shape  without  depriving  the  breast  of  much  of  its 
flesh.  When  carving  a  large  fowl  the  breast  may  be  sliced,  otherwise 
it  should  be  separated  from  the  back  by  cutting  through  the  rib-bones, 
the  only  difficulty  in  carving  this  part  being  the  small  hinge-bones 
near  the  neck.  The  breast  should  be  cut  across  in  half,  thus  provid- 
ing two  portions,  to  which  may  be  added,  when  a  larger  helping  is 
•1,  a  slice  off  tlir  thigh.  Cut  lengthwise  into  rather  thin  slices. 


1270  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  legs  may  be  satisfactorily  disposed  of  even  when  those  to  be 
served  consist  of  persons  to  whom  a  whole  leg  could  not  be 
offered.  To  conclude  the  carving,  the  back  should  be  turned  over 
with  the-cut  side  to  the  dish,  and  if  the  knife  be  pressed  firmly  across  the 
centre  of  it,  and  the  neck  raised  at  the  same  time  with  the  fork,  the 
back  is  easily  dislocated  about  the  middle.  To  remove  the  sockets  of  the 
thigh- joints  (the  side-bones  to  which  is  attached  choice  morsels  of 
dark-coloured  flesh)  the  tail  part  of  the  back  must  be  stood  on  end, 
and  held  firmly  by  means  of  the  .fork,  'while  the  bones  are  cut  off  on 
either  side.  The  more  highly  esteemed  parts  of  a  fowl  are  the  breast, 
wings  and  merrythought  ;  the  thigh  may  be  served  to  a  gentleman, 
but  the  drum  sticks  should  be  put  aside,  and  used  afterwards  in  some 
way  that  necessitates  the  flesh  being  minced. 

A  fowl  when  boned  and  stuffed,  is  usually  cut  across  in  slices. 

2955.— ROAST   FOWL.  (Carving   Illustration   No.    10, 
Fig.   i.) 

Fowls,  when  roasted,  are  carved  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  when 
boiled,  therefore  the  foregoing  directions  and  illustrations  render  it 
unnecessary  to  describe  the  operation  again.  When  the  liver  and  giz- 
zard have  been  trussed  and  cooked  with  the  fowl,  the  wing  to  which  the 
liver  is  attached  may  be  regarded  as  the  choice  portion  of  the  bird,  and 
should  be  offered  to  the  person  entitled  to  the  most  consideration  in  this 
respect.  When  the  fowl  is  stuffed,  a  little  forcemeat  should  be  served 
with  each  portion,  but  when  convenient,  it  is  better  to  hand  the  gravy 
and  bread  sauce  separately. 

2956.— ROAST  GOOSE. 

The  breast  of  a  goose  is  the  part  most  esteemed,  therefore  when 
the  bird  is  larger  than  is  necessary  to  meet  the  requirements  of  one 
meal,  it  frequently  happens  that  the  carving  is  confined  solely  to  the 
breast.  The  carver  should,  however,  consult  the  tastes  of  those  he 
is  serving  with  reference  to  choice  of  parts,  for  the  leg  is  sometimes  pre- 
ferred. A  large  number  of  slices  may  be  cut  off  the  breast,  and  as  the 
wing  is  the  part  least  esteemed,  the  flesh  of  the  upper  part  of  it  may 
with  advantage  be  included  in  the  slices  cut  from  the  breast.  When 
onion  farce  has  been  employed  it  is  advisable  to  ascertain  if  it  be 
agreeable  to  the  taste  of  the  person  for  whom  the  portion  of  goose  is 
intended,  for  so  many  dislike  the  farce  itself,  although  they  may  like 
the  flavour  imparted  to  the  bird  by  its  use.  The  directions  given 
for  carving  a  boiled  fowl  may  be  applied  here,  although  greater 
force  will  most  probably  be  required  in  detaching  the  various  parts. 
When  the  goose  is  stuffed  with  onion  farce  it  is  nearly  always  accom- 
panied by  apple  sauce  and  gravy,  both  of  which  should,  when  con- 
venient, be  handed  separately. 


CARVING    No.  9, 


ist  Turkry.          2.   Roast  Turkey.          3.    Ko.ist  Duck. 


CARVING  No.   10. 


I.  Roast  Fowl.         2.  Boiled  Fowl.         3.  Boiled  Fowl. 


02 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT  TABLE  1271 

2957.—ROAST    TURKEY.  (Carving    Illustration    No. 
9,  Figs,   i  and  2.) 

A  small  turkey  may  be  carved  in  the  same  manner  as  a  large  fowl, 
(see  directions  for  carving  the  same)  ;  and  no  bird  is  more  easily  carved 
than  a  large  turkey,  for  the  breast  alone  may,  when  properly  carved, 
be  made  to  serve  a  large  number  of  persons.  If  more  meat  is  required 
than  the  breast  provides,  the  upper  part  of  the  wing  should  be  served. 
When  it  is  necessary  for  the  legs  to  be  carved,  they  should  be  severed 
from  the  body  and  then  cut  into  slices.  The  forcemeat  in  the  crop 
of  the  bird  should  be  carved  across  in  thin  slices  ;  and  when  the  body 
is  stuffed,  the  apron  should  be  cut  across. 

A  boiled  turkey  is  carved  in  the  same  manner  as  when  roasted. 

2958.— PIGEON. 

A  very  straightforward  plan  is  adopted  in  carving  a  pigeon  ;  the 
knife  is  carried  entirely  through  the  centre  of  the  bird,  cutting  it  into 
two  precisely  equal  and  similar  parts.  If  it  is  necessary  to  make  three 
pieces  of  it,  a  small  wing  should  be  cut  off  with  the  leg  on  either  side, 
thus  serving  two  guests  ;  and,  by  this  means,  there  will  be  sufficient 
meat  left  on  the  breast  to  send  to  the  third  guest. 

2959. — RABBITS. 

In  carving  a  boiled  rabbit,  the  knife  should  be  drawn  on  each  side 
of  the  backbone,  the  whole  length  of  the  rabbit,  thus  separating  the 
rabbit  into  three  parts.  Now  divide  the  back  into  two  equal  parts, 
thru  let  the  leg  be  taken  off,  and  next  the  shoulder.  This,  in  our 
opinion,  is  an  easy  way  to  carve  a  rabbit,  although  there  are  other 
modes  e«ju  illy  practical. 

A  roast  rabbit  is  rather  differently  trussed  from  one  that  is  meant  to 
be  boiled  ;  but  the  carving  is  nearly  similar.  The  back  should  be 
divided  into  as  many  pieces  as  it  will  give,  and  the  legs  and  shoulders 
can  then  be  disengaged  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of  the  boiled 
animal. 

Game. 

2960.— BLACKCOCK. 

The  brains  of  this  bird  are  highly  esteemed  by  many,  and  for  this 

i  the  head  is  frequently  trussed  on  one  side  of  the  bird,  but  this  is 

entirely   a    matter   of  choice.     The   method   of  carving  blackcock  is 

identical   with   that  for  Boiled   Foul.     The  breast  and  the  thigh  are 

esteemed  ;   the  latter  may  be  cut  lengthwise  into  thin 

<1  whole. 

2961.— WILD  DUCK. 

a  dainty,  and  not  as  a  dish 

'itc\  these  dishc<  are  not 


1272         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

usually  cut  up  entirely,  but  only  those  parts  are  served  of  each  which 
are  considered  the  best  flavoured  and  the  primest.  Of  wild  fowl,  the 
breast  alone  is  considered  by  epicures  worth  eating,  and  slices  are  cut ; 
if  necessary,  the  leg  and  wing  can  be  taken  off  by  generally  following 
the  directions  described  for  carving  boiled  fowl. 

2962. — ROAST   HARE.  (Carving   Illustration   No.  n, 
Figs,  i,  2  and  3.) 

Place  the  hare  on  the  dish  with  the  head  at  the  left  hand.  Make  an 
incision,  and  cut  along  the  spinal  bone  from  about  the  centre  of  the 
back  to  the  end.  Then  cut  through  the  side  and  middle,  and  remove 
the  portion  shown  in  Fig  i.  The  part  it  is  removed  from  is  more 
clearly  seen  in  Fig  2.  Then  cutoff  the  hind  leg  in  the  manner  shown 
in  Fig  2,  and  afterwards  the  foreleg  or  wing,  ms  Fig  3.  It  is  the  usual 
plan  not  to  serve  any  bone  in  helping  hare  ;  and  thus  the  flesh  should 
be  sliced  from  the  legs  and  placed  alone  on  the  plate.  In  large  establish- 
ments, and  where  men  cooks  are  kept,  it  is  often  the  case  that  the 
backbone  of  the  hare,  especially  in  old  animals,  is  taken  out,  and  then 
the  process  of  carving  is,  of  course,  considerably  facilitated.  A  great 
point  to  be  remembered  in  connection  with  carving  hare  is,  that  plenty 
of  gravy  should  accompany  each  helping  ;  otherwise  this  dish,  which 
is  naturally  dry,  will  lose  half  its  flavour,  and  so  become  a  failure. 
Stuffing  is  also  served  with  it  ;  and  the  ears,  which  should  be  nicely  crisp, 
and  the  brains  of  the  hare,  are  esteemed  as  delicacies  by  many. 

2963.— GROUSE. 

Grouse  may  be  carved  in  the  way  first  described  in  carving  partridge. 
The  backbone  of  the  grouse  is  highly  esteemed  by  many,  and  this  part 
of  many  game  birds  is  considered  to  possess  the  finest  flavour. 

2964.— PARTRIDGES. 

There  are  several  ways  of  carving  this  bird.  The  usual  method  is 
to  carry  the  knife  sharply  along  the  top  of  the  breastbone  and  cut  it 
quite  through,  thus  dividing  the  bird  into  two  equal  parts.  When 
smaller  portions  are  desired  the  bird  is  sometimes  divided  into  three 
parts.  The  legs  and  wings  may  be  easily  severed  from  the  body  in  the 
manner  described  for  boiled  fowl,  while  the  breast,  of  removed  intact, 
will  provide  a  third  helping.  Another  easy  and  expeditious  way  of 
carving  birds  of  this  description  is  to  cut  them  through  the  bones 
lengthwise  and  across,  thus  forming  four  portions.  A  piece  of  toast 
should  accompany  each  portion  of  bird  ;  sometimes  the  fried  bread- 
crumbs, bread  sauce  and  gravy  are  added  by  the  carver,  but  it  is  much 
better  to  hand  them  separately. 


CARVING  No    11. 


Roast  Hare. 


ENTREES. 


i.  Ragout  of  Veal.     2.  Mutton  Cutlets  with  Cauliflower.     3.  Tournedos  of 
Beef  with  Stuffed  Olives. 


THE  ART  OF  CARVING  AT  TABLE  1273 

2965.— PHEASANT. 

The  choice  parts  of  a  pheasant  are  the  breast  and  wings.  The  various 
members  of  the  bird  are  severed  from  the  body  in  exactly  the  same 
manner  as  those  of  a  roast  or  boiled  fowl,  and  to  avoid  repetition  the 
reader  is  referred  to  those  directions  on  pp.  1269-1270. 

2966.— SNIPE. 

One  of  these  small  but  delicious  birds  may  be  given  whole  to  a  gentle- 
man ;  but  in  helping  a  lady,  it  will  be  better  to  cut  them  quite  through 
the  centre,  completely  dividing  them  into  equal  and  like  portions,  and 
put  only  one  half  on  the  plate. 

2967.— HAUNCH  OF  VENISON. 

A  carver  of  average  ability  will  have  little  or  no  difficulty  in  cutting 
up  this  joint.  An  incision  being  made  completely  down  to  the  bone,  the 
gravy  will  then  be  able  easily  to  flow  ;  when  slices,  not  too  thick,  should 
be  cut  along  the  haunch,  the  thick  end  of  the  joint  having  been  turned 
towards  the  carver,  so  that  he  may  have  a  more  complete  command 
over  the  joint.  Although  some  epicures  are  of  opinion  that  some 
parts  of  the  haunch  are  better  than  others,  yet  we  doubt  if  there  is  any 
ncc  between  the  slices  cut  above  and  below  the  incision  that  the 
carver  makes.  Each  guest  should  be  served  with  a  portion  of  fat  ; 
and  the  most  expeditious  carver  is  the  best  carver,  as,  like  mutton, 
venison  soon  begins  to  chill,  when  it  loses  much  of  its  excellence. 

2968.— WOODCOCK. 

This  bird,  like  a  partridge,  may  be  carved  by  cutting  it  exactly  into 
two  like  portions,  or  made  into  three  helpings,  as  described  in  carving 
partridge.  The  backbone  is  considered  the  tit-bit  of  a  woodcock,  and 
by  many  the  thigh  is  also  thought  a  great  delicacy.  This  bird  is  served 
in  the  manner  advised  by  Brillat  Savarin  in  connection  with  the 
pheasant — viz.,  on  toast  which  has  received  its  dripping  whilst  toast- 
ing ;  and  a  piece  of  this  toast  should  invariably  accompany  each  plate. 

2969.— LANDRAIL. 

Landrail,  being  trussed  like  Snipe,  with  the  exception  of  its  being 

:i,  may  be  carved  in  the  same  manner. 
Ortolans  are  usually  helped  whole,  but  may  be  divided  for  ladies. 

Snipe.) 

2970.— PTARMIGAN. 

Ptarmigan  may  be  carved  in  the  same  way  as  Grouse  and  Partridge, 


1274  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2971.— QUAILS. 

Quails,  being  trussed  and  served  like  woodcock,  may  be  similarly 
carved. 

2972.— PLOVERS. 

Plovers  may  be  carved  like  quails  or  woodcock,  being  trussed  and 
served  in  the  same  way  as  those  birds. 

Teal  and  Widgeon.  Both  these  birds  are  trussed  and  served  like 
Wild  Duck,  and  should  be  similarly  carved. 


FARINACEOUS  PREPARA- 
TIONS 

CHAPTER    XL 

2973.— CURRIED  RICE.     (Fr.— Riz  a  1'Indienne.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  rice,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tomato,  2  finely- 
chopped  shallots,  i  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder,  i  tablespoonful  of 
cream,  i  hard-boiled  egg,  i  gill  of  stock,  i  gill  of  brown  sauce,  salt  and 
pepper,  mace,  nutmeg,  watercress. 

Method. — Pick,  wash,  drain,  and  dry  the  rice  thoroughly.  Fry  the 
shallots  slightly  in  hot  butter,  sprinkle  in  the  curry-powder,  cook  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  add  the  rice  and  cook  and  shake  well  over  the  fire. 
Now  add  the  tomatoes  skinned  and  cut  into  dice,  the  stock,  cream  and 
sauce,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  mace  and  nutmeg,  and  cook 
gently  until  the  rice  is  tender,  adding  more  stock  or  sauce,  if  necessary, 
to  prevent  the  rice  becoming  too  dry.  When  ready  pile  on  a  hot  dish, 
garnish  with  slices  of  hard-boiled  egg  and  tufts  of  watercress,  and 
serve. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  <jd.  Sufficient 
for  i  large  dish.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2974.— GNOCCHI    A    LA    RUSSE.     (Russian  Savoury 
Batter.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  gill  of  white  wine,  6  ozs.  of  butter, 
ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  grated   Parmesan  cheese,   3   eggs,   paprika 
per,  white  pepper,  salt,  £  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces, 
No.  177). 

Method. — Place  the  milk  and  wine  in  a  stewpan;  when  hot  add  half 
the  butter  and  let  it  boil  up,  then  put  in  the  flour,  and  cook  and  work 
vigorously  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan 
clear.  Allow  it  to  cool  slightly,  then  beat  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time, 
season  to  taste  with  paprika  pepper,  white  pepper  and  salt,  add  half 
tlu-  (  hcese,  and  finally  the  remainder  of  the  butter.  Shape  the  mixtures 
into  ijucnelles  (see  Veal  Quenelles),  and  poach  them  for  15  to  20  minutes 
in  boiling  salted  water  or  well-seasoned  stock,  keeping  the  saucepan 
•<1.  Drain  well,  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  coat  them  with  hot 


1276  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


Bechamel  sauce,  to  which  the  remainder  of  the  cheese  has  been  added, 
and  serve  hot. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2975.— GNOCCHI   AU   GRATIN.     (Russian  Dish). 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  water,  3  ozs.  of  flour  (or  2  ozs.  of  florador), 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  3  ozs.  of  grated  cheese,  3  ozs.  of  chopped  ham,  2  eggs, 
paprika  pepper,  salt,  \  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  177). 

Method. — Put  the  water,  butter,  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt  into  a  stew- 
pan  ;  when  boiling  stir  in  the  flour  or  florador,  and  work  vigorously 
over  the  fire  until  it  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan  clear.  Allow  it  to 
cool  slightly,  then  beat  in  the  eggs  separately,  and  add  the  ham  and 
2  ozs.  of  cheese.  Shape  the  mixture  into  quenelles  (see  Veal  .Quenelles), 
poach  them  for  about  10  minutes  in  salted  boiling  water,  and  drain 
well.  When  cool,  arrange  them  in  a  buttered  gratin-dish,  or  any 
baking-dish  that  may  be  sent  to  table,  pour  over  the  Bechamel  sauce, 
sprinkle  on  the  remainder  of  the  cheese,  and  season  well  with  paprika 
pepper.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  10  minutes,  and  serve. 

Time. —  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2976.— ITALIAN  RISOLETTI. 

Ingredients. — Risotto  (see  Recipe  No.  2977),  meat  mixture,  egg, 
breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Prepare  the  risotto  as  directed,  and  allow  it  to  become  cold. 
Have  ready  a  meat  mixture,  prepared  according  to  any  of  the  recipes 
for  rissoles,  croquettes,  etc.  When  cold,  cover  small  portions  of  it 
with  risotto,  shaping  them  in  the  form  of  a  ball  or  cork.  Dip  them 
in  egg,  coat  with  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  them  brown  in  hot  fat.  Drain 
well,  pile  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — Altogether,  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.,  exclusive  of  the 
meat  mixture.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2977.— ITALIAN  RISOTTO. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  Patna  rice,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  i  finely-chopped  small  onion,  i  pint  of  tomato  sauce 
(see  Sauces,  No.  281),  \  a  teaspoonful  of  saffron,  salt  and  pepper,  nut- 
meg. 

Method. — Wash,  drain,  and  dry  the  rice  thoroughly  in  a  clean  cloth. 
Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  onion,  and  when  lightly  browned 
add  the  rice,  and  shake  the  pan  over  the  fire  for  about  10  minutes. 
Now  sprinkle  in  the  saffron,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  a  level  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  £  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Cover  with  stock,  and  cook 


FARINACEOUS  PREPARATIONS  1277 

»riillv  i«»i    about    i    hour,  .iddni"    nie.imvlnl.-    the   tOm&tO  SattCfi   and   .is 
iniuli  I  In-   rice    will  absorb,   the    SattCe   l»  in-.;   added   when   the 

.d.oul     half    rooked.      Ju  <t     \»  Eo  ;  ir    in    the    i  ; 

ivoury  rice  is   fivqm-nily   used    l«>r  lx>rdcrs    instead  of  plainly- 

boii<  d  in  e  or  MM  !:«•(!  potato. 

Time.— i£   hours.      Average    Cost,    oxi.      Sufficient    for    i    largo    di-.h. 
Seasonable  at  anv  time. 

2978.— ITALIAN  RAVIOLIS. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  nouill<    j>i  te  (see  No.  2984).     For  the 

>/.S.  Of  C0ok«-d  <  hi<  l.ru.   i   <>/  d  ham,   \  an  oz.  of 

•  M.ili-d   I'.uiih    ,111  <  !:•  >   .c,   i    v«'lk  ot  (•-.;•.',   I    tablcspoonfnl  of  tliirk  (Tram, 

I  a  tf.LsjKM.nfui  ot  finely-chopped  p  ''  -md  j>«-i'p.-r.  nut 

,t  ot  toma 

C,  l>ult<T,  brown   i 

Method.     1  'ound  1 1  rce  in  a  mortar  an  til  smooth, 

;in-    to   i  p   nib  through  ,i  linr  M«  \  •  .      M.ikr  tin-  nouilli* 

d  in  recipe  No.  2984;  \vln-n  ic.id\    !oi    UM-,  roll  it  out  as 
thinly    as    ;  np   OUt   some    louiuN    about     i\    iiu  i 

di.uix-trr.      1M.K  c   a  SUM!!    t. •,    poonful   of   thr    fan  <•   in    ; 

.      Cover  each  one  with   another  round,  and    pics',   tin 
well    toMi-ilu-r.      Put    them    into   rapidly  boil  in  r  P,   boil    I-T 

about    tO   minutes   liom    the    time    ih.  li.un    well. 

Now  place   in   1  a   well  butter  '.iv  r   with 

tomalo    lance    and    a    good    S|  the    top 

thn  kly  with  sau< c,  sj.nnkle  well  with  brown  I 

ot  butt.  "lit   io  minute,, 

hot, 

Time.— To  bake  th«'  raviolis,    i..mmules.     Average    Cost,    js.     Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  .it  anv  time. 

2979.— MACARONI  A  LA  NAPOLITAINE. 

Ingredients.     _',  a  li>.  of  m.u  aroni,  J  Ot*,  <»l  :;iaN  <l  »  beeie,  i  oz.  of  butter, 

j.illloil',.  aUCCNo.  I77.J  of.ij'inl   •  l.lblr- 

iul  ot  imeiv  «  hopped  h.iiii  or  toii'-ue,  j  a  shallot  finely-chopped, 
Method.     Break  the  macaroni  into  ahorl  :  it  them  into  rapidly 

boiliiii;  sail                  r,  and  cook  until  tend           :                          'lot    in   the 

thoul  browning,  add  \\.  and  tomato  sauces,  h.im 

or  tOS  'id  siii   ovet  the  ine 

until  thoiou;;hl\-  ho  «h-li  with  the  croutons 

!  toiiiid  li 

Tlmo.     About    '    .in    hour.      Average  Cost,   is.      Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
us.     Seasonable  at  any  tin:-. 


1278  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2980.— MACARONI  AND  CHEESE,  A   L'lTALIENNE. 

(Fr. — Macaroni  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  grated  cheese,  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet, 

2  ozs.  of  macaroni,  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper,  \  a  pint  of  tomato  or  white 
sauce  (see  Sauces,  No  281). 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  short  lengths,  put  it  into  boiling 
water,  and  cook  until  tender.  Mix  together  the  cheese,  suet  and 
macaroni,  season  to  taste,  add  the  eggs  and  beat  well,  then  turn  the 
mixture  into  a  buttered  mould  or  basin.  Steam  for  about  i£  hours, 
and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  round. 

Time. — From  if  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2981.— MACARONI  AND  TOMATOES.    (Fr.— Macaroni 
aux  Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  tomatoes  fresh  or  tinned,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  short  lengths,  put  it  into  rapidly 
boiling  salted  water,  and  cook  until  tender.  Prepare  \  a  pint  of 
tomato  puree  by  passing  the  tomatoes  through  a  fine  sieve.  Melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  a  few  minutes,  then  put 
in  the  tomato  puree,  a  good  pinch  of  sugar,  and  season  to  taste.  Let 
it  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  macaroni,  and  when  thoroughly 
hot  turn  on  to  a  dish,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  40  to  45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  2  or 

3  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2982.— MACARONI  AU  GRATIN. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  4  ozs.  of  grated  cheese,  i  pint  of 
white  sauce  (see  Sauces),  butter,  brown  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  pieces  about  i£  inches  long,  put 
them  into  rapidly  boiling  salted  water  and  boil  for  about  20  minutes, 
or  until  the  macaroni  is  tender.  If  not  required  for  immediate  use, 
cover  the  macaroni  with  cold  water  to  prevent  the  pieces  sticking 
together.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  well-buttered  baking-dish  with  white 
sauce,  sprinkle  liberally  with  cheese,  and  add  a  layer  of  macaroni. 
Repeat  these  processes;  cover  the  last  layer  of  macaroni  thickly  with 
sauce,  sprinkle  the  entire  surface  lightly  with  brown  breadcrumbs, 
and  add  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about 
20  minutes,  then  serve  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is  cooked. 

Time. — To  bake  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


FARINACEOUS  PREPARATIONS  1279 

2983.— MACARONI    WITH    BECHAMEL    SAUCE. 

(Fr. — Macaroni  a  la  Bechamel.) 

Ingredients.  — 4  ozs.  of  macaroni,  i  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  2  yolks  of 
eggs,  \  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  177),  £  a  gill  of  cream, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  short  pieces,  and  boil  them  in 
salted  water  until  tender.  Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  add  the  pre- 
pared macaroni,  the  cheese,  and  the  cream  and  yolks  of  eggs,  previously 
mixed  together.  Season  to  taste,  stir  and  cook  gently  until  the  eggs 
thicken,  but  do  not  let  the  mixture  boil.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  a 
little  grated  cheese  scattered  over  the  top. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  9d.  or  lod.  Sufficient  for  5 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2984.— NOUILLE  OR  NOODLE   PASTE.      Also   called 
Ribbon  Macaroni.     (Fr — Pate  a  Nouilles.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  flour,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  3  yolks  of  eggs  (or  2 
small  whole  eggs),  a  little  milk  or  water,  salt. 

Method. — Sieve  the  flour  on  to  a  pastry  slab  or  into  a  basin,  make  a 
well  in  the  centre  and  put  in  the  butter,  eggs  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt. 
Mix  thoroughly,  and  add  a  little  milk  or  water  if  necessary,  but  the 
paste  should  be  rather  stiff.  Knead  well  for  about  15  minutes,  or 
until  the  paste  is  perfectly  smooth  and  elastic,  then  use  as  required. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  or  /d.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2985.-  NOUILLES   AND   EGGS.  (Fr.— Oeufs  aux, 

Nouilles  a  la  Carola.) 

Ingredients. —  \  a  Ib.  of  nouille  paste  No.  2984,  4  hard-boiled  eggs, 
£  a  Ib.  of  mushrooms,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  £  of  a 
pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces),  butter. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  nouilles  as  directed  in  Nouilles  an 
Gratin,  and  when  well  drained  toss  them  over  the  fire  in  a  little  butter. 
Prepare  the  mushrooms,  and  cook  them  for  8  or  10  minutes  in  hot 
butter,  cut  the  eggs  into  slices.  Place  a  layer  of  nouilles  in  the  bottom 
of  a  well-buttered  fireproof  dish,  season  with  pepper  and  a  little  nut- 
meg, and  sprinkle  liberally  with  cheese.  Cover  with  slices  of  egg,  add 
seasoning,  then  another  layer  of  nouilles,  and  finally  the  mushrooms. 
Spread  th<>  white  sauce  over  the  entire  surface,  sprinkle  well  with 
chtH-sc,  add  a  few  small  pieces  of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  sharp  oven  for 
10  or  15  minutes.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  baked. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd,  to  zs.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  tiim-. 


1280  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2986.— NOUILLES  AU   GRATIN: 

Ingredients. — For  the  paste  :  \  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  3 
yolks  of  eggs.  White  sauce,  grated  cheese,  butter,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Prepare  the  paste  as  directed  in  Recipe  No.  2984,  and  let 
it  stand  for  at  least  i  hour.  When  ready  for  use,  roll  out  the  paste 
as  thinly  as  possible,  cut  it  into  long  strips,  2  or  3  inches  wide,  place 
them  on  the  top  of  each  other,  and  cut  them  into  filaments  not  more 
than  \  of  an  inch  wide.  Shake  them  well  in  a  little  flour  to  separate 
and  slightly  coat  them,  put  them  into  rapidly  boiling  salted  water, 
boil  for  10  minutes,  drain  well,  and  let  them  cool.  Spread  i  or  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  white  sauce  on  the  bottom  of  a  gratin-dish  or  baking-dish, 
which  may  be  sent  to  table,  cover  with  a  layer  of  nouilles,  sprinkle 
thickly  with  grated  cheese,  add  a  few  drops  of  liquid  butter,  and  a  little 
seasoning.  Repeat  until  the  nouilles  are  used,  cover  the  last  layer 
thickly  with  white  sauce,  sprinkle  with  breadcrumbs,  and  add  a  few 
bits  of  butter.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  10  minutes,  then 
serve. 

Time. —  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2987.-  RICE,    FLORENTINE   STYLE.     (Fr.—Riz  a  la 
Florentine.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  Patna  rice,  i£  pints  of  stock  (about),  £of  a  pint 
of  picked  shrimps,  i  \  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonf ul  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  i  teaspoonful  of  curry-paste,  i  medium-sized  Spanish  onion 
finely-chopped,  salt  and  pepper,  Krona  pepper,  finely-chopped  parsley. 

Method. — Pick,  wash,  blanch  and  drain  the  rice,  cook  and  stir 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  cover  with  stock,  add  curry-paste,  salt,  pepper, 
and  cayenne  to  taste,  and  simmer  until  tender.  Add  more  stock  when 
necessary,  and  when  the  rice  is  nearly  tender  let  it  cook  uncovered 
to  allow  some  of  the  moisture  to  escape  :  as  it  becomes  dry  frequent 
stirring  will  be  necessary  to  prevent  the  rice  sticking  to  the  bottom 
of  the  stewpan.  A  few  minutes  before  serving  add  the  cheese,  shrimps 
cut  in  halves,  salt  and  pepper  if  necessary,  and  stir  gently  until  thor- 
oughly hot.  Serve  piled  on  a  hot  dish,  garnished  with  Krona  pepper 
and  finely-chopped  parsley. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2988.— RICE,  POLISH  STYLE.    (Fr.— Riz  a  la  Polon- 
aise.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  Patna  rice,  i£  pints  of  stock  (about),  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  finely-shredded  cooked  ham,  i  tablespoonful  of  grated 


FARINACEOUS  PREPARATIONS  1281 

Parmesan  cheese,  i|  ozs.  of  butter,  4  small  mild  onions,  salt  and  pepper, 
cayenne,  finely-chopped  'parsley. 

Method. — Pick,  wash,  blanch  and  drain  the  rice,  replace  it  in  the 
stewpan,  cover  with  stock,  and  simmer  gently  until  tender,  adding 
more  stock  as  that  in  the  pan  boils  away.  When  the  rice  is  nearly 
ready  heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  onions  thinly  sliced, 
fry  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then  add  the  ham  and  the 
rice.  Season  to  taste,  as  soon  as  the  rice  is  sufficiently  dry  stir 
in  the  cheese,  let  it  cook  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  pile  the  preparation 
on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  with  parsley,  and  serve. 

Time. —  i  J  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2989.— RICE,   POLONAISE  STYLE.      (Fr.— Riz  a  la 
Polonaise.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  Caroiine  rice,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  quart  of  stock, 
3  finely-chopped  shallots,  a  small  onion  stuck  with  3  cloves,  5  or  6 
small  firm  tomatoes,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pick  the  rice  and  rub  it  well  with  a  clean  cloth,  but  do  not 
wash  it.  Place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the  butter,  fry  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  put  in  the  shallots,  and  when  lightly  browned  add  the  stock, 
onion,  and  tomatoes  sliced;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook 
gently  for  about  i  hour.  A  few  minutes  before  serving  remove  the 
onion,  add  the  cheese  and  more  seasoning  if  necessary.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  iod.,  exclusive  of  the  stock.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2990.— RICE,  QUEEN'S  STYLE.   (Fr.— Riz  a  la  Reine.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  rice,  i£  pints  of  stock  (about),  3  tablespoonfuls 
of  finely-flaked  cooked  smoked  haddock,  i£  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
grated  cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pick,  wash,  blanch  and  drain  the  rice,  replace  it  in  the 
stewpan  with  i  pint  of  well-seasoned  stock,  and  cook  gently  until 
tender,  adding  more  stock  if  necessary  to  prevent  the  rice  from  be- 
coming too  dry.  A  few  minutes  before  serving  add  the  cheese  and  fish, 
and  season  to  taste.  Pile  on  a  dish,  brown  in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1|  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  stock. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2991.— RICE  AND  TOMATOES.       (Fr.—Riz  aux  To- 
mates.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  rice,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  grated  cheese, 
3  small  firm  tomatoes,  i  onion  stuck  with  a  clove,  2  finely-chopped 
shallots,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  gill  of  stock, 

T  T 


1282  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2  gills  of  tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  281),  mace,  salt  and  pepper, 
cayenne. 

Method. — Pick,  wash,  and  blanch  the  rice  in  salted  water.  Drain 
well,  replace  in  the  stewpan  with  the  onion,  bouquct-garni,  stock,  and 
tomato  sauce,  and  cook  gently  until  tender,  adding  more  sauce  or  stock 
if  necessary,  to  prevent  the  rice  becoming  too  dry.  Fry  the  shallots 
in  i  oz.  of  butter  until  brown,  then  add  both  to  the  contents  of  the 
stewpan.  Remove  the  onion  and  bouquet-garni,  season  to  taste  with 
salt,  pepper,  cayenne  and  mace,  and  stir  in  the  cheese.  Meanwhile, 
the  tomatoes  should  have  been  thinly  sliced  and  fried  in  the  remaining 
oz.  of  butter;  now  pile  the  rice  on  a  hot  dish,  garnish  with  the  tomatoes 
and  serve  hot. 

Time. — i^  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  pd.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2992. — RICE  BORDER  (SOCLE).    fUsed  for  dishing-up 
Cold  Entrees,  etc.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  Carolina  rice,  about  3  pints  of  cold  water,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the 
water  and  salt,  and  cook  slowly  until  the  water  is  absorbed  and  the 
rice  perfectly  tender.  Then  pound  it  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  and 
press  it  into  a  wetted  border-mould.  Or,  turn  the  rice  whilst  warm 
and  pliable  on  to  a  pastry  board  or  large  slab,  knead  well  with  the  hands 
until  a  smooth  elastic  paste  is  obtained,  then  shape  it,  by  means  of  2 
wooden  spoons,  into  a  round  or  oval  block.  When  the  rice  is  set  and 
cold  the  edges  must  be  neatly  trimmed  with  a  sharp  knife,  and, 
if  liked,  they  may  be  cut  by  the  same  means  into  a  fluted  or  other 
suitable  design.  These  socles  or  borders  are  frequently  used  to  raise 
a  cold  entree  above  the  level  of  the  dish.  In  all  cases  they  should 
be  allowed  to  become  cold  before  being  used. 

2993.— SAVOURY  RICE  ROLLS.    (Fr—  Croquettes  de 
Riz.) 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  milk,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  i  tablespoonful 
of  finely-chopped  onion,  i  bay -leaf,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-powdered 
mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  i  oz.  of  butter,  3  eggs,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Pick,  wash,  and  drain  the  rice,  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with 
the  onion,  bay-leaf,  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  until  the  milk 
is  absorbed  and  the  rice  tender.  When  ready,  stir  in  the  butter  and 
2  slightly -beaten  eggs,  and  continue  stirring  at  the  side  of  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes,  to  allow  the  eggs  to  become  partially  cooked,  then 
turn  the  rice  on  to  a  plate  to  cool.  Before  it  is  quite  cold,  divide  it 


FARINACEOUS  PREPARATIONS  1283 

into  small  portions,  and  shape  them  in  the  form  of  long  corks.  Coat 
them  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  golden- 
brown,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  i  large  dish. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2994.— SEMOLINA,    OR  FLORADOR  CROQUETTES. 
(Fr. — Croquettes  de  Semoule  ou  Florador.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  semolina  or  florador,  i  oz.  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  pint  of  milk,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  i  whole  egg, 
breadcrumbs,  frying-fat,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  milk  and  butter  into  a  stewpan,  when  boiling  stir 
in  the  semolina,  and  cook  slowly  for  about  10  minutes.  Now  add  the 
3  yolks  of  eggs  and  the  cheese,  continue  the  cooking  and  stirring  for  a 
few  minutes  longer,  then  spread  the  preparation  on  a  large  dish.  When 
cold,  stamp  out  into  rounds  or  other  shapes,  coat  them  with  egg  and 
breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well, 
dish  in  pyramidal  form,  and  serve  garnished  with  crisply-fried  parsley. 

Time. — Altogether  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2995.— SMALL    FLORADOR     ROLLS.       (Fr.— Petits 
Cannelons  au  Florador.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  nouille  paste  No.  2984,  4  ozs.  of  florador, 
2  ozs.  of  grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  pint  of  milk,  2  slices  of  cooked 
ham  or  tongue,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat  or  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  milk  and  butter  into  a  stewpan;  when  boiling 
sprinkle  in  the  florador,  stir  and  cook  gently  for  10  minutes,  then  add 
the  cheese,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  spread  the  mixture  on  a  large 
dish.  Roll  the  nouille  paste  out  thinly,  and  cut  it  into  strips  3  inches 
long  and  about  i  inch  wide.  Spread  the  centre  of  each  strip  thickly 
with  the  florador  preparation,  put  a  narrow  strip  of  ham  or  tongue  in 
the  centre,  wet  the  edges  and  roll  up  lightly,  taking  care  that  the  paste 
completely  encloses  the  mixture.  Dip  them  in  egg  and  roll  them  in 
breadcrumbs,  let  them  lie  until  the  egg  hardens,  then  repeat  the  egg 
and  bread-crumbing  process,  and  fry  them  in  hot  butter  or  fat  until 
golden-brown.  Drain  well,  and  serve  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  anytime. 

2996.— SPANISH    RAVIOLIS.      (Fr.— Ravioles  a  1'Es- 
pagnole.) 

Ingredients. — For  the  paste:  £  a  Ib.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  yolks 
of  eggs,  2  Ibs.  of  spinach,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  level  tablespoonful  of  flour, 


1284  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  finely-chopped  shallot,  salt  and  pepper, 
tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  28 1 ),  grated  cheese. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  spinach  (see  Vegetables,  No.  1606),  drain 
well,  and  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the 
shallot  until  lightly  browned,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes, 
stirring  meanwhile,  and  finally  put  in  the  spinach.  Season  to  taste 
with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  stir  over  the  fire  for  5  or  6  minutes, 
and  then  allow  the  mixture  to  cool.  Prepare  the  nouille  paste  (No.  2984), 
roll  it  out  as  thinly  as  possible,  and  stamp  out  some  rounds  from  2  to 
2^  inches  in  diameter.  Place  a  little  pile  of  spinach  in  the  centre  of 
half  the  rounds,  wet  the  edges,  cover  each  one  with  another  round  of 
paste,  and  press  the  edges  well  together.  Have  ready  a  stewpan  of 
rapidly  boiling  salted  water,  put  in  the  raviolis,  and  cook  for  about 
15  minutes.  Drain  well,  arrange  them  in  a  deep  dish,  sprinkle  liberally 
with  cheese,  coat  with  tomato  sauce,  and  add  another  sprinkling  of 
cheese.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

2997.— VERMICELLI,    CROQUETTES    OF. 

(Fr. — Croquettes  de  Vermicelle  au  Fromage.) 

Ingredients, — 2  ozs.  of  vermicelli,  2  ozs.  of  grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  f  of  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  cayenne, 
pepper  and  salt,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs  or  vermicelli  for  coating. 

Method. — Break  the  vermicelli  into  short  pieces;  put  it  into  the  milk 
when  boiling,  and  cook  until  tender.  Add  the  cheese,  butter,  mustard, 
a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  stir  over  the 
fire  until  well  mixed,  then  spread  to  about  ^  an  inch  in  thickness  on  a 
large  dish.  When  cold4  stamp  out  into  circles,  ovals  or  crescents, 
dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  and  coat  them  with  breadcrumbs  or  crushed 
vermicelli,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  lightly  browned.  Serve  on  a  folded 
serviette  or  dish  paper  garnished  with  crisply-fried  parsley.  Cold 
remains  of  macaroni  cheese  may  also  be  utilized  in  this  way. 

Time. — i^  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


MILK,  BUTTER,  CHEESE 
AND  EGGS. 

CHAPTER  XLI. 

General  Observations  on  Milk,  Butter,  Cheese,  and 
Eggs,  their  Nutritious  Properties,  and  Distinguishing 
Features,  etc. 

MILK. 

Milk  is  obtained  only  from  the  Mammalia,  and  is  intended  by  nature 
for  the  nourishment  of  their  young.  All  young  animals  live  upon  it 
for  the  first  months  of  their  existence,  and  it  is  the  only  food  that, 
taken  alone,  can  support  adult  life.  The  fat  rises  in  the  form  of 
cream  ;  curd  is  the  nitrogenous  matter  ;  and  the  whey  contains 
sugar  and  milk  lactose  with  saline  or  mineral  matter.  For  the  majority 
of  those  who  lead  healthy,  simple  lives,  milk  is  an  excellent  article  of 
diet  ,  but  the  milk  of  each  animal  is  distinguished  by  some  peculiarities  ; 
and  as  that  of  the  cow  is  by  far  the  most  useful  to  us,  the  following 
remarks  will  chiefly  have  reference  to  that  source  of  supply.  When 
drawn  from  the  cow,  the  milk  is  of  a  yellowish-white  colour,  and  is 
most  yellow  at  the  beginning  of  the  period  of  lactation.  Its  taste  is 
agreeable,  and  rather  saccharine.  The  specific  gravity  of  milk  is 
somewhat  greater  than  that  of  water,  but  varies  somewhat  in  the  milk 
produced  from  different  individuals.  On  an  everage,  the  specific 
gravity  of  milk  is  1*032,  water  being  I. 

Milk,  as  it  is  drawn  from  the  cow,  is  slightly  alkaline,  but  afterwards 
lactic  acid  is  formed,  so  that  it  becomes  at  first  neutral,  then  acid, 
and  the  acidity  goes  on  increasing  until  it  is  easily  perceptible  to  the 
taste.  This  acidity  is  said  to  assist  in  the  rising  of  the  cream.  Most 
schemes  for  preserving  milk  fresh  consist  in  the  addition  of  some  alkali 
to  correct  this  acidity.  A  pinch  of  bi -carbonate  of  soda  is  efficacious, 
and  with  it  decidedly  sour  milk  can  often  be  boiled  without  curdling, 
but  it  gives  an  unpleasant  flavour.  Preparations  are  sold  of  which  the 
principal  constituent  is  boracic  acid,  and  it  is  said  that  most  of  the 
milk  that  comes  to  London  is  treated  in  this  way. 


1286  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

The  small  cows  of  the  Alderney  or  Guernsey  breed  afford  the  richest 
milk.  In  some  parts  of  the  country  few  other  cows  are  kept ;  but  they 
are  not  so  hardy  as  many  other  breeds,  they  do  not  yield  the  large 
quantity  of  milk,  and  are  therefore  not  great  favourites  with  dairy 
farmers.  The  quality  and  wholesomeness  of  the  milk  depends  greatly 
on  the  food  and  home  of  the  animal.  Large  numbers  of  cows  are  kept 
in  confined,  ill-ventilated  buildings,  and  are  fed  upon  brewers'  grains, 
so  that  the  milk  is  thin  and  poor,  and  unfit  for  food.  Milk  from  an 
animal  in  a  state  of  disease  cannot  but  produce  ill  health  to  the  con- 
sumer. Of  late  years  model  dairies,  under  medical  inspection,  have 
been  established  in  the  neighbourhood  of  London,  and  have,  no  doubt, 
had  a  share  in  improving  the  health  of  the  Metropolis.  Milk  may  also  be 
a  carrier  of  infectious  disease  from  the  farm  where  it  is  produced  to  the 
consumer.  The  "  milk  epidemics  "  of  fever  are  instances  of  this.  It 
is,  therefore,  advisable  to  buy  milk  only  at  places  where  reasonable 
precautions  for  its  wholesomeness  are  known  to  be  taken,  and  failing 
this  knowledge — perhaps  in  all  cases — milk  should  be  boiled. 

Adulterated  Milk. — Milk  is  more  frequently  adulterated  with  water 
than  with  anything  else.  The  best  popular  test  for  adulteration  by 
water  is  by  means  of  a  small  instrument  called  a  lactometer.  It  is 
useful,  but  not  infallible,  for  it  is  based  upon  the  fact  that  the  specific 
gravity  of  milk  is  (as  has  been  said)  1-032.  But  cream  is  lighter  than 
milk  ;  and,  therefore,  it  sometimes  happens  that  milk  with  an  excess 
of  cream  will  not  stand  the  test  so  well  as  skimmed  or  poor  milk.  How- 
ever, this  fault  is  rare,  for  it  is  not  an  uncommon  practice  to  make 
butter  of  all  or  part  of  the  cream,  and  then  to  sell  skimmed  milk  for 
fresh.  This  is  easier  now  that  mechanical  separators  have  in  large 
dairies  almost  superseded  the  old  plan  of  allowing  the  cream  to  rise. 
By  the  old  plan,  the  1 2  hours  that  the  milk  stood  was  sufficiently  long 
in  the  summer  for  it  to  turn  sour,  when  it  was  no  longer  fit  for  sale, 
and  generally  went  to  fatten  pigs.  Now,  while  the  milk  is  yet  warm 
from  the  cow,  it  is  put  into  a  large  reservoir,  from  which  it  is  conducted 
along  a  series  of  metal  pipes,  where  it  rapidly  cools.  Then  it  trickles 
into  the  separator,  and  is  whirled  at  a  very  rapid  speed,  the  result 
being  that  the  light  cream  is  thrown  to  the  top,  while  the  heavier 
milk  is  drawn  off  below,  completely  skimmed  and  perfectly  fresh. 

To  Keep  Milk. — For  the  preservation  of  milk,  scrupulous  cleanliness 
is  the  first  necessity.  Not  only  must  the  pots  and.  pans  be  scrubbed 
and  scalded  (that  every  dairy  woman  understands,  at  least,  in  theory), 
but  the  dairy  must  be  clean  and  well  ventilated  ;  in  it  no  open  drain, 
no  meat  or  game  hanging  ;  outside  it  no  foul  heap  of  yard  refuse  or 
decaying  matter.  Nothing  is  more  certain  to  taint  the  milk  and  spoil 
the  butter  than  neglect  of  these  precautions. 

Boiling  milk  preserves  it  ;  this  is  one  great  advantage  of  the  Devon- 
shire method  of  butter  making  for  small  dairies.  And  we  have  already 
spoken  of  the  addition  of  soda  or  borax,  Soda  may  very  well  be  put 


MILK,  BUTTER,  CHEESE  AND  EGGS  1287 

in  if  the  milk  is  to  be  used  for  soups  or  savouries,  as  the  flavour  is  then 
disguised. 

Condensed  Milk  in  tins  has  a  large  and  increasing  sale.  Fresh  milk 
is  evaporated  in  open  pans  until  it  loses  the  greater  part  of  the  water. 
A  certain  quantity  of  cane  sugar  is  then  added,  and  the  milk  is  sealed 
down  in  tins,  when  it  will  keep  for  any  length  of  time.  The  objection 
is  the  peculiar  flavour  that  milk  acquires  in  boiling,  but  this  is  not  of 
consequence  for  many  cooking  purposes.  The  excessive  sweetness  is 
also  objectionable,  but  unsweetened  condensed  milk  may  now  be  had. 
When  the  full  milk  is  preserved  it  forms  a  valuable  addition  to  our 
stock  of  foods,  especially  for  infants  and  children,  for  whom  a  plentiful 
supply  of  good  milk  cannot  be  obtained.  But,  on  the  whole,  condensed 
milk  is  less  nutritive  than  the  fresh  article,  from  the  fact  that  it  is 
chiefly  made  of  skimmed  or  separated  milk,  and  in  consequence  is 
less  rich  in  fats.  A  well-known  writer  says  :  "  For  a  baby  not  fed 
by  the  mother,  condensed  milk,  rightly  mixed,  is  most  nourishing. 
When  condensed  mirk  does  not  appear  to  agree  with  the  child,  then 
inquiry  will  almost  certainly  show  that  the  fault  lies  in  the  mixing, 
and  not  in  the  condensed  milk.  The  constitution  of  one  child  differs 
from  that  of  another,  and  this  fact  must  keep  the  careful  nurse  on 
her  guard  to  anticipate  and  provide  for  any  peculiarities  of  diet  that 
may  be  necessary  in  consequence.  Remembering  this,  it  may  be  broadly 
asserted  that  a  healthy  child  would  do  well  on  condensed  milk  alone 
for  the  first  three  months." 

Milk  carried  to  a  distance,  so  as  to  be  much  agitated,  and  cooled  before 
it  is  put  into  pans  to  settle  for  cream,  never  throws  up  so  much,  nor 
such  rich  cream,  as  if  the  same  milk  had  been  put  into  pans  directly 
after  it  was  milked. 

Milk,  considered  as  an  aliment,  is  of  such  importance  in  domestic 
economy  as  to  render  all  the  improvements  in  its  production  extremely 
valuable.  To  enlarge  upon  the  antiquity  of  its  use  is  unnecessary  ;  it 
has  always  been  a  favourite  food  in  Britain.  "  Lacte  et  carne  vivunt," 
says  Caesar  in  his  Commentaries  ;  which,  translated  into  English,  is, 
41  The  inhabitants  subsist  upon  flesh  and  milk."  The  breed  of  the 
cow  has  undergone  great  improvement  in  modern  times  as  regards  both 
the  quantity  and  the  quality  of  the  milk  which  she  affords.  Although 
milk  in  its  natural  state  is  a  fluid,  yet,  considered  as  an  aliment,  it  is  both 
solid  and  fluid  ;  for  no  sooner  does  it  enter  the  stomach  than  it  is  coagu- 
lated by  the  gastric  juice,  and  separated  into  curds  and  whey,  both  of 
which  are  extremely  nutritious.  The  milk  of  the  human  subject  is  much 
thinner  than  cow's  milk  ;  asses'  milk  comes  the  nearest  to  human  milk 
of  any  other  ;  goat's  milk  is  somewhat  thicker  and  richer  than  cow's 
milk  ;  ewe's  milk  has  the  appearance  of  cow's  milk,  and  affords  a 
larger  quantity  of  cream  ;  mare's  milk  contains  more  sugar  than  that 
of  the  ewe  ;  camel's  milk  is  used  only  in  Africa  ;  buffalo's  milk  is  em- 
ployed in  India  and  Egypt.  The  following  comparison  of  the  chief 


1288 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


varieties  of  milk  and  their  constituents  will  indicate  generally  their 
dietetic  value. 


Specific 
Gravity. 

Solids. 

Proteids. 

Fats. 

Carbo- 
hydrates. 

Salts. 

Water. 

Human  milk 

I-O27 

12-60 

2-29 

3'8i 

6-20 

0-30 

87-40 

Cow's  milk 

10-32 

12-83 

3-55 

3-69 

4-88 

0-71 

87-17 

Mare's  milk 

1-035 

9-21 

2-OO 

i  -20 

5-6S 

0-36 

90-79 

Asses'  milk 

I-O26 

10-40 

2-25 

1-65 

6-00 

0-50 

89-60 

Goat's  milk 

IO-32 

14-30 

4-30 

478 

4-46 

075 

85-71 

Buffalo's  milk 

IO-32 

1  8  -60 

6-n 

7-45 

4-17 

0-87 

81-40 

Value  of  Milk. — From  no  other  substance,  solid  or  fluid,  can  so  great 
a  number  of  distinct  kinds  of  aliment  be  prepared  as  from  milk  ;  some 
forming  food,  others  drink  ;  some  of  them  delicious,  and  deserving 
the  name  of  luxuries  ;  all  of  them  wholesome,  and  some  medicinal  ; 
indeed,  the  variety  of  foods  that  seems  capable  of  being  produced  from 
milk  appears  to  be  almost  endless. 

BUTTER. 

In  England  butter  has  been  made  from  time  immemorial,  though 
the  art  of  making  cheese  is  said  not  to  have  been  known  to  the  ancient 
Britains,  and  to  have  been  learnt  by  them  from  the  Romans.  The 
taste  of  butter  is  peculiar,  and  very  unlike  any  other  fatty  substance. 
It  is  extremely  agreeable  when  of  the  best  quality,  but  its  flavour 
depends  much  upon  the  food  given  to  the  cows. 

Butter,  with  regard  to  its  dietetic  properties,  may  be  regarded  as  a  com- 
bination of  neutral  fats  mixed  with  water  and  small  quantities  of 
casein  and  salts.  Its  average  proportion  is  as  follows  :  Fat,  78  to  94  ; 
curd,  i  to  3  ;  water,  5  to  14  ;  salt,  o  to  7.  Butter  becomes  sooner 
rancid  than  other  fats,  owing  to  the  presence  of  more  or  less  casein, 
which,  no  matter  how  throughly  washed  the  butter  may  be,  is  never 
completely  removed.  When  fresh  it  is  a  very  wholesome  article  of 
diet  ;  but  it  should  be  quite  free  from  rancidity.  If  slightly  salted 
when  it  is  fresh,  its  wholesomeness  is  not  at  all  impaired  ;  but  should 
it  begin  to  turn  rancid,  salting  \vill  not  correct  its  unwholesomeness. 
When  salt  butter  is  put  into  casks,  the  upper  part  next  to  the  air  is 
very  apt  to  become  rancid,  and  this  rancidity  is  also  liable  to  affect 
the  whole  cask. 

Different  Butters. — Fresh  butter  comes  to  London  from  nearly  all 
the  south,  east,  and  south-eastern  counties,  also  from  Cheshire,  York- 
shire, Devonshire  and  Wales.  The  Irish  butter  sold  in  London  is 
nearly  all  salted,  but  is  generally  good.  Brittany  butter  is  in  good 
repute  all  over  Europe,  America,  and  even  India  ;  but  no  country 
in  the  world  is  more  successful  in  the  manufacture  of  this  article, 


cows. 


i\ 


i.  Jersey  Cow.         2.  Ayrshire  Cow. 


95 


TT* 


SHAPED    BUTTER  AND  OMELET. 


i.  Fairy  Butter.         2.  Curled  Butter.          3.  Sweet  Omelet. 


96 


MILK,  BUTTER,  CHEESE  AND  EGGS  1289 

than  Denmark,  this  country  supplying  more  butter  to  the  rest  of 
the  world  than  any  other.  Equally  good  is  the  butter  imported 
from  Holland,  the  annual  import  of  which  into  England  is  enor- 
mous. Butter  of  good  quality  is  also  imported  from  Canada, 
America,  Australia,  Tasmania,  New  Zealand,  and  the  Argentine. 
The  Board  of  Trade's  latest  return  shows  that  Canada,  New  Zealand, 
Australia,  and  Holland,  each  send  about  one  and  a  quarter  million 
pounds,  (sterling)  worth  of  butter  into  the  United  Kingdom  annually. 
France  sends  butter  worth  about  £2,000,000,  and  Denmark  supplies 
us  with  nearly  £10,000,000  worth. 

To  make  Butter. — There  are  3  methods  pursued  in  the  manufacture  of 
butter.  In  one,  the  cream  is  separated  from  the  milk,  and  in  that 
state  it  is  converted  into  butter  by  churning.  In  the  second  method, 
the  whole  milk  is  subjected  to  the  same  process,  but  it  is  extremely 
wasteful,  for  the  sour  butter  milk  is  of  no  use  except  as  food  for  pigs, 
whereas  new  skimmed  milk  has  a  marketable  value,  or,  enriched  with 
linseed  meal  or  other  oily  substances,  may  be  given  to  calves  instead 
of  whole  milk.  In  Devon  and  Cornwall,  and  the  West  of  England 
generally,  the  milk,  as  soon  as  it  comes  from  the  cow,  is  heated  over  a 
stove  or  hot  water  pipes,  which  makes  the  cream  rise  and  thicken  into 
the  well  known  "  clotted  cream,"  which  is  afterwards  very  readily 
and  quickly  turned  into  butter.  The  first  method  is  generally  said  to 
give  the  richest  butter,  and  the  last  the  largest  quantity  but  opinions  differ. 

Churning. — A  great  many  different  churns  are  sold,  but  the  secrets 
of  good  butter  making  are  simple  and  applicable  to  all  kinds. 

The  first  is  scrupulous  cleanliness.  Everything  must  be  scalded 
daily  with  boiling  water,  rinsed  with  cold  water,  and  used  wet.  Every 
utensil  must  be  set  out  in  the  open  air  every  day. 

The  second  is  the  right  temperature  for  the  cream.  A  thermometer 
is  absolutely  necessary,  and  must  register  55°  to  60°  Fahr.  when  churn- 
ing begins.  The  desired  temperature  is  usually  attained  by  adding  a 
little  warm  water  or  icy  cold  water  when  it  is  necessary  to  modify  the 
temperature.  Butter,  under  these  conditions,  should  come  in  about 
15  minutes.  It  is  then  washed  quite  free  from  butter  milk,  usually 
with  cold  water,  before  the  butter  is  removed  from  the  churn.  Salt  is 
generally  added  in  the  proportion  of  from  J  to  i  oz.  for  each  3  Ib.  of 
butter.  It  should  be  dried  and  finely  powdered. 

To  iweeten  Rancid  Butter. — This  is  done  in  several  ways  :  by  beating 
it  in  lime  water  (water  in  which  I  Ib.  would  be  washed  should  have 
about  1 5  drops  of  chloride  added )  ;  by  scalding  with  boiling  water,  or  by 
washing  in  new  milk.  The  last  named  is  the  safest  and  best  method, 
and  those  who  live  some  distance  from  the  place  from  whence  they 
procure  their  supplies  of  butter  will  find  these  instructions  to  perfectly 
1  butter  of  service  to  them.  The  butter  must  be 
thorough! \  i  and  kneaded  first  in  new  milk,  where  it  will  lose 

the  acid  which  has  turned  it,  then  in  fresh  spring  water. 


I2go  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Margarine. — Butter  and  margarine  are  classed  together  in  the  list 
of  imports  published  by  the  Custom  House,  and  until  the  Act  of  1881 
butter  and  margarine  were  sold  together  to  the  general  public,  both 
under  the  name  of  the  more  expensive  product.  By  the  provisions  of 
the  Act,  passed  to  prevent  the  fraudulent  sale  of  artificial  butter, 
margarine,  known  also  as  oleo-margarine,  must  only  be  sold  under 
that  name,  while  butter  must  be  made  exclusively  of  milk  or  cream. 
Margarine  is  bought  by  pastrycooks  and  by  some  large  consumers,  as 
well  as  by  retail  traders,  and,  if  well  manufactured  and  sold  at  a 
reasonable  retail  price,  would  be  a  most  valuable  addition  to  the  food 
of  the  people,  who  commonly  suffer  from  a  want  of  fatty  food.  Mar- 
garine is  made  of  oleo-margarine,  the  oily  constituent  of  the  fat  of 
animals,  melted,  mixed  with  a  certain  proportion  of  milk  and  of  butter, 
and  then  churned.  Afterwards  it  is  washed  and  worked  like  butter, 
and  made  up  to  imitate  the  kinds  most  in  demand.  If  carefully  pre- 
pared and  made  from  pure  fats,  margarine  has  a  high  nutritive  value, 
but  is  always  less  digestible  than  butter,  and  it  is  sometimes  carelessly 
prepared  and  insufficiently  purified. 

CHEESE 

Cheese  is  the  Curd  of  Milk,  dried. — This  curd,  or  casein,  which  is  held 
in  solution  in  the  whey  under  natural  conditions,  or  so  long  as  the 
milk  is  fresh,  has  the  curious  property  of  coagulating  under  the  influ- 
ence of  an  acid. 

Lactic  acid,  formed  in  the  milk,  serves  to  precipitate  the  curd  in  the 
ordinary  process  of  souring.  Curd  is  formed  in  the  first  stage  of  di- 
gestion by  the  action  of  the  gastric  acid  of  the  stomach.  Lemon-juice 
is  often  used  to  make  curd  for  cheesecakes.  In  cheese  making  "  rennet," 
or  "  runnet,"  is  used — a  preparation  from  the  stomach  of  the  calf  ; 
or  in  some  countries,  principally  in  Holland,  a  weak  solution  of  hydro- 
chloric acid  is  substituted  for  the  rennet. 

Method  of  Making. — Although  the  broad  principles  of  cheese  making 
may  be  said  to  apply  to  all  varieties  of  a  particular  class,  the  cheese 
of  each  county  has  certain  distinguishing  characteristics.  That  of 
Cheshire  and  Wales  has  a  crumbly  texture,  and  a  deep  yellow  colour, 
produced  artificially  by  the  addition  of  anatto.  Cheddar  cheese, 
although  similar  in  shape  and  size,  is  less  crumbly,  and  usually  of  a 
pale  colour.  The  methods  employed  in  making  these  well-known 
varieties  of  cheese  are  almost  identical.  They  are  usually  made  of 
whole  milk,  unless  the  milk  is  very  rich  in  cream,  in  which  case  the 
night's  milk  is  skimmed  before  adding  that  of  the  morning.  A  pro- 
perly equipped  dairy  is  provided  with  a  jacketed  milk  vat,  so  contrived 
that  the  milk  may  be  surrounded  with  either  hot  or  cold  water.  By 
these  means  the  temperature  of  the  milk  is  raised  to  a  suitable  heat, 
usually  about  70°  Fahr.,  and  the  rennet  is  added.  The  temperature 
is  then  raised  and  maintained  at  a  higher  level  until  the  curd  is  firm 


MILK,  BUTTER,  CHEESE  AND  EGGS  1291 

enough  to  cut.  Many-bladed  knives  greatly  facilitate  this  part  of  the 
work,  but  some  little  practice  is  necessary  to  enable  the  worker  to 
wield  one  successfully.  After  cutting,  the  fine  particles  of  curd  arc 
stirred  continuously  until  the  necessary  degree  of  firmness  is  attained, 
and  these  are  then  allowed  to  sink  to  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  where  they 
remain  in  warm  whey  until  sufficient  acidity  is  developed.  When  the 
right  point  is  reached,  the  whey  is  drawn  off,  the  curd  is  broken  up, 
covered  with  warm  cloths,  and  kept  thus  until  ripe  enough  to  be  salted 
and  put  into  cheese  moulds.  The  cheese  remains  in  the  mould  under 
pressure  until  sufficiently  firm  to  support  its  own  weight,  when  it  is 
trimmed  and  ironed  into  a  good  shape,  and  then  transferred  to  the 
drying  room.  Here  it  remains  for  months,  being  turned  every  day, 
so  that  any  moisture  contained  in  the  cheese  may  be  equally  distri- 
buted. The  whole  process  is  extremely  simple,  but  the  success  of  the 
whole  depends  on  the  amount  of  acidity  developed  during  the  various 
stages  of  the  work.  If  the  curd  is  allowed  to  become  too  acid,  a  hard 
cheese  is  the  result  ;  if  not  sufficiently  developed,  the  cheese  is  too 
crumbly,  and  consequently  wasteful. 

To  choose  Cheese. — The  taste  and  smell  are  the  best  indications  of 
quality.  There  is  so  much  difference  of  taste  that  cheese,  almost 
alone  of  all  foods,  is  tasted  by  the  customer  before  purchasing.  A 
good  cheese  has  rounded  edges  and  sides,  and  when  a  piece  is  rubbed 
between  the  fingers  it  should  melt  and  feel  smooth.  The  bulging 
should  not  be  great,  however,  as  that  indicates  slight  fermentation, 
and  the  cheese  should  be  flat  at  the  top.  The  best  cheese  is  made  of 
new  milk,  and  contains,  therefore,  fat  in  addition  to  the  curd.  Skimmed 
milk  cheeses  are  hard  and  indigestible.  In  fact,  no  cheese  is  easy  of 
digestion,  which  probably  accounts  for  its  not  being  a  universal  food  ; 
it  has  almost  every  other  virtue,  being  cheap,  portable,  easy  to  store 
and  palatable.  In  every  pound  of  cheese  as  much  solid  food  is  con- 
tained as  in  a  pound  of  lean  meat,  and  the  food  is  of  the  flesh-forming 
kind,  being  rich  in  both  proteid  and  fat. 

The  principal  Varieties  of  Cheese  used  in  England  are  the  following  : 
and  most  of  these  are  shown  in  the  coloured  plate.  Cheshire  Cheese, 
famed  all  over  Europe  for  its  rich  quality  and  fine  piquant 
flavour.  It  is  made  of  entire  new  milk  from  which  the  cream 
has  not  been  taken  off.  Gloucester  Cheese  is  much  milder  in  its  taste 
than  the  Cheshire.  There  are  two  kinds  of  Gloucester  cheese,  single 
and  double.  Single  Gloucester  is  made  of  skimmed  milk,  or  of  milk 
deprived  of  half  the  cream  ;  Double  Gloucester  is  a  cheese  that  pleases 
almost  every  palate  ;  it  is  made  of  the  whole  milk  and  cream.  Stilton 
Cheese  is  made  by  adding  the  cream  of  one  day  to  the  entire  milk  of 
the  next  ;  it  was  first  made  at  Stilton,  in  Leicestershire.  Gorgonzola 
strongly  resembles  Stilton,  and  has  a  large  sale.  Much  is  now  made 
in  England  to  imitate  the  original.  Sage  Cheese  is  so  called  from  the 
practice  of  colouring  some  curd  with  bruised  sage,  marigold-leaves  and 


I2Q2         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

parsley,  and  mixing  this  with  some  uncoloured  curd.  With  the 
Romans,  and  during  the  middle  ages,  this  practice  was  extensively 
adopted.  Cheddar  Cheese  is  manufactured  principally  at  Pennard,  near 
Cheddar,  and  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  widely  known  cheeses  we 
consume.  American  Cheddar  is  considered  the  best  of  the  cheeses  sold 
as  American.  Brickbat  Cheese  has  nothing  remarkable  except  its  form. 
It  is  made  by  turning  with  rennet  a  mixture  of  cream  and  new  milk. 
The  curd  is  put  into  a  wooden  vessel  the  shape  of  a  brick,  and  is  then 
pressed  and  dried  in-  the  usual  way.  Dunlop  Cheese  has  a  peculiarly 
mild  and  rich  taste  ;  the  best  is  made  entirely  from  new  milk.  New 
Cheese  (as  it  is  called  in  London)  is  made  chiefly  in  Lincolnshire,  and  is 
either  made  of  all  cream,  or,  like  Stilton,  by  adding  the  cream  of  one 
day's  milking  to  the  milk  that  comes  immediately  from  the  cow  ; 
these  cheeses  are  extremely  thin,  and  are  compressed  gently  two  or 
three  times,  turned  for  a  few  days,  and  then  eaten  new  with  radishes, 
salad,  etc.  Skimmed  Milk  Cheese  is  made  in  most  dairy  countries,  and 
is  eaten  by  the  peasantry,  but  is  not  generally  exported.  There  are 
some  exceptions,  such  as  the  Parmesan  Cheese,  made  in  Parma  and 
Piacenza,  the  most  celebrated  of  all  cheese,  and  made  entirely  of 
skimmed  cow's  milk.  The  high  flavour  which  it  possesses  is  supposed 
to  be  owing  to  the  rich  herbage  of  the  meadows  of  the  Po,  where  the 
cows  are  pastured.  The  best  Parmesan  is  kept  for  3  or  4  years,  and 
none  is  carried  to  market  until  it  is  at  least  6  months  old.  Dutch 
Cheese  derives  its  peculiar  pungent  taste  from  the  practice  adopted  in 
Holland  of  coagulating  the  milk  with  muriatic  acid  instead  of  rennet. 
Swiss  Cheeses,  in  their  several  varieties,  are  all  remarkable  for  their  fine 
flavour.  That  from  Gruyere,  a  bailiwick  in  the  canton  of  Fribourg,  is 
best  known  in  England.  It  is  flavoured  by  the  dried  herb  of  Melilotos 
officinalis  in  powder.  Cheese  from  milk  and  potatoes  is  manufactured 
in  Thuringia  and  Saxony.  Cream  Cheese,  although  so  called,  is  not 
properly  cheese,  but  is  merely  cream  dried  sufficiently  to  be  cut  with 
a  knife.  All  cheeses  are  imitated  in  countries  and  places  other  than 
those  from  which  they  take  their  conventional  names.  Cheese  is  also 
made  of  skimmed  milk  mixed  with  animal  fats  or  margarine,  in  the 
place  of  the  cream  that  has  been  removed  for  sale.  Camembcrt  is  a 
Brittany  cheese,  one  of  the  most  esteemed  of  cream  cheeses,  it  being 
richer  than  most  ;  it  is  a  small,  flat  cheese  of  a  pale  yellow  colour,  with 
a  dark  rind.  Roquefort  is  a  very  rich  cheese,  made  in  the  South  of 
France,  from  the  milk  of  sheep  and  goats.  Like  Stilton,  it  has  to  be 
kept  a  considerable  time  before  it  is  sufficiently  ripe  for  eating. 
Shabzieger  is  a  cheese  exceedingly  strong  both  in  smell  and  taste,  and 
for  that  reason  is  considered  a  delicacy  by  some  and  a  cheese  to  be 
avoided  by  others.  An  excellent  but  little  known  English  cheese  is 
one  called  Wensieydale,  which  takes  its  name  from  the  place  where  made, 
a  small  village  in  Yorkshire.  This  cheese  has  the  characteristics  of 
Stilton,  and  is  rich  in  quality.  Dorsetshire  yields  a  very  good  cheese 


MILK,  BUTTER,  CHEESE  AND  EGGS 


1293 


called  Blue  Veiny,  from  its  blue-veined  appearance.  It  may  be  com- 
pared to  Stilton  in  flavour,  but  is  less  rich,  being  made  entirely  from 
skimmed  milk.  There  are,  in  addition  to  the  above,  various  fancy  cheeses. 

EGGS. 

The  Nutritive  Properties  of  Eggs. — Although  the  qualities  of  those 
belonging  to  different  birds  vary  somewhat,  their  nutritive  constituents 
of  fats  and  salts  are  identical,  varying  only  in  degree.  Eggs  are 
valuable  on  account  of  their  concentrated  nourishment,  and  their 
ready  digestibility  when  raw  or  slightly  cooked.  The  quality  of  eggs 
depends  much  upon  the  breed  of  the  hens,  and  upon  the  character  of 
the  food  given  to  them.  New-laid  eggs  are  more  easily  digested  than 
eggs  a  day  or  two  old,  but  the  milkiness  of  an  egg  cooked  almost  as 
soon  as  it  is  laid  is  generally  disliked.  Poaching  is  undoubtedly  the 
lightest  way  of  dressing  eggs  ;  and  this  is  effected  by  putting  them 
for  2  or  3  minutes  into  boiling  water,  to  which  is  added  a  little  salt 
and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  or  vinegar  to  assist  the  coagulation 
of  the  albumen.  Another  light  digestible  way  of  cooking  an  egg  is 
to  place  it  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  let  it  remain  covered 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  10  minutes.  Immersion  for  this  period  will 
cook  the  white  of  the  egg  to  the  consistency  of  a  jelly,  but  the  water 
must  not  be  allowed  to  even  simmer. 

Uses  of  Eggs. — The  purpose  for  which  eggs  are  employed  are  more 
numerous  and  varied  than  any  other  article  of  food  ;  they  form  an 
impervious  coating  for  frying  ;  they  bind  dry  mixtures  ;  they  increase 
the  tenacity  of  paste  and  dough,  so  that  they  more  completely  retain 
the  air  ;  when  beaten  to  a  froth,  they  are  the  means  of  introducing 
a  good  deal  of  air  into  a  mixture,  and  thus  increase  its  lightness  ;  and 
to  all  mixtures  they  give  colour,  flavour  and  lightness. 

Sources  of  Supply.— The  Metropolis  is  supplied  with  eggs  from  all 
parts  of  the  United  Kingdom  and  Ireland,  and  they  are  likewise  largely 
imported  from  various  parts  on  the  Continent ;  as  France,  Holland, 
Belgium,  Denmark,  Russia,  Guernsey  and  Jersey,  and  also  from  Canada. 
The  last  Board  of  Trade  return  furnishes  the  following  statistics  : — 
EGGS  IMPORTED  INTO  THE  UNITED  KINGDOM. 


Principal  Count 

Great  Hundreds. 

Value. 

Russia      
Denmark       

7»93- 
7.602.326 

£2,042,520 
/1.  46  1,  4  CO 

Germany       .... 

•3  e  cj.  232 

/i.ioi.i6i 

Belgium 

2    T  C  7  O7  ?. 

/g-?7   i  •>() 

France     
Egypt     
Canada   .... 

*»•  3/»*-'/  j 
1,698,614 
572,312 
317   772 

i7  10.057 
£142,  192 
/i  Hj.631 

Other  British  Possessions    . 

3  1/»//'* 
3l8,86l 

£130,010 

Total  imported. 

20,154,096 

£6,644,150 

1294  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

The  Eggs  of  different  Birds  vary  much  in  size  and  colour.  Those  of  the 
ostrich  are  the  largest  ;  one  laid  in  the  menagerie  in  Paris  weighed 
2  Ibs.  14  ozs.,  held  i  pint,  and  was  6  inches  deep  ;  this  is  about  the 
usual  size  of  those  brought  from  Africa.  Travellers  describe  ostrich 
eggs  as  of  an  agreeable  taste  :  they  keep  longer  than  hen's  eggs. 
Drinking-cups  are  often  made  of  the  shell,  which  is  very  strong.  The 
eggs  of  the  turkey  are  almost  as  mild  as  those  of  the  hen  ;  the  egg  of 
the  goose  is  large,  but  well  flavoured.  Ducks'  eggs  have  a  rich  flavour  ; 
the  albumen  is  slightly  transparent,  or  bluish,  when  set  or  coagulated 
by  boiling,  and  requires  less  time  to  cook  than  hens'  eggs.  Guinea 
fowls'  eggs  are  smaller  and  more  delica,te  than  those  of  the  hen.  Eggs 
of  wild  fowl  are  generally  coloured,  often  spotted  ;  and  the  taste 
generally  partakes  somewhat  of  the  flavour  of  the  bird.  Those  of 
land  birds  that  are  eaten,  as  the  plover,  lapwing,  ruff,  etc.,  are  in  general 
much  esteemed  ;  but  those  of  sea-fowl  have,  more  or  less,  a  strong  fishy 
taste.  The  eggs  of  the  turtle  are  very  numerous  ;  they  consist  of 
yolk  only,  without  shell,  and  are  delicious.  The  average  weight  of  a 
hen's  egg  in  the  shell  is  2  oz.,  the  shell  constituting  about  10  per  cent, 
of  its  total  weight.  Eggs  keep  best  in  a  cold  temperature  of  36°  Fahr. 


RECIPES    FOR 

MILK,    BUTTER,    CHEESE 

AND   EGGS 

CHAPTER  XLII 

Milk  and  Cream 

2998.— CURDS  AND  WHEY. 

Ingredients. — Milk,  rennet. 

Method. — Rennet  varies  so  much  in  strength  that  no  definite  rules 
for  its  use  can  be  given.  It  may  be  prepared  from  the  lining  of  the 
paunch  of  a  calf,  but  it  is  much  better  to  buy  it  ready  prepared.  Heat 
the  milk  to  about  80°  Fahr.,  add  rennet  according  to  the  printed  direc- 
tions on  the  bottle,  and  allow  it  to  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  the 
curd  separates  itself  from  the  whey. 

2999.— DEVONSHIRE  CREAM. 

Method. — The  milk  should  be  allowed  to  stand  for  12  hours  in  winter, 
and  about  half  that  length  of  time  when  the  weather  is  warm.  The 
milk-pan  is  then  set  on  a  stove,  and  should  remain  there  until  the  milk 
is  quite  hot,  but  it  must  not  boil,  otherwise  the  albumen  will  coagulate 
and  form  a  skin  on  the  surface.  The  more  slowly  the  milk  is  heated 
the  better  will  be  the  result.  The  time  required  depends  upon  the 
size  and  shape  of  the  vessel  containing  the  milk,  and  the  amount  of 
heat  applied,  but  smaH  rings  and  undulations  on  the  surface  of  the 
milk  indicate  that  it  is  sufficiently  scalded.  When  the  process  of 
scalding  is  completed,  the  vessel  should  at  once  be  transferred  to  a 
cold  place  and  kept  there  until  the  following  day,  when  the  cream  is 
skimmed  off  into  the  tins  or  pots  in  which  it  is  sold.  In  Devonshire 
nearly  all  the  butter  is  made  from  scalded  cream,  and  is  usually  very 
firm. 

3000.— DEVONSHIRE  JUNKET. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  new  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  brand y.  i 
dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  prepared  rennet, 
whipped  or  clotted  cream,  ground  cinnamon  or  grated  nutmeg. 

1295 


1296  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Heat  the  milk  to  about  80°  Fahr.  and  stir  in,  off  the  fire, 
the  sugar,  brandy,  and  rennet.  Pour  this  preparation  into  a  deep 
dish,  in  which  it  will  be  served ;  put  it  aside  until  set,  then  cover  the 
surface  with  either  whipped  or  clotted  cream,  sprinkle  on  a  little  cinna- 
mon or  nutmeg,  and  serve. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.     Sufficient  for  i  dish. 

3001.— MILK    AND    CREAM,    TO    KEEP    IN    HOT 
WEATHER. 

Method. — In  hot  weather  the  milk,  as  soon  as  it  is  received,  should 
be  put  into  a  double  saucepan  or  a  jug  placed  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling 
water,  and  heated  nearly  to  boiling  point.  If  the  milk  is  allowed  to 
boil,  the  albumen  will  coagulate  and  form  a  skin  on  the  surface,  which 
will  prevent  the  cream  being  as  completely  skimmed  off  as  it  would 
otherwise  be.  Cream  may  be  kept  for  24  hours,  if  scalded  without 
sugar,  and  by  the  addition  of  the  latter  ingredient  it  will  remain  good 
for  at  least  36  hours,  provided  that  it  is  kept  in  a  cool  place.  A  little 
boracic  acid  also  preserves  cream  and  milk  by  neutralizing  the  lactic 
acid. 

3002.— MILK  AND  CREAM,  TO  SEPARATE. 

Method. — Nearly  all  large  dairies  are  provided  with  steam  separators, 
and  smaller  ones  with  separators  worked  by  hand.  In  ordinary  house- 
holds, where  these  mechanical  contrivances  are  not  available,  the  milk 
should  at  once  be  poured  into  a  large  and  very  shallow  basin.  In  7 
or  8  hours  the  greater  part  of  the  cream  will  have  risen  to  the  surface. 

MILK  is  a  perfect  food,  inasmuch  as  it  contains  in  right  proportions  all  the  food  substances  necessary 
to  sustain  life,  its  constituents  in  100  parts  being  :  water  86  oo ;  proteids,  s'oo;  fats,  4/00  ;  carbohy- 
drates, 4*30  ;  salts,  070.  It  forms  a  valuable  food  for  the  young  ;  and  in  sickness  life  can  be  sus- 
tained on  milk  alone  for  long  periods.  It  also  forms  a  valuable  addition  to  the  diet  of  adults  in  health, 
more  especially  when  the  indispensable  solid  part  of  their  food  is  lacking  in  nourishing  constituents. 


Butter 

3003.— ANCHOVY  BUTTER.  (Fr.— Beurre  d'Anchois.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  3  anchovies  or  i  teaspoonful  of 
essence,  cayenne. 

Method. — Wash  and  bone  the  anchovies,  pound  them  well  in  a  mortar, 
and  rub  them  through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Mix  the  paste  thus  obtained 
smoothly  with  the  butter,  add  cayenne  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 
When  anchovy  essence  is  used,  it  is  simply  mixed  smoothly  with  the 
butter. 

Time. — 26  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d. 


CHEESE, 


20 


i-Gorgonzola.  a— Double  Gloucester.  3— Koboko.  4— Parmesan.  5 -Dutch.  6—  Roquefort. 
7— Schabzieger.  8— Dunragit.  9— York  Cream.  10— Port  du  Salut.  n— Cheddar, 
la- Pommel.  13— Camembert.  14— Mainzer.  15— Cheshire.  16— Stilton.  17— Cream 
Bondon.  18— Gruyere.  19— Wiltshire  Loaf.  20— Cheddar  Loaf. 


RECIPES  FOR  BUTTER  1297 

3004.— BUTTER,  TO  CLARIFY. 

Method. — Put  the  butter  into  a  stewpan,  heat  it  slowly,  removing 
the  scum  as  it  rises,  and  when  quite  clear,  pour  it  carefully  into  clean 
and  dry  jars,  leaving  the  sediment  behind. 

3005.— CURLED  BUTTER. 

Method. — Tie  a  strong  cloth  by  two  of  the  corners  to  an  iron  hook 
in  the  wall.  Tie  the  other  end  of  the  cloth  into  a  knot,  but  so  loosely 
that  the  index  finger  may  be  easily  passed  through  it.  Place  the 
butter  in  the  cloth,  twist  it  lightly,  thus  forcing  the  butter  through 
the  knot  in  fine  short  rolls  or  curls.  The  butter  may  then  be  garnished 
with  parsley  and  served.  Butter  for  garnishing  hams,  etc.,  should  be 
worked  until  sufficiently  soft,  and  then  used  by  means  of  a  piece  of 
stiff  paper  folded  in  the  form  of  a  cornet.  The  butter  is  squeezed  in 
fine  strings  through  the  hole  at  the  bottom  of  the  cornet,  and  a  little 
experience  soon  enables  the  worker  to  execute  various  designs. 

3006.— FAIRY  OR  FEATHERY  BUTTER. 

Method. — Work  the  butter  until  it  is  sufficiently  soft,  then  place  it 
in  a  piece  of  coarse  butter  muslin  or  some  loosely  woven  fabric  through 
which  it  can  be  forced  in  fine  particles,  and  which  must  be  previously 
wetted  with  cold  water.  Draw  the  edges  of  the  muslin  together  and 
the  butter  gently  through,  letting  it  fall  lightly  into  the  dish  in 
which  it  will  be  served,  or  round  any  dish  it  is  intended  to  garnish. 

3007.— FRESH  BUTTER,  TO  KEEP  AND  CHOOSE. 

Method. — Fresh  butter  should  be  kept  in  a  dark,  cool  and  airy  place, 
and  in  as  large  a  mass  as  possible.  Mould  as  much  only  as  is  required,  as 
eater  the  surface  exposed  the  m«  >n  n^U  there  will  be  of  it  becoming 
"rancid.  Butter  coolers  of  stoneware  are  very  much  used  for  keeping 
butter  in  warm  weather.  They  are  made  with  bell-shaped  covers,  into 
the  top  of  which  a  little  cold  water  should  be  poured,  and  in  summer 
time  very  frequently  changed.  Failing  one  of  these  useful  additions 
t«>  the  larder,  the  butter  should  be  kept  in  a  vessel  surrounded  with 
cold  water,  and  covered  with  muslin  kept  constantly  wet  by  immersing 
its  edges  in  the  water  which  fills  the  outer  vessel. 

In  choosing  fresh  butter,  see  that  it  has  a  fresh,  pleasant  smell  ;  if 
otherwise,  it  may  be  accepted  as  an  indication  that  it  has  not  been 
sufficiently  washed  from  the  buttermilk,  and  consequently  will  not 
Butter  should  be  <]uitc  dry  ;  a  considerable  amount  of  water 
is  sometimes  left  in  it,  so  as  not  to  decrease  its  weight,  and  thereby 
its  keeping  qualities  are  impaired. 


I298  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3008.— LOBSTER  BUTTER.  (Fr.— Beurre  de  Homard.) 

Ingredients. — Lobster  coral,  butter,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Dry  the  coral  thoroughly,  then  pound  it  until  smooth, 
adding  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste,  and  a  little  butter  gradually  until 
the  desired  consistency  is  attained. 

Time. — £-hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  gd. 

3009.— MONTPELIER  BUTTER.     (Fr.— Beurre  Mont- 
pelier.) 

Ingredients. — Watercress,  fresh  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Choose  fresh  young  watercress,  strip  the  leaves  from  the 
stalks,  wash  and  dry  them  thoroughly,  and  chop  them  finely.  Enclose 
the  chopped  cress  in  the  corner  of  a  clean  cloth,  dip  it  2  or  3  times  into 
cold  water,  then  squeeze  as  dry  as  possible.  Knead  it  into  the  butter, 
adding  it  by  degrees  until  the  butter  is  sufficiently  green,  then  add 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  use  as  required. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d. 

.M.ufTUS    YZ 

3010.— MOULDED  BUTTER. 

Method. — Butter  may  be  shaped  without  the  aid  of  moulds,  but 
round  butter  moulds  or  wooden  stamps  are  much  used  and 
are  made  in  a  variety  of  patterns.  They  should  be  kept  scrupu- 
lously clean,  and  before  the  butter  is  pressed  in  the  moulds  should 
be  scalded,  and  afterwards  well  soaked  in  cold  water.  The  butter 
at  once  takes  the  impress  of  the  mould,  and  may  therefore  be 
turned  out  immediately  into  the  butter  dish.  In  hot  weather  a 
little  ice  should  be  placed  either  round  or  beneath  the  butter 
dish.  Dishes  with  a  double  bottom  are  constructed  for  this  purpose. 

'3011.— SALT  BUTTER,  TO  PRESERVE  AND  TO* 
CHOOSE. 

Method. — In  large  families,  where  salt  butter  is  purchased  a  tub  at 
a  time,  the  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  turn  the  whole  of  the  butter  out, 
and,  with  a  clean  knife,  to  scrape  the  outside  ;  the  tub  should  then 
be  wiped  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  sprinkled  all  round  with  salt,  the 
butter  replaced,  and  the  lid  kept  on  to  exclude  the  air.  It  is  necessary 
to  take  these  precautions,  since  a  want  of  proper  cleanliness  in  the 
dairymaid  may  cause  the  outside  of  the  butter  to  become  rancid  ;  and 
if  the  scraping  be  neglected,  the  whole  mass  will  soon  become  spoiled. 
To  choose  salt  butter,  plunge  a  knife  into  it,  and  if,  when  drawn  out, 
the  blade  smells  rancid  or  unpleasant,  the  butter  is  bad.  The  layers 
in  tubs  will  vary  greatly,  the  butter  being  made  at  different  times  ; 


RECIPES   FOR   CHEESE  1299 

so  to  try  if  the  whole  tub  be  good,  the  cask  should  be  unhooped,  and 
the  butter  tried  between  the  staves. 

Butter  may  be  kept  fresh  for  10  or  12  days  by  a  very  simple  process. 
Knead  it  well  in  cold  water  till  the  butter-milk  is  extracted  ;  then 
put  it  in  a  glazed  jar,  invert  this  in  another,  putting  into  the  latter  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  exclude  the  air.  Renew  the  water 
every  day. 

Cheese. 

3012.— CAYENNE  CHEESE  FINGERS. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  finely-grated  cheese,  ±  of  a  Ib.  of  butter, 
£  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  salt, 
water. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  grated  cheese, 
cayenne  and  salt,  and  mix  these  ingredients  well  together.  Add 
sufficient  cold  water  to  mix  the  whole  into  a  stiff  paste,  roll  it  out  to 
about  a  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  cut  the  paste  into  fingers  3$- 
inches  long  and  £  of  an  inch  wide.  Place  them  on  a  greased  baking- 
sheet  and  bake  in  a  moderately  cool  oven  until  crisp  and  lightly 
browned.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — 45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  jd.     Sufficient  for  10  persons. 

3013. — CHEESE.     (Fr. — Fromage.) 

When  a  whole  cheese  is  bought,  and  it  is  necessary  to  preserve  some 
portion  of  it  for  a  considerable  time,  it  will  be  found  a  good  plan  to 
keep  the  cut  surfaces  of  the  cheese  covered  with  well-buttered  paper. 
The  rind  of  the  cheese  should  be  left  exposed  to  the  air,  and  it  should 
be  turned  frequently  and  its  surface  well  rubbed  first  with  a  dry  cloth 
and  afterwards  with  melted  fat  or  oil.  To  keep  moist  a  piece  of  cheese 
that  is  in  daily  use,  when  it  comes  from  the  table  wrap  it  at  once  in  a 
damp  cloth,  preferably  damped  with  beer,  and  keep  it  in  a  nearly  air- 
tight tin  or  other  receptacle. 

3014.— CHEESE,  METHODS  OF  SERVING. 

There  are  several  methods  of  serving  cheese.  In  large  establish- 
ments, where  3  or  4  kinds  are  in  daily  use,  it  is  a  convenient  plan  to 
hand  the  butter  and  biscuits  in  a  dual  dish  and  ask  what  cheese  will 
be  eaten  with  them.  Each  piece  of  cheese  should,  of  course,  be 
arranged  on  a  folded  napkin,  raised  at  the  sides  to  conceal  some  of  the 
lower  portion  of  the  cheese.  When  only  one  kind  of  cheese  is  in  use, 
and  the  number  to  be  served  is  considerable,  the  easiest  and  most 
economical  method  is  to  use  dishes  with  three  divisions,  and  fill 


1300  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

one  of  them  with  small,  square  pieces  of  cheese,  and  the  other  two 
respectively  with  butter  and  biscuits.  In  small  households  it  is  more 
economical  to  place  the  cheese  on  the  table  in  the  piece,  and  cut  off 
from  it  what  is  required. 

3015.— CHEESE   BISCUITS. 

(Fr. — Biscuits  de  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — Finely-grated  cheese,  puff  paste  trimmings,  -i  yolk  of 
egg- 

Method. — Roll  the  paste  out  thinly,  sprinkle  it  liberally  with  grated 
cheese,  and  fold  in  three.  Repeat  the  process  twice,  then  cut  it  into 
rounds  with  a  small  cutter,  brush  them  over  with  beaten  yolk  of  egg, 
and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  crisp. 

Time. — 30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  5d.  Sufficient,  allow  2  to  each 
person. 

3016.— CHEESE  BISCUITS.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 3  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  2  oz.  of  butter,  3  oz.  of  flour, 
i  yolk  of  egg,  cayenne,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  cheese,  season  to 
taste,  and  mix  into  a  stiff  dough  with  the  yolk  of  egg.  Roll  out  the 
dough  to  rather  less  than  a  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  stamp  it  into 
rounds  or  cut  it  into  fingers,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  crisp. 
The  biscuits  will  keep  for  a  long  time  in  a  tin,  and  can  be  heated  when 
wanted. 

Time. — J-hour.     Average  Cost,  5d.     Sufficient,  allow  2  to  each  person. 

3017.— CHEESE  FONDUE.  (Fr.— Fondue  de  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 3  oz.  of  finely-grated  Parmesan  or  Cheshire  cheese, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  3  whites  of  eggs,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  £  of  a 
pint  of  milk,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  small  pinch  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  mix  in  the  flour,  add  the 
milk,  and  stir  and  simmer  gently  until  smooth  and  thick.  Add  the 
cheese,  salt  and  cayenne,  and  when  well  mixed  pour  the  preparation 
on  to  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile.  Whip 
the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  them  lightly  into  the  mixture. 
Have  ready  a  well-buttered  souffle  tin  which  the  mixture  should 
about  half  fill,  pour  it  in  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about 
20  minutes.  As  the  excellence  of  this  dish  depends  on  its  lightness 
it  should  be  served  the  moment  it  is  ready.  Overcooking  will  cause 
it  to  be  tough,  and  standing  after  it  is  cooked  will  make  it  heavy. 

Time. — |-hour.     Average  Cost,  9d.     Sufficient  for  i  dish. 


RECIPES   FOR   CHEESE  1301 

3018.— CHEESE  FONDUE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  pz.  of  finely-grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of 
flour,  3  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  a  good  pinch  of  bicarbonate  of  potash, 
mustard,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — The  potash,  which  is  added  to  assist  in  the  decomposition 
of  the  coagulated  casein  in  the  cheese,  should  be  dissolved  in  the  milk. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  when  well  mixed,  pour 
in  the  milk,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Simmer  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then 
add  the  cheese,  mixed  mustard,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  stir  until 
the  cheese  is  quite  melted.  Let  the  mixture  cool  slightly,  then  stir 
in  the  well-beaten  eggs,  pour  into  a  well-buttered  fireproof  dish,  and 
bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  set.  Serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — £-hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.     Sufficient  for  i  dish. 

3019.— CHEESE  FONDUE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  teacupful  of  grated  cheese,  £  a  teacupful  of  fine 
breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  3  whites  of  eggs,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  £  of  a 
pint  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  cayenne  to  taste. 

Method. — Heat  the  milk  nearly  to  boiling  point,  add  the  butter,  stir 
until  melted,  then  pour  the  milk  over  the  breadcrumbs.  Cover,  and 
let  them  stand  for  10  minutes,  then  stir  in  the  cheese,  yolks  of  eggs, 
salt,  cayenne  and  pepper  to  taste.  Whip  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  stir  them  lightly  into  the  mixture,  turn  it  into  a  well-buttered 
souffle  tin  or  fireproof  dish,  and  bake  until  set  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven.  Serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — £-hour.     Average  Cost,  9d.     Sufficient  for  one  dish. 

3020.— CHEESE     PATTIES.          (Fr.— Bouchees     au 
Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 4  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
£  a  pint  of  milk,  4  eggs,  salt  and  cayenne,  a  little  puff  paste. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk, 
and  boil  for  3  or  4  minutes,  stirring  meanwhile.  Let  the  mixture  cool 
slightly,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  cook  gently  for  2  or  3  minutes,  but 
do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Add  the  cheese,  season  to  taste,  then  stir  in  as 
lightly  as  possible  the  previously  stiffly-whipped  whites  of  eggs.  Have 
ready  some  patty-pans  lined  with  thinly  rolled  out  puff  paste,  fill  with 
the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  9d.  to  lod.      Sufficient  for  9  persons. 

3021.— CHEESE    RAMAKINS.       (Fr.— Ramequin   de 
Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  Parmesan  cheese,  i  oz.  of  Cheshire  cheese,  i  oz. 


1302          HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

of  butter,  \  a  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  i  egg,  mace,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  milk. 

Method. — Barely  cover  the  breadcrumbs  with  boiling  milk,  let  tliem 
stand  covered  for  10  minutes,  then  pound  well  in  a  mortar.  Add  the 
cheese,  previously  cut  finely,  the  butter,  the  yolk  of  the  egg,  season  to 
taste,  and  continue  the  pounding  until  a  perfectly  smooth  mixture  is 
obtained.  Whip  the  white  of  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  it  lightly  into 
the  mixture,  pour  it  into  well-buttered  china  or  paper  ramakin  cases, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  set. 

Time. — ^-hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

3022.— CHEESE  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Thin  slices  of  cheese,  brown  bread,  butter. 

Method. — Cut  thin  slices  of  bread  from  a  brown  loaf  at  least  one  day 
old,  and  spread  them  liberally  with  butter.  Cover  half  the  prepared 
slices  with  thin  slices  of  cheese,  cover  with  the  remaining  half,  and  cut 
into  squares  or  triangles.  Place  them  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  on  a 
buttered  baking-sheet,  and  when  both  sides  of  the  bread  are  crisp  and 
brown,  arrange  the  sandwiches  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  as 
quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  5  persons. 

3023.— CHEESE     STRAWS.       (Fr.— Failles   au   Par- 
mesan.) 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  finely-grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of 
breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  of  flour,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  a  small  pinch  of 
cayenne,  water. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  breadcrumbs,  cheese, 
cayenne  and  salt,  and  just  sufficient  cold  water  to  mix  into  a  stiff 
paste.  Roll  the  paste  out  to  about  a  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  cut  it 
into  strips  about  3  inches  long  and  £  inch  wide,  and  place  the  strips 
on  a  greased  baking-sheet.  Bake  in  a  moderately  cool  oven  until 
crisp,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — £-hour.     Average  Cost,  4^d.     Sufficient  for  5  persons. 

Note. — For  other  methods  of  making  cheese  straws,  see  chapter  on 
Savouries. 

3024.— CREAM  CHEESE.     (Fr.— Creme  de  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  double  cream. 

Method. — Tie  the  cream  in  a  clean  wet  cloth,  and  hang  it  in  a  cool 
place  for  6  or  7  days.  At  the  end  of  this  time  put  it  into  a  mould, 
previously  lined  with  butter  muslin,  and  place  it  under  slight  pressure 
for  2  or  3  days,  turning  it  2  or  3  times  daily. 


RECIPES   FOR   CHEESE  1303 

3025.  -MACARONI   AND   CHEESE.     (Fr.— Macaroni 
au  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  3  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  good  gravy,  4  tablespoonfuls  of 
cream,  salt,  cayenne  and  pepper. 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  short  lengths,  put  them  into  the 
gravy  when  quite  boiling,  and  simmer  until  tender.  Strain,  put  the 
macaroni  into  a  deep  fireproof  dish,  and  return  the  gravy  to  the  stew- 
pan.  Add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  cream,  salt,  pepper  and 
cayenne  to  taste,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  slightly  thickens.  Pour 
over  the  macaroni,  sprinkle  on  the  grated  cheese,  add  the  butter  broken 
into  small  pieces,  and  brown  with  a  salamander,  or  in  a  brisk  oven. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.     Sufficient  for  one  dish. 

3026.— MACARONI    CHEESE.        (Fr.— Macaroni    au 
Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — 4  oz.  of  macaroni,  3  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  made 
mustard,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  brown  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  small  pieces,  put  them  into 
slightly-salted  rapidly-boiling  water,  boil  until  tender,  and  drain  well. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  and  boil 
well,  stirring  continuously.  Now  add  the  macaroni,  cheese,  mustard, 
a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  mix  all  well  together.  Have 
ready  a  well-buttered  fireproof  dish,  turn  the  mixture  into  it,  sprinkle 
the  surface  with  brown  breadcrumbs  and  grated  cheese,  place  a  few 
small  pieces  of  butter  on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until 
nicely  browned.  If  preferred,  the  mixture  may  be  cooked  in  scallop 
shells  or  ramakin  cases. 

Time. — '-hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  one  dish. 

3027.— POTTED  CHEESE. 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter, 
£  of  a  pint  of  Chablis  or  Sauterne,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace,  a 
good  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,  clarified  butter. 

Method. — Remove  the  rind,  cut  the  cheese  into  small  pieces,  pound 
it  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  the  £  Ib.  of  butter  gradually. 
Season  to  taste,  stir  in  the  wine,  press  the  preparation  into  small  pots, 
and  cover  with  clarified  butter.  Store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Time. — 1\  hours.     Average  Cost,  ^s.  pd,  to  45.     Sufficient  for  9  pots. 


1304  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3028.— STILTON  CHEESE,  TO  SERVE. 

Stilton  cheese  takes  first  rank  as  an  English  cheese.  Those  made  in 
May  or  June  are  considered  ready  for  use  at  Christmas,  but  they  are 
not  in  prime  condition  until  they  have  been  kept  for  at  least  12  months. 
Good  old  cheese  that  owes  its  flavour  entirely  to  the  full  development 
of  the  constituents  comprising  it  is  undoubtedly  the  finest,  but  many 
prefer  the  stronger  flavour  imparted  by  adding  daily  small  quantities 
of  port,  sherry,  old  ale  or  good  stout,  the  liquor  being  poured  in  through 
holes  in  the  top  of  the  cheese.  In  serving  a  Stilton  cheese  the  top  of 
it  should  be  cut  off  to  form  a  lid,  and  a  napkin  or  piece  of  white  paper, 
with  a  frill  at  the  top,  pinned  round.  When  the  cheese  goes  from  table, 
the  lid  should  be  replaced.  Dishes  of  china  or  earthenware  for  Stilton 
and  other  cheeses  keep  the  cheese  in  good  condition  and  prevent  waste. 

3029.— TOASTED  CHEESE. 

Ingredients. — Cheese,  butter,  ale  or  stout,  mustard,  pepper,  toast. 

Method — To  serve  this  dish  in  perfection  either  a  chafing-dish  or  an 
old-fashioned  cheese-toaster  with  an  outer  dish  containing  boiling 
water  is  needed.  Cut  the  cheese  into  thin  slices,  place  them  in  the 
cheese-toaster,  spread  on  a  little  mustard,  season  them  with  pepper, 
and,  unless  the  cheese  be  very  rich,  add  the  butter  broken  into  small 
pieces.  Pour  over  the  whole  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  ale  or  stout 
(milk  may  be  substituted),  stand  the  dish  on  a  hot  place  or  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven,  and  cook  until  the  cheese  is  melted.  Serve  at 
once  in  the  hot-water  dish,  and  hand  crisp  dry  toast  separately. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d.         Sufficient  for  i  person. 

3030.— TOASTED  CHEESE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  bread,  butter,  mustard  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  bread  into  slices  about  \  an  inch  in  thickness, 
toast  them,  trim  off  the  crust,  and  cut  each  slice  across  into  4  squares. 
Cover  each  square  with  a  thin  slice  of  cheese  toasted  on  one  side,  place 
them  before  a  sharp  fire  or  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and  serve  as  soon 
as  sufficiently  toasted. 

3031.— TOASTED  CHEESE,  OR  WELSH    RAREBIT. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  Cheshire  or  Cheddar  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  either  milk  or  ale,  i  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard, 
hot  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  cheese  cut  into  small 
pieces,  stir  until  melted,  then  add  the  milk  or  ale  gradually,  mustard  and 
season  to  taste.  Have  ready  some  hot-buttered  toast,  pour  the  cheese 
preparation  on  to  it,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Time. — 15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  icd.     Sufficient  for  3  persons. 


CHEESE  AND  EGG  SAVORIES. 


.  (  bMM  •!'  \itoU.         2.  Scrambled  Eggs.        3.  Cold  <  .mis. 


97 


CHEESE  AND  EGGS* 


i.     Cheese  Straws.          2.     Scotch  Eggs.         3.    Cheese  Tartlets. 


98 


RECIPES   FOR   EGGS  1305 

Eggs. 

3032.— ALPINE  EGGS.     (Fr.— Oeufs  a  la  Suisse.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  6  oz.  of  cheese,  2  or.  of  butter,  a  little  finely- 
chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Butter  a  fireproof  baking-dish  thickly,  line  it  with  the 
greater  part  of  the  cheese  cut  in  thin  slices,  and  break  the  eggs  over 
this,  keeping  the  yolks  whole.  Grate  the  remainder  of  the  cheese  or 
chop  it  finely,  and  mix  with  it  the  parsley.  Season  the  eggs  liberally 
with  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle  over  them  the  grated  cheese,  and  add 
the  remainder  of  the  butter  broken  into  small  pieces.  Bake  in  a  quick 
for  10  minutes  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 10  minutes  to  bake.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

3033.— BAKED  EGGS.     (Fr.— Oeufs  au  Four.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  2  oz.  of  finely-grated  cheese,  2  oz.  of  bread- 
crumbs, $  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt, 
cayenne. 

Method. — Butter  6  china  or  ramakin  cases,  put  the  seasoning  into 
them,  and  break  an  egg  into  each.     Put  an  equal  portion  of  i 
into  each  cup,  cover  with  breadcrumbs,  and  add  a  small  piece  of  l>. 

moderate  oven  for  about  5  minutes,  or  until  set,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 5  minutes  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for 
4  persons. 

3034.— BAKED    EGGS,    COQUETTE    STYLE.     (Fr>- 
Oeufs  a  la  Coquette.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  2  oz.  of  finely  chopped  ham  or  tongue,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  6  dessertspoonfuls  of  cream,  nutmeg,  cayenne  pepper  and  salt. 
Method. — Liberally  butter  6  ramakin  cases,  divide  the  remainder  of 
the  butter  into  equal  portions,  and  place  one  in  each  case.  To  each 
add  a  dessertspoonful  of  cream,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg  and  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  and  place  them  in  the  oven  on  a  baking  sheet.  When  the 

icr  break  and  add  the  eggs  carefully,  pi 
pinch  of  cayenne  in  the  centre  of  each  yolk  and  replace  in  the 

sufficiently  cooked  sprinkle  the  chopped  ham  or  tongue  lightly 
on  the  white  part  of  each  egg,  taking  care  to  leave  the  yolk  unco\ 

•  -rve  hot. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons.  Seasonable  at  .< 


1306  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3035.— BOILED  EGGS. 

Method. — Eggs  for  boiling  cannot  be  too  fresh,  but  a  longer  time 
should  be  allowed  for  boiling  a  new-laid  egg  than  one  that  is  3  or  4 
days  old.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  put  the  eggs  into 
it  gently  with  a  spoon,  letting  the  spoon  touch  the  bottom  of  the 
saucepan  before  it  is  withdrawn,  to  avoid  cracking  the  shell.  For 
those  who  like  eggs  lightly  boiled,  3  to  3^  minutes  will  be  found 
sufficient,  4  minutes'  gentle  boiling  will  lightly  coagulate  the  white, 
and  5  minutes  will  set  it  firmly.  Eggs  for  salads  and  sandwiches  should 
be  allowed  to  boil  for  10  minutes.  Cracking  the  shell  and  allowing  the 
egg  to  remain  in  water  until  cold  prevents  a  dark  rim  forming  round  the 
yolk. 

EGGS. — When  fresh  eggs  are  dropped  into  a  vessel  full  of  boiling  water  they  crack,  because  the 
eggs,  being  well  filled,  the  shells  give  way  to  the  expansion  of  the  interior  fluids,  caused  by  the  heat. 
If  the  volume  of  the  hot  water  be  small,  the  shells  do  not  crack,  since  its  temperature  is  reduced  by 
the  eggs  before  the  interior  dilation  can  take  place.  Stale  eggs  do  not  crack,  the  air  inside  being 
easily  compressed. 

3036.— BUTTERED  EGGS.     (Fr.— Oeufs  Brouilles  au 
Beurre.) 

Ingredients. — 2  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  get  hot.  Break  the 
eggs  into  a  basin,  add  seasoning  to  taste,  beat  slightly,  then  pour  into 
the  stewpan  containing  the  butter.  Stir  them  briskly  over  a  moderate 
heat  until  quite  thick,  then  pour  over  the  prepared  toast,  and  serve 
at  once. 

Time. — 5  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3037.— DUCKS'  EGGS. 

Ducks'  eggs  are  more  strongly  flavoured  than  those  of  fowls,  and 
when  plainly  boiled,  are  not  generally  liked.  They  may  be  used  with 
advantage  in  all  culinary  preparations,  i  duck's  egg  being  equal  to  2 
small  hens'  eggs. 

3038.— EGG  FRITTERS,  MILANAISE  STYLE.  (Fr.- 
Beignets  d'Oeufs  a  la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — 4  hard-boiled  eggs,  \  an  oz.  of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of  flour, 
\  of  a  pint  of  milk,  yolk  of  i  egg,  i  oz.  of  finely  chopped  ham  or  tongue, 
4  oz.  of  finely  chopped  chicken  or  veal,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped 
parsley,  i  small  shallot  chopped  and  fried  in  butter,  lemon-juice,  salt, 
pepper,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  frying  fat  and  parsley. 

Method. — Halve  the  eggs  lengthwise,  and  remove  the  yolks,  melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  boil  gently  for 
2  or  3  minutes,  then  put  in  the  yolk  of  egg.  Add  the  chopped  ham 
and  chicken  or  veal,  parsley,  shallot,  yolks  of  the  hard  boiled  eggs,  a 


RECIPES   FOR   EGGS  1307 

little  lemon- juice  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Fill  the  cavities  of  the 
whites  of  eggs  with  the  preparation,  coat  carefully  with  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Drain  well  and  serve 
garnished  with  crisply  fried  parsley. 

Time. — 30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.     Sufficient  for  5  persons. 

3039.— EGG     FRITTERS,    ROYAL    STYLE.       (Fr.- 
Beignets  d'Oeufs  a  la  Royale.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  salt,  pepper,  frying 
batter  (see  No.  1645),  frying  fat. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  cream,  season  to  taste  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  pour  the  preparation  into  a  well  buttered  plain  mould. 
Steam  gently  until  set,  let  it  cool,  then  unmould  and  cut  into  strips 
about  2\  inches  long  and  £  an  inch  in  thickness.  Make  the  bat 

•  >d,  dip  in  the  egg  strips,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  lightly 
browned.     Drain  well  and  serve. 

Time. — To  steam  the  custard,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is. 
Su  flic  lent  for  7  or  8  persons. 

3040.— EGG  KROMESKIS. 

(Fr. — Cromesquis  d'Oeufs.) 

Ingredients.— ^  h;ird-boiled  eggs,  the  yolks  of  2  raw  eggs,  |  of  a  pint 
of  white  sauce  (No.  222),  a  level  tablespoonful  of  chopped  tongue  or 
ham,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  truffles,  5  thin  pancakes  (see 
Pancakes,  Frying  Batter),  salt,  pepper,  frying  fat. 

Method. — Chop  the  eggs  coarsely,  add  the  sauce,  yolks  of  raw  eggs, 
tongue,  truffle,  seasoning  to  taste,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes.  Let  the  preparation  cool,  then  divide  it  into  pieces,  the  size 
and  shape  of  a  cork,  and  enfold  in  squares  of  pancake.  Dip  separately 
into  frying  batter,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned,  drain  well,  and 

Time. — 40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  jd.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

3041.— EGGS    A   LA   COURTET.      (Fr.— Oeufs    a    la 
Courtet.) 

Ingredients. — 4  tomatoes,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  mayonnaise  sauce,  i  gill 
of  aspic  jelly,  2  eggs,  i  £  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  salad. 

Method. — Cut   the  tomatoes  in    halves,  and  scoop  out  the    centre. 

ready   the   eggs   scrambled    (as    for    Buttered    Eggs),   fill   the 

•oes  with  the  preparation,  and  set  aside  until  quite  cold.     Coat 

them  with  cool  aspic  jelly,  and  when  set,  serve  garnished  with  salad 

dressed  with  mayonnaise. 

Time.— £-hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.     Sufficient  for  4  persons. 


1308  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3042.— EGGS    A    LA    DREUX.      (Fr.— Oeufs    a     la 
Dreux.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  lean  cooked  ham,  ^  an  oz.  of  butter, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
6  small  rounds  of  buttered  toast,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Chop  the  ham  finely,  and  mix  with  it  the  parsley.  Coat 
6  deep  patty-pans  thickly  with  butter,  and  cover  them  completely  with 
a  thin  layer  of  ham  preparation.  Break  an  egg  into  each  pan,  taking 
care  to  keep  the  yolk  whole,  sprinkle  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and 
salt,  and  add  to  each  an  equal  portion  of  cream  and  a  small  piece  of 
butter.  Place  the  patty-pans  in  a  deep  baking-tin,  surround  them 
to  half  their  depth  with  boiling  water,  and  cook  them  in  a  moderate 
oven  until  the  whites  are  set.  Have  ready  the  rounds  of  toast,  cut  to 
the  size  of  the  patty-pans,  dish  the  eggs  on  them,  and  serve. 

Time. — 10  minutes  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.  Sufficient 
for  6  persons. 

3043.— EGGS  A  LA  MAITRE  D'HOTEL. 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  2  oz.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  £  of 
a  pint  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of 
lemon-juice,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the 
milk,  and  boil  for  2  minutes.  Have  ready  the  eggs  boiled  hard,  remove 
the  shells,  cut  each  egg  into  4  or  8  pieces,  and  arrange  them  neatly  on 
a  dish.  Season  the  sauce  to  taste,  whisk  in  the  remainder  of  the 
butter,  adding  it  gradually  in  small  pieces,  stir  in  the  parsley  and 
lemon- juice,  then  pour  the  sauce  over  the  eggs  and  serve. 

Time. — 20  minutes.      Average  Cost,  lod.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

3044.— EGGS,   COLBERT   STYLE.     (Fr.— Oeufs   a   la 
Colbert.) 

Ingredients. — 6  new  laid  eggs,  grated  Parmesan  or  Gruyere  cheese, 
salt,  pepper,  frying  fat  or  oil. 

Method. — Break  each  egg  carefully  into  a  cup,  season  liberally  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Sprinkle  over  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cheese,  and 
drop  carefully  into  hot  fat  or  oil.  Fry  until  they  acquire  a  nice  brown 
colour,  turning  frequently  with  a  wooden  spoon  meanwhile,  then 
drain  well,  sprinkle  liberally  with  cheese  and  serve. 

Time. — To  fry,  5  or  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons. 


RECIPES   FOR   EGGS  1309 

3045.— EGGS,  FLORENTINE  STYLE.     (Fr.— Oeufs  a 
la  Florentine.) 

Ingredients. — 6  poached  eggs,  6  pastry  croustades,  spinach  puree, 
£  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce  No.  222,  i  level  dessertspoonful  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese. 

Method. — Spread  a  thin  layer  of  spinach  puree  at  the  bottom  of 
each  croustade,  put  in  an  egg,  and  cover  with  sauce  which  must  be 
previously  mixed  with  the  cheese  and  seasoned  to  taste.  Make 
thoroughly  hot  and  serve. 

Time. — 10  minutes,  in  addition  to  time  spent  in  preparing  eggs,  crou- 
stades and  spinach.  Average  Cost,  is.  $d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

3046.— EGGS  IN  BAKED  POTATOES.      (Fr.— Oeufs  a 
la  Parmentier.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  3  large  potatoes,  i  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  £  an  oz. 
of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  (about)  of  Bechamel  or  white  sauce  No.  178  or 
222,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Wash  and  scrub  the  potatoes,  bake  them,  cut  them  in 
halves,  and  scoop  out  the  greater  part  of  the  inside.  Poach  the  eggs 
and  trim  them  neatly.  Put  a  little  sauce  in  each  halved  potato,  and 
add  an  egg.  Mix  the  remainder  of  the  sauce  with  half  the  cheese,  and 
spread  it  lightly  over  the  eggs.  Sprinkle  first  with  breadcrumbs,  then 
with  cheese,  add  little  bits  of  butter,  brown  the  surface  in  a  hot  oven, 
and  serve. 

Time. — Altogether,  i|-  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons. 

3047. — EGGS,  IN  CASES.     (Fr. — Oeufs   en   Caisses.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs  (about),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream, 
i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  i  finely  chopped  shallot,  butter,  salt, 
pepper,  6  china  or  paper  ramakin  cases. 

Method.— Brush  the  inside  of  the  ramakin  cases  over  with  clarified 
butter  or  oil,  and  place  them  on  a  baking-tin  in  the  oven  for  a  few 
minutes.  Fry  the  shallot  in  a  little  butter,  then  drain  and  put  it 
equally  divided  into  the  cases.  To  the  breadcrumbs  add  half  the 
cheese  and  parsley  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  put 
an  equal  amount  of  the  mixture  into  each  case.  Add  very  small  piece  of 
butter,  carefully  break  and  put  in  the  eggs,  and  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Pour  a  little  cream  over  each  egg,  add  the  remainder  of 
the  cheese,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  set,  then  sprinkle  with 
y  and  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 


I3io  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3048.— EGGS,  IN  MAYONNAISE  ASPIC.     (Fr.— Oeufs 
a  la  Courtet.) 

Ingredients. — 3  large  tomatoes,  6  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  cream,  salt,  pepper,  mayonnaise  sauce,  aspic  jelly,  salad. 

Method. — Cut  the  tomatoes  across  in  halves,  squeeze  out  all  the 
juice  and  remove  some  of  the  pulp.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  cream 
and  seasoning  to  taste,  pour  the  preparation  into  a  stewpan  containing 
the  butter,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  thickens.  Let  it  cool,  then 
fill  the  prepared  tomatoes,  piling  the  mixture  somewhat  high,  and 
when  quite  cold  coat  first  with  mayonnaise  sauce  and  afterwards  with 
aspic  jelly.  Serve  on  a  well  dressed  salad. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons. 

3049.— EGGS,    MORNAY    STYLE.     (Fr.—Oeuis    a    la 
Mornay.) 

Ingredients. — 6  hard-boiled  eggs,  about  i  oz.  of  butter,  i^  oz.  of 
grated  cheese,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce  No.  222,  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  eggs  into  thick  slices,  place  them  on  a  well  but- 
tered fireproof  dish,  and  sprinkle  them  lightly  with  nutmeg  and  more 
liberally  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  i  oz.  of  cheese  to  the  sauce,  pour 
it  over  the  eggs.  Sprinkle  thickly  with  cheese,  and  add  a  few  tiny 
pieces  of  butter.  Brown  the  surface  in  a  hot  oven,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 

3050.— EGGS,     PIEMONTAISE    STYLE.     (Fr.—Oeuis 
a  la  Piemontaise.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  4  oz.  Carolina  rice,  3  or  4  ripe  but  firm  toma- 
toes, 2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  2  slices  of  bacon 
fried  and  cut  into  fine  strips,  black  pepper,  stock,  salt,  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  cover  it  with  stock  and  boil 
gently  until  soft  and  dry,  adding  more  stock  when  necessary.  Mean- 
while squeeze  the  juice  from  the  tomatoes  and  chop  them  finely.  When 
the  rice  is  ready  add  to  it  the  tomatoes,  bacon,  cheese  and  a  good 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  press  into  a  flat  mould,  which  after"- 
wards  invert  on  to  a  hot  dish.  Fry  the  eggs  in  clarified  butter  or  oil, 
trim  them  neatly,  and  arrange  them  in  a  circle  round  the  rice  shape. 
Place  a  tiny  pinch  of  black  pepper  in  the  centre  of  each  yolk  of  egg,  and 
serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 


RECIPES   FOR  EGGS  i;,n 

3051.— EGGS,    POLONAISE    STYLE.     (Fr.— Oeufs    a 
la  Polonaise.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  i  tablespoon ful  of  cream,  i  tcaspoontul  of  finely 
chopped  parsley,  i  tcaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  chives,  i  tcacupful 
of  small  dice  of  bread,  clarified  butter,  salt,  pepper. 

Method.— Fry  the  dice  of  bread  in  clarified  butter  and  drain  \\vll. 
Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  cream,  parsley,  chives,  fried  bread  and  a  good 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  the  preparation  into  a  stew- 
pan  containing  about  2  tablespoonfuls  of  clarified  butter.  Stir  over 
the  lire  until  the  mixture  is  thick  enough  to  spread,  then  drop  it  in 
spoonfuls  into  hot  clarified  butter,  fry,  drain  well  ami  s. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons. 

3052.— EGGS  SUR  LE  PLAT. 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Spread  a  fireproof  dish  thickly  with  butter,  break  the  eggs 

into  it.  taking  care  t»  keep  the  yolks  whole,  and  season  them  lightly 

r.      Put  the  remainder  of  the  butter,  cut  into    very 

small  pieces,  on  the  top  of  the  •  !  hake  in  a  moderately  hot 

oven  until  the  whites  become  set.  but  not  haul.  Serve  in  the  dish  in 
which  they  were  - 

Time.      i<>  minutes.     Average  Cost,  sd.     Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3053.  -EGGS,  TO  CHOOSE. 

mess  of  eggs  may  be  tested  in  several  ways.  One  ingenious 
apparatus  is  a  speculum,  furnished  with  an  interior  looking-glass, 
which  renders  the  egg  sufficiently  transparent  to  show  it  ; 
infected,  or  really  bad.  If  fresh,  a  clear  disk  is  thrown  ;  if  stale,  a 
cloudy  disk  with  spots  ;  and  if  bad,  a  dark  unsightly  disk  is  visible. 
Another  method  of.  ascertaining  their  frcsl  »  hold  them  before 

a  lighted  candle  or  to  the  light.     If  the  egg  looks  clear,  it   will  be  per- 
fectly good  ;  but  if  there  is  a  black  spot  attached  to  the  shell.it   is 
less.     The  former  test  cannot  be  put  into  practice  when  pur- 
•i£  eggs  in  the  ordinary  way,  and  the  latter  test  can  only  be  applied 
•lit  time  when  an  .  light  is  burning.     To  an  experienced 

buyer  the  size,  weight  and  appearance  of  eggs  indicate  their  value, 
eggs  being  considerably  lighter   than   those  newly  laid.     Eggs 
that  cannot  be  relied  on  should  always  be  broken  separately. 

Eggs  contain,    for    their    bulk,  a    greater  quantity  of   nutriment 

ny  other  article  of  food.     In  100  parts  there  are  73-50  parts  of 

;o  of  proteids.  i  i  60  of  fats,  and  i  -40  of  salts.     It  does  not, 

'How  that  ci'_  ueak  digestions  ;    quite 


1312  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  contrary,  for  it  is  often  a  great  object  to  give  the  stomach  a  large 
surface  to  work  upon,  a  considerable  volume  of  ingesta,  over  which  the 
nutritive  matter  is  diffused,  and  so  exposed  to  the  action  of  the 
gastric  juice  at  many  points ;  for  there  are  many  persons  who  cannot 
digest  eggs,  however  cooked.  The  indigestibility  of  eggs  decreases  in 
proportion  to  the  degree  in  which  they  are  hardened  by  boiling. 

3054.— EGGS,  TO  KEEP,  FOR  WINTER  USE. 

Method. — Procure  the  eggs  warm  from  the  nest,  grease  them  thoroughly 
all  over  with  butter,  lard  or  oil,  lay  them  in  a  box  on  a  thick  layer  of 
bran,  and  surround  each  egg  with  a  little  bran,  to  prevent  them  touch- 
ing each  other.  Cover  each  layer  of  eggs  thickly  with  bran. 

3055.— EGGS  WITH  BLACK  BUTTER.     (Fr.— Oeufs 
frits  au  Beurre  Noir.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  2  oz.  of  butter,  anchovy  paste,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  finely-chopped  parsley,  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan  or  frying-pan,  and  fry  the 
eggs,  taking  care  to  keep  the  yolks  whole.  Have  ready  some  well- 
buttered  toast  cut  into  small  rounds,  spread  them  lightly  with  anchovy 
paste,  then  place  the  eggs  on  them.  Re-heat  the  butter  with  the 
tarragon  vinegar,  cook  it  until  dark  brown,  then  pour  it  over  the  eggs 
and  serve  them  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

3056.— EGGS  WITH  MUSHROOMS.     (Fr.— Oeufs  aux 
Champignons.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  12  small  mushrooms,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  small 
onions,  £  a  pint  of  good  gravy,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Boil  the  eggs  hard,  and  when  cold  cut  them  into  rather 
thin  slices.  Slice,  and  fry  the  mushrooms  and  onions  in  the  butter, 
add  the  gravy,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  season  to  taste.  Put  in  the  sliced 
eggs,  let  them  become  thoroughly  hot,  then  dish  carefully,  and  serve. 

Time. — £-hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  6J.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

3057.— EGGS  WITH  WHITE  SAUCE.     (Fr.— Oeufs  d 
la  Tripe.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  good  white  sauce  (see  Sauces),  a 
little  finely-chopped  parsley,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 

Method. — Boil  the  eggs  hard,  let  them  remain  in  water  until  quite 
cold,  then  divide  each  one  into  slices  or  small  sections.  Make  the  sauce 
as  directed,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  cream. 


RECIPES  FOR    EGGS  1313 

Arrange  the  prepared  eggs  in  6  china  coquille  cases,  or  failing  these, 
in  one  dish,  cover  them  with  sauce,  sprinkle  lightly  with  parsley,  then 
serve. 

Time. — £-hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

3058.— FRICASSEE  OF  EGGS.  (Fr.— Fricassee  d'Oeufs.) 

Ingredients. — 4  hard-boiled  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces), 
fried  or  toasted  croutons  of  bread,  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  eggs  hard,  cut  them  into  rather  thick  slices,  and 
reserve  the  yolk  of  i  for  garnishing.  Prepare  the  sauce  as  directed, 
season  to  taste,  put  in  the  sliced  eggs,  and  let  them  become  thoroughly 
hot.  Arrange  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  with  parsley,  and  yolk 
of  egg  previously  passed  through  a  fine  sieve,  garnish  with  the  croutons, 
then  serve. 

Time. — £-hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

3059.— FRIED  EGGS.     (Fr.— Oeufs  Frits.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  2  oz.  of  butter  or  fat,  toasted  bread. 

Method. — Heat  the  butter  or  fat  in  a  fryingpan.  Break  the  eggs 
into  cups,  slip  them  gently  in  the  hot  butter  or  fat,  and  fry  until  the 
whites  are  set.  Whilst  they  are  frying,  draw  the  whites  gently  over 
the  yolks  with  a  spoon,  and  when  set,  baste  them  well  with  th.e  butter 
or  fat.  Take  the  eggs  up  with  a  slice,  drain  well  from  fat,  trim  them 
neatly,  and  serve  on  slices  of  toast.  If  the  eggs  are  to  be  served  with 
ham  or  bacon,  cook  them  in  the  fat  obtained  by  frying  the  same. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

3060.— OVERTURNED  EGGS. 

Ingredients. — Eggs,  breadcrumbs,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Butter  some  china  ramakin  cases  or  very  small  patty-pans 
thoroughly.  Coat  them  rather  thickly  with  breadcrumbs,  into  each 
one  break  an  egg,  and  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Bake 
gently  until  set,  then  invert  them  carefully  on  to  a  hot  dish,  and  serve. 

3061.— OX  EYES. 

Ingredients. — Eggs,  stale  bread,  sour  cream,  milk,  butter. 

Method.— Cut  some  slices  of  stale  bread  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 
Toast  and  stamp  them  into  rounds  3  inches  in  diameter,  then  take  out 
the  middle  of  each  round  with  a  i£  inch  diameter  cutter.  Place  the 
rings  in  a  well-buttered  dish,  pour  over  them  gradually  as  much  sour 
cream  as  they  will  absorb  without  becoming  sodden,  then  break  i  egg 

uu 


1314         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

carefully  into  each  ring.     Sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  cover 
each  egg  with  i  teaspoonful  of  new  milk,  and  bake  gently  until  the 
whites  are  set,  but  not  hard. 
Time.— 5  to  6  minutes. 

3062.— PARMENTIER     EGGS.        (Fr.— Oeufs     a     la 
Parmentier.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  3  large  potatoes,  i  oz.  of  grated  cheese,  £  an  oz. 
of  butter,  i  gill  of  white  sauce,  breadcrumbs,  lemon- juice,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Scrub  the  potatoes  thoroughly,  bake  them  until  done,  cut 
them  in  halves,  scoop  out  the  mealy  inside,  and  put  in  a  little  sauce. 
Poach  the  eggs  in  salted  water  flavoured  with  lemon- juice,  and  place 
them  carefully  in  the  halved  potatoes.  Mix  \  the  cheese  with  the 
remaining  sauce,  and  sprinkle  it  lightly  over  the  eggs.  Sprinkle  first 
with  breadcrumbs,  then  with  cheese,  put  small  pieces  of  butter  on  the 
top,  and  brown  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d.     Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

3063.— POACHED  EGGS.     (Fr.— Oeufs  poches.) 

Ingredients. — Eggs,  buttered  toast,  salt,  vinegar,  or  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Eggs  for  poaching  should  be  fresh,  but  not  new-laid ;  for 
if  poached  before  they  have  been  laid  36  hours,  the  white  is  so  milky 
that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  coagulate  it.  To  prepare,  boil  some 
water  in  a  shallow  stewpan  or  deep  fryingpan,  add  salt  to  taste,  and 
allow  to  each  pint  of  water  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  or  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice.  Break  the  egg  into  a  cup,  taking  care  to  keep  the  yolk 
whole,  and  when  the  water  boils,  remove  the  pan  to  the  side  of  the 
fire,  and  gently  slip  the  egg  into  it.  Tilt  the  pan,  with  a  tablespoon 
gently  fold  the  white  of  the  egg  over  the  yolk,  so  as  to  produce  a  plump 
appearance,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  white  is  set.  Take  it  up 
carefully  with  a  slice,  trim  the  edges  if  necessary,  and  serve  either  on 
buttered  toast,  slices  of  ham  or  bacon,  or  spinach. 

Time. — 5  minutes  to  cook. 

3064.— POACHED    EGGS    WITH    SPINACH.     (Fr.- 
Oeufs  poches  aux  Epinards.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  i  pint  of  spinach  puree,  either  fresh  or  tinned, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  brown  sauce,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice  or  vinegar,  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  and  sippets  of  toasted  bread. 

Method. — Prepare  the  spinach  puree  (see  Chapter  on  Vegetables), 
place  it  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  butter,  a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt, 
pepper  and  the  brown  sauce,  and  make  thoroughly  hot.  Meanwhile 


RECIPES  FOR  EGGS  1315 

poach  the  eggs  and  turn  them  neatly.  Turn  the  spinach  on  to  a  hot 
dish,  flatten  the  surface  lightly  ;  upon  it  place  the  eggs  and  garnish 
with  sippets  of  toasted  bread.  Serve  good  gravy  or  brown  sauce 
separately. 

Time. — 20  minutes  after  the  puree  is  made.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3065.— POACHED  EGGS    WITH    TOMATO    SAUCE. 
(Fr. — Oeufs  poches  a  la  Tomate.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  4  oz.  of  rice,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato 
eauce  (see  No.  282,  Sauces),  about  £  a  pint  of  stock,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  add  it  to  the  boiling  stock,  cook 
gently  until  all  the  stock  has  become  absorbed,  leaving  the  rice  soft 
and  dry,  then  stir  in  the  butter  and  season  to  taste.  Poach  the  eggs 
until  firm  and  trim  them  neatly.  Arrange  the  rice  lightly  on  a  hot  dish, 
place  the  eggs  upon  it,  and  pour  the  hot  sauce  round  and  serve. 

Time.—  i  £  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3066.— PLOVERS'  EGGS.     (Fr.— Oeufs  de  Pluviers.) 

Plovers'  eggs  are  served  boiled  hard.  They  are  frequently  used  to 
garnish  salads.  The  eggs  are  usually  boiled  from  15  to  20  minutes  ; 
and  the  albumen  after  boiling  obtains  a  beautiful  translucent  bluish 
colour. 

3067.— PLOVERS'  EGGS  IN  ASPIC.     (Fr.— Oeufs  de 
Pluviers  en  Aspic.) 

Ingredients. — Hard  boiled  plovers'  eggs,  aspic  jelly,  salad,  chili  and 
truffle  for  decoration. 

Method. — Set  a  little  aspic  jelly  in  the  bottom  of  the  dariols  chosen, 
and  decorate  them  tastefully  with  chili  and  fancifully  cut  truffle. 
Place  i  egg  in  each  mould,  fill  up  with  aspic  jelly,  and  put  on  ice  or  in 
a  cold  place  until  set.  Unmould  and  serve  garnished  with  salad. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost  of  eggs,  6d.  each.  Sufficient,  allow 
i  for  each  person.  Seasonable  August  to  October. 

3068.— PLOVER'S  EGGS  ON  CROUTES.    (Fr.— Oeufs 
de  Pluviers  sur  Croutes.) 

Ingredients. — Hard  boiled  plovers'  eggs,  brown  bread,  butter,  salad, 
aspic  jelly. 

Method. — Cut  some  moderately  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  and 
stamp  out  some  small  rounds.  Work  about  2  oz.  of  butter  until 


I3i6  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

C'eamy,  and  put  it  into  a  paper  cone.  Place  i  egg  on  each  round  of 
breid  and  butter,  and  keep  it  in  place  by  forcing  some  of  the  butter 
round  the  egg.  Garnish  with  chopped  aspic  and  salad.  Variety  may 
be  introduced  by  using  Montpelier  or  anchovy  butter. 

Time. — |-hour.  Average  Cost  of  eggs,  6d.  each.  Sufficient,  allow  i  for 
each  person. 

3069.— SCOTCH  EGGS.      (Fr.— Oeufs  Ecossaise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  hard-boiled  eggs,  ^  a  Ib.  of  sausage  meat,  i  egg,  bread- 
crumbs, frying-fat,  6  creates  of  fried  bread. 

Method. — Let  the  eggs  become  quite  cold,  remove  the  shells,  and 
cover  each  one  completely  with  sausage  meat.  Coat  them  carefully 
with  beaten  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely 
browned.  Cut  each  egg  in  half,  dish  them  out  side  upwards  on  the 
croutes  of  fried  bread,  besprinkled  with  chopped  parsley,  and  serve 
either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — f-hour.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  6  persons. 

3070.— SCRAMBLED     EGGS     WITH      GREEN    PEA 
PUREE.     (Fr.— Oeufs  a  la  St.  Germaine.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  $  of  a  pint  of  green  pea  puree,  i£  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  tablespoonful  of  either  white  or  brown  sauce,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
milk,  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley. 

Method. — Obtain  the  puree  by  passing  cooked  green  peas  through  a 
fine  sieve,  place  it  in  a  stewpan,  add  \  an  oz.  of  butter,  the  sauce  and 
seasoning  to  taste,  and  make  thoroughly  hot.  Melt  the  remainder 
of  the  butter  in  another  stewpan,  add  the  eggs,  previously  beaten, 
seasoned  to  taste,  and  mixed  with  the  milk,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until 
the  mixture  is  sufficiently  cooked.  Place  the  green  pea  puree  in  six 
well-buttered  ramakin  cases,  fill  them  with  the  egg  mixture,  sprinkle 
with  parsley  and  serve. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  5d.  Sufficient  for  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


VEGETARIAN     COOKERY 

CHAPTER    XLIII 

General  Observations  on  Vegetarianism  and  Recipes  for 
Vegetarian  Soups,  Savouries,  Sauces,  Farinaceous 
Foods,  and  Puddings  and  Pastry. 

Vegetarianism. — As  this  book  is  designed  to  give  useful  information 
to  all  housekeepers,  the  present  chapter  has  been  added  for  the  benefit 
of  those  who  do  not  eat  animal  food,  or  prefer  an  alternative  diet. 

From  the  earliest  ages  the  doctrines  and  practices  of  vegetarianism 
have  been  observed,  from  necessity,  as  a  religious  duty,  or  on  the 
grounds  of  health.  So  long  ago  as  the  time  of  Pythagoras,  vege- 
tarianism was  practised,  while  the  Hindus  from  remote  antiquity 
have  subsisted  on  vegetable  food.  In  England  the  question  has  come 
to  the  front  on  the  ground  of  dietetic  reform,  and  a  number  of  persons 
known  as  "  Vegetarians  "  abstain  from  animal  food  altogether,  or  take 
it  only  in  such  forms  as  milk,  cheese,  butter  and  eggs.  The  stricter 
adherents,  however,  abstain  from  the  use  of  some  or  all  of  these  pro- 
ducts. Other  people,  while  not  classing  themselves  as  vegetarians, 
consider  that  a  less  quantity  of  animal  food  than  is  generally  eaten 
is  sufficient  to  keep  the  body  in  health,  and  avail  themselves  of  the 
various  dishes  tastefully  served  at  the  numerous  vegetarian  restaurants 
which  are  now  common  in  London  and  other  large  towns. 

It  is  not  within  the  scope  of  this  work  to  discuss  critically  pro 
and  con  the  subject  of  vegetarianism.  It  may,  however,  be  stated 
that  the  following  constitute  the  principal  physiological  reasons  for  the 
use  by  man  of  a  mixed  diet.  Every  animal  by  natural  selection  and 
the  nature  of  its  environment  is  structurally  adapted  for  the  special 
kind  of  food  which  serves  for  its  nourishment,  such  adaptation  being 
determined  by  the  nature  of  its  teeth,  the  length  and  complexity  of 
the  digestive  canal,  the  character  of  the  climate  of  its  habitat,  and  the 
particular  constitution  of  the  animal.  Man,  by  the  structure  of  his 
teeth  and  digestive  organs,  the  latter  standing  midway  in  length  and 
complexity  between  the  plant-eating  animals  and  the  carnivorn.,  is 
specially  adapted  for  a  mixed  diet.  Race  and  climate  are,  ho\^ 
important  factors  in  determining  the  greater  or  less  use  of  flesh  as 
food.  In  cold  regions  fats  or  hydrocarbons  are  necessary,  not  only 

1317 


I3i8  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

to  renew  the  fatty  tissues  of  the  body,  but  to  yield  heat  and  energy, 
hence  the  Eskimo  subsists  largely  on  fat  and  blubber  ;  in  a  more 
temperate  climate  both  meat  and  vegetable  food  are  advantageously 
used,  while  in  hot  regions  a  plant  dietary  is  found  to  be  the  best  adapted 
for  man.  Climate,  therefore,  and  the  particular  requirements  of  in- 
dividual constitutions,  must  determine  the  adoption  of  a  vegetarian, 
or  a  mixed  vegetarian,  or  a  meat  diet. 

Constituents  of  Food. — It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that,  whether  one 
lives  on  animal  or  vegetable  food,  the  same  constituents  must  be  pre- 
sent. Water,  starch,  or  sugar,  salts,  and  flesh-formers  are  not  less 
demanded  by  one  class  of  the  community  than  the  rest.  As  for  water, 
it  is  free  to  all;  but  it  is  worthy  of  notice  that  in  most  vegetarian  cook- 
ery-books there  is  a  large  preponderance  of  soups,  and  stews,  and 
porridges,  all  moist  foods,  containing  much  water,  and  therefore  not 
calling  for  much  water  to  accompany  them.  Vegetable  food  is  not 
provocative  of  thirst  to  the  same  extent  that  animal  food  is.  In  most 
of  the  recipes,  condiments  and  seasonings  are  sparingly  used;  in  some 
they  are  not  used  at  all.  We  have,  however,  in  the  recipes  that 
follow,  added  a  usual  amount  of  seasoning. 

Starch  or  Sugar. — These  are  a  vegetable  food,  and  used  by  all.  The 
people  who  do  without  starch  are  those  who  live  in  the  region  of 
ice  and  snow,  where  plants  cannot  grow,  and  wrhere  a  rigid  vege- 
tarian would  soon  have  to  give  up  the  struggle  for  life.  The  prepared 
starches,  such  as  cornflour,  arrowroot,  sago  and  tapioca  are  very 
cheap,  and  starch,  in  combination  with  other  substances — in 
potatoes,  flour,  rice,  oatmeal — is  commoner  still. 

Fat  is  rather  difficult  of  digestion  with  some,  who  get  over  it  by  hav- 
ing recourse  to  butter,  which  is  more  easily  digested  than  the  fat  of 
meat.  But  there  is  a  small  quantity  of  fat  in  cereals,  and  in  man}' 
foods  where  it  is  not  suspected.  Vegetable  oils  are  both  palatable 
and  cheap.  There  is  olive-oil,  used  for  salads  very  sparingly  in  this 
country,  very  plentifully  on  the  Continent;  walnut-oil,  also  common 
in  France,  Italy  and  Switzerland  ;  cotton-seed  oil,  pressed  from  the 
seed  of  the  cotton  plant,  and  exported  to  England  in  large  quantities, 
partly  to  adulterate  the  dearer  kinds  of  oils,  partly  for  more  legitimate 
use  in  preserving  fish  and  in  frying. 

Albuminoids,  commonly  described  as  flesh- formers,  are  also  found 
to  some  extent  in  nearly  all  vegetables.  Gluten  in  flour,  fibrin  in  all 
cereals,  nitrogen  in  some  form  in  every  plant  that  grows — these  all 
supply  flesh-formers  in  different  quantities.  Vegetarians  never  re- 
commend, and  seldom  practice,  the  habit  of  eating  very  white  bread, 
and  so  get  more  flesh-formers  by  that  channel  than  all  the  rest  of  the 
world.  But  the  great  stand-by  is  in  the  pulses — beans,  peas  and 
lentils — which  are  richer  in  albuminoids  than  any  food  that  is  known. 
Macaroni  and  semolina,  though  made  only  of  wheat  and  water,  are 
richer  in  flesh-formers  than  the  white  wheat-flour  commonly  used. 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1319 

Many  recipes  given  here,  and  also  in  approved  vegetarian  cookery- 
books,  use  milk  and  eggs  in  abundance.  These  animal  foods  are  not 
open  to  the  same  objections  that  are  made  to  meat.  At  any  rate,  they 
are  highly-concentrated  foods,  containing  much  nourishment  in  a 
small  space,  and  are  particularly  rich  in  albuminoids. 

\Vc  have  already  had  occasion  to  remark  that  it  is  chiefly  from  vege- 
tables and  fresh  fruits  that  we  all  must  draw  our  supplies  of  salts, 
whether  we  eat  meat  in  addition  or  no. 


Soups 


307I._VEGETABLE  STOCK.    (Fr.— Bouillon  Maigre.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  water,  2  ozs.  of  haricot  beans,  2  ozs.  of  split 
peas,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  stick  of  celery,  parsley,  herbs,  pepper  and 
salt,  3,  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace. 

Method. — Boil  all  the  above  vegetables,  spice  and  herbs  in  2  quarts 
of  water  for  3  or  4  hours.  Skim  well.  Strain  it  of!.  It  will  keep  for 
some  time  if  it  is  left  to  stand  and  poured  from  the  sediment. 

Time. — From  3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  3d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

—This  may  serve  as  the  basis  of  a  good  many  soups  and  sauces, 
just  as  stock  made"  of  meat  and  bones  serves  many  purposes.  All  cooks  may 
be  assured  that  if  gravy  has  to  be  made  and  no  meat  is  at  hand  of  which 
to  make  it,  water  in  which  any  vegetables  have  been  boiled  (except  potatoes) 
will  be  better  than  plain  water. 

3072.— BROWN  VEGETABLE  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  water,  i  slice  of  bread,  i  cabbage,  2  carrots, 
i  turnip,  2  onions,  2  potatoes,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  i  tablespoonful 
of  oil  or  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Fry  a  slice  of  onion  in  the  oil  or  butter  in  a  large  saucepan. 
When  it  is  brown,  but  not  burnt,  add  2  quarts  of  water,  salt,  pepper, 
a  slice  of  stale  bread  toasted,  and  vegetables  cut  up  into  small 
pieces.  (One  small  cabbage,  2  carrots,  i  turnip,  2  onions,  2  or  3  potatoes, 

tand  a  bunch  of  parsley,  make  a  good  soup.)  French  beans,  green  peas 
with  their  pods,  celery,  parsnips,  or  any  other  vegetable  may  be  added. 
Boil  for  3  or  4  hours,  then  mash  the  vegetables  through  a  colander, 
or  in  a  saucepan  with  a  spoon,  boil  for  another  10  minutes,  and  the 
simp  is  ready.  If  it  is  too  thick,  add  more  water,  and  boil  for  10  minutes 
after  putting  in  the  water  ;  if  too  thin,  boil  fast  with  the  lid  off  the 
saucepan  until  it  is  thick  enough. 

Time. — From  3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  4d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons. 


1320  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3073.— CHEESE  SOUP.     (Fr.— Creme  au  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs, 
i  pint  of  milk,  i  pint  of  water,  i  small  onion  finely  chopped,  i  French 
roll,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  roll  across  into  slices,  and  dry  them  well  in  the 
oven.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  without  browning, 
then  add  milk  and  water,  and  when  nearly  boiling  put  in  the  eggs 
slightly  beaten,  the  grated  cheese,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  stir 
the  ingredients  until  the  soup  thickens,  but  it  must  not  boil,  otherwise 
the  eggs  may  curdle.  Place  the  slices  of  bread  in  a  tureen,  pour  the 
soup  over,  and  serve.  This  soup  is  prepared  in  a  few  minutes. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  pd. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

3074.— COUNT  RUMFORD'S  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  Scotch  barley,  3  ozs.  of  split  peas,  12  oz. 
of  potatoes,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  2  quarts  of  water,  £  of  a  Ib. 
of  bread  or  breadcrusts,  salt,  sweet  herbs. 

Method. — First  boil  the  barley,  peas  and  water  for  2  hours  very 
slowly;  then  add  the  potatoes,  vinegar  and  salt,  and  simmer  for  another 
hour.  Put  in  the  bread  just  before  serving. 

Time. — 3  hours.  Average  Cost,  3-|d.  to  4d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons. 

Note. — If  the  soup  is  cooked  too  rapidly,  it  will  be  necessary  to  add  more 
water  to  supply  the  deficiency  caused  by  evaporation. 

3075.— GRAVY  SOUP,  RICH. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  vegetable  stock  No.  3071,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  sherry,  i  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  i  teaspoonful  of 
walnut  ketchup,  i  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot,  browning,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  stock  as  directed,  and  if  at  all  cloudy  clear  it 
with  the  whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs.  Mix  the  ketchup  and  arrowroot 
smoothly  together,  stir  it  into  the  stock,  season  to  taste,  add  a  few- 
drops  of  browning  and  the  sherry.  Simmer  and  stir  for  3  or  4  minutes, 
then  serve  garnished  with  shredded  vegetables,  cooked  macaroni, 
vermicelli,  pates  dTtalie,  perles  de  Nizam,  or  small  egg  balls  (see  Clear 
Soup). 

Time. — 10  minutes,  after  the  stock  is  made.  Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d., 
in  addition  to  the  garnish.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

3076.— GREEN  PEA  SOUP.  (Fr.—  Puree  de  Pois  verts.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  peas,  with  their  shells,  i  small  lettuce,  i  sprig 
of  parsley,  i  sprig  of  mint,  i  small  leek,  2  quarts  of  water,  %  a  Pmt  °* 
milk,  or  milk  and  cream,  salt  and  pepper,  soda,  sugar. 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1321 

Method.  —  Shell  the  peas,  and  put  them  into  the  boiling  water  with 
their  shells,  a  small  piece  of  soda  and  the  other  vegetables.  In  about 
20  minutes  take  out  a  few  of  the  peas  for  garnish,  and  when  the  rest  of 
the  vegetables  are  tender  rub  them  through  a  sieve.  The  larger  part 
of  the  shells  can  be  rubbed  through,  and  they  make  quite  as  good 
soup  as  the  peas  themselves.  Boil  the  soup  again,  adding  sugar  and 
seasoning  and  the  milk.  If  cream  be  added  it  must  not  be  boiled. 
Garnish  with  the  whole  peas,  and  serve  immediately. 

Time.  —  About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9cl.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons. 

3077.—  HOTCHPOTCH. 

Ingredients.  —  3  ozs.  of  pearl-barley,  i  small  cabbage,  2  carrots,  i 
turnip,  2  onions,  parsley  and  herbs,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper, 
3  quarts  of  water. 

Method.  —  Put  the  barley  on  the  fire  with  the  cold  water.  Scrape 
or  grate  one  of  the  carrots,  and  put  it  aside  in  a  little  water.  Chop 
all  the  rest  of  the  vegetables  very  small,  and  when  the  water  boils  put 
them  in  with  the  butter,  salt  and  pepper.  There  should  be  enough 
vegetable  to  make  it  rather  thick.  Boil  it  all  for  2  hours,  then  add  the 
scraped  carrots,  and  boil  for  another  30  minutes. 

Time.  —  About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 


.—  Many  other  vegetables  may  be  added.     Lettuce,  green  peas  and 
celery  when  in'season. 

3078.—  JULIENNE  SOUP. 

Ingredients.  —  i  quart  of  clarified  vegetable  stock,  turnip,  carrot, 
celery,  onion,  salt  and  pepper,  mushroom  ketchup,  walnut  ketchup, 
sherry,  if  liked. 

Method.  —  Cut  the  vegetables  into  fine  strips  about  the  size  and  shape 
of  a  small  match,  and  boil  them  separately  until  tender,  but  not  broken. 
Have  the  stock  ready  boiling,  add  salt,  pepper,  very  little  ketchup, 
and  sherry  to  taste,  put  in  the  prepared  vegetables,  cook  for  15 
minutes  and  serve. 

Time.  —  From  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons. 

3079.—  LENTIL  SOUP  (GREEN). 

Ingredients.  —  £  a  pint  of  green  lentils,  a  handful  of  spinach  or  a  few 
drops  of  spinach  colouring,  i  onion,  i  carrot,  £  a  small  turnip,  all  sliced, 
i  or  2  strips  of  celery,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
i  quart  of  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream  or  £  a  pint  of  milk,  salt  and 
pepper. 


1322  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Soak  the  lentils  overnight.  Wash  and  drain  them  well, 
put  them  into  the  water  when  boiling,  add  the  vegetables  and  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Simmer  for  3^  hours,  or  until  soft,  pass  the  whole 
through  a  fine  sieve,  and  replace  in  the  stewpan.  Boil  up,  add  the 
cream  or  milk,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  stir  and  boil  gently 
for  10  minutes,  then  serve  with  fried  or  toasted  croutons  of  bread. 

Time. — About  4^  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  with  milk,  8d.  with 
cream.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 

3080. — POTATO  SOUP.     (Fr. — Puree  de   Pommes   de 
terre.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  potatoes,  i  leek,  i  stick  of  celery,  £  of  a  pint  of 
cream,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  quart  of  water,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper, 
2  ozs.  of  sago  or  tapioca. 

Method. — Cut  up  the  prepared  vegetables,  using  only  the  white  part 
of  the  leek,  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  the  butter.  Let  them 
cook  for  about  10  minutes,  but  not  take  colour  ;  then  add  the  milk  and 
water,  and  boil  for  about  £  of  an  hour,  or  until  the  mixture  is  soft  enough 
to  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Boil  it  again,  adding  more  milk  if 
necessary,  sprinkle  in  the  sago,  and  let  it  simmer  until  it  is  transparent. 
Lastly  add  the  cream,  which  must  not  boil.  Serve  with  fried  bread 
croutons. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

Note. — The  colour  of  the  soup  is  sometimes  spoiled  by  using  an  iron 
saucepan. 

3081.— RICE  WATER. 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon  or 
orange  juice,  salt  to  taste,  i  quart  of  water. 

Method. — Pick  and  wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  jar  with  the  water  and 
salt,  cover  closely,  and  cook  in  a  slow  oven  from  3  to  3^  hours.  Strain, 
flavour  with  lemon  or  orange  juice,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — From  3  to  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  i£d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3 
persons. 

3082.— VEGETABLE  SOUP.  (Fr.— Potage  de  Legumes.) 

Ingredients. — i  small  vegetable  marrow,  3  or  4  tomatoes,  i  small  onion, 
4  ozs.  of  rice,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  3  pints  of  water,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  marrow  and  tomatoes  into  small  pieces,  and  slice 
the  onion  finely.  Melt  the  butter,  fry  the  onion  without  browning, 
then  add  the  water  and  rice,  previously  washed  and  drained,  boil  for 
10  minutes,  add  the  vegetable  marrow  and  tomatoes,  season  to  taste, 
cook  gently  until  the  vegetables  are  tender.  Pass  the  soup  through 
a  sieve,  reheat,  then  serve. 

Time. — £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  /d.  to  8d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1323 
3083.— WHITE  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  Blanc.) 

Ingredients. — 2  small  onions,  i  turnip,  i  Ib. of  potatoes,  i  branch  of  celery, 
2  small  parsnips  or  artichokes,  3  pints  of  water,  £  a  pint  of  milk, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  flour  or  cornflour,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  about  2  Ibs.  weight  of  any  white  vegetables,  previously 
washed  and  peeled,  into  pieces,  or  preferably  several  kinds  mixed, 
and  boil  them  until  soft  in  the  water  with  salt  and  butter.  Rub 
them  through  a  sieve  or  colander,  put  them  back  in  the  stewpan  with 
the  milk,  and  let  it  boil.  Put  in  the  flour,  mixed  smoothly  with  a 
little  cold  water  or  milk,  let  the  soup  boil  for  10  minutes,  and  serve 
with  dice  of  fried  bread. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  $d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

Savoury  Vegetable  Dishes 

3084.— ASPARAGUS  SOUFFLE. 

Ingredients. — 50  green  asparagus  heads,  cooked  and  well  drained,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  i\-  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  2  yolks 
of  eggs,  3  whites  of  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  add  the 
milk.  Beat  and  cook  the  mixture  over  the  fire  until  it  leaves  the 
sides  of  the  pan,  then  add  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Beat  well,  add  the  cheese,  stir  in  the  stiffly- whisked  whites  of  eggs,  and 
lastly  the  asparagus  heads,  or  the  puree  thereof.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered 
souffle  dish,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  20  minutes. 

Time. — To  bake  the  souffle,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  2d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

3085.— ARTICHOKE  SALAD. 

Ingredients.  —  Globe  artichokes,  a  small  quantity  of  finely-chopped 
onion  and  parsley,  oil  and  vinegar. 

Method. — Boil  the  artichokes  until  tender,  and  when  cold  cut  them 
into  halves  or  quarters.  Dish  them  neatly,  and  hand  the  onion, 
parsley,  oil  and  vinegar  separately,  or,  if  preferred,  serve  with  Hollan- 
daise  or  Vinaigrette  sauce  (Nos.  304  and  218). 

Time. — To  boil  the  artichokes,  from  20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
4d.  to  6d.  each.  Allow  half  to  each  person. 

3086.— BANANAS,  FRIED.     (Fr.— Bananes  Frites.) 

Ingredients. — Bananas  peeled,  flour,  oil  or  butter  to  fry. 

Method. — Cut  the  bananas  in  pieces,  and  flour  each,  fry  in  butter 
a  light-brown  in  a  frying-pan,  drain  well  and  serve  with  poached  eggs, 
the  same  as  bacon  and  eggs  would  be  served. 


I324  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3087.— BEANS,  CURRIED.     (Fr—  Haricots  Blancs  en 
Kari.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  haricot  beans,  \  a  carrot,  i  apple,  i  onion, 
a  tablespoonful  of  oil  or  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour  and  curry 
powder  mixed,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  rice. 

Method. — Cook  the  beans  in  a  slow  oven  with  water  until  they  are 
soft,  and  grate  or  chop  the  vegetables  very  fine.  Heat  up  the  oil,  add 
the  vegetables,  fry  for  5  minutes,  put  in  the  flour  and  curry,  and  lastly 
the  water  or  an  equal  quantity  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  beans  were 
boiled.  Boil  and  thicken  the  stew,  add  the  beans,  make  thoroughly 
hot,  and  serve  with  a  border  of  boiled  rice.  Or,  press  the  rice  into 
a  mould  or  into  teacups,  turn  them  into  the  middle  of  the  dish,  and 
pour  the  beans  round. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  4d.  or  5d.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

Note. — Peas  and  lentils  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  way,  or  indeed  any 
kind  of  vegetable. 

3088.— BEAN    CROQUETTES.      (Fr.— Croquettes    de 
Haricots  blancs.) 

Ingredients. — Boiled  beans,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  onion,  egg, 
oil  to  fry. 

Method. — Take  some  boiled  haricot  beans — any  that  are  left  over  from 
a  dish  of  the  day  before  will  do — mash  them,  add  sufficient  breadcrumbs 
to  make  them  stiff  enough  to  mould,  a  little  fried  chopped  onion, 
pepper  and  salt.  Shape  them  into  balls  or  flat  cakes,  egg-and-bread- 
crumb  them,  and  fry  in  hot  oil.  Serve  with  some  sauce,  or  brown  gravy 
poured  round,  and  garnish  with  fried  parsley.  If  peas  are  preferred, 
the  ordinary  split  peas  can  be  used ;  and  if  lentils,  either  the  Egyptian 
or  the  German  :  the  latter,  though  dearer,  are  better.  Parsley  and 
herbs,  or  lemon-rind,  can  be  added  if  liked.  The  croquettes  are  best 
eaten  hot. 

Time. — Altogether,  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.,  exclusive  of  the 
beans.  Allow  2  to  each  person. 

3089.— BEANS,  POTTED. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  haricot  beans,  2  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs. 
of  strong  cheese  grated ;  2  ozs.  of  butter,  cayenne,  pepper  and  salt, 
nutmeg  to  taste. 

Method. — Bake  the  beans  in  a  slow  oven,  pound  them  in  a  mortar, 
adding  gradually  the  other  ingredients.  Press  the  mixture  into  pots, 
and  run  a  little  butter  over  the  top,  if  it  is  to  keep  many  days.  Potted 
beans  make  very  good  sandwiches  with  bread  and  butter.  Store  in  a 
cool,  dry  place,  as  all  kinds  of  beans  quickly  ferment. 

Time. — i \  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  pots. 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1325 
3090.— BEANS  AND  TOMATOES. 

Ingredients. — Baked  or  boiled  haricot  beans,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  an  oz. 
of  butter,  \  a  pint  of  water  in  which  the  beans  were  cooked,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce. 

Method. — Strain  the  beans,  thicken  the  liquor  with  flour  or  flour  and 
butter,  add  the  tomato  sauce,  and  let  it  boil.  Put  in  the  beans,  and 
serve  hot. 

Time. — \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.     Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3091.— BREAD  CUTLETS.    (Fr—  Cotelettes  au  pain.) 

Ingredients. — Slices  of  bread;  milk,  nutmeg,  pepper,  chopped  parsley, 
herbs  and  lemon-rind,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  oil  for  frying. 

Method. — Cut  slices  of  bread  of  a  suitable  shape  and  about  £  of  an 
inch  thick.  Soak  them  in  a  little  milk  on  a  plate,  but  not  sufficiently 
long  to  cause  them  to  break.  Mix  the  parsley,  herbs,  lemon-rind, 
spice  and  breadcrumbs.  Break  the  egg  on  a  plate,  dip  each  slice  into 
it,  and  then  in  the  crumbs,  and  fry  at  once  in  a  frying-pan.  Drain  on 
paper,  and  serve  hot. 

3092.— CARROT  PUDDING.     (Fr.— Ponding  Crecy.) 

Ingredients. — Boiled  carrots,  £  their  bulk  in  breadcrumbs,  i  or  2 
eggs,  pepper  and  salt,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  white  sauce. 

Method. — Boil  some  carrots  until  soft,  chop  them  small  or  rub  them 
through  a  sieve,  add  the  breadcrumbs  and  butter,  and  eggs  sufficient 
to  bind  the  whole  together,  with  seasoning  to  taste.  If  eggs  are  not 
used,  a  couple  of  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  a  little  milk  should  be  put 
in.  Butter  the  pudding-basin,  put  in  the  mixture,  steam  from  i  hour 
to  i£  hours,  according  to  size,  turn  out  the  pudding,  and  serve  it  hot 
with  white  sauce  poured  round  the  pudding. 

Time. — To  steam  the  pudding,  from  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  7d., 
exclusive  of  the  sauce.  Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

Xotc. — This  pudding  can  be  made  with  other  vegetables.  Chopped  turnips 
or  cauliflowers  mixed  with  the  carrot  are  excellent. 

3093.— CROQUETTES  OF  HOMINY. 

Ingredients. — i  breakfastcupful  of  hominy,  i£  pints  of  milk,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  2  eggs,  salt,  cayenne  to  taste,  breadcrumbs,  oil  for  frying. 

Method. — Soak  the  hominy  in  water  all  night,  and  next  morning 
boil  it  in  the  milk  till  tender.  Let  it  cool,  add  the  butter,  i  egg,  and 
seasoning.  When  quite  cold,  shape  it  in  balls,  egg-and-breadcrumb 
each,  fry  in  a  saucepan  of  oil,  and  serve  with  tomato  or  onion  sauce. 

Time. — To  fry  the  croquettes,  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  ipd. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 


1326  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3094.— EGG  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Hard-boiled  eggs,  thin  slices  of  either  white  or  brown 
bread  and  butter,  cress  or  parsley. 

Method. — Cut  the  eggs  into  thin  slices,  place  them  between  slices  of 
bread  and  butter,  trim  off  the  crusts,  and  cut  into  triangles.  Garnish 
with  tufts  of  cress  or  parsley. 

Time. — To  boil  the  eggs,  from  10  to  12  minutes.  Average  Cast,  id. 
each.  Allow  6  eggs  for  4  or  5  persons. 

3095.— EGGS  AND  TOMATOES  (COLD). 

Ingredients. — Fresh  eggs,  firm  tomatoes,  croutes  of  fried  or  toasted 
bread,  salt  and  pepper,  salad. 

Method. — Cut  a  slice  off  the  end  of  each  tomato,  scoop  out  some  of 
the  pulp,  and  season  the  inside  of  the  tomatoes  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Into  each  one  carefully  break  an  egg,  put  on  the  lids,  and  bake  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven  until  the  eggs  are  set.  When  cold,  serve  garnished 
with  salad. 

Time. — From  10  to  15  minutes,  to  bake  the  tomatoes.  Average  Cost, 
3^d.  to  4d.  each.  Sufficient,  allow  i  to  each  person. 

3096.— FORCEMEAT  FRITTERS. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  soft  breadcrumbs,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  £  of  a 
pint  of  cream,  i  tablespoonf ul  of  chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonf  ul  of  finely- 
chopped  leek  or  onion,  i  teaspoonf  ul  of  finely-chopped  or  powdered 
mixed  herbs,  2  hard-boiled  eggs  sliced  and  fried  in  oil  or  butter,  salt, 
pepper. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  breadcrumbs,  add  the  parsley, 
leeks,  herbs,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  in  the  eggs  and 
cream,  shape  into  balls,  and  fry  in  hot  butter  or  oil  in  a  frying  pan. 
Serve  garnished  with  the  fried  slices  of  egg,  and  add  brown  sauce  and 
red-currant  jelly. 

Time. — About  |-  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

3097.— GLOBE  ARTICHOKES.     (See  Artichoke  Salad, 
No.  3085.     Also  Recipes  Nos.  1435-1443.) 

3098.— LAYER,  TO  DRESS. 

Ingredients. — i  or  2  pats  of  laver-weed,  i  oz.  of  butter,  lemon  juice, 
salt,  pepper,  buttered  toast. 

Method. — The  laver-wecd,  a  variety  of  seaweed  found  principally  on 
the  South  Wales  coast,  is  collected  at  low  tide,  well  washed  in  sea- 
water,  and  afterwards  boiled  in  slightly  salted  water.  In  winter  it 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1327 

will  be  sufficiently  cooked  at  the  end  of  2  or  3  hours,  but  in  summer 
a  much  longer  time  is  needed.  In  this  condition  it  is  offered  for  sale 
in  pats.  To  prepare  it  for  table,  heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in 
the  laver,  stir  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  add  lemon  juice,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  serve  on  buttered  toast.  It  is  also  added  to  sauce 
served  with  game,  venison  or  mutton. 

Time. — To  reheat,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost. — 3d.  or  4d.  for 
this  quantity.  Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

LAVER  (Fr.  Veronique  hfcalunza). — The  name  given  to  various  kinds  of  seaweeds,  especially  to  two 
species  of  the  red  seaweeds  or  alg?e,  Porphyra  vulgar  is  and  Porpkyra  laciniata.  These  plants,  which 
grow  in  the  sea  upon  rocks  and  stones,  are  characterized  by  their  thin,  flat,  purple  fronds.  Laver 
is  used  as  a  food,  salted  and  eaten  with  pepper,  oil,  vinegar,  and  also  with  lemon-juice  ;  it  is  some- 
times stewed,  and  served  in  this  form.  Owing  to  the  presence  of  iodine,  laver  is  regarded  as  beneficial 
in  scrofulous  diseases  and  glandular  tumours.  Green  layer  (Ulva  latissima)  is  similar  in  its  medicinal 
properties  to  the  red  laver  ;  it  is  prepared  for  eating  in  the  same  way,  but  is  bitterish  to  the  taste. 

3099.— LENTILS,  CURRIED. 

Ingredients. — J  of  a  pint  of  lentils,  curry  sauce  made  with  vegetable 
stock  {see  No.  3071). 

Method. — Soak  the  lentils  in  water  for  12  hours,  then  drain  them, 
cover  them  with  boiling  water,  and  boil  gently  until  tender.  Make 
the  sauce  as  directed,  drain  and  add  the  lentils,  make  thoroughly  hot, 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

3100.— LENTIL  RISSOLES.  (Fr.— Rissoles  deLentilles.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  lentils,  boiled  or  baked,  £  an  oz.  of  butter, 
pepper  and  salt,  nutmeg,  short  crust  or  rough  puff  paste. 

Method. — Cook  the  lentils  until  they  are  soft  enough  to  mash,  add 
the  butter  and  seasoning.  They  ought  not  to  be  very  dry.  Roll  the 
paste  very  thin,  and  cut  it  into  rounds  with  a  paste  cutter  or  a 
teacup.  Into  each  round  put  a  little  of  the  lentil  mixture,  fold  it  up, 
wet  the  edge,  and  stick  it  together.  Egg-and-breadcrumb  the  rissoles, 
and  fry  them  in  oil.  Serve  hot  with  fried  parsley.  Whole  lentils 
are  the  best  to  use  for  this  purpose. 

Time. — To  fry  the  rissoles,  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  persons. 

3101.— MACARONI  AND  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  2  ozs.  of  Gmyere  cheese  grated, 
2  ozs.  of  Parmesan  cheese  grated,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  £of  a  pint  of  cream, 
salt  and  pepper,  triangles  of  fried  or  toasted  bread. 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  short  lengths,  throw  them  into 
boiling  salted  water,  and  boil  rapidly  for  20  minutes,  or  until  tender. 
Heat  the  butter,  drain  and  add  the  macaroni,  stir  in  the  cheese  and 


1328  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

cream,  and  season  to  taste.     Make  quite  hot,   and  serve  garnished 
with  sippets  of  bread. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  $d.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  persons. 

3102.— MACARONI  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  macaroni,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  bread,  i  teaspoonful 
of  parsley,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  lemon-peel,  spice,  pepper 
and  salt,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  egg. 

Method. — Parboil  the  macaroni,  and  with  it  line  a  pint  basin  previously 
buttered.  Soak  the  bread  in  cold  water,  squeeze  it  dry,  and  add  the 
rest  of  the  ingredients  with  any  macaroni  that  may  be  over,  cut  into 
pieces.  Fill  the  basin  and  press  it  down.  Cover  it  with  buttered 
paper,  and  steam  for  i£  hours.  Serve  hot  with  white  or  brown  sauce. 

Time. — To  steam  the  pudding,  £  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d. 
Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3103.— MACARONI  AND  TOMATOES. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  Naples  macaroni,  salt  and  water,  \  an  oz.  of 
flour,  %  an  oz.  of  butter,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  i  onion 
stuck  with  2  cloves. 

Method. — Drop  the  macaroni  into  quickly  boiling  water,  with  salt 
and  the  onion,  and  boil  for  \  an  hour,  or  until  tender,  then  drain  the 
water  off.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  flour  and  the  water 
(of  which  there  should  be  about  \  a  pint),  let  it  boil,  add  the  tomato 
sauce  and  the  macaroni.  When  it  is  hot  through  it  is  ready  to  serve. 
The  onion  should  be  removed. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  $d.  to  6d.  Sufficient  for  2 
or  3  persons. 

3104.— MACARONI  AND  ONION  FRITTERS. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  onions,  2  ozs.  of  macaroni,  6  ozs.  of  bread- 
crumbs, 3  eggs,  and  seasoning. 

Method. — Stew  the  macaroni  in  water,  and  when  tender,  drain  and 
cut  into  small  pieces,  add  the  onions,  boiled  and  chopped,  the  bread- 
crumbs moistened  with  a  little  water,  and  the  eggs  well  beaten;  season 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  shape  them  ;  next  fry  the  shapes,  and  serve 
with  brown  sauce. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  7d. 
Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3105.— MOCK  FISH  PATTIES. 

Ingredients. — Salsify,  Bechamel  sauce,  puff  paste  cases  (see  Oyster 
Patties,  No.  565),  butter,  lemon-juice,  salt. 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1329 

Method.  —  Scrape  and  wash  the  salsify,  cut  them  into  small  even- 
sized  pieces,  throw  them  into  boiling  water,  and  add  a  little  butter, 
lemon-juice,  and  salt.  Boil  gently  until  tender,  and  then  drain  well. 
Heat  up  in  a  little  well-seasoned  good  white  sauce.  Have  the  pastry- 
cases  ready,  fill  them  with  the  preparation,  re-heat,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  salsify,  from  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
from  i£d.  to  2d.  each.  Allow  i  to  each  person. 

3106.— MOCK  WHITE  FISH. 

Ingredients. — Salsify,  milk,  butter,  flour,  lemon-juice,  butter,  bread- 
crumbs, salt  and  pepper. 

Meihod. — Scrape  the  salsify,  cut  the  roots  into  i-inch  lengths,  cover 
them  with  lemon- juice,  or  white  vinegar,  and  water,  and  let  them 
remain  for  i  hour.  Drain  well,  barely  cover  with  boiling  salted  water, 
cook  gently  until  tender,  then  strain  and  preserve  the  liquor.  Take 
equal  parts  of  liquor  and  milk  ;  to  i  pint  allow  2  ozs.  of  butter  and 
i£  ozs.  of  flour.  Heat  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  stir  and  cook  for  a 
few  minutes  without  browning,  and  put  in  the  mixed  liquor  and  milk. 
Stir  until  boiling,  season  to  taste,  and  add  a  little  lemon- juice.  Place 
the  salsify  in  coquilles,  cover  with  sauce,  sprinkle  thickly  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  add  2  or  3  small  pieces  of  butter.  Bake  until  the  surface 
is  nicely  browned,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  salsify,  from  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
2d.  to  3d.  each.  Allow  i  to  each  person. 

3107.— MUSHROOM  PATTIES  (COLD). 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  mushrooms,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  cream,  or  a  little 
milk  thickened  with  cornflour,  paste  No.  1666,  or  1668. 

Method. — Wash,  peel  the  mushrooms,  and  cut  them  into  dice.  Heat 
the  butter,  fry  in  it  the  prepared  mushrooms  for  10  minutes,  then  stir  in 
sufficient  cream  or  thickened  milk  to  thoroughly  moisten  the  whole, 
and  season  to  taste  and  let  cool.  Have  ready  some  patty-pans  lined 
with  paste,  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  cover  with  paste,  and  bake  in 
a  fairly  hot  oven  for  about  £  an  hour. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d.,  exclusive 
of  the  paste.  Allow  i  or  2  for  each  person. 

3108.— MUSHROOM   PUDDING.     (Fr.— Pouding  aux 
Champignons.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  cold  water,  i  quart  of  button  or  cup  mushrooms,  washed  and 
peeled,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Make  a  crust  with  the  flour,  baking-powder,  and  5  ozs.  of 
the  butter.  Line  with  it  a  greased  pudding-basin,  put  in  the  mush- 


1330  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

rooms  with  the  remaining  ounce  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and 
moisten  with  a  little  water.  Finish  off  like  a  beefsteak  pudding.  Boil 
for  i£  hours  or  longer. 

Time. — 2  hours.    Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.   Sufficient  for  4  persons* 

3109.— NUT  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — Walnuts  peeled  and  finely  chopped,  mayonnaise  sauce', 
cayenne  or  Krona  pepper,  thin  slices  of  white  OF  brown  bread  and 
butter. 

Method. — Moisten  the  nuts  with  a  little  mayonnaise  sauce,  spread 
rather  thickly  on  bread  and  butter,  and  sprinkle  lightly  with  red 
pepper.  Cover  with  slices  of  bread  and  butter,. trim  off  the  crusts, 
cut  into  triangles.  Dish  up  and  serve  garnished  with  cress  or  parsley. 

Time. — About  %  an  hour.     Cost,  about  ^d.  per  sandwich. 

3110.— ONION      PUDDING.        (Fr.  --  Pouding     aux 
Oignons.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  3  or  4  ozs.  of 
butter  (i  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil  may  be  substituted),  i  teaspoonful 
of  baking  powder,  I  saltspoonful  of  salt,  water.  For  the  mixture  : 
3  or  4  large  mild  onions,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  breadcrumbs,  £  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sage,  salt  and  pepper,  i  or  2  ozs.  of  butter. 

Method. — Cut  the  peeled  onions  into  small  dice,  place  them  in  a 
pie-dish  with  the  breadcrumbs,  butter,  sage,  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  cover  closely,  and  bake  gently  for  i  hour.  Rub  the  butter 
into  the  flour  and  breadcrumbs,  add  the  baking  powder  and  salt,  and 
sufficient  water  to  form  a  rather  stiff  paste.  Line  a  basin  with  the 
paste,  put  in  the  mixture  when  cool,  cover  with  paste,  and  afterwards 
with  2  or  3  folds  of  greased  paper,  and  steam  for  2  hours.  Serve  in 
the  basin,  and  send  brown  sauce  to  table  separately. 

Time. — About  3^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons. 

3111.— PLOVERS'  EGGS  IN  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 6  plovers'  eggs,  i  pint  of  vegetable  stock,  £  an  oz.  of 
vegetable  isinglass,  the  stiffly- whisked  whites  and  the  crushed  shells  of 
2  eggs. 

Method. — Make  the  jelly  as  directed  (see  Aspic  Jelly,  No.  1980).  Boil 
the  eggs  hard,  remove  the  shells,  and  let  the  eggs  remain  covered  with 
cold  water  until  required.  Line  a  border  mould  thinly  with  jelly  (see 
p.  985),  decorate  with  cooked  green  peas  and  fancifully  cut  cooked 
vegetables,  put  in  the  eggs,  and  fill  the  mould  with  cold  liquid  jelly. 
Let  it  remain  on  ice  until  set.  Dish  up  and  serve  garnished  with  salad. 

Time. — 3  or  4  hours  altogether.  Average  Cost,  33.  to  33.  6d.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons. 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1331 

3112.— POTATOES  WITH  CHEESE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  boiled  potatoes,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  pepper 
and  salt,  3  ozs.  of  grated  cheese,  browned  breadcrumbs,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Mash  the  potatoes  while  hot,  add  the  milk,  seasoning,  half 
the  butter  and  cheese.  Butter  a  pie-dish,  strew  the  crumbs  rather 
thickly,  put  in  the  potatoes,  and  bake  for  £  an  hour  in  a  good  oven. 
Turn  out,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  bake  the  pudding  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  $d.  Sufficient 
for  2  persons. 

3113.— POTATO      OMELET.        (Fr.  --  Omelette      au 
Pommes   de   terre.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  potato,  4  eggs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  lemon-juice, 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Bake  the  potato  in  its  skin,  pass  the  mealy  part  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  with  it  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  a  few  drops  of 
lemon- juice,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Whisk 
the  whites  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  in,  and  fry  the  omelet  in  the  hot 
butter.  If  preferred,  the  omelet  may  be  baked  in  the  oven. 

Time. — To  fry  the  omelet,  4  or  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d. 
Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3114.— POTATO  PIE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  potatoes,  i  onion,  i  stick  of  celery,  i  oz.  of 
butter,  i  oz.  of  sago  or  tapioca,  seasoning,  short  crust  paste  No. 
1668  to  cover,  water  or  milk. 

Method. — Slice  the  potatoes  and  the  celery,  fry  the  onion  in  the 
butter  and  fill  a  pie-dish  with  these,  sprinkling  in  the  sago  or  tapioca, 
and  seasoning  to  taste.  Fill  up  with  water  or  milk,  put  on  a  cover  of 
paste,  and  bake  in  a  good  oven  for  i  hour  or  more,  according  to  size. 

Time. — To  bake  the  pie,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  /d.,  exclusive 
of  the  paste.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

3115.— POTATO  ROLLS. 

Ingredients. — Pastry,  potatoes,  turnips,  celery,  onion,  parsley,  sweet 
herbs,  seasoning,  i  oz.  of  butter,  short  crust  paste  No.  1668. 

Method. — Cut  the  potatoes  into  small  pieces.  To  each  Ib.  add  i  small 
piece  of  turnip,  i  stick  of  celery ^  i  small  onion,  chopped  parsley, 
herbs  and  seasoning  to  taste,  and  the  butter.  Roll  out  the  paste  to 
the  thickness  of  J  of  an  inch,  cut  in  rounds  or  squares  4  inches  across, 
fill  each  with  the  vegetables,  fold  it  over  like  a  turnover,  and  bake 
about  £  of  an  hour.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — To  bake  the  rolls,  £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.  or  4d., 
:sivc  of  the  paste,  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  rolls. 


1332  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3116.— POTATO  SANDERS. 

Ingredients. — Boiled  potatoes,  flour,  salt,  breadcrusts  soaked  in  water, 
chopped  parsley  and  herbs,  seasoning,  %  an  onion  soaked  in  boiling 
water. 

Method. — Have  the  potatoes  hot  if  possible,  mash  them  and  work  in 
sufficient  flour  to  roll  out,  then  cut  it  in  squares.  Squeeze  the  bread 
dry,  add  the  other  ingredients,  put  a  little  in  each  square  of  paste, 
and  finish  off  like  sausage  rolls.  Bake  in  a  good  oven  for  20  minutes, 
and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  £d.  each.  Allow 
2  or  3  to  each  person. 

3117.— POTTED     HARICOT     BEANS       (See    Beans, 
Potted,  No.  3089). 

3118.— RICE  CROQUETTES  AND  CHEESE. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  rice,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  pint  of  water,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  2  eggs,  cayenne,  salt 
and  pepper,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Cook  the  rice  as  directed  in  the  following  recipe,  adding 
the  cheese  at  the  same  time  as  the  eggs. 

Time. — To  cook  the  rice,  from  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Suffi- 
cient for  5  or  6  persons. 

3119.— RICE  CROQUETTES,  SAVOURY. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  rice,  i  pint  of  milk  (about),  i  pint  of  water, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  i  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper,  eggs  and  bread- 
crumbs, frying-fat. 

Method. — Wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  level  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  add  the  onion,  milk,  and  water.  Boil  gently  until  the  rice 
is  tender,  adding  more  milk  if  necessary  ;  but  when  ready  no  unab- 
sorbed  liquor  should  remain.  Add  the  butter,  parsley,  2  eggs,  more 
seasoning  if  necessary,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  10  minutes. 
Let  the  preparation  become  cold,  form  it  into  cork-shaped  pieces,  and 
coat  them  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs.  Fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely 
browned,  drain  well,  and  serve  garnished  with  crisply-fried  parsley. 

Time. — To  cook  the  rice,  from  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

3120.— RICE  AU  GRATIN. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  rice,  £  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces, 
No.  222),  grated  cheese,  butter,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  rice,  throw  it  into  a  large  saucepanful  of  rapidly- 
boiling  salted  water,  boil  for  12  or  14  minutes,  then  drain,  wash,  and 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1333 

dry  thoroughly.  Make  the  sauce  as  directed,  and,  as  soon  as  the  rice 
is  thoroughly  cooked  and  dry,  add  it  to  the  rice,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Turn  it  into  a  shallow  baking-dish,  or  several  coquille 
moulds,  sprinkle  the  top  thickly  with  grated  cheese,  add  a  few  small 
pieces  of  butter,  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  nicely  browned,  and  serve. 
Time. — To  cook  and  dry  the  rice,  about  i  £  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

3121.— RICE  CROUSTADES. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  rice,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  quart  of  water  (milk 
or  stock  may  be  substituted),  salt  and  pepper,  eggs,  breadcrumbs, 
frying-fat. 

Method. — Pick  and  wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the  cold 
water,  add  the  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook 
gently  until  tender,  adding  more  water  if  necessary,  but  the  preparation 
must  be  rather  dry.  Spread  it  on  a  tin  or  dish,  making  it  not  less  than 
i£  inches  in  thickness,  and,  when  cold,  stamp  out  into  rounds  2  inches 
in  diameter.  Coat  them  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat 
until  nicely  browned,  and  drain  well.  When  cool,  remove  the  centre 
from  the  top  of  each  croustade  by  means  of  a  i^-inch  cutter,  and  scoop 
out  the  greater  part  of  the  inside.  Egg  and  crumb  them  and  fry  in  hot 
oil  or  butter.  Fill  the  croustades  with  mushrooms  or  minced  tomatoes, 
cauliflower,  peas  or  any  other  kind  of  suitable  vegetable. 

Time. — To  cook  the  rice,  from  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  croustades. 

3122.— RICE  CUTLETS. 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  i  tablcspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  onion,  i  bay-leaf,  £  a  teaspoon ful  of  finely- powdered  mixed 
herbs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  3  eggs,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper,  i  quart  of 
milk,  or  equal  parts  of  milk  and  vegetable  stock,  oil  or  butter  for 
frying. 

Method. — Pick,  wash  and  drain  the  rice,  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with 
the  onion,  bay-leaf,  herbs,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  until 
the  milk  is  absorbed  and  the  rice  tender.  When  ready,  stir  in  the 
butter  and  2  eggs,  cook  and  stir  the  mixture  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for 
4  or  5  minutes,  then  turn  on  to  a  plate.  Before  it  is  quite  cold  form 
into  cutlets,  coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  butter  or  oil 
until  nicely  browned. 

Time. — 2\  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

3123.— RISOTTO. 

Ingredients. —  i  teacupful  (about  4  ozs.)  of  Carolina  rice,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  i  small  onion  finely  chopped,  i  pint  of 
vegetable  stock  or  water,  salt  and  pepper,  2  ozs.  of  butter. 


1334  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  rice  thoroughly.  Heat  the  butter,  fry 
the  onion  until  lightly  browned,  then  add  the  rice,  and  fry  it  until  it 
acquires  a  nice  brown  colour.  Put  in  the  stock  or  water,  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  boil  rapidly  for  10  minutes,  and  afterwards  simmer 
slowly  until  the  rice  has  absorbed  all  the  liquid.  Stir  in  the  cheese, 
add  more  seasoning  if  necessary,  then  serve.  A  little  tomato  puree  or 
tomato  sauce  may  be  added  to  vary  the  dish. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3 
persons. 

3124.— SAVOURY  RISSOLES. 

Ingredients. — 6  tablespoonfuls  of  mashed  potato,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
breadcrumbs,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonf ul 
of  finely-chopped  onion,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  whole  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
butter  or  frying-fat,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Mix  the  potato,  breadcrumbs,  parsley,  onion,  and  a  liberal 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  well  together,  and  moisten  with  the  yolks  of 
eggs,  adding  a  little  milk  if  the  mixture  appears  at  all  dry.  Form  into 
round  flat  cakes,  coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs, .  and  fry  in  hot 
butter  or  fat  until  nicely  browned. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d.  Sufficient  for  2 
to  3  persons. 

Note. — See  Savoury  Rice  Rolls  No.  2993  '•  Vermicelli,  Croquettes  of,  No.  2997  ; 
and  other  vegetarian  dishes  included  in  Farinaceous  Preparations,  Chap- 
ter XL. 

3125.— SAVOURY  LENTILS. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  lentils,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  %  a  pint 
of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  222),  salt  and  pepper. 

Msthod. — Soak  the  lentils  in  tepid  water  for  3  hours,  changing  it 
as  it  becomes  cold.  Melt  half  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  lightly  fry 
the  onion  and  add  the  lentils,  previously  drained,  then  cover  with 
warm  water,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  gently  for  about 
2  hours.  As  soon  as  the  lentils  are  tender,  remove  the  lid  ;  when 
the  water  has  evaporated  allow  the  lentils  to  dry,  add  the  rest  of  the 
butter,  the  white  sauce  and  the  parsley,  season  to  taste,  toss  over  the 
fire  until  thoroughly  hot.  Dish  up  and  serve. 

Time. — 6  hours.  Average  Cost,  /d.  or  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  sauce. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

3126.— SAVOURY  RICE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  rice,  i  small  onion,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
cheese,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  a  dessertspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley  and  herbs,  cayenne  and  salt,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1335 

Method. — Boil  the  rice  in  water  with  the  onion  chopped  finely. 
When  tender  and  nearly  dry,  stir  in  the  other  ingredients.  The  rice 
should  be  firm  enough  to  make  a  mound  on  the  dish.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d.  Sufficient  for  3  or 
4  persons. 

3127.— SAVOURY  SEMOLINA. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  semolina,  2  ozs.  of  grated  cheese,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  pepper  and  salt,  cayenne, 
breadcrumbs,  i  quart  of  milk. 

Method. — Boil  up  the  milk,  sprinkle  in  the  semolina,  stir  and  cook  for 
15  minutes,  then  add  the  cheese,  butter,  mustard  and  pepper,  salt 
and  cayenne  to  taste.  Turn  into  a  buttered  gratin  dish,  or  s> 
china  scallop  shells,  sprinkle  liberally  with  breadcrumbs  and  cheese, 
and  add  a  few  very  small  pieces  of  butter.  Brown  in  a  hot  oven, 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  lod.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons. 


3128.— SCOTCH  STEW. 

Ingredients. — 3  tablespoonfuls  of  pearl  barley,  £  a  small  cabbage  or  i 
lettuce  shredded,  £  a  head  of  celery,  3  onions,  2  carrots,  i  turnip,  all 
cut  into  large  pieces,  to  which  may  be  added  other  vegetables  in 
season,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — Blanch  the  pearl  barley,  cover  it  with  fresh  water,  and 
simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour.  Place  all  the  vegetables,  except  the  cabbage 
or  lettuce,  in  a  stcwpan,  add  the  pearl  barley  and  the  water  in  which  it 
was  cooked,  together  with  boiling  water  to  barely  cover  the  whole, 
and  season  to  taste.  Boil  gently  until  the  vegetables  are  nearly  done, 
then  add  the  shredded  cabbage  or  lettuce,  cook  for  10  minutes  longer, 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  7d.  or  8d.     Sufficient  for  2  or  3 


3129.— SPAGHETTI. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  spaghetti,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  grated  cheese, 
^  of  a  pint  of  white  or  tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces,  Nos.  223-281), 
iuitn  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Put  the  spaghetti  into  boiling  salted  water,  cook  rapidly  for 

about  20  minutes,  or  until  tender,  and  drain  well.     Stir  in  the  butter, 

•  •  and  sauce,  add  nutmeg,  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 

mix  well.      The    spaghetti  may  be  served  in  this  condition,  or,  when 


1336  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

white  sauce  is  used,  it  may  be  browned  in  the  oven  in  a  shallow  baking- 
dish,  or  china  scallop  shells. 

Time. — About  30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons. 

3130.— TOMATO  AND  ONION  PIE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Spanish  onions,  2  Ibs.  of  firm  tomatoes,  breadcrumbs, 
butter  and  seasoning. 

Method. — Peel  the  onions,  cover  them  with  boiling  water,  let  them 
remain  for  at  least  2  hours,  then  drain  and  dry  thoroughly,  and  cut 
them  into  slices.  Heat  up  i  oz.  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  fry  the 
onions  until  lightly  browned.  Slice  the  tomatoes,  place  them  in  alter- 
nate layers  with  the  onion  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,  sprinkling  each 
layer  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  liberally  with  breadcrumbs. 
Cover  the  whole  with  a  good  layer  of  breadcrumbs,  add  a  few  small 
pieces  of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about  i  hour. 

Time. — Altogether,  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d.  Suffi- 
cient for  4  or  5  persons. 

3I3I._VEGETABLE  GOOSE. 

Ingredients. — J-  a  Ib.  of  breadcrumbs  soaked  in  cold  water,  i  onion, 
i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  herbs,  i  oz.  of  butter,  pepper  and 
salt. 

Method. — Squeeze  the  bread  nearly  dry,  and  mash  it,  mix  in  the  other 
ingredients,  chopped  small.  Butter  a  Yorkshire  pudding-dish,  put 
in  the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  good  oven  for  about  £  hour.  Serve  hot, 
and  cut  in  squares. 

Time. — About  i|  hours.     Average  Cost,  3d.     Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3I32.— VEGETABLE  MARROW,  STUFFED. 

Ingredients. — i  vegetable  marrow.  For  the  forcemeat  :  3  or  4  table- 
spoonfuls  of  coarsely-chopped  mushrooms,  i  tablespoonful  of  bread- 
crumbs, i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Peel  the  marrow,  cut  it  in  half  lengthwise,  and  remove 
the  seeds.  Heat  the  butter,  fry  the  mushrooms  lightly,  add  the 
breadcrumbs,  and  season  to  taste.  Place  the  hot  forcemeat  inside 
the  marrow,  replace  the  halves,  and  fasten  them  securely  with  string. 
Cover  with  seasoned  boiling  water,  and  boil  gently  for  about  20 
minutes,  or  place  the  preparation  in  a  covered  pie-dish  with  a  small 
quantity  of  hot  water,  and  bake  slowly  for  £  an  hour.  Serve  with 
white  or  brown  sauce. 

Time. — 45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  Sufficient  for  3  persons. 
. — Marrows  may  also  be  stuffed  with  onion  or  veal  forcemeat. 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1337 
3I33._VEGETABLE  PIE. 

Ingredients. — i  onion,  i  carrot,  I  stick  of  celery,  a  handful  of  green 
peas,  £  an  oz.  of  sago  or  tapioca,  i  oz.  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  a 
teaspoonful  of  flour,  short  crust  paste  No.  1668  to  cover. 

Method. — Stew  all  the  above  ingredients  together  in  a  very  little  water 
until  they  are  three  parts  cooked.  They  should  be  cut  into  small 
pieces.  Then  place  them  in  a  pie-dish,  cover  it  with  a  crust  like  a 
meat  pie,  and  bake  it  until  the  crust  is  done.  The  pie  may  be  made 
of  any  vegetables  that  are  in  season.  A  few  mushrooms  or  some 
mushroom  powder  are  an  improvement. 

Time. — To  bake  the  pie,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.  or  4d., 
exclusive  of  the  paste.  Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3134.— VEGETABLE  PIE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  boiled  macaroni,  3  hard  boiled  eggs,  veal 
forcemeat  made  with  oil  or  butter  instead  of  suet,  i  or  2  tomatoes. 

Method. — Prepare  and  slice  the  eggs  and  tomatoes,  cut  the  macaroni 
into  pieces,  fill  into  a  pie-dish,  season  well,  and  finish  same  as  meat 
pie.  Bake  until  the  crust  is  done. 

Time. — To  bake  the  pie,  about  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  iod., 
exclusive  of  the  paste.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

3135.— WHEATMEAL  DUMPLINGS.  (See  Wholemeal 
Bread,  Fermented,  No.  3316,  and  Norfolk 
Dumplings,  No.  1879.) 

Form  small  pieces  of  dough  (wholemeal  or  ordinary  bread  dough) 
into  dumplings,  cook  them  as  directed  for  Norfolk  dumplings,  and 
serve  with  cream  and  sugar,  golden  syrup  or  jam. 


Sauces 

3136.— BROWN  GRAVY. 

Ingredients. — 2  onions,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  f-  of  a  pint  of  hot 
water,  seasoning,  i  oz.  of  butter  or  a  tablespoonful  of  oil. 

Method. — Chop  the  onions,  fry  them  brown  in  the  butter,  add  the 
flour,  which  must  also  brown.  Pour  in  the  water,  and  stir  until  the 
mixture  thickens,  then  season  it  to  taste.  Any  kind  of  vegetable 
stock  is  preferable  to  water. 


1338  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3137.— BROWN  GRAVY.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  onion,  \  a  carrot,  \  a  turnip,  parsley,  herbs,  and  bay 
leaf,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  pint  of  water,  i  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar,  a 
lump  of  sugar,  spice,  a  teaspoonful  of  ketchup  or  other  condiment  sauce. 

Method. — Fry  the  chopped  vegetables  in  the  butter  until  they  are 
dark  brown  ;  add  the  flour  and  water,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  boils; 
then  put  in  the  parsley,  herbs,  vinegar,  sugar,  spice  and  seasoning  to 
taste.  Simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  about  i  hour,  strain,  and  add 
the  ketchup. 

Time. — About  i-|-  hours.  Average  Cost,  3d.  Sufficient  for  \  pint  of 
gravy. 

3138.— SHARP  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — Salad-oil,  i  onion,  i  tomato,  3  mushrooms,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
|-  of  a  pint  of  water,  vinegar,  sweet  herbs,  pepper  and  salt,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Put  in  a  saucepan  2  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  with  the  onion, 
tomato,  and  mushrooms,  all  very  finely  chopped.  When  nicely 
browned  add  the  flour,  and  let  it  brown  also,  then  £  of  a  pint  of  water 
or  vegetable  stock,  and  stir  the  mixture  till  it  boils.  Put  in  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  a  few  sweet  herbs.  Simmer  for  a  few  minutes; 
strain  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

3I39._TOMATO  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 6  ripe  tomatoes,  pepper  and  salt,  water. 

Method. — Put  the  tomatoes  in  just  enough  water  to  prevent  their 
burning,  and  cook  them  till  soft,  either  in  the  oven  or  over  the  fire. 
Rub  them  through  a  sieve,  then  reheat  the  puree, "and  add  a  very 
little  sugar,  also  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Time. — \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

3140.— TOMATO  SAUCE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  6  tomatoes,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of  flour, 
£  a  pint  of  water,  seasoning. 

Method. — Prepare  the  tomatoes  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  or  peel 
and  quarter  them,  removing  the  core  and  pips  before  they  are  cooked. 
Make  £  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter  with  the  above  ingredients,  add  the 
tomatoes  and  the  seasoning,  give  the  mixture  one  boil,  and  serve. 
Some  persons  like  to  add  a  flavour  of  onion,  which  should  be  cooked 
with  the  tomato  and  then  removed. 

Time. — %  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d. 


RECIPES  FOR   VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1339 
3141.— WALNUT  GRAVY. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  vegetable  stock,  No.  8,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
walnut  ketchup,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Make  the  stock  as  directed,  strain,  season  to  taste,  add  the 
walnut  ketchup,  and  serve.  The  colour  may  be  improved  by  the 
addition  of  a  few  drops  of  caramel. 

Time. — Altogether,  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  i£d.  to  2d. 

3142.— WALNUT  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  pint  of  vegetable  stock, 
No.  8,  2  pickled  walnuts  coarsely  chopped,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  walnut 
ketchup,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  fry  in  it  the  flour  gently  until  well  browned, 
and  pour  in  the  stock.  Stir  and  boil  gently  for  10  minutes,  then 
season  to  taste,  add  the  walnuts  and  walnut  ketchup,  and  serve.  A 
few  drops  of  caramel  may  be  added  to  improve  the  colour. 

Time. — From  30  to  40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d.  to  5d. 

3143.— WHITE    SAUCE    FOR    PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients. —  i  lemon,  i  teaspoonful  of  cornflour,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk,  £  a  pint  of  water,  i  teaspoonful  of  white  sugar. 

Method. — Peel  the  lemon  thinly,  boil  the  lemon-rind  in  the  water, 
mix  the  cornflour  with  the  milk  to  a  smooth  paste,  and  pour  on  the 
boiling  water.  Put  it  back  in  the  saucepan  with  the  sugar,  and  let 
it  boil  for  10  minutes  ;  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  serve. 

Time. — 15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2\(.\. 


Farinaceous  Foods 

3144.— GRISSINI  STICKS. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  fine  flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  whites  of  egg, 
i  yolk  of  egg,  freezing-salt,  milk,  salt,  cayenne. 

Method. — Sieve  the  flour  on  to  a  board,  make  a  well  in  the  centre, 
add  the  butter  previously  creamed  until  soft  and  smooth,  the  well- 
beaten  whites  and  yolk  of  egg,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  little  cayenne. 
Work  it  into  a  smooth  paste,  roll  out  rather  thickly,  and  cut  into  narrow 
strips,  which  must  afterwards  be  rolled  with  the  hand  into  a  round  form. 
Cut  the  sticks  about  4  inches  long,  brush  them  over  with  milk,  sprinkle 
with  coarse  freezing-salt,  and  bake  for 'about  10  minutes  in  a  quick 
oven.  Before  :  erving,  tie  them  in  small  bundles  with  coloured  ribbon. 
If  preferred,  these  sticks,  which  are  also  called  "  salt  sticks,"  may  be 


1340  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

made  from  firm  Vienna  bread  dough,  which  is  rolled  out,  and  com- 
pleted as  described  above. 

Average  Cost. — 6d.  or  /d.     Sufficient  for  about  30  sticks. 

3145.— HOMINY  PORRIDGE. 

Ingredients. — Hominy,  water,  a  piece  of  butter. 

Method. — Pour  boiling  water  on  the  hominy  over  night,  and  let  it 
stand  until  morning.  Then  add  more  water  if  necessary,  and  boil 
for  at  least  \  an  hour.  Stir  in  the  butter  just  before  serving. 

Time. — \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  2d.  or  3d.     Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

Note. — Hominy  is  the  inner  part  of  the  maize  and  bears  about  the  same 
relation  to  maize-meal  that  coarsely-ground  flour  does  to  whole  wheat  meal. 
It  is  not  so  nourishing,  but  being  less  oily  it  keeps  well,  and  has  not  the  char- 
acteristic flavour  of  maize-meal,  which  is  unpleasant  to  some  persons. 

3146.— HOMINY  FRITTERS. 

Ingredients. — Cold  hominy  porridge,  fat  to  fry,  flour. 

Method. — Cut  the  cold  porridge  into  slices,  about  i  inch  thick,  flour 
them  lightly  on  both  sides,  and  fry  in  a  frying-pan  with  butter  or  oil. 
Serve  hot. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  uncertain. 

3147.— LENTIL  PORRIDGE. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  lentil  flour,  i  pint  of  water,  salt,  butter. 

Method. — Put  the  flour  and  salt  in  a  basin,  with  a  little  cold  water, 
add  the  rest  of  the  water  boiling,  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  for  20 
minutes.  Stir  in  the  butter  just  before  serving.  Half  lentil  and  half 
barley  or  wheat-flour  is  preferred  by  some,  and  makes  a  close  imitation 
of  the  Revalenta  Arabica,  so  much  advertised  for  invalids. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,   i^d.     Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3148.— MAIZE    MEAL    PORRIDGE,    POLENTA,  OR 
MUSH. 

Ingredients. — Indian  meal,  salt,  water. 

Method. — Boil  the  water,  sprinkle  in  the  Indian  meal  with  one  hand, 
and  stir  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  or  spatula.  Boil  for  about  10  minutes. 
Stir  in  a  piece  of  butter,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d.  or  3d.     Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

Note. — Both  yellow  and  white  maize  is  sold.  The  yellow,  known  as 
polenta  in  Italy,  is  the  richest  in  mineral  matter  and  in  fat.  It  must  be  used 
quickly  or  kept  in  a  covered  tin,  as  it  very  soon  absorbs  moisture  from  the 
air  and  turns  bitter.  Maize  meal  is  also  sold  in  packets  steam-dried  and 
partially  cooked. 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1341 
3149.— OATMEAL  PORRIDGE. 

Ingredients. — Oatmeal,  salt,  water. 

Method. — There  are  several  ways  of  making  porridge.  The  one 
generally  adopted — although  by  no  means  the  best — is  to  sprinkle 
the  oatmeal  into  boiling,  slightly  salted  water  with  the  left  hand, 
meanwhile  stirring  briskly  with  a  wooden  spoon  or  wooden  spatula. 
When  the  porridge  is  thick  enough,  the  stewpan  is  drawn  to  the  side 
of  the  fire,  and  the  contents,  slowly  cooked  from  20  to  30  minutes, 
being  occasionally  stirred  to  prevent  it  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the 
pan.  A  better  method  is  to  soak  4  oz.  of  oatmeal  in  i£  pints  of  cold 
water  overnight,  and  in  the  morning  strain  the  water  into  a  stewpan, 
and  when  boiling  add  the  oatmeal,  and  salt  to  taste.  Twenty  minutes' 
gentle  simmering  will  sufficiently  cook  it,  and  it  must  be  well  stirred 
during  the  process.  Probably  the  best  plan  of  all  is  to  use  a  water- 
jacketed  saucepan  for  making  porridge,  for  it  is  always  desirable  to 
have  oatmeal  thoroughly  cooked,  and  as  the  water  in  the  outer  pan 
obviates  the  necessity  of  frequent  stirring,  the  porridge  may,  with 
little  trouble,  be  cooked  for  2  or  3  hours  on  the  previous  day,  and  re- 
heated when  required ;  a  pinch  of  salt  should  always  be  added  to  the 
porridge.  There  are  3  varieties  of  oatmeal — coarse,  medium,  and 
fine;  any  kind  may  be  used  for  making  porridge,  but  coarse  oatmeal 
is  generally  preferred. 

3150.— OATMEAL  SCONES. 

Ingredients. — Cold  oatmeal  porridge,  flour. 

Method. — Into  the  cold  porridge  knead  as  much  flour  as  will  enable 
it  to  be  rolled  out  £  of  an  inch  thick.  Cut  in  3-cornered  pieces,  and  bake 
on  a  greased  griddle  or  in  the  oven.  Serve  hot,  split,  and  buttered. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  20  to  25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  uncertain. 

3151.— PEASE  BROSE. 

Ingredients.  Prepare  and  cook  as  maize  meal  porridge,  No.  3148,  using 
about  2  tablespoonfuls  of  pease  meal,  rather  less  than  £  a  pint  of 
water,  I  oz.  of  butter,  and  salt. 

3152.— PEA  FRITTERS. 

Ingredients. — Cold  brose,  or  lentil  porridge,  breadcrumbs,  herbs,  onions, 
seasoning,  flour,  frying-fat. 

Method.  -Mix  with  the  cold  porridge  "about  its  own  bulk  in 
breadcrumbs.  Add  a  little  chopped  onion  and  sweet  herbs,  and 
seasoning  to  taste.  Shape  the  preparation  into  flat  cakes,  flour  them, 
and  fry  a  nice  brown  in  the  frying-pan. 

Time. — 10  minutes      Average  Cost,  uncertain. 


1342  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3153.— POLENTA  AND  CHEESE. 

Ingredients. — Cold  maize-meal  porridge,  butter  or  oil,  grated  cheese, 
salt  and  cayenne. 

Method. — Cut  the  cold  polenta  into  square  or  oblong  pieces  about 
I  of  an  inch  thick.  Arrange  them  on  a  flat  dish,  or  a  pie-dish,  in  layers, 
with  grated  cheese  between  and  over  the  top.  Put  a  few  pieces  of 
butter  over,  and  bake  till  brown  in  a  good  oven.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  uncertain. 

3154.— WHEAT-MEAL  PORRIDGE. 

Ingredients. — Wheat  meal  coarsely-ground,  water. 
Method. — Proceed  as  directed  for  Oatmeal,  No.  3149. 


Puddings  and  Pastry 

It  is  unnecessary  to  repeat  any  recipes  for  butter  pastry.  All  those 
in  the  chapter  on  puddings  and  pastry  are  suitable. 

Nor  is  there  any  difficulty  in  selecting  puddings  made  from  vegetable 
products.  The  only  peculiarity  that  might  be  said  to  belong  to  vege- 
tarian puddings,  as  a  class,  is  that  they  are  more  solid  and  satisfying 
than  puddings  that  are  often  thrown  in  as  a  luxury,  rather  than  as  a 
food,  at  the  end  of  a  repast  of  meat. 

In  strict  vegetarian  cookery  suet  is  replaced  by  one  of  the  nut  butters, 
now  so  plentiful  on  the  market.  In  Italy  and  Corsica  a  flour  made 
from  dried  chestnuts  is  much  used.  It  is  of  a  dark-brown  colour,  and 
richly  nitrogenous.  Carefully  used,  it  makes  excellent  puddings  and 
cakes. 

3155.— GINGERBREAD  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  flour,  -£-  a  Ib.  of  treacle,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  i  egg,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  baking-powder  and  ginger  with  the  flour,  rub  in 
the  butter,  add  the  treacle  and  the  egg,  well  beaten,  and  mix  all  to- 
gether; flour  a  pudding  cloth,  put  in  the  mixture,  and  boil  for  i£  hours. 
Serve  with  butter  sauce. 

Time. —  2  hours.    Average  Cost,  6d.  to  /d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 

3156.— MINCE-MEAT. 

Ingredients. — 6  lemons,  \  a  Ib.  of  apples,  i  Ib.  of  raisins,  weighed 
when  picked  and  stoned;  i  Ib.  of  currants,  i  Ib.  of  sugar,  \  a  Ib.  of  fresh 
butter,  2  ozs.  of  candied  citron,  2  ozs.  of  candied  orange,  i£  salt- 


RECIPES  FOR  VEGETARIAN  COOKERY          1343 

spoonfuls  of  cayenne,  i  teaspoonful  of  mace,  one  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  almond  essence. 

Method. — Grate  off  the  lemon-rind,  cut  the  lemons  in  two,  and  squeeze 
out  the  juice,  boil  the  rinds  in  spring  water  till  tender,  but  not  soft, 
changing  the  water  4  or  5  times  to  take  out  the  bitterness,  and  putting 
a  large  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  the  water  in  which  they  are  first  boiled. 
When  done,  drain  the  water  from  them,  and  take  out  the  seeds  and  inner 
skins,  then  chop  them  with  the  raisins  in  a  wooden  bowl;  when  finely- 
chopped  add  the  currants,  sugar,  and  apples  (previously  prepared  as 
for  sauce),  the  grated  rind  of  the  lemons,  the  juice,  £  a  saltspoonful 
of  cayenne  pepper,  a  small  teaspoonful  of  mace,  a  small  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  12  or  15  drops  of  almond  flavour,  the  candied  orange  and 
citron  cut  in  thin  slices,  and  lastly,  the  butter  melted  and  stirred  well  in. 

Average  Cost. — 2s.  2d. 

3157.— PASTRY  WITHOUT  BUTTER. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  a  small 
wineglassful  of  salad-oil,  water. 

Method.— Mix  the  flour  and  baking-powder.  Add  the  oil  to  cold 
water,  and  stir  the  paste  to  a  proper  consistency  for  rolling.  Fold  it 
over  and  roll  it  out  2  or  3  times,  place  on  a  baking  tin,  and  bake 
immediately. 

3158.— PLUM  PUDDING.     (Fr.— Pouding  de  Noel.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of  currants,  \  a  Ib.  of  sultanas, 
4  ozs.  of  butter,  3  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  nutmeg,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Method. — Mix  the  powder  with  the  flour,  rub  in  the  butter,  and  add 
the  currants  and  raisins,  the  lemon-peel  finely  grated,  a  lit  tie  nutmeg, 
and  the  eggs  well  beaten.  Put  it  in  a  buttered  basin,  boil  or  steam 
for  4  hours,  and  serve  with  white  sauce. 

Time. — 5  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  2d.     Sufficient  for  i  large  pudding. 

Note. — The   foregoing  recipes  are  based   on   strict   vegetarian   principles. 

rians  whose  diet  includes  milk  and  egps  will  find  many  useful 
among  the  recipes  for  Vegetables  in  Chapter  XXX.  See  Asparagus.  French 
No.  1446;  Asparagus  with  Eggs,  No.  1445;  Asparagus  Rolls,  No.  1450; 
Broad  Beans  with  Spanish  Sauce,  No.  1458  ;  Ragout  of  Celery,  No.  1490; 
Stuffed  Cucumbers,  No.  1505;  Cucumbers  with  Eggs,  No.  1501;  Leeks  with 
Poached  Eggs,  No.  1522. 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS 
ON    INVALID  COOKERY 


CHAPTER     XLIV 

Diet  of  the  Sick. — It  is  not  possible  to  lay  down  universal  laws  on  the 
diet  of  sick  persons.  Given  any  two  persons  suffering  from  disease, 
the  temperament,  the  disease,  and  the  needs  of  the  one  may  be  entirely 
different  from  those  of  the  other.  One  may  be  in  danger  of  collapse 
from  weakness;  another  may  be  in  a  high  fever.  One  may  need  to  make 
blood  and  regain  strength,  the  other  may  be  suffering  from  a  lifetime  of 
overfeeding  and  underwork.  It  is  evident  that  to  feed  all  these  people 
alike  would  be  ridiculous.  What  suits  some  patients  might  injure 
others.  There  are  besides  many  persons  hopelessly  ill,  for  whom  food 
and  physic  can  do  no  more  than  keep  them  alive  with  the  least  possible 
discomfort.  One  can  only  make  the  food  pleasant  to  the  eye  and  taste, 
and  easily  digestible,  remembering  always,  that  in  the  course  of  any 
long  illness  the  human  machine  is  so  worn  that  the  least  extra  strain 
may  stop  its  working  altogether.  It  is  with  such  cases  as  these  that  the 
art  of  sick-room  cookery  is  of  most  avail. 

Roughly  speaking,  the  fundamental  idea  of  sick-room  diet  is  (i)  to 
select  food  that  will  provide  the  necessary  nourishment,  and  will  not 
strain  any  digestive  organs  that  may  be  affected  ;  (2)  to  compensate 
for  any  waste  or  drain  upon  the  system.  Untrained  persons  often 
have  a  superstitious  faith  in  the  cravings  of  the  sick,  and  will  disobey 
the  doctor  to  gratify  the  patient.  If  a  doctor  knows  his  business,  he 
ought  to  be  trusted  and  obeyed.  But  it  is  well  known  that  even  in 
health  people  crave  for  and  obtain  things  to  eat  and  drink  that  do  them 
harm.  Why  should  a  diseased  appetite  be  more  dependable  than  a 
healthy  one? 

In  some  cases  (notably  after  fever)  the  patient  develops  a  surprising 
appetite,  which,  in  the  state  of  his  digestive  organs,  it  would  be  dan- 
gerous to  gratify,  while  other  patients  will  actually  sink  from 
exhaustion  while  refusing  all  food. 

Overfeeding  gives  no  Strength. — Nothing  is  more  common  than  to 
find  some  such  reasoning  as  this:  "  All  invalids  are  more  or  less  weak; 
weakness  is  to  be  cured  by  food;  all  persons  in  poor  health  should  be 
persuaded  or  coerced  into  taking  as  much  food  as  possible."  It  is 

1344 


INVALID    COOKERY. 


bled  Egg  and  Chicken  Cream.    3  — Quenelle*  of  Chicken,  with  Peas  and  Fruit  Jelly 
of  Sole  and  Lemon  Cream.        4-— Plain  Omelet,  Mutton  Cutlets,  and  Cauliflower. 


INVALID  COOKERY  1345 

forgotten  that  not  what  a  man  swallows  feeds  him,  but  what  he  is  able 
to  digest  and  assimilate  out  of  what  he  swallows.  To  overload  feeble 
digestive  organs  is  the  surest  way  of  preventing  them  from  doing 
even  as  much  work  as  they  could  do  if  they  were  allowed  to  work 
quietly.  Again,  a  little  wise  starvation  is  Nature's  cure,  and  the  best 
for  many  complaints. 

Diet  as  a  Cure. — There  are  not  a  few  diseases  where  the  only  hope  of 
cure  or  alleviation  lies  in  rigid  abstention  from  some  sorts  of  food. 
Diet  can  often  cure  where  drugs  are  useless  or  worse. 

Food  or  Physic  ? — Many  well  known  remedies  are  thought  to  be  physic 
because  they  are  prescribed  by  the  doctor  and  sold  by  the  chemist, 
but  they  are,  in  reality,  foods.  The  best  example  is  cod-liver  oil, 
the- most  digestible  of  all  fats,  given  often  to  consumptive  and  other 
persons,  who  either  cannot  take  other  fats,  or  who  do  not  like  any  fat, 
and  will  not  force  themselves  to  swallow  fat  food  as  they  do  to  take 
fat  physic.  Cream,  or  any  other  fat,  if  it  is  digested,  answers  the  same 
purpose  as  oil. 

Certain  Rules  apply  to  all  sick-room  feeding.  Give  little  food  and 
often.  It  is  a  mistake  to  persuade  a  patient  to  swallow  large  quantities 
at  once.  What  is  eaten  willingly  and  with  relish  does  more  good  than 
double  the  amount  swallowed  with  disgust.  At  the  same  time,  it  must 
be  remembered  that  when  people  are  very  ill  they  will  often  refuse  to 
swallow  anything,  though  they  are  actually  sinking  for  want  of  food. 

Let  the  food  come  at  stated  times,  and  punctually.  A  very  weak 
patient  faints  and  flags  if  the  hour  is  stretched  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter. 
A  convalescent  looks  forward  to  meals  as  the  great  event  of  the  day, 
and  frets  and  worries  if  they  do  not  come  to  time.  As  a  rule,  a  patient 
should  not  be  awakened  to  be  fed,  though  it  may  sometimes  be 
necessary.  Amateur  nurses  often  forget  to  feed  in  the  small  hours  of  the 
morning,  when  the  patient's  strength  is  always  at  the  lowest  ebb.  If 
obliged  to  wait  a  long  time  the  patient  loses  the  desire  to  eat,  and  often 
turns  against  the  food  when  brought. 

When  there  is  no  appetite,  give  such  food  as  affords  most  nourish- 
ment for  the  least  work,  either  to  the  digestive  organs  or  to  the  teeth. 
If  the  patient  is  very  weak  the  exertion  of  eating,  even  without  mastica- 
tion, is  already  very  severe.  Put  the  greatest  amount  of  nourishment 
into  the  smallest  space,  and  let  the  food  be  already  divided. 

Let  such  work  of  digestion  as  there  must  be  fall  on  the  part  of  the 
patient  that  is  best  able  to  bear  it,  as  to  which  the  doctor  should  be  the 
best  judge. 

Only  just  so  much  as  the  patient  is  likely  to  eat  should  be  taken 
into  the  sick-room,  and  what  remains  should  be  at  once  removed. 
Never  keep  any  food  standing  by  the  bedside.  Never  leave  food  about 
a  sick-room  ;  if  the  patient  cannot  eat  it  when  brought  to  him,  take 
it  away,  and  bring  it  to  him  in  an  hour  or  two's  time.  Miss  Nightingale 
says  :  "  To  leave  the  patient's  untasted  food  by  his  side  from  meal  to 

X    X 


1346  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

meal,  in  hopes  that  he  will  eat  it  in  the  interval,  is  simply  to  prevent 
him  from  taking  food  at  all.  I  have  known  patients  literally  incapa- 
citated from  taking  one  article  of  food  after  another  by  this  piece 
of  ignorance.  Let  the  food  come  at  the  right  time  and  be  taken  away, 
eaten  or  uneaten,  at  the  right  time  ;  but  never  let  the  patient  have 
'  something  always  standing  '  by  him,  if  you  don't  wish  to  disgust  him 
with  everything." 

In  a  case  of  infectious  fever,  all  remains  of  food  should  at  once  be 
burnt,  and  on  no  account  eaten  by  another  person.  The  nurse  should 
not  take  her  meals  in  the  sick-room. 

For  a  convalescent  the  food  should  be  as  varied  as  possible.  In  the 
monotonous  existence  of  the  sick-room  small  events  appear  great. 

For  invalids,  never  make  a  large  quantity  of  one  thing,  as  they 
seldom  require  much  at  a  time.  Because  a  patient  once  likes  a  food, 
do  not  repeat  it  till  he  is  tired  of  its  very  name. 

If  the  food  may  not  be  varied,  the  mode  of  serving  may.  A  stray 
flower,  or  a  new  patterned  plate,  is  better  than  no  variety  at  all.  Let 
everything  look  as  tempting  as  possible.  Have  a  clean  tray-cloth 
laid  smoothly  over  the  tray ;  let  the  spoons,  tumblers,  cups  and  saucers, 
etc.,  be  very  clean  and  bright.  Gruel  served  in  a  tumbler  is  more 
appetising  than  when  served  in  a  basin,  or  cup  and  saucer.  Do  not 
put  a  very  little  broth  in  the  bottom  of  a  very  large  basin.  Let  all 
kitchen  utensils  used  in  the  preparation  of  invalid's  cookery  be  scrupu- 
lously clean;  if  this  is  not  the  case,  a  disagreeable  flavour  may  be  im- 
parted to  the  preparation,  which  flavour  may  disgust  and  prevent  the 
patient  from  partaking  of  the  refreshment  when  brought  to  him  or  her. 
Invalids  notice  flavour  more  than  people  in  health.  It  is  generally 
better  to  cook  in  earthenware,  glass  or  china,  than  in  metal. 

In  Miss  Nightingale's  admirable  "  Notes  on  Nursing,"  she  says:  "You 
cannot  be  too  careful  as  to  quality  in  sick  diet.  A  nurse  should  never  put 
before  a  patient  milk  that  is  sour,  meat  or  soup  that  is  turned,  an  egg  that 
is  bad,  or  vegetables  underdone."  Yet  often,  she  says,  she  has  seen  these 
things  brought  in  to  the  sick,  in  a  state  perfectly  perceptible  to  every 
nose  or  eye  except  the  nurse's.  It  is  here  that  the  clever  nurse  appears — 
she  will  not  bring  the  peccant  article;  but,  not  to  disappoint  the  patient, 
she  will  whip  up  something  else  in  a  few  minutes.  Remember  that 
sick  cookery  should  half  do  the  work  of  your  poor  patient's  weak 
digestion.  She  goes  on  to  caution  nurses  by  saying:  "  Take  care  not 
to  spill  into  your  patient's  saucer;  in  other  words,  take  care  that  the 
outside  bottom  rim  of  his  cup  shall  be  quite  dry  and  clean.  If  every 
time  he  lifts  his  cup  to  his  lips  he  has  to  carry  the  saucer  with  it,  or 
else  to  drop  the  liquid  upon  and  to  soil  his  sheet,  or  bedgown  or  pillow, 
or,  if  he  is  sitting  up,  his  dress,  you  have  no  idea  what  a  difference  this 
minute  want  of  care  on  your  part  makes  to  his  comfort,  and  even  to 
his  willingness  for  food." 

Crumbs  are  great  enemies  to  the  patient's  comfort,  and  even  with  the 


INVALID  COOKERY  1347 

greatest  care  they  are  difficult  to  keep  out  of  the  bed.  Tuck  a  table- 
napkin  carefully  round  the  patient's  shoulders  before  each  time  of 
feeding. 

If  a  feeding  cup  is  used,  scald  it  carefully  and  keep  it  quite  clean. 
Warm  it  before  using  it  for  any  hot  food.  Keep  one  for  milk,  and  lay 
that  in  water.  Have  a  separate  cup  for  beef  tea  or  broth. 

No  cooking  may  be  done  in  the  sick-room. 

In  Acute  Disease,  the  diet  is  often  limited  to  milk  and  beef  tea.  Inex- 
perienced persons  imagine  that  every  liquid  food  is  insufficient  nourish- 
ment, and  that  the  patient  should  be  persuaded  to  take  some  solid. 
So  far  from  this  being  true,  milk  is  the  best  of  all  foods,  the  only  food 
we  could  live  on  for  a  length  of  time  without  admixture  of  anything 
else.  A  patient  who  can  take  milk  has  at  once  a  greater  chance  of 
prolonging  life  or  recovering  health. 

But  there  are  some  persons  who  cannot  take  milk,  in  health  or 
sickness.  They  will  often  find  it  agrees  with  them  better  mixed  with 
limewater,  a  third  or  half  of  water  to  two-thirds  or  half  of  milk.  Soda- 
water  and  milk  is  agreeable  to  some  patients,  and  to  some  boiled  milk 
is  more  digestible,  especially  boiled  milk  hot.  Only  in  rare  cases 
should  the  cream  be  removed.  Whey  has  been  found  useful  when 
every  preparaton  of  fresh  milk  has  been  tried  in  vain.  Koumiss  or 
fermented  milk  is  also  sold  in  considerable  quantities  for  the  use  of 
invalids. 

Sickness  and  Nausea. — If  the  patient  suffers  from  sickness  and  nausea, 
every  food  should  be  given  iced,  or  as  cold  as  possible,  and  in  the 
smallest  quantities,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  slip  a  tiny  piece  of  ice 
into  the  patient's  mouth  immediately  after  taking  food.  Milk  may  be 
kept  on  ice  for  a  long  time,  or,  if  no  ice  is  at  hand,  set  the  jug  in  a  tub 
of  salt  and  water,  or  wrap  a  wet  cloth  round  the  jug  and  stand  it  in  a 
draught  outside  the  door.  The  slightest  souring  is  enough  to  make  milk 
disagree  with  a  patient. 

Cooking  Apparatus. — In  keeping  anything  hot  in  the  sick-room  a 
specially-constructed  cooking  apparatus  is  very  useful.  It  is  a  box 
thickly  padded  with  non-conducting  material,  and  containing  a  double 
tin  receptacle,  the  outer  for  hot  water,  and  the  inner  for  beef  tea,  or 
whatever  has  to  be  cooked  or  kept  hot.  The  tin  is  filled  with  hot  water, 
and  retains  the  heat  for  many  hours  without  evaporation,  or  giving  out 
any  smell. 

Beef  Tea. — Formerly,  beef  tea  was  regarded  as  the  patient's  greatest 
support,  but  now  many  doctors  have  ceased  to  attach  much  importance 
to  it,  largely  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  getting  it  properly  prepared. 
This  difficulty  ought  not  to  exist,  for  it  is  quite  easy  to  make  if  the  few 
simple  rules  set  forth  in  the  following  recipes  are  strictly  adhered  to. 

There  is  a  wide  difference  in  beef  tea  for  invalids  and  that  intended 
for  convalescents,  the  former  being  necessarily  prepared  from  juicy 
meat  and  at  a  low  temperature,  so  as  to  first  draw  out  the  juices  of  the 


1348  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

meat  and  afterwards  prevent  them  coagulating.  A  more  savoury  and 
palatable  preparation  is  the  convalescents'  beef-tea,  usually  made  by 
subjecting  either  shin  or  neck  of  beef  to  a  long,  slow  stewing  process. 
In  the  preparation  of  beef -tea  for  invalids,  juicy  meat,  such  as 
buttock  steaks,  or  top-side  alone  should  be  employed,  for  these  parts 
contain  the  most  albumen  and  other  soluble  matters,  which  are  the 
nourishing  constituents  of  the  meat.  Beef -tea  that  sets  to  a  jelly  when 
cold  contains  a  smaller  percentage  of  these  constituents;  and  more  gela- 
tine, of  which  the  shin  of  beef  has  a  comparatively  large  proportion. 
Although  gelatine  possesses  neither  the  stimulating  nor  nourishing 
properties  of  albumen,  it  has  considerable  value  as  a  food  substance, 
inasmuch  as  it  replaces  albumen  in  many  processes  in  the  human 
economy,  but  it  is  altogether  unsuitable  when  a  concentrated,  nourish- 
ing liquid  food  is  required. 

Albumen,  which  is  the  life-sustaining  element  in  the  meat,  is  very 
like  white  of  egg  in  its  properties.  White  of  egg  will  mix  freely  with 
water,  as  also  will  the  juices  of  the  meat  when  extracted  by  means 
of  cold  water.  This  water  may  be  gently  heated,  and  the  albumen  will 
still  remain  in  solution,  but  when  heated  to  about  120°  or  130°  F.  the 
albumen  coagulates  and  separates  into  brown  particles,  which  are 
strained  out  of  the  beef-tea,  the  almost  valueless  liquid  being  given  to  the 
patient. 

Meat  Juices  and  Extracts. — These  may  be  bought  ready  prepared; 
some  contain  little  more  than  the  salines  and  extractives  of  the  meat; 
others  may  be  regarded  as  a  valuable  stimulant  and  restorative,  easily 
prepared  and  always  at  hand,  but  in  serious  cases  none  of  them  can 
replace  beef-tea  containing  soluble  albumen. 

Fluid  meat  consists  of  lean  meat  liquified  by  artificial  digestion, 
and  in  a  fit  state  for  immediate  absorption  into  the  body.  In  severe 
illness  it  is  a  most  valuable  food,  and  is  also  used  for  nutrient  enemata. 
Dr.  Pavy  recommends  the  following  mixture  when  used  for  this  purpose: 
2  ozs.  of  white  sugar,  6  ozs.  of  mucilage  of  starch  or  arrowroot,  with  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  fluid  meat. 

Beef  peptonoids  and  peptonised  beef-jelly  are  also  most  valuable 
preparations  for  the  sick-room.  Unlike  beef-te'a  and  beef  extracts, 
which  consist  only  of  the  juice  of  the  meat,  more  or  less  perfectly 
extracted,  they  are  the  meat  itself  in  a  fluid  form,  fit  to  be  taken  at 
once  into  the  body  without  any  work  for  the  feeble  digestion  of  the 
invalid. 

Variety  is  an  Essential. — In  sick-room  cookery,  except  in  very 
serious  cases,  veal-tea,  mutton-tea  or  broth,  or  chicken  broth,  should 
occasionally  replace  the  beef-tea  in  order  to  prevent  the  patient  be- 
coming tired  of  it.  Soups  thickened  with  yolk  of  egg  and  cream  are 
very  nourishing,  but  they  are  also  very  rich,  and  should  therefore  be 
given  sparingly  even  when  the  patient  is  convalescent.  Meat  teas, 
soups  and  broths  all  offer  nourishment  in  an  easily  digested  form,  and 


INVALID  COOKERY  1349 

their  restorative  powers  are  very  quickly  felt,  hence  their  value  in  the 
diet  of  the  sick  and  convalescent.  Savoury  jellies  are  more  nourishing 
when  made  from  veal  or  calves'  feet,  for  they  then  contain  not  only 
gelatine,  but  also  other  extractives  of  considerable  dietetic  value. 
When  variety,  and  not  the  amount  of  nourishment  afforded,  is  the 
chief  consideration,  jelly  may  be  more  easily  prepared  from  isinglass 
or  gelatine,  the  purest  forms  of  which  should  alone  be  used  for  the 
purpose. 

Milk  is  undoubtedly  a  more  valuable  food  for  the  sick  than  any  kind 
Df  beef  tea,  juice  or  essence,  for  it  supplies  all  that  is  necessary  to  sustain 
life  during  long  periods  of  illness  or  inactivity.  For  young  children 
it  is  also  a  perfect  food,  but  for  adults  in  health  it  is  necessary  to  add 
other  foods  supplying  more  solid  bulk. 

The  milk,  as  soon  as  possible  after  it  is  drawn  from  the  cow,  should  be 
boiled  and  afterwards  kept  covered  until  required.  For  unfortunately, 
it  is  extremely  susceptible  to  contamination,  and  readily  absorbs  any 
impure  gases  or  matter. 

Eggs  are  a  very  valuable  food,  containing  all  that  is  necessary  for 
life  in  a  most  concentrated  form.  The  white  of  an  egg  is  equally 
nourishing  and  less  rich  than  the  yolk,  and  consequently  may  be  given 
to  a  patient  when  the  yolk  would  disagree.  In  a  fluid  form  they  are 
easily  digested,  also  when  very  lightly  cooked  ;  but  overcooked  in- 
soluble eggs  generally  tax  a  healthy  digestion,  and  should  therefore 
be  rigidly  excluded  from  the  diet  of  the  sick.  This  applies  not  only 
to  eggs  simply  served,  but  also  to  eggs  forming  a  part  of  puddings, 
souffles,  etc. 

Fish,  being  light  and  easily  digested,  plays  an  important  part  in 
invalid  diet.  Whiting,  sole,  flounder  or  plaice  should  be  selected,  as 
these  varieties  contain  a  very  small  percentage  of  oily  matter,  UntU 
the  first  stages  of  convalescence  are  passed,  the  fish  should  be  either 
steamed  or  boiled,  but  afterwards,  when  butter  is  allowed,  broiled  or 
fried  fish  generally  proves  more  palatable. 

Seasonings  and  Flavourings  should  always  be  added  sparingly,  for 
in  sickness  the  organs  of  taste  are  often  in  an  abnormally  sensitive 
condition, 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID 
COOKERY 

CHAPTER    XLV 

Liquid  Foods,  Broths  and  Soups,  Fish  and  Meat  Dishes, 
Jellies,  Puddings,  Beverages,  Peptonized  Foods  and 
Diabetic  Foods. 

3I59._BEEF   TEA   FOR   CONVALESCENTS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  gravy  beef,  i  pint  of  cold  water,  |  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  fat,  shred  the  meat  finely,  as  in  the  following 
recipe,  or  pass  it  through  a  mincing  machine.  Place  it  in  an  earthen- 
ware jar,  add  the  water  and  salt,  and  cover  closely.  Place  the  jar  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  or  in  a  slow  oven,  and  cook  for  3  hours, 
stirring  occasionally.  Strain,  remove  carefully  all  traces  of  grease, 
and  serve. 

Time. — 3  hours.     Average  Cost,  yd. 

3160.— BEEF  TEA  FOR  CONVALESCENTS.    (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  gravy  beef,  i  pint  of  cold  water,  2  slices  of  carrot, 
i  small  slice  of  turnip,  i  slice  of  onion,  i  or  2  sprigs  of  parsley,  i  bay- 
leaf,  4  peppercorns,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  fat,  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  or  pass  it 
through  a  mincing  machine.  Put  the  meat,  water,  vegetables,  and 
flavouring  ingredients  into  a  jar  with  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  cook  in  a 
very  slow  oven  for  3  hours.  Strain,  remove  every  particle  of  grease, 
season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 3  hours.     Average  Cost,  7^d. 

3161.— BEEF  TEA  FOR  INVALIDS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  juicy  beef,  i  pint  of  cold  water,  J  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt* 

1350 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1351 

Method. — Remove  all  fat  and  skin,  cut  the  meat  into  fine  shreds,  place 
it  with  the  salt  and  water  in  a  basin,  and  soak  for  20  minutes.  Turn 
it  into  a  stewpan,  heat  very  gently,  and  stir  slowly  until  the  liquid  turns 
a  rich  red-brown  and  the  meat  becomes  white,  then  strain  through  a 
fine  strainer.  Remove  every  particle  of  grease  by  repeatedly  drawing 
white  blotting  paper  or  tissue  paper  over  the  surface,  and  serve.  Great 
care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  beef-tea  below  simmering  point,  other- 
wise the  albumen  will  harden  and  form  brown  particles.  The  clear 
liquid,  which  alone  can  be  given  in  serious  cases,  will  thus  be  deprived 
of  its  chief  nourishing  constituent,  and  must  therefore  be  regarded  as 
a  stimulant  only. 

Time. — £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

3162.— BEEF  TEA,  RAW. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  lean,  juicy  beef,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water, 
a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Cut  off  all  skin  and  fat,  shred  the  meat  finely,  pour  over  it 
the  water,  add  the  salt,  cover  and  let  it  stand  for  at  least  2  hours. 
When  ready  to  use  strain  into  a  coloured  glass,  and  season  to  taste. 
This  variety  of  beef  tea  is  more  easily  digested  than  any  other,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  albumen  being  contained  in  an  uncooked  and  therefore 
soluble  condition. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  ijd. 

3163.— BEEF  TEA,  WHOLE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  gravy  beef,  i  pt.  of  cold  water,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt. 

Method. — Remove  all  fat,  shred  the  meat  finely,  and  as  soon  as  it  is 
shredded  put  it  into  the  water,  in  which  the  salt  should  be  previously 
dissolved.  Let  it  stand  covered  for  £  an  hour,  then  heat  slowly,  and 
cook  as  gently  as  possible  until  the  liquid  turns  a  rich  reddish-brown,  and 
the  meat  becomes  white.  Strain,  pound  the  meat  thoroughly  in  a 
mortar,  and  pass  it  through  a  wire  sieve.  Stir  the  pounded  meat  into 
the  beef  tea,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — ij  hours.     Average  Cost,  /d. 

3164.— BEEF  TEA  AND  EGG. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  beef  tea,  i  yolk  of  egg,  salt,  toasted  bread. 

Method. — Beef  tea,  veal  tea,  mutton  tea,  or  diluted  beef  essence  may 
be  employed  in  this  preparation.  Beat  the  yolk  of  egg  in  a  teacup, 
season  lightly  with  salt,  and  if  allowed,  add  a  little  pepper.  Heat  the 
beef  tea,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil,  and  pour  it  over  the  yolk  of  egg, 
stirring  briskly  meanwhile.  Serve  with  thin  strips  of  toast. 

Time.— 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d. 


1352       .  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3165.— BEEF  TEA  WITH  OATMEAL. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  good  beef  tea,  i  tablespoonful  of  well-cooked 
oatmeal,  salt  and  pepper,  toasted  bread. 

Method. — The  oatmeal  when  cooked  should  have  the  consistency  of 
thick  porridge.  Heat  the  beef  tea,  stir  in  the  prepared  oatmeal,  season 
to  taste,  and  serve  with  thin  strips  of  toasted  bread. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

3166.— BEEF  TEA  WITH  SAGO  AND  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  beef  tea,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of  water, 
i  oz.  of  sago,  the  yolk  of  i  egg. 

Method. — Blanch  the  sago  carefully,  and  simmer  it  gently  in  the 
water  until  well  cooked.  Add  the  beef  tea  and  cream,  heat  to  140°  F., 
then  pour  in  the  well-beaten  yolk  of  egg,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  until  it  is  sufficiently  cooked,  keeping  the  preparation  at  the 
above-mentioned  low  temperature,  to  avoid  coagulating  the  albumen 
in  the  beef  tea. 

Time. — £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  2d. 

3167.— BEEF  AND  SAGO  BROTH. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  gravy  beef,  i  quart  of  cold  water,  £  an  oz.  of 
fine  sago,  i  yolk  of  egg,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk,  \  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt. 

Method. — Trim  off  all  skin  and  fat,  and  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces. 
Put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  water  and  salt,  cover  closely,  and 
cook  gently  for  3  hours,  skimming  occasionally.  Strain  into  a  basin; 
when  cold  remove  every  particle  of  fat,  then  replace  in  the  stewpan  and 
re-heat.  When  boiling  sprinkle  in  the  sago  and  cook  until  clear, 
stirring  meanwhile.  Beat  the  yolk  of  egg  and  cream  together,  strain 
into  the  soup,  stir  and  cook  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  2  minutes  longer, 
but  take  care  the  preparation  does  not  boil  or  the  egg  may  curdle. 
Season  to  taste,  and  serve  with  thin  strips  of  well-toasted  bread. 

Time. — Altogether  5  or  6  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod. 

3168.— BEEF  ESSENCE. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  lean  juicy  beef,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  off  all  fat  and  skin,  and  place  the  beef  in  a  jar  without 
any  water.  Cover  with  a  close-fitting  lid,  over  which  tie  2  or  3  folds 
of  greased  paper.  Place  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and 
cook  slowly  for  at  least  3  hours.  Strain,  press  all  the  liquid  from  the 
meat,  and  season  to  taste.  This  preparation,  being  highly  concentrated, 
should  be  served  in  small  quantities. 

Time. — 3  hours.     Average  Cost,  is. 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1353 

3169.— BEEF  JUICE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  lean  juicy  beef -steak,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  all  fat,  and  grill  the  steak  quickly  on  both  sides 
over  a  clear  fire  until  slightly  cooked.  Cut  it  into  strips,  press  out  the 
juice  with  a  lemon  squeezer  into  a  hot  cup,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  grill  the  steak,  8  to  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  ;d.  or  Sd. 

3170.— BEEF  TEA  CUSTARD. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  good  beef  tea,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  the  white 
of  i  egg,  salt. 

Method. — Beat  the  yolks  and  white  thoroughly  together,  pour  on  to 
it  the  beef  tea,  and  season  to  taste.  Have  ready  a  well-buttered 
cup,  pour  in  the  preparation,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  stand 
the  cup  in  a  stewpan  containing  a  little  boiling  water.  Steam  very 
gently  for  about  20  minutes,  then  turn  out  carefully.  Serve  either  hot 
or  cold,  or  cut  into  dice,  and  serve  in  broth  or  soup. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  $d.  or  6d. 

3171.— CALF'S  FOOT  BROTH. 

Ingredients. — i  calf's  foot,  3  pints  of  water,  or  equal  parts  of  milk  and 
water,  lemon-rind,  salt,  sugar,  yolks  of  eggs. 

Method. — Stew  the  foot  in  the  water,  or  milk  and  water,  for  3  hours, 
then  strain  into  a  basin.  When  cold,  remove  the  fat,  re-heat  the  broth 
with  2  or  3  strips  of  lemon-rind,  which  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  the 
broth  is  sufficiently  flavoured.  Add  salt  and  sugar  to  taste,  and  to 
each  £  pint  allow  i  yolk  of  egg.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the 
broth  thickens,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  or  it  may  curdle.  Free  it  from 
any  particle  of  fat  and  serve. 

Time. — 6  or  7  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  i£  pints 
of  broth. 

3I72.— CHICKEN  BROTH. 

Ingredients. — i  chicken  or  a  small  fowl,  i  oz.  of  rice,  i  quart  of  water, 
i  carrot,  i  onion  sliced,  i  strip  of  celery  sliced,  2  cloves,  i  small  blade 
of  mace,  finely-chopped  parsley. 

Method. — Place  the  chicken  in  a  stewpan  with  the  water,  vegetables 
and  spices  tied  in  muslin,  simmer  gently  for  2  hours,  then  remove  the 
•n  and  strain  the  liquor.  Cut  the  carrot  into  fancy  shapes,  and 
cut  the  breast  into  dice.  Re-heat  the  broth,  season  to  taste,  add  the 
rice  previously  boiled,  the  chicken  dice,  prepared  carrot  and  parsley, 
and  sr 

Time. — 2^  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  9d.  to  33. 


1354  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3173.— CHICKEN  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — i  chicken  or  small  fowl,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  3  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream,  i  dessertspoonful  of  ground  rice  or  creme  de  riz,  i  small 
onion,  i  small  blade  of  mace,  3  pints  of  cold  water,  salt. 

Method. — Divide  the  chicken  into  small  pieces,  break  the  bones,  put 
both  into  a  stewpan  with  the  water,  add  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
bring  to  the  boil.  Remove  any  scum  there  may  be,  put  in  the  mace  and 
onion,  cover  closely,  and  simmer  gently  for  4  hours,  skimming  occa- 
sionally. Strain  and  put  aside  until  quite  cold,  then  remove  every 
particle  of  fat,  replace  in  the  stewpan,  and  bring  to  boiling  point. 
Mix  the  ground  rice  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  stir  it  into  the 
stock,  and  simmer  gently  for  6  or  7  minutes.  Beat  the  cream  and  yolks 
of  eggs  together,  add  them  to  the  soup,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
for  2  or  3  minutes,  but  the  soup  must  not  boil  or  the  eggs  may  curdle. 
Season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 8  or  9  hours.     Average  Cost,  33.  to  33.  3d. 

3174.— CHICKEN  AND  RICE  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  chicken  stock,  \  a  pint  of  cream,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls of  rice,  salt. 

Method. — Simmer  the  rice  and  stock  together  very  gently  for  i£  hours, 
then  strain  and  return  the  stock  to  the  stewpan.  Add  the  cream, 
season  lightly  with  salt,  and  a  little  pepper  if  allowed,  bring  to  boiling 
point,  and  serve  with  thin  strips  of  toasted  bread. 

Time. — 2^  hours.     Average  Cost,  33.  to  35.  3d. 

3175.— CHICKEN  ESSENCE. 

Ingredients. — i  chicken  or  \  a  fowl,  £  of  a  pint  of  cold  water,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  from  the  bones,  break  the  latter  into  small 
pieces,  and  shred  the  meat  coarsely.  Place  the  bones  at  the  bottom 
of  a  fireproof  earthenware  jar,  lay  the  chicken  meat  on  the  top  of  them, 
sprinkle  lightly  with  salt,  and  add  the  water.  Cover  closely,  stand  the 
jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  or  in  a  cool  oven,  and  cook  gently 
for  at  least  5  hours.  When  cooked,  strain  and  press  out  all  the  liquid 
and  remove  every  particle  of  grease  by  drawing  blotting  or  tissue  paper 
repeatedly  over  the  surface.  Season  to  taste,  and  serve  in  small 
quantities. 

Time. — 5  hours.     Average  Cost,  i  s.  6d.  to  23. 6d. 

3176.— EEL  BROTH. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  eel,  3  pints  of  cold  water,  £  a  small  onion, 
2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley,  i  bay-leaf,  2  cloves,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  clean  and  skin  the  eel,  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces, 
and  put  them  in  a  stewpan.  Add  the  water,  onions,  parsley,  bay- 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1355 

leaf,  cloves,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  gently  for  i£  hours, 
skimming  when  necessary.  Strain  into  a  basin,  let  it  stand  until  cold, 
and  remove  every  particle  of  fat.  Re-heat  in  small  quantities  as 
required. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d. 

3177.— FISH  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  whiting,  plaice,  cod  or  other  white  fish,  i  quart 
of  water,  i  gill  of  milk,  £  a  gill  of  cream,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour, 
2  yolks  of  eggs,  3  slices  of  carrot,  £  a  very  small  onion,  2  or  3  sprigs  of 
parsley,  i  very  small  blade  of  mace,  %  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  fish  and  its  bones  into  small  pieces,  place  it  in  a 
stewpan  with  the  water,  carrot,  onion,  parsley,  mace  and  a  little  salt, 
simmer  gently  for  20  minutes,  then  strain.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock  and  milk,  bring  to  the  boil,  stirring 
meanwhile,  and  simmer  for  4  minutes.  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  and 
cream  together,  strain  them  into  the  soup,  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
for  2  or  3  minutes,  but  do  not  allow  the  soup  to  boil,  or  the  eggs  may 
curdle.  Add  the  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d. 

3178.— LAMB'S  HEAD  BROTH. 

Ingredients. — i  lamb's  head,  3  pints  of  cold  water,  i  oz.  of  pearl 
barley  or  rice,  i  small  onion,  i  small  carrot,  £  a  very  small  turnip, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Split  the  head  in  halves,  wash  it  well,  then  tie  it  together 
with  string.  Place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the  water  and  about  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  bring  to  boiling  point  and  skim  well.  If  pearl  barley 
is  used  blanch  it,  otherwise  it  will  spoil  the  colour  of  the  broth,  and  cut 
the  vegetables  into  tiny  dice.  Simmer  the  broth  very  gently  for  i 
hour,  then  add  the  pearl  barley  or  rice,  and  vegetables,  and  continue 
the  slow  cooking  for  2  hours  longer.  Strain,  skim  well,  season  to  taste, 
and  serve.  If  desirable,  the  vegetables  may  be  omitted.  On  the  other 
hand,  when  meat  and  vegetables  are  allowed,  the  latter  should  not  be 
added  to  the  soup  until  £  an  hour  before  serving;  and  some  of  the  meat 
should  be  cut  into  small  dice  and  served,  with  the  vegetables,  in  the 
soup. 

Time. — 3^  hours.     Average  Cost,  is. 

3179.— MUTTON  BROTH. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  scrag-end  of  mutton,  i  quart  of  water  (cold), 
i  tablespoonful  of  rice,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper. 


1356         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Remove  all  fat,  cut  the  mutton  into  small  joints,  and  put 
it  and  the  water  and  salt  into  a  stewpan.  Bring  to  the  boil,  skim  well, 
then  cover  and  simmer  gently  for  3  hours,  adding  the  rice  about  \  an 
hour  before  serving.  When  ready,  take  out  the  meat  and  bones r 
cut  the  former  into  tiny  dice,  replace  in  the  broth,  add  the  parsley, 
season  to  taste  and  serve.  If  preferred,  the  broth  may  be  strained  and 
simply  served  with  the  chopped  parsley. 

Time. — 3^  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

3180.— MUTTON   BROTH.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  scrag  end  of  the  neck  of  mutton,  i  oz.  of  pearl 
barley,  i  small  carrot,  i  small  onion,  i  strip  of  celery,  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  i  quart  of  water. 

Method. — Trim  the  mutton  into  neat  pieces,  and  remove  all  the  fat, 
cut  the  carrot  and  onion  into  fine  strips,  and  blanch  the  barley. 
Simmer  the  meat  and  vegetables  in  the  water  for  2  hours,  season  lightly 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  pearl  barley  about  \  an  hour  before 
serving.  Place  the  parsley  in  a  soup  tureen,  also  some  neatly  cut 
pieces  of  the  cooked  meat,  pour  the  broth  upon  it,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  pd. 

3181.— MUTTON,  ESSENCE  OF. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  mutton,  i  gill  of  water,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  away  every  particle  of  fat,  shred  the  meat  finely,  and 
place  it  in  a  jar  with  the  cold  water.  Cover  closely,  place  the  jar  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water  or  in  a  cool  oven,  and  cook  gently  for  at 
least  2  hours.  Strain  and  press  all  the  liquid  from  the  meat,  and  add 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  This  preparation  being  highly  concentrated, 
should  be  administered  in  small  quantities. 

Time. — 2%  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod. 

3182.— MUTTON  TEA. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  lean  mutton,  £  a  pint  of  water,  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt. 

Method. — Mutton  tea  is  less  generally  employed  than  beef  tea,  but 
it  is  a  useful  means  of  varying  the  diet,  and  it  is  both  light  and  easily 
digested.  For  invalids  it  should  be  prepared  as  directed  for  Beef  Tea 
for  Invalids  (No.  3161) ;  but  a  more  savoury  and  palatable  preparation 
for  convalescents  may  be  made  by  gently  stewing  the  meat  for  2  or  3 
hours  (see  Beef  Tea  for  Convalescents,  No.  3159). 

Time. — £  hour.     Average  Cost,  $d. 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1357 

3183.—  OXTAIL  SOUP. 

Ingredients.  —  i  oxtail,  2  quarts  of  cold  water,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i 
small  onion,  i  dessertspoonful  of  vermicelli,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Divide  the  oxtail  at  the  joints,  trim  off  all  the  fat,  then 
blanch  and  dry  it  well.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  oxtail, 
turning  it  frequently  that  all  parts  may  be  equally  browned,  then  drain 
off  the  butter.  Add  the  water,  onion,  salt  and  pepper,  bring  to  boiling 
point  and  skim  well,  then  cover  closely  and  simmer  gently  for  4  hours. 
Strain;  when  quite  cold  remove  every  particle  of  fat  and  re-heat  the 
soup.  When  quite  boiling  sprinkle  in  the  vermicelli,  cook  until  clear, 
then,  if  allowed,  add  some  of  the  nicest  pieces  of  the  tail,  season  to 
taste,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time.  —  8  or  9  hours.     Average  Cost,  2S.  jd.  to  2s.  oxL 

3184.—  OYSTER  SOUP. 

Ingredients.—  i  whiting,  6  sauce  oysters,  i  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of 
water,  3  slices  of  carrot,  £  a  very  small  onion,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley, 
i  bay-leaf,  i  small  blade  of  mace,  6  peppercorns.  For  the  liaison: 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  yolk  of  egg,  i  gill  of  cream,  lemon-juice, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Cut  the  whiting,  with  its  bone,  into  small  pieces,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  the  milk,  water,  carrot,  onion,  parsley,  bay-leaf, 
mace,  peppercorns  and  a  little  salt,  and  simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour. 
Meanwhile  blanch  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  then  strain  and  add 
it,  with  the  beards,  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  and  cut  the  oysters 
in  quarters  and  put  them  aside  until  wanted.  Melt  the  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  strained  fish  stock,  stir  until  boiling, 
and  cook  for  3  or  4  minutes.  Beat  the  yolk  of  egg  and  cream  well 
together,  strain  into  the  soup,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  taking  care  that  the  soup  does  not  boil.  Add  the  prepared 
•  rs,  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time.  —  %  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  iod. 


3185.—  TAPIOCA  CREAM  SOUP. 

Ingredients.  —  i  pint  of  chicken  or  veal  broth,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  J  of  a 
pint  of  cream,  i  tablespoonful  of  crushed  tapioca,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method.  —  Bring  the  broth  to  boiling  point,  sprinkle  in  the  tapioca 
and  simmer  gently  until  quite  clear.  Beat  the  yolk  of  egg  and  cream 
well  together,  strain  into  the  soup,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for 
2  or  3  minutes  to  cook  the  egg,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  or  it  will  curdle. 
Season  to  id  serve. 

Time.—  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  Qd. 


1358  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

/.;,^,,  .,„„;,     Fish 

3186.— CUTLETS  OF  COD. 

Ingredients. — Thin  slices  of  cod,  lemon-juice,  brown  bread,  butter. 

Method. — Divide  each  slice  of  cod  into  small  cutlets,  place  them  on  a 
greased  baking-tin,  and  sprinkle  them  lightly  with  salt,  pepper  and 
lemon-juice.  Cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  about  10  minutes.  Serve  the  fish  with  slices  of  lemon,  the 
liquor  that  has  come  from  it  in  cooking,  also  thin  slices  of  brown 
buttered  bread. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d.  per  Ib. 

3187.— FISH  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  cooked  fish,  2  ozs.  of  mashed  potatoes, 
£  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  yolk  of  egg,  pepper  and  salt,  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
frying  fat. 

Method. — Remove  all  skin  and  bone  and  chop  the  fish  finely.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  fish  and  potato,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  and  stir  in  the  yolk  of  egg.  Cook  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture 
adheres,  forming  a  ball,  then  turn  on  to  a  plate.  When  cold,  form 
into  cakes,  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  coat  carefully  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Drain  well,  and  serve  on  a  dish  paper 
garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

3188.— FISH  EGGS  (SCRAMBLED). 

Ingredients. — 3  eggs,  3  ozs.  of  finely-flaked  cooked  white  fish,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream  or  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  buttered 
toast. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  cream  or  milk,  and  season  to  taste. 
Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  fish,  and  let  it  become  thor- 
oughly hot,  then  add  the  eggs.  Cook  slowly  and  stir  continuously 
until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken,  then  pile  it  on  the  hot  toast,  and 
serve  at  once. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  9d.     Sufficient  for  2  persons. 

3189.— FISH  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — -J-  a  Ib.  of  cooked  fish,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  mashed  potato,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  i  egg,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones  and  skin  from  the  fish,  and  break  it 
into  fine  flakes.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  potato,  fish, 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1359 

well-beaten  egg,  milk  and  parsley,  season  to  taste,  and  stir  the  mixture 
over  the  fire  for  3  or  4  minutes.  Have  ready  a  well-buttered  mould  or 
pie-dish,  pour  in  the  mixture,  o,nd  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about 
\  an  hour.  Turn  out  on  to  a  dish  paper,  garnish  with  parsley  and  lemon, 
and  serve. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  9d. 

3190.— FISH  PUDDING.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  fish,  either  cooked  or  uncooked,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  breadcrumbs,  i  egg,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  £  a 
gill  of  milk,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Remove  all  skin  and  bone,  separate  the  fish  into  flakes, 
and  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar.  Add  the  butter  gradually,  and  when 
quite  smooth  mix  in  the  egg,  milk,  parsley  and  breadcrumbs.  Season 
to  taste,  turn  into  a  well-greased  pudding  basin  or  mould,  and  cover 
with  a  buttered  paper.  Place  the  mould  or  basin  in  a  saucepan  con- 
taining boiling  water,  cover  closely,  and  steam  very  gently  for  about 
i  hour.  Turn  out  carefully  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  with  a  good  white 
sauce. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d.  to  is. 

3191.— FISH    QUENELLES. 

(Fr. — Quenelles  de  Poisson.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  whiting  or  other  white  fish,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  egg,  i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  i  tablespoonful  of  milk,  pepper 
and  salt. 

Method.— Mix  the  butter,  milk,  and  breadcrumbs  well  together  in 
a  stewpan  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  the  mixture  cool.  Pound 
the  fish  in  a  mortar,  add  the  bread  mixture  and  the  egg,  and,  when  well 
mixed,  pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve.  Form  into  quenelles  (see 
Quenelles  of  Veal,  No.  757),  poach  for  10  minutes  in  boiling  stock  or 
milk,  then  strain  and  serve  with  white  sauce  poured  over  and  round. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d.  or  7d.    Sufficient  for  4  or  5  quenelles. 

3192.— FISH  SOUFFLE.     (Fr.— Souffle  de  Poisson.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  white  fish  freed  from  skin  and  bone,  2  ozs.  of 
flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  3  eggs,  i  gill  of  fish  stock  or  milk,  £  a  gill  of 
cream. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk  or  stock, 
cook  thoroughly,  then  turn  the  panada  on  to  a  plate  to  cool.  Pound 
the  fish  in  a  mortar,  adding  gradually  the  panada,  i  whole  egg,  and  2 
yolks  of  eggs.  Season  to  taste,  pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve, 
then  stir  in  the  cream,  and  the  whites  of  eggs  previously  whisked 
to  a  stiff  froth.  Have  ready  a  well-buttered  souffle-tin,  provided  with 


1360  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

a  band  of  biittered  paper  to  support  the  souffle  when  it  rises  above  the 
level  of  the  tin,  pour  in  the  preparation,  and  steam  gently  from  45  to 
50  minutes.     Serve  with  a  good  fish  sauce  (see  Sauces). 
Time. — i  J  hours.     Average  Cost,   is.  to  is.  3d. 

3193.— FISH  SOUFFLE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  whiting,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs, 
£  a  gill  of  milk  or  water,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Free  the  fish  from  skin  and  bone.  Melt  the  butter,  stir 
in  the  flour,  add  the  milk,  and  cook  until  the  panada  leaves  the  sides 
of  the  pan  quite  clean.  Pound  the  fish,  panada  and  yolks  of  the  eggs 
well  together,  season  to  taste,  and  pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Beat  the  eggs  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  into  the  preparation, 
then  turn  it  into  a  souffle-tin  prepared  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  and  steam  gently  from  35  to  40  minutes.  If  preferred,  the 
mixture  may  be  steamed  for  15  minutes  in  dariol  moulds.  Serve 
with  a  good  white  sauce  poured  over  or  round. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

3194.— FRICASSEE  OF  FISH. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  white  fish,  £  of  a  pint  of  cold  water,  i  small 
blade  of  mace,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley,  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg. 
For  the  sauce:  |-  an  oz.  of  butter,  %  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  gill  of  fish  stock, 
4-  a  gill  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice. 

Method. — Simmer  the  fish  with  the  mace,  parsley,  nutmeg,  and  a 
little  salt  in  the  water  until  three-quarters  cooked,  then  strain  off  the 
liquor  and  break  the  fish  into  flakes.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
stir  in  the  flour,  add  i  gill  of  the  fish  liquor  and  the  milk,  and  boil 
for  3  or  4  minutes.  Season  to  taste,  add  the  lemon-juice  and  fish, 
make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve.  Cooked  fish  may  be  used,  in  which 
case  the  fish  stock  should  be  prepared  from  the  bones  and  skin. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d. 

3195.—  OYSTERS,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — 12  oysters,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  yolk  of 
egg,  £  a  gill  of  milk  (about),  %  of  a  gill  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  a  small  blade  of  mace,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Blanch  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  then  strain  and  add 
to  it  enough  milk  to  increase  the  quantity  to  £  a  pint.  Melt  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  mace,  mixed  liquor  and  milk, 
and  boil  from  2  or  3  minutes.  Beat  the  cream  and  yolk  of  egg  well 
together,  strain  them  into  the  sauce,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
for  3  or  4  minutes  to  cook  the  egg,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  or  it  will  curdle. 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1361 

Beard  the  oysters,  cut  them  into  halves  or  quarters,  and  stir  them 
into  the  sauce.  Season  to  taste,  add  the  lemon-juice,  remove  the 
mace,  and  serve. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2S. 

3196.     SOLE,  GRILLED. 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  sole,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  sole,  and  wipe  it  thoroughly  with  a  damp  cloth. 
Rub  it  over  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  coat  it  completely  with 
liquid  butter.  Place  the  sole  on  a  scrupulously  clean  well-buttered  grill, 
and  cook  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  turning  it  occasionally  during 
the  process.  Serve  on  a  dish  paper,  garnish  with  parsley  and  lemon. 
If  allowed,  a  good  white  or  other  suitable  sauce  may  accompany  the 
dish. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,   is.   to   is.  6d. 

3197.— SOLE,  FRIED  FILLETED. 

Ingredients. — i  sole,  i  egg,  breadcrumbs,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour, 
salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Loosen  the  skin  all  round  the  sole,  then  take  firmly  hold 
of  it  at  the  tail  and  tear  it  upwards  towards  the  head.  To  fillet,  make 
an  incision  down  the  centre  of  the  backbone  and  round  the  fins  with  a 
sharp  knife,  insert  the  knife  in  the  centre  slit,  and  with  short  sharp 
strokes  remove  each  fillet,  keeping  the  knife  pressed  close  to  the  bone 
during  the  process.  Season  the  flour  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  dip 
in  each  fillet  to  dry  and  season  it.  Coat  each  fillet  carefully  with  egg 
and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  golden-brown.  Drain  well, 
and  serve  on  a  dish  paper,  garnished  with  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon. 
Plaice  is  filleted  in  the  same  way,  except  that  the  upper  white  skin 
is  left  on  the  fish,  but  the  under  dark  skin  should  be  removed. 

Time. — To  fry  the  fish,  about  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2S. 
perlb. 

3198.— SOLE,  SOUCHET  OF. 

Ingredients. — i  sole,  £  a  small  carrot,  £  of  a  finely-chopped  shallot, 
2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley,  6  peppercorns,  i  blade  of  mace,  salt,  lemon- 
juice,  £  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Skin  and  fillet  the  sole,  and  roll  up  the  fillets  with  the  skin 
side  of  the  fish  inside  the  roll.  Simmer  the  peppercorns,  mace  and 
parsley  in  the  water  for  10  minutes,  then  strain  and  return  it  to  the 
stcwpan.  Add  the  shallot  and  the  carrot,  cut  into  the  finest  shreds, 
and  cook  gently  until  the  vegetables  are  tender.  Put  in  the  prepared 
fish,  add  salt  to  taste,  and  a  little  pepper,  if  necessary.  Simmer  gently 
for  about  10  minutes,  then  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  and  serve. 

Time.— J  an  hour.     Average  Cost,   is.  3d.  to  is.  od. 


1362  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3199.— SOLE,   STEAMED.        (See  Whiting,    Steamed, 
No.  3202.) 

3200.— WHITING  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — i  whiting,  which  should  weigh  4  ozs.  when  freed  from 
skin  and  bone,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  yolk  of  egg,  £  a  gill  of 
milk,  \  a  gill  of  cream,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk, 
cook  until  the  panada  leaves  the  sides  of  the  pan  and  forms  a  com- 
pact mass  round  the  bowl  of  the  spoon,  then  turn  on  to  a  plate  to  cool. 
Pound  the  fish  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  the  panada,  egg,  and  a 
little  seasoning,  and  pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve.  Whip  the 
cream  slightly,  stir  it  lightly  into  the  preparation,  which  afterwards 
turn  into  a  well-buttered  souffle  mould.  Cover  with  a  buttered  paper, 
steam  gently  from  40  to  45  minutes,  then  turn  out  and  serve,  either  plain 
or  with  a  white  fish  sauce  poured  over  and  round. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d. 

3201.— WHITING,  BOILED. 

Ingredients. — i  whiting,  i  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar  or  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  skin  and  truss  the  whiting  with  its  tail  in  its 
mouth.  Have  ready  a  stewpan  containing  just  enough  hot,  but  not 
boiling  water,  to  barely  cover  the  fish,  add  the  vinegar  or  lemon-juice 
and  the  salt,  put  in  the  whiting,  and  cook  very  gently  for  7  or  8  minutes, 
keeping  the  water  just  below  simmering  point.  Observe  the  cracking 
of  the  skin,  which  is  a  sure  indication  that  the  fish  is  sufficiently  cooked. 
Drain  well,  and  serve  on  a  folded  serviette  garnished  with  parsley 
and  slices  of  lemon.  If  allowed,  parsley  or  white  sauce  should  accom- 
pany the  dish.  A  sole  may  be  boiled  in  the  same  way,  but  a  small 
fish  kettle  should  be  used  and  the  sole  laid  flat  upon  the  strainer. 

Time. — 7  or  8  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4d. 

3202.— WHITING,  STEAMED. 

Ingredients. — i  whiting,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  lemon- 
juice,  i  gill  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Skin  the  whiting  and  truss  it  with  its  tail  in  its  mouth. 
Place  it  in  a  well-buttered  soup  plate,  sprinkle  it  lightly  with  salt, 
pepper  and  lemon-juice,  and  cover  with  a  buttered  paper.  Have  ready 
a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water,  place  the  plate1  on  the  top  of  it, 
and  cover  with  another  plate  or  the  lid  of  the  saucepan.  Cook  from 
30  to  35  minutes,  turning  the  fish  once  during  the  process.  Blend  the 
flour  and  butter,  add  the  milk,  stir  till  boiling,  and  cook  for  about  10 
minutes.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  lemon-juice  to  taste, 
pour  over  the  whiting,  and  serve. 

Time.— 35  minutes.     Average  Cost, 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1363 


Meat    Dishes 


3203.— BARLEY  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  raw  chicken  or  lean  veal,  £  an  oz.  of  pearl 
barley,  £  a  pint  of  cold  water,  £  a  gill  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Shred  the  chicken-meat  or  veal  finely  or  pass  it  through  a 
mincing  machine.  Cover  the  barley  with  cold  water,  boil  for  2  or 
3  minutes,  then  strain.  Replace  the  barley  in  the  stewpan,  add  the 
prepared  meat,  water  and  a  little  salt,  and  cook  as  gently  as 
possible  from  if  to  2  hours.  Strain,  pound  the  meat  and  barley  in  a 
mortar  until  smooth,  moistening  it  meanwhile  with  a  little  of  the  liquor 
in  which  it  was  cooked,  and  rub  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Add  the  cream 
slightly  whipped,  season  to  taste,  and  either  serve  cold,  or  re-heat  a 
little  as  required. 

Time. — 2j  hours.     Average  Cost,  9d.,  when  veal  is  used. 

3204.— BRAISED  NECK  OF  LAMB. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  the  best  end  neck  of  lamb,  I  carrot,  £  a  turnip, 

1  onion,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Saw  off  the  chine  bone,  saw  the  rib  bones  across,  and 
remove  the  pieces  at  the  thin  end  by  means  of  a  sharp  knife.  Trim 
off  the  skin  and  the  greater  part  of  the  fat,  and  fold  the  part  from 
which  the  bones  were  removed  underneath  to  form  a  compact  shape. 
Prepare  the  vegetables,  cut  them  into  thick  slices,  arrange  them  in  a 
close  layer  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  and  add  the  stock.  Place 
the  lamb  on  the  top  of  the  vegetables,  cover  with  a  buttered  paper, 
put  on  the  lid,  and  cook  gently  from  2  to  2\  hours.  Crisp  the  outside 
in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve  with  good  gravy  or  brown  sauce  (see 
Gravies  and  Sauces). 

Time. — 3  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d. 

3205.— CALF'S  FOOT,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — i  calf's  foot,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  02.  of  flour,  £  a  gill  of 
cream,  i  pint  of  water,  i  small  onion  sliced,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley, 

2  cloves,  i  small  blade  of  mace,  a  little  finely-chopped  parsley. 

Method. — Wash  and  blanch  the  foot;  put  it  into  the  stewpan  with  the 
spices  and  vegetables,  and  stew  gently  for  3  hours,  adding  more  water 
if  much  evaporation  occurs.  When  done,  remove  the  bones,  cut  the 
meat  into  neat  pieces,  and  keep  them  hot  in  a  little  of  the  stock.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  strain  in  the  stock,  boil  gently 


1364  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

until  the  sauce  becomes  thick  and  smooth,  then  season  carefully  and 
stir  in  the  cream.     Arrange  the  calf's  foot  neatly  on  a  hot  dish,  pour 
the  sauce  over,  sprinkle  with  parsley,  and  serve. 
Time. — 3^  hours.     Average  Cost,    is.  4d.  to  is.  7d. 

3206.— CHICKEN  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  raw  chicken,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  white  of  egg, 
i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  \  a  gill  of  cream,  %  a  gill  of  milk, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Scrape  the  meat  or  pass  it  through  a  mincing  machine, 
and  pound  in  a  mortar  until  smooth.  Warm  the  milk,  butter  and  bread- 
crumbs together,  and  add  them  gradually  to  the  chicken-meat,  pound- 
ing well  meanwhile.  Pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve,  season  to 
taste,  add  the  cream  slightly  beaten,  and  lastly  the  stiffly-whisked 
white  of  egg.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  mould  or  basin,  and  steam 
gently  from  30  to  40  minutes.  If  allowed,  serve  with  a  good  white 
sauce.  If  preferred,  veal  may  be  used  instead  of  chicken. 

Time. — i \  hours.     Average  Cost,   is.  6d. 

3207.— CHICKEN  CUSTARD. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  raw  chicken,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  i  white  of  egg, 
i  gill  of  stock  or  milk,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Shred  the  raw  chicken  finely  or  pass  it  through  a  mincing 
machine,  then  pound  it  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  the  stock 
or  milk  gradually,  and  press  it  through  a  fine  sieve.  Beat  yolks  and 
white  of  egg  well  together,  stir  it  into  the  chicken  puree,  and  add 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Pour  into  well-greased  china  ramakin  cases, 
cover  with  buttered  paper,  and  steam  very  gently  until  firm.  If 
allowed,  serve  with  good  white  sauce. 

Time. — 40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  to  2S. 

3208.— CHICKEN  PANADA. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  raw  chicken,  £  a  gill  of  cream,  pepper  and 
salt. 

Method. — Pass  the  chicken  meat  twice  through  a  mincing  machine, 
then  weigh  it  and  place  it  in  a  well-buttered  jar.  Cover  closely  with 
buttered  paper,  stand  the  jar  in  a  saucepan,  surround  it  to  half  its 
depth  with  boiling  water,  and  cook  very  gently  for  i  hour.  When 
ready,  pound  in  a  mortar  until  smooth,  adding  the  liquor  gradually, 
rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  stir  in  the  cream  previously  whipped. 
Season  to  taste,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold  on  strips  of  thin  crisp  toast. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2S, 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1365 

3209.— CHICKEN  SOUFFLE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  raw  chicken,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  whole  egg, 
£  of  a  pint  of  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Scrape  the  raw  chicken  into  fine  shreds  or  pass  it  through 
a  mincing  machine.  Pound  well  in  a  mortar,  adding  the  egg  and 
butter  gradually,  pass  the  mixture  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  season  to 
taste  Whip  the  cream  slightly  and  the  white  of  egg  stiffly,  and  stir 
both  as  lightly  as  possible  into  the  chicken  preparation.  Have  ready 
a  well-buttered  souffle  mould,  turn  in  the  mixture,  cover  with  a  buttered 
paper,  and  steam  very  gently  from  40  to  45  minutes.  Turn  out  and 
serve  with  a  good  white  sauce  poured  over  and  round. 

Time. — ij  hours.     Average  Cost,   35.  6d. 

3210.— CHICKEN,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — i  chicken,  i  yolk  of  egg,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  milk, 
£  a  pint  of  water,  i  strip  of  celery,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  chicken  into  small  joints,  place  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  add  the  water  (boiling),  milk,  celery  and  a  little  salt,  cover  closely, 
and  simmer  gently  for  2  hours.  About  1 5  minutes  before  serving  mix 
the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  add  it  to  the  contents  of  the 
stewpan,  stir  until  boiling,  and  simmer  gently  for  6  or  7  minutes. 
Beat  the  yolk  of  egg,  pour  over  it  gradually  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
liquor  from  the  stewpan,  and  when  well  mixed  add  it  to  the  contents 
of  the  stewpan.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  3  or  4  minutes  to  cook 
the  egg,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  25.  9d. 

3211.— CHICKEN,  FILLET  OF,  STEAMED. 

Ingredients. — The  breast  or  wings  of  i  chicken,  butter,  pepper  and 
salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  chicken  carefully  from  the  bone,  sprinkle 
slightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  in  a  well-buttered  soup  plate. 
Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  put  the  plate  on  the  top  of 
it,  cover  with  another  plate  or  basin,  and  cook  very  gently  for  about 
an  hour.  Serve  with  its  own  gravy. 

Time.— J  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  uncertain. 

3212.— CHICKEN   OR   GAME,    FILLET  OF,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — The  breast  or  wings  of  i  chicken,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones  carefully,  keeping  the  fillets  as  intact 
as  possible,  sprinkle  them  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  them 
on  a  buttered  baking-tin.  Cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  a 
mock-rate  oven  from  15  to  20  minutes.  If  liked  and  allowed  serve, 
with  a  little  cooked  spinach  and  good  white  sauce. 

Time.  -2O  minutes.     Average  Cost,  uncertain. 


1366  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3213.— CHICKEN  OR  GAME,  FILLET  OF,  GRILLED. 

Ingredients. — The  breast  or  wings  of  i  raw  chicken,  butter,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  bones  with  a  sharp  knife,  keeping  the  fillets 
as  intact  as  possible.  Season  them  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  wrap 
them  separately  in  well-buttered  white  paper,  and  grill  over  or  in 
front  of  a  clear  fire.  Turn  2  or  3  times  during  the  process,  which 
should  occupy  from  10  to  12  minutes.  Serve  plainly  or  with  a  little 
Maitre  d'Hotel  butter,  or  any  sauce  liked  or  allowed. 

Time. — 12  minutes.     Average  Cost,  uncertain. 

3214.     CHOP,  STEAMED. 

Ingredients. — i  lamb  or  mutton  chop,  i  very  small  finely-chopped 
onion,  £  of  a  pint  of  mutton  broth  or  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  rice, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  off  all  the  fat,  place  the  chop  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
broth  or  water,  onion  and  a  little  salt.  Cover  closely,  and  cook  gently 
for  £  an  hour,  then  add  the  rice  and  continue  the  slow  cooking  for  i 
hour  longer.  Serve  with  the  rice  and  gravy. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

Note. — For  other  methods  of  preparing  mutton  chops  and  cutlets,  see 
Recipes  for  Cooking  Lamb  and  Mutton. 

3215.— CODDLED  EGG. 

Ingredients. — i  new-laid  egg. 

Method. — Place  the  egg  in  boiling  water,  put  on  the  lid,  and  let  the 
stewpan  stand  for  7  or  8  minutes  where  the  water  will  keep  hot  without 
simmering.  An  egg  cooked  in  this  manner  is  more  easily  digested  than 
when  boiled  in  the  ordinary  way. 

Time. — 7  or  8  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

3216.— CUTLET  GRILLED. 

Ingredients. — i  cutlet,  i  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  cutlet,  brush  it  over  on  both  sides  with  liquid 
butter,  and  grill  it  over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  from  7  to  8  minutes, 
turning  it  2  or  3  times  during  the  process.  The  cutlet  should  be  brushed 
over  with  butter  each  time  it  is  turned;  and  if  much  butter  is  liked 
it  may  be  served  with  a  small  pat,  which  may  be  varied  by  mixing 
with  it  a  little  chopped  parsley,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  and  a  few 
drops  of  lemon-juice. 

Time. — 7  or  8  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

3217.— CUTLET  STEAMED. 

Ingredients. — i  lamb  or  mutton  cutlet,  butter,  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  off  all  the  fat,  place  the  cutlet  in  a  well-buttered  soup 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1367 

plate,  and  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  with  another 
plate,  place  on  the  top  of  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  for 
about  45  minutes,  turning  it  once  or  twice  during  the  process.  Serve 
with  its  own  gravy  and  any  kind  of  vegetable  that  is  liked  by  the 
patient  and  allowed  by  the  doctor. 
Time. — 45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d. 

3218.— CUTLET  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — i  cutlet,  i  oz.  of  rice,  i  slice  of  onion,  i  yolk  of  egg, 
|  a  pint  of  water,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  rice  in  the  water  until  tender,  then  strain  and  re- 
turn the  water  to  the  stewpan.  Add  the.  cutlet  neatly  trimmed,  the 
onion  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  very  gently  until  the  cutlet 
is  tender.  Remove  the  cutlet  and  keep  it  hot;  to  the  contents  of  the 
stewpan  add  the  rice  and  yolk  of  egg,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire 
until  the  mixture  thickens.  Season  to  taste,  take  away  the  onion, 
pour  over  and  around  the  cutlet,  and  serve.  If  vegetable  flavouring 
is  not  allowed,  the  onion  may  be  omitted. 

Time. — £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

3219.— FRICASSEE  OF  CHICKEN. 

Ingredients. —  i  chicken,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  pint  of  chicken 
stock,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  2  yolks 
of  eggs,  i  very  small  onion,  2  or  3  thin  slices  of  carrot,  2  or  3  sprigs 
of  parsley,  i  bay-leaf,  i  small  blade  of  mace,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  chicken  into  neat  joints,  place  them  with  the  bones 
and  trimmings  in  a  stewpan,  and  cover  with  boiling  water.  Bring  slowly 
to  boiling  point,  skim  if  necessary,  add  the  onion,  carrot,  parsley, 
bay-leaf,  mace  and  a  little  salt,  and  cook  gently  for  £  an  hour.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  i  pint  of  the  strained 
liquor  in  which  the  chicken  was  cooked,  and  simmer  gently  for  10 
minutes.  Beat  together  the  yolk  of  egg  and  cream,  stir  them  into  the 
sauce,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  season  to  taste.  Stir  gently  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  to  cook  the  egg,  then  put  in  the  pieces 
of  chicken,  make  them  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  strained 
over.  Cooked  chicken  may  be  utilized,  and  the  sauce  made  of  white 
stock  or  milk. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,   35.  6d. 

3220.— MINCED  RAW  CHICKEN. 

Ingredients. — £  a  raw  chicken,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour, 
i  yolk  of  egg,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream, 
i  small  blade  of  mace,  i  thin  small  strip  of  lemon-rind,  thin  toasted 
bread,  pepper  and  salt. 


1368  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Cut  the  raw  chicken  into  small  dice,  fry  lightly  in  the 
butter,  then  sprinkle  in  the  flour  and  cook  for  3  or  4  minutes  without 
browning.  Add  the  stock,  stir  until  boiling,  then  put  in  the  mace, 
lemon-rind,  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  from 
i  to  i£  hours.  Beat  the  yolk  of  egg  and  cream  together,  add  them 
to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  2  or 
3  minutes  to  cook  the  egg,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  or  it  will  curdle.  Remove 
the  mace  and  lemon-rind,  season  to  taste,  and  serve  garnished  with 
sippets  of  dry  toast. 

Time. — ij  hours.     Average  Cost,  2 s. 

3221.— MINCE    OF  COOKED    CHICKEN  OR  GAME. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  cooked  chicken  or  game,  i  oz.  of  butter,  a 
small  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  i  yolk  of  egg,  i-^  gills  of  stock  or  milk,  i 
tablespoonful  of  cream,  i  bay-leaf,  or  a  fine  strip  of  lemon-rind,  nut- 
meg, salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  all  skin  and  bone,  cut  the  chicken  or  game  into 
very  small  dice,  and  simmer  the  bones,  trimmings  and  bay-leaf  in  a 
little  water  for  at  least  i  hour.  Strain;  if  necessary  add  milk  to  make 
up  the  i±  gills,  or,  if  more  convenient,  use  milk  entirely.  Melt  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock,  and  boil  for  10  minutes. 
Add  the  prepared  chicken;  when  thoroughly  hot  stir  in  the  cream  and 
yolk  of  egg  previously  beaten  together,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  2  or  3  minutes 
to  cook  the  egg,  then  serve. 

Time. — 10  minutes,  after  the  stock  is  made.    Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

3222.— MINCE  OF  FRESH  MUTTON. 

Ingredients. — 6  oz.  of  lean  mutton,  ^  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock 
or  water,  salt  and  pepper,  toasted  bread. 

Method. — Select  tender  juicy  meat,  trim  off  all  the  fat,  and  cut  the 
lean  into  tiny  dice.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion  lightly, 
add  the  meat  and  cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes,  browning  it  slightly. 
Stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer 
very  gently  until  tender  (about  \  an  hour).  Serve  garnished  with 
triangles  of  thin  toasted  bread. 

Time. — 40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

3223.— QUENELLES  OF  VEAL. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  fillet  of  veal,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
i  egg,  i  gill  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the 
Stock,  and  boil  until  the  panada  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan  clean, 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1369 

stirring  vigorously  meanwhile.  Turn  the  panada  on  to  a  plate  to  cool, 
and  meanwhile  shred  the  meat  and  pass  it  2  or  3  times  through  a 
mincing  machine.  Pound  the  meat,  panada  and  egg  in  a  mortar 
until  smooth,  season  to  taste,  and  pass  it  through  a  wire  sieve.  Shape 
the  quenelles  in  spoons  (see  Recipe  No.  757),  or  fill  small,  well-buttered 
quenelle  moulds  with  the  mixture.  Poach  until  firm,  about  20 
minutes,  and  serve  with  good  white  sauce. 
Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod. 

3224.— RABBIT,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — i  young  rabbit,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  pint  of 
water,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  i  small  onion,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley,  2  cloves, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  wipe  and  joint  the  rabbit,  put  it  into  the  stewpan  with 
water  (cold),  onion  sliced,  parsley,  cloves,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  boil 
up,  skim,  and  stew  gently  until  tender.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk  and  £  a  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  the 
rabbit  was  cooked,  and  boil  for  3  minutes.  Season  to  taste  and  pour 
over  the  rabbit,  which  should  be  piled  high  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,   is.  6d. 

3225.— RAW  BEEF  BALLS. 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  ozs.  of  raw  juicy  steak,  a  little  cream  or  strong 
beef  tea,  butter. 

Method. — Scrape  the  meat  into  tiny  fragments  with  a  sharp  knife, 
and  press  it  through  a  wire  sieve.  Mix  with  it  about  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
cream  or  strong  beef  tea,  then  form  into  balls  the  size  of  a  very  small 
Spanish  nut.  Rub  the  bottom  of  a  sautepan  or  stewpan  slightly  with 
butter,  make  the  pan  hot,  put  in  the  balls,  and  move  them  about  for  a 
few  seconds  with  a  spoon  until  the  colour  is  slightly  changed,  but 
leaving  the  inside  absolutely  raw.  Serve  with  beef  tea  or  soup. 

Time. — £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  steak,  is.2d.  to  is.  4d.  per  Ib. 

3226.— RAW  BEEF  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  ozs.  of  raw  juicy  steak,  thin  slices  of  bread  and 
butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Scrape  the  meat  finely,  rub  it  through  a  wire  sieve,  and 

season  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.     Spread  it  on  thin  bread  and 

butter,  and  place  another  piece  on  the  top.     Cut  into  dainty  squares 

and  serve.     If  preferred,  the  pepper  and  salt  may  be  omitted,  and  the 

preparation,  when  spread  on  the  bread,  plentifully  dredged  with 

,ir.     This  entirely  masks  the  flavour  of  the  meat. 
Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  steak,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d.  per  Ib. 


1370  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3227.— SWEETBREAD,  FRIED. 

Ingredients. — i  calf's  heart  sweetbread,  stock,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg, 
breadcrumbs,  parsley. 

Method. — Blanch  the  sweetbread;  when  cold  remove  it  from  the 
water,  and  trim  away  all  gristle  and  fat.  Put  it  into  a  stewpan  with 
as  much  well-flavoured  stock  as  will  just  cover  it,  and  simmer  gently 
for  about  £  an  hour.  Press  between  2  plates  until  cold,  then  cut  it 
into  slices,  coat  them  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  lightly  in 
hot  butter.  Or,  if  preferred,  the  slices  may  be  fried  in  boiling  fat. 
Drain  well,  and  serve  on  a  dish  paper  garnished  with  crisply-fried 
parsley. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  45.  6d.  to  73.  6d. 

Note. — For  other  methods  of  preparing  calves'  and  lambs'  sweetbread,  see 
chapters  on  Veal  and  Lamb. 

3228.— TRIPE,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  tripe,  %  a  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  finely- 
chopped  onion,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Cover  the  tripe  with  cold  water,  bring  it  to  boil,  drain 
well,  and  cut  into  i-inch  squares.  Replace  it  in  the  stewpan,  add  the 
milk,  onion,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  bring  to  the  boil,  and 
simmer  very  gently  for  2  hours.  10  minutes  before  serving,  add  the 
flour  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  stir  until  boiling,  simmer 
for  5  minutes  longer,  and  serve. 

Time. — 2\  hours.     Average  Cost,   icd. 

Jellies 

3229.— AMBER  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 2  eggs,  6  ozs.  of  loaf  or  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  sheet  gela- 
tine, £  a  pint  of  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  lemon-juice,  \  of  a  pint  of  sherry, 
Madeira,  or  Marsala,  the  thinly  cut  rind  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  about  20  minutes, 
turn  both  into  a  stewpan,  add  the  eggs  slightly  beaten,  the  shells 
crushed  and  the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Whisk  until  nearly  boiling, 
then  strain,  let  it  cool  slightly,  and  turn  into  a  mould  rinsed  with  cold 
water.  Turn  out  when  firm. 

Time. — To  make  the  jelly,  \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d. 

3230.— BEEF  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  beef  tea,  i  oz.  of  gelatine,  salt  and  pepper. 
Method. — Dissolve   the  gelatine   in   2    tablespoonfuls   of  hot   water, 
add  it  to  the  beef  tea,  and  season  to  taste.     Stir  until  beginning  to 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1371 

set,  then  pour  into  small  moulds,  and  put  aside  until  firm.  In  cases 
where  all  nourishment  must  be  administered  cold  or  iced,  the  above 
recipe  will  be  found  useful. 

Time. — 2  or  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d. 

3231.— CALF'S  FOOT  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 2  calves'  feet,  5  pints  of  water,  \  a  pint  of  sherry,  £  of  a 
pint  of  lemon-juice,  6  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  the  rinds  of  3  lemons,  the  whites 
and  shells  of  2  eggs,  i  inch  of  cinnamon,  4  cloves. 

Method. — Wash  and  blanch  the  feet,  and  divide  each  one  into  4  pieces. 
Replace  them  in  the  stewpan,  add  the  water,  and  boil  gently  for  6 
hours,  skimming  when  necessary.  Strain  and  measure  the  stock, 
and  if  there  is  more  than  i  quart,  boil  until  reduced  to  this  quantity. 
When  cold  remove  every  particle  of  grease,  turn  the  jellied  stock  into 
a  stewpan,  and  add  the  lemon-rinds,  pared  off  in  the  thinnest  possible 
strips,  the  lemon- juice,  sherry,  sugar,  the  stiffly- whisked  whites  and 
crushed  shells  of  the  eggs,  and  the  cinnamon  and  cloves.  Whisk  until 
boiling,  then  draw  the  stewpan  to  the  side  of  the  fire,  and  let  the  con- 
tents simmer  for  10  minutes.  Strain  through  a  scalded  jelly-bag, 
or  scalded  tea-cloth  tied  to  the  legs  of  a  chair  reversed,  and  turn  into 
moulds  rinsed  with  cold  water.  Turn  out  when  firm,  and  serve. 

Time. — 12  hours.     Average  Cost,  35.  6d. 

3232.— EGG  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 2  eggs,  5  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  oz.  of  gelatine,  2  lemons. 

Method. — Rub  the  sugar  on  the  lemon-rind,  squeeze  and  strain  the 
juice,  and  make  up  to  i  pint  with  cold  water.  When  using  Nelson's 
gelatine,  stir  it  into  the  lemon-juice  and  water,  and  let  it  soak  for  at 
least  i  hour;  soak  sheet  gelatine  from  15  to  20  minutes.  When  ready, 
turn  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved. 
Separate  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs,  whisk  the  former  to  a  stiff 
froth,  beat  the  latter  slightly  and  add  them,  with  the  sugar,  to  the 
contents  of  the  stewpan.  Stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved  and  the  yolks  of  egg  sufficiently  cooked,  but  if  allowed  to 
boil  it  may  curdle.  Mix  in,  off  the  fire  and  as  lightly  as  possible,  the 
whites  of  egg,  turn  into  a  mould  rinsed  with  cold  water,  and  when 
firm  unmould  and  serve.  A  more  solid  variety  may  be  made  by 
beating  both  yolks  and  whites  together. 

Time. — \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

3233.— IRISH  MOSS  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — \  an  oz.  of  Irish  moss,  i  pint  of  water,  £  a  glass  of  sherry, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  sugar  to  taste. 


1372  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method.  —  Wash  the  moss  thoroughly,  and  soak  it  in  cold  water  for 
12  hours.  Strain,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  i  pint  of  water,  and 
simmer  gently  for  5  hours,  adding  more  water  as  evaporation  occurs, 
so  as  to  keep  the  quantity  of  liquid  to  one  pint.  Strain,  sweeten  to 
taste,  add  the  lemon-juice  and  sherry,  and  turn  into  a  mould  previously 
rinsed  with  cold  water.  Irish  moss  possesses  medicinal  properties, 
but  the  flavour  is  somewhat  unpalatable,  hence  the  necessity  of  dis- 
guising it  with  sherry,  lemon-juice  or  other  flavouring  ingredients. 

Time.  —  17  hours.     Average  Cost,  $d. 

3234.—  MILK  JELLY. 

Ingredients.  —  i  pint  of  milk,  i£  ozs.  of  loaf  or  castor  sugar,  %  an  oz.  of 
sheet  gelatine,  the  thinly  cut  rind  of  £  of  a  lemon. 

Method.  —  Infuse  the  lemon-rind  in  the  milk  for  about  20  minutes, 
then  add  the  sugar  and  gelatine,  stir  until  the  latter  is  dissolved,  and 
take  out  the  lemon-rind.  Turn  the  preparation  into  a  basin,  and  stir 
from  time  to  time  until  it  attains  the  consistency  of  thick  cream. 
Have  ready  i  large  mould,  or  small  moulds,  rinsed  with  cold  water, 
pour  in  the  mixture,  and  place  on  ice  or  in  a  cold  place  until  set. 

Time.  —  2  or  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  5d. 

3235.—  PORT  WINE  JELLY. 

Ingredients.  —  \  a  pint  of  port  wine,  %  a  gill  of  water,  i  teaspoonful  of 
red-currant  jelly,  \  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  \  an  oz.  of  loaf  sugar,  carmine  or 
cochineal. 

Method.  —  Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  water  for  about  20  minutes,  then 
turn  both  into  a  stewpan,  and  add  the  sugar  and  red-currant  jelly. 
Stir  until  dissolved,  add  the  port  and  a  few  drops  of  carmine  or  cochineal 
to  brighten  the  colour,  and  strain  through  muslin.  Turn  into  dariol 
moulds  rinsed  with  cold  water,  and  turn  out  when  firm. 

Time.  —  2  or  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 

3236.—  RESTORATIVE  JELLY. 

Ingredients.  —  i  Ib.  of  shin  of  beef,  i  ox  foot,  i  quart  of  cold  water, 
\  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method.  —  Wash  and  blanch  the  foot,  and  divide  it  into  small  pieces. 
Cut  the  beef  into  small  pieces,  place  it  with  the  prepared  ox  foot,  water 
and  salt  in  a  jar  with  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  cover  with  3  or  4  folds  of 
greased  paper.  Have  ready  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  in  it  place 
the  jar,  and  cook  slowly  for  at  least  7  hours.  Then  strain,  skim,  season 
to  tasVe,  and  pour  into  a  previously  wetted  mould.  This  preparation, 
although  intended  to  be  served  as  a  jelly,  will  be  found  excellent  when 
warmed  and  served  as  a  soup. 

Time.  —  7  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d. 


.  —  Many  useful  recipes  for  jellies  suitable  for  convalescents  will  be 
found  in  the  chapter  dealing  exclusively  with  creams  and  jellies. 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1373 

3237.— RICE  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  rice,  i  quart  of  boiling  water,  i  inch  of  cinna- 
mon, sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Pick  and  wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  the  boiling  water  with 
the  cinnamon,  and  boil  gently  for  about  £  of  an  hour,  or  until  the  water 
becomes  thick  and  starchy.  Strain,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  pour  into 
small  moulds  rinsed  with  water.  Turn  out  when  firm. 

Time. — 2  or  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  id. 


Puddings,    Etc. 


3238.— ARROWROOT  SOUFFLE. 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  arrowroot,  \  an  oz.  of  sugar,  2  eggs,  £  a  pint  of 
milk,  bay-leaf  or  other  flavouring. 

Method.— Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil  the 
remainder  with  the  flavouring  ingredient,  and  let  it  infuse  for  10  or 
15  minutes.  Strain  on  to  the  arrowroot,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile, 
return  the  preparation  to  the  stewpan,  and  simmer  gently  for  about 
10  minutes.  Add  the  sugar,  beat  each  yolk  separately  into  the  mixture, 
and  lastly  stir  in  the  stiffly-whisked  whites.  Have  ready  a  well- 
buttered  china  baking-dish,  pour  in  the  preparation,  and  bake  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven  from  25  to  30  minutes. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  4d. 

3239.— ARROWROOT  SOUFFLE.   (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  arrowroot,  £  an  oz.  of  sugar,  2  eggs,  £  a  pint  of 
milk,  vanilla  or  other  flavouring,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil 
up  the  remainder,  and  pour  it  over  the  arrowroot,  stirring  briskly- 
mean  while.  Return  to  the  saucepan,  add  the  sugar,  a  few  drops  of 
vanilla  essence  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  stir  and  cook  over  the  fire 
until  the  mixture  leaves  the  sides  of  the  saucepan.  Cool  slightly,  beat 
each  yolk  in  separately,  and  stir  in  as  lightly  as  possible  the  whites  of 
eggs  previously  stiffly  whisked.  Pour  the  preparation  into  a  buttered 
pie-dish,  and  bake  gently  from  20  to  25  minutes. 

Time. — From  30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  2 
persons. 

3240.— BARLEY  CUSTARD  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  patent  barley,  V  an  oz.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful 
of  castor  sugar,  i  large  egg,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  salt,  nutmeg. 


1374  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Mix  the  barley  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil  up  the 
remainder,  and  pour  it  over  the  barley,  stirring  meanwhile.  Add  the 
butter,  sugar,  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  replace  in  the  stewpan,  and  stir  the 
mixture  until  it  boils.  Cool  slightly,  beat  in  the  yolk  of  egg,  and  lastly 
add  the  white  of  egg  previously  stiffly  whisked.  Turn  into  a  buttered 
pie-dish,  grate  a  little  nutmeg  on  the  top,  and  bake  gently  for  10  minutes. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3^d.     Sufficient  for  i  or  2  persons. 

Note. — Many  puddings  suitable  for  invalids  and  convalescents  will  be  found 
in  the  chapter  devoted  exclusively  to  puddings  and  hot  sweets. 


3241.— CARRAGEEN  BLANCMANGE. 

Ingredients. — i  teacupful  of  carrageen  (Irish  sea- moss),  sugar  to 
taste,  vanilla-essence  to  taste,  i  saltspoonful  of  salt,  i  quart  of  milk. 

Method. — Pick  and  wash  the  moss,  let  it  lie  in  cold  water  for  15 
minutes,  then  drain  well,  and  tie  it  loosely  in  coarse  net  or  muslin.  Put 
it  into  a  double  saucepan  with  the  milk  and  salt,  cook  until  the  milk 
will  jelly  when  a  little  is  poured  on  a  cold  plate,  and  sweeten  to  taste. 
Strain,  add  vanilla  essence  to  taste,  and  pour  the  preparation  into 
small  moulds  previously  rinsed  with  cold  water. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  $d. 

3242.— CUSTARD  MOULD. 

Ingredients. — 3  eggs,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  £  of  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  i 
pint  of  milk,  vanilla  pod,  bay-leaf  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Boil  the  flavouring  ingredient  in  the  milk,  and  infuse  for 
about  20  minutes.  Beat  the  eggs  lightly,  pour  over  them  the  hot,  but 
not  boiling,  milk,  stirring  well  meanwhile,  and  add  the  sugar.  Return 
to  the  stewpan,  cook  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  eggs  thicken, 
but  do  not  let  them  boil,  then  pour  the  preparation  on  to  the  gelatine 
in  a  basin.  Stir  until  dissolved,  then  turn  into  a  mould  or  dariol 
moulds  rinsed  with  cold  water.  When  firm  turn  out,  and  serve  with  a 
little  wine  sauce  or  fruit  syrup. 

Time. — \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

3243.— PORRIDGE,    (See   Recipe  No.  3149.). 
3244.— IRISH  MOSS  BLANCMANGE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  Irish  moss,  flavouring, 
salt. 

Method. — Wash  the  moss  in  several  waters,  and  pick  it  over  care- 
fully. Put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  the  milk  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  bring 
to  the  boil  and  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  or  until  it  thickens  when  a 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1375 

little  is  dropped  on  a  cold  plate.      Strain  and  flavour  to  taste,  pour 
into  small  moulds  previously  rinsed  with  cold  water,  and  when  firm 
turn  out  and  serve. 
Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

3245.— SEMOLINA  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  semolina,  i|  pints  of  milk,  £  an  oz.  of  gelatine, 
sugar  and  flavouring  to  taste. 

Method. — Soak  the  semolina  in  a  £  of  a  pint  of  milk  for  i  hour,  then 
put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  another  £  pint  of  milk,  and  simmer  gently 
for  about  £  an  hour.  Boil  the  remaining  £  pint  of  milk,  pour  it  over 
the  gelatine,  and  stir  until  it  is  dissolved.  Mix  this  with  the  semolina, 
sweeten  and  flavour  to  taste,  stir  until  the  cream  is  beginning  to  set, 
and  pour  into  a  wet  mould.  Turn  out  when  set. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  4-J-d. 

3246.— SUET  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet,  i£ozs.  of  sugar,  6  ozs. 
of  flour,  i  egg,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  suet,  flour,  sugar,  baking  powder,  and  a  pinch  of 
salt  together,  and  beat  and  add  the  egg.  Mix  well,  turn  into  well- 
greased  dariol  moulds,  cover  with  buttered  paper,  and  steam  from 
50  to  60  minutes.  Serve  with  honey,  jam,  or  golden  syrup. 

Time. — To  cook  the  puddings,  from  50  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
3£d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 


Beverages 


3247.— APPLE  TEA. 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  sour  cooking  apples,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Peel  and  slice  the  apples,  cover  them  with  boiling  water, 
let  them  remain  covered  in  a  basin  placed  in  a  tin  of  hot  water  on  the 
stove  until  soft  but  not  broken,  then  strain,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  use 
as  required. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  i£d.  to  2d.  per  pint. 

3248.— APPLE  WATER. 

Ingredients. — 2  large  apples,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  thinly-cut  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  i  pint  of  boiling 
water. 

Method. — Peel  the  apples,  cut  them  into  slices,  and  put  them  into  a 
jug  with  the  sugar,  lemon-rind  and  lemon-juice.  Pour  over  the  boiling 


1376  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

water,  let  the  jug  stand  covered  until  the  contents  are  quite  cold, 
then  strain.     If  preferred,  the  apples  may  be  previously  roasted. 
Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

3249.— ARROWROOT. 

Ingredients. — i  dessertspoonful  of  arrowroot,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor 
sugar,  £  a  pint  of  milk  or  water. 

Method. — Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  boil 
the  remainder  and  pour  it  on,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile.  Return  to 
the  stewpan,  and  boil  for  5  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  Add  the 
sugar,  and  serve.  If  preferred,  an  equal  quantity  of  water  may  be 
substituted  for  the  milk. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,   i£d. 

3250.— ARROWROOT  AND  BLACK-CURRANT  TEA. 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  black-currant  jam,  i  tablespoonful 
of  arrowroot,  i  quart  of  water. 

Method. — Put  the  jam  and  water  into  a  stewpan,  bring  to  the  boil, 
and  simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour.  Strain,  return  the  liquid  to  the  stew- 
pan, and  bring  again  to  boiling  point.  Mix  the  arrowroot  smoothly 
with  a  little  cold  water,  pour  it  into  the  stewpan,  and  boil  gently  for 
about  10  minutes.  Pour  into  a  jug,  stir  from  time  to  time  until 
cold,  and  use. 

Time. — 45  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

3251.— BARLEY  WATER. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  pearl  barley,  2  or  3  lumps  of  sugar,  the  thinly 
pared  rind  of  \  a  small  lemon,  i  pint  of  boiling  water. 

Method. — Cover  the  barley  with  cold  water,  boil  for  2  minutes,  and 
strain.  Place  the  barley,  sugar  and  lemon-rind  in  a  jug,  pour  in  the 
boiling  water,  and  cover  closely.  When  cold,  strain  and  use.  This  forms 
a  nutritious,  agreeable  drink,  and  it  is  also  largely  used  to  dilute  milk, 
thus  making  it  easier  of  digestion. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  i£d. 

3252.— BARLEY  WATER.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  pearl  barley,  i  quart  of  cold  water,  the  thinly- 
pared  rind  of  i  lemon,  the  juice  of  i  lemon  (if  allowed),  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Blanch  the  barley,  then  strain  and  return  it  to  the  stewpan. 
Add  the  water,  simmer  gently  for  •£  an  hour,  then  put  in  the  lemon-rind 
and  continue  the  cooking  for  £  an  hour  longer.  When  ready,  strain 
into  a  jug,  add  the  lemon- juice  and  sugar,  and  when  cold  use  as  re- 
quired. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,   i£d. 

A  very  nutritious  and  extremely  pleasant  drink"  may  be  quickly  and  easily 
prepared  by  using  Patent  Barley.  Directions  for  making  it  are  given  with 
each  packet. 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1377 

3253.— BARLEY  GRUEL. 

Ingredients. — i  tablespoonful  of  Patent  Barley  (flour),  a  pinch  of 
salt,  a  little  cold  water,  %  a  pint  of  boiling  water  (or  milk),  sugar  or 
port  to  taste. 

Method. — -Mix  the  barley  well  with  cold  water  until  a  smooth  paste, 
about  the  thickness  of  cream,  is  formed  ;  then  add  V  a  pint  of  boiling 
water  (or  milk,  which  is  preferable)  ;  put  into  an  enamelled  saucepan, 
add  sugar  or  wine  to  taste,  simmer  for  10  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time 
with  a  silver  or  wooden  spoon. 

Time. — -10  minutes.  Sufficient  to  make  £  a  pint.  Average  Cost,  2^d. 
without  spirit. 

3254.— BLACK-CURRANT  TEA. 

Ingredients. — i  dessertspoonful  of  black-currant  jam,  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  £  a  pint  of  boiling  water. 

Method. — Put  the  jam,  sugar  and  lemon-juice  into  a  jug,  pour  on  the 
boiling  water,  and  stir  well.  Cover  with  a  plate  or  saucer,  and  let  the 
jug  stand  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  15  or  20  minutes.  Strain  and  use 
hot  as  a  remedy  for  a  cold,  or  allow  it  to  become  cold,  and  use  as  a 
beverage  to  alleviate  thirst  or  hoarseness. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

3255.— BRANDY  AND  EGG  MIXTURE.  (Dr.  P. 
Muskett.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  best  brandy,  2  ozs.  of  cinnamon  water,  the  yolk 
of  i  egg,  £  of  an  oz.  of  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — "  Beat  the  yolk  of  egg  and  sugar  together,  and  add  the 
cinnamon  water  and  brandy.  From  £  a  teaspoonful  to  i  teaspoonful 
may  be  given  to  infants,  and  proportionately  increased  quantities 
to  children,  every  hour,  in  extreme  weakness.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
powerful  and  palatable  restoratives  known,  and  often  proves  of  incal- 
culable value." 

3256.— BRAN  TEA. 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  bran,  i  tablespoonful  of  honey, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  gum  arabic,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method.— Boil  the  bran  in  the  water  for  20  minutes.  Add  the  gum 
arabic  and  honey,  stir  from  time  to  time  until  dissolved,  and  strain 
through  muslin.  A  useful  remedy  for  hoarseness  and  sore  throat. 

Time. — £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

3257.— BRAN  TEA.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  wheat  bran,  i  quart  of  boiling  water,  sugar 
and  cream  to  taste. 

Method. — Put  the  bran  and  water  into  a  double  saucepan,  or  failing 
this,  an  earthenware  jar,  and  let  it  stand  where  it  will  keep  hot,  bat 

Y  Y 


1378  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

not  boil,  for  i  hour.     Strain,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  add  a  little  cream 
when  serving  it. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

3258.-  CARRAGEEN  CHOCOLATE. 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  carrageen  (Irish  sea-moss),  i  oz.  of  chocolate 
grated,  sugar  to  taste,  i£  pints  of  milk. 

Method. — Wash  and  soak  the  moss  (see  Recipe  No.  3241),  put  it  into 
a  saucepan  with  i  pint  of  cold  water,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Boil  the 
milk,  add  the  chocolate,  stir  until  dissolved,  then  add  the  moss  and 
water  from  the  other  pan.  Strain,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  serve  in 
glasses  while  quite  warm. 

Time. — 25  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d. 

Note. — "  Carrageen  Water  "  may  be  made  by  substituting  water  for  the 
milk  ;  cinnamon  or  lemon-rind  should  be  added. 

3259.— CAUDLE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  milk,  %  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  wineglassful  of 
sherry  or  brandy,  i  tablespoonful  of  fine  oatmeal,  i  tablespoonful  of 
castor  sugar,  the  finely-cut  rind  of  £  of  a  lemon,  a  little  nutmeg. 

Method. — Put  the  oatmeal,  lemon-rind,  water  and  milk  into  a  stew- 
pan,  bring  it  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  gently  for  15  minutes.  Stir  in 
the  brandy,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  remove  the  lemon-rind,  and  serve. 

Time. — 30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  sd.  to  6d. 

3260.— EGG  AND  BRANDY. 

Ingredients. — i  egg,  i  tablespoonful  of  good  brandy,  i  tablespoonful 
of  either  hot  or  cold  water,  castor  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Beat  the  egg  well  in  a  cup,  add  a  little  sugar,  and  the  water 
and  brandy,  and  mix  well.  Strain  into  a  tumbler,  and  serve. 

Time. — 5  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d. 

3261.— EGG  AND  WINE. 

Ingredients. — i  egg,  i  small  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  glass  of 
port  or  sherry,  an  equal  quantity  of  boiling  water. 

Method. — Beat  the  egg  well  in  a  cup,  add  the  sugar,  and  when 
dissolved,  pour  on  the  hot  water,  and  lastly  the  wine.  Strain  into  a 
tumbler,  and  serve. 

Time. — 5  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d.  or  6d. 

3262.— EGG  FLIP. 

Ingredients. — i  egg,  i  glass  of  port,  sherry  or  brandy,  i  teaspoonful 
of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Separate  the  white  and  yolk  of  the  egg,  whisk  the  former 
to  a  stiff  froth,  and  put  the  latter  into  a  tumbler.  Add  the  sugar, 
and  stir  with  a  teaspoon  until  creamy.  Put  in  the  wine,  stir  in  the 
prepared  white  as  lightly  as  possible,  and  serve. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,   6d, 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY          1379 

3263.—  EGG  FLIP.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  white  of  egg,  $  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of 
brandy  or  sherry. 

Method.  —  Mix  the  brandy  or  wine  and  the  milk  together  in  a  tumbler, 
and,  if  liked,  add  a  little  castor  sugar.  Beat  the  white  of  egg  to  a  stiff 
froth,  stir  it  lightly  in,  and  serve. 

Time.  —  5  minutes.     Average  Cost, 


3264.—  EGG  NOG. 

Ingredients.  —  i  white  of  egg,  i  tablespoonful  of  sherry  or  brandy, 
i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  castor  sugar  to  taste. 

Method.  —  Put  the  wine  or  brandy  into  a  tumbler,  add  the  cream  and 
a  little  sugar,  and  mix  well.  Whisk  the  while  of  egg  to  a  stiff  froth, 
stir  it  lightly  into  the  contents  of  the  tumbler,  and  serve. 

Time.  —  5  minutes.     Average  Cost,   $d. 

3265.—  EGG  NOG.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients.  —  i  egg,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  i  small  teaspoonful 
of  castor  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method.  —  Beat  the  egg  in  a  cup,  add  the  brandy  and  sugar,  and  mix 
well.  Strain  into  a  tumbler,  stir  in  the  milk,  and  serve. 

Time.  —  5  minutes.     Average  Cost,   sd. 

3266.—  EGG  NOG,  HOT. 

Ingredients.  —  The  yolk  of  i  egg,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of 
castor  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy  or  whisky. 

Method.  —  Beat  the  yolk  of  egg  and  sugar  well  together,  then  stir  in 
the  brandy  or  whisky.  Bring  the  milk  to  boiling  point,  then  pour  it 
over  the  mixed  ingredients,  stir  well,  and  serve. 

Time.  —  10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

3267.—  GRUEL,  BARLEY. 

Ingredients.  —  i  oz.  of  pearl  barley,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  small  glass  of 
port  wine  (optional),  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  the  thinly-cut  rind 
of  £  of  a  lemon. 

Method.  —  Blanch  and  strain  the  barley,  replace  it  in  the  stewpan 
with  the  water  and  lemon-rind,  and  simmer  for  20  minutes.  Strain, 
sweeten  to  taste,  add  the  port  wine,  and  bi 

Time.-  -\  an  hour.     Average  Co  \clusiveofwine. 

3268.—  GRUEL,  OATMEAL. 

Ingredients.—  i  tablespoonful  of  fine  oatmoaK  i  pint  of  water,  or  milk 
and  water  mixed,  sugar  to  taste,  a  pinch  of  salt. 


1386         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Mix  the  oatmeal  with  a  little  cold  water,  boil  the  remainder, 
pour  in  the  blended  oatmeal,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Simmer  gently 
for  $  an  hour,  stirring  frequently.  Strain,  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  and 
sweeten  to  taste.  Nutmeg,  ginger,  butter  or  cream  are  frequently 
added  when  the  gruel  is  intended  as  a  remedy  for  a  cold. 

Time. — 35  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2^d.,  when  milk  is  used. 

3269.— GRUEL,  OATMEAL.       (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  tablespoonful  of  coarse  oatmeal,  %  a  pint  of  cold 
water,  sugar  to  taste,  salt. 

Method. — Soak  the  oatmeal  in  the  cold  water  for  3  hours,  then  pour 
the  water  off  into  a  stewpan.  Boil  until  it  thickens,  stirring  occa- 
sionally, add  a  pinch  of  salt,  sweeten  and  flavour  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 3 1  hours.     Average  Cost,  |d. 

Note. — A  very  nutritious  gruel  can  also  be  made  with  Patent  Groats. 
Directions  are  given  with  each  packet. 

3270.— GRUEL,  SAGO. 

Ingredients. — i  dessertspoonful  of  fine  sago,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
castor  sugar,  |  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  i  glass  of  port  wine. 

Method. — Let  the  water  be  quite  boiling  in  a  stewpan,  then  sprinkle 
in  the  sago  and  boil  gently  until  it  is  quite  clear,  stirring  from  time 
to  time.  Add  the  sugar  and  wine,  and  serve. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  4^d. 

3271.— IRISH  MOSS. 

Ingredients. — |  an  oz.  of  Irish  moss,  i  dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  tablespoonful  of  wine  or  brandy, 
i  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Wash  the  moss  well,  then  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the 
cold  water,  and  simmer  gently  for  i  hour.  Strain,  add  the  sugar, 
lemon- juice  and  wine  or  brandy,  and  serve. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  5d. 

3272.— LEMONADE. 

Ingredients. — The  juice  of  2  lemons,  the  rind  of  i  lemon,  i  pint  of 
boiling  water,  4  or  5  lumps  of  sugar,  or  to  taste. 

Method. — Remove  the  rind  of  i  lemon  in  thin,  fine  strips,  place  them 
in  a  jug,  add  the  strained  juice  of  2  lemons,  and  the  sugar.  Pour  in 
the  boiling  water,  cover,  let  it  stand  until  cold,  then  strain,  and  use. 

Time. — 2  or  3  hours.     Average  Cost,   2d. 

3273.— -LEMONADE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — The  juice  of  2  lemons,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
i  pint  of  cold  water,  ice  if  allowed. 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1381 

Method. — Squeeze  and  strain  the  lemon-juice  into  a  jug,  add  the 
sugar,  and  stir  until  it  is  dissolved.  Pour  in  the  water,  add  a  few 
small  pieces  of  ice,  and  serve. 

Time. — 5   minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d. 

3274.— LEMON  SQUASH. 

Ingredients. — i  lemon,  i  small,  bottle  of  soda  water,  i  teaspoonful  of 
castor  sugar. 

Method. — Squeeze  and  strain  the  lemon-juice  into  a  tumbler,  add  the 
sugar,  pour  in  the  soda  water,  and  serve  at  once. 

Time. — 5  minutes.     Average  Cost,   3d. 

3275._LEMON  WHEY. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  the  juice  of  i  lemon,  castor  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Heat  the  milk  in  a  double  saucepan,  or  in  a  jar  placed  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Add  the  lemon-juice,  sweeten  to  taste, 
continue  cooking  until  the  curd  separates,  then  drain  of!  the  whey, 
and  serve  it  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

3276.— LINSEED  TEA. 

Ingredients. — i  o/.  of  whole  linseed,  £  an  oz.  of  liquorice,  £  an  oz.  of 
sugar  candy,  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon,  the  finely-cut  rind  of  ±  of  a  lemon, 
i  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Wash  and  drain  the  linseed,  and  simmer  it  with  the  water, 
liquorice  and  lemon-rind  for  about  £  an  hour.  Add  the  sugar  candy, 
and  when  dissolved,  strain  and  stir  in  the  lemon-juice. 

Time. — 40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

3277.  -MILK  AND  BAKED  FLOUR. 

Ingredients. — fc  an  oz.  of  baked  flour,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful 
of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Bake  the  flour  in  a  baking-tin  in  the  oven  until  it  acquires 
a  pale  fawn  colour,  then  mix  it  smoothly  with  a  little  of  the  milk.  Boil 
the  remainder  of  the  milk,  pour  in  the  blended  flour,  and  simmer  gently 
for  10  minutes,  stirring  continuously.  Stir  in  the  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,    i£d. 

3278.— POSSET,  TREACLE. 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  treacle,  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon, 
£  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Bring  the  milk  to  the  boil,  and  pour  in  the  treacle  and  lemon- 
juice.  As  soon  as  it  has  curdled,  strain  through  muslin,  and  serve  as  a 
remedy  for  a  cold. 

Time. — 5  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2d. 


1382  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3279.— POSSET,  MILK. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy  or  sherry, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  nutmeg  to  taste,  2  moderately  thin 
slices  of  stale  bread,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  bread  into  small  dice,  put  it  into  a  soup  bowl,  and 
sprinkle  over  it  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  the  sugar. 
Bring  the  milk  nearly  to  boiling  point,  pour  it  over  the  bread,  let  the 
bowl  stand  covered  for  10  minutes,  then  stir  in  the  brandy,  and  serve. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d. 

3280.— RICE  WATER.     (Dr.  Pavy.) 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  Carolina  rice,  i  quart  of  cold  water,  flavouring. 

Method. — "Wash  well  i  oz.  of  Carolina  rice  with  cold  water.  Then 
macerate  for  3  hours  in  a  quart  of  water  kept  at  tepid  heat,  and  after- 
wards boil  slowly  for  i  hour,  and  strain.  May  be  flavoured  with 
lemon  peel,  cloves,  or  other  spice."  This  preparation  is  useful  in  dysen- 
tery, diarrhoea,  etc. 

Time. — 4   hours. 

3281.— TOAST  WATER. 

Ingredients. — i  crust  of  bread,  i  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Toast  the  bread  very  brown  and  hard,  but  do  not  burn  it, 
or  it  will  impart  a  disagreeable  flavour  to  the  water.  Put  it  into  a  jug, 
pour  over  it  the  cold  water,  let  it  soak  for  i  hour,  then  strain  and  use. 

Time. — 1£  hours. 

3282.— WHEY.  (See  Curds  and  Whey,  No.  2998  ; 
Lemon  Whey,  No.  3275 ;  and  White  Wine 
Whey,  No.  3284.) 

3283.— WHITE   OF   EGG  AND   SODA  WATER. 

Ingredients. — i  white  of  egg,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  sherry  or  lemon- 
juice,  £  of  a  pint  of  soda-water,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Whisk  the  white  of  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  the  sugar;  and 
turn  it  into  a  tumbler.  Mix  the  brandy  lightly  in,  pour  in  the  soda 
water,  and  serve  at  once.  The  yolk  of  egg,  or  a  whole  egg,  can  be  used 
in  the  same  way. 

Time. — 5   minutes.     Average  Cost,  sd. 

3284.— WHITE  WINE  WHEY. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  milk,  \  a  glass  of  sherry,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Put  the  milk  and  wine  into  a  small  stewpan,  simmer  gently 
until  the  milk  curdles,  then  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  The  whey 
should  be  served  hot;  the  curds,  the  indigestible  part  of  the  milk,  are 
not  used. 

Time. — 5  minutes.      Average  Cost,  3^d. 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1383 

Peptonized  Foods 

Peptonized  foods  are  most  valuable  for  those  who  suffer  from  severe 
indigestion,  also  in  cases  of  dyspepsia  and  gastritis,  or  when  the  patient 
is  unable  to  take  milk  in  its  natural  form. 

The  chief  peptonizing  agents  are  pepsine  and  liquor  pancreaticus, 
and  the  food  when  acted  upon  becomes  partially  predigested  and  conse- 
quently more  readily  absorbed.  When  the  natural  digestive  juices  are 
deficient,  and  the  stomach  is  unable  to  properly  perform  its  office, 
those  who  suffer  from  this  cause  may,  by  employing  one  of  these  valu- 
able agents,  be  supplied  with  more  varied  food  than  they  would  other- 
wise be  able  to  digest.  During  the  process  of  peptonization  a  slightly 
bitter  taste  is  developed,  but  this  may  be  arrested  before  it  becomes 
too  pronounced  by  bringing  whatever  is  being  acted  upon  quickly  to 
boiling  point.  The  following  simple  recipes  will  sufficiently  illustrate 
the  principles  of  peptonization. 

3285.— PEPTONIZED  BEEF  TEA. 

Ingredients. — J  a  Ib.  of  finely-shredded  lean  beef,  i  teaspoonful  of 
liquor  pancreaticus,  20  grains  of  bi-carbonate  of  soda,  £  a  pint  of  water, 
a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  water,  beef  and  bi-carbonate  of  soda  into  a  stew- 
pan,  heat  slowly  to  140°  F.,  stirring  gently  meanwhile,  and  keep  at  this 
temperature  for  about  }  an  hour.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  it 
has  cooled  down  to  a  lukewarm  temperature,  add  the  liquor  pancrea- 
ticus, and  allow  the  vessel  to  remain  covered  in  a  warm  place  for  about 
i  hour.  Then  strain,  bring  to  the  bou^  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time.— if  hours.     Average  Cost,    is. 

3286.— PEPTONIZED  BEEF  TEA  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  peptonized  beef  tea,  £  an  oz.  of  sheet  gelatine. 

Method. — Make  the  beef  tea  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe*  then 
strain  and  bring  to  boiling  point.  Soften  the  gelatine  in  a  little  cold 
water,  add  it  to  the  beef  tea,  and  stir  until  dissolved.  Strain  into  a 
mould  previously  rinsed  with  cold  water,  and  keep  in  a  cold  place  until 
set. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,   is.  id. 

3287.— PEPTONIZED  MILK. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  liquor  pancreaticus,  20  grains  of  bi-carbonate  of  soda. 

Method. — Put  the  milk  and  water  into  an  enamelled  stewpan,  heat 
it  1o  140°  P.,  then  pour  it  into  a  jug  containing  the  liquor  pancreaticus 


1384  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  bi-carbonate  of  soda.  Cover  the  jug,  wrap  it  in  flannel,  and  let 
it  stand  in  a  warm,  but  not  hot,  place  for  i  hour.  Boil  up  to  prevent 
the  bitter  taste  becoming  too  much  developed.  Milk  thus  prepared 
can  be  used  for  various  preparations,  or  it  may  be  served  as  ordinary 
milk,  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d. 

3288.— PEPTONIZED  GRUEL. 

Ingredients. — J-  a  pint  of  thick  gruel,  \  a  pint  of  fresh  milk,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  liquor  pancreaticus,  20  grains  of  bi-carbonate  of  soda. 

Method. — Make  the  gruel  from  any  farinaceous  food  preferred  (see 
preceding  recipes),  and  add  to  it  the  cold  milk.  Stir  the  liquor  pan- 
creaticus and  bi-carbonate  of  soda  at  once  into  this  warm  preparation, 
cover,  and  keep  it  at  the  same  temperature  for  about  %  an  hour.  Boil 
for  a  few  minutes,  sweeten  and  flavour  to  taste,  then  serve. 

Time. — 40  minutes.     Average  Cost,  5d. 

3289.— PEPTONIZED  SOUPS. 

Any  puree  or  stock  forming  the  basis  of  soup  may  be  peptonized 
by  adding  to  each  pint  i  tablespoonful  of  liquor  pancreaticus  and  20 
grains  of  bi-carbonate  of  soda.  As  soon  as  the  right  stage  of  peptoniza- 
tion  is  reached  the  soup  should  at  once  be  boiled,  otherwise  an  unplea- 
sant bitter  flavour  will  be  imparted  to  the  preparation. 


Diabetic  Foods 

3290.— ALMOND  BREAD. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  almond  meal,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  gluten  meal, 
i  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  meal,  salt,  and  baking  powder  together,  and  add 
the  butter  previously  well  beaten.  Add  the  eggs  separately,  beat  well, 
then  bake  in  a  shallow  tin  from  20  to  25  minutes. 

Time. — i  hour. 

3291.— ALMOND  BREAD.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  almond  meal,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  prepared 
bran,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  milk  (about). 

Method. — Prepare  and  bake  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
This  bread,  as  well  as  the  above,  will  be  found  extremely  palatable 
if,  when  cool,  it  is  cut  into  pieces  the  size  of  an  ordinary  rusk,  and 
browned  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time. — i  hour. 


RECIPES  FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1385 

3292.— ALMOND  SPONGE,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. —  i  oz.  of  almond  flour,  2  whites  of  eggs,  salt,  and  sac- 
charine to  taste. 

Method. — Whisk  the  whites  stiffly,  stir  in  the  flour  lightly,  and  add  a 
pinch  of  salt  and  saccharine  to  taste.  Bake  from  15  to  20  minutes 
in  a  hot  oven.  The  saccharine  may  be  omitted,  and  the  preparation 
will  then  be  found  a  good  substitute  for  bread. 

Time. — 30  minutes. 

3293.— COCOANUT  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  unsweetened  cocoanut,  2  ozs.  of  almond  flour, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  egg,  milk,  saccharine,  salt. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter,  add  the  almond  flour,  cocoanut,  saccha- 
rine, and  a  pinch  of  salt,  and,  when  well  mixed,  stir  in  the  egg  and  as 
much  milk  as  will  form  a  stiff  mixture.  Place  it  in  small  heaps  on  a 
greased  tin,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  from  15  to  20  minutes. 

Time. — 30  minutes. 

3294.- CUSTARD. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs,  saccharine,  flavouring,  salt. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  milk,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and 
sweeten  and  flavour  to  taste.  The  preparation  may  be  baked  in  a  pie- 
dish,  steamed  in  a  basin,  or  cooked  in  a  jug  placed  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water.  Savoury  custard  may  be  made  by  substituting  salt, 
pepper,  and  parsley  for  the  saccharine  and  flavouring,  and  some  or  all 
of  the  milk  should  be  replaced  by  good  white  stock. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.     Average   Cost,  4d. 

3295.— EGG  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  water,  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  thin  rind  of  i 
lemon,  £  of  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  i  egg,  saccharine. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  saucepan,  and  stir  the  mixture 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved.  Strain  into  a 
mould,  and  turn  out  the  jelly  when  set. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  sd. 

3296.--FISH. 

Fish  of  every  description  is  allowed,  and  the  usual  methods  of  cook- 
ing may  be  applied,  except  frying  in  deep  fat,  the  breadcrumbs  or 
flour  batter  used  in  preparing  fish  thus  cooked  being  prohibited. 


1386  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3297._HARICOT  BEAN  TEA. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  white  haricot  beans,  i  quart  of  water,  a 
bay-leaf,  i  clove,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  2  or  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream. 

Method. — Soak  the  beans  for  12  hours,  then  wash  them  well,  and 
put  them  into  a  well-lined  stewpan.  Add  the  water,  bay-leaf,  clove, 
parsley  and  a  little  salt,  boil  gently  for  3  hours,  and  strain  through  a 
fine  strainer.  Let  the  tea  stand  for  15  or  20  minutes,  then  pour  care- 
fully into  a  clean  stewpan,  taking  care  not  to  disturb  the  sediment. 
Re-heat,  add  the  cream,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 3^  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d. 

3298.— LENTIL  FLOUR  GRUEL. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  milk  (or  milk  and  water),  2\  ozs.  of  lentil 
flour,  sugar  to  taste,  flavouring  if  liked,  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour  smoothly  with  a  little  milk,  boil  up  the 
remainder,  and  pour  it  over  the  blended  flour.  Replace  in  the  saucer 
pan,  stir  and  boil  gently  for  5  minutes,  then  add  a  good  pinch  of  salt, 
saccharine  to  taste,  and  cover  closely.  Simmer  gently  for  %  an  hour, 
stirring  occasionally,  then  add  a  little  ginger,  nutmeg,  or  any  flavour- 
ing preferred,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  $d.  to  6d.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons. 

3299.— MEAT,  POULTRY,  GAME. 

The  ordinary  methods  of  cooking  are  applied,  but  all  gravies  and 
sauces  must  be  entirely  free  from  root  vegetables,  flour  and  other 
starchy  substances. 

3300.— MILK  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  milk,  £  of  an  oz.  of  gelatine,  saccharine, 
lemon-rind  or  other  flavouring. 

Method, — Infuse  2  or  3  fine  strips  of  lemon-rind  in  the  milk  for  10 
minutes,  add  the  saccharine  and  gelatine,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  until  the  latter  is  dissolved.  Strain  int©  a  mould,  and  turn  out 
when  set. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  3d. 

3301.— SAUCES. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  gluten  flour,  i  pint  of 
stock,  milk,  or  water. 

Method.- — Melt  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  gluten  flour,  and, 
when  well  mixed,  put  in  the  stock,  milk  or  water.  Stir  and  boil  for  a  few 
minutes,  season  to  taste,  and  serve.  A  sweet  sauce  is  made  by  adding 


RECIPES   FOR  INVALID  COOKERY  1387 

saccharine  and  flavouring,  instead  of  salt  and  pepper  ;    and  yolks  of 
eggs  and  cream  may  partially,  or  entirely,  replace  the  gluten  flour. 
Time. — 15   minutes.     Average  Cost,  56!. 

3302.— SOUFFLES  (SWEET  AND  SAVOURY). 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  almond  flour,  or  gluten  flour,  £  a  pint  of 
milk,  2  eggs. 

Method. — Mix  the  almond  flour  or  gluten  flour  smoothly  with  a  little 
milk,  boil  up  the  remainder,  and  add  the  flour.  Stir  and  cook  over  the 
ffre  until  thick,  add  saccharine  and  flavouring  to  taste,  and  beat  in  the 
yolks  of  eggs.  Whisk  the  whites  stiffly,  stir  them  lightly  in,  pour  the 
mixture  into  a  buttered  pie-dish,and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  20  minutes. 
A  savoury  souffle  may  be  made  by  adding  salt  and  savoury  season- 
ing instead  of  sugar  ;  and  when  making  a  fish  souffle,  fish  stock  should 
replace  the  milk. 

Time. — 40  minutes. 

3303.— SOUPS. 

Soups  may  be  made  from  meat,  game,  poultry  or  fish,  but  they  must 
contain  no  root  vegetables  or  starchy  substances.  Such  vegetables 
as  cabbage,  lettuce  or  spinach  are  allowed,  and  the  soup  may  be  thick- 
ened with  almond  flour,  or  yolks  of  « 

3304.— THICK  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  gravy  beef,  i  pint  of  water,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  almond  flour  or  gluten  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  cabbage  cooked  and 
chopped,  i  tablespoonful  of  cream,  salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  and  simmer  it  in  the  water 
for  ii-  hours.  Strain,  replace  in  the  stewpan,  add  the  almond  flour 
or  gluten  flour  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water,  and  stir  until 
boiling.  Stir  and  cook  gently  for  about  10  minutes,  add  the  cabbage 
and  cream,  and  season  to  taste. 

Time. — 2  hours. 

3305.— TRIPE   SOUP. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  tripe,  i  pint  of  milk,  i  pint  of  stock  or  water, 
i  small  onion,  i  clove,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  tripe,  blend  and  drain  it,  and  cook  it  in  the 
milk  and  stock  or  water,  with  the  onion  and  clove,  for  an  hour  or  till 
tender,  then  mince  the  tripe  finely  and  add  it  to  the  broth.  Melt 
the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  dilute  with  i  gill  of  milk,  stir  till  it  boils 
and  add  to  the  soup.  Boil  for  10  minutes  longer,  season  slightly 
and  scr\ 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  /d.  or  8d. 


BREAD,    BISCUITS  AND 
5^  CAKES 

CHAPTER  XLVI 

Cereals. — Among  the  large  variety  of  vegetable  products  yielding 
articles  of  food  for  man,  the  "  cereals  "  undoubtedly  hold  the  first  place. 
They  are  so-called  after  "  Ceres,"  who,  in  Roman  mythology,  was  the 
goddess  of  corn  and  tillage,  or  more  generally  speaking,  of  agriculture. 
The  best-known  cereals  are  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats  and  maize. 
Of  these  wheat  comes  first,  and  in  this  country  scarcely  anything 
else  is  employed  at  the  present  time  for  bread-making,  although 
at  different  times  other  grain  and  vegetables  have  been  pressed  into 
service,  generally,  however,  in  times  of  scarcity  and  famine,  when  the 
quartern  loaf  has  risen  in  price  to  2s.  There  is  a  vast  difference  in  the 
price  of  bread  now  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
when  also  the  quality  was  decidedly  bad.  In  the  early  days  of  the 
nineteenth  century  the  country  was  no  doubt  in  a  very  bad  way,  and 
we  whose  lot  is  cast  in  the  present  day  have  much  to  be  thankful  for. 
A  quartern  loaf  made  at  the  present  time  from  the  finest  flour  the  world 
produces  is  within  the  reach  of  almost  all,  for  to-day  the  average 
price  of  bread  for  the  country  is  5d.  per  quartern. 

Rye  is  used  for  the  purposes  of  bread-making  in  some  continental 
countries,  but  in  England  it  takes  more  the  form  of  a  luxury  than 
ordinary  e very-day  food.  It  is  hard,  and  less  easily  soluble  by  the 
gastric  juices,  and  is  less  rich  in  nutritive  properties  than  wheat- 
meal  or  flour.  Flour  or  meal  produced  from  barley,  maize,  or  rice, 
cannot  be  employed  satisfactorily  for  the  manufacture  of  bread  unless 
a  considerable  portion  of  wheat  flour  is  added,  and  in  countries  where 
these  grains  are  the  staple  food  of  the  people  they  are  as  often  eaten 
as  porridge  or  mash  as  in  the  form  of  bread. 

On  examining  a  grain  of  corn  from  any  of  the  numerous  cereals  used 
in  the  preparation  of  flour,  such  as  wheat,  rye,  barley,  etc.,  it  will  be 
found  to  consist  of  the  husk,  or  exterior  covering,  which  is  generally 
of  a  dark  colour,  and  the  inner  part,  which  is  more  or  less  white.  That 
is  what  is  seen  on  a  superficial  examination,  but  looked  at  through  a 
microscope  there  is  a  centre  white  part,  consisting  almost  entirely  of 

1383 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1389 

starch  cells,  and  5  or  6  layers  of  different-shaped  cells  surrounding  the 
starch,  each  less  starchy  and  less  white  than  the  centre,  each  containing 
more  phosphates  and  getting  browner  as  it  is  nearer  to  the  outer  cover- 
ing of  all,  the  bran.  The  gluten  or  flesh-forming  material  is  in  a 
row  of  brick-shaped  cells  near  the  starch.  In  grinding,  these  two 
portions  are  separated,  and,  the  husk  being  blown  away  in  the  process 
of  winnowing,  the  flour  remains  in  the  form  of  a  light-brown  powder. 
In  order  to  separate  the  brown  from  the  white,  it  undergoes  a  process 
called  "  bolting."  It  is  passed  through  a  series  of  fine  sieves,  which 
separate  the  coarser  parts,  leaving  behind  fine  white  flour — the  "  whites  " 
or  "  supers  "  of  the  millers,  flour  dealers,  or  factors.  It  will  thus  be 
seen  that  the  finest  white  flour  comes  from  the  centre  of  the  grain,  and 
contains  a  considerable  proportion  of  starch.  "  Households,"  or 
"  fines,"  is  somewhat  darker  in  colour  because  it  takes  in  some  of  the 
cells  rich  in  gluten,  it  is  therefore  more  nourishing  and,  as  a  rule, 
stronger  and  more  elastic  in  the  dough,  and  will  make  a  larger  though 
sometimes  a  very  holey  loaf.  "  Sharps,"  "  tails,"  "  tippings  "  and 
"  pollard"  are  all  names  given  to  the  intermediate  products  between 
white  flour  and  bran.  These  latter  products  are  generally  used  to  feed 
stock  upon,  but  might  with  some  probable  advantage  be  added  to  bread, 
as  they  are  very  nourishing,  and  not  indigestible  like  bran.  This  was 
the  process  generally  in  vogue  for  the  production  of  flour  fifty  years 
ago,  but  at  the  present  time  a  totally  different  process  is  followed,  and 
the  old-time  stones  have  been  replaced  by  steam  rollers ;  hence  the 
term  now  generally  met  with  of  "  roller  process  flour,"  meaning  that 
the  wheat  has  been  reduced  to  flour  by  rollers  instead  of  ground  as 
before  described.  There  is  also  a  good  deal  of  difference  in  the  products 
of  the  two  systems,  for  although  flour  is  the  result  of  both,  the  roller 
flour  is  the  better.  The  principal  difference  between  the  two  pro- 
cesses is  that  by  the  roller  process  the  flour  is  manufactured  after  the 
impurities  have  been  got  rid  of,  while  in  stone  milling,  as  before  stated, 
the  whole  grains  are  ground  down  into  a  general  mass,  and  a  portion 
of  the  impurities  removed  or  taken  out  in  the  subsequent  dressings 
or  bolting  of  the  meal. 

The  process  of  roller-milling  can  be  divided  into  5  stages  : — ist.  Clean- 
ing the  wheat  ;  2nd.  The  break-roller  process  ;  jrd.  Purification  ; 
4th.  Smooth-roller  process  ;  5th.  Flour  dressing. 

The  first  process  consists  of  cleaning  the  grains  and  freeing  them 
from  foreign  matter,  and  many  ingenious  machines  are  used  for  the 
purpose  which  need  not  be  discussed  here.  The  grain  being  cleaned, 
dried,  or  whatever  preliminary  operation  is  necessary,  is  fed  into  the 
break  rolls.  These  are  constructed  of  steel,  iluted  longitudinally,  with 
a  slight  spool,  and  as  the  grains  pass  through  they  are  crushed,  and 
semolina  middlings  flour  and  offal  are  produced.  Usually  there  are 
seven  sets  of  rolls  to  each  break,  and  the  products  from  each  break  are 
sifted  by  sieves  with  different  sized  meshes,  and  the  product  is  termed 


1390  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

"  through,"  while  that  which  does  not  pass  through  the  sieves  is  termed 
"  tails,"  and  forms  the  feed  for  the  second  and  subsequent  breaks, 
until  the  last  break  is  reached,  and  the  "  throughs  "  are  reserved  for 
gentler  treatment. 

The  first  break  reduces  the  grain  to  rather  large  particles,  and  as 
the  "  tail  "  passes  down  to  the  lower  breaks  it  becomes  more  branny, 
until,  at  the  last  break,  very  little  but  bran  is  left.  The  grain  having 
been  passed  through  the  rollers  and  sieves  gives  several  different  pro- 
ducts that  need  not  be  particularised  here  ;  then  comes  the  purification 
process,  which  is  done  with  machines  termed  "  purifiers,"  fitted  with 
horizontal  sieves  of  "  Swiss-silk,"  through  which  the  currents  of  air 
are  passed.  By  the  motion  of  the  sieves  and  the  action  of  the  air  the 
light  and  impure  particles  are  lifted  to  the  top,  the  lightest  are  blown 
away,  and  the  medium  floated  to  the  tail  to  be  repurified,  the  heaviest 
and  best  semolina  only  passing  through  the  sieves.  The  "  throughs  " 
from  the  different  breaks  are  now  run  through  smooth  rollers  that  run 
at  slightly  different  speeds,  and  afterwards  comes  the  dressing,  which 
results  in  ist  Patents,  2nd  Patents  ;  ist  Bakers,  2nd  Bakers, 
which  are  more  than  equivalent  to  the  whites,  supers,  households,  and 
No.  28  of  the  old-fashioned  miller.  Of  course,  the  middlings,  sharps, 
pollard  and  bran  are  taken  out  during  different  stages  of  the  process. 

Wholemeal  and  Brown  Breads. — In  ancient  times,  down  to  the  Em- 
perors, bolted  flour  was  unknown.  In  many  parts  of  Germany  the 
entire  meal  is  still  used  for  bread,  and  in  no  part  of  the  world  are  the 
digestive  organs  of  the  people  in  a  better  condition.  But  the  principal 
grain  used  is  rye,  and  not  wheat,  as  in  England.  Brown  bread  has  of 
late  years  become  more  popular,  and  many  physicians  have  recom- 
mended it  to  invalids  with  weak  digestion  and  people  of  sedentary 
habits  with  great  success.  Nevertheless,  it  is  questionable  whether 
wholemeal  bread  would  prove  an  advantage  to  the  mass  of  the  people,  for 
the  bran  is  not  digestible,  and  indeed,  its  value,  in  the  physician's  hands, 
depends  upon  that.  Decorticated  bread,  from  which  the  bran  only  is 
absent,  is  not  open  to  the  same  objection,  and  will  afford  a  pleasant 
change,  occasionally,  from  the  white  bread  which  is  so  popular.  Unfor- 
tunately brown  bread  is  sometimes  made  from  white  flour  and  bran, 
leaving  out  all  the  central  products,  and,  therefore,  cannot  be  of  so 
high  a  dietetic  value  as  wholemeal  or  decorticated  wheatmeal  bread. 
Bran  contains  a  large  proportion  of  phosphates  and  mineral  matter, 
and  the  ferment  peculiar  to  wheat  flour,  said  to  assist  in  its  digestion  ; 
hence  it  will  be  seen  why  brown  bread  is  more  nourishing  than  white 
bread  ;  indeed,  we  may  lay  it  down  as  a  general  rule,  that  the  whiter 
the  bread,  the  less  nourishment  it  contains.  At  the  same  time,  the 
white  loaf  still  flourishes,  and  the  colour  of  the  crumb  is  a  sure  indica- 
tion of  the  quality  of  the  flour  used  in  its  manufacture. 

Bread-making  is  a  very  ancient  art.  The  Assyrians,  Egyptians  and 
Greeks  used  to  make  bread,  in  which  oil,  with  aniseed  and  other  spices 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       139! 

were  elements,  but  this  was  unleavened.  Every  family  used  to  prepare 
the  bread  for  its  own  consumption,  the  trade  of  baking  not  having  then 
taken  shape.  It  is  said  that  somewhere  about  the  beginning  of  the 
both  Olympiad,  the  slave  of  an  archon  at  Athens,  made  leavened 
bread  by  accident.  He  had  left  some  wheaten  dough  in  an  earthen 
pan,  and  had  forgotten  it  ;  some  days  afterwards  he  lighted  upon  it 
again,  and  found  it  turning  sour.  His  first  thought  was  to  throw  it 
away  ;  but,  his  master  coming  up,  he  mixed  this  now  acescent 
dough  with  some  fresh  dough,  which  he  was  working  at.  The  bread 
thus  produced,  by  the  introduction  of  dough  in  which  alcoholic  fermenta- 
tion had  begun,  was  found  delicious  by  the  archon  and  his  friends,  and 
the  slave,  being  summoned  and  catechised,  told  the  secret.  It  spread 
all  over  Athens,  and  everybody  wanting  leavened  bread  at  once,  certain 
persons  set  up  as  bread-makers,  or  bakers.  In  a  short  time  bread- 
making  became  quite  an  art,  and  "Athenian  Bread"  was  quoted  all 
over  Greece  as  the  best  bread,  just  as  the  honey  of  Hymettus  was  cele- 
brated as  the  best  of  its  kind. 

In  our  own  times,  and  among  civilised  peoples,  bread  has  become 
an  article  of  food  of  the  first  necessity  ;  and  rightly  so,  for  it  constitutes 
<>t  itsclt  a  complete  lite-sustainer — the  gluten,  fibrin,  fat,  phosphates, 
starch  and  su.ua  r.  which  it  contains,  representing  all  the  neo 
classes  of  food  ;  and  when  the  question  of  cost  arises,  it  is  one  ol  the 
cheapest  foods  supplied  to  man.  In  towns  and  large  centres  of  popula- 
tion, bread  is  cheapest,  and  if  not  of  the  highest  quality,  as  a  life  sus- 
tainer  it  is  more  valuable  than  the  whitest  of  flour.  But,  comparatively 
speaking,  bread  by  itself  contains  too  little  fat,  and  too  little  flesh-form- 
ing material  to  be  used  as  a  sole  article  of  diet. 

Different  kinds  of  Flours. — The  finest,  wholesomest,  and  most  savoury 
bread  is  made  from  wheaten  flour.  Rye  bread  comes  next  to  wheaten 
bread  ;  it  is  not  so  rich  in  gluten,  but  is  said  to  keep  fresh  longer, 
and  to  possess  some  laxative  qualities. 

Barley  bread,  Indian-corn  bread,  etc.,  made  from  barley,  maize,  oats, 
rice,  potatoes,  etc.,  "  rise  badly,"  because  the  grains  in  question  con- 
tain but  little  gluten,  so  that  the  bread  is  heavy,  close  in  texture,  and 
difficult  of  digestion  ;  in  fact,  wheat  flour  has  to  be  added  before  panifi- 
cation  can  take  place.  In  countries  where  wheat  is  scarce  and  maize 
abundant,  the  people  make  the  latter  a  chief  article  of  sustenance, 
prepared  in  different  forms. 

Yeast  is  a  living  plant,  consisting  of  a  vast  number  of  minute  cells, 
which  multiply  by  budding  off  other  cells,  and  sometimes  by  spores, 
«uid  moet  of  the  mistakes  in  its  use  would  be  avoided  if  this  were  under- 
stood. Extremes  of  heat  and  cold  kill  it,  and  a  temperature  that  it 
does  not  like  prevents  it  from  growing  actively  at  the  time,  even  though 
it  may  not  be  hot  or  cold  enough  to  put  an  end  to  its  growing  in  future 
under  more  favourable  conditions.  Under  a  microscope  each  plant 
can  be  readily  defined.  If  a  1  \\  1>  put  into  flour  and  water,  potatoes 


1392  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  water,  or  any  suitable  mixture,  they  grow  and  multiply,  producing 
more  yeast  plants  like  themselves,  and  in  growing  they  give  out  car^ 
bonic  acid  gas  and  water,  with  a  little  alcohol.  Cooks  talk  about  keep^ 
ing  a  little  yeast  in  sugar  and  water,  but  it  is  kept  only  as  this  year's 
corn  is  kept  when  it  is  sown  to  make  next  year's  bread.  It  does  not 
grow  freely  in  sugar  and  water  only,  it  requires  something  more. 
Flour  and  sugar  is  easy  and  convenient,  or  potatoes.  The  better 
the  food  suits  the  yeast  the  faster  it  grows  ;  in  some  mixtures,  care- 
fully prepared  on  purpose,  it  grows  so  fast  that  as  much  as  will  lie 
on  a  shilling  fills  a  cup  in  an  hour  or  two.  It  must  always  be  kept 
warm,  at  blood-heat,  during  the  process  of  fermentation,  unless  you 
desire  to  check  its  growth  or  vigour,  in  which  case  the  temperature 
must  be  considerably  reduced. 

Growth  of  Yeast. — One  practical  use  of  these  facts  is  that,  given  a  little 
good  yeast,  any  amount  more  may  be  made.  A  second  is,  that  if 
Brewer's  yeast  is  bitter,  a  little  of  it  will  always  yield  some  new  yeast 
that  is  not  bitter. 

Rough  usage  or  shaking  will  also  prevent  its  growth, 

Before  making  any  quantity  of  bread,  it  is  wise  to  test  the  yeast  and 
see  if  it  yields,  by  mixing  a  little  and  setting  it  near  a  warm  stove 
for  an  hour,  but  on  no  account  must  it  get  hot,  for  that  would  effect- 
ually kill  it. 

Home-made  Yeast  is  sometimes  made  of  malt  and  hops,  and  no  yeast 
is  added  by  the  maker.  If  the  solution  begins  to  ferment,  yeast  has 
certainly  got  into  it  some  way  or  another,  and  yet,  exposed  to  the  air, 
it  is  almost  sure  to  ferment  sooner  or  later,  and  will  probably  ferment 
very  soon  if  there  is  yeast  anywhere  near. 

Choice  of  Yeast. — In  this  country  the  choice  of  yeast  is  almost 
unlimited,  for  besides  Brewer's  and  Baker's  "  Patent,"  there  is  an  im- 
mense quantity  imported  from  the  continent,  and  vast  quantities  are 
also  supplied  by  the  spirit  factories  or  distilleries  of  this  country.  All 
kinds  of  leavening  matter  have,  however,  been,  and  are  still  used  in 
different  parts  of  the  world  :  in  the  East  Indies,  "  toddy,"  which  is  a 
liquor  that  flows  from  the  wounded  cocoa-nut  tree  ;  and  in  the  West 
Indies,  "  dunder,"  or  the  refuse  of  the  distillation  of  rum.  The  dough 
then  undergoes  the  well-known  process  called  kneading.  The  yeast 
produces  fermentation,  a  process  which  may  be  thus  described  : — 
The  dough  re-acting  upon  the  leavening  matter  introduced,  the  starch 
of  the  flour  is  transformed  into  saccharine  matter,  the  saccharine  matter 
being  afterwards  changed  into  alcohol,  water,  and  carbonic  acid  gas. 
The  dough  must  be  well  "  bound,"  and  yet  allow  the  escape  of  the  little 
bubbles  of  carbonic  acid  which  result  from  fermentation,  which  in  their 
passage  cause  the  numerous  little  holes  which  are  seen  in  light  bread. 
To  Choose  Flour. — The  quality  of  wheat  varies  much  with  the  weather 
of  each  season  at  home,  and  also  with  the  weather  and  soil  in  countries 
that  differ  more  from  each  other  than  our  wettest  season  from  our  driest. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1393 

So  much  flour  is  now  imported  that  we  always  have  a  good  supply.  If 
one  country  fails,  another  succeeds.  In  bygone  times,  when  there  was 
little  or  no  foreign  corn,  if  the  corn  sprouted  in  shock  there  was  bad 
bread  for  the  community  until  a  better  season  came  round,  for  sprouted 
corn  and  bad  flour  cannot  be  made  into  good  bread,  even  with  all  the 
skilful  manipulation  of  the  modern  baker. 

Good  Flour  is  Dry,  and  does  not  lose  more  than  1 2  per  cent,  in  weight 
when  heated  in  an  oven.  To  grind  corn  damp,  and  so  increase  its 
weight,  is  not  an  uncommon  practice.  Every  cook  knows  that  the 
same  weight  of  flour  will  not  always  mix  with  an  equal  quantity  of  water, 
and  that  the  better  the  flour  the  more  water  it  takes  up.  It  should 
be  white,  with  a  yellowish  tinge,  household  flour  being  always  less  white 
than  "  firsts,"  or  fine  Hungarian,  used  for  pastry,  adherent,  so  that  a 
handful  squeezed  keeps  its  shape  ;  neither  acid,  nor  soon  becoming 
acid  ;  and  it  should,  above  all,  make  a  good  loaf.  This  last  is  the  best 
of  all  tests,  and  before  buying  any  large  quantity  of  flour  it  is  always 
wise  to  apply  it  on  a  sample.  From  i  sack  of  flour  (280  Ibs.)  from  90 
to  loo  (4-lbs.)  loaves  may  be  made.  The  average  is  about  95.  If  the 
flour  is  remarkably  good  and  dry,  a  greater  weight  of  water  is  taken 
up,  and  consequently  a  larger  number  of  loaves  are  made  from  the  same 
amount  of  flour.  Cloths  are  sometimes  thrown  over  bread  hot  out  of 
the  oven  to  retain  the  steam  and  prevent  the  loaves  from  becoming  dry. 

Loss  of  Weight  in  Baking. — Dough  loses  about  £  of  its  weight  in  baking. 
Potato  is  sometimes  added  in  small  quantities  with  no  evil  intent,  be- 
cause yeast  acts  more  quickly  on  potato  starch  than  that  contained  in 
the  flour  ;  but  of  late  years  Malt  Extract  has  largely  superseded  the  use 
of  potatoes,  as  being  more  cleanly,  a  true  yeast  food,  and  more  adapted 
to  modern  processes.  The  skill  of  the  baker  is  applied  so  to  mix 
the  flour  that  it  may  produce  the  best  bread,  as  regards  its  colour, 
flavour,  and  keeping  quality.  It  is  usual  to  use  strong  American  flour 
:ting  the  sponge,  and  afterwards  to  knead  in  some  of  the  sweet 
flour  grown  in  our  English  counties.  About  §  of  our  flour  comes  from 
abroad,  and  it  is  generally  used  to  mix  in  with  and  fortify  our  home 
supply,  though  every  one  who  has  tried  new  English  flour,  grown  in  a 
good  season  and  on  good  soil,  will  agree  that  none  can  equal  it  for  sweet- 
ness. 

Daily  Consumption  of  Bread. — It  is  usual  to  allow  i  Ib.  of  bread  per 
diem  to  each  person.     Two  people  would  eat  a  half-quartern  loaf  be- 
tween them.     This  is  an  ample  allowance,  even  if  there  is  not  a  very 
abundant  supply  of  other  foods,  and  if  more  than  this  is  used  in  an 
average  household  there  is  probably  some  waste  going  on.     The  poorer 
housekeepers,  who  fetch  their  bread,  get  it  weighed,  and  recei\ 
extra  slice  thrown  in  if  the  loaf  is  under  weight,  but  bread  brought  to 
use  is  not  weighed  by  the  baker.     Fancy  bread  is  never  weighed, 
brown  bread  is  usually  made  and  sold  as  fancy  bread,  it  is  con- 
sr,m<  as  a  luxury. 


1394  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

When  the  Dough  is  well  kneaded,  it  is  left  to  stand  for  some  time,  and 
then,  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  swell,  it  is  divided  into  loaves.  After  this 
process  it  is  again  left  to  stand,  when  it  once  more  swells  up,  and  mani- 
fests for  the  last  time  the  symptoms  of  fermentation.  It  is  then  put 
into  a  hot  pven,  where  the  water  contained  in  the  dough  is  partly  evapor- 
ated, and  the  loaves  swell  up  again,  while  a  yellow  crust  begins  to  form 
upon  the  surface.  When  the  bread  is  sufficiently  baked,  the  bottom 
crust  is  hard  and  resonant  if  struck  with  the  knuckles,  and  the  crumb 
is  elastic,  rising  again  in  its  place  if  pressed  with  the  fingers.  It  will 
take  from  30  to  45  minutes  to  bake  in  an  ordinary  oven,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  loaves,  but  a  full  2-lb.  loaf  will  never  bake  in  less  than 
45  minutes,  and  if  the  oven  is  not  over-hot  a  much  longer  time  is  neces- 
sary. 

New  Bread. — One  word  as  to  the  unwholesomeness  of  new  bread 
and  hot  rolls.  When  bread  is  taken  out  of  the  oven  it  is  full  of 
moisture  ;  the  starch  is  held  together,  and  the  bread,  instead  of  being 
crushed  so  as  to  expose  each  grain  of  starch  to  the  saliva,  is  formed 
by  the  teeth  into  leathery,  poreless  masses,  which  are  highly  indigest- 
ible. Bread  should  always  be  at  least  a  day  old  before  it  is  eaten  ; 
and,  if  properly  made,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place,  ought  to  be  perfectly 
soft  and  palatable  at  the  end  of  3  or  4  days  ;  and  so  firmly  was 
this  believed  to  be  the  case,  that  an  Act  of  Parliament  was  once 
passed  making  it  illegal  to  sell  bread  that  was  less  than  24  hours 
old. 

Baking-powder  is  largely  used  to  vesiculate  bread  and  cakes.  The 
carbonic  acid  gas  in  this  case  is  formed  by  the  effervescence  of  bi- 
carbonate of  soda  with  some  acid,  usually  tartaric,  but  sometimes 
hydrochloric.  Many  different  kinds  are  sold,  but  each  differs  but 
slightly  from  the  other.  Some  are  coloured  yellow  and  are  known  as 
egg-powder  ;  some  go  by  the  name  of  yeast-powder  ;  but  the  action 
of  all  is  practically  the  same.  A  common  recipe  for  home-made  baking- 
powder  is  10  ozs.  of  ground  rice,  9  ozs.  of  carbonate  of  soda,  5  ozs.  of 
tartaric  acid,  well  mixed  and  sifted  together  ;  the  rice  is  merely  used 
to  increase  the  bulk,  and  so  to  facilitate  its  mixing  with  the  flour.  If 
a  teaspoonful  of  this  or  any  other  baking-powder  is  put  in  a  tumbler 
of  water,  if  effervesces  rapidly ;  presently  the  effervescence  subsides, 
and  there  remains  water,  with  the  rice  undissolved,  and  some  tartrate 
of  soda.  In  the  same  way  it  effervesces  in  a  cake,  or  in  dough,  and 
bubbles  up  exactly  as  in  the  case  of  the  water.  As  the  water  soon  sub- 
sided, so  will  the  dough,  the  gas  will  escape,  and  there  will  remain  flour, 
water,  and  tartrate  of  soda  settled  down  into  a  solid  mass.  Such  is 
the  action  of  baking-powder  on  bread  or  pastry,  if  the  latter  is  not 
baked  at  once.  The  whole  value  of  the  powder  is  lost.  But  if  it  is 
put  in  the  oven  while  the  gas  is  held  in  the  dough,  it  will  rise  still  further, 
because  gas  or  air  always  expands  with  heat,  and  long  before  the  gas 
escapes  the  dough  will  be  baked  into  shape  with  all  the  bubbles  in  it, 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1395 

and  is  then  called  "  light."  It  is  not  a  good  word,  for  whether  a  loaf 
is  "  light  "  or  "  heavy  "  it  weighs  the  same,  except  in  so  far  as  it  may 
be  too  wet  if  it  is  not  sufficiently  baked ;  the  difference  will  consist  in 
the  size  and  relative  weight  of  the  two,  and  not  in  the  actual  weight. 
A  "  light  "  loaf  is  puffed  up  to  look  larger. 

All  goods,  therefore,  made  with  baking-powder,  should  be  put  into 
the  oven  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  moistening  ingredient  is  added, 
or  the  result  will  be  a  very  indifferently  aerated  cake  or  loaf.  This 
rule  applies  generally  to  all  kinds  of  baking-powders,  cakes,  pastry, 
or  bread. 

Another  rule  is  to  use  the  coldest  water  and  to  mix  it  in  a  cold  place. 
We  have  seen  that  the  rising  of  a  loaf  depends  on  the  sudden  expansion 
by  heat  of  the  air  it  contains,  and  the  greater  the  difference  between 
the  coldness  of  the  air  as  it  goes  into  the  oven,  and  the  heat  of  the  oven 
itself,  the  more  it  will  rise,  always  provided  that  the  oven  is  not  so  fierce 
as  to  scorch  and  stiffen  the  crust  before  the  inside  has  had  time  to  be 
heated.  Cakes  can  be  made  light  with  snow  instead  of  water,  even 
with  no  baking-powder,  because  of  the  extreme  coldness  of  the  air  that 
is  mixed  into  them. 

In  this  kind  of  bread-making  the  gas  is  formed  in  the  dough,  but 
not  of  it,  as  with  yeast,  and,  therefore,  the  taste  of  the  wheat  is  more 
perfectly  preserved. 

Other  Acids  used. — When  hydrochloric  acid  is  used,  instead  of  tartaric 
acid,  or  cream  of  tartar,  it  combines  with  the  soda  to  form  chloride 
of  sodium,  better  known  as  common  salt.  It  is  more  difficult  to  mix 
than  the  dry  acid,  but  it  has  the  advantage  that  common  salt  is  always 
harmless,  while  tartrate  of  soda  is  an  aperient,  having  exceptional 
action  upon  a  few  constitutions.  There  are  persons  who  cannot  eat 
bread  made  with  baking-powder  ;  this  is  probably  the  reason.  Such 
an  idiosyncrasy  is,  it  must  be  confessed,  very  rare  ;  and  the  commercial 
acid  (hydrochloric)  often  contains  arsenic  in  small  quantities,  which  is 
a  very  undesirable  element  for  bread-making  purposes,  and  at  the 
present  time  it  is  very  seldom  used  for  aerating  bread  or  anything  else. 
A  commoner  objection  to  baking-powder  is  that  it  leaves  a  soapy  taste, 
resulting  from  an  excess  of  soda.  Excess  of  acid  is  far  less  objection- 
able and  less  common.  Other  acids  may  be  used,  as,  for  instance,  sour 
milk,  or  butter-milk,  which  makes  excellent  bread  with  bicarbonate  of 
soda.  Liebig  recommended  acid  phosphates  of  lime,  chloride  of  sodium, 
and  bicarbonate  of  soda,  which  very  gently  and  slowly  evolves  the  gas, 
and,  therefore,  makes  better  bread  than  substances  that  effervesce 
quickly  and  are  soon  still.  Sesqui  carbonate  of  ammonia  is  also  used 
by  bakers  to  make  cakes.  It  is  extremely  volatile,  and  must  be  kept 
in  a  tightly-stoppered  bottle. 

Eggs  act  in  two  ways.  They  increase  the  tenacity  of  the  dough,  so 
that  it  better  retains  the  air,  and  when  they  are  beaten  to  a  froth,  they 
carry  a  good  deal  of  air  into  the  cake 


1396  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

"  Graham"  Bread  is  also  made  of  brown  meal  and  water,  without  any 
ferment  other  than  the  small  amount  of  cerealine  contained  in  the  wheat 
grain  itself.  It  has  not  come  into  very  general  use  in  this  country,  but 
in  America  a  considerable  quantity  is  consumed. 

Aerated  Bread. — As  a  matter  of  fact  all  bread  is  aerated,  but  at  the 
present  day  there  is  a  special  bread  that  is  known  to  the  public  as 
"  Aerated  Bread."  It  is  made  by  a  company  in  London,  and  has  been 
on  sale  for  a  considerable  time.  The  bread  is  rather  close,  but  very 
sweet  and  white  in  colour,  and  is  made  by  a  process  patented  by  Dr. 
Dauglish,  of  Malvern.  The  flour  is  first  put  in  a  spherical  vessel  with 
the  salt,  and  the  vessel  is  closed  up,  the  atmospheric  air  is  exhausted, 
and  then  water  and  carbonic  gas  are  forced  into  the  globe,  and  a 
series  of  beaters  or  arms  revolved  by  steam  power  convert  the  raw 
material  into  dough.  This,  when  thoroughly  mixed,  and  of  course 
aerated,  is  discharged  into  tins,  or  long  loaves,  which  are  immediately 
put  into  the  oven,  where  they  are  allowed  to  bake  in  the  same  way 
as  other  bread.  It  will  be  noted  where  the  chief  points  of  difference 
come  in.  It  is  made  entirely  by  machinery,  and  is  untouched  by 
hand  during  the  whole  process,  and  this  is  one  of  the  inducements 
held  out  to  the  public  to  purchase  it. 

Machine-made  Bread. — At  the  present  time  the  process  of  bread-making 
is  worked  upon  more  scientific  principles  than  hitherto,  and  with  the 
attraction  of  a  capital  to  the  baking-trade,  the  endeavour  seems  to  be 
made  to  keep  well  up  to  date  as  regards  machinery,  so  that  to-day  there  is 
scarcely  a  town  of  any  importance  without  a  bakery  supplied  with  the 
most  modern  machinery  and  appliances.  Machine-made  bread  is 
probably  not  any  better  than  the  hand-made  variety  ;  but,  although 
there  may  be  many  who  prefer  the  hand-made,  there  can  be  no  doubt 
that  in  the  near  future  all  bakeries  will  be  equipped  with  machinery. 

From  a  hygienic  point  of  view,  machine-made  bread  is  to  be  preferred 
to  hand-made,  and  as  the  public  appreciate  the  fact  that  the  heavy 
labour  of  dough-making  is  more  effectively  done  by  machine  than  by 
hand,  there  is  no  doubt  they  will  eventually  insist  upon  having  it. 

At  the  present  day,  bakehouses  in  all  parts  of  the  country  are  periodi- 
cally visited  by  an  inspector.  There  is  therefore  very  little  likelihood 
of  bread  being  manufactured  under  insanitary  conditions ;  in  fact,  the 
tendency  is  all  the  other  way — to  gradually  raise  the  sanitary  standard, 
and  thus  blot  out  many  of  the  old-fashioned  bakehouses  that  were 
sanitary  enough  in  the  old  days,  according  to  their  theories,  but  are 
altogether  old-fashioned  and  behind  the  times  now.  If  there  is  any 
dark  spot  in  the  baking- trade  it  is  truly  the  fault  of  the  local  authorities 
and  their  inspectors,  who  have  power  of  entry  under  a  variety  of  Acts  of 
Parliament  to  inspect,  insist  upon  alterations,  or  close  any  bakery  that 
is,  in  their  opinion,  in  an  insanitary  condition,  and  if  they  fail  in  their 
duty,  it  is  for  the  public  to  interfere  for  their  own  protection,  and  insist 
upon  the  law  being  properly  carried  out. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1397 

Mixed  Breads. — Rye  bread  is  hard  of  digestion,  and  requires  longer 
and  slower  baking  than  wheaten  bread.  It  is  better  when  made  with 
leaven  of  wheaten  flour,  rather  than  yeast,  and  turns  out  lighter.  It 
should  not  be  eaten  till  2  days  old.  It  will  keep  a  long  time.  A  good 
bread  may  be  made  by  mixing  rye-flour,  wheat-flour,  and  rice  paste  in 
equal  proportions  ;  also  by  mixing  rye,  wheat  and  barley.  In  Norway 
it  is  said  that  they  only  bake  their  barley  bread  once  a  year,  such  is  its 
"  keeping  "  quality.  Indian  cornflour,  mixed  with  wheat-flour  (half- 
and-half)  makes  a  nice  bread  ;  but  it  is  not  considered  very  digestible, 
though  it  keeps  well.  Rice  cannot  be  made  into  bread,  nor  can  pota- 
toes ;  but  £  potato-flour  in  £  wheaten  flour  makes  a  tolerably  good 
loaf.  A  very  good  bread,  better  than  the  ordinary  kind,  and  of  a 
delicious  flavour,  is  said  to  be  produced  by  adopting  the  following 
recipe  : — Take  10  parts  of  wheat-flour,  5  parts  of  potato-flour,  i  part  of 
rice  paste;  knead  together,  add  the  yeast,  and  bake  as  usual.  This 
would  not  prove  any  cheaper  than  ordinary  wheaten  bread  at  the 
present  day,  because  the  potato-flour  and  rice  are  dearer  than  flour. 
In  times  of  great  scarcity,  when  the  people  of  this  country  depended 
chiefly  upon  their  own  productions  for  their  food,  nearly  all  the  vege- 
table products  of  the  garden  were  used  for  the  purpose  of  making  bread, 
and  mixed  breads  were  as  often  met  with  as  brown  or  wheaten  breads  ; 
this  was,  however,  before  the  abolition  of  the  Corn  Laws,  when  wheat 
was  over  loos,  per  quarter,  and  the  quartern  loaf  cost  is.  4d.  But  at 
the  present  day,  with  every  country  in  the  world  anxious  to  supply 
our  markets  with  the  best  of  their  products,  there  does  not  seem  much 
likelihood  of  Englishmen  being  reduced  to  such  straits  again,  and 
being  compelled  to  feed  on  the  so-called  mixed  breads. 

It  will  be  seen  by  what  has  been  previously  stated  that  a  very  con- 
siderable amount  of  care  and  skill  is  requisite  to  produce  a  sweet  whole- 
some loaf.  If  the  instructions  given  in  the  following  pages  are  carefully 
carried  out,  there  should  be  no  difficulty  in  making  a  palatable  and  satisfy- 
ing loaf,  whose  merits  will  be  appreciated  by  all  who  partake  of  it.  In 
making  bread,  no  matter  how  large  or  small  the  quantity,  it  is  of  the 
first  importance  that  everything  should  be  scrupulously  clean,  sweet 
and  dry.  If  these  precautions  are  omitted  the  bread  will  not  turn  out 
as  desired.  Before  commencing,  see  that  everything  is  in  readiness, 
so  that  it  will  be  unnecessary  to  leave  off  in  the  middle.  Have 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  water  at  hand  for  the  purpose,  and  also  some 
flour  in  a  tin  or  basin  in  which  to  dip  the  hands  and  rub  them  clean 
when  necessary.  When  you  have  finished  with  it,  run  the  flour 
through  a  sieve,  and  any  pieces  that  may  have  fallen  from  the 
hands  should  be  added  to  the  dough  and  well  kneaded  in.  If  no  more 
than  £  a  bushel  of  flour  (8  quarterns)  is  being  worked,  a  large  red  earth- 
enware pan  will  answer  admirably  to  mix  it  in.  It  should,  after  being 
thoroughly  washed  out  and  dried,  be  set  out  on  a  strong  kitchen  chair 
(from  which  the  back  has  been  removed)  in  front  of  the  kitchen  fire; 


1398  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

then  turn  the  flour  into  the  pan,  cover  it  over  with  a  clean  cloth,  and 
allow  it  to  stand  until  the  chill  passes  off  before  commencing.  This 
is  of  course  more  necessary  in  winter  than  in  the  summer,  and  as  there 
is  only  a  small  quantity  of  dough  it  will  very  soon  get  cold  and  be  spoilt 
if  it  is  not  properly  taken  care  of ;  and,  since  much  depends  upon  the 
warmth,  the  whole  process  should  be  performed  in  front  of  the  kitchen 
fire  if  the  weather  is  at  all  cold  and  chilly.  At  the  same  time,  under 
no  consideration  must  the  dough  become  too  hot,  for  heat  will  kill  the 
yeast  sooner  than  cold,  and  the  result  in  each  case  would  be  the  same — 
heavy  and  unsatisfactory  bread.  Heavy  bread  is  the  result  of  in- 
sufficient fermentation,  and  sour  bread  is  caused  by  over  fermentation  ; 
it  will  therefore  be  seen  how  desirable  it  is  to  adopt  just  the  happy 
medium — to  have  the  water  neither  too  hot  nor  too  cold,  to  give  the 
yeast  sufficient  time  to  work  or  ferment  properly,  but  not  long  enough 
to  work  itself  sour.  This  happy  medium  will  soon  be  arrived  at  by 
experience.  On  no  account  must  the  pan  containing  the  dough  be 
placed  close  enough  to  the  fire  for  the  heat  to  penetrate  and  form  a 
crust  on  the  inside  of  the  pan,  for  that  would  presently  be  mixed  into 
the  remainder  of  the  dough,  and  result  in  dark,  heavy  patches  in  the 
bread.  Care  must  also  be  taken  by  keeping  the  dough  sufficiently 
well  covered  to  prevent  it  from  becoming  skinned  over,  producing  a 
very  unsightly  appearance  should  it  get  on  the  outside  of  the  loaves 
when  they  are  moulded  or  shaped  up  ready  for  the  oven  ;  such  loaves 
are  known  generally  as  "  slut's  farthings."  When  making  the  dough,  it 
is  of  the  greatest  importance  that  it  should  be  thoroughly  well  kneaded  ; 
in  fact,  up  to  a  certain  point,  the  more  kneading  given  to  the  bread 
the  better  it  will  be,  while  if  it  is  not  kneaded  sufficiently  the  dough 
may  run  flat  in  the  oven,  and  not  spring  as  it  should.  When  freeing 
the  hands  of  paste  after  the  dough  has  been  made,  very  particular 
notice  should  be  taken  that  the  scraps  are  first  well  rubbed  into  the 
dough,  and  then  kneaded  into  the  mass,  leaving  the  finished  dough 
perfectly  smooth  and  clear. 

When  making  the  dough,  keep  all  the  flour  in  the  pan,  and  do  not 
get  it  all  over  the  sides  of  the  pan  on  to  the  floor,  for,  besides  being 
wasteful,  it  is  a  very  dirty  and  slovenly  proceeding. 

Another  Word  about  Yeast. — In  making  bread  for  household  purposes, 
residents  in  towns  will  find  no  difficulty  in  procuring  fresh  yeast  from 
the  bakers  or  corn-chandlers,  and  most  probably  the  yeast  obtained 
will  be  the  distillery,  French,  or  German  article.  There  is  no  very 
great  difference  between  these  yeasts,  and  either,  or  all  of  them,  may 
be  depended  upon  for  being  effective.  As  a  general  rule  the  distiller's 
yeast  would  be  the  most  vigorous  and  the  sweetest  for  the  purpose. 
Of  late  years  the  great  distillery  companies  have  made  some  special 
efforts  to  meet  the  bakers'  requirements  in  this  particular,  and  have 
succeeded  in  turning  out  some  of  the  best  yeast  that  can  be  pro- 
duced, and  it  is  certain  that  the  yeast  that  the  baker  considers  good 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,   AND  CAKES       1399 

enough  for  his  bread  would  be  good  and  reliable  enough  for  domestic 
use. 

On  the  other  hand,  if  resident  in  the  country  and  far  distant  from 
a  town,  there  may  be  some  difficulty  in  procuring  suitable  yeast  for 
bread-making  purposes,  in  which  case  it  would  be  advisable  to  make 
it,  and  thus  be  practically  independent.  Instructions  will  be  found 
for  making  yeast  suitable  for  bread-making  and  other  purposes  for 
which  yeast  is  required,  and  as  it  improves  if  properly  kept,  there 
can  be  no  objection  to  brewing  the  yeast  once  a  month  ;  but  it  must 
be  stored  in  a  cool  place,  and  some  of  the  old  yeast  saved  to  start 
the  new  brewing  each  time,  for  if  some  yeast  has  not  been  reserved  for 
this  purpose,  suddenly  the  supply  of  yeast  may  fail,  with  no  means  of 
making  a  fresh  stock.  Malt  and  hops  for  the  purpose  can  be  procured 
from  the  corn-chandlers. 

In  the  past  brewer's  yeast  was  very  extensively  used  for  home-baking, 
but,  principally  because  it  was  not  always  to  be  depended  upon,  was 
often  bitter  in  taste  and  dark  in  colour,  it  has  dropped  almost  out  of 
use.  As  brewer's  yeast  may  possibly,  in  some  cases,  be  the  only  avail- 
able supply,  it  will  be  necessary  to  cleanse  it,  or  remove  the  bitterness 
and  dark  colour.  This  can,  to  some  extent,  be  done  by  washing  the 
yeast  in  a  little  water,  in  the  following  manner  : — Put  the  yeast  into 
a  large  jug,  add  a  small  pinch  of  carbonate  of  soda,  and  fill  up  the  jug 
nearly  to  the  top  with  clean  water,  stir  it  up  well  to  mrx  it  thoroughly 
with  the  water,  and  then  stand  it  aside  in  a  cool  place  to  settle. 

The  yeast  will  settle  at  the  bottom  in  a  thick  sediment,  and  the  liquor 
poured  off  will  take  away  a  considerable  portion  of  the  dark  colour 
and  bitter  flavour.  If  this  process  is  repeated  2  or  3  times,  it  will  result 
in  a  very  good-flavoured  yeast  being  left  behind,  eminently  suitable  for 
bread-making  purposes. 

Many  of  the  brewing  firms  make  a  practice  of  cleansing  their  yeast 
in  this  fashion,  and  then,  after  all  the  moisture  has  been  pressed  out,  it 
is  sold  as  Brewer's  Compressed,  and  is  used  largely  for  bread-making 
purposes  by  bakers ;  but,  as  this  yeast  is  somewhat  slow  and  sluggish 
in  action,  it  is  not  used  for  any  other  purpose  to  any  very  great  extent. 
It  makes  a  very  sweet-eating  loaf,  and  is  generally  appreciated. 

Final  Advice  about  Flour. — Although  the  finest  flour  procurable  may  be 
used,  it  will  not  always  turn  out  the  perfection  of  bread,  for  various 
reasons.  But  at  the  same  time  good  bread  cannot  be  made  from  bad  or 
indifferent  flour  ;  it  is,  therefore,  always  advisable  to  use  the  best  flour 
which  can  be  obtained  for  the  purpose.  Of  course  the  sine  qud  non  of  home 
baking  is  to  make  bread  cheaper  than  it  could  be  procured  from  the 
bakers,  but  if  a  worse  article  than  the  tradesman  supplies  is  produced, 
nothing  is  gained  by  home  baking.  The  finest  flour  procurable  in  this 
country  is  "  Vienna,"  or  "Hungarian,"  as  it  is  more  generally  called, 
and  it  is  always  the  dearest  flour  on  the  market,  sometimes  as  much 
as  145.  per  sack  (280  Ibs.)  dearer  than  the  best  town-made  whites.  Of 


1400  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

course  the  price  of  flour  fluctuates  according  to  the  law  of  supply  and 
demand,  and  all  kinds  of  flour  are  governed  by  the  standard  of  House- 
holds. Thus  when  Households  are  quoted  at  245.  per  sack,  the  better 
qualities  will  be  correspondingly  dearer.  Whites,  for  instance,  would 
be  245.,  and  the  Patents  probably  28s.  6d.  to  293.  6d.  ;  Vienna  would 
then  be  sold  at  about  405.  With  the  cheaper  flours,  which  are  also 
inferior  in  quality,  the  drop  in  price  is  not  at  so  large  a  rate,  and  the 
flour  coming  next  below  "  Households,"  and  known  as  No.  2's  would 
cost  from  2 is.  6d.  to  223.  6d.  This  is  one  of  the  cheapest  flours  milled 
by  English  millers,  or,  strictly  speaking,  the  lowest  grade  they  put  upon 
the  markets.  The  country-milled  flour  would  then  be  about  23.  per  sack 
cheaper  than  town  flour  of  the  same  grade,  but  not  of  the  same  quality, 
for  the  town  miller  will  have  a  wider  field  to  select  his  "  grist  "  or  wheat 
from  than  the  country  miller,  and  in  that  way  will  use  some  of  the 
choicest  foreign  wheats  along  with  the  best-grown  in  this  country,  while 
the  country  miller  will  depend  largely  upon  local  growths,  which  prac- 
tically give  the  characteristics  to  the  flour  produced.  If  the  miller 
grinds  with  the  idea  of  supplying  the  town  bakers,  he  will  add  in  some 
foreign  wheat  to  give  tone  to  the  flour,  and  in  all  likelihood  will  mark 
it  under  a  special  brand  ;  but  his  principal  aim  would  generally  be  to 
give  good  colour  and  sweet  flavour,  while  the  town  miller  would  com- 
bine these  two  characteristics,  and  add  "  strength,"  which  is  of  the 
utmost  importance  for  bread-making  purposes.  The  loaf  produced 
from  the  country  flour  will  almost  invariably  be  small  in  size,  close  in 
texture,  and  pleasantly  sweet,  besides  being  good  in  colour  ;  the  out- 
side crust  also  would  be  pale  and  somewhat  tough.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  loaf  made  from  town  flour  of  the  same  grade,  if  a  similar  process 
has  been  followed  in  turning  it  into  bread,  would  be  large  and  bulky, 
with  a  well-aerated,  yet  smooth  cut  in  crumb,  and  sweet,  but  not  quite 
so  sweet,  as  the  loaf  made  from  the  country-milled  flour  ;  the  outside 
crust  would  also  be  slightly  browner  in  colour,  and  crisp.  Vienna  flour, 
if  made  into  bread,  will  have,  to  some  extent,  the  characteristics  of 
both  these  flours  combined,  but  the  colour  of  the  crumb  will  be  con- 
siderably whiter,  and  the  texture  will  be  very  silky  and  even.  The 
outside  crust  will  be  tough.  In  this  connection  it  must  be  remembered 
that  although  Vienna  flour  has  been  used  that  does  not  constitute 
"  Vienna  Bread,"  which  is  made  by  a  special  process  and  baked  in  speci- 
ally constructed  ovens.  Reference  has  been  made  to  Vienna  flour  to 
show  its  superiority  in  baking  it  into  ordinary  bread. 

American  and  Canadian  flour  is  imported  into  the  country  in  vast 
quantities,  and  the  supply,  generally  speaking,  governs  the  markets  of 
the  world.  When  there  is  an  abundance  of  flour  from  those  countries 
bread  will  be  cheap,  provided,  of  course,  that  all  other  countries 
growing  wheat  have  their  average  crops,  and  do  not  need  to  import 
to  any  great  extent ;  but  should  one  or  two  of  the  wheat-consuming 
countries  be  "  short,"  the  market  will  be  correspondingly  influenced, 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1401 

and  the  price  will  be  raised  all  round.  The  finest  flour  imported  from 
America  is  known  as  "First  Patents,"  and  usually  commands  about 
2s.  per  sack  more  than  whites ;  but  in  years  of  plenty  it  will  be  almost 
as  cheap  as  "  Households,"  and  being  better  than  "  Whites,"  its  in- 
fluence upon  the  home  markets  is  apparent.  The  next  grade  is 
termed  "  Second  Patents,"  a  cheaper  quality  than  "  Straights,"  or 
commonly  termed  "  First  Baker's  "  ;  then  follows  "  Second  Baker's," 
which  is  lower  in  quality  than  the  other  three  ;  the  last  of  all,  a  very 
low  grade,  known  as  "  Red  Dog  ";  although  it  is  very  strong  from  a 
baking  point  of  view,  it  is  very  dark  in  colour,  and  is  used  principally 
in  poor  neighbourhoods,  in  conjunction  with  cheap  country  flour,  for 
the  purposes  of  making  cheap  bread.  This  flour  is  the  basis  of  the 
cheap  and,  to  some  extent,  nasty  bread  of  our  poor  neighbours,  but 
none  of  it  will  be  wanted  in  better  households,  for  the  better  the  bread 
the  less  is  required,  and  thus  even  the  dearest  is  the  best  and  cheapest 
in  the  end.  In  procuring  a  supply  of  flour  for  home  baking  it  is 
advisable  to  purchase  it  in  respectable  quantities,  and  let  it  be  a 
standard  brand,  one  that  the  miller  will  do  his  best  to  maintain, 
whether  it  is  English  or  foreign  stock.  The  brands  are  sufficiently 
numerous,  and  there  should  be  little  difficulty  in  making  a  selection 
that  would  be  suitable  for  the  purpose.  Usually  the  tradesman  would 
recommend  a  flour  that  would  answer  admirably,  and  would  doubtless 
keep  up  the  same  standard  of  excellence  all  the  year  round,  for,  having 
a  large  field  to  select  from,  he  will,  as  a  general  rule,  keep  his  flour  up 
to  a  certain  standard  of  excellence.  He  would  thus  be  able  to  supply 
flour  suitable  for  bread-making  and  other  purposes,  and  by  taking  it 
in  regular  quantities  at  stated  intervals,  it  would  be  to  his  own  interest 
to  study  the  requirements  of  his  customers  in  exactly  the  same  way  as 
the  larger  merchant  millers  are  attentive  to  the  requirements  of  their 
baker  customers. 

The  Oven. — At  a  not  very  remote  date  almost  every  house  in  the 
country  was  equipped  with  a  brick  oven  and  conveniences  for  making 
and  baking  bread,  and  even  at  the  present  time,  in  out-of-the-way 
districts,  they  are  still  to  be  found,  but  only  in  localities  where  the  baker 
is  not  easily  accessible.  But,  generally  speaking,  these  ovens  have 
disappeared,  and  where  they  do  exist  they  have  been  annexed  by  a 
villager  who,  as  a  matter  of  course,  constitutes  himself  the  village  baker, 
supplying  the  requirements  of  his  neighbours  to  their  mutual  advan- 
tage. Usually  the  oven  is  rather  a  primitive  affair,  but  very  solidly 
built  of  bricks  and  heated  with  wood,  which  is  put  directly  into  the 
oven,  set  on  fire,  and  allowed  to  burn  itself  out,  the  smoke  passing  away 
up  the  chimney  placed  just  outside  the  oven  door.  When  the  fire  has 
burnt  out,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  after  the  oven  is  heated,  all  the 
embers  are  raked  out,  and  the  oven  swabbed  out  with  a  piece  of  coarse 
sacking  tied  to  the  end  of  a  long  pole,  and  dipped  into  cold  water.  In 
this  way  the  oven  is  cleaned,  and  when  the  bread  is  ready  it  is  "  run  " 


1402  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

or  put  into  the  oven  with  a  "  peel."  The  door  is  closed,  and  is  allowed 
to  remain  undisturbed  for  at  least  45  minutes.  The  heat  of  the  oven, 
if  it  could  be  tested  with  a  thermometer,  would  be  found  to  vary  from 
400°  to  500°  Fahr.j  and  when  the  bread  is  done  the  oven  would  not 
register  more  than  200°  to  250°  Fahr.,  the  heat  having  been  practically 
used  up  in  baking  the  bread,  part  of  it  passing  off  into  the  atmosphere. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  the  "  wood  oven,"  so-called,  from  the  char- 
acter of  the  fuel  consumed,  turns  out  the  sweetest  bread,  which  cer- 
tainly has  a  flavour  peculiarly  its  own,  and  not  to  be  produced  by  any 
other  means,  proving  conclusively  that  wood  is  the  best  fuel  for  baking 
bread.  But  the  scarcity  of  wood  and  limitations  of  space  in  large 
centres  of  population  have  prohibited  its  use,  and  resort  is  had  to  coke, 
coal  and  gas,  which  are  burnt  in  a  variety  of  ways  to  produce  the  heat 
necessary  to  bake  bread.  Many  so-called  improvements  have  been  made 
in  the  construction  of  ovens  since  the  oven  described  came  into  use, 
and  at  the  present  time  the  baker  has  a  large  number  of  systems  to 
choose  from,  each  of  these  claiming  some  points  of  excellence  over  the 
others  ;  it  should  be  no  trouble,  therefore,  for  the  baker  to  select  an 
oven  that  will  meet  his  requirements.  In  a  private  house  this  is  of 
course  different,  and  the  oven  usually  found  in  the  kitchen  of  the  gener- 
ality of  houses  is  totally  unfit  to  bake  a  full  2-lb.  loaf  of  bread,  although 
it  will  answer  well  enough  for  small  rolls  and  fancy  loaves.  The  un- 
suitability  of  the  modern  oven  is  principally  due  to  thinness  of  the 
sides  and  the  fact  that  it  is  not  airtight ;  consequently  all  the  steam 
escapes,  rendering  the  bread  diy  and  the  crust  hard  and  chippy,  and 
not  moist  and  crisp  like  baker's  bread  or  bread  baked  in  a  large  brick- 
built  oven.  For  it  should  be  remembered  that  it  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  keep  all  the  steam  in  the  oven  when  baking  bread,  for  the  vapour 
assists  the  crust  to  assume  the  brightness  and  gloss  seen  on  new  bread, 
known  as  "  bloom."  The  ordinary  kitchen  oven,  constructed  of  iron, 
and  being  also  very  thick,  in  some  cases  becomes  red-hot,  and  thus  not 
only  scorches  and  burns  the  bread,  but  dries  up  the  steam  as  fast  as  it 
is  given  off  from  the  dough,  with  the  result,  as  before  stated,  that  a 
very  dry  crust  and  not  a  very  well  baked  crumb  is  produced. 

This  is  also  the  cause  of  the  very  thick  tough  crust  so  generally  met 
with  in  home-made  bread.  The  crust  is  so  quickly  formed  by  the  fierce 
heat  to  which  it  is  subjected,  that  it  does  not  allow  the  steam  with  the 
gases  generated  by  baking  to  escape  from  the  loaf,  and  they  are  in  a 
measure  evaporated  inside  the  skin  or  crust.  Then  when  the  bread  is 
drawn  from  the  oven  and  cools,  the  steam  is  absorbed  into  the  crust, 
making  it  tough.  It  is  very  necessary  that  the  oven  be  sufficiently 
hot  to  take  the  bread  thoroughly,  and  under  no  consideration  should 
bread  or  other  goods  be  baked  in  a  slack  oven,  or  the  result  will  be  a 
very  unsatisfactory  loaf  of  bread,  and  most  probably  other  goods  will 
also  be  spoilt.  Although  the  modern  oven  is  generally  unsatisfactory 
for  ordinary  loaf  bread,  it  will  bake  small  bread  and  fancy  bread  to 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1403 

perfection,  the  cause  of  failure  with  large  loaves  proving  the 
success  of  the  small.  Generally  speaking,  this  small  bread  requires 
a  quick,  sharp,  flash  heat  that  will  bake  the  loaves  quickly  and 
well.  Therefore  there  should  be  no  very  great  difficulty  in  supplying 
the  family  table  with  dainties  for  either  breakfast,  luncheon,  dinner  or 
tea,  and  where  it  is  necessary  to  bake  bread  in  a  town  where  gas  can 
be  procured,  there  is  nothing  that  will  be  so  satisfactory  as  a  gas  oven, 
failing  one  specially  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  baking  bread. 
Usually  the  gas  companies  let  out  these  stoves  on  hire,  and  so  great 
has  been  the  advantage  from  this  arrangement  that  it  will  be  found 
more  economical  to  use  a  gas  oven  than  an  ordinary  kitchener  for  the 
purpose.  It  should,  however,  be  remembered  that  there  are  many 
different  styles  of  gas  ovens,  and  it  is  therefore  advisable  to  state  what 
is  required  to  the  gas  company,  and  let  them  supply  a  suitable  stove 
for  the  particular  purpose  required.  In  using  a  gas  oven  it  should  be 
remembered  that  it  must  be  thoroughly  heated  before  the  bread  is  put 
in,  and  then  kept  at  a  good  heat  during  the  time  the  process  of  baking 
is  going  on  :  the  oven  door  must  be  kept  closed.  Some  gas  ovens  are 
provided  with  a  tiled  "  sole,"  or  bottom,  and  these  ovens  bake  excel- 
lent cottage  and  other  breads  that  are  desired  to  have  a  sweet  crusty 
bottom.  Usually  bread  baked  in  and  on  tins  or  metal  has  a  tough 
crust  that  is  not  generally  liked,  and  to  avoid  this  defect  it  is  advisable 
to  procure  some  new  red  house-tiles  and  fit  them  into  the  bottom  or 
shelf  of  the  oven.  By  this  means  a  more  satisfactorily  baked  loaf  will 
be  obtained  than  by  baking  it  on  the  iron.  With  the  generality  of 
kitchen  ovens  it  will  be  very  desirable  to  bake  the  bread  in  tins,  as  better 
results  will  be  obtained  than  by  putting  the  loaves  direct  upon  the  iron 
of  the  oven,  for  if  the  oven  is  used  for  all  kinds  of  domestic  purposes, 
there  will  be  every  probability  of  some  dirt  remaining  upon  the  ox-en 
from  burnt  fruit-juices,  or  boiled-over  fat,  which  would  be  very  un- 
desirable on  the  bottoms  of  the  loaves,  and  would  sometimes  add  a  very 
reeable  flavour  to  the  bread.  Of  course  it  is  possible  to  take  the 
shelves  out  and  scour  them,  but  there  is  always  the  liability  to  forget 
these  little  things  until  the  last  minute,  when  it  is  undesirable  to  do 
them,  and  they  are  neglected,  with  unfortunate  after-results.  It  is 
most  necessary  to  practise  the  utmost  cleanliness,  for  bread  is  very 
sensitive,  and  will  very  soon  absorb  a  very  undesirable  flavour  from 
anything  that  has  been  or  is  being  baked  with  it.  No  matter  whether 
the  flavour  is  pleasant  or  obnoxious,  it  should  not,  under  any  considera- 
tion, be  allowed  to  impart  it  to  the  bread.  On  all  occasions  bake  bread 
by  itself. 

To  Keep  Bread. — One  of  the  most  important  points  in  connection  with 

home  baking  is  to  keep  the  bread  in  good  condition  for  the  table  after 

it  is  baked.     To  do  this  it  is  necessary  to  commence  at  the  beginning, 

and  uhen  the  bread  is  drawn  from  the  oven  stand  it  upon  racks  to  cool, 

the  air  can  circulate  freely  and  gradually  cool  it,  and  then  when 


1404  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

perfectly  cold,  to  wrap  each  loaf  up  separately  in  a  sheet  of  white  grease- 
proof paper,  and  then  in  a  sheet  of  thick  brown  or  other  waste  paper, 
and  set  the  loaves  in  rows  upon  a  shelf  in  a  room  or  pantry  free 
from  dampness  or  draught,  where  the  room  is  dry,  without  fire,  or 
artificial  light.  This  room  or  cupboard  should  be  in  a  shady  position 
and  well  protected  from  the  sun's  rays.  Bread  preserved  in  this  way — 
provided,  of  course,  it  has  been  properly  made  and  baked — will  keep 
good,  sweet  and  moist  for  10  days,  and  the  last  loaf  should  be  just  as  good 
as  the  first,  although  it  will  be  somewhat  drier,  but  not  to  any  appreci- 
able extent.  But  very  particular  attention  must  be  paid  to  the  pre- 
paration of  the  bread,  otherwise  it  will  not  keep  in  condition  for  any 
length  of  time.  If  bread  is  not  required  for  keeping  longer  than  a  week, 
it  can  be  stored  in  a  clean  earthenware  pan  furnished  with  a  lid,  but  if 
a  pan  or  crock  is  used  for  the  purpose,  it  must  be  thoroughly  scalded 
and  rinsed  out  every  week,  and  then  wiped  with  clean  cloths  and  dried 
before  the  fire,  and  allowed  to  become  quite  cold  before  storing  the 
bread  in  it.  If  required  to  be  kept  only  for  2  or  3  days  the  bread  will 
not  need  veiy  special  treatment,  but  will  keep  quite  well  on  shelves 
in  the  larder,  the  only  precaution  necessary  being  to  protect  the  loaves 
from  the  sun  and  draught.  Bread  can  also  be  kept  wrapped  in 
clean  cloths  for  a  few  days,  but  in  all  cases,  no  matter  how  it  is  kept, 
it  must  be  perfectly  cold  before  being  packed  away.  It  is  a  fact  that 
should  not  be  lost  sight  of,  that  the  larger  the  loaf  the  longer  it  retains 
its  moisture,  and  as  loaves  decrease  in  size  the  drier  they  will  become  ; 
all  kinds  of  small  bread  and  rolls  should  therefore  be  freshly  made  as 
frequently  as  possible.  As  a  rule  the  capacity  of  the  oven  will  be  limited, 
and  where  the  number  to  be  provided  for  is  large,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  bake  more  than  once  a  week,  and  where  this  is  the  case  no  very  extra- 
ordinary precautions  will  be  necessary,  as  all  the  bread  will  be  con- 
sumed comparatively  fresh.  It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  arrange  the 
baking  so  that  there  is  always  one  batch  in  hand  ;  it  will  not  then  be 
necessary  to  serve  hot  bread  at  the  table,  which  is  a  very  uneconomical 
practice.  A  loaf  may  be  somewhat  freshened  by  being  warmed  through 
in  a  slack  oven,  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  this  is  only  a  very 
primitive  method  of  toasting,  and  that  the  loaf  will  be  the  drier  for  the 
extra  baking.  Upon  no  consideration  be  persuaded  to  dip  the  bread 
into  water  of  any  description  before  placing  it  in  the  oven,  for  the  crust 
will  crack  all  over,  and  peel  off  in  flakes,  and  the  result  will  be  most 
unsatisfactory. 

INGREDIENTS  FOR  CAKES. 

Butter  is  of  the  first  importance  in  cake-making,  and  where  a 
rich  cake  is  desired  of  fine  flavour  and  keeping  qualities,  only  the 
best  butter  should  be  used.  But  in  most  instances  it  will  be  desir- 
able to  use  a  somewhat  cheaper  fat  for  the  purpose  of  cake-making. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1405 

especially  where  the  family  is  large  and  the  means  limited.  In  this 
case  lard,  dripping,  or  good  margarine  may  be  used  with  advantage, 
and  there  are  also  several  vegetable  fats  procurable  that  answer  very 
well  for  these  purposes ;  but  although  they  are  more  economical  in  price, 
and  some  of  them  are  richer  where  flavour  is  the  first  consideration, 
nothing  better  than  pure  butter  can  be  used.  So-called  cooking  butter 
is  in  too  many  instances  nothing  but  margarine,  but  there  should  be 
no  compunction  in  buying  margarine  under  its  right  name,  and  paying 
a  corresponding  low  figure  for  it.  In  this  connection  it  should  be  said 
that  the  very  cheapest  that  is  offered  should  not  be  purchased  ;  but 
for  about  6d.  per  Ib.  a  good  sweet  perfectly  wholesome  margarine  can 
be  procured  that  is  eminently  suitable  for  all  purposes  of  cake-making, 
and  will  give  results  almost  equal  to  pure  butter.  Of  late  years  so  many 
improvements  have  been  introduced  into  the  manufacture  of  margarine 
and  other  butter  substitutes  that  almost  an  expert  is  required  to  tell 
the  difference,  and  if  a  mixture  of  half  butter  and  half  margarine  is 
used,  there  are  few  who  could  tell  that  it  was  not  made  with  the  best 
butter  ;  and  a  good  sweet  margarine  is  to  be  preferred  to  a  bad  or  in- 
different butter. 

Eggs. — After  butter  the  eggs  next  claim  attention.  At  the  present 
time  eggs  are  imported  into  this  country  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 
Formerly  they  were  imported  from  France  only,  but  the  supply  being 
unequal  to  the  demand,  other  countries  soon  began  to  forward  their  sur- 
plus eggs  to  the  English  market,  and  the  result  is  that  a  good  supply  of 
the  finest  eggs  for  cooking  purposes  is  always  obtainable.  For  making 
cakes,  eggs  that  are  from  7  to  14  days  old,  provided  they  have  been 
properly  kept,  are  best,  and  the  reason  is  apparent.  The  longer  an 
egg  is  kept,  up  to  a  certain  point,  the  less  moisture  it  contains,  for  the 
shell  of  a  new-laid  egg  is  perfectly  full,  and  if  shaken  no  sound  emanates 
from  it ;  but  if  the  egg  is  kept  for  a  few  days  and  then  shaken,  it  will 
give  out  a  rattle  increasing  in  sound  as  the  egg  gets  older.  This  is 
caused  by  a  certain  amount  of  the  water  in  the  albumen,  or  white,  drying 
out  into  the  shell  and  air,  and  thus  the  albumen  is  stronger  and  the  yolk 
more  solid  for  being  kept  ;  and  the  reason  these  eggs  are  better  for  cake- 
making  is  that  the  ingredients  will  only  take  a  limited  quantity  of  liquid, 
and  the  deficiency  must  be  made  up  with  milk,  which  is  richer  than  the 
water  that  has  evaporated  from  the  eggs.  Nor  is  this  the  only  advan- 
tage. The  whites  will  whip  up  better  and  give  more  body  than  fresh 
eggs,  and  therefore  more  lightness  to  the  cakes,  for  the  white  being 
more  solid  and  stronger  in  every  way  retains  the  air  better  after  it  is 
beaten  in.  But  when  eggs  are  used  for  these  purposes,  it  is  important 
that  each  egg  is  broken  into  a  cup,  and  carefully  tested  by  its  smell, 
to  guard  against  any  egg  that  may  be  bad,  and  especially  a  musty  one, 
which,  were  it  added  to  the  cake,  would  spoil  the  whole  of  the  work 
and  render  it  uneatable.  When  breaking  the  eggs  make  sure  that  they 
are  useable,  turn  them  into  a  basin  or  other  suitable  vessel,  and  cover 


1406  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

them   over  with  a  sheet  of  paper  to  keep  out  all  dirt,  until  they  are 
required  for  use. 

Sugar. — Refined  sugars  can  now  be  procured  at  so  low  a  price,  already 
ground  and  pulverized,  that  it  is  more  economical  to  buy  it  in  this  form 
than  to  use  loaf  sugar  and  pound  it,  for,  besides  the  trouble,  it  also  in- 
volves some  waste  and  loss  of  time,  for  powrdered  sugar  is  no  dearer 
than  loaf  sugar,  and  if  it  cannot  be  procured  from  the  grocers,  a  baker 
who  makes  small  confectionery  goods  would  be  willing  to  supply  the 
quantity  required. 

Fruit. — With  the  introduction  of  machinery  for  fruit  cleaning  pur- 
poses, currants  can  be  procured  comparatively  clean,  and  need  only  a 
rub  in  a  dry  cloth,  and  picking  over  to  remove  any  larger  sprigs  and 
stones  that  may  have  escaped  the  machine,  to  render  them  fit  for  use. 
In  almost  every  case  washing  is  not  at  all  necessary ;  in  fact,  washing 
the  currants  deprives  them  of  some  of  their  goodness,  and,  therefore, 
is  not  only  a  waste  of  time,  but  waste  of  material,  and  makes  the 
cake  heavy.  Sultanas,  although  they  are  no  doubt  cleaned,  require 
carefully  picking  over,  and  a  good  rub  on  a  coarse  sieve  will  remove 
almost  the  whole  of  the  sprigs,  which  are  a  very  objectionable  in- 
gredient in  a  cake.  Raisins  should  in  all  cases  be  stoned,  and  if  a 
large  quantity  has  to  be  prepared,  a  small  machine  suitable  for  the 
purpose  can  be  procured  from  the  household  stores  or  ironmongers 
for  a  few  shillings.  It  is  very  effective  in  its  operations,  and  frees 
the  raisins  from  stones  in  an  incredibly  short  time,  and,  contrary  to 
the  general  opinion,  does  not  take  out  more  of  the  flesh  of  the  raisins 
than  hand-picking.  Glace  cherries,  pineapple  and  ginger  are  used 
in  cake-making.  They  are  procurable  from  the  grocers  in  quantities 
as  required,  but  as  the  price  is  rather  high,  they  are  used  but  spar- 
ingly. Cocoanut,  almonds,  walnuts,  and  other  nuts,  are  sometimes 
used  in  cakes,  but  with  the  exception  of  almonds  and  cocoanuts,  very 
small  quantities  of  the  others  are  used. 

The  Almonds,  before  use,  require  to  be  blanched.  This  is  done  by 
putting  the  almonds  into  a  basin  and  pouring  boiling  water  over  them. 
When  they  have  scalded  for  a  short  time  their  jackets  are  easily  re- 
moved. When  blanched  they  should  be  dried  in  the  oven.  There 
are  very  many  varieties  of  the  almond.  The  largest  and  dearest  are 
the  Jordan,  and  the  cheapest  are  termed  Barbary.  There  are  both 
sweet  and  bitter  almonds,  the  latter  being  used  but  sparingly  for 
flavouring  purposes.  Almonds  can  be  purchased  already  blanched, 
either  whole,  shred,  chopped,  or  flaked,  as  desired,  and  if  large  quan- 
tities are  required  it  is  cheaper  to  procure  them  already  prepared. 
Ground  almonds  are  used  for  icings,  paste,  macaroons,  ratifias,  and 
biscuits,  and  are  procurable  prepared  all  ready  for  use.  Cocoanut  is 
sometimes  liked,  and  for  all  purposes  desiccated  nut  can  be  used.  It 
is  sold  in  shreds,  strips,  and  cither  fine  or  coarse,  also  sugared  and 
plain. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1407 

Flour  for  cakes  should  always  be  of  the  finest  quality  procurable, 
and  for  best  goods  Vienna  is  the  most  suitable  for  use,  and  will  also  give 
the  best  results.  But  for  all  ordinary  purposes  of  the  household,  what 
is  termed  "  Whites  "  is  suitable.  But  in  any  case  let  the  flour  be  dry 
to  the  touch  and  sweet  to  the  smell,  with  some  colour  and  strength. 

BISCUITS. 

Manufacture  of  Biscuits. — Since  the  establishment  of  the  large  modern 
biscuit  factories,  biscuits  have  been  produced  both  cheap  and  whole- 
some in  almost  endless  variety.  Their  actual  component  parts  are, 
perhaps,  known  only  to  the  various  makers  ;  but  there  are  several 
kinds  of  biscuits  which  have  long  been  in  use,  most  of  which  belong 
to  the  class  of  unfermented  bread,  and  are  perhaps  the  most  wholesome 
of  that  class.  In  cases  where  fermented  bread  causes  dyspepsia,  bis- 
cuits may  be  recommended  ;  in  many  instances  they  are  considered 
lighter,  and  less  liable  to  create  acidity.  The  name  is  derived  from 
the  French  biscuit,  or  "  twice-baked,"  because,  originally,  the  method 
of  baking  entirely  deprived  them  of  all  moisture,  to  ensure  their  keep- 
ing, but  although  that  process  is  no  longer  employed,  the  name  is  re- 
tained. The  use  of  this  kind  of  bread  on  land  is  general,  and  some 
varieties  are  luxuries  ;  but  at  sea,  biscuits  are  articles  of  the  first  neces- 
sity. Fancy  biscuits  contain  butter,  eggs,  milk,  and  various  flavour- 
ings. They  are  sold  in  enormous  quantities.  Sea  or  ship-biscuits  aiv 
made  of  wheat  flour,  from  which  only  the  coarsest  bran  has  been  separ- 
ated. Dough  is  made  up  as  stiff  as  it  can  be  worked,  and  is  then  formed 
into  shapes,  and  baked  in  an  oven  ;  after  which  the  biscuits  are  exposed 
in  lofts  over  the  oven  until  perfectly  dry,  to  prevent  them  from  becom- 
ing mouldy  when  stored.  Captains'  biscuits  are  made  in  a  similar 
manner,  but  of  finer  flour.  Particulars  of  the  different  kinds  and 
prices  will  be  found  in  the  marketing  portion  of  the  book. 


RECIPES    FOR    MAKING 

BREAD,   BISCUITS, 

AND   CAKES 

CHAPTER  XLVII 

Bread,  Biscuits,  Buns,  Cakes,  Muffins,  Crumpets,  Rolls, 
Toast,  Gingerbread,  Rusks,  Icing  and  Yeast 

Bread 

3306.— AMERICAN  BREAD.     (To  be  eaten  hot.) 

Ingredients. — i  breakfast-cupful  of  white  Indian  meal,  2  breakfast- 
cupfuls  of  flour,  3  eggs,  2^  cups  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  white 
sugar,  •§•  an  oz.  of  cream  of  tartar,  |-  of  an  oz.  of  carbonate  of  soda,  £  of 
an  oz.  of  salt. 

Method. — Sift  the  cream  of  tartar  and  soda  well  with  the  flour,  meal 
and  sugar  on  the  board,  make  a  "  bay,"  put  in  the  butter,  and  rub  with 
the  hand  until  smooth,  then  add  the  salt,  in  fine  powder,  and  break  in 
the  eggs  ;  give  them  a  good  rub  round  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers, 
then  add  the  milk,  and  wet  up  into  a  soft  smooth  paste.  Divide  it 
out  into  convenient-sized  pieces,  put  into  tins,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven.  When  done,  turn  out  on  to  a  clean  cloth  laid  on  a  plate,  and 
send  to  table. 

This  bread  should  be  eaten  hot  from  the  oven.  It  makes  a  very- 
acceptable  breakfast  dish.  When  cutting  the  bread,  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  press  it  heavily  ;  a  sharp  knife  must  therefore  be  used  with 
a  sawing  kind  of  motion,  for  this  is  the  only  possible  way  to  cut 
hot  bread  or  cakes  without  dragging  the  crumb  and  rendering  it  heavy 
and  sticky.  If  preferred,  the  bread  can  be  baked  in  small  patty- 
pans, and  when  cooked,  broken  open,  a  small  piece  of  butter  put  in,  and 
sent  to  table. 

Italian  Millet,  or  Great  Indian  Millet,  is  cultivated  in  Egypt  and  Nubia,  where  it  is  called 
dhourra,  and  is  used  as  human  food  and  also  for  the  fermentation  of  beer.  It  will  grow  on  poor 
soils,  and  is  extremely  productive.  Millet  has  been  introduced  into  Italy,  where  a  coarse  bread  is 
made  from  it;  and  it  is  also  employed  in  pastry  and  puddings,  and  used  for  feeding  horses  and 
domestic  fowls.  It  is  the  largest  variety  of  millet,  and  grows  to  the  height  of  6  feet,  but  it 
requires  a  warm  climate,  and  will  not  ripen  in  this  country.  A  yellow  variety,  called  "  Golden 
Millet,"  is  sold  in  the  grocers'  shops  for  making  puddings.  It  is  very  delicate  and  wholesome. 

1408 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1409 
3307.— BAKING-POWDER  BREAD. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  baking-powder,  £  of  an  oz.  of 
salt,  milk. 

Method. — First  rub  the  salt  to  fine  powder  on  the  table  with  a  knife, 
and  mix  it  and  the  baking-powder  into  the  flour  on  the  board  ; 
then  make  a  toy  in  the  centre  of  the  flour,  pour  in  about  i  pint  of 
milk,  knead  up  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  with  very  little  handling,  into 
a  nice  light  dough.  Divide  it  into  convenient  sized  loaves,  shape  them 
up,  wash  over  with  a  little  milk,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  It  is  very 
necessary  to  get  the  loaves  into  the  oven  with  the  greatest  despatch, 
for  the  baking-powder  very  soon  loses  its  virtue,  and  if  the  operation 
is  protracted  after  the  dough  is  moistened,  the  bread  will  be  heavy. 
Although  milk  is  given  as  one  of  the  ingredients,  water  may  be  used  if 
economy  is  a  consideration. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  6d. 

3308.— HOME-MADE    BREAD,    GOOD. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  brewer's  yeast,  i  Ib.  of  potatoes,  i  peck  and 
\  a  Ib.  of  flour,  2  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  \\  ozs.  of  salt. 

Method. — Procure  £  a  pint  of  good  brewer's  yeast,  fresh  from  the 
brewhouse,  and  see  that  it  weighs  at  least  3-$-  ozs.  Having  procured 
the  yeast,  boil  about  i  Ib.  of  potatoes  in  their  skins,  first  washing  them 
clean.  When  cooked,  strain  away  the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in,  turn 
into  a  clean  wooden  pail,  add  £  a  Ib.  of  flour,  and  pound  them  well  with 
the  end  of  a  rolling-pin,  then  add  2  quarts  of  cold  water,  stir  the  in- 
gredients up,  and  mix  well.  Put  i  peck  of  flour  into  a  large  pan,  make 
a  hole  in  the  centre,  place  a  couple  of  sticks  across  the  top,  set  a  sieve 
over  the  hole  in  the  centre,  and  strain  the  liquor  into  it,  using  more  water 
to  rinse  through  every  particle  of  the  potatoes,  leaving  the  skins  per- 
fectly clean  in  the  sieve  ;  now  add  the  £  pint  of  yeast,  and  stir  in  suffi- 
cient flour  to  make  a  thin  batter,  cover  over,  and  leave  the  mixture 
for  about  2  hours.  By  that  time  it  should  have  fermented  and  dropped 
about  i  inch.  Then  add  i\  ozs.  of  salt  and  sufficient  water  to  make 
the  flour  into  dough.  Knead  well,  and  leave  dry,  cover  over  with  a 
clean  cloth,  and  let  it  prove  for  i£  hours.  Then  knead  it  over,  and 
throw  out  on  to  the  board,  divide  into  convenient-sized  pieces,  mould 
or  make  up  into  suitable-shaped  loaves,  prove,  and  then  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven.  The  time  taken  to  bake  will  of  course  depend  upon  the 
size  of  the  loaves.  A  2-lb.  loaf  in  a  moderate  oven  will  take  from  20 
to  40  minutes,  and  larger  loaves  in  proportion. 

3309.— HOME-MADE  BREAD.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  peck  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  compressed  or  distillery  yeast, 
1 1  ozs.  of  salt,  3  quarts  of  water. 

z  z 


I4io  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Turn  the  flour  into  a  clean  pan,  and  make  a  "  bay,"  or  hole 
in  the  centre.  Let  the  water  be  about  80°  Fahr.,  or  blood-warm,  so 
it  feels  neither  hotter  nor  colder  than  the  hand  when  placed  in  the  water. 
Put  the  water  into  a  bowl,  add  the  yeast  and  salt,  and  stir  up  well  with 
the  hand  till  dissolved,  then  turn  it  into  the  bay,  and  make  up  into 
rather  a  stiff  dough  ;  knead  well,  and  leave  dry,  cover  over  with  a  clean 
cloth,  and  set  the  pan  of  dough  in  a  warm  place  to  prove  for  at  least 
2  hours,  then  give  it  another  good  kneading  and  drying  over,  and  leave 
it  for  another  hour  ;  turn  out  on  to  the  board,  divide  into  suitable- 
sized  pieces,  make  into  loaves,  prove  and  bake. 

3310.— INDIAN  CORNFLOUR  BREAD. 

Ingredients. — 7  Ibs.  of  flour,  i|  Ibs.  of  Indian  cornflour,  i|  ozs.  of 
yeast,  i  oz.  of  salt,  water. 

Method. — Wet  the  cornflour  with  \  a  pint  of  cold  water  in  a  large 
pan  or  basin,  and  then  scald  it  in  the  same  manner  as  for  a  blanc  mange 
by  pouring  over  about  i  pint  of  boiling  water,  stirring  well  all  the  time. 
Let  it  stand  to  get  cold,  and  when  the  hand  can  be  borne  in  it  without 
inconvenience,  add  the  yeast  dissolved  in  a  little  tepid  water.  Cover 
over,  and  let  the  mixture  stand  for  2  hours.  Put  the  flour  into  a  pan, 
and  make  a  well  in  the  centre  ;  dissolve  the  salt  in  another  quart  of 
warm  water,  add  it  to  the  scalded  cornflour,  well  mix,  turn  it  into  the 
flour  in  the  pan,  and  make  up  into  dough,  using  a  little  more  water  if 
necessary.  Let  the  dough  lie  well  covered  up  in  a  warm  place  to 
well  prove,  and  when  ready,  turn  out  on  to  the  board,  divide  off  into 
convenient  sized  pieces,  mould  up,  let  them  stand  to  prove,  and  then 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  This  bread  will  be  found  particularly  sweet, 
and  will  make  a  very  desirable  change  for  breakfast  or  tea.  The  crust 
will  be  very  pale  and  crisp. 

Time. — 2  or  3  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  8d. 

3311.— MALTED  BROWN  BREAD. 

Ingredients. — 3^  Ibs.  of  wholemeal,  £  an  oz.  of  salt,  \  an  oz.  of  yeast, 
i  oz.  of  malt  extract,  water. 

Method. — Put  the  meal  into  a  clean  pan,  make  a  "  bay  "  or  hole  in 
the  centre.  Dissolve  the  yeast  and  malt  extract  in  i£  pints  of  warm 
water,  turn  into  the  bay,  and  stir  in  about  \  of  the  meal,  cover  over 
with  a  clean  cloth,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  for  2  hours.  At  the  end 
of  that  time  add  the  salt  (rubbed  to  fine  powder  under  the  rolling-pin), 
and  mix  in  the  remainder  of  the  meal,  turn  it  out  on  the  board,  divide 
it  into  convenient-sized  loaves,  put  into  clean  greased  pans  or  tins, 
prove  for  i  hour,  then  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

This  process  will  make  a  very  nice,  sweet-eating  and  palatable  malt 
bread. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1411 
3312.— MILK  BREAD. 

Ingredients. — 4  Ibs.  of  Vienna  flour,  £  of  an  oz.  of  salt,  £  of  an  oz.  of 
yeast,  i  quart  of  milk  and  water. 

Method. — Make  the  milk  and  water  warm,  then  dissolve  the  salt  and 
yeast  in  it,  and  make  into  a  nice  smooth  dough.  Cover  over  with  a 
clean  cloth,  and  keep  the  dough  in  a  warm  place  for  3  hours  ;  at  the 
end  of  Jthat  time  turn  it  out  on  to  the  board,  and  give  it  a  good  knead- 
ing and  dusting  over  ;  cover  again,  and  keep  warm  for  i  hour  for  the 
dough  to  recover  itself,  then  divide  it  into  convenient-sized  pieces  and 
mould  them  up  round.  Let  them  stand  on  the  board,  and  cover  up 
with  a  cloth  to  prove.  When  light  enough,  wash  over  with  a  beaten- 
up  egg,  using  a  brush  for  the  purpose.  When  all  the  loaves  are  washed 
over,  take  a  sharp  knife  and  cut  them  five  or  six  times  cross-wise.  Now 
take  each  loaf  separately,  place  it  in  the  oven,  cover  over  with  a  square 
tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  heat.  Skimmed  milk,  or  halt  milk  and 
half  water,  may  be  used  if  economy  is  desired,  but  in  the  latter  case 
it  will  be  necessary  to  add  2  ozs.  of  butter  to  this  quantity. 

3313.— RICE  BREAD.     (Fr.— Pain  de  Riz.) 

Ingredients.— i  Ib.  of  rice,  7  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  salt,  i£  ozs.  of  com- 
pressed yeast,  water. 

Method. — Wash  the  rice  in  cold  water,  put  it  in  a  clean  saucepan, 
cover  with  water,  set  over  the  fire,  and  cook  until  tender.  Turn  the 
flour  into  a  clean  pan,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  put  in  the  boiled  rice, 
add  i  quart  pf  cold  water,  and  stir  up  gently  without  mixing  in  much 
flour  ;  test  the  heat,  and  if  cold  enough,  add  the  yeast,  dissolved  in 
another  pint  of  water,  stirring  it  into  the  rice  with  another  handful  of 
flour.  Cover  over  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  let  it  stand  for  2  hours,  then 
add  the  salt  in  fine  powder,  and  make  into  dough,  using  any  more  water 
that  may  be  necessary  for  the  purpose.  Cover  over,  and  leave  the 
dough  to  rise,  then  turn  out  on  to  the  board,  divide  into  convenient- 
sized  loaves,  mould  up,  prove,  then  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  The 
rice  can  be  boiled  in  milk  if  preferred. 

Time. — About  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
loaves. 

3314.— TEA  BREAD.     (Fr.— Petits  Pain  de  the.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  ±  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  i  oz. 
of  salt,  i£  ozs.  of  yeast,  i£  pints  of  milk  and  water,  4  yolks  of  eggs. 

Method. — Make  the  milk  and  water  lukewarm,  turn  it  into  a  con- 
venient-sized basin,  dissolve  the  yeast  and  2  ozs.  of  the  sugar  in  it, 
stir  in  £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  cover  over  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  stand  aside 
in  a  warm  place  for  20  minutes.  While  this  is  standing,  weigh  the 


1412  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

remainder  of  the  flour  on  to  the  board,  rub  the  butter  into  it  with  the 
hands,  then  make  a  bay,  add  the  other  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of 
eggs,  and  the  salt  in  fine  powder,  and  then  if  the  ferment  is  ready  put 
it  into  the  bay,  wet  up  into  a  smooth  paste,  give  it  a  good  kneading, 
then  cover  over  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  leave  it  to  prove.  When  well 
proved,  divide  up  into  pieces  about  2  ozs.  in  weight,  and  form  them 
into  various  shapes — twists,  crescents,  scrolls,  rosettes,  or  any  other 
shape  fancy  may  suggest.  As  these  are  formed,  set  them  on  to  -a  clean 
tin,  cover  them  over  and  leave  to  prove.  When  well  proved,  wash 
them  over  with  a  beaten-up  egg,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  warm  oven 
to  a  nice  colour. 

These  rolls  are  very  much  appreciated  for  afternoon  tea,  tennis  and 
garden  parties,  and  are  an  excellent  adjunct  to  coffee,  cut  up  into 
slices  and  dried  in  the  oven  as  rusks. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  30  to  40 
rolls. 


3315.— UNFERMENTED  BREAD. 

Ingredients. — 2^  Ibs.  of  whole  meal,  i  Ib.  of  white  flour,  \  an  oz.  of 
carbonate  of  soda,  %  an  oz.  of  muriatic  acid,  water. 

Method. — Turn  the  flour,  meal  and  soda  into  a  pan,  and  mix  them 
well  together,  make  a  "  bay  "  or  hole  in  the  centre,  then  take  about  i 
quart  of  cold  water  in  a  jug,  and  mix  the  muriatic  acid  into  it,  turn 
into  the  bay,  and  mix  into  a  paste  as  quickly  as  possible.  Divide  into 
suitable-sized  loaves,  put  them  into  tins  and  into  the  oven  as  soon  as 
they  are  placed  in  the  tins.  It  is  important  that  the  paste  is  not 
handled  more  than  is  necessary,  for  the  gas  once  evolved  soon  loses 
its  strength,  and  may  result  in  heavy,  unpalatable  bread.  This  bread 
can  also  be  made  entirely  of  white  flour  if  preferred. 

Note. — Lime  water  is  very  useful  and  beneficial  in  bread-making  ;  it  im- 
parts all  the  whiteness  and  softness  produced  by  the  use  of  alum,  and  has 
the  further  merit  of  taking  away  any  acidity  there  may  be  in  the  dough. 
The  process  has  been  patented  by  a  Scotch  firm  of  bakers. 

3316.— WHOLEMEAL  BREAD,  FERMENTED. 

Ingredients. — 3^  Ibs.  of  wholemeal,  fine,  coarse,  or  medium,  as  desired, 
\  an  oz.  of  salt,  £  an  oz.  of  compressed  yeast,  water. 

Method. — Put  the  yeast  and  salt  into  a  clean  bowl,  add  i£  pints  of 
warm  water,  and  dissolve  the  yeast  and  salt  in  it.  Then  mix  in  the 
whole  of  the  meal,  making  a  smooth  but  rather  soft  dough,  cover  over, 
and  stand  aside  in  a  warm  place  for  about  3  hours,  then  turn  out  on  to 
the  board,  and  divide  into  convenient-sized  pieces,  mould  up,  and  place 
into  clean  greased  tins,  let  them  stand  to  prove  for  i  hour,  then  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1413 
3317.— WHOLEMEAL  BREAD,  UNFERMENTED. 

Ingredients. — 14  Ibs.  of  medium  wholemeal,  2-£  Ibs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of 
sugar,  6  ozs.  of  cream  of  tartar,  3  ozs.  of  carbonate  of  soda,  3  ozs.  of 
salt. 

Method. — Rub  the  sugar,  cream,  soda,  and  salt  through  a  fine  hair 
sieve  on  to  the  flour,  mix  well  together,  then  add  to  the  meal,  put 
it  into  a  clean  dry  tub,  and  keep  it  for  use  as  required.  When 
wanted,  take  the  quantity  of  the  mixture  desired,  put  it  into  a  clean 
pan,  add  sufficient  water  to  wet  it  into  a  soft  dough,  place  into  tins, 
and  bake. 

It  is  best  to  mix  the  ingredients  together  a  few  days  before  they  are 
required  for  use.  The  preparation  must  be  kept  in  a  dry  place  ;  it  will 
then  keep  for  an  indefinite  time. 

Biscuits 

3318.— ARROWROOT  BISCUITS  OR  DROPS. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  6  eggs,  £  a  Ib.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  arrow- 
root, £  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream  ;  whisk  the  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  add  them  gradually  to  the  butter,  stir  in  the  sugar  a  little  at  a 
time,  and  beat  the  mixture  well.  Smooth  down  all  the  lumps  from  the 
arrowroot  and  sift  it  with  the  flour  and  then  add  to  the  other  in- 
gredients. Mix  all  well  together,  drop  the  dough  on  a  buttered  tin 
in  pieces  the  size  of  a  shilling,  and  bake  the  biscuits  for  about  a  £  of 
an  hour  in  a  slow  oven. 

Time. — ±  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  to  make  from 
3  to  4  dozen  biscuits. 

3319.— BISCUIT  POWDER.     (Generally  used  for  In- 
fants' Food.) 

This  powder  may  be  purchased  in  tin  canisters,  and  may  also  be 
prepared  at  home.  Dry  the  biscuits  well  in  a  slow  oven  ;  roll  them 
and  grind  them  with  a  rolling  pin  on  a  clean  board  until  they  are  re- 
duced to  powder  ;  sift  the  powder  through  a  close  hair  sieve,  and  it 
is  then  fit  for  use.  It  should  be  kept  in  well-covered  tins,  and  in  a 
dry  place. 

Average  Cost,  6d.  per  Ib. 

3320,— COCOANUT    BISCUITS    OR    CAKES. 

Ingredients. — 10  ozs,  of  castor  sugar,  2  whites  of  eggs,  6  ozs.  desiccated 
cocoanut. 


1414  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Beat  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  the  other  ingre- 
dients and  form  into  pyramids;  place  the  pyramids  on  paper,  put  the 
paper  on  tins,  and  bake  the  biscuits  in  rather  a  cool  oven  until  they  are 
just  coloured  a  light  brown.  Dried  or  desiccated  cocoanut  is  now 
sold  at  a  moderate  price,  and  its  use  saves  much  trouble  and  labour. 

Time. — About  £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  pd.  Sufficient  for 
15  to  20  biscuits. 

3321.— COCOANUT  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  grated  cocoanut,  2  Ibs.  of  sugar,  5  eggs,  2  tea- 
cupfuls  of  flour. 

Method. — Rasp  a  good  fresh  cocoanut  on  a  grater,  letting  none  of  the 
rind  fall.  Spread  the  cocoanut  thus  grated  on  a  dish,  and  let  stand 
in  some  cool  dry  place  2  days  to  dry  gradually,  or  desiccated  cocoanut 
can  be  used  in  the  proportions  given.  Add  to  it  double  its  weight  of 
powdered  and  sifted  loaf  sugar,  the  whites  of  5  eggs  whisked  to  a  stiff 
froth,  and  i  teacupful  of  flour  to  every  pound  of  sugar.  Drop  the 
mixture  on  a  baking-tin  i  spoonful  at  a  time,  like  rock  cakes,  or  into 
proper  drop-cake  tins.  Bake  in  a  very  gentle  oven  for  about  20 
minutes  ;  move  the  biscuits  out  of  the  tins  while  warm,  and  when 
cold,  store  them  in  a  tin  canister. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  23.  Sufficient  for  3^  Ibs. 
of  biscuits. 

3322.— COCOANUT  GEMS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  desiccated  cocoanut,  4 
whites  of  eggs,  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon,  essence  of  vanilla. 

Method. — Break  the  whites  of  eggs  into  a  very  clean  basin,  add  the 
juice  of  \  a  lemon  and  the  sugar,  beat  up  these  ingredients  into  a  stiS 
paste  that  will  not  run  out  of  the  pan  when  turned  upside  down.  When 
well  beaten,  stir  in  the  desiccated  cocoanut.  Cover  baking-sheets  with 
wafer  paper,  and  lay  the  mixture  out  in  small  biscuits  about  the  size 
of  walnuts,  pinching  them  together  very  tightly  with  the  fingers  when 
the  biscuits  have  all  been  laid  out.  Proceed  to  bake  them  in  a  very 
slow  oven  ;  when  done  and  cold,  pack  them  away  in  a  tin  for  use  as 
required. 

Time. — i  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  dozen. 

3323.— CRISP  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  the  yolk  of  i  egg,  milk. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour  and  the  yolk  of  the  egg  with  sufficient  milk 
to  make  the  whole  into  a  very  stiff  paste;  beat  it  well,  knead  it  until 
it  is  perfectly  smooth.  Roll  the  paste  out  very  thinly  ;  with  a  round 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1415 

cutter  shape  it  into  biscuits,  prick  them  with  a  fork  and  bake  them  a 
nice  brown  in  a  slow  oven  from  12  to  18  minutes. 

Time. — 12  to  18  minutes.  Average  Cost,  4<1.  Sufficient  to  make  from 
3  to  4  dozen  biscuits. 

3324. — DESSERT  BISCUITS  (which  may  be  flavoured 
with  Ground  Ginger,  Cinnamon,  etc.). 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar, 
the  yolks  of  6  eggs,  flavouring  to  taste. 

Method. — Put  the  butter  into  a  basin  ;  warm  it,  but  do  not  allow  it 
to  oil  ;  then  with  a  wooden  spoon  beat  it  to  a  cream.  Add  the  flour 
by  degrees,  then  the  sugar  and  flavouring,  and  moisten  the  whol 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  which  should  previously  be  well  beaten.  When 
all  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly  incorporated,  drop  the  mixture  from 
a  spoon  on  to  a  buttered  paper,  leaving  a  distance  between  each  cake, 
as  they  spread  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  warm.  Bake  in  rather  a  slow 
oven  from  12  to  18  minutes,  and  do  not  let  the  biscuits  acquire  too 
much  colour.  In  making  the  above  quantity,  half  may  be  flavoured 
with  -round  ginger,  and  the  other  half  with  essence  of  lemon, or  some 
currants  adik-d  to  make  a  variety.  The  biscuits  are  named  after  the 
preparation  with  which  they  are  flavoured,  and  an  endk 
may  be  made  in  this  manner. 

Time. — 12  to  18  minutes,  or  rather  longer  in  a  very  slow  oven. 
Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  to  make  from  3  to  4  dozen  biscuits. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3325.— DEVILLED  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — 12  biscuits,  £  a  pint  of  Lucca  oil,  black  pepper,  cayenne, 
salt. 

Method. — Any  kind  of  plain  unsweetened  thin  biscuits  will  do.  Soak 
them  in  the  oil,  which  should  be  of  the  best  quality,  sprinkle  the  season- 
ing on  both  sides,  and  toast  the  biscuits  on  the  fire  or  in  front  on  a 
gridiron. 

Time. — 5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3326.— GINGER  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of  fresh  butter,  £  a  Ib.  of  castor 
r.  £  of  an  oz.  of  ground  ginger,  2  eggs. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  and  ginger  into  the  flour  on  the  board, 
make  a  "  bay  "  or  hole,  break  in  the  eggs,  and  wet  up  into  a  nice  work- 
able paste,  using  a  little  milk  if  necessary.  Roll  down  in  thin  sheets. 


1416  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  cut  out  with  a  plain  round  cutter,  set  them  on  to  a  greased  baking- 
sheet,  and  bake  in  a  cool  oven. 

Time. — 5  minutes,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  to  make 
4  dozen  biscuits.  Seasonable  in  winter. 

3327.— GINGERBREAD   NUTS,  RICH   SWEETMEAT. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  treacle,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  i  Ib.  of  coarse  brown 
sugar,  2  ozs.  of  ground  ginger,  i  oz.  of  candied  orange-peel,  i  oz.  of 
candied  angelica,  \  an  oz.  of  candied  lemon-peel,  \  an  oz.  of  coriander 
seeds,  £  of  an  oz.  of  caraway  seeds,  i  egg,  flour. 

Method. — Put  the  treacle  into  a  basin,  and  pour  over  it  the  butter, 
melted  so  that  it  does  not  oil,  the  sugar,  and  ginger.  Stir  these  in- 
gredients well  together,  and  while  mixing  add  the  candied  peel,  cut 
into  very  small  pieces,  but  not  bruised,  and  the  caraway  and  coriander 
seeds,  which  should  be  pounded.  Having  mixed  all  thoroughly  together, 
break  in  an  egg,  and  work  the  whole  up  with  as  much  fine  flour  as  may 
be  necessary  to  form  a  firm  paste.  Make  this  into  nuts  of  any  size, 
put  them  on  a  baking  tin,  and  place  them  in  a  slow  oven  from  a  £  to  \ 
an  hour. 

Time. — \  to  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  3  to  4  dozen 
nuts. 

3328.— GINGERBREAD   NUTS,  SUNDERLAND.     (An 
excellent  recipe.) 

Ingredients. — if  Ibs.  of  treacle,  i  Ib.  of  moist  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  butter, 
3  Ibs.  of  flour,  i£  ozs.  of  ground  ginger,  i£  ozs.  of  allspice,  i£  ozs.  of 
coriander  seeds. 

Method. — Let  the  allspice,  coriander  seeds,  and  ginger  be  freshly 
ground  ;  put  them  into  a  basin  with  the  flour  and  sugar,  and  mix 
these  ingredients  well  together  ;  warm  the  treacle  and  butter  together, 
then  with  a  spoon  work  the  mixture  into  the  flour,  etc.,  until  the 
whole  forms  a  nice  smooth  paste.  Drop  the  mixture  from  the  spoon 
on  to  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  and  bake  in  rather  a  slow  oven  from 
20  to  30  minutes.  A  little  candied  lemon-peel  mixed  with  the  above 
is  an  improvement. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  2s.  6d. 

3329.— HUNTING  NUTS. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  •£  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  -J  a  Ib.  of  candied 
peel,  i  oz.  of  ground  ginger,  i£  Ibs.  of  treacle,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  •£  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mixed  spice. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour  and  soda  together,  add  the  sugar,  peel,  ginger, 
and  spice.  Beat  up  the  butter  and  treacle  in  a  basin  to  a  cream, 
then  add  the  other  ingredients,  and  make  up  into  rather  a  firm  dough. 


BISCUITS. 


LuM 


I 


17 


14- 


2^- 


35 


i.  Cream  Toast.  2.  Wine.  3.  Water.  4.  Oatmeal.  5.  High  Tea.  6.  Petit  Beurre.  ?.  Din- 
ner. S.Normandy.  9.  Rosebefv.  10.  Water  Wafer,  it.  Thin  Butter.  12.1.111-1' 
14.  Canadian.  15.  Thick  Oat  Cake.  16.  Brighton.  17.  Milk.  18.  Duchess.  19.  Cracklct. 
ao.  Sunshine.  21.  Pat-a-Cake.  22.  Marie.  23.  Nile.  24.  Delhi.  25.  Fairy.  26.  Cocoanut. 
27.  Melton.  28.  Osborne.  29.  Butter  Cream.  30.  Picnic.  31.  Jamaica.  32.  Lunch.  3  v  Texas 
Cracker.  34.  Plasmon.  35.  \\'ayside.  36.  Digestive.  37.  Normandy.  38.  Oswego.  39.  \ 

99  ZZ» 


BISCUITS. 


i.  Rich  Digestive.  2.  Reading  Shortbread.  3.  Reading  Cracker.  4.  Monarch.  5.  Wheat- 
meal.  6.  Grilled  Cake  (Sultana).  £7.  Paillipine.  8.  Ratifia.  9.  Acorn.  10.  Dinner  Rolls, 
ii.  Mixed  Creams.  6.  Grilled  CakW(Plain).  12.  Mixed.  13.  Nursery  Rhyme.  14.  Nursery. 
15.  Fancy  Cracknel.  16.  Mixed  Wine.  17.  Dessert  Wafers.  18.  Coffee.  19.  Tea  Rusks.  20. 
Atlantic.  21.  Butter  Finger.  22.  Nice.  23.  Concert.  24.  Ciaderella.  25.  Breakfast.  26. 
Macaroons  (Italian).  27.  Ginger  Nuts. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,   BISCUITS,  AND  CAKE3       1417 

Lot  it  stand  for  4  hours  before  rolling  out  into  cakes  ;  roll  into  long 
flat  cakes  3  inches  long  by  i£  inches  wide,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
for  8  or  10  minutes. 

Time. — 8  to  10  minutes,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  4^d.  per  dozen. 
Sufficient  for  4  dozen.  Seasonable  in  October,  November.  December, 
and  January. 

Note. — The  long-shaped  nut  is  found  convenient  for  the  hunting-coat 
pocket. 

3330.— LEMON  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  flour,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  6ozs.  of  fresh 
butter,  4  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon,  2  dessertspoonfuls  of  lemon- 
juice. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  stir  in  the  castor  sugar  and 
very  finely-minced  lemon-peel,  and  when  these  ingredients  are 
thoroughly  mixed,  add  the  eggs,  which  should  be  previously  well  whisked, 
and  the  lemon-juice.  Beat  the  mixture  well  for  i  or  2  minutes,  then 
drop  it  from  a  spoon  on  to  a  buttered  tin,  about  2  inches  apart,  as  the 
biscuits  will  spread  when  they  get  warm;  place  the  tin  in  the  oven,  and 
bake  the  biscuits  a  pale  brown  from  15  to  20  minutes. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
biscuits.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3331.—  MACAROONS. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  ground  sweet  almonds,  f  of  a  Ib.  of  castor 
sugar,  the  whites  of  3  eggs,  wafer  paper. 

Method. — Mix  the  sugar  and  ground  almonds  well  together  on  the 
board,  then  put  them  into  a  large  marble  or  porcelain  mortar,  add  the 
whites  of  eggs,  and  proceed  to  well  rub  the  mixture  into  a  smooth 
paste.  When  it  begins  to  get  stiff  and  stands  up  well  it  is  ready, 
or  if  uncertain  whether  the  paste  has  been  pounded  enough,  try  one  in 
the  oven,  and  if  all  right,  lay  sheets  of  wafer  paper  over  clean  baking- 
sheets,  and  lay  out  the  biscuits  upon  it  with  a  spoon,  or  savoy  bag, 
place  a  few  split  almonds  on  the  top  of  each,  then  bake  in  a  cool 
oven. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes  in  a  slow  oven.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  24  to  36  biscu 

3332.— PLAIN  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter, 
yolk  of  i  egg,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk. 

Method.— Beat  the  egg  with  the  milk,  then  mix  with  the  other  in- 
gredients, and  roll  and  cut  out  into  very  thin  biscuits  with  a  paste 
T.  Bake  for  6  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 

Time.— 0  minutes,     Average  Cost,  4d.     Sufficient  for  i£  dozen  biscuits. 


1418  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3333.— RATAFIAS.     (Fr.— Ratafias.) 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  Ib  of  sweet  ground  almonds,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i£ 
Ibs.  of  castor  sugar,  the  whites  of  6  or  8  eggs. 

Method. — Exactly  the  same  as  for  macaroons,  but  the  paste  must  be 
a  little  softer,  and  they  must  be  laid  out  in  very  small  drops  on  to 
sheets  of  clean  white  kitchen  paper,  laid  over  baking-plates,  and  baked 
in  a  cool  oven  to  a  very  pale  colour. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  60  or 
80  ratafias. 

3334.— RICE   BISCUITS   OR   CAKES. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  rice  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib. 
of  butter,  i  egg. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  stir  in  the  rice  flour  and  pounded 
sugar,  and  moisten  the  whole  with  the  egg,  which  should  be  previously 
well  beaten.  Roll  out  the  paste,  cut  out  with  a  round  paste  cutter 
into  small  cakes,  and  bake  them  from  12  to  1 8  minutes  in  a  very  slow 
oven. 

Time. — 12  to  18  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  to  make  about 
1 8  cakes. 

Note. — Ground  rice,  or  rice  flour,  is  used  for  making  several  kinds  of  cakes, 
also  for  thickening  soups.  The  Americans  make  rice  bread,  and  prepare 
the  flour  for  it  in  the  following  manner  :  When  the  rice  is  thoroughly  cleansed, 
the  water  is  drawn  off  and  the  rice,  while  damp,  bruised  in  a  mortar  ;  it  is 
then  dried,  and  passed  through  a  hair  sieve. 

3335.—  SAVOY    BISCUITS    OR    CAKES. 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  8  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of 
lemon,  8  ozs.  of  flour. 

Method. — Break  the  eggs  into  a  basin,  beat  well  with  the  sugar  and 
essence  of  lemon  for  ^  of  an  hour.  Then  dredge  in  the  flour  gradually, 
and  well  but  lightly  mix.  Then  put  the  mixture  into  a  savoy  bag,  lay 
the  biscuits  out  on  to  a  sheet  of  thick  cartridge  paper,  and  bake  them 
in  rather  a  hot  oven  ;  but  let  them  be  carefully  watched,  as  they  are 
soon  done,  and  a  few  seconds  over  the  proper  time  will  scorch  and  spoil 
them.  These  biscuits,  or  ladies'  fingers,  as  they  are  sometimes  called, 
are  used  for  making  Charlotte  Russes  and  a  variety  of  fancy  sweet 
dishes. 

Time. — 10  to  12  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  2  doz. 
cakes. 

3336.— SEED  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  |  of  a  Ib.  of 
butter,  £  an  oz.  of  caraway  seeds,  3  eggs. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1419 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream  ;  stir  in  the  flour,  sugar  and 
caraway  seeds;  and  when  these  ingredients  are  well  mixed,  add  the 
eggs,  which  should  be  well  whisked.  Roll  out  the  paste,  cut  out  the 
buscuits  with  a  round  cutter,  set  them  on  to  clean  greased  baking- 
sheets,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  from  10  to  15  minutes. 
The  tops  of  the  biscuits  may  be  brushed  over  with  a  little  milk  or  the 
white  of  an  egg,  and  a  little  sugar  strewn  over. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  to  make  3 
dozen  biscuits. 


3337.— SIMPLE  HARD  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  about  £  a  pint  of 
skimmed  milk. 

Method. — Warm  the  butter  in  the  milk,  until  the  former  is  dissolved, 
then  mix  it  with  the  flour  into  a  very  stiff  paste  ;  beat  it  with  a  rolling 
pin  until  the  dough  looks  perfectly  smooth.  Roll  it  out  thin  ;  cut  out 
the  paste  with  a  plain  round  cutter  ;  prick  the  rounds  well  with  a 
fork  and  bake  them  from  6  to  10  minutes.  The  above  is  the  propor- 
tion of  milk  estimated  to  convert  the  flour  into  a  stiff  paste  ;  but 
should  it  be  found  too  much,  an  extra  spoonful  or  two  of  flour  must 
be  put  in.  These  biscuits  are  very  nice  for  the  cheese  course. 

Time. — 6  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  dozen 
biscuits. 


3338.— SODA  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  ±  of  a  Ib.  of  fresh 
butter,  2  eggs,  i  small  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda. 

Method. — Put  the  flour  into  a  clean  basin,  rub  in  the  butter  ,and 
sugar,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  break  the  eggs  and  beat  them  up 
well  with  a  wire  egg  whisk,  dissolve  the  soda  in  a  little  water,  turn  all  the 
ingredients  together  into  the  hole,  and  wet  up  into  rather  a  soft  paste, 
using  a  little  milk  if  necessary.  Turn  out  on  to  the  board,  dry  over,  and 
roll  down  in  sheets  about  a  £  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  out  with  a  small 
plain  round  cutter,  set  on  to  clean  greased  baking-plates,  and  bake 
in  a  warm  oven. 

Time. — 12  to  18  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  to  make 
about  3  dozen  cakes. 

3339.— VIRGINIA  BISCUITS. 

Ingredients. — Take  i£  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  butter,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  lard,  i  teaspoonful  of 'salt,  cold  water. 


I420  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method.— Work  the  butter  and  the  lard  into  the  flour  ;  add  the  salt, 
and  moisten  with  cold  water  to  a  stiff  paste.  Beat  this  until  it  bubbles, 
cut  out  into  small  biscuits,  and  prick  with  a  fork,  set  the  paste  on  to 
clean  baking-sheets,  brush  it  over  with  milk,  and  bake  in  a  warm  oven. 
The  more  beating,  the  better  the  biscuit. 

Time. — £  hour.     Average  Cost,  4d.     Sufficient  for  4  dozen  cakes. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


Buns 

3340.— BATH  BUNS. 

Ingredients. — i|-  Ibs.  of  flour,  10  ozs.  of  sugar  nibs,  i£  ozs.  of  com- 
pressed yeast,  \  a  Ib.  of  butter,  the  yolks  of  4  and  the  whites  of  2  eggs, 
water,  caraway  comfits,  candied  peel,  essence  of  lemon. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  yeast  in  £  a  gill  of  tepid  water,  mix  with  it  the 
eggs,  and  \  of  a  Ib.  of  flour  ;  beat  the  mixture  up  in  a  bowl,  and  set  it 
before  the  fire  to  rise.  Rub  the  butter  well  into  the  i  Ib.  of  flour,  add  the 
sugar,  and  put  in  a  few  of  the  comfits  and  the  peel  cut  into  small  cubes. 
When  the  sponge  has  risen  sufficiently,  mix  all  the  ingredients  to- 
gether, throw  over  it  a  cloth,  and  set  it  again  to  rise.  Grease  a  baking 
tin,  form  the  buns,  place  them  on  the  tin,  brush  over  yolk  of  egg  and 
milk,  and  strew  on  them  a  few  comfits.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Time — About  20  minutes,  to  bake  the  buns.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d. 
Sufficient  for  16  buns. 

3341.— HOT  CROSS  BUNS. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  \  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  yeast,  i  pint  of 
warm  milk,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  i  Ib.  of  currants,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
i  teaspoonful  of  mixed  spice. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  sugar,  spice  and  currants  ;  make  a  hole  in 
the  middle  of  the  flour,  put  in  the  yeast  and  £  a  pint  of  warmed  milk  ; 
make  a  thin  batter  of  the  surrounding  flour  and  milk,  and  set  the  pan 
covered  before  the  fire  until  the  leaven  begins  to  ferment.  Put  to  the 
mass  •£  a  Ib.  of  melted  butter,  add  the  salt,  and  beat  well  together, 
make  up  into  rather  a  soft  paste  with  all  the  flour,  using  a  little  more 
warm  milk  if  necessary.  Cover  this  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  let  it  once 
more  rise  up  for  £  an  hour.  Shape  the  dough  in  buns,  and  lay  them 
apart  on  buttered  tin  plates  or  baking-sheets  in  rows  at  least  3  inches 
apart,  to  rise  for  £  an  hour.  Place  a  cross  mould  on  them  (this  may 
be  done  roughly  with  the  back  of  a  knife),  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
from  15  to  20  minutes. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  id.  each.  Sufficient 
to  make  2  dozen  buns.  Seasonable  on  Good  Friday. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1421 
3342.— LEMON  BUNS.     (Fr.— Baba  au  Citron.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  2  eggs, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  ammonia,  %  &  teacupful  of  milk,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of 
lemon. 

Method. — Put  the  ammonia  into  a  mortar  and  rub  it  down  in  the 
milk.  Weigh  the  flour  on  to  the  board,  make  a  bay,  put  in  the  sugar 
and  butter,  add  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  and  rub  the  ingredients 
together  till  smooth  ;  then  add  the  eggs  and  dissolved  ammonia,  wet 
up  into  a  smooth  paste,  divide  it  into  3-oz.  pieces,  flatten  it  out,  wash 
it  over  with  milk,  turn  it  over  on  to  castor  sugar,  place  the  buns  on  to 
greased  baking  tins,  lay  a  slice  of  lemon-peel  on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a 
warm  oven. 

Time. — i  hour,  to  bake.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  10  large  buns. 

3343.— LIGHT  BUNS. 

Ingredients. — 1£  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  currants  or  sultanas — if 
liked,  a  few  caraway  seeds — £  a  pint  of  cold  new  milk,  i  egg  (which 
can  be  omitted). 

Method. — Rub  the  baking-powder  and  flour  together  through  a  fine 
sieve  ;  work  the  butter  into  the  flour  ;  add  the  sugar,  currants,  and 
caraway  seeds,  when  the  flavour  of  the  latter  is  liked.  Mix  all  these 
ingredients  well  together  ;  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour,  and 
pour  in  the  milk  mixed  with  the  egg,  which  should  be  well  beaten  ; 
mix  quickly,  and  set  the  dough  with  a  fork  on  baking-tins,  and  bake 
the  buns  for  about  20  minutes. 

This  mixture  makes  a  very  good  cake,  but  if  put  into  a  tin  should  be 
baked  for  i£  hours.  The  same  quantity  of  flour  and  baking-powder, 
with  \  a  pint  of  milk  and  a  little  salt,  will  make  either  bread  or  teacakes 
if  wanted  quickly. 

Time. — 20  minutes  for  the  buns  ;  if  made  into  a  cake,  i£  hours. 
Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  to  make  about  12  buns. 

3344.— MADEIRA  BUNS. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  14  ozs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger,  \  a  dessertspoonful  of  caraway 
seeds,  a  little  nutmeg,  £  wineglassful  of  sherry. 

Method. — Put  the  butter  and  castor  sugar  into  a  clean  basin,  and  set 
it  on  top  of  the  stove  to  soften.  Then  beat  to  a  cream  with  a  wooden 
spoon  ;  add  in  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  beating  up  well  after  each. 
Then  add  the  flour,  spices,  and  caraway  seeds,  and  moisten  with  the 
wine.  Divide  the  batter  out  into  some  greased  patty-pans,  put  them 
on  a  baking  tin  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  25  to  30  minutes. 

Time. — About  50  minutes  to  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
to  make  12  buns. 


1422  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

334S._PLAIN  BUNS. 

Ingredients. — To  every  2  Ibs.  of  flour  allow  6  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  i  oz. 
of  yeast,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  £  a  Ib  of  butter,  i  pint  of  tepid  milk. 

Method. — Put  the  flour  into  a  basin,  mix  the  sugar  well  with  it,  make  a 
well  in  the  centre,  and  stir  in  the  yeast  and  \  pint  of  milk  (which  should 
be  lukewarm),  with  enough  of  the  flour  to  make  it  the  thickness  of  cream. 
Cover  the  basin  over  with  a  cloth,  and  let  the  sponge  rise  in  a  warm 
place,  which  will  be  accomplished  in  about  \\  hours.  Melt  the  butter, 
but  do  not  allow  it  to  oil  ;  stir  it  into  the  other  ingredients,  using  a 
little  more  milk  if  necessary,  and  make  the  whole  into  a  soft  dough. 
Mould  it  into  buns  about  the  size  of  an  egg  ;  then  lay  them  in  rows 
quite  3  inches  apart  ;  set  them  again  in  a  warm  place  until  they  have 
risen  to  double  their  size  ;  then  put  them  into  a  good  brisk  oven,  and 
when  they  are  done  wash  them  over  with  a  little  milk.  From  1 5  to  20 
minutes  will  be  required  to  bake  them  nicely.  These  buns  may  be 
varied  by  adding  a  few  currants,  candied  peel  or  caraway  seeds  to  the 
other  ingredients.  The  above  mixture  also  answers  for  hot  cross 
buns,  by  putting  a  little  ground  mixed  spice,  and  by  pressing  a  tin 
mould  in  the  form  of  a  cross  in  the  centre  of  the  bun. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  id.  each.  Sufficient 
to  make  24  buns. 

3346.— VICTORIA  BUNS. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  egg,  \\  ozs.  of  ground  rice,  2  ozs. 
of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  currants,  a  few  thin  slices  of  candied  peel,  flour.  %  a 
dessertspoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Method. — Whisk  the  egg,  stir  in  the  sugar,  and  beat  these  ingredients 
well  together  ;  beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  stir  in  the  ground  rice, 
currants,  and  candied  peel,  then  the  beaten  eggs  and  sugar,  and  as 
much  flour  as  will  make  it  of  such  a  consistency  that  it  may  be  rolled 
into  7  or  8  balls.  Put  these  on  to  a  buttered  tin,  and  bake  them 
from  £  to  £•  of  an  hour.  The  buns  should  be  put  into  the  oven 
immediately,  or  they  will  become  heavy.  The  oven  should  be  moder- 
ately heated. 

Time. — £  to  £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  to  make  7  or 
8  buns. 


Cakes 

3347.— ALMOND  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — \  alb.  of  ground  sweet  almonds,  \  an  oz.  of  pounded  bitter 
almonds,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  14  ozs.  of  flour,  6  eggs, 
essence  of  lemon. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1423 

Method. — Break  the  eggs  into  a  clean  bowl,  add  the  sugar,  previously 
warmed,  and  beat  the  mixture  well  together  with  a  wire  egg  whisk  until 
it  is  as  thick  as  cream  ;  then  add  the  butter  (melted),  then  mix  in  the 
almonds,  flour  (sifted),  and  essence  of  lemon  with  a  spoon. 
Butter  a  plain  mould,  fill  it  with  the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  steady 
oven.  It  will  require  from  i£  to  2  hours  to  bake,  and  great  care  must 
be  taken  to  prevent  the  mixture  burning.  As  a  precaution  it  is 
advisable  to  lay  3  or  4  thicknesses  of  newspaper  under  the  mould, 
and  wrap  the  same  round  the  sides,  fixing  the  paper  in  place  with  a 
piece  of  twine. 

Time. — 2  to  2\  hours.     Average  Cost, 

3348.— ALMOND  SPONGE  CAKE.    (Good.) 

Ingredients. — Take  12  eggs  (leave  out  the  whites  of  8),  \  of  a  Ib.  of 
castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  bitter  almonds,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  sifted  flour. 

Method. — Blanch  the  almonds  and  roll  like  a  paste.  While  rolling 
them  moisten  them  with  rose-water.  Blanching  them  in  hot  water  will 
loosen  the  skin  which  can  then  be  easily  removed.  Break  the  eggs  in 
a  bowl  and  beat  them  up  with  a  whisk.  Add  the  sugar,  and  beat 
until  light  and  creamy,  then  beat  in  the  almonds,  add  the  flour 
sifted,  stir  it  in  lightly,  and  bake  in  a  square  greased  tin. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 

3349. —AUNT  BETSEY'S  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — 5  teacupfuls  of  flour,  2  teacupfuls  of  sugar,  \  a  cup  of 
butter,  i  cup  of  golden  syrup,  i  cup  of  water,  2  eggs,  \  of  a  Ib.of  chopped 
raisins,  i  teaspoonful  (each)  of  soda,  cloves,  cinnamon,  and  mace. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  together  ;  add  the  eggs,  dissolve 
the  soda  in  the  water,  then  add  the  molasses,  flour,  spices  and  fruit, 
and  well  work  the  mixture  in  the  bowl.  Turn  it  into  a  flat  square 
tin  baking-dish  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  or  if  preferred  it  can  be 
cooked  in  small  crinkled  patty-pans. 

Time. — i  to  i|  hours.     Average  Cost,  is. 

3350. -AUNTIE'S  CAKES.     (Delicious.) 

Ingredients. — \  of  a  Ib.  of  cornflour,  \  a  Ib.  of  flour,  2  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder,  the  rind  of  2  small  lemons,  \  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar, 
|  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  4  eggs. 

Method. — Chop  the  lemon-rind  up  very  finely  ;  well  mix  the  flour 
and  baking-powder  together  on  a  sheet  of  paper  ;  put  the  butter  into 
a  clean  basin  and  beat  it  up  to  a  cream  with  a  large  wooden  spoon, 
then  add  the  sugar,  and  beat  the  ingredients  until  they  are  light  and 
white,  add  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  beating  well  after  each  addition 
of  eggs,  ancj  when  all  the  eggs  have  been  beaten  in,  add  the  flour  and 


1424  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

peel,  and  wet  into  rather  a  soft  batter  with  a  little  milk.  Grease  the 
patty-pans  with  a  little  clean  lard,  and  drop  i  dessertspoonful  of  the 
batter  into  each.  Bake  in  a  warm  oven. 

Time. — 5  minutes  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  2s.  2d.  for  this  quantity. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  dozen  cakes. 

335L—BOSTON  BREAKFAST  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  milk,  i  large  spoonful  of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  dis- 
tillery yeast,  2  eggs,  a  little  salt,  flour. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  yeast  in  the  milk,  add  the  sugar,  and  stir  in 
about  £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  beat  into  a  good  tough  batter,  set  it  aside 
where  it  will  not  get  chilled,  and  leave  it  all  night,  but  do  not  stand  it 
where  it  will  be  too  hot,  or  it  will  turn  sour.  In  the  morning  add  the 
eggs  and  a  little  salt  in  fine  powder,  and  after  beating  it  well  up  adding 
a  little  more  flour,  but  using  only  enough  to  prevent  the  dough  run- 
ning ;  then  let  it  prove,  and  divide  up  into  2-oz.  pieces,  prove  on  a 
floured  board,  and  cook  either  on  a  hot  plate  or  in  the  oven.  When 
done,  break  them  open,  and  give  a  liberal  allowance  of  butter.  Send 
to  table  steaming  hot. 

Time. — £  hour,  to  bake.  Sufficient  for  one  dozen  cakes.  Average 
Cost,  id.  each.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

A        ..-  ..  ?i    •;';: 

3352.— BREAKFAST  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  bread  dough,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  2  eggs. 

Method. — Spread  the  dough  on  the  board,  lay  the  sugar  and  butter 
on  top,  break  the  eggs,  and  rub  well  together  with  the  hands  until  it  is 
well  mixed,  then  put  it  into  a  tin,  and  let  it  prove  until  it  becomes  light, 
then  bake  in  a  moderately  warm  oven. 

Time. — About  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  ?d.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 

3353.— BREAKFAST  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  £  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  2  eggs. 

Method. — These  cakes  are  made  in  the  same  manner  as  the  bread, 
with  the  addition  of  eggs  and  sugar.  Mix  the  flour,  baking-powder 
and  salt  well  together,  and  stir  in  the  sifted  sugar.  Add  the  milk  and 
the  eggs,  which  should  be  well  whisked,  and  with  this  liquid  work  the 
flour,  etc.,  into  a  light  dough.  Divide  it  into  small  cakes,  put  them 
into  the  oven  immediately,  and  bake  for  about  20  minutes. 

Time. — 20  minutes  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  18  or 
20  cakes, 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1425 

3354.— BRIDE   OR  CHRISTENING  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — 3^  Ibs.  of  the  finest  flour,  3  Ibs.  of  fresh  butter,  7^  Ibs. 
of  currants,  3  Ibs.  of  raw  sugar,  2  grated  nutmegs,  £  of  an  oz.  of  mace, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  cloves,  24  eggs,  i  Ib.  of  sweet  whole  blanched  almonds, 
£  a  Ib.  of  candied  citron,  f  of  a  Ib.  each  of  candied  orange-  and  lemon- 
peel,  i  gill  of  wine,  i  gill  of  brandy. 

Method. — Take  some  good  strong  household  flour  and  rub  it  through 
a  fine  sieve  on  to  a  sheet  of  paper.  Well  wash,  dry  and  pick  the  currants 
free  from  stones  and  sprigs,  and  lay  them  on  the  table  ready  for  use. 
Blanch  the  almonds,  shred  the  peel  very  fine,  and  mix  it  with  the 
currants.  Break  the  eggs,  taking  especial  care  to  eliminate  any  that 
are  bad  or  musty,  and  put  them  into  a  clean  basin.  Weigh  the  sugar 
and  roll  it  on  the  table  with  a  rolling-pin  to  break  up  all  lumps  ;  put 
it  in  a  large  pan,  add  the  butter  and  all  the  spices  in  fine  powder,  and 
proceed  to  beat  the  mixture  up  to  a  light  cream  with  the  hand  ;  add 
the  eggs  2  at  a  time,  allowing  an  interval  of  at  least  5  minutes  between 
each  addition  of  eggs,  beating  as  hard  as  possible  all  the  time.  When 
all  the  eggs  have  been  put  in,  mix  in  the  fruit  and  peel,  and  last  of  all 
add  the  flour,  with  the  wine  and  spirits.  When  thoroughly  well 
mixed,  put  it  out  into  well  papered  hoops  and  press  it  down  in  the 
centre  with  the  back  of  the  hand,  set  it  into  a  cool  oven  and  bake  for 
about  6  hours.  This  recipe  will  make  about  24  Ibs.  of  cake,  but  if  a 
fairly  large  oven  is  not  available,  it  would  be  better  not  to  bake  the 
whole  of  this  quantity  in  one  hoop,  or  it  will  not  make  a  very  satisfac- 
tory cake,  as  the  top  and  sides  will  be  burnt  and  dried  before  the  cake 
can  be  properly  cooked.  It  would  therefore  be  preferable  to  divide  it 
into  2  or  more  smaller  cakes.  To  ascertain  if  the  cake  is  properly 
cooked,  test  it  with  a  clean  skewer  or  larding  needle,  taking  care  that 
the  skewer  is  perfectly  clean  and  dry  ;  plunge  it  lightly  into  the  centre 
of  the  cake,  and  if  done  the  skewer  will  come  out  perfectly  clean.  On 
the  other  hand,  according  to  the  quantity  and  condition  of  the  paste 
which  adheres  to  the  skewer  the  identical  state  of  its  rawness  can  be 
estimated,  and  individual  judgment  must  determine  how  much  longer 
it  will  require  in  the  oven.  As  these  cakes  are  better  for  keeping,  it 
is  advisable  to  make  and  bake  them  at  least  3  months  before  they  are 
required.  If  this  is  done,  the  best  way  to  keep  them  is  to  strip  off  all 
the  paper  they  were  baked  in,  and  then  to  wrap  up  each  cake  in  a 
large  sheet  of  rice  parchment  or  wax  paper,  then  wrap  it  up  in  several 
thicknesses  of  clean  newspaper,  pack  away  in  a  tin  or  airtight  box, 
and  stow  away  in  a  dry  cool  place. 

Wedding  or  Bride's  Cakes  are  thickly  encrusted  with  almond  icing 
(No.  34  59),  and  then  iced  over  with  icing  No.  3463,  and  when  dry 
are  decorated  with  piping,  silver  leaves,  artificial  flowers  and  gum  paste 
ornaments.  Where  something  special  is  desired,  natural  flowers 
are  used  for  decoration. 

Time. — To  bake,  5  to  6  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  per  pound. 


1426  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3355-— BRIOCHES.     (Fr.— Brioches.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  Ib.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  German  yeast, 
4  ozs.  of  sugar,  8  eggs,  £  an  oz.  of  salt,  water. 

Method. — Put  £  a  Ib.  of  the  flour  on  a  board,  hollow  it  in  the  centre, 
put  in  the  yeast  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water,  mix  rather  tight,  and 
set  it  to  rise  in  a  covered  pan  near  the  fire.  Put  the  rest  of  the  flour 
on  the  board,  and  after  making  a  hole  in  the  centre,  add  the  butter, 
salt,  sugar,  and  4  eggs,  and  work  till  the  paste  is  smooth.  When  the 
sponge  is  well  risen  (it  ought  to  expand  to  double  its  original  size), 
mix  it  with  the  paste,  and  again  set  it  to  rise  for  3  hours.  Next  put 
the  paste  on  a  board,  knead  it  well,  and  fold  it  over  2  or  3  times,  and  a 
third  time  set  it  to  rise  for  2  hours  ;  once  more  knead  it  out,  fold  it  up, 
and  put  on  the  ice  or  a  cool  place  till  firm.  This  dough  may  be  used 
for  small  cakes,  or  to  form  cases  for  compotes,  custards,  etc. 

3356.— CALIFORNIA  JUMBLES. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  butter,  i£  Ibs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of 
grated  lemon-peef,  the  whites  of  4  eggs. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  together  very  lightly,  add  the 
lemon  and  the  egg  whites,  then  sieve  and  mix  in  the  flour.  Turn  out 
on  to  a  paste  board  and  mould  up  into  a  stiff  dough,  divide  it  into  4 
or  5  pieces,  and  roll  them  out  carefully  into  lengths  about  the 
thickness  of  the  little  finger.  Cut  off, into  4-inch  lengths,  turn  the 
ends  in  scroll  fashion,  set  them  on  a  clean  greased  tin,  leaving  plenty 
of  room  for  them  to  spread,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time. — \  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  3  dozen 
jumbles. 

3357.-CHRISTMASCA£E,No.i.  (Fr.— Gateau deNoel.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  butter,  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  sultanas, 
i  Ib.  of  currants,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  mixed  candied  peel,  2  Ibs.  of  flour,  \  an 
oz.  of  baking-powder,  8  eggs,  milk. 

Method. — Sieve  the  baking-powder  2  or  3  times  with  the  flour  on  to 
a  sheet  of  paper  to  mix  well.  Put  the  butter  and  the  sugar  into  a 
clean  pan  and  stand  in  front  of  the  fire  to  soften.  Weigh  the  fruit  on 
to  the  flour,  having  carefully  cleaned  and  picked  them  free  from  stalks 
and  stones.  Cut  up  the  peel  into  thin  shreds,  and  lay  it  with  the  fruit 
and  flour.  Break  the  eggs  into  a  clean  basin.  Now  proceed  to  beat 
up  the  butter  and  sugar  into  a  cream  with  your  hand,  add  the  eggs  in 
i  at  a  time,  beating  well  after  each  addition  of  eggs.  When  all  are  in, 
add  the  flour  and  fruit,  moisten  to  the  usual  cake  batter  consistency  with 
milk,  and  bake  in  round  or  square  well-papered  and  greased  tins.  This 
will  make  about  7  Ibs.  of  cake,  and  can  be  baked  in  i  or  more  cakes, 
as  desired. 

Time, — 3  to  4  hours  to  bake,     Average  Cost,  icd.  per  Ib, 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1427 

3358.— CHRISTMAS  CAKE,  No.  2. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  raw  sugar,  2^  Ibs.  of 
currants,  \  a  Ib.  of  mixed  peel,  2  Ibs.  of  flour,  £  an  oz.  of  baking-powder, 
6  eggs,  milk,  mixed  spice. 

Method. — Exactly  the  same  as  in  the  previous  recipe.  These  cakes 
are  sometimes  iced  over  with  almond  icing  (No.  3469),  and  then  iced 
and  decorated  with  white  and  coloured  sugar  icing  (No.  3461).  This 
of  course  is  quite  optional. 

Time. — 3  to  4  hours  to  bake.     Average  Cost,  8d.  per  Ib. 

3359.— CHRISTMAS  CAKE,  No.  3. 

Ingredients. — 2-J-  teacupfuls  of  flour,  £  a  teacupful  of  melted  butter, 
i  teacupful  of  cream,  i  teacupful  of  treacle,  J  of  a  teacupful  of  moist 
sugar,  2  eggs,  |  an  oz.  of  powdered  ginger,  -fc  a  Ib.  of  raisins,  i  teaspoon- 
ful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  i  tablespoonful  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Make  the  butter  sufficiently  warm  to  melt  it,  but  do  not 
allow  it  to  oil  ;  put  the  flour  into  a  basin,  add  to  it  the  sugar,  ginger 
and  raisins,  which  should  be  stoned  and  cut  into  small  pieces.  When 
these  dry  ingredients  are  thoroughly  mixed,  stir  in  the  bur 
treacle,  and  well  whisked  eggs,  and  beat  the  mixture  lor  a  few  minutes. 
Mix  the  soda  with  the  dry  ingredients,  taking  great  care  to  leave  no 
lumps,  then  stir  the  vinegar  into  the  dough.  When  it  is  wetted,  put 
the  cake  into  a  buttered  tin  or  mould,  place  it  in  a  moderate  oven 
immediately,  and  bake  it  from  i£  to  2^  hoi: 

Time. — 1|  to  2\  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 

336o.-COCOANUT  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  butter,  \  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  flour, 
\  of  a  Ib.  of  desiccated  cocoanut,  \  an  oz.  of  baking-p  ;  eggs, 

milk,  essence  of  lemon. 

Method. — Sieve  the  baking-powder  well  with  the  flour  on  to  a  sheet 
of  paper  laid  on  the  table.     Weigh  and  add  the  cocoanut.     Put  the 
butter  and  sugar  into  a  clean  basin,  warm  slightly,  and  beat  ii] 
with  a  large  wooden  spoon  ;   beat  in  the  eggs,  i  at  a  time,  and  when 
all  are  in  add  the  flavouring,  flour  and  cocoanut  ;  bring  to  cake  batter 
consistency  with  milk,  divide  the  mixture  into  2  or  more  well-pa 
and  greased  tins  as  preferred,  sprinkle  some  cocoanut  over  the  top, 
and  bake  in  a  moderately  n. 

Time. — i  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.     Sufficient  for  2  cak 

3361.— COCOANUT  ROCKS. 

Ingredients. — 10  ozs.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  6  ozs.  of  desiccated 
cocoanut  8  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4  < 
Method. — Beat  the  sugar  and  butter  together  ;  add  the  cocoanut  and 


1428  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

flour  by  degrees,  then  the  eggs,  still  beating  the  mixture.     Drop  it  in 
small  spoonfuls  on  to  a  baking-tin  (buttered),  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 
Time. — About  8  minutes,  to  bake  the   cakes.     Average  Cost,  is  46.. 
Sufficient  for  30  cakes. 

3362.— COFFEE  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  %  a  Ib.  of  brown  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  golden 
syrup,^  a  Ib.  of  currants,  \  a  Ib.  of  sultanas,  i£  Ibs.  of  flour,  £  an  oz.  of 
baking-powder,  2  eggs,  £  an  oz.  of  nutmeg,  cloves  and  cinnamon  mixed, 
coffee. 

Method. — Sieve  the  baking-powder  with  the  flour  into  a  pan;  add 
the  spices,  sugar  and  butter,  rub  well  together,  make  a  well  in  the 
centre,  pour  in  the  syrup,  add  about  £  of  a  pint  of  strong  cold  coffee, 
break  in  the  eggs,  and  beat  well  together  ;  then  mix  in  the  other 
ingredients  with  a  strong  wooden  spoon,  using  a  little  milk  if  not  moist 
enough,  mix  in  the  fruit  last,  and  then  bake  in  a  long  square  cake 
pan  nicely  papered. 

Time. — i  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  25. 

3363.— COMMON    CAKE.     (Suitable    for    sending    to 
Children  at  School.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  or  clarified  dripping, 
|-  an  oz.  of  caraway  seeds,  £  of  an  oz.  of  allspice,  10  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  i  Ib.  of  currants,  i£  pints  of  milk,  £  an  oz.  of  distillery  yeast. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  lightly  into  the  flour  ;  add  all  the  dry- 
ingredients,  and  mix  these  well  together.  Make  the  milk  warm,  but 
not  hot  ;  stir  in  the  yeast,  and  with  this  liquid  make  the  whole  into  a 
light  dough  ;  knead  it  well,  and  line  the  cake-tins  with  strips  of  white 
buttered  paper  ;  this  paper  should  be  about  6  inches  higher  than  the 
top  of  the  tin.  Put  in  the  dough  ;  stand  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise 
for  more  than  i  hour  ;  then  bake  the  cakes  in  a  well-heated  oven.  If 
this  quantity  be  divided  in  2,  the  cakes  will  take  from  \\  to  2  hours 
baking. 

Time. — ij  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  to  make  2 
moderate-sized  cakes. 

3364.— COMPOSITION  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter, 
3  eggs,  i  teacupful  of  cream,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  nutmeg 
to  taste. 

Method. — Beat  the  sugar  and  butter  to  a  cream,  add  the  eggs,  then 
the  cream,  flour  and  spice.  This  cake  requires  well  beating.  Put  into 
round  papered  tins,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd.  Sufficient  for  2  cakes.  Season- 
al any  time. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1429 

3365.— CORN  CAKES  (Excellent  way  to  Make). 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  corn  meal,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  2  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  2  eggs,  £  a  Ib.  of  golden  syrup, 
milk. 

Method. — Rub  the  baking-powder  and  salt  well  into  the  meal  and 
flour,  then  mix  into  a  nice  pliable  dough  with  the  eggs  and  the 
syrup,  using  no  more  milk  than  is  absolutely  necessary.  Bake  on 
tin  plates  in  a  quick  oven.  Cut  the  cakes  across  like  scones,  an'd  serve. 

Time. — 30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.      Sufficient  for  4  small  cakes. 

3366.— CORNFLOUR  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  cornflour,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  6  ozs. 
of  sifted  sugar,  3  eggs. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  then  add  the  other  ingredients  ;  beat 
for  20  minutes.  Lay  into  patty-pans,  and  bake  in  a  warm  oven. 

Time. — |  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  2  dozen  small 
cakes. 

3367.— CREAM  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  fresh  butter,  i  pint  of  warm  water,  J  of  a  Ib. 
of  sifted  flour,  10  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  sweet  milk,  4  tablespoon fu Is  of  corn- 
flour, 4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  butter  into  a  clean  stewpan,  add  the  warm  water 
and  slowly  bring  it  to  the  boiling  point,  stirring  often.  When  it  boils, 
put  in  the  flour,  continue  stirring,  and  boil  for  5  minutes,  then  turn  it 
into  a  deep  dish  to  cool.  Break  8  eggs,  and  beat  them  well  i  at  a  time 
into  the  cool  paste,  drop  the  mixture  in  teaspoonfuls  on  to  the  buttered 
paper,  taking  care  they  do  not  run  into  each  other;  set  them  on  to  a 
flat  baking-sheet.  Bake  for  15  minutes.  Boil  the  milk  after  mixing 
the  cornflour  with  a  little  of  it,  beat  up  the  remaining  eggs,  and  add 
them  to  the  cornflour  ;  then  pour  the  boiling  milk  on  the  eggs,  put  in 
the  sugar  and  a  little  vanilla  or  lemon  flavouring,  and  about  i  pz.  of 
fresh  butter.  Stir  the  mixture  well  until  it  is  smooth  and  thick,  then 
set  it  aside  to  cool.  Split  the  cakes  open  with  a  sharp  knife,  fill  up 
with  cornflour  custard,  and  dredge  over  with  fine  sugar. 

Time. — 15  minutes  to  bake,  but  altogether  i  hour.  Average  Cost, 
2s.  3d.  Sufficient  for  2  dozen  cakes. 

3368.— DESSERT  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  £  a  Ib.  of  sifted 
sugar,  3  eggs. 

Method. — Clarify  the  butter  and  beat  the  sugar  well  in  ;  add  the 
flour  by  degrees,  then  the  eggs,  still  beating.  Mix  thoroughly,  and 
bake  in  small  tins  for  8  or  10  minutes. 


1430         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Time. — 8  to  10  minutes,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  20  or 
30  cakes. 

3369.— DOUGHNUTS. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  new  milk,  £  an  oz.  of  compressed  yeast,  i  egg, 
2  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  flour. 

Method. — Make  the  milk  warm,  and  dissolve  the  yeast  in  it  ;  stir  in 
about  |  of  a  Ib.  of  flour  and  the  sugar,  cover  over,  and  stand  the  mixture 
aside  in  a  warm  place  where  it  will  not  be  disturbed,  and  leave  it  to 
rise  up  and  drop.  When  it  drops  it  is  ready,  but  it  must  not  be 
touched  until  it  has  dropped.  When  ready,  add  the  melted  butter, 
the  egg,  and  a  pinch  of  salt  ;  beat  it  well  together,  and  then  add 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  workable  paste.  Put  the  paste  when  made 
into  a  basin,  cover  over,  and  stand  it  aside  in  a  warm  place  to  prove  ; 
when  well  proved,  turn  out  on  to  the  board,  dry  over,  and  divide  up 
into  2-oz.  pieces,  mould  up  round,  then  flatten  the  pieces  out  slightly 
with  a  rolling-pin,  damp  round  the  edges,  lay  i  spoonful  of  raspberry 
jam  in  the  centre,  and  gather  the  edges  into  the  centre,  forming  them 
up  into  round  balls  with  the  jam  in  the  middle  ;  pinch  them  together 
firmly  and  lay  them  on  a  clean  floured  cloth  as  each  one  is  worked. 
Cover  over  with  another  cloth  when  they  have  all  been  done,  and  stand 
them  aside  to  prove.  When  they  are  light  enough,  have  ready  a  pot  of 
boiling  lard  on  the  stove,  drop  the  doughnuts  into  it,  cook  them  for 
about  7  minutes  on  one  side  and  then  turn  them  over  and  cook  them 
the  reverse  way.  Take  up  with  a  drainer  on  3  or  4  thicknesses  of  clean 
kitchen  paper,  and  when  the  doughnuts  have  all  been  cooked  roll  them 
into  fine  castor  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook,  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  8d. 

3370. -DOUGHNUTS  WITH  BAKING-POWDER. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  flour,  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  £  an  oz. 
of  baking-powder,  2  eggs,  milk. 

Method. — Sift  the  baking-powder  well  with  the  flour,  then  rub  in  the 
butter  and  sugar,  make  a  bay,  break  in  the  eggs,  and  add  sufficient 
milk  to  wet  it  up  into  a  nice  pliable  paste.  Dry  it  over  on  the  board, 
and  then  roll  down  in  rather  a  thin  sheet,  cut  out  with  a  small  plain 
round  cutter,  lay  them  separately  on  the  board  as  they  are  cut  out, 
gather  the  trimmings  into  a  heap  without  kneading  them,  roll  them 
out  into  a  sheet  with  the  rolling-pin,  and  cut  out  with  the  same  size 
cutter  ;  when  all  are  cut  out,  wash  them  over  slightly  with  a  little 
cold  water,  lay  a  spot  of  jam  upon  half  of  them  out  of  a  spoon,  and 
place  the  other  half  on  top.  Pinch  round  the  edges  to  prevent  the 
jam  from  running  out,  stand  the  doughnuts  on  a  floured  board  for 
about  20  minutes,  and  then  cook  them  in  boiling  lard  as  directed  in 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1431 

the  previous  recipe.     When  done  and  well  drained,  dust  over  with 
powdered  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook,  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  lod. 

3371.— DROP  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £-  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  flour, 
4  eggs,  baking-powder,  milk. 

Method. — Add  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  to  the  flour  on  the 
board,  well  mix  it  and  run  it  through  a  sieve  2  or  3  times.  Put  the 
butter  and  sugar  into  a  clean  basin,  and  beat  it  well  up  into  a  cream 
with  the  hand,  add  the  eggs  i  at  a  time,  beating  well  after  each  addition 
of  eggs,  and  when  all  are  well  beaten  in,  add  the  flour,  and  moisten 
the  mixture  with  milk  to  batter  consistency.  Scrape  down  the  sides 
with  a  palette-knife,  and  with  the  point  of  the  knife  mix  in  all  the 
material  scraped  down.  Have  some  clean  white  sheets  of  kitchen 
paper  cut  to  the  size  that  will  fit  the  baking-plates  or  tins,  and  with  a 
spoon  lay  out  small  cakes  all  over  the  sheets  of  paper,  allowing  about 
i£  inches  between  each  cake  or  drop,  which  should  be  about  the  size  of 
half  a  walnut  shell  ;  then  dust  lightly  over  with  sugar  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Time. —  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.    Sufficient  for  3  or  4  dozen  cakes. 

3372.— ECONOMICAL  CAKE. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  }  of  a  Ib.  of 
butter  or  lard,  £  a  Ib.  of  currants,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder, 
3  egf?s»  i  a  Pint  °f  milk. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  well  beat  in  the 
eggs,  then  stir  all  the  ingredients  together.  When  the  mixture  has 
been  well  beaten,  stir  in  the  fruit,  put  the  cake  in  a  buttered  mould, 
and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  i£  hours. 

Time. — 1|  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d. 

3373._FARMER'S  FRUIT  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — i  cup  of  dried  sour  apples,  i  cup  of  golden  syrup,  i  cup 
of  sugar,  £  cup  of  butter,  £  a  cup  of  sour  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
2  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon,  i  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  i  egg,  2  cups  of 
flour. 

Method. — Chop  the  apples  fine,  and  soak  them  over  night  ;  in  the 
morning  let  them  simmer  for  2  hours  with  the  golden  syrup.  Prepare 
the  other  ingredients  as  for  any  cake,  beating  well,  and  adding  the 
.apple  and  syrup  when  a  little  cool  but  not  cold,  Bake  in  small  greased 
tins  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time. — £  to  J  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod, 


1432  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3374.— FLANNEL  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  butter,  3  eggs,  £  of 
a  Ib.  of  sifted  flour,  i  oz.  of  yeast. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  the  milk,  and  when  lukewarm  add  the 
eggs,  the  whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately,  and  stir  in  the  flour. 
Add  the  dissolved  yeast,  beat  well,  and  leave  to  rise.  Then  make  into 
cakes,  and  bake  for  1 5  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  This  mixture  will  be  very 
soft,  and  require  very  careful  handling.  The  cakes  are  nice  broken 
open  while  hot  and  toasted. 

Time. — £  hour.     Average  Cost,  icd.     Sufficient  for  i  dozen  cakes. 

3375-—  FRENCH  CAKE.     (Fr.— Gateau  Frangais.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  £  of  an  oz.  of  yeast,  i  Ib.  of  butter,  6  eggs, 
£  of  a  Ib.  of  best  raisins,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  currants,  %  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar. 

Method. — Take  away  %  a  Ib.  of  the  flour,  make  a  hole  in  the  rest, 
and  put  in  the  yeast,  mixed  with  a  little  warm  water  ;  work  it  to  a 
sponge,  and  place  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  When  it  has  risen  suffi- 
ciently, work  the  butter  and  eggs  with  the  remaining  flour  into  it, 
and  knead  it  twice  with  the  hands,  adding  another  egg  if  it  is  too 
stiff.  Stone  and  cut  up  the  raisins,  add  the  currants  and  sugar,  mix 
all  the  ingredients  well  together  with  the  sponge  ;  put  into  a  well- 
buttered  tin  mould,  and  let  the  whole  stand  for  i  or  2  hours  to  rise. 
When  well  risen,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  i  or  i£  hours. 

Time. — 1£  hours,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  one 
large  cake. 

3376.— FRUIT  CAKE.     (Fr.— Gateau  de  Fruits.) 

Ingredients. — Butter,  flour,  currants,  candied  peel  and  sugar,  each 
£  a  lb.f  £  a  grated  nutmeg,  a  few  chopped  almonds,  the  juice  and  rind 
of  i  lemon,  4  eggs. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  "a  cream,  add  the  eggs  one  by  one,  and 
then  the  other  ingredients,  and  bake  in  a  paper  lined  and  greased 
tin.  The  oven  must  not  be  too  hot. 

Timeu — i  to  2  hours,  to  bake.     Average  Cost,  is.  lod. 

3377-— GATEAU  ST.  HONORE. 

Ingredients. — 6ozs.  of  Vienna  flour,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  and  2  ozs.  of  sugar, 
i  egg. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  into  the  flour,  make  a  bay, 
break  i  egg  into  a  cup,  beat  it  up  with  a  fork,  put  £  of  it  into  the  bay, 
add  moisture  and  work  into  a  stiff  paste,  using  a  little  milk  if 
required.  Mould  it  up  round,  and  then  roll  it  out  to  about  the  size, 
of  a  pudding  plate,  set  it  on  to  a  clean  tin,  and  let  it  stand  for  2 
hours,  prick  it  all  over  with  a  fork,  and  then  make  up  the  following  : — 


BREAD. 


c 


U'liolrinc.il,  Baton  Roll,  Vienna,  Hovis,  Tin,  Bermaline,  Te-icake,  Large  Sandwich,  Crescent 
Roll,  DIIITI.T  H-.ll,  Vi.-rna  Roll,  BMII,  Bloom  ir,  Cob-ir^,  Ko'Her,  Sally  Lunn,  Rou.id  Scone 
Brown  Loaf,  Milk  Scone,  Household,  Brick,  Cottage,  Farm  House. 


CAKES. 


I.  Cocoanut  Cake.         2.  Orange  Cake.          3.  Mocha  Cake. 


102 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1433 

£  a  pint  of  water,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  flour, 
4  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Put  the  butter  and  water  into  a  clean  stewpan  and  set  it 
over  the  fire  ;  mix  the  sugar  and  flour  together,  and  when  the  liquor 
boils,  turn  in  the  flour,  stir  it  well  over  the  fire  until  it  thickens,  and  the 
whole  of  it  can  be  lifted  out  of  the  pan  with  a  spoon  ;  then  take  it  off 
the  fire,  let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes,  and  beat  in  the  eggs  one  at  a 
time  with  a  large  wooden  spoon.  When  the  whole  of  the  eggs  have 
been  beaten  in  put  the  mixture  into  a  savoy  bag  with  a  plain  tube, 
and  lay  a  ring  round  the  piece  of  paste  prepared  on  the  tin — lay  the 
ring  as  near  the  edge  as  possible,  but  take  care  that  it  does  not  run 
over  the  edge  on  to  the  tin — and  lay  out  the  remaining  paste  in  about 
12  small  buttons  on  another  tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When 
done,  dredge  some  sugar  over,  and  run  it  with  a  red  hot  "  salamander." 

Now  boil  up  about  £  of  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar  to  nearly  a  caramel,  put 
a  skewer  into  the  small  buttons,  dip  them  separately  into  the  sugar 
syrup,  and  stick  them  round  upon  the  ring  of  paste  nearly  close  to- 
gether, place  a  glac6  cherry  in  each  one  of  the  cakes,  and  further 
decorate  with  some  nicely  cut  leaves  of  angelica.  Now  pile  the  centre 
up  with  whipped-cream-,  sweetened  and  flavoured  as  required,  set  it 
on  a  lace  paper  on  a  glass  dish  or  compote  dish,  and  send  to  table. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  Sufficient  for  8  or 
10  people. 

3378.— GENOESE  CAKE.     (Fr.— Gateau  Genoise.) 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  6  ozs.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of 
castor  sugar,  apricot  jam,  chocolate  or  any  other  icing. 

Method. — Slightly  warm  the  butter  in  a  clean  basin  until  it  is  easy  to 
beat  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  add  the  sugar  and  beat  to  a  cream  ; 
next  the  eggs  one  by  one,  then  mix  in  the  flour.  Pour  the  mixture  into 
a  buttered  baking-tin,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  about  10  minutes. 
When  cold  divide  the  sheet  in  two,  and  sandwich  together  with  apricot 
or  any  other  jam.  Coat  it  with  icing,  and  let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes. 

Time. — 15  minutes,  to  bake  the  cake.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 

3379-— GENOESE  CAKE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — A  stale  sponge  cake  or  loaf,  2  kinds  of  preserve,  the  one 
rather  acid,  the  other  sweet,  such  as  red-currant  jelly  and  apricot  jam, 
the  whites  of  4  eggs,  £  a  Ib.  of  pounded  loaf  sugar,  i  lemon. 

Method. — Cut  the  cake  into  rounds,  and  sprea4  them  with  the  two 
preserves  in  alternate  layers,  and  sandwich  the  rounds  together  again. 
Make  an  icing  of  the  sugar  as  directed  in  recipe  No.  3461,  spread  it  over 
the  cake,  and  set  for  a  few  minutes  to  harden  in  a  cool  oven. 

Time. — 30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for  10  or  12  small 
cakes. 


1434  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3380.— HOLIDAY  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  f  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of 
butter  and  dripping  or  lard  mixed,  i  Ib.  of  currants,  \  a  Ib.  of  stoned 
raisins,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  mixed  candied  peel,  2  ozs.  of  baking-powder,  3  eggs, 
i  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Mix  the  baking-powder  with  the  flour,  then  rub  in  the 
fat ;  have  ready  the  currants,  washed,  picked,  and  dried,  the  raisins 
stoned  and  cut  into  small  pieces  (not  chopped),  and  the  peel  cut  into 
neat  slices.  Add  these  with  the  sugar  to  the  flour,  etc.,  and  mix  all 
the  dry  ingredients  well  together.  Whisk  the  eggs,  stir  into  them  the 
milk,  and  with  this  liquid  moisten  the  cake  ;  beat  it  up  well,  that  all 
the  ingredients  may  be  very  thoroughly  mixed  ;  line  a  cake  tin  with 
buttered  paper,  put  in  the  cake,  and  bake  it  from  2|-  to  2f  hours  in  a 
good  oven.  To  ascertain  when  it  is  done,  plunge  a  clean  skewer  into 
the  middle  of  it,  and  if  on  withdrawing  it  looks  clean  and  not 
sticky,  the  cake  is  done.  To  prevent  its  burning  at  the  top,  a  piece 
of  clean  paper  may  be  put  over  the  cake  while  it  is  baking,  to  ensure 
it  being  thoroughly  cooked  in  the  middle. 

Time. — 2^  to  2|  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  one  large 
cake. 

3381.— HONEY  CAKE.     (Fr.— Gateau  de  Miel.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  breakfastcupful  of  sugar,  i  breakfastcupful  of 
rich-sour  cream,  2  breakfastcupfuls  of  flour,  \  a  teaspoonf ul  of  carbonate 
of  soda,  honey  to  taste. 

Method. — Mix  the  sugar  and  cream  together  ;  dredge  in  the  flour, 
add  as  much  honey  as  will  flavour- the  mixture  nicely  ;  stir  it  well, 
that  all  the  ingredients  may  be  thoroughly  mixed  ;  add  the  carbonate 
of  soda,  and  beat  the  cake  well  for  another  5  minutes.  Put  it  into  a 
buttered  tin,  and  bake  it  from  £  to  |-  of  an  hour,  and  let  it  be  eaten 
warm. 

Time. — \  to  f  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

3382.— ICED  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of  currants,  £  a  Ib.  of  sugar, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  mace  and  cloves,  12  sweet  almonds,  6  bitter  almonds, 
%  a  Ib.  of  butter,  4  eggs,  i  oz.  of  mixed  peel,  i  teaspoonful  of  carbonate 
of  soda. 

Method. — Blanch  and  split  the  almonds,  and  mix  all  the  dry  ingre- 
dients together.  Warm  the  butter  in  a  clean  basin,  add  the  sugar, 
and  beat  to  a  cream  with  the  hand  ;  add  the  eggs  i  at  a  time,  beating 
well  after  each  addition  ;  when  all  are  in,  add  the  other  ingredients, 
well  mix,  and  turn  out  into  a  round  papered  and  greased  tin.  Bake  for 
about  1 1  hours.  When  cold  cover  with  white  icing  and  decorate  to  taste. 
(See  No.  3462.) 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  8d.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1435 

3383.— INDIAN  MEAL  FLAPPERS. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  sifted  meal,  a  handful  of  wheaten  flour,  i 
quart  of  milk,  4  eggs,  i  heaped-up  saltspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  meal,  flour,  and  salt.  Beat  the  eggs  well  and  add 
them  to  the  milk  alternately  with  the  meal,  a  handful  at  a  time.  Stir 
thoroughly,  and  bake  in  small  or  large  round  cakes  on  a  hot  griddle. 

Tims. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  i  dozen  cakes. 

3384.— JOHNNY  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — i  teacupful  of  flour,  i  teacupful  of  Indian  yellow  meal, 
i  teacupful  of  milk,  i  cupful  of  \\  iblespoonful  of  brown  sugar, 

i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  a  pinch  of  salt,  2  eggs. 

Method. — The  milk  may  be  either  sour  or  fn^h.  Mix  the  dry  and 
the  wet  ingredients  in  separate  bowls,  then  put  them  together,  mix 
well,  pour  into  a  buttered  tin,  and  bake  for  £  an  hour  or  more  in  a 
quick  *>ven. 

Time. — £  hour  or  longer.     Average  Cost,  4d.      Sufficient  for  i  cake. 

3385.— LEMON  CAKE.      (Gateau  de  Citron.) 

Ingredients. — 8  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  orange-flower  water,  £  a  Ib. 
of  castor  sugar,  i  lemon,  i  Ib.  of  flour. 

Method. — Break  the  eggs  into  a  clean  basin,  add  the  sugar,  and  beat 
up  to  a  stiff  batter  with  a  wire  egg  whisk.  Add  the  orange-flower 
juice  and  rind  of  the  lemon,  continue  the  beating  for  10 
minutes,  then  take  out  the  whisk,  clean  it  off,  add  the  flour  (sifted), 
and  mix  it  in  with  a  spoon.  Butter  a  cake  mould  with  melted  butter, 
dust  it  out  with  a  little  flour  and  sugar  mixed,  turn  in  the  mixture,  tie 
a  paper  round  the  top  to  prevent  it  running  over,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Time. — About  i£  hours,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  is.  .jd.  Sufficient 
;  medium-sized  cake. 

3386. -LINCOLN  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — Take  2  Ibs.  of  flour,  |  an  02.  of  yeast,  i  Ib.  of  butter, 
6  eggs,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  Malaga  raisins,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  currants,  £  a  Ib.  of  sugar, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  saffron. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  yeast  in  ^  a  pint  of  tepid  water,  put  it  into  a 

id  stir  in  sufficient  of  the  floor  to  make  a  nice  soft  dough. 

in  the  basin  covered  over  in  a  warm  place 

to  provr.     \Vlu  n  well  proved,  take  the  remaining  flour,  turn  it  out  on 

board,  make  a  bay  in  the  centre,  put  in  the  butter  and  sugar, 

till  smooth  ;   then  add  the  eggs  and  a  piece  of 

:  dough,  and  n  11  up  together,  mixing  in  the  whole  of 


1436  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  flour,  and  adding  the  saffron  liquor  which  has  been  previously 
infused  in  a  £  of  a  pint  of  warm  water  and  strained.  Well  and 
thoroughly  mix  by  rubbing  it  on  the  board,  then  add  the  raisins  (stoned 
and  cut  up),  and  the  currants  (previously  cleaned)  ;  then  turn  it  into 
a  large  well  greased  mould,  or  2  smaller  ones,  stand  it  aside  to  prove, 
and,  when  well  proved,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  i^-  to  2  hours. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  33.  Sufficient  for  i 
large  cake. 

3387.— LUNCHEON  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  an  oz.  of  caraway 
seeds,  £  a  Ib.  of  currants,  6  ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  i  oz.  of  candied  peel, 
3  eggs,  •£-  a  pint  of  milk,  2  small  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Method. — Rub  the  baking-powder  and  butter  into  the  flour  until  it 
is  quite  fine  ;  add  the  caraway  seeds,  currants  (which  should  be 
nicely  washed,  picked  and  dried),  sugar,  and  candied  peel  cut  into 
thin  slices  ;  mix  these  well  together,  and  moisten  with  the  eggs,  which 
should  be  well  whisked,  and  with  the  milk  wet  up  the  other  ingredients 
into  a  nice  soft  cake  batter.  Butter  a  tin,  pour  the  cake  mixture  into 
it,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven  from  £  to  i  hour. 

Time. — i  to  \\  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 

3388.— MADEIRA  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  butter,  \\  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  the 
grated  rind  of  i  lemon,  2  ozs.  of  candied  peel,  5  to  6  eggs. 

Method. — Put  the  butter  and  sugar  into  a  clean  pan,  add  the  grated 
rind  of  i  lemon,  and  with  the  hand  beat  it  up  to  very  light  cream  ; 
add  in  the  eggs  i  at  a  time,  and  beat  well  after  each  addition  of  eggs  ; 
when  all  are  in  and  the  batter  is  very  light  and  creamy,  add  the  flour, 
stir  it  in  lightly  with  the  hand,  and  when  well  mixed  divide  the  mixture 
equally  into  3  or  4  round  tins,  papered  at  the  bottoms  and  sides  with 
buttered  white  paper  ;  dust  sugar  over  from  a  dredger,  and  lay  2 
very  thin  slices  of  citron  peel  on  top.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 
They  will  take  from  i  to  i£  hours  to  bake. 

Time. — i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
medium-sized  cakes. 

3389.— MARBLE  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — White  part :  2  teacupfuls  of  flour,  i£  cupfuls  of  castor 
sugar,  £  a  cupful  of  butter,  £  a  cupful  of  milk,  4  whites  of  eggs,  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Dark  part  : 
2%  cupfuls  of  flour,  £  a  cupful  of  butter,  i  cupful  of  brown  sugar,  £  a 
cupful  of  treacle,  £  a  cupful  of  milk,  3  eggs,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  car- 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1437 


bonate  of  soda,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  cloves,  cinnamon, 
mace. 

Method. — Prepare  and  mix  each  part  separately,  as  follows  : — Sift 
the  cream  of  tartar  and  soda  well  with  the  flour  on  the  board.  Then 
cream  up  the  butter  and  sugar,  adding  the  eggs  as  described  in 
previous  mixtures  ;  then  mix  in  the  flour.  For  the  dark  part  the  treacle 
and  spice  should  be  beaten  up  with  the  butter  and  sugar.  When  both 
batters  have  been  well  mixed  up,  have  prepared  2  or  more  square 
papered  frames  or  tins,  laying  the  colours  in  alternately,  and  when  all 
the  batters  have  been  used  up,  finish  by  spreading  them  out  evenly 
on  top,  using  the  back  of  a  spoon  for  the  purpose.  Then  put  them  in 
a  moderate  oven  and  bake  from  i  to  2  hours,  according  to  size.  When 
done  turn  out  on  to  a  clean  wire  or  tray,  and  when  cold  ice  over  with 
a  little  white  water  icing,  and  marble  with  a  feather  dipped  in 
cochineal  or  liquid  carmine. 

Time. — i  to  2  hours,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  2S.  Sufficient  for  2  or 
more  cakes. 

3390.— NEAPOLITAN  CAKES. 

(Fr.— Gateaux  Napolitaine.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  the  same  quantity  of  flour,  sugar, 
and  almonds,  apricot  or  any  other  jam,  a  few  preserved  cherries,  2  eggs, 
£  a  Ib.  of  icing  sugar. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  and  add  the  ground  almonds, 
mix  these  with  the  yolks  of  the  2  eggs.  Roll  the  paste  rather  thin,  cut 
it  in  rounds  with  a  plain  or  crinkled  cutter,  and  bake  till  yellow  in  a 
moderate  oven  on  a  buttered  tin.  When  cold  spread  each  round  with 
jam,  and  pile  one  over  the  other  evenly.  Mix  the  icing  sugar  with  a 
little  hot  water,  beat  it  well  and  ice  the  cakes,  decorating  them  with 
the  cherries. 

Time. — About  20  minutes,  to  bake  the  cakes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d. 
Sufficient  for  i  dozen  small  cakes. 

3391.— NICE  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — ±  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ground  rice,  £  a  Ib.  of 
castor  sugar,  5  eggs,  lemon  to  taste. 

Method. — Sieve  the  ground  rice  and  flour  well  together  on  to  a  sheet 
of  paper.  Break  the  eggs  into  a  clean  bowl,  add  the  sugar,  and  beat 
well  with  a  wire  egg-whisk  for  20  minutes,  then  take  out  the  whisk, 
clean  off  the  wires,  add  the  flavouring  and  flour,  and  mix  lightly  with 
a  spoon.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  buttered  tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  from  35  to  45  minutes,  according  to  the  heat  of  the  oven. 

Time. — 4-  to  J  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  9d.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 


1438  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3392.— PAVINI  CAKE.      (Fr.— Gateau  Pavini.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  flour,  \  a  Ib.  of  ground  rice,  \  a  Ib.  of  raisins  (stoned 
and  cut  into  small  pieces),  £  of  a  Ib.  of  currants,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter, 
2  ozs.  of  sweet  almonds,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  \  a  nutmeg  grated, 
i  pint  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-pow4er. 

Method. — Stone  and  cut  the  raisins  into  small  pieces  ;  wash,  pick 
and  dry  the  currants  ;  melt  the  butter  to  a  cream,  but  without  oiling 
it  ;  blanch  and  chop  the  almonds,  and  grate  the  nutmeg.  When  all 
these  ingredients  are  thus  prepared,  mix  them  well  together  ;  make 
the  milk  warm,  stir  in  the  baking-powder,  and  with  this  liquid  make 
the  whole  into  a  paste.  Butter  2  moulds,  rather  more  than  half  fill 
them  with  the  batter,  and  bake  the  cakes  in  a  moderate  oven  from  i£ 
to  2  hours. 

Time. — 1|  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d.     Sufficient  for  2  cakes. 

3393-—  PETITS  FOURS. 

These  may  be  made  of  any  sweet  paste,  Genoese,  pound  or  sponge  cake, 
and  allow  of  an  endless  variety  of  decoration,  with  different  icings, 
crystallised  fruits,  candied  peel,  etc.  The  simplest  way  of  making 
petits  fours  is  to  cut  Genoese,  pound,  or  sponge  cakes,  into  pretty 
fanciful  shapes,  icing  them  with  different  coloured  icings,  garnishing 
them  before  the  icing  has  set  with  crystallised  fruit,  cut  in  fine 
slices,  angelica,  almonds,  preserved  cherries,  and  similar  fruits. 

Average  Cost,  2s.  per  Ib. 

3394.— PICCOLOMINI  CAKE. 

(Fr. — Gateau  Piccolomini.) 

Ingredients. — i  cup  of  butter,  2\  cups  of  sugar,  4  eggs,  i  teacup  of 
milk,  4  cups  of  flour,  %  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  i  teaspoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar,  rose-water,  ground  nutmeg  or  almond  extract. 

Method. — Sift  the  carbonate  of  soda  and  cream  of  tartar  well  with 
the  flour  on  to  a  sheet  of  paper.  Put  the  butter  and  sugar  into  a  clean 
basin,  and  beat  up  to  a  light  cream.  Add  the  eggs  i  at  a  time,  beating 
well  after  each  addition,  and  when  all  are  in,  flavour  the  mixture 
with  rose-water  and  ground  nutmeg.  Then  add  the  flour,  wet  to  cake- 
batter  consistency  with  milk,  turn  into  a  papered,  buttered  hoop  or 
shallow  cake  tin,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized 
cake. 

3395.— PLAIN  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  \\  teaspoonfuls  of  Berwick's  baking- 
powder,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  good  dripping,  i  teacupful  of  moist  sugar,  3  eggs, 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1439 

i  breakfast-cupful  of  milk,  £  of  an  oz.  of  caraway  seeds,  £  of  a  Ib.  of 
candied  peel  cut  fine. 

Method. — Put  the  flour  and  baking-powder  into  a  basin  ;  stir  these 
together  ;  then  rub  in  the  dripping,  add  the  sugar,  caraway  seeds,  and 
peel  ;  whisk  the  eggs  with  the  milk,  and  beat  all  together  very  thor- 
oughly until  the  ingredients  are  well  mixed.  Butter  a  tin,  put  in  the 
cake  mixture,  and  bake  it  from  i£  to  2  hours.  Let  the  dripping  be 
quite  clean  before  using  ;  to  ensure  this,  it  should  be  clarified.  Beef- 
dripping  is  better  than  any  other  for  cakes,  etc.,  as  mutton-dripping 
frequently  has  a  very  unpleasant  flavour,  which  would  be  imparted  to 
the  preparation.  The  eggs  are  not  necessary. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 

3396.— PLAIN  CAKE  FOR  CHILDREN. 

Ingredients. — i  quartern  of  dough,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  moist  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib. 
of  butter  or  good  beef-dripping,  £  of  a  pint  of  warm  milk,  £  a  teaspoon- 
ful  grated  nutmeg,  or  £  an  oz.  of  caraway  seeds. 

Method. — If  bread  is  not  made  at  home,  procure  the  dough  from  the 
baker's,  and  as  soon  as  it  comes  in,  put  it  into  a  basin  near  the  fire  ; 
cover  the  basin  with  a  thick  cloth,  and  let  the  dough  remain  a  little 
while  to  rise.  In  the  meantime  beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  make 
the  milk  warm  ;  when  the  dough  has  risen,  mix  with  it  thoroughly  all 
the  above  ingredients,  and  well  rub  the  mixture  to  obtain  a  smooth 
soft  paste.  Butter  some  cake-tins,  half  fill  them,  and  stand  them  in  a 
warm  place  to  allow  the  mixture  to  rise  again.  When  the  tins  are  3 
parts  full,  put  the  cakes  into  a  good  oven,  and  bake  them  from  i|  to  2 
hours.  A  few  currants,  or  sultanas,  can  be  substituted  for  the  caraway 
seeds,  when  the  flavour  of  the  latter  is  disliked. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  nd.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  sr.udl 
cakes.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3397.— PLUM  CAKE,  COMMON. 

Ingredients. — 10  ozs.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  or  good  dripping,  10  ozs. 
of  moist  sugar,  8  ozs.  of  currants  or  raisins,  \  an  oz.  of  ground  allspice, 
i  oz.  of  distillery  yeast,  i£  pints  of  new  milk. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  sugar,  currants  or 
raisins,  and  allspice  ;  warm  the  milk,  and  dissolve  the  yeast  in  it,  mix 
the  whole  into  a  soft  dough,  knead  it  well,  and  put  it  into  6  buttered 
tins.  Place  them  near  the  fire  for  i  hour,  or  until  they  are  light,  then 
bake  the  cakes  in  a  good  oven  from  i  to  i  ]  hours.  To  ascertain  when 
they  are  done,  plunge.a  clean  skewer  in  the  middle,  and  if  on  with- 
il  it  comes  out  clean,  the  cakes  are  done. 

Time. —  i  to  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  to  make  io 
small  cakes. 


1440  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3398.— PLUM  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  lb.  of  sugar,  |  a  Ib. 
of  currants,  £  of  a  lb.  of  sultanas,  4  ozs.  of  candied  peel,  \  a  pint  of  milk, 
4-  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  ammonia,  a  pinch  of  carbonate  of  soda. 

ofethod. — Put  the  flour  into  a  basin  with  the  sugar,  soda,  currants, 
ad  sliced  candied  peel  ;  beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  mix  all  these 
ingredients  together  with  the  milk.  Stir  the  ammonia  into  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk  ;  add  it  to  the  dough,  and  beat  the  whole  well  until 
everything  is  mixed.  Put  the  batter  into  a  buttered  tin,  and  bake  the 
cake  from  i£  to  2  hours. 

Time. — \\  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  i  medium- 
sized  cake. 

3399.— PLUM  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  lb.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  \  a  lb.  of  castor  sugar, 
6  ozs.  of  currants,  6  ozs.  of  raisins,  2  ozs.  of  candied  lemon-peel,  2  ozs. 
of  sweet  almonds,  3  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  milk. 

Method. — Sift  the  flour  and  baking-powder  together,  wash,  dry,  and 
pick  the  currants,  cut  up  the  peel,  blanch  the  almonds  and  put  them 
in  either  whole  or  pounded,  as  preferred.  Beat  up  the  eggs  with  a  little 
cold  milk,  mix  them  all  well  together,  then  pour  into  a  buttered  mould. 
Bake  for  about  ij  hours  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  i  medium- 
sized  cake. 

3400.— POTATO  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — j  lb.  of  potato  flour,  \  a  lb.  of  butter  beaten  to  a  cream, 
\  a  lb.  of  castor  sugar,  2  eggs,  or  the  whites  of  4,  i  o  drops  of  essence  of 
lemon. 

Method. — Mix  the  ingredients,  and  beat  them  thoroughly  for  10 
minutes,  then  pour  into  a  cake-tin,  and  bake  for  1 5  minutes  in  a  rather 
quick  oven. 

Time. — \  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  2d.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 

3401.— POUND  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — i  lb.  of  butter,  i£  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  lb.  of  castor  sugar,  i  lb. 
of  currants,  8  eggs,  £  of  a  lb.  of  mixed  candied  peel,  2  ozs.  of  sweet  al- 
monds ;  and  if  liked,  a  little  pounded  mace. 

Method. — Shred  the  peel  very  finely,  taking  equal  quantities  of 
orange,  lemon  and  citron.  Blanch  the  almonds,  and  chop  them 
finely.  Sieve  the  flour  on  to  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  add  the  peel  and 
almonds  to  it.  Put  the  butter  into  a  clean  bowl,  and  beat  it  up  to  a 
light  cream  with  the  hand  ;  then  add  the  sugar,  and  give  it  another 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1441 

good  beating  ;  add  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time,  beating  them  after  each 
addition  of  eggs  ;  and  when  all  these  ingredients  are  in,  add  the  flour 
and  carefully  mix,  using  a  little  milk  if  necessary  to  bring  the  mixture 
to  proper  cake-batter  consistency.  Turn  the  preparation  into  round 
tins,  lined  at  the  bottoms  and  sides  with  white  greased  paper.  Bake 
it  from  i£  to  2  hours,  and  let  the  oven  be  well-heated  when  the  cake 
is  first  put  in,  otherwise  the  currants  will  all  sink  to  the  bottom.  A 
glass  of  wine  is  sometimes  added  to  the  mixture,  but  this  is  scarcely 
necessary,  as  the  cake  will  be  found  quite  rich  enough  without  it. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient. — The  above 
quantity  can  be  divided  in  2  or  more  cakes  as  desired. 

3402.— QUEEN  CAKES.     (Fr.— Gateaux  a  la  Reine.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  Ib.  of  castor  suga. 
3  eggs,  i  teacupful  of  cream,  £  a  Ib.  of  currants,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  essence  of  lemon,  or  almonds,  to  taste. 

Method. — Sieve  the  baking-powder  well  with  the  flour  on  to  a  sheet 
of  paper.  Put  the  butter,  sugar  and  cream  into  a  clean  basin,  and 
beat  up  to  a  light  cream.  Add  the  eggs  i  at  a  time.  When  all  the 
eggs  are  in,  add  the  flour  and  fruit,  and  moisten  with  milk  to  the  con- 
sistency of  cake-batter.  Put  it  into  small  buttered  tins,  and  bake  the 
cakes  from  a  £  to  £  an  hour.  Grated  lemon-rind  may  be  substituted 
for  the  lemon  and  almond  flavouring,  and  will  make  the  cakes  equally 
nice. 

Time. — £  to  £  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  pd.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  dozen 
small  cakes. 

3403.— RAISIN  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  butter,  i  Ib.  of  fine  flour,  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar, 
6  eggs,  i  liqueur- glassful  of  brandy,  i  teaspoonful  of  nutmeg,  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder,  i  Ib.  of  stoned  raisins. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  then  add  the  sugar,  the  brandy 
and  nutmeg,  and  well  beat.     Add  the  eggs  i  at  a  time,  beatim 
after  each  addition  of  eggs,  and  when  all  are  in,  add  the  flour,  with  the 
baking-powder  sifted  in.     Then  mix  in  the  stoned  and  chopped  raisins. 
Bake  in  a  paper-lined,  greased  tin  for  i£  hours  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time. — ij  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  Sufficient  for  i  medium-sized 
cake. 

3404.— RICE  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — fc  a  Ib.  of  ground  rice,  £  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of  castor 
sugar,  4  eggs,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  or  the  grated  rind  of  J- 
a  lemon,  a  Ib.  of  bui 


1442  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Sieve  the  rice  and  flour  together  on  to  a  sheet  of  paper. 
Put  the  butter  into  a  clean  basin,  add  the  yellow  rind  of  the  lemon, 
grated,  and  beat  to  a  cream.  Add  the  eggs  i  at  a  time,  and  when  all 
are  in,  add  the  flour,  moisten  to  cake-batter  consistency,  using  a  little 
milk  if  necessary.  Turn  into  i  or  2  buttered  moulds,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  from  i  to  2  hours. 

If  preferred,  the  cake  may  be  flavoured  with  essence  of  almonds. 

Time. — About  i^  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  medium- 
sized  cakes. 

3405.— RICE  CAKE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  £  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ground  rice,  \  a  Ib. 
of  castor  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon. 

Method. — Break  the  eggs  into  a  clean  bowl,  add  the  sugar,  and  beat 
up  with  a  wire  egg- whisk  for  about  20  minutes.  Then  take  out  the 
whisk  and  add  the  flour  and  ground  rice  sifted  together ;  mix  it  lightly 
with  the  hand,  or  a  wooden  spoon,  turn  into  a  buttered  mould,  or 
moulds,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  from  25  to  40  minutes,  accord- 
ing to  size. 

Time. — 50  minutes.     Average  Cost,  icd. 

3406.— ROCK  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  butter,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  \  a  Ib.  of  moist  sugar,  2  eggs, 
i  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  lemon,  i£  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder, 
a  little  milk. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter,  flour,  baking-powder  and  sugar  well  to- 
gether (the  flour  should  be  dried  and  sifted)  ;  mix  in  the  eggs  well 
beaten,  the  essence  of  lemon,  and  \  a  gill  of  milk.  Drop  the  cake- 
mixture  upon  a  baking-tin  as  roughly  as  possible,  and  bake  for  a  £  of 
an  hour  in  a  rather  quick  oven. 

Note. — Currants  or  peel  can  be  added  if  liked. 

Time. — J  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  2  dozen  cakes. 

3407.— ROCK  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i£  Ibs.  of  flour,  %  of  a  Ib. 
of  currants. 

Method. — Break  the  eggs  into  a  basin,  beat  them  well  until  very 
light,  add  the  sugar,  and  when  this  is  well  mixed  with  the  eggs,  dredge 
in  the  flour  gradually  and  add  the  currants  previously  cleaned.  Mix 
all  the  ingredients  well  together,  and  put  the  dough  with  a  fork  on  the 
tins  in  small  heaps,  making  them  look  as  rough  or  rocky  as  possible. 
Bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  from  20  to  30  minutes  ;  when  they  are 
done,  allow  them  to  get  cool,  and  store  them  away  in  a  tin  canister 
in  a  dry  place. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1443 
3408,— SAUCER  CAKE  FOR  TEA. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  best  cornflour,  £  of  a  Ib. 
of  castor  sugar,  |  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  i  oz.  of  candied  orange  or 
lemon-peel. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour  and  cornflour  together  ;  add  the  sugar, 
the  candied  peel  cut  into  thin  slices,  the  butter  beaten  to  a  cream,  and 
the  eggs  well- whisked.  Beat  the  mixture  for  10  minutes,  put  it  into 
a  buttered  cake-tin  or  mould  ;  or,  if  this  is  not  obtainable,  a  soup- 
plate  answers  the  purpose,  lined  with  a  piece  of  buttered  paper.  Bake 
the  cake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  £  to  i  hour,  and  when  cold  put  it 
away  in  a  covered  canister.  It  will  remain  good  for  some  weeks,  even 
if  it  be  cut  into  slices. 

Time. — $  to  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 

3409.— SAVOY  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — The  weight  of  4  eggs  in  castor  sugar,  the  weight  of  6  eggs 
in  flour,  a  little  grated  lemon-rind,  or  essence  of  almonds,  or  orange- 
flower  water. 

Method. — Break  the  7  eggs,  putting  the  yolks  into  one  basin  and  the 
whites  into  another.  Whisk  the  former,  and  mix  with  them  the  sugar, 
the  grated  lemon-rind,  or  any  other  flavouring  to  tast  them 

well  together,  and  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs  whisked  to  a  froth.  Con- 
tinue to  beat  the  mixture  for  a  £  of  an  hour,  take  out  the  whisk,  sieve 
in  the  flour  and  mix  it  in  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Butter  a  mould,  dust 
it  out  with  sugar  and  flour,  pour  in  the  cake  mixture,  and  bake  it  from 
i£  to  i£  hours.  Th:  v  nice  cake  for  dessert,  and  may  be  iced  for 

a  supper-table,  or  cut  into  slices  and  spread  with  jam,  to  convert  it 
into  sandwiches. 

Time. — 1|  to  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  i  i 

3410.— SCOTCH  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  flour,  2  Ibs.  of  butter,  \\  Ibs.  of  brown  sugar, 
\  an  oz.  of  caraway  seed,  \  an  oz.  of  cinnamon,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  citron-peel 
cut  into  small  pieces. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  flour  and  flavouring, 
and  make  up  into  rather  a  light  paste  ;  use  a  little  milk  if  necessary. 
Bake  in  small  buttered  cake  tins. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  ;^s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  dozen 
small  cakes. 

3411.— SCOTCH  OAT  CAKES  (RICH). 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  oatmeal,  6  ozs.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  |  a  Ib. 
of  butter  and  lard,  \  an  oz.  of  carbonate  of  soda,  £  of  an  oz.  of  tartaric 
acid,  a  little  salt,  milk. 


1444  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Weigh  the  flour  and  meal  on  to  the  board,  take  the  soda, 
acid  and  salt,  and  rub  these  ingredients  through  a  fine  hair-sieve*  on  to 
the  flour  and  meal,  then  add  the  sugar  and  fat  and  rub  together  until 
smooth  ;  make  a  bay  or  hole  in  the  centre,  and  work  into  a  smooth 
paste  with  milk,  taking  care  not  to  have  it  too  dry  or  tight,  or  consider- 
able trouble  will  be  experienced  in  rolling  out  the  cakes,  as  they  will  be 
found  very  short.  Having  wet  the  paste,  take  small  pieces  about  the 
size  of  an  egg,  and  roll  these  out  thin  and  round  with  a  small  rolling- 
pin,  dusting  the  board  with  a  mixture  partially  of  oatmeal  and  flour. 
When  rolled  down  thin  enough,  take  a  sharp  knife  and  cut  them  in 
4,  place  them  on  clean  flat  tins,  and  bake  in  a  warm  oven.  These  cakes 
require  very  careful  handling,  or  they  will  break  all  to  pieces. 

Time. — To  bake,  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient 
for  about  18  small  cakes. 

3412.— SCOTCH  OAT  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  double-dressed  Scotch  oatmeal,  \  an  oz.  of  fat 
or  butter,  i  pinch  of  carbonate  of  soda,  sufficient  to  cover  a  threepenny 
piece. 

Method. — Put  about  \  a  pound  of  meal  into  i  pint  basin,  and  have  a 
teacup,  into  which  put  a  small  piece  of  butter,  or  lard,  the  size  of  a  small 
hazel-nut,  and  a  pinch  of  carbonate  of  soda  ;  pour  on  this  about  £  a 
teacup  of  hot  water,  stir  until  the  butter  is  melted,  and  soda  is  dissolved, 
then  mix  quickly  with  the  meal  in  the  basin  with  the  point  of  a  knife, 
and  when  the  mixture  is  thoroughly  stirred,  turn  it  out  on  a  paste-board, 
and  mould  it  quite  compactly,  keeping  it  round  and  flat,  and  with  the 
knuckles  spreading  it  gradually,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  crack  at 
the  edges  ;  strew  plenty  of  dry  meal  over  it  to  roll  it  out  with  the  crimp- 
ed roller,  and  every  now  and  then  rub  the  surface  with  the  flat  of  the 
hand  to  disengage  all  superfluous  meal  ;  when  rolled  as  thin  as  a  p  nny- 
piece,  and  fairly  round,  put  the  knife  in  the  centre  and  divide  it  into  3, 
then,  having  the  girdle  over  the  fire,  lay- the  cakes  on  the  hot  iron,  the 
plain  side  down,  and  as  the  cakes  get  done,  move  them  in  succession 
from  a  cool  spot  to  a  hotter.  By  pressing  the  nail  on  the  surface,  if 
they  are  not  doughy  it  is  a  sign  that  they  are  sufficiently  baked.  With 
care  the  cakes  can  be  baked  in  a  greased  frying-pan  with  a  trivet  under- 
neath. Now  move  them  from  over  the  fire  on  to  the  toaster  before  the 
fire,  and  watch  that  they  dry  gradually,  for  they  will  soon  burn,  and 
as  they  are  taken  from  the  fire,  stand  them  carefully  on  edge  till  they 
are  quite  cold.  While  this  is  proceeding  over  the  fire  mix  more  cakes, 
and  when  one  is  ready  to  go  to  the  toaster,  fill  up  the  vacant  place. 
The  thick  cake  commonly  eaten  by  the  working  classes  is  made  by  put- 
ting a  quantity  of  meal  in  a  wooden  bowl  or  can,  adding  cold  water  at 
discretion,  mixing  in  a  compact  mass,  and  then  kneading  it  into  shape 
wholly  with  the  knuckles  :  and  proceeding  as  above  described. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1445 

Time. — 10  minutes,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  3d.  Sufficient  to  make 
6  cakes. 

3413.— SCOTCH  SHORTBREAD. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  cornflour,  or  ground  rice,  i  Ib. 
of  butter,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  sweet  almonds,  a  few  strips 
of  candied  orange-peel. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  gradually  dredge  in  the  flour, 
and  add  the  sugar,  and  sweet  almonds,  which  should  be  blanched  and 
cut  into  small  pieces.  Work  the  paste  until  it  is  quite  smooth,  and 
divide  it  into  6  pieces.  Put  each  cake  on  a  separate  piece  of  j 
roll  the  paste  out  square  to  the  thickness  of  about  i  inch,  and  pinch 
it  round  the  edges.  Prick  it  well  with  a  skewer,  and  ornament  with 
i  or  2  strips  of  candied  orange-peel.  Put  the  cakes  into  a  moderately 
heated  oven,  and  bake  from  25  to  30  minutes. 

Time. — 25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  for  this  quantity,  2s.  Suffi- 
cient to  make  6  cakes. 

3414.— SCRAP  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flead,  or  the  inside  fat  of  a  pig,  i£  Ibs.  of  flour, 
£  of  a  Ib.  of  moist  sugar,  £  a  Ib.  of  currants,  i  oz.  of  candied  lemon-peel, 
ground  allspice  to  taste. 

Method. — Cut  the  flead.  or  leaf  as  it  is  more  generally  called,  into 
small  pieces,  put  it  into  a  large  dish,  place  it  in  a  quick  oven,  taking 
care  that  it  does  not  burn,  and  in  a  short  time  it  will  be  reduced  to  oil 
with  the  small  pieces  of  leaf  floating  on  the  surface  ;  it  is  of  these  that 
tke  should  be  made.  Gather  all  the  scraps  together,  put  them 
into  a  basin  with  the  flour,  and  rub  them  well  together.  Add  the  cur- 
rants, sugar,  the  candied  peel,  cut  into  thin  slices,  and  the  ground  all- 
spice. When  all  these  ingredients  are  well  mixed,  moisten  with  suffi- 
cient cold  water  to  make  the  whole  into  a  nice  paste  ;  roll  it  out  thin, 
cut  it  into  shapes,  and  bake  the  cakes  in  a  quick  oven  from  15  to  20 
minutes.  These  are  very  economical  and  wholesome  cakes  for  children, 
and  the  lard,  melted  at  home,  produced  from  the  flead,  is  generally 
better  than  the  purchased  article.  To  prevent  the  lard  from  burning, 
and  to  ensure  its  being  of  a  good  colour,  it  is  better  to  melt  it  in  a  jar 
placed  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  thus  preventing  its  discolouring. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  iod.,  for  this  quantity. 
Sufficient  to  make  3  or  4  dozen  cakes. 

3415.— SEED  CAKE,  VERY  GOOD. 

Ingredients.— £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  6  eggs,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar, 
pounded  mace  and  grated  nutmeg  to  taste,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  an  oz.  of 
caraway  seeds. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  the  sugar,  mace,  nutmeg, 


1446  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  cara\vay  seeds,  and  beat  these  ingredients  well  together.  Whisk 
the  eggs  and  beat  them  gradually  into  the  mixture;  then  mix  in  the  flour, 
using  a  little  milk  if  necessary,  to  bring  it  to  cake-batter  consistency. 
Put  it  into  a  tin  lined  with  buttered  paper,  and  bake  it  from  i^  to  2 
hours  in  a  moderate  oven.  This  cake  would  be  equally  nice  made  with 
currants,  omitting  the  caraway  seeds. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.       Sufficient  for  i  cake. 

3416.— SEED  CAKE,  COMMON. 

Ingredients. — £  a  quartern  of  dough,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  good  dripping,  10 
ozs.  of  moist  sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  caraway  seeds,  i  egg. 

Method. — If  the  dough  is  sent  from  the  baker's,  put  it  in  a  basin 
covered  with  a  cloth,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  Then  spread 
it  out  over  the  board,  add  the  fat,  egg  and  sugar,  and  rub  together  the 
ingredients  until  they  are  thoroughly  mixed.  Put  the  mixture  into  a 
buttered  tin,  and  bake  the  cake  for  rather  more  than  2  hours. 

Time. — Rather  more  than  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  pd.  Sufficient  for 
i  large  cake. 

3417.— SEED  CAKES  OR  SEED  BUNS. 

Ingredients. — 4  eggs,  4  teacupfuls  of  sugar,  2  teacupfuls  of  butter, 
i  teacupf ul  of  milk,  i  tablespoonf ul  of  caraway  seeds,  £  a  teaspoonf ul 
of  carbonate  of  soda,  |-  of  a  Ib.  of  flour. 

Method. — Beat  the  ingredients  well  together,  adding  the  flour  by 
degrees,  until  a  paste  thick  enough  to  roll  out  is  made.  Make  into  small 
cakes,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost  is.  Sufficient  for  3  to  3^ 
dozen  small  cakes  or  buns. 

3418.— SNOW  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  arrowroot,  or  best  cornflour,  £  of  a  Ib. 
of  pulverized  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  fresh,  or  washed  salt  butter,  i  egg 
and  the  whites  of  2,  the  juice  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream  ;  add  the  egg,  previously  well 
beaten,  then  the  other  ingredients  ;  if  the  mixture  is  not  sufficiently 
light,  add  another  egg,  and  beat  for  a  £  of  an  hour,  until  it  turns  white 
and  light.  Line  a  flat  tin  with  raised  edges  with  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  pour  in  the  cake,  and  put  it  into  the  oven.  It  must  be  rather 
slow,  and  the  cake  must  not  be  allowed  to  brown  at  all.  If  the  oven 
is  properly  heated,  i  to  i£  hours  will  be  found  long  enough  to  bake  the 
cake.  Let  it  cool,  then  with  a  clean,  sharp  knife  cut  it  into  small  square 
pieces,  which  should  be  gently  removed  to  a  large  flat  dish  to  get  cool 
before  putting  away.  This  cake  will  keep  for  several  weeks. 

Time. — i  to  \\  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1447 

3419. — SNOW  CAKE.     (A  genuine  American  recipe.) 
(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — }  a  Ib.  of  arrowroot,  10  ozs.  of  Vienna  flour,  £  a  Ib.  of 
castor  sugar,  \  a  Ib.  of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of  cream  of  tartar,  the  whites 
of  6  eggs,  flavouring  to  taste,  essence  of  almonds,  vanilla,  or  lemon. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  stir  in  the  sugar,  and  beat  the 
mixture  to  a  light  cream.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
add  them  to  the  other  ingredients,  and  beat  well  tor  20  minutes.  Put 
in  whichever  of  the  above  flavourings  may  be  preferred,  then  add  the 
flour,  arrowroot  and  cream  of  tartar,  well  silted  together,  and  mix  ; 
then  pour  the  cake  into  a  buttered  mould  or  tin,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate 
a  from  i  to  i£  hours. 

Time. — i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  with  the  best  Bermuda  arrow- 
root. 2S.  pd.  ;  with  St.  Vincent  arrowroot,  2s.  Sufficient  to  make  a 
moderate-sized  cake. 

3420.— SODA  CAKE. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  \  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar, 
£  a  Ib.  of  currants,  i  egg,  a  gill  of  butter-milk,  i  tcaspoonful  of  carbonate 
of  soda,  mace  and  nutmeg  to  ta 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  sugar,  currants  and 
flavouring.  Beat  the  egg  well,  add  it  to  the  dry  ingredients  and  well 
mix.  leaving  a  tablespoonful  of  the  milk  to  dissolve  the  soda,  adding 
this  just  before  putting  into  the  oven,  and  well  mix  it  through  the  1 
Hake  in  buttered  moulds.  Prick  with  a  knitting  needle  or  small 
^kewcr;  it  this  comes  out  clean  the  cakes  are  sufficiently  done.  A  nice 
lunch  or  tea  cake. 

Time. — 20  minutes  or  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  2 
medium-sized  cakes. 

3421.— SODA  CAKE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — \  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  \  a  Ib.  of  currants,  \  a 
Ib.  of  moist  sugar,  i  teacupful  of  butter-milk,  3  eggs,  i  tcaspoonful  of 
carbonate  of  soda. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour  with  the  soda,  add  the  currants 

and  su.cir.  and  mix  11  together.     Whisk  the  eggs 

well,  stir  them  to  the  flour,  etc..  with  the  milk,  in  which  the 
.  and  lx.it  tin-  \\  h"k  up  together  with  wooden 
spoon  or  spatula.  Divide  the  dou»h  into  j  pieces,  put  them 
into  buttered  moulds,  or  cake-tins,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  (or  nearly  i  hour.  The  mixture  must  t  Iv  well-! 

up,  and  not  allowed  to  soda  IMS  been  added  to  it.  but 

must  immediately  be  placed  in   |  care  must  also  be 


1448  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

taken  that  the  cakes  are  quite  done  through,  which  may  be  ascertained 
by  thrusting  a  skewer  into  the  middle  of  them  ;  if  it  looks  bright  when 
withdrawn  they  are  done.  If  the  tops  acquire  too  much  colour  before 
the  inside  is  sufficiently  baked,  cover  them  with  a  piece  of  clean  paper, 
to  prevent  them  from  burning. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  to  make  2  suiall  cakes. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3422.— SODA  CAKE  FOR  TEA. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  £  a  pint  of  butter-milk, 
2  small  teaspoonfuls  of  carbonate  of  soda,  a  few  caraway  seeds,  or 
about  6  ozs.  of  currants  and  raisins,  -J  a  Ib.  of  brown  sugar,  a  little  can- 
died peel,  i  or  2  eggs. 

Method. — Warm  the  butter  sufficiently  to  melt  it,  also  warm  the  milk, 
and  mix  the  carbonate  of  soda  very  smoothly  in  it.  Put  all  the  dry 
ingredients  together  first,  then  add  the  liquids  ;  bake  at  once,  in  tins 
well  greased,  in  a  rather  slow  oven,  for  i  hour  or  more.  If  the  butter 
is  melted  in  the  tins  and  just  runs  round  them,  it  answers  every  purpose. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  2  small  cakes. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3423.— SPONGE  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — The  weight  of  8  eggs  in  castor  sugar,  the  weight  of  5 
eggs  in  flour,  the  rind  of  i  lemon,  i  tablespoonful  of  brandy. 

Method. — Put  the  eggs  into  one  side  of  the  scale,  and  take  the  weight 
.  of  8  in  castor  sugar,  and  the  weight  of  5  in  good  dry  flour.  Separate 
the  yolks  from  the  whites  of  the  eggs  ;  beat  the  former,  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  the  sugar,  and  let  them  remain  over  the  fire  until  milk- 
warm,  keeping  them  well  stirred.  Then  put  them  into  a  basin,  add 
the  grated  lemon-rind,  mixed  with  the  brandy,  and  beat  these  ingre- 
dients well  together.  Whisk  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth, 
stir  them  to  the  other  ingredients,  and  beat  the  cake  well  for  a  £  of  an 
hour.  Then  take  out  the  whisk,  sieve  in  the  flour,  and  mix  it  lightly 
with  a  wooden  spoon.  Put  it  into  a  buttered  mould,  dusted  out  with 
a  little  finely-sifted  sugar  and  flour,  and  bake  the  cake  in  a  quick  oven 
for  i£  hours.  Care  must  be  taken  that  it  is  put  into  the  oven  immedi- 
ately, or  it  will  not  be  light.  The  flavouring  of  this  cake  may  be  varied 
by  adding  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  almonds,  instead  of  the  grated 
lemon-rind. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 

3424.— SPONGE  CAKE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Take  6  fresh  eggs,  the  weight  of  5  of  them  in  castor 
sugar,  and  of  3  in  very  fine  dry  flour,  the  rind  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  into  a  shallow,  flat-bottomed  dish,  and  break 


FANCY    CAKES. 


I.   French  Gateau.  j.    \Valnut  Cake. 


3  A* 


ROLLS  AND   CAKES, 


Scones.         2.  Queen  Cakes.        3.  Milk  Rolls. 


104 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       144-1 

the  eggs  on  to  it,  being  careful  to  smell  each  one  as  you  break  it,  as  a 
bad  or  musty  egg  would  spoil  the  preparation.  Add  to  this  the  grated 
rind  of  i  small  lemon,  and  beat  the  whole  for  20  minutes.  The  best 
whisk  for  this  purpose  is  the  spoon-shaped  kind,  the  bowl  being  com- 
posed of  open  wire-work.  Then  sift  in  the  flour,  stirring  as  lightly  as 
possible  till  all  is  mixed  in.  Put  into  a  well-buttered  tin  and  a  brisk 
oven  immediately. 

Time. — £  to  £  hour.     Average  Cost,  Qd.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 

3425. -SPONGE  CAKES,  SMALL. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  i  pint  of  eggs,  or  equnl 
weights  of  eggs,  flour  and  sugar,  essence  of  lemon  or  other  flavouring. 

Method. — Let  the  flour  be  perfectly  dry,  and  the  sugar  sifted.  Put 
the  eggs  and  the  sugar  into  a  basin  together,  and  set  it  over  a  saucepan 
of  hot  water.  Whisk  the  mixture  until  it  is  white  and  creamy,  for 
about  1 5  or  20  minutes.  Add  the  flour  very  quickly,  with  the  flavour- 
ing, mix  lightly  with  a  spoon,  butter  the  tins  well,  pour  in  the  batter, 
sift  a  little  sugar  over  the  cakes,  and  bake  them  in  rather  a  quick  oven, 
but  do  not  allow  them  to  take  too  much  colour,  as  they  should  be  rather 
pale.  This  is  a  very  good  way  to  mix  all  kinds  of  light  cakes  in  which 
there  are  a  good  many  eggs.  Remove  the  cakes  from  the  tins  before 
they  get  cold,  and  turn  them  on  to  a  wire  sieve,  where  let  them  remain 
until  quite  cold,  when  store  them  away  in  a  closed  tin  canister,  or  wide- 
mouthed  glass  bottle.  They  are  apt  to  stick  to  the  tins,  which  should 
not  be  washed,  but  well  greased  with  suet,  over  which  fine  flour  or  sugar 
is  dusted. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes  in  a  quick  oven.  Average  Cost,  id.  each. 
Sufficient  for  3  dozen  small  cakes. 

3426.— SPONGE  CAKES.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  not  quite  £  of  a  pint  of  water. 
5  eggs,  i  lemon,  £  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of 
ammonia. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  until  they  form  a  thick 
syrup  ;  let  it  cool  a  little,  then  pour  it  to  the  eggs,  which  should  be 
previously  well  whisked  ;  and  after  the  eggs  and  syrup  are  mixed  to- 
gether, continue  beating  them  for  15  minutes.  Grate  the  lemon-rind, 
mix  the  carbonate  of  ammonia  with  the  flour,  and  stir  these  lightly  to 
the  other  ingredients  ;  then  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  when  the  whole 
is  thoroughly  mixed,  pour  it  into  small  buttered  moulds,  and  bake  in 
rather  a  quick  oven  for  i  hour.  The  remains  of  sponge  or  savoy  cakes 
answer  very  well  for  trifles,  light  puddings,  etc.,  and  a  very  stale  one 
makes  an  excellent  tipsy  cake. 

Time. — Rather  more  than  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  Qd.  Sufficient  to 
12  cakes. 


1450  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3427.— STRAWBERRY  SHORTCAKE. 

Ingredients. — i  cup  of  sour  or  butter-milk,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
J  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  i  cup  of  flour. 

Method. — Mix  the  soda,  butter  and  salt  into  the  flour,  and  wet  it  up 
into  a  nice,  free  paste  with  the  milk.  Divide  it  into  four,  roll  it  up 
round  under  the  hand,  and  flatten  out  with  a  rolling-pin ;  place  it  on 
to  a  suitable-sized  tin  (baking-tin),  dock  or  prick  it  all  over  with  a  fork 
or  skewer,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  While  baking,  take  i£  pints  of 
strawberries  and  mash  them  fine.  When  the  cakes  are  baked,  allow 
them  to  get  cold,  spread  them  over  with  butter,  dredge  on  a  layer  of 
sugar,  then  strawberries,  then  sugar,  and  place  another  cake  on  top, 
the  buttered  side  downwards ;  dredge  the  top  with  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  2  cakes. 
Seasonable  in  June  and  July. 

3428.— TEA-CAKES. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  flour,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter 
or  lard,  i  egg,  £  an  oz.  of  distillery  yeast,  warm  milk. 

Method. — Put  the  flour,  which  should  be  perfectly  dry,  into  a  basin, 
mix  with  it  the  salt,  and  rub  in  the  butter  or  lard  ;  make  a  bay,  pour  in 
the  yeast,  dissolve  in  a  little  warm  milk,  add  the  egg,  and  then  sufficient 
warm  milk  to  make  the  whole  into  a  smooth  paste,  and  knead  it  well. 
Let  it  rise  near  the  fire,  and  when  well  risen  form  it  into  cakes  ;  place 
them  on  tins,  let  them  rise  again  before  placing  them  in  the  oven,  and 
bake  from  a  £  to  \  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  These  cakes  are  also 
very  nice  with  the  addition  of  a  few  currants  and  a  little  sugar  to  the 
other  ingredients,  which  should  be  put  in  after  the  paste  is  moistened. 
The  cakes  should  be  buttered  and  eaten  hot  as  soon  as  baked  ;  but, 
when  stale,  they  are  very  nice  split  and  toasted  ;  or,  if  dipped  in  milk, 
or  even  water,  and  covered  with  a  basin  in  the  oven  till  hot,  they  will 
be  almost  equal  to  new. 

Time. — £  to  \  hour.  Average  Cost,  icd.  Sufficient  to  make  8  tea- 
cakes. 

3429.— TEA-CAKES,  SMALL. 

Ingredients. — 2  teacupfuls  of  flour,  i  teacupful  of  ground  rice,  i-J  of 
moist  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  lard  or  dripping,  2  eggs,  lemon 
to  taste. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  and  lard,  beat  well,  and  add  the  mixture 
to  the  flour  and  rice  ;  then  put  in  the  eggs  and  sugar,  well  beating  them 
together  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  using  a  little  milk  if  necessary  to 
give  the  proper  consistency,  then  bake  in  small  cakes  on  a  tin  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Time. — 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  gd.  Sufficient  for  12  or  14  small 
tea-cakes. 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1451 
3430.— TEA-CAKES,  TO  TOAST. 

Method. — Cut  each  tea-cake  into  3  or  4  slices,  according  to  its  thick- 
ness ;  toast  them  on  both  sides  before  a  nice  clear  fire,  and  as  each 
slice  is  done,  spread  it  with  butter  on  both  sides.  When  a  cake  is 
toasted,  pile  the  slices  one  on  the  top  of  the  other,  cut  them  into  quarters, 
put  them  on  a  very  hot  plate,  and  send  the  cakes  immediately  to  table. 
As  they  are  wanted,  send  them  in  hot,  i  or  2  at  a  time,  for  they  spoil  if 
allowed  to  stan'd,  unless  kept  in  a  muffin-plate  over  a  basin  of  boiling 
water. 

3431.—  TENNIS  CAKE. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar, 
£  a  Ib.  of  chopped  raisins,  2  ozs.  of  almonds,  3  ozs.  of  candied-peel,  the 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  i  lemon,  8  eggs,  preserved  cherries,  angelica, 
icing. 

Method. — Sieve  the  flour  on  to  a  piece  of  paper.  Stone  the  raisins  and 
cut  them  up.  Blanch  the  almonds,  dry  them  in  front  of  the  fire,  or  in 
the  oven,  and  chop  them  up  into  neat  pieces.  Put  the  sugar  and  butter 
into  a  clean  basin,  and  beat  these  ingredients  up  to  a  light  cream,  add 
the  flavouring,  and  then  beat  in  the  eggs  i  at  a  time.  When  all  the 
eggs  have  been  beaten  in,  add  the  flour  and  fruit,  and  well  mix,  using  a 
little  milk  if  necessary  to  bring  it  to  cake-batter  consistency.  Line 
a  cake-tin  with  greased  white  paper,  put  in  the  cake,  and  bake  it  in  a 
well-heated  oven  for  i£  hours.  Ice  the  cake  with  white  icing,  and  be- 
fore it  is  set,  ornament  it  with  cherries  and  angelica,  the  latter  cut  as 
leaves  ;  any  other  icing  may  be  used,  and  such  garnishing  as  fancy 
may  suggest. 

Time. — 1£  to  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  i  good-sized 
cake.  Suitable  for  a  tennis  afternoon  tea. 

— An  iced  cake  gives  scope  for  a  great  many  pretty  ornamentations, 
and  the  accompanying  plate  shows  some  easily  executed  patterns,  and 
gives  directions  for  piping. 

3432.— TENNIS  CAKE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. —  i  £  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  Ib.  of  raw  sugar,  14  ozs.  of  butter,  i  Ib. 
of  currants,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  sultanas,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  mixed  candied-peel,  £  of 
an  oz.  of  mixed  spice,  essence  of  lemon,  8  eggs. 

Method. — Sieve  the  flour  on  to  a  piece  of  paper,  add  the  currants, 
sultanas  and  peel  (shred  finely).  Put  the  butter  and  sugar  into  a  clean 
bowl,  add  the  flavouring,  and  beat  up  to  a  light  cream,  beat  in  the  eggs 
i  at  a  time,  beating  well  after  each  addition,  and  when  all  are  in,  add  the 
flour  and  fruit,  and  mix.  Prepare  2  or  3  square  tins  by  papering  them 
with  greased  white  paper,  and  divide  the  mixture  equally  between  them  ; 
flatten  down  the  top  and  cover  with  a  sheet  of  white  paper,  then  bake 


1452         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

in  a  moderate  oven  from  i  to  i-J-  hours.  When  done,  turn  out  on  to  a 
sieve,  and  leave  the  cake  to  get  cold.  Then  strip  off  all  the  paper,  and 
make  up  the  almond  paste  (No.  3459),  dividing  it  between  the  3  cakes, 
keeping  the  paste  perfectly  level  on  top  and  flush  with  the  sides.  Then 
ice  over  the  top  of  the  almond-icing  with  some  white  water  icing,  and 
while  that  is  wet  sprinkle  thickly  with  blanched  and  chopped  pistachio 
kernels,  then  with  some  cake-icing  pipe  a  couple  of  tennis-racquets 
crossed  upon  the  centre,  and  also  pipe  a  border  round  the  edge  with 
the  same  icing,  to  complete  the  cake. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  a  party  of  30  or  more  persons. 

3433.  —THANKSGIVING  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  butter,  9  eggs,  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i£  Ibs.  of 
flour,  \  a  nutmeg,  i  teaspoonful  of  mixed  cinnamon  and  mace,  ground, 
2  ozs.  of  candied  lemon-peel,  2  ozs.  of  blanched  and  chopped  almonds, 
i\  Ibs.  of  dried  currants. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  eggs  well 
beaten,  mix  in  the  flour,  and  add  the  other  ingredients.  Beat  all  thor- 
oughly together,  prepare  a  round  tin  by  lining  with  paper,  turn  in  the 
batter,  flatten  it  out  with  the  hand,  and  bake  for  2  hours  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  Sufficient  for  i  cake. 
Seasonable  on  July  4th. 

3434.— TIP  TOP  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — Take  2  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  Ib.  of  butter,  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar, 
6  eggs,  2  teacupfuls  of  raisins  chopped,  or  currants,  i  wineglass  of 
sherry,  clove,  cinnamon,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream  ;  add  the  eggs  i  at 
a  time,  beating  well  after  each  addition  of  eggs,  and  when  all  are  in, 
add  the  flour,  fruit  and  spice,  and  lastly  the  wine.  Bake  on  tin  sheets 
in  small  cakes  dropped  from  a  tablespoon.  This  recipe  makes  a  large 
quantity,  which  will  keep  fresh  for  a  long  time. 

Time. — 10  minutes,  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  about 
5£  Ibs.  of  cake. 

3435-— A  NICE  USEFUL  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  6  ozs.  of  currants;  £  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar, 
i  Ib.  of  dried  flour,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  3  eggs,  i  teacupful 
of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  sweet  almonds,  i  oz.  of  candied  peel. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream  ;  wash,  pick  and 
dry  the  currants,  whisk  the  eggs,  blanch  and  chop  the  almonds,  and  cut 
the  peel  into  neat  slices.  When  all  these  arc  ready,  mix  the  dry  in- 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  'CAKES       1453 

gradients  together,  then  add  the  butter,  milk  and  eggs,  and  beat  the 
mixture  well  for  a  few  minutes.  Put  the  cake  into  a  buttered  mould 
or  tin  lined  with  paper,  and  bake  it  for  rather  more  than  i£  hours  in 
a  moderate  oven.  The  currants  and  candied  peel  may  be  omitted, 
and  a  little  lemon  or  almond  flavouring  substituted  for  them  ;  made 
in  this  manner,  the  cake  will  be  found  very  good. 

Time. — Rather  more  than  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d. 

3436.— VANILLA  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  3  eggs,  £  a 
teacupful  of  new  milk,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  dry  flour,  i  teaspoon ful  of  baking- 
powder,  essence  of  vanilla. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  the  sugar  and  beaten  egg- 
yolks,  beat  the  mixture  for  some  minutes,  then  add  the  whites.  Put 
the  baking-powder  in  the  flour,  add  it,  and  beat  well,  adding  a  few  drops 
of  essence  of  vanilla,  and  using  the  milk  to  bring  it  to  proper  consis- 
tency. Finely-cut  candied  peel  may  be  added,  or  substituted  for  the 
vanilla,  if  preferred.  Put  the  cake  into  a  buttered  tin,  and  bake  for  i 
hour. 

Time.— i  hour.     Average  Cost,  gd.     Sufficient   for  i  cake. 

3437-— VICTORIA  SANDWICHES. 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
3  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  a  little  milk,  jam,  salt. 

Method. — Stir  the  sugar  and  yolks  of  eggs  together  until  thick  and 
creamy,  then  add  the  butter  melted.  Pass  the  flour,  baking-powder 
and  a  good  pinch  of  salt  through  a  sieve,  stir  it  lightly  into  the  rest 
of  the  ingredients,  and  add  milk  by  degrees  until  the  mixture  drops 
readily  from  the  spoon.  Now  whisk  the  whites  of  eggs  stiffly,  stir  them 
in  as  lightly  as  possible,  and  pour  the  preparation  into  a  well-buttered 
Yorkshire  pudding-tin.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  about 
20  minutes,  let  it  cool,  split  in  halves,  spread  thickly  with  jam,  replace 
the  parts,  and  press  lightly  together.  Cut  into  finger-shaped  pieces, 
arrange  them  in  groups  of  3,  letting  the  layers  cross  each  other,  sprinkle 
liberally  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  i£  to  i£  hours,  altogether.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient 
for  i  large  dish. 

3438.— WAFFLES   OR  WAFERS. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  milk,  6  eggs,  |  of  a  Ib.  of  butter.  2  ozs.  of  distillery 
compressed  yeast,  salt,  flour. 

Method. — Beat  the  CLJI;S.  and  melt  the  butter,  then  dissolve  the  yeast 
in  a  little  of  the  milk,  mix  all  together,  then  add  in  sufficient  flour  to 


1454  'HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

make  a  nice,  smooth,  thin  batter.     Set  this  to  rise,  and  bake  in  waffle- 
irons,  which  may  be  obtained  at  an  ironmonger's. 

Time. — 10  to  15  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d.     Sufficient  for  about  3 
dozen  wafers  or  waffles. 


3439.— WEBSTER  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  cup  of  butter,  -*-  a  cup  of  sugar,  2  eggs,  3  cups  of  flour, 
\  a  cup  of  milk,  \  a  cup  of  currants,  nutmeg,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder. 

Method. — Mix  and  beat  the  above  ingredients  till  thoroughly  blended, 
then  put  into  a  buttered  mould,  and  bake  for  %  an  hour  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

Time. — \  hour.     Average  Cost,  8d.     Sufficient  for  i  cake. 


3440.— WEDDING  CAKE,  VERY  GOOD. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  butter,  2  Ibs  of  castor  sugar,  \  a  gill  of  caramel, 
2\  Ibs.  of  flour,  1 8  eggs,  3  Ibs.  of  currants,  3  Ibs.  of  sultanas,  \\  Ibs.  of 
mixed  peel,  \  a  Ib.  of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  the  grated  rind  of 
2  lemons,  \  a  small  nutmeg,  i  oz.  of  mixed  spice,  and  \  a  pint  of  brandy. 

Method. — After  cleaning  the  fruit  and  grating  the  nutmeg,  cream 
the  butter  and  sugar  together,  and  beat  well  till  very  light  and  smooth. 
Add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  work  in  the  eggs  i  at  a  time.  Work 
the  flour  in  gradually,  and  then  the  remainder  of  the  ingredients,  but 
only  beat  in  a  little  at  a  time.  See  that  the  whole  is  thoroughly 
mixed.  Have  ready  a  large  cake  tin,  line  it  with  brown  paper,  and 
allow  at  least  3  rounds  of  paper  for  the  bottom  ;  then  put  in  the 
mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  cool  oven  for  5  hours.  When 
done  allow  it  to  stand  for  i  or  more  days,  then  cover  with  almond 
icing,  and  coat  with  royal  and  transparent  icing.  Lastly  pipe  the 
cake  with  royal  icing  according  to  taste.  (See  No.  3463.) 

Time. — 6  hours.  Sufficient  for  a  moderate-sized  cake.  Average  Cost, 
is.  6d.  per  Ib. 

3441.— WEDDING  CAKE.     (Another  Method.) 

See  Bride  or  Christening  Cake,  No.  3354. 

3442.— YEAST  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  flour,  \  a  pint  of  milk,  \  Ib.  of  butter,  3  ozs.  of 
distillery  yeast,  3  eggs,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  currants,  £  a  Ib.  of  white  moist  sugar, 
2  ozs.  of  candied  peel. 

Method. — Put  the  milk  and  butter  into  a  saucepan  and  shake  it  round 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1455 

over  the  fire  until  the  butter  is  melted,  but  do  not  allow  the  milk  to 
become  very  hot.  Put  the  flour  and  sugar  into  a  basin,  stir  it  to  the 
milk  and  butter,  the  yeast  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  milk,  and  the  eggs, 
which  should  be  well  beaten,  and  form  the  whole  into  a  smooth  dough. 
Let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place,  covered  with  a  cloth,  to  rise,  and  when 
sufficiently  risen  add  the  currants,  and  candied  peel  cut  into  thin  slices. 
When  all  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly  mixed,  line  2  moderate-sized 
cake-tins  with  greased  paper,  which  should  be  put  6  inches  higher  than 
the  tin  ;  pour  in  the  mixture,  let  it  stand  to  rise  again  for  another  £ 
hour,  and  then  bake  the  cakes  in  a  brisk  oven  for  about  i£  hours.  If 
the  tops  of  them  become  too  brown,  cover  them  with  paper  until  they 
are  done  through.  A  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  or  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  may  be  added  if  this  flavour  is  liked. 

Time. — From   i£  to   i£  hours.     Average  Cost,   is.    6d.      Sufficient  to 
make  2  moderate-sized  cakes. 


3443.— YORKSHIRE  GINGER  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — 3  eggs,  \  a  pint  of  cream,  i  Ib.  of  butter,  £  a  Ib.  of  castor 
sugar,  2\  ozs.  of  ground  ginger,  2  Ibs.  of  flour,  a  little  salt. 

Method. — Whisk  the  eggs  thoroughly,  add  the  cream,  and  beat  these 
together.  Put  the  mixture  into  a  saucepan,  stirring  till  warm  ;  add 
the  butter,  sugar  and  ginger,  carefully  stirring  over  a  very  moderate 
fire.  When  the  butter  has  melted,  stir  in  the  flour,  adding  salt,  and 
make  into  a  paste  (the  flour  must  be  fine).  Roll  out  the  paste  and  cut 
it  out  with  a  plain  round  paste  cutter  on  to  buttered  flat  tins,  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Time. — £  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  lod.  Sufficient  for  3  to  4  dozen 
small  cakes. 


Muffins,  Crumpets,   Rolls   and 

Toast 

3444.— MUFFINS. 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  water,  2  ozs.  of  yeast,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  potatoes, 
£  an  oz.  of  salt,  flour. 

Method. — Wash,  peel  and  boil  the  potatoes,  rub  through  a  colander, 
add  the  water  (just  warm  enough  to  bear  the  hand  in  it  with- 
out discomfort)  ;  then  dissolve  the  yeast  and  salt  in  it,  and  stir  in 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  moist  paste.  Beat  it  wrell  in  a  deep  bowl, 
and  then  clear  off  the  paste  from  the  hands  ;  cover  over  with  a  clean 


1456  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

cloth,  and  leave  it  to  rise  in  a  warm  place.  When  it  has  well  risen, 
and  is  light  and  spongy,  turn  it  out  on  the  table,  dredge  over  with 
flour,  and  then  divide  it  off  into  pieces  about  3  ozs.  in  weight,  roll 
them  up  into  round  shapes,  and  set  them  on  a  wooden  tray,  well 
dusted  with  flour,  to  prove.  When  light  enough,  see  that  the  hot  plate 
is  hot,  and  then  carefully  transfer  the  muffins  from  the  tray,  one  at 
a  time,  using  a  thin  tin  slice  for  the  purpose,  taking  particular  care 
not  to  knock  out  the  proof,  or  the  muffins  will  be  spoilt.  When  they 
have  been  properly  cooked  on  one  side,  turn  over  with  the  slice  and 
cook  the  other  side.  When  the  muffins  are  done  brush  off  the  flour, 
and  lay  them  on  a  clean  cloth  or  sieve  to  cool. 

To  toast  them,  divide  the  edge  of  the  muffin  all  round,  by  pulling  it 
open  to  the  depth  of  about  i  inch  with  the  fingers.  Put  it  on  a  toasting 
fork,  and  hold  it  before  a  clear  fire  till  one  side  is  nicely  browned,  but 
not  burnt  ;  turn,  and  toast  it  on  the  other.  Do  not  toast  them  too 
quickly,  otherwise  the  middle  of  the  muffin  will  not  be  warmed  through. 
When  done,  divide  them  by  pulling  them  open  ;  butter  them  slightly 
on  both  sides,  put  them  together  again,  and  cut  them  into  halves. 
When  sufficient  are  toasted  and  buttered,  pile  them  on  a  very  hot 
dish,  and  send  them  very  quickly  to  table. 

Time. — From  25  to  30  minutes  to  bake  them.    Average  Cost,  id.  each. 


3445.— CHESTER  MUFFINS. 

Ingredients. — 4  quarts  of  flour,  2  quarts  of  milk,  i  teacupful  of  sugar, 
i  teacupful  of  butter,  i  teacupful  of  yeast,  4  eggs,  a  little  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  butter  and  sugar  together  ;  add  the  eggs,  salt, 
milk,  flour  and  yeast  (dissolved) ;  let  it  rise  all  night.  Make  up  into 
shapes  of  even  size.  Bake  for  20  minutes. 

Time. — 20  minutes  to  bake.     Average  Cost,  2d.  each. 


3446.— CRUMPETS. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  water,  2  ozs.  of  yeast,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  potatoes, 
\  an  oz.  of  salt,  flour. 

Method. —  Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  directed  for  muffins,  but  stir 
in  only  half  the  quantity  of  flour  used  for  them,  so  that  the  mixture  is 
more  of  a  batter  than  sponge.  Cover  over,  and  leave  for  %  afi  hour. 
At  the  end  of  that  time  take  a  large  wooden  spoon  and  well  beat  up 
the  batter,  leave  in  the  spoon,  cover  over,  and  leave  for  another  £  hour. 
Then  give  the  batter  another  good  beat  up.  This  process  must  be 
repeated  3  times  with  the  intervals.  When  completed,  see  that  the 
hot  plate  is  quite  hot,  lay  out  some  crumpet  rings  rubbed  over  inside 
with  a  little  clean  lard  on  a  baking  tin,  and  pour  in  sufficient  of  the 
batter  to  make  the  crumpets.  When  cooked  on  one  side,  turn  over 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES    1457 

with  a  palette  knife,  and  when  done  take  off  on   to  a  clean  cloth  to 
cool.     Muffins  and    crumpets    should    always    be  served  on  separate 
dishes,  and  both  toasted  and  served  as  quickly  as  possible. 
Time.— 20  minutes  to  cook.     Average  Cost,  Id.  each. 

3447.— EXCELLENT  ROLLS.     (Fr.— Petits  Pains.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  butter  or  lard,  £  an  oz.  of  yeast, 
i  pint  of  water,  a  little  salt. 

Method. — The  process  for  making  rolls  is  exactly  the  same  as 
directed  for  bread,  but  the  quantity  being  smaller,  it  requires  more 
yeast,  and  wants  nursing  and  keeping  warm.  When  the  dough  is 
ready,  turn  it  out  on  the  board  and  knead  it  well  over,  then  let  it  lie 
for  a  few  minutes  to  recover  itself,  divide  into  small  pieces,  mould  them 
up  round,  and  set  them  on  a  clean  flat  tin  that  will  tit  the  oven.  Cover 
them  over  with  a  damp  clean  cloth,  let  them  stand  in  a  warm  place  to 
prove ;  when  nice  and  light  uncover,  brush  over  with  an  egg  beaten  up 
in  a  cup,  taking  care  not  to  knock  out  any  of  the  proof,  and  then  bake 
in  a  moderately  heated  oven  for  about  25  mimr 

If  preferred,  milk  can  be  used  instead  of  water.  Almost  all  fer- 
mented dough  will  make  a  very  satisfactory  roll,  but  of  course  the 
dough  is  not  always  available.  There  is  nothing,  however,  to  prevent 
these  rolls  being  made  for  breakfast,  or  hot  tea  bread  upon  baking 
days.  It  is  quite  optional  whether  fat  is  used  in  them  or  not ;  the 
principal  advantage  of  the  fat  is  that  the  rolls  will  be  of  a  more  even 
texture,  and  the  crust  will  eat  short  and  crisp  instead  of  being  tough. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Average  Cost,  4d.     Sufficient  for  12  rolls. 

3448.— HOT  ROLLS.     (Fr.— Petits  Pains.) 

Ingredients. — These,  although  very  unwholesome  and  indigestible, 
are  nevertheless  a  great  favourite,  and  are  eaten  by  many  persons.  As 
soon  as  the  rolls  come  from  the  baker's  they  should  be  put  into  the 
oven,  which,  in  the  early  part  of  the  morning,  is  sure  not  to  be  very 
hot  ;  and  the  rolls  must  not  be  buttered  until  wanted.  When  they 
are  quite  hot,  divide  them  lengthwise  into  3,  put  some  thin  flakes  of 
good  butter  between  the  slices,  press  the  rolls  together,  and  place 
them  in  the  oven  for  i  or  2  minutes,  but  not  longer,  or  the  butt< 
oil.  Take  them  out  of  the  oven,  spread  the  butter  equally  ovrr  them, 
divide  the  rolls  in  half,  put  them  on  to  a  very  clean  hot  dish,  and  send 
them  instantly  to  table. 

Time. — 10  minutes.     Average  Cost,  id.  each. 

3449.— NICE  ROLLS.     (Fr.— Petits  Pains.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  4  ozs.  of  powdered  lump 
sugar,  2  eggs,  i  teaspoon ful  of  baking-powder,  and  a  pinch  of  salt. 


1458  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Mix  all  these  ingredients  well  together,  and  work  into  a  stiff 
dough  with  a  little  milk.  Roll  it  out  £  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  into 
rolls,  throw  them  into  a  pan  of  boiling  water  on  the  fire,  and  directly 
they  rise  to  the  top,  which  will  be  in  a  minute  or  so,  if  the  water  is 
really  boiling,  take  them  out  and  put  them  into  a  pan  of  cold  water  for 
i  or  2  hours,  if  not  quite  ready  to  bake  them.  Then  bake  the  rolls  for 
20  minutes  in  a  quick  oven,  a  light  brown. 

Time. — 20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  /d.     Sufficient  for  20  rolls. 

3450.— DRY  TOAST,  TO  MAKE.     (Fr.— Pain  Grille.) 

Method. — To  make  dry  toast  properly,  a  great  deal  of  attention  is 
required  ;  much  more,  indeed,  than  people  generally  suppose.  Never 
use  new  bread  for  making  any  kind  of  toast,  as  it  is  moist  and  tough, 
and,  in  addition,  is  very  extravagant.  Procure  a  loaf  of  household 
bread  about  2  days  old  ;  cut  off  as  many  slices  as  may  be  required, 
not  quite  a  %  of  an  inch  in  thickness  ;  trim  off  the  crusts  and  ragged 
edges,  put  the  bread  on  a  toasting  fork,  and  hold  it  before  a  very  clear 
fire.  Toast  it  carefully  until  the  bread  is  nicely  coloured  ;  then 
turn  it  and  toast  the  other  side,  but  do  not  hold  it  so  close  to  the  fire 
that  it  blackens.  Dry  toast  should  be  made  more  gradually  than 
buttered  toast,  as  its  best  feature  is  its  crispness,  and  this  can- 
not be  attained  unless  the  process  is  slow,  and  the  bread  is  allowed 
gradually  to  colour.  Toast  should  never  be  made  long  before  it  is 
wanted,  as  it  soon  becomes  tough  unless  placed  on  the  fender  in  front 
*of  the  fire.  Directly  each  piece  is  ready,  it  should  be  put  into  a  rack 
or  stood  upon  its  edges  and  sent  quickly  to  table. 

3451.— HOT  BUTTERED  TOAST,  TO  MAKE. 

(Fr. — Pain  Roti  au  Beurre.) 

Method. — A  loaf  of  household  bread  about  2  days  old  answers  for 
making  toast  better  than  cottage  bread,  the  latter  not  being  a  good 
shape  and  too  crusty  for  the  purpose.  Cut  as  many  nice  even  slices 
as  may  be  required,  rather  more  than  a  £  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and 
toast  them  before  a  very  bright  fire,  without  allowing  the  bread  to 
blacken,  which  spoils  both  the  appearance  and  flavour  of  toast.  When 
both  sides  are  nicely  coloured,  put  the  toast  on  a  hot  plate  ;  divide  some 
good  butter  into  small  pieces,  place  these  on  the  toast,  set  this  before 
the  fire,  and  when  the  butter  is  just  beginning  to  melt,  spread  it  lightly 
over  the  toast.  Trim  off  the  crust  and  ragged  edges,  divide  each  round 
into  4  pieces,  and  send  the  toast  quickly  to  table.  Some  persons  cut 
the  pieces  of  toast  across  from  corner  to  corner,  thus  making  the  pieces 
of  a  three-cornered  shape.  Soyer  recommends  that  each  slice  should 
be  cut  into  pieces  as  soon  as  it  is  buttered,  and  when  all  are  ready,  that 
they  should  be  piled  lightly  on  the  dish  they  are  intended  to  be  served 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1459 

on.  He  says  that  by  cutting  through  3  or  4  slices  at  a  time,  all  the 
butter  is  squeezed  out  of  the  upper  ones,  while  the  bottom  one  is 
swimming  in  fat  liquid.  It  is  highly  essential  to  use  good  butter  for 
making  this  dish. 


Gingerbread  and  Rusks 

3452.-. GINGERBREAD,  ANDREW'S.     (Fr.— Pain  de 
Gingembre.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  4 
eggs,  i  tables poonful  of  ginger,  6  ozs.  of  golden  syrup. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter,  sugar  and  golden  syrup  to  a  cream,  and 
beat  in  the  eggs  one  at  a  time  :  add  the  flour,  mixed  with  the  ginger, 
till  the  mixture  is  thick  enough  to  roll  out.  Roll  into  thin  sheets,  cut 
out  with  a  plain  round  cutter,  and  bake  on  flat  baking  tins. 

Time. — To  bake,  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient 
for  about  4  dozen  cakes. 

3453-— GINGERBREAD  HONEYCOMB. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  flour,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  the  coarsest  brown  sugar, 
\  a  Ib.  of  treacle,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of  allspice, 
2  tables poonfu Is  of  ground  ginger,  the  peel  of  \  a  lemon  grated,  and  the 
whole  of  the  juice. 

Method. — Mix  all  these  ingredients  together,  forming  a  paste 
sufficiently  thin  to  spread  upon  baking  sheets.  Beat  it  well,  butter 
the  tins,  and  spread  the  paste  very  thinly  over  them  ;  bake  it  in  a 
rather  slow  oven,  and  watch  it  until  it  is  done  ;  withdraw  the  tins, 
cut  the  gingerbread  in  squares  with  a  knife  to  the  usual  size  of  water 
biscuits,  about  4  inches  square,  and  roll  each  piece  round  the  fingers 
as  it  is  raised  from  the  tin. 

Time. — \  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.     Sufficient  for  4  dozen  squares. 

3454.— GINGERBREAD,  THICK. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  treacle,  ^  of  a  Ib.  of  butter,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  coarse 
brown  sugar,  i|  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  oz.  of  ginger,  \  an  oz.  of  ground  allspice, 
i  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  £  of  a  pint  of  warm  water,  3  eggs. 

Method. — Put  the  flour  into  a  basin,  with  the  sugar,  ginger,  and 

allspice  ;    mix  these  together  ;    warm  the  butter,  and  add  it  with  the 

le  to  the  other  ingredients.     Stir  well  ;   make  the  water  just  warm. 

dissolve  the  carbonate  of  soda  in  it,  and  mix  the  whole  into  a  nice  smooth 

dough  with  the  eggs,  which  should  be  previously  well  whisked  ;   pour 


1460  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  mixture  into  a  buttered  tin,  and  bake  it  from  f  to  i  hour,  or  longer 
should  the  gingerbread  be  very  thick.     Just  before  it  is  done,  brush 
the  top  over  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  up  with  a  little  milk,  and 
put  it  back  in  the  oven  to  finish  baking. 
Time. — £-  to  i  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  4d. 

3455.— GINGERBREAD,  WHITE. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  •£  a  Ib.  of  butter,  \  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar, 
the  rind  of  i  lemon,  i  oz.  of  ground  ginger,  i  nutmeg  grated,  £  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  ammonia,  i  gill  of  milk. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  sugar  and  minced 
lemon-rind,  ginger  and  nutmeg.  Mix  these  ingredients  well  together, 
make  the  milk  just  warm,  stir  in  the  ammonia,  which  should  be  in 
fine  powder,  and  work  the  whole  into  a  nice  smooth  paste.  Roll  it 
out  with  the  rolling-pin,  cut  it  into  cakes,  place  these  on  to  clean 
greased  baking  tins,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  15  to  20 
minutes. 

Time. — 15  to  20  minutes.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d. 

3456.— RUSKS.     (Suffolk  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  flour,  2  ozs  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  2 
ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  3  eggs,  £  an  oz.  of  distiller's  yeast. 

Method. — Put  the  milk  and  butter  into  a  saucepan,  and  keep  stirring 
it  round  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  the  latter  is  melted.  Put  the  flour 
into  a  basin  with  the  sugar,  mix  these  well  together,  and  pour  the  beaten 
eggs  into  the  centre.  Add  the  yeast  dissolved  in  a  little  tepid  water  to  the 
milk  and  butter,  and  with  this  liquid  work  the  flour  into  a  smooth  dough. 
Lay  a  cloth  over  the  basin,  and  leave  the  dough  to  rise  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  ;  then  knead  it  and  divide  it  into  1 2  pieces,  mould  up  round, 
set  on  to  a  clean  greased  plate  ;  prove  well  ;  then  place  them  in  a 
brisk  oven  and  bake  for  about  20  minutes.  Take  the  rusks  out,  break 
them  into  halves,  and  then  set  them  in  the  oven  to  get  crisp  on  the 
other  side.  When  cold,  they  should  be  put  into  tin  canisters  to  get  dry. 
If  the  rusks  are  intended  for  the  cheese  course,  the  sifted  sugar 
must  be  omitted. 

Time. — 20  minutes,  to  bake  the  rusks;  5  minutes  to  render  them 
crisp  after  being  divided.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  to  make  2  dozen 
rusks. 

3457._RUSKS. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  tablespoonful 
of  brewer's  yeast,  2  Ibs.  of  flour,  4  eggs,  i  quart  of  milk. 

Method. — Mix  the  yeast  with  the  sugar  and  i  teacupful  of  warm  milk  ; 
pour  it  into  the  centre  of  the  flour  in  a  deep  bowl  and  let  it  rise  for  i 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS,  AND  CAKES       1461 

hour  in  a  warm  place.  The  sponge  should  then  be  sufficiently  light. 
Mix  with  it  and  the  rest  of  the  flour  the  remaining  milk,  the  eggs,  and 
a  little  salt,  beating  the  whole  well  with  a  wooden  spoon  ;  then  put  it 
into  a  buttered  tin,  set  it  to  rise  for  another  hour,  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and,  when  cold,  cut  the  cake  into  thin  slices  and  dry  them  in  a 
quick  oven,  having  previously  sprinkled  them  with  pounded  sugar. 
These  rusks  will  be  found  a  delicious  substitute  for  toast  for  an  invalid, 
and  are  appetising  and  nourishing. 
Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 

3458.— ITALIAN  RUSKS. 

Ingredients. — A  stale  savoy  or  sponge  cake  may  be  converted  into 
very  good  rusks,  in  the  following  manner.  Cut  the  cake  into  slices, 
divide  each  slice  in  two  ;  put  them  on  a  baking-sheet  in  a  slow  oven, 
and  when  they  are  of  a  nice  brown  and  quite  hard  the  rusks  are  done. 
They  should  be  kept  in  a  closed  tin  canister  in  a  dry  place,  to  preserve 
their  crispness. 

PANNICLED  MILLET. — This  cereal  has  the  smallest  seeds  of  any  of  the  corn  plants,  being  a  true 
grass  ;  but  the  number  of  seeds  contained  in  each  ear  makes  up  for  their  diminutive  size.  It  grows 
in  sandy  soils  that  will  not  sustain  many  other  kinds  of  grain,  and  forms  the  chief  sustenance  of  the 
population  in  the  arid  districts  of  Arabia,  Syria,  Nubia,  and  parts  of  India.  Millet  is  not  cultivated 
in  England,  being  principally  confined  to  the  East.  The  nations  who  make  use  of  it  grind  it  in  the 
primitive  manner  between  two  stones,  and  make  it  into  a  form  of  diet  which  cannot  properly  be 
called  bread,  but  is  rather  a  kind  of  soft,  thin  cake,  half-baked. 


Icing 


3459.— ALMOND  ICING  FOR  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — To  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar  allow  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ground 
sweet  almonds,  2  or  3  eggs,  a  little  rose  or  orange-flower  water. 

Method. — Weigh  the  castor  sugar  and  ground  almonds  into  a  clean 
basin,  and  mix  them  well  together  ;  make  a  hole  in  the  centre,  break 
in  the  2  eggs,  add  a  little  rosewater,  and  wet  up  into  a  firm  paste,  using 
another  egg  if  necessary.  Turn  the  mixture  out  of  the  pan  on  to  the 
board,  dusting  it  over  with  sugar  to  prevent  it  from  sticking,  then  roll 
it  out  with  a  rolling  pin  to  the  size  of  the  cake,  place  it  on  top  and  press 
smooth  with  the  hand.  This  quantity  of  icing  would  be  sufficient  for 
a  cake  weighing  from  2  to  3  Ibs. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib. 

3460.— ICING  FOR  MARBLE  CAKE, 

Ingredients. — i  teacupful  of  icing  sugar,  a  little  warm  water. 

Method. — Put  some  icing  sugar  into  a  clean  basin,  taking  sufficient 
to  ice  the  cakes,  which  of  course  will  always  depend  upon  the  thickness 
put  upon  them,  and  pour  upon  the  sugar  sufficient  boiling  water  to 


1462         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

mix  it  up  into  rather  a  thick  cream,  beating  it  up  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  adding  the  water  gradually  to  the  sugar  until  the  proper  con- 
sistency is  obtained,  then  use  as  previously  directed. 

This  icing  will  dry  rather  quickly,  with  a  good  gloss.  It  can  be 
flavoured  with  any  kind  of  essence,  and  coloured  with  vegetable  colours 
as  may  be  required. 

Time. — £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  icing  sugar,  6d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  i  cake. 

3461.— SUGAR  ICING  FOR  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — To  every  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar  allow  the  whites  of  4  eggs 
and  i  oz.  of  fine  starch. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  gradually  sift  in  the 
sugar,  which  should  be  reduced  to  the  finest  possible  powder,  and 
gradually  add  the  starch,  also  finely  powdered.  Beat  the  mixture  well 
until  the  starch  is  smooth  ;  then  with  a  spoon  or  broad  knife  lay  the 
icing  equally  over  the  cakes.  These  should  then  be  placed  in  a  very 
cool  oven  and  the  icing  allowed  to  dry  and  harden,  but  not  to  colour. 
The  icing  may  be  coloured  with  strawberry  or  currant  juice,  or  with 
prepared  cochineal.  If  it  be  put  on  the  cakes  as  soon  as  they  are 
withdrawn  from  the  oven,  the  icing  will  become  firm  and  hard  by  the 
time  the  cakes  are  cold.  On  very  rich  cakes,  such  as  wedding,  christen- 
ing cakes,  etc.,  a  layer  of  almond  icing  (No.  3458)  is  usually  spread  over 
the  top,  and  over  that  the  white  icing  as  described.  All  iced  cakes 
should  be  kept  in  a  very  dry  place. 

Average  Cost,  is.  per  Ib, 

3462.— TO  ICE  A  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  icing  sugar,  the  whites  of  2  eggs,  orange- 
flower  water. 

Method. — Beat  these  ingredients  as  in  preceding  recipe,  and  while  the 
cake  is  still  warm,  pour  and  smooth  the  icing  evenly  over  it  ;  then  dry 
in  a  moderate  heat  to  harden,  but  not  to  colour  the  icing. 

Average  Cost. — Icing  sugar,  6d.  per  Ib. 

3463.— TO  ICE  A  WEDDING  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  confectioner's  icing  sugar,  the  whites  of  6  eggs, 
the  juice  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Icing  sugar  can  now  be  obtained  from  almost  every  grocery 
store  in  the  kingdom,  or  failing  that,  a  pastrycook  would  supply  the 
quantity  required.  Having  procured  the  sugar,  take  a  very  clean 
basin  and  spoon,  turn  in  the  sugar,  and  carefully  break  in  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  ;  add  a  small  pinch  of  blue,  and  then  proceed  to  beat  up 
the  icing.  When  well  beaten  and  smooth,  add  the  strained  juice  of 


RECIPES  FOR  BREAD,  BISCUITS   AND  CAKES    1463 

I  lemon,  then  beat  it  up  thoroughly  until  it  will  stand  up  in  the  pan. 
Now  take  the  cake  and  set  it  on  an  inverted  plate,  or  if  you  have  it,  a 
regular  turn-table  used  by  confectioners  for  the  purpose.  Take  up 
sufficient  icing  to  cover  the  top  with  a  spoon,  and  lay  it  upon  the  centre 
of  the  cake.  Now  take  a  large  pliable  palette  knife  and  spread  the 
icing  level  on  top.  Then  take  up  small  portions  of  the  icing  with  the 
point  of  the  palette  knife,  spread  it  smoothly  round  the  side,  and  when 
the  cake  is  completely  enveloped,  stand  it  aside  in  a  warm  place  to 
dry.  During  the  time  the  cake  is  drying  and  as  soon  as  it  is  hard 
enough,  a  thin  sheet  of  paper  should  be  lightly  laid  over  to  prevent  the 
dust  from  spoiling  the  colour  of  the  cake. 
Average  Cost. — Icing  sugar,  6d.  per  Ib. 

3464.— TO  ICE  A  WEDDING  CAKE. 

(Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Whites  of  3  eggs,  i  Ib.  of  icing  sugar,  lemon  or  vanilla 
flavouring. 

Method. — Grind  and  sift  the  sugar,  and  add  it  to  the  well-beaten 
whites  of  eggs  and  the  flavouring.  Beat  until  the  icing  mixture  is  firm 
and  stiff,  then  proceed  as  in  preceding  recipe. 

Average  Cost.— Icing  sugar,  4d.  to  6d.  per  Ib. 


Yeast 

3465.— YEAST,  TO  MAKE. 

Ingredients. — 1£  ozs.  of  hops,  4  quarts  of  water,  ij  Ibs.  of  bruised  or 
ground  malt,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  liquid  yeast. 

Method. — Put  the  hops  into  a  boiler,  add  the  water,  put  on  the  lid. 
and  set  them  over  the  fire  to  boil  for  about  £  an  hour,  or  until  all  the 
hops  have  sunk  to  the  bottom.  Then  strain  the  liquor  into  a  clean 
wooden  bucket,  squeeze  out  the  hops  and  throw  them  away.  Let  the 
resultant  liquor  stand  for  5  or  10  minutes,  or  until  the  face  can  be  seen 
reflected  in  it,  then  turn  in  the  malt,  stir  up  well  with  a  clean  spoon, 
cover  over,  and  let  it  stand  until  lukewarm,  or  about  70°  Fahr.  Then 
put  in  £  a  pint  of  yeast  and  the  £  of  a  Ib.  of  flour,  stir  it  well  up  with  the 
hand,  cover  over  with  a  cloth,  and  let  it  remain  in  a  warm  corner  undis- 
turbed for  at  least  8  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  give  it  a  good  stir 
up,  and  strain  away  the  grains,  squeeze  them  dry,  and  put  the  whole 
of  the  liquor  into  bottles  ;  after  stirring  it  well  up,  tie  over  with  string, 
and  keep  it  in  a  cool  cellar.  £  a  pint  of  this  yeast  will  be  sufficient  for 
about  20  Ibs.  of  flour.  \Vhcn  required  for  use,  it  is  usual  to  first  set 
what  is  termed  a  ferment,  as  follows  : — first  wash,  clean,  and  then  boil 
about  2  Ibs.  of  potatoes,  without  salt  ;  when  cooked  strain  off  and  turn 


1464  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

them  into  a  clean  wooden  bucket.  Take  a  rolling-pin  and  pound  the 
potatoes  down  with  it ;  add  about  %  a  Ib.  of  flour,  and  mix  it  well  into 
the  scalding  hot  potatoes  with  the  rolling-pin  ;  add  i  quart  of  water, 
and  stir  all  the  ingredients  well  up  together,  and  when  it  has  cooled 
down  to  75°  Fahr.,  shake  well,  and  add  £  a  pint  of  the  previously  made 
yeast.  Stir  well  in  with  the  hand,  breaking  up  the  potatoes,  and  then 
cover  over  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  let  it  stand  "the  same  as  the  yeast, 
in  a  warm  place  to  work  or  ferment.  In  about  3  hours  it  will  have 
come  up  and  dropped,  and  it  is  necessary,  to  ensure  good  bread,  that 
it  should  drop.  Prepare  the  flour  in  a  large  pan,  or  wooden  trough  ; 
make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  flour,  if  the  pan  is  used,  and  if  a  trough, 
at  one  end,  and  strain  in  the  ferment  or  "  comp.,"  add  about  3  ozs.  of 
salt,  or  more  if  liked,  and  sufficient  water  to  wet  the  20  Ibs.  of  flour  into 
dough,  knead  it  well,  and  leave  it  as  dry  as  possible ;  cover  over  with  a 
cloth,  and  leave  it  to  prove  in  a  warm  place  for  about  3  hours,  then 
give  it  another  good  kneading  over  with  flour,  cover,  and  prove  for 
another  hour.  Then  turn  out  to  the  board,  divide  into  suitable-sized 
pieces,  mould  up  into  loaves,  and  when  nicely  proved  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven. 

3466.— YEAST,  TO  MAKE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  hops,  6  quarts  of  water,  i  Ib.  of  ground  malt, 
£  a  Ib.  of  brown  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  flour,  %  a  pint  of  yeast. 

Method. — Proceed  exactly  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  the  pre- 
vious recipe,  but  place  the  sugar  and  malt  in  the  bottom  of  the  tub, 
and  strain  the  scalding-hot  liquor  from  the  hops  upon  it  ;  then  cover 
over,  and  when  cooled  down  to  70°'  Fahr.,  stir  in  the  yeast  and  flour, 
and  leave  it  to  work  as  before  directed.  It  can  be  made  into  bread  in 
exactly  the  same  way  as  described,  and  will  make  most  excellent  bread ; 
but  during  the  process  particular  care  must  be  taken  to  exclude  all 
draughts,  and  all  the  utensils  used  must  be  scrupulously  clean. 


PIPING  OR    FANCY   CAKE    ICING, 


Make  an  ordinary  grocer's  paper  ba£,  place  one  of  the  piping  funnels  at  the  Itottom.  p°ur 
th«-  j-r.'p.ired  ^n^.ir  into  the  bag,  and  tear  the  paper  off  the  point  of  ;t.  Hold  tin-  b.i-  i  ,  the  rmht 
li.ind.  and  with  the  fingers  of  the  left  squeeze  the  sugar  thr  ni^h  tho  funnol.  The  pipingtiibes 
have  teeth,  and  patterns  of  piping  vary  according  to  the  "  outlet." 


BEVERAGES,    JELLIES,    ETC. 


i.  Coffee  Cadbury's  Cocoa,  French  Coffee,  Vi-Cocoa,  Fry's  Cocoa  Ceylon  Tea,  Coffee  and 
Milk,  Nestle's  Milk,  Ceylon  Tea,  Cocoa  and  Milk,  Van  Houten's  Cocoa.  2.  Essence  of  Vanilla, 
Calves'  Feet  Jelly,  Table  Jelly,  Maple  Syrup,  Essence  of  Cochineal,  Orange  Jelly,  Lime  Juice 
Cordial,  Lemon  Jelly,  Lemon  Squash,  Lemon  Jelly. 

106 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS 
ON  BEVERAGES 

CHAPTER  XI  VIII 

BEVERAGES  may  be  broadly  divided  into  four  classes:  (i)  Water  and 
milk  ;  (2)  Beverages  of  a  simple  character,  generally  infusions  or 
decoctions  ;  (3)  Beverages  consisting  of  mineral  waters  drawn  from 
natural  springs,  or  water  containing  a  considerable  quantity  of  carbonic 
acid  gas  ;  (4)  Beverages  containing  alcohol. 

Water. — To  whichever  class  our  beverages  belong,  water  is  the  basis 
of  them  all.  Even  our  solid  food  contains  a  large  proportion  of  \v 
and  nothing  is  of  more  importance  to  the  housekeeper  than  to  obtain 
an  ample  supply  of  sufficiently  pure  water.  We  say  "  sufficiently 
pure,"  for  absolutely  pure  water,  consisting  only  of  2  parts  of  hydrogen 
to  i  of  oxygen,  does  not  exist  in  nature  ;  and  when  it  is  obtained  by 
the  distiller's  art,  it  is  flat  and  distasteful  to  those  who  have  not  accus- 
tomed themselves  to  its  use.  Water,  as  we  get  it,  is  never  pure  ;  the 
important  point  is  its  freedom  from  impurities  dangerous  to  h- 
Dissolved  air  and  gases  make  it  bright  and  sparkling;  they  are  driven 
off  by  boiling,  and  hence  the  insipid  taste  and  dull  appearance  of  boiled 

hatever  source  water  is  obtained,  it  once  existed  in  the 
form  of  rain.  In  the  country  it  may  pass  through  the  air  to  the  ground 
in  i  pure  state,  but  in  manufacturing  towns  considerable  impurities 
are  added  to  it  in  its  passage.  Whatever  its  condition  as  it  falls  upon 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  it  is  rapidly  changed  in  its  passage  through 
>me  rocks,  like  granite,  are  insoluble,  some,  as  for  example 
chalk,  are  readily  soluble,  especially  in  water  containing  carbonic  acid 
gas,  which  rain  washes  down  out  of  the  air.  So,  while  one  kind  of 
water  may  contain  only  £  a  grain  of  mineral  matter  in  a  gallon,  another 
has  many  grains  in  the  gallon.  We  call  the  latter  a  "  hard  "  water, 
and  object  to  it  for  cooking  purposes  for  several  reasons.  It  tends  to 
make  the  meat  and  vegetables  cooked  in  it  hard  ;  it  wastes  soap  ;  it 
deposits  "  fur  "  on  saucepans  and  kettles.  The  "  fur  "  is  the  mineral 
matter  once  dissolved  in  the  water,  now  thrown  down  in  the  saucepan  : 
(i )  because  the  water  has  boiled  away  and  gone  off  in  steam,  leaving 
behind  it  the  mineral  that  could  not  be  vapourized  ;  (2)  because 

1465 


1466         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

carbonate  of  lime  is  dissolved  only  in  water  that  contains  carbonic 
acid  gas,  and  the  gas  is  driven  off  as  soon  as  the  water  boils,  and  long 
before  it  has  boiled  away.  It  is  upon  this  last  reason  that  the  softening 
of  water  by  boiling  depends.  The  harshness  of  water  is  also  caused 
by  sulphates.  In  the  latter  case  boiling  does  not  soften  the  water. 

Organic  impurities,  by  which  is  meant  the  animal  and  vegetable 
matter  often  present  in  water,  are  highly  dangerous.  Sewage  con- 
tamination may  exist  in  palatable  sparkling  water.  This  danger  is 
increasing  owing  to  the  more  and  more  prevailing  custom  of  diluting 
sewage  with  water.  The  dangers  and  wastefulness  of  this  system  of 
drainage,  especially  when  applied  in  country  districts  near  the  sources 
of  our  great  water  supplies,  are  clearly  shown  in  the  writings  of  those 
who  have  recently  devoted  considerable  attention  to  this  all-important 
subject. 

Cisterns  in  which  water  is  stored  should  be  carefully  cleansed  at 
frequent  intervals.  Water  brought  on  to  premises  in  a  pure  condition 
may  be  contaminated  by  neglecting  this  precaution.  Cisterns  should 
also  be  provided  with  close-fitting  lids  ;  this  prevents  small  animals 
and  much  dust  from  falling  into  the  water. 

To  Purify  Water. — Water  that  is  unfit  to  drink  is  not  made  in  any 
way  less  harmful  by  the  addition  of  spirits,  wine,  or  any  flavouring 
matter.  It  may  be  rendered  harmless  by  boiling,  which  is  the  only 
practicable  household  means  of  purifying  water.  Most  of  the  decoc- 
tions and  infusions  are  useful  in  this  respect,  because  the  water  of 
which  they  are  made  must  be  boiled,  the  flavouring  matter  afterwards 
being  added  to  conceal  the  insipidity.  Boiled  water  can  be  aerated 
by  pouring  it  from  one  jug  to  another,  if  only  a  small  quantity  has  to 
be  dealt  with. 

Filters  should  not  be  resorted  to  instead  of  boiling  as  a  means  of 
purifying  water.  Many  simple  forms  of  filters  may  be  usefully  em- 
ployed as  a  mechanical  means  of  separating  suspended  matter,  but 
few,  if  any,  remove  or  destroy  impurities  in  perfect  solution.  Spongy 
iron,  carbon  and  sand  are  valuable  filtering  agents,  but  one  of  the  best 
mediums  is  porcelain,  the  only  objection  to  filters  made  of  this  sub- 
stance being  the  slow  passage  of  the  water  through  them. 

Tea. — The  most  popular  non-alcoholic  beverage  in  this  country  is  tea, 
now  considered  almost  a  necessary  of  life.  Previous  to  the  middle  of 
the  seventeenth  century  it  was  not  used  in  England.  Pepys  says  in  his 
Diary:  "September  25th,  1661. — I  sent  for  a  cup  of  tea  (a  China 
drink),  of  which  I  had  never  drunk  before."  Four  years  later  it  was 
so  rare  a  commodity  in  England  that  the  English  East  India  Company 
bought  2  Ibs.  2  ozs.  of  it  as  a  present  for  his  Majesty.  In  1666  it  was 
sold  in  London  for  60  shillings  a  pound.  From  that  date  the  con- 
sumption has  gone  on  increasing  from  5,000  Ibs.  to  215,000,000  Ibs., 
an  annual  consumption  of  about  6  Ibs.  per  head  of  the  population  of 
Great  Britain. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  BEVERAGES  1467 

The  Tea  Plant. — The  cultivation  of  the  plant  requires  great  care.  It 
is  raised  chiefly  on  the  sides  of  hills  ;  and,  in  order  to  increase  the 
quantity  and  improve  the  quality  of  the  leaves,  the  shrub  is  pruned, 
so  as  not  to  exceed  the  height  of  from  2  to  3  feet,  much  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  vine  is  treated  in  France.  They  pluck  the  leaves,  one  by 
one  selecting  them  according  to  the  kind  of  tea  required  ;  and,  not- 
withstanding the  tediousness  of  the  operation,  each  labourer  is  able  to 
gather  from  4  to  1 5  Ibs.  a  day.  When  the  trees  attain  to  6  or  7 
years  of  age,  the  produce  becomes  so  inferior  that  they  are  removed 
to  make  room  for  a  fresh  succession,  or  they  are  cut  down  to  allow  of 
numerous  young  shoots.  Teas  of  the  finest  flavour  consist  of  the 
youngest  leaves  ;  and  as  these  are  gathered  at  four  different  periods 
of  the  year,  the  younger  the  leaves  the  higher  flavour  the  tea  and  the 
scarcer,  and  consequently  the  dearer  the  article. 

Indian  and  Ceylon  Teas. — Much  Indian  and  Ceylon  tea  is  now  brought 
to  this  country,  and  is,  as  a  rule,  more  highly  flavoured  than  the 
Chinese,  which  it  has  displaced  to  so  great  a  degree  that  now  only 
about  10  per  cent,  of  the  tea  consumed  in  this  country  comes  from 
China,  the  remaining  90  per  cent,  being  imported  chiefly  from  Assam 
and  Ceylon.  The  best  tea  is  comparatively  high  priced,  but  not 
necessarily  dear,  as  some  tea  is  heavy  and  some  light,  so  that  a  tea- 
spoonful  does  not  bear  the  same  ratio  to  every  pound,  nor  produce 
the  same  strength  of  infusion.  "  Strong,  brisk,  family  tea "  is 
generally  warranted  to  produce  the  greatest  quantity  of  the  blackest 
liquid  from  a  given  number  of  spoonfuls,  but  the  connoisseur  does  not 
need  to  be  told  that  the  best  tea  generally  produces  a  pale-coloured 
infusion,  and  the  depth  of  colour  is  not  an  invariable  sign  of  strength. 
Orange,  mandarin,  imperial  pekoe  are  used  sparingly  in  this  country, 
generally  to  mix  with  other  qualities.  Caravan  tea  comes  overland 
to  Russia,  where  it  is  sold  at  a  high  price,  on  the  supposition  that 
the  sea  voyage  destroys  the  flavour.  Some  is  brought  to  this  country. 
Twankay,  Hyson  and  Gunpowder  are  green  teas  ;  their  use  in  England, 
has,  however,  now  practically  ceased.  Tea,  when  chemically  analysed,  is 
found  to  contain  woody  fibre,  extractives,  colouring  matters,  and 
mineral  ash.  A  more  important  constituent  is  the  tannin,  or  tannic 
acid,  to  which  it  owes  its  bitter  taste,  particularly  noticeable  when 
the  tea  has  stood  for  a  long  time,  or  has  been  boiled.  It  is  to  the  tannin 
that  its  decided  and  often  baneful  effects  upon  the  digestive  organs 
are  ascribed,  effects  that  are  most  noticeable  in  those  persons  who  have 
the  habit  of  drinking  tea  that  has  stood  or  "  drawn  "  for  a  length  of 
time. 

The  constituent  theine  is  now  found  to  be  identical  with  caffeine  in 
coffee,  theobromine  in  cocoa,  and  with  the  vegetable  alkaloid  found 
in  mate,  the  tea  of  Paraguay.  It  must  be  considered  as  something 
more  than  coincidence  that  men  under  widely  different  circumstances 
of  life,  and  in  widely  removed  countries,  should  have  brought  into 


1468  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

universal  use  beverages  of  identical  effect,  obtained  from  plants  of 
entirely  different  species.  Tea  cannot  be  regarded  as  an  article  of 
food,  for  the  nourishment  it  contains  is  that  of  the  milk  and  sugar 
mixed  with  it,  and  no  more.  Theine  acts  directly  on  the  nervous 
system,  and  it  is  for  the  sake  of  this  action  as  a  mild  stimulant  that 
tea  is  habitually  consumed. 

Chinese  Tea. — The  various  names  by  which  Chinese  teas  are  sold  in 
the  British  market  are  corruptions  of  Chinese  words.  There  are  about 
a  dozen  different  kinds  ;  but  the  principal  are  Bohea,  Congou  and 
Souchong,  and  signify  respectively  inferior,  middling,  and  superior. 
Teas  are  often  perfumed  and  flavoured  with  the  leaves  of  different 
kinds  of  plants  grown  on  purpose.  Different  tea-farms  in  China  pro- 
duce teas  of  various  qualities,  raised  by  skilful  cultivation  on  various 
soils. 

Chinese  tea  has  frequently  been  adulterated  in  this  country  by  the 
admixture  of  the  dried  leaves  of  certain  plants.  The  leaves  of  the 
sloe,  white  thorn,  ash,  elder,  and  some  others  have  been  employed 
for  this  purpose,  such  as  the  leaves  of  the  speedwell,  wild  germander, 
black  currant,  syringa,  purple-spiked  willow-herb,  sweetbriar,  and 
cherry  tree.  Some  of  these  are  harmless  ;  others  are  to  a  certain 
degree  poisonous,  as,  for  example,  the  leaves  of  all  the^varieties  of  the 
plum  and  cherry  tribe,  to  which  the  sloe  belongs. 

Coffee. — It  appears  that  coffee  was  first  introduced  into  England  in 
1652  by  Daniel  Edwards,  a  merchant,  whose  servant,  Pasqua,  a  Greek, 
understood  the  art  of  roasting  and  preparing  it.  This  servant,  under 
the  patronage  of  Edwards,  established  the  first  coffee-house  in  London, 
in  George  Yard,  Lombard  Street.  Coffee  was  then  sold  at  4  or  5 
guineas  a  pound,  and  a  duty  was  soon  afterwards  laid  upon  it  of  4d.  a 
gallon  when  made  into  a  beverage.  In  the  course  of  two  centuries, 
however,  this  berry,  unknown  originally  as  an  article  of  food,  except 
to  some  savage  tribes  on  the  confines  of  Abyssinia,  has  made  its  way 
through  the  whole  of  the  civilized  world.  Mohammedans  of  all  ranks 
drink  coffee  twice  a  day  ;  it  is  in  universal  request  in  France,  Germany, 
"and  the  Continent  generally,  but  the  demand  for  it  throughout  the 
British  Isles  is  daily  decreasing  ;  the  consumption  of  coffee  within  the 
last  forty  years  steadily  declined  to  less  than  one-half.  The  approxi- 
mate annual  consumption  of  coffee  per  head  of  the  population  is  about 
13  ozs.,  as  against  6  Ibs.  of  tea  per  head. 

Various  Kinds  of  Coffee. — The  Arabian  is  considered  the  best.  It  is 
grown  chiefly  in  the  districts  of  Aden  and  Mocha  ;  whence  the  name 
of  our  Mocha  coffee.  Mocha  coffee  has  a  smaller  and  rounder  bean 
than  any  other,  and  a  more  agreeable  smell  and  taste.  Very  little, 
however,  of  the  genuine  Mocha  coffee  reaches  this  country.  The  next 
in  reputation  in  quality  is  the  Java  and  Ceylon  coffee,  and  then  the 
coffees  of  Bourbon  and  Martinique,  and  that  of  Berbice,  a  district  of 
the  colony  of  British  Guiana.  The  Jamaica  and  St.  Domingo  coffees 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS    ON    BEVERAGES     1469 

are  less  esteemed.  The  largest  proportion  of  coffee  consumed  in 
England  comes  from  Brazil,  and  is  frequently  sold  under  another 
name. 

The  Roasting  of  Coffee  in  the  best  manner  requires  great  nicety,  and 
much  of  the  qualities  of  the  beverage  depends  upon  the  operation. 
The  roasting  of  coffee  for  the  dealers  in  London  and  Paris  has  now 
become  a  separate  branch  of  business,  and  some  of  the  roasters  perform 
the  operation  on  a  great  scale,  with  considerable  skill.  Roasted  coffee 
loses  from  20  to  30  per  cent,  by  sufficient  roasting,  and  the  powder 
suffers  much  by  exposure  to  the  air  ;  but  while  raw,  it  not  only  does 
not  lose  its  flavour  for  a  year  or  two,  but  improves  by  keeping.  If  a 
cup  of  the  best  coffee  be  placed  upon  the  table  boiling  hot,  it  will  till 
the  room  with  its  fragrance  ;  but  the  coffee,  when  warmed  again  after 
being  cold,  will  be  found  to  have  lost  most  of  its  flavour. 

A  considerable  change  takes  place  in  the  arrangement  of  the  con- 
stituents of  coffee  by  the  application  of  heat  in  roasting  it.  Inde- 
pendently of  one  of  the  objects  of  roasting,  namely,  that  of  destroying 
its  toughness  and  rendering  it  easily  ground,  its  tannin  and  other 
principles  are  rendered  partly  soluble  in  water  ;  and  it  is  to  the  tannin 
that  the  brown  colour  of  the  decoction  of  coffee  is  owing.  An  aromatic 
flavour  is  likewise  developed  during  the  process  of  roasting,  which  is 
not  perceived  in  the  raw  berry,  and  which  is  not  produced  in  the 
greatest  perfection  until  the  heat  has  arrived  at  a  certain  dejji 
temperature  ;  but  if  the  heat  be  increased  beyond  this,  the  flavour  is 
again  dissipated,  and  little  remains  but  a  bitter  and  astringent  in 
with  carbon. 

To  have  Coffee  in  Perfection  it  should  be  roasted  and  ground  just  before 
it  is  used,  and  more  should  not  be  ground  at  a  time  than  is  wanted 
for  immediate  use,  or  if  it  be  necessary  to  grind  more,  it  should  be  kept 
closed  from  the  air.  Coffee  readily  imbibes  exhalations  from  other 
substances,  and  thus  often  acquires  a  bad  flavour  ;  brown  sugar 
placed  near  it  will  communicate  a  disagreeable  aroma.  It  is  stated 
that  the  coffee  in  the  West  Indies  has  often  been  injured  by  being 
laid  in  rooms  near  the  sugar  works,  or  where  rum  is  distilled  ;  and  the 
same  effect  has  been  produced  by  bringing  over  coffee  in  the  same 
ships  as  rum  and  sugar.  Dr.  Moseley  mentions  that  a  few  bags  of 
pepper  on  board  a  ship  from  India  spoiled  a  whole  cargo  of  coffee. 

With  respect  to  the  quantity  of  coffee  used  in  making  the  decoction, 
much  depends  on  the  taste  of  the  consumer.  The  greatest  and  most 
common  fault  in  English  coffee  is  the  too  small  quantity  of  the  in- 
gredient. Count  Rumford  says  that  to  make  good  coffee  for  drinking 
after  dinner,  a  pound  of  good  Mocha  coffee,  which,  when  roasted  and 
ground,  weighs  only  13  oz.,  serves  to  make  56  full  cups,  or  a  lit  tl 
than  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  to  a  coffee-cup  of  moderate  size. 

The  use  of  chicory  with  coffee  was  originally  a  Dutch  practice.  The 
admixture  was  long  kept  a  secret  by  the  Dutch  dealers,  and  only 


1470  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

became  known  in  other  countries  in  the  beginning  of  last  century. 
For  France  alone  the  consumption  now  reaches  6,000,000  kilo- 
grams. 

Cocoa. — The  consumption  of  cocoa  is  yearly  increasing  in  this  country. 
It  is  prepared  from  the  seeds  of  the  Theobroma  Cacao,  a  tree  grown 
in  South  America,  Asia,  and  Africa.  Chocolate  was  introduced  into 
Europe  by  the  Spaniards,  whose  national  beverage  it  still  is,  and  it 
reached  England  during  the  latter  half  of  the  seventeenth  century. 
'Columbus  brought  it  to  Europe  in  1520.  Cocoa  possesses  to  some 
v  xtent  the  stimulating  properties  of  tea  and  coffee,  but  it  differs  from 
Ihem  in  that  it  contains  also  a  considerable  amount  of  fat  and  albu- 
minous matter.  It  is,  as  its  name  implies,  food  as  well  as  drink. 
Moreover,  we  drink  not  merely  an  infusion  of  cocoa,  but  the  cocoa 
itself.  The  first  step  is  to  roast  the  nut  and  remove  the  husk. 

The  kernel,  roughly  ground,  and  usually  with  some  of  the  fat  re- 
moved, is  sold  as  cocoa-nibs.  Prepared  cocoa  is  made  by  grinding  the 
kernel  to  powder,  removing  some  of  the  fat,  and  adding  a  certain 
proportion  of  starchy  matter  and  sugar.  To  some  of  the  cheaper 
cocoas  the  ground  husk  is  added  by  way  of  adulteration.  All  these 
preparations  are  sweet,  and  thicken  when  mixed  with  boiling  water 
and  milk.  The  pure  cocoa  extracts  and  essences  consist  only  of  ground 
cocoa  nibs  with  some  of  the  fat  removed  ;  they  have  a  distinctly 
bitter  flavour,  and  they  do  not  thicken  with  boiling.  Some  few  harm- 
ful substances  are  occasionally  added  as  adulterants.  The  best  pre- 
pared cocoas  are  wholesome  and  nourishing,  and  contain  only  cocoa, 
starch,  and  sugar.  Chocolate  is  prepared  by  grinding  the  finer  sorts 
of  cocoa  beans  over  warm  rollers,  with  a  suitable  addition  of  sugar 
and  vanilla  or  other  flavouring.  Much  skill  is  employed  in  its  pre- 
paration, and  the  best  qualities  are  sold  at  a  high  price.  It  is  used 
as  a  beverage,  but  more  often  in  this  country  as  a  luxury  or  a  food. 
It  is  very  nourishing  and  sustaining,  and  is  often  carried  by  pedestrians 
and  mountaineers. 

Mate. — The  tea  of  Paraguay,  prepared  from  the  Brazilian  holly 
(Ilex  Paraguayensis),  is  sold  in  this  country,  and  has  some  few  drinkers. 
The  leaf  is  dried  and  pulverized,  and  the  infusion  is  prepared  in  a 
dried  gourd  or  calabash,  out  of  which  it  is  sucked  through  a  straw  or 
bombilla. 

Coca. — The  dried  leaf  of  the  Erythroxylon  Coca  is  consumed  in 
Bolivia,  Peru,  and  the  adjoining  countries,  where  the  inhabitants 
chew  it  as  well  as  drink  the  infusion.  In  this  country  the  leaves  are 
chewed  by  pedestrians  and  cyclists  as  preventives  of  fatigue,  or  as 
restoratives  after  exertion.  Used  in  the  same  way  as  Chinese  tea,  it 
has  a  pleasant  flavour,  and  it  does  not  appear  to  have  the  same  ill 
effects  upon  digestion,  though  there  is  no  evidence  to  show  what  the 
effect  of  its  prolonged  use  would  be.  Coca  is  used  in  surgery  to  deaden 
pain  and  as  a  medicine  to  soothe  the  nerves  and  induce  sleep. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS  ON  BEVERAGES  1471 


These  substitutes  are  in  no  wise  imitations  of  tea  and  coffee,  but  are 
consumed  for  their  own  merits.  Other  substitutes  are  of  the  nature 
of  adulteration,  and  contain  no  theine  nor  analogous  alkaloids.  Much 
of  the  prepared  coffee  drunk  in  England  is  merely  an  infusion  of  burnt 
rye,  beans  and  chicory,  with  coffee  to  flavour,  and  its  power  as  a  stimu- 
lant is  that  possessed  by  any  hot  liquid  with  accompanying  nourish- 
ment in  the  shape  of  milk  or  sugar,  a  power  that  is  very  often  forgotten 
or  overlooked. 

Wines. — The  wines  of  France  are  more  highly  esteemed  than  those 
of  any  other  country,  and  of  these,  champagne  takes  the  lead. 
Sparkling  wine  was  first  made  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Epernay,  and 
the  methods  employed  then  were  practically  the  same  as  those  of  to- 
'day.  Both  red  and  white  grapes  are  grown  in  the  Marne.  The  red 
gives  a  dryer  wine,  the  white  a  softer  one  ;  and  the  two  are  generally 
mixed  together,  so  as  to  make  a  satisfactory  average.  Great  care  has 
to  be  exercised  in  the  gathering  of  the  red  grapes,  and  much  swiftness 
used  in  pressing  them,  so  that  none  of  the  colouring  matter  contained 
in  the  skin  be  communicated  to  the  juice.  In  hot  years  the  grapes 
are  so  ripe  that  they  easily  burst  when  they  are  gathered,  and  during 
the  pressing  some  of  the  pigments  of  colour  from  the  skin  communicate 
that  light  pink  hue  which  distinguishes  vintages  of  that  year  ;  but 
on  the  other  hand,  hot  seasons  usually  give  an  exceptionally  good 
wine.  Immediately  after  pressing,  the  juice  is  stored  in  casks  and 
directly  undergoes  the  first  stage  of  fermentation,  after  which  it  is 
racked  so  as  to  be  freed  from  the  heavier  lees.  The  area  that  can 
be  planted  as  vineyards  in  the  champagne  district  is  rather  limited, 
and  as  the  demand  has  gone  on  increasing  at  a  very  rapid  rate,  prices 
have  tbeen  forced  up,  and  other  districts  of  France  have  tried  their 
hand  at  making  sparkling  wine.  Thus  we  have  now  sparkling  Bur- 
gundy, sparkling  Chablis,  sparkling  Saumur,  all  excellent  wines  for  the 
prices  they  command.  The  name  of  claret  is  practically  given  to  all 
red  wine  coming  from  France,  with  the  exception  of  Burgundy  and 
Roussillon,  which  form  small  classes  apart.  The  best  clarets  are  those 
grown  in  the  Gironde,  but  there  are  many  other  departments  which 
furnish  claret  to  Bordeaux,  to  Paris,  and  to  foreign  parts. 

The  wines  of  Germany  are  generally  dearer  than  those  of  France, 
owing  chiefly  to  the  large  proportion  of  bad  seasons  in  the  Rheingan. 
The  best  are  the  superior  Hocks  and  Moselles,  still  and  sparkling, 
known  to  consumers  as  Johannisberger,  Steinberger,  Marcobrunner, 
Hockheimer,  Niersteiner,  etc. 

Storage  of  Wine.— Wine  of  every  description  should  be  stored  in  a 
cool,  dry  cellar.  This  is  particularly  necessary  in  the  case  of  sparkling 
wines  that  have  to  be  stored  for  a  great  length  of  time,  for  a  damp 
atmosphere  is  apt  to  destroy  the  wire  and  strings  which  secure  the 
corks. 

Service  of  Wine. — Formerly  it  was  considered  necessary  that  a  different 


1472  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

kind  of  wine  should  accompany  each  course,  and  they  were  served  in 
the  following  order  : — 

Chablis  or  Sauterne  with  hors  d'oeuvres ;  Sherry  or  Marsala  with 
soup ;  Hock  or  Sauterne  with  fish  ;  Claret  or  Burgundy  with  entrees  ; 
Champagne  with  roast  and  entremets ;  Port,  Claret  or  Madeira  with 
the  dessert.  Now  the  number  of  wines  introduced  at  one  meal  is  con- 
siderably reduced.  Sometimes  a  glass  of  good  sherry  or  mineral  waters 
with  whisky  is  served  with  the  soup,  after  which  champagne  is  served 
until  the  dessert,  when  port  and  old  claret  take  its  place.  Frequently 
one,  or,  at  the  most,  two  kinds  of  wine  are  served  throughout  the  meal, 
and  these  are  either  claret  or  Burgundy  and  champagne,  or  champagne 
alone.  The  following  table  gives  the  correct  temperatures  at  which 
various  wines  should  be  served  : — 

Champagne      r  I^.:L    :  ^:-      .          .          .      35°  deg.  Fah. 
Sherry        ,P'>  ':'^'-   7/  «-:'-       .          .       :   .     40      ,,         „ 
Marsala    -^       .      •'-  ;   "       .          .          .     40      „         „ 
Chablis  and  other  wines  of  this  class        .     45      „         „ 
Sauterne  and  other  wines  of  this  class     .      50      „         „ 
Port.          .          .      ;  v-        .          .          .      55      „ 
Madeira  and  claret       -;r "       .          .          .     65      ,,         ,, 
Burgundy  .          .          .          .          .  70      „         ,, 

Ice  should  never  be  put  into  wine,  but  this  does  not  of  course 
apply  to  claret  cup  and  similar  mixtures  which  are  dealt  with  here- 
after. Champagne  and  similar  wines  should,  of  course,  be  served  cold, 
but  the  temperature  must  be  lowered  in  bottle.  This  may  be  done  most 
expeditiously  by  surrounding  the  bottles  with  crushed  ice,  and  allowing 
the  whole  to  remain  covered  with  a  wet  flannel  for  about  an  hour  before 
being  served.  An  agreeable  fresh  flavour  may  be  given  to  all  Rhine 
wine  by  cooling  them  slightly.  Claret  and  Burgundy,  on  the  contrary, 
should  be  drunk  milk-warm ;  while  port,  if  exposed  to  a  low  tempera- 
ture, will  acquire  a  harsh,  thin,  acid  taste,  which  temporarily  deprives 
it  of  all  its  characteristic  qualities.  The  easiest  method  of  raising 
the  temperature  of  these  wines  is  to  place  them  near  the  fire  or  in  a 
warm  room  for  several  hours  ;  or  it  may  be  more  speedily  accomplished 
by  surrounding  the  bottles  with  hot  water. 

Old  wines  that  have  been  bottled  for  any  length  of  time  should  be  care- 
fully decanted,  for  they  nearly  always  have  a  crust  or  sediment  which, 
if  disturbed,  may  spoil  the  flavour  of  the  wine.  Decanting  baskets 
are  useful  means  of  preventing  this.  Each  bottle  is  transferred  from  the 
bin  to  a  separate  basket,  lying  therein  in  nearly  the  same  position  as 
that  in  which  it  was  found  in  the  bin,  but  with  the  neck  a  little  higher. 
Wineglasses. — It  is  usual  to  have  various  shapes  of  wineglasses  for 
different  wines.  There  is  however  one  form  which  suits  all  wines,  which 
is  of  the  goblet  or  half  globe  shape.  It  is  essential  that  the  glass 
should  be  as  thin  as  possible.  Glasses  running  four  or  five  to  the 
reputed  quart  bottle  are  the  best  for  size. 


RECIPES  FOR  BEVERAGES 


CHAPTER    XLIX 

Tea,  Coffee,  Cocoa,  Home-made  Wines,  Liqueurs, 
Cups,  Summer  and  Winter  Drinks,  and 
American  Drinks. 

Tea,  Coffee,  etc. 

3467.— ALMOND  MILK. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  Jordan  almonds,  £  an  oz.  of  bitter  almonds, 
2  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  orange- flower  water,  i  pint 
of  cold  water. 

Method. — Blanch  the  almonds,  and  pound  them  with  the  sugar  and 
orange- flower  water,  adding  a  few  drops  of  cold  water  occasionally, 
to  prevent  it  getting  oily.  When  quite  smooth,  turn  the  prepara- 
tion into  a  basin,  stir  in  the  remainder  of  the  water,  allow  it  to  remain 
covered  for  2  hours,  then  strain,  keep  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until 
required,  and  serve  diluted  with  an  equal  quantity  of  cold  \\ 

3468.— CHOCOLATE,  TO  MAKE. 

Ingredients.     Plain  chocolate.     To  £  an  oz.  allow  £  a  pint  of  \ 
and  \  a  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Make  the  milk  and  water  hot,  break  the  chocolate  into 
small  pieces,  add  it  and  stir  until  quite  dissolved.  Brini*  to  tailing 
point,  then  strain,  and  serve  with  sugar. 

CHOCOLATE  AND  COCOA.— Both  these  preparations  are  made  from  the  seeds,  or  beans,  of  the  cocoa- 
tree  ;  it  grows  in  the  \\ Vst  Indies  and  South  America.     The  Spanish  and  the  proper  name  is  cacao,  not 
cocoa,  as  it  is  generally  spelt.     From  tins  mistake,  the  tree  from  which  the  beverage  is  procured  has 
often  been  confounded  with  the  palm  that  produces  the  edible  cocoa-nuts,  whirh  are  the  produce 
of  the  cocoa-tree  (Cocos  nuci/era),  whereas  the  tree  from  which  chocolate  is  procured  is  very  < : 
the  Theobroma  cacao.       The  cocoa-tree  was  cultivated  bv  thr  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  South  A 
,  according  to  Humboldt,  the  cultivation  was  encouraged  by  Mot 
:ited  thence  into  other  dependencies  of  the  Spanish  monarchy  in  1520;  and 

so  highly  esteemed  by  Linnaeus  as  to  receive  from  him   the  name  now  conferred  upon  it,  of 
derived  from  the  Greek,  and  signifying  "  food  for  gods."     Chocolate  has  always 
been  a  favourite  beverage  among  the  Spaniards  and  Creoles,  and  was  considered  as  a  great  luxurv 
here  when  introduced,  after  the  discovery  of  America   but  the  high  duties  laid  upon 
almost  entirely  to  th.  ,  subjected  to  duty,  Mr.  Bryan  Edwards  stated 

that  cocoa  plantations  were  numerous  in  Jamaica,  but  that  the  duty  caused  their  almost  entire  rum. 
The  removal  of  this  duty  has  increased  the  cultiva:> 

1473  o    it 


1474  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3469.— COCOA,  TO  PREPARE. 

Ingredients. — To  i-J  teaspoonfuls  of  prepared  cocoa,  allow  £  of  a  pint 
of  milk,  £  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Mix  the  cocoa  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water,  boil  the 
remainder  of  the  water  and  the  milk,  and  pour  these  on  to  the  blended 
cocoa,  stirring  well  meanwhile.  Rock  cocoa  should  be  broken  into 
small  pieces,  and  simmered  gently  for  a  few  minutes  in  the  milk  and 
water. 

3470.— COCOA  HUSKS 

Ingredients. — i  cupful  of  husks,  3  cupfuls  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Simmer  the  husks  very  gently  in  the  water  for  about 
3  hours,  then  strain.  When  cold,  skim  off  any  fat  there  may  be  and 
re-heat  when  required. 

3471.— COCOA  HUSKS      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  cupful  of  cocoa  husks,  4  cupfuls  of  water. 

Method. — Soak  the  husks  in  the  water  for  1 2  hours,  keeping  the  vessel 
closely  covered ;  at  the  end  of  this  time  turn  both  husks  and  water  into 
a  stewpan,  and  cook  gently  for  about  4  hours.  When  cold  remove  any 
fat  there  may  be  on  the  surface,  and  re-heat  before  serving. 

3472.— COFFEE,    TO    ROAST.       (A    French    Recipe.) 

It  is  an  acknowledged  fact  that  French  coffee  is  decidedly  superior 
to  that  made  in  England,  and  as  the  roasting  of  the  berry  is  of  great 
importance  to  the  flavour  of  the  preparation,  it  will  be  useful  and  in- 
teresting to  know  how  they  manage  these  things  in  France.  In  Paris 
there  are  two  houses  justly  celebrated  for  the  flavour  of  their  coffee — 
La  Maison  Corcellet  and  La  Maison  Rover  de  Chartres  ;  and  this 
flavour  is  obtained  by  adding,  before  roasting,  to  every  3  Ib.  of  coffee  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  nut,  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  powdered  sugar. 
It  is  then  roasted  in  the  usual  manner,  and  a  tin  in  a  slack  oven,  or  a 
frying  pan  over  the  fire  will  serve,  with  care.  A  rotating  coffee  roaster 
is  of  course  much  better.  The  addition  of  the  butter  and  sugar  de- 
velops the  flavour  and  aroma  of  the  berry;  the  butter  employed  must, 
of  course,  be  of  the  very  best  quality,  and  must  be  used  only  in  very 
small  quantities. 

THE  COFFEE  PLANT.— This  plant  (Coffca  arabica)  grows  to  the  height  of  about  12  or  15  feet,  with 
leaves  not  unlike  those  of  the  common  laurel,  although  more  pointed  and  not  so  dry  and  thick.  The 
blossoms  are  white,  much  like  those  of  the  jasmine,  and  issue  from  the  angles  of  the  leaf-stalks.  When 
the  flowers  fade,  they  are  succeeded  by  the  coffee-bean,  or  seed,  which  is  enclosed  in  a  berry  of  a  red 
colour,  when  ripe,  resembling  a  cherry.  The  coffee-beans  are  prepared  by  exposing  them  to  the  sun 
for  a  few  days,  that  the  pulp  may  ferment  and  throw  off  a  strong  acidulous  moisture.  They  are 
then  gradually  dried  for  about  3  weeks,  and  put  into  a  mill  to  separate  the  husk  from  the  seed. 


RECIPES    FOR    BEVERAGES  1475 

3473-— COFFEE,  TO  MAKE. 

Method. — A  cup  of  really  good  coffee  is  the  exception  rather  than  the 
rule,  and  yet  the  process  of  making  it  is  so  simple  that  it  is  not  easy 
to  understand  why,  granted  the  coffee  is  of  good  quality  and  unsparingly 
used,  the  beverage  is  so  inferior  to  that  prepared  abroad.  Hard  water 
makes  better  coffee  than  soft  water,  because  the  latter  extracts  certain 
strong  and  bitter  principles  which  overpower  the  delicate  aroma  and 
flavour  of  the  coffee.  Coffee  quickly  loses  its  flavour  when  ground, 
therefore  it  is  better  to  buy  the  berries  and  grind  them  as  required. 
When  this  is  not  practicable,  it  is  advisable  to  buy  pure  coffee  and 
chicory  separately,  and  mix  them  in  proportions  palatable  to  those  for 
whom  the  beverage  is  intended.  When  expense  is  not  a  point  to  be 
considered,  coifee  alone  should  be  used,  and  from  2  to  2^  teaspoonfuls 
allowed  for  each  breakfastcupful  of  water.  Recent  years  have  introduced 
numerous  patent  coffee  apparatus,  but  nothing  further  is  needed  than 
a  fireproof  jug  and  a  piece  of  muslin  or  flannel.  The  water  added  to 
the  coffee,  or  to  which  the  coffee  is  added,  should  be  quite  boiling;  and 
much  of  the  strength  is  wasted  if  the  coffee  is  not  brought  just  to  boiling 
point,  although  strength  will  be  gained  at  the  sacrifice  of  flavour  and 
aroma  if  the  coffee  be  allowed  to  boil  even  for  a  short  time. 


3474.— COFFEE,  TO  MAKE. 

Ingredients. — Allow  i  good  tablespoonful  of  freshly  ground  coffee 
to  each  \  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Place  the  coffee  in  the  coffee  chamber  of  a  cafetiere,  and 
pour  the  boiling  water  through  the  distributor  on  to  the  coffee.  When 
the  boiling  water  has  percolated  through  the  fine  strainer  with  which 
the  coffee  pot  is  provided,  and  has  been  allowed  to  stand  for  a  few 
minutes,  it  will  be  found  to  be  quite  clear  and  ready  to  serve.  Coffee 
may  be  allowed  to  just  come  to  the  boil,  but  boiling  it,  even  for  a  short 
time,  quite  destroys  its  flavour  and  aroma. 

3475-— COFFEE,  TO  MAKE.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Allow  2  good  teaspoonfuls  of  freshly  ground  coffee  to 
each  \  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Make  hot  an  ordinary  china  jug,  put  in  the  coffee,  pour  on 
to  it  the  boiling  water,  and  stir  vigorously.  Allow  the  jug  to  stand 
for  5  minutes,  closely  rmvred,  where  the  contents  will  remain  just 
below  boiling  point,  then  pour  out  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  at  once  pour 
it  back  into  the  jug.  Repeat  this  carefully  2  or  3  times,  cover,  let  the 
coffee  stand  five  minutes  longer  t«  •  hen  pour,  without  disturbing 

the  grounds,  into  a  hot  coffee  pot  or  jug,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 


1476  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3476.— COFFEE,  TO  MAKE.        (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — Allow  i  oz.  of  freshly  ground  coffee  to  each  i£  pints  of 
water. 

Method. — Tie  the  coffee  loosely  in  a  piece  of  strong  muslin.  Boil  up 
the  water  in  a  saucepan,  put  in  the  coffee,  and  bring  to  boiling  point. 
Now  draw  the  pan  aside,  cover  closely,  and  allow  the  coffee  to  remain 
undisturbed  for  10  minutes.  This  method  is  suitable  for  making  large 
quantities  of  the  beverage. 

3477.— COFFEE,  BLACK.      (Fr.— Cafe  Noir.) 

Ingredients. — To  each  |  pint  of  water  allow  i  heaped  tablespoonful  of 
coffee. 

Method. — Black  coffee  is  prepared  in  the  ordinary  way,  and  can  be 
made  successfully  by  any  of  the  preceding  methods.  It  should  be 
made  very  strong,  and  strained  free  from  grounds.  Black  coffee  is 
generally  taken  alone  without  the  addition  of  sugar. 

3478.— COFFEE,  BURNT. 

Ingredients. — Strong  coffee,  brandy. 

Method. — Allow  3  teaspoonfuls  of  good  coffee  to  each  £  pint  of  water, 
and  prepare  according  to  any  of  the  preceding  methods.  Sweeten  it 
rather  more  than  ordinarily,  and  strain  it  into  small  cups.  Pour  a 
little  brandy  into  each  over  a  spoon,  set  fire  to  it,  and  when  the  spirit 
is  partly  consumed,  the  flame  should  be  blown  out,  and  the  coffee  drunk 
immediately. 

3479.— COFFEE  WITH  MILK.      (Fr.— Cafe  au  Lait.) 

This  beverage  is  merely  strong  black  coffee  to  which  hot  milk  is 
added,  generally  in  the  proportion  of  2  or  3  parts  milk  to  i  part  coffee. 
It  is  usual  to  pour  the  two  liquids  into  the  cup  at  the  same  time. 

3480.— MATE,  OR  PARAGUAY  TEA. 

The  leaf  of  the  Brazilian  holly  or  mate  is  extensively  employed  in  the 
South  American  States  as  a  substitute  for  Chinese  or  Indian  tea. 

3481.— TEA,  TO  MAKE. 

In  order  to  make  good  tea  it  is  necessary  that  the  water  should  be 
quite  boiling,  but  it  must  on  no  account  be  water  that  has  boiled  for 
some  time,  or  been  previously  boiled,  cooled,  and  then  re-boiled.  It 
is  a  good  plan  to  empty  the  kettle  and  refill  it  with  fresh  cold  water, 
and  make  the  tea  the  moment  it  reaches  boiling  point.  Soft  water 
makes  the  best  tea,  and  boiling  softens  the  water,  but  after  it  has  boiled 
for  some  time  it  again  becomes  hard.  When  water  is  very  hard  a 


RECIPES    FOR    HOME-MADE    \VIXES,    ETC,       1477 

tiny  pinch  of  carbonate  of  soda  may  be  put  into  the  teapot  with  the 
tea,  but  it  must  be  used  very  sparingly,  otherwise  it  may  impart  a 
very  unpleasant  taste  to  the  beverage.  Tea  is  better  made  in  an  earthen 
than  a  metal  pot.  One  good  teaspoonful  of  tea  will  be  found  sufiicient 
for  two  small  cups,  if  made  with  boiling  water  and  allowed  to  stand 
3  or  4  minutes;  longer  than  this  it  should  never  be  allowed  to  stand. 
The  delicate  flavour  of  the  tea  may  be  preserved,  and  injurious  effects 
avoided  by  pouring  the  tea,  after  it  has  stood  3  or  4  minutes,  into  a 
clean  teapot  which  has  been  previously  heated. 


Home-made  Wines,  etc. 

3482.— ALE  AND  GINGER.  (See  Mulled  Ale,  No.  3598.) 
3483.— ALLAHABAD  TANKARD. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  bottle  of  pale  ale,  i  pint  of  white  wine,  £  of  a  pint 
of  syrup,  No.  2599,  i  or  2  sprigs  of  mint,  i  small  slice  of  toast,  £  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg. 

Method. — Mix  the  ale,  wine  and  syrup  together.  Cut  the  toast  to 
fit  a  glass  jug,  or  silver  tankard,  sprinkle  on  the  nutmeg,  and  pour  over 
the  mixed  ale,  wine  and  syrup.  Serve  with  mint  leaves  floating  on  the 
surface. 

3484.— APPLE  CUP. 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  large  apples,  i  pint  of  cider,  sugar  to  taste,  crushed 
ice. 

Method. — Slice  the  apples,  without  paring,  barely  cover  them  with 
boiling  water,  and  let  the  water  stand  covered  until  cold.  Strain,  add 
the  cider,  sweeten  to  taste,  pour  over  the  crushed  ice,  and  serve. 

3485.— APPLE  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 5  gallons  of  good  cider,  10  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  cider  into  a  cask  it  will  about  £  fill,  add  the  sugar, 
and  stir  occasionally  with  a  piece  of  wood  or  cane  until  the  sugar  is 
quite  dissolved;  at  the  end  of  48  hours  put  in  the  bung,  and  place  a 
small  vent  peg  near  the  top  of  the  cask.  Allow  the  cask  to  remain  for 
12  months  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  when  the  wine  will  be  ready  for  use. 

3486.— APRICOT  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 12  Ibs.  of  sound  but  not  over  ripe  apricots,  i  Ib.  of  loaf 
sugar,  i  pint  of  white  wine,  3  gallons  of  water,  i  tablespoonful  of 
compressed  yeast,  or  i  tablespoonful  of  good  brewer's  yeast. 


1478  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Remove  the  stones  of  the  fruit,  take  out  the  kernels,  and 
cut  each  apricot  into  6  or  8  pieces.  Put  them  into  a  preserving  pan 
with  the  water,  sugar,  and  about  half  the  kernels,  and  simmer  very 
gently  for  i  hour.  Turn  the  whole  into  an  earthenware  vessel,  let  it 
remain  undisturbed  until  cool,  then  stir  in  the  yeast;  if  compressed 
yeast  is  used  it  must  previously  be  mixed  smoothly  with  a  little  warm 
water.  Cover  the  vessel  with  a  cloth,  let  it  remain  undisturbed  for 
3  days,  then  strain  the  liquid  into  a  clean,  dry  cask,  add  the  white  wine, 
and  bung  lightly.  At  the  end  of  6  months  draw  off  the  wine  into  bottles, 
cork  them  closely,  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  about  12  months,  and 
the  wine  will  be  then  ready  for  use. 

3487.— APRICOT   WINE.     (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — 12  Ibs.  of  firm,  ripe  apricots,  loaf  sugar,  2  gallons  of 
water. 

Method. — Prepare  the  fruit  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  put 
it  into  a  preserving  pan  with  2  gallons  of  cold  water  and  half  the  kernels 
and  boil  gently  for  about  i  hour.  Strain,  return  to  the  pan;  to  each 
quart  of  liquid  add  6  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  remove 
the  scum  as  it  rises.  Let  the  whole  simmer  gently  for  10  minutes, 
then  turn  into  an  earthenware  vessel.  Allow  it  to  remain  covered 
until  the  following  day,  pour  into  dry  bottles,  to  each  one  add  a  lump 
of  sugar,  and  cork  closely.  Store  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  about  6 
months,  when  the  wine  should  be  ready  for  use. 

3488.— BIRCH  BEER. 

Ingredients. — %  a  Ib.  of  black  birch  bark,  i  oz.  of  hops,  %  of  a  Ib.  of 
pimento,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ginger,  6  pints  of  golden  syrup,  4-  a  pint  of  yeast, 
or  2  ozs.  of  German  yeast. 

Method. — Boil  the  bark  in  3  or  4  pints  of  water,  and,  when  con- 
siderably reduced,  strain  and  boil  rapidly  until  the  liquor  is  as  thick 
as  treacle.  Meanwhile  boil  the  hops,  pimento  and  ginger  in  6  quarts 
of  water  for  20  minutes,  then  strain  it  on  to  the  bark  extract.  Stir 
until  it  boils,  add  the  golden  syrup,  and,  when  quite  dissolved,  strain 
the  whole  into  a  cask.  Add  10  gallons  of  water  previously  boiled  and 
allowed  to  cool,  and  as  soon  as  it  becomes  lukewarm  stir  in  the  liquid 
yeast.  Let  it  remain  loosely  bunged  for  2  or  3  days,  or  until  fermenta- 
tion has  ceased,  then  strain  into  small  bottles,  cork  them  tightly, 
and  store  in  a  cool  place. 

3489.—  BLACKBERRY  SYRUP. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  fruit  allow  i  Ib.  of  loaf  or  preserving 
sugar,  and  i  tablespoonful  of  cold  water,  brandy. 


RECIPES    FOR    HOME-MADE    WINES,    ETC.       1479 

Method. — Place  the  fruit,  sugar  and  water  in  a  large  jar  with  a  close- 
fitting  cover,  stand  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook 
gently  for  2  hours.  Strain  the  juice,  measure  it,  put  it  into  a  preserving 
pan  or  stewpan  (preferably  an  enamelled  one\  and  boil  gently  for 
20  minutes,  skimming  carefully  meanwhile.  To  each  pint  of  syrup 
add  a  small  glass  of  brandy,  let  the  whole  become  quite  cold,  then  bottle 
for  use. 


3490.-CHERRY    BOUNCE. 

Ingredients. — 12  Ibs.  of  cherries  ;  to  each  gallon  of  juice  obtained  from 
them  allow  4  Ibs.  of  sugar,  V  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace,  ±  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  ground  allspice,  i  quart  of  brandy,  and  i  quart  of  rum. 

Method. — Remove  the  stones,  place  the  fniit  in  a  large  jar,  and  stand 
the  jar  in  a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water.  Cook  gently  until  all 
the  juice  is  extracted,  strain  it  and  measure  it  into  a  preserving  pan. 
Add  sugar,  mace  and  allspice  in  the  proportions  stated  above,  and 
simmer  the  ingredients  until  the  scum  ceases  to  rise.  When  cold,  add 
the  spirits,  and  bottle  for  use. 

3491.— CHERRY  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 12  Ibs.  of  cherries,  preferably  small  black  ones,  either 
loaf  or  good  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Place  the  cherries  on  a  large  dish  and  bruise  them  well 
with  a  large  wooden  spoon.  Allow  them  to  remain  until  the  following 
day,  then  drain  them  well  on  a  hair  sieve,  and  measure  the  juice  into 
an  earthenware  vessel.  To  each  quart  of  juice  add  £  a  Ib  of  sugar, 
cover  the  vessel,  let  it  stand  for  24  hours,  and  strain  the  liquor  into  a 
clean,  dry  cask.  Bung  closely,  but  provide  the  upper  part  of  the  cask 
with  a  vent  peg;  let  it  remain  undisturbed  for  about  6  months,  then 
drain  oft  into  bottles.  Cork  closely,  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  and  use 
as  required. 

3492.— CHERRY  WINE.       (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Ripe  chenies.  To  each  quart  of  juice  extracted  from 
them  add  a  pinch  each  of  ground  mace,  ground  cloves  and  ground  all- 
spice, ^  a  pint  of  brandy,  and  £  a  pint  of  rum. 

Method. — Stone  the  cherries,  put  them  into  a  large  jar,  place  it  in  a 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  until  the  juice  is  all  ex- 
tracted. Then  strain  it  into  a  preserving  pan,  add  sugar  and  flavouring 
ingredients  in  the  proportion  stated  above,  and  boil  and  skim  until  clear. 
Let  it  cool,  add  the  spirits,  pour  into  bottles,  cork  them  closely,  and 
use  as  required. 


1480  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3493.— CHERRY  BRANDY. 

Ingredients. — Sound,  not  over  ripe  Morella  cherries.  To  each  Ib. 
allow  3  ozs.  of  best  castor,  or  pounded  loaf  sugar,  good  French  brandy 
to  cover  them. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  stalks,  leaving  them  about  £  an  inch  in  length, 
wipe  the  cherries  with  a  soft  cloth,  and  put  them  into  perfectly  dry 
wide-necked  bottles.  Rather  more  than  half  fill  the  bottles,  and  place 
the  fruit  and  sugar  in  alternate  layers.  Fill  the  bottles  with  brandy, 
cork  them  closely,  and  cover  the  tops  with  melted  wax  or  bladder. 
Keep  for  at  least  2  months  before  using. 

3494.— CHERRY  BRANDY.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Sound  Morella  cherries.  To  each  Ib.  allow  3  ozs.  of 
brown  sugar  candy,  12  apricot,  peach,  or  plum  kernels,  £  of  an  oz  of 
shredded  bitter  almond,  %  of  an  inch  of  cinnamon,  and  good  French 
brandy  to  cover. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  stalks,  leaving  them  about  £  an  inch  in  length, 
wipe  the  cherries  with  a  soft  cloth,  and  prick  them  well  with  a  coarse 
darning  needle.  Half  fill  some  wide-necked  bottles  with  the  prepared 
fruit;  to  each  one  add  sugar  candy,  etc.,  in  the  above-stated  proportions, 
and  fill  the  bottles  with  brandy.  Cork  closely,  cover  the  top  with  melted 
wax  or  bladder,  and  keep  for  at  least  3  months  before  using. 

3495.— CIDER. 

Cider  is  the  fermented  juice  of  apples,  and  it  is  chiefly  manufactured 
in  Dorsetshire,  Devonshire,  Gloucestershire,  Herefordshire,  Norfolk  and 
Worcestershire.  'The  juice  is  extracted  by  first  crushing  the  apples 
in  a  cider- mill,  and  afterwards  subjecting  the  pulp  to  heavy  pressure. 
The  product  is  either  diluted  with  water,  and  sold  as  Sweet  Cider, 
or  it  is  allowed  to  ferment  in  barrels,  which  in  some  districts  are  closed 
at  the  top,  and  in  others  open,  and  simply  covered  with  a  cloth.  When 
active  fermentation  has  subsided  the  cider  is  drawn  off  into  casks, 
where  it  remains  for  several  months  before  it  is  ready  lor  bottling  or 
drinking.  Some  varieties  of  effervescing  cider  almost  approach  cham- 
pagne in  character. 

3496.— CIDER  PUNCH. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  cider  iced,  i  bottle  of  iced  seltzer  or  soda 
water,  i  wineglassful  of  brandy,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  or  to  taste,  i  lemon 
thinly  sliced. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  in  a  glass  jug,  and  serve 
in  small  glasses. 


RECIPES    FOR    HOME-MADE    WINES,    ETC.       1481 
3497.— CLARY  WINE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  gallon  of  water  allow  3  Ibs.  of  either  loaf  or  good 
preserving  sugar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  brewer's  yeast,  or  £  of  an  oz.  of 
compressed  yeast  moistened  with  water,  i  quart  of  clary  flowers  and 
tops,  and  £  a  pint  of  good  brandy. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  bring  to  the  boil,  simmer 
gently  for  10  minutes,  skimming  meanwhile,  and  when  cool  pour  it 
into  a  clean  dry  cask.  Add  a  little  of  the  warm  syrup  to  the  yeast, 
and  when  it  is  working  well  stir  it,  together  with  the  clary  flowers  and 
tops,  into  the  rest  of  the  syrup.  Stir  vigorously  twice  daily  for  5  days, 
and  bung  closely  as  soon  as  fermentation  ceases.  Let  it  remain  un- 
disturbed for  4  months,  then  drain  it  carefully  from  the  sediment ; 
add  the  brandy,  pour  into  bottles,  and  cork  securely.  After  being 
stored  for  about  6  months  in  a  cool,  dry  place  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Note. — This  biennial,  with  its  whorls  of  pale-blue  flowers,  was  formerly 
largely  used  in  the  domestic  still. 

3498.— COWSLIP  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 4  quarts  of  cowslip  flowers,  4  quarts  of  water,  3  Ibs.  of 
loaf  sugar,  the  finely-grated  rind  and  juice  of  i  orange  and  i  lemon, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  brewer's  yeast,  or  £•  of  an  oz.  of  compressed  yeast 
moistened  with  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  brandy,  if  liked. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  ^  an  hour,  skimming 
when  necessary,  and  pour,  quite  boiling,  over  the  rinds  and  strained 
juice  of  the  orange  and  lemon.  Let  it  cool,  then  stir  in  the  yeast  and 
cowslip  flowers,  cover  with  a  cloth,  and  allow  it  to  remain  undisturbed 
for  48  hours.  Turn  the  whole  into  a  clean  dry  cask,  add  the  brandy, 
bung  closely,  let  it  remain  thus  foi  8  weeks,  then  draw  it  off  into  bottles. 
Cork  securely,  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  3  or  4  weeks,  and  it  will  then 
be  ready  for  use. 

3499.— CURRANT  WINE,  BLACK. 

Ingredients. —  Ripe  black  currants.  To  each  pint  of  juice  obtained 
add  i  pint  of  cold  water,  i  Ib.  of  preserving  sugar,  and  a  good  glass 
of  French  brandy. 

Method. — Take  away  the  stalks,  put  the  currants  into  an  earthenware 
bowl,  bruise  well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  drain  off  the  juice  and 
put  it  aside.  Add  the  water  to  the  berries,  stir  them  frequently  for 
2  or  3  hours,  then  strain  the  liquid  and  mix  it  with  the  juice.  Add  the 
sugar,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  dissolved  turn  the  whole  into  a  cask.  \Yhen 
fermentation  has  ceased  rack  off  the  liquid  into  a  smaller  cask,  add  the 
brandy,  bung  closely,  and  let  it  remain  for  at  least  1 2  months  in  a  warm 
place.  At  the  end  of  this  time  drain  the  wine  off  carefully  into  dry 
bottles,  cork  them  tightly,  aw!  stem-  in  a  •' 


1482  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3500.— CURRANT  WINE,  RED. 

Ingredients. — Ripe  red  currants.  To  each  gallon  of  fruit  allow  i£ 
gallons  of  cold  water,  and  5  Ibs.  either  loaf  sugar  or  good  preserving 
sugar,  and  \  a  pint  of  good  brandy. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  from  the  currants,  put  them  into  an 
earthenware  bowl,  bruise  them  well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  drain 
off  the  juice.  Put  the  juice  aside,  add  the  water  to  the  berries,  let 
it  stand  for  2  or  3  hours,  stirring  occasionally  meanwhile.  At  the  end 
of  this  time  strain  the  liquid  from  the  berries  into  the  juice,  add  £  of 
the  sugar,  stir  occasionally  until  dissolved,  then  pour  the  whole  into  a 
cask,  filling  it  three  parts  full.  Bung  closely,  but  place  a  vent  peg  near 
the  top  of  the  cask,  and  let  the  cask  remain  for  i  month  where  a  uni- 
form temperature  of  about  65°  Fahr.  can  be  maintained.  Dissolve  the 
remainder  of  the  sugar  in  the  smallest  possible  quantity  of  warm  water, 
mix  it  well  with  the  contents  of  the  cask,  replace  the  bung,  and  allow 
the  cask  to  remain  undisturbed  for  6  weeks  longer.  Now  drain  off  the 
wine  into  a  clean,  dry  cask,  add  the  brandy,  let  the  cask  stand  for  about 
6  months  in  a  dry,  warm  place,  then  bottle  and  cork  tightly.  The 
wine  may  be  used  at  once,  but  will  be  better  if  kept  for  12  months  at 
least. 

3501.— CURRANT    AND    RASPBERRY    WINE. 

Ingredients. — 5  gallons  of  red-currant  juice,  i  pint  of  raspberry  juice, 
10  gallons  of  water,  10  Ibs.  of  either  loaf  sugar  or  good  preserving  sugar. 

Method. — Extract  the  juice  as  directed  in  the  two  preceding  recipes. 
Add  to  it  the  water  and  sugar,  stir  until  the  latter  is  dissolved,  then 
turn  the  whole  into  a  cask,  and  bung  closely,  but  provide  the  top  of 
the  cask  with  a  vent  peg.  As  soon  as  fermentation  ceases,  tighten  the 
vent  peg,  and  let  the  cask  remain  undisturbed  in  a  moderately  warm 
place  for  12  months.  At  the  end  of  this  time  rack  off  into  dry  bottles, 
cork  them  closely,  and  seal  the  top  with  melted  wax.  The  wine  should 
be  ready  for  use  in  about  3  months. 

3502.— DAMSON  WINE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  gallon  of  damsons  add  i  gallon  of  boiling  water. 
To  each  gallon  of  liquor  obtained  from  these  add  4  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
and  \  a  pint  of  French  brandy. 

Method.— Remove  the  stalks,  put  the  fruit  into  an  earthenware 
bowl,  pour  in  the  boiling  water,  and  cover  with  a  cloth.  Stir  the  liquid 
3  or  4  times  daily  for  4  days,  then  add  the  sugar  and  brandy,  and  when 
the  former  is  dissolved,  turn  the  whole  into  a  clean  dry  cask.  Cover 
the  bung-hole  with  q,  cloth,  folded  into  several  thicknesses,  until  fer- 
mentation ceases,  then  bung  tightly,  and  allow  the  cask  to  remain 
undisturbed  for  12  months  in  a  moderately  warm  place.  At  the  en4 


RECIPES    FOR   HOME-MADE    WINES,    ETC.       1483 

of  this  time  it  should  be  racked  off  into  bottles.  The  wine  may  be  used 
at  once,  but  if  well  corked  and  stored  in  a  dry  place  it  may  be  kept  for 
years. 

3503.— DANDELION  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 4  quarts  of  dandelion  flowers,  4  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
3  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  inch  whole  ginger,  i  lemon,  the  thinly-pared 
rind  of  i  orange,  i  tablespoonful  of  brewer's  yeast  or  £  of  an  oz.  of 
compressed  yeast  moistened  with  water. 

Method. — Put  the  petals  of  the  flowers  into  a  bowl,  pour  over  them 
the  boiling  water,  let  the  bowl  remain  covered  for  3  days,  meanwhile 
stirring  it  well  and  frequently.  Strain  the  liquid  into  a  preserving 
pan,  add  the  rinds  of  the  orange  and  lemon,  both  of  which  should  be 
pared  off  in  thin  fine  strips,  the  sugar,  ginger,  and  the  lemon  previously 
stripped  of  its  white  pith,  and  thinly  sliced.  Boil  gently  for  about 
£  an  hour,  and  when  cool  add  the  yeast  spread  on  a  piece  of  toast. 
Allow  it  to  stand  for  2  days,  then  turn  it  into  a  cask,  keep  it  well  bunged 
down  for  8  or  9  weeks,  and  bottle  the  wine  for  use. 

3504.— EAST  INDIA  PUNCH. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  brandy,  i  pint  of  port  wine,  i  pint  of  syrup, 
No.  2599,  £  a  pint  of  lime-juice  syrup,  i  bottle  of  seltzer  water  iced, 
\  a  gill  of  arrack,  the  thinly  pared  rinds  of  2  lemons,  2  or  3  sprigs  of 
syringa,  i  breakfastcupful  of  crushed  ice,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Soak  the  lemon-rind  in  the  brandy  for  3  hours,  then  strain, 
add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  serve. 

3505.— EGG  FLIP.     (See  Sherry  Egg  Flip,  No.  3626.) 

3506.— ELDERBERRY  WINE.     (See  Elder  Wine,  No. 
35070 

3507.— ELDER  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 7  Ibs.  of  elderberries,  3  gallons  of  water.  To  each  gallon 
of  liquid  thus  obtained  add  3  Ibs.  of  good  loaf  sugar,  i  Ib.  of  raisins, 
£  an  oz.  of  ground  ginger,  6  cloves,  £  of  a  pint  of  brandy,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  brewer's  yeast. 

Method. — Strip  the  berries  from  the  stalks,  pour  the  water,  quite 
boiling,  over  them,  let  them  stand  for  24  hours,  then  bruise  well  and  drain 
through  a  hair  sieve  or  jelly  bag.  Measure  the  juice  obtained,  put  it 
into  a  preserving  pan  with  sugar,  raisins,  ginger,  and  cloves  in  above- 
stated  proportions,  boil  gently  for  i  hour,  and  skim  when  necessary. 
Let  the  liquid  stand  until  milk-warm,  then  stir  in  the  yeast  and  turn 


1484  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  whole  into  a  clean,  dry  cask.  Cover  the  bung-hole  with  a  folded 
cloth,  let  the  cask  remain  undisturbed  for  14  days,  then  stir  in  the  brandy 
and  bung  tightly.  In  about  6  months  the  wine  may  be  drawn  off  into 
bottles,  tightly  corked,  and  stored  for  use. 

ELDERBERRY  WINE.— The  elderberry  is  well  adapted  for  the  production  of  wine  ;  its  juice  contains 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  principle  necessary  for  a  vigorous  fermentation,  and  its  beautiful  colour 
communicates  a  rich  tint  to  the  wine  made  from  it.  It  is,  however,  deficient  in  sweetness,  and  there- 
fore demands  an  addition  of  sugar.  It  is  one  of  the  best  old  English  wines. 

3508.— FLOSTER. 

Ingredients. — i  gill  of  sherry,  \  a  gill  of  noyeau,  i  oz.  of  loaf  sugar, 
3  or  4  thin  slices  of  lemon,  i  bottle  of  iced  soda-water,  i  lump  of  ice. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  together  in  a  large  tumbler,  and 
imbibe  through  a  straw. 

3509.— GINGER  BEER. 

Ingredients. — 5  quarts  of  boiling  water,  i£  Ib.  of  sugar,  i  oz.  of  whole 
ginger  bruised,  2  lemons,  \  of  an  oz.  of  cream  of  tartar,  i  good  table- 
spoonful  of  brewer's  yeast. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  the  lemons  as  thinly  as  possible,  strip 
off  every  particle  of  white  pith,  cut  the  lemons  into  thin  slices,  removing 
the  pips.  Put  the  sliced  lemon  into  an  earthenware  bowl  with  the 
sugar,  ginger,  and  cream  of  tartar,  and  pour  in  the  boiling  water. 
Allow  it  to  stand  until  milk-warm,  then  stir  in  the  yeast  and  let  the 
bowl  remain  in  a  moderately  warm  place  for  24  hours.  Skim  the  yeast 
oft  the  top,  strain  the  ginger-beer  carefully  from  the  sediment,  bottle, 
tie  the  corks  down  securely,  and  in  2  days  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

3510.— GINGER  BRANDY. 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  Jamaica  ginger,  i  quart  of  brandy,  \  a  pint  of 
water,  i  Ib.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  juniper  berries  (mixed  black  and  white). 

Method. — Crush  finely  the  ginger  and  juniper  berries,  put  them  into 
a  wide-necked  bottle,  and  pour  in  the  brandy.  Cork  securely,  let  the 
bottle  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  3  days,  shaking  it  3  or  4  times  daily. 
On  the  third  day  boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  a  thick  syrup,  and  when 
cool  add  to  it  the  brandy,  which  must  previously  be  strained  through 
fine  muslin  or  filtering  paper  until  quite  clear.  When  quite  cold, 
bottle,  cork  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

35II. —GINGER  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 3  gallons  of  cold  water,  9  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  \  of  a  Ib.  of 
whole  ginger,  bruised,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  raisins,  the  strained  juice  and  finely- 
pared  rinds  of  4  lemons,  a  good  tablespoon ful  of  brewer's  yeast. 

Method. — Stone  and  halve  the  raisins,  put  them  into  a  large  preserving 
pan,  or  perfectly  clean  coppir,  with  the  water,  sugar,  and  ginger^ 


RECIPES    FOR   HOME-MADE   WINES,    ETC.       1485 

bruised;  boil  for  i  hour,  skimming  frequently.  Turn  the  whole  into  a 
large  earthenware  bowl  or  wooden  tub,  allow  the  liquid  to  stand  until 
milk-warm,  then  stir  in  the  yeast.  On  the  following  day  put  the 
preparation  into  a  clean,  dry  cask,  add  the  lemon-juice,  and  bung 
lightly.  Stir  the  wine  every  day  for  a  fortnight,  then  tighten  the  bung. 
Let  the  wine  remain  undisturbed  for  3  or  4  months,  when  it  may  be 
bottled  for  use. 

3512.  -GINGER  WINE.      (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 6  gallons  of  water,  14  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  6  ozs.  of  whole 
ginger,  bruised,  2  Ibs.  of  Muscatel  raisins,  4  Ibs.  of  Valencia  raisins, 
£  an  oz.  of  isinglass,  6  lemons,  i  pint  of  brandy. 

Method. — Remove  the  peel  of  the  lemons  as  thinly  as  possible,  and 
boil  it  with  the  water,  sugar  and  ginger  for  £  an  hour.  Meanwhile 
stone  and  halve  the  raisins,  put  them  into  an  earthenware  bowl,  pour 
the  liquid  over  them  when  nearly  cold,  add  the  lemon-juice  and 
yeast.  Stir  it  every  day  for  a  fortnight,  then  add  the  isinglass  previ- 
ously dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  drain  into  a  clean,  dry 
cask.  Let  the  wine  remain  closely  bunged  for  about  3  months,  then 
bottle  for  use. 

3513.— GOOSEBERRY  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — 14  Ibs.  of  ripe  green  gooseberries,  12  Ibs.  of  sugar,  6 
gallons  of  water. 

Method. — Bruise  the  gooseberries  in  a  bowl  or  tub,  and  pour  over 
them  the  water,  which  must  previously  be  boiled  and  allowed  to  cool. 
Let  them  remain  for  3  days,  stirring  frequently,  then  strain,  add  the 
sugar,  and  when  dissolved  pour  the  whole  into  a  clean,  dry  cask.  Bung 
loosely  until  fermentation  has  ceased,  then  tighten  the  bung,  and  let 
the  cask  remain  in  a  dry,  moderately  warm  place  for  9  months.  At 
the  end  of  this  time  rack  the  vinegar  into  clean,  dry  bottles,  store 
for  3  or  4  months  longer,  then  use. 

3514.— GOOSEBERRY  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 20  Ibs.  of  firm  green  gooseberries,  3  gallons  of  hot  water, 
1 5  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  ^  ozs.  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Method. — Top  and  tail  the  gooseberries,  put  them  into  an  earthenware 
bowl  or  wooden  tub,  and  pour  over  them  the  hot  water.  Let  them  soak 
for  24  hours,  then  bruise  them  well  with  a  heavy  wooden  mallet  or 
potato  masher,  and  drain  the  juice  through  a  fine  hair  sieve  or  jelly- 
bag.  Replace  the  skins  in  the  vessel  in  which  they  were  soaked,  cover 
them  with  boiling  water,  stir  and  bruise  well  so  as  to  complctel 
tract  the  juice,  then  strain  through  the  sieve  or  bag.  Mix  this  pre- 
paration with  the  juice,  add  the  sugar,  and  boiling  water  to  increase 


I486  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

the  liquid  to  5  gallons.  Replace  in  the  bowl  or  tub,  stir  in  the  cream 
of  tartar,  cover  with  a  heavy  woollen  cloth,  and  allow  the  vessel  to 
stand  in  a  moderately  warm  place  for  2  days.  Now  strain  the  liquid 
into  a  small  cask,  cover  the  bung-hole  with  a  iolded  cloth  until  fermenta- 
tion ceases — which  may  be  known  by  the  cessation  of  the  hissing  noise — 
then  bung  closely,  but  provide  the  top  of  the  cask  with  a  vent-peg. 
Make  this  wine  in  the  beginning  of  June,  before  the  berries  ripen  ; 
let  it  remain  undisturbed  until  December,  then  drain  it  off  carefully 
into  a  clean  cask.  In  March  or  April,  or  when  the  gooseberry  bushes 
begin  to  blossom,  the  wine  must  be  bottled  and  tightly  corked.  To 
ensure  its  being  clear  and  effervescing,  the  wine  must  be  bottled  at  the 
right  time  and  on  a  clear  day. 

3515.— GOOSEBERRY  WINE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Firm  green  gooseberries.      To  each  Ib.   of  fruit  allow 

2  pints  of  cold  water.     To  each  gallon  of  juice  obtained  from  the  fruit 
allow  3  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  \  a  pint  of  good  gin,  4  ozs.  of  isinglass. 

Method. — Top  and  tail  the  gooseberries,  bruise  them  thoroughly, 
pour  over  them  the  cold  water,  and  let  them  stand  for  about  4  days, 
stirring  frequently.  Strain  through  a  jelly-bag  or  fine  hair  sieve, 
dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  liquid,  add  the  gin  and  isinglass  dissolved  in 
a  little  -warm  water,  and  pour  the  whole  into  a  cask.  Bung  loosely 
until  fermentation  has  ceased,  then  tighten  the  bung,  and  let  the  cask 
remain  undisturbed  for  at  least  6  months.  At  the  end  of  this  time 
the  wine  may  be  bottled,  but  it  will  not  be  ready  for  use  for  at 
least  12  months. 

3516.— GRAPE  WINE. 

Ingredients. — Sound,  not  over-ripe  grapes;  to  each  Ib.  allow  i  quart 
of  cold  water.  Add  to  each  gallon  of  liquid  obtained  from  the  grapes 

3  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of  French  brandy,  £  ol  an  oz.  of  isinglass. 

Method. — Strip  the  grapes  from  the  stalks,  put  them  into  a  wooden 
tub  or  earthenware  bowl,  and  bruise  them  well.  Pour  over  them  the 
water,  let  them  stand  for  3  days,  stirring  frequently,  then  strain  through 
a  jelly-bag  or  fine  hair  sieve.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  liquid,  then  pour 
the  whole  into  a  cask.  Bung  lightly  for  a  few  days  until  fermentation 
subsides,  then  add  the  isinglass  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water,  and 
the  brandy,  and  tighten  the  bung.  Let  the  cask  remain  undisturbed 
for  6  months,  then  rack  the  wine  off  into  bottles,  cork  and  seal  them 
securely,  and  keep  for  at  least  a  year  before  using. 

3517.— HOP  BEER. 

Ingredients. — 5  ozs.  of  hops,  8  gallons  of  water,  z\  Ib.  of  brown  sugar, 
3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  yeast. 


RECIPES    FOR    HOME-MADE    WINES,    ETC.       1487 

Method. — Boil  hops  and  water  together  for  45  minutes,  add  the  sugar, 
and,  when  dissolved,  strain  into  a  bowl  or  tub.  As  soon  as  it  is  luke- 
warm add  the  yeast,  let  it  work  for  48  hours,  then  skim  well,  and  strain 
into  bottles,  or  a  small  cask.  Cork  securely,  and  let  it  remain  for  a  few 
days  before  using  it. 

3518.— HOPS     AND     SHERRY.       (See  Sherry  Tonic, 
No.  3549.) 

35I9-— JOHN  COLLINS. 

Ingredients. —  i  glass  of  gin,  i  bottle  of  iced  soda  water,  i  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon- juice,  2  or  3  thin  slices  of 
lemon,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Half  fill  a  tumbler  with  ice,  pour  over  it  the  gin  and  lemon- 
juice,  add  the  sugar,  cover  with  a  small  plate,  and  shake  well.  Strain 
into  another  tumbler,  add  the  soda  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  crushed 
ice,  and  the  sliced  lemon,  then  serve. 

3520.— LEMON  FLIP. 

Ingredients. — -J-  of  a  pint  of  lemon-juice,  the  rind  of  2  lemons,  5  or  6 
ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4  eggs,  i  pint  of  boiling  water,  •£•  of  a  pint  of  sherry. 

Method. — Take  the  rind  off  2  lemons  in  the  thinnest  possible  strips. 
Put  them  into  a  jug  with  the  sugar,  add  the  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
stand  until  cold.  Now  stir  in  the  well-beaten  eggs,  the  strained  lemon- 
juice  and  the  sherry,  strain  through  a  fine  strainer,  and  use. 

3521.— LEMON  SYRUP. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  pints  of  water,  i  oz.  of  citric  acid, 
£  a  drachm  of  essence  of  lemon. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  15  minutes,  and  put 
the  liquid  into  a  basin,  where  let  it  remain  till  cold.  Beat  the  citric 
acid  to  a  powder,  mix  with  it  the  essence  of  lemon,  then  add  these 
two  ingredients  to  the  syrup,  mix  well,  and  bottle  for  use.  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  syrup  are  sufficient  for  a  tumbler  of  cold  water,  and 
will  be  found  a  very  refreshing  summer  drink. 

3522.— LEMON  SYRUP.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  lemon,  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  tartaric  acid, 
I  pint  of  boiling  water. 

Method. — Take  off  the  rind  of  the  lemon  in  thin  fine  strips  and  place 
tin 'in  in  a  jug.  Remove  the  whole  of  the  white  pith,  slice  the  lemon 
thinly,  put  it  into  the  jug  with  the  sugar  and  tartaric  acid,  pour  in  the 
water,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  When  quite  cold,  strain 
the  syrup  into  a  bottle  and  cork  tightly.  A  pleasant  drink  may  be 
made  by  adding  i  part  of  this  syrup  to  6  parts  of  water. 


i488  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3523.— LEMON  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 10  lemons,  4  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  4  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
i  tablespoonful  of  brewer's  yeast. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  5  lemons  in  thin  fine  strips,  and  place 
them  in  a  wooden  tub  or  earthenware  bowl.  Boil  the  sugar  and  water 
together  for  £  an  hour,  then  pour  the  syrup  over  the  lemon-peel.  When 
cool,  add  the  strained  juice  of  the  10  lemons,  stir  in  the  yeast,  and  let 
the  vessel  stand  for  48  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time,  strain  into  a 
cask,  which  the  wine  must  quite  fill,  bung  loosely  until  fermentation 
ceases,  then  tighten  the  bung,  and  allow  the  cask  to  remain  undisturbed 
for  about  6  months  before  racking  the  wine  off  into  bottles. 

3524.— LEMON  WINE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — To  4^  gallons  of  water  allow  the  pulp  and  juice  of  50 
and  the  rinds  of  25  lemons,  16  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  isinglass, 
i  pint  of  brandy. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  25  lemons  in  thin  strips,  remove 
from  each  lemon  every  particle  of  white  pith,  and  cut  them  into  slices. 
Put  aside  the  pips,  place  the  sliced  lemon  rind  and  lemons  in  a  wooden 
tub  or  earthenware  bowl,  and  pour  over  them  the  cold  water.  Stir 
frequently  for  7  days,  then  strain  into  a  cask  and  add  the  sugar.  Bung 
loosely  until  fermentation  ceases,  then  add  the  isinglass  dissolved  in 
a  little  water,  and  bung  tightly  for  6  months.  At  the  end  of  this  time 
add  the  brandy,  and  rack  the  wine  off  into  bottles. 

3525._MALT  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 5  gallons  of  water,  28  Ibs.  of  sugar,  6  quarts  of  sweet- 
wort,  6  quarts  of  tun,  3  Ibs.  of  raisins,  \  a  Ib.  of  candy,  i  pint  of  brandy. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  water  together  for  10  minutes;  skim  it 
well,  and  put  the  liquor  into  a  convenient  sized  pan  or  tub.  Allow  it 
to  cool ;  then  mix  it  with  the  sweet-wort  and  tun.  Let  the  preparation 
stand  for  3  days,  then  put  it  into  a  barrel,  and  let  it  ferment  for 
another  3  days  or  more,  then  bung  up  the  cask,  and  keep  it  undis- 
turbed for  2  or  3  months.  After  this,  add  the  raisins  (whole),  the  candy 
and  brandy,  and  in  6  months'  time  bottle  off  the  wine.  Those  who  do 
not  brew  may  procure  the  sweet-wort  and  tun  from  any  brewer. 

Note. — Sweet- wort  is  the  liquor  that  leaves  the  mash  of  malt  before  it  is 
boiled  with  the  hops  ;  tun  is  the  new  beer  after  the  whole  of  the  brewing 
operation  has  been  completed. 

3526.— MEAD. 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  honey,  4  quarts  of  water,  \  of  a  pint  of  brewer's 
yeast. 


RECIPES   FOR   HOME-MADE   WINES,    ETC.       1489 

Method. — Dissolve  the  honey  in  the  water,  bring  it  slowly  to  the  boil, 
and  simmer  gently  until  reduced  to  3  quarts,  skimming  when  necessary. 
Then  turn  it  into  an  earthenware  towl  or  wooden  tub,  and  when  cool 
stir  in  the  yeast,  and  let  it  remain  covered  for  3  days.  At  the  end  of 
this  time  strain  the  liquid  into  a  cask,  bung  loosely  until  fermentation 
subsides,  then  tighten  the  bung,  and  allow  the  cask  to  remain  undis- 
turbed for  12  months  before  racking  the  mead  into  bottles. 


3527.— MEAD.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 5  Ibs.  of  honey,  3  gallons  of  water,  the  whites  of  2  eggs, 
i  blade  of  mace,  £  an  inch  of  cinnamon,  3  cloves,  £  an  inch  of  whole 
ginger,  i  tablespoonful  of  brewer's  yeast. 

Method. — Beat  the  whites  of  eggs  slightly,  put  them  into  a  large 
pan  with  the  water,  honey,  mace,  cinnamon,  cloves  and  ginger,  whisk 
or  stir  frequently  till  boiling  point  is  reached,  then  simmer  gently 
for  i  hour.  Let  the  preparation  cool,  strain  it  into  a  cask,  stir 
in  the  yeast,  cover  the  bung-hole  with  a  folded  cloth  until  fermentation 
ceases,  then  bung  tightly,  and  let  the  cask  stand  in  a  cool,  dry  place 
for  9  months.  At  the  end  of  this  time  rack  the  mead  carefully  into 
S  and  cork  them  tightly.  The  mead  may  be  used  at  once,  but 
it  will  keep  good  for  years,  if  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 


3528.— MEAD  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 5  gallons  of  water,  5  Ibs.  of  honey,  2  ozs.  of  dried  hops, 
i  tablespoonful  of  yeast. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  honey  in  the  water,  add  the  hops,  and  simmer 
very  gently  for  i  hour,  turn  into  an  earthenware  bowl,  let  it  become 
milk-warm,  then  stir  in  the  yeast.  Allow  it  to  remain  covered  for  3 
then  strain  the  liquid  into  a  cask,  bung  loosely  until  f crmcivt.it ion 
subsides,  and  afterwards  tighten  the  bung.  The  wine  should  remain 
in  the  cask  for  12  months,  and  then  be  racked  off  carefully  into  bottles. 

3529.— METHEGLIN. 

Ingredients. — 3^  Ibs.  of  honey,  i  quart  of  white-currant  juice,  2  gallons 
of  boiling  water,  £  of  an  oz.  of  cream  of  tartar,  i  pint  of  brandy. 

Method.— Mix  all  together  but  the  brandy,  and  stir  until  the  honey 
is  dissolved.  Let  it  remain  until  fermentation  ceases,  then  strain, 
add  the  brandy,  bottle,  and  cork  securely. 

Or  dissolve  4^  Ibs.  of  honey  in  5  quarts  of  boiling  water  in  which  i  ot. 
of  hops  has  been  simmered  for  20  minutes,  and,  when  cool,  stir  in 

•poonfuls  of  yeast.     \Yh.-n  ft-rmcntation  has  ceased,  strain  into 
bottles  and  cork  securely, 


1490  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3530.— MULLED  WINE.    (See  Mulled  Claret,  No.  3599, 
and  Negus,  No.  3600.) 

353i.— ORANGE  BRANDY. 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  French  brandy,  |  of  a  pint  of  orange-juice, 
the  rind  of  6  oranges,  i£  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  6  oranges  as  thinly  as  possible,  mix 
the  strained  orange-juice  and  brandy  together,  add  the  prepared  rinds 
and  sugar,  and  turn  the  whole  into  a  wide-necked  bottle.  Cork  closely, 
shake  it  2  or  3  times  daily  for  10  days,  then  strain  into  small  bottles, 
and  store  for  use. 

3532.— ORANGE  WINE. 

Ingredients. — The  juice  of  50  Seville  oranges,  15  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
4  gallons  of  water,  the  whites  and  shells  of  3  eggs,  i  pint  of  French 
brandy,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  brewer's  yeast. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water,  add  the  whites  and  crushed 
shells  of  the  eggs,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes. 
Let  it  stand  until  nearly  cold,  then  strain  through  a  jelly-bag,  add  the 
strained  orange- juice  and  yeast,  and  leave  the  vessel  covered  for  24 
hours.  Pour  into  a  cask,  bung  loosely  until  fermentation  subsides, 
then  tighten  the  bung,  and  allow  the  cask  to  remain  undisturbed  for 
3  months.  At  the  end  of  this  time  rack  it  off  into  another  cask,  add 
the  brandy,  let  it  remain  closely  bunged  for  12  months,  then  bottle 
for  use. 

3533._ORANGE  WINE.        (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 90  Seville  oranges,  32  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  cold  water. 

Method. — Remove  the  peel  of  20  oranges  as  thinly  as  possible,  put 
it  into  an  earthenware  bowl,  and  cover  it  with  water.  Extract  as 
much  of  the  juice  as  possible  from  all  the  oranges,  and  strain  it  over  the 
sugar.  Put  the  pulp  into  a  separate  vessel,  and  cover  it  with  water. 
Let  the  whole  stand  for  48  hours,  then  put  the  sugar  and  orange- juice 
into  a  9-gallon  cask,  strain,  and  add  the  liquid  from  the  orange-rinds 
and  pulp.  Cover  the  rinds  and  pulp  with  more  water,  and  repeat  the 
same  process  every  48  hours  until  the  cask  is  full.  Bung  loosely  for 

3  or  4  days,  then  tighten  the  bung,  and  after  9  months,  bottle  for  use. 

3534._PARSNIP  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 4  Ibs.  of  parsnips,  3  Ibs.  of  Demerara  sugar,  £  of  an  oz. 
of  mild  hops,  i  tablespoonful  of  fresh  yeast,  i  slice  of  toasted  bread, 

4  quarts  of  boiling  water. 


RECIPES    FOR    HOME-MADE    WINES,    ETC.       1491 

Method. — Boil  the  parsnips  gently  in  the  water  for  1 5  minutes,  add 
the  hops,  and  cook  for  10  minutes  longer.  Strain,  add  the  sugar, 
let  the  liquid  become  lukewarm,  and  put  in  the  toast  spread  with  the 
yeast.  Let  it  ferment  for  36  hours,  then  turn  it  into  a  cask,  which  it 
should  fill.  As  soon  as  fermentation  ceases,  strain  into  small  bottles, 
cork  securely,  and  store  for  at  least  i  month  before  using. 

3535.— RAHAHOUT. 

Ingredients. —  i  teaspoonful  of  grated  chocolate,  i  teacupful  of  castor 
sugar,  i  teacupful  of  rice-flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  arrowroot,  i  small 
vanilla  pod. 

Method.— Pound  and  sieve  the  vanilla,  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients, 
and  turn  into  an  air-tight  tin.  When  required  for  use,  mix  i  dessert- 
spoonful smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk  or  water,  stir  in  ^  of  a  pint  of 
boiling  milk,  bring  to  the  boil,  cook  for  a  few  seconds,  and  serve. 

3536.— RAISIN  WINE. 

Ingredients. — To  each  Ib.  of  raisins  allow  i  gallon  ot  cold  water, 
2  Ibs.  of  good  preserving  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  yeast. 

Method. — Strip  the  raisins  from  the  stalk,  put  them  into  a  large 
boiler  or  clean  copper  with  the  water,  simmer  gently  for  about  i  hour, 
then  rub  them  through  a  sieve.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  liquid,  and 
add  the  raisin-pulp  and  the  yeast,  let  the  vessel  stand  covered  for  3 
days,  then  strain  the  liquid  into  a  cask.  Bung  loosely  until  fermenta- 
tion ceases,  then  tighten  the  bung,  and  allow  the  cask  to  stand  for  at 
least  12  months  before  racking  the  wine  off  into  bottles. 

3537.— RAISIN  WINE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 16  Ibs.  of  raisins,  2  gallons  of  water. 

Method. — Strip  the  raisins  from  the  stalks,  put  them  into  an  earthen- 
ware or  wooden  vessel,  pour  over  them  the  water,  and  let  them  remain 
covered  for  4  weeks,  stirring  daily.  At  the  end  of  this  time  strain  the 
liquid  into  a  cask  which  it  will  quite  fill,  bung  loosely  until  fermentation 
subsides,  then  tighten  the  bung,  and  allow  the  cask  to  remain  undis- 
turbed for  12  months.  Now  rack  it  off  carefully  into  another  cask, 
straining  the  liquid  near  the  bottom  of  the  cask  repeatedly  until  quite 
clear,  let  it  stand  for  at  least  2  years,  and  then  bottle  for  use. 

3538.— RAISIN   WINE   WITH    CIDER. 

Ingredients. — 8  gallons  of  good  cider,  1 5  Ibs.  of  Malaga  raisins,  i  bottle 
of  French  brandy,  3  ozs.  of  sugar  candy,  the  rind  of  t  lemons. 

Method. — Strip  the  raisins  from  the  stalks,  halve  them,  put  them 
into  a  Q  gallon  cask,  and  pour  over  them  the  cider.  Bung  lightly  for 
5  or  6  days,  then  tighten  the  bung  and  let  the  cask  stand  for  6  months. 


1492  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Strain  into  another  cask,  passing  the  liquid  near  the  bottom  repeatedly 
through  a  jelly-bag  or  fine  muslin  until  quite  clear,  add  the  brandy, 
the  sugar-candy  crushed  to  a  powder,  and  the  finely-pared  rind  of  the 
lemons.  Keep  the  wine  well  bunged  for  2  years,  then  bottle,  cork  and 
seal  securely,  store  it  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  one  year  longer,  when  it 
will  be  ready  for  use. 

3539.— RASPBERRY  BRANDY. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  ripe  raspberries,  i  quart  of  French  brandy, 
I  of  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Put  the  raspberries  into  a  wide-necked  bottle,  pour  the 
brandy  over  them,  cork  the  bottle  tightly,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  moder- 
ately warm  place  for  14  days.  Have  ready  a  thick  syrup,  made  by 
boiling  together  the  sugar  and  water  until  the  right  consistency  is 
obtained.  Strain  the  liquor  from  the  bottle  repeatedly  until  quite 
clear,  then  mix  it  with  the  syrup,  and  pour  the  whole  into  small  bottles. 
Cork  them  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

3540.— RASPBERRY  GIN. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  ripe  raspberries,  i  quart  of  good  gin,  i  Ib.  of 
sugar-candy. 

Method. — Break  the  sugar-candy  in  small  pieces,  put  it  into  a  jar 
with  the  raspberries  and  gin,  cover  closely,  and  let  it  remain  thus  for 
12  months,  shaking  it  daily  for  3  or  4  weeks.  At  the  end  of  the  time 
strain  or  filter  until  clear,  and  bottle  for  use. 

3541.— RASPBERRY  VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  ripe  raspberries,  3  pints  of  white  wine  vinegar, 
loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Put  i  Ib.  of  picked  raspberries  into  a  wide-necked  glass 
bottle,  pour  over  them  the  vinegar,  and  let  them  infuse  for  3  days. 
Strain  the  liquid  through  a  hair  sieve,  drain  the  fruit  thoroughly,  but 
do  not  squeeze  it.  Pour  the  liquid  over  another  Ib.  of  the  raspberries, 
and  after  3  days  strain  and  drain  as  before.  Repeat  the  process  with 
the  third  Ib.  of  raspberries.  Measure  the  liquid ;  to  each  pint  allow  i  Ib. 
of  sugar;  put  the  whole  into  a  saucepan  (preferably  an  enamelled  one), 
and  boil  gently  for  10  minutes,  skimming  when  necessary  meanwhile. 
When  quite  cold  strain  into  small  bottles,  cork  securely,  and  store  for 
use. 

3542.— RASPBERRY    VINEGAR.  (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  raspberries,  2  quarts  of  white  vine  vinegar. 
To  each  pint  of  liquid  obtained  from  these  add  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar. 


RECIPES   FOR   HOME-MADE   WINES,    ETC.       1493 

Method. — Put  the  raspberries  into  a  wide-necked  glass  bottle,  or  an 
unglazed  jar;  pour  over  them  the  vinegar;  cover,  and  let  the  liquid 
stand  for  10  days,  stirring  it  daily.  Strain  and  measure  the  vinegar  ; 
to  each  pint  allow  ib.  of  sugar,  and  stir  occasionally  till  the  sugar  is 
dissolved.  Pour  the  whole  into  a  jar,  place  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water,  and  simmer  gently  for  i£  hours,  skimming  when  neces- 
sary. When  cold,  bottle  for  use. 

3543.—RASPBERRY  AND  CURRANT  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 6  quarts  of  raspberries,  4  quarts  of  red  currants,  10 
quarts  of  water,  10  Ibs.  of  good  preserving  sugar,  i  pint  of  French 
brandy. 

Method. — Strip  the  red  currants  from  the  stalks,  put  them  into  a  large 
earthenware  or  wooden  vessel,  and  pour  over  them  the  water  (which 
must  have  been  previously  boiled,  and  allowed  to  become  quite  cold). 
On  the  following  day  crush  the  red  currants  with  a  wooden  mallet  or 
potato  masher,  add  the  raspberries,  and  allow  the  whole  to  stand  until 
the  following  day.  Strain  the  liquid  through  a  jelly -bag  or  fine  hair 
sieve,  and  drain  the  fruit  thoroughly,  but  do  not  squeeze  it.  Stir  in 
the  sugar,  and  when  quite  dissolved  turn  the  wine  into  a  clean,  dry 
cask.  Bung  loosely  until  fermentation  has  entirely  subsided,  then 
tighten  the  bung,  and  allow  the  cask  to  remain  undisturbed  for  3  months. 
At  the  end  of  this  time  rack  the  wine  off  carefully,  straining  that  near 
the  bottom  of  the  cask  repeatedly  until  quite  clear.  Scald  and  drain 
the  cask,  replace  the  wine,  add  the  brandy,  bung  lightly,  let  it  remain 
2  months  longer  in  the  cask,  and  then  l>ottlc. 


3544.— RASPBERRY  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 10  quarts  of  ripe  raspberries,  10  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
6  Ibs.  of  good  preserving  sugar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  biw.  rr's  yeast, 
i  pint  of  French  brandy,  ^  of  an  oz.  of  isinglass. 

Method. — Prepare  the  fruit  in  the  usual  way,  put  it  into  an  earthen- 
ware or  wooden  vessel,  pour  over  it  the  boiling  water,  and  let  it  remain 
covered  until  the  following  day.  Pass  both  liquid  and  fruit  through 
a  fine  hair  sieve,  let  it  stand  for  24  hours,  then  strain  it  carefully, 
without  disturbing  the  sediment,  into  another  vessel.  Add  the  sugar, 
stir  in  the  yeast,  and  as  soon  as  the  sugar  is  dissolved  turn  the  whole 
into  a  clean,  dry  cask.  Cover  the  bung-hole  with  a  folded  cloth  until 
fermentation  subsides,  then  bung  it  closely.  Let  it  stand  for  i  month, 
rack  it  off  into  a  clean  cask,  add  the  brandy,  and  isinglass  dissolved 
in  a  little  warm  water,  bung  tightly,  and  allow  it  to  remain  undisturbed 
for  12  months.  At  the  end  of  this  time  rack  it  off  into  bottles,  cork 
them  securely,  store  for  12  months  longer,  and  the  wine  will  be  ready 
for  use. 


1494  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3545.— RASPBERRY  WINE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 6  quarts  of  ripe  raspberries,  6  quarts  of  water,  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Put  the  raspberries  into  an  earthenware  or  wooden  vessel, 
bruise  them  well  with  a  heavy  wooden  spoon,  and  pour  over  them  the 
cold  water.  Let  them  stand  until  the  following  day,  stirring  them  fre- 
quently, then  strain  the  liquid  through  a  jelly-bag  or  fine  hair  sieve, 
and  drain  the  fruit  thoroughly,  but  avoid  squeezing  it.  Measure  the 
liquid;  to  each  quart  add  I  Ib.  of  sugar  ;  stir  occasionally  until  dissolved, 
then  turn  the  whole  into  a  cask.  Bung  loosely  for  several  days,  until 
fermentation  ceases,  then  tighten  the  bung,  let  it  remain  thus  for  3 
months,  and  bottle  for  use. 

3546.— RHUBARB  WINE. 

Ingredients. — 25  Ibs.  of  rhubarb,  5  gallons  of  cold  water:  to  each  gallon 
of  liquid  thus  obtained  add  3  Ibs.  of  either  loaf  or  good  preserving 
sugar,  and  the  juice  and  very  thinly  pared  rind  of  i  lemon.  To  the  whole 
add  i  oz.  of  isinglass. 

Method. — Wipe  the  rhubarb  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  cut  it  into  short 
lengths,  leaving  on  the  peel.  Put  it  into  an  earthenware  or  wooden 
vessel,  crush  it  thoroughly  with  a  wooden  mallet  or  heavy  potato 
masher,  and  pour  over  it  the  water.  Let  it  remain  covered  for  10  days, 
stirring  it  daily;  then  strain  the  liquor  into  another  vessel,  add  the 
sugar,  lemon-juice  and  rind,  and  stir  occasionally  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved.  Now  put  it  into  a  cask,  and  add  the  isinglass  previously 
dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water  ;  cover  the  bung-hole  with  a  folded 
cloth  for  10  days,  then  bung  securely,  and  allow  it  to  remain  undisturbed 
for  12  months.  At  the  end  of  this  time  rack  off  into  bottles,  and  use. 

3547.— RHUBARB  WINE.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 20  Ibs.  of  rhubarb,  5  gallons  of  cold,  water,  12  Ibs.  of  loaf 
or  good  preserving  sugar,  i  pint  of  French  brandy,  4-  a  Ib.  of  barley- 
sugar,  £  an  oz.  of  isinglass,  the  rind  of  2  oranges,  the  rind  of  2  lemons. 

Method. — Wipe  the  rhubarb  with  a  damp  cloth,  slice  it  thinly,  put 
it  into  a  large  earthenware  or  wooden  vessel,  pour  over  it  the  water, 
and  let  it  stand  closely  covered  for  4  days.  Strain  the  liquid  through 
a  jelly-bag  or  fine  sieve,  pressing  the  pulp  as  dry  as  possible  without 
allowing  any  of  it  to  pass  through  the  sieve.  Add  the  sugar,  stir 
occasionally  until  dissolved,  then  turn  the  preparation  into  a  cask, 
and  cover  the  bung-hole  with  a  folded  cloth.  As  soon  as  fermentation 
subsides  add  the  brandy.  Bung  the  cask  securely,  and  allow  it  to 
remain  undisturbed  for  3  months.  Rack  the  wine  into  a  clean,  dry  cask, 
add  the  very  finely-pared  rind  of  the  oranges  and  lemons,  the  barley- 
sugar  finely-powdered,  and  the  isinglass  dissolved  in  a  little  warm 
water.  Bung  the  cask  securely,  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place  for  at  least 
12  months,  then  bottle,  cork  securely,  store  for  6  months  longer,  when 
the  wine  will  be  ready  for  use. 


RECIPES    FOR    HOME-MADE    WINES,    ETC.       1495 
3548.— RUM  PUNCH.  (See  Whisky  Punch,  No.  3612.) 

3549.— SHERRY  TONIC. 

Ingredients. — Hops,  sherry. 

Method. — Strip  the  hops  from  the  stalks,  put  them  into  wide-necked 
bottles,  filling  them  to  the  neck,  and  cover  with  sherry.  Let  them 
infuse  for  21  days,  then  strain  into  clean,  dry  bottles,  cork  securely, 
and  store  for  use. 

3550.— SHRUB. 

Ingredients. — \  gallon  of  rum,  £  of  a  pint  of  orange-juice,  \  a  pint  of 
lemon-juice,  the  peel  of  2  lemons,  2  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  2}  pints  of  water. 

Method. — Slice  the  lemon-peel  very  thinly,  and  put  it,  with  the  fruit 
juice  and  spirit,  in  a  large  covered  jar.  Let  it  stand  for  2  days,  then 
pour  over  it  the  water  in  which  the  sugar  has  been  dissolved,  take  out 
the  lemon-peel,  and  leave  it  for  12  days  before  using. 

355 1. -SUBSTITUTE    FOR  MILK  OR   CREAM. 

Ingredients. — Allow  i  new-laid  egg  to  a  breakfastcupful  of  tea  or  coffee. 
Method. — Beat  the  egg  well,  strain  it  into  the  cup,  and  add  the   tea 
or  coffee  very  gradually  at  first,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile. 

3552._TURNIP  WINE. 

Ingredients. — Turnips ;  to  each  gallon  of  turnip  juice  extracted  add 
3  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  and  £  a  pint  of  brand v. 

Method. — Wash,  pare  and  slice  the  turnips,  put  them  into  a  cider 
press,  and  press  out  the  juice.  Measure  the  juice  into  a  clean,  dry 
cask,  add  the  sugar  and  brandy,  and  bung  loosely.  As  soon  as  fermenta- 
tion ceases  tighten  the  bung,  let  the  wine  remain  undisturbed  for  3 
months,  then  bottle  and  cork  securely.  The  wine  should  be  ready  for 
use  in  a  year. 

3553.— WEDDING  PUNCH. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  champagne,  I  bottle  of  claret,  i  bottle  of 
seltzer  water  iced,  i  wineglassful  of  cura^oa,  sugar  to  taste,  \  a  pint  of 
crushed  ice,  strips  of  cucumber,  sprigs  of  young  mint. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  ingredients  together,  and  serve  with  the  mint 
and  cucumber  floating  on  the  surface, 

3554.— WELSH  NECTAR. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  raisins,  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  small  lemons, 
4  quarts  of  boiling  water. 


1496  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  the  lemons  as  thinly  as  possible,  and 
pour  over  them  the  boiling  water.  When  cool,  add  the  strained  juice 
of  the  lemons,  the  raisins  stoned  and  finely  chopped,  and  the  sugar. 
Cover ;  let  the  preparation  remain  for  5  days,  stirring  3  or  4  times  daily, 
then  strain  into  bottles.  This  beverage  will  keep  good  only  a  short  time. 


Liqueurs 


3555.— ANISE  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  good  brandy,  i  oz.  of  anise-seed,  i  Ib.  of  loaf 
sugar,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Put  the  anise-seed  into  the  brandy,  and  let  it  stand,  closely 
corked,  for  a  fortnight,  shaking  it  occasionally ;  boil  the  sugar  and  water 
to  a  syrup,  and  strain  the  brandy  into  it.  When  cool,  bottle,  cork 
securely,  and  store  for  use. 

3556.— ARRACK  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  arrack,  i  quart  of  water,  i  Ib.  of  sugar-candy, 
the  rind  of  ^  a  lemon. 

Method. — Remove  the  outer  part  of  the  lemon  rind  as  thinly  as 
possible,  add  it  and  the  sugar-candy  to  the  water,  and  boil  gently 
until  a  moderately  thick  syrup  is  formed.  Wrhen  cold,  strain  and  add 
it  to  the  arrack,  bottle,  cork  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

ARRACK. — This  spirit  is  produced  by  fermenting  the  juice  of  the  cocoa  and  other  palms  ;  it  is  exten- 
sively used  in  the  East,  but  is  little  known  in  England. 

3557.— BLACK    CURRANT    LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  black  currants,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar-candy,  i| 
pints  of  good  gin. 

Method. — Strip  the  fruit  from  the  stalks,  put  it  into  a  wide-necked 
bottle,  add  the  sugar-candy  crushed  to  a  fine  powder,  and  pour  in  the 
gin.  Let  it  stand  for  2  months,  then  strain  until  it  is  quite  clear, 
and  bottle  for  use. 

3558.  -CARAWAY  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  caraway  seeds,  £  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  quart  of 
brandy,  £  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Boil  the  sugar  and  water  to  thin  syrup,  pour  it,  quite 
boiling,  over  the  caraway  seeds,  let  it  cool  slightly,  and  add  the 
brandy.  When  quite  cold  pour  the  whole  into  a  bottle,  cork  securely, 
allow  it  to  stand  for  10  days,  then  strain  into  small  bottles,  cork  them 
tightly,  and  store  for  use. 


RECIPES   FOR   LIQUEURS  1497 

3559.— CHERRY  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  Morella  cherries,  i  Ib.  of  black  cherries,  \  a  Ib. 
of  loaf  or  good  preserving  sugar,  £  of  an  oz.  of  stick  cinnamon,  12  cloves, 
brandy. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  and  stones  from  the  cherries,  crush 
the  stones  and  cherries,  put  them  into  a  bottle  with  the  sugar,  cloves  and 
cinnamon,  and  pour  over  them  the  brandy.  Cork  closely,  let  it  stand  for 
14  days,  then  strain  into  small  bottles,  cork  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

3560.— CITRONEN  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — 4  lemons,  i  pint  of  spirits  of  wine,  i  pint  of  syrup, 
No.  2599. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  the  lemons  as  thinly  as  possible, 
pour  over  them  the  spirits  of  wine,  cover  and  put  aside  for  10  days. 
On  the  tenth  day  make  the  syrup  as  directed,  add  the  strained  juice  of 
4  lemons,  and,  when  quite  cold,  strain  and  mix  in  the  spirits  of  \vinc. 
Bottle,  cork  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

3561.— CLOVE  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  cloves,  £•  of  a  Ib.  of  coriander  seed,  £  a  Ib. 
of  loaf  sugar,  2  dozen  large  black  cherries,  i  quart  of  gin  or  brandy. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  and  stones  from  the  cherries,  bruise 
the  stones,  also  the  cloves  and  coriander  seed.  Put  the  whole  into  a 
wide-necked  bottle,  add  the  sugar,  pour  in  the  brandy,  and  cover  closely 
for  i  month.  When  ready,  strain  the  liquid  into  small  bottles,  cover 
closely,  and  store  for  use. 

3562.—  CURAQOA. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  brandy  or  rectified  spirits  of  \vino,  i  Ib.  of 
loaf  sugar,  £  a  pint  of  cold  water,  £  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  2  ozs.  of 
very  thinly-pared  orange  rind. 

Method. — Put  the  orange  rinds  into  a  jar,  pour  over  them 
the  boiling  water  ;  when  cool,  add  the  brandy.  Cover  closel 
the  liquid  stand  for  10  days  in  a  moderately  warm  place,  and  stir 
it  2  or  3  times  daily.  On  the  tenth  day,  boil  the  sugar  and  cold  water 
together  until  reduced  to  a  thick  syrup,  let  this  become  quite  cold, 
then  add  to  it  the  liquid  from  the  jar,  previously  strained  through 
flannel  or  fine  muslin  until  clear.  Pour  into  small  bottles,  cork  tightly, 
;nul  store  f<>r  use. 

3563.—  CURAC^OA.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  brandy  or  rectified  spirits  of  wine,  the  rinds 
of  6  Seville  oranges  and  i  lemon,  £  of  an  oz.  of  stick  cinnamon,  \  of  an  oz. 


1498  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

of  coriander  seed,   £   a  teaspoonful  of  saffron,   2   Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
2  pints  of  water. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  the  oranges  and  lemon  as  thinly  as 
possible,  put  them  into  a  jar  with  the  cinnamon,  coriander  seeds, 
saffron  and  brandy,  cover  closely,  and  let  the  liquid  stand  in  a  warm 
place  for  6  weeks.  At  the  end  of  this  time  boil  the  sugar  and  water 
to  a  thick  syrup  ;  when  quite  cold  strain  into  it  the  liquid  from  the  jar, 
bottle,  and  cork  securely. 

3564.— FOUR-FRUIT  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — f  of  a  Ib.  of  strawberries,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  Kentish  cherries, 
£  a  Ib.  of  raspberries,  \  a  Ib.  of  black  currants,  loaf  sugar,  brandy. 

Method. — Strip  the  fruit  from  the  stalks,  put  it  into  a  jar,  stand  the 
latter  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  for  i  hour.  Strain 
the  juice  through  a  jelly-bag,  being  careful  not  to  press  the  pulp,  and 
to  each  pint  of  strained  juice  and  \  a  pint  of  French  brandy,  3-  >  ozs.  of 
loaf  sugar,  and  "half  the  cherry  kernels.  Cover  closely,  let  the  liquor 
stand  for  3  days,  then  strain  it  into  small  bottles,  and  cork  them  securely. 

3565.— HAWTHORN  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — White  hawthorn  blossoms,  good  brandy. 

Method. — Gather  the  blossoms  on  a  dry  day,  put  them  into  wide- 
necked  bottles,  shaking,  but  not  pressing,  them  down.  Fill  the  bottles 
with  brandy,  cork  them  securely,  let  them  remain  thus  for  4  months, 
then  strain  the  liqueur  into  small  bottles,  and  cork  tightly.  This 
liqueur  is  used  chiefly  for  flavouring  creams,  custards,  etc. 

3566.— NOYEAU,  IMITATION  OF. 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  apricot,  nectarine,  or  peach  kernels,  i  Ib.  of 
sugar-candy,  i  quart  of  French  brandy. 

Method. — Blanch  the  kernels,  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  or  failing  this, 
chop  them  very  finely.  Put  them  into  a  wide-necked  bottle  or  jar, 
pour  over  them  the  brandy,  and  keep  them  in  a  warm  place  for  4  days, 
shaking  them  frequently.  Crush  the  sugar-candy  to  a  fine  powder,  add 
and  stir  occasionally  until  it  is  quite  dissolved,  then  strain  the  liquid  into 
small  bottles  and  cork  them  tightly.  The  noyeau  may  be  used  at 
once,  or  it  may  be  kept  for  some  time  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

3567.— NOYEAU,  IMITATION  OF.    (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 3  ozs.  of  bitter  almonds,  2  ozs.  of  sweet  almonds,  i  Ib. 
of  loaf  sugar,  i  quart  of  brandy  or  gin,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  honey. 

Method. — Blanch  the  almonds,  pound  them  well  in  a  mortar,  or  chop 
them  very  finely,  put  them  into  a  clean  wide-necked  bottle  or  jar,  pour 


RECIPES    FOR    LIQUEURS  1499 

into  them  the  spirit,  and  cover  closely.  Keep  the  jar  in  a  moderately 
cool  place  for  3  days,  shaking  frequently,  then  add  the  honey  and 
sugar,  and  stir  occasionally  until  they  are  dissolved.  Strain  through 
very  fine  muslin  into  small  bottles,  and  cork  them  securely. 

3568.— NOYEAU,  IMITATION  OF.  (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  French  brandy,  £  a  pint  of  boiling  milk, 
i  \  Ibs.  of  loaf  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  bitter  almonds,  |  of  an  oz.  of  stick  cinnamon, 
i  lemon. 

Method. — Remove  the  rind  of  the  lemon  as  thinly  as  possible,  put  it 
into  a  wide-necked  bottle,  add  the  sugar,  cinnamon,  almonds  blanched, 
and  the  juice  of  \  the  lemon.  Shake  occasionally  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved,  then  add  the  milk,  quite  boiling,  and  when  cold,  add  the 
brandy  and  cover  closely.  Shake  the  bottle  3  or  4  times  a  day  for  3 
weeks,  then  strain  into  small  bottles,  cork  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

3569.— ORANGE  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — i  Seville  orange,  4  cloves,  a  pinch  of  saffron,  i£  pints  of 
gin  or  rectified  spirits  of  wine,  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  \  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Stick  the  cloves  into  the  orange,  put  it  into  a  jar,  add  the 
spirit,  cover  closely  so  as  to  completely  exclude  the  air,  and  let  it 
remain  thus  for  i  month.  At  the  end  of  this  time  boil  the  sugar  and 
water  together  to  a  thick  syrup  ;  when  cool,  mix  it  with  the  gin,  etc., 
and  cover  closely  for  another  month.  When  ready,  strain  the  liquid 
into  small  bottles,  cork  securely,  and  store  for  use. 

3570.— ORANGE  LIQUEUR.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — The  peel  of  3  Seville  oranges  i\  pints  of  gin  or  rectified 
spirits  of  wine,  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  $  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Remove  the  rinds  of  the  oranges  in  fine  strips,  and  put 
them  into  a  wide-necked  bottle  or  jar,  with  the  saffron  and  gin.  Boil 
the  sugar  and  water  to  a  thick  syrup,  when  cool  add  it  to  the  contents 
of  the  bottle.  Cover  closely,  and  let  it  remain  in  a  moderately  warm 
place  for  a  month.  Then  strain  into  small  bottles,  cork  securely,  and 
store  for  use. 

3571.— RASPBERRY  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. —  i  pint  of  ripe  raspberries,  i  quart  of  brandy,  gin,  or 
rectified  spirits  of  wine,  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  \  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Put  the  raspberries  into  a  wide-necked  bottle,  pour  over 
them  the  spirit,  cover  closely,  and  let  the  liquid  stand  for  i  month, 
shaking  the  bottle  daily.  When  ready,  boil  the  sugar  and  water  to 
a  thick  syrup,  add  the  liquid  from  the  raspberries,  previously  strained 
until  quite  clear,  and  bottle  for  use. 


I5oo  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3572.— RATAFIA. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  cherry  kernels,  preferably  those  taken  from 
Morella  cherries,  i  oz.  of  apricot  or  peach  kernels,  i  bottle  of  good  brandy, 
£  a  Ib.  of  sugar-candy,  £  of  a  pint  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Pound  the  kernels  until  smooth,  moistening  them  from 
time  to  time  with  a  few  drops  of  brandy.  Put  them  with  the  remainder 
of  the  brandy  into  a  wide-necked  bottle,  cover  closely,  and  shake  2 
or  3  times  daily  for  6  weeks.  Strain  the  liquor  first  through  fine  muslin 
and  afterwards  through  filtering  paper,  add  to  it  the  sugar-candy 
finely  powdered  and  dissolved  in  cold  water,  bottle,  cork  tightly,  and 
store  for  use. 

3573.— STRAWBERRY  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — 6  Ibs.  of  ripe  strawberries,  2  Ibs.  of  sugar-candy,  good 
brandy. 

Method. — Half  fill  wide-necked  glass  bottles  with  strawberries,  put 
an  equal  portion  of  finely-crushed  sugar-candy  into  each,  and  fill  them 
with  brandy.  Cork  tightly,  allow  them  to  stand  in  a  warm  place  for 
6  weeks,  then  strain  the  liquid  into  small  bottles,  cork  securely,  and 
store  for  use. 

3574. —VANILLA  LIQUEUR. 

Ingredients. — 2  Vanilla  pods,  3  pints  of  brandy  or  gin,  i  Ib.  of  loaf 
sugar,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Break  the  pods  into  short  lengths,  put  them  into  the  spirit, 
cork  closely,  and  let  it  infuse  for  14  days.  On  the  last  day  boil  the  sugar 
and  water  to  a  thick  syrup,  strain  the  spirit  into  it,  and  when  quite  cold 
bottle  for  use. 

Cups 

3575.— BACCHUS  CUP. 

Ingredients. — £  a  bottle  of  champagne,  \  a  pint  of  sherry,  |  of  a  pint 
of  brandy,  i  liqueur  glass  of  noyeau,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
i  bottle  of  seltzer  or  soda  water,  a  few  balm  leaves,  ice. 

Method. — Put  the  champagne,  sherry,  brandy,  noyeau,  sugar  and 
balm  leaves  into  a  jug,  let  it  stand  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  a  few 
pieces  of  ice  and  the  mineral  water,  and  serve  at  once. 

3576.— BADMINTON  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  red  Burgundy,  2  bottles  of  seltzer  water, 
the  rind  of  i  orange,  the  juice  of  2  oranges,  a  few  thin  slices  of  cucumber, 
a  dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  wineglassful  of  Cura9oa, 


RECIPES    FOR   CUPS  1501 

Method. — Place  all  these  ingredients,  except  the  seltzer  water,  in  a 
large  jug  imbedded  in  ice  for  at  least  i  hour,  keeping  the  jug  covered. 
When  ready  to  serve,  strain  into  a  glass  jug,  add  a  few  fresh  slices  of 
cucumber,  and  the  seltzer  water. 

3577.— BURGUNDY  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  Burgundy,  J  a  bottle  of  port,  2  bottles  of 
soda  water,  i  liqueur  glass  of  Chartreuse,  the  juice  of  2  oranges,  the 
juice  of  i  lemon,  a  few  thin  slices  of  cucumber,  i  or  2  sprigs  of  fresh 
lemon  thyme,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  port  wine,  into  a  large 
glass  jug,  surround  it  with  rough  pieces  of  ice,  cover  closely,  and  let  it 
remain  thus  for  i  hour.  Just  before  serving  add  the  port  wine. 

3578.— CHAMPAGNE  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  champagne,  i  liqueur  glass  of  brandy,  2  bottles 
of  seltzer  or  soda  water,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  Maraschino,  a  few  fine  strips 
of  lemon  peel. 

Method. — When  the  time  permits  it  is  much  better  to  ice  the  liquor 
which  forms  the  basis  of  a  "  cooling  cup  "  than  to  reduce  the  tempera- 
ture by  adding  crushed  ice.  Place  the  champagne  and  seltzer  water 
in  a  deep  vessel,  surround  them  with  ice,  cover  them  with  a  wet  woollen 
cloth,  and  let  them  remain  for  i  hour.  When  ready  to  serve,  put  the 
strips  of  lemon  rind  into  a  large  glass  jug,  add  the  Maraschino  and 
liqueur  brandy,  pour  in  the  soda  water  and  serve  at  once.  If  liked, 
a  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar  may  be  added,  but  it  should  be  stirred  in 
gradually,  otherwise  the  wine  may  overflow. 

3579.— CHAMPAGNE  CUP,  PARISIAN. 

Ingredients. — i    bottle  of  champagne,   2   bottles    of    seltzer    \\ 
i  tablespoonful  of  Swiss  absinthe,  i  dessertspoonful  of   castor   sugar, 
a  few  thin  slices  of  cucumber,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  verbena,  when  procurable. 

Method. — Cool  the  champagne  and  seltzer  water  as  directed  in  the 
preceding  recipe.  Place  the  rest  of  the  ingredients  in  a  large  glass  jug, 
and  when  ready  to  serve  add  the  iced  champagne  and  seltzer  water. 

3580.— CLARET  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  claret,  i  wineglassful  of  sherry,  i  liqueur 
glass  of  brandy,  i  liqueur  glass  of  noyeau.  i  liqueur  «:l:iss  <-f  Maraschino, 
the  thin  rind  of  i  lemon,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  balm,  borage  or  verbena  when 
procurable,  castor  sugar  to  taste,  i  large  bottle  of  seltzer  or  soda  water. 

Method. — Put  the  l--mon  rind,  ami   i   or  2  tablespoonftU*  of 

c  jug,  cover,  and  let  it  stand  imbedded  in  ice 
tor  i   li.Mir.      Add  ;  ingredient-,  and  serve.     A 

rtf.  cucumber  peel  may  be  used  instead  of  balm,  borage  or  verbena. 


I502  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3581.— CLARET  CUP.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  claret,  i  bottle  of  soda  water,  2  glasses  of 
Cura9oa,  i  dessertspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  or  to  taste,  a  few  thin  strips 
of  lemon  rind,  a  few  thin  strips  of  cucumber  rind. 

Method. — Put  the  claret  into  a  glass  jug,  add  the  lemon  rind  and  the 
cucumber  rind,  cover,  and  let  the  jug  stand  embedded  in  ice  for  i  hour. 
Before  serving,  add  the  Cura9oa  and  the  soda  water,  and  sweeten  to 
taste. 

3582.— CIDER  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  cider,  i  bottle  of  soda  water,  i  liqueur  glass 
of  brandy,  a  few  thin  strips  of  cucumber  rind,  a  few  thin  strips  of 
lemon  rind,  a  dessertspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  a  dessertspoonful  of 
castor  sugar,  or  to  taste. 

Method. — Surround  the  cider  and  soda  water  with  rough  ice,  and  let 
them  cool  for  \  an  hour.  Put  the  brandy,  cucumber  and  lemon  rind, 
lemon- juice  and  sugar  into  a  large  jug,  add  the  iced  cider  and  soda 
water,  and  serve  at  once. 

3583.— HOCK  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  hock,  i  liqueur  glass  of  old  brandy,  \  a 
liqueur  glass  of  Curacoa  or  Benedictine,  2  bottles  of  seltzer  or  so'H 
water,  a  few  strips  of  lemon  peel,  a  little  borage. 

Method. — Stand  the  wine,  seltzer  or  soda  water  in  a  deep  vessel, 
surround  them  with  rough  ice  and  let  them  remain  for  an  hour.  Have 
the  rest  of  the  ingredients  ready,  in  a  glass  jug,  pour  in  the  wine,  add 
the  mineral  water,  and  serve  at  once. 

3584.— HOCK  CUP.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  hock,  i  bottle  of  seltzer  or  soda  water,  i 
glass  of  Curacoa,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  few  fine  strps  of 
lemon  rind  ;  a  few  fine  strips  of  cucumber  rind,  a  teaspoonful  of  castor 
sugar,  or  to  taste. 

Method. — Put  all  these  ingredients,  except  the  mineral  water,  into  a 
glass  jug,  surround  it  with  ice,  cover  closely,  and  let  it  remain  for£ 
an  hour.  Just  before  serving  add  the  mineral  water,  which  must 
previously  be  iced. 

3585.— LAGER  BEER  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  lager  beer  (Bass'  ale  may  be  substituted), 
£  of  a  pint  of  water,  i  glass  of  sherry,  the  juice  of  2  lemons  and  the  fine 
rind  of  i,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  a  few  leaves  of  fresh  mint, 
a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  crushed  ice. 


RECIPES    FOR   CUPS  1503 

Method. — Remove  the  lemon  rind  in  thin,  fine  strips,  put  them  into 
a  jug,  add  the  water,  sherry,  lemon-juice,  sugar,  mint  and  nutmeg, 
cover  and  let  the  liquid  stand  for  20  minutes.  Strain  into  a  glass  jug, 
add  a  few  pieces  of  ice  and  the  lager  beer,  then  serve. 

3586.— LIQUEUR  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  claret ;  i  pint  of  water,  I  tablespoonful  of 
Maraschino,  i  tablespoonful  of  kirsch,  i  orange  cut  in  thin  slices,  the 
juice  of  2  oranges,  the  juice  of  3  lemons,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
broken  ice. 

Method. — Strain  the  orange  and  lemon -juice  into  a  glass  jug,  and  add 
the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Break  the  ice  into  small  pieces,  and  put 
it  into  the  cup  just  before  serving. 

3587.— LOVING  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  champagne,  £  a  bottle  of  Madeira,  £  of  a  pint 
of  French  brandy,  i  £  pints  of  water,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  lemons, 
a  few  leaves  of  balm,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  borage. 

Method. — Rub  the  peel  off  one  lemon  with  some  lumps  of  sugar,  then 
remove  every  particle  of  pith,  also  the  rind  and  pith  of  the  other  lemon, 
and  slice  them  thinly.  Put  the  balm,  borage,  the  sliced  lemons  and 
all  the  sugar  into  a  jug,  add  the  water,  Madeira  and  brandy,  cover 
surround  with  ice,  and  let  the  mixture  remain  thus  for  about  i  hour, 
surround  the  champagne  with  ice,  and  add  it  to  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients  when  ready  to  serve. 

3588.— MOSELLE  CUP. 

Ingredients. —  i  bottle  of  Moselle,  2  glasses  of  Cura9oa,  i  bottle  of  seltzer 
or  soda  water,  the  juice  and  thin  rind  of  i  lemon,  a  few  thin  slices  of 
cucumber,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  or  to  taste,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Put  the  lemon  rind  and  lemon-juice,  the  sugar,  cucumber, 
Cura£oa  and  wine  into  a  jug,  let  it  stand  covered  for  15  or  20  minutes, 
then  afld  the  mineral  water  and  a  little  crushed  ice,  and  serve  at  once. 

3589.— SAUTERNE  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  bottle  of  Sauterne,  i  pint  bottle  of  Apollinaris, 
i  \\ineglassful  of  brandy,  i  wineglassful  of  Cura9oa,  the  juice  of 
i  lemon,  i  lemon  thinly  sliced,  i  orange  thinly  sliced,  2  pieces  of  cucum- 
ber rind,  a  few  small  sprigs  of  mint,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Put  all  the  above-mentioned  ingredients,  except  the  mint 
and  ice,  into  a  large  glass  jug,  surround  it  with  ice,  and  let  it  stand  for 
i  hour.  Serve  with  small  sprigs  of  mint  floating  on  the  top.  If  liked, 
a  little  castor  sugar  may  be  added,  and,  if  more  convenient,  the  cup 
may  be  cooled  by  adding  2  or  3  tablespoon fuls  of  crushed  ice,  instead 
of  surrounding  it  with  ice. 


1504  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 


3590.— WINE  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  champagne  (iced),  i  pint  of  good  claret, 
i  pint  of  Apollinaris,  i  wineglassful  of  brandy,  i  wineglassful  of  Cura9oa, 
i  orange  sliced,  i  lemon  sliced,  2  pieces  of  cucumber  rind,  green  mint,  ice. 

Method. — Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  large  glass  jug,  adding  2 
or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  crushed  ice.  If  liked,  a  little  castor  sugar 
may  be  added.  The  cup  is  served  with  small  sprigs  of  mint  floating 
on  its  surface. 

3591.— ZELTLINGER  CUP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  Zeltlinger,  i  glass  of  sherry  or  brandy,  i 
bottle  of  soda  or  seltzer  water,  3  or  4  slices  of  fresh  or  preserved  pine- 
apple cut  into  sections,  the  juice  and  thin  rind  of  i  lemon,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  castor  sugar,  or  to  taste,  ice. 

Method. — Strain  the  lemon- juice  into  a  large  glass  jug,  add  the  sugar, 
lemon-rind,  pineapple,  wine,  a  few  lumps  of  ice,  and  lastly  the  soda, 
water.  Serve  at  once. 

Summer  and  Winter  Drinks,  etc. 

3592.— BISHOP. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  port  or  sherry,  2  lemons,  2  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar, 
i  tumbler  of  water,  spice  to  taste. 

Method. — Stick  i  lemon  with  cloves  and  roast  or  bake  it,  boil  the  spice 
in  the  water,  boil  up  the  wine,  take  off  some  of  the  spirit  with  a  lighted 
paper,  add  the  water  and  the  roasted  lemon,  and  let  the  preparation 
stand  near  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Rub  the  sugar  on  the  rind  of 
the  other  lemon,  put  it  into  a  bowl,  strain,  and  add  half  the  juice  of  the 
lemon,  pour  in  the  wine  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

3593.— LEMONADE. 

Ingredients. — 5-  a  pint  of  cold  water,  the  juice  of  .1  lemon,  £  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  castor  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Strain  the  lemon-juice  into  the  water,  sweeten  to  taste, 
then  stir  in  the  carbonate  of  soda  and  drink  while  the  mixture  is  in  an 
effervescing  state. 

3594.— LEMONADE. 

Ingredients. — i  oz.  of  tartaric  acid,  4  ozs.  oi  castor  sugar,  fine  i  drachm 
of  essence  of  lemon. 

Method. — Mix  these  ingredients  well  together,  spread  them  on  a  plate, 
stir  and  turn  over  repeatedly  until  thoroughly  dry.  Divide  into  20 
equal  portions,  wrap  them  carefully  in  separate  papers,  and  store  for  use 
in  an  air-tight  tin.  Each  portion  is  sufficient  for  i  glass  of  lemonade. 


RECIPES    FOR    SUMMER    DRINKS,    ETC.         1505 

3595.— LEMONADE,  EGG. 

Ingredients. — i  egg,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful 
of  castor  sugar,  or  to  taste,  nutmeg,  cold  water. 

Method. — Break  the  egg  into  a  glass,  beat  it  slightly,  then  add  the 
lemon-juice,  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  crushed  ice  and  a  little  cold 
water.  Shake  well  until  sufficiently  cooled,  then  strain  into  another 
glass,  fill  up  with  iced  water,  sprinkle  a  little  nutmeg  on  the  top,  and 

3596.— LEMONADE,  FRUIT. 

Ingredients. — The  juice  of  i  lemon,  6  fine  strawberries  or  raspberries, 
castor  sugar  to  taste,  cold  water  ice. 

Method. — Crush  the  fruit  well,  add  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
small  or  otherwise  according  to  mon-juice,  a  littl- 

water,  and  strain  into  a  tumbler.     Add  a  little  crushed  ice,  till  up  with 
r,  and  serve. 

3597.— MAY  DRINK. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  hock  or  other  white  wine,  £  a  pint  of  v» 
tablespoonfuls  of  castor  sugar,  the  juice  and  thin  rind  of  i   1 
11   handful  of  irram    leaves,  at  s  of  woodruff, 

crushed   ice. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar,  lemon  rind  and  lemon- juice,  black  currant 
leaves  and  woodruff  into  a  jug,  add  the  water  and  wine,  and  1 

:  rounded  with  ice  for  at  least  £  an  hour.     Strain  into  a 
jug.  add  a  few  sprigs  of  woodruff.  th« 

3598.— MULLED  ALE. 

Ingredients,      t  quart  of  good  ale,  i  glass  of  rum  or  brandy,  i  i 

i  castor  sugar,  a  pinch  of  ground  cloves,  a  pinch  of  grated 
nutmeg,  a  good  pinch  of  ground  gin;  < 

Method. — Put  the  ale,  sugar,  cloves,  nutmeg,  and  ginger  into  an  ale 

warm-  -id  bring  nearly   to  boiling  point.      Add    the 

.  and  more  sugar  and  flavouring  if  r.  once. 

3599.— MULLED  CLARET. 

Ingredient. —  i  pint  of  claret,  |  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  sugar,  nutmeg 

iimamon 
Method. — Heat  th  boiling  point,  add  the  b 

'.r,  nutin-  .  ,,t.      An  . 

of  wine  may  be  mulled,  but  port 

for  the  purp- 

3C 


1506  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3600.— NEGUS. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  port  wine,  \  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  2  or  3 
thin  slices  of  lemon,  sugar  and  nutmeg  to  taste. 

Method. — Heat  the  wine  in  a  stewpan,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil. 
Put  the  slices  of  lemon,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  and  4  or  5  lumps  of  sugar 
into  a  jug,  pour  in  the  boiling  water,  stir  gently  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved,  then  add  the  hot  wine  and  serve  at  once. 

3601.— ORANGEADE. 

Ingredients. — The  juice  of  15  oranges,  the  rind  of  3  oranges,  2  quarts 
of  water,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Remove  the  peel  of  3  oranges  as  thinly  as  possible,  add  it 
and  the  sugar  to  i  pint  of  water,  then  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes. 
Strain  the  orange-juice  into  a  glass  jug,  and  add  the  remaining  3  pints 
of  water.  As  soon  as  the  syrup  is  quite  cold  strain  it  into  the  jug, 
add  a  handful  of  crushed  ice,  and  serve  at  once. 

3602.  —PINEAPPLE  SHERBET. 

Ingredients. — i  pineapple,  either  fresh  or  preserved,  2  quarts  of 
water,  the  juice  of  4  lemons,  ice,  sugar  to  taste. 

Method. — Cut  the  pineapple  into  slices,  and  chop  it  coarsely.  Pour 
over  it  the  cold  water,  add  the  lemon-juice,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  strain 
into  a  large  jug.  Just  before  serving  add  a  few  pieces  of  ice. 

3603.— PUNCH. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  brandy,  \  a  pint  of  rum,  i  pint  of  boiling 
water,  2  or  3  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  i  large  lemon,  a  pinch  of  ground  cinna- 
mon, a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg. 

Method. — Remove  the  rind  of  the  lemon  by  rubbing  it  with  some 
of  the  sugar.  Put  the  whole  of  the  sugar,  the  cinnamon,  cloves,  brandy, 
rum  and  boiling  water  into  a  stewpan,  heat  gently  by  the  side  of  the 
fire,  but  do  not  let  it  approach  boiling  point.  Strain  the  lemon-juice 
into  a  punch  bowl,  add  the  hot  liquid,  and  serve  at  once. 

PUNCH  is  a  beverage  made  of  various  spirituous  liquors  or  wine,  hpt  water,  the  acid  juice  of  fruits, 
and  sugar.  It  is  more  intoxicating  in  its  effects  than  other  alcoholic  beverages,  especially  so  when 
composed,  as  is  usually  the  case,  of  several  alcoholic  liquids.  Moreover,  the  strength  of  the  spirit  being 
partially  disguised  by  the  acid,  sugar  and  flavouring  ingredients,  not  only  makes  this  beverage  more 
palatable  than  it  would  otherwise  be,  but  it  probably  causes  the  partakers  thereof  to  unconsciously 
imbibe  more  alcohol  than  would  be  agreeable  to  them  in  another  form.  Punch  was  almost  universally 
drunk  among  the  middle  classes  until  the  latter  half  of  the  nineteenth  century,  but  it  has  now  almost 
disappeared.  There  are  many  different  varieties  ;  in  the  composition  of  "  Regent's  Punch,"  cham- 
pagne, brandy  and  veritable  Martinique  are  required;  "Norfolk  Punch"  requires  Seville  oranges; 
"  Milk  Punch  "  may  be  extemporised  by  adding  a  little  hot  milk  to  lemonade,  and  then  straining  it 
through  a  jelly-bag.  Then  there  are  "  Wine  Punch,"  "  Tea  Punch,"  and  "  French  Punch,"  made 
with  lemons,  spirits,  tea  and  wine  in  fantastic  proportions.  But  of  all  the  compounds  of  these 
materials,  perhaps  for  a  summer  drink,  the  North- American  "  mint  julep  "  is  the  most  inviting.  Captain 
Marryat  gives  the  following  recipe  for  its  preparation  :  "  Put  into  a  tumbler  about  a  dozen  sprigs  of  the 
tender  shoots  of  mint ;  upon  them  put  a  spoonful  of  white  sugar,  and  equal  proportions  of  peach  and 
common  brandy,  so  as  to  fill  up  one-third,  or,  perhaps,  a  little  less  ;  then  take  rasped  or  pounded  ice, 
and  fill  up  the  tumbler.  Epicures  rub  the  lips  of  the  tumbler  with  a  piece  of  fresh  pineapple,  and  the 
tumbler  itself  is  very  often  encrusted  outside  with  stalactites  of  ice.  As  the  ice  melts,  you  drink." 
The  Virginians,  says  Captain  Marryat,  claim  the  merit  of  having  invented  this  superb  compound,  but, 
from  a  passage  in  the  Comus  of  Milton,  he  claims  it  for  his  own  country. 


RECIPES    FOR    SUMMER    DRINKS,    ETC         1507 

3604.— PUNCH.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  very  old  ale,  i  pint  of  boiling  water,  £  of  a  pint 
of  rum,  ^  of  a  pint  of  whisky,  }  of  a  pint  of  gin,  i  lemon  thinly  sliced, 
sugar  to  taste,  a  pinch  of  ground  cinnamon,  a  pinch  of  ground  cloves, 
a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg. 

Method. — Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  large  stewpan,  and  bring 
nearly  to  boiling  point.  Strain  into  a  punch  bowl,  add  a  few  fresh  thin 
slices  of  lemon,  and  serve. 

3605.— PUNCH,  COLD. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  rum,  2  small  glasses  of  Curacoa,  i  bottle  of 
white  wine,  £  a  Ib.  of  powdered  sugar,  i  large  lemon,  \  a  pint  of  \ 
ice. 

Method. — Put  the  sugar  and  lemon-rind  into  a  bowl  with  the  water  ; 
when  dissolved  add  the  spirits,  the  wine  and  the  juice  of  the  lemon. 
Break  some  ice  into  the  bowl  before  serving. 

3606.— SHANDY  GAFF. 

Ingredients.     I -tju.il  quantities  of  good  ale  and  ginger  beer,  with  a 
ot  liqueur  if  h'. 

Method. — Empty  the  bottles  into  a  jug  in  which  some  lump* 
>cen  broken,  add  the  liqueur  and  .en  quite  cold. 

3607.     SHERRY  COBBLER. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  sherry,  i  bottle  of  soda  water,  i  glass  of 
Cura<;oa.  i  t ablespoonf ul  of  castor  sugar,  crushed  i 

Method. — Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  sherry,  and  add  the  liqueui  .uul 
soda.  Put  the  preparation  into  tun-,  to  each  add  a  few  small 

pieces  of  ice,  and  serve.  Beverages  of  this  description  are  usually 
drunk  through  straws,  but  it  a  matter  nl "taste. 

3608.— SLOE  GIN. 

Ingredients. — Sloes,  gin,  barley  sugar,  no\  <  ssence  of  almond  <. 

Method.  Half  fill  clean,  dry  wine  bottles  with  the  fruit.  Add  to 
of  crushed  barley  sugar,  a  little  noyrau.  or  2  or  \  drops  of 
.ilmnnds.  Fill  the  bottle*  with  good 

them  securely,  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  A  moderat-  place 

At  the  end  of  tin  r.iin  the  liqueur  through  line 

mu^liu  or  filtering  paper  until  quite  <  Icar.  then  l>ottlo  it.  co; 
and  store  for  use. 


1508  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

3609.— SLOE  GIN.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — Sloes,  good  unsweetened  gin,  loaf  sugar. 

Method. — Fill  a  wide-necked  bottle  with  sloes,  pour  over  them  as 
much  gin  as  the  bottle  will  hold,  then  cork  securely,  and  allow  the 
ingredients  to  stand  for  10  days.  Strain  off  the  liquid,  remove  the 
fruit,  replace  with  fresh  sloes,  and  pour  on  the  gin,  adding  more  spirit 
if  necessary.  Let  it  stand  for  10  days  longer,  then  strain,  add  from 
4  to  6  ozs.  of  sugar  to  each  pint  of  liqueur,  and  bottle  for  use. 

3610.— SODA  WATER. 

Soda  Water  as  known  in  every-day  life  is  a  misnomer,  as  the  fluid 
now  contains  really  no  soda,  only  carbonic  acid  gas.  For  medicinal 
purposes,  however,  the  chemist  still  manufactures  a  water  containing 
the  amount  of  soda  prescribed  by  the  official  Pharmacopoeia  Britannica. 
But  for  ordinary  drinking  purposes  a  pure  water  is  made  to  absorb 
carbonic  acid  gas,  which  gives  it  effervescence,  a  pleasantly  piquant 
flavour,  and  a  slightly  laxative  effect.  Various  means  are  adopted 
to  permeate  the  water  with  the  gas.  For  domestic  purposes  the  gaso- 
gene  is  generally  used.  This  takes  the  form  of  two  glass  globes  covered 
with  netting  and  connected  by  a  metal  neck,  screwing  in  two  parts, 
and  provided  with  a  tap.  The  lower  globe  is  partly  filled  with  chemi- 
cals, usually  tartaric  acid  and  bicarbonate,  while  the  upper  is  filled 
with  water.  The  water  drips  through  a  pipe  into  the  lower  globe, 
and  on  coming  into  contact  with  the  chemicals,  carbonic  acid  gas  is 
gradually  formed,  and  this  is  steadily  taken  up  by  the  water  as  it  falls 
slowly  downwards.  This  water  is  removed  by  syphon  action  by  means 
of  the  tap.  Of  recent  years  several  other  aerating  devices  have  been 
manufactured  for  domestic  purposes,  and  in  which  carbonic  acid  is 
used  in  a  gaseous  form.  Another  development  is  the  provision  of 
carbonic  acid  in  liquid  form,  imprisoned  in  metallic  capsules  ;  this 
liquid  carbonic  acid  is  passed  into  a  bottle  of  water,  wine,  or  other  fluid 
through  a  patent  tap,  and  the  pressure  being  reduced  is  quickly  con- 
verted into  gas,  aerating  the  fluid.  Commercially,  soda  water  is  manu- 
factured by  admitting  carbonic  acid  gas  into  a  copper  globe,  into  which 
water  is  run,  and  the  whole  thoroughly  agitated.  If  desired,  a  dose  of 
soda  or  other  salts,  such  as  seltzer,  lithia,  seidlitz,  etc.,  may  be  added  ; 
or,  on  drawing  off  the  soda  water  from  the  agitator,  lemonade  or 
syrups  can  be  mixed  with  it.  Syrups  consist  of  fairly  thick  boiled 
sugar  and  water,  to  which  fruit  juice  or  essence  is  added.  A  good 
recipe  for  lemonade  is  :  sugar,  14  Ibs.  ;  tartaric  acid,  i  oz.  ;  citric  acid, 
i£  ozs.  ;  essence  of  lemon,  2  drachms,  mixed  with  i  gallon  of  water 
aerated  with  carbonic  acid  gas.  This  is  sufficient  for  about  12  dozen 
bottles.  Carbonic  acid  gas  is  supplied  in  heavy  steel  tubes,  which  are 
fitted  with  valve  taps,  to  enable  the  gas  to  be  admitted  to  any  form 
of  aerating  machine. 


RECIPES   FOR   SUMMER   DRINKS,    ETC.         1509 
3611.— SUMMER  BEVERAGE. 

Ingredients. — Tea,  lemon,  sugar,  liqueur,  ice. 

Method. — Make  some  moderately-strong  tea,  let  it  stand  for  5  minutes, 
then  strain  it  into  a  jug.  Sweeten  to  taste,  add  a  lemon  thinly  sliced, 
cover,  and  let  it  stand  until  quite  cold.  Just  before  serving  add  a 
glass  of  any  kind  of  liqueur,  and  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of  crushed 
ice. 

3612.— WHISKY  PUNCH. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  Scotch  whisky,  i  quart  of  boiling  water, 
£  a  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  the  juice  and  finely  pared  rinds  of  3  lemons. 

Method. — Pour  the  boiling  water  over  the  sugar,  lemon  rinds  and  juice, 
let  it  remain  until  cold,  then  strain  into  a  punch  bowl.  Add  the  whisky, 
place  the  bowl  in  a  large  vessel,  surround  it  with  ice,  cover,  and  let  it 
stand  thus  for  at  least  i  hour  before  serving. 

3613.— CURRANT  WATER. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  red  currants,  £  a  Ib.  of  raspberries,  i  Ib.  of  castor 
sugar,  2\  pints  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks,  crush  the  fruit  well  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
then  put  it  into  a  preserving  pan  with  £  a  pint  of  water,  and  \  the 
sugar.  Stir  occasionally  until  it  reaches  boiling  point,  then  strain 
through  muslin  or  a  fine  hair  sieve.  Dissolve  the  rest  of  the  sugar  in  a 
little  cold  water,  boil  to  a  syrup,  add  it  to  the  fruit  syrup,  and  stir  in 
the  remainder  of  the  water.  Allow  it  to  stand  until  quite  cold,  then 
serve. 

3614.— PINEAPPLE  WATER. 

Ingredients. — i  pineapple,  either  fresh  or  preserved,  i  Ib.  of  loaf 
sugar,  3  pints  of  water,  the  juice  of  2  lemons. 

Method. — Slice  the  pineapple,  cut  it  into  small  dice,  or  chop  it  coarsely. 
Boil  the  sugar  and  i  pint  of  water  to  a  syrup,  pour  it  over  the  prepared 
pineapple,  strain  into  it  the  lemon-juice,  and  cover  closely.  When  quite 
cold,  add  the  remaining  2  pints  of  water,  and  serve. 

3615.— STRAWBERRY  WATER. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  ripe  strawberries,  3  pints  of  cold  water,  £  a  Ib. 
of  castor  sugar,  the  juice  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks,  crush  the  fruit  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
sprinkle  over  the  sugar,  and  let  it  stand  for  3  or  4  hours.  Pass  the  pulp 
through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  add  to  it  the  lemon-juice  and  water,  let  it 
stand  2  or  3  hours,  stirring  frequently,  then  strain  and  use. 


I5io  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

American  Drinks 

Americans,  although  great  consumers  of  iced  water  at  meals,  are  very 
fond  of  composite  drinks,  mixed  immediately  before  they  are  taken. 
Broadly  speaking,  these  drinks  are  of  two  kinds  :  ( i )  the  cocktails,  or 
alcoholic  fancy  beverages,  and  (2)  the  soda  drinks,  flavoured  with  fruit 
syrups  or  semi-medicinal  decoctions.  The  first  class  are  chiefly  remark- 
able for  the  many  ingredients  which  enter  into  their  composition, 
the  use  of  various  fresh  fruits  in  addition  to  lemons  and  oranges,  and 
the  extraordinary  names  bestowed  on  many  of  these  beverages.  Recipes 
for  a  few  of  the  most  popular,  and  apparently  permanent,  drinks,  are 
given.  The  soda  drinks  consist  of  fruit  syrups  (such  as  the  French 
syrups  or  our  raspberry  vinegar),  which  are  diluted  with  iced  soda 
water.  Sometimes  instead  of  sweet  syrups,  druggists'  decoctions 
containing  phosphates  or  extracts  of  medicinal  herbs  are  used.  Syrups, 
if  properly  made,  strongly  flavoured,  and  added  sparingly  to  plain 
aerated  water  (so  that  it  should  not  be  too  sweet),  make  palatable, 
cooling,  and  thirst-quenching  beverages.  Syrups  may  be  easily  bought, 
and  now  manufacturers  place  on  the  market  a  great  number  of  essences 
which  only  require  diluting  with  soda  water. 

3616.— BRAIN  DUSTER. 

Ingredients. — £  a  wineglassful  of  vermouth,  \  a  wineglassful  of  ab- 
sinthe, £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  crushed  ice,  a  little  seltzer. 

Method. — Put  the  vermouth,  absinthe  and  sugar  into  a  glass,  add 
a  few  small  pieces  of  ice,  and  shake  well.  Strain  into  a  small  glass,, 
add  just  a  little  seltzer  water,  and  serve. 

3617.— BRANDY  MINT  JULEP. 

Ingredients. — i  wineglassful  of  brandy,  i  lump  of  sugar,  i  or  2  small 
sprigs  of  fresh  mint,  i  thin  slice  of  orange,  i  thin  slice  of  pineapple, 
crushed  ice. 

Method. — Put  the  lump  of  sugar  into  a  glass  and  dissolve  it  in  a  few 
drops  of  cold  water.  Add  the  brandy,  mint,  and  a  little  crushed  ice. 
On  the  top  place  a  small  piece  of  orange  and  a  small  piece  of  pineapple, 
and  serve. 

Note. — Gin  or  whisky  mint  julep  may  be  made  by  substituting  these  spirits 
for  the  brandy. 

3618.— GIN  COCKTAIL. 

Ingredients.-^ i  wineglassful  of  good  unsweetened  gin,  10  drops  of 
rock  candy  syrup,  10  drops  of  orange  bitters,  a  small  piece  of  lemon- 
peel,  crushed  ice. 


RECIPES    EOR    AMERICAN    DRINKS  1511 

Method. — Half  fill  a  tumbler  with  small  pieces  of  ice,  pour  over  it 
the  gin,  add  the  syrup  and  bitters,  then  cover  and  shake  well.  Strain 
into  a  small  glass,  place  a  small  piece  of  lemon  peel  on  the  top,  and 
serve. 

3619.— GIN  RICKEY. 

Ingredients. — i  wineglassful  of  gin,  I  dessertspoonful  of  lemon  or 
lime-juice,  seltzer  water,  ice. 

Method. — Place  a  small  block  of  ice  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  cham- 
pagne glass,  strain  over  it  the  lemon-juice,  add  the  gin,  fill  up  with 
seltzer  water,  and  serve. 

. — Any  other  spirit  may  be  used  instead  of  gin,  and  would,  of  conr-i-. 
give  its  name  to  the  compound. 

3620.— MANHATTAN. 

Ingredients. — \  a  wineglassful  of  vermouth,  V  a  wineglassful  of  whisky, 
30  drops  of  green  syrup,  10  drops  of  Angostura  bitters,  6  drops  of 
Curacoa,  a  little  shaved  ice,  i  small  strip  of  lemon-peel. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  except  the  lemon-rind  into  a  large 
tumbler,  cover  the  top  closely,  shake  well,  and  strain  into  a  wineglass, 
Place  the  strip  of  lemon-peel  on  the  top,  and  serve. 

3621.— MARTINI  COCKTAIL. 

Ingredients. — \  a  wineglassful  of  good  unsweetened  gin,  \  a  wine- 
glassful  of  Italian  vermouth,  6  drops  of  rock  candy  syrup,  12  drops  of 
orange  bitters,  i  small  piece  of  lemon-peel,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Half  fill  a  tumbler  with  crushed  ice,  pour  over  it  all  the 
liquids,  shake  well,  then  strain  into  a  glass,  and  serve  with  a  small 
piece  of  lemon-peel  floating  on  the  surface. 

3622.— MILK  SHAKE. 

Ingredients. — New  milk,  i  egg,  castor  sugar  to  taste,  ice,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Break  the  egg  into  a  large  glass,  beat  it  slightly,  add  i 
tablespoonful  of  crushed  ice,  sugar  to  taste,  and  rather  more  than  £  of  a 
pint  of  milk.  Shake  well,  then  strain  into  a  smaller  glass,  sprinkle  a 
little  nutmeg  on  the  top,  and  serve. 

3623.— PINEAPPLE  JULEP. 

Ingredients. — i  pineapple,  either  fresh  or  preserved,  i  bottle  of  spark- 
ling Moselle,  i  gill  of  gin,  i  gill  of  raspberry  syrup,  \  a  gill  of  Maras- 
chino, the  juice  of  2  oranges,  i  Ib.  of  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Slice  the  pineapple  rather  thinly,  and  divide  each  slice  into 
8  sections.  Put  all  the  liquids  into  a  glass  jug  or  bowl,  add  the  ice  and 
prf.-nared  pineapple,  and  serve. 


I5i2  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3624.— SARATOGA. 

Ingredients. — i  wineglass  of  old  brandy,  20  drops  of  pine-apple  syrup, 
20  drops  of  Maraschino,  12  drops  of  Angostura  bitters,  £  a  glass  of 
champagne,  2  or  3  ripe  strawberries,  shaved  ice,  lemon-peel. 

Method. — Nearly  fill  a  large  tumbler  with  shaved  ice,  and  pour  all  the 
liquids,  except  the  champagne,  over  it.  Shake  well,  strain  into  another 
tumbler  in  which  the  strawberries  and  lemon-peel  have  been  placed, 
add  the  champagne,  and  serve  at  once. 

3625.— SHERRY  COBBLER. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  pint  of  sherry,  i  teaspoonful  of  orange- juice,  i 
teaspoonful  of  fine  white  sugar,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Half  fill  a  large  tumbler  with  ice,  pour  over  it  the  sherry 
and  orange-juice,  cover,  and  shake  well.  Strain  into  another  tumbler 
containing  the  sugar,  stir  well,  and  serve  with  straws. 

3626.— SHERRY  EGG  FLIP. 

Ingredients. — i  glass  of  sherry,  i  egg,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
or  to  taste,  nutmeg,  crushed  i:e. 

Method. — Beat  the  egg  well,  add  the  sugar,  sherry,  and  a  little  crushed 
ice,  shake  well  until  sufficiently  cooled,  then  strain  into  a  small  glass, 
and  serve. 

Note. — Port  wine  or  any  spirit  may  replace  the  sherry,  and  the  liquor  used 
would,  of  course,  give  its  name  to  the  "  flip." 

3627.— SILVER  DREAM. 

Ingredients. — i  wineglassful  of  gin,  the  white  of  i  egg,  the  juice  of 
£  a  lemon,  i  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  crushed  ice,  a  little  seltzer  water. 

Method. — Beat  the  white  of  egg  well,  add  to  it  the  gin,  lemon-juice 
sugar,  and  i  tablespoonful  of  crushed  ice.  Shake  well  until  sufficiently 
cooled,  then  strain  into  a  deep  champagne  glass,  fill  up  with  seltzer 
water,  and  serve. 

3628.— SILVER  FIZZ. 

Ingredients. — i  wineglass  of  gin,  the  juice  of  \  a  lemon,  the  white  of 
i  egg,  i  teaspoonful  of  icing  sugar,  a  pinch  of  carbonate  of  soda,  pounded 
ice. 

Method. — Fill  a  tumbler  3  parts  full  with  pounded  ice,  pour  over 
this  the  gin  and  lemon- juice,  then  add  the  white  of  egg  beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth.  Shake  well,  then  strain  into  another  tumbler  containing  the 
icing  sugar,  and  carbonate  of  soda,  and  serve  at  once. 


RECIPES    FOR    AMERICAN  DRINKS  1513 

3629.— SILVER  SOUR. 

Ingredients. —  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  I  wineglassful  of 
unsweetened  gin,  the  white  of  i  egg,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
crushed  ice. 

Method. — Put  the  white  of  an  egg  into  a  Jumbler,  beat  it  slightly, 
then  add  the  lemon-juice,  gin,  sugar  and  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of 
crushed  ice.  Cover  and  shake  well  until  sufficiently  cooled,  then 
strain  into  a  small  glass,  and  serve. 

3630.     SLOE  GIN  COCKTAIL. 

Ingredients. — £  a  wineglassful  of  sloe  gin,  £  a  wineglassful  of  good 
unsweetened  gin,  10  drops  of  orange  bitters,  a  small  piece  of  lemon-peel, 
crushed  ice. 

Method. — Half  fill  a  tumbler  with  broken  ice,  pour  over  it  the  sloe 
gin,  gin  and  bitters,  cover  the  top  of  the  glass,  and  shake  it  well.  When 
sufficiently  cooled  strain  it  into  a  small  glass,  and  serve  with  a  small 
piece  of  lemon-peel  floating  on  the  top. 

3631.— SNOW  BALL. 

Ingredients. — i  bottle  of  ginger  ale,  i  wineglassful  of  brandy,  i  egg, 
i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Break  the  egg  into  a  glass,  beat  it  well,  then  add  the  brandy 
and  sugar,  and  strain  into  a  large  glass.  Add  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  crushed 
ice  and  the  ginger  ale,  stir  well,  and  serve. 

3632.— STRAWBERRY  FIZZ. 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  fine  strawberries,  3  slices  of  lemon,  i  teaspoonful 
of  castor  sugar,  i  wineglassful  of  unsweetened  gin,  crushed  ice,  Johannis 
or  other  mineral  water. 

Method. — Mix  together  and  crush  well  the  strawberries,  lemon  and 
sugar,  add  the  gin  and  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of  broken  ice,  shake  until 
sufficiently  cooled,  then  strain  into  a  champagne  glass.  Fill  the  glass 
with  mineral  water,  and  serve  at  once. 

3633.— SUNRISE. 

Ingredients. — f  of  a  wineglass  of  sherry,  £  of  a  wineglass  t>f  brandy, 
30  drops  of  vanilla  syrup,  10  drops  of  Angostura  bitters,  pounded  ice. 
a  small  piece  of  lemon- peel. 

Method. — Half  fill  a  tumbler  with  pounded  ice,  pour  over  it  all  the 
liquids,  and  shake  well.  Strain  into  another  tumbler,  add  the  lemon- 
peel,  and  serve- 


I5i4  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3634.— WHISKY  COCKTAIL. 

Ingredients. — i  wineglassful  of  whisky,  1 5  drops  of  rock  candy  syrup, 
10  drops  of  Angostura  bitters,  a  small  piece  of  lemon-peel,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Half  fill  a  tumbler  with  crushed  ice,  pour  over  it  the  whisky, 
syrup  and  bitters,  cover  and  shake  well,  then  strain  into  a  small  glass. 
Place  a  very  small  piece  of  lemon-peel  on  the  top,  and  serve. 

Note. — Brandy  cocktail  may  be  made  by  substituting  a  wineglassful  of  good 
French  brandy  for  the  whisky. 

3635.— WHISKY  PUNCH. 

Ingredients. — I  wineglassful  of  whisky,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  thin  slice  of  orange,  i  thin  small 
piece  of  pineapple,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Put  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of  crushed  ice  into  a  glass, 
pour  over  k  the  whisky  and  lemon-juice,  add  the  sugar,  and  shake 
well  until  sufficiently  cooled.  Strain  into  a  small  glass,  and  serve  with 
the  orange  and  pineapple  floating  on  the  surface. 

3636.— WHISKY  SOUR. 

Ingredients. — i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
rock,  candy  syrup,  i  wineglassful  of  whisky,  i  thin  slice  of  orange,  i  thin 
small  piece  of  pineapple,  crushed  ice. 

Method. — Strain  the  lemon- juice  into  a  tumbler,  add  the  syrup,  whisky, 
and  a  heaped  tablespoonful  of  crushed  ice,  and  shake  well.  Strain 
into  a  small  glass,  and  serve  with  the  orange  and  pineapple  floating 
on  the  top. 

Note.. — Brandy  or  any  other  spirit  may  be  substituted  for  the  whisky,  the 
name  being  changed  accordingly. 

3637.— YANKEE  INVIGORATOR. 

Ingredients. — %  of  a  pint  of  strong,  clear,  cold  coffee,  |  a  glass  of  good 
port  wine,  i  liqueur  glass  of  old  brandy,  i  egg,  sugar  to  taste,  ice. 

Method. — Break  the  egg  into  a  large  glass,  beat  it  well,  then  add  the 
coffee,  wine  and  brandy,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Put  in  a  heaped  table- 
spoonful  of  crushed  ice,  shake  well,  then  strain  into  a  smaller  glass, 
and  serve. 


BEVERAGES, 


Moet  &  Chandon's  White  Drv  Sparkling  Sillery,  Heidsieck  &  Co.'s  Dry  Monopole,  Heidsieck 
&  Co.'s  Monopole,  Deutz  &  Geldermann's  Gold  Lack  Extra  Quality,  Kgidio  Vitali,  Sell/. 

,  Royal  Port,  Chateau  Lafite,  Johannisberger,  Berncastl<  \  :>lese, 

Chambortin,  Kmnrnrl,  Emu  Brand  Burgundy,  Kummel,  Johannisberger,  Vitali's  Chianti,  Bern- 

r  Doctor  Auslese,  Absinthe,  I-'aliriqut-  Chartreuse,  Ginger  Brandy,  Dry  Curacoa,  Chautcau 

I.  iiit--,  Emu  Brand  Cabernet,  Burgundy,  Californian  Claret,  Marasquin. 

I.,;  3C* 


EARTHENWARE    COOKING    UTENSILS. 


Green  Milk  Boiler,  Milk  Boiler,  Maraboat,  Coffee  Jug,  Coffee  Pot,  Sauces  Pan,  Cafetiere, 
Covered  Pipkin,  Red  Marmite,  Red  Marmite,  Sauce  Pan  and  Cover,  Egg  Poacher,  Pie  Dish  and 
Cover,  Entree  Dish  and  Cover,  Pie  Dish  and  Cover,  Breakfast  Dish,  Pie  Dish  and  Cover,  Egg 
Poacher,  Egg  Poacher,  Frying  Pan,  Egg  Poacher,  Eared  Dish,  Ramakin  Case,  Quail  Case,  Souffl6 
Dish,  Hot  Pot,  Pie  Dish,  Shell,  Radish  Shell,  Eared  Dish. 

1 08 


CHAFING  DISH  AND 
CASSEROLE  COOKERY 

CHAPTER  L 
The  Chafing  Dish. 

The  Chafing  Dish,  which  exemplifies  the  earliest  known  method  of 
cooking,  has  lately  become  very  popular  for  cooking  supper  dishes, 
for  use  in  the  sick  room,  and  amongst  bachelors  and  Bohemians.  It 
is  a  portable  utensil,  costing  from  /i  to  £3,  is  usually  made  of  silver 
or  electro-plated  metal,  and  is  placed  upon  and  used  at  the  table  at 
which  the  meal  is  to  be  served.  Food  can  be  either  cooked,  re-heated, 
or  kept  hot  in  it,  and  one  of  the  chief  advantages  of  the  Chafing  Dish 
is  that  the  meal  is  served  quite  hot  immediately  the  cooking  is  finished. 
The  Chafing  Dish  is  really  a  species  of  bain  marie  or  double  boiler, 
but  the  whole  process  of  cooking  may  be  performed  in  it  without  the 
aid  of  any  other  utensil  or  applian 

A  Chafing  Dish  is  composed  of  four  parts  :  the  spirit  lamp  ;  the 
frame  or  stand  in  which  the  lamp  is  set,  and  on  top  of  which  the 
Chafing  pan  rests  ;  the  hot  water  pan,  which  is  provided  with  two 
handles,  and  serves  the  same  purpose  as  the  lower  part  of  the  double 
boiler  ;  and  the  blazer  or  pan  in  which  the  food  is  cooked. 

The  lamp  is  the  most  important  part,  and  is  furnished  with  either 
a  cotton  or  an  asbestos  wick.  When  the  wick  is  of  cotton,  it  is 
regulated  in  the  same  manner  as  an  ordinary  lamp  ;  but  when  of 
asbestos,  the  lamp  is  filled  with  porous  stone,  and  covered  with  wire 
netting,  like  the  old-fashioned  spirit  lamp,  and  the  flame  is  regulated 
by  a  couple  of  slides  which  cover  the  netting  and  are  made  to  shut 
off  and  let  on  the  flame  at  will.  Spirit  is  ihe  fuel  commonly  used, 
but  only  the  very  best  should  be  purchased,  as  the  cheaper  kinds  are 
often  very  troublesome,  and  sometimes  dangerous.  The  lamp  holds 
about  two  gills  of  spirit,  and  that  quantity  will  burn  for  about  hall 
an  hour. 

The  Chafing  Dish  should  always  rest  upon  a  metal  tray,  for  a  slight 
draught  may  cause  the  flame  to  flare  outwards  and  soil,  or  even  set 
fire,  to  the  table-cloth. 

1616 


I5i6  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

All  food  cooked  in  the  Chafing  Dish  has,  of  course,  to  be  pre- 
pared in  the  same  manner  as  if  it  were  to  be  cooked  at  the  kitchen 
range,  and  though  many  hostesses  like  to  show  their  deftness  in  the 
preparation  of  the  food,  the  utensils  and  measures  that  are  frequently 
necessary  for  that  purpose  would  so  crowd  a  supper  table  that  the 
materials  are  best  brought  to  hand  ready  for  cooking,  i.e.  the  lamp 
filled,  eggs  already  beaten,  oysters  washed  and  drained,  butter 
measured  out,  etc. 

Cooking  by  the  aid  of  the  hot-water  pan  is  the  distinctive  feature 
of  Chafing  Dish  Cookery,  and  dishes  like  Creams,  Sauces,  and  Rare- 
bits, that  need  slow  cooking,  always  require  the  use  of  this  pan. 
Frying  and  sauteing  can,  of  course,  be  accomplished  in  the  blazer  of 
the  Chafing  Dish  without  the  aid  of  the  hot  water  pan  ;  but  those 
methods  of  cooking  are  obviously  not  adaptable  to  the  dining-room 
where  the  Chafing  Dish  is  mostly  used. 

The  Casserole. 

Casserole  Cookery  is  the  most  wholesome  of  all  methods  of  cooking. 
The  word  "  Casserole  "  is  the  French  name  for  "  stew  pan,"  but  en 
casserole  is  now  applied  to  all  styles  of  cooking  performed  in  stone 
or  fireproof  earthenware  vessels,  and  implies  that  the  food  is  served 
at  the  table  in  the  vessel  in  which  it  has  been  cooked,  a  method  that, 
of  course,  ensures  the  meal  being  served  quite  hot.  All  styles  of 
cooking,  and  especially  brazing,  stewing,  and  boiling  may  be  accom- 
plished in  casserole  pots,  and  differently  shaped  vessels  are  sold  for 
each  purpose.  Fireproof  casseroles  made  of  brown  earthenware  are 
the  best,  but  there  are  many  varieties  of  make.  Some  are  of  buff 
earthenware,  others  are  lined  with  white  enamel. 

The  Casserole  possesses  many  advantages  over  the  ordinary  iron 
and  copper  cooking  utensils,  for  the  pots  always  look  clean  ;  they 
will  impart  no  disagreeable  flavour  to  the  most  delicate  foods  ;  they 
will  not  rust  or  tarnish,  and  if  properly  kept  will  not  stain  ;  they 
cook  the  food  evenly  and  slowly,  and  consequently  less  fuel  is  re- 
quired and  the  contents  are  not  liable  to  burn.  Moreover,  they  are 
inexpensive,  and  with  careful  management  will  prove  cheaper  than 
metal  pots 

Chafing  Dish  Cookery 

3638.— BROILED  OYSTERS.     (Fr.— Huitres  f rites.) 

Ingredients. — I  dozen  large  oysters,  finely  crushed  shredded  wheat 
biscuits,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  oiled  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  lemons. 

Method. — Remove  the  beards  from  the  oysters,  cut  them  in  halves, 
wipe  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  dip  them  in  oiled  butter. 


CHAFING   DISH   AND    CASSEROLE    COOKERY    1517 

Drain  again,  and  roll  them  in  the  shredded  wheat  biscuits,  finely 
crushed.  Heat  up  the  butter  in  the  chafing  dish,  when  quite  hot 
drop  in  the  crumbed  oysters,  cook  and  serve  with  quarters  of  lemon. 

Time. — 5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2S.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  persons. 
Seasonable,  September  to  April. 

3639.— BUTTERED    EGGS.         (Fr.— Oeufs    brouilles 
au  beurre.) 

Ingredients. — 6  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  or  cream,  i£  ozs.  of 
butter,  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Beat  up  the  eggs  and  add  the  milk  or  cream,  season  to 
taste.  Melt  the  butter  in  the  chafing  dish,  and,  when  hot,  pour  in 
the  eggs  and  stir  quickly  until  the  eggs  commence  to  set.  Have  some 
pieces  of  toast  made,  butter  them,  and  place  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pile 
the  mixture  upon  it,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 5  or  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.6d.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3640.— CREAMED  LOBSTER.         (Fr.— Homard  a  la 
Creme.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  boiled  lobster,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lemon  juice, 
cream,  brown  bread. 

Method. — Pick  the  meat  from  the  claws  and  body  of  the  lobster,  and 
chop  it  rather  small.  Melt  the  butter  in  the  chafing  dish,  stir  in  the 
flour,  cook  a  little  without  browning,  then  moisten  with  the  milk,  and 
boil  up  whilst  stirring.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg.  Put 
in  the  lobster  mince,  and  let  simmer  whilst  stirring  for  about  10  minutes. 
Now  add  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 
Re-heat,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  again.  The  dish  is  then  ready  to  serve, 
and  should  be  accompanied  with  thinly  cut  buttered  brown  bread. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3 
persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

3641.— CREAMED    PEAS.         (Fr.— Petits    Pois    a    la 
Crime.) 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  cooked  green  peas,  salt,  green  mint,  3  or  4 
tabiespoonfuls  of  cream,  pepper,  castor  sugar,  finely-chopped  parsley, 
butter. 

Method. — Take  the  green  peas  (preserved  ones  may  be  used  when 
fresh  peas  are  not  obtainable),  heat  them  in  boiling  water  containing 
salt  and  a  sprig  of  green  mint.  Drain  off  the  water  and  put  the  peas 
into  the  chafing  dish  with  the  cream.  Season  with  salt  and  pepjx^r. 
also  a  good  pinch  of  castor  sugar.  Add  a  dessertspoonful  of  finely- 


I5i8  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

chopped  parsley,  and  stir  carefully  over  the  spirit  flame  until  the  peas 
and  cream  are  thoroughly  hot  ;  the  cream  must  not  be  allowed  to 
boil.  A  little  fresh  butter  may  be  added  to  the  peas  if  liked. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or 
3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3642.— CURRIED  TOAST.     (Fr.— Pain  grille  en  Kari.) 

Ingredients. — i  sandwich  loaf,  curry  or  mulligatawny  paste,  and 
anchovy  or  bloater  paste. 

Method. — Cut  4  slices  from  the  sandwich  loaf,  not  too  thin,  and 
toast  them  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  ;  trim  off  the  crusts  and  butter 
each  slice  ;  then  spread  with  a  mixture  composed  of  equal  propor- 
tions of  curry  or  mulligatawny  and  anchovy  or  bloater  paste.  Cut 
the  prepared  toast  into  fingers,  place  it  in  a  hot  chafing  dish  to  heat 
it  :  the  toast  is  then  ready  to  serve. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3643.— DEVILLED    LOBSTER.       (Fr.— Homard  a  la 
Diable.) 

Ingredients. — i  medium-sized  lobster,  Bechamel  sauce,  pepper,  salt, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  mustard,  brandy,  bread  and  butter. 

Method. — Remove  the  meat  from  the  lobster  and  chop  it  finely  ;  put 
it  in  a  chafing  dish  with  enough  Bechamel  or  other  white  sauce  to 
moisten,  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Re-heat  and  add  the  mustard, 
mixed  with  a  little  brandy  or  sherry.  Have  ready  some  rounds  of 
toasted  bread,  butter  them,  and  spread  them  thickly  with  the  hot 
lobster  mixture  and  serve. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2S.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3 
persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

3644.— FRICASSEED  OYSTERS.     (Fr.— Fricasse   aux 
Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — i  dozen  large  oysters  and  their  liquor,  £  an  oz.  of  butter, 
£  an  oz.  of  flour,  i  gill  of  milk,  i  egg,  milk  and  cream. 

Method. — Blanch  the  oysters,  drain  and  beard  them.  Melt  the  butter 
in  a  chafing  dish,  to  this  add  the  flour,  stir  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
moisten  with  milk  and  the  strained  oyster  liquor.  Bring  to  the  boil, 
and  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Cut  the  oysters  in  halves,  add  them  to 
the  sauce,  let  them  get  very  hot  together  without  boiling,  then  add 
the  beaten  yolk  of  the  egg  and  a  little  cream.  Season  to  taste  and 
serve. 

Time. — 25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  23.  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  per- 
sons.  Seasonable,  September  to  April. 


CHAFING    DISH    AND    CASSEROLE    COOKERY    1519 
3645._FRIED  SCALLOPS.     (Fr.— Escaloppes  f rites.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  fresh  scallops,  finely  crushed  shredded  wheat 
biscuits,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  oiled  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  parsley,  lemon. 

Method. — Cut  the  scallops  in  halves,  wipe  them,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  then  dip  them  in  oiled  butter.  Drain  again,  and  roll  them 
in  the  shredded  wheat  biscuit.  Heat  up  the  butter  in  the  chafing  dish, 
when  quite  hot  drop  in  the  crumbed  scallops,  and  fry  to  a  golden 
colour.  Take  up,  drain,  dish  up  and  garnish  with  slices  of  lemon  and 
parsley,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 7  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  id.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3 
persons.  Seasonable,  January  to  June. 

3646.  — OYSTER   OMELET.         (Fr.  —  Omelette   aux 
Huitres.) 

Ingredients. — i  dozen  oysters,  6  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  milk,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  oyster  liquor,  salt,  pepper,  i  oz.  of  butter. 

Method. — Blanch  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  drain  them  and 
remove  the  beards,  and  cut  into  small  dice.  Beat  up  the  eggs  in  the 
milk  and  oyster  liquor,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add 
the  oysters.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  chafing  dish,  pour  in  the  mixture, 
and  stir  over  a  quick  fire  until  the  eggs  begin  to  set.  Fold  over  and 
shape  neatly  (oval  cushion  shape),  allow  the  omelet  to  take  colour, 
and  serve. 

Time. — 4  or  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3 
persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  April. 

3647.— SALMON     OMELET.         (Fr.  -  -  Omelette     de 
Saumon.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  salmon,  6  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  milk,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  white  sauce,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Free  the  salmon  from  skin  and  bones  and  flake  it  finely  ; 
heat  it  up  in  just  enough  butter  and  white  sauce  to  moisten.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  keep  hot.  Beat  up  the  eggs  with  i  table- 
spoonful  of  milk  ;  melt  the  butter  in  the  chafing  dish,  pour  in  the 
egg  mixture,  and  stir  over  a  quick  fire  until  the  eggs  begin  to  set. 
When  ready  to  fold,  put  in  the  hot  salmon  mixture,  fold  in  the  ends 
and  shape  neatly.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — 5  or  6  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d.  Sufficient  for 
3  persons.  Seasonable,  from  February  to  October. 

3648.— SCRAMBLED   EGGS   WITH   OYSTERS. 

(Fr. — Oeufs  brouilles  aux  huitres.) 

Ingredients. — i  dozen  oysters,  6  eggs,  i  oz.  of  fresh  butter,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  anchovy  paste,  salt  and  pepper. 


1520  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Mix  the  butter  with  the  anchovy  paste.  Beat  up  the  eggs, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  the  anchovy  butter  in  the 
chafing  dish,  when  hot  pour  in  the  eggs,  stir  lightly  until  the  mixture 
begins  to  thicken,  then  add  quickly  the  oysters,  previously  bearded 
and  cut  into  halves  or  dice.  Serve  from  the  chafing  dish  with  fingers 
of  toasted  bread,  buttered  and  lightly  spread  with  anchovy  paste. 

Time. — 10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable,  from  September  to  April. 

3649.— SHRIVELLED     OYSTERS.          (Fr.  —  Huitres 
Etouffes.) 

Ingredients. — i  dozen  oysters  and  their  liquor,  \  an  oz.  of  fresh  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice  and  parsley. 

Method. — Put  the  oyster  liquor  in  the  chafing  dish  over  the  lamp, 
allow  it  to  boil,  and  remove  the  scum  from  the  surface.  Add  the 
fresh  butter,  and  put  in  the  oysters,  previously  bearded.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  a  little  parsley.  Cook 
for  5  minutes,  and  serve  plain  or  on  toast. 

Time. — 5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  2 
persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  April. 

365o.— STEWED  CHICKEN  WITH   RICE. 

(Fr. — Ragout  de  Poulet  en  Riz.) 

Ingredients. — i  boiled  or  roast  chicken,  3  to  4  tablespoonfuls  of  white 
sauce,  i  cupful  of  cooked  rice,  salt,  pepper,  grate  of  a  nutmeg,  white 
stock. 

Method. — Cut  the  remains  of  the  chicken  from  bones  and  then  into 
large  dice  shapes.  Put  this  into  a  chafing  dish  with  the  white  sauce 
and  the  cooked  rice.  Moisten  further  with  a  little  white  stock,  cover 
the  dish  and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  about  25  minutes,  stirring 
occasionally.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — 25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  35. 6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3651.— WOODCOCK  TOAST. 

(Fr. — Pain  grille  a  TEcossaise.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  chicken  or  duck  livers,  2  small  Gorgona 
anchovies,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  butter,  3  yolks  of 
eggs,  £  a  gill  of  cream,  £  teaspoonful  of  spiced  pepper  (Paprika  or 
Krona  pepper),  a  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  clean  the  livers,  removing  carefully  any  gall 
that  may  be  left  on.  Drain  them  in  a  cloth,  and  pound  in  a  mortar 
until  quite  fine  ;  bone  and  skin  the  anchovies,  and  pound  them  to  a 


CHAFING   DISH    AND    CASSEROLE    COOKERY    1521 

paste.  Mix  all  thoroughly,  and  add  the  butter,  sugar,  and  seasoning. 
Rub  through  a  fine  sieve  and  incorporate  the  egg  yolks  and  half  the 
above-mentioned  quantity  of  cream.  Stir  this  in  a  chafing  dish  until 
it  is  sufficiently  cooked.  Have  ready  a  plate  with  a  piece  of  buttered 
toast  just  before  serving,  add  a  little  more  cream  and  seasoning  if 
needed,  pour  the  mixture  over  the  toast,  garnish  with  fried  bread 
croutons,  and  serve. 

Time. — 15  minutes.    Average  Cost,  is.  6d.    Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


Casserole  Cookery 

3652.— ASPARAGUS    AU    GRATIN. 

Ingredients. —  i  bundle  of  asparagus,  i  gill  of  Bechamel  sauce  (Nos. 
177  to  179),  grated  cheese,  breadcrumbs,  butter,  salt,  a  grate  of  nutmeg, 
and  a  pinch  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Clean  the  asparagus,  cut  off  the  tender  portion,  and  tie 
up  in  small  bundles.  Cook  for  about  20  minutes  in  fast  boiling  water 
slightly  salted,  then  drain  and  let  cool.  Arrange  the  cooked  asparagus 
in  layers  on  a  greased  baking  or  gratin  dish,  placing  layers  of  the  pre- 
pared sauce  between  the  layers  of  asparagus.  Spread  some  of  the 
sauce  over  the  top,  and  sprinkle  with  grated  cheese  and  breadcrumbs. 
Place  a  small  piece  of  butter  here  and  there  on  the  surface,  and  bake 
in  a  sharp  oven  for  about  20  minutes.  The  top  should  then  acquire 
a  golden  brown.  Place  the  gratin  dish  on  another  plain  dish,  cover 
with  a  folded  napkin,  and  send  to  table. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33. 6d.  to  IDS.  per  100.  Sufficient  for 
8  persons.  Seasonable,  January  to  July. 

3653.— BRAISED  PARTRIDGES  WITH  CABBAGE. 
(Fr. — Perdreaux  Braises  aux  Choux.) 

Ingredients. — i  brace  of  partridges,  3  slices  of  fat  bacon,  2  peeled 
shallots,  i  bay  leaf,  i  small  bouquet  garni,  i  blade  of  mace,  i  sliced 
carrot,  i  pint  of  good  stock,  2  small  cabbages,  £  a  pint  of  well-reduced 
brown  sauce,  i  sausage,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pick,  draw,  and  truss  the  partridges  for  boiling.  Line  the 
bottom  of  an  earthenware  braising  pan  with  the  slices  of  fat  bacon, 
the  shallots,  bay  leaf,  bouquet  garni,  mace  and  sliced  carrot.  Put  in 
the  partridges,  and  cook  over  a  brisk  fire  for  about  10  minutes — long 
enough  to  brown  the  birds  a  little.  Then  moisten  with  the  stock. 
Trim  and  wash  the  cabbages,  cut  them  into  quarters,  and  cook  them 
in  salted  water  till  half  done,  drain  them  well,  press  in  a  cloth,  and  tie 
up  each  with  string.  Put  them  in  the  pan  with  the  birds,  season  with 


1522  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  the  whole  in  the  oven  for  about  an  hour. 
Strain  the  liquor  or  stock,  and  return  it  to  the  braising  pan  with  the 
brown  sauce.  Boil  up  and  skim,  now  place  in  the  partridges,  the 
portions  of  cabbage  and  a  few  pieces  of  sausage,  cover  the  pan,  let 
it  cook  gently  for  another  10  minutes,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  75.  to  8s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  February. 

3654.— CURRIED  RABBIT.   (Fr.— Lapina  1'Indienne.) 

Ingredients. — i  rabbit,  seasoned  flour  (flour  mixed  with  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste),  2  ozs.  of  butter  or  dripping,  i  finely-chopped  onion, 
i  tablespoonful  of  mild  curry  powder  (Madras  or  Laxami),  i  clove  of 
crushed  garlic,  %  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  $  a  teaspoonful 
of  ground  ginger,  a  little  ground  mace,  i£  pints  of  brown  stock,  6 
button  mushrooms,  plain  boiled  rice. 

Method. — Cut  the  skinned  rabbit  into  neat  joints,  dip  each  piece  into 
the  seasoned  flour.  Fry  the  rabbit  in  a  large  casserole,  containing  the 
butter  or  dripping.  When  nicely  browned,  remove  the  rabbit,  add  a 
finely-chopped  onion  to  the  fat  in  the  pan,  fry  this  with  the  mild  curry 
powder  and  add  also  the  clove  of  crushed  garlic.  Fry  for  a  few 
moments  more,  then  put  in  the  pieces  of  rabbit,  the  ground  cinna- 
mon, ground  ginger,  and  a  little  ground  mace.  Moisten  with  the 
brown  stock,  and  boil,  stirring  occasionally.  Skim  well,  add  the 
mushrooms,  peeled,  and  let  the  whole  simmer  gently,  with  the  lid  on 
the  casserole,  for  i£  hours  or  less.  Have  ready  some  plain  boiled  rice 
to  be  handed  round  as  the  curry  is  served. 

Time. — From  i  \  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  about  2s.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable,  from  September  to  February. 

3655._EGG    COQUILLES    WITH    SPINACH. 

(Fr. — Oeufs  aux  Epinards  en  Coquilles.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  prepared  and  seasoned  spinach,  i  breakfast- 
cupful  of  cream,  6  fresh  eggs,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Have  6  very  small  coquille  or  marmite  pots,  or  china 
souffle  cases,  butter  them,  and  put  i  tablespoonful  of  the  spinach  in 
each.  Upon  this  put  about  i  dessertspoonful  of  cream.  Break  i  egg 
in  each,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  bake  carefully  in  a 
moderately-heated  oven  for  8  minutes.  Dish  up,  and  serve  quickly. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3656.— HOT  POT  OF  HODGE  PODGE. 

Ingredients.— 1£  Ibs.  of  neck  or  loin  of  mutton,  i  Ib.  of  potatoes, 
i  good-sized  onion,  i  oz.  of  dripping,  £  pint  of  good  stock,  chopped 
parsley,  dried  savoury  herbs,  salt  and  pepper. 


CHAFING   DISH    AND    CASSEROLE    COOKERY    1523 

Method. — Wash,  peel,  and  slice  the  potatoes,  peel  and  cut  into  slices 
the  onion,  par-fry  both  potatoes  and  onion  separately.  Trim  the 
mutton,  and  cut  into  conveniently-sized  pieces,  lightly  fry  them  in  a 
pan  containing  the  dripping.  Line  a  hot-pot  jar  with  alternate  layers 
of  potatoes,  meat  and  onion.  Season  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  a  pinch  of  dried  savoury  herbs.  Moisten  with  the  stock,  cover 
the  jar  and  place  it  to  cook  in  a  fairly  hot  oven  for  about  i£  hours. 
The  stew  must  cook  slowly,  and  the  fat  must  be  carefully  removed 
before  the  dish  is  sent  to  the  table.  When  ready  for  serving,  sprinkle 
a  little  chopped  parsley  on  top. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for 
4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — If  liked,  a  handful  of  cooked  peas  or  a  few  mushrooms  can  be 
added  to  the  stew  about  ten  minutes  before  serving  it.  This  is  an  ex- 
ceedingly popular  luncheon  or  supper  dish  for  those  who  appreciate  an  old' 
fashioned  stew.  Either  mutton,  beef  or  pork  can  be  used  for  it,  the  method 
of  preparation  being  the  same. 

3657.— MUSHROOM    PUREE    IN    CASES. 

(Fr. — Puree  de  Champignons  en  caisses.^ 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  fresh-cut  mushrooms,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  rich  brown  sauce,  2  eggs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  peel  the  mushrooms,  chop  them  very  finely,  and 
fry  in  butter  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Then  add  the  brown 
sauce,  stew  the  puree  for  10  minutes,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  stir  in  the  yolks  of  2  eggs.  Lastly,  add  the  stitily- whisked  white 
of  i  egg,  blend  the  whole  well,  and  fill  into  buttered  ramakin  cases. 
Bake  in  a  moderately  heated  oven  for  15  minutes. 

Time. — To  bake,  5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  8  persons.  Seasonable,  March  to  October. 

3658.— QUAILES  EN  CASSEROLE. 

Ingredients. — 6  quails,  i  gill  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  handful  of 
breadcrumbs,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  parsley,  shallot, 
3  to  4  chicken  livers,  6  slices  of  bacon,  i  gill  of  Madeira  sauce,  No. 
255,  i  bay  leaf. 

Method. — Prepare  the  quails  as  for  stuffing.  Put  the  milk  in  an 
earthenware  stewpan,  add  the  butter,  a  small  bay  leaf,  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  boil.  Stir  in  the  breadcrumbs,  and 
let  simmer  for  10  minutes.  Remove  the  bay  leaf,  and  stir  in  the  egg 
yolks.  Cut  the  chicken  livers  up  small,  saute  them  in  butter  in  which 
the  finely  chopped  shallot  has  been  blended,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Mix  the  puree  with  the  breadcrumbs, 
etc.,  and  stuff  the  bird  with  this.  Wrap  each  quail  in  a  thin  slice  of 
bacon,  place  them  in  an  earthenware  pan  (casserole)  with  the  re- 


1524  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

mainder  of  butter,  and  cook  over  a  slow  fire  for  £  an  hour.     Pour  off 
the  fat,  add  the  sauce,  and  finish  cooking. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  93.  to  los.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable,  from  October  to  February. 

3659.— RABBIT    EN    CASSEROLE. 

Ingredients. — i  good-sized  rabbit,  4  strips  of  fat  bacon,  butter,  2 
onions  sliced,  bacon  (cut  into  cubes),  salt,  pepper,  i  heaped  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  i  glass  of  white  wine  (Chablis  or  Sauterne),  i  small  bouquet 
garni,  i  pint  of  stock. 

Method. — Wash  and  wipe  the  rabbit,  divide  it  into  joints,  lard  the 
legs  and  breast  portion  with  the  strips  of  bacon  fat,  and  fry  in  an 
earthenware  casserole  containing  butter,  sliced  onions,  and  bacon  cut 
into  cubes.  When  a  nice  light  brown  colour,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  besprinkle  with  the  flour.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the 
flour  has  acquired  a  chestnut  tint,  then  moisten  with  the  white  wine  ; 
add  the  bouquet  garni  and  the  stock.  Boil  up,  place  the  lid  on  the 
pan,  and  cook  in  the  oven  or  over  a  slow  fire  until  the  meat  is  quite 
tender.  Remove  the  bouquet  of  herbs,  and  any  scum  from  the  surface 
of  the  stew,  and  serve  in  the  casserole. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  23.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or 
4  persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  February. 

3660.— SPINACH  RAMAKINS.     (Fr.— Ramaquins  aux 
Epinards.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  spinach,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour, 
£  of  a  gill  of  cream,  £  of  a  gill  of  stock,  2  eggs,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg. 

Method. — Pick  and  wash  the  spinach  and  cook  it  with  very  little 
water,  slightly  salted,  till  quite  tender.  Then  squeeze  out  the 
moisture,  and  drain  thoroughly,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Melt 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  cook  a  little,  and  moisten  with 
the  cream  and  stock  ;  boil  up  and  add  the  spinach,  season  to  taste 
with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  cook  for  10  minutes.  Incorporate 
2  yolks  of  eggs.  Whisk  to  a  stiff  froth  2  whites  of  eggs  ;  add  this  to 
the  mixture.  Nearly  fill  6  or  8  well-buttered  china  ramakin  cases, 
and  bake  in  a  moderately  heated  oven  for  about  20  minutes. 

Time. — To  bake,  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  rod.  Sufficient  for 
6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


FRENCH  COOKERY 


CHAPTER    LI 

General  Observations  on  French  Cookery,  and  Recipes 
for  Typical  French  Dishes 

The  First  Cookery  Book  in  a  Modern  Language  was  published  in  Madrid 
in  1521.  Spain  has  therefore  the  honour  of  being  the  pioneer  in  this 
direction,  while  France  ranks  next  to  Spain  for  developing  the  culinary 
ai't.  France,  although  now  the  nurse  of  all  modern  cooks,  was  in  a 
state  of  comparative  darkness  with  regard  to  cookery  until  1580,  when 
the  delicacies  of  the  Italian  table  were  introduced  into  Paris,  and  from 
that  time  the  French  made  rapid  progress  in  the  culinary  art,  and  soon 
surpassed  their  Italian  masters.  Now  French  cookery  ranks  deservedly 
high,  perhaps  higher  than  any  other  :  and  the  land  that  gave  birth  to 
a  Careme,  a  Savarin,  a  Soyer,  and  other  distinguished  chefs,  is  justly 
proud  of  having  raised  the  culinary  art  to  a  high  standard  of  perfection. 
In  France  cookery  began  to  be  recognized  as  an  important  art  in  the 
reign  of  Louis  XIV,  whose  great  fetes  were  always  accompanied  by 
sumptuous  banquets.  In  the  following  reign  the  Cordon  bleu,  the  order 
of  knighthood  of  the  Saint  Esprit,  instituted  by  Henry  III,  became  the 
recognized  definition  of  a  skilful  female  cook.  It  is  recorded  that  the 
distinction  was  first  bestowed  by  Louis  XV  on  the  female  cook  of  the 
celebrated  Madame  de  Barry,  as  a  mark  of  His  Majesty's  high  appre- 
ciation of  the  excellent  and  elaborate  repast  prepared  in  his  honour. 
In  England  refinement  had  not  yet  set  its  seal  on  even  the  most  ad- 
vanced branches  of  cookery,  for  instead  of  the  "  coulis  de  faisan," 
"  salmis  de  becassines,"  "  volaille  a  la  Supreme,"  and  other  dainty 
dishes  which  are  said  to  have  earned  the  coveted  "  Cordon  blue,"  we 
find  included  in  English  menus  of  that  period  such  coarse  preparations 
as  black  pudding,  and  the  homely,  savoury,  but  by  no  means  delicate 
viand,  roast  goose. 

Considering  the  rapid  advance  in  other  directions,  it  is  an  amazing 
fact  that  France,  the  culinary  nation  par  excellence,  ignored  the  exist- 
ence of  the  potato  until  the  year  1787,  although  it  had  been  generally 

1525 


1526  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

known  and  appreciated  as  an  article  of  diet  in  England  and  Spain  for 
upwards  of  150  years.  Ultimately,  Parmentur,  a  French  cuisinidre, 
introduced  this  edible  root  into  his  native  land,  and  he  not  only  induced 
his  countrymen  to  accept  it  as  a  food,  but  at  the  same  time  he  taught 
them  more  than  fifty  ways  of  preparing  it  for  the  table. 

Apart  from  the  simple  processes  of  roasting,  baking,  boiling,  and 
stewing,  nearly  all  our  cookery  has  been  introduced  from  foreign 
sources.  The  French  methods  of  dressing  fish  and  vegetables,  are 
now  largely  introduced  into  English  kitchens,  and  French  bwu- 
geoise  dishes  have  become  quite  popular.  Greater  difference,  how- 
ever, exists  between  the  diet  of  the  French  bourgeoise  and  the  corre- 
sponding class  in  England,  for  while  the  former  live  principally  on 
well-cooked,  palatable,  yet  inexpensive  soups,  vegetables,  and  fruits, 
the  latter  eat  more  and  better  kinds  of  meat,  yet  fail  to  obtain  a  proper 
amount  of  nourishment  from  the  same,  by  reason  of  the  wasteful 
culinary  methods  employed.  The  French  bourgeoise  cookery  is  an 
essentially  slow  process,  by  which  the  natural  flavours  of  the  sub- 
stances are  extracted  by  gentle  means,  and  at  the  same  time  other 
flavours  are  blended  so  artfully  with  them  that  no  particular  one  pre- 
dominates. Stews,  ragouts,  and  braises  largely  replace  the  joint  which 
appears  almost  daily  on  our  tables.  In  this  lies  the  secret  of  the 
French  skill  in  economy,  for  while  only  the  prime  parts  can  be  roasted, 
and  always  at  a  considerable  loss  in  weight,  owing  to  evaporation  and 
melting  of  the  fat,  the  inferior  parts  may,  by  a  long,  slow  process  of 
stewing,  be  converted  into  easily  digested,  palatable,  and  nourishing 
food. 

The  prejudice  against  soup  existing  among  the  lower  classes  in 
England  will  not  be  readily  dispelled,  for  it  is  too  satisfying  for  the 
moment,  and  too  quickly  followed  by  a  feeling  of  hunger,  in  conse- 
quence of  being  so  readily  digested.  The  English  housewife  of  a 
humble  class  makes  the  mistake  of  dispensing  soup  in  bowlfuls,  and 
frequently  in  place  of  more  solid  food,  whereas  the  French  people 
simply  have  a  ladleful  of  hot,  palatable,  but  not  always  nourishing  or 
satisfying  soup,  which  instead  of  impairing  the  appetite,  serves  to 
prepare  the  stomach  for  the  reception  of  more  solid  food,  thereby 
aiding  digestion. 

As  regards  the  food  of  the  upper  classes,  the  cookery  of  France 
is  now  almost  identical  with  that  of  England.  For  many  years 
French  chefs  have  been  employed  in  the  kitchens  of  large  establish- 
ments in  England,  consequently  high-class  cookery  has  become 
almost  entirely  French  in  character.  This  to  a  very  large  extent  can 
be  said  of  the  best  class  household  cookery,  which  is  termed  and  known 
as  Bourgeoise  Cookery  in  France. 

Food  Supply. — The  many  rivers  of  France,  as  well  as  the  seas  that 
lave  its  shores,  yield  a  plentiful  supply  of  fish,  all  the  varieties  known 
to  us  being  found  there,  as  well  as  the  delicious  sardine,  which  forms 


FRENCH    COOKERY  1527 

a  staple  branch  of  industry  on  the  western  coast.  On  the  south  coast 
the  sturgeon  is  in  everyday  use  ;  a  huge  slice  of  it,  larded  and  covered 
with  herbs,  may  be  frequently  seen  carried  through  the  streets  to  the 
baker's  oven,  and  when  cooked  it  very  much  resembles  a  fillet  of  veal 
both  in  taste  and  appearance.  Another  fish  in  general  use  is  the  skate, 
which  is  usually  served  with  its  quaint  wings  smothered  in  white  sauce. 

France  is  abundantly  supplied  with  Game,  and  the  pheasant  and  partridge 
stand  as  high  in  favour  there  as  in  England. 

Roast  kid,  unknown,  or  nearly  so,  in  England,  is  a  favourite  dish, 
more  especially  in  the  south,  where  it  is  so  plentiful  that  it  is  frequently 
cried  in  the  streets.  It  is  dressed  like  lamb,  or,  when  very  young, 
stuffed  with  breadcrumbs  and  herbs,  and  roasted  whole. 

Poultry  feeding  is  quite  an  art  in  France,  and  every  French  cook 
knows  how  to  cram  a  fowl,  duck,  or  goose.  To  watch  them,  they 
would  appear  to  go  at  the  process  with  a  will.  Seizing  the  unfortunate 
bird  three  or  four  times  a  day,  they  open  its  bill  and  stuff  a  quantity 
of  warm  meal  and  potato  down  its  throat,  caressing  it  and  talking  to 
it  the  while,  and  when  they  consider  it  has  had  food  enough,  wind  up 
by  giving  it  a  very  small  walnut  by  way  of  a  digestive. 

Nature  supplies  the  whole  of  France  very  generously  with  every- 
thing that  can  further  good  cooking,  while  the  south  simply  abounds 
in  fruit  and  vegetables,  large  importations  of  which  daily  find  their 
way  to  our  shores. 


Typical    French    Dishes 

3661.— BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  SAUTES.     (Fr.— Choux 
de  Bruxelles  Sautes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs  of  sprouts,  2-3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallots,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  lemon-juice,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  and  wash  the  sprouts,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  of 
slightly-salted  boiling  water,  cook  for  15  minutes,  then  drain  them 
thoroughly.  Melt  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallots  slightly, 
then  add  the  parsley  and  sprouts,  and  fry  gently  until  the  whole  is 
lightly  browned.  Meanwhile  heat  the  remaining  butter  in  a  smaller 
stewpan,  add  the  flour,  mix  smoothly  with  a  little  milk  or  cream, 
lemon-juice,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  cook  gently  for  about 
10  minutes  Pile  the  sprouts  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and 
serve. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  per- 
sons. Seasonable  in  winter. 


1528  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3662.— CARROT    SOUP.       (£>.— Potage   a   la   Crecy, 
or  Puree  de  Garottes.) 

Ingredients. — 10  fresh  carrots,  i  onion,  i  leek,  3  ozs.  of  butter  or  2 
ozs.  of  dripping,  3  pints  of  boiling  stock  or  water,  a  few  rinds  of  bacon, 
sugar,  salt  and  pepper,  fried  croutons. 

Method. — Prepare  the  vegetables  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces. 
Melt  the  butter  or  fat  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  vegetables,  cover  with 
a  close-fitting  lid,  and  cook  gently  for  i  hour.  Add  the  boiling  water 
or  stock  and  the  bacon  rinds,  and  continue  the  gentle  cooking  until 
the  vegetables  are  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Pass  the  whole  through  a  sieve 
or  colander,  then  add  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  re-heat  and 
serve.  The  croutons  should  be  handed  separately. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d.  Sufficient  for  4 or  5  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3663.— CAULIFLOWER    FRITTERS.     (Fr.— Beignets 
de  Chouxfleur.) 

Ingredients. — 2  large  cauliflowers,  salt,  water  (i  tablespoonful  of  salt 
to  2  quarts  of  water),  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  olive  oil,  8  dessert- 
spoonfuls of  flour,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  J  of  a  pint  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Trim  and  cleanse  the  cauliflowers  in  the  usual  way,  and 
half  boil  them  in  salt  and  water.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  little  hot  water, 
stir  in  the  flour,  oil  and  salt,  making  a  batter  which  will  run  from  the 
spoon;  mix  lightly  with  it  the  whites  of  2  eggs  well  beaten  up.  Drain 
the  cauliflowers  thoroughly,  divide  them  into  branches,  and  shake  the 
branches  well  in  the  vinegar,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper;  then  dip 
them  in  the  batter,  and  fry  in  deep  fat,  taking  care  that  they  do  not 
stick  to  each  other.  Serve  in  pyramidal  shape,  and  garnish  with  some 
sprigs  of  parsley. 

Time. — \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  8  persons.  Sea- 
sonable in  summer. 

3664.— CROUTE  AU  POT. 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  stock  (see  Pot-au-Feu,  No.  3674),  2  carrots, 
\  a  turnip,  2  or  3  strips  of  celery,  £  of  a  small  cabbage,  i  or  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  small  stale  French  rolls,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  a 
pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  prepare  the  vegetables,  cut  the  carrots,  turnip 
and  celery  into  thin  slices,  and  the  cabbage  into  small  pieces,  and 
fry  them  in  the  butter  for  10  minutes.  Add  the  hot  stock,  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  simmer  gently  for  £  an  hour.  Meanwhile, 
cut  the  French  roll  into  thin  slices,  and  bake  these  in  a  moderate  oven 
until  browned  on  both  sides.  Place  them  in  a  soup  tureen,  moisten 
them  with  a  little  soup  to  prevent  their  floating,  and  pour  the  rest  of 
the  soup  over  them.  Sprinkle  the  parsley  on  the  top,  and  serve. 


TYPICAL   FRENCH    DISHES  1529 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufflcent  for  9  or  10 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3665.— FRENCH  .COCK-A-LEEKIE  SOUP. 

(Fr. — Potage  aux  Poireaux.) 

Ingredients. — 2  sets  of  fowl  giblets,  6  leeks,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  a  few  rinds 
of  bacon,  3  pints  of  boiling  water,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  giblets  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces.  Trim 
the  leeks,  cut  them  lengthwise  into  quarters,  and  then  across  into  pieces 
i  inch  long.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  prepared  leeks, 
cover  closely,  and  let  them  steam  in  the  hot  butter  for  £  an  hour. 
Add  the  boiling  water,  bacon  rinds,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  continue 
to  cook  slowly  for  at  least  2  hours.  When  ready  remove  the  bacon 
rinds,  season  to  taste,  and,  if  necessary,  improve  the  colour  by  adding 
a  few  drops  of  caramel. 

Time. — From  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3666.— HARICOT  MUTTON.    (Fr.— Ragout  or  Navarin 
de  Mouton.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  neck  of  mutton,  6  rather  small  turnips  peeled 
and  cut  into  thick  slices,  2  ozs.  of  butter  or  good  dripping  (about), 
i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf), 
a  small  clove  of  garlic,  |  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  mutton  into  cutlets,  and  if  very  fat  remove  some 
of  it.  Heat  about  £  the  butter  or  fat  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  meat  quickly 
until  the  entire  surface  is  lightly  browned;  meanwhile  sprinkle  it  with 
Jiour  so  as  to  make  it  brown  more  quickly.  When  ready,  add  the 
boiling  water,  garlic,  bouquet-garni,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper, 
cover  with  a  close-fitting  lid,  and  cook  very  slowly  for  i  hour.  In  the 
meantime  heat  the  remaining  butter,  fry  the  turnips  brown,  then  drain 
them  and  put  them  into  the  stewpan  containing  the  meat.  Continue 
to  cook  slowly  until  both  meat  and  turnips  are  tender,  then  pile  the 
meat  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  and  arrange  the  pieces  of  turnip  round 
the  base.  Skim  well  to  remove  some  of  the  fat,  then  strain  the  gravy 
over  the  meat,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3667.— LAMB  CUTLETS  A  LA  CONSTANCE. 

(Fr. — Cotelettes  d'Agneau  a  la  Constance.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  lamb  cutlets,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  18  button  mush- 
rooms, 4  fowls'  livers,  4  cocks'  combs,  £  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce 
(see  Sauces,  No.  177),  salt  and  pepper. 


1530         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method.-^-Clean  and  blanch  the  cocks'  combs,  rub  off  the  outer  skin, 
let  them  lie  in  cold  water  for  3  or  4  hours,  then  cut  each  one  into  3 
or  4  pieces.  Wash  and  dry  the  livers,  cut  them  into  quarters,  and  toss 
them  with  the  mushrooms  and  cocks'  combs  in  a  little  hot  butter  for 
a  few  minutes.  Add  the  Bechamel  sauce,  season  to  taste,  and  let  the 
stewpan  remain  closely  covered  on  the  stove  while  the  cutlets  are  being 
cooked.  Heat  the  remaining  butter  in  a  saut£-pan  or  frying-pan, 
fry  the  cutlets  lightly  on  both  sides,  then  arrange  them  in  a  close  circle 
on  a  hot  dish  with  or  without  a  potato  border,  as  may  be  preferred. 
Serve  the  ragout  in  the  centre,  and  strain  the  sauce  round. 

Time. — From  3^  to  4^  hours.  Average  Cost,  55.  to  6s.  Sufficient  for  7 
or  8  persons.  Seasonable  from  January  to  October. 


3668.— LEG  OF  MUTTON  A  LA  PROVENCALE. 

(Fr. — Gigot  de  Mouton  a  la  Provengale.) 

Ingredients. — A  leg  of  mutton  of  7  or  8  lbs.,lardoons  of  fat  bacon  and 
of  ham,  a  few  anchovies,  parsley,  blanched  tarragon,  2  cloves  of  garlic, 
thyme,  chopped  onions,  2  or  3  bay-leaves,  coarse  pepper,  salt,  |  a  pint, 
of  olive-oil,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar. 

Method. — Take  a  leg  of  mutton  that  has  hung  sufficiently  long  to 
make  it  quite  tender,  cut  off  the  shank  bone,  lift  the  skin  partly  without 
injuring  it,  and  lard  the  leg  with  the  lardoons  of  bacon  and  ham,  some 
strips  of  anchovies,  and  bits  of  parsley  and  blanched  tarragon,  and, 
if  not  objected  to,  a  few  strips  of  garlic.  Place  in  an  earthenware 
pan  some  thyme,  parsley,  chopped  onions,  2  or  3  bay-leaves,  coarse 
pepper  and  a  little  salt,  pour  over  it  \  a  pint  of  olive-oil  and  the  vinegar. 
Allow  the  leg  of  mutton  to  lie  in  this  marinade  2  or  3  hours,  turning  it 
frequently.  Then  take  it  out,  spread  over  it  the  herbs,  etc.,  of  the 
marinade,  covering  them  over  with  the  skin.  Wrap  up  in  buttered 
paper,  and  roast  in  front  of  a  brisk  fire.  Remove  the  paper,  and  serve. 

Time. — 5  to  6  hours.  Average  Cost,  ys.  6d.  to  8s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  10 
or  1 1  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3669.— MIROTON    OF   APPLES.       (Fr.— Miroton    de 
Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — 12  medium-sized  apples,  \  a  Ib.  of  apple  marmalade, 
\  a  Ib.  of  apricot  marmalade,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  i  teaspoonful 
of  grated  cinnamon,  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  i  wineglassful  of  brandy. 

Method. — Peel,  core  and  slice  the  apples,  sprinkle  over  them  the 
sugar  and  cinnamon,  pour  over  the  brandy  and  lemon- juice,  and  let 
them  soak  for  4  hours.  When  ready,  mix  the  apple  and  apricot  marma- 
lade together,  and  pile  in  the  centre  of  a  fireproof  dish.  Drain  the  slices 
of  apple,  arrange  them  in  a  pyramidal  fnrrn  round  and  above  the  mound 


TYPICAL    FRENCH    DISHES  1531 

of  marmalade.     Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  J  an  hour,  then  sprinkle 
liberally  with  castor  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — 5  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  3d.  to  2s.  pd.  Sufficient  for  10 
persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

367o._ONION  SOUP,  BROWN.  (Fr.— Potage  Soubise 
Brune.) 

Ingredients. — 4  medium-sized  onions  cut  into  dice,  2  ozs.  of  butter 
or  i£  ozs.  of  good  dripping,  a  few  scraps  of  stale  bread  cut  into  small 
pieces,  a  few  rinds  of  bacon,  the  water  in  which  a  cauliflower  has  been 
cooked. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  onions,  cover 
closely,  and  let  them  cook  very  slowly  for  i  hour.  Meanwhile,  boil 
the  cauliflower  in  slightly  salted  water,  drain  it,  and  pour  the  water 
over  the  onions  when  they  are  sufficiently  cooked.  Add  the  bacon 
rinds,  bread  and  a  little  pepper,  cover  and  cook  gently  for  i  hour, 
then  press  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Replace  the  soup  in  the 
stewpan;  if  too  thin,  let  it  boil  rapidly  until  sufficiently  reduced;  or 
if  too  thick,  add  a  little  milk.  Re-heat,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 2±  to  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,4d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3671.— ONION       SOUP,      WHITE.  (Fr.— Potage 

Soubise  Blanche.) 

Ingredients. — 4  medium-sized  onions  cut  into  dice,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 

1  pint  of  milk,  \  a  pint  of  white  stock  or  water,  the  crumb  of  i  or  2 
slices  of  bread,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  onions,  cover 
closely,  and  cook  very  gently  for  i  hour,  taking  care  that  they  do  not 
acquire  the  least  colour.  Then  add  the  bread,  milk,  stock  or  water, 
continue  the  slow  cooking  for  about  £•  of  an  hour  longer,  and  rub  the 
whole  through  a  fine  sieve.  Re-heat,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — From  2  to  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  ;d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3672.— ONION  SOUP  WITH  CHEESE.      (Fr.—  Soupe 
a  TOignon  au  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 4  medium-sized  onions  cut  into  dice,  2  ozs.  of  butler, 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  gruyere  cheese,  i  pint  of  milk,  £  a  pint  of 
white  stock  or  water,  the  crumb  of  i   or  2  slices  of  bread,  salt  and 
pepper, 

Method. — Prepare  the  soup  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Re-heat  after  sieving,  add  seasoning  to  taste,  and  sprinkle  in  the  cheese, 


HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

a  little  at  a  time,  stirring  briskly  meanwhile.     This  soup  is  in  great 
favour  with  sportsmen  in  France. 

Time. — From  2  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  gd.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3673.— PARTRIDGE,    STEWED.       (Fr.  —  Perdreaux 
Etuves.) 

Ingredients. — 2  partridges,  slices  of  fat  bacon,  4  slices  of  lemon, 
2  small  or  i  large  carrot  sliced,  i  onion  sliced,  bouquet-garni,  i  glass 
of  white  wine,  f-  of  a  pint  of  stock,  butter,  salt  and  pepper.  For  the 
sauce  :  f  of  an  oz.  of  butter,  J  of  an  oz.  of  flour. 

Method. — Place  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  small  walnut  inside 
each  bird,  truss  them,  and  cover  the  breast  first  with  2  slices  of  lemon 
and  then  with  bacon.  Have  the  stock  ready  heated  in  a  stewpan, 
put  in  the  prepared  birds,  vegetables,  bouquet-garni,  wine  and  a  season- 
ing of  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  closely,  cook  very  gently  for  i  hour, 
then  remove  the  bacon  and  slices  of  lemon,  and  brown  the  breasts  of 
the  birds  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Meanwhile,  the  flour  should  have 
been  cooked  in  f  of  an  oz.  of  butter  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown 
colour;  now  add  the  strained  stock  from  the  stewpan,  and  stir  until 
it  boils.  If  liked,  the  birds  may  be  served  garnished  with  crisply-fried 
straws  or  thin  slices  of  potato,  or  a  puree  of  mushrooms  or  green  peas. 
Serve  the  sauce  separately. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  from  53.  6d.  Sufficent  for  2  persons. 
Seasonable  from  September  to  February. 

3674. — POT-AU-FEU.     (French   Family  Soup.) 

Ingredients. — 4  Ibs.  of  brisket  of  beef,  £  a  cabbage,  2  leeks,  i  large 
onion,  2  carrots,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsely,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  chopped  parsley,  4  cloves,  12  peppercorns,  i  tablespoonful 
of  salt,  •£  a  Ib.  of  French  bread,  6  quarts  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Put  the  meat  and  water  into  a  stock  pot  or  boiling  pot, 
let  it  come  gently  to  boiling  point,  and  skim  well.  Wash  and  clean  the 
vegetables,  stick  the  cloves  in  the  onion,  tie  up  the  cabbage  and  leeks, 
and  put  all  in  with  the  meat.  Add  the  carrots  cut  into  large  pieces, 
the  bouquet-garni,  peppercorns  and  salt,  and  let  the  whole  simmer 
gently  for  4  hours.  Just  before  serving  cut  the  bread  into  thin  slices, 
place  them  in  a  soup  tureen,  and  add  some  of  the  carrot,  leeks  and  onion 
cut  into  small  pieces.  Remove  the  meat  from  the  pot,  season  the  broth 
to  taste,  and  strain  it  into  the  soup  tureen.  Sprinkle  the  chopped 
parsley  on  the  top  and  serve.  The  meat  and  remaining  vegetables 
may  be  served  as  a  separate  course ;  they  may  also  be  used  up  in  some 
form  for  another  meal.  Or  the  meat  and  vegetables  may  be  served  and 
the  broth  put  aside  and  used  on  the  following  day  as  "  Croute-au-pot." 


TYPICAL   FRENCH   DISHES  1533 

Time. — 4  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  4d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  10  or  12 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3675.— PUMPKIN  SOUP.     (Fr.— Potage  au  Potiron.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  ripe  juicy  pumpkin,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  pint  of 
boiling  milk,  i  small  stale  French  roll  very  thinly  sliced,  a  pinch  of 
sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  pumpkin  into  rather  small  pieces,  barely  cover 
them  with  slightly-salted  boiling  water,  boil  for  6  or  7  minutes,  then 
drain  well,  and  pass  through  a  sieve  or  colander.  Heat  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  pumpkin  puree,  and  let  it  remain  for  about 
10  minutes.  Now  add  the  boiling  milk,  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  then  simmer  gently  for  a  few  minutes.  Place  the 
slices  of  roll  in  the  soup  tureen,  pour  in  the  soup,  and  serve. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  ;d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3676.— SOLE,  BAKED.     (Fr.—Sole   au    Gratin.) 

Ingredients. — i  rather  large  plump  sole,  i  tablespoonful  of  bread- 
crumbs, i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  mushrooms,  i  teaspoonful 
of  finely-chopped  parsley,  |  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  fat  bacon, 
i  finely-chopped  shallot,  i  glass  of  white  wine,  and  an  equal  quantity 
of  good  stock,  butter,  brown  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  and  skin  the  sole.  Mix  the  breadcrumbs,  mush- 
rooms, parsley,  bacon,  shallot,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper 
well  together.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  flat  silver  or  fireproof  dish 
rather  thickly  with  butter,  over  which  sprinkle  £  the  prepared  season- 
ing, and  place  the  fish  on  the  top  of  it.  Cover  with  the  remainder  of  the 
seasoning,  sprinkle  lightly  with  brown  breadcrumbs,  and  add  a  few 
drops  of  oiled  butter.  Pour  the  wine  and  stock  round  the  fish,  and  bake 
from  15  to  20  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which 
it  has  been  cooked. 

Time. — To  cook,  15  to  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3677.— SOLE    A    LA    BLANCHAILLE. 

Ingredients. —  i  sole,  milk,  flour,  seasoning,  frying  fat. 

Method. — Skin  and  fillet  the  fish,  cut  the  fillets  into  very  fine  shreds, 
dip  them  into  milk  and  then  into  seasoned  flour.  Fry  in  hot  fat  to  a 
golden  brown.  Drain  and  serve. 

Time.— 20  minutes.  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  gd.  Sufficient  for  2  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


GERMAN    AND    AUSTRIAN 
;"         V     COOKERY 

CHAPTER    LII 

General  Observations  on  German  and  Austrian  Cookery, 
and  Recipes  for  Typical  German  and  Austrian 
Dishes. 

Cookery  in  Germany. — In  no  other  country  does  cookery  form  so  much 
a  part  of  advanced  education  as  in  Germany  and  Austria,  where  every 
girl,  whatever  her  position,  learns  how  to  cook,  and  not  superficially, 
as  is  too  often  the  case  in  England,  for  until  she  has  mastered  every 
branch  of  the  Subject  her  education  is  not  considered  complete.  This 
useful  preparation,  aided  by  a  complete  course  of  instruction  in  the 
general  principles  of  domestic  economy,  has  naturally  developed  the 
practical  side  of  their  character,  and  won  for  almost  every  German  and 
Austrian  woman  a  well-deserved  reputation  of  being  a  good  housewife 
or  hausfrau. 

For  some  reason  the  general  reputation  of  German  cookery  is  not 
very  high  in  this  country  :  in  fact,  not  a  few  think  that  the  German  diet 
consists  chiefly  of  boiled  beef  and  dumplings,  milk  soup,  peas  pudding, 
sauerkraut,  and  sausages.  The  recipes  given  in  the  following  chapter 
should  disabuse  the  mind  of  the  reader  of  such  an  erroneous  idea,  for 
many  useful  dishes  are  included  which  might  be  advantageously 
employed  to  vary  the  somewhat  monotonous  diet  of  the  English 
middle  classes. 

The  salads,  of  which  the  Germans  possess  an  even  greater  variety 
than  the  French,  are  extremely  good,  especially  the  salads  made  of 
fish,  either  freshly  cooked,  or  previously  smoked  or  marinaded.  In 
addition  to  an  almost  endless  variety  of  salads  of  cold  cooked  meat, 
poultry,  game,  etc.,  they  have  innumerable  salads  made  of  almost 
every  kind  of  known  vegetables,  which  include  artichokes,  beans,  beet- 
root, celery,  peas,  potatoes,  usually  plainly  boiled  and  served  with  a 
good  dressing.  Many  others  not  generally  used  in  England  find  favour 
in  Germany,  such  as  succory,  dandelion,  corn,  salmagundi,  young  hops, 
and  pickled  red  and  white  cabbage. 

1534 


TYPICAL    GERMAN    DISHES  1535 

With  the  exception  of  potatoes  and  asparagus,  plainly  dressed  vege- 
tables are  rarely  served.  The  numerous  vegetable  preparations  are 
known  under  the  name  of  Geniise,  and  many  of  them  are  altogether 
unknown  to  us.  The  German  cuisine  includes  many  original  methods 
of  dressing  potatoes.  French  beans  are  usually  boiled,  sauteed,  and 
served  with  a  rich  brown  gravy.  Both  white  and  red  cabbage  are 
shredded  finely,  tossed  in  butter  or  lard  until  partially  cooked,  and 
afterwards  stewed  very  gently  in  a  small  amount  of  rich  stock.  The 
German  and  Austrian  asparagus  is  somewhat  different  from  the  English 
and  the  French,  a  considerable  portion  of  the  stem  being  edible, 
although  this  may  be  in  some  measure  due  to  the  removal  of  the 
stringy  fibres  from  the  stalks  before  cooking. 

German  housewives  exercise  as  much  care  in  preserving  vegetables 
for  winter  use  as  in  preparing  them  for  the  table.  French  beans  and 
scarlet  runners  are  closely  packed  in  jars  :  potatoes,  turnips,  and 
other  root  plants  are  carefully  packed  in  sand  in  a  cool  cellar,  and  if 
not  allowed  to  touch  each  other  may  be  kept  for  months.  The  Ger- 
mans, like  the  French,  would  not  consider  a  dinner  complete  without 
soup :  no  matter  how  humble  the  meal  may  be,  soup  nearly  always 
forms  a  part  of  it.  They  have,  besides  the  ordinary  meat  and  vege- 
table soup,  a  sweet  milk  soup  thickened  with  flour  and  flavoured  with 
apples,  almond  soup,  chocolate  soup,  wine  soup  flavoured  with  vine 
loaves,  potato  soup  flavoured  with  prunes  or  apples,  and  a  variety  of 
fruit  soups  altogether  unknown  to  us.  Of  beef  soups  they  have  no 
less  than  8  varieties,  the  most  popular  kind  being  thickened  with 
bread  and  flavoured  with  caraway  seeds. 

Puddings  are  not  much  in  vogue  in  Germany  :  in  fact,  a  boiled 
pudding  is  seldom  seen,  and  baked  ones  are  almost  unknown.  Their 
plainer  kind  of  sweets  consist  chiefly  of  boiled  custard  or  a  mixture 
of  cake  or  bread  and  fruit,  invariably  served  cold  in  special  china 
dishes.  Of  creams,  jellies,  ice-puddings  and  ices  they  have  an  almost 
endless  variety,  and  in  this  particular  branch  of  cookery  they  may 
be  said  to  excel.  Fruit  pies  and  tarts,  such  as  we  have  here,  are 
altogether  unknown  in  Germany,  but  instead  of  these  they  have  many 
curiously  prepared  sweets  and  innumerable  fancy  cakes  not  included 
in  the  English  cuisine,  such  as  "  Sandtorte,"  "  Gugelhopf,"  "  Waffeln," 
"  Krachtorte,"  etc.  Their  bread  also  comprises  many  kinds,  from  the 
nourishing  black  bread,  "  Schwarz  brod  "  or  "  Pumpernickel,"  to  the 
delicious  little  fancy  breads.  They  have  also  milk  rolls  in  great 
varieties,  the  stringel,  long  sticks  and  long  twists,  the  surface  of  these 
being  usually  sprinkled  with  coarse  salt,  or  a  mixture  of  salt  and 
caraway  seeds. 

Fruit  of  every  kind  is  both  cheap  and  plentiful,  and  usually  of 
excellent  quality.  Every  housewife  understands  the  art  of  preserving 
fruit  in  jars,  bottles,  or  tins  for  winter  use,  but  curiously  enough  they 
seldom  make  it  into  jam. 


1536  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

The  German  Middle  Classes  rise  much  earlier  than  the  corresponding 
class  in  England,  and  usually  breakfast  between  7  and  8  o'clock.  This 
simple,  informal  meal  consists  of  rolls  and  coffee,  the  family  seldom 
sit  down  together,  each  member  partaking  of  the  meal  as  he  or  she 
makes  his  or  her  first  appearance. 

At  1 1  o'clock  there  is  a  sort  of  snatch  repast,  which  consists  of  white 
or  brown  bread,  smoked  sausages  or  cheese,  and  a  glass  of  wine  or 
lager  beer. 

The  principal  meal  of  the  day  is  the  Mittagessen  or  dinner,  which  is 
usually  served  between  12  and  i  o'clock.  It  consists  of  soup,  meat, 
either  roasted,  boiled,  or  braised,  accompanied  by  vegetables  or  salad, 
and  is  followed  by  a  compote  of  fruit  or  some  other  sweet,  or,  failing 
these,  a  little  cheese.  Light  wine  or  beer  is  nearly  always  served  with 
the  midday  repast. 

The  middle  classes  have,  instead  of  our  "  afternoon  tea,"  the  caffee- 
klatsche  or  coffee  gossip,  a  light,  informal  meal  of  coffee  and  cakes, 
which  any  number  of  uninvited  guests  may  share  ;  although  many 
housewives  of  a  humbler  class  provide  coffee  between  ^  past  3  and  4 
o'clock,  this  meal  is  by  no  means  general  with  them  :  in  fact,  as  a 
rule,  nothing  is  served  between  dinner  and  supper. 

The  Supper,  "  Nachtessen  "  or  "  Abendmahl,"  is  served  between 
7  and  8  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  may,  in  summer  time,  consist 
principally  of  the  famous  Teutonic  dish  "  dicke  Milch  "  and  fruit,  and 
at  other  times  of  a  soup  or  an  omelet,  a  dish  of  cold  meat  and  salad, 
or  some  kind  of  dressed  vegetable.  Except  among  the  upper  classes, 
late  dinners  are  not  the  rule  in  Germany,  although  the  elaborate  meals 
provided  when  friends  are  invited  are  identical  with  the  English  dinner 
in  all  but  name. 

The  Austrian-German  Cuisine  has  many  broad  features  in  common, 
although  in  many  respects  Austria  is  far  in  advance  of  Germany  and 
other  neighbouring  countries.  Providing  well-cooked  food  for  the 
masses  became  a  national  question  many  years  ago,  when  self-sup- 
porting "  People's  Kitchens  "  were  started  in  Vienna  and  other  parts 
of  the  country,  whereby  good  and  wholesome  food  was  brought  within 
the  reach  of  the  poor  and  labouring  classes  at  the  lowest  possible  prices. 

A  knowledge  of  cookery  runs  through  all  classes,  and  is  an  essential 
part  of  education.  This  knowledge,  however,  is  not  as  a  rule  acquired 
either  at  home  or  at  a  cookery  school — for  these  latter  institutions, 
which  abound  in  England  and  Germany,  are  almost  unknown  in  Austria 
— but  under  the  guidance  of  chefs  or  cooks  in  hotels  and  private 
families.  It  is  customary  for  most  Austrian  cooks  to  be  allowed  to 
receive  one  or  more  pupils,  and  although  this  may  to  us  appear  a 
peculiar  practice,  it  is  nevertheless  a  fact  that  any  one  desirous  of 
learning  the  culinary  art  must  necessarily  resort  to  this  means  to 
obtain  what  they  desire. 

The  food  materials  employed  by  the  middle  classes  of  Austria  are 


TYPICAL  GERMAN  DISHES  1537 

generally  of  an  inexpensive  description,  the  excellence  of  their  cooking 
being  chiefly  due  to  the  care  bestowed  on  the  preparation  of  the  most 
simple  substances.  They,  like  the  Germans,  rarely  serve  meat  plainly 
dressed,  their  savoury  roasts  being  a  national  institution,  like  the 
roast  and  baked  meats  of  England.  These  roasts,  which  are  identical 
with  the  braisees  of  France,  may  consist  of  meat  cooked  whole,  meat 
thickly  sliced,  or  meat  stuffed  and  rolled. 


Typical  German  Dishes 

3678.— APFEL  TORTE.     (German  Apple  Tart.) 

(Fr. — Tourte  de  Pommes.) 

Ingredients. — 10  or  12  apples,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  3  ozs.  of  almonds, 
3  eggs,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  i  small  lemon,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls 
of  moist  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream,  good  short  crust  (see  Pastry, 
No.  1667). 

Method. — Pare,  core  and  slice  the  apples.  Put  the  sugar  into  a 
basin,  add  the  cream,  lemon-rind,  the  butter  melted,  and  the  eggs 
previously  well  beaten.  Mix  well  together,  stir  in  the  sliced  apples, 
and  let  the  mixture  stand  while  the  almonds  are  being  blanched  and 
cut  lengthwise  into  strips.  Line  2  large  plates  with  paste,  place  a 
narrow  rim  of  the  same  round  the  edge,  and  fill  the  centre  with  the 
mixture.  Sprinkle  the  almonds  on  the  top,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
from  35  to  45  minutes,  and  when  done  dredge  liberally  with  castor 
sugar.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2S.  3d.  Sufficient  for  2  tarts. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3679.— BAYRISCHE   KNODEL.        (Bavarian   Dumpl- 
ings.)      (Fr. — Quenelles  Bavaroise.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  raw  or  cooked  meat,  2  ozs.  of 
breadcrumbs,  •£  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  i  or  2  eggs, 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  2  ozs.  of  butter  oiled. 

Method.— Mix  the  meat,  breadcrumbs,  herbs,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg, 
and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  well  together,  and  moisten 
thoroughly  \vith  beaten  egg.     Form  the  mixture  into  balls  of  moderate 
size,  drop  them  into  boiling  stock  or  slightly  salted  water,  cook  : 
from  10  to  15  minutes,  then  remove  the  balls  carefully  and  drain 
Serve  with  the  oiled  butter  poured  over  them,  or,  if  preferred,  pour  a 
little  good  gravy  round  them.     The  excellency  of  this  dish  depends 
on  the  mixture  being  of  proper  consistency,  therefore  an  inexperienced 

3  D 


1538  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

cook  would  do  well  to  test  a  little  of  the  mixture,  by  dropping  it  into 
boiling  water  before  forming  the  whole  of  it  into  balls. 

Time. — £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8 
persons. 

3680.— BIERSUPPE.     (Beer  Soup.) 

Ingredients. — 2  pints  German  beer,  2  slices  of  bread,  i  oz.  butter,  2 
eggs,  ginger,  caraway  seeds,  and  salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Remove  the  crust  of  the  bread,  and  divide  the  crumbly  part 
into  small  pieces.  Put  them  into  a  stewpan,  add  the  beer,  boil  up, 
whisking  meanwhile,  and  stir  in  the  ginger.  In  the  meantime  the 
caraway  seeds  should  have  been  fried  gently  in  the  butter;  now  drain 
them  well  and  add  them,  with  a  seasoning  of  salt  to  the  contents  of  the 
stewpan.  Cook  slowly  for  about  1 5  minutes,  then  pour  over  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  which  should  be  previously  well  beaten  and  placed  in  the  soup 
tureen. 

Time. — £  an  hour.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 

3681.— FLADCHEN  MIT  SPINAT.        (Pancakes  with 
Spinach).     (Fr. —  Crepes  aux  epinards.) 

Ingredients. — Spinach,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  finely-chopped  small  onion, 

1  tablespoonful  of  cream,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  pint  of  milk,  3 
eggs,  pancakes   (see  No.  3693). 

Method. — Boil  as  much  spinach  as  will,  when  finely-chopped  or  passed 
through  a  sieve,  produce  i  pint  of  puree.  Melt  the  butter  hi  a  stewpan, 
fry  the  onion  lightly,  put  in  the  spinach  and  cream,  sprinkle  in  the  flour, 
season  to  taste,  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes.  Have  ready 
some  thin  pancakes,  made  as  directed  in  No.  3693,  spread  each  one 
with  the  spinach  preparation,  roll  them  up  and  place  them  in  an  earthen- 
ware baking-dish  or  large  pie-dish.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  stir  in  the  milk, 
add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  pour  over  the  pancakes.  Bake  in  a 
moderately  hot  oven  until  the  custard  is  set,  then  serve. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3682.— FLEISCHKUCHEN.     (Meat  Pancakes.) 

(Fr. — Omelette  Allemande.") 

Ingredients. — J-  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  cold  meat,  i£  ozs.  of  butter. 

2  finely-chopped  shallots,  \  a  gill  of  gravy  or  stock,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  batter  (see  Pancakes  No.  3693),  lard. 

Method. — Fry  the  shallots  lightly  in  the  hot  butter,  sprinkle  in  the 
flour,  add  the  stock,  and  boil  well.  When  the  flour  is  sufficiently 
cooked,  add  the  meat  and  seasoning  to  taste,  and  stir  over  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes.  Make  the  batter  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  pan- 


TYPICAL    GERMAN    DISHES  1539 

Cakes,  and  pour  a  thin  layer  of  it  into  an  omelet-pan  in  which  a  little 
lard  has  been  previously  heated.  As  soon  as  it  is-  set  spread  over  it 
about  2  tablespoonfuls  of  the  meat  preparation,  and  cover  with  another 
layer  of  batter.  Now  place  the  omelet-pan  in  a  hot  oven,  bake  until 
the  batter  is  set  and  lightly  browned,  then  cut  into  convenient  portions, 
and  serve  as  hot  as  possible.  This  will  be  found  an  excellent  way  of 
disposing  of  cold  meat.  To  be  served  in  true  German  fashion,  it 
should  be  accompanied  by  some  kind  of  green  salad. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.,  exclusive  of  the  batter. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3683.— GEFULLTE  LEBER.     (Stuffed  Liver.) 

(Fr. — Foie  farcied 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  calf's  liver,  i  calf's  caul,  4  ozs.  of  fat  bacon. 
4  ozs.  of  crumb  of  bread,  3  eggs,  i  level  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped 
onion,  stock,  milk,  dripping,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  liver  thoroughly,  and  chop  it  finely. 
Cut  the  bacon  into  dice  and  fry  it  lightly,  then  add  the  onion  and  fry 
until  slightly  browned.  Put  in  the  liver,  add  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  liver  changes  colour,  then  turn  tilt- 
preparation  into  a  basin,  and  let  it  remain  until  cool.  Meanwhile, 
soak  the  bread  in  a  little  milk  until  soft,  then  squeeze  it  as  dry  a^ 
possible,  and  add  it  to  the  liver  preparation.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  and 
stir  them  well  into  the  other  ingredients.  Wash  and  dry  the  caul 
thoroughly;  with  it  line  an  earthenware  casserole,  or,  failing  this,  a  ste\\- 
pan,  put  in  the  mixture,  and  fold  the  caul  so  as  to  envelop  it  com- 
pletely. Add  a  little  dripping,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about 
£  of  an  hour.  15  minutes  before  serving  drain  off  the  fat,  add  a  little 
strong  stock,  and  baste  well.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  2d.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  five  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3684.— GEHIRNSCHNITTEN.     (Brain  Toast.) 

(Fr. — Cervelles  sur  Croutes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  calves'  brains,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  heaped  tablespoonful 
of  fine  breadcrumbs,  oiled  butter,  croutes  of  fried  or  toasted  bread, 
grated  cheese,  salt  and  pepper.  For  garnishing  :  slices  of  lemon  and 
crisp  green  parsley. 

Method. — Wash  the  brains  in  several  .waters,  blanch  them,  and 
when  cold  divide  each  one  into  4  or  more  pieces.  Heat  the  butter  in 
a  saute-pan  or  frying-pan,  fry  the  brains  lightly,  then  place  them  on 
the  prepared  croutes,  which  should  nearly  correspond  in  size.  Season 
them  with  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle  thickly  with  mixed  cheese  and 


1540  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

breadcrumbs,  and  pour  over  a  few  drops  of  oiled  butter.  Place  them 
on  a  baking  sheet  in  a  hot  oven  for  about  10  minutes,  then  serve  gar- 
nished with  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3685.— HACHIS  UND  REIS  RULLETTEN.     (Meat  and 
Rice  Rissoles.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  rice,  \  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  cold  meat,  \\  ozs, 
of  butter,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  2  finely-chopped  shallots,  \  a  gill  of  gravy, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, frying-fat,  stock. 

Method. — Wash  and  drain  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  sufficient 
stock  to  cover  it,  and  cook  until  tender,  adding  more  stock  when 
necessary,  but  not  more  than  the  rice  will  completely  absorb.  When 
ready  season  to  taste  with  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  and  spread  in  a 
thin  layer  on  a  large  dish.  Fry  the  shallots  lightly  in  the  hot  butter, 
sprinkle  in  the  flour,  add  the  stock,  and  boil  well.  Put  in  the  meat 
and  2  yolks  of  eggs,  season  to  taste,  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  turn  the  mixture  on  to  a  plate  to  cool.  Cut  the  rice  into  round 
or  oval  shapes,  spread  the  centre  of  half  of  them  thickly  with  the  meat 
mixture,  and  cover  with  the  other  portions  of  rice.  Seal  the  edges 
carefully,  coat  them  completely  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in 
hot  fat.  Dish  up  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons, 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


3686.— HERING  SALAT.     (Fr.— Salade   de  Harengs.) 

Ingredients. — 2  good  smoked  or  salted  herrings,  2  hard-boiled  eggs, 
i  cold  boiled  potato,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  \  a 
teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  onion,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil, 
i£  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  slices  of  beetroot  and 
capers  for  garnishing. 

Method. — Put  the  herrings  in  a  moderate  oven  for  2  or  3  minutes, 
so  as  to  enable  the  skins  to  be  easily  removed.  Cut  off  the  heads, 
split  the  fish  in  halves,  and  divide  into  small  pieces,  carefully  removing 
the  bones.  Place  the  onion,  parsley,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper 
in  a  salad  bowl,  stir  in  the  oil  and  vinegar,  and  mix  well.  Cut  the  eggs 
and  potato  into  small  dice,  -mix  them  and  the  flaked  fish  lightly  but 
thoroughly  with  the  salad  dressing,  and  decorate  with  the  sliced  beet- 
root and  capers. 

Time.— 15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


TYPICAL    GERMAN    DISHES  1541 

3687.— KARTOFFELN  MIT  KASE.  (Potatoes  with 
Cheese.)  (Fr.  --  Pommes  de  terre  au 

Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — Cold  potatoes,  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese, 
2  eggs,  f-  of  a  pint  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  well,  stir  in  the  milk,  and  season  the  custard 
to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Butter  a  deep  fireproof  dish,  put  in  a 
layer  of  slices  of  cooked  potato,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  sprinkle 
over  some  grated  cheese,  and  add  2  tablespoonfuls  of  the  prepared 
custard.  Repeat  until  the  dish  is  full,  and  making  the  last  layer  of 
cheese.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  £  an  hour,  and  serve  in  the 
dish. 

Time. — %  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  to  lod.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3688.— KARTOFFELSALAT.     (Potato  Salad.) 

(Fr.— Salade  de  Pommes  de  terre.) 

Ingredients. — 8  or  9  potatoes,  i  tcospoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
•£  a  teaspoonftil  of  finely- chopped  chives,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  onion,  %  a  gill  of  hot  stock,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad-oil,  i 
poonful  of  \vine  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  slices  of  pickled  beetroot 
or  cucumber. 

Method. — Boil  the  potatoes  in  their  skins,  peel  and  slice  them  thinly, 
and  place  them  in  layers  in  a  salad  bowl,  sprinkling  each  layer  with 
parsley,  onion,  chives,  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  the  oil  and  vinegar 
together,  add  the  hot  stock,  and  pour  it  over  the  salad.  Mix  lightly, 
garnish  with  beetroot  and  cucumber,  and  serve  before  the  potatoes  are 
quite  cold.  Variety  may  be  introduced  by  adding  a  finely-shredded 
marinaded  herring,  or  a  few  sardines  or  ancho\ 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or 
4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3689.— KIRSCHEN    SAUCE.     (Black    Cherry    Sauce.) 

(Fr. — Sauce  aux  Cerises.) 

Ingredients. — Dried  black  cherries  (about  £  of  a  pint),  %  a  pint  of  red 
wine,  a  thin  strip  of  lemon-rind,  2  cloves,  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon, 
£  a  gill  of  gravy,  i  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour,  salt. 

Method. — Soak  the  cherries  in  lukewarm  water  for  i  hour,  then 
drain  and  dry  them  well,  and  pound  them  with  the  stones.  Place  the 
led  preparation  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  wine,  lemon-rind,  cloves, 
cinnamon,  with  a  little  salt,  and  boil  for  2  or  3  minutes.  Mix  the  corn- 
flour and  gravy  smoothly  together,  add  it  to  the  sauce,  boil  gently 
for  3  or  4  minutes,  stirring  meanwhile,  then  strain  and  s- 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  $  pint. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1542  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3690. — LEBERKLOESSE.     (Liver  Dumplings.) 

(Fr. — Quenelles  de  Foie  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  liver,  preferably  calf's,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  2  eggs,  i  small  onion  finely-chopped,  the  finely-grated 
rind  of  \  a  lemon,  i  good  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  dinner 
roll,  or  other  bread,  soaked  in  milk,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  liver  thoroughly,  chop  it  finely,  and 
mix  with  it  the  bread,  previously  squeezed  as  dry  as  possible,  lemon- 
rind,  onion,  parsley  and  flour.  Season  to  taste  with  nutmeg,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  moisten  thoroughly  with  beaten  egg.  Add  the  egg  by 
degrees,  testing  the  mixture  by  dropping  a  little  of  it  into  boiling 
water.  When  the  proper  consistency  is  obtained,  form  into  balls 
of  moderate  size,  drop  them  into  boiling  stock  or  salted  water,  and  cook 
gently  from  15  to  20  minutes.  Serve  with  the  butter  melted  and 
poured  over  them. 

Time. — From  30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient 
for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3691.— LINZERTORTE.     (German  Gateau.) 

Ingredients. — 7  ozs.  of  fine  flour,  6  ozs.  of  pounded  or  ground  almonds, 
6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  6  ozs.  of  butter,  £  of  an  oz.  of  powdered  cinnamon, 
2  eggs,  fruit,  jam  or  marmalade. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  almonds,  sugar  and 
cinnamon,  and  mix  into  a  stiff  paste  with  the  well-beaten  eggs.  Roll 
out,  cut  into  2  rounds  about  the  size  of  a  dessert  plate,  place  them 
on  a  greased  baking-sheet,  and  spread  the  centres  rather  thickly  with 
jam,  marmalade  or  stewed  fruit,  leaving  the  edges  free.  Moisten  the 
edges,  and  put  on  them  a  border  made  out  of  the  paste-trimmings, 
place  a  few  strips  across  to  form  a  lattice  work,  brush  lightly  over  with 
milk,  and  sprinkle  liberally  with  sugar.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from 
20  to  25  minutes,  and  serve  cold. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for 
2  tarts.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3692.— MILCHBROD  SUPPE.     (Milkbread  Soup.) 

(Fr. — Soupe  au  Pain  de  Lait.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  stale  milk  rolls,  2  quarts  of  stock,  2  eggs,  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Grate  the  crusts  of  the  rolls  into  a  stewpan,  pour  in  the 
boiling  stock,  and  let  it  simmer  for  15  minutes,  stirring  frequently. 
Beat  the  eggs  until  light,  stir  them  into  the  soup,  add  nutmeg,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste,  and  whisk  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  soup  thickens, 
but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil  after  adding  the  eggs,  or  they  may  curdle. 

Time. — £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.,  exclusive  of  the  stock. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


TYPICAL   GERMAN    DISHES  1543 

3693.— PFANKUCHEN.     (Pancakes.) 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  flour,  2  eggs?  i£  gills  of  milk,  a  pinch  of  salt, 
lard  or  butter  for  frying. 

Method. — Sieve  the  flour  and  salt  into  a  basin,  beat  up  the  eggs  and 
stir  them  gradually  into  the  flour  ;  add  half  the  milk  and  beat  until 
smooth,  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  and  allow  the  batter  to  stand. 
To  fry  the  pancakes,  place  a  small  piece  of  butter  or  lard  in  an  omelet 
pan  ;  when  hot,  pour  in  sufficient  batter  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
pan.  Fry  until  one  side  is  coloured,  then  toss  and  fry  the  other  side 
a  golden  brown.  Turn  on  to  a  sugared  paper,  sprinkle  over  with 
lemon  juice,  roll  up  and  dish  on  hot  dish  on  a  lace  paper. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  4^d.  Sufficient  for  4  persons.  Season- 
able at  any  time. 

3694.— POLNISCHER  BOCK.     (Braised  Veal.) 

(Fr. — Veau  braise.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  lean  veal,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  6  ozs.  of  fat  bacon  cut 
into  dice,  the  rind  of  £  a  lemon  cut  into  dice,  6  boned  anchovies  divided 
into  short  pieces,  £  a  pint  of  stock  (about),  meat  glaze,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — The  meat  should  be  cut  into  one  flat  piece,  and  must  be 
well  beaten  with  a  cutlet-bat.  Make  small  incisions  on  the  upper 
surface  of  the  meat,  and  insert  the  dice  of  bacon,  onion,  lemon-rird 
and  anchovies.  Season  liberally  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  up  tightly, 
and  tie  securely  with  twine.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  braising-pan,  fry  the 
prepared  meat  until  lightly  browned,  then  add  any  trimmings  of  bacon, 
lemon-rind  and  onion  there  may  be,  and  the  stock,  and  cover  closely. 
Cook  gently  in  the  oven  from  2  to  2,\  hours,  basting  frequently,  and 
when  ready  remove  the  twine  and  brush  over  with  meat  glaze.  Serve 
with  good  brown  gravy. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  2  to  2\  hours.  Average  Cost,  43.  6d.  to  53. 
Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3695.— SACHER  TORTE.     (German   Chocolate  Tart.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  butter,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  4  ozs.  of  fine 
flour,  4  ozs.  of  vanilla  chocolate,  finely-grated,  8  eggs,  the  finely-grated 
rind  of  \  a  lemon,  \  a  gill  of  whipped  cream,  apricot  marmalade. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs  separ- 
ately, add  the  sugar,  grated  chocolate,  lemon-rind,  and  lastly  the  flour, 
and  beat  briskly  for  at  least  20  minutes.  Whisk  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a 
very  stiff  froth,  stir  them  into  the  rest  of  the  ingredients  as  lightly  as 
possible,  pour  the  mixture  into  round  shallow  tins,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  from  40  to  45  minutes.  When  quite  cold  spread  the 


±544  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

surface  rather  thickly  with  apricot  jam,  and  decorate   tastefully  with 
whipped  cream. 

Time. — 1£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or 
3  tarts.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3696.— SANDTORTE.      ^Sandy  Cake.) 

(Fr.— Tourte  Sablee.) 

Ingredients. — 7  ozs.  of  potato  flour  or  cornflour,  i  oz.  of  Vienna  flour, 
8  ozs.  of  butter,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  i  oz.  of  ground  almonds,  the 
whites  of  3  eggs,  the  yolks  of  2  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated 
lemon-rind,  the  juice  of  £  a  lemon. 

Method. — Clarify  the  butter  and  put  it  aside  until  lightly  set,  then 
add  the  sugar  and  beat  until  creamy  and  white'.  When  the  proper 
consistency  has  been  obtained,  beat  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the  ground 
almonds,  lemon-rind  and  lemon-juice,  and  lastly  the  flour  and  potato 
flour.  Whip  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  add  them  as  lightly 
as  possible  to  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  then  pour  the  mixture  into 
a  flat  cake  tin,  which  must  be  previously  well  buttered  and  lightly 
covered  with  cake  crumbs.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  from  35  to  40 
minutes,  and  when  cold,  glaze  with  fondant  or  other  icing  (see  No. 
3461),  and  decorate  to  taste. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  i  cake. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3697.— SCHLACHTBRATEN      OR      SAUERBRATEN. 
(A  Sour  Roast.)     (Fr. — Roti  de  Boeufaigre.) 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  beef,  fillet  or  any  lean  tender  meat,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  larding  bacon,  I  onion  sliced,  i  lemon  thinly  sliced,  the  juice 
of  \  a  lemon,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i£  gills  of  vinegar,  i  gili  of  sour 
cream  or  milk,  \  a  gill  of  stock  or  water,  i  oz.  of  loaf  sugar,  2  bay-leaves, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Trim  the  meat,  skewer  it  into  a  good  shape,  and  lard  one 
side  of  it  rather  closely.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  large  stewpan,  add  any 
trimmings  of  bacon  there  may  be,  and  fry  the  meat  until  the  entire 
surface  is  lightly  browned.  Now  sprinkle  the  flour  over  the  side  that 
is  not  larded,  and  continue  the  process  a  little  longer,  frying  the  onion 
at  the  same  time.  Add  the  stock  or  water,  vinegar,  cloves  and  bay- 
leaf,  bring  to  the  boil,  stirring  well  from  the  bottom  of  the  pan  mean- 
while, then  remove  the  stewpan  to  a  moderate  oven,  and  cook  gently 
for  about  i£  hours,  or  until  the  meat  is  quite  tender.  Place  the  sugar 
with  a  few  drops  of  water  in  a  small  stewpan,  and  cook  over  a  slow  fire 
until  it  acquires  a  deep  brown  colour,  then  add  the  sour  cream  or  milk, 
and  stir  until  well  mixed.  Take  up  the  meat,  keep  it  hot,  strain  the 
liquor,  and  add  it  to  the  cream  and  sugar,  season  to  taste,  put  in  the 
lemon-juice,  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  pour  it  over  and  round  the 


TYPICAL    GERMAN    DISHES  1545 

meat.     Garnish  with  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve  with  stewed  macaroni 
or  semolina. 

Time. — 2|  to  2^  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  6d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3698.— SUPPE  MIT  SCHINKENKLOESCHEN.      (Soup 
with  small  Ham  Dumplings.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  lean  ham,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  oz.  of  flour,  2  eggs,  2  quarts  of  clear  stock,  i  heaped  tablespoonful  of 
breadcrumbs  (about),  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  slewpan,  add  the  flour,  stir  over  the 
fire  for  3  or  4  minutes,  then  put  in  the  ham  and  the  breadcrumbs.  Beat 
the  eggs  hi  separately,  add  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  as  many 
breadcrumbs  as  will  form  the  whole  into  a  stiff  mixture.  Let  the  mix- 
ture cool,  then  shape  it  into  very  small  dumplings,  drop  them  into  the 
stock  when  quite  boiling,  and  cook  gently  for  about  1 5  minutes.  Place 
both  soup  and  dumplings  in  a  soup  tureen,  sprinkle  on  the  parsley, 
and  serve. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  iod.,  exclusive  of  the  stock.  Suffi- 
cient for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3699.— WASSERSUPPE.     (Water  Soup.) 

(Fr. — Soupe  a  1'eau.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  boiling  water,  2  eggs,  2  dessertspoonfuls  of 
flour,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
finely-chopped  chives,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  well,  stir  them  into  the  flour,  add  the  butter, 
previously  oiled,  and  beat  until  smooth.  Have  the  water  ready 
boiling  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  onion,  pour  in  the  batter,  and  whisk 
vigorously  until  boiling.  Simmer  gently  for  10  minutes,  then  sprinkle 
in  the  parsley,  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  4d.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3700.— WEISS-KOHL  MIT  WURST.       (Cabbage  with 
Sausages.)     (Fr. — Choux  au  Sausisse.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  white  cabbage,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  small  onion 
finely-chopped,  salt  and  pepper,  sausages  either  boiled  or  fried. 

Method. — Trim,  wash  and  boil  the  cabbage,  drain  and  press  it  well 
to  extract  as  much  moisture  as  possible,  then  chop  it  finely  on  a  board 
or  in  a  chopping-bowl.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onion 
lightly,  then  put  in  the  cabbage  with  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper. 
Fry  without  browning  until  the  butter  is  absorbed,  then  pile  the  cabbage 
in  a  pyramidal  form  on  a  hot  dish,  slice  the  sausages  and  arrange  thorn 


1546  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

round  the  base.  If  liked,  a  little  gravy  or  brown  sauce  may  be  poured 
round  the  dish.  Neatly-trimmed  poached  eggs  are  sometimes  put  in 
the  centre  of  the  cabbage. 

Time. — 1|  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3701.— ZWETSCHEN  SAUCE.     (Prune  Sauce.) 

(Fr. — Sauce  aux  Prunes.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  prunes,  i  glass  of  port  or  claret,  the  juice  of 
i  lemon,  the  thinly-pared  rind  of  £  a  lemon,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
cinnamon. 

Method. — Simmer  the  prunes  in  just  sufficient  cold  water  to  cover 
them  until  quite  soft,  then  remove  and  crack  the  stones  and  preserve 
the  kernels.  Replace  the  prunes  and  kernels  in  the  stewpan,  add  the 
lemon-rind  and  lemon- juice,  the  wine  and  cinnamon,  simmer  gently 
for  10  minutes,  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  If  necessary,  dilute  with 
a  little  more  wine  or  water,  and  serve  with  any  kind  of  plain  pudding. 

Time. — £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  /d.  or  8d.  Sufficient  for  £  pint  of 
sauce.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


Typical  Austrian  Dishes 

3702.— BAUMWOLLENSUPPE. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  good  brown  stock,  2  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of 
fine  flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  oiled  butter,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  pinch  of 
nutmeg. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  salt,  nutmeg,  butter  and  eggs  into  a  smooth 
batter.  Have  the  stock  ready  boiling,  strained  and  free  from  fat;  let 
the  batter  run  through  a  pointed  strainer  or  colander,  into  the  soup, 
holding  it  high  above  the  stewpan,  meanwhile  stirring  the  soup 
slowly  with  a  whisk.  Simmer  gently  for  about  10  minutes,  then  season 
to  taste  and  serve. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons..  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

37o3.— GULLASH    (GULIAS-HUS.)  (An    Austro- 

Hungarian  Dish.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  lean  tender  beef  or  veal,  2  potatoes  peeled  and 
cut  into  dice,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  4  ozs.  of  bacon  cut  into  dice,  £  a  small 
onion  finely-chopped,  i  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
caraway  seeds,  i  gill  of  brown  stock,  £  a  wineglassful  of  Madeira 
wine,  Paprika  pepper,  pepper  and  salt. 


TYPICAL   AUSTRIAN    DISHES  1547 

Method. — Remove  all  fat  and  skin  from  the  meat,  cut  it  into  dice, 
and  season  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Heat  £  the  butter  in  a  saute- 
pan  or  frying-pan,  fry  the  onion  slightly,  add  the  meat  and  cook  gently 
on  the  stove  or  in  the  oven  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Now  sprinkle 
on  the  flour,  add  the  wine,  stock  and  caraway  seeds,  and  continue  to 
cook  slowly.  Heat  the  remaining  butter,  fry  the  bacon  lightly,  then 
add  the  prepared  potatoes,  and  fry  them  until  they  acquire  a  deep 
golden-brown  colour.  Drain  well,  add  to  the  contents  of  the  saute- 
pan,  and  cook  gently  until  both  meat  and  potatoes  are  done.  Stir 
occasionally,  but  gently  so  as  not  to  break  the  potatoes,  and  when 
ready  season  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  lod.  Sufficient  for  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3704.— KAHAB.     (Fr.—  Saute  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  fillet  or  neck  of  veal,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  very 
small  onion  thinly-sliced,  £  a  lemon  thinly-sliced,  £  a  pint  of  sour 
cream,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  caraway  seeds,  salt  and  pepper.  For 
garnishing  :  slices  of  lemon  and  tufts  of  parsley. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  free  from  skin  and  bone  into  pieces  about 
2  inches  square  and  about  £  an  inch  in  thickness.  Heat  the  butter 
in  a  fireproof  earthenware  cooking  pot,  put  in  the  meat,  season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  caraway  seeds,  sliced  onion  and 
lemon,  and  fry  gently  for  10  minutes.  Now  add  the  cream,  cover 
closely,  and  cook  gently  in  the  oven  for  about  £  of  an  hour,  or  until 
tender.  Serve  garnished  with  thin  slices  of  lemon  and  tufts  of  parsley. 

Time. — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  is.  lid.  Sufficient  for  5  per- 
sons. Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3705.— KAISERSUPPE.     (Emperor  Soup.) 

Ingredients. — 2*  pints  of  white  stock,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  rice, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  £  of  a  cabbage,  i  leek,  i  carrot, 
£  a  turnip,  £  an  onion,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  the  vegetables,  shred  the  cabbage  coarsely,  and 
cut  the  rest  into  dice.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  vegetables 
slowly  for  15  or  20  minutes,  but  do  not  let  them  brown.  Wash  and 
drain  the  rice,  add  it  to  the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  also  add  the 
sugar,  and  shake  the  stewpan  over  the  fire  until  nearly  all  the 
butter  is  absorbed.  Now  add  the  stock,  cover  closely,  and  simmer 
gently  for  £  an  hour.  Season  to  taste,  sprinkle  in  the  cheese,  and 
serve.  If  preferred,  the  grated  cheese  may  be  handed  round  separ- 
ately. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  gd.  to  2s.  Sufficient  for  6  or 
7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1548  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3706.— KALBSVOEGEL.       (A  Variety  of  Veal  Olives.) 

(Fr.— Olives  de  Veau.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  lean  veal,  a  few  thin  slices  of  streaky  bacon, 
i£  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated  lemon-rind,  i  gill  of  white  stock, 
%  a  gill  of  white  wine,  meat  glaze,  mashed  potato,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  across  the  grain  into  thin  slices,  flatten  them 
with  a  cutlet-bat,  and  sprinkle  liberally  with  salt,  pepper  and  lemon- 
rind.  Place  a  thin  slice  of  bacon  on  each  piece  of  meat,  roll  up  tightly 
and  secure  with  twine.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  saute-pan,  fry  the  rolls 
until  their  entire  surface  is  lightly  browned,  then  remove  them  from  the 
pan.  Stir  in  the  flour,  fry  until  lightly  browned,  add  the  wine,  stock, 
parsley,  and  the  remaining  lemon-rind,  and  boil  up.  Replace  the  meat 
in  the  pan,  cover,  and  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes.  When  ready 
remove  the  strings,  arrange  the  rolls  on  a  bed  of  mashed  potato,  add  the 
meat  glaze  to  the  sauce,  boil  up,  and  then  strain  over  and  round  the  meat. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  25.  3d.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3707.— KASEGEBACK.    (Hot  Cheese  Fritters.) 

(Fr. — Beignets  de  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  Gruyere  cheese,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  choux  paste 
(see  p.  882),  Nepaul  pepper  or  cayenne,  salt,  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
frying-fat. 

Method. — Cut  the  cheese  into  slices  about  £  of  an  inch  thick,  and 
stamp  them  in  round  or  oval  shaped  pieces.  Coat  one  side  of  each 
piece  of  cheese  rather  thickly  with  choux  paste,  and  smooth  the  surface 
with  a  knife.  Season  the  breadcrumbs  liberally  with  salt  and  Nepaul 
pepper  or  cayenne,  coat  each  prepared  slice  of  cheese  carefully  with  egg 
and  breadcrumbs,  and  as  soon  as  the  coating  is  dry  repeat  the  process. 
Fry  in  hot  fat,  drain  well,  and  serve  as  a  savoury. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3708.— NUDELSUPPE.     (Ribbon  Macaroni  Soup.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  good  clear  brown  stock,  4  ozs.  of  flour,  2 
yolks  of  eggs. 

Method. — Add  a  pinch  of  salt  to  the  flour,  mix  into  a  stiff  paste  with 
the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  knead  thoroughly  for  not  less  than  1 5  minutes. 
Put  the  paste  aside  for  £  an  hour,  then  roll  it  out  as  thinly  as  possible, 
divide  into  oblong  pieces,  place  these  on  the  top  of  each  other,  and  cut 
into  strips  like  matches.  Shake  well  to  separate  the  strips,  spread 
them  on  white  paper,  and  let  them  remain  until  dry.  Have  ready 
the  stock  boiling,  strained,  and  free  from  fat,  drop  in  the  nudels  a 


TYPICAL   AUSTRIAN    DISHES  1549 

few  at  a  time,  boil  them  rapidly  for  about  10  minutes,  then  season  the 
soup  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3709.— WIENER  SCHNITZEL.     (Fr.— Tranches  Vien- 
noise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  lean  veal,  eggs  for  frying,  i  or  2  lemons,  clarified 
butler,  fillets  of  anchovies,  gherkins,  capers,  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
brown  sauce,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  across  the  grain  into  thin  slices,  beat  with  a 
cutlet  bat,  trim  them  neatly,  and  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Coat  the  slices  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot 
clarified  butter  until  lightly  browned  on  both  sides.  Fry  the  eggs  in 
clarified  butter,  or,  if  liked,  good  salad-oil,  then  drain  them  well, 
and  trim  them  neatly.  Heat  the  sauce,  season  to  taste,  and  add  a 
little  lemon- juice.  Dish  the  meat  either  in  a  circle  or  lengthwise  on 
a  potato  border,  place  the  eggs  on  the  meat,  and  on  each  egg  arrange 
2  or  3  small  fillets  of  anchovies.  Garnish  the  dish  with  slices  of  lemon, 
fancifully  cut  gherkin,  and  capers.  Serve  a  little  sauce  on  the  dish, 
and  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3710.— WIENER  STEAKS.     (Fr.— Filets  Viennoise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ib.  of  lean  beef,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  2  eggs,  2  onions,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful 
of  powdered  savoury  herbs,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  brown  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No.  233). 

Method. — Chop  the  meat  finely  or  pass  it  twice  through  a  mincing 
machine.  Add  the  parsley,  herbs,  a  little  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper, 
mix  well,  and  moisten  with  i  whole  egg  and  i  yolk.  Divide  the  pre- 
parations into  equal  portions,  and  shape  them  neatly,  giving  them  the 
appearance  or  rather  large  fillets  of  beef,  and  roll  them  lightly  in  flour. 
Peel  and  slice  the  onions,  divide  the  larger  slices  into  rings,  and  if  onions 
are  liked,  cut  the  smaller  slices  into  large  dice,  fry  them  in  a  little  hot 
butter,  and  when  well  drained  add  them  to  the  brown  sauce.  Fry  the 
prepared  fillets  in  a  little  hot  butter  until  nicely  browned  and  suffi- 
ciently cooked,  then  drain  and  keep  them  hot.  Coat  the  onion  rings 
with  flour,  dip  them  into  white  of  egg,  then  again  into  flour,  and  fry 
in  a,  wire  basket  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Serve  the 
steaks  garnished  with  the  onion  rings,  pour  a  little  sauce  round,  and 
send  the  remainder  to  table  in  a  sauce-boat. 

Time. — T  hour.     Average  Cost,  33.  6d.     Sufficient  for  7  or  8  p<  i 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


ITALIAN    COOKERY 


CHAPTER    LIII 

General  Observations  on  Italian  Cookery,  and  Recipes 
for  Typical  Italian  Dishes. 

Cookery  in  Italy. — The  Italians  claim  to  have  inherited  their  taste 
and  capabilities  for  good  cooking  from  the  luxurious  Romans,,  who 
were  content  to  confer  high  honours,  and  give  what  appears  to  us 
extravagantly  high  remuneration  to  those  who  could  gratify  their 
inordinate  and  fantastic  appetites.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  many  dishes 
favoured  by  the  Romans  are  still  common  in  Italy,  where  the  culinary 
art  is  said  to  have  attained  a  high  degree  of  perfection  in  the  sixteenth 
century.  As  regards  high-class  cookery,  the  reputation  has  to  some 
extent  been  maintained,  but  in  other  respects  Italy  has  not  kept  pace 
with  France,  Austria,  Germany,  and  many  other  countries. 

Travellers  who  gain  their  knowledge  solely  from  hotels  and  restaur- 
ants note  little  difference  between  Italian  and  French  cookery,  simply 
because  the  Italians,  like  ourselves,  have  not  only  borrowed  and 
adapted  much  of  the  French  cuisine,  but  also  largely  employ  cooks  of 
that  nation.  Italian  and  French  cooks  alike  are  skilful  in  providing 
a  variety  of  vegetables  in  many  tempting  forms  unknown  to  us.  In 
this  branch  of  cookery  the  Italians  may  be  said  to  excel,  the  delicious 
flavour  which  characterises  many  of  their  vegetable  preparations  being 
largely  due  to  the  introduction  of  cheese.  The  Italians  alone  appear 
to  rightly  understand  the  use  of  cheese.  A  dinner  of  many  courses 
may  have  in  each  course  a  dish  of  which  cheese  forms  a  part,  yet  though 
the  palate  is  pleased  by  the  flavour  it  imparts,  its  presence  is  not  sus- 
pected. The  Parmesan  cheese,  which  the  Italians  principally  use, 
takes  its  name  from  the  town  of  Parma,  where  it  is  made  most  exten- 
sively. The  dryness,  the  peculiar  feature  of  Parmesan  cheese,  is  secured 
by  removing  every  particle  of  cream  from  the  milk  before  converting 
it  into  cheese. 

Polenta,  risotto,  and  such  farinaceous  preparations  as  macaroni 
and  spaghetti,  may  be  said  to  be  national  foods.  Polenta  in  its  most 
simple  form  consists  of  milk  thickened  with  Indian  corn  or  maize 

1550 


TYPICAL    ITALIAN    DISHES  1551 

meal,  seasoned  with  salt,  and  cooked,  frequently  by  baking,  until 
firm.  It  may  be  served  sliced  or  neatly  arranged  on  a  dish,  but  the 
Italians,  nearly  all  of  whom  below  a  certain  class  have  little  regard 
for  the  niceties  of  life,  frequently  serve  the  polenta  on  a  wooden  platter, 
upon  which  it  is  turned  when  cooked.  From  this  slices  are  cut  off  with 
a  string;  for  it  is  as  much  against  etiquette  to  use  a  knife  to  polenta 
as  it  is  in  England  to  use  a  steel  knife  for  fish. 

Risotto  forms  part  of  the  daily  fare  of  many  Italians.  Rice  is  its 
principal  ingredient,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  recipe  for  Risotto  alia 
Milanese,  No.  3744.  Needless  to  say,  the  risotto  of  the  poorer  Italians 
is  a  much  more  simple  preparation  than  the  one  referred  to,  for  it 
often  consists  simply  of  well-cooked  rice  flavoured  with  a  little  onion 
browned  in  oil  or  butter,  and  a  good  sprinkling  of  cheese. 

Simple  as  the  process  is,  it  would  appear  that  macaroni,  spaghetti, 
and  similar  preparations  can  only  be  cooked  to  perfection  by  the 
Italians.  The  respective  pastes  are  cooked  to  a  certain  point,  then 
drained,  and  thickened  with  white  or  tomato  sauce,  or  a  mixture  of  the 
two,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  cream  and  a  touch  of  cheese.  Prepared 
by  a  skilful  Italian  cook,  these  dishes  are  perfect,  and  might  with  advan- 
tage be  more  frequently  employed  to  vary  the  monotony  of  the  English 
fare. 

Their  sauces,  although  distinctly  flavoured  with  garlic,  are  delightful, 
for  the  Italians  alone  appear  to  rightly  understand  the  use  of  this  bulb. 
Tomato  sauce  made  by  an  English  cook,  although  it  may  be  excellent 
in  many  respects,  always  lacks  that  indescribable  "  something  "  which 
the  Italians  impart  to  it. 

Meals  in  Italy. — The  brightness  of  the  sun  calls  the  Italians  from  then- 
rest  at  an  early  hour.  Like  the  French,  their  early  repast  generally 
consists  simply  of  coffee  or  chocolate  and  rolls. 

The  Collazione,  the  midday  meal  of  the  upper  classes,  is  almost  identical 
with  the  English  luncheon  or  the  French  dejeuner  a  la  fourchette, 
while  the  simple  meal  of  the  poorer  Italians  frequently  consists  of 
nothing  more  substantial  than  chocolate  or  fruit  and  bread. 

Afternoon  Tea,  the  dainty  meal  that  is  purely  English,  and  which  sel- 
dom reaches  perfection  in  any  other  country,  is  not  unknown  in  Italy, 
but  it  is  rarely  provided  except  for  English  friends  or  English  visitors. 

The  hour  of  serving  Pranzo,  the  evening  meal,  varies  just  as  it  does 
in  England  or  France,  the  masses  partaking  of  it  when  their  day's 
work  is  done,  and  the  leisured  classes  at  their  convenience  and 
pleasure. 

Food  Supply. — The  Italian  lakes  and  rivers  abound  in  almost  every 
variety  of  fish  known  to  us,  while  on  the  south  coast  many  kinds  of 
shell-fish  peculiar  to  the  country  are  found,  and  are  usually  eaten  raw, 
or  cooked  much  in  the  same  way  as  we  do  oysters. 

The  supply  of  game  is  both  abundant  and  good.  The  Italians,  like 
ourselves,  are  very  fond  of  pheasants,  partridges,  grouse,  woodcock, 


1552  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

etc.,  but  thev  have  also  a  great  weakness  for  small  birds,  a  taste  pro- 
bably hand  d  down  from  remote  ages. 

The  kid,  as  in  France,  is  very  popular;  it  is  dressed  like  lamb,  the 
brains,  sweetbread  and  tongue  all  constituting  delicate  dishes. 

Of  fruit  and  vegetables  there  is  an  abundance.  Grapes,  peaches, 
apricots,  etc.,  may  be  had  at  a  trifling  cost,  but  although  freshly 
gathered,  they  possess  little  flavour,  probably  because  they  ripen  more 
rapidly  than  English-grown  fruit. 


Typical  Italian  Dishes 

3711.— ARTICHOKES  "  ALLA  MILANAISE." 

(Fr. — Artichauts  a  la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — Globe  artichokes,  Parmesan  cheese,  butter. 

Method. — Remove  the  stalks  and  hard  leaves,  place  the  artichokes 
in  slightly  salted  boiling  water,  boil  gently  until  half  cooked,  and  drain 
them  well.  Arrange  them  in  a  single  layer  in  a  fireproof  baking-dish, 
pour  over  them  some  oiled  butter,  sprinkle  liberally  with  grated  cheese, 
and  cover  closely.  Cook  very  gently  in  the  oven  until  done,  then 
serve  with  oiled  butter,  or  any  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,4d.  to  6d.  each.  Sufficient,  allow 
i  to  each  person.  Seasonable  from  January  to  April. 

3712.— ASPARAGUS    "ALLA    CASALINGA." 

Ingredients. — Asparagus,  fresh  eggs,  butter,  grated  Pannesan  cheese, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wipe,  wash  and  trim  the  asparagus,  boil  it  gently  until  three- 
quarters  cooked,  and  drain  well.  When  ready,  place  it  in  an  earthen- 
ware dish,  pour  over  it  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  oiled  butter,  and  sprinkle 
thickly  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Season  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  and  cook  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  well  browned.  Mean- 
while, separate  the  yolks  of  eggs  from  the  whites,  taking  care  to  keep 
them  whole,  and  fry  them  in  hot  butter,  drain  free  from  fat,  place 
them  round  the  asparagus,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  asparagus  45.  to  ics.  per 
100.  Sufficient,  allow  i  egg  and  10  heads  of  asparagus  to  each  person. 
Seasonable  from  January  to  July. 

37I3._ AUBERGINE  "  AL  FORNO." 

Ingredients. — 2  aubergines  (egg-plant),  butter,  breadcrumbs,  salt 
and  pepper. 


DINNER 


A    LA    RUSSE. 


TYPICAL    ITALIAN    DISHES  1553 

Method. — Boil  the  aubergine  from  25  to  30  minutes,  or  until  tender, 
then  halve  them  lengthwise  and  remove  the  pulp  carefully,  so  as  not  to 
break  the  skin.  Pass  the  pulp  through  a  fine  sieve,  season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  in  a  little  oiled  butter.  Replace  in  the 
skins,  sprinkle  lightly  with  breadcrumbs,  add  a  few  bits  of  butter, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  nicely  browned. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.each.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 
Seasonable  from  July  to  October. 

3714.— BROAD   BEANS   "  ALLA  ROMANA." 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  young  shelled  broad  beans,  4  or  5  tomatoes 
or  £  a  tin  of  tomato  puree,  i  small  onion  finely-chopped,  4  or  5  sage 
leaves  finely-chopped,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Fry  the  onion  and  sage  leaves  in  hot  butter  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  put  in  the  beans  with  just  sufficient  boiling  water  to 
cover  them,  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  gently  until  tender. 
When  about  half  cooked  add  the  tomato  puree,  fresh  tomatoes  being 
passed  through  a  fine  sieve  to  reduce  them  to  a  pulp,  and  stir  frequently 
towards  the  end  of  the  cooking  process,  to  prevent  the  beans  sticking 
to  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Dish  up  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  id.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
6  persons.  Seasonable,  July  to  August. 

3715.— BROCCOLI     "  ALLA  PARMIGIANA." 

Ingredients. — Broccoli,  i  small  onion  finely-chopped,  4  ozs.  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  \  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No.  221),  i  yolk  of  egg,  breadcrumbs,  cayenne,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method-^.Koil  the  broccoli  in  salted  water  until  tender,  then  drain 
them.  iOd. — Rerrj  the  onion  hi  the  butter  without  browning,  add  the 
\\  hi  .  i  vide  eaclwhen  boiling  stir  in  £  the  cheese  ami  the  yolk  of  egg. 
SeaL'.i./'  stock,  or/vith  cayenne,  pepper  and  salt,  ana  stir  over  the  fire 
for  a  few  minutes.  Spread  a  little  of  the  sauce  on  the  bottom  of  a  fire- 
proof baking-dish,  arrange  the  broccoli  compactly  on  the  top  of  it, 
cover  with  the  remaining  sauce,  sprinkle  on  the  rest  of  the  cheese 
mixed  with  a  few  white  breadcrumbs,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
until  lightly  browned. 

Time. —  40  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  4 
or  5  persons.  Seasonable,  October  to  March. 

3716.— BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  "  AL  SIMONE." 

(Fr. — Choux  de  Bruxelles.) 

Ingredients. — 1£  to  2  Ibs.  of  sprouts,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of  flour, 
|  a  pint  of  stock  or  milk,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 


1554  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Trim  and  wash  the  sprouts,  boil  them  in  salted  water  until 
tender,  and  drain  well.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  flour 
for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  then  add  the  stock  and  stir  until 
boiling.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  cheese  and  lemon 
juice,  put  in  the  sprouts,  and  shake  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot. 

Time. — 20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  February. 

37I7._CABBAGE  "  AL  FORNO." 

Ingredients. — i  large  or  2  small  cabbages,  \  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No.  221),  i  or  2  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  breadcrumbs, 
butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  cabbage  until  tender,  then  chop  it  coarsely.  Place 
a  layer  at  the  bottom  of  a  fireproof  baking-dish,  cover  lightly  with 
white  sauce,  sprinkle  liberally  with  cheese,  and  season  rather  highly 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Repeat  until  the  dish  is  full,  cover  the  top 
with  a  thin  layer  of  breadcrumbs,  and  add  a  few  bits  of  butter.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  for  \  an  hour.  Dish  up  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — i  to  i|-  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

37I8.— CABBAGE    "FARCITO   ALL'    AMERICANA." 

Ingredients. —  i  large  fresh  cabbage,  \  a  Ib.  of  cooked  rice,  \  a  Ib.  of 
finely-chopped  cooked  meat,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley, 
£  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
grated  lemon-rind,  salt  and  pepper,  \  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  (see 
Sauces,  No  233). 

Method. — Thoroughly  wash  the  cabbage,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  salted  water,  boil  for  15  minutes,  then  chang'  *r,  and 

continue  to  boil  for  about  \  an  hour  longer.  Mix  tr  and 

prepared  meat  together,  add  the  parsley,  herbs,  lemon  ^  good 

seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  mix  well,  moistening  with  a  little  stock 
or  milk  if  necessary.  Dry  the  cabbage  thoroughly,  open  the  leaves, 
and  press  a  little  of  the  preparation  into  each  space.  Enclose  the 
stuffed  cabbage  in  a  large  sheet  of  greased  paper,  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  from  35  to  45  minutes,  basting  from  tune  to  time  with  hot  fat. 
Serve  with  brown  sauce. 

Time. — About  \\  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

37I9._CAULIFLOWER    "IN    STUFATO." 

(Fr. — Choufleur  farci.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  or  2  small  cauliflowers,  6  finely-chopped  mush- 
rooms, 2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  i  tablespoonful 


TYPICAL  ITALIAN  DISHES  1555 

of  lemon-juice,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  milk,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper, 
rounds  of  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Break  the  cauliflower  into  medium-sized  sprays,  boil  them 
in  salted  water  until  tender,  and  drain  well.  Meanwhile  heat  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  flour  for  3  or  4  minutes,  then  add  the  stock 
or  milk,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season  to  taste  with  nutmeg,  salt  and 
pepper,  add  the  mushrooms,  and  simmer  gently  for  a  few  minutes. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  slightly,  add  the  strained  lemon-juice,  mix  with 
the  contents  of  the  stewpan,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the 
sauce  thickens,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  reboil,  or  the  eggs  may  curdle. 
Arrange  the  sprays  of  cauliflower  compactly  on  the  prepared  toast, 
pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable,  March  to  November. 

3720.— CELERY  "  AL  FRITTO."     (Fr.— Celeri  frit.) 

Ingredients. —  i  head  of  celery,  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  frying- fat. 

Method. — Remove  the  outer  stalks,  wash  the  remainder  of  the  c 
and  cut  it  into  pieces  about   i   inch  square.     Place  in  boiling  salted 
water,  cook  for  \  an  hour,  then  drain  well.     Coat  carefully  with  ci:g 
and  breadcrumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat  until  lightly  browned,  drain  well,  and 
serve. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  sd.  to  6d.  Sufficient  for  2  or 
3  persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  February. 

3721.— CELERY  "ALLA  PARMIGIANA." 

(Fr. — Celeri  au  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 4  heads  of  celery,  stock,  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  bread- 
crumbs, butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  outer  stalks  and  the  green  part  of  the  inner 
le  each  head  into  quarters,  and  wash  them  well.  Cover  with 
boilii  -» stock,  or  failing  this,  boiling  water  and  a  little  ham  or  lean  bacon, 
season  to  taste,  boil  until  tender,  and  drain  well.  Place  a  single  layer 
of  celery  at  the  bottom  of  a  fireproof  baking-dish,  sprinkle  liberally 
with  cheese,  add  a  little  seasoning,  and  repeat  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Sprinkle  the  surface  thickly  with  equal  parts  of  cheese  and  breadcrumbs, 
and  pour  over  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  oiled  butter.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  until  well  browned,  then  s« 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  celery  3d.  per  head.  Sufficient  for 
8  or  10  persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  February. 

3722.— COD,  ALLA  NAPOLETANA. 

(Fr. — Cabillaud  a  la  Napolitaine.) 

Ingredients. — 6  slices  of  small  cod,  4  ozs.  of  butter.  12  button  mush- 
rooms, preferably  fresh  ones,  a  bouquet  of  mixed  herbs,  £  of  a  pint  of 


1556  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Marsala.  For  the  sauce  :  2  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  raw  ham,  f-  of  an  oz. 
of  butter,  2  shallots  finely-chopped,  4  button  mushrooms  finely-chopped, 
i  clove,  i  bay-leaf,  £  of  a  pint  of  Marsala,  %  of  a  pint  of  good  stock, 
£  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce  (see  Sauces,  Nos. 
233  and  282). 

Method. — Let  the  slices  of  cod  lie  in  salt  and  water  for  i  hour,  then 
drain  and  dry  well.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  large  stewpan,  fry  the  cod 
until  lightly  browned  on  both  sides,  add  the  12  mushrooms,  the  herbs, 
and  the  £  of  a  pint  of  Marsala,  cover,  and  cook  gently  from  15  to  20 
minutes,  or  until  the  fish  is  sufficiently  cooked.  Meanwhile,  fry  the 
ham,  shallots  and  mushrooms  in  f-  of  an  oz.  of  butter  slowly  for 
10  minutes,  then  add  the  Marsala,  stock,  clove  and  bay-leaf,  and  boil 
rapidly.  When  reduced  to  about  half  the  original  quantity  add  the 
brown  and  tomato  sauces,  make  thoroughly  hot,  then  strain  and  serve 
in  a  sauce-boat.  Dish  up  the  fish  and  serve  with  the  sauce. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  to  43.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  February. 

3723.— CROQUETTES  OF  CHESTNUTS. 

(Fr. — Croquettes  de  Matrons.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  chestnuts,  |-  of  a  pint  of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of 
creme  patisserie  (see  No.  1738),  essence  of  vanilla,  castor  sugar,  egg 
and  breadcrumbs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Peel  and  scald  the  chestnuts,  take  off  the  inside  peel,  boil 
them  until  tender,  and  pass  through  a  sieve.  Put  the  chestnut  puree 
into  a  small  stewpan,  stir  in  the  cream  and  creme  patisserie,  mix  well 
over  the  fire,  then  add  vanilla  essence  to  taste,  and  turn  the  preparation 
on  a  plate  to  cool.  When  firm  enough  to  handle,  form  into  cork-shaped 
croquettes,  coat  carefully  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot 
fat.  Drain  well,  and  serve  sprinkled  with  castor  sugar. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  5  or 
6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3724.— CUCUMBERS  «  FARCITI."     (Fr.— Concombres 
ferais.) 

Ingredients. — 2  medium-sized  cucumbers,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
chopped  cooked  chicken  or  veal,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped 
cooked  ham,  i  tablespoonful  of  breadcrumbs,  i  egg,  salt  and  pepper, 
brown  breadcrumbs,  stock,  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  233). 

Method. — Remove  the  peel  as  thinly  as  possible,  divide  the  cucumbers 
in  halves,  and  scoop  out  the  seeds.  Mix  the  meat,  ham,  breadcrumbs 
and  a  little  salt  and  pepper  well  together,  moisten  with  i  egg,  and  fill 
the  cavities  of  the  cucumbers  with  the  preparation,  piling  it  rather  high 
in  the  centre.  Sprinkle  thickly  with  brown  breadcrumbs,  place  them 


TYPICAL   ITALIAN    DISHES  1557 

in  a  baking-tin,  surround  them  to  half  their  depth  with  stock,  and  bake 
until  tender,  adding  more  stock  from  time  to  time.  Serve  with  brown 
sauce. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient,  6  to  8 
persons.  Seasonable,  May  to  September. 

3725.— FRENCH  BEANS  "ALLA  CREMA." 

(Fr. — Haricots  verts  a  la  Crime. ) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  French  beans,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  egg,  £  of  a  pint 
of  cream  or  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  grated  cheese, 
nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — String  the  beans,  cover  them  with  boiling  slightly-salted 
water,  boil  until  three-quarters  cooked,  and  drain  well.  Heat  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  beans  and  let  them  cook  slowly  until  done, 
shaking  frequently  meanwhile.  Beat  the  egg,  stir  in  about  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  cheese,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  the  lemon- 
juice.  Stir  or  shake  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — 20  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  beans  6d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  6  persons.  Seasonable,  July  to  October. 

3726.— HARICOT     BEANS      "  ALLA      MILANESE." 

(Fr. — Haricots  a  la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  green  haricot  beans,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  finely-chopped  parsley,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Boil  the  beans  in  salted  water  until  tender,  and  drain  them 
well.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  parsley,  lemon-juice  and 
a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  put  in  the  beans,  and  shake  them 
over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot.  Dried  beans  may  be  used  instead 
of  fresh  ones,  in  which  case  they  must  be  soaked  for  at  least  12  hours. 

Time. — 30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable,  May  to  August. 


j  j 


3727.— HARICOT    BEANS  "  ALLA    ROMANA.1 

(Fr. — Haricots  blancs  a  la  Romaine.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  small  dried  haricot  beans,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
i  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped  lean  ham  or  bacon,  either  raw  or 
cooked,  i  large  onion  cut  into  small  dice,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock  or  milk, 
I  tablespoonful  of  lemon-juice,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Soak  the  beans  for  at  least  12  hours,  cook  them  in  salted 
water  until  tender,  then  drain  well.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
fry  the  onion  until  lightly  browned,  then  add  the  ham  or  bacon,  and 
cook  for  2  or  3  minutes  longer.  Now  put  in  the  stock  or  milk,  add  a 


1558  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

good  pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  stir  in  the  beans. 
Shake  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot,  then  serve. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable,  May  to  August. 

3728.— ITALIAN  MACARONI  PIE. 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  Ib.  of  cold  beef,  or  mutton,  %  an  onion,  3  or  4 
tomatoes,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  breadcrumbs,  grated  cheese,  stock, 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg. 

Method. — Cut  the  beef  or  mutton  into  thin  slices,  peel  the  onion  and 
slice  it  thinly,  slice  the  tomatoes,  and  boil  the  macaroni  in  slightly 
salted  water  until  tender.  Cool  and  drain  the  macaroni,  and  cut  it 
up  into  small  pieces.  Line  a  buttered  baking  dish  with  macaroni  and 
arrange  the  meat,  onion  and  tomato  slices  in  layers  on  the  baking 
dish.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  pour  over  a  little  stock, 
and  cover  the  top  with  macaroni.  Sprinkle  over  some  breadcrumbs 
and  grated  cheese,  and  bake  for  about  20  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

Time. — To  bake,  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  Sufficient  for  4  or 
5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3729.— LARKS  IN  ONIONS. 

(Fr. — Mauviettes  aux  Oignons.) 

Ingredients. — 12  larks,  6  Spanish  onions  of  equal  size,  £  a  Ib.  of  veal 
forcemeat  (see  Forcemeats,  No.  413),  2  or  3  fowls' livers,  3  or  4  slices  of 
bacon,  i  pint  of  stock  (about),  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed 
herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  233),  glaze. 

Method. — Blanch  the  fowls'  livers,  chop  them  finely,  add  the  herbs, 
season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  with  a  little  stock. 
Clean  and  bone  the  larks,  and  stuff  them  with  the  prepared  forcemeat. 
Cover  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  with  slices  of  bacon,  place  the  larks  on 
them,  just  cover  with  stock,  and  cook  gently  for  about  15  minutes. 
Meanwhile  peel  and  blanch  the  onions,  dry  them  thoroughly,  and  cut 
them  in  halves  across.  Remove  the  greater  part  of  the  inside,  spread 
a  good  layer  of  the  forcemeat,  and  place  i  lark  hi  each  case  thus  pre- 
pared. Cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
about  £  an  hour,  then  glaze  and  serve  with  brown  sauce. 

Time.— About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  43.  6d.  to  55.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  10  or  12  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

373o.— LEEKS   "AL   FORNO."     (Fr.— Poireaux.) 

Ingredients. — From  12  to  18  leeks,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  dessertspoonful 
of  grated  cheese,  i  yolk  of  egg,  £  a  pint  of  hot  white  sauce  (see  Sauces), 
salt  and  pepper. 


TYPICAL   ITALIAN    DISHES  1559 

Method. — Trim  the  leeks,  divide  them  into  pieces  about  2  inches  long, 
and  let  them  remain  in  cold  water  for  i  hour.  Have  ready  a  saucepan 
of  salted  boiling  water,  cook  the  leeks  until  tender,  and  again  immerse 
them  in  cold  water.  Let  them  remain  for  at  least  I  hour,  then  drain 
and  dry  thoroughly,  and  place  them  in  an  earthenware  baking-dish. 
Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  drain  and  add  the  leeks,  cook  gently 
for  TO  minutes,  then  add  the  hot  white  sauce,  cheese,  yolk  of  egg,  and  a 
good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  well,  pour  over  the  leeks, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  brown. 

Time. — 34  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  oxi.  to  2s.  ^d.  Sufficient  for  6  to 
9  persons,  Seasonable  at  any  time, 

3731.— LETTUCE  SOUP.       (Fr.— Soupe  aux  Laitues.) 

Ingredients. — 3  pints  of  stock,  i  or  2  heads  of  lettuce,  according  to 
size,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  i  dessertspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  outer  leaves,  separate  the  rest,  wash  them 
well,  and  shred  them  finely.  Wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  the  stock  when 
boiling,  and  season  to  taste.  Boil  gently  for  10  minutes,  then  add  the 
prepared  lettuce  gradually,  so  as  not  to  reduce  the  temperature  of  the 
stock  below  boiling  point,  and  continue  to  cook  slowly  for  20  minutes 
longer.  Add  the  cheese,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  4d.,  exclusive  of  the  stock. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  perons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3732. — LOMBARD  SOUP.     (Zuppa  Lombarda.) 

(Fr. — Potage  a  la  Lombardoise.) 

Ingredients. — 2  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  2  ozs.  of  fowl's  liver,  2  ozs. 
of  lamb's  sweetbread,  2  ozs.  of  mushrooms,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  truffle,  i  egg,  spinach  puree,  lobster  spawn,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  cooked  tips  of  asparagus,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  green  peas, 
2  quarts  of  boiling  consomme,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Pound  the  liver,  suet,  sweetbread,  and  mushrooms  until 
smooth,  add  ng  the  egg  gradually,  season  to  taste,  and  pass  through 
a  sieve.  Add  the  truffle,  divide  the  forcemeat  into  3  equal  portions, 
add  a  little  lobster  spawn  to  one,  colour  the  second  green  with  spinach 
puree,  and  leave  the  third  plain.  Form  into  small  quenelles,  and  poach 
in  a  little  boiling  stock  until  firm.  Drain  and  place  in  a  soup  tureen, 
put  in  the  asparagus  tips  and  the  peas,  pour  in  the  consomme,  and 
serve. 

Time. — £  of  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  6d.,  exclusive  of  the 
consomme.  Sufficient  for  le  or  12  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1560  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3733._MACARONI  "  AL  LATTE."        (Fr.— Macaroni 
au  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — f-  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  3^  ozs.  of  butter,  £  an  oz.  of  flour, 
i£  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  i  oz.  of  grated  GruySre  cheese, 
i£  pints  of  milk,  breadcrumbs,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Parboil  the  macaroni  in  salted  water,  then  drain  it  well. 
Melt  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  and  cook  the  flour  for  3  or  4 
minutes,  add  the  milk,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Season  to  taste,  put 
in  the  Gruyere  cheese  and  macaroni,  cook  gently  until  the  milk  is  nearly 
absorbed,  then  stir  in  the  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  the  remaining 
butter.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  baking-dish,  cover  lightly  with 
breadcrumbs,  add  a  few  bits  of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
until  nicely  browned. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3734.— MACARONI  "  ALLA  NAPOLETANA." 

(Fr. — Macaroni  a  la  Napolitaine.) 

Ingredients. — f  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  %  of  a  Ib.  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  \  an  oz.  of  tongue  shredded,  6  mushrooms  shredded,  2  truffles 
shredded,  \  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  \  a  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  Sauces, 
Nos.  282  and  222). 

Method. — Boil  the  macaroni  in  salted  water  until  tender,  and  drain 
it  well.  Place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the  white  and  tomato  sauces, 
add  the  prepared  cheese,  truffles  and  mushrooms,  shake  over  the 
fire  for  about  10  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3735-— PEAS    "ALL1     ANTICA."      (Fr.  —  Pois    aux 
Laitues.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  young  shelled  peas,  i  head  of  crisp  lettuce, 
4  ozs.  of  butter,  i  yolk  of  egg,  |  a  pint  of  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  cream 
or  milk,  castor  sugar,  salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  tie  up  the  lettuce,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the 
peas,  butter,  water  and  a  little  salt,  cook  from  15  to  20  minutes,  or 
until  the  peas  are  tender,  then  remove  the  lettuce  and  keep  it  hot. 
Mix  the  yolk  of  egg  and  cream  together,  add  the  preparation  to  the 
contents  of  the  stewpan,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put 
in  a  good  pinch  of  sugar.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then 
pour  over  the  lettuce,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s.  6d,  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable,  Auprust  to  September. 


TYPICAL    ITALIAN    DISHES  1561 

3736.— PEAS    "AL    BUON    GUSTO."        (Fr.—  Petits 
Pois  au  Beurre.) 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  shelled  peas,  i£  ozs.  of  butter,  \  an  oz.  of 
flour,  3  slices  of  onion,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Parboil  the  peas  in  salted  water,  and  drain  them  well. 
Fry  the  slices  of  onion  in  the  butter  until  brown,  then  take  them  out 
and  stir  in  the  flour.  Cook  gently  for  3  or  4  minutes,  then  put  in  the 
peas,  add  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir  gently  for  about  10 
minutes.  Add  the  stock,  cover  closely,  and  let  the  pan  stand  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  until  the  peas  are  tender,  stirring  occasionally,  but  very 
gently,  as  the  peas  should  be  kept  whole. 

Time. — 30  to  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  23.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable,  August  to  September. 

3737._PHEASANT   ALLA   NAPOLETANA. 

(Fr. — Faisan  a  la  Napolitaine.) 

Ingredients. — i  pheasant,  larding  bacon,  8  ozs.  of  macaroni,  6  ozs.  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato 
puree,  £  a  pint  of  good  gravy  (see  Gravies),  Napolitana  sauce  (see  Cod, 
alia  Napoletana,  No.  3722),  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Parboil  the  macaroni,  drain  it  well,  replace  it  in  the  stew- 
pan  with  the  butter  and  gravy,  and  cook  slowly  until  tender.  Season 
to  taste,  add  the  tomato  puree  and  cheese,  and  make  thoroughly  hot. 
Meanwhile  lard  the  breast  of  the  pheasant  in  close  rows,  roast  it  in 
front  of  the  fire  from  £  to  i£  hours,  according  to  size,  then  divide  it 
into  neat  joints.  Turn  the  macaroni  on  to  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the 
pheasant  on  the  top  of  it,  and  serve  the  sauce  separately. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  £  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  pheasant,  from 
35.  6d.  Sufficient,  4  to  6  persons.  Seasonable,  October  to  February. 

3738.— POLENTA    "ALLA    BOLOGNA." 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  sausages,  i  Ib.  of  Indian  corn  meal,  i  pint  of 
boiling  water,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato  puree,  grated  Parmesan  cheese, 
butter,  salt  and  pepper,  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Stir  the  polenta  gradually  into  the  boiling  water,  add  salt 
to  taste,  stir  until  smooth,  and  let  it  cool.  Put  the  sausages  into  boiling 
water,  cook  them  for  10  minutes,  and  when  cool,  remove  the  skins 
and  cut  them  into  slices.  Place  a  layer  of  polenta  at  the  bottom  of  a 
fireproof  baking-dish,  cover  with  a  layer  of  sausages,  add  a  little  tomato 
puree,  a  good  sprinkling  of  cheese,  and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper. 
Repeat  until  the  dish  is  full,  cover  lightly  with  breadcrumbs,  add  a  few 
bits  of  butter,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  £  an  hour,  and  serve 
hot. 

Time. — From  50  to  60  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1562  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3739._POLENTA  «  ALLA  PARMIGIANA." 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  Indian  corn  meal,  i  pint  of  boiling  water,  grated 
Parmesan  cheese,  oiled  butter,  salt. 

Method. — Stir  the  meal,  a  little  at  a  time,  into  the  boiling  water, 
add  salt  to  taste,  cook  over  the  fire  until  perfectly  smooth,  then  spread 
on  a  dish  in  a  layer  about  \  an  inch  thick.  When  quite  cold  cut  into 
strips  or  small  squares,  pile  in  layers  on  a  buttered  baking-dish,  sprinkle 
each  layer  liberally  with  cheese,  pour  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  oiled 
butter  over  the  whole,  and  bake  for  about  \  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Serve  hot. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  6d.  to  9d.     Sufficient  for  3  or 

4  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3740.— POLENLINA    "ALLA   VENEZIANA." 

Ingredients. — 2  tablespoonfuls  of  Indian  corn  meal,  3  ozs.  of  butter, 
2^  pints  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  fried  croutons. 

Method. — Mix  the  meal  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  milk,  stir  it  into 
the  rest  of  the  milk  when  quite  boiling,  and  continue  to  stir  and  cook 
for  20  minutes.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  stir  in  the  butter,  a 
small  piece  at  a  time,  and  serve  with  the  fried  croutons. 

Time. — About  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3741.— PUREE      "ALLA      SOUBISE."      (Fr.~  Puree 
d'Oignons.) 

Ingredients. — 4  Spanish  onions,  £  a  pint  of  haricot  beans,  3  ozs.  of 
butter,  stock,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper,  fried  croutons. 

Method. — Boil  the  haricot  beans  until  tender,  and  rub  them  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Cut  the  onions  into  dice,  fry  them  in  butter  until  soft, 
but  without  browning,  then  pass  them  through  a  sieve.  Place  both 
onion  and  haricot  purees  in  a  stewpan,  add  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  a  season- 
ing of  salt  and  pepper,  and  dilute  gradually  with  stock  until  the  desired 
consistency  is  attained.  Boil  gently  until  quite  smooth,  then  serve 
with  croutons  of  fried  bread. 

Time. — About    ij  hours.      Average   Cost,    lod.   to   is.     Sufficient  for 

5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3742. -RICE    "ALLA   CASALINGA."      (Fr.-^-Riz   au 
Jambon.) 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  rice,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  lean  ham  or  bacon  cut  into 
dice,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i£  pints  of  stock,  £  of  a  pint  of  tomato  puree, 
sausages. 


TYPICAL    ITALIAN    DISHES  1563 

Method.— Wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  salted  boiling  water,  boil  rapidly 
for  7  rainut  es,  then  strain  and  let  it  cool.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
fry  the  ham  or  bacon  sligritly,  then  add  the  stock  and  bring  to  boiling 
point.  Season  to  taste,  put  in  the  rice,  cook  gently  until  the  stock  is 
absorbed,  then  stir  in  the  tomato  puree,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and 
serve  garnished  with  fried  sausages. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


3743._RICE    "ALLA    TOMATO."      (Fr.—  Riz    aux 
Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  rice,  £  a  pint  of  tomato  puree,  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  breadcrumbs,  i  small  onion  finely-chopped,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  I  egg, 
i  yolk  of  egg,  i  pint  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  large  saucepan  of  salted  boiling 
water,  boil  rapidly  for  6  or  7  minutes,  then  strain.  Have  the  milk 
ready  boiling  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the  rice,  season  to  taste  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  cook  gently  until  the  milk  is  absorbed.  Mix  in  half 
the  butter  and  the  egg,  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  pile 
on  a  dish  in  the  form  of  a  circular  or  oval  border.  Smooth  with  a  hot 
wet  knife,  brush  over  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  brown  in  a  moderate  oven. 
In  the  meantime  heat  the  remaining  butter,  fry  the  onion  until  lightly 
browned,  add  the  tomato  puree  and  breadcrumbs,  and  season  to  taste. 
Stir  over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve  in  the  centre  of  the 
rice  border. 

Time.— About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3744.— RISOTTO    "ALLA    MILANESE."       (Fr.— Riz 
a  la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  rice,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i|  ozs.  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese,  i  small  onion  finely-chopped,  6  button  mushrooms  finely- 
chopped,  3  pints  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  drain  and  thoroughly  dry  the  rice.  Heat  the 
butter,  fry  the  onion  brown,  add  the  rice  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  lew 
minutes.  Add  half  the  stock,  boil  quickly  for  20  minutes,  then  cover 
the  pan  closely  and  let  the  contents  cook  slowly.  Add  the  remaining 
stock  by  degrees,  and  when  nearly  the  whole  of  it  is  absorbed,  stir  in 
the  cheese,  and  sea  on  to  taste.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  serve.  If  liked,  grated  cheese  may  be  served  separately. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.,  exclusive  of  the  stock. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1564  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3745.     SALAD    "  ALLA  FRANCESE."       (Fr.— Salade 
Frangaise.) 

Ingredients. — 9  small  firm  tomatoes,  |  a  head  of  celery,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  stiffly-whipped  cream,  i  tablespoonful  of  tomato  puree,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of  castor  sugar,  lettuce. 

Method. — Pour  boiling  water  over  the  tomatoes,  let  them  remain  for 
2  minutes,  then  remove  the  skins,  and  scoop  out  the  seeds.  Place 
them  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until  quite  cold,  and  meanwhile  shred  the 
celery  finely,  and  mix  with  it  the  lemon-juice,  sugar,  tomato  puree 
and  cream.  Fill  the  centre  of  each  tomato  with  this  preparation, 
piling  it  rather  high,  arrange  the  tomatoes  on  a  dish  on  a  bed  of  shredded 
lettuce,  then  serve. 

3746.— SALAD    "ALL'    ITALIANA."         (Fr.— Salade 
Italienne.) 

Ingredients. — i  large  carrot  sliced,  i  turnip  sliced,  2  large  cold  boiled 
potatoes  sliced,  i  beetroot  cut  into  strips,  i  finely-chopped  shallot, 
%  of  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  sauce,  No.  201,  or  stiffly-whipped  cream 
flavoured  with  lemon- juice  or  vinegar,  watercress. 

Method. — Cook  the  slices  of  carrot  and  turnip  in  a  little  stock  until 
tender,  drain  them  well,  and  when  quite  cold  mix  with  the  prepared 
potato  and  beetroot.  Add  the  shallot,  stir  in  the  mayonnaise  of 
cream,  garnish  with  watercress,  then  serve. 

Time. — From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3747.— SALAD    "ALLA   MACEDONE."     (Fr.— Salade 
a  la  Macedoine.) 

Ingredients. — i  cooked  beetroot  cut  into  dice,  3  tablespoonfuls  of 
cooked  French  beans,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked  peas,  i  cooked  carrot 
shredded,  \  a  head  of  celery  shredded,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon- juice, 
mayonnaise  sauce. 

Method. — Cook  the  vegetables  separately,  taking  care  to  keep  them 
unbroken.  When  quite  cold  mix  them  well  together,  sprinkle  in  the 
lemon-juice,  stir  in  the  mayonnaise  as  lightly  as  possible,  then  serve. 

Time. — 20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable,  July  to  October. 

3748.— SPINACH    CROQUETTES.        (Fr.— Croquettes 

d'Epinards.) 

Ingredients. — 4  or  5  Ibs.  of  spinach,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper,  frying  batter  (see  Apple  Fritters,  p.  979),  frying-fat. 

Method. — Wash  and  pick  the  spinach,  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  just 
sufficient  water  to  prevent  it  burning  at  the  bottom,  and  cook  until 


TYPICAL    ITALIAN    DISHES  1565 

tender.  Drain  well,  chop  finely,  and  if  convenient,  pass  it  through  a 
sieve.  Place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the  butter,  add  a  good  pinch  of  nut- 
meg, and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  add 
the  eggs  previously  beaten,  and  continue  to  stir  and  cook  until  the 
puree  thickens.  When  quite  cold,  form  the  preparation  into  cork- 
shaped  pieces,  dip  them  into  the  prepared  batter,  and  fry  in  hot  fat 
until  crisp  and  lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  as  hot  as 
possible. 

Time. — From  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable,  March  to  December. 

3749.— SPINACH  "  IN  RICCIOLI."     (Fr.— Rissolettes 
cTEpinards.) 

Ingredients. — 3  eggs,  spinach  puree  (see  Spinach  Croquettes,  Xo. 
3748 ),  olive-oil,  butter,  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  well,  mix  with  them  enough  spinach  to  make 
them  green,  and  season  to  taste.  Heat  a  little  oil  in  a  small  frying- 
pan,  cover  the  bottom  with  a  very  thin  layer  of  the  egg  preparation, 
fry  lightly,  then  toss  or  turn  and  cook  the  other  side.  Repeat,  and 
when  all  is  fried,  place  the  pancakes  one  above  the  other,  and  cut  them 
into  sections  or  wide  strips.  Fry  them  lightly  in  hot  butter,  and 
sprinkled  with  clu 

Time. — £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable,  -March  to  December. 

3750.— SPINACH      PUDDING.  (Fr.  -  -  Pouding 

aux  'Epinards.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  spinach,  £  a  Ib.of  veal  forcemeat,  2  ozs.  of  butter, 
3  yolks  of  eggs,  £  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce.  No.  177,  salt  and 
pepper,  brown  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  233). 

Method. — Pick  and  wash  the  spinach,  boil  until  tender  in  a  saucepan 
with  just  sufficient  water  at  the  bottom  to  prevent  it  burning,  then 
chop  finely,  and  pass  through  a  sieve.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan, 
add  the  spinach  puree,  yolks  of  eggs  and  Bechamel  sauce,  and  season 
to  taste.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  thickens  slightly,  then 
let  it  cool,  and  add  the  forcemeat.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  mould, 
cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  steam  gently  from  35  to  45  minutes. 
Unmould,  and  serve  with  good  brown  sauce. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  gd.  to  2s.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable,  March  to  December. 

3751.— SPINACH  SOUFFLE.  (Fr.— Souffle  d'Epinard.) 

Ingredients. — i  a  pint  of  spinach  puree,  3  whites  of  eggs,  2  yolks  of 
eggs,  salt  and  popper. 


1566  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Prepare  the  puree  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  Spinach  Cro- 
quettes, No.  3748.  After  passing  through  the  sieve,  place  it  in  a  small 
stewpan,  season  to  taste,  then  add  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  the  puree  thickens.  Let  it  become  quite  cold,  add  the  whites 
of  eggs  stiffly-whisked,  stir  them  in  as  lightly  as  possible,  and  half  nil 
china  or  paper  ramakin  cases  with  the  preparation.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven 
until  set,  then  serve  as  quickly  as  possible. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  8  ramakins.  Seasonable,  March  to  December. 

3752._TOMATOES    "ALL'    INDIANA." 

(Fr.— Tomates  a  Tlndienne.) 

Ingredients. — 10  ozs.  of  rice,  f  of  a  pint  of  tomato  puree  (either  tinned 
or  made  by  passing  tomatoes  through  a  fine  sieve),  breadcrumbs, 
butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  large  saucepan  of  salted  boiling 
water,  boil  rapidly  for  10  minutes,  then  drain  well.  Put  a  layer  of 
rice  at  the  bottom  of  a  well-buttered  baking-dish,  cover  with  tomato 
puree,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Repeat  the  layers,  cover  the 
surface  rather  thickly  with  breadcrumbs,  and  add  a  fe.w  bits  of  butter. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  40  minutes,  and  serve  in  the  dish. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3753._TOMATOES      "AL      PANE."          (Fr.— Baked 
Tomates.) 

Ingredients. — 6  or  8  firm  tomatoes,  breadcrumbs,  butter,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Slice  the  tomatoes  rather  thickly,  place  them  in  a  fireproof 
dish  with  alternate  layers  of  breadcrumbs,  each  layer  being  liberally 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  the  breadcrumbs  well  moistened 
with  oiled  butter.  Let  the  top  layer  consist  of  breadcrumbs  moistened 
with  butter.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  from  35  to  40  minutes, 
and  serve  in  the  dish. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3754-—  TOMATOES    "CON    NOVA."      (Fr.— Tomates 
au,  Fromage.) 

Ingredients. — 4  firm  tomatoes,  an  equal  number  of  fresh  eggs,  cooked 
spaghetti,  white  sauce,  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  off  the  tops  of  the  tomatoes,  scoop  out  the  greater  part 
of  the  pulp,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  break  i  egg  into  each. 


TYPICAL    ITALIAN    DISHES  1567 

Replace  the  tops,  place  the  tomatoes  in  a  baking-dish,  and  cook  gently 
until  the  eggs  are  set.  Heat  the  white  sauce,  add  the  cooked  spaghetti, 
cheese,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  make  thoroughly  hot.  Place  the 
spaghetti  in  a  hot  dish,  dish  the  tomatoes  on  the  top,  then  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3755.— TURBOT  "  ALL'  ITALIANA." 

(Fr.— Turbot  a  1'Italienne.) 

Ingredients. —  I  medium-sized  turbot,  button  mushrooms  cooked  and 
glazed,  prawns,  truffles,  i  pint  of  Allemande  sauce  (see  Sauces,  No.  174), 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  puree  of  tomatoes,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Let  the  turbot  lie  for  i  hour  in  salt  and  water,  then  rub 
the  white  side  with  cut  lemon,  put  it  in  a  pan  with  seasoned  water,  and 
cook  gently  till  done.  Make  the  Allemande  sauce  as  directed,  add  the 
tomato  puree,  parsley  and  lemon-juice,  and  stir  in  a  few  bits  of  butter 
just  before  serving.  When  ready,  drain  the  fish  well,  serve  garnished  with 
mushrooms,  prawns  and  slices  of  truffle,  and  hand  the  sauce  separately. 

Time. — From  35  to  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  12  persons  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3756._TURKEY  "  ALLA  MILANESE." 

(Fr. — Dinde  a  la  Milanaise.) 

Ingredients. —  i  turkey,  £  a  Ib.  of  sausages,  £  a  pint  of  chestnuts  boiled 
and  peeled,  8  French  prunes  scalded,  halved  and  the  stones  removed, 
4  pears  pared  and  quartered,  i  glass  of  white  wine,  slices  of  bacon, 
butter,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Parboil  the  sausages,  and  when  cool  remove  the  skins  and 
cut  into  slices.  Heat  from  i£  to  2  ozs.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  the 
chestnuts,  prunes  and  pears,  and  add  the  liver  of  the  turkey,  previously 
blanched  and  coarsely  chopped.  Fry  gently  for  a  few  minutes,  then 
drain  well  from  the  butter,  add  the  wine,  and  stuff  the  breast  of  the 
turkey  with  this  preparation.  Cover  the  breast  with  slices  of  hot 
bacon,  baste  well  with  hot  butter  or  fat,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  about  2  hours,  basting  frequently. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  i£  to  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  Turkey,  from 
6s.  6d.  Sufficient,  a  small  turkey,  8  persons.  Seasonable  from  September 
to  February. 

3757.— VENETIAN  SOUP.     (Brodetto  Veneziano.) 

This  is  a  rich  beef  broth,  mixed  with  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  lemon- 
juice  and  served  with  thinly  cut  slices  of  French  rolls,  previously 
baked. 


SPANISH  COOKERY 

CHAPTER    LIV 

General  Observations  on  Spanish  Cookery,  with  Recipes 
for  typical  Spanish  Dishes. 

THE  food  supply  of  Spain  as  regards  meat  and  fish  is  less  abundant 
than  that  of  many  other  European  countries.  Little  pasturage  is  to  be 
found  in  the  entire  breadth  of  the  country,  consequently  dairy  products 
are  scarce  and  butter  is  almost  unknown.  The  flesh  of  cattle  two  years 
old,  which  is  something  between  veal  and  beef,  but  tougher  than  either, 
is  the  most  common  meat.  Poultry  is  very  lean,  rather  tough  and 
very  expensive.  Such  vegetables  as  cabbage,  marrows,  beans,  peas, 
and  lettuce  are  plentiful,  but  carrots,  parsnips  and  broad  beans  are 
only  grown  in  private  gardens  and  are  more  or  less  regarded  as  lux- 
uries. 

In  southern  Spain,  where  women  live  in  almost  Oriental  seclusion, 
men  sell  the  produce,  and  the  markets  are  filled  with  their  loud  voices 
as  in  excitable  tones  each  man  offers  grapes,  figs,  pomegranates,  olives 
and  oranges  at  a  lower  price  than  his  neighbour. 

In  the  north  the  markets  are  more  picturesque,  for  the  produce  is 
sold  by  the  straight-featured  Basque  women  who  come  in  from  the 
neighbouring  farms.  The  produce  consists  principally  of  fruit  and 
vegetables,  which  they  pile  in  long  rows  and  decorate  with  flowers. 
The  little  bunches  of  pink,  yellow,  purple  and  red  flowers  are  arranged 
without  the  least  regard  to  colour,  yet,  nevertheless,  have  a  bright 
and  pleasing  effect. 

Housekeeping  in  Spain  is  primitive  and  cooking  a  very  simple  affair. 
Every  family  buys  just  enough  potatoes  or  beans  each  day  for  one 
dinner,  cooks  and  eats  them  all,  and  the  next  day  docs  the  same  thing 
over  again.  The  kitchens  are  almost  bare  of  utensils  with  which  to 
cook.  Even  rolling  pins  and  bread  boards  are  unknown,  for  both  bread 
and  pastry  are  obtained  from  the  bakery.  The  bread,  by  the  way,  is 
close  grained,  its  almost  solid  condition  being  due  to  the  excessive 
kneading  it  receives. 

Notwithstanding  the  limited  markets  and  the  primitive  methods  of 
cooking  many  of  their  frugal  national  dishes  are  extremely  palatable. 
The  most  distinctively  Spanish  dish,  "  berga,"  appears  as  the  first 

1568 


TYPICAL    SPANISH    DISHES  1560 

course  of  every  dinner,  and  for  the  poor  comprises  the  entire  meal. 
It  is  made  of  corned  beef,  sausage,  or  pork  boiled  with  peas,  beans, 
cabbage  and  squash,  or  indeed  any  other  vegetable  in  season,  and  stewed 
all  together  in  one  vessel,  usually  an  earthenware  pipkin.  Amongst 
the  wealthy,  carrots,  turnips  and  tomatoes  are  added  to  the  meat,  or 
game  and  poultry,  whilst  the  peas  and  lentils  give  place  to  rice.  This 
stew  is  almost  identical  with  Olla,  the  daily  stew  of  the  Portuguese. 

3758.— ESTOFADO.     (Stewed  Chicken.) 

Ingredients. — The  remains  of  cooked  chicken  cut  into  dice  (about 
2  heaped  tablespoonfuls),  2  large  potatoes  cut  into  dice,  i  slice  of  toasted 
bread  cut  into  dice,  i  tablespoonful  of  raisins,  2  tomatoes,  i  green 
pepper  finely  shredded,  J  of  a  pint  of  wine  or  vinegar,  i  oz.  of  lard,  salt. 

Method. — Halve  the  tomatoes,  squeeze  out  all  the  juice  and  cut 
them  into  dice.  Place  the  chicken,  potatoes,  toast,  raisins,  tomatoes 
and  green  pepper  in  a  stew-jar,  add  a  good  seasoning  of  salt,  the  wine 
or  vinegar,  and  as  much  water  as  is  needed  to  barely  cover  the  whole. 

Place  the  lard  on  the  top  in  small  pieces,  cover  closely,  and  stew  gent  ly 
for  about  i-l  hours.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — To  cook  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient 
for  2  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3759.— TOREGAS   PAR   EL   DES   AYUNO.     (Spanish 
Fritters.) 

Ingredients. — 4  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  3  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  syrup 
(see  p.  1050),  cinnamon,  salt,  lard. 

Method.     Mix  the  flour,  eggs,  milk  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt 
smooth  batter,  and  let  it  stand  for  an  hour.     Make  a  syrup  as  dii 
and  to  it  add  a  liberal  flavouring  of  cinnamon.      Heat  the  lard,  put  in 
the  batter  a  spoonful  at  a  time  and  fry  gently  until  crisp  and  lightly 
browned.     Tlv*   syrup  is   usually  poured  over  bef«>rr   ^Tvin-.   but  if 
preferred  it  may  be  handed  separately. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3760.— TORTILLA  BUNURLOS.     (Spanish  Wafers.) 

Ingredients. — }  a  Ib.  of  flour,  water,  syrup  (*te  p.  1050).  cinnamon, 
salt. 

Method.  Makr  ihr  -,ynip  AS  directed,  and  add  a  liberal  flavouring  of 
cinnamon.  To  the  flour  add  a  good  pinch  of  salt  and  cold  water 
gradually  until  a  smooth  rather  soft  dough  is  formed.  Take  a  piece  of 
dough  about  the  size  of  a  small  egg  and  slap  it  from  hand  to  hand  until 
as  thin  as  a  wafer.  Bake  in  a  moderately  cool  oven  until  crisp,  pour 
the  syrup  over  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  sd.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1570  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

3761.— TORTAS  DE  HUENO.     (Egg  Savoury.) 

Ingredients. — 5  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese,  i  oz.  of  lard, 
10  red  peppers,  salt. 

Method. — Scrape  the  fibres  from  the  peppers,  boil  the  peppers  in  a 
little  water  for  15  minutes  or  until  soft,  then  drain  and  chop  them  finely. 
Separate  the  yolks  from  the  whites  of  eggs,  and  whip  the  latter  to  a 
stiff  froth.  Heat  the  lard,  add  the  chopped  peppers  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  the  water  in  which  they  were  boiled,  cheese,  yolks  of  eggs,  and  salt  to 
taste.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  2  or  3  minutes,  then  add  the  whites  a  spoon- 
ful at  a  time  and  stir  very  gently  until  cooked.  To  be  eaten  with  meats. 

Time. — about  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  jd.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3762.— COLACHE.     (Vegetable  Stew.) 

Ingredients. — i  green  squash,  6  tomatoes,  i  large  onion  cut  into  dice, 
i  green  pepper  finely  shreded,  i  oz.  of  lard,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  squash  into  pieces  about  one  inch  square.  Halve  the 
tomatoes,  squeeze  from  them  all  the  juice  and  cut  them  into  dice. 
Place  the  squash,  tomatoes,  onion,  green  pepper,  lard,  and  a  good  seasoning 
of  salt  in  a  stew- jar,  and  add  water  to  barely  cover  the  whole.  Cover 
closely  and  cook  gently  for  about  one  hour. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3763.— TORTAS  DE  LANGOSTA.     (Lobster  Fritters.) 

Ingredients. — i  lobster  (or  a  tin  of  lobster  of  a  good  brand),  4  eggs,  i 
heaped  tablespoonful  of  flour,  cayenne,  salt,  lard  for  frying. 

Method. — Divide  the  lobster  into  very  fine  flakes.  Beat  the  eggs 
lightly,  add  them  gradually  to  the  flour,  season  liberally  with  salt  and 
cayenne  and  stir  in  the  lobster.  Have  the  lard  ready  heated,  put  in  the 
preparation  a  tablespoonful  at  a  time,  and  fry  slowly  until  crisp  and 
lightly  browned. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  2S.  6d.  Sufficient  for  4 
or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3764.— CERBOLLA CON TOMATE.  (Stewed  Tomatoes.) 

Ingredients. — 6  large  tomatoes  sliced,  2  large  onions  cut  into  dice,  i 
green  pepper  finely  chopped,  i  oz.  of  lard,  salt. 

Method. — Heat  the  lard,  fry  in  it  the  onion  and  pepper  until  the 
onion  is  lightly  browned  and  add  the  tomatoes.  Season  to  taste  with 
salt,  cover  closely  and  cook  gently  for  about  \  hour. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  pd.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


JEWISH  COOKERY 

CHAPTER    LV 
General  Remarks  and  Recipes  for  Passover  Dishes 

As  a  race  the  Jews  have  derived  an  incalculable  benefit  from  the  re- 
markable and  wisely  conceived  hygienic  code  which  formed  an  essential 
part  of  the  religious  life  of  the  Hebrew  nation.  This  comprehensive 
scheme  for  the  regulation  of  social  and  domestic  affairs  includes  rules 
for  the  selection  and  preparation  of  food,  which  is  divided  into  two 
classes,  "  clean  "  and  "  unclean,"  the  latter  being  prohibited.  Among 
the  "  unclean  "  foods  are  pork,  eels,  and  mud-loving  fish  :  the  pig 
from  its  indiscriminate  feeding  being  liable  to  internal  and  external 
parasitical  diseases,  especially  in  warm  climates.  Fish  also  suffer  from 
parasites  and  rapidly  decompose,  particularly  the  fat,  indigestible 
mud-fish. 

The  Mosaic  code  takes  cognizance  of  the  danger  to  health  which 
arises  from  the  consumption  of  unsound  food,  and  minute  regulations 
are  laid  down  for  the  examination  and  slaughtering  of  animals,  it  being 
required  that  the  butcher  should  be  a  priest,  a  trained  expert,  wlu>sc 
duty  it  is  to  this  day  to  examine  all  cattle  before  they  are  slaughtered 
and  reject  the  "  unclean."  The  animals  are  killed  in  accordance  with 
a  strict  ritual,  one  of  the  chief  points  being  the  removal  of  the  blood, 
which  modern  science  has  shown  often  contains  malignant  microbes, 
and  a  potent  cause  of  corruption  and  disease.  Certain  parts  of  the 
carcass,  chiefly  the  digestive  organs,  which  are  commonly  eaten,  the 
Jews  reject,  losing  indeed  some  gastronomic  pleasure,  but  escaping 
risks  which  in  hot  climates  are  very  real.  Not  only  the  carcasses, 
but  the  various  joints  are  stamped  by  the  priest  with  his  official  seal 
before  they  are  delivered  for  consumption. 

Apart  from  these  precautions  for  the  safety  of  the  general  public, 
there  are  various  domestic  rules  designed  to  secure  the  wholesomeness 
of  the  food  eaten  by  the  Jews.  For-example,  certain  joints  are  soaked 
in  cold  water  to  extract  all  traces  of  blood  :  fish  must  be  cleansed  with 
the  most  scrupulous  care  both  inside  and  outside.  Methods  of  cooking 
are  also  prescribed  in  certain  cases.  Fish  and  other  classes  of  food 
must  be  fried  in  oil — a  sound  gastronomic  and  hygienic  rule,  for  the 


1572  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

oil  before  being  fit  for  use  must  be  raised  to  a  high  temperature  to 
ensure  thorough  cooking  and  the  retention  of  the  savour  of  the  viand, 
which  thus  becomes  completely  sterilized.  The  Jewish  smoked  beef 
is  most  excellent  and  useful,  for  it  keeps  good  so  long,  and  is  a  capital 
store  for  gravies  and  soups. 

There  are  many  interesting  dishes  peculiar  to  special  feasts  and  fast- 
days,  but  in  all  the  directions  given  for  these,  it  will  be  noticed  that 
cleanliness  and  health  are  regarded  as  the  essential. 


Passover  Dishes. 

3765.— AMNASTICH. 

Ingredients. — i  chicken,  veal  forcemeat,  No.  413,  i  quart  of  white 
stock,  i  Ib.  of  Carolina  rice,  i  Spanish  onion  stuck  with  3  or  4  cloves, 
a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf),  4  yolks  of  eggs,  the  juice 
of  i  large  lemon,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Stuff  the  chicken  with  forcemeat  and  truss  it  for  boiling. 
Wash  and  well  drain  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  large  stewpan  with  the  stock, 
bring  it  slowly  to  boiling  point,  and  add  the  onion,  bouquet-garni,  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Cook  slowly  until  the  rice  begins  to  soften,  then 
add  the  chicken,  cover  it  well  with  rice,  and  continue  to  cook  slowly 
until  done.  Remove  the  chicken  and  keep  it  hot,  take  out  the  onion 
and  bouquet-garni,  and  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  eggs  and  the  lemon 
juice.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve  the  rice,  etc., 
piled  round  the  chicken. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  9d.  to  43.  3d.,  exclusive  of 
the  stock.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3766.— FILLETS  OF  SALMON  FRIED  IN  BUTTER. 

Ingredients. — 1£  Ibs.  of  salmon,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
parsley,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  shallot  or  onion,  |  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed  herbs,  flour,  frying-batter  (see  No. 
1647),  frying-oil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Divide  the  salmon  into  slices  about  2  inches  square  and 
rather  more  than  £  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  roll  them  in  flour  seasoned 
with  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Make  the  batter,  add  to  it  the  onion, 
parsley,  herbs,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  pepper,  and  dip  in  the  pieces  of 
fish.  If  available,  fry  them  in  a  deep  pan  of  oil  ;  if  not,  heat  a  good 
layer  of  oil  in  a  saute-pan  or  a  good  sized  frying-pan,  and  cook  the  fish 
until  well  browned  on  both  sides.  Serve  cold. 

Time. — 40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  from  February  to  August. 


PASSOVER   DISHES  1573 

3767.— FISH,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  Ibs.  of  white  fish,  i  onion  finely-chopped,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  i  pint  of  water,  i  tablespoonful  of  finely -chopped  parsley, 
ground  ginger,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper.  For  the  balls  :  £  a  Ib.  of 
fish  liver  (or  equal  parts  of  liver  and  fish)  finely  chopped,  2  ozs.  of  bread- 
crumbs, i  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  i  egg,  ginger,  nut- 
meg, pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  For  the  sauce  :  the  juice  of  3  lemons, 
2  eggs,  a  pinch  of  saffron. 

Method. — Cook  the  onion  in  the  oil  without  browning,  drain  off  the 
oil,  leave  three  parts  of  the  onion  in  the  stewpan,  and  put  aside 
the  rest.  Mix  together  the  ingredients  for  the  balls,  add  the  onion 
taken  out  of  the  stewpan,  ginger,  nutmeg,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste, 
form  into  small  balls,  and  roll  them  lightly  in  flour.  Divide  the  fish 
into  conveniently  shaped  pieces,  place  them  in  the  stewpan,  add  the 
water,  parsley,  and  a  good  sprinkling  of  ginger,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper. 
Lay  the  balls  on  the  top,  cover  closely,  and  stew  very  gently  until  the 
fish  is  done.  Beat  the  2  eggs,  strain  over  them  the  lemon- juice,  pour 
this  over  the  fish  a  few  minutes  before  serving,  and  afterwards  stir 
occasionally,  but  do  not  let  it  actually  boil,  else  it  will  curdle. 
When  ready,  transfer  the  fish  to  a  hot  dish  and  garnish,  then 
place  the  balls  round  the  base,  stir  the  saffron  into  the  sauce,  and 
serve  strained  over  the  fish. 

Time. — About  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  9d.  per  Ib.  Sufficient 
for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3768.— FISH  STEW,  BROWN. 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  salmon,  mackerel  or  any  other  oily  fish,  3  medium- 
sized  sliced  onions,  6  ozs.  of  golden  syrup,  ?d.  worth  of  gingerbread, 
|  a  pint  of  cold  water,  i£  gills  of  vinegar,  cayenne,  salt. 

Method. — Cook  the  onions  in  the  water  until  barely  tender,  then  add 
the  fish,  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste.  Crumble  the  gingerbread,  pour 
over  it  the  vinegar,  stir  until  smooth,  and  add  the  golden  syrup.  When 
the  fish  is  about  half-cooked  add  the  above  mixture,  and  continue  to 
cook  slowly  until  done,  stirring  frequently  meanwhile.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  fish.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  more  persons. 

3769.— FISH,  TO  FRY. 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  Ibs.  of  fish  (haddock,  cod,  or  whiting),  i  egg, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  salt,  frying-oil,  fried  parsley. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  lish  (bone  it  it  liked),  and  cut  it  into 
pieces  convenient  for  serving.  Sprinkle  liberally  with  salt,  let  it 
remain  for  15  minutes,  then  dry  well  on  a  cloth,  and  dip  it  first  into 
flour,  and  afterwards  into  beaten  egg.  Fry  in  a  deep  pan  of  hot  oil 
until  nicely  browned,  or,  if  more  convenient,  in  a  frying-pan  containing 


1574  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

sufficient  oil  to  half  cover  the  fish,  which  must  be  turned  when  the 
under  side  is  brown.     Drain  well,  and  serve  garnished  with  parsley. 

Time. — To  fry  the  fish,  from  6  to  10  minutes,  according  to  its  size  and 
thickness.  Average  Cost,  4d.  to  8d.  per  Ib.  Allow  2  Ibs.  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

377o.— FRIED  SALMON. 

Ingredients. — 2  slices  of  salmon,  about  i|-  inches  thick,  i  egg,  flour, 
salt  and  pepper,  salad  oil. 

Method. — Wash  the  fish  in  cold  water,  dry  it  well  on  a  cloth,  sprinkle 
both  sides  of  each  slice  with  salt,  let  them  remain  for  £  an  hour,  then  fold 
them  in  a  clean  cloth  and  press  gently  to  remove  all  moisture.  Season 

1  good  tablespoonful  of  flour  with  salt  and  pepper,  coat  the  fish  com- 
pletely, and  dip  it  into  beaten  egg.     During  this  process  heat  some 
salad  oil  in  a  saute  or  frying-pan  and  then  put  in  the  fish,  and  fry  it  until 
well  browned  on  both  sides.     Drain  thoroughly,  and  serve  cold. 

Time  — i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  33.  Sufficient  for  4  persons. 
Seasonable  from  February  to  August. 

377I._FRIMSEL  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  best  stock,  i  egg,  flour,  salt. 

Method. — Add  a  little  salt  to  the  egg,  and  stir  in  as  much  flour  as 
possible.  Knead  well,  roll  out  as  thin  as  a  wafer,  and  divide  it  into 
three  strips.  Put  these  aside  until  thoroughly  dry,  then  place  the  strips 
one  above  the  other,  and  shred  finely.  Then  put  them  into  the  stock 
when  boiling,  simmer  from  20  to  25  minutes,  remove  the  scum,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  paste,  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
from  2d.  to  3d.,  exclusive  of  the  stock.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3772.— GRIMSLICHS. 

Ingredients. — 2   motzas    (Passover  cake),    4   ozs.    of   meal    (motza), 

2  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  2  ozs.  of  stoned  raisins,  2  ozs.  of  sultanas, 
4  ozs.  of  brown  sugar,  2  eggs,  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  frying-oil. 

Method. — Soak  the  motzas  while  the  rest  of  the  ingredients  are  being 
prepared,  then  squeeze  them  dry,  and  stir  in  the  meal  and  i  egg.  Beat 
the  remaining  egg,  and  add  to  it  the  almonds,  raisins,  sultanas,  sugar, 
and  a  little  cinnamon  and  nutmeg.  Take  up  a  little  of  the  motza 
paste  with  a  spoon,  form  it  into  an  oval  shape,  add  a  little  of  the  fruit 
mixture,and  cover  with  paste.  Smooth  it  carefully,  roll  lightly  in  the  motza 
meal,  and  fry  in  hot  oil  until  nicely  browned.  Serve  with  fruit  syrup. 

Time. — To  fry  the  Grimslichs,  from  8  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
icd.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 


PASSOVER   DISHES  1575 

3773.— INVALID'S  JELLY. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  lemon  or  orange  juice  (or  half  of  each),  £  a 
pint  of  cold  water,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  6  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  -£  an  oz.  of 
vegetable  isinglass  (Iceland  moss  may  be  substituted). 

Method. — Dissolve  the  isinglass  in  the  water,  add  the  sugar  and  lemon- 
juice,  and  let  the  mixture  cool  slightly.  When  ready,  add  the  yolks 
of  eggs  well-beaten,  pour  into  a  mould  previously  rinsed  with  cold 
water,  and  put  aside  until  firm.  When  a  less  acid  jelly  is  required, 
equal  parts  of  lemon  and  orange  juice  may  be  preferred  to  lemon-juice, 
or,  water  may  replace  a  part  of  the  lemon-juice. 

Time. — To  make  the  jelly,  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  to  is.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  a  pint  mould.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3774.— JACOB  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  fruit  jam  or  marmalade,  3  or  4  slices  of  bread 
and  butter,  2  eggs,  i  pint  of  milk,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  bread  and  butter  into  fingers,  spread  them  thickly 
with  jam  or  marmalade,  and  place  them  lattice-fashion  in  a  buttered 
pie-dish.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  the  milk,  and  pour 
the  whole  slowly  over  the  bread,  etc.  Let  the  dish  stand  covered 
for  at  least  i  hour,  then  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  40  minutes, 
and  serve. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  /d.  to  oxl.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3775.— MEAT  BAKED  WITH  RICE  AND  POTATOES. 

Ingredients.— 3  Ibs.  of  beef  or  mutton,  4  Ibs.  of  potatoes,  £  a  Ib.  of  rice, 
dripping,  salt  and  pepper,  i  pint  of  boiling  water. 

Method. — Wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  baking-tin  with  the  boiling 
water,  add  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  cook  in  the  oven  until  nearly  all 
the  water  is  absorbed.  Wash,  peel  and  halve  the  potatoes,  place  them 
on  top  of  the  rice,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  little  drip- 
ping. Place  the  meat  on  a  trivet  in  the  tin,  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  replace  in  the  oven,  and  cook  gently  until  done.  The  rice  may 
be  served  on  the  dish  with  the  meat,  but  the  potatoes  should  be  served 
in  a  vegetable  dish. 

Time. — To  cook  the  meat,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  /£d.  to  lod. 
per  Ib.  Sufficient  for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3776.— MEAT,  TO  PREPARE  FOR  COOKING. 

Cover  the  meat  with  cold  water,  let  it  remain  for  £  an  hour,  then 
wash  it  well,  to  remove  as  much  of  the  blood  as  possible.  Place  it  on  a 
kosherin^  board,  or,  if  the  perforated  wooden  draining  board  known 


1576  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

by  this  name  is  not  available,  use  a  basket-lid,  placed  in  a  slanting 
position,  to  allow  the  water  to  drain  away  more  freely.  When  suffi- 
ciently drained,  sprinkle  every  part  of  the  meat  with  coarse  salt,  let  it 
remain  for  i  hour,  then  remove  the  salt  by  washing  the  meat  3  times 
under  the  tap.  Drain  it  thoroughly  on  a  clean  cloth,  and  afterwards 
cook  in  the  usual  manner. 

Liver  must  be  cut  open  and  well  washed  in  cold  water,  and  may  be 
fried  on  a  shovel  over  the  fire.  Before  being  cooked,  it  must  be  again 
washed  and  sprinkled  with  salt. 

Hearts,  before  being  placed  in  the  water,  must  be  cut,  to  allow  the 
blood  to  flow  out  easily. 

Fat  for  clarifying,  or  Suet,  must  first  have  the  skin  removed,  and  then 
be  subjected  to  the  same  washing,  salting  and  drying  processes  de- 
scribed for  preparing  meat. 

3777.— MOTZA   KLEIS   (FOR  SOUP). 

Ingredients. — I  motza  (Passover  cake),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  meal 
(motza),  i  onion  coarsely  chopped,  i  egg,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground 
ginger,  butter  or  dripping,  salt  and  pepper.' 

Method. — Soften  the  motza  in  cold  water,  then  squeeze  dry.  Brown 
the  onion  in  a  little  hot  butter  or  fat,  stir  it  into  the  motza,  add  the  egg 
well  beaten,  ginger,  also  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  lastly  the  meal. 
Shape  into  small  balls,  roll  them  lightly  in  meal,  and  add  them  to  the 
soup  when  boiling.  Boil  gently  from  20  to  25  minutes,  then  serve. 

Time. — To  cook  the  balls,  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d. 
Sufficient  for  about  i  quart  of  soup. 

3778.— MOTZA  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 2  motzas  (Passover  cakes),  2  tablespoonfuls  of  meal 
(motza),  4  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  suet,  4  ozs.  of  stoned  raisins,  4  ozs.  of 
sultanas,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  eggs,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed 
spice,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  rum,  if  liked. 

Method. — Mix  the  dry  ingredients  well  together,  beat  and  add  the 
eggs,  and  stir  in  the  rum.  Turn  into  a  greased  basin,  and  steam  or 
boil  from  3  to  4  hours.  Or,  turn  the  mixture  into  a  greased  pie-dish, 
and  bake  gently  for  about  40  minutes. 

Time. — To  steam  or  boil  the  pudding,  from  3  to  4  hours.  Average 
Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 

3779._PANCAKES. 

Ingredients. —  i  teacupful  of  meal  (motza),  3  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  eggs,  the 
rind  of  i  lemon  finely  grated,  i  pint  of  milk,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
ground  cinnamon,  butter  or  fry  ing-oil,  salt. 


PASSOVER   DISHES  1577 

Method. — Break  the  eggs  into  the  flour,  mix  well,  adding  the  milk  gradu- 
ally until  about  half  of  it  is  used,  then  beat  well.  Stir  in  the  sugar, 
lemon-rind,  cinnamon  and  salt  to  taste,  add  the  rest  of  the  milk,  and 
put  aside  for  at  least  i  hour.  Fry  in  hot  butter  or  oil,  then  serve  plainly, 
or  with  lemon  and  sugar. 

Time. — To  fry  each  pancake,  from  2  to  3  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons. 

3780.— PEAS  AND  KLEIS. 

Ingredients. — £  a  peck  of  green  peas,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  ±  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  sugar,  i  pint  of  thick  batter  (see  "  Yorkshire  Pudding,"  No.  1930), 
%  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  ginger,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Make  the  batter  as  directed,  and  when  ready  to  use,  add  the 
parsley  and  ginger,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Shell  the  peas,  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  containing  sufficient  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  add 
the  sugar  and  a  little  salt,  boil  gently  until  soft,  then  pour  away  nearly 
all  the  water.  Add  the  butter,  pour  the  batter  on  the  peas  in  tablespoon- 
fuls,  bring  gently  to  boiling  point,  then  simmer  from  25  to  30  minutes. 

Time. — To  cook  the  batter,  from  25  to  30  minutes.  Average  Cost, 
peas,  9d.  to  is.  6d.  per  peck.  Sufficient,  allow  \  a  peck  to  2  or  3  persons. 
Seasonable,  English  peas  from  June  to  August 

3781.— ROSINA  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  suet  finely  chopped,  4  ozs.  of  peeled  and  chopped 
apples,  4  ozs.  of  sultanas  or  currants  cleaned,  4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs. 
of  sugar,  the  rind  of  £  a  lemon  finely  chopped  or  grated,  2  eggs,  i  quince 
finely  chopped  (this  may  be  omitted),  a  good  pinch  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  dry  ingredients  well  together,  moisten  them 
with  the  eggs  (previously  beaten),  and  turn  the  whole  into  a  well-greased 
basin.  Cover  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  steam  from  2^  to  3  hours.  If 
more  convenient  the  pudding  may  be  covered  with  a  cloth  and  be  boiled 
or  steamed. 

Time.— From  3  to  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  oxl  to  icd.  Sufficient  for  5 
or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3782.— SASSAFRAS. 

Ingredients. — 2d.  of  sassafras,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  aniseed,  £  an  inch 
of  stick  liquorice,  £  a  pint  of  boiling  water. 

Method. — Put  all  the  ingredients  into  a  jug,  cover,  let  it  stand  for  i 
hour,  then  strain.  When  a  fine  strainer  is  not  available  the  liquorice 
and  aniseed  should  be  tied  in  a  piece  of  muslin  and  afterwards  removed. 

Time. — i  hour.     Average  Cost,  3d.     sufficient  for  i  pint. 


1578  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3783.— STEWED   STEAK   WITH  RICE  AND  TOMA- 
TOES. 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  beefsteak,  £•  of  a  Ib.  of  tomatoes  (preserved  ones 
will  serve),  \  an  oz.  of  butter  or  fat,  2  ozs.  of  rice,  I  large  onion  sliced,  i 
pint  of  boiling  water,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Fry  the  onion  in  the  butter  or  fat  until  lightly  browned. 
Cut  the  steak  into  pieces  convenient  for  serving,  fry  them  slightly  and 
add  the  boiling  water,  a  small  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  little  pepper. 
Cover  closely,  and  cook  as  gently  as  possible  from  2^  to  3  hours.  Wash 
and  drain  the  rice,  and  add  it  to  the  preparation,  about  i  hour  before 
serving.  Raw  tomatoes  should  be  halved  and  added  \  an  hour  before 
serving,  but  preserved  ones  require  rather  less  cooking.  The  stewpan 
should  be  shaken  occasionally,  or  its  contents  stirred  to  prevent  burning. 

Time. — From  2^  to  3  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  8d.  Suffi- 
cient for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3784.— VANILLA  BREAD  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — Stale  bread,  \\  ozs.  of  sugar,  2  large  or  3  small  eggs, 
i  pint  of  milk,  vanilla  essence,  salt. 

Method. — Remove  the  crust  from  a  thick  slice  of  bread,  which  should 
weigh  about  4  ozs.  when  trimmed.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  sugar  and 
a  pinch  of  salt,  and  vanilla  essence  to  taste.  Boil  the  milk,  pour  it 
over  the  eggs,  etc.,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Place  the  bread, 
cut  into  thin  slices,  in  a  well-buttered  pie-dish,  pour  the  preparation  over 
it,  cover,  let  it  remain  for  at  least  i  hour,  then  bake  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven  until  it  is  set  and  the  surface  nicely  browned.  The  pudding  may  be 
served  either  hot  or  cold,  and  may  be  easily  turned  out  if  this  method 
of  serving  is  desired. 

Note. — If  milk  bread  is  available  this  pudding  will  be  much  lighter 
and  more  tasty. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour  Average  Cost,  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4 
persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


AUSTRALIAN  COOKERY 


CHAPTER    LVI 

The  Cookery  in  Australia  is  of  course  English  in  character,  while  in  the 
hotels  the  French  cuisine  plays  a  prominent  part  just  as  it  does  here. 
The  various  dishes  which  are  peculiar  to  the  country  are  those  obtained 
from  animals  and  fruits  indigenous  to  the  soil,  such  as  Kangaroo- tail 
Soup. 

The  Food  Supply  of  Australia  is  excellent  and  abundant.  In  the 
towns  the  price  of  mutton  varies  from  3d.  to  4d.  per  lb.,  and  beef  from 
4d.  to  6d.  Up  country  it  is  cheaper,  so  cheap,  indeed,  that  the  skin 
is  the  more  valuable  part  of  the  animal,  and  much  of  the  meat  is  wasted 
or  given  to  the  dogs,  the  best  parts  alone  being  eaten. 

Australian  Fish  is  plentiful  and  good,  and  includes  nearly  all  the 
varieties  esteemed  in  England  except  the  sole,  which  is  not  found  in  any 
Australian  waters;  but  there  are  many  other  varieties  unknown  in  Eng- 
land, such  as  trumpeter,  schnapper,  flathead,  barracouta,  etc.  Although 
the  coast  and  rivers  abound  in  fish,  the  supply  in  the  market  is  not 
plentiful,  consequently  fish  is  very  expensive,  a  fact  which  no  doubt 
explains  the  excessive  use  of  meat  in  a  climate  where  a  diet  com- 
prised almost  entirely  of  such  food  is  undesirable.  Fresh  water 
fish  are  most  abundant  in  both  creeks  and  rivers  ;  fresh  water  cod 
especially,  a  delicately-flavoured  fish,  generally  considered  superior  to 
the  cod  fish  found  on  our  coasts.  Oyster  beds  are  abundant  in  many 
parts  of  Australia,  consequently  this  highly-esteemed  bivalve  is  too 
cheap  to  be  considered  a  luxury  as  it  is  in  England. 

Vegetables  grow  abundantly  in  most  parts  of  Australia,  and  in 
addition  to  the  varieties  common  in  England,  there  are  many  un- 
known to  us.  Sour  sop,  a  fruit  which  in  its  ripe  condition  resembles 
the  custard  apple,  may  in  its  green  state  be  cooked  and  served  as  a 
vegetable.  Paw  paw  also  serves  the  double  purpose  of  fruit  and 
vegetable,  for  it  is  equally  excellent  boiled  while  in  a  green,  unripe 
condition  and  served  with  white  sauce,  or  eaten  when  ripe  with  wine 
and  sugar.  The  choko  is  a  vegetable  little  known,  although  it  grows 
freely  in  many  parts  of  Australia,  It  is  excellent  plainly  boiled  and 
•erved  with  white  sauce. 


1580  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Fruit  is  so  plentiful  in  many  parts  of  Australia  that  many  varieties 
may  there  be  had  for  the  picking.  In  addition  to  apples,  apricots, 
peaches,  bananas,  figs,  melons  and  other  well-known  fruit,  there  are 
others  almost  unknown  in  England,  such  as  gramma,  granadilla, 
loquat,  Passion  fruit,  etc. 


Typical  Australian  Dishes 

3785.— APRICOT    JAM. 

Ingredients. — To  every  Ib.  of  stoned  apricots  allow  the  juice  of  i 
lemon,  i  pint  of  water,  and  £  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar. 

Method. — Remove  the  stones,  crack  half  of  them,  and  add  the 
kernels  to  the  fruit.  Boil  the  water,  sugar,  and  lemon  juice  together 
for  20  minutes,  skim  well,  put  in  the  fruit  and  kernels.  Boil  gently 
for  about  an  hour,  or  until  a  little  of  the  syrup  quickly  jellies  when 
poured  on  to  a  cold  plate.  Turn  into  dry  glasses  or  pots,  cover 
immediately,  and  store  in  a  dry  place.  Peaches  may  be  substituted 
for  apricots. 

Time. — To  boil  the  jam,  about  £•  of  an  hour.      Average  Cost,  4d.  per  Ib. 

37g6._APRICOT    MOULD. 

Ingredients. — 2  dozen  apricots,  •£  a  pint  of  custard  No.  2104  or  2105, 
jelly  No.  1991  or  2004,  lemon  juice,  castor  sugar,  \  an  oz.  of  gelatine, 
4  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  of  a  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Halve  the  apricots  and  remove  the  stones.  Boil  the  4  ozs. 
of  loaf  sugar  in  the  £  of  pint  of  water  to  a  syrup,  put  in  the  apricots, 
remove  six  halves  when  partially  cooked,  and  the  remainder  when  quite 
soft,  and  pass  the  latter  through  a  fine  sieve.  Line  a  mould  with  jelly 
(see  page  985),  and  decorate  it  with  the  partially-cooked  apricots. 
Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  little  hot  water.  Mix  the  apricot  pulp  and 
custard  together,  add  sugar  and  lemon  juice  to  taste,  and  strain  in 
the  gelatine.  Mix  quickly  and  thoroughly,  turn  into  the  prepared 
mould,  and  keep  on  ice  until  firm. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.     Seasonable  in  summer. 

3787.— APRICOTS  AND  RICE. 

Ingredients. — 2  dozen  fresh  ripe  apricots,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  apricot 
marmalade,  i  quart  of  milk,  i  breakfastcupful  of  rice,  i  breakfast- 
cupful  of  sugar,  3  eggs,  the  rind  of  i  lemon,  the  juice  of  2  lemons. 

Method. — Simmer  the  rice  and  lemon-rind  in  the  milk  until  the  rice  is 
tender,  adding  more  milk  if  the  rice  becomes  too  dry  before  it  is  suffi- 
ciently cooked.  Take  out  the  lemon-rind,  stir  in  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar  and  the  eggs,  and  cook  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few 


TYPICAL   AUSTRALIAN    DISHES  1581 

minutes  longer.  Place  a  jar  in  the  centre  of  a  glass  dish,  and  pile  the 
rice  round  it,  sloping  it  towards  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and  put  aside 
until  cold.  Strain  the  lemon-juice  over  the  rest  of  the  sugar,  boil  the 
syrup,  put  in  the  apricots  previously  peeled,  halved  and  stoned,  and 
a  few  of  the  kernels  blanched  and  shredded,  and  boil  gently  until 
cooked,  but  not  broken.  Remove  the  jar,  and  place  the  apricots  care- 
fully in  the  space  it  occupied,  piling  them  high  in  the  centre,  add  the 
apricot  marmalade  to  the  syrup,  and  strain  it  over  the  apricots.  Gar- 
nish with  the  remainder  of  the  kernels,  and  serve  when  quite  cold. 
Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d.  to  25. 

3788.— CHOKO,    TO    BOIL. 

Ingredients. — Choko,  salt,  white  sauce  or  melted  butter  (see  Nos. 
223  and  202). 

Method. — Peel  the  choko,  let  it  remain  in  salt  and  cold  water  for 
about  i  hour,  then  drain  well.  Place  in  a  saucepan  containing  salted 
boiling  water,  boil  from  i  to  i£  hours,  and  serve  with  the  sauce 
poured  over. 

Time. — 2\  hours. 

3789.— COD  STEAKS. 

Ingredients. — 3  or  4  slices  of  fresh-water  cod,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  capers, 
salad-oil,  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Wash,  dry  the  fish  thoroughly,  and  brush  each  slice  over 
with  salad-oil.  Add  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  to  the  yolks 
of  eggs,  stir  them  with  a  wooden  spoon  in  a  small  basin  until  thick, 
then  add  salad-oil,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  until  the  preparation  has  the 
consistency  of  very  thick  cream.  Cut  the  capers  in  halves,  and  add 
them  with  a  few  drops  of  vinegar  to  the  sauce.  Grill  the  cod  steaks 
over  or  in  front  of  a  clear  fire,  and  serve  hot.  The  sauce  should  be 
served  separately. 

Time. — To  grill  the  fish,  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d. 
to  is.  9d. 

3790.— FISH    KLOSH. 

Ingredients. — £  a  Ib.  of  cold  trumpeter  or  other  fish,  i  oz.  of  ham  or 
bacon  coarsely  chopped,  i  shallot,  or  i  small  onion  finely  chopped, 
i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  egg,  £  a  pint  of 
anchovy  sauce  No.  288,  salt,  pepper. 

Method. — Mince  the  ham  or  bacon,  and  the  shallot  or  onion,  and 
fry  in  the  butter  for  a  few  minutes  ;  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  milk, 
and  boil  gently  for  5  minutes.  Mix  in  the  egg,  and  nsh  finely  flaked, 
season  to  taste,  spread  on  a  plate,  and  put  aside.  When  cold,  form 
in  to  MII  a  11  balls,  poach  in  boiling  fish  stock  or  water  for  5  or  6  minutes, 
and  serve  with  a  little  sauce  poured  over,  and  the  remainder  in  a 
sauce-boat. 

Time. — Altogether  about  2  hours. 


1582  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3791.— FLATHEAD,    BAKED. 

Ingredients. — i  flathead,  forcemeat  Nos.  394  or  396,  dripping, 
anchovy  Sauce  No.  289,  or  piquant  sauce  No.  265. 

Method. — Empty,  wash,  and  dry  the  fish,  make  the  forcemeat  as 
directed,  press  it  lightly  into  the  opening  made  in  cleaning  the  fish, 
which  secure  by  means  of  string  or  cotton  and  a  needle.  Bake  gently 
from  35  to  45  minutes,  basting  frequently  with  hot  dripping,  and 
when  done,  remove  the  string.  Serve  the  sauce  separately.  The  fish 
may  be  trussed  in  the  form  of  the  letter  S,  and  the  appearance  further 
improved  by  a  coating  of  egg  and  lightly  browned  breadcrumbs 
applied  before  baking. 

Time. — Altogether  about  i  hour. 

3792.— GRAMMA    PIE    OR    TART. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  grammas,  \  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  currants, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  short  crust  No.  1668. 

Method. — Remove  the  peel  and  seeds,  cut  the  fruit  into  small  pieces, 
place  in  a  stewpan  with  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water  and  the 
lemon  juice.  Cook  gently  until  soft,  add  the  currants  and  sugar,  and 
turn  the  whole  into  a  pie-dish.  Cover  with  paste,  bake  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold.  Custard  or  junket  will  be 
found  an  agreeable  addition. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  about  is. 

3793-— GRANADILLA    CREAM. 

Ingredients. — i  granadilla,  %  a  pint  of  cream,  2  ozs.  of  gelatine, 
i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  (about). 

Method. — Extract  the  juice  and  pulp  from  the  granadilla,  and  to  it 
add  the  sugar  and  lemon  juice,  let  the  whole  remain  covered  in  a  basin 
for  about  40  minutes,  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve.  Whip  the  cream 
stiffly,  and  stir  it  lightly  into  the  fruit  pulp.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in 
a  little  hot  water,  strain,  and  stir  it  into  the  preparation.  Turn  into 
a  mould,  and  keep  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  until  firm. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  3d. 

3794._GREEN    FIG    JAM. 

Ingredients. — To  2  Ibs.  of  figs  allow  i£  Ibs.  of  sugar,  \  a  pint  of  water, 
the  juice  of  i  lemon. 

Method. — Boil  the  water,  sugar,  and  lemon  juice  together  for  10 
minutes,  then  wipe  and  slice  the  fruit,  and  add  it  to  the  syrup.  Boil 
gently  for  about  i  hour,  or  until  a  little  of  the  syrup  poured  on  to  a 
cold  plate  quickly  jellies.  Turn  into  pots,  cover  quickly,  and 
store  in  a  dry  place. 

Tim*.— To  boll  the  jam,  about  x  hour,    Average  Coit,  <d,  to  5 d.  per  Ib. 


TYPICAL   AUSTRALIAN    DISHES  1583 

3795.— GUAVA    JELLY. 

Ingredients. — 3  quarts  of  red  guavas,  the  juice  of  i  or  2  lemons,  loaf 
sugar. 

Method. — Slice  the  fruit,  cover  with  cold  water,  and  simmer  gently 
for  2  hours,  then  strain  through  a  jelly  bag  or  fine  sieve.  Measure 
the  syrup  when  cold,  and  to  each  pint  allow  12  ozs.  of  sugar  and  i 
tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Return  to  the  preserving  pan,  boil 
gently  for  about  i£  hours,  or  until  a  little  of  the  syrup  poured  on  to 
a  cold  plate  jellies  quickly.  Turn  into  pots,  cover  quickly,  and  store 
in  a  dry  place. 

3796.— KANGAROO  TAIL,  CURRIED. 

Ingredients. —  i  tail,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  curry-powder,  2  onions  sliced,  i  sour  apple  cut  into  dice, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  salt. 

Method. — Wash,  blanch  and  dry  the  tail  thoroughly,  and  divide  it 
at  the  joints.  Fry  the  tail  lightly  in  hot  butter,  take  it  up,  put  in  the 
sliced  onions,  and  fry  them  for  3  or  4  minutes  without  browning. 
Sprinkle  in  the  flour  and  curry-powder,  and  cook  gently  for  at  least 
20  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Add  the  stock,  apple,  salt  to  taste, 
bring  to  the  boil,  stirring  meanwhile,  and  replace  the  tail  in  the  stew- 
pan.  Cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  until  tender,  then  add  the  lemon- 
juice  and  more  seasoning  if  necessary.  Arrange  the  pieces  of  tail  on  a 
hot  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over,  and  serve  with  boiled  rice. 

3797.— KANGAROO   TAIL,    FRICASSEE   OF. 

Ingredients. —  i  tail,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  onion  sliced, 
i  carrot  sliced,  \  a  small  turnip  sliced,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley,  i  bay- 
leaf,  2  cloves,  i  blade  of  mace,  i  dessertspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  salt 
and  pepper,  stock  or  water. 

Method. — Divide  the  tail  at  each  joint,  cover  with  cold  water,  bring 
to  the  boil,  then  drain  and  dry  well.  Fry  the  joints  lightly  in  hot  butter, 
then  take  them  up  and  stir  in  the  flour.  Fry  until  well  browned,  add 
the  stock  and  stir  until  it  boils,  then  put  back  the  tail,  and  add  the 
vegetables,  herbs  and  spices.  Season  to  taste,  cover  closely,  and  simmer 
gently  until  tender.  Arrange  the  pieces  of  tail  neatly  on  a  hot  dish, 
strain  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Timo. — 3  hours. 

3798.— KANGAROO  TAIL  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — i  tail,  2  Ib.  of  gravy  beef,  4  ozs.  of  butter,  i£  ozs.  of 
flour,  3  quarts  of  water,  i  carrot,  i  onion,  2  or  3  sprigs  of  parsley,  i  bay- 
leaf,  salt  and  pepper. 


1584  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Prepare  and  slice  the  vegetables,  wash  the  tail  and  divide 
it  at  the  joints.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  tail  until  well 
browned,  then  remove  it  and  fry  the  meat,  previously  cut  into  rather 
thin  slices.  Strain  off  the  butter  and  put  it  aside  until  required. 
Replace  the  tail  in  the  stewpan,  add  the  water  and  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Skim  well,  put  in  the  prepared  vegetables, 
parsley,  bay-leaf,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  pepper,  cover  closely,  and 
simmer  gently  for  4  hours,  skimming  when  necessary.  Strain ;  if  con- 
venient let  the  liquor  stand  vmtil  quite  cold  and  remove  every  particle 
of  fat  from  the  surface.  Re-heat  the  butter  used  for  frying,  adding 
more  if  necessary,  stir  in  the  flour,  and  cook  for  3  or  4  minutes.  Add 
the  stock,  bring  to  the  boil,  put  in  a  few  pieces  of  the  tail,  season  to 
taste,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 


3799.— LOQUAT    JELLY. 

May  be  made  as  directed  for  Guava  Jelly  (No.  3795)  but  a  little  less 
sugar  should  be  used. 

Time. — Altogether  5  or  6  hours.     Average  Cost,  pd.  per  pint. 

3800.— LOQUAT    PIE    OR    TART. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  loquats,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice, 
3  ozs.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  a  pint  of  cold  water,  short  crust  No.  1668. 

Method. — Wash  and  halve  the  fruit,  remove  the  stones,  and  place 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  sugar,  water,  and  lemon  juice.  Simmer 
gently  for  10  minutes,  then  strain,  replace  the  liquor  in  a  stewpan, 
add  the  fruit,  and  cook  gently  until  tender.  Turn  the  whole  into  a 
pie-dish,  cover  with  paste,  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven,  and  serve 
either  hot  or  cold. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  about  is. 

3801.— MELBOURNE    PANCAKES. 

Ingredients. — 2  breakfastcupfuls  of  flour,  2  breakfastcilpfuls  of  sour 
milk,  2  breakfastcupfuls  of  ripe  fruit  mashed  and  sweetened,  2  ozs. 
of  butter  melted,  2  eggs,  i  good  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda, 
sugar,  lard,  £  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  milk,  eggs,  and  salt  into  a  smooth  batter, 
and  let  stand  for  i£  hours.  Then  add  the  melted  butter  and  the 
carbonate  of  soda  previously  dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water.  Fry  the 
pancakes  in  hot  lard,  pile  them  one  above  another  with  a  thick  layer 
of  fruit  between  them.  Sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  serve. 

Time. — Altogether  about  2^  hours.     Average  Cost,  lod.  to  is. 


TYPICAL   AUSTRALIAN    DISHES  1585 

3802.— PARROT  PIE. 

Ingredients. —  i  dozen  paraquects  (a  small,  long-tailed  tropical  parrot), 
6  thin  slices  of  lean  beef,  4  rashers  of  bacon,  3  hard-boiled  eggs,  \  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  finely-grated 
lemon-peel,  salt  and  pepper,  puff -paste  No.  1665,  flour. 

Method. — Prepare  the  birds,  and  truss  them  like  a  quail  or  any  other 
small  bird.  Line  a  pie-dish  with  the  beef,  over  it  place  6  of  the  para- 
queets,  intersperse  slices  of  egg,  parsley  and  lemon-rind,  dredge  lightly 
with  flour,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  with  the  bacon  cut 
into  strips,  lay  the  rest  of  the  birds  on  the  top,  intersperse  slices  of  egg, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  sprinkle  with  parsley  and  lemon-rind 
as  before.  Three-quarters  fill  the  dish  with  cold  water,  cover  with 
puff-paste,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Time. — 2|  hours.     Cost,  uncertain. 

3803.— PAW  PAW,  GREEN,  TO  BOIL. 

Ingredients. — Green  paw  paw,  salt,  white  sauce  or  melted  butter 
(see  Nos.  223  and  202). 

Method. — Boil  gently  in  salt  and  water  until  soft,  and  serve  covered 
\\  ith  sauce. 

3804.— PEACH  AND  PINEAPPLE  MARMALADE. 

Ingredients. — 7  Ibs.  of  peaches,  i  large  ripe  pine,  3  lemons,  6  Ibs.  of 
sugar. 

Method.— Pare  and  slice  the  pine,  peel  and  stone  the  peaches,  crack 
half  the  stones  and  remove  the  kernd,.  Put  the  peaches  and  pine 
into  a  preserving-pan  with  just  a  little  water  to  protect  the  bottom 
layer,  heat  slowly  to  simmering  boil,  and  afterwards  cook  gently  for 
about  \  an  hour.  Add  the  sugar  gradually,  so  as  not  to  reduce  the 
temperature  below  simmering  point,  the  strained  juice  of  the  lemons 
and  the  kernels,  and  boil  gently  for  20  minutes,  skimming  when  neces- 
sary. Pour  into  earthenware  or  glass  jars,  cover  closely,  and  store 
in  a  cool  dry  place. 

3805.— PUMPKIN  PIE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  pumpkin  pulp,  £  of  a  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs, 
2  ozs.  of  sugar,  mace  or  nutmeg,  short  crust  No.  1667,  or  1668. 

Method. — Take  a  ripe  pumpkin,  pare  off  the  skin,  halve  it,  remove 
the  seeds,  and  cut  it  into  thick  slices.  Put  it  into  a  lined  stewpan  or 
earthenware  jar  with  a  small  quantity  of  water,  and  stew  gently  until 
tender.  Pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  measure  the  pulp,  add  the  sugar, 
yolks  of  eggs,  milk,  and  a  little  mace  or  nutmeg,  and  lastly  the  whit  • 
eggs  previously  whisked  to  a  stiff  froth.  Have  a  pie-dish  ready  lined 
round  the  edges  with  paste,  put  in  the  preparation,  cover  with  paste, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold. 


1586  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3806.— PUMPKIN  PIE.     (Another    Method.) 

Ingredients. —  i  ripe  pumpkin,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  £  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  powdered  allspice,  short  paste  No.  1667,  or  1668. 

Method. — Pare  the  pumpkin,  halve  it,  remove  the  seeds,  and  slice 
it  thinly.  Put  it  into  a  pie-dish,  sprinkling  each  layer  with  sugar  and 
a  little  allspice,  cover  with  paste,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven.  Serve 
with  thick  cream  and  sugar. 

3807.— SCHNAPPER,    BAKED. 

Ingredients. — i  schnapper,  i  tablespoonful  of  chopped  mushroom, 
i  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley,  i  saltspoonful  of  finely  chopped 
onion,  browned  crumbs,  butter,  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice. 

Method. — Wash,  dry,  and  fillet  the  fish  ;  place  the  fillets  on  a  well- 
greased  baking  dish  or  tin,  and  sprinkle  them  with  lemon  juice.  Mix 
the  mushroom,  parsley,  and  onion  together,  season  liberally,  and 
spread  the  mixture  on  the  fish.  Cover  rather  thickly  with  browned 
breadcrumbs,  add  a  few  bits  of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  moderately 
hot  oven  from  20  to  30  minutes.  The  fish  should  be  served  on  the 
dish  on  which  it  was  baked. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  20  to  30  minutes. 

3808.— SCHNAPPER,  WITH  TOMATO  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  schnapper,  i£  Ibs.  of  tomatoes,  i£  ozs.  of  butter, 
i£  ozs.  of  flour,  sugar,  salt,  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  fish,  bake  it  gently  for  about  £  an  hour, 
and  then  remove  the  skin  and  fins.  Meanwhile,  pass  the  tomatoes 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour, 
add  the  tomato  pulp,  cook  gently  for  10  to  15  minutes,  season 
liberally  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  sugar  to  taste.  Transfer  the 
fish  to  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  45  minutes. 

3809.— SOUR    SOP,    TO    BOIL. 

Ingredients. — Unripe  sour  sop,  salt,  white  sauce  or  melted  butter 
(see  Nos.  223  and  202). 

Method. — Boil  very  gently  in  salted  water  until  tender,  and  serve 
with  the  sauce  poured  over. 

3810.— WALLABY,  ROASTED. 

Ingredients. — i  wallaby,  veal  forcemeat  No.  396,  milk,  butter. 
Method. — In  winter  the  animal  may  hang  for  some  days,  as  a  hare, 
which  it  resembles,  but  in  summer  it  must,  like  all  other  flesh,  be 


TYPICAL   AUSTRALIAN    DISHES  1587 

cooked  very  soon  after  it  is  killed.  Cut  off  the  hind  legs  at  the  first 
joints,  and  after  skinning  and  paunching,  let  it  lie  in  water  for  a  little 
while  to  draw  out  the  blood.  Make  a  good  veal  forcemeat,  and  after 
well  washing  the  inside  of  the  wallaby,  stuff  it,  and  sew  it  up.  Truss 
as  a  hare,  and  roast  before  a  bright,  clear  fire,  from  i£  to  i£  hours, 
according  to  size.  It  must  be  kept  some  distance  from  the  fire  when 
first  put  down,  or  the  outside  will  be  too  dry  before  the  inside  is  done. 
Baste  well,  first  with  milk  and  then  with  butter,  and  when  nearly  done 
dredge  with  flour  and  baste  again  with  butter  till  nicely  browned. 
Time. — 2  hours. 

3811.— WATER   MELON,  PRESERVED. 

Ingredients. —  i  water  melon,  i  Ib.  of  loaf  sugar,  £  a  pint  of  water, 
lemon- juice,  ginger,  vine  leaves. 

Method. — Pare  and  halve  the  melon,  remove  the  soft  part,  and  cut 
the  outer  part  into  small  but  rather  thick  slices.  Place  them  in  a 
preserving-pan  between  layers  of  vine  leaves,  barely  cover  with  cold 
water,  and  cook,  keeping  the  preparation  just  below  simmering  point, 
until  half  cooked.  Drain,  cover  with  cold  water  and  let  it  remain 
thus  for  3  hours,  changing  the  water  twice.  Boil  the  sugar  and  £  a 
pint  of  water  to  a  syrup  (more  may  be  required  for  a  large  melon,  but 
the  quantity  should  be  increased  without  altering  the  proportions), 
place  the  slices  of  melon  carefully  in  it,  and  simmer  gently  for  15 
minutes.  Drain  the  melon  from  the  syrup,  spread  it  on  a  dish  in  the 
sun  for  3  hours,  then  repeat  the  process.  The  process  is  repeated  for 
the  third  time  after  another  interval  of  3  hours,  but  before  putting  the 
melon  into  the  syru£  for  the  last  time  it  should  be  flavoured  to  taste 
with  ground  ginger  and  lemon-juice,  and  boiled  for  a  few  minutes. 
Lift  the  slices  of  melon  carefully  into  pots,  pour  the  syrup  over,  cover 
closely,  and  store  in  a  dry  cool  place. 

Time. — About  12  hours. 


SOUTH  AFRICAN  COOKERY 


CHAPTER  LVII 

The  food  supply  of  South  Africa  varies  considerably,  according  to 
locality.  Corn,  wines  and  fruit  are  cultivated  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  Cape  ;  up  country  the  settlements  are  grazing  farms.  Much 
of  the  country  is  eminently  suited  for  the  cultivation  of  cereals,  yield- 
ing two  annual  crops  and  producing  some  of  the  finest  wheat  in  the 
world. 

Meat  Supply. — The  supply  of  meat  is  plentiful.  The  Cape  sheep  is 
a  peculiar  breed,  with  a  broad  flat  tail  composed  almost  entirely  of 
fat,  which  when  melted  often  yields  5  or  6  Ibs.  This  fat  supplies  the 
Cape  housekeeper  with  a  very  good  substitute  for  lard  and  frying  oil. 
It  also  makes  an  excellent  Savoury,  when  melted  and  spread  on  toast 
like  marrow.  "  Biltong  "  is  the  provender  of  the  Boers  on  the  Veldt, 
and  the  most  sustaining  form  of  dried  meat  ever  invented.  The  beef, 
or  venison,  is  cut  from  the  hind  leg  of  the  animal,  from  the  thigh-bone 
down  to  the  knee  joint.  After  being  salted  and  salfpetred,  and  pressed, 
it  is  dried  in  the  sun,  and  may  afterwards  be  kept  for  any  length  of 
time  ;  for  eating  it  is  shredded  with  a  pocket  knife. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Quails  and  many  other  birds  are  plentiful  in 
South  Africa,  but  partridges  and  pheasants  are  confined  to  the  more 
northern  regions.  Deer  are  numerous,  and  are  highly  valued  as  food. 
The  South  African  method  of  cooking  venison  in  a  baking  pot,  which 
no  doubt  was  introduced  by  the  old  Dutch  settlers,  has  much  to  recom- 
mend it.  Fowls,  ducks,  turkeys,  pigeons  and  hares  are  all  abundant. 

Fish. — The  supply  of  fish  is  abundant  in  some  parts  and  scarce  in 
others.  In  addition  to  sole,  turbot,  salmon,  mackerel,  haddock  and 
other  fish  known  to  us,  there  are  varieties  peculiar  to  the  country  ; 
of  these,  the  "  silver  fish  "  resembles  whitebait,  although  larger,  and 
is  cooked  in  the  same  way.  Cape  Harders  are  almost  identical  with 
our  herrings,  while  the  Cape  Creef  may  be  described  as  crawfish.  The 
Zulus  look  upon  fish  as  a  species  of  snake,  and  consequently  impure, 
and  unfitted  for  human  food.  Many  South  African  colonists  consider 
the  iguana — a  large  kind  of  amphibious  lizard — a  very  welcome  addition 
to  the  bill  of  fare,  and  say  that  the  flesh  of  this  reptile  is  anything  but 
unpalatable. 


TYPICAL   SOUTH    AFRICAN    DISHES  1589 

Fruit  and  Vegetables. — There  is  an  abundance  of  fruit,  while  some 
vegetables  are  plentiful,  others  are  very  scarce.  In  addition  to  the 
varieties  of  fruit  common  in  England,  there  are  loquat,  tamarinds, 
guava,  medlar,  quince  and  the  Cape  gooseberry. 

Cooking  in  South  Africa. — The  instinct  of  good  feeding  is  inherent  in 
the  Boer  character,  and  the  better-class  Boer  housewives  are  capital 
cooks.  They  are  very  fond  of  sweetmeats  in  every  shape  and  form, 
and  are  exceedingly  clever  in  making  home-made  preserves.  "  Mebos  " 
is  a  very  common  and  universally  appreciated  preparation  of  dried 
and  salted  apricots,  while  "  honing  kock  "  and  "  koe-sisters  "  are 
typical  old  Dutch  sweetmeats.  "  Bobotee,"  "  Sasatees  or  Kubobs," 
and  "  Gesmoorde  Noender  "  all  owe  their  origin  to  the  same  source, 
and  should,  as  well  as  many  other  recipes  not  named,  prove  most 
useful. 


Typical  South  African    Dishes 

3812.— ALMOND  CAKE.     (An  old  Dutch  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  Jordan  or  Valencia  almonds,  i  o/.  of  bitter 
almonds,  i  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  12  eggs,  4  heaped  tables poonfu Is  of 
pounded  cracknel  biscuits,  rosewater. 

Method. — Blanch  and  pound  the  almonds,  adding  from  time  to  time 
a  little  rosewater  to  prevent  them  oiling.  Beat  the  sugar  and  yolks 
of  eggs  together  until  smooth  and  light.  Whisk  the  whites  of 
add  them  alternately  with  spoonfuls  of  the  prepared  almonds  to  the 
yolks  and  sugar,  stir  in  the  powdered  biscuits,  and  beat  lightly  until 
well  mixed.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  cake  tin,  and  bake  gently  from 
i£  to  if  hours. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  i£  to  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  35.  6d. 
Sufficient  for  i  large  cake.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3813.— BOBOTEE.     (A  Favourite  Dish.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  meat  finely  chopped,  i  thick  slice  of  bread, 
2  medium-sized  onions  sliced,  2  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  curry  powder, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  sugar,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  or  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  i  oz.  of  butter  or  fat,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  8  almonds 
finely  chopped,  salt. 

Method. — Soak  the  bread  in  the  milk,  drain  away  all  that  remains 
unabsorbcd,  and  beat  out  the  lumps  with  a  fork.  Fry  the  onion  in 
the  butter  or  fat,  add  the  curry  powder,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the 
sugar,  almonds,  lemon  juice,  meat,  bread  and  i  egg.  Mix  well  and 
turn  the  whole  into  a  buttered  pic-dish  or  into  little  cups.  Beat  the 
remaining  egg,  add  the  milk  strained  off  the  bread  (not  less  than  a 


1590  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

good  £  of  a  pint),  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  over  the  mix- 
ture. Bake  gently  until  the  custard  is  set.  When  possible,  juice  ob- 
tained by  soaking  tamarinds  in  water  should  replace  the  lemon  juice. 
Time. — 15  minutes  when  using  cooked  meat,  otherwise  about  40 
minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  2s.  lod.  Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3814.— BREDEE.     (A  Meat  Stew.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  neck  of  mutton,  2  Ibs.  of  tomatoes  sliced,  2 
medium-sized  onions  cut  into  dice,  a  small  piece  of  red  chilli  finely 
shredded,  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  i^-  ozs.  of  butter  or  fat. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  discarding  any  superfluous 
fat.  Heat  the  butter  or  fat,  fry  the  onions  until  lightly  browned,  put 
in  the  meat,  fry  quickly  for  a  few  minutes,  turning  repeatedly.  Add 
the  tomatoes,  chilli,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  barely  cover  with  water, 
cover  closely,  and  cook  gently  for  2  hours.  Before  serving  add  a  little 
sugar. 

Time. — About  2$-  hours.  Average  Cost,  23.  6d.  to  2s.  pd.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3815.— BROOD    KHUTJES    (BREAD    DUMPLINGS). 
(An  old-fashioned  Dutch  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — 3  thick  slices  of  white  bread,  i  pint  of  broth  (about), 
i  tablespoonful  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley, 
J  of  a  nutmeg  grated,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  flour. 

Method. — Soak  the  bread  in  the  broth,  squeeze  it  dry,  and  beat  out 
the  lumps  with  a  fork.  Heat  the  butter,  put  in  the  bread,  mix  well 
over  the  fire  and  season  to  taste.  When  cool,  stir  in  the  eggs,  add 
the  parsley  and  nutmeg,  mix  well  and  form  into  small  balls.  Roll 
lightly  in  flour,  boil  them  in  stock  or  broth  for  2  minutes,  and  serve 
at  once. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  2  minutes.  Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3816.— CAPE  GOOSEBERRY  JAM. 

Ingredients. — 6  Ibs.  of  gooseberries,  4^  Ibs.  of  preserving  sugar,  i  pint 
of  cold  water. 

Method. — Prick  the  berries  with  a  darning  needle,  place  them  in 
alternate  layers  with  the  sugar  in  a  preserving  pan,  add  the  water, 
and  boil  gently  until  a  little  of  the  syrup  quickly  jellies  when  poured 
on  to  a  cold  plate.  Turn  into  pots,  cover  at  once,  and  store  in  a  dry 
place, 

Tim«i=-From  ij  to  2  hours,  Averago  Cost,  uncertain,  Sufficient  for 
6  or  7  ibs,  of  jam,  Stwonabia  when  the  gooseberries  are  roady. 


TYPICAL  SOUTH  AFRICAN  DISHES  1591 

3817.— CHEESE  PUDDING.      (An  old  Dutch  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — |  a  Ib.  of  grated  cheese,  £  an  oz.  of  butter  oiled,  £  of 
a  pint  of  cream  or  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  salt,  cayenne 
pepper,  i  egg. 

Method. — Beat  the  egg,  add  to  it  the  mustard,  cream  or  milk,  butter, 
cheese,  and  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt  and  cayenne,  and  mix  well. 
Turn  into  a  buttered  dish,  and  bake  gently  from  20  to  25  minutes. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  is. 
Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

38l8._ CHICKEN   MOULD.     (A   South   African   Lun- 
cheon Dish.) 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  cooked  chicken,  4  ozs.  of  ham  or  lean  bacon, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  J  of  a  pint  of  cream,  3  eggs,  nutmeg,  cayenne,  salt, 
£  of  a  pint  of  Bechamel,  oyster  or  other  suitable  sauce  (see  Sauces). 

Method. — Melt  the  butter,  beat  the  eggs  until  light,  and  mix  the  two 
together.  Chop  the  chicken  and  ham  finely,  pound  them  well,  adding 
a  little  of  the  mixed  egg  and  butter  to  moisten.  When  smooth  add 
the  cream  stiffly  whipped,  the  remainder  of  the  egg  mixture,  and 
season  to  taste.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  mould  or  basin,  steam 
gently  from  30  to  35  minutes,  and  serve  with  a  little  sauce  poured 
round  and  the  remainder  in  a  sauceboat. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  30  to  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  53.  6d.  to  6s. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

38lo._DELICIOSA  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  Jordan  or  Valencia  almonds,  8  ozs.  of  castor 
sugar,  3  stale  id.  sponge  cakes,  the  white  of  3  eggs,  £  of  a  teaspoonful 
of  finely-grated  orange  rind,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon, 
whipped  cream,  jam. 

Method. — Pound  or  finely  chop  the  almonds,  and  pass  the  sponge- 
cakes through  a  fine  sieve.  Mix  the  two  together,  add  the  orange 
rind  and  cinnamon,  and  stir  in  the  whites  of  egg.  Bake  in  well-buttered 
small  patty  pans  for  about  15  minutes,  turn  out,  and  when  cold  garnish 
with  a  small  pyramid  of  cream  with  a  little  jam  or  preserved  fruit 
in  the  centre  of  it. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.,  in  addition 
to  cream  and  jam.  Sufficient  for  10  or  12  cakes.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3820.— DUTCH  KABOBS  (SASATIES). 

Ingredients. — i  small  leg  of  mutton,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  curry 
powder,  3  onions  cut  into  dice,  i  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  £  a  pint  of 
milk,  |  of  a  pint  of  vinegar  (or  the  juice  of  3  lemons),  6  lemon  or  orange 
leaves  coarsely  chopped. 


1592  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  slices  about  £  an  inch  thick,  place  them  in 
an  earthenware  vessel,  add  the  sugar,  milk,  vinegar  or  lemon  juice,  and 
the  lemon  or  orange  leaves.  Fry  the  onions  in  the  butter,  sprinkle  on  the 
curry  powder,  and  add  the  whole  to  the  contents  of  the  other  vessel.  Stir 
in  a  liberal  seasoning  of  salt,  leave  it  for  at  least  12  hours,  and  when 
wanted,  place  fat  and  lean  pieces  alternately  on  skewers,  sprinkle  with 
salt,  and  grill  over  the  fire.  The  liquor  in  which  the  meat  soaked 
should  be  strained,  heated  and  served  as  gravy. 

Time. — To  grill  the  meat,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  iod., 
exclusive  of  the  meat.  Sufficient  for  12  persons.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

3821.— DUTCH   KOCKIES.      (An  old  Recipe  for  Tea 
Cakes.) 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  fine  flour,  ij-  Ibs.  of  good  brown  sugar,  £  a  Ib. 
of  butter,  |-  of  a  Ib.  of  sheep-tail  fat,  £  a  Ib.  of  almonds  pounded,  2 
eggs,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  carbonate  of  soda,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  ground 
cloves,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  cinnamon,  £  of  a  pint  of  claret. 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  and  fat  into  the  flour,  add  the  sugar, 
almonds  and  spices.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  a  little  warm  water.  Beat 
the  eggs,  add  the  dissolved  soda  and  wine  to  them,  mix  with  the  flour 
and  knead  well.  Roll  out  thinly,  stamp  into  small  rounds,  and  bake 
gently  until  crisp.  The  old  Dutch  people  put  a  small  piece  of  citron 
preserve  in  the  centre  of  each  cake. 

Time. — To  bake  the  cakes,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  33.  to 
33.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  cakes.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3822.— DUTCH  WAFERS,  OR  WAFELS. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  flour,  \  of  a  Ib.  of  sugar,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  4 
eggs,  2  level  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  cinnamon,  £  of  a  pint  of  wine. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  creamy,  beat  the 
eggs  in  separately,  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  between  each  one, 
and,  lastly,  stir  in  the  cinnamon  and  wine.  Cook  over  the  fire  in  well- 
greased  waffle  irons,  and  serve  dredged  with  cinnamon  and  fine  sugar. 

Time. — To  cook  the  wafers  or  waffles,  about  8  minutes.  Average 
Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  i  Ib.  of  wafers.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

3823.— FISH  MOULD.     (An  old  Dutch  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — |  a  Ib.  of  cooked  fish  coarsely-chopped,  i  good  tea- 
cupful  of  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs.  of  butter  melted,  2  eggs,  i  teaspoonful 
of  anchovy  essence,  cayenne,  pepper,  salt,  white  sauce,  oyster,  or  other 
fish  sauce. 


TYPICAL  SOUTH  AFRICAN  DISHES  1593 

Method.— Mix  the  fish,  breadcrumbs,  and  a  good  seasoning  of  pepper, 
cayenne,  and  salt  well  together,  and  moisten  with  the  eggs,  butter, 
and  anchovy  essence.  When  well  mixed,  turn  into  a  buttered  mould ; 
steam  gently  for  about  i£  hours,  and  serve  with  a  little  sauce  poured 
round  and  the  remainder  in  a  sauceboat. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  rod.,  exclusive  of 
the  sauce.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3824.— FISH  STEW. 

Ingredients. — A  large  sole,  or  any  nice  Cape  fish,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz. 
of  flour,    i    medium-sized  onion  sliced,    2  tablespoonfuls  ot 
i  small  blade  of  mace,  2  cloves,  salt,  pepper,  stock,  egg  and  1 
crumbs,  fat  for  frying. 

Method. — Fillet  the  fish,  trim  neatly,  chop  the  trimmings  finch 
put  them  aside.     Coat  the  fillets  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs 
until  nicely  browned,  also  fry  the  sliced  onion,  which  should  preierablv 
be  done  in  a  separate  frying-pan  with  very  little  fat.     Place  bot 
and  onion  in  a  cooking  vessel  with  a  closely-fitting  lid,  barely  cover 
with  stock,  add  the  ketchup,  mace,  cloves,  and  a  good  season  r 
salt  and  pepper,  cover  closely  and  cook  .  r  an  hour.      l\ 

and  Hour  smoothly  together  and  add  it  to  the  contc 
in  }  an  hour  before  serving.     Season  the  chopped  trimmings 
of  the  fish,  moisten  them  with  beaten  egg,  fry  them  lightly,  and 
as  a  garnish  to  the  fish. 

Time. — 1 1  hours.  Average  Cost,  2S.  6d.  to  35.  Sufficient  for  3  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3825.— GESMOORDE  HOENDER.     (Stewed  Fowl.) 

Ingredients. — i  young  fowl,  J  large  white  oni<  .  hilli 

shiviMe<l,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  nutmeg,  ;HT. 

Method.— Divide  the  fowl  into  neat  jm<  :,rm  lightly  in  the. 

butter,    remove   and   keep   them    hot.       I  "ni«»n    until    1 

browned,  replace  the  fowl,  add  rather  more  than  ^  of  a  pint  of  water, 
a  good  pinch  of  nutmeg  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer  gently 
for  one  hour,  and  a  few  minutes  b<  -tir  in  the  chilli. 

Time.— About  i|  hours.  Average  Cost,  35.  6d.  to  45.  Sufficient  for 
4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  tr 

3826.— GRAPE  JAM. 

Ingredients. — 6  IDS.  of  grapes,  2  Ibs.  of    cooking  apples  pared  and 

ugar,  2  i 

Method. — Remove  ,-os  from  \  I,  and  prirk  them  with 

i  lie.     Boil  the  sugar  and  \  nip    (see  page 

ami    put    in    the    grapes  and    apples,    and    boil    gently 


1594  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

a  little  of  the  syrup  quickly  jellies  when  poured  on  to  a  cold  plate. 
Turn  into  pots,  cover  quickly,  and  store  in  a  dry  place. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  Sufficient  for  8  Ibs.  of  jam. 
Seasonable  when  grapes  are  nearly  ripe. 

3827.— GREEN  TOMATO  PRESERVE. 

Ingredients. — 6  Ibs.  of  green  tomatoes,  8  Ibs.  of  preserving  sugar,  4 
lemons,  2^  doz.  peach  leaves,  3  pieces  of  ginger,  3  tablespoonfuls  of 
bnndy. 

Method. — Cover  the  tomatoes  with  water,  put  in  the  peach  leaves, 
and  boil  very  gently  until  the  tomatoes  are  quite  soft,  but  unbroken. 
Drain  the  water  into  another  pan,  add  to  it  the  sugar,  and  boil  to  a 
syrup  (see  page  1125).  Strain,  when  cold  replace  in  the  pan,  put  in 
the  thinly-pared  lemon  rind  and  ginger  tied  together  in  muslin,  the 
lemon  juice,  and  the  tomatoes.  Boil  gently  until  a  little  of  the  syrup 
jellies  quickly  when  poured  on  to  a  cold  plate,  then  stir  in  the  brandy. 
Turn  into  pot,  cover  at  once,  and  store  in  a  dry  place. 

Time. — Altogether,  6  or  7  hours.  Average  Cost,  6s.  Sufficient  for  12 
Ibs.  of  jam.  Seasonable  when  tomatoes  are  green. 

3828.— HONEYCOMB  CREAM. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  ^  an  oz.  of  gela- 
tine, 3  eggs,  vanilla  to  taste. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  a  little  hot  water.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs  until  light,  and  whisk  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth.  Boil  the 
milk,  stir  in  the  sugar,  add  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  dissolved  gelatine, 
and  boil  up.  Stir  in  the  whites  of  eggs  as  lightly  as  possible,  add 
vanilla  to  taste,  and  turn  into  a  mould  previously  rinsed  with  cold 
water.  Turn  out  when  firm,  and  serve  with  boiled  custard  or  com- 
pote of  fruit. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  8d.  or  9d.  Sufficient  for  i 
large  mould.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3829.— HONING  KOCK  (HONEY  CAKE). 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  flour,  i  Ib.  of  sugar,  ij  pints  of  honey,  2  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  ground  cinnamon,  i  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves,  £  a 
wineglassful  of  brandy,  i  oz.  of  potash  (bare  weight),  i  teaspoonful 
of  carbonate  of  soda. 

Method. — Boil  the  honey  and  sugar  together,  stir  in  the  cinnamon, 
cloves  and  potash,  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  the  brandy.  Mix 
the  flour  and  soda  together  in  a  basin,  add  the  contents  of  the  stewpan, 
and  knead  well.  Roll  out  thinly,  put  into  buttered  tins,  and  bake  in 
a  slow  oven  for  one  hour.  Cut  into  squares  and  keep  in  an  air-tight 
tin.  Candied  citron  peel,  shredded,  will  be  found  an  improvement. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  35.  Sufficient  for  about 
3  cakes.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


TYPICAL   SOUTH  AFRICAN  DISHES  1595 

3830. — KOESISTERS.      (An   old    Recipe   for   a   Dutch 
Sweetmeat.) 

Ingredients. — 3  breakfastcupfuls  of  flour,  i  breakfastcupful  of  moist 
brown  sugar,  £  a  breakfastcupful  of  oiled  butter  or  fat,  i  good  table- 
spoonful  of  yeast,  2  level  teaspoonfuls  of  ground  cinnamon,  i  level 
teaspoonful  of  mixed  spices,  4  eggs,  frying  fat. 

For  the  syrup  :  3  breakfastcupfuls  of  white  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  2  breakfastcupfuls  of  water. 

Method. — Mix  all  the  materials  together,  knead  well,  let  the  dough 
remain  in  a  warm  place  for  about  £  an  hour,  then  roll  it  out  to  about 
£  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Cut  into  i£  inch  squares,  and  cook  them 
in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  nicely  brown.  Meanwhile  boil  the  sugar, 
cinnamon,  and  water  together  (see  page  1125),  and  dip  the  cakes  into 
this  prepared  syrup.  May  be  kept  for  months. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for 
2  to  2\  Ibs.  of  cakes.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3831.— MACARONI  PIE. 

Ingredients. — £  of  a  Ib.  of  macaroni,  J  of  a  Ib.  of  grated  cheese,  i  oz. 
of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  salt,  pepper,  paste  Nos.  1652 
or  1666,  £  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Break  the  macaroni  into  short  lengths,  throw  them  into 
rapidly-boiling  salted  water,  cook  until  tender,  and  drain  well.  Re- 
place in  the  stewpan,  stir  in  the  cheese,  milk,  butter  and  a  good 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Turn  the  preparation  into  a  pie-dish 
lined  with  paste,  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about  20  minutes,  .mil 
serve  hot. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  5d.  to  6d.,  exclusive  of  the  paste. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3832.— MUTTON   CHOPS   IN    BATTER.     .(A   Colonial 
Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — 6  or  8  small  moderately-thin  slices  cut  from  a  well-hung 
leg  or  loin  of  mutton,  i  egg,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  £  a  pint  of  milk, 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  frying  fat. 

Method. — Mix  the  egg,  flour  and  milk  to  a  smooth  batter,  and  add 
a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Sprinkle  each  slice  of  meat  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  dip  them  into  the  batter,  and  fry 
gently  in  hot  fat  until  crisp  and  nicely  browned.  Batter  may  also  be 
made  of  the  above  quantities  of  flour  and  milk  with  the  addition  of 
about  £  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  the  egg  of  course  being 
omitted.  A  tablespoonful  of  oiled  butter,  fat,  or  salad  oil  will  greatly 
improve  the  batter. 

Time. — To  fry  the  chops,  from  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1596  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3833.— OBLETJES  OR  OUBLIES.      (An  old  Recipe  for 
Oublies,  Waffles  or  Wafers.) 

Ingredients. — i  Ib.  of  fine  white  flour,  \  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  6  ozs. 
of  butter,  2  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  £  of  a  pint  of 
wine,  salt. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  and  beat  in  the 
yolks  of  eggs  and  the  wine,  and  stir  in  as  lightly  as  possible  the  stiffly- 
whisked  whites  of  the  eggs.  Pass  the  flour,  cinnamon,  and  a  pinch 
of  salt  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  add  lightly  to  the  other  ingredients. 
Put  about  i  tablespoonful  of  the  batter  into  the  oublie  or  wafer  pan, 
over  the  surface  of  which  it  should  spread  easily,  otherwise  the  batter 
must  be  thinned  by  adding  more  wine  ;  cook  quickly  over  the  fire, 
remove,  and  roll  while  hot. 

Time. — To  cook  each  oublie,  about  2  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  9d. 
to  2s.  Sufficient  for  about  2  Ibs.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3834.— PEACH  PICKLE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  dried  peaches,  £  a  Ib.  of  brown  sugar,  \  a  Ib. 
of  salt,  2  ozs.  of  curry  powder,  6  large  onions  sliced,  6  chillies  shredded, 
6  large  pieces  of  ginger,  i  tablespoonful  of  pepper,  i  tablespoonful  of 
mustard  seeds,  i  tablespoonful  of  coriander  seeds,  3  quarts  of  vinegar, 
salad  oil. 

Method. — Pour  the  vinegar  over  the  peaches  and  let  them  soak  for 
at  least  1 2  hours.  Fry  the  sliced  onions  in  salad  oil  until  well  browned 
and  drain  well.  Pound  or  crush  the  spices.  Boil  all  together  until  the 
peaches  are  quite  soft  but  unbroken,  then  turn  into  jars  or  pots,  cover 
closely,  and  store  for  use. 

Time. — About  15  hours.  Average  Cost,  33.  6d.  to  43.  Sufficient  for 
about  5  quarts.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3835.— PICKLED  STEAK. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  steak,  2  onions  sliced,  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of 
tarragon  vinegar,  i  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  24  white  peppercorns, 
6  cloves,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  mixed  parsley,  thyme  and 
marjoram. 

Method. — Place  the  steak  in  a  deep  dish,  cover  with  slices  of  onions, 
add  .the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  let  the  steak  remain  in  the  marinade 
for  about  12  hours.  Drain  and  wipe  well,  and  grill  quickly  over  a  «.  K  .u 
fire.  Strain  the  marinade  into  a  stewpan,  boil  up,  season  to  taste, 
put  in  the  steak  and  let  it  cook  very  gently  for  about  20  minutes. 

Time. — To  grill  the  steak,  7  or  8  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to 
33.  6d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


TYPICAL    SOUTH  AFRICAN  DISHES  15,97 

3836.— POFFERTJES.     (Dutch  Fritters.) 

Ingredients. — 6  ozs.  of  flour,  4  ozs.  of  butler,  3  eggs,  £  a  pint  of  milk 
or  water,  about  %  a  Ib.  of  lard. 

Method. — Boil  the  milk  or  water,  then  add  the  butter,  stir  the  flour 
in  gradually,  and  cook  over  the  fire  until  it  ceases  to  adhere  to  the 
stewpan  or  spoon.  Turn  on  to  a  dish  ;  when  cool  stir  in  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  beat  stiffly,  and  add  lightly  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Heat 
the  lard,  put  in  the  dough  a  teaspoonful  at  a  time,  fry  gently  until 
nicely  browned,  turning  frequently  meanwhile.  Dredge  liberally  with 
fine  sugar  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  fry,  about  i  $  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Suffi- 
cient for  8  or  9  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3837._SAVOURY   RISSOLES.     (Frickadels.)     (An  old 
Dutch  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  raw  mutton,  2  tomatoes,  2 
rather  thick  slices  of  stale  bread,  I  very  small  onion  finely  chopped. 

2  eggs,  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  breadcrumbs,  J  of  a  pint  of 
curry  sauce  (No.  241),  milk,  fat  for  frying. 

Method. — Soak  the  bread  in  milk,  squeeze  and  drain  away  all  that 
remains  unabsorbed,  and  beat  out  the  lumps  with  a  fork.  Pass  tin- 
tomatoes  through  a  fine  sieve.  Mix  the  meat,  bread,  tomato  pulp  and 
onion  together,  add  nutmeg,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  stir  in  i 
egg.  Shape  into  small  round  cakes,  coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  in  hot  fat  until  nicely  browned.  Have  the  curry  sauce  ready, 
put  in  the  rissoles,  stew  very  gently  for  £  an  hour,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.     Average  Cost,  about   is.  3d.     Sufficient  for 

3  or  4  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3838.— SAVOURY  RISSOLES.    (Frickadels.)     (Another 
Method.) 

Ingredients. — %  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  cooked  mutton,  2  slices  of 
bread,  i  small  onion  finely  chopped,  2  eggs,  breadcrumbs,  salt,  pepper, 
and  nutmeg  to  taste,  \  a  Ib.  of  mushrooms,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  i  medium- 
sized  onion  sliced,  £  of  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  made  from  bones  and 
trimmings  of  meat  (see  Sauces),  milk,  fat  for  frying. 

Method. — Soak  the  bread  in  milk,  squeeze  and  drain,  and  then  beat 
out  the  lumps.  Mix  the  meat,  bread  and  finely-chopped  onion  to- 
gether, season  liberally,  and  stir  in  an  egg.  Form  into  small  cakes, 
coat  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Heat  the  butter, 
fry  the  sliced  onion  until  lightly  browned,  put  in  the  mushrooms,  and 
when  they  have  cooked  gently  for  20  minutes  add  the  prepared  brown 


1598  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

sauce.     Stir  until  boiling,  put  in  the  rissoles,  let  all  stew  gently  for 
about  £  an  hour,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  to  is.  9d.     Sufficient  for 

4  or  5  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3839.— SWARTZUIR.     (An  old  Cape  Recipe.) 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  Ibs.  of  neck  of  mutton,  i  onion,  i  breakfastcupful 
of  white  flour,  2  ozs.  of  tamarinds,  i  pint  of  boiling  water,  6  cloves, 
i  teaspoonful  of  brown  sugar,  salt,  pepper,  2  eggs. 

Method. — Remove  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  cut  it  into  rather 
small  pieces.  Place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the  onion  and  i  pint  of  cold 
water.  To  the  pint  of  boiling  water  add  the  tamarinds,  cloves,  sugar, 
and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  the  meat  gently  for 
i  hour,  and  then  strain  a  breakfastcupful  of  the  liquor  into  another 
stewpan,  and  to  this  add  salt  and  pepper  and  the  cupful  of  flour.  Stir 
over  the  fire"  until  the  dough  is  well  cooked,  and  when  cold  work  in  the 
eggs  and  form  into  dumplings  no  larger  than  a  walnut.  To  the  meat 
add  the  tamarinds,  water  and  spices,  let  it  boil  well,  add  the  dumplings, 
and  cook  gently  for  10  minutes  longer. 

Time. — About  2  hours.     Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  35.  6d.     Sufficient  for 

5  or  6  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 


INDIAN   COOKERY 


CHAPTER    LVIII 

General  Observations  on  Cookery  in  India,  and 
Recipes  for  Typical  Indian  Dishes 

Housekeeping  in  India  is  totally  different  from  housekeeping  here. 
The  mistress  cannot  undertake  the  personal  supervision  of  her  kitchen, 
which  is  not  in  the  house  or  bungalow,  but  outside,  and  often  some 
distance  away.  She  will  also  soon  learn  (that  is  supposing  she  has 
been  accustomed  to  English  housekeeping)  that  it  is  impossible  to 
treat  Indian  servants  in  the  same  manner  as  those  on  whom  she  has 
been  accustomed  to  depend  for  daily  service.  Indian  servants  are 
good,  many  of  them  :  but  they  cannot  be  trusted  and  will  cheat 
if  they  have  a  chance,  and  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  look  after 
the  cook  (Khansa-man),  who  will  probably  be  the  marketer. 

It  is  best  to  give  him  his  orders  overnight,  that  he  may  go  early  to 
the  bazaar  to  buy.  There  is  a  tariff  of  all  articles  sold  at  the  bazaar, 
regulated  by  the  bazaar  master  and  cantonment  magistrate  :  therefore, 
having  mastered  the  value  of  the  various  coins  and  a  few  words  for 
everyday  wants  in  the  way  of  food,  it  should  be  difficult  for  your 
Khansa-man  to  exercise  his  proclivities  for  defrauding  you. 

Drink  is  the  greatest  expense  in  housekeeping.  The  climate  is  a 
thirsty  one,  and  the  water  is  bad,  and  so  filled  with  animalculae  that  it 
cannot  be  drunk  with  safety  unless  it  is  boiled  and  filtered.  Then 
it  is  so  flat  and  unpalatable  that  it  is  necessary  to  add  something  to 
make  it  more  pleasant  to  the  taste. 

One  of  the  most  refreshing  drinks  is  lime-juice  and  water,  and  iced 
tea  is  another  very  pleasant  beverage.  Bottled  beer  is  a  favourite 
drink,  but  this,  as  well  as  draught  beer,  is  expensive.  Still,  drinking 
is,  after  all,  more  of  a  habit  than  a  necessity  :  and  those  in  India 
who  wish  to  preserve  their  constitutions  should  drink  as  few  "  pegs  " 
(as  the  brandies  and  sodas  and  other  drinks  are  generally  denominated) 
as  possible. 

1509 


T6oo  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Food  in  India  is  not  dear,  and  the  fact  of  only  having  to  provide  for 
the  family  and  not  for  any  servants  makes  a  very  great  difference  in 
the  trouble  of  housekeeping.  Indian  cooks  are  clever,  and  will  turn 
out  a  good  dinner  with  simple  materials  which  an  ordinary  English 
cook  would  waste  or  convert  into  the  plainest  meal. 

Meat  being  eaten  so  soon  after  it  is  killed,  even  if  for  no  other  reason, 
is  not  good  :  the  beef  is  coarse,  sinewy,  and  tasteless,  and  the  mutton 
decidedly  inferior  in  quality.  Fortunately  Indian  cooks  are  so 
clever  in  disguising  the  insipidity  of  both,  otherwise  meat  would  be 
very  unpalatable.  English  ham  is  considered  a  delicacy  :  other  pork 
is  not  eaten  in  India.  Goat's  flesh  is  sometimes  cooked,  but  it  is 
anything  but  pleasant  to  English  tastes. 

Poultry. — Chickens  are  plentiful  and  cheap,  but  inferior  in  quality  to 
well-fed  French  and  English  birds.  Notwithstanding  this  they  play 
an  important  part  in  the  Indian  diet,  and  the  native  cooks  are  very 
skilful  in  preparing  them  for  the  table. 

Game  and  Poultry. — Generally  speaking,  India  abounds  with  game. 
Deer  of  many  species  are  to  be  found  in  different  parts  of  the  country, 
and  most  of  them  afford  excellent  venison.  High  up  in  the  Himalayas 
the  ibex  (a  wild  goat)  and  the  ovis  ammon  (a  wild  sheep)  are  to  be 
found,  but  their  flesh  is  rarely  tasted,  except  by  sportsmen,  though 
sometimes  seen  in  the  hill  summer  stations.  Wild  boar  are  found  in 
most  parts  of  the  peninsula.  The  bison  is  also  shot,  and  affords  beef. 
Bears  in  great  variety  are  found  in  the  hills,  and  hunters  appreciate 
the  hams  and  stewpans  prepared  in  the  Russian  fashion.  Hares  and 
rabbits  are  also  abundant  in  some  parts  of  the  country  :  the  Himalayas 
afford  pheasants,  partridges  are  abundant  in  the  plains,  snipe  are 
plentiful  and  well  flavoured,  while  quails  and  teal  are  better  in  India 
than  almost  anywhere  else.  Swampy  districts  abound  with  water- 
fowl, including  wild  geese. 

Fish  in  the  mountain  streams  are  both  plentiful  and  excellent  in 
quality,  but  those  found  in  the  rivers  of  the  plains  are  lightly  esteemed. 
The  murrel,  which  somewhat  resembles  the  English  pike  or  carp,  pro- 
vides a  palatable  dish.  The  native  cook  generally  fills  them  with 
stuffing  and  either  bakes  or  stews  the  fish  over  a  slow  fire.  The  sea 
affords  an  abundant  supply  ;  the  seer  is  not  unlike  the  salmon,  and 
is  usually  dressed  in  the  same  way.  The  pomplet  resembles  turbot 
or  brill,  the  hilsa  is  almost  identical  with  our  mackerel,  while  the 
Calcutta  becktie,  in  size  and  appearance,  is  similar  to  the  cod. 

Vegetables. — Most  parts  of  India  are  well  provided  with  vegetables. 
Many  European  varieties  are  grown  specially  for  the  markets  of  big 
towns,  and  the  hill  stations  are  well  supplied  in  this  respect.  Apart 
from  these,  there  are  many  native  varieties,  such  as  the  bringales  or 
egg  plants,  maize,  pumpkins,  yams,  sweet  potatoes,  and  mollay  which 
yields  leaves  that  may  be  treated  like  our  young  greens  or  spinach. 
Yams  and  sweet  potatoes  may  be  baked,  boiled  or  stewed,  and  served 


INDIAN    COOKERY  1601 

in  that  condition,  or  they  may  be  converted  into  purees  :  the  yam 
sliced  also  makes  delicious  sweet  fritters.  Horseradish  is  grown,  but 
not  abundantly,  and  very  frequently  the  root  of  the  moringa  or  drum- 
stick tree  is  scraped  and  used  in  its  place. 

Fruit  is  well  known  to  be  plentiful  in  India,  but  many  varieties 
cultivated  there  lack  the  fine  flavour  that  characterizes  the  English 
fruit  of  the  same  class.  Peaches  are  poor  and  not  well  flavoured, 
grapes  are  thick  skinned  and  have  a  strong  muscat  flavour,  plantains 
are  insipid,  and  a  taste  for  the  turpentine  flavour  of  the  mango  is  not 
easily  acquired,  although  most  people  who  have  lived  long  in  India 
are  fond  of  them.  Amongst  the  best  of  the  fruits  indigenous  to  the 
country  are  bananas,  dates,  melons,  and  cocoanuts.  English  vege- 
tables, with  proper  care,  grow  well,  and  Indian  cooks,  properly  in- 
structed, will  cook  them,  as  well  as  anything  else,  in  the  way  we  are 
accustomed  to  have  them  cooked  at  home. 

The  culinary  arts  followed  by  the  Hindus  and  Mohammedans  of 
Asia  differ  considerably,  for  while  meat  is  rigidly  excluded  from  the 
diet  of  the  former,  the  Mohammedan  indulges  in  it  freely.  The  Hindu 
delights  in  farinaceous  foods  such  as  cakes  of  wheat  and  other  grain, 
rice  variously  dressed,  also  curries  prepared  from  vegetables,  ghee,  oil, 
acid-  vegetables  or  fruit,  the  whole  flavoured  with  spices  ;  and  the 
piquancy  is  further  heightened  by  the  chutneys  and  pickles  served  with 
them.  The  principal  dishes  of  the  Mohammedan  are  curries,  pilleaus, 
brianes,  hashes,  and  cakes. 

A  glance  at  the  Oriental  recipes  for  curries  at  once  explains  \\h\- 
those  served  in  England  differ  so  widely  from  the  preparations  in  India. 
Some  of  the  ingredients  employed  are  unknown  to  us,  all  of  them  are 
used  in  a  green  state,  and  consequently  impart  a  better  flavour  to  the 
dish  of  which  they  form  a  part.  Ghee,  a  substance  largely  used  in 
making  curries,  differs  from  ordinary  clarified  butter,  inasmuch  as  it 
is  flavoured  with  ground  cloves  and  green  mint,  cooked  in  the  butter 
while  it  is  being  clarified.  Curries  are  best  when  made  in  an  ear^hen- 
ware  vessel  like  the  natives'  "  chattie,"  or  the  French  casserole,  and 
stirred  with  a  wooden  spoon.  \Vhen  making  a  curry  in  a  stewpan. 
great  care  must  be  taken  that  the  metal  is  well  tinned.  In  India 
curries  are  very  generally  served  with  thin  wafer-like  cakes,  called 
Papodums,  and  thin  strips  of  dried  fish,  known  as  Bombay  Ducks. 

The  pilleau  is  a  purely  Oriental  dish,  and  may  consist  of  moat, 
venison,  poultry,  or  kid.  Frequentlyj^thc  principal  substance  is  stewed 
down,  and  the  gravy  containing  the  essence  used  to  flavour  the  rice, 
the  articles  themselves  seldom  appearing  in  their  original  state.  Some- 
times the  inferior  parts  of  the  meat,  or  whatever  is  being  used,  is 
reduced  to  a  strong  gravy,  and  mixed  with  parboiled  rice,  and  the 
prime  parts  either  roasted,  grilled,  or  boiled  separately.  "When  the 
is  absorbed  the  gravy,  the  prepared  meat  is  placed  in  the  centre 
of  it  in  a  closed  stewpan,  and  cooked  very  gently  for  a  coii-:>i-  rable 


1602  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

time.  Rice  not  only  forms  part  of  the  dish,  but  it  is  sometimes  served 
as  an  accompaniment,  being  previously  plainly  boiled  and  mixed  with 
a  little  butter  or  ghee. 

Rice  also  enters  into  the  composition  of  "  brianes,"  which  are  highly 
spiced  and  seasoned  dishes,  resembling  a  mixture  of  curry  and  pilleau. 
The  meat,  game,  fish,  etc.,  is  lightly  fried,  then  put  into  a  stewpan 
with  rice,  stock,  various  seasoning  and  flavouring  ingredients,  covered 
closely,  and  cooked  very  gently  until  done. 

Except  that  the  meat  is  thinly  sliced,  the  Oriental  hash  bears  not 
the  least  resemblance  to  the  English  production  so  named.  The 
numerous  spices,  vegetables,  and  condiments  which  enter  largely  into 
their  composition  naturally  produce  a  more  palatable  dish  than  a  hash 
that  simply  consists  of  slices  of  cold  meat  warmed  in  a  thin,  insipid 
liquid,  which  frequently  represents  an  amateur  cook's  idea  of  a  brown 
sauce.  As  regards  culinary  apparatus,  the  native  cook's  requirements 
are  extremely  simple.  With  the  aid  of  a  fireplace  made  of  clay,  a  few 
earthen  dishes,  and  other  utensils  of  a  primitive  description,  he  will 
produce  excellent  results. 

The  following  recipes  will  be  more  generally  useful  in  India,  where 
all  the  materials  contained  in  them  are  easily  obtained.  As  a  matter 
of  convenience,  the  quantities  are  expressed  in  the  commercial  weights 
of  this  country,  but  the  appended  table  of  equivalents  will  enable  the 
reader  to  easily  convert  Avoirdupois  into  Indian  weight — 

I     seer      .          .          .          ...        .          .     2  Ib. 

i     chittack         .      ' -:.'         .          .          .     2  oz. 
2-£  tolahs  .          .       :  .          .          .          .1  oz. 

I     masher  .      ...         .          .          .19  grains 

(or  about  %  of  a  teaspoonful). 


Typical   Indian   Dishes 

3840.— BRIANS  MAHEE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  white  fish,  i  Ib.  of  rice,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ghee,  or  butter, 
2  ozs.  of  roasted  chennah,  or  other  ground  meal,  2  ozs.  of  green  ginger, 
2  ozs.  of  coriander  seeds,  i  oz.  of  anise,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of 
ground  cloves,  cardamoms,  cinnamon,  cumin  seeds  and  saffron,  2 
or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  gingly  oil,  2  onions  sliced,  £-  of  a  pint  of 
buttermilk,  salt. 

Method. — Wash  and  clean  the  fish,  cut  it  into  pieces  convenient  for 
serving,  dry  thoroughly,  pour  over  it  the  gingly  oil,  and  let  it  stand 
for  |  an  hour.  Wash  off  the  oil,  dry  the  fish  well,  rub  it  all  over  with 
the  chennah  and  anise  pounded  or  ground,  allow  it  to  stand  for  a  few 


TYPICAL    INDIAN    DISHES  1603 

minutes,  then  wash  it  again.  Now  pour  over  it  the  buttermilk,  add 
the  cardamoms  and  cloves,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  juice  of  the  green 
ginger,  and  let  it  soak  for  i  hour.  Fry  the  onions  in  a  little  hot  ghee, 
add  the  ginger,  coriander,  cinnamon,  cumin  and  saffron,  put  in  the  fish, 
and  cover  with  the  rice,  previously  parboiled.  Add  a  little  of  the 
buttermilk,  pour  over  the  whole  the  melted  ghee,  cover  closely,  and 
cook  as  slowly  as  possible  for  about  i  hour,  serve  hot. 

Time.  —  1£  hours.       Sufficient  for  6  or  7   persons.     Cost,   is.  9d.  to 


3841.—  BRIANE  NOORMALEE. 

Ingredients.  —  2  Ibs.  of  lean  mutton,  2  Ibs.  of  rice,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ghee  or 
other  fat,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  green  chumah  dhall,  2  onions  sliced,  £  an  oz.  of 
green  ginger,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  coriander  seeds,  cinnamon, 
cloves,  cardamoms,  cumin  seeds  and  saffron,  £  of  a  pint  of  good  gravy, 
salt. 

Method.*1  —  Slice  the  meat,  sprinkle  it  liberally  with  salt  and  pounded 
ginger,  let  it  remain  for  about  £  an  hour,  then  pour  over  it  the  gravy. 
Allow  the  meat  to  soak  for  i  hour,  turning  it  2  or  3  times,  and  adding 
a  little  more  gravy  if  necessary,  then  drain  it  well,  and  dip  each  slice 
in  flour  seasoned  with  salt.  Heat  a  little  ghee  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the 
onions  until  well  browned,  then  add  the  meat,  and  fry  it  also.  As 
soon  as  the  meat  is  lightly  browned,  sprinkle  in  the  coriander  seeds, 
previously  ground,  pour  in  the  gravy  in  which  the  meat  was  soaked,  and 
cook  gently  until  it  has  become  evaporated  or  absorbed.  Meanwhile, 
parboil  the  rice  in  water,  then  drain  it  well,  and  stir  in  the  saffron. 
As  soon  as  the  meat  is  sufficiently  dry  add  the  coriander,  cinnamon, 
cloves,  cardamoms  and  cumin  seeds,  all  previously  pounded  or  ground, 
mix  well  together,  place  the  rice  on  the  top,  over  which  spread  the 
green  chumah  dhall,  and  pour  upon  it  the  remaining  ghee  previously 
melted.  Cover  closely,  and  cook  as  slowly  as  possible  for  about  40 
minutes,  then  serve. 

Time.  —  2  hours.     Sufficient  for  6  persons.     Cost,  2s.  3d. 

3842.—  BURLAS. 

This  term  is  applied  to  a  mixture  of  vegetables,  fried  in  ghee  (frying 
fat  or  butter).  A  favourite  mixture  is  cabbage  and  potato,  known 
to  us  as  "Coleanum." 

3843.—  CALCUTTA  BECTIE,  TO  COOK. 

This  fish  may  be  cooked  according  to  the  numerous  recipes  for 
dressing  cod  (see  Nos.  428  447).  a  tish  it  somewhat  resembles. 

3844.—  CEYLON  LOBSTER  CURRY. 

Ingredients.  —  i  large  lobster,  i  large  cucumber,  i  small  cocoanut, 
2  ozs.  of  butter,  3  ozs.  of  chopped  onions,  or  shallots,  i  clove  of  garlic 
very  finely  chopped,  i  dessertspoonful  of  thinly-sliced  green  ginger, 


1604  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

1  dessertspoonful  of  rice  flour,    i  teaspoonful  of  ground   turmeric,  i 
teaspoonf ul  of  salt,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  %  a  teaspoonful  of  ground 
cloves,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  j  of  a  pint  of  fish  stock, 
lemon- juice. 

Method. — Peel  the  cucumber,  cut  it  lengthwise  into  quarters,  across 
into  pieces  2  inches  long,  and  carefully  remove  the  seeds.  Have 
ready  a  saucepan  of  salted  boiling  water,  put  in  the  cucumber,  cook 
gently  until  three-quarters  done,  then  drain  well.  Break  the  cocoanut 
in  half,  saving  the  milk  from  the  inside,  and  scrape  or  chop  the  white 
part  of  the  nut  finely.  Pour  ^  of  a  pint  of  boiling  water  over  the 
cocoanut,  let  it  stand  for  20  minutes,  then  strain  off  the  liquid,  and  put 
it  aside.  Cover  the  grated  nut  again  with  £  of  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 
let  it  remain  for  at  least  £  an  hour,  then  strain  through  fine  muslin 

2  or  3  times,  squeezing  the  nut  well  each  time.     Fry  the  onions  and 
garlic  lightly  in  hot  butter,  add  the  rice  flour,  turmeric,  cinnamon, 
cloves,  sugar  and  salt,  stir  and  cook  very  slowly  for  15  minutes,  then 
put  in  the  pieces  of  lobster  and  cucumber,  cover  closely,  and  let  the 
stewpan  stand  away  from  the  fire  for  £  an  hour,  in  order  that  the  con- 
tents may  become  thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  flavour  of  the 
curry  sauce.     At  the  end  of  this  time,  re-heat,  add  the  first  infusion 
of  the  cocoanut  and   i   teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  bring  to    boiling 
point,  and  serve. 

Time. — i^  hours.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.      Cost,  is.  9d.  to  2s. 

3845._CHILWARS,   TO  COOK. 

See  directions  for  dressing  whitebait  (No.  687).  They  are  served 
with  fresh  cut  limes  instead  of  lemons. 

3846.— CHITCHKEE  CURRY. 

Ingredients. — 2  onions  sliced,  i£  pints  of  cooked  vegetables,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  curry  powder,  rice. 

Method. — The  vegetables  should  comprise  cauliflower,  turnip,  carrot, 
French  beans,  potato  and  any  others  in  season,  all  of  which  should  be 
cut  into  dice  or  small  pieces.  Heat  the  ghee,  fry  the  onions,  sprinkle 
in  the  curry  powder,  cook  for  about  20  minutes,  and  add  the  vegetables. 
Toss  over  the  stove  until  thoroughly  hot,  adding  a  little  gravy  if  too 
dry,  and  serve  with  boiled  rice. 

Time. — £  an  hour.     Sufficient  f  or3  or  4  persons. 

3847.— CURRY  OF  FISH. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  fish,  £  a  Ib.  of  onions  sliced,  2  ozs.  of  ghee  or 
butter,  £  an  oz.  each  of  green  chillies,  dried  chillies,  green  ginger, 
turmeric,  cumin  seeds,  coriander  seeds,  £  of  an  oz.  of  fenugreek,  i  clove 
of  garlic  finely-chopped,  •£  a  pint  of  fish  stock  or  milk,  salt,  the  juice 
•tf  2  tamarinds, 


TYPICAL    INDIAN    DISHES  1605 

Method. — Put  \  the  onions  into  a  mortar,  add  the  dried  chillies, 
ginger,  turmeric,  cumin,  coriander,  fenugreek,  garlic  and  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  salt,  and  pound  until  smooth.  Fry  the  remaining  onions 
in  hot  ghee  until  lightly  browned,  add  the  fish,  previously  washed, 
well-dried  and  cut  into  small  slices,  fry  lightly,  then  add  the  stock  or 
milk,  the  pounded  ingredients,  the  juice  of  the  tamarinds,  and  the  green 
ginger,  and  cover  closely.  Cook  slowly  for  20  minutes,  then  serve  with 
plainly  boiled  rice. 

Time. — 45  minutes.     Cost,  is.  icd.  to  2S.     Sufficient  for  5  persons. 

3848.— CURRY  OF  FOWL. 

Ingredients. — i  fowl,  2  ozs.  of  ghee  or  butter,  \  a  Ib.  of  Kabool  chennah 
or  Indian  corn,  \  a  Ib.  of  onions  sliced,  £  an  oz.  of  green  ginger,  \  an  oz. 
of  coriander  seeds,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  black  pepper,  ground 
cinnamon,  cloves  and  cardamoms,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  fowl  into  neat  joints,  place  them  in  a  stewpan 
barely  covered  with  cold  water,  add  the  sliced  onions,  coriander  seeds, 
green  ginger,  pepper,  i  dessertspoonful  of  salt  and  the  Kabool  chennah 
previously  well  washed,  and  cook  until  the  fowl  is  tender.  Mix  the 
ground  cinnamon,  cloves  and  cardamom  together,  moisten  with  a  little 
cold  stock  or  water,  add  the  strained  liquor  from  the  fowl,  stir  until 
it  boils,  and  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes.  Fry  the  fowl  in  hot  ghee 
until  nicely  browned,  put  it  into  the  stewpan  containing  the  curry 
sauce,  and  let  it  stand  for  20  minutes  where  it  will  keep  hot.  Serve 
with  plainly  boiled  rice. 

Time. — 1|  hours.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Cost,  33.  6d.  to 
35.  icd. 

3849.— CURRY  OF  MUTTON. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  lean  mutton,  2  ozs.  of  ghee  or  butter,  £  a  Ib.  of 
onions  (sliced),  £  a  Ib.  of  pounded  almonds,  £  of  an  oz.  of  green  ginger, 
|  a  teaspoonful  of  saffron,  %  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves,  |  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  ground  cardamoms,  the  juice  of  5  limes,  i  clove  of  garlic, 
$  of  a  pint  of  cream,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  salt. 

Method. — Pound  the  green  ginger  with  a  little  ghee,  season  it  well  with 
salt,  and  rub  it  into  the  meat,  previously  cut  into  small  thin  slices. 
Let  it  stand  for  £  an  hour,  and  meanwhile  fry  the  onions  in  hot  ghee 
until  lightly  browned.  Put  the  meat  into  the  stewpan,  add  the  garlic 
very  finely-chopped,  ground  cloves,  cardamom  seeds  and  pepper,  and 
fry  until  the  meat  is  cooked,  taking  care  the  onions  do  not  become 
burnt.  Now  add  the  cream,  ground  almonds,  saffron,  the  juice  of  the 
limes,  and  salt  to  taste,  cover  closely,  and  cook  as  slowly  as  possible 
for  20  minutes.  Serve  with  plainly  boiled  rice. 

Time. — 2^  hours.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Cost,  2S.  2d. 


1606  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3850.— CURRY  POWDER. 

Ingredients. — 8  ozs.  of  turmeric,  6  ozs.  of  coriander  seeds,  3  ozs.  of 
cardamoms,  3  ozs.  of  cumin,  3  ozs.  of  fenugreek,  i  oz.  of  cloves,  i  oz.  of 
white  peppercorns,  %  of  an  oz.  of  cayenne. 

Method. — Thoroughly  dry  and  pound  the  above  ingredients,  first 
separately,  then  all  together.  When  well  mixed,  pass  the  whole 
through  a  fine  sieve,  put  the  preparation  into  dry  bottles,  cork  tightly, 
and  store  for  use. 

Time. — i  hour.     Sufficient  for  i^  Ibs.  of  powder.     Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d. 

385I._CUTHEEREE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  rice,  \  a  pint  of  split  dhall  or  dried  peas,  \  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  ginger,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  of  mace,  salt,  4  hard-boiled 
eggs,  2  small  boiled  onions,  or  onions  sliced  and  fried. 

Method. — Soak  the  dhall  or  peas  in  water  overnight,  then  wash  them 
well,  and  also  wash  the  rice.  Cover  the  dhall  or  peas  with  water, 
add  the  ginger,  mace  and  salt  to  taste,  cook  until  half  done,  then  add 
the  rice.  Cover  closely,  and  cook  slowly  until  the  rice  is  swollen  and 
tender,  stirring  very  frequently  towards  the  end  of  the  process,  when 
nearly  all  the  water  should  have  evaporated.  Serve  garnished  with 
hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  half,  and  surrounded  by  either  small  boiled 
onions,  or  slices  of  fried  onion. 

Time. — 1£  hours.     Sufficient  for  i  dish.     Cost,  nd.  to  is.  id. 

3852. — DAL. 

Ingredients. — £  a  pint  of  lentils,  f-  of  a  pint  of  stock,  2  ozs.  of  ghee, 
i  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder,  3  onions  sliced,  rice. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  lentils,  cover  them  with  stock,  simmer 
gently  until  tender,  adding  more  stock  gradually,  but  when  finished 
they  should  be  quite  dry.  Heat  the  ghee,  fry  the  onions  until  lightly 
browned.  Sprinkle  on  the  curry  powder,  stir  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
add  the  lentils.  Cook  gently  for  about  20  minutes  and  serve  with 
well  boiled  rice. 

Time. — \\  hours.     Sufficient  for  i  dish.     Cost,  ?d.  to  9d. 

3853.— DAL  POOREE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  pint  of  lentils,  £  of  a  pint  of  stock,  4  medium-sized 
onions  coarsely  chopped,  ±  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  chillies,  £  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  ginger  and  turmeric  mixed,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  salt,  i 
clove  of  garlic,  2  ozs.  of  butter  paste,  ghee. 

Method. — Cook  the  lentils  in  the  stock  (see  preceding  recipe).  Fry  the 
onions  in  the  butter,  stir  in  the  dry  prepared  lentils,  add  the  chillies, 
ginger,  turmeric,  salt,  and  garlic  and  mix  well.  Roll  the  paste  out 
thinly,  cut  into  rounds,  place  a  little  of  the  mixture  on  one-half  of 


TYPICAL    INDIAN    DISHES  1607 

the  rounds,  and  cover  with  the  remainder.      Press  and  secure  the 
edges,  drop  the  rounds  into  hot  ghee,  and  fry  until  nicely  browned. 
Either  plain  flour  and  water  or  puff  paste  may  be  used. 
Time. — 14  hours.     Sufficient  for  i  dish.     Cost.  nd.  to  is. 

3854.— DUMPOKE. 

Ingredients. — i  boned  chicken,  6  or  8  ozs.  of  rice,  3  ozs.  of  ghee  or 
butter,  2  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  dice,  2  onions  cut  into  dice,  stock, 
cayenne,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  drain,  and  dry  the  rice,  fry  it  in  i£  ozs.  of  hot  ghee 
or  butter  until  lightly  browned,  cover  with  stock  and  cook  till  soft, 
adding  more  stock  when  necessary;  but  when  ready  the  rice  should  be 
rather  dry.  Fry  the  onions  in  the  remainder  of  the  ghee,  add  the  rice, 
eggs,  and  seasoning  to  taste,  and  stuff  the  chicken  \vith  the  preparation. 
Braise  gently  and  serve  coated  with  a  good  white  sauce. 

Time. — 2^  hours.     Sufficient  for  5  persons.     Cost,  35.  lod.  to  43. 

3855.— HASH  BOGURRAH. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  mutton,  %  a  Ib.  of  flour,  \  a  Ib.  of  ghee,  or  other 
fat,  2  ozs.  of  onions,  \  an  oz.  of  ginger,  cinnamon,  cloves  and  cardamoms, 
£  of  an  oz.  of  salt,  £  of  an  oz.  of  coriander  seeds,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  each 
of  saffron  and  capsicum  pepper,  i  yolk  of  egg. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  and  onions  into  small  thin  slices,  reduce  all 
the  flavouring  ingredients  to  a  fine  powder,  and  mix  to  a  smooth  paste 
with  a  little  cold  water.  Fry  the  whole  in  hot  ghee  until  well  browned, 
then  barely  cover  with  water,  and  cook  as  slowly  as  possible  until  the 
meat  is  tender.  Meanwhile  knead  the  flour  to  a  smooth  paste  with 
the  yolk  of  egg,  roll  it  out  thinly,  and  cut  it  into  strips  about  2  inches 
in  length  and  £  an  inch  in  breadth.  Throw  the  strips  into  boiling 
salted  water,  cook  until  done,  then  drain  them  well  and  add  them  to 
the  contents  of  the  stewpan  about  10  minutes  before  serving.  Serve 
with  the  saffron  sprinkled  over  the  hash. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Cost,  2s. 

3856.— HASH  SUNGSHERE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  mutton,  2  ozs.  of  ghee  or  other  fat,  i4-  ozs.  of 
white  cliennah  flour,  4  ozs.  of  rice,  \  of  a  Ib.  each  of  onions,  carrots, 
paluk,  soya  greens,  i  oz.  each  of  blanched  almonds  and  green  ginger, 
|  of  an  oz.  of  salt,  \  an  oz.  of  coriander  seeds,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon,  \  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  cardamoms  and  cloves,  i  pint  of 
stock,  i  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  and  onions  into  thin  slices,  and  fry  them  in 
hot  ghee  until  lightly  browned.  Add  the  flour,  stir  over  the  fire  until 
it  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour,  then  cover  with  stock  and  simmer  very 
slowly  until  the  meat  is  half  cooked.  Strain  off  the  gravy,  and  again 


1608  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

fry  the  meat  in  hot  ghee  or  fat  with  the  cloves  and  coriander  seeds 
previously  ground  to  a  fine  powder.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  add  the 
strained  gravy,  stock  and  milk,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  thicken  with 
ground  rice.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  salt, 
spices,  carrots,  soya  and  paluk  cut  into  small  pieces.  Fry  the  almonds 
in  hot  ghee  until  well  browned,  add  them  to  the  contents  of  the  stew- 
pan,  add  also  the  previously  well  washed  and  soaked  rice,  cover  closely, 
and  cook  gently  for  about  i  hour.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — 1£  hours.      Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Cost,  2s.  3d. 

3857.— HILSA,  TO  COOK. 

See  recipes  for  dressing  Mackerel  (Nos.  544-9),  which  fish  the  Hilsa 
resembles. 

3858.— KIDGEREE. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  rice,  4  ozs.  of  dal,  4  ozs.  onions,  4  ozs.  ghee, 
a  few  slices  of  green  ginger,  peppercorns,  cloves,  cardamoms,  cinnamon, 
salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  onions  across  into  rings,  fry  them  in  the  hot  ghee 
until  nicely  browned,  then  remove  them  and  keep  them  hot  and  crisp. 
Add  the  dal  and  rice,  previously  washed  and  dried,  to  the  ghee,  cook 
gently  until  all  the  ghee  is  absorbed,  then  barely  cover  with  stock  or 
water  and  add  the  ginger  and  peppercorns,  cloves,  etc.,  to  taste.  Cook 
very  slowly  until  quite  dry,  and  serve  garnished  with  the  fried  onions. 

Time. — 45  minutes.     Sufficient  for  i  dish.     Average  Cost,  is. 

3859.— KUBAB  FOWL. 

Ingredients. —  i  fowl,  2  ozs.  of  ghee  or  other  fat,  2  ozs.  of  coriander 
seeds,  2  ozs.  of  green  ginger,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  green  cloves,  £  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  ground  cardamoms,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  turmeric,  \  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  black  pepper,  2  onions  sliced, 
£  of  a  pint  of  stock,  ±  of  a  pint  of  cream. 

Method. — Prepare  the  fowl,  truss  it  for  roasting  and  prick  it  all 
over  with  a  steel  skewer  or  fork.  Roast  the  coriander  seed, 
crush  it  with  the  cloves,  cardamoms,  ginger,  pepper  and  salt  to  a 
fine  powder,  and  rub  the  mixture  well  into  the  fowl.  Heat  the 
ghee  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  onions  until  lightly  browned,  then  sprinkle 
in  the  turmeric,  add  the  cream  and  stock,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Place 
the  fowl  in  the  stewpan,  baste  it  well,  cover  closely,  and  cook  slowly 
until  tender,  basting  it  frequently.  Serve  with  the  sauce  strained  over 
and  round. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Sufficient  for  5  persons.      Cost,  33.  lod.  to  45.  3d. 


TYPICAL    INDIAN    DISHES  1609 

3860.— KULLEAH  YEKHANEE. 

Ingredients. — 2  Ibs.  of  lean  mutton,  £  a  Ib.  sliced  onion,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  lime  juice,  i  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  £  a  teaspoonful 
each  of  curry  powder,  ginger  and  cloves,  salt,  rice. 

Method. — Slice  the  meat  thinly,  barely  cover  it  with  warm  water, 
add  the  onion,  lime  juice,  sugar,  curry  powder,  ginger,  cloves  and  salt 
to  taste.  Simmer  very  gently  from  2^  to  3  hours,  and  serve  with  well 
boiled  rice. 

Time. — 3  hours.     Sufficient  for  6  persons.     Cost,  2s.  3d. 

3861.— LIMES,  PICKLED. 

Ingredients. — 25  limes,  4  ozs.  of  salt,  4  ozs.  of  green  chillies,  4  ozs.  of 
green  ginger,  2  ozs.  of  mustard  seed  freed  from  husks,  i  oz.  of  ground 
turmeric,  i^  pints  of  good  vinegar. 

Method. — Cut  the  limes  across  in  halves,  squeeze  out  all  the  juice, 
add  2  ozs.  of  salt,  and  cover  closely.  Sprinkle  the  remaining  salt  over 
the  rinds,  let  them  remain  for  6  hours,  then  dry  them  in  the  sun  for 
3  days,  or  until  hard.  Boil  the  chillies,  green  ginger,  mustard  seed  and 
turmeric  in  the  vinegar  for  20  minutes.  Let  the  preparation  cool, 
mix  with  it  the  lime  juice,  and  strain  it  over  the  lime  rinds  previously 
laid  compactly  in  wide-necked  bottles  or  jars.  Cover  closely,  place 
them  in  the  sun  for  3  or  4  days,  then  store  for  use. 

Time. — 5  days.     Sufficient  for  i  or  2  jars.     Cost,  uncertain. 

3862.— LIME  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — Fresh  limes,  loaf  or  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Squeeze  the  juice  from  the  limes,  strain  it,  and  add  sugar 
to  taste.  Serve  diluted  with  iced  water. 

3863.— MANGO  CHUTNEY. 

Ingredients. — 30  green  mangoes,  2  Ibs.  of  sugar,  £  a  Ib.  of  salt,  2  IDS.  of 
raisins  stoned,  i  Ib.  of  green  ginger,  i  Ib.  of  dried  chillies,  4  ozs.  of  garlic, 
3  pints  of  good  vinegar. 

Method. — Peel  and  slice  the  mangoes,  chop  them  finely,  also  chop  finely 
the  raisins,  green  ginger  and  garlic.  Pound  the  chillies  in  a  mortar  until 
smooth,  then  mix  them  with  the  rest  of  the  prepared  ingredients. 
Dissolve  the  sugar  and  salt  in  the  vinegar,  bring  to  the  boil,  then  let 
it  become  quite  cold,  and  mix  it  with  the  mangoes,  etc.  Turn  into 
wide-necked  bottles  or  jars,  cover  closely,  let  them  remain  in  the  sun 
for  3  or  4  days,  then  store  for  use. 

Time. — 5  days.     Sufficient  for  3  jars.     Cost,  uncertain. 


i6io  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

3864.— MANGO  PICKLE. 

Ingredients. — 50  green  mangoes,  i  Ib.  of  dried  chillies,  i  Ib.  of  green 
ginger  finely  sliced,  %  a  Ib.  of  mustard  seed,  2  ozs.  of  garlic,  2  ozs.  of 
turmeric,  vinegar,  and  salt. 

Method. — Peel  the  mangoes,  and  partly*  divide  them  through  the 
shell,  so  as  to  remove  the  seed  from  the  inside.  Sprinkle  them  with 
salt,  and  let  them  remain  for  24  hours.  Meanwhile  boil  the  turmeric 
in  2  quarts  of  vinegar  for  20  minutes,  and  let  it  become  quite  cold. 
Pound  the  chillies  until  smooth,  add  the  ginger,  the  mustard  seed  freed 
from  husks,  the  garlic  finely-chopped,  and  mix  well  together.  Fill  the 
inside  of  the  mangoes  with  this  preparation,  place  them  in  jars,  sprinkle 
over  them  any  of  the  seasoning  preparation  that  remains,  and  cover 
with  vinegar. 

Time. — 30  hours  or  longer.     Sufficient  for  3  or  4  jars.     Cost,  uncertain. 

3865.— MOLE. 

Ingredients. — Cooked  fish,  chicken  or  meat,  i  small  cocoanut,  2  ozs.  of 
butter,  2  ozs.  of  finely-chopped  shallots,  i  clove  of  garlic  finely-chopped, 
i  dessertspoonful  of  rice  flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-sliced  green 
ginger,  the  skin  of  i  red  chilli,  the  skin  of  i  green  chilli,  both  finely- 
shredded,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon- juice,  salt. 

Method. — Break  the  cocoanut,  remove  and  preserve  the  milk,  and 
scrape  or  chop  the  white  part  of  the  nut  finely.  Cover  with  \  of  a  pint 
of  boiling  water,  let  it  stand  for  20  minutes,  then  strain  off  the  liquid 
and  put  it  aside.  Again  cover  the  nut  with  the  same  quantity  of 
boiling  water,  let  it  stand  for  at  least  £  an  hour,  then  strain  2  or  3  times 
through  fine  muslin,  squeezing  the  nut  well  each  time.  Fry  the  shallots 
and  garlic  in  hot  butter  without  browning,  stir  in  the  rice  flour, 
add  the  second  infusion  of  cocoanut,  and  boil  well.  When  ready, 
add  the  first  infusion  of  cocoanut,  boil  up,  add  lemon-juice  and  salt  to 
taste,  put  in  the  green  ginger,  shredded  chillies,  prepared  fish,  chicken 
or  meat,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — 1£  hours.      Sufficient  for  i  dish.     Cost,  lod.  to  is.  4d. 

3866.— PILAU  or  PILLOFF. 

Ingredients. —  i  chicken,  4  ozs.  of  butter  or  ghee,  4  ozs.  of  rice,  2 
green  mangoes  sliced,  4  or  5  onions  sliced,  2  doz.  stoned  raisins,  i  doz. 
almonds  coarsely  shredded,  3  hard-boiled  eggs,  salt,  cloves. 

Method. — Truss  the  chicken  as  for  boiling,  fry  it  in  3  ozs.  of  butter 
or  ghee  until  the  whole  surface  is  lightly  browned,  then  add  the  mangoes 
and  onions.  Fry  gently  for  10  or  15  minutes  longer,  barely  cover  with 
white  stock  or  water,  add  6  cloves  and  salt  to  taste.  Simmer  gently 
for  |  of  an  hour,  then  transfer  to  a  baking  vessel,  baste  with  hot  ghee, 
and  roast  gently  for  nearly  an  hour.  Meanwhile  boil  the  rice  in  the 


TYPICAL    INDIAN    DISHES  1611 

stock  until  tender,  then  strain  and  reduce  the  stock  by  rapid  boiling. 
Place  the  rice  in  a  small  pan,  add  i  oz.  of  butter,  the  raisins  and 
almonds,  and  make  thoroughly  hot.  Serve  the  rice  round  the  chicken, 
garnish  with  sections  of  egg,  and  serve  some  of  the  well  reduced  sauce 
separately. 

Time. — 2  hours.     Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.     Cost,  35.  6d. 

3867.— PILAU  OF  FOWL. 

Ingredients. — i  fowl,  i  Ib.  of  lean  mutton,  £  a  Ib.  of  rice,  6  onions, 
£  of  a  Ib.  of  ghee  or  butter,  12  black  peppercorns,  10  cloves,  10  carda- 
moms, 2  blades  of  mace,  3  currypak  leaves,  |-  of  an  oz.  of  green  ginger, 
5  quarts  of  cold  water,  i  dessertspoonful  of  salt,  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Method. — Slice  the  mutton,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  4  onions  cut  in 
halves,  the  water  and  salt,  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Skim  if  necessary, 
put  in  the  fowl,  cook  gently  until  tender,  then  put  aside  until  required. 
Let  the  contents  of  the  stewpan  continue  to  simmer  until  the  liquor 
is  reduced  to  £  its  original  quantity,  then  strain  and  press  the  meat 
well  so  as  to  extract  all  the  juices.  Slice  the  remaining  onions,  fry  them 
brown  in  ghee  previously  heated  in  a  stewpan,  then  drain  them  from 
the  fat.  Re-heat  the  fat  and  fry  the  fowl,  turning  it  frequently  to 
equalize  the  cooking.  When  well  browned  remove  it  and  fry  the  rice, 
which  must  be  previously  washed  and  thoroughly  dried.  Add  the 
peppercorns,  cloves,  cardamoms,  mace,  currypak  leaves,  green  ginger 
thinly  sliced,  a  little  salt  if  necessary,  and  as  the  butter  becomes  ab- 
sorbed add  gradually  the  liquor  in  which  the  fowl  and  meat  were 
cooked.  When  the  rice  is  tender,  draw  the  stewpan  aside,  put  in  the 
fowl  with  the  rice  piled  over  and  round  it,  and  let  it  remain  until  some 
of  the  moisture  has  evaporated,  leaving  the  rice  swollen  and  moderately 
dry.  Serve  the  fowl  imbedded  in  rice,  and  garnished  with  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  in  quarters. 

Time. — 3  hours.     Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons.     Average  Cost,  45.  6d. 

3868.— PILAU  OF  MUTTON. 

Ingredients. — 2^  Ibs.  of  lean  mutton,  2  Ibs.  of  rice,  £  a  Ib.  of  onions 
sliced,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  ghee  or  butter,  i  oz.  of  raisins  stoned,  i  oz.  of  almonds 
blanched,  i  oz.  of  pistachio  nuts  blanched,  i  oz.  of  dried  apricots 
sliced,  \  an  oz.  of  green  ginger  thinly  sliced,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground 
cinnamon,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  ground  cloves,  ground  cardamoms, 
cumin  seeds,  and  black  pepper,  6  eggs,  salt. 

Method. — Mince  \  of  the  meat  finely,  and  cut  the  rest  into  slices 
convenient  for  serving.  Put  the  sliced  meat  into  a  stewpan,  add  the 
onions  and  ginger,  the  coriander  and  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  cover  with 
cold  water,  cook  very  gently  until  the  meat  is  tender,  then  strain  off 
the  stock.  Meanwhile  the  rice  should  have  been  well  washed,  parboiled 
and  drained  ;  now  put  it  into  the  stewpan  with  the  stock  and  simmer 


1612  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

until  the  rice  is  tender,  and  the  stock  has  become  evaporated  or  ab- 
sorbed. Heat  £  of  the  ghee  in  another  stewpan,  put  in  the  slices  of 
meat,  sprinkle  over  them  the  ground  cloves,  cumin  seeds,  and  a  little 
cinnamon  and  cardamom,  then  toss  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes. 
Spread  the  prepared  rice  over  the  meat,  pour  on  a  little  melted  ghee, 
cover  closely,  and  cook  very  gently  for  \  an  hour.  Heat  the  remain- 
ing ghee  in  another  pan,  put  in  the  minced  mutton  with  a  little  salt, 
and  toss  it  over  the  fire  until  lightly  browned.  Add  the  rest  of  the 
flavouring  ingredients,  the  raisins,  almonds,  pistachios,  apricots,  and 
a  well-beaten  egg,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes. 
Serve  the  slices  of  meat  imbedded  in  the  rice,  spread  the  minced  pre- 
paration on  the  top,  and  garnish  with  the  remaining  eggs  either  fried 
or  poached. 

Time. — 2\  hours.     Sufficient  for  5  to  8  persons.     Cost,  33.  2d. 

3869.— POMEGRANATE  JUICE. 

Ingredients. — 6  pomegranates,  £  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  the  juice  of  3 
limes,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Press  the  pulp  of  the  pomegranates  through  a  very  fine 
sieve,  add  the  sugar  and  lime-juice,  and  dilute  with  the  water.  Strain 
several  times  through  muslin,  then  bottle  for  use. 

Time. — i  to  2  hours.     Sufficient  for  i  bottle.     Cost,  uncertain. 


3870.— POMPLET,  TO  COOK. 

This  fish  is  not  unlike  turbot  or  brill,  and  may  be  treated  according 
to  the  directions  given  for  dressing  turbot  and  brill  (see  Fish  Section). 

3871.— POOLOOT. 

Ingredients. — i  fowl,  i  Ib.  of  rice,  4025.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  green  ginger 
finely-sliced,  3  onions  sliced,  3  onions  finely-chopped,  J  of  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  black  pepper,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cardamom  seeds,  i 
quart  of  stock,  6  hard-boiled  eggs,  rolls  of  fried  bacon,  the  juice  of  i 
lemon,  salt. 

Method. — Wash,  parboil  and  drain  the  rice.  Truss  the  fowl  for 
boiling,  place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the  rice  under  and  round  it,  add  the 
chopped  onions,  green  ginger,  lemon-juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
a  little  stock.  Cover  closely,  and  cook  as  gently  as  possible,  adding 
more  stock  from  time  to  time.  When  the  fowl  is  sufficiently  cooked 
take  it  up  and  cut  it  into  neat  joints,  keep  it  hot  and  dry  by  the 
side  of  the  fire.  Heat  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  remaining 
onions  until  lightly  browned,  then  drain  them  and  keep  them  hot.  Fry 
the  fowl  in  the  same  butter,  turning  it  frequently  that  all  parts  may  be 
equally  browned.  Pile  the  rice  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  arrange  the 


TYPICAL   INDIAN    DISHES  1613 

pieces  of  fowl  on  the  top  with  the  fried  onions  interspersed,  and  garnish 
the  base  with  quarters  of  hard-boiled  eggs   and  rolls  of  fried  bacon. 
Time. — 2^  hours.     Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.     Average  Cost,  45. 

3872.— QUOORMA  CURRY. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  lean  mutton,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  3  ozs.  of  shallots  or 
onions  finely-chopped,  i  clove  of  garlic  very  finely  chopped,  i  dessert- 
spoonful of  finely-grated  green  ginger,  i  dessertspoonful  of  rice  flour, 
i  teaspoonful  of  ground  coriander  seed,  i  teaspoonful  of  ground  black 
pepper,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  cardamoms,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  ground 
cloves,  i  teaspoonful  of  ground  turmeric,  i  saltspoonful  of  sugar,  i 
pint  of  mutton  stock,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  2  ozs.  of  ground  almonds,  the 
juice  of  i  lemon,  salt. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  into  £  inch  squares,  sprinkle  over  them  the 
ginger  and  a  good  seasoning  of  salt,  and  let  them  remain  for  i  hour. 
Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  fry  the  shallots  and  garlic  until  lightly 
browned,  then  add  the  rice  flour,  coriander,  pepper,  cardamoms  and 
cloves,  and  cook  gently  for  10  minutes.  Add  the  stock,  boil  up  and 
simmer  gently  for  15  minutes,  then  pour  over  the  meat,  and  let  it  stand 
covered  for  £  an  hour.  When  ready,  turn  the  whole  into  a  stewpan, 
boil  up,  and  cook  as  slowly  as  possible  for  £  an  hour,  or  until  the  meat 
is  quite  tender.  Meanwhile  soak  the  pounded  almonds  in  the  milk, 
and  when  the  meat  is  tender,  strain  the  milk  2  or  3  times  through  fine 
muslin,  pressing  the  almonds  well  each  time,  then  add  it  to  the  con- 
tents of  the  stewpan.  Mix  the  turmeric  smoothly  with  a  little  stock 
or  water,  stir  it  in,  add  the  sugar  and  salt  to  taste,  and  continue  to  cook 
as  slowly  as  possible  for  20  minutes  longer.  Add  the  lemon-juice  just 
before  serving. 

Time. — 2  hours.  Sufficient  for  4  persons.  Average  Cost,  is.  ~d.  to 
is.  Qd. 

3873.— SEER  OR  SEIR-FISH,  TO  COOK. 

This  fish  inhabits  the  seas  of  the  West  Indies,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
valuable  products  of  those  parts.  In  size  and  form  it  is  not  unlike  the 
salmon,  but  its  flesh  is  white,  although  similar  in  point  of  firmness  and 
flavour.  Many  of  the  recipes  for  cooking  salmon  which  are  included 
in  the  section  devoted  exclusively  to  fish,  are  applicable  to  the  dressing 
of  seer. 

3874.— TAMARIND  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — Ripe  tamarinds,  castor  sugar. 

Method. — Pack  the  fruit  compactly  in  a  fireproof  jar,  sprinkling  each 
layer  lightly  with  sugar,  and  cover  closely.  Cook  in  a  cool  oven  until 
tender,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  put  into  jars.  Fasten 
securely  so  as  to  completely  exclude  the  air,  and  store  for  use. 

Time. — 2  to  3  hours.     Sufficient  for  i  jar.     Cost,  uncertain. 


AMERICAN  AND 
CANADIAN  COOKERY 


CHAPTER    LIX 

Cookery  in  the  cities  of  America  and  Canada  differs  very  little  if  at  all 
from  cookery  in  England.  If  Caneton  a  1'Aylesbury  were  substituted 
for  the  Canvas-back  Duck,  which  appears  in  the  menu  of  a  banquet 
recently  given  at  the  White  House,  in  every  other  respect — as  regards 
materials  employed  and  arrangement  of  service — it  would  correspond 
with  similar  functions  at  the  Mansion  House.  Evidently  the  French 
cuisine  is  as  much  appreciated  and  as  much  sought  after  in  America 
and  Canada  as  in  England  :  although,  like  every  other  nation, 
Americans  and  Canadians  have  several  dishes  prepared  from  fish, 
animals,  and  fruits  which  are  common  to  the  country. 

Fish. — The  employment  of  fish  in  America  as  a  diet  is  exceptionally 
large,  the  immense  extent  of  the  American  coasts,  both  Atlantic 
and  the  Pacific,  being  still  further  supplemented  by  the  resources 
of  the  large  rivers  and  great  lakes,  so  that  a  constant  supply  is 
obtainable  of  not  only  most  of  the  varieties  esteemed  in  England, 
but  of  others  unknown  to  us.  Of  these  latter  we  may  mention  the 
blue  fish  (Temnodon  saltator\  a  member  of  the  family  Scomberidae, 
is  abundant  on  the  east  coast  of  North  America.  It  is  from  2  to  3  feet 
in  length,  and  in  appearance  is  silvery  below  and  bluish  above  :  hence 
its  name.  The  Cusk,  another  variety  unknown  to  us,  is  a  cod-like  fish 
found  abundantly  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  There 
is  also  the  Taulog,  a  fish  of  blackish  hue,  irregularly  barred  with  green, 
and  found  principally  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  contiguous  to  the  United 
States.  The  Pickerel  we  are  familiar  with  under  another  name,  for  it 
corresponds  exactly  with  the  English  Pike. 

Sweet  Dishes. — The  Americans  have  a  marked  taste  for  sweet  dishes,  in 
which  taste  they  show  dietetic  wisdom.  The  value  of  sugar  as  an  article 
of  food  is  sometimes  overlooked  by  people  who  have  accustomed  them- 
selves to  a  highly  nitrogenous  diet.  Hot  cakes  at  breakfast  are  quite  a 
national  institution.  These  are  often  made  with  soda  or  baking  powder, 
and  must  be  regarded  as  somewhat  beyond  the  capacities  of  average 
digestive  organs. 

iru 


TYPICAL   AMERICAN    AND    CANADIAN    DISHES    1615 

In  the  manufacture  of  sweets,  called  candies,  the  Americans  have 
achieved  a  well  recognized  reputation,  while  for  ices  and  iced  drinks 
of  great  variety  they  are  very  famous. 


Typical  American  and  Canadian 

Dishes 

3875.— APRICOTS,  TO  DRY. 

Ingredients. — Apricots  (not  quite  ripe),  sugar. 

Method. — Pare,  halve  and  stone  the  fruit,  pack  it  rather  closely  in 
a  fireproof  jar,  and  place  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Cook 
until  the  apricots  are  quite  tender,  then  drain  well,  place  them  on  dishes 
in  single  layers  and  dredge  them  liberally  with  sugar.  Let  them 
remain  in  a  warm  place  until  dry,  then  pack  in  air-tight  tins,  with 
paper  between  each  layer.  Peaches,  nectarines  and  plums  may  be 
dried  by  above  method. 

Time. — About  24  hours.     Seasonable  from  August  to  September. 

3876.— BLUEFISH,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — i  bluefish,  i  cupful  of  cracker  (biscuit)  crumbs,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  i  tablespoonful  of  capers,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  J  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  pepper,  about  \  a  cupful  of  cold  water. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  fish.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  together, 
stuff  the  fish  with  the  mixture,  and  secure  the  opening.  Place  the  fish 
in  a  dish  or  baking  tin,  which  place  in  a  large  tin  containing  boiling 
water,  and  bake  gently  from  45  to  60  minutes,  meanwhile  basting  the 
fish  occasionally  with  butter  or  fat.  Serve  with  a  suitable  sauce. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for 
3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

3877.— BLUEFISH,  TO  COOK. 

Broiling  or  grilling  will  be  found  peculiarly  adapted  to  this  delicious, 
but  somewhat  rich  fish.  It  is  also  very  good  boiled  or  baked. 

3878.—  BUCKWHEAT  CAKES. 

Ingredients. —  i  cup  of  buckwheat  flour,  £  a  cup  of  Indian  corn  meal, 
\  a  cup  of  fine  flour,  £  of  a  cup  of  brewer's  yeast,  %  a  teaspoonfnl  of 
salt,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  i  pint  of  boiling  milk  or 
water. 


1616  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Pour  the  boiling  water  or  milk  over  the  Indian  corn  meal, 
add  the  salt,  and  stir  well.  Let  it  remain  covered  until  lukewarm,  then 
add  the  buckwheat  flour,  the  white  flour,  and  the  yeast,  and  beat  well. 
Cover  with  a  cloth,  and  let  the  preparation  stand  all  night,  and  in  the 
morning  repeat  the  beating.  When  the  batter  has  risen  again,  add  the 
soda  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water,  beat  well  again,  and  at  once  bake 
on  a  griddle. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  /d.  Sufficient  for 
i  £  Ibs.  of  cakes.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


3879.— CANNED  CORN. 

Ingredients. — i  can  of  corn,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  a  pint  of  milk,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  milk,  i  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  talt,  i  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper. 

Method. — Simmer  the  corn,  milk,  sugar  and  seasoning  together  for 
20  minutes,  then  stir  in  the  butter  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  2  or 
3  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

Note. — For  other  recipes  see  Nos.  1492-1497. 


3880.— CHICKEN  SOUP  AND  GREEN  CORN. 

Ingredients. — i  chicken  or  small  fowl,  i  dozen  ears  of  green  corn, 
£  of  a  Ib.  of  rice,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  chicken  or  fowl  into  neat  joints,  put  these  into  a 
stewpan  with  just  as  much  cold  water  as  will  completely  cover  them, 
and  add  the  corn,  which  must  be  previously  removed  from  the  cob. 
Season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  cover  closely,  and  simmer  gently 
for  about  i  hour,  adding  more  water  from  time  to  time  so  as  to  keep 
the  whole  barely  covered.  When  ready,  strain,  return  the  stock  and 
corn  to  the  stewpan,  bring  to  the  boil,  put  in  the  rice,  and  cook  gently 
for  20  minutes.  Cut  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  then  into  dice, 
add  it  with  the  parsley  and  necessary  seasoning  to  the  contents  of  the 
stewpan,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  43.  Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons. 
Seasonable  from  July  to  September. 

MAIZE  OR  INDIAN  CORN  grows  plentifully  and  extensively  in  America.  Asia  and  Africa ;  it  is  also 
largely  cultivated  in  the  south  of  Germany.  Until  recent  years,  this  plant  with  its  tall  stem,  and 
flag-like  foliage  and  silvery  fringe,  was  grown  in  this  country  almost  solely  for  decorative  purposes, 
but  the  cobs  themselves  were  not  made  use  of  in  England  until  some  market  gardeners  discovered 
the  edible  value  of  the  cob,  that  is,  the  head  of  the  maize  plant.  These,  when  ripe,  may  be  eaten  in 
the  green  state,  and  possess  a  very  delicate  flavour,  which  becomes  more  developed  when  cooked. 

Corn  on  the  cob  is  the  American  name  given  to  the  head  of  the  maize  plant.  It  is  sweeter  and  better 
flavoured  if  cooked  without  disturbing  the  husk,  but  as  the  removal  of  the  silk  and  husk  is  attended 
with  so  ne  difficulty  after  cooking,  it  has  become  the  custom  to  strip  down  the  husk,  remove  the  silk, 
tie  the  end  tightly,  and  so  cook  it  in  seasoned  milk  and  water,  in  equal  quantities.  It  takes  from  15  to 
20  minutes  to  boil.  If  preferred,  the  corn  may  be  cooked  in  salted  water.  It  is  served  in  the  husks, 
and  sent  to  table  with  melted  butter  sauce,  or  oiled  butter. 


TYPICAL  AMERICAN   AND  CANADIAN   DISHES    1617 
3881.— CLAM  CHOWDER. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  clams,  6  or  8  large  potatoes  cut  into  dice,  2 
onions  cut  into  dice,  4  ozs.  of  bacon  or  pork  cut  into  dice,  4  tomatoes 
sliced,  2  level  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Method. — Wash,  drain,  and  chop  the  clams.  Fry  the  pork  or  bacon 
and  onions  until  the  latter  is  very  lightly  browned,  put  in  the  potatoes 
and  tomatoes,  barely  cover  with  cold  water,  add  salt  and  pepper,  and 
cook  gently  for  about  30  minutes.  Put  in  the  clams,  add  more 
seasoning  if  necessary.  Continue  to  cook  slowly  for  10  or  15  minutes 
longer,  and  serve.  If  liked,  the  chowder  may  be  thickened  by  adding 
crushed  cracker  (biscuit)  crumbs. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  8d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6 
persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  April. 

3882.— CLAM  SOUP. 

Ingredients. — ^  a  peck  of  clams  in  the  shell,  i£  pints  of  milk,  i  pint 
of  boiling  water,  2  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  flour,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
chopped  onion,  i  dessertspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  brush  the  clams  well,  place  them  in  a  steamer, 
or  in  a  large  saucepan  with  just  enough  water  to  prevent  the  bott«>;n 
layer  burning,  and  cook  them  gently  until  the  shells  can  be  < 
opened  with  a  knife.  Remove  the  fish  from  the  shells,  taking  care  to 
preserve  all  the  liquor  in  the  shells  and  saucepan,  and  take  away  the 
thin  skin.  Remove  the  black  end  of  each  clam  with  a  pair  of  scissors, 
and  cut  the  "  leather  straps  "  into  small  pieces,  keeping  the  soft  and 
hard  parts  of  the  clams  separate  until  required.  Strain  the  clam  liquor 
into  a  stewpan,  add  the  boiling  water,  onion,  the  hard  parts  of  the 
clams,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes,  then  strain. 
Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  clam  stock  and  milk  and  brins; 
to  the  boil.  Season  to  taste,  simmer  gently  for  5  minutes  to  thoroughly 
cook  the  flour,  then  add  the  soft  parts  of  the  clams  and  the  parsley, 
and  serve  at  once  with  crackers  (biscuits)  and  pickles. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  7  or 
8  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

3883.— CLAMS  AU  GRATIN. 

Ingredients. — -J-  a  peck  of  clams  in  their  shells,  2  large  tomatoes, 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  fresh  breadcrumbs,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped 
onion,  i  teaspoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
powdered  mixed  herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  butter,  lightly-browned  bread^ 
crumbs. 

Method. — Prepare  and  cook  the  clams  as  directed  in  "  Clam  Soup," 
and  chop  them  finely.  Pass  the  tomatoes  through  a  fine  sieve,  stir  the 


1618  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

puree  into  the  clams,  add  the  breadcrumbs,  onion,  parsley,  herbs, 
seasoning  to  taste,  and  as  much  of  the  clam  liquor  as  will  slightly 
moisten  the  whole.  Turn  into  a  well-buttered  gratin  dish  or  scallop 
shells,  cover  lightly  with  slightly-browned  breadcrumbs,  add  a  few 
bits  of  butter,  and  bake  from  10  to  20  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Serve  hot. 

Time. — About  45  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  3d.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5 
persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

3884.— CLAMS,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — Clams,  bread  and  butter. 

Method. — Thoroughly  wash  and  dry  the  clams,  and  bake  them  on  a 
tin  in  the  oven  until  the  shells  open.  Serve  them  in  the  shells,  and  hand 
with  thinly  cut  bread  and  butter. 

Time. — About  25  minutes.  Average,  Cost,  4d.  each  person.  Sufficient, 
allow  12  to  each  person.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

3885.— CLAMS  ON  TOAST. 

Ingredients. — 2  doz.  clams,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  i  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  3  slices  of  buttered  toast. 

Method. — Beard,  blanch  and  dry  the  clams.  Heat  the  butter,  add 
lemon  juice  and  seasoning,  put  in  the  clams,  toss  them  over  the  fire 
for  2  or  3  minutes,  and  serve  on  the  prepared  toast. 

Time. — About  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about  6d  or  8d.  Sufficient, 
for  3  persons.  Seasonable,  September  to  April. 

3886.— COOKIES. 

Ingredients. — 2  cups  of  flour,  i  cup  of  sugar,  \  a  cup  of  butter,  £  of  a 
cup  of  milk,  i  egg,  i  heaped  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 
i  Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  smooth  and 
white,  then  beat  in  the  egg,  and  stir  in  the  milk.  Pass  the  flour  and 
baking-powder  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  stir  them  into  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients.  The  mixture  must  be  firm  enough  to  roll  out,  therefore 
dredge  in  more  flour  until  the  right  consistency  is  obtained.  Roll  out 
thinly,  stamp  into  rounds,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until 
crisp. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for 
if  Ibs.  of  cookies.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3887.— COOKIES,  CARAWAY. 

Ingredients. — 3^  cups  of  flour,  i  cup  of  butter,  \\  cups  of  sugar,  £  a 
cup  of  sour  cream  or  milk,  2  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  caraway  seeds,  i 
level  teaspoonful  of  soda,  salt. 


TYPICAL   AMERICAN    AND    CANADIAN    DISHES     1619 

Method. — Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour,  add  the  sugar,  caraway 
seeds  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and  mix  well.  Beat  the  egg  until  light, 
add  the  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  sour  milk  or  cream. 
Mix  quickly  with  the  dry  ingredients,  add  as  much  more  flour  as  may 
be  necessary  to  form  a  light  dough,  roll  out  thinly.  Cut  into  rounds 
or  other  shapes,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  crisp. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient 
for  3  Ibs  of  Cookies.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3888.— COOKIES,  COCOANUT. 

Ingredients. — 2  cups  of  fine  flour,  i  cup  of  grated  or  desiccated  cocoa- 
nut,  i  cup  of  fine  sugar,  £  a  cup  of  butter,  2  eggs,  i  tablespooniul  of 
milk,  i  heaped  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Method. — Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  thick  and 
white,  then  beat  in  the  eggs.  Add  the  cocoanut,  milk,  the  flour  and 
baking-powder  previously  sieved,  and  mix  well.  Roll  out,  adding 
more  flour  if  necessary,  stamp  into  rounds  or  other  shapes,  and  bake 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  crisp. 

Time. — To  bake,  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  Sufficient  for  2^ 
Ibs.  of  Cookies.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


3889.— CRACKER  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — j  of  a  Ib.  of  finely-chopped  beef  suet,  i  cup  of  cracker 
crumbs,  3  cups  of  milk,  4  eggs,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt. 

Method. — Pour  the  milk  over  the  crushed  crackers,  and  let  them 
soak  while  preparing  the  other  ingredients.  When  ready,  mix  the  suet 
with  the  cracker  crumbs,  add  the  sugar,  salt,  and  lastly  the  well- 
beaten  eggs,  and  stir  well.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  greased  pie-dish, 
and  bake  from  40  to  50  minutes.  Serve  hot  with  jam  or  fruit  sauce. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  40  to  50  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d. 
Sufficient  for  i  pudding.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3890.— CRANBERRY  SAUCE. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  cranberries,  i  Ib.  of   sugar,  i  pint  of  water. 

Method. — Pick  the  cranberries  carefully,  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  the  water,  and  cook  slowly  for  about  i  hour,  or  until  reduced 
nearly  to  a  pulp.  Stir  from  time  to  time  during  the  process,  and  when 
they  are  sufficiently  cooked  stir  in  the  sugar  and  turn  into  a  dish  to 
cool.  Serve  with  turkey,  ducks  or  game. 

Time.— From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  8d.  orgd.  Sufficient,  about 
i  pint.  Seasonable  from  October  to  March. 


1620  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3891.— CRULLERS. 

Ingredients. — Flour,  i  egg,  i  cup  of  sugar,  i  cup  of  sour  cream,  I  small 
teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  ^  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  -|-  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  cinnamon  or  mace. 

Method. — Beat  the  egg,  add  the  sugar,  cream,  salt,  cinnamon  or  mace, 
the  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  as  much  flour  as  will 
form  the  whole  into  a  soft  dough.  Roll  out  the  mixture  to  about  £  an 
inch  in  thickness,  stamp  into  rounds,  and  take  out  the  centre  of  each 
one  with  a  cutter.  Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  fry  the  crullers 
until  lightly  browned,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  fry,  10  to  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  nd. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3892.— CUP  CAKES,  PLAIN. 

Ingredients. — 3  level  cupfuls  of  flour,  i  cupful  of  sugar,  \  a  cupful  of 
butter,  i  cupful  of  milk,  3  eggs,  i  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar, 
i  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  the  finely  grated  rind  and  juice  of 
i  lemon. 

Method. — Sieve  the  flour,  cream  of  tartar  and  soda  together.  Beat 
and  add  the  eggs,  stir  in  the  milk,  lemon  rind  and  juice,  and  lastly  the 
flour.  Bake  in  shallow  tins  or  small  cups. 

Time. — From  20  to  25  minutes  to  bake.  Average  Cost,  is.  to  is.  2d. 
Sufficient  for  2  cakes  or  18  small  ones.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3893.— CUP  CAKES,  RICH. 

Ingredients. — 4  cupfuls  of  flour,  2  cupfuls  of  sugar,  i  cupful  of  butter, 
\  a  cupful  of  milk,  6  eggs,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  \  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  essence,  i  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  £  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  yolks  of 
eggs,  milk  and  vanilla  essence,  and  after  sieving  together  the  flour, 
cream  of  tartar  and  soda,  stir  it  lightly  in.  Lastly  add  the  whites  of 
eggs,  previously  stiffly  whisked.  Bake  in  a  fairly  hot  oven. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  2s.  2d.  Sufficient 
for  2  cakes.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3894. — DRIED    FRUIT   (Apples,  Apricots,  Nectarines, 
Peaches,  etc.). 

Ingredients. — Fruit,  sugar,  lemon  rind,  cloves  or  cinnamon  to  flavour 
Method. — The  following  method  is  applicable  to  any  of  the  dried 
fruits  from  California  and  other  countries.  Rinse  or  wash  the  fruit 
in  cold  water,  cover  it  with  fresh  cold  water,  and  let  it  remain  in  soak 
for  10  or  12  hours  until  well  swollen.  Turn  both  fruit  and  water  into 
a  stewpan  or  a  jar  placed  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  gently 


TYPICAL   AMERICAN    AND    CANADIAN    DISHES    1621 

until  the  fruit  is  tender.  Sugar  to  taste,  or  sugar  boiled  to  a  syrup 
(see  To  Clarify  Sugar  for  Syrup,  No.  2599),  and  flavouring  ingredients 
should  be  added  when  the  fruit  is  about  half  cooked.  When  syrup  is 
used  the  water  required  for  it  should  be  taken  from  the  vessel  con- 
taining the  fruit,  unless  a  rather  liquid  compote  is  liked.  The  water 
in  which  the  fruit  soaks  always  extracts  some  of  the  flavour  of  the 
fruit,  and  the  latter  should  therefore  be  cooked  in  it.  Much  stirring 
should  be  avoided,  as  dried  fruit,  when  nearly  cooked,  breaks  easily. 

Newtown  pippins,  from  which  the  peel  and  cores  have  been  removed, 
and  Normandy  pippins,  from  which  only  the  peel  is  removed,  may 
require  soaking  a  little  more  than  apple  rings  and  apple  chips. 

Time. — Altogether  u£  to  13^  hours.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient,  £  Ib.  of  fruit  for  i  good  dish.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3895._GRAHAM  BREAD. 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  Graham  flour,  i  quartern  of  ordinary  flour,  £  a 
cupful  of  molasses,  £  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast  (or  i  oz.  of  compressed 
yeast),  i  level  tablespoonful  of  salt,  about  ij  pints  of  warm  water. 

Method.— :>iix  the  Graham  and  ordinary  flour  and  the  salt  together, 
add  the  molasses,  yeast  and  water,  and  beat  well  for  20  minutes.  Cover 
the  bowl,  let  the  dough  remain  undisturbed  all  night,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing shape  it  into  2  or  3  loaves.  Let  them  rise  to  nearly  double  their 
original  size,  then  bake  in  a  fairly  hot  oven  for  about  i£  hours.  The 
dough  is  so  soft  that  it  cannot  be  moulded,  but  it  may  be  made  into 
by  means  of  French  roll  pans. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  if  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient  for 
2  loaves.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3896.— GRAHAM  GRIDDLE  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — i  cupful  of  Graham  flour,  i  cupful  of  ordinary  flour, 
2  eggs,  i  pint  of  sour  milk  (or  sweet  milk  and  2  teaspoonfuls  of  cream 
of  tartar),  i  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  £  a  tcaspoonful  of  salt, 
i  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  oiled  butter. 

Method. — Dissolve  the  carbonate  of  soda  in  a  little  warm  water.  Mix 
the  Graham  and  ordinary  flour,  salt,  sugar  (and  cream  of  tartar,  if 
used)  together.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  butter,  milk  and  dissolved 
soda,  mix  with  the  flour,  and  beat  or  knead  until  smooth.  Fry  on  the 
griddle  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  bake  each  cake,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  lod.  to 
i  id.  Sufficient  for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3897.— GRIDDLE  BREAD. 

Ingredients. —  i^   pints  of  flour,    i|  pints  of  warm  water  (about),  2 


1622  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

tablespoonfuls  of  oiled  butter,  2  heaped  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder, 
i  level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  i  egg. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  baking  powder  and  salt  together.  Beat  the 
eggs,  add  the  butter  and  water  to  them,  and  mix  with  the  flour.  Knead 
well,  adding  a  little  more  water  should  the  dough  be  too  stiff.  Form 
at  once  into  cakes,  and  cook  on  the  griddle. 

Time. — To  cook  each  cake,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  7d.  to  8d. 
Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3898.— HALIBUT,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — 3  Ibs.  of  halibut,  milk,  salt  and  pepper,  tomato  sauce 
(see  "Sauces,"  No.  281). 

Method. — Dip  the  dark  portion  of  the  skin  into  boiling  water,  and 
scrape  it  clean.  Season  the  entire  surface  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  place  the  fish  in  an  earthenware  baking-dish,  surrounded  with 
milk  to  the  depth  of  nearly  i  inch.  Bake  gently  for  i  hour,  basting 
frequently,  then  serve  with  tomato  sauce.  If  preferred,  serve  with 
egg  or  white  sauce,  in  the  preparation  of  wrhich  the  liquor  from  the  fish 
should  be  used. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  to  35.  Sufficient 
for  6  or  7  persons.  Seasonable  from  May  to  January. 

3899.— HALIBUT  STEAKS. 

Ingredients. — 2  or  3  slices  of  halibut,  i  egg,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
crackers,  salt  and  pepper,  frying-fat,  parsley. 

Method. — Wipe  and  thoroughly  dry  the  fish,  season  the  flour  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  dip  each  slice  of  fish  in  the  mixture.  Coat  care- 
fully with  beaten  egg  and  powdered  crackers,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  until 
lightly  browned.  Drain  well,  and  serve  on  a  dish  paper  or  folded 
serviette  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  Halibut,  6d.  to  8d.  per  Ib. 
Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons.  Seasonable  from  May  to  January. 

3900.— HUCKLEBERRY  CAKE. 

Ingredients. — 1£  cups  of  huckleberries,  i  cup  of  sour  milk,  \  a  cup  of 
sugar,  J  of  a  cup  of  butter,  i£  cups  of  flour,  i  egg,  £  a  teaspoonful  of 
carbonate  of  soda,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

1  Method. — Sieve  the  salt  and  flour  together,  and  dissolve  the  soda 
in  a  little  warm  water.  Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  until  white  and 
creamy,  stir  in  the  yolk  of  egg,  and  add  the  fruit  and  flour  as  lightly  as 
possible.  Whisk  the  white  of  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  stir  it  and  the  dissolved 
soda  lightly  into  the  mixture,  and  pour  into  well-buttered  shallow  tins. 
Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  If  more  convenient,  new  milk  and  2 
level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  may  be  used  instead  of  sour  milk 
and  soda. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  about  is.  Sufficient  for  2 
cakes.  Seasonable,  July  to  September. 


TYPICAL    AMERICAN    AND    CANADIAN    DISHES    1623 
3901.— HUCKLEBERRY  PUDDING. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  huckleberries  (known  in  England  as  whortle- 
berries), i  pint  of  milk,  2  eggs,  6  ozs.  oi  flour  (about),  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar,  £  of  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  £  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  cream  of  tartar  and  salt  with  the  flour,  and  dis- 
solve the  soda  in  the  milk.  Stir  the  eggs  into  the  flour,  add  the 
milk  gradually,  and  beat  well.  Pick  and  mash  the  berries,  stir 
them  into  the  batter,  and  add  the  dissolved  soda.  The  batter 
should  be  rather  thick;  a  little  more  flour  should  therefore  be  dredged 
in  if  the  required  consistency  has  not  been  obtained.  Turn  into  a 
well-buttered  basin,  and  boil  for  i  hour,  or  steam  for  i£  hours.  Serve 
with  a  sweet  sauce. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  lod.  Sufficient 
for  i  pudding.  Seasonable  July  to  September. 

3902.— JOMBALAYAH. 

Ingredients. — 4  ozs.  of  Patna  rice,  4  ozs.  of  cooked  ham,  i  lettuce, 
cayenne  pepper,  pepper  and  salt. 

Method. — Pick  and  wash  the  rice,  put  it  into  a  large  stewpan  of  rapidly 
boiling  salted  water,  boil  until  tender,  and  dry  well  (see  "  Rice  for 
Curry  ").  Chop  the  ham  finely,  add  it  to  the  rice  when  cold,  season 
highly,  and  serve  with  lettuce  leaves  round  the  dish,  and  the  heart 
in  the  centre.  Usually  served  as  a  cold  breakfast  dish. 

Time. — About  i  hour.  Average  Cost,  8d.  Sufficient  for  2  or  3  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3903.— JUMBLES. 

Ingredients. — 14  ozs.  of  flour,  5  ozs.  of  sugar,  3  ozs.  of  butter,  i  egg, 
the  finely  grated  rind  and  juice  of  i  lemon,  3  teaspoonfuls  of  milk, 
i  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  egg,  milk, 
lemon  juice  and  rind.  Sieve  the  flour,  cream  of  tartar  and  soda,  and 
mix  with  the  other  ingredients.  Roll  out  rather  thinly  and  cut  into 
rounds,  or  cut  into  long,  narrow  strips,  which  after  being  lightly  pressed 
into  a  round  shape  with  the  palm  of  the  hand,  should  be  wound  round 
and  round  to  form  small  cakes.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Time. — To   bake,   about    10   minutes.     Average    Cost,   gd,    to    lod. 
Sufficient  for  about  \\  Ibs.  of  Jumbles.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3904.— LEMON  PIE. 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  puff  paste,  7  ozs.  of  castor  sugar,  3  eggs,  i  pint 
oi  milk,  i  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  i 
lemon. 


1624        HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Method. — Cover  a  deep  plate  or  dish  with  the  paste,  and  bake  in  a 
hot  oven  until  three-quarters  cooked.  Mix  the  cornflour  smoothly 
with  a  little  milk,  boil  the  remainder,  and  pour  it  over  the  cornflour, 
stirring  briskly  meanwhile.  Replace  in  the  stewpan,  add  i  oz.  of 
sugar,  the  lemon-rind  and  yolks  of  eggs,  and  stir  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Have  this  preparation  ready  to  pour 
into  the  pastry  when  about  three-quarters  baked,  and  set  it  in  the 
oven.  Beat  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  stir  the  remaining 
sugar  in  lightly,  and  pile  the  meringue  on  the  top  of  the  pie.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  the  top  is  crisp  and  lightly  browned,  and  serve. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  35  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  id.  Sufficient 
for  i  pie.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3905.— MUSH. 

Ingredients. — i  cup  of  white  corn  meal,  2  quarts  of  boiling  water, 
i  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

Method. — Mix  the  meal  smoothly  with  a  little  cold  water.  Boil  the 
remainder  of  the  water,  and  pour  in  the  moistened  meal  gradually, 
so  as  not  to  reduce  the  water  below  boiling  point,  stirring  briskly  mean- 
while. Cover  closely,  and  simmer  very  gently  from  i  to  i£  hours, 
stirring  from  time  to  time  to  equalize  the  cooking.  Serve  hot  with 
milk,  butter  or  syrup. 

Time. — About  2  hours.  Average  Cost,  2d.  Sufficient  for  5  or  6  persons. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3906.— MUSH  CROQUETTES. 

Ingredients. —  i  quart  of  mush,  i  oz.  of  butter,  2  eggs,  frying-fat. 

Method. — Prepare  the  mush  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe, 
and  when  it  is  sufficiently  cooked  add  the  butter  and  eggs.  Stir  by 
the  side  of  the  fire  for  3  or  4  minutes  to  cook  the  eggs,  then  turn  the 
preparation  on  to  a  plate.  When  cool  enough  to  handle  form  into 
cork-shaped  croquettes,  and  put  them  aside  until  quite  cold  and  firm. 
When  ready  to  serve,  fry  them  in  hot  fat  and  drain  well. 

Time. — To  fry  the  croquettes,  about  1 5  minutes.  Average  Cost,  about 
6d.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3907.— MUSH,  FRIED. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  mush,  i  egg,  bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  frying- 
fat,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Prepare  the  mush  as  directed  (see  No.  3905),  season  it  well 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  spread  it  on  a  dish  to  the  depth  of  i  inch. 
When  quite  cold  cut  it  into  finger-shaped  pieces  3  inches  long  and  i  inch 
wide,  and  coat  carefully  with  beaten  egg  and  cracker  crumbs  or  bread- 
crumbs. Have  ready  a  deep  pan  of  hot  fat,  and  fry  the  mush  until 
lightly  browned.  Drain  well  and  serve  hot. 


TYPICAL   AMERICAN    AND    CANADIAN    DISHES       1625 

Time. — To  fry,  about  15  minutes.  Average  Cost,  5d.  Sufficient  for  6 
or  7  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3908.— OYSTERS,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — i  solid  pint  of  oysters,  £  of  a  cupful  of  good  white  stock, 
£  a  cupful  of  finely-chopped  mushrooms,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  onion,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  i  heaped  tablespooniul  of 
flour,  i  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  i  heaped  teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of 
a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  the  yolks  of 
2  eggs,  \  a  pint  of  breadcrumbs. 

Method. — Bring  the  oysters  and  stock  just  to  boiling  point,  then 
strain  and  preserve  the  liquor.  Cook  the  onion  and  mushrooms  lightly 
in  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  add  the  liquor,  and  stir  until  boiling. 
Add  the  yolks  of  eggs,  seasoning,  lemon  juice,  and  lastly  the  oysters. 
At  once  turn  into  a  well-buttered  dish,  cover  with  breadcrumbs,  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  few  bits  of  butter.  Brown  the  surface 
in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  25.  to  2s.  3d. 
Sufficient  for  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

39o9._OYSTERS  COOKED  IN  A  CHAFING  DISH. 

Ingredients. — i  solid  pint  of  oysters,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  a 
small  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  slices  of  buttered 
toast. 

Method. — Melt  the  butter  in  the  chafing  dish,  put  in  the  oysters,  and 
sprinkle  in  the  seasoning.  Stir  repeatedly  and  cook  gently  until  the 
oysters  begin  to  curl  at  the  edges,  then  serve  at  once  on  the  prepared 
toast.  Variety  may  be  introduced  by  adding  either  2  or  3  tablespoon- 
fuls of  thick  cream  just  before  serving,  or  2  yolks  of  eggs  beaten  with 
the  juice  of  i  lemon. 

Time. — About  16  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  6d.  Sufficient  for  3  or 
4  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

3910.— OYSTERS,  STEWED. 

Ingredients. — i  quart  of  liquid  oysters,  i  quart  of  milk,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls of  butter,  i  heaped  tablespoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Method. — Drain  the  liquid  from  the  oysters,  bring  it  and  the  milk 
to  boiling  point.  Knead  the  butter  and  flour  together,  divide  into 
small  pieces,  stir  them  into  the  milk  and  oyster  liquor,  and  add  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Boil  gently  for  3  minutes,  put  in  the  oysters, 
bring  again  to  the  boil,  draw  the  stewpan  aside  for  2  or  3  minutes,  and 
at  once  serve.  If  preferred,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  cracker 
crumbs  may  replace  the  flour. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  4d.  to  is.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  4  or  5  persons.  Seasonable  from  September  to  April. 

OYSTERS.— In  the  United  States  oysters  are  more  frequently  sold  by  measure  than  number. 
When  sold  by  measure,  a  considerable  amount  of  water  is  added  to  the  liquid  contained  in  the  shells, 
hence  the  name  "  liquid  oysters." 


1626  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3911.— PEACHES,  TO  DRY. 

Ingredients. — Peaches  (not  quite  ripe),  an  equal  weight  of  sugar. 

Method. — Scald  and  remove  the  skins,  divide  and  stone  the  fruit. 
Place  them  on  dishes,  cover  with  sugar,  let  them  remain  for  24  hours, 
then  put  the  whole  into  a  preserving  pan  and  simmer  gently  until 
clear.  Turn  into  an  earthenware  vessel,  after  two  days  drain  off,  boil 
up,  and  replace  the  syrup,  let  them  remain  two  days  longer,  then  drain 
away  the  syrup,  and  dredge  the  peaches  liberally  with  fine  sugar. 
Leave  them  in  single  layers  in  a  cool  place  until  dry,  then  pack  them 
in  air-tight  tins,  with  paper  between  each  layer.  Apricots,  nectarines 
or  plums  may  be  dried  by  this  method. 

Time. — 5  or  6  days.     Seasonable  from  August  to  September. 

3912.— PICKERIL,  TO  COOK. 

See  recipes  Nos.  574-8  for  cooking  pike,  which  this  fish  resembles. 

3913.— POP  OVERS. 

Ingredients. — i  teacupful  of  white  flour,  i  teacupful  of  milk,  i  egg, 
salt  to  taste. 

Method. — Make  a  batter  of  the  ingredients,  pour  into  a  hot,  greased, 
pop-over  tin,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Pop-over  tins  are  similar  to 
sheets  of  patty  pans,  but  the  hollows  are  deeper. 

Time. — From  20  to  25  minutes.  Average  Cost,  3d.  to  4d.  Sufficient  for 
5  or  6  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3914.— RICE  GRIDDLE  CAKES. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  plainly  boiled  rice,  2  cups  of  white  flour, 
2  pints  of  milk,  i  tablespoonf ul  of  oiled  butter,  i  tablespoonf ul  of  sugar, 
i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  i  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  3  eggs. 

Method. — Add  one  pint  of  milk  to  the  rice,  cover  it  and  let  stand  all 
night.  In  the  morning  stir  in  the  flour,  sugar,  salt,  and  baking  powder. 
Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  butter  and  remaining  pint  of  milk  to  them,  mix 
with  the  flour,  etc.,  and  beat  well.  Fry  on  the  griddle  and  serve  hot. 

Time. — To  fry  the  cakes,  about  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  id.  to 
is.  4d.  Sufficient  for  8  or  9  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3915.— RYE  BREAD. 

Ingredients. — 2  quarts  of  rye  flour,  £  a  cupful  of  liquid  yeast  (or  i  oz. 
of  compressed  yeast),  i  tablespoonf  ul  of  sugar,  i  tablespoonf  ul  of 
butter  oiled,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  i£  pints  of  warm  water. 

Method. — Mix  the  flour,  sugar  and  salt  together.  To  the  water  add 
the  yeast  and  butter,  and  stir  the  whole  into  the  flour.  Knead  well, 
cover  closely,  and  let  it  remain  in  a  warm  place  for  about  8  hours. 
When  ready  shape  into  3  loaves,  or  2  loaves  and  some  small  rolls,  let 


TYPICAL  AMERICAN  AND  CANADIAN  DISHES    1627 


them  remain  near  the  stove  until  they  rise  to  twice  their  original  size, 
and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  The  loaves  will  require  from  i  to 
i\  hours,  and  the  rolls  from  20  to  25  minutes. 

Time. — About  10  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  3  loaves. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3916.— RYE  POP  OVERS. 

Ingredients. — 1£  cups  of  rye  flour,  i  cupful  of  white  flour,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  2  eggs,  i  pint  of  milk. 

Method. — Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  to 
them  the  milk,  and  gradually  mix  with  the  flour.  When  sufficiently 
moist  to  offer  little  resistance  to  the  spoon  beat  well.  Stir  in  the 
remainder  of  the  milk  and  egg,  turn  into  well-buttered  cups  or  pop-over 
tins,  and  bake  in  a  fairly  hot  oven. 

Time. — To  bake,  from  20  to  30  minutes.     Average  Cost,  about  9d. 
Sufficient  for  6  or  8  persons.     Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3917.— SHAD,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — Shad,  4  ozs.  of  breadcrumbs,  2  ozs.  of  finely-chopped 
cooked  lean  ham,  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  oz.  of  flour,  i  egg,  £  of  a  pint  of  port 
wine,  £  of  a  pint  of  water,  milk,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  mixed 
herbs,  i  lemon,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wipe  and  dry  the  fish  thoroughly,  mix  the  breadcrumbs, 
ham,  herbs,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper  well  together,  moisten  it  with 
£  the  egg  and  a  little  milk,  and  stuff  the  fish.  Place  the  fish  in  a  well- 
buttered  baking-dish  or  tin,  brush  it  over  with  egg,  and  spread  the 
remaining  stuffing  on  the  outside  of  the  fish.  Pour  the  wine  and 
water  round,  cover  the  fish  with  a  buttered  paper,  and  bake  in  a  moder- 
ate oven  for  about  i  hour.  Shortly  before  the  fish  is  done  melt  the 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour,  strain  and  add  the  liquor  from  the 
fish,  bring  to  the  boil,  and  simmer  for  5  minutes.  Serve  with  the  sauce 
round,  and  garnish  with  sliced  lemon. 

Time. — 1£  hours.  Average  Cost,  is.,  in  addition  to  the  fish.  Sufficient, 
allow  4  Ibs.  of  fish  for  8  or  9  persons.  Seasonable  from  April  to  June. 

3918.— SLAW,  COLD. 

Ingredients. — i  tender  cabbage,  i  egg,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint 
of  vinegar,  i  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  teaspoonful  of  celery  seed,  salt. 

Method. — Shred  the  cabbage  finely,  rejecting  the  stalk  and  outer 
leaves.  Warm  the  vinegar  and  butter  in  an  enamelled  pan,  put  in  the 
cabbage,  sprinkle  over  it  the  celery  seed,  flour  and  a  good  pinch  of 
salt,  and  cook  gently  for  a  few  minutes.  Beat  the  egg  lightly,  add 
it  to  the  contents  ot  the  pan,  and  stir  and  cook  for  3  or  4  minutes. 
Serve  cold. 

Time. — About  30  minutes.  Average  Cost,  6d.  to  8d.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


1628  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3919.— SLAW,  HOT. 

Ingredients. — i  tender  cabbage,  i  egg,  i  oz.  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of 
sour  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Remove  the  outer  leaves  and  heart  of  the  cabbage,  and 
shred  the  remainder  as  finely  as  possible.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan,  add  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water,  and  put  in  the  cabbage. 
Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  cook  gently  until  the  cabbage  is 
tender,  then  add  the  egg  previously  well-beaten.  Stir  and  cook  slowly 
for  3  or  4  minutes,  then  add  the  cream,  make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  rod.  to  is.  Sufficient  for  3 
or  4  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3920.— SQUASH,  BAKED. 

Ingredients. — i  pint  of  squash  puree,  i  pint  of  bread  or  cracker  crumbs, 
£  of  a  pint  of  milk,  i  oz.  of  butter,  pepper,  salt. 

Method. — Prepare  the  squash  as  directed  in  either  of  the  following 
recipes,  cook  until  tender,  and  pass  through  a  wire  sieve.  To  the  puree 
thus  obtained  add  the  breadcrumbs,  milk,  butter  warmed,  and  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Mix  all  well  together,  turn  the  prepara- 
tion into  a  greased  fireproof  dish,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
one  hour.  Serve  hot. 

Time. — About  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  to  i  id.  Sufficient  for  i  dish. 
Seasonable  at  any  time. 

392i.— SQUASH,  SUMMER. 

Ingredients. — Young,  fresh,  tender  squashes,  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Wash  and  dry  the  squashes,  do  not  pare  them,  but  cut  them 
into  quarters  and  remove  the  seeds.  Put  them  into  slightly  salted 
boiling  water,  and  cook  gently  for  about  20  minutes,  or  until  tender. 
Drain  well,  mash,  replace  in  the  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter  and  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  re-heat,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  ^an  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.  each.  Sufficient,  allow  2 
to  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 

Note. — The  term  squash  is  loosely  used,  especially  in  the  United  States, 
for  2  or  3  kinds  of  gourd,  including  the  pumpkin. 

3922.— SQUASH,  WINTER. 

Ingredients. — Squash,  butter,  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Split  the  squash  and  take  out  the  seeds,  put  it  into  slightly 
salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  until  tender.  Scrape  out  the  soft  part 
from  the  shell,  mash  it  or  pass  it  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  put  it  into 
a  stewpan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  a  good  pinch  of  sugar,  and  a  good 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.  Make  thoroughly  hot,  and  serve. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  3d.  each.  Sufficient,  allow  2 
to  3  or  4  persons.  Seasonable  all  the  year. 


TYPICAL   AMERICAN    AND   CANADIAN    DISHES    1629 
3923.— SUCCOTASH. 

Ingredients. — Lima  beans,  to  i  pint  of  beans  allow  i  quart  of  green 
corn,  butter,  cam,  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Method. — Cut  the  corn  from  the  cob  and  shell  the  beans,  put  them 
into  separate  vessels  of  slightly  salted  boiling  water,  cook  until  tender, 
and  drain  well.  Mix  them  together,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
lump  of  butter  and  a  little  cream,  add  a  good  pinch  of  sugar,  and  a 
seasoning  of  pepper,  and  shake  gently  over  the  lire  until  thoroughly 
hot.  In  winter,  when  the  vegetables  are  dry  and  hard,  soak  both 
corn  and  beans  for  at  least  12  hours,  then  proceed  as  directed  above. 
Canned  Lima  beans  and  canned  corn  are  also  used. 

Time. — About  £  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  is.  Sufficient  for  7  or  8  persons. 
Seasonable  from  July  to  September. 

3924.— SWEET  PICKLE. 

Ingredients. — 7  Ibs.  of  peaches,  pears  or  plums,  4  Ibs.  of  loaf  or  preserv- 
ing sugar,  i  pint  of  good  vinegar,  i  blade  of  mace,  £  an  inch  of  cinna- 
mon, 3  cloves. 

Method. — Remove  the  skins,  stones  or  cores  of  the  fruit,  and  place  it 
in  a  preserving  pan  with  alternate  layers  of  sugar.  Bring  very  slowly 
to  boiling  point,  then  add  the  vinegar  and  spices,  and  boil  for  5  minutes. 
Take  out  the  fruit  with  a  skimmer,  draining  it  well  from  the  syrup, 
and  place  it  on  dishes  to  cool.  Boil  the  syrup  gently  until  thick, 
removing  any  scum  as  it  rises,  and  pour  it  boiling  over  the  fruit,  which 
should  be  previously  packed  closely  in  glass  jars.  Cork  tightly  and 
store  in  a  cool  dry  place.  Examine  frequently  for  the  first  month, 
and  if  there  are  any  signs  of  fermentation,  put  the  jars,  uncovered,  in 
a  pan  of  water,  and  heat  until  they  are  scalding  hot. 

Time.— From  i  to  i£  hours.  Average  Cost,  45.  6d.  Sufficient  for  n  Ibs. 
of  pickle.  Seasonable  from  June  to  September. 

3925.__TERRAPIN  BROWN  STEW. 

Ingredients. — i  large  terrapin,  i  heaped  tablespoonful  of  flour,  i  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  £  of  a  pint  of  water  in  which  the  terrapin  was  boiled, 
|-  of  a  pint  of  sherry,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  |  of  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed 
cayenne,  ground  mace,  pepper  and  allspice,  £  of  a  lemon  thinly  sliced. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  of  the  terrapin  into  small  pieces,  put  it  into 
a  stewpan  with  the  water,  salt,  and  mixed  spices,  and  simmer  gently 
for  20  minutes.  Meanwhile  melt  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  cook  gently 
until  the  flour  acquires  a  nut-brown  colour,  then  pour  on  to  it  the 
liquor  in  which  the  terrapin  has  simmered.  Stir  until  boiling,  put  in 
the  terrapin  in  which  the  liquor  was  drained,  add  the  wine  and  sliced 
lemon.  Make  thoroughly  hot  and  serve. 

Time. — About  40  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  to  ios.,  according 
to  season  and  locality.  Sufficient  for  3  persons.  Seasonable. — Obtain- 
able all  the  year. 


1630  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

3926._ TERRAPIN,  TO  BOIL. 

Ingredients. — Terrapins  and  water. 

Method. — The  terrapins  are  either  killed  by  plunging  them  into 
boiling  water  like  lobsters,  or  after  cutting  off  the  head  the  body  is 
soaked  in  cold  water  for  about  \  an  hour,  and  afterwards  boiled  from 
\  an  hour  to  2  hours,  according  to  size  and  age.  When  sufficiently 
cooked,  the  legs  can  be  broken  with  a  slight  pressure  and  the  shell  will 
separate  easily.  The  liver,  gall,  bladder  and  sand  bag  must  be  taken 
away,  also  the  head  when  not  cut  off  before  cooking,  and  the  film 
surrounding  the  eggs.  What  remains  is  edible,  and  the  water  in  the 
shell  should  be  preserved. 

THE  TERRAPIN  is  a  fresh-water  or  tidal  tortoise,  of  the  family  Emydidae,  found  from  Rhode 
Island  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  They  vary  considerably  in  size,  quality  and  price  in  different  localities. 

3927.— TERRAPIN  WHITE  STEW. 

Ingredients. — i  large  terrapin,  \  a  pint  of  cream,  £  of  a  pint  of  sherry, 
£  of  a  pint  of  water,  the  yolks  of  3  hard-boiled  eggs,  i£  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  salt,  £  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  mixed  cayenne,  ground  mace,  pepper  and  allspice. 

Method. — Cut  the  meat  of  the  terrapin  into  small  pieces,  place  in  a 
stewpan,  add  the  water,  butter,  salt,  mixed  spices,  and  liquor  drained 
from  the  shell  and  simmer  gently  for  20  minutes.  Pass  the  yolks  of 
eggs  through  a  fine  sieve,  mix  with  them  the  cream,  add  the  lemon 
juice  and  sherry,  and  mix  the  whole  with  the  contents  of  the  stewpan. 
Make  thoroughly  hot  and  serve. 

Time. — To  reheat  the  terrapin,  about  \  an  hour.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d. 
to  ios.,  according  to  season  and  locality.  Sufficient  for  3  persons. 
Seasonable. — Obtainable  all  the  year. 

3928.— WAFFLES. 

Ingredients. — i  cupful  of  butter,  3  cupfuls  of  sugar,  3  eggs,  \  of  a 
teaspoonful  of  saleratus,  \  a  nutmeg  grated,  £  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
i  teaspoonful  of  milk,  flour. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter,  add  to  it  the  sugar,  nutmeg,  salt,  saleratus, 
previously  dissolved  in  the  milk,  and  the  eggs.  Beat  well,  adding 
gradually  as  much  flour  as  will  make  a  thick  batter.  Heat  the  waffle- 
iron,  rub  it  over  with  butter,  put  in  about  2  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
batter  and  cook  over  a  sharp  fire. 

Time. — To  cook,  from  8  to  10  minutes.  Average  Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  4d 
Sufficient  for  8  or  9  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3929.— WAFFLES.     (Another  Method.) 

Ingredients. — \  a  Ib.  of  flour,  \  a  Ib.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  3  eggs, 
i  pint  of  milk,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 


TYPICAL  AMERICAN  AND  CANADIAN  DISHES     1631 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  yol'vs  of 
eggs,  the  salt,  flour  and  milk,  a  little  alternately,  so  as  not  to  make 
the  mixture  either  too  stiff  or  too  moist.  When  well  mixed  stir  in  as 
lightly  as  possible  the  stiffly-whisked  whites  of  the  eggs.  Heat  and 
butter  the  waffle-iron  each  time  before  filling  it. 

Time. — To  cook,  about  6  or  7  minutes  to  bake  each  one.  Average 
Cost,  is.  2d.  to  is.  5d.  Sufficient  for  9  or  10  persons.  Seasonable  at  any 
time. 

3930.— WAFFLES  MADE  WITH  YEAST. 

Ingredients. — Flour,  i  pint  of  warm  milk,  i  tablespoonful  of  fresh 
yeast,  i  oz.  of  butter,  \  a  nutmeg  grated,  \  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  3  eggs. 

Method. — Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  yeast,  milk,  butter  melted, 
nutmeg,  salt,  and  as  much  flour  as  will  make  a  light  batter.  Cover, 
and  let  it  remain  in  a  warm  place  from  2\  to  3  hours.  Cook  as  directed 
in  recipe  No.  3438. 

Time. — Altogether,  about  4  hours.  Average  Cost,  9d.  Sufficient  for 
7  or  8  persons.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 

3931.— WASHINGTON  PIE. 

Ingredients. —  i  Ib.  of  flour,  £  of  a  Ib.  of  castor  sugar,  \  a  Ib.  of  butter, 
6  eggs,  i  gill  of  cream,  the  finely-grated  rind  of  \  a  lemon,  £  a  teaspoonful 
of  saleratus,  fruit  jelly  or  apricot  marmalade. 

Method. — Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  white  and  creamy, 
then  add  the  lemon-rind  and  the  eggs  2  at  a  time,  beating  well  between 
each  addition.  Mix  the  saleratus  with  the  cream,  stir  it  into  the 
mixture,  and  add  the  flour  as  lightly  as  possible.  Turn  into  4  round 
shallow  baking-tins,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Allow  the  cakes 
to  get  cold,  then  split  them  and  put  a  thick  layer  of  fruit  jelly,  or  apricot 
marmalade,  which  has  been  stiffened  by  a  little  gelatine,  between  the 
cakes.  Cut  into  sections,  and  serve  as  a  cold  sweet. 

Time. — To  bake,  about  20  minutes.  Average  Cost,  2s.  6d.  Sufficient 
for  4  cakes.  Seasonable  at  any  time. 


TRUSSING   POULTRY  AND 

GAME 


CHAPTER    LX 

TRUSSING  may  be  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  important  arts  in  con- 
nexion with  cookery.  In  London  and  other  large  towns  where  so 
much,  if  not  all,  the  poultry  and  game  is  sent  out  ready  prepared  for 
cooking,  many  cooks  do  not  make  it  a  study  ;  but  it  ought,  neverthe- 
less, to  be  a  part  of  the  education  of  each  one.  Realizing  the  import- 
ance of  this  branch  of  the  cook's  art,  and  knowing  how  difficult  it  is 
to  learn  from  written  instructions,  we  have  prepared  a  series  of  illus- 
trations to  practically  show  the  various  stages  in  the  preparation  of 
game  and  poultry  for  different  modes  of  cooking.  To  obtain  these 
and  to  ensure  their  being  reliable  guides  for  the  uninitiated,  we  secured 
the  services  of  a  very  experienced  trusser.  The  latter,  taking  each 
bird  or  animal  in  turn,  demonstrated  the  manner  of  drawing,  trussing, 
etc.,  at  each  stage  of  which  a  photograph  was  taken,  so  that  by 
studying  these  the  amateur  will  be  able  to  acquire  the  proper  method. 
Skewers  are  not  now  used  for  trussing  fowls  and  similar  small 
birds,  which  are  always  trussed  with  a  needle  and  twine.  This  mode 
not  only  facilitates  the  carving,  but  avoids  serving  a  dish  rendered 
unsightly  by  skewers  or  skewer  holes.  Trussing  needles,  made 
of  iron,  are  obtainable  from  any  ironmonger.  They  are  very  similar 
to  packing  needles — strong  and  straight,  about  9  inches  long. 

3932.— TO  PLUCK  A  BIRD. 

Hold  the  bird  in  the  left  hand,  and  commence  to  pull  off  the  feathers 
from  under  the  wing.  Having  plucked  one  side,  take  the  other  wing 
and  proceed  in  the  same  manner  until  all  the  feathers  are  removed. 

Poultry  feeders  usually  pluck  birds  immediately  after  killing,  because 
the  feathers  are  more  easily  withdrawn  before  the  flesh  stiffens.  Another 
way  is  to  plunge  the  bird  into  hot,  but  not  boiling,  water  for  about 
one  minute,  and  immediately  pull  out  the  feathers.  But  this  is  a 
rather  risky  method,  for  if  the  bird  be  left  too  long  in  the  water,  the 
skin  becomes  tender,  apt  to  be  easily  torn,  and  the  appearance  is  thus 
spoiled. 

1632 


TRUSSING  No.  i 


Section  of  fowl  cut  iu  half :   (i)  with  internal  organs ;  (2)  \\hcu  drawn. 


TRUSSING  No.  2:  TO  DRAW  A  FOWL* 


See  directions  on  page  1633. 


no 


TRUSSING  POULTRY  AND  GAME  1633 

3933-— TO  SINGE  POULTRY. 

Hold  the  bird  by  the  neck  with  the  left  hand,  and  with  the  right 
hand  singe  off  the  down  with  a  lighted  paper,  moving  it  quickly  so  as 
not  to  scorch  the  bird  ;  those  parts  that  will  be  hidden  after  the  bird 
is  trussed  must  be  most  carefully  gone  over,  but  it  is  usual  to  again 
singe  after  trussing.  In  large  kitchens  there  is  sometimes  a  gas-tube, 
which  is  very  convenient  for  singeing  poultry,  and  avoids  to  some 
extent  any  chance  of  burning  or  scorching  during  the  operation  ; 
but  a  lighted  paper  carefully  used  is  all  that  is  actually  necessary. 

It  is  useless  to  expect  singeing  to  take  away  the  feathers  that  have 
been  left  in  through  careless  plucking  ;  if  any  should  appear,  they 
must  be  pulled  out,  not  singed  off,  otherwise  they  will  impart  a  dis- 
agreeable odour  of  burnt  feathers  to  the  bird. 

3934._TO  BONE  POULTRY  AND  GAME. 

Birds  are  invariably  plucked  and  singed  before  boning,  but  not 
drawn.  The  crop,  however,  should  be  removed,  the  wings  and  legs 
cut  off  at  the  first  joint,  and  the  tendons  of  the  legs  carefully  drawn 
at  the  same  time.  To  bone  the  bird,  use  a  small  sharp  knife,  and  first 
remove  the  merry-thought  at  the  neck — a  very  simple  matter.  This 
done,  cut  the  skin  down  the  centre  of  the  back  and  raise  the  flesh 
carefully  on  cither  side,  sever  the  wing  joints,  and  continue  to  detach 
the  flesh,  keeping  the  blade  of  the  knife  close  to  the  bone.  When  the 
legs  are  reached,  dislocate  the  joints,  cut  the  connecting  tendons,  but 
both  wings  and  legs  intact  until  the  breast  and  back  bones  have 
been  removed,  together  with  the  viscera.  Turn  the  body  completely 
inside  out  ;  take  the  thigh  bones  of  one  of  the  legs  in  the  left  hand  and 
strip  the  flesh  downwards.  Repeat  this  until  all  the  small  bones  are 
removed.  The  bird  may  then  be  turned  right  side  out  again,  when  it 
will  be  found  completely  boned  and  should  be  quite  whole. 

Both  large  and  small  birds  may  be  boned  in  this  way.  They  are 
then  stuffed,  re-shaped  and  trussed,  or  rolled  into  galantines. 

3935-— TO  DRAW  POULTRY.      (Trussing  Illustration 
Nos.  i  and  2.) 

In  order  to  draw  a  bird  properly,  it  is  well  to  know  where  to  find 

the  different  parts  of  the  inside.     Trussing  Illustration  No.  i,  Fig.  i, 

shows  a  fowl  cut  in   half.     The  different  organs  can  be  seen  in  the 

positions  they  occupy.    Fig.  2  shows  the  inside  of  the  bird  when  drawn. 

the  bird  back  downwards  upon  the  table,  and  cut  off  the  ends 

of  the  pinions.      Then  turn  the  bird  breast  downwards,  and  cut  a  long 

slit  in  the  back  of  the  neck,  in  the  manner  shown  in  Trussing  Illustra- 

\o.  2,  Fig.  i  ;   pass  the  knife  under  the  skin,  cut  off  the  neck  at 

its  junction  with  the  body,  taking  care  not  to  cut  through  the  under 

3  G 


1634  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

skin  of  the  neck  in  this  motion.  Then  cut  through  the  skin  of  the 
back  of  the  neck  at  the  place  where  the  first  incision  was  made  and 
through  the  underneath  skin  about  three  inches  from  the  breast, 
leaving  the  two  flaps  of  neck  skin  to  fold  over  the  jagged  opening  (see 
Figs.  2  and  3),  and  draw  out  the  neck.  Then  take  out  the  crop, 
and  well  loosen  the  entrails  by  placing  the  forefinger  inside  the 
body,  and  working  it  round  from  left  to  right  (see  Fig.  4).  Put  the 
fowl  on  the  table  tail  upwards  and  make  a  deep  cut  straight  across 
the  body  between  the  tail  and  the  vent.  The  vent  can  then  be  easily 
cut  out,  and  the  opening  will  be  found  sufficiently  large  to  enable  the 
fingers  to  be  put  inside  the  bird  to  take  hold  of  the  gizzard,  etc.  (see 
Fig.  5),  and  if  the  loosening  at  the  other  end  has  been  properly  per- 
formed, the  whole  of  the  inside  of  the  fowl  can  be  easily  drawn  away 
in  one  mass.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  draw  away  the  fat  on  giz- 
zard. This  can  be  felt  with  the  fingers  and  may  be  easily  left  inside 
the  bird. 

Be  very  careful  not  to  break  the  gall-bladder,  for  this  accident  may 
ruin  the  bird  by  imparting  a  very  bitter  taste  to  the  flesh.  Now 
wipe  out  the  inside  with  a  clean  cloth,  but  do  not  wash  the  bird, 
unless  any  part  of  the  inside  has  been  broken  in  drawing  ;  dip  the  legs 
of  the  bird  in  boiling  water,  scrape  them,  and  cut  off  the  claws. 

3936.— TO    TRUSS    A    FOWL    FOR    ROASTING. 

(Trussing  Illustration  No.  3.) 

Place  the  fowl  upon  the  table  as  shown  in  illustration,  and  pass  the 
needle  and  string  through  the  centre  of  the  fowl,  just  above  the  thigh- 
bone, exactly  in  the  centre  of  the  two  joints  (see  Fig.  i),  leaving  the 
end  of  the  string  protruding  from  the  place  where  the  needle  entered 
the  bird.  Turn  the  fowl  over  on  to  its  breast,  and  carrying  the  twine 
on,  pass  it  in  a  slanting  direction  between  the  two  centre  bones  of  the 
wing,  catching  the  underneath  part  of  the  pinion  (see  Fig.  2),  and  then 
over  the  bird  through  the  pinion  and  then  the  wing  of  the  other  side, 
and  the  string  will  come  out  near  the  point  where  it  first  entered  the 
fowl  ;  then  tie  the  two  ends  together,  but  not  too  tightly  or  the  bird 
will  not  lie  flat  on  the  dish  (Fig.  3).  Next  take  the  fowl  in  the  left 
hand,  breast  downwards,  and  pass  the  needle  and  twine  through  the 
back,  close  to  the  end  of  the  thigh-bones  (Fig.  4)  ;  put  the  legs  into 
position  shown,  turn  the  fowl  on  its  back,  and  carry  the  string  over 
the  leg  and  then  through  the  breast,  catching  up  a  small  portion  of 
the  bone  as  the  needle  passes  through.  Take  the  string  on  over  the 
other  leg  and  tie  the  ends  together,  and  the  bird  will  be  ready  for 
roasting  (see  Fig.  5). 

Now  again  singe  the  bird,  going  over  it  very  carefully,  so  that  no 
feathers  remain  ;  then,  after  cleaning  and  washing  the  gizzard  and 
liver,  put  one  in  each  of  the  pinions. 


TRUSSING  POULTRY  AND  GAME  1635 

3937.__TO  TRUSS  A  FOWL  FOR  BOILING.     (Truss- 
ing Illustration  No.  4.) 

It  is  generally  found  more  difficult  for  a  beginner  to  truss  a  fowl  for 
boiling  than  for  roasting,  for  in  loosening  the  skin  and  drawing  it  over 
the  bone  it  is  very  easy  to  tear  it. 

Loosen  the  skin  of  the  leg  by  placing  the  two  first  fingers  of  the 
hand  inside  the  body,  and  working  round  the  leg  as  shown  (Fig.  i). 
Make  a  cut  in  the  drumstick  of  the  fowl,  about  half  an  inch  from  the 
hock  (Fig.  2),  to  prevent  the  bone  from  breaking  under  the  next  opera- 
tion. Turn  the  shank  inward  on  to  the  back  of  the  fowl  (Fig.  3),  and 
draw  the  skin  of  the  leg  over  the  hock,  tucking  the  joint  into  the  body 
(as  in  Fig.  4).  Next  cut  off  the  shank  about  half  an  inch  above  tlu 
foot,  i.e.,  cutting  oft  all  the  leg  and  foot  that  shows  in  Fig.  4. 
with  needle  and  string  as  for  roasted  fowl  (see  Fig.  5). 


3938.— TO    TRUSS    A    TURKEY.      (Trussing  Illustra- 
tion No.  5.) 

Turk  •    !     :.      •  1C   same   mamv 

fowls.  l>u*  russing  draw  the  sinews.     To  do  tin-,  luvak  the  le,^ 

bones  close  to  the  feet,  run  them  on  a  hook  placed  in  tin-  \\all  (abors 
you,  soth,*  A.  11  as  strength  can  b«  t  to  bear),  and 

»ut  the  Bfi  shown  in  Fig.   \.     This  is  sometimes   rather  a 

hard  task-,  but  it  n  lone  or  the  legs  will  be  uneatable. 

cut  oil  the  neck  close  to  the  back  as  directed  in  Recipe  No.  30.^. 
ing  enough  skin  to  turn  over  it.  and  loosen   the  liver  and  the  i 
tiie  inside  at  the  throat  end.     Cut  off  the  vent,  takeout  the  i;ut  and 
draw  the  bird  with  a  hook  sold  for  this  purpose.     Take  great  care  not 
to  break  the  gut   joining   the   gizzard,   for  fear  of   grit,   or   the  gall 
bladder,  which,  if  broken,  would  make  the  flesh  bitt 

i  dry  the  inside  thoroughly.  Cut  the  breastbone  through  at 
each  side  close  to  the  back,  beat  it  flat  with  a  wooden  rolling-pin,  then 
place  the  pinions  as  shown  in  illustration,  and  skev  .  2  and  3). 

Press  the  legs  close  to  the  body  and  skewer  at  first  and  second  joints, 
and  the  turkey  will  now  be  ready  for  stuffing. 

flavin;:  filled  the  bird  with  the  forcemeat  (the  fuller  the  better  and 
:  it  will  look),  skewer  over  the  flap  of  skin,  also  that  at  the  neck. 

Turn  the  bii  most  and  put  a  string  across  and  across 

as  shown,  except  in  the  case  of  a  very  small  turkey,  when  it  will  not 
be  required. 

,ith  a  fowl,  a  boned  turkey  has  sometimes  the  legs  put  inside, 
is  needed  ;  and  the  aim  is  not  to  preserve  its  form 
bir  to  make  u  prescnl  a  broad  smoo- 


1636  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

3939._TO  TRUSS  A  GOOSE  OR  DUCK.       (Trussing 
Illustration  No.  5,  Fig.  5.) 

Geese  and  ducks  are  prepared,  drawn  and  trussed  in  the  same  manner 
as  fowls  and  turkeys,  except  that  the  wings  or  pinions  are  cut  off  at 
the  first  joint.  The  feet  of  a  goose  are  nearly  always  removed,  but 
those  of  a  duck  are  just  as  frequently  left  on,  the  tips  of  the  toes  alone 
being  cut  off. 

Having  well  plucked  and  singed  the  bird,  cut  off  the  feet  at  the 
joint,  the  pinions  at  the  first  joint,  and  the  neck  close  to  the  back,  as 
directed  for  fowls,  leaving  enough  skin  to  turn  over  the  back.  Next 
loosen  the  inside  at  the  throat  end.  Cut  the  bird  open  between  the 
vent  and  the  rump  and  draw  ;  then  wipe  out  the  bird  and  very  carefully 
flatten  the  breastbone  with  a  rolling-pin,  taking  care  not  to  break  the 
bone  into  splinters.  Put  a  skewer  through  the  under  part  of  one  wing 
and  bring  it  through  the  other,  as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  Skewer  the  legs 
by  passing  the  skewer  through  the  first  joint  and  carrying  it  through 
the  body  so  as  to  secure  the  other.  Always  remove  the  merry-thought 
from  a  duck  or  a  choose. 


394o._ TO  TRUSS  GROUSE. 

When  plucking  leave  the  breast  feather  for  removal  afterwards,  in 
order  to  prevent  the  skin  being  broken  in  trussing. 

First,  cut  off  the  head,  leaving  enough  skin  to  skewer  back,  loosen 
the  inside  at  neck  and  squeeze  out  and  wipe  the  inside  of  the  bird. 

Secondly,  bring  the  legs  close  to  the  breast,  between  it  and  the  side 
bones,  and  pass  a  needle  through  the  pinions  and  the  thick  part  of  the 
thighs,  tie  round,  then  take  off  the  breast  feathers  with  the  aid  of  a 
knife,  thus  avoiding  the  breaking  of  the  skin. 

Partridges  and  pheasants  are  trussed  in  the  same  manner,  but  the 
latter  are  large  enough  for  the  passage  of  the  hand  and  can  be  drawn 
in  the  same  way  as  a  fowl. 

3941.— TO  TRUSS  A  PIGEON.     (Trussing  Illustration 
No.  3,  Figs.  6  and  7.) 

First  pluck  and  draw  the  bird,  wash  it  very  thoroughly  and  wipe 
perfectly  dry.  Then  cut  off  the  neck  and  head,  and  the  toes  at  the 
first  joint.  Truss  for  roasting  by  crossing  the  legs  and  running  a 
trussing  needle  and  twine  through  both  pinions  and  legs  (Fig.  7). 

For  stewing,  twist  the  legs  up  on  each  side  and  fasten  with  a  truss- 
ing needle  and  twine  (Fig.  6). 

Pigeons  are  better  if  drawn  directly  they  are  killed.  They  are  birds 
that  do  not  improve  by  keeping, 


TRUSSING  No.  3:  FOWL  FOR  ROASTING. 


--     ^f- 


\/ 


8 


See  directions  on  page  1634. 


ii  i 


TRUSSING  No.  4:  FOWL  FOR  BOILING. 


See  directions  on  page  1635. 


TRUSSING  POULTRY  AND  GAME  1637 

3942.— TO  TRUSS  A  SNIPE. 

First  pluck  the  birds,  and  wipe  them  outside  with  a  damp  cloth, 
but  do  not  draw  them.  Twist  the  legs,  thrust  them  close  to  the  body  ; 
skin  the  neck  and  head,  and  bring  the  beak  round  under  the  wing. 
The  birds  should  then  be  placed  on  toast. 

3943<_TO       TRUSS       PLOVERS,      QUAILS,      AND 
WOODCOCKS. 

These  are  dressed  in  the  same  way  as  snipe. 

3944._TO   SKIN  AND   TRUSS   A   HARE.     (Trussing 
Illustration  No.  5,  Figs.  6  and  7.) 

Cut  off  the  fore  and  hind  legs  at  the  first  joint,  make  a  long  slit  in 
the  skin  underneath  the  body,  detach  it  from  the  flesh,  and  draw  it 
over  the  hind  legs,  leaving  the  tail  on.  The  next  step  is  to  draw  the 
skin  over  the  back  and  slip  out  the  fore  legs,  easing  it  with  a  knife,  if 
necessary,  over  the  neck  and  head,  and  being  very  careful  not  to  injure 
the  ears,  which  are  left  on.  In  skinning  this  is  the  most  delicate  part, 
and  one  that  is  always  found  difficult  by  the  amateur,  but  the  appear- 
ance of  a  roast  hare  is  spoilt  if  the  ears  are  torn  or  otherwise  injured. 

To  hang  the  hare  on  a  hook  is  a  most  convenient  way  of  accom- 
plishing the  skinning,  as  both  hands  are  thus  free  and  the  skin  can  be 
thus  far  more  carefully  removed  and  with  far  greater  ease  than  if  the 
animal  be  laid  upon  a  board. 

Slit  the  body  in  the  same  direction  as  the  skin  was  cut,  remove  all  the 
viscera  except  the  kidneys,  and  wipe  the  inside  with  a  clean  damp 
cloth.  Next  cut  the  sinews  beneath  the  hind  legs  and  press  them  to- 
wards the  head,  and  bring  the  fore  legs  backwards  to  the  hind  ones. 

When  the  legs  are  arranged  in  the  manner  indicated,  a  skewer  can 
be  passed  through  the  two  legs  on  one  side,  through  the  body  and  the 
two  legs  on  the  other  side,  the  chief  part  of  the  trussing  being  thus 
effected  by  means  of  one  skewer. 

Press  back  the  head  (Fig.  6),  pass  a  skewer  through  the  top  of  the 
shoulder,  the  back  of  the  neck,  and  out  through  the  top  of  the  opposite 
shoulder. 

3945.— TO   TRUSS  A   RABBIT   FOR   ROASTING   OR 
BOILING. 

Empty,  skin  and  wash  the  rabbit  thoroughly,  wipe  it  dry,  and  take 
out  the  eyes. 

Then  cut  off  the  fore  joints  of  the  shoulders  and  legs,  and,  bringing 
them  close  to  the  body,  fasten  with  needle  and  twine,  skewer  firmly. 

Thirdly,  raise  the  head  and  skewer  it  back  between  the  shoulders. 

Put  stuffing  in  (if  liked)  when  for  roasting,  and  sew  up. 


HERBS,    CONDIMENTS, 
AND    AUXILIARIES 


CHAPTER    LXI 

:•,  life  i:nol  h  9/i.r.m  ,i«ioj  .te'nt  •y/ii  t»>  j-.yyt  bnifi  !•;;.•:  •::• 
THE  first  pages  of  the  present  chapter  deal  principally  with  the  various 
seasonings  and  flavourings  which  form  an  important  part  of  every 
culinary  preparation,  followed  by  a  brief  description  of  the  elementary 
processes  which  enter  largely  into  every-day  cookery.  The  success 
of  many  dishes  depends  more  on  the  condiments  and  auxiliaries  used 
in  compounding  them  than  on  the  material  forming  the  base;  hence  the 
necessity  of  some  slight  knowledge  of  the  qualities  of  the  respective 
seasonings  and  flavourings,  and  the  exercise  of  a  certain  amount  of  care 
in  preparing  the  auxiliaries. 


Herbs 


Aromatic  Herbs  and  Plants. — A  number  of  these  are  used  in  a  dry 
state,  but  when  freshly  gathered  a  better  flavour  is  added  to  the  pre- 
paration of  which  they  form  a  part. 

Bay-leaves  (Fr. — Feuilles  de  laurier). — The  leaves  of  the  common 
laurel,  Prunus  laurocerasus ,  are  employed  for  culinary  purposes  to 
give  a  kernel-like  flavour  to  sauces,  stocks,  mirepoix,  custards,  pud- 
dings, etc.  They  may  be  dried  and  their  flavour  preserved  for  a  great 
length  of  time  if  kept  in  an  air-tight  tin. 

Basil  (Fr. — Basilic). — The  flavour  of  this  herb  greatly  resembles  that 
of  the  bay-leaf.  It  finds  great  favour  with  French  cooks,  but  it  is  not 
much  used  in  England  except  as  a  flavouring  for  fish  soups  and  fish 
sauces.  It  is  in  perfection  about  August,  when  it  should  be  dried 
and  preserved  in  air-tight  bottles  or  tins  for  winter  use.  Like  many 
other  herbs,  it  may  be  obtained  ready-prepared. 

Bouquet  Garni. — The  little  bunch  or  fagot  of  herbs  to  which  this  name 
is  applied  usually  consists  of  two  or  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  a  sprig  of 
thyme,  and  a  bayleaf,  with  the  addition  of  marjoram,  celery  leaves, 
basil,  or  other  herbs  may,  if  liked,  be  added, 

1638 


HERBS,  CONDIMENTS,  AND  AUXILIARIES       1639 

Burnet. — The  use  of  this  perennial  plant  has  gone  somewhat  out  of 
fashion.  In  former  times  it  constituted  one  of  the  principal  ingredients 
of  claret  cup,  its  leaves,  when  slightly  bruised,  smelling  like  cucumber. 
Its  modern  use  is  confined  to  salads. 

Capsicums. — Several  varieties  of  this  plant  are  cultivated  in  the  East 
and  West  Indies  and  in  America.  The  red  chilli,  which  invariably 
forms  part  of  mixed  pickles,  is  the  pod  of  the  capsicum,  and  chilli 
vinegar  is  made  by  infusing  capsicum  pods  in  vinegar  until  some  of  their 
pungency  and  strength  is  extracted.  From  the  same  source  comes 
cayenne  pepper,  obtained  from  the  pods  and  the  seeds,  which  are  well 
dried  and  pounded  until  they  are  reduced  to  a  fine  powder.  Capsi- 
cums owe  their  stimulating  power  to  an  active  principle  called  capscin, 
and  when  used  in  moderation  produce  no  injurious  effects. 

Carrots  and  Turnips. — The  small  pale-coloured  carrot  that  grows  wild 
in  Kngland  is  not  the  original  of  the  cultivated  variety,  which  is  certainly 
one  of  the  most  valuable  and  useful  vegetables  we  possess.  The  garden 
carrot  in  general  use  is  a  genus  of  the  umbelliferae,  and  was  intro- 
duced into  England  in  a  cultivated  state  during  the  reign  of  Elizabeth. 
Turnips  also  grow  wild  in  England,  but  naturalists  have  asserted  that 
thr>  wild  turnip  is  not  the  progenitor  of  the  valuable  culinary  esculent 
of  the  present  day.  In  this  cultivated  state  they  are  generally  sup- 
to  have  been  originally  introduced  from  Hanover,  in  the  reign 
•  >rge  I.  The  manifold  purposes  for  which  both  these  vegetables 
are  employed  are  too  well  known  to  need  comment.  In  adding  them 
to  a  soup,  sauce  or  ragout,  the  rule  of  using  less  turnip  than  carrot 
should  always  be  observed.  Both  should  be  used  sparingly,  other- 
wise their  flavour  overpowers  that  of  the  materials  with  which  they 
are  cooked. 

Chervil  ( Vr.—Cerfeuil ). — This  umbelliferous  plant  is  used  as  a  flavouring 
agent  in  entrees,  sauces,  and  soups,  its  peculiar  flavour  being  greatly 
appreciated  by  many.  But  it  is  still  more  usefully  employed  for 
decorative  purposes,  its  small,  pretty,  delicately  tinted  leaves  being 
invaluable  as  a  means  of  introducing  a  green  garniture  to  chaud- 
froids,  savouries,  salads,  etc.  In  Scotland  and  in  the  north  of 
England  this  plant  is  commonly  called  Myrrh. 

Chives  (Fr. — Ciboulette). — The  root  of  this  plant  consists  of  small,  flat, 
clustering  bulbs.  Like  other  small  varieties  of  the  onion  tribe,  it  has 
a  very  powerful  flavour,  and  consequently  must  be  sparingly  ; 

Garlic  (Fr. — Ail). — The  genus  Allium  includes  tho  --hive,  garlic,  leek, 
onion  and  shallot.  Of  ;  lie  possesses  the  most  powerful  aroma 

ami  flavour.      In   Spain,    Italy,   and   other    parts    of    the    Continent, 
garlic  is  highly  esteemed,  but  unless  very  sparingly  used  the  flavour 
to  the    Kn-lish  palatr.     The  root  consists  of  several 
l)ull>s  railed  cloven  :icient  flavour  may  be  added   to  anv 

•  •I  containing  it  with  the  end  of 
half  of  or.f  of   th<- 


1640  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Leeks  (Fr. — Poireaux). — This  plant,  the  A  Ilium  porrum,  is  largely 
employed  as  a  flavouring  agent  in  culinary  preparations.  In  Wales 
it  is  highly  esteemed,  but,  notwithstanding  its  mild  delicate  flavour, 
it  is  little  used  as  a  vegetable  in  England. 

Marjoram  (Fr. — Marjolaine). — There  are  four  kinds  of  marjoram, 
but  the  sweet  or  knotted  variety,  known  to  naturalists  as  Origanum 
Marjorama,  is  the  only  one  used  for  culinary  purposes.  This  well- 
known  herb  is  a  native  of  Portugal,  and  was  introduced  into  this 
country  in  the  sixteenth  century.  Sparingly  used,  it  imparts  an 
agreeable .  flavour  to  many  sauces,  stews,  and  other  preparations,  of 
which  onion  forms  a  part.  The  herb  should  be  gathered  in  July, 
well-dried,  finely-powdered,  and  bottled  for  winter  use. 

Mint  (Fr. — Menthe). — This  aromatic  plant  belongs  to  the  natural  order 
Labiatae.  The  Mentha  vividis,  the  variety  cultivated  in  our  kitchen  gar- 
dens, has  a  more  agreeable  flavour  than  its  congeners,  and  it  is  the  one 
generally  used  in  cookery.  Mint  possesses  the  property  of  correcting  fla- 
tulence, hence  the  custom  of  using  it  in  pea-soup  and  with  new  potatoes. 

Onions  (Fr. — Oignans). — This  bulb,  the  A  Hum  cepa,  which  is  the  most 
common,  but,  at  the  same  time,  the  most  popular  of  this  class  of  vege- 
table, differs  widely  as  regards  size  and  flavour.  The  smaller  varieties  are 
the  more  powerful,  while  the  larger  species,  like  the  Spanish,  are  mild 
and  sweet.  A  mild  flavour  of  onion  is  generally  liked,  but  the  objection 
to  its  use  is  the  odour  left  on  the  palate.  This  may  be  obviated  in  some 
measure  by  parboiling  them  before  adding  them  to  any  preparation, 
the  objectionable  matter  being  more  effectually  removed  by  changing 
the  water  two  or  three  times  during  the  process. 

Parsley  (Fr. — Persil). — This  herb  is  said  to  be  a  native  of  Sardinia, 
but  is  largely  cultivated  in  every  country  in  Europe.  Parsley  pos- 
sesses the  peculiar  property  of  absorbing  the  strength  of  other 
flavouring  ingredients  ;  hence  the  necessity  of  using  it  with  discre- 
tion. In  consequence  of  being  generally  regarded  as  exceedingly 
simple  and  harmless  in  character,  this  herb  is  frequently  employed  in 
altogether  disproportionate  quantities,  thereby  overpowering  the 
flavour  of  other  substances  with  which  it  is  mixed.  Parsley  intended 
for  winter  use  should  be  gathered  before  it  loses  its  tender  shade  of 
green.  It  is  first  blanched  in  boiling  water  for  i  minute,  then  put 
into  a  hot  oven,  and  when  dry  enough  to  be  easily  reduced  to  a  fine 
powder  it  is  rubbed  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  put  into  well-corked 
bottles  or  air-tight  tins. 

Sage  (Fr. — Sauge). — This  well-known  plant  belongs  to  the  genus 
Salvia,  a  branch  of  the  mint  family.  It  was  originally  a  native  of  the 
South  of  Europ2,  but  its  cultivation  in  England  dates  from  an  early 
age.  There  are  several  varieties,  known  as  green,  red,  small  leaved, 
and  the  broad- leaved  balsamic.  Both  green  and  red  sage  are  em- 
ployed for  cookery  purposes,  especially  in  stuffings,  of  which  onions 
form  the  principal  part,  but  other  kinds  are  used  for  medicinal  purposes. 


TRUSSING  No.  5 :  POULTRY,  GOOSE,  AND  HARE. 


See  directions  on  pages  1635,  1636,  and  1637. 


00 

£ 

O 
oo 

tf 


x 

HH 

00 


S 

PQ 

s 


114 


HERBS,  CONDIMENTS,  AND  AUXILIARIES       1641 

Shallot  or  Eschalot  (Fr. — Echalote}. — This  bulbous  root  is  a  native  of 
Palestine,  and  was  introduced  into  England  by  the  Crusaders.  It 
derives  its  botanical  name,  A  Ilium  Ascalonicum,  from  Ascalon,  in 
the  vicinity  of  which  place  it  was  found  growing  wild.  The  shallot 
has  a  bulbous  root,  made  up  of  a  number  of  smaller  bulbs,  called 
cloves.  It  is  more  pungent  than  garlic,  but  its  flavour  is  more 
delicate,  and  more  palatable  to  those  unaccustomed  to  the  use  of 
garlic.  The  shallot  is  more  pronounced  in  taste  than  the  onion,  but 
does  not  leave  so  strong  an  odour  on  the  palate,  and  for  this  reason 
it  is  often  employed  instead  of  the  onion  for  flavouring  culinary 
preparations,  sauces  and  vinegars,  and  more  especially  for  salads 
eaten  in  a  raw  state.  Shallots  are  in  best  condition  in  July,  August, 
and  September,  but  may  be  kept  for  a  great  length  of  time  if  hung  in 
nets  in  a  cool  dry  place. 

Tarragon  (Fr. — £stragon}. — This  perennial  plant,  known  to  botanists 
as  Artemisia  Dracunculus,  is  believed  to  be  a  native  of  Siberia.  Its 
leaves  possess  a  highly  aromatic  flavour,  and  are  largely  used  for  de- 
corative purposes,  the  character  and  form  of  the  leaf  being  specially 
suited  to  the  small  devices  employed  for  garnishing  chaudfroids, 
savouries,  salads,  etc.  From  it  also  is  made  the  vinegar  known  as 
tarragon  vinegar,  which  is  employed  by  the  French  in  making  their 
mustard,  and  by  the  English  in  mixing  mayonnaise  and  other  salad 
dressings. 

Thyme  and  Lemon  Thyme  (Fr. — TAym). — Both  these  species  belong 
to  the  natural  order  Labiatae,  or  mint  tribe.  The  leaves  of  the  Thymus 
vulgaris  possess  a  highly  aromatic  flavour,  and  should  be  sparingly 
used.  Lemon  thyme,  or  Thymus  citriodorus,  is  a  trailing  evergreen  of 
much  smaller  growth  than  the  ordinary  common  kind,  and  is  remark- 
able for  its  smell,  which  closely  resembles  that  of  the  rind  of  a  lemon, 
hence  its  distinctive  name. 

Condiments 

Condiments  serve  a  useful  purpose  in  dietetics,  not  only  in  enhancing 
the  flavour  of  substances  to  which  they  are  added,  but  also  in  inducing 
greater  activity  in  digestive  processes.  A  little  additional  seasoning  of 
salt  and  pepper  may  be  necessary,  just  before  serving,  to  render  a  dish 
more  palatable,  but  all  condiments  used  for  seasoning  or  flavouring 
should  be  added  either  before  the  dish  is  cooked  or  during  the  process 
of  cooking,  otherwise  their  full  flavour  cannot  be  imparted  to  the 
materials  with  which  they  are  mixed. 

Allspice  (Fr. — Piment}. — This  is  the  popular  name  given  to  pimento, 
or  Jamaica  pepper,  known  to  botanists  as  Eugenia  pimenta,  and  belong- 
ing to  the  natural  order  Myrtaceae,  or  myrtle.  It  is  the  berry  of  a  fine 
tree  in  the  West  Indies  and  South  America,  which  attains  a  height  of 


1642  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

trom  1 5  to  20  feet.  The  berries  are  not  allowed  to  ripen,  but  are  gathered 
green,  dried  in  the  sun,  and  then  become  black.  The  berries  combine 
the  flavour  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  and  nutmeg,  hence  the  name. 

Angelica  (Fr. — -Angelique). — Although  the  seeds  of  this  plant  are 
largely  used  in  the  preparation  of  certain  liqueurs,  it  is  chiefly  in 
its  candied  form  that  this  aromatic  herb  or  plant  is  known  to  us.  In 
the  northern  parts  of  Europe  the  leaf  stalks  are  peeled  and  eaten 
raw  as  a  great  delicacy.  The  root,  as  well  as  the  leaves  and  seeds, 
have  been  employed  for  medicinal  purposes.  From  its  supposed 
properties  as  a  specific  against  poison  and  witchcraft,  it  was  formerly 
called  the  "  angelic  "  plant. 

Cayenne  (Fr. — Poivre  de  Guinee}. — This  is  the  acrid  and  stimulating 
spice  with  which  we  are  acquainted.  It  is  a  powder  prepared  from 
several  varieties  of  the  Capsicum,  annual  East  India  plants,  of  which 
there  are  three  so  far  naturalized  in  this  country  as  to  be  able  to  grow 
in  the  open  air  ;  these  are  extremely  pungent  to  the  taste,  and  in  the 
green  state  are  used  by  us  as  a  pickle.  When  ripe,  they  are  ground 
into  cayenne  pepper,  and  sold  as  a  condiment.  The  best  cayenne, 
however,  is  made  in  the  West  Indies  from  the  Bird  pepper,  so  named 
because  of  the  partiality  of  hens  and  turkeys  to  the  berry.  It  is  im- 
ported ready  for  use.  Of  the  Capsicum  species  of  plants  there  are  five  ; 
but  the  principal  are  :  (i)  Capsicum  annum,  the  common  long-podded 
Capsicum,  cultivated  in  our  gardens,  of  which  there  are  two  varieties, 
one  with  red,  and  another  with  yellow  fruit.  (2)  Capsicum  baccatum, 
or  Bird  pepper,  which  rises  with  a  shrubby  stalk  4  or  5  feet  high,  with 
its  berries  growing  at  the  division  of  the  branches  ;  this  is  small,  oval- 
shaped,  and  of  a  bright-red  colour,  from  which,  as  already  stated,  the 
best  cayenne  is  made.  (3)  Capsicum  grossum,  the  bell-pepper  ;  the 
fruit  of  this  is  red,  and  is  the  only  kind  fit  for  pickling. 

Cinnamon  (Fr. — cannelle}.  —  The  cinnamon  tree  (Laurus  Cinna- 
momum']  is  a  valuable  and  beautiful  species  of  the  laurel  family,  and 
grows  to  the  height  of  20  or  30  feet.  It  is  believed  to  have  been  origin- 
ally grown  in  Ceylon,  where  it  is  still  largely  cultivated.  It  also 
grows  in  Madras,  Bombay,  and  Java.  The  trunk  of  the  tree  is  short 
and  straight,  with  wide-spreading  branches,  and  it  has  a  smooth,  ash- 
like  bark.  The  inner  bark  forms  the  cinnamon  of  commerce.  When 
the  branches  are  3  years  old  they  are  stripped  of  their  outer  bark,  the 
inner  bark  is  dried,  causing  it  to  shrivel  up  and  assume  the  quilt-like 
form  in  which  it  is  imported.  The  best  cinnamon  is  rather  light  in 
colour,  and  not  much  thicker  than  paper.  Besides  being  used  ex- 
tensively for  culinary  purposes,  cinnamon  is  much  employed  as  a 
powerful  stimulant. 

Cloves  (Fr. — Girofle}. — This  very  agreeable  spice  is  the  dried  flower- 
buds  of  the  Caryophyllus  aromaticus,  a  handsome  branching  tree,  a 
native  of  the  Malacca  Islands.  They  take  their  name  from  the  Latin 
word  clavus,  or  the  French  clou,  both  meaning  a  nail,  to  which  the 


HERBS,  CONDIMENTS,  AND  AUXILIARIES       1643 

clove  has  a  considerable  resemblance.  Cloves  were  but  little  known 
to  the  ancients,  and  Pliny  appears  to  be  the  only  writer  who  mentions 
them  :  and  he  says,  vaguely  enough,  that  some  were  brought  to  Rome, 
very  similar  to  grains  of  pepper,  but  somewhat  longer  :  that  they  were 
only  found  in  India,  in  a  wood  consecrated  to  the  gods  ;  and  that  they 
served  in  the  manufacture  of  perfumes.  The  Dutch,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  nutmeg,  endeavoured,  when  they  gained  possession  of  the  Spice 
Islands,  to  secure  a  monopoly  of  cloves,  and,  so  that  the  cultivation 
might  be  confined  to  Ambroyna,  their  chief  island,  bribed  the  sur- 
rounding chiefs  to  cut  down  all  trees  elsewhere.  The  Ambroyna,  or 
royal  clove,  is  said  to  be  the  best,  and  is  rare  :  but  other  kinds,  nearly 
equally  good,  are  produced  in  other  parts  of  the  world,  and  they  come 
to  Europe  from  Mauritius,  Bourbon,  Cayenne,  and  Martinique,  as  also 
from  St.  Kitt's,  St.  Vincent's,  and  Trinidad.  The  clove  contains  about 
20  per  cent,  of  volatile  aromatic  oil.  to  which  is  attributed  its  peculiar 
pungent  flavour,  its  other  parts  being  composed  of  woody  fibre,  v 
gum,  and  resin. 

Coriander  (Fr. — Coriandre}. — This  plant,  the  Coriandrum  sativum. 
is  of  Eastern  origin.  The  seeds  of  the  plant,  when  t'resh.  have  a  dis- 
agreeable smell  :  in  their  dry  state  they  are  used  by  the  confectioner, 
distiller,  and  in  the  manufacture  of  curry-powder,  but  very  rarely  in 
ordinary  cookery. 

Curry  (Fr. — Poudre  de  Kari). — Curry  is  composed  of  various  comliments 
and  spices,  which  include  cardamon-sced,  coriand< 
dried  cassia  leaves,  dried  chillies,  cayenn  mustard-seed,  tur- 

meric, cinnamon,  mace,  and  cloves.  It  ours  its  peculiar  odour  and  bright 
colour  to  the  presence  of  turmeric,  a  variety  of  gingt 
in  the  East  Indies.  Thorough  cooking  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
develop  the  full  flavour  of  the  various  ingredients  comprising  curry  - 
powder,  the  directions  given  in  the  respective  recipes  for  preparing  the 
curry  sauce  before  adding  to  it  other  substances  should  therefore  be 
strictly  followed. 

Ginger  (Fr.—Gtngembre}. — Ginger  is  the  tuber  of  a  perennial  plant 
called  Zingiber  officinale.  growing  chiefly  in  the  West  Indies.  There 
are  two  varieties  ;  the  white  and  the  black.  The  former  is  considered 
the  better,  and  is  prepared  by  washing  and  scalding  the  tubers,  and 
then  scraping  them  and  drying  them  in  the  sun  :  in  the  black  gin-rr 
the  scraping  process  is  omitted,  it  being  merely  scalded  before  being 
Ginger  is  much  used  in  culinary  operations  :  grated  green 
ginger  is  deemed  by  epicures  to  be  an  important  item  in  a  dish  of  curry. 

Lemon  (Fr. — Citron}. — This  fruit  is  a  native  of  Asia,  and  was  first 
cultivated  in  England  in  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century. 
Lemons  are  imi>orted  in  large  quantities  from  the  Azores,  St.  Helena, 
Spain,  and  Portugal,  those  from  Spain  being  considered  the  best.  The 
juice  of  the  lemon  is  n  in  many  culinary  operations,  being 

employed  in  some  as  a  bleaching  agent,  in  others  to  expedite  disinte- 


1644  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

gralion  and  thereby  soften  the  fibres  of  the  substance,  while  a  third 
purpose  it  fulfils  is  that  of  adding  piquancy  to  sauces  and  other  pre- 
parations. Citric  acid,  extracted  from  lemons,  is  largely  employed  as 
an  anti-scorbutic.  The  rind  of  the  lemon  contains  an  essential  oil  of 
very  high  flavour  and  fragrance.  This  oil  is  contained  in  tiny  cells 
on  the  surface  of  the  lemon,  immediately  beneath  which  lies  a  white 
pith  with  a  bitter,  disagreeable  flavour.  As  a  rule  the  rind  is  grated, 
but  the  best  way  to  obtain  the  largest  amount  of  the  essence  from  the 
lemon  without  encroaching  on  the  white  pith,  is  to  pare  off  the  rind 
in  small,  almost  transparent  strips  with  a  sharp  knife.  The  peel, 
preserved  by  boiling  in  syrup,  forms  the  well-known  candied  peel. 

Mace  (Fr. — Masse). — Mace  is  the  outer  shell  or  husk  of  the  nut- 
meg, and  naturally  resembles  it  in  flavour.  Its  general  qualities  are 
the  same  as  those  of  the  nutmeg,  producing  an  agreeable  aromatic 
odour.  When  good  its  hue  is  orange-yellow. 

Mustard  (Fr. — Moutarde). — There  are  two  varieties  of  mustard  seeds. 
Sinapis  nigra  (the  common)  and  Sinapis  alba  (the  white).  The  mustard 
of  commerce  is  composed  of  the  seeds  of  both  varieties,  ground  and 
mixed  together.  Mustard  taken  in  small  quantities  is  said  to  stimulate 
the  appetite  and  aid  digestion.  The  pungency  of  mustard  is  not  fully 
developed  until  moistened  with  water  ;  its  flavour  is  best  when  freshly 
prepared.  A  pinch  of  salt  added  to  mixed  mustard  will  prevent  it 
from  becoming  dry,  and  in  some  slight  degree  preserve  its  aroma. 

Nutmegs  (Fr. — Noix  de  Muscat}. — Nutmegs  are  the  seeds  of  the 
nutmeg  tree,  known  to  botanists  as  the  Myristica  moschata.  This  tree 
is  a  native  of  the  Molucca  Islands,  but  is  now  cultivated  in  Java, 
Cayenne,  Sumatra,  and  some  of  the  West  Indian  Islands.  There  are 
two  lands  of  nutmegs — one  wild,  and  long  and  oval-shaped,  the  other 
cultivated  and  nearly  round  :  the  husk  which  surrounds  the  shell  of 
the  nutmeg  when  growing  is  known  as  mace.  This  familiar  spice  is 
largely  used  as  a  flavouring  :  but  it  should  be  added  sparingly  to 
farinaceous  preparations,  for  its  strong  aromatic  flavour  is  greatly  dis- 
liked by  many.  Forcemeats  and  similar  preparations  containing  pars- 
ley and  other  herbs  may  have  a  comparatively  large  amount  of  nutmeg 
mixed  with  them,  and  yet  the  flavour  of  the  spice  will  be  hardly 
perceptible.  It  is  generally  thought  that  the  strength  of  the  nutmeg 
is  spent  in  developing  the  flavour  of  the  herbs  with  which  it  is  mixed. 

Pepper  (Fr. — Poivre}. — This  valuable  condiment  is  produced  from 
the  seed  of  the  berries  of  the  plant  known  by  the  name  of  Piper  nigrum. 
The  plant,  a  species  of  climbing  vine,  is  a  native  of  the  East  Indies, 
and  is  extensively  cultivated  in  Malabar  and  the  eastern  islands  of 
Borneo,  Sumatra,  and  Java,  and  also  in  Cayenne.  The  berries  hang  on 
the  branches  of  the  plant  in  bunches  :  in  shape  they  resemble  the 
grape,  but  each  berry  grows  distinct  on  a  little  stalk  like  currants. 
The  same  plant  produces  both  white  and  black  pepper.  The  berries, 
when  ripe,  are  bright  red  in  colour,  and  each  contains  a  single  seed  of 


HERBS,  COXDIMKNTS.  AND  AUXILIARIES       1045 

globular  form  and  brownish  hue,  which  changes  to  nearly  black  when 
dried.  This  is  the  black  pepper  of  commerce,  white  peppercorns  being 
produced  by  steeping  the  dark  berries  in  lime  and  water,  and  after- 
wards subjecting  them  to  certain  rubbing  processes,  by  which  their 
dark  husks  are  removed. 

Pepper,  Krona. — This  well-known  condiment  is  made  from  the 
Hungarian  paprika,  capsicum  pod,  etc.  It  is  bright-red  in  colour, 
with  an  agreeable  flavour,  and  with  less  pungency  than  cayenne,  and 
consequently  may  be  regarded  as  an  exceedingly  useful  combination 
of  flavouring  and  seasoning  ingredients. 

Pepper,  Mignonette. — This  is  ordinary  white  pepper  with  the  husks 
removed  and  crushed  finely,  but  not  ground. 

Salt  (Fr. — Sel}. — The  importance  of  salt  as  a  condiment,  as  an 
antiseptic,  and  an  article  of  food  cannot  be  overestimated.  In  cookery 
its  uses  are  apparently  contradictory,  for  it  aids  in  softening  certain 
substances  when  applied  through  the  medium  of  cold  water,  and 
greatly  assists  in  hardening  the  same  when  the  medium  is  boiling 
water.  It  increases  the  specific  gravity  of  water,  and  consequently 
raises  the  boiling  point,  a  matter  of  considerable  importance  in  boiling 
rice,  when  it  is  necessary  to  keep  the  water  in  a  state  of  ebullition  to 
prevent  the  rice  coalescing.  Every  other  condiment,  no  matter  how 
irable,  may  be  dispensed  with,  or  one  condiment  may  be  substitute! 
for  another,  but  salt  is  absolutely  indispensable,  for  it  makes  palatable 
food  that  would  otherwise  be  uneatable.  Salt,  like  all  other  seasonii 
must  be  used  with  judgment  :  the  expression  "  salt  to  taste,"  e\ 
when  applied  to  water  in  which  vegetables  are  cooked,  means  that  the 
amateur  should  taste  the  water  until  experience  teaches  her  how  much 
to  add. 

Sugar     Fr. — Sucre}. — Sugar,  like  salt,  is  both  an  antiseptic   and    a 
valuable  food,  as  well  as  a  useful  flavouring  ingredient.     What  salt  is 
to  meat  and  vegetables,  sugar  is  to  all  fruits  and  many  farinacc 
foods,  rendering  palatable  what  would  otherwise  be  insipid  or  un< 
able  in  consequence  of  extreme  sourness.     In  very  small  quantii 

frequently  used  to  soften  or  heighten  the  flavour  of  ragouts 
and  sauces. 

Turmeric    (Fr. — Merite}. — Turmeric  is    the    tuber    of    the    Cucuwa 
longa,  a  branch  of  the  ginger  family,  extensively  cultivated  in  the  East 
Indies.     The  tubers  are  dried  and  then  ground  to  a  fine  powder.     'I 
condiment  e;  ely  into  the  composition  of  curry-powder,  and 

gives  to  it  the  peculiar  odour  and  the  bright  yellow  colour  which  that 
compound  possess 

Vanilla  (Fr.—  VanilU).— Vanilla    is  the  fruit  of    a  tropical    orchid 
plant,  th  n-hich  are  now  grown  in  Mexico.     The  dried, 

aromatic  sheath-like  pod  has  a  delicious  fragrance.     Its  use  was  first 
discovered  by  the  Spaniards,  but  it  is  now  extensively  cmplo\ 
flavouring  for  cakes,  custards,  puddings,  chocolate,  liqueurs,  etc.     1  he 


1646  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

most  familiar  form  is  the  essence  of  vanilla,  extracted  from  the  pod, 
but  its  use  cannot  be  recommended,  for  being  volatile,  the  greater  part 
of  its  flavour  escapes  during  the  process  of  cooking.  It  is  much  better 
to  use  vanilla  pods  or  vanilla  sugar. 

Vinegar  (Fr. — Vinaigre}. — The  best  vinegar  comes  from  France,  and 
is  made  from  white  wine.  Ordinary  vinegar  is  made  chiefly  from  malt, 
cheap  wine  and  cider,  by  a  long  process  whereby  acetic  acid  is  produced. 
Any  of  these  vinegars  may  be  used  to  form  the  base  of  chilli,  tarragon, 
or  eschalot  vinegar,  the  ingredients  from  which  they  take  their  name 
being  steeped  in  the  vinegar  until  the  desired  flavour  is  imparted.  An 
inferior  variety  of  vinegar  is  distilled  from  wood,  but  it  is  somewhat 
lacking  in  flavour,  and  consequently  considered  suitable  only  for 
pickling  purposes.  Vinegar  serves  many  useful  purposes  in  cookery  : 
it  enters  largely  into  the  composition  of  many  sauces,  and  greatly 
assists  in  softening  the  fibres  of  tough  meat.  Vinegar  is  also  an  anti- 
septic :  and  taken  in  small  quantities  it  promotes  digestion,  by  stimu- 
lating the  organs  engaged  in  the  process  into  greater  activity  ;  but  if 
taken  in  excess,  it  is  highly  injurious. 

Auxiliaries 

Baking  Powder. — Mix  well  together  4  ozs.  of  ground  rice,  4  ozs.  of 
carbonate  of  soda,  and  3  ozs.  of  tartaric  acid,  and  pass  them  through 
a  fine  sieve.  Keep  in  an  air-tight  tin. 

Blancbing. — Some  things  are  blanched  to  improve  their  colour,  others 
to  remove  some  strong,  undesirable  flavour.  In  all  cases  the  process  is 
the  same,  the  article  being  immersed  in  a  saucepan  of  cold  water,  which 
is  brought  to  boiling  point,  and  then  strained  off. 

Bouquet  Garni. — This  name  is  given  to  the  small  bunch  of  herbs  so 
much  used  for  flavouring  sauces,  soups,  and  stews.  In  its  most  simple 
form  it  consists  of  a  sprig  of  thyme,  marjoram,  and  a  bayleaf  wrapped 
together  in  parsley,  and  tied  into  a  little  roll.  To  these  may  be  added 
a  small  quantity  of  one  or  more  of  the  following  :  chervil,  chives,  celery 
leaf,  basil,  tarragon. 

Breadcrumbs  (White). — Remove  the  crust  from  some  stale  bread  and 
rub  it  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  using  the  palm  of  the  hand  for  the 
purpose.  Any  crumbs  left  over  from  egging  and  bread-crumbing 
should  be  dried  in  the  oven,  passed  through  a  sieve,  and  kept  in  an 
air-tight  tin  or  jar  for  future  use. 

Breadcrumbs  (Brown). — Put  the  crusts  removed  from  the  loaf  in 
making  white  breadcrumbs,  or  any  pieces  of  stale  bread  there  may  be, 
into  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  them  brown.  Then  crush  them  with 
a  rolling  pin  or  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  pass  them  through  a  fine  wire 
sieve,  and  keep  them  in  an  air-tight  tin.  To  make  them  more  quickly, 
brown  white  breadcrumbs  in  a  hot  oven,  turning  them  frequently 
during  the  process,  pass  them  through  a  fine  sieve  and  use. 


HERBS,  CONDIMENTS,  AND  AUXILIARIES        11.47 

Breadcrumbs  v Fried). — Put  some  fresh,  fine  while  breadcrumbs  into 
a  frying-pan  or  baking-tin,  with  a  small  piece  of  butter  :  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  either  fry  or  bake  until  well-browned.  Drain 
well  on  paper,  and  serve  hot  with  roast  game. 

Browning  or  Liquid  Caramel. — Put  i  Ib.  of  either  loaf  or  moist  sugar 
into  a  copper  stewpan,  add  about  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water,  and 
stir  over  a  slow  fire  until  the  mixture  turns  dark  brown.  When  a 
whitish  smoke  appears  it  is  a  sign  that  the  sugar  is  done.  As  soon  as 
this  point  is  reached,  remove  the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  and  pour  in 
about  £  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Bring  to  the  boil,  stirring  meanwhile, 
and  continue  the  cooking  until  the  caramel  has  the  consistency  of 
syrup.  When  cool,  bottle  for  use.  If  a  copper  stewpan  is  not  avail- 
able, use  a  small  iron  saucepan ;  put  i  Ib.  of  moist  sugar  and 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  salt  into  a  frying-pan,  and  cook  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  the  mixture  becomes  dark-brown.  Then  add  f  of  a  pint  of 
boiling  water,  stir  until  the  water  re-boils,  and  simmer  until  the  cara- 
mel acquires  the  consistency  of  syrup.  When  cold,  bottle  for  use  ; 
put  2  ozs.  of  crushed  loaf  sugar  into  a  small  iron  saucepan,  with  i 
teaspoonful  of  cold  water,  and  stir  with  an  iron  spoon  over  a  slow  fire 
until  the  sugar  turns  dark-brown  :  then  add  \  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 
stir  until  it  re-boils  :  simmer  from  15  to  20  minutes,  and,  when  cool, 
pour  into  a  bottle.  Some  little  care  is  needed  in  making  caramel,  as 
it  is  so  very  apt  to  burn,  when  it  becomes  acrid  and  unpleasant  :  it. 
on  the  other  hand,  it  is  not  sufficiently  cooked,  a  disagreeable  sweet 
taste  will  be  imparted  to  everything  to  which  it  is  added. 

Butter  (Clarified). — Put  the  butter  into  a  small  stewpan,  let  it  heat 
slowly  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  removing  the  scum  as  it  rises,  and  when 
the  butter  presents  the  appearance  of  clear  salad-oil,  carefully  pour  it 
oft  from  the  sediment  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Clarified  butter,  or, 
as  it  is  sometimes  called,  oiled  or  melted  butter,  is  frequently  served 
instead  of  sauce  with  fish,  meat,  and  vegetables  :  it  is  also  used  to 
moisten  the  surface  of  many  things  grilled  or  cooked  "  au  gratin  "  : 
and  it  is  also  frequently  employed  for  coating  moulds  and  baking-tins. 

Butter  (Anchovy). — To  i  oz.  of  butter  add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon- 
juice,  i  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence  or  paste,  a  pinch  of  cayenne, 
and  a  few  drops  of  cochineal  or  carmine.  Mix  all  well  together. 
and  use  as  required. 

Butter  (Maitre  d' Hotel). — Mix  well  together  i  oz.  of  butter,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  finely-chopped  parsley,  and  i  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
a  little  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Spread  the  preparation  on  a  plate, 
and  when  cold  and  firm,  use  as  required. 

Caul. — Pig's  caul  is  best  to  use.  Let  it  remain  in  salt  and  water 
until  required,  changing  the  water  each  day.  Drain  it  well  before 
using. 

Coating  with  Egg  and  Breadcrumbs. — For  this  purpose  an  egg,  slightly 
beaten,  and  without  seasoning  or  flavouring  of  any  description,  is 


1648  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

frequently  used  :  but  better  results  may  be  obtained  by  adding  to  the 
egg  i  teaspoonful  of  salad-oil  or  clarified  butter,  i  dessertspoonful  of 
milk,  £  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  this  quantity  of  pepper.  These 
ingredients  being  mixed  together  on  a  plate,  the  articles  to  be  fried 
should  be  laid  separate"/  in  the  preparation,  and  coated  thickly  by 
means  of  a  small  brush.  After  being  well  drained  on  the  point  of  a 
knife,  they  should  be  tossed  lightly  in  plenty  of  breadcrumbs  held  in 
a  sheet  of  paper.  Before  frying,  the  crumbs  should  be  pressed  firmly 
on  with  the  blade  of  a  knife. 

Crofites  and  Croutons. — Of  these  there  are  various  kinds.  The  large 
croute,  used  as  a  support  for  an  entree,  is  usually  cut  according  to  the 
size  of  the  dish  in  which  it  will  be  served.  The  size  therefore  varies, 
but  the  average  may  be  taken  as  6£  inches  in  length,  about  4+  in 
breadth,  and  from  i  £  to  2  inches  in  depth.  Unless  the  crust  of  the 
bread  can  be  utilized,  there  is  considerable  waste  in  the  cutting.  The 
small  croutes  used  for  garnish  or  savouries  should  be  cut  out  of  slices 
of  stale  bread  about  %  to  \  an  inch  in  thickness.  They  may  be  cut 
round,  oval,  square,  in  triangles  or  heart-shaped,  according  to  fancy. 
They  are  nicest  when  fried  in  clarified  butter  until  lightly  browned, 
but  clarified  fat  does  very  well  as  a  substitute.  After  frying,  they 
should  always  be  well  drained,  and  kept  hot  and  crisp  in  front  of  the 
fire,  or  in  the  mouth  of  the  oven.  Another  excellent  way  of  preparing 
croutes  is  to  dip  them  in  good  gravy  or  well-seasoned  stock  until 
saturated,  and  then  place  on  a  buttered  baking-tin  in  the  oven  until 
crisp.  To  make  croutons  to  be  served  with  soup,  cut  some  stale  bread 
into  dice,  £  of  an  inch  in  size,  fry  them  in  hot  butter  or  fat  until  lightly 
browned,  drain  them  first  in  a  gravy  strainer  and  then  on  paper  until 
quite  free  from  grease. 

Frying  Batter. — Put  4  ozs.  of  flour  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  into  a 
basin,  add  gradually  ^-  of  a  pint  of  tepid  water  and  i  tablespoonful 
of  salad  oil  or  clarified  butter,  and  mix  into  a  smooth  batter.  If  time 
permits,  put  it  aside  for  about  i  hour,  then  just  before  using,  stir  in 
lightly  two  stiffly- whisked  whites  of  eggs. 

Glaze. — Put  4  quarts  of  good  second  stock  into  a  stewpan,  boil  gently 
until  reduced  to  about  \  a  pint,  skimming  very  frequently  meanwhile. 
When  reduced  to  about  i  pint,  the  stock  should  be  transferred  to  a 
smaller  stewpan.  To  make  a  little  cheap  glaze  for  immediate  use, 
dissolve  i  or  2  sheets  of  gelatine  in  2  or  3  tablespoonfuls  of  good  gravy  : 
if  necessary,  add  a  few  drops  of  liquid  caramel,  and  when  cold  and  on 
the  point  of  setting,  use  as  required. 

Mirepolx. — A  mirepoix  is  the  foundation  for  flavouring  sauces,  braised 
meats,  and  a  number  of  thick  soups.  It  usually  consists  of  equal 
quantities  of  onion  and  carrot,  half  the  quantity  of  turnip,  i  or  2  slices 
of  raw  ham  or  bacon,  a  little  butter,  a  bouquet-garni  (parsley,  thyme, 
bayleaf),  a  few  peppercorns,  and  i  or  2  cloves.  In  recipes  where  the 
mirepoix  occurs  the  exact  quantities  of  the  ingredients  comprising  it 


HERBS,  CONDIMENTS,  AND  AUXILIARIES       1649 

given.  In  all  cases  where  it  is  intended  the  mirepoix  should  form 
foundation  for  braising,  sufficient  vegetables  should  be  used  to 
lake  a  substantial  bed  upon  which  to  place  the  bird,  joint,  etc. 

Mustard  (To  mix). — Mustard  is  usually  prepared  for  use  by  simply 
:ing  it  smoothly  with  cold  water  :  and  it  is  generally  considered  of 

jht  consistency  when  sufficiently  moist  to  drop  slowly  from  the  spoon. 

saltspoonful  of  salt  added  to  each  tablespoonful  of  mustard  not  only 

iproves  the  flavour,  but  it  also  prevents  the  mustard  from  becoming 

quickly  dry.  If  desired,  the  pungency  may  be  greatly  increased  by 
lixing  a  little  chilli  vinegar  and  cayenne  with  the  mustard,  the  flavour 
>f  the  whole  being  softened  by  the  addition  of  a  good  pinch  of  sugar. 
On  the  other  hand,  when  a  very  mild  flavour  of  mustard  is  liked,  it 
may  be  obtained  by  using  cream  or  milk,  preferably  the  former,  instead 
of  water.  In  any  case  it  should  be  mixed  in  small  quantities,  as  it 
quickly  loses  its  flavour  and  fresh  appearance. 

Panade  or  Panada. — Put  £  a  pint  of  water,  i  oz.  of  butter,  and  a  good 
pinch  of  salt  into  a  small  stewpan.  When  boiling,  stir  in  gradually 
4  ozs.  of  sifted  flour,  and  work  vigorously  with  a  wooden  spoon  over  the 
fire  until  the  panada  leaves  the  sides  of  the  stewpan  clear.  Spread 
on  a  plate,  and  when  cool,  use  as  directed.  Panada  is  used  to  bind 
together  ingredients  which  themselves  possess  no  adhesive  pro- 
perties. 

Parsley,  To  blanch. — \\V11  wash  the  parsley,  pick  it  free  from  stalks, 
put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  some  cold  salted  water,  and  when  the  boiling 
point  is  reached,  strain  it  off  and  dry  the  parsley  by  squeezing  it  well 
in  a  clean  cloth.  The  stalks  of  the  parsley  may  be  used  for  flavouring 
stocks  and  soups,  for  which  purpose  they  answer  quite  as  well  as,  if 
not  better  than,  the  leaves. 

Parsley,  To  chop. — Parsley  intended  for  garnish  should  always  be 
blanched,  but  for  ordinary  purposes  thorough  washing  of  the  sprigs, 
picked  free  from  stalks,  is  all  that  is  necessary.  After  drying  well  in 
a  clean  cloth,  chop  it  finely,  keeping  the  left  hand  pressed  firmly  on  the 
point  of  the  knife,  whilst  moving  the  handle  up  and  down  rapidly  with 
the  right.  When  fine  enough,  gather  up  the  parsley  in  the  corner  of 
a  clean  cloth  and  hold  it  under  the  tap,  or  in  a  basin,  squeezing  with 
the  fingers  until  the  water  running  from  it  is  clear  and  bright  green  : 
then  wring  dry,  and  use. 

Parsley,  To  fry. — Remove  some  small  sprigs  from  some  fresh  parsley, 
wash  it  in  cold  water,  drain  well,  and  press  gently  in  a  clean,  dry  cloth 
to  absorb  as  much  moisture  as  possible,  otherwise  the  damp  leaves 
may  cause  the  hot  fat  to  spurt  up  in  an  unpleasant,  if  not  dangerous, 
manner.  When  the  articles  are  fried,  put  the  parsley  in  a  wire 
basket  into  the  fat,  and  fry  about  i  minute,  when  it  should  be 
crisp.  Or,  when  a  frying-basket  is  not  available,  leave  rather  long 
stalks  attached  to  the  parsley,  tie  them  together  with  string,  and 
let  a  long  end  remain,  by  which  the  parsley  can  be  held  whilst  frying. 


1650  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Fried  parsley  can  be  kept  fresh  and  crisp  for  several  days  if  stored  in 
an  air-tight  tin  :  before  using,  it  should  be  re-heated  in  the  oven. 

Peel  :  To  Peel  Almonds  and  Pistachios. — Cover  the  nuts  with  boiling 
water,  let  them  remain  for  6  or  7  minutes,  then  strain,  replace  them  in 
the  basin,  and  cover  with  cold  water.  When  cool,  drain  well,  and 
remove  the  skins  by  pressing  each  nut  between  the  thumb  and  fore- 
finger. Dry  well  on  a  sieve,  and  use  as  required. 

Potato  Border  (White). — For  one  border  allow  3  medium-sized  potatoes. 
Boil  or  steam  them  and  pass  through  a  fine  sieve.  Add  i  raw  yolk  of 
egg,  £  an  oz.  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  well  mix  the 
ingredients  over  the  fire.  As  soon  as  the  potato  is  cool  enough  to 
handle,  shape  it  into  a  long,  narrow  roll,  using  as  little  flour  as 
possible  :  arrange  it  on  the  dish  in  a  round  or  oval  form,  re-heat  in 
the  oven,  and  use. 

Potato  Border  (Brown). — Prepare  a  border  as  directed  above,  place 
it  carefully  on  a  greased  baking-tin,  brush  over  with  beaten  egg,  bake 
until  nicely  browned,  then  transfer  to  a  hot  dish,  using  two  fish  slices 
for  the  purpose. 

Rice  Border  (Socle). — Borders  of  rice  or  white  fat  are  frequently  used 
to  raise  a  cold  entree  above  the  level  of  the  dish.  To  make  a  rice 
border,  put  i  Ib.  of  well-washed  Caroline  rice  into  a  stewpan,  with  3 
pints  of  cold  water  and  i  teaspoonful  of  salt  :  cook  slowly  until  the 
water  is  absorbed  and  the  rice  perfectly  tender,  then  pound  it  to  a 
smooth  paste  in  a  mortar.  Press  well  into  a  wetted  border  mould, 
or  turn  the  rice  on  to  a  pastry  slab  or  large  dish,  knead  well  with  the 
hands  until  a  smooth  elastic  paste  is  obtained,  then  shape  it  with  a 
couple  of  wooden  spoons  into  a  round  or  oval  block.  The  edges  must 
be  neatly  trimmed  with  a  sharp  knife,  and,  if  liked,  they  may  be  cut 
by  the  same  means  into  a  serrated,  fluted,  or  other  suitable  design. 
The  socle  should  be  allowed  to  become  firm  before  being  used. 

Rice  (For  curry). — Put  £  a  Ib.  of  Patna  rice  in  a  stewpan,  with 
sufficient  cold  water  to  cover  it  :  bring  to  the  boil,  then  strain,  and 
hold  the  strainer  under  the  cold  water  tap  until  the  rice  is  thoroughly 
washed.  Have  ready  3  or  4  pints  of  salted  boiling  water,  put  in  the 
rice,  and  cook  from  12  to  15  minutes,  then  turn  it  into  a  colander, 
pour  some  hot  water  over  it,  cover  with  a  clean  dry  cloth,  and  let  the 
rice  remain  in  the  screen  or  near  the  fire  for  about  2  hours,  when  every 
grain  should  be  separate.  A  less  troublesome,  but  at  the  same  time 
less  satisfactory,  way  of  preparing  rice  is  to  omit  the  blanching  pro- 
cess, and  simply  wash  the  rice  in  cold  water  before  cooking.  It  is 
boiled  as  described  above,  and  the  finishing  process  may  be  carried 
out  in  two  ways  :  In  the  first,  after  being  strained  and  rinsed  in  cold 
water,  the  rice  is  returned  to  the  saucepan  and  allowed  to  remain, 
covered  with  a  clean  cloth  or  with  the  lid  tilted  for  about  i  hour, 
when  each  grain  should  be  separate  and  perfectly  dry.  Or,  after  being 
washed  and  rinsed,  it  may  be  tied  loosely  in  a  pudding  cloth,  and 


HERBS,  CONDIMENTS,  AND  AUXILIARIES        1651 

steamed  for  i  hour  ;  when  a  steamer  is  not  available,  the  rice  may  be 
laid  on  a  plate  on  the  top  of  an  inverted  basin,  and  placed  in  a  saucepan 
containing  a  lit.tle  boiling  water. 

Roux. — This  is  the  French  term  for  a  preparation  used  for  thickening 
sauces,  soups,  and  gravies.  There  are  three  kinds  of  roux  :  "  white," 
"  blond,"  and  "  brown,"  all  of  which  consist  of  equal  quantities  of 
butter  and  flour  cooked  together  over  the  fire.  The  butter  and  flour 
are  tried  for  a  few  minutes  without  browning,  when  white  roux  is 
required,  and  until  slightly  browned  in  making  blond  roux ;  but  when 
the  third  variety  is  desired,  the  frying  process  must  be  prolonged  until 
the  roux  acquires  a  rich  nut-brown  colour.  (See  p.  2«>S  tor  further 
particulars.) 

Salpicon. — This  name  is  applied  to  the  various  mixtures  used  for 
filling  timbales,  bombs,  patty-cases,  croustades,  ramakins,  etc.  It  may 
consist  of  dice  of  chicken,  game,  veal,  ham,  tongue,  truffles,  mushrooms, 
oysters,  shrimps,  lobster,  sole,  or  other  kind  of  fish,  variously  seasoned, 
and  moistened  with  a  thick  sauce,  usually  Bechamel  or  Espagnole. 

Sieve  :  To  Rub  or  Pass  Through  a  Sieve. — The  means  employed  for 
rubbing  or  pressing  any  substance  through  a  sieve  is  the  back  of  the 
bowl  of  a  wooden  spoon,  the  exception  being  breadcrumbs,  which  are 
usually  rubbed  through  with  the  palm  of  the  hand.  In  the  case  of 
meat,  lentil,  haricot,  and  similar  purees,  sieving  is  not  an  ea^y  pi 
but  it  may  be  greatly  facilitated  by  frequently  moistening  the  puree 
with  any  liquid  ingredients  included  in  the  recipe. 

To  Whip  Cream. — Put  the  cream  into  a  cold  basin,  and  stand  in  a 
cool  place  whilst  whipping  it.  Use  an  ordinary  wire  whisk  for  t he- 
purpose,  whip  gently  until  the  cream  begins  to  thicken,  then  a  little 
more  quickly.  In  warm  weather  cream  quickly  turns  to  butter  if 
m-erwhipped  :  should  this  occur,  continue  the  whipping  to  make  the 
conversion  complete,  and  use  the  butter  for  cookery  purposes.  Y\  hen 
the  whipped  cream  is  not  intended  for  immediate  use,  let  it  drain  on 
a  hair  sieve  in  a  cool  place  until  required. 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY 

,..,,.^*££» ,    TERMS 

CHAPTER  LXII 

Abaisse  (Fr.).     A  paste  thinly  rolled  out,  used  for  lining  tarts  and  souffles, 

croustades,  etc. 
Abatis  (Fr.).     The  head,  neck,  liver,  comb,  kernels,  and  wings  of  a  bird 

Giblets. 

Abrieot6  (Fr.).     Candied  apricot  (Eng.).      Masked  with  apricot  marmalade. 
Absinthe  (Fr.).     Name  of  an  aromatic  plant  ;   also  that  of  a  liqueur  prepared 

from  this  plant,  much  used  in  France  and  Switzerland  as  a  beverage 

to  stimulate  the  appetite  ;    sometimes  used  for  flavouring  purposes. 
Swiss    Absinthe    is    made  from    plants  related  to  wormwood  and 

southernwood. 
Aceto  dolce  (It.)  (Sour  and  sweet).     A  kind  of  Italian  pickle,  prepared  with 

various  sorts  of  fruit,  preserved  in  vinegar  and  honey.     It  is  served 

with  meats. 

Achaja.     Name  of  a  Greek  wine. 

Africaine  (a  I').     African  style.     Also  a  name  for  small  tartlets. 
Agneau  (Fr.).     Lamb  (Eng.).     A  young  sheep. 
Agneau  de  lait  (Fr.).     A  milk  lamb. 

Aide  de  Cuisine  (Fr.).     Undercook  (Eng.).     Assistant  cook. 
Aiguillettes  (Fr.).     Needles.     Small  strips  of  cooked  meat  or  fish. 
Aguille-a-Brider  (Fr.).     Larding  needle. 
Ajoutees  (Fr.).     Added  or  mixed  ;   small  garnish  or  side  dishes  served  with  a 

vegetable  course. 

A  la  Broche  (Fr.).     Roasted  in  front  of  the  fire  on  a  spit  or  skewer. 
A  la  mode  de  (Fr.).     After  the  style  or  fashion  of,  e.g.,  a  la  Fra^aise,  French 

style  ;     a  la   Reine,   Queen  style  ;     a  I'lmperatrice,    Empress  style  ; 

a  la  Russe,  Russian  style,  etc. 
A  rAllemande.     German  style.     A  term  applied   to  dishes  prepared  in    a 

manner  peculiar  to  Germany.     Thus  a  dish  garnished  with  sauerkraut 

and  pork  (pickled  and  boiled)  is  called  a  rAllemande.     A  dish  gar- 
nished with  potato  quenelles  or  smoked  sausages  may  be  similarly 

defined. 
Allemande  (Fr.).     A  white  reduced  veloute  sauce,  made  from  veal  stock, 

thickened  with  flour,  cream,  yolk  of  egg,  and  seasoned  with  nutmeg 

and  lemon -juice. 
Allerei  (Ger.).     Name  of  a  German  dish,  consisting  of  stewed  early  spring 

vegetables.     A  kind  of  macedoine  of  vegetables,  popular  in  Leipzig. 
Aloyau  (Sirloin).     The  sirloin  of  beef  is  said  to  owe  its  name  to  King  Charles  II, 

who,  dining  off  a  loin  of  beef,  and  being  well  pleased  with  it,  asked  the 

name  of  the  joint.     On  being  told,  he  said  :    "  For  its  merit,  then,  I 

will  knight  it,  and  henceforth  it  shall  be  called  Sir  Loin.     In  an  old 

ballad  the  incident  is  thus  referred  to — 

"  Our  Second  Charles,  of  fame  facete, 

On  loin  of  beef  did  dine  ; 
He  held  his  sword,  pleased,  o'er  the  meat, — 

4  Arise,  thou  famed  Sir  Loin  !  '  ' 
Ambigue  (Fr.).     A  term  indicating  that  the  meat  and  sweets  are  served  at 

the  same  time. 

1652 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TERMS  1653 

Ameaux  (Fr.).     Pastry  made  of  puff  paste  and  eggs. 

Amirale  (a  1')  (Fr.).  A  garnish;  used  chiefly  for  fish  consisting  of  fried 
oysters,  sliced  fillets  of  lobster,  and  brown  sauce.  The  term  is  also 
applied  to  meat  dishes  and  sweet  entremets. 

Anglaise  (a  1')  (Fr.).  English  style.  Affixed  to  a  dish  usually,  but  not 
necessarily,  implies  that  it  consists  of  something  plainly  roasted  or 
boiled,  or  that  the  dish  is  prepared  in  a  style  typical  of  Eng- 
land. 

Angouste  (a  I')  (Fr.).  An  American  garnish  for  meat  entrees,  consisting  of 
baked  eggs. 

Appereils  (Fr.).     Different  ingredients  mixed  together  into  a  puree  or  paste. 

Appetissants  (Fr.).  Appetising  bits  (Eng.).  Small  tit-bits  or  savouries  served 
before  or  between  the  courses  of  a  dinner. 

Aromates  (Fr.).  Aromatic  herbs  used  for  flavouring,  such  as  thyme,  bay- 
leaves,  tarragon,  chervil,  etc. 

Aspic  (Fr..).  A  savoury  jelly,  used  as  an  exterior  moulding  for  cold  savouries 
and  entrees  of  fish,  poultry,  game,  etc.  Also  used  for  garnishing. 
A  1'aspic,  set  in  aspic,  or  garnished  with  aspic. 

Aspiquer  (Fr.).  A  Parisian  culinary  phrase,  meaning  to  put  lemon-juice 
or  "  reduced  vinegar  "  into  a  jelly,  a  sauce  or  a  gravy  (gouffe)  ;  the 
expression  is  however  misleading,  the  proper  term  is  aciduler,  to 
acidulate. 

Assaisonnement  (Fr.).  Seasoning,  salt  and  pepper,  etc.  Forcemeat,  condi- 
ment, sauce. 

Assiette  (plate)  (Fr.).  Assiettes  are  the  small  entrees  and  hors  d'oeuvres,  the 
quantity  of  which  does  not  exceed  what  a  plate  will  hold.  At  dessert, 
fruits,  cheese,  chestnuts,  biscuits,  etc.,  if  served  upon  a  plate,  are  termed 
Assiettes. 

Assiette  volante  is  a  dish  which  a  servant  hands  round  to  the  guests, 
but  is  not  placed  upon  the  table.  Small  cheese  souffles,  and  different 
dishes  which  should  be  served  very  hot,  are  usually  made  Assiettes 
volantes. 

Atelets  (Fr.).  (Also  Hatelettes).  A  variety  of  skewers  used  for  decorating 
joints  and  entrees. 

Attereau  (Fr.).     A  popular  ragout  in  Bretagne. 

Attereaux  (Fr.).  Small  rounds  of  raw  minced  meat,  wrapped  in  a  pig's  caul 
and  cooked  on  skewers. 

Au  bleu  (Fr.).  A  culinary  term  applied  to  fish  boiled  in  salted  water,  seasoned 
with  vegetables,  herbs,  and  white  wine  or  vinegar. 

Au  four  (Fr.).     Baked  in  the  oven. 

Au  gras  (Fr.).     A  French  term  for  meat  dressed  with  rich  gravy  or  sauce. 

Au  gratin  (Fr.).  A  term  applied  to  certain  dishes  prepared  with  sauce,  gar- 
nish and  breadcrumbs,  and  baked  brown  in  the  oven  or  under  a  sala- 
mander ;  served  in  the  dish  in  which  they  are  baked. 

Au  jus  (Fr.).     A  term  for  dishes  of  meat  dressed  with  their  juice  or  gravy. 

Au  maigre  (Fr.).  A  French  expression  used  for  dishes  prepared  without 
meat.  Lenten  dishes. 

Au  naturel  (Fr.).     Food  cooked  plainly  and  simply. 

Aurore  (Fr.).  A  yellow  colour  (Eng.).  A  culinary  expression  meaning  "dished 
up "  high.  A  garnish  consisting  of  stuffed  eggs,  quartered,  bread 
croutons,  and  aurore  sauce. 

Aurore  sauce  consists  of  Allemande  or  Bechamel  and  Tomato  Sauce, 
flavoured  with  chilli  vinegar  and  dice  of  mushrooms. 

Baba  (Polish  babka).     A  very  light  yeast  cake.     A  substitute  for  tipsy  cake. 
Babka.     Name  of  a  Polish- Russian  cake.     Prepared  as  a  custard,  containing 
fruit,  almonds,  etc. 


1654  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Bagration  (Fr.).     A  word  used  to  denote  high-class  dishes  (soups).     Bagration 

was  a  Russian  Count,  whose  chief  cook  was  the  celebrated  A.  Car  erne. 
Bain-marie  (Ff.).     The  culinary  water  bath.     It  is  a  large  open  vessel,  half 

filled  with  hot  water,  in  which  saucepans  containing  sauces,  etc.  are 

kept  so  that  their  contents    are  nearly  at  the  boiling-point  without 

burning  or  reducing. 
Ballotine  (Fr.).     Slices  of  small  galantines,  usually  made  from  the  legs  of  game 

or  poultry.     Small  balls  or  rolls  of  meat  or  fowl. 
Baraquille  (Fr.).     A  large  pie  made  of  rice,  chicken  and  truffles. 
Barbecue  (Fr.).     The  mode  of  cooking  (roasting)  an  animal  whole  ;    a  social 

entertainment  in  the  open  air  ;    to  dress  and  roast  whole. 
Barbottes    en    casserole   (Fr.).     Stewed  eel-pout   (Eng.).      En  casserole  also 

denotes  a  special  process  of  cooking  in  a  fireproof  earthenware  pan. 
Batons  royaux  (Ff.).    Small  patties  of  minced  chicken  or  game  :  the  favourite 

dish  of  Charles  XII.  of  France. 

Batterie  de  cuisine  (Fr.).     A  complete  set  of  cooking  utensils  and  apparatus. 
Bavaroise  (Fr.).     Bavarian  cream.     A  term  applied  to  creams,  but  incorrectly 

used  unless  custard  forms  their  base. 
BSarnaise  (Fr.).     A  word  much  used  in  cookery  for  a  rich  white  herb  sauce. 

It  is  derived  from  Beam,  one  of  the  provinces  into  which  France  was 

formerly  divided,    its   chief   town,  Pau,   was    the  birthplace  of  King 

Henry  IV,  a  great  gourmand. 

B6chamel  (Fr.).     French  white  sauce.     Recognized  as  one  of  the  four  foun- 
dation sauces.     It  is  supposed   to   take  its  name  from  the  Marquis 

de  Bechamel,   an  excellent  chef,  who  acted  as  steward  in  the  service 

of  King  Louis  XIV. 

Beignets  (Fr.).  Fritters  (Eng.).     Also  a  kind  of  pancake,  fried  in  deep  fat. 
Blanquette  (Fr.).     A  white  fricassee  or  stew,  usually  made  of  veal  or  fowl, 

with  a  white  sauce  enriched  with  cream  or  egg-yolks. 
Bombe  (Fr.).     An  iced  pudding  filled  with  a  rich  custard  of  fruit  cream, 

shape  of  a  bomb. 

Bon  gout  (Fr.).     Highly  flavoured  dishes  and  sauces.     Good  taste. 
Bordelaise  (a  la)  (Ff.).     Name  of  a  French  sauce  (brown),  in  which  Bordeaux 

or  Burgundy  forms  one  of  the  ingredients.     Also  a  garnish. 
BouehSes  (Fr.).     "  A  mouthful."     Small  puff  paste  patties  (petits  pates). 
Boullle  a  Baisse    (Fr.).     A    kind    of    fish     stew,  very   popular    in    France. 
Thackeray  celebrated  its  virtues  in  his  ballad,  which  begins : 
"  This  Bouille  a  baisse,  a  noble  dish  is, 

A  sort  of  soup,  a  broth,  or  stew ; 
A  hotel -potch  of  all  kinds  of  fishes, 

That  Greenwich  never  could  outdo,"  etc. 
Bouilli  (Fr.).     Fresh  boiled  beef  or  other  meat,  but  generally  speaking  boiled 

beef  is  understood  by  the  term. 
Bouillie   (Fr.).     Boiled  fresh  beef  with  vegetable  garnish.     A  French  dish 

resembling  Hasty  Pudding. 

Bouillon  (Fr.).     Broth  or  stock  made  of  veal,  beef,  or  chicken. 
Bouquet  garni  (Fr.).     Parsley,   thyme,  and  bay-leaves  tied    up  in  a  small 

bunch ;   used  to  impart  a  rich  flavour  to  stews,  sauces,  etc. 
Brioche  (Fr.).    A  light  French  yeast  cake,  similar  to  Bath  buns.    The  favourite 

French  breakfast  bun,  eaten  hot  with  coffee  or  tea. 
Brioche  (&  la).     Roasted  in  front  of  the  fire  on  a  spit  or  skewer. 
Buisson  (Ff.).     A  garnish  consisting  of  small  groups  of  shrimps,  crayfish,  etc. 

Also  applied  to  a  method  of  twisting  up  pastry  to  a  point. 

Cabillaud   farci   (Fr.).     Stuffed  codfish. 

Cafe"  Vierge  (Fr.).     An  infusion  of  the  whole  coffee  beans.     Pure  coffee. 

Callipash.     The  fatty  gelatinous  substance  close  to  the  upper  shell  of  a  turtle. 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TERMS  1655 

Callipee.     The  glutinous  meat  found  in  the  under  part  of  a  turtle's  uudershell, 
Canap6s.     Small  shapes  of  fried  or  toasted  bread  upon  which  savouries,  etc., 

are  served.     The  word  means  "sofa." 
Canard  roti  (Fr.).     Roast  duck  (Eng.). 
Canard  sauvage  (Fr.).     Wild  duck  (Eng.). 
Cane  ton  roti  (Fr.).     Roast  duckling  (Eng.). 
Cannelons  (Fr.)  or    Canelons.     Small   rolls  of  pastry  or  rice    stuffed  with 

minced  meat,  jam,  cream,  etc. 

Capilotade  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  hashed  game  or  chicken. 
Capon  (Eng.).     Chapon  (Fr.).     A  castrated  male  chicken  or  fowl. 
Caramel  (Fr.).     A  substance  made  by  boiling  sugar  to  a  dark  brown,  used  for 

coating  moulds  and  for  liquid  colouring. 
Carcasse  (Fr.).     Carcass  (Eng.).     The  body  of  an  animal ;     the  bones  of 

poultry  or  game. 
Carde  a  la  moelle  (Fr.).     Pieces  of  marrow  braised  with  bacon.     Served  with 

Gardes  Puree. 

Cardon  (Fr.).     Cardoon  (Eng.).     A  vegetable  of  the  celery  tribe. 
Carmin  or  Carmine.     Crimson  colouring  used  in  confectionery,  etc. 
Carpentras  (a  la)  (Fr.).    A  surname  for  dishes  flavoured  or  garnished  with 

truffles.     Carpentras,    like    Perigord,    is   a    district  where  truffles  of 

excellent  flavour  and  size  grow  largely. 
Carte  du  Jour  (la)  (Fr.).      The  bill  of  fare  for  the  day,  showing  the  price 

of  each  dish. 
Casserole  (Fr.).     A  copper  stewpan.     When  used  in  menus  it  indicates  the 

case  of  rice,  baked  paste  crust  or  macaroni,  filled  with  minced  meat, 

game  puree,  etc. 

Caviar  (Fr.).     Caviare  (Eng.).     The  salted  roe  of  the  sturgeon  or  sterlet  fish. 
Celestine.     A  monk  so  named  after  Pope  Cclestin.     A  garnish  for  clear  soup, 

consisting  of  fine  strips  of  fried  pancakes.     A  la  Celestine  (Fr.),  from 

the  Latin  coelestis  (heavenly).     Several  dishes  are  so  named. 
Charcuterie    (Fr.).      "Roughly    slashed";    in    a   culinary    sense    the    word 

denotes   "  pretty   tiny  kickshaws  "   of  pork,   which  are  prepared  in 

many  different  fashions.     Black  pudding,  pig's  feet  truffled,  smoked 

pig's  ear  with  truffles,  Nancy  chitterlings,  saveloy,  pig's  liver,  are  all 

items  of  charcuterie. 
Charlotte  (Fr.).     A  corruption  of  the  old  English  word  Charlyt,  "a  dish  of 

custard."     Charlotte  russe    and    apple   charlotte    consist    usually    of 

thin  slices  of  bread  or  biscuits,   steeped  in  clarified  butter  or  sugar, 

arranged  in  plain  moulds    in  a  symmetrical  •  order,  and    afterwards 

garnished  with  cream,  fruit,  or  preserve. 
Chartreuse.     Originally  a  preparation  consisting  of  vegetables  only,  arranged 

in  a  plain  mould.     Now  the  term  is  applied  to  fruit  set  in  jelly,  and 

moulded  game,  poultry,  etc. 

Chateaubriand.     Name  of  Viscount  Francois  Auguste,  a  great  French  gour- 
mand, 1769-1848.     A  favourite  dish  of  fillet  steak  is  called  after  him. 
Chaudfroid  (Fr.).     A  cold  entree  ;   a  sauce  used  for  masking  cold  fish,  game, 

poultry,  etc. 

Chaussons  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  French  round  pie  filled  with  jam. 
Chevreuse  (Fr.).     Small  goose  liver  tartlets. 
Chinois  (Fr.).     A  pointed  strainer  with  very  fine  holes,  used  for    straining 

soups,  sauces,  and  gravies.     A  Chinese  fruit. 
Chipolata  (It.).     Small  Italian  sausages.     It  takes  its  origin  from  an  Italian 

ragout.     This  name  is  also  given  to  dishes  which  contain  an  addition 

of  Italian  sausages,  or  a  kind  of  mixed  minced  meat  with  which  they 

are  served. 
Choucroute  (Fr.).    Sauerkraut    (Ger.).      A   kind    of  pickled    cabbage;    the 

n.i.  tit>nnl  dish  of  Germany. 


1656  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Chow-chow.     Name  of  a  kind  of  pickle  consisting  of  a  combination  of  various 

vegetables,  such  as  cauliflower  buds,  button  onions,  gherkins,  French 

beans,  and  tiny  carrots.     These  are  preserved  in  a  kind  of  mustard 

sauce,  seasoned  with  strongly  flavoured  aromatic  spices. 
Chowder  (Eng.).     A  dish  of  American  origin.     It  consists  of  boiled  pickled 

pork  cut  in  slices,  fried  onions,  slices  of  turbot  or  other  fish,  and  mashed 

potatoes,  all  placed  alternately  in  a  stewpan,  seasoned  with  spices  and 

herbs,  claret  and  ketchup,  and  simmered. 
Ciboulette  (Fr.).     Small  green  onions,  chives. 
Citronn6  (Fr.).     Anything  which  has  the  taste  or  flavour  of  lemon. 
Clouter  (Fr.).     To  insert  nail-shaped  pieces  of  truffle,  bacon,  or  tongue  into 

meat  or  poultry.     The  holes  to  receive  them  are  made  by  means  of  a 

skewer. 
Cochenille  (Fr.)  (Cochineal).     A  liquid  colouring  substance,  used  for  colouring 

creams,   sauces,   icing,   etc.     It   is  obtained   from  insects  known   as 

coccus,  indigenous  to  Mexico  and  Guatemala.     The  insects  are  dried 

in  an  oven  heated  to  150°  Fahr.     It  requires  70,000  insects  to  produce 

a  pound  of  dye. 

Cochin  de  lait  (Fr.).     Sucking  pig  (Eng.). 
Colbert  (Fr.).     A  French  clear  soup  and  other  dishes,  named  after  John 

Baptiste  Colbert,  a  clever  statesman  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV  of 

France,   1619-1683. 
Compiegne   (Fr.).     A  light  yeast   cake  with  crystallized  fruit.     Also  name 

of  a  famous  French  castle  built  by   St.  Louis  and  rebuilt  by  Louis 

XIV  of  France.     Joan  of  Arc  was  taken  prisoner  here  by  the  English, 

1430. 
Compote  (Fr.).     Stew    of  small    birds.     Fruit  or    vegetables   stewed   and 

daintily  dressed. 

Concasser  (Fr.).  Coarsely  pounded. 
Cond6.     Name  of  an  old  French  family.     Prince  Louis  de  Conde  (1621-1687) 

was  a  famous  field-marshal.     Several  soups  and   entrees,   of  which 

rice  forms  an  essential  part,  are  styled  "  a  la  Conde." 
Confiture  (Fr.).     Fruit  jams.     Also  sweetmeats  of  sugar  and  fruits.     Fruit 

pastes. 
Consomme.     Clear  gravy  soup.     The  clarified  liquor  in  which  meat  or  poultry 

has  been  boiled,  or  the  liquor  from  the  stock  pot  clarified. 
Contiser  (Fr.).     To  insert  truffles  into  fillets  of  meat  or  fish. 
Cordon  (Fr.).     A  cord  or  ribbon  bestowed  as  a  badge  of  honour. 
Cordon   Bleu   (Fr.).     An   ancient   culinary   distinction   bestowed   on   skilful 

female  cooks  in  France  since  the  time  of  Louis  XV.     It  consists  of  a 

rosette  made  of  dark  blue  ribbon. 
Cordon  Rouge.     Name  of  culinary  distinction,  granted  by  an  English  society 

of  the  same  title  to  skilful  cooks  of  both  sexes,  and  to  others  who  are 

celebrated  for  the  invention  of  valuable  articles  of  food  or  drink.     The 

badge  of  the  Order  consists  of  a  modelled  white  heart  cherry,  suspended 

by  a  cherry-red  ribbon. 
Cote  (Fr.).     A  rib  slice  of  beef  or  veal.     The  word  cdtelette  is  derived  from 

cdte,  and  means  a  piece  of  meat  with  the  portion  of  the  rib  attached. 
Cdtelettes  (Fr.).     Cutlets.     Small  slices  of  meat  cut  from  the  neck  of  veal, 

mutton,  lamb,  or  pork.     Also  thin  slices  of  meat  from  other  parts. 
Cou-de-gin  de  modene  (Fr.).     Name  of  a  special  kind  of  Italian  sausage. 
Couglofl  (Fr.).     Kugelhopf  (Ger.).     A  German  cake  ;    a  kind  of  rich  dough 

cake. 
Coulibriac.     Name  of  a  Russian  dish — a  kind  of  fish-cake  mixture  wrapped 

up  in  Brioche  paste  and  baked. 
Coulis  (Fr.).     A  rich  savoury  stock  sauce ;  German  grundsauce,  i.e.  bottom 

sauce  below  the  fat,  Jean  sauce  of  fi  bruise  or  blanc. 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TERMS  1657 

Court-Bouillon  (Fr.).  Name  given  to  a  broth  in  which  fish  has  been  boiled  ; 
a  highly  seasoned  fish  stock  and  stew. 

Crapaudine  (Fr.).  A  grating  gridiron  ;  hence  "  mettre  a  la  crapaudine," 
to  grill,  e.g.  pigeons.  Gridiron.  Meaning  browned  or  grilled  over, 
or  in  front  of  a  fire. 

Craquelins  (Fr.).     Cracknels  (Eng.).     Milk  biscuits. 

Cr6cy,  Potage  a  la  (Fr.).  Crecy  or  carrot  soup  (Eng.).  A  vegetable  puree 
said  to  have  been  invented  by  Baron  Brisse.  Dishes  named  "  a  la 
Crecy  "  are  generally  connected  with  carrots  in  the  form  of  a  puree. 

Crepes  (Fr.).     French  pancakes  (Eng.). 

Cretes  (Fr.).     Giblets  of  poultry  or  game. 

Croquantes  (Fr.).  A  transparent  mixture  of  various  kinds  of  fruit  and  boiled 
sugar. 

Croquants.  Confections  giving  the  sound  of  crunching  or  cracking  between 
the  teeth. 

Croque  en  Bouche  (Fr.).  Large  set  pieces  for  suppers  or  dinners,  such  as 
nougat,  iced  cakes,  fruits,  covered  with  boiled  sugar  to  give  them  a 
brilliant  appearance.  The  real  meaning  of  the  word  is  "  crackle  in 
the  mouth." 

Croquettes  (Fr.).  Savoury  mince  of  fowl,  meat  or  fish,  prepared  with  sauce 
to  bind,  variously  shaped  ;  generally  egged,  crumbed,  and  fried  crisp. 

Croustades  (Fr.).  Shapes  of  fried  bread,  rice  or  pastry,  in  which  various 
mixtures  are  served. 

Croutes.  Blocks  or  shapes  of  fried  bread,  used  as  a  basis  for  dressing  salmis, 
whole  birds,  etc. 

Croute-au-pot.  Clear  soup  garnished  with  small  crisply-baked  slices  of 
bread. 

Croutons  (Fr.).  Sippets  of  fried  or  toasted  bread  cut  into  dice  shapes  and 
fried,  used  for  garnishing  dishes. 

Cuilleres  do  cuisine  (Fr.)  are  wooden  spoons.  The  use  of  wooden  spoons  is 
strongly  recommended  instead  of  metal  spoons,  especially  for  stirring 
sauces.  The  latter  often  contain  acids  which  produce  a  black  colour. 

Cuisine  (Fr.).  Kitchen,  cookery.  Faire  la  cuisine,  to  cook  or  to  dress  vic- 
tuals. 

Cuissot.  The  haunch.  Cuissot  de  veau,  cuissot  de  cochon,  cuissot  de  boeuf. 
etc. 

Culinaire  (Fr.).  This  term  is  applied  to  anything  connected  with  the  kitchen 
or  the  art  of  cooking.  A  good  cook  is  called  "  un  artiste  culinaire." 

Culotte.     Aitchbone  of  beef. 

Curasao  (Fr.).  A  liqueur  prepared  from  the  yellow  part  of  the  rind  of  a 
peculiar  kind  of  bitter  orange  grown  in  the  island  of  Cura9ao,  S.Amer- 
ica, whence  its  name.  Used  for  flavouring  creams,  jellies,  ices,  etc. 

Dampfnudeln    (Ger.)    (literally   steam-nudels).     Ribbon    macaroni    steamed. 

A  sweet  dish  popular  in  Germany. 
Dariole  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  small  entree    pate,  composed  of  a  compound   of 

forcemeat  or  mince,  baked  or  steamed  in  small  moulds.     Certain  small 

tarts  are  called  by  this  name.     The  name  usually  applies  to  the  shape 

of  the  moulds.     Also  some  kinds  of  cheese-cakes  are  called  darioles. 

Kettner    asserts   that    a    dariole    means    something    made    of    milk. 

Origin  of  the  word  unknown. 

Darne  (Fr.).     The  middle  cut  of  large  fish,  salmon  or  cod. 
D'Artois  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  French  pastry  (puff  paste  and  jam). 
Daub  or  Daube  (Fr.).     Meats  or  poultry  stewed,  larded. 
Daubiere  (Fr.).     An  oval-shaped  stewpan,  in  which  meats  or  birds  are  to  be 

daubed  or  stewed. 
Dauphine  (Fr.).     A  style  of  garnish  ;    also  name  of  a  kind  of  dough-nuts, 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

beignets,  etc.  A  kind  of  potato  croquette.  Known  in  Germany 
as  Berliner  Pfannkuchen. 

De*brider  (Fr.).  To  untruss  ;  to  remove  the  strings  or  skewers  from  a  piece 
of  meat  or  bird. 

D6graisser  (Fr.).     To  skim  off  fat  or  grease  from  soups,  etc. 

Desosser  (Fr.).     To  bone  ;    to  remove  the  bones  from  meat,  poultry,  or  game. 

Dhall  or  Dholl.  A  kind  of  pulse  much  used  in  India  for  kedgeree,  or  as  a  kind 
of  porridge.  In  England  it  is  best  represented  by  split  peas  or  lentils. 

Diable  (Fr..).  "  Devil."  The  term  is  applied  to  dishes  with  sharp  and  hot 
seasoning. 

Diner  (Fr.).  Dinner  (Eng.).  "  L'heure  du  diner,"  dinner  hour,  in  Henry  VIII's 
time  was  at  i  i  a.m. 

Dormant  or  Surtout  de  table  (Fr.).  Decorative  objects  which  are  left  on  the 
table  to  the  end  of  a  meal. 

Dorure  or  Dorer  (Fr.).  Beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  used  for  brushing  over  pastry, 
etc. 

Drag£es  (Fr.).  Sugar  plum  (Eng.).  A  kind  of  sweetmeat  made  of  fruits, 
small  pieces  of  rinds  or  aromatic  roots,  covered  wi  th  a  coating  of  icing. 

Dunelm.  A  dish  of  braised  mutton  or  veal,  originating  from  Durham,  the 
Roman  name  of  which  was  Dunelm. 

Duxelles  or  D'Uxelles  (Fr.).  A  name  given  to  a  mixture  of  chopped  mush- 
rooms, shallots,  parsley,  etc.  added  to  sauce.  Name  of  a  French 
marquis,  a  great  gourmand  and  gastronomer,  who  lived  at  the  end 
of  the  seventeenth  century.  Author  of  an  excellent  book  on  French 
cookery.  A  savoury  puree  (mince)  and  a  sauce  are  known  by 
this  name. 

Echauder  (Fr.).  To  steep  in  boiling  water.  This  is  often  done  with  fowls 
or  game,  to  facilitate  the  removing  of  the  feathers  or  hair. 

Eclair  (Fr.).     A  French  pastry  filled  with  cream  or  custard. 

Eclanche  (Fr.).     Shoulder  of  mutton. 

Eeossaise  (a  1').     Scotch  style. 

Eminc6  (Fr.).     Minced  ;  finely  sliced  or  shredded. 

Emonder  (Fr.).  To  blanch  almonds.  When  almonds  are  steeped  in  boiling 
water  in  order  to  peel  them,  the  French  say  "  on  les  emonde." 

En  couronne.     Anything  dished  in  the  shape  of  a  crown. 

Entr6e  (Fr.).  A  course  of  dishes,  or  corner  dish  for  the  first  course  ;  the 
conventional  term  for  hot  or  cold  side  dishes.  Also  defined  as  dishes 
generally  served  with  a  sauce. 

Entremets  (Fr.).  Dainty  dishes  of  vegetables  or  hot  and  cold  sweets  and 
after-dinner  savouries  served  as  second  course. 

Epigrammes  (Fr.).  "  A  short  .  pointed  poem."  Used  as  a  culinary 
term  for  small  fillets  of  poultry  and  game,  and  the  breast  of  lamb  or 
mutton  braised  and  divided  into  small  portions,  egged,  crumbed  and 
fried.  Also  denned  as  a  dish  of  alternate  cutlets  of  the  neck  and 
breast. 

Escalopes  (Fr.).  Thin  round  steaks  of  veal  called  "  collops."  Obsolete 
cascalope,  meaning  thin  slices  of  any  kind  of  meat,  usually  egged, 
crumbed  and  fried.  Fish,  meat,  etc.,  served  in  scallop  shells. 

Escargot  (Fr.).     The  edible  vineyard  snail. 

Estouflade  (Fr.)  or  Etuv6e.  A  term  used  to  denote  a  way  of  cooking 
meats,  etc.,  slowly  in  a  covered  stewpan. 

Faire  Revenir  (Fr.).  A  term  often  used  in  French  cookery  books  ;  meaning  to 
partially  fry  meat  or  vegetables,  slightly  browning  without  actually 
cooking  them. 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TKRMS 

Fanchonnettes  (Fr.).     Small  custard  tartlets  masked  with  meringue. 

Farce  (Fr.).  Forcemeat  or  stuffing,  from  the  Latin  word  farsum,  to  fill,  to 
stuff.  From  this  is  derived  the  word  farcimen,  a  sausage.  The 
term  is  applied  to  herb  preparations  of  which  meat  forms  no  part, 
as  well  as  forcemeats  consisting  principally  of  meat. 

Faubonne  (Fr.).     A  vegetable  puree  soup  seasoned  with  savoury  herbs. 

Faux  (Fr.)  (false).     Used  in  "  potage  a  la  fausse  tortue  "  (mock  turtle  soup). 

F6cule  (Fr.).     A  fine  flour  used  for  binding  soups  and  sauces. 

Fermiere  (£  la)  (Fr.).  Farmhouse  style.  Denotes  a  garnish  consisting  of 
cooked  carrots,  lettuce,  cauliflower,  and  small  round  fried  pot  r 

Feuilletage  (Fr.).     Puff  paste;  leafy,  flaky. 

Fidelini  (It.).     A  kind  of  straight  vermicelli  paste. 

Filet  (Fr.).  Fillet.  The  under -cut  of  a  loin  of  beef,  mutton,  veal,  pork  and 
game.  Boned  breasts  of  poultry,  birds,  and  the  boned  sides  ..i 
fish  also  are  called  fillets. 

Financiere  (Fr.).  Name  of  a  very  rich  ragout  used  in  entrees  consisting 
of  cocks'  combs,  truffles,  etc. 

Fines-herbes  (Fr.).  A  combination  of  finely  chopped  fresh  herbs,  such  as 
parsley,  tarragon,  chervil  and  other  kitchen  herbs;  mostly  used  in 
omelets  and  sauces. 

Flamande  (a  la).  (Fr.)  Flemish  style.  A  garnish  consisting  of  braised 
savoy  cabbage  and  a  macedoine  of  vegeta: 

Flamber  (Fr.).  To  singe  poultry  or  game.  To  cover  a  pudding  or  omelet 
with  spirit  and  set  it  alight. 

Fleurons  (Fr.).  Small  half-moon  shapes  of  puff  paste,  baked,  used  for  gar- 
nishing entrees. 

Flummery  (Eng.).  Cold  sweet  dish,  mainly  of  cereals,  originally  of  oatmeal 
set  in  a  mould  and  turned  out.  To  be  eaten  with  \\ine.  cider,  milk 
or  a  compound  sauce.  Dutch  flummery  is  made  with  isinglass,  yolks 
and  flavourings;  Spanish  flummery,  of  ueain.  rice  flour,  cinnamon 
and  sugar ;  to  be  eaten  with  sweet 

Foie-gras  (Fr.).     Fat  goose  liver. 

Foie  de  veau  (Fr.).     Calf's  liver. 

Foncer  (Fr.).     To  line  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  with  slices  of  ham  or  bacon. 

Fond  (Fr.).     Strong  gravy,  meat,  stock;  bottom,  as  in  "  fond  d'artichaut." 

Fondant  (Fr.).     Melting.     A  soft  kind  of  icing  ;  dessert    bon-bons. 

Fondue  (Fr.).     A  preparation  of  melted  ,  uinaily   ni.ulr  in  Sun/er- 

land.     A  savoury. 

Fouette"e  (Fr.).     Whipped  with  the  whisk. 

Fourr6  (Fr.).     Coated  with  sugar,  cream,  etc. 

Fraises  (Fr.).     Strawberries. 

Framboises  (Fr.).     Raspberries. 

Franpaise  (d  la)  (Fr.).     In  a  manner  peculiar  to  France. 

Frangipane.     A  substitute  for  custards  made  •  :,ilk,  some  flour,  with 

an  addition  of  lemon-peel,  rum,  brandy,  vanilla,  etc.,  to  flavour. 

Frapper  (Fr.).  To  place  on  ice.  Ice  (used  when  cooling  champagne).  To 
beat  or  strike. 

Fricandeau  (Fr.).     Braised  larded  tilU-t  of  veal.     This  dish  is  supposed  to  have 
been  invented  by  Jean  de  Careme,  who  was  the  direct  ance.stor  of  the* 
famous  Careme.     He  was  cook  to  Pope  Leo  X.     This  pontiff  jx>s 
magnificent  tastes;    he  fostered    the  genius  of  Raphael  the   painter. 
and  encouraged  also  the  genius  which  could  discover  a  iricamleau. 

Fricandelles  (Fr.).     Small  thin  braised  steaks  of  veal  or  game. 

Fricandines  (Fr.).  Small  round  patties  containing  mince.  Something 
crisply  fried,  such  as  rissoles  and  croquet; 

FricassSe  (Fr.)-     Fricasseed.     The  \vonl  comes  from  the  English  freak,  brisk, 
•v.      A    white   stew  of  chicken   or   veal. 

Frit  (Fr.).      Fried  in  shallow  or  deep   tat. 


1660  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Frittata  (It.).  An  Italian  dish  ;    a  kind  of  rolled  pancake  crumbed  and  fried 

in  fat. 
Friture  (Fr.).     This  word  has  two  significations  ;   it  applies  to  the  fat,  which 

may  be  oil,    lard    or    dripping    in    which    articles    are    fried.     It  is 

also  applied  to  anything  that  has  been  fried,  such  as  egged  and  crumbed 

fried  fish,  fried  potatoes;  croquettes  or  rissoles    being  pre-eminently 

popular  under  this  term. 
Fromage  glac6  (Fr.).     A  dish  of  ice-cream  in  a  cheese-like  shape,  or  anything 

glazed  with  cheese. 
Fumet  (Fr.).     The  flavour  or  essence  of  game,  fish,  or  any  highly  flavoured 

concentrated  substance  used  to  impart  a  rich  flavour  to  certain  dishes. 

Galantine  (Fr.).  A  dish  of  white  meat,  rolled,  served  cold.  A  fowl  or  breast 
of  veal,  boned  and  stuffed  with  farce,  tongue,  truffle,  etc. 

Galette  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  French  pastry.     A  species  of  light  breakfast  roll. 

Galimafr6  (Fr.).  A  kind  of  ragout  made  of  cold  meat.  Origin  of  the  word 
unknown. 

Gargotage  (Fr.).     Badly  dressed  victuals. 

Gastronomie  (Fr.).  Gastronomy.  The  art  of  good  living.  Strictly  speak- 
ing, the  science  of  life,  by  which  we  discover  what  food, under  various 
circumstances,  is  the  most  suitable ;  it  also  teaches  us  the  effect  it 
bears  upon  man  individually  or  a  nation. — "  The  Autocrat  of  the 
Dinner  Table." 

Gateau  (Fr.).  A  round  flat  cake,  generally  decorated.  Essentially  a  cake 
made  of  well-beaten  butter  dough. 

Gaulre  (Fr.).  A  thin  wafer  -like  biscuit  ;  wafer;  baked  or  fried  in  specially 
constructed  gaufre  moulds.  These  consist  of  two  opposed  plates,  and 
are  worked  by  handles. 

Gel6e  (Fr.).  Jelly.  Inspissated  juice  of  fruit  or  meat.  "En  gelee,"  set 
very  thinly  in  sweet  or  savoury  jelly. 

Genevoise  (a  la)  (Fr.).     Geneva  style. 

Genievre  (Fr.).  Juniper  berry.  A  blue-black  berry,  possessing  a  peculiar 
aromatic  flavour,  used  as  a  flavouring  condiment  in  mirepoix,  marin- 
ades, etc.  ;  also  used  in  syrups  and  liqueurs. 

Genoise  (Fr..).  Genoese  style.  Also  the  name  of  a  rich  sponge  cake.  A 
brown  fish  sauce. 

Ghee.  An  Indian  word  for  clarified  butter.  Indian  butter  is  generally  pre- 
pared from  buffaloes'  milk. 

Gibier  (Fr.).     Game.     Animals  taken  in  the  chase. 

Gibolette  (Fr.).  A  rabbit  stew  dressed  with  butter,  onions  and  olive-shaped 
potatoes. 

Gigot  a  sept  heures,  or  Gigot  a  la  cuillere  (Fr.).  A  leg  of  mutton  which  has 
been  cooked  for  seven  hours,  when  it  may  be  carved  with  a  spoon. 

Gimblettes  (Fr.).  A  kind  of  French  pastry,  resembling  and  prepared  simi- 
larly to  croque  en  bouche. 

Gitana  (Sp.).  Signifies  a  garnish  of  which  Spanish  onions  form  the  chief 
part.  Gipsy  fashion. 

Glac6  (Fr.).     Frozen,  iced  or  glazed  ;   coated  or  masked  with  glaze. 

Glace  de  Sucre  (Fr.).     (Glace  royale).     Icing  sugar  ;    very  fine  dust  sugar. 

Glace  de  viande  (Fr.).    Meat  glaze. 

Glacer  (Fr.).     To  glaze. 

Glasure  or  glaze.     A  sugar  icing. 

Glaze  (Eng.).  Stock  or  gravy  reduced  to  the  thickness  of  jelly  ;  used  for 
glazing  meats,  etc.,  to  improve  their  appearance.  Well-made  glaze 
adheres  firmly  to  the  meat.  Used  also  for  strengthening  soups  and  sauces. 

Gnocchi  (It.).  A  light  savoury  dough,  boiled  and  served  with  grated  Par 
mesan  cheese  (Italian  dish). 

Godiveau  (Fr.).  Rich  veal  forcemeat.  Quenelles.  Used  as  a  garnish  almost 
exclusively. 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TERMS  1661 

Goulash  or  Gulash.  A  Hungarian  dish.  Finely  sliced  beef  or  veal  stew, 
highly  seasoned  with  paprika  (a  kind  of  mild  capsicum  pepper). 

Gourmand  (Fr.).     An  epicure  ;   a  ravenous  eater  ;    a  glutton. 

Gourmet  (Fr.).  A  judge  of  good  living  ;  one  who  values  and  enjoys  good 
eating  ;  connoisseur  in  wine. 

Gout  (Fr.).  Taste  or  savour.  Relish,  to  perceive  by  the  tongue  ;  the  sense 
of  tasting  ;  an  intellectual  relish. 

Gouter  (Fr.).     An  afternoon  meal  ;   a  meat  tea.     To  taste,  to  relish. 

Gramolata  (It.)      A  kind  of  half-frozen  lemon.     Water-ice  served  in  glasses. 

Gras  (au)  (Fr.).     Dressed  with  rich  meat  gravy. 

Gratin  (au)  (Fr.).  A  term  applied  to  certain  dishes  prepared  with  sauce, 
garnish  and  breadcrumbs,  and  baked  brown  in  the  oven  or  under  a 
salamander  ;  served  in  the  dish  on  which  baked. 

Gratiner  (Fr.).     To  brown  the  surface  of  contents  of  a  dish. 

Grenadine  (Fr.).     Small  fillets  of  veal  or  fowl  larded  and  braised. 

Griotte  (Fr.).  A  dark-red  cherry,  called  Armenian  cherry,  suitable  for  com- 
pote and  jam. 

Groseilles  (Fr.).     Gooseberries  or  currants. 

Guin6e  pepper  (Eng.).  Poivre  de  guinee  (Fr.).  A  kind  of  cayenne,  prepared 
from  the  seeds  of  the  ripe  chilli  or  capsicum  annum.  Also  called 
chilli  pepper.  Large  quantities  of  this  aromatic  plant  are  grown  in 
Cayenne,  in  South  America.  The  name  of  Guinee  pepper  is  also  given 
to  the  ground  seeds  of  dried  fruit  of  certain  plants  of  the  same  kind  as 
capsicums,  all  of  which  are  of  a  pungent  character,  and  are  products 
of  West  Africa. 

Guisado  (Sp.).  A  Spanish  dish,  mostly  prepared  with  meat  and  potatoes 
stewed  together. 

Gumbo.  The  American  term  for  okra  soup,  or  other  preparations  from 
okra,  gumbo  being  the  name  by  which  okra  is  chiefly  known  in  South 
America.  Chicken  gumbo  is  a  puree  or  soup  made  from  okra  and 
chicken. 


Hache  (Fr.).     Minced  meat,  finely  sliced  meat. 

Hacher-menu  (Fr.).     To  mince  meat  finely. 

Haggis.  A  kind  of  liver  sausage  (Scotch  dish),  from  "  Hag."  to  chop,  or 
"  Hachis,"  to  mince.  The  modern  haggis  consists  of  the  liver,  lights 
and  the  heart  of  a  sheep  finely  chopped,  mixed  with  oatmeal  and  suet, 
and  seasoning.  This  is  inserted  in  a  sheep's  paunch  and  boiled  for 
several  hours.  Robert  Burns  greatly  esteemed  this  dish,  which  was, 
it  is  said,  a  favourite  dish  of  the  Romans. 

Halaszle.     A  Hungarian  fish  stew. 

Haricots  panache*  (Fr.).  French  beans  or  string  beans  mixed  with  flageolets 
(green  kidney  beans). 

Hatelet  (Fr.).  A  small  silver  skewer  garnished  with  cut  roots,  truffles,  mush- 
rooms, aspic,  cocks'  combs,  etc.,  used  for  ornamenting  fish  and  remove 
dishes. 

Hatereau  (Fr.).     A  dish  of  sliced  liver  ;  a  ragout  popar  in  Bretagne. 

Hautboy  (Eng.).     A  species  of  strawberry. 

Hautgout  (Fr.).     Good  taste.     High  flavour  or  strong  seasoning. 

Hollandaise  (Fr.).  Dutch  style.  Name  of  a  cream-like  sauce  served  with 
fish  or  vegetables. 

Horly.  See  Orly. 

Hors  d'oeuvres  (Fr.).  Small  side  dishes,  served  cold,  generally  before  the 
soup,  in  order  to  create  an  appetite.  They  consist  of  anchovies, 
caviare,  sardines  and  other  dainty  relishes. " 

Hure  (Fr.).     Boar  or  pig's  head  ;   also  head  and  shoulders  of  some  large  fish. 

Hure  de  sanglier  (Fr.),     Wild  boar'^  head. 


1662  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Indienne  (a  1')  (Fr.).     Indian  style,  peculiar  to  India. 

Irlandaise  (a  1')  (Fr.).  Irish  style.  This  term  is  applied  to  dishes  containing 
potatoes  in  some  form,  either  introduced  during  the  process  of  cook- 
ing, or  else  served  round  a  dish  to  form  its  garnish. 


Jambon  (Fr.).     Ham.     Name  given  to  the  hind  leg  of  pork,  which  is  salted 

and  cured  or  smoked. 
Jambonneau  (Fr.).     A  very  small  ham. 
Jardiniere  (Fr.).     A  garnish  of  mixed  spring  vegetables  ;    vegetables  stewed 

down  in  their  own  sauce. 
Jaune- Mange  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  egg  jelly  made  from  gelatine,  white  wine, 

lemons,  sugar  and  eggs.     It  is  so  called  on  account  of  its  yellow  colour. 
Jernik-Kalwasi.    A  Russian  dish,  consisting  of  semolina,  milk  and  honey. 
Julep.     Ancient   Arabian   name   for   a   cooling   drink    containing   mucilage, 

opium,  etc.     An  American  drink. 
Julienne  (Fr.).     Name  of  a  vegetable  clear  soup,  first  made   in   1875   by  a 

cook  named  Jean  Julien  ;    also  a  garnish  consisting  of  fine  strips  of 

mixed  vegetables. 

Junket  (Eng.).     From  the  Latin  word  juncus.     Name  of  a  favourite  Devon- 
shire dish,  which  consists  of  milk  turned  with  rennet,  double  cream, 

sugar  and  ground  cinnamon  or  other  flavouring.     Usually  served  with 

fruit,  fresh  or  preserved. 
Jus  (Fr.).     Juice,  broth,  gravy.     The  juice  of  cooked  meats  seasoned,  but 

without  any  liaison  (thickening). 


Kabobs  (Khubab)  or  Kebobs.  Name  of  a  dish  served  in  India  and  Turkey, 
consisting  of  small  slices  of  mutton  run  on  skewers,  and  grilled  or  braised. 

Kagne  (Fr.).     A  sort  of  vermicelli. 

Kaimak.     A  Russian  sweet,  similar  to  cream  custard. 

Kari.     The  translation  in  French  or  German  of  the  English  word  "  curry." 

Kebobs.     See  Kabobs. 

Kedgeree  (Kadgiori,  Kitchri,  or  Kegeree).  An  Indian  dish  of  fish  and  rice 
curried.  The  name  is  taken  from  Khichri,  an  Indian  dish,  consisting 
of  boiled  or  salt  fish,  eggs  and  rice,  garnished  with  hard-boiled  eggs, 
strips  of  chilli,  etc. 

Kelkel  (Ger.).     A  slice  of  sole  dried  and  salted. 

Kickshaw  (Eng.).  Espice  de  ragout  or  charcuterie  (Fr.).  This  is  a  name 
used  in  cookery  which  may  be  given  to  any  dish  prepared  with  extra- 
ordinary nicety  ;  but  it  is  usually  applied  to  such  things  as  are  regarded 
luxuries  by  the  rich. 

Kldsse  (Ger.).  German  dish,  composed  of  small  light  balls  boiled  in  water, 
milk  or  gravy.  They  are  made  of  bread,  potatoes,  rice  and  eggs,  and 
are  varied  with  meat,  fish  or  liver. 

Knodel  (Ger.).     Bavarian  name  for  a  kind  of  small  dumpling. 

Koofthas.  Name  of  an  Indian  dish  ;  a  mince  of  meat  or  fowl  curried,  shaped 
into  balls  and  fried. 

Kromeskis  (Kromeskys,  Cromeskis  or  Kromouskys).  A  Polish  word,  having 
the  same  meaning  as  croquette  in  French.  Balls  or  rolls  of  forcemeat 
or  of  minced  chicken  and  ham,  wrapped  in  caul  or  bacon,  braised  or 
crumbed,  or  else  dipped  in  batter  and  fried  in  hot  fat. 

Lapins  en  accolade  (Fr.).     Brace  of  rabbits  placed  side  by  side  on  a  dish. 

Legumes  (Fr.).     Vegetables  or  plants  used  as  such. 

Levure  (Fr.).  Luting.     A  flour   and  water  paste   used   for  fastening   lids  on 

pie  dishes  in  which  game  is  preserved, 
Livournais  (d  la)  (Fr.).    Leghorn  style, 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TERMS 

Lyonnaise  (a  la)  (Fr.).  Lyonese  style.  As  a  garnish  it  generally  signifies 
that  shredded  onion  (fried) 'has  been  introduced  as  the  principal 
ingredient. 

Macaroni  (It.).  Thisisa  peculiar  paste  prepared  from  flour  and  manufactured 
into  tubes.  It  is  an  Italian  invention.  The  name  is  said  to  be  derived 
from  a  Greek  word,  meaning  the  blessed  bread,  in  allusion  to  the 
ancient  custom  of  eating  it  at  feasts  for  the  dead. 

Macaroons.  Sweet  biscuits  made  of  almonds,  sugar  and  the  white  of  eggs. 

Macedoine  (Fr.).  A  mixture  of  various  kinds  of  vegetables  or  fruits,  cut  in 
even-shaped  discs.  The  name  is  also  applied  to  a  collection  of  ripe 
fruit  imbedded  in  jelly  and  set  in  a  mould,  or  a  fruit  salad  flavoured 
with  liqueurs  and  syrup. 

MaQon  (Fr.).  A  French  wine  grown  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town  Macon. 

Madeleine  (Fr.).  Small  cakes  or  biscuits  well  known  throughout  France. 
Also  the  name  of  a  pear. 

Madere  (Fr.).  Madeira  wine.     A  Spanish  wine  very  often  used  in  cooking. 

Maigre  (au)  (Fr.).     A  dish  without  meat.     Applied  to  Lenten  dishes. 

Maintenon.     Name  of   the  Marchioness   Frangoise  d'Aubigne  ;     born 

died  1719  ;  a  great  patroness  of  cooks,  a  born  admirer  of  fine  cooking. 
Several  dishes  are  called  "  a  la  Maintenon,"  usually  signifying  some 
thing  broiled  in  a  paper  case.  The  dish  "  Cotelettes  de  ve.ui  a  l.-i 
Maintenon  "  is  said  to  have  been  invented  by  this  lady,  who  was 
Louis  XIY's  favourite,  and  did  all  in  her  power  to  tempt  the  tailing 
appetite  of  the  King  when  he  was  advanced  in 

Maitrank  (Ger.).  (May  Drink.)  A  delicious  beverage,  originally  consumed 
in  Germany — made  of  Hock  or  other  white  wine  which  is  flavoured 
with  woodruff,  lemon,  bay-leaves  and  sugar. 

Maitre  d'Hotel  (a  la)  (Fr.).  Hotel  stewards'  fashion.  The  name  of  a  flavour  - 
ing  butter,  mixed  with  chopped  parsley  and  seasoned  with  lemon- 
juice,  pepper  and  salt ;  served  on  grilled  meats.  Dishes  named  Maitre 
d'Hotel  are  usually  composed  of  food  quickly  and  plainly  prepared, 
parsley  being  the  principal  flavouv 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Sauce.     A  white  sauce  containing  chopped  parsley. 

Marabout  (Fr.).     A  very  large  coffee-pot. 

Maraschino.  Marasquin  (Fr.).  A  delicately  flavoured  white  liqueur,  dis- 
tilled from  a  species  of  cherry,  grown  in  Dalmatia,  used  for  flavouring 
jellies  and  ices. 

Marcassin  (Fr.).     Grice  (Eng.).     Young  wild  boar,  generally  cooked  whole. 

Mar6e  (Fr.).     A  fresh  seafish — i.e.,  seafish  which  is  sold  quite  fresh. 

Marinade  (Fr.).  A  preparation  of  oil,  herbs,  vinegar,  etc.,  in  which  fish  or 
meat  is  soused  or  pickled. 

Marquer  (Fr.).     To  prepare  and  arrange  in  a  stevrpan  a  piece  of  meat 
for  cooking. 

Marsala  (It.).  A  wine  similar  to  Madeira,  but  made  from  a  mixture  of  differ- 
ent grapes  ;  named  after  a  town  in  Si 

Marzipan  'Ger.).  Delicate  German  dessert  dainties  made  from  almond  pnstr. 

Masquer  (Fr.).  To  sauce  a  dish  which  is  ready  for  serving  ;  also  to  mask 
the  inside  of  a  mould  with  savoury  jelly,  chaudfmid  sauce  or  force- 
meat, when  required  for  entrees. 

Massepan  (Fr.).     A  French  dessert  pastry. 

Mat6.     A  Paraguayan   tea.     Its  real  n;r  hade    Mate;     it  consists 

of  the  powdered  leaves  of  a  South  American    species   of   holly   and 
green  shoots  of  plants.     This  beverage  has  long  been   known  to  the 
of  South  America. 

Matelote  (Fr.).  A  marine  dish  ;  a  rich  fish  stew  with  wine  and  herb 
flavouring.  Usually  prepared  from  fresh -water  fish — carp,  tench,  pike, 
eel,  etc. 


i664  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Mayonnaise  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  salad  of  fish  or  poultry,  with  a  thick  cold  sauce 

made  of  yolks  of  eggs,  oil  and  vinegar.     A  salad  sauce  or  dressing. 

The  sauce  is  said  to  have  been  invented  by  the  chef  to  the  Due  de 

Richelieu,  after  the  victory  of  Mahon  (Mahonnaise). 
Mazagran.     A  French  term  for  a  glass  of  black  coffee,  sugar  and  water. 
Mazarines  (Fr.).     Turbans.     Forcemeat  ornaments  of  fish,  poultry  or  game. 

Entrees  consisting  of  combined  fillets  of  meat  and  forcemeat. 
Menu  (Fr.).     The  bill  of  fare.     Literally  the  word  means  minute  detail  of 

courses.     A  list  of  the  dishes  which  are  to  be  served  at  a  meal.     Menus 

were  first  used  in  1541.     Pronounce  "  Menu  "  as  "  mennuu,"  so  that 

the  second  syllable  is  sounded  as  something  between  "  new  "  and  "  noo." 
Menu  rot  (Fr.).     Small  roast  birds. 
Menus  droits  (Fr.)     Pig's  ears  served  up  as  an  entree. 
Merise,  Meriser  (Fr.).     A  wild  cherry,  wild  cherry  tree.     The  Kirschwasser 

is  made  of  this  fruit. 

Meriuche  (Fr.).     Stock-fish,  haddock — dried  or  smoked. 
Mets  (Fr.).     The  meal  or  dish.     "  Mets  de  farine,"  farinaceous;    "entre- 
mets de  douceur,"  sweet ;    "  de  legumes,"  vegetable,  etc. 
Mignonette  Pepper.     Coarsely-ground  white  peppercorns.     A  form  of  com- 
minuted pepper,  which  resembles  mignonette  seed  when  sifted. 
Mijoter  (Fr.).     To  cook  slowly  ;    to  simmer  gently  over  a  small  fire. 
Millecantons  (Fr.).     Name  of  a  small  fish  of  the  whitebait  kind,  found  in  the 

Lake  of  Geneva,  cooked  in  the  same  manner  as  whitebait.     In  season 

in  July  and  August. 
Minute  (a  la)  (Fr.).     A  surname  given  to  dishes  which  are  hurriedly  prepared, 

or  anything  cooked  in  the  quickest  possible  style.     Omelets  and  grills 

come  under  this  heading. 
Mirabelles  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  small  yellow  plum,  very  sweet  and  juicy,  used 

for  compotes,  fresh  or  dried. 
Mirepoix  (Fr.).     The  foundation  preparation  of  vegetables,  herbs  and  lard, 

for  brown  soups  and  sauces  ;    also  for  braised  meats,  etc.       Name 

derived  from  the  Duke  de  Mirepoix. 
Mirlitons  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  French  pastry.     Tartlets  with  a  basis  of  puff  paste 

and  filled  with  custard  mixture. 
Miroton  (Fr.).     Thin  slices  of  meat,  the  size  of  a  five-shilling  piece,  braised, 

stewed  and  dished  up  in  a  circular  form. 
Mitonner  (Fr.).     To  simmer,  to  soak.     To  steep  and  allow  to  boil  during  a 

certain  time. 
Mdelle  de  boeuf  (Fr.).     Beef  marrow.     The  fatty  substance  in  the  hollow 

part  of  bones. 

Mont-Frigoul  (Semoule  Italienne)  (Fr.).     The  name  of  a  French  soup. 
Mortadelle   (Fr.).     A   kind   of   sausage,    largely   manufactured   in   Bologna. 
Mortifie  (Fr.).     Term  applied  to  meat  well  hung. 
Mote  or  Moti.     Name  of  an  Indian  fish  curry. 
Mouiller  (Fr.).     To  moisten.     To  add  broth,   water  or  any  other  suitable 

juice  during  the  cooking  of  meats. 
Mousse  (Fr.).     A  light  ice-cream.     Among  the  definitions  given  for  the  word 

are  :   mossy,  froth,  and  foam.    Mousse  frappec  is  a  dish  prepared  with 

whipped  cream  and  flavouring,  frozen  without  working.     Hot  puddings 

are  also  prepared  as  mousses. 

Mousseron  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  white  mushroom,  principally  used  for  ragouts. 
Mulligatawny.     An  Indian  curry  soup  ;    a  paste  made  of  curry  ;    derives  its 

name  from  two  words,  tamil  and  molegoo,  pepper  and  tunnee.     Derived 

from  an  East  Indian  word  meaning  pepper  water. 
Mure  (Fr.).     Mulberry.     Black  and  white  fruit  of  a  delicate  flavour.     Used 

for  making  jellies,  syrups  and  vinegar. 
Muscade  (Fr.).     Nutmeg  or  mace. 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TERMS  1665 

Muscat    (Fr.).     Muscadine    (Eng.).     A   wine,    also    the   grape   producing   it 

(muscadine  grape). 
Muscovado.     Name  given  to  unrefined  sugar. 

Napolitaine  (a  la)  (Fr.).     Naples  or  Neapolitan  style. 

Napper  (Fr.).     To  cover  a  dish  with  a  layer  of  thick  sauce,  jelly  or  jam. 

Naturel  (Fr.)  {au  natural).    Plain,  simple.     Plainly  and  quickly  prepared. 

Navarin  (Fr.).  A  stew  of  mutton  or  lamb.  A  kind  of  haricot  mutton.  The 
name  is  of  ancient  origin,  being  mentioned  in  one  of  the  plays  of  Sodelle 
in  the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth  century.  Turnips  form  the  prin- 
cipal garniture  of  a  navarin. 

Negus.  Name  of  a  hot  drink  composed  of  port  wine,  sugar,  nutmeg  and 
lemon-juice  ;  so-called  after  Colonel  Negus  (in  the  reign  of  Queen 
Anne). 

Neige  (Fr.).     Snow.     White  of  eggs  beaten  to  a  snow  or  a  froth. 

Nepaul  pepper.  A  red  pepper  of  the  same  character  as  cayenne  and  Guinee 
pepper,  being  a  species  of  capsicum  of  a  sweet  pungent  flavour.  It  is 
largely  grown  in  Hindustan. 

Nesselrode.  Name  of  a  pudding,  iced,  and  flavoured  with  chestnuts,  in- 
vented by  Mony,  chef  to  the  famous  Count  Nesselrode. 

Niokes  or  Niokies.  A  farinaceous  dish  prepared  with  semolina  or  Indian 
maize,  flavoured  with  grated  cheese,  cream,  etc.  Of  Russian  inven- 
tion. 

Nivernaise  (a  la)  (Fr.).     Nivernese  style. 

Noix  de  muscat  (Fr.).  Nutmeg.  The  fruit  of  the  nutmeg  tree  ;  an  aromatic 
spice. 

Noques  (Fr.).  An  Italian  farinaceous  preparation.  Small  dumplings  made 
from  flour,  milk  or  cream,  boiled  in  soup  or  salt  water,  and  served  as 
garnish. 

Norraande  (ala)(Fr.).  Normandy  style,  with  the  exception  of  a  dish  known  as 
filets  de  soles  a  la  Normande,  and  other  fish  entrees.  The  application 
of  this  name  implies  that  the  flavour  of  apple  has  in  some  form  or 
other  been  introduced  into  the  composition  of  the  dish. 

Nougat  (Fr.).  Almond  rock  candy.  A  sweetmeat  made  with  sugar,  honey, 
almonds,  pistachios,  etc. 

Nouilles  (Fr.).  Nudels.  A  German  preparation,  "  Nudeln."  It  consists 
of  a  stiff  dough  made  with  flour  and  eggs,  rolled  out  very  thinly,  cut 
up  in  thin  strips  and  boiled,  and  served  as  garnish,  or  fried  and  served 
as  a  sweet.  When  cooked  nouilles  resemble  macaroni. 

Noyau  (Fr.).  The  stone  of  a  fruit  ;  a  liqueur  flavoured  with  peach  or  necta- 
rine kernels. 

Okra.     Name  of  a  vegetable  extensively  used  in  South  America.     Used  as  a 

vegetable  and  also  for  soup. 
Orangeat  (Fr.).     Candied  orange  peel. 

Orgeate  (Fr.).     Barley  water  or  almond  milk  ;    a  favourite  summer  drink. 
Orloff.     A    number  of  dishes  or    their    garniture    are    thus    styled.     OrlotT 

is  the  name  of  a  magnificent  diamond,  owned  by  the  Russian  Count 

Alexis  Grloff,  who  was  known  as  a  great  gourmand  and  epicure. 
Orly,  also  Horly.     Name  given  to  dishes  prepared  in  a  certain  style.     Usually 

slices  of  fish  or  meat  dipped  in  a  rich  batter  and  fried  in  fat. 

Paillasse  (Fr.).     A  grill  over  hot  cinders. 
Pain  (Fr.).     Bread,  forcemeat,  fruit  puree,  etc. 
Pain  d'e"pice  (Fr.).     Spiced  bread  ;    a  kind  of  gingerbread. 
Palais  de  boeuf  (Fr.)     Ox  palate. 

Panach6  (Fr.).  Striped,  streaked,  variegated.  Mixed  with  two  or  more 
kinds  of  vegetables,  fruits,  etc.  ;  also  salads,  jellies,  or  creams. 


i666  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Panada.     Culinary  paste  of  flour  and  water  or  soaked  bread,   used  for  pre- 
paring forcemeat  or  stuffing. 
Paner  (Fr.).     To  egg  and  breadcrumb. 
Pannequets  or  Crepes  (Fr.).     Pancakes. 
Panurette  (Fr.).    A  preparation  of  grated  rusks,  used  for  crumbing,  for  coating 

the  inside  of  moulds,  and  for  decoration  in  place  of  lobster  coral. 
Paprica.     The  fleshy  fruit  of  the  green  and  red  mild  capsicum,  grown  in  the 

south  of  Europe,  and  used  as  spice  for  ragouts  or  salads. 
Paprika.     Hungarian  red  pepper.     A  kind  of  sweet  capsicum  of  a  brilliant 

scarlet  colour  ;   it  is  less  pungent  than  the  Spanish  pepper. 
Parisienne  (a  la)  (Fr.).     Parisian  style.     A  surname  applied  to  various  kinds 

of  dishes,  principally  meat  dishes,  which  are  dressed  in  a  more  or  less 

elaborate  style.     No  particular  specification  as  to  garnish  or  mode 

of  cooking  can  be  given,  as  these  vary  in  almost  every  dish  thus  styled. 
Parmesan.     Name  of  an  Italian  cheese,  usually  made  from  goat's  milk,  largely 

used  for  culinary  purposes. 
Passer  (Fr.).     Pass  (Eng.).     A  word  much  used  in  cookery.     To  pass  a  sauce, 

soup,  vegetable  or  meat  means  to  run  it  through  a  tammy  cloth,  sieve 

or  strainer.     In  culinary  language  the  word  "  passer  "  has  also  the 

same  meaning  as  faire  revenir,  i.e.  to  slightly  fry  in  butter  over  a 

quick  fire  so  as  to  form  a  crusty  surface  on  meats  or  vegetables  which 

are  intended  to  be  finished  by  some  other  process  of  cooking  (usually 

stewing  or  braising). 

Pate  eroquante  (Fr.).     Crisp  almond  and  sugar  paste. 
Pate  feuilletee  (Fr.).     Puff  paste. 
Pate  frise~e  (Fr.).     Short  paste. 
Pate  pastillage  (Fr.).     Gum  paste. 

Pate  (Fr.).     A  pie,  pastry  ;   a  savoury  meat  pasty  or  a  raised  pie. 
Pat§  de  Perigord.     Name  of  a  French  pie,  which  derives  its  name  from  Peri- 

gueux,  a  place  celebrated  for  its  truffles. 
Pate-de-foie-gras   (Fr.).     A   well-known   delicacy  prepared   from    the  livers 

of  fat  geese.     Alsace  is  the    country  where  the  celebrated  so-called 

"  terrines  de  foie-gras  "  are  made.    This  delicacy  was  first  introduced 

by  a  cook  named  Close. 
PStiser  (Fr.).     To  make  pastry. 
Patisserie  (Fr.).     Pastry.     A  pastry  cook's  business. 
Paupiettes  (Fr.).     Slices  of  meat  or  fish  rolled  with  forcemeat. 
Paysanne  (a  la)  (Fr.).     Peasant's  fashion.     Prepared  in  a  homely  way. 
Pepper  Pot.     A  West  Indian  dish,  consisting  of  stewed  pickled  pork  or  bacon, 

shellfish,  rice,  vegetables,  and  aromatic  herbs,  highly  seasoned  with 

cayenne,  okra,  chillies  and  cassareep. 
PSrigord  or  PSrigueux  (si  la)  (Fr.).     Perigord  style.     This  name  is  applied  to 

dishes  in  which  a  truffle  sauce  or  a  garniture  consisting  of  truffles  has 

been  used. 
Perry.  (Eng.).  Name  of  a  beverage  made  of  pears,  similar  to  cider  made  of 

apples.     It  contains  but  little  alcohol,   and  when  preserved  in  casks 

or  bottles  it  keeps  good  for  some  years. 
Persillade  (Fr.).     A  thick  white  sauce  in  which  a  large  quantity  of  parsley 

is  used. 

Petit  lait  (Fr.).     Whey.     The  thin  part  of  milk. 
Petits    pains    (Fr.).      Very    small    rolls    scooped    out     and    stuffed    with 

various  kinds  of  savoury  purees  ;    served  as  savoury  or  side  dishes. 
Petits  pois  verts  (Fr.).     Small  green  peas. 

Pilau.     A  Turkish  national  dish,  made  of  rice  and  onions,  etc. 
Pilcaithly  Bannock.     Name  of  a   kind  of   Scotch   shortbread,  consisting  of 

flat  round  cakes,  the  paste  being   composed  of  flour,   butter,   sugar, 

almonds,  peel,  and  caraway  seed. 

de  resistance.     The  principal  joint  or  other  important  dish  of  a  dinner. 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TERMS  1007 

Pilaw.     An  Indian  dish  made  of  fish  or  meat  and  rice. 

Pimento.  Allspice.  Jamaica  pepper.  A  condiment  possessing  the  combined 
flavours  of  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  and  cloves. 

Piquante  (Fr.).     Sharp  flavoured,  stimulating,  pungent  or  sour. 

Piquer  (Piqu6e)  (Fr.).  Larded.  To  insert  narrow  strips  of  fat  bacon,  truffles, 
tongue,  etc.,  into  lean  meat,  poultry,  game  or  fish. 

Pistaches  (Fr.).  Pistachios.  Kernels  of  the  nut  of  the  turpentine  tree,  used 
for  flavouring  and  garnishing  galantines,  sweets,  etc. — an  almond- 
flavoured  green  nut. 

Poele  (Fr.).     A  cooking  pot  or  pan. 

Poeler  (Fr.).  A  mode  of  braising  meat,  etc.,  in  a  fireproof  earthenware  pan 
placed  on  a  charcoal  fire. 

Polenta  (It.).  A  standard  Italian  dish  made  of  Indian  cornflour.  In  appear- 
ance and  taste  it  resembles  semolina. 

Polio  con  Formaggio.  Name  of  an  Italian  dish,  composed  of  stewed  chicken, 
highly  flavoured  with  Parmesan  cheese. 

Pollocowarroz.  Name  of  an  Italian  dish  consisting  chiefly  of  rice  stewed 
in  broth  (stock). 

Polonaise  (a  la)  (Fr.).     Polish  style.     There  are  two  kinds  of  dishes  known 
under  this  name.     The  first  is  a  kind  of  gratin  style  (baked),  differing 
somewhat  from  the  ordinary  way  of  baking  an  ^mtin.     The  other  is 
the   more   generally   known,    but   little   appreciated   in   this  country, 
its  characteristic  being  to  introduce  the  red  juices  of  pickled 
root  and  red  cabbage  and  sour  cream  into  various  dish< 
a  la  Polonaise  and   ragouts   a   la   Polonaise    are   types  of    dishes   in 
which  this  peculiar  flavour  is  introduced. 

Posset.  Hot  milk  curdled  with  wine,  ale,  vinegar,  treacle  or  acid  ;  from  the 
Welsh,  posel,  curdled  milk. 

Potage  (Fr.).  Soup.  A  nourishing  broth  or  liquor,  forming  the  tirM  OMUSC 
of  a  dinner. 

Pot-au-feu  (Fr.)  is  an  economical  and  wholesome  beef  broth.  It  is  the  stan- 
dard dish  of  all  classes  in  France,  and  the  origin  of  beef  stock. 

Pot  pourri.  A  stew  of  various  kinds  of  meats  and  spices  a  favourite  dish 
in  Spain. 

Potrock.      Name  of  a   Russian   thick  soup. 

Poularde  (Fr.).     A  very  fat  fowl  or  fine  pullet. 

Poule-au-pot  (Fr.).     A  boiled  fowl  served  with  reduced  pot-liquor  and 
tables. 

Poulet  en  casserole.  Chicken  fried  and  basted  with  butter  in  an  earthen- 
ware stewpan.  When  the  chicken  is  browned  in  the  butter  the  lid 
is  put  on  the  stewpan,  and  it  is  allowed  to  cook  slowly  till  done,  bfin-j 
basted  occasionally. 

Poulet  a    la   Heine  (Fr.).     Chicken   dressed   with   \\hite  sauce.      Nam. 
to  fine  specimens  of  young  chickens. 

Poulette  (Fr.).  A  young  hen.  A  sauce  made  of  flour,  stock,  butter  ;»n«l 
chopped  herbs,  used  for  the  dishes  prepared  "  a  l.i  p<mlf- 

Poulpeton  or  Polpetti.     Slices  of  veal  with  minced  meat. 

Poupelin  (Fr.).      A   kind  of  pastry. 

Poupeton  (Fr.).     A  ragout  of  fish  or  flesh  enclosed  in  rice  and  baked  brown. 

Praline  (Fr.).     Burnt  almond. 

Pralin6  (Fr.).     Flavoured  with  burnt  almonds. 

Pr6-sal6  (Fr.).     Meat  of  prime  mutton  (Southdown  mutton). 

Profiteroles  (Fr.).  A  kind  of  light  cake,  baked  in  hot  ashes,  and  filled  with 
cream  or  custard. 

Provencale  (a  la)  (Fr.).  A  surname  for  certain  French  dishes,  indicating 
generally  that  garlic  or  onion  and  olive  oil  has  been  used  in  the 
preparation. 

Pumpernickel  (Ger.).     Westphalian  brown  bread. 


1668  HOUSEHOLD   MANAGEMENT 

Punch  a  la  Romaine  (Fr.).  A  kind  of  soft  white  ice,  made  from  lemon-juice 
white  of  egg,  sugar,  and  rum.  It  is  served  in  goblets,  usually  after 
the  remove,  and  acts  as  a  digestive.  It  forms  a  sort  of  interlude  be- 
tween two  acts  of  that  grand  play — the  dinner. 

Pur6e  (Fr.).  A  smooth  pulp,  mashed  vegetables,  thick  soup.  The  name  is 
also  given  to  meat  or  fish  which  is  cooked,  pounded  in  a  mortar,  and 
passed  through  a  sieve. 

Quark  (Ger.J.     Name  of  a  German  cheese,  similar  to  curd  cheese,  known  in 

France  as  "  fromage  mou." 
Quartier  d'agneau  (Fr.).     A  quarter  of  lamb. 
Quasi  de  veau  (Fr.).     The  chump  end  of  a  loin  of  veal. 

Quenefres  (Fr.).     An  Italian  paste,  similar  to  macaroni — used  for  soups,  etc. 
Quenelles  (Fr.).     Forcemeat  of  different  kinds,  composed  of  fish,  poultry  or 

meat,  eggs,  etc.,  shaped  in  various  forms — balls,  ovals,  etc.,  poached, 

and  served  as  an  entree  or  garnish  to  soup,  etc. 
Queue  (Fr.).     Tail.     "  Queues  de  boeuf,"   "  queues  d'ecrevisses."     Ox-tail, 

crayfish  tails,  etc. 
Quoorma.     Name  of  a  very  mild  Indian  curry. 

Rafraichir  (Fr.).  To  refresh  or  cool  by  immersion  in  cold  water  or  re- 
frigeration. 

Ragout  (Fr.).     A  rich  stew  of  meat,  highly  seasoned. 

Ramequin  (Fr.).  Ramakin.  Cheese  fritter  ;  small  fondues  served  in  china 
or  paper  cases. 

R&per  (Fr.).     To  scrape,  shred,  rasp  or  grate. 

Ratafie  or  Ratafia.  A  culinary  essence ;  the  essence  of  bitter  almonds. 
A  special  kind  of  almond  biscuits,  in  the  shape  of  drops,  are  called 
ratafias.  The  name  is  also  given  to  a  liqueur  flavoured  with  almonds. 

Raton  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  cheesecake. 

Ravigote  (Fr.).  A  very  richly  flavoured  green  herb  sauce ;  served  cold. 
First  heard  of  in  1720.  "  Ducereau,  a  French  writer,  mentions  it  in 
one  of  his  poems. 

Ravioles  (Fr.).  Small  round  nouille-paste  dumplings,  filled  with  spinach, 
forcemeat,  etc.  Used  as  garniture  for  soups. 

RechaufTS  (Fr.).     Warmed-up  meat  recooked  or  redressed. 

Rechauffer.     To  re-heat. 

Reduire  (Fr.).  To  boil  down,  to  reduce  ;  to  boil  liquid  gradually  to  a  desired 
consistency. 

Relever  (Fr.).     To  remove,  to  turn  up,  to  raise. 

Releve~  (Fr.).  The  remove.  A  course  of  a  dinner,  consisting  of  large  joints 
of  meat,  four-footed  game,  and  sometimes  joints  of  fish. 

Remouillage  (Fr.).     Second  stock. 

Remoulade  (Fr.).  A  cold  sauce,  flavoured  with  savoury  herbs  and  mustard, 
used  as  salad-dressing,  etc. 

Renaissance  (Fr.).  Something  reintroduced.  A  word  used  for  dishes  of 
modern  invention. 

Rennet.  The  name  given  to  the  prepared  inner  membrane  of  a  calf's,  pig's, 
hare's  or  fowl's  stomach ;  used  for  curdling  or  coagulating  milk. 

Rillettes  (Fr.).  A  French  savoury  meat  preparation,  used  for  hors  d'oeuvres 
and  savouries. 

Ris  de  veau  (Fr.).     Calf's  sweetbread. 

Rissol6  (e"e)  (Fr.).     Well  browned,  fried  or  baked,  covered  with  crumbs. 

Rissoles  (Fr.).  A  mixture  of  minced  fish  or  meat,  enclosed  in  paste,  half- 
moon  shapes,  and  fried  in  fat  or  butter. 

Rissolettes.     Similar  to  rissoles  ;    thin  pancakes  being  used  in  place  of  paste. 

Rizzered  Haddie.  The  name  of  a  Scotch  dish,  made  from  haddocks  or  cod- 
fish dried  in  the  sun. 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY  TERMS  1669 

Rognons  (Fr.).     Kidneys. 

Romaine  (Fr.).     Cos  lettuce.     "  A  la  Romaine,"  Roman  style. 

Romankeintjes     (Du.).  A  Dutch  pastry  made  of  eggs,  sugar,  and  almonds. 

Roquefort  (Fr.).     Roquefort,  a  highly-esteemed  French  cheese. 

R6ti  (Fr.).     The  roast,  indicating  the  course  of  a  meal  which  is  served  before 

the  entremets.     Roast  meat,  poultry,  and  game. 
Roulade  (Fr.).     Roll,  rolling.     Rolled  meat  smoked  and  cooked. 
Roux  (Fr.).     A  preparation  of  butter  and  flour  for  thickening  soups    and 

sauces. 
Royal.     Name  of  an  egg  custard  used  for  garnishing  clear  soups.     Also  the 

name  applied  to  an  icing  (glace  royale),  made  with  whites  of  egg  and 

icing  sugar,  and  used  for  coating  and  decoration. 

Sabayon  (Fr.).     Pudding  sauce,  composed  of  cream  or  milk,  sugar,  white  wine, 

and  eggs. 
Saccharometer.     A  culinary  thermometer.     An  instrument  to  test  the  various 

degrees  of  heat  for  cooking. 
Saignant  (Fr.).     Underdone,  bloody. 
Saindoux  (Fr.).     Hog's  lard.     Used    for   frying   and    for   modelling   socles, 

flowers,  etc. 
Salade  (Fr.).     Salad.     Raw  herbs,  edible  plants,  raw  and  cooked  vegetables, 

etc.,  dressed  with  oil  and  vinegar. 
Salamandre  (Fr.).     An  utensil  which,  after  being  made  red  hot,  is  used  for 

browning  any  dishes  that  want  colour. 
Saler  (Fr.).     To  salt,  to  season  with  salt.     "  Saler  de  la  viande,"  to  cure 

meat. 
Saleratus.     A  kind  of  baking  powder,   consisting  of  potash,   incorporated 

with  an  acid.     A  natural  mineral  water. 
Sally  Luns  or  Lunn.     Name  of  a  kind  of  tea-cake,  slightly  sweetened  and 

raised  with   brewer's   yeast.     Sally  Lunn  was   a   pastrycook   who.  at 

the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century,  used  to  make  and  sell  a  kind  of 

tea-biscuits  known  as  Sally  Lunns.     She  used  to  sell  these  in  the  streets 

of  Bath. 
Salmagundi.      Name  of  a  very  old  English  supper  dish.     It  is  a  kind  of  meat 

salad,  mixed  and  decorated  with  hard-boiled  eggs,  anchovy,  pickles, 

and  beetroot. 

Salmi  or  Salmis.     A  hash  made  of  half -roasted  game. 
Salpicon.     A  mince  of  poultry  or  game  with  ham,  tongue,  and  mushrooms, 

used  for  croquettes,  bouchees,  rissoles,  etc. 
Salsify  or  Salsifls.     An  edible  plant  ;    sometimes    called  oyster    plant,   the 

flavour  of  the  root  resembling  somewhat  that  of  the  oyster. 
Salzgurken  (Ger.).     A  German   pickle   served   with   boiled   or   roast    meats, 

made  of  cucumbers  soused  in  salt  water. 
Samp.     A  food  composed  of  coarsely-ground  maize,  boiled  and  eaten  with 

milk  (American  dish). 
Sanbaglione.     A  delicious  sweet  chocolate  cream,  served  in  glasses  either 

hot  or  cold. 
Sangaree.     The  name  of  an  Indian  punch  drink.     It  is  made  with  sherry, 

water,  lemon-juice,  and  sugar. 
Sangler  (Fr.).     To  strap,  to  girth.     To  prepare  the  ice  mixture  ready  for 

freezing.     One  part  of  salt  to  five  parts  of  broken  ice  is  the  proper 

proportion  used  for  freezing. 
Sapaceau  (Fr.).     An  egg  punch. 

Sarbotiere  (Fr.).     A  pewter  freezing-pot  or  freezing-pan. 
Sassafras.     The  name  of  an  agreeable  beverage  much  drunk  in  North  America. 

A  tree  of  the  laurel  family. 

Sasser  (Fr.).     To  sift.     To  stir  rapidly  with  a  spoon  in  a  stewpan. 
Sauce  piquante  (Fr.).     A  sharp  sauce. 


1670  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Saucer  (Fr.).     To  sauce  over  the  contents  of  a  dish. 

Sauciere  (Fr.).     A  sauceboat.     A  deep  narrow-shaped  dish,  in  which  sauce 

is  served. 

Saucisse  (Fr.).     French  pork  sausages. 
Saucisson  (Fr.).     Smoked  sausages. 
Sauerkraut  (Ger.).     Choucroute  (Fr.).     Sourkrout  (Eng.).     A  kind  of  pickled 

cabbage  ;    cabbage  preserved  in  brine.     A  national  dish  of  Germany. 

Served  hot  with  bacon  or  sausages. 
Saugrenee  (Fr.).     A  French  process  of  cooking,  implying  stewed  with  a  little 

water,  butter,  salt,  and  herbs.     Despois  a  la  saugrenee  are  stewed  peas, 

cooked  as  above  described. 
Saur  (Fr.).     Smoke-dried. 
Saurer  (Fr.).     To  dry  or  cure  in  smoke. 
Saute-pan.     Sautoire  (Fr.).    A  shallow,  thin-bottomed    cooking-pan    made 

of  copper. 
Sauter  (6e)  (Fr.).     To  toss  over  the  fire,  in  a  saute  or  frying-pan,  with  little 

butter  or  fat.     Anything  that  requires  a  sharp  fire  and  quick  cooking. 
Sauterne  (Fr.).     A  French  white  wine,  produced  at  Sauterne,  in  the  Gironde, 

France  ;  much  used  in  cookery. 
Schmorbraten  (Ger.).     A  German  dish,  consisting  of  rump  of   beef  braised 

(a  la  mode  fashion),  garnished  with  mushrooms,  gherkins,  and  braised 

vegetables. 

Scots  Kail.     Name  of  a  thick  broth  ;   a  kind  of  pot-au-feu,  served  as  a  stand- 
ing dish  in  Scotland.     A  variety  of  cabbage. 
Sevigne'   (Fr.).     A  French  soup  named  after   the  Marchioness  Sevigne,   of 

Rabutin-Chantal,  a  French  authoress,  born  1626,  died  1696. 
Sillsillat.     A  Swedish  dish  ;    a  salad  of  pickled  herring,  with  mussels,  meat, 

eggs,  onion  and  beetroot. 
Simnel  cake.     A  Lenten  or  Easter    cake,  with  raised    crust,  coloured  with 

saffron,  the  interior  being  filled  with  the  materials  of  a  very  rich  plum 

pudding.     They  are  made  up  very  stiff,  boiled  in  a  cloth  for  several 

hours,  then  brushed  over  with  egg,  and  baked. 

Singer  (Fr.).     To  imitate.     To  dust  with  flour  from  the  dredging-box. 
Slapjack.     A  kind  of  broad  flat  pancake. 

Sling.     A  drink  made  of  rum  and  water,  sweetened  with  grated  nutmeg. 
Socles.     Stands  of  fat,  rice,  etc.,  used  to  raise  entrees,  etc.,  above  the  level 

of  the  dish. 
Sorbet  (Fr.).     An  iced  Turkish  drink.       Also  the  name  of  a  water  ice  with 

fruit  or  liqueur  flavour,  usually  served  in  goblets. 
Soubise  (Fr.).     A  smooth  onion  pulp  served  with  various  kinds  of  meat 

entrees.     The  name  is  supposed  to  come  from  Prince  Charles  Soubise 

(born    1715,   died   1787),   who  was  a  celebrated  epicure.     He  served 

as  a  field-marshal  during  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV  of  France.     As  a 

surname  to  dishes,  a  la  Soubise  is  generally  applied  when  onions  enter 

largely  into   the  composition  of  a  dish  ;    the  term  implies  a  strong 

onion  flavour,  or  a  garnish  of  onion  puree. 
Souffl6   (Fr.).     A  very  light   baked  or  steam  pudding  ;    an  omelet.     Also 

applied  to  light  savoury  creams. 

Souffle1  glace*  (Fr.).     A  very 'light  sweet  cream  mixture,  iced  and  served  in  cases. 
Soy.     The  name  of  a  dark-brown  sauce,  originally  made  in  Japan  ;    there 

are  many  English  relishes  in  which  soy  is  employed  as  one  of  the 

ingredients. 
Spaghetti  (It.).     An    Italian    cord-like  paste,  intermediate  in  size  between 

macaroni  and  vermicelli. 
Spread  Eagle  (Eng.).     Poulet  a  la  Crapotine  (Fr.).     A  young  fat  chicken 

split  down  the  back,  flattened,  breast  bone  removed,  seasoned,  oiled 

or  buttered,  and  grilled  or  baked. 
Squab  (Eng.).     A  young  pigeon  ;    name  used  particularly  in  North  America. 


GLOSSARY  OF  CULINARY    TERMS  1671 

Squab  chicken,  a  young  chicken,  applicable  to  animals   while  young, 

fat,  and  clumsy.     Squab  pie  is  therefore  primarily  a  (young)  pigeon  pie. 

Such  a  pie  becomes  Devonshire  squab  pie  by  the  addition  of  apples. 

Squab  pigeons — innocents  of  French  cooks. 
Stechi.     A  Russian  oatmeal  soup. 

Stirabout.     Name  of  an  Irish  dish  similar  to  Scotch  porridge. 
Succotash.     An  American  dish  made  of  green  corn  and   Lima  beans.     The 

dish  is  said  to  be  borrowed  from  the  Narraganset  Indians,  known  to 

them  as  msickquatash. 
Suedoise  (a  la)  (Fr.).     Swedish  style. 
Supreme  (Fr.).     A  rich,  delicately  flavoured  cream  sauce,  made  from  chicken 

stock,  etc. 
Syllabub.     A  kind  of  milk  punch  flavoured  with  liqueurs  and  spices.   Usually 

served  in  glasses. 

Tagliarini  (It.).     A  kind  of  macaroni  paste  cut  in  fine  shreds. 

Tailler  la  soupe  (Fr.).     A  culinary  expression.     Thin  slices  or  crusts  of  bread 

placed  in  a  soup  tureen  are  called    tailler.     "  Tremper  la   soupe  "  is 

the  French  term  applied  when  the  broth  is  poured  over  the  slices. 
Talmouse  (Fr.).     A  kind  of  French  pastry,  sweet  or  savoury,  made  in  the  shape 

of  parsons'  caps. 
Tamis  (Fr.).     Tammy.     Woollen  canvas  cloth  which  is  used  for  straining 

soups  and  sauces. 
Tansy  (Eng.).     A  herb  with  strong  aromatic  flavour,  sometimes  used  for 

flavouring  in  puddings.     A  variety  of  custard. 
Tarragon    (Eng.).     Estragon    (Fr.).     Aromatic    plant    used    for    flavouring 

vinegar,  sauces,  etc. 
Tartare  (Fr.).     A  cold  sauce,   made  of  yolks  of  egg,   oil,   mustard,  capers, 

gherkins,  etc.,  served  with  fried  fish  or  cold  meats  ;  also  a  salad  dressing. 
Terrapin.     South    American,  fresh-water  and   tidal   turtle,  very  little  known 

and  used  in  England. 
Terrine  (Fr.).     A  small  earthenware  pan  or  pot,  used  for  potting  foie-gras, 

pates  and  potted  meats.     A  tureen  for  soup. 
Tete  de  veau  (Fr.).     Calf's  head. 
Timbale   (Fr.).     Literally   "  kettle-drum."     A   kind   of  crusted   hash   baked 

in  a  mould. 

Tobasco.     Name  of  a  savoury  Indian  dish. 
Toddy.     An  American  punch.     The    fundamental  juice  of  various  palms  of 

the  East  Indies  ;    a  mixture  of  whisky,  sugar,  and  hot  water. 
Tokai  (Fr.).     Tokay  (Eng.).     A  wine  produced  at  Tokay,  in  Hungary;    a 

variety  of  grape. 

Tom  and  Jerry.     An  American  drink  of  hot  rum  and  eggs,  spiced  and  sweet- 
ened ;  an  egg  punch. 
Tomber  a  glace  (Fr.).     To  reduce  a  liquid  till  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  thick 

syrup. 

Tonalchile  (Fr.).     Guinea  pepper. 
Topinambours  (Fr.).     Jerusalem  artichokes. 
Tortue  (Fr.).     Turtle  ;    also  called  sea-tortoise. 
Toulouse  (a  la)  (Fr.).     A  rich  white  stew  of  white  meats,  mushrooms,  truffles, 

etc.,  used  for  filling  crusts  or  for  garnishing. 
Tournedos  (Fr.).     Small  thin  fillets  of  beef  served  as  entrees.     First  served 

in  Paris  in   1855. 

Tourner  (Fr.).     To  turn.     To  stir  a  sauce  ;   also  to  pare  and  cut  roots. 
Tourte  (Fr.).     An  open  tart  baked  in  a  round  shallow  tin  ;   also  a  flat  dough 

case  in  which  ragouts  are  served. 
Tourtelettes  (Fr.).     Small  tartlets. 

Tranche  (Fr.).     Slice.     Mostly  applied  to  salmon,  cod,  etc. 
Trautmannsdorff  (Ger.).     Name  of  an  Austrian  count,  born  1749,  died  1827. 

Several  sweets  are  stvled  after  his  name, 


1672         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

Trousser  (Fr.).     To  tie  up,  to  truss  a  bird. 

Truffer  (Fr.).     To  garnish  a  sauce  with  truffles,  or  to  season  the  interior  of 

poultry  or  game  with  truffle  stuffing,  such  as  capons,  turkeys,  and 

pheasants. 

Truite  saumon6e  (Fr.).     Salmon  trout. 
Tutti-frutti  (It.).     An   Italian  expression  for  various  kinds  of  fruits,  or  a 

mixture  of  cooked  vegetables. 
Tyrolienne  (a  la)  (Fr.).     Tyrolean  style. 

Usquebaugh.  The  name  of  an  Irish  beverage  (whisky),  consisting  of  a  com  - 
pound  spirit  made  with  spices  and  sugar. 

Vanille  (a  la).    Flavoured  with  vanilla. 

Vanner  (Fr.).  To  stir  a  sauce  quickly  so  as  to  work  it  up  lightly  in  order  to 
make  it  smooth. 

VSnitienne  (a  la)  (Fr.).     Venetian  style. 

Velout6  (Fr.).     A  rich  white  sauce.     Foundation  sauce. 

Vermicelle  (Fr.).  Vermicelli  (It.).  Very  fine  rolls  of  paste,  made  from  the 
dough  of  wheat  flour,  and  forced  through  cylinders  or  pipes  till  it  takes 
a  slender,  worm-like  form,  when  it  is  dried  ;  used  in  soups,  puddings, 
and  for  crumbing. 

Vert-pr6  (Fr.).     Name  of  a  green  herb  sauce  or  garnish. 

Viande  (Fr.).     Meat,  viands.     An  ancient  name  for  victuals. 

Viennoise  (si  la).     Vienna  or  Viennese  style. 

Vin  blanc  (au)  (Fr.).     Dressed  with  white  wine. 

Vinaigre  (Fr.).     Vinegar.     Vinaigrer,  to  season  with  vinegar. 

Vinaigrette  (Fr.).     A  sauce  of  vinegar,  oil,  pepper,  and  herbs. 

Volaille  (Fr.).     Poultry,  chicken. 

Vol-au-vent  (Fr.).  A  light  round  puff  paste  crust,  filled  with  delicately- 
flavoured  ragouts  of  chicken,  sweetbread,  etc.  (d  la  financiere). 

Volie're.     Birdcage  style  of  dressing  poultry  or  game. 

Vopalliere.  A  dish  of  small  chicken  fillets,  larded  and  braised,  served  with 
truffle  sauce. 

Vraie  tortue  (Fr.).     Real  turtle. 

Xeres  (Sp.).  Spanish  strong  wine  of  deep  amber  colour  and  aromatic 
flavour  ;  so-called  from  Xeres,  a  place  near  Cadiz. 

Zabyajone  (It.).  A  frothing  mixture  of  wine,  yolks  of  eggs  and  sugar,  thick- 
ened over  the  fire  and  served  hot  in  glasses. 

Zambaglione.  A  kind  of  chocolate  cream,  served  in  glasses  either  hot  or 
cold. 

Zephire  (Fr.).  Name  of  a  small  oval-shaped  forcemeat  dumpling,  a  kind 
of  quenelle,  poached  and  served  with  a  rich  sauce. 

Zuppa  al  brodo.     A  fish  broth  with  toasted  bread  and  cheese. 

Zythum  or  Zythos.  A  liquid  made  from  malt  and  wheat  ;  a  kind  of  malt 
beverage. 


ENGLISH  AND  FRENCH 

NAMES  OF  ARTICLES 

OF  FOOD 


English. 
Clear  Soup 
Broth 


Anchovy 

Barbel 

Bream 

Brill 

Carp 

Cod 

Cod,  salt 

Conger  eel 

Dace 

Dorey 

Eel 

Flounder 

Gudgeon 

Gurnet 

Haddock 

Hake 

Halibut 

Herring 

Ling 

Mackerel 

Mullet,  grey 


Crab 
Crayfish 
Crawfish 
Lobster 


CHAPTER  LXIH 


SOUP 

French. 
Consomme 
Bouillon 


—     POTAGE 

English. 
Thick  Soup 


French. 
Puree 


FISH     — 

Anchois,  m. 
Barbeau,  m. 
Breme,  f. 
Barbue,  f. 
Carpe,  f. 
Cabillaud,  m. 
Morue,  f. 
Congre,  m. 
Vandoise,  f. 
Doree,  f. 
Anguille,  f. 
Limande,  f.,  Car- 

relet,  m. 
Goujon,  m. 
Grondin,  m. 
Eglefin,  m. 
Merlus,  m. 
Fletau,  m. 
Hareng,  m. 
Lingue,  f. 
Maquereau,  m. 
Mulct,  m. 


SHELLFISH     —     COQUILLAGES 


POISSON 

Mullet,  red 

Rouget,  m. 

Perch 

Perche,  f. 

Pike 

Brochet,  m. 

Plaice 

Plie,  f. 

Roe 

Laitance,  f. 

Salmon 

Saumon,  m. 

Sardine 

Sardine,  f. 

Scallop 

Petoncle,  f. 

Shad 

Alose,  f. 

Skate 

Raie,  f. 

Smelt 

Eperlan,  m. 

Sole 

Sole,  f. 

Sprat 

Harenguet,  m. 

Sturgeon 

Esturgeon,  m. 

Tench 

Tanche,  f. 

Trout 

Truite,  f. 

Trout,  Salmon 

Truite    Saumo- 

nee,  f. 

Tunny 

Thon,  m. 

Turbot 

Turbot,  m. 

Whitebait 

Blanchaille,  f. 

Whiting 

Merlan,  m. 

Crabe,  m. 
[Ecrevisse,  f. 


Mussel 
Oyster 
Prawn 
Shrimp 


Moule,  f. 
Huitre,  f. 
Crevette,  f. 
Crevette,  f. 


1873 


i674 


HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 


MEAT     —     VIANDE 


English. 

French. 

English. 

French. 

Beef 

Boeuf,  m. 

Neck  of  mutton 

Carre  de  mouton 

Veal 

Veau,  m. 

Palate 

Palais,  m. 

Mutton 

Mouton,  m. 

Quarter 

Quartier,  m. 

Lamb 

Agneau,  m. 

Rib 

Cote,  f. 

Pork 

Pore,  m. 

Rump 

Culotte,  f. 

Sucking-pig 

Cochon  de  lait,  m. 

Sausage 

Saucisse,  f. 

Brains 

Cervelles,  f. 

flat 

Crepinette,  f. 

Breast 

Poitrine,  f. 

Shoulder 

Epaule,  f. 

Chine 

Echine,  f. 

Sirloin 

Aloyau,  m. 

Cutlet 

C6telette;  f. 

Steak 

Bifteck,  m. 

Fillet 

Filet,  m. 

Sweetbread 

Ris  de  veau,  m. 

Kidney 

Rognon,  m. 

Tail 

Queue,  f. 

Knuckle 

Cuissot,  m. 

Tongue 

Langue,  f. 

Leg 

Gigot,  m. 

Ear 

Oreille,  f. 

Liver 

Foie,  f. 

Head 

Tete,  f. 

Loin 

Longe,  f. 

Saddle 

Selle,  f. 

Neck 

Carre,  m. 

Slice 

Tranche,  f. 

Neck  (scrag  end) 

Cou,  m. 

Trotters,  feet 

Pieds,  m. 

GAME,  POULTRY     —     GIBIER,  VOLAILLE 

Black  Game 

Coq  de  bruyere,       Pigeon  (young) 

Pigeonneau,  m. 

m. 

„       wild 

Ramier,  m. 

Capon 

Chapon,  m. 

Pintail 

Pintade,  m. 

Chicken 

Poulet,  m. 

Pheasant 

Faisan,  m. 

Duck 

Canard,  m. 

Plover,  Golden 

Pluvier,  m. 

wild 

,,  sauvage,  m. 

,,         Green 

Vanneau,  m. 

Duckling 

Cane  ton,  m. 

Poularde 

Poularde,  f. 

Fowl 

Poulet,  m. 

Prairie  Hen 

Poule  de  Prairie 

Goose 

Oie,  f. 

Quail 

Caille,  f. 

Gosling 

Oison,  m. 

Rabbit 

Lapin,  Lapereau 

Grouse 

Grouse,  m. 

Roe  Deer 

Chevreuil,  f. 

Guinea  Fowl 

Pintade,  f. 

Snipe 

Becassine,  f. 

Hare 

Lievre,  m. 

Teal 

Sarcelle,  f. 

Lark 

Mauviette,  f. 

Turkey 

Dindon,  m.  din 

Leveret 

Levraut,  m. 

de,  f. 

Ortolan; 

Ortolan,  m. 

„        poult 

Dindonneau,  m. 

Partridge 

Perdrixe,  f. 

Venison 

Venaisan,  f. 

„         (  young  )Perdreau,  m. 

Widgeon 

Canard  simeur 

Pigeon 

Pigeon,  m. 

Woodcock 

Becasse,  f. 

ENGLISH  AND  FRENCH  NAMES  OF  ARTICLES  OF  FOOD  1675 


VEGETABLES     —     LEGUMES 

English.                      French. 

English.                      French. 

Artichoke,    Jeru- 

Eschalot or  shalot  Echalote,  f  . 

salem                 Topinambour,  m. 

Gherkin                 Cornichon,  m. 

Artichokes,  bot-  Fond  d'arti- 

Green  Peas           Pois  verts,  f. 

tom                         chaut,  m. 

Horseradish          Raifort,  m. 

Artichoke,  globe  Artichaut,  m. 

Kale,  Scotch        Chou  Ecossais.m. 

Asparagus             Asperge,  f. 

Leek                      Poireau,  m. 

Beans,  broad        Feves,  f. 

Lettuce                 Laitue,  f. 

French       Haricot-vert,  m. 

Lentil                    Lentille,  f. 

haricot             .,       blanc,  m. 

Marjoram              Origan,  m. 

Beetroot          ^     Betterave,  f. 

,,          sweet  Marjolainc,  f. 

Broccoli                Brocoli,  m. 

Mushroom            Champignon,   m 

Brussels  sprouts  Choux    de    Bru-  i  Onion                    Oignon,  m. 

xelles,  m. 

Parsley                  Persil,  m. 

Cabbage                Chou,  m. 

Parsnip                 Panais,  m. 

red            .,       rouge,  m. 

Peas                       Petits  pois,  m. 

Capers                   Capres,  f. 

Pumpkin               Courge,  f. 

Cauliflower            Choufleur,  m. 

Salsify                   Salsifis,  m. 

Carrot                    Carotte,  f. 

Seakale                 Chou  de  mer,  m. 

Celery                    Celeri,  m. 

Sorrel                     Oseille,  f. 

Chervil                  Cerfeuil,  m. 

Spinach                 Epinards,  m. 

Chestnut               Ma  iron,  m. 

Tarragon               Estragon,  m. 

Cucumber             Concombre,  m. 

Tomato                 Tomate,  f. 

Cress                      Cresson,  m. 

Turnip                  Navet,  m. 

Endive                  Chicorec,  f. 

Watercress           Cresson,  m. 

FRUITS             FRUITS 

Almond                 Armande,  f.               Hazel  nut             Noisette,  f. 

Apple                     Pomme,  f. 

Lemon                  Citron,  m. 

Banana                 Banane.  f. 

Medlar                   Neflc,  f. 

Blackberry           Muron.  m. 

Melon                    Melon,  m. 

Cherry                   Cerise,  f. 

Mulberry               Mure,  f. 

Chestnut               Marron,  m. 

Nectarine              Brugnon,  m. 

Cranberry             Canneberge,  f. 

Nut                        Noix,  f. 

Currant                 Raisin    de    Cor- 

Olive                      Olive,  f. 

inthe,  m. 

Orange                  Orange,  f. 

Currant,  white  Groseille  blanche,  f. 

,,     Tangerine  Mandarine,  f. 

red             ..        rouge,  f. 

Peach                    P6che,  f. 

black         ..        noire,  f. 

Pear                       Poire,  f. 

Date                      Datte,  f. 

Plum                      Prune,  f. 

Fig                          Figuc,  f. 

Pomegranate       Grenade,  f. 

Filbert                   Aveline.  f. 

Quince                   Going,  m. 

Gooseberry           Groseille  verte,  f. 

Raspberry             Framboise,  f. 

Grapes                   Raisins,  m. 

Strawberry           Fraise,  f. 

Greengage             Prune,  f. 

Walnut                  Noix.   t. 

MEALS: 

THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND 
ARRANGEMENT 


CHAPTER   LXIV 

General  Observations  on  Family  and  Wedding  Break- 
fasts, Luncheons,  Dinners,  Teas,  and  Suppers 

ONE  of  the  chief  considerations  of  life  is,  or  ought  to  be,  the  food 
we  eat,  for  our  physical  well-being  depends  mainly  on  diet.  Th^ 
perfect  adjustment  of  diet  can  only  be  maintained  by  a  combination 
of  certain  factors,  of  which  suitable  food  and  good  cooking  may  be 
considered  the  most  important. 

One  important  consideration  with  regard  to  meals  is  their  regularity, 
and  speaking  from  the  health  point  of  view,  it  is  most  essential.  A 
meal  that  we  have  waited  for  an  hour  too  long  is  often  one  that  we  fail 
to  appreciate  ;  and  while  to  the  healthy  irregularity  is  dangerous,  to 
the  delicate  it  is  injurious.  It  is  not  difficult  to  determine  what  are 
the  best  and  most  convenient  times  to  take  our  meals,  and  when  once 
these  hours  are  fixed,  the  next  thing  is  to  insist  on  punctuality,  not 
only  for  those  who  serve  them,  but  for  those  for  whom  they  are  pre- 
pared. Food  cooked  to  a  nicety  cannot  afford  to  wait  ;  good  things 
are  spoilt,  and  waste  and  discontent  are  the  result,  if  people  are  not 
ready  to  partake  of  what  is  prepared  at  a  given  time. 

The  composition,  properties  and  preparation  of  food  have  already 
been  fully  treated  in  preceding  chapters,  and  the  following  pages  will 
simply  convey  to  the  reader  a  few  items  of  useful  information  regarding 
the  meals  themselves.  These  necessary  particulars  should  soon  become 
matters  of  common  knowledge,  as  instruction  in  every  branch  of  domes- 
tic science  now  forms  part  of  the  curriculum  of  almost  every  school 
in  the  kingdom. 

When  the  laws  which  govern  the  application  of  heat  are  once  grasped, 
the  fundamental  difficulties  of  roasting,  boiling,  grilling  and  frying  are 

1670 


MEALS:  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT  1677 

overcome,  but  this  by  no  means  comprises  the  whole  art  of  cookery. 
Such  culinary  artists  as  Ude,  Careme  and  Francatelli  owe  their  fame 
as  Chefs-de-Cuisine  to  their  ingenuity  in  originating  new  methods  and 
new  dishes,  their  skill  in  manipulation,  and  their  care  in  combining 
seasonings  and  flavourings  in  such  perfect  proportions  that  no  parti- 
cular ingredient  was  allowed  to  predominate.  Moreover,  they  not 
only  raised  cookery  to  a  fine  art,  but  their  influence  in  the  direction 
of  refinement  and  elegance  eliminated  much  that  was  gross  in  the  Eng- 
lish mode  of  living.  Francatelli,  who  has  been  termed  the  "  Father 
of  Modern  Chefs,"  strongly  advocated  simplicity  in  both  cooking  and 
service.  The  introduction  of  the  dinner  a  la  Russe  was  in  a  great 
measure  due  to  his  efforts,  and  this  arrangement  is  now  so  popular  that 
it  is  adopted  in  almost  every  household  where  a  sufficient  number  of 
servants  are  kept  to  allow  the  food  to  be  handed  round.  There  are 
still  a  few  old-fashioned  people  who  prefer  the  older  custom  of  having 
all  the  dishes  placed  upon  the  table,  and  of  course  this  custom  must 
always  prevail  in  lower  middle-class  households  ;  but  it  is  almost  gener- 
ally agreed  that  it  is  much  more  artistic  and  agreeable  to  have  nothing 
displayed  but  fruit  and  flowers,  however  simple  and  inexpensive  these 
may  be.  Pleasant  and  appropriate  surroundings  contribute  largely 
to  the  enjoyment  of  a  meal,  and  as  our  meals,  whether  elaborate  or 
simple,  are  an  important  item  in  the  sum  total  of  domestic  happiness, 
the  greatest  possible  care  should  be  bestowed  on  their  preparation  and 
service. 

In  giving  a  dinner  it  is  far  better  to  have  a  simple  meal,  which  one 
knows  will  be  properly  cooked  and  served,  than  to  risk  anything 
elaborate,  for  it  is  difficult  to  appear  utterly  unconcerned  when  one  is 
harassed  by  petty  cares,  and  a  thoroughly  good  hostess  is  one  who  is 
able  herself  to  enjoy,  without  anxiety,  the  dinner  she  is  giving  to  her 
friends. 

The  temperature  of  the  room  is  a  very  important  subject  that  is 
often  overlooked. 

It  is  not  possible  to  thoroughly  enjoy  a  good  dinner  in  a  room  either 
too  hot  or  too  cold,  and  hostesses  should  well  consider  this  matter. 

Table  Arrangements. — There  are  a  few  general  rules  which  apply  equally 
to  mansion  and  cottage.  However  simple  may  be  the  meal,  and  how- 
ever coarse  in  texture  the  cloth,  it  should  be  clean,  free  from  creases, 
and  arranged  smoothly  with  the  centre  fold  forming  a  true  line  the 
whole  length  of  the  table.  The  knives  should  be  clean,  bright  and 
sharp,  and  the  silver  clean  and  well  polished.  When  properly  trained 
servants  are  kept,  contrary  conditions  seldom  exist  ;  neither  would 
they  in  small  households,  where  the  work  devolves  upon  an  inexper- 
ienced housemaid,  if  a  few  simple  rules  were  strictly  enforced,  such  as 
removing  the  crumbs  and  folding  the  cloth  on  the  table,  instead  of  allow- 
ing it  to  be  shaken  and  folded  outside  the  room  ;  that  after  each  meal 
all  knives  should  be  cleaned  and  made  ready  for  use  ;  and,  what  is 


1678  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

still  more  important,  that  such  articles  as  silver-plated  dishes,  spoons, 
etc.,  after  having  gone  through  the  ordinary  process  of  washing-up, 
should  be  re-washed  with  soap  and  hot  water,  and  well  polished  with 
a  leather.  Apart  from  the  fact  that  silver  thus  treated  always  pre- 
sents a  bright  and  well-preserved  appearance,  there  is  the  further  con- 
sideration of  the  silver  being  kept  in  good  condition  without  a  frequent 
application  of  plate  powder,  which,  however  fine  it  may  be,  ultimately 
destroys  the  plated  surface. 

A  baize  covering  for  dining-tables  cannot  be  too  strongly  recom- 
mended, for  it  enables  the  tablecloth  to  lie  better,  and  it  is  more  pleasant 
to  the  touch  with  some  soft  thick  substance  beneath  it.  Sometimes 
the  baize  is  drawn  under  the  edges  of  the  table  by  means  of  a  string 
run  through  the  hem,  but  it  may  be  stretched  more  tightly  when 
fastened  underneath  with  small  tacks,  and  this  without  the  least 
injury  to  the  table.  Grey  felt  is  preferred  by  many,  because  it  is 
less  likely  to  stain  the  cloth  than  a  coloured  substance,  and  is  also  less 
expensive. 

Tablecloths  and  table-napkins  should  be  of  as  good  a  quality  as 
means  will  afford,  alike  in  design  when  possible,  and  in  Chapter  LXVI. 
will  be  found  full  instructions  for  folding  serviettes. 

Table-linen  should  be  very  slightly  starched,  for,  if  made  too  stiff, 
the  corners  of  the  tablecloths,  instead  of  falling  in  natural  folds,  stand 
out  in  an  awkward  fashion,  and  the  table-napkins  are  unpleasant  to 
use. 

A  good  rule  is  to  allow  24  inches  for  each  person's  accommodation. 
Where  the  table  is  necessarily  a  little  too  large,  a  little  more  room  does 
not  matter,  but  on  no  account  give  less,  for  there  is  no  greater  misery 
than  to  be  crowded. 

FAMILY  AND  WEDDING  BREAKFASTS 

Breakfast. — The  word  breakfast  is  an  abbreviation  of  "  breaking  the 
fast."  The  German  word  for  this  is  "  Friihstiick  "  (early  bit),  and 
the  French  give  to  their  first  meal  the  name  of  Dejeuner  a  la  Tasse, 
because  this  early  repast  is  a  simple  one,  consisting  merely  of  a  roll,  or 
bread  and  butter,  and  a  cup  of  coffee  or  chocolate.  The  French  De- 
jeuner a  la  Fourchette  is  almost  identical  with  the  English  luncheon. 
It  generally  comprises  a  variety  of  more  or  less  substantial  dishes, 
served  with  wine  or  other  beverages,  but  not  tea  or  coffee,  unless  taken 
after  the  meal,  and  is  termed  "  Fourchette,"  because  it  consists  of 
food  eaten  with  a  fork.  The  French  Dejeuner  a  la  Tasse  really  corre- 
sponds with  the  English  "  early  tea,"  or  "  early  coffee,"  and,  like  it,  is 
generally  taken  in  the  bedroom  before  dressing.  Soup  and  bread  con- 
stitute the  morning  meal  of  many  of  the  working  classes  of  France. 

Breakfast  Dishes. — The  English  breakfast,  even  when  taken  at  an 
early  hour,  is  usually  a  substantial  one.  This  custom  no  doubt  dates 
from  a  semi-barbarous  age.  when  royal  and  noble  ladies  breakfasted 


MEALS:  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT  1679 

off  barons  of  beef  and  tankards  of  ale.  Tea  was  not  known  in  England 
until  the  seventeenth  century,  when  Catherine  Braganza,  the  wife  of 
Charles  II,  is  said  to  have  introduced  it,  and  history  records  that  tea 
found  great  favour  with  the  fair  dames  who  graced  the  Court  of  that 
period.  It  is  almost  needless  to  add  that  its  high  price  precluded  its 
general  use.  At  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century  the  cheaper 
kinds  cost  from  6s.  to  73.  per  pound,  and  about  1850  the  price  was  re- 
duced to  55.  per  pound,  but  after  the  reduction  of  the  duty  in  1865  the 
consumption  rapidly  increased. 

The  moral  and  physical  welfare  of  mankind  depends  largely  on  its 
breakfast,  yet  many  of  those  upon  whom  the  responsibility  of  provid- 
ing it  rests  do  not  realise  how  far-reaching  may  be  the  effects  of  a  good 
or  bad  meal.  A  being  well  fed  and  warmed  is  naturally  on  better 
terms  with  himself  and  his  surroundings  than  one  whose  mind  and 
body  are  being  taxed  by  the  discomfort  and  annoyance  of  badly  cooked 
or  insufficient  food.  With  a  well-stocked  larder  and  a  sideboard  sup- 
plied with  such  good  things  as  game-pies,  cold  game,  galantines  of 
chicken  or  veal,  brawn,  potted  meat,  cold  ham  and  pressed  beef,  it  is 
an  easy  matter  to  gratify  the  tastes  and  wishes  of  all,  but  no  meal  taxes 
the  ingenuity  of  middle-class  housewives  more  than  breakfast.  In 
small  households  there  is  a  constant  complaint  of  lack  of  variety,  and 
the  too  frequent  appearance  of  bacon  and  eggs,  which,  it  must  be  con- 
fessed, is  the  sheet-anchor  of  the  English  cook. 

But,  notwithstanding  this  plea  for  "  something  new,"  there  are  over 
two  hundred  ways  of  dressing  eggs,  to  say  nothing  of  grilled  chops, 
steaks,  cutlets,  kidneys,  fish  and  mushrooms,  anchovy  and  sardine  toast, 
sausage-rolls,  sausages  broiled,  boiled  or  fried,  meat  patties,  rissoles, 
croquettes  and  croutes,  fish  omelette,  fish-cakes,  fish  soused  and  ked- 
geree, pressed  beef,  galantine  of  beef,  potato-chips,  potatoes  fried  in  a 
variety  of  ways,  and  a  host  of  other  inexpensive  and  easily  prepared 
dishes.  Many  of  the  lower  working-classes  cannot,  of  course,  afford 
to  provide  some  of  the  dishes  enumerated  above,  but  the  present  work 
includes  an  almost  endless  variety  of  preparations  of  a  simple,  inex- 
pensive character,  which  might  be  advantageously  used  to  relieve  the 
monotony  of  breakfast. 

The  Service  of  Breakfast  varies  very  little,  no  matter  how  simple  or 
elaborate  the  meal.  On  the  cottage  table,  the  breakfast-ware,  teapot, 
bread,  butter,  and  dish  of  bacon,  or  whatever  constitutes  the  homely 
fare,  all  have  their  allotted  places,  although  the  arrangement  of  the 
respective  articles  may  not  agree  with  everybody's  sense  of  fitness. 
Ascending  a  degree  in  the  scale  of  life,  it  is  usually  found  that  a  touch 
of  refinement  is  added  by  plants  and  flowers.  When  the  table  is  a 
small  one,  the  centre  of  it  may  be  occupied  by  a  single  plant,  or  two 
plants  or  bowls  of  flowers  placed  equidistant  from  each  other  may 
form  the  decoration  of  a  larger  table.  Other  appointments  depend 
on  the  number  of  persons  to  be  seated  and  the  dishes  to  be  served. 


i68o         HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

When  the  meal  consists  of  one  dish,  a  knife  and  fork,  either  large  or 
small,  according  to  choice,  and  a  small  knife  for  bread  and  butter,  should 
be  laid  for  each  person.  When  fish  is  included  in  the  breakfast  menu, 
the  knife  and  fork  provided  for  the  service  must  be  placed  to  the  right 
and  left  outside  the  ordinary  knife  and  fork.  When  the  breakfast 
comprises  several  dishes,  usually  three  knives  and  two  forks  are  laid 
instead  of  one,  but  there  is  a  steadily  growing  tendency  in  this  direction, 
to  avoid  an  unnecessary  display  of  silver  and  cutlery.  A  small  plate 
for  bread  and  butter  is  placed  outside  the  forks,  and  the  serviette  is 
laid  in  the  space  between  the  knives  and  forks.  No  hard-and-fast 
rules  can  be  laid  down  for  the  disposal  of  the  cruets,  butter,  toast,  eggs, 
marmalade,  etc.,  but  they  all  appear  on  a  properly  appointed  table, 
arranged  according  to  the  space  available,  and,  of  course,  some  sym- 
metrical order  must  be  maintained.  As  a  rule,  one  end  of  the  table 
is  occupied  by  the  breakfast  ware,  sugar,  hot  and  cold  milk,  tea  and 
coffee  pots,  and  when  only  one  hot  dish  is  provided,  it  is  nearly  always 
placed  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  table.  When  cold  dishes  are  served, 
such  as  ham,  tongue,  potted  meats,  sardines,  etc.,  they  may  be  placed 
down  the  sides  of  the  table. 

Wedding  Breakfasts. — The  orthodox  wedding  breakfast  seems  likely 
to  become  a  thing  of  the  past,  so  much  has  it  been  superseded  by  the 
tea  and  reception  which  usually  follow  afternoon  weddings.  Generally 
speaking,  wedding  breakfasts  are  cold  collations,  more  or  less  elaborate 
according  to  circumstances,  and  served  d  la  Russe,  or  otherwise,  as 
may  be  preferred. 

The  wines  served  depend  greatly  upon  both  the  menu  and  the  means 
of  the  donor  of  the  feast.  Champagne  is  the  wine  most  generally 
drank,  but  all  light  wines  are  admissible. 

The  bride  always  cuts  the  first  slice  of  cake,  which  is  partaken  of  after 
the  actual  meal  is  finished.  The  cake  is  generally  cut  with  a  saw 
provided  for  that  purpose,  and  this  being  rather  a  hard  task,  the  icing 
being  somewhat  difficult  to  cut  through,  it  is  generally  considered 
sufficient  if  she  make  the  first  incision. 

LUNCHEONS. 

Luncheon,  derived  from  O.  Eng.  lunche,  prov.  F.  lochon,  a  lump  of 
bread  taken  from  the  loaf.  Another  form  of  Lump.  Cf.  Gael,  lonach, 
hungry  ;  Welsh,  llwnc,  a  gulp ;  or  fr.  O.  Eng.  nooning,  a  repast  at 
noon,  corrupted  into  noonshun,  nunchion,  nuncheon,  then  to  luncheon. 

Luncheon  Dishes. — Ordinary  luncheons,  as  a  rule,  have  fewer  courses 
than  dinner,  but  in  other  respects  they  are  almost  identical,  and  may 
comprise  hors  d'oeuvre,  soup,  fish,  meat,  poultry  or  game,  sweets  and 
savouries.  Hors  d'oeuvre  are  not  always  served,  although  they  are 
becoming  more  popular  year  by  year  ;  either  soup  or  fish  is  frequently 
omitted,  and  the  sweets  provided  are  of  a  comparatively  simple  char- 
acter, such  as  souffles,  milk  puddings,  fruit  tarts,  compote  of  fruit,  etc. 


DINNER    TABLE— C 


%d 


kSHIONED     STYLE 


MEALS:  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT  1681 

A  joint  of  meat,  a  fruit  tart  or  stewed  fruit,  or  a  suet  or  milk  pudding, 
constitute  the  luncheon  of  many  who  dine  late,  more  especially  when 
the  household  includes  children  who  share  the  midday  meal.  Or  the 
luncheon  may  consist  of  the  cold  remains  of  the  previous  night's  dinner, 
in  which  case  parts  of  birds,  tarts,  creams,  jellies,  etc.,  are  usually  made 
more  presentable  by  being  cut  into  portions  suitable  for  serving,  and 
neatly  arranged  on  a  dish.  A  tart  with  a  huge  gap  is  an  unsightly  ob- 
ject, but  it  presents  an  altogether  different  appearance  when  the  fruit 
is  placed  at  the  bottom  of  a  glass  dish,  with  the  pastry  cut  in  sections 
and  arranged  at  equal  distances  on  the  top  of  it. 

The  Service  of  Luncheon  varies  considerably,  for  while  luncheon  d  la 
Russe  may  be  said  to  predominate  in  fashionable  circles,  yet  a  very 
large  number  of  people  still  follow  the  older  custom  of  having  all  the 
hot  dishes  placed  upon  the  table. 

The  table  arrangements  for  luncheons  served  d  la  Russe  are  the 
same  as  for  dinner,  the  centre  of  the  table  being  occupied  by  nothing 
but  fruit,  flowers,  cruets,  and  other  articles  used  in  the  service.  Under 
any  circumstances,  each  cover  should  comprise  two  large  knives,  \vith 
forks  of  corresponding  size,  but  the  old  custom  of  placing  a  small  fork 
and  dessertspoon  at  right  angles  to  them  is  no  longer  followed,  except 
at  informal  meals.  When  fish  is  included  in  the  menu,  the  knife  and 
fork  provided  for  its  service  must  be  laid  to  the  right  and  left,  on  the 
outside  of  those  already  on  the  table,  and  if  soup  is  to  be  served,  a  table- 
spoon must  be  placed  to  the  right,  outside  the  fish  knife.  According 
to  present  fashion,  the  maximum  allowed  to  each  cover  is  two  large 
knives  and  forks,  one  fish  knife  and  fork,  and  one  tablespoon  for  soup, 
all  of  which  should  be  placed  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  each  other, 
and  one  inch  from  the  edge  of  the  table.  When  the  dishes  are  placed 
upon  the  table,  instead  of  being  served  d  la  Russe,  each  dish  to  be  c 
must  be  accompanied  by  appropriate  carving-knives  and  forks,  and 
each  entree,  or  sweet,  by  a  tablespoon  and  fork.  The  wine  to  be  served 
will  determine  the  number  and  kind  of  glasses  to  be  used.  If,  say, 
claret,  hock  and  minerals  are  selected,  then  tumblers,  hock  and  claret 
glasses  should  be  provided  ;  but  glasses  should  never  appear  on  the  table 
in  a  private  dining-room  unless  the  wine  to  which  they  are  appropriate 
is  to  be  served. 

The  table-napkins  should  be  placed  in  the  space  between  the  knives 
and  forks,  either  folded  in  some  neat  design  that  will  form  a  receptacle 
for  the  bread,  or  left  unfolded  with  the  bread  laid  on  the  top,  the  latter 
being  the  newer,  although  less  effective,  method  of  the  two. 

A  custom  that  is  coming  more  and  more  into  favour  is  that  of  placing 
a  very  small  cruet  to  each  cover,  or  sometimes  one  small  cruet  is  made 
to  do  duty  for  two  persons.  When  fewer  and  larger  cruets  are  used, 
each  cover  should  include  a  small  salt-cellar,  or,  what  is  still  better,  a 
small  silver  salt-dredger. 

It  is  almost  needless  to  add  that  the  disposal  of  the  dishes,  salads, 


i682  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

pickles,  butter,  sifted  sugar,  water  carafes,  sauces,  etc.,  is  determined 
by  the  number  of  dishes  and  the  space  available. 

PICNICS 

Provided  care  has  been  taken  in  choosing  congenial  guests,  and  that 
in  a  mixed  party  one  sex  does  not  preponderate,  a  well  arranged  picnic 
is  one  of  the  pleasantest  forms  of  entertainment. 

Watch  carefully  not  to  provide  too  much  of  one  thing  and  too  little 
of  another ;  avoid  serving  plenty  of  salad  and  no  dressing  ;  two  or 
three  legs  of  lamb  and  no  mint  sauce  ;  an  abundance  of  wine  and  no 
corkscrew  ;  and  such  like  little  mistakes.  Given  a  happy  party  of 
young  people,  bent  on  enjoyment,  these  are  trifles  light  as  air,  which 
serve  rather  to  increase  the  fun  than  diminish  it.  But,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  party  may  not  all  be  young  and  merry  ;  it  may  be  very  dis- 
tasteful to  some  to  have  to  suffer  these  inconveniences. 

The  easiest  way  to  arrange  that  there  should  be  nothing  wanting, 
is  to  make  out  a  menu,  adding  all  the  little  etceteras.  It  is  advisable 
to  estimate  quantities  extravagantly,  for  nothing  is  more  annoying 
than  to  find  everything  exhausted  and  guests  hungry.  Following 
is  a  list  of  articles  that  should  be  provided  in  addition  to  the  repast  : 

Wines,  bottled  beer,  soda-water,  lemonade.  Plates,  knives,  forks, 
spoons,  glasses,  tumblers,  tablecloth,  serviettes,  glass  cloths,  pepper, 
cayenne,  salt,  mustard,  oil,  vinegar,  castor  sugar,  corkscrews  and 
champagne-opener.  A  chafing  dish  and  accessories  are  very  useful 
accompaniments  to  a  picnic. 

DINNER 

Dinner,  from  Dine  ;  O.  Fr.  disner,  Fr.  diner  ;  Low  Lat.  disnare,  prob- 
from  decoenare  ;  L.  de,  intensive,  and  coeno,  to  dine  ;  or,  Fr.  diner, 
contr.  of  dejeuner ;  from  Lat.  dis,  and  Low  Lat.  jejuno,  to  fast  ;  Lat. 
jejunus,  a  fast. 

Dinners  in  Ancient  Times. — It  is  well  known  that  the  dinner-party, 
or  symposium,  was  a  not  unimportant,  and  not  unpoetical,  feature 
in  the  life  of  the  sociable,  talkative,  tasteful  Greeks  ;  their  social 
and  religious  polity  gave  them  many  chances  of  being  merry  and 
making  others  merry  by  good  eating  and  drinking.  Any  public 
or  even  domestic  sacrifice  to  one  of  the  gods  was  sure  to  be  fol- 
lowed by  a  feast,  the  remains  of  the  slaughtered  "  offering " 
being  served  up  on  the  occasion  as  a  pious  piece  de  resistance  ;  and 
as  the  different  gods,  goddesses  and  demigods  worshipped  by  the 
community  in  general,  or  by  individuals,  were  very  numerous  indeed, 
and  some  very  religious  people  never  let  a  day  pass  without  offering  up 
something  or  other,  the  dinner-parties  were  countless.  A  birthday,  too, 
furnished  an  excuse  for  a  dinner — a  birthday,  that  is,  of  any  person  long 
dead  and  buried,  as  well  as  of  a  living  person,  being  a  member  of  the 
family  or  otherwise  esteemed.  Dinners  were  of  course  eaten  on  all 


MEALS:  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT 

occasions  of  public  rejoicing.  Then,  among  the  young  people,  sub- 
scription dinners,  very  much  after  the  manner  of  modern  times,  were 
always  being  got  up,  only  they  would  be  eaten  not  at  an  hotel,  but  pro- 
bably at  the  house  of  some  leader  of  fashion.  A  Greek  dinner-party 
was  a  handsome,  well-regulated  affair.  The  guests  arrived  elegantly 
dressed  and  crowned  with  flowers.  A  slave,  approaching  each  person 
as  he  entered,  took  off  his  sandals  and  washed  his  feet.  During  the 
repast,  the  guests  reclined  on  couches  with  pillows,  among  and  along 
which  were  set  small  tables.  After  the  solid  meal  came  the  "  sympo- 
sium "  proper,  a  scene  of  music,  merriment  and  dancing,  the  two  latter 
being  supplied  chiefly  by  young  girls.  There  was  a  •  chairman,  or 
"symposiarch,"  appointed  by  the  company  to  regulate  the  drinking,  and 
it  was  his  duty  to  mix  the  wine  in  the  "  mighty  bowl."  From  this 
bowl  the  attendants  ladled  the  liquor  into  goblets,  and  with  the  goblets 
went  round  and  round  the  tables,  filling  the  cups  of  the  guests. 

Although  poets  in  all  ages  have  lauded  wine  more  than  solid  food,  pos- 
sibly because  of  its  more  directly  stimulating  effect  on  the  intellect,  yet 
there  have  not  been  wanting  those  who  considered  the  subject  of  food 
not  unworthy  their  consideration,  as  is  shown  by  the  following  lines, 
in  which  Lord  Byron  refers  to  the  curious  complexity  of  the  results 
produced  by  human  cleverness  and  application  catering  for  the  modi- 
fications which  occur  in  civilised  life  : — 

"  The  mind  is  lost  in  mighty  contemplation 

Of  intellect  expanded  on  two  courses;    . 
And  indigestion's  grand  multiplication 

Requires  arithmetic  beyond  my  forces. 
Who  would  suppose,  from  Adam's  simple  ration, 

That  cookery  would  have  called  forth  such  resources, 
As  form  a  science  and  a  nomenclature 
From  out  the  commonest  demands  of  nature  ?  " 

Adam's  ration,  however,  is  a  matter  on  which  poets  have  given  con- 
trary judgments.  When  the  angel  Raphael  paid  that  memorable 
visit  to  Paradise — which  we  are  expressly  told  by  Milton  he  did  exactly 
at  dinner-time — Eve  seems  to  have  prepared  "  a  little  dinner  "  wholly 
destitute  of  complexity,  and  to  have  added  ice-creams  and  perfumes. 
Nothing  can  be  clearer  than  the  testimony  of  the  poets  on  these 
points  : — 

"  And  Eve  within,  due  at  her  home  prepared 
For  dinner  savoury  fruits,  of  taste  to  please 
True  appetite,  ana  not  disrelish  thirst 
Of  nectarous  draughts  between.  .  .  . 
.  .  .  With  dispatchful  looks  in  haste 
She  turns,  on  hospitable  thoughts  intent. 
What  choice  to  choose  for  delicacy  best, 
What  order  so  contrived  as  not  to  mix 
Tastes  not  well  joined,  inelegant,  but  bring 
Taste  after  taste,  upheld  with  kindliest  change — 

•  •  • 

She  tempers  dulcet  creams  .  .  « 

then  strut's  the  ground 
With  rose  and  odours." 

There  is  infinite  zest  in  tfce  above  passage  from  Milton,  and  even  more 


1684  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

in  the  famous  description  of  a  dainty  supper,  given  by  Keats,  in  his 
"  Eve  of  Saint  Agnes."  Could  Queen  Mab  herself  desire  to  sit  down 
to  anything  nicer,  both  as  to  its  appointment  and  serving,  and  as  to 
its  quality,  than  the  collation  served  by  Porphyro  in  the  lady's  bed- 
room while  she  slept  : — 

"  There  by  the  bedside,  where  the  faded  moon 
Made  a  dim  silver  twilight,  soft  he  set 
A  table,  and,  half  anguish 'd,  threw  thereon 
A  cloth  of  woven  crimson,  gold  and  jet. 

*  *  * 

While  he  from  forth  the  closet,  brought  a  heap 
Of  candied  apple,  quince,  and  plum,  and  gourd ; 
With  jellies  smoother  than  the  creamy  curd, 
And  lucent  syrups  tinct  with  cinnamon  ; 
Manna  and  dates,  in  argosy  transferr'd 
From  Fez  ;    and  spiced  dainties,  every  one, 
From  silken  Samarcand  to  cedar 'd  Lebanon." 

But  Tennyson  has  ventured  beyond  dates,  and  quinces,  and  syrups, 
for  in  his  idyll  of  "  Audley  Court,"  he  gives  a  most  appetising  descrip- 
tion of  a  pasty  at  a  picnic  : — 

"  There,  on  a  slope  of  orchard,  Francis  laid 
A  damask  napkin  wrought  with  horse  and  hound ; 
Brought  out  a  dusky  loaf  that  smelt  of  home, 
And,  half  cut  down,  a  pasty  costly  made, 
Where  quail  and  pigeon,  lark  and  leveret,  lay 
Like  fossils  of  the  rock,  with  golden  yolks 
Imbedded  and  in  jellied." 

Dinner. — The  art  of  cooking  was  little  known  in  England  before  the 
sixteenth  century.  The  table  appointments  in  the  days  of  Queen  Eliza- 
beth were  rich  and  costly,  but  the  food  was  more  substantial  than  re- 
fined. The  Queen's  Closet  Opened,  published  in  1662,  in  the  reign  of 
Charles  II,  contains  recipes  for  chicken-pie,  pigeon-pie,  potted  venison, 
stewed  eels,  crab  dressed,  pancakes  and  strawberry  cake,  all  of  which 
are  of  a  much  more  refined  character  than  the  dishes  that  graced  the 
board  of  the  wealthy  classes  in  the  sixteenth  century.  Evidently  con- 
siderable progress  was  made  during  the  Stuart  dynasty,  and  more  especi- 
ally in  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne,  this  no  doubt  being,  in  some  measure, 
due  to  the  royal  lady's  appreciation  of  good  things.  Then  followed  a 
period  of  retrogression,  not  only  in  cookery,  but  in  almost  every  other 
art  and  science  ;  for  the  early  Hanoverians,  although  excellent  kings 
in  some  respects,  did  little  to  promote  the  general  welfare  of  the  people. 
Matters  were  not  much  improved  in  the  reign  of  George  III,  for  the 
tastes  of  that  monarch  and  his  homely  spouse  were  too  simple  for  them 
to  enjoy  or  provide  anything  but  comparatively  plain  fare.  But  at 
the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  a  new  order  of  things  came  into  exist- 
ence due  to  the  "  Exquisites,"  or  "  Macaronis,"  whose  one  aim  in  life 
was  to  obtain  a  reputation  for  originality  and  refinement.  Some  sought 
to  win  distinction  by  donning  gay  apparel,  others  by  endeavouring  to 
gratify,  in  some  original  manner,  the  epicurean  taste  which  one  and  all 
tried  to  cultivate.  The  notorious  extravagances  of  this  period  had  at 
least  one  good  result,  for  they  gave  a  strong  impetus  to  the  neglected 


MEALS:  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT  1685 

art  of  cookery,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  eminence  attained  by  the  Chefs- 
de-Cuisine  of  that  day.  Had  those  culinary  artists,  to  whom  we  owe 
so  much,  lived  in  the  early  Hanoverian  days  instead  of  during  the 
Regency  and  reign  of  George  IV,  in  all  probability  they  would  have 
died  unknown. 

Service  of  Dinner. — Dinner  d  la  Russe  was  introduced  into  England 
in  the  latter  half  of  the  nineteenth  century,  and  after  a  few  years'  rivalry 
with  the  dinner  d  la  Franfaise  almost  succeeded  in  banishing  the  latter. 
The  following  menus  illustrate  the  dinner  d  la  Franfaise  in  its  various 
stages  of  development.  The  first  menu,  dated  1349,  in  the  reign  of 
Edward  III,  is  divided  into  two  courses,  all  the  dishes  of  each  course 
being,  no  doubt,  arranged  on  the  table  at  the  same  time,  as  was  custom- 
ary in  the  dinner  d  la  Franfaise  of  a  later  date. 

COPY    OF  A  BILL  OF    FARE  OF    A    TWO-COURSE    DINNER    SERVED 
IN    THE    YEAR  1349. 

FIRST  COURSE. 

Browel-farsed  and  charlet,  for  pottage. 
Baked  Mallard.     Small  Birds,  Almond  milk  served  with  them. 

Capon  roasted  with  the  syrup. 
Roasted  Veal.     Pig  roasted  "  endored." 

Herons. 
A  "  leche."     A  tart  of  flesh. 

SECOND  COURSE. 

Brevet  of  Almayne  and  Viand  vial  for  pottage. 
Mallard.     Roast  Rabbit.     Pheasant.     Venison. 
Jelly.     A  "leche."     Hedgehogs. 
Pomes  de  Orynge. 

The  introduction  of  soup  into  the  second  course  is  the  most  remark- 
able feature  of  the  above  menu.  "  A  tart  of  flesh  "  was  possibly  a 
venison  pasty,  and  the  "  Hedgehogs,"  in  all  probability,  were  sweet 
dishes  similar  to  those  which  bear  the  name  in  the  present  day. 

The  following  menu,  dated  1561,  of  a  City  Banquet  in  the  early  days 
of  Queen  Elizabeth,  is  very  remarkable,  although  it  cannot  be  accepted 
as  typical  of  that  era.  We  learn  that  soup  graced  the  upper  end  of  the 
table,  and  the  roast  rabbit  the  lower,  while  on  the  right-hand  side  of 
the  table  were  placed  the  stewed  cockles  and  fried  hasty  pudding,  on 
the  left  the  poached  eggs  and  broiled  mushrooms,  and  in  the  centre 
a  dish  of  black-caps.  In  the  second  course,  the  upper  end  of  the  table 
was  occupied  by  a  dish  of  fried  sprats,  and  the  bottom  by  tripe 
"  ragoo'd  "  in  its  own  liquor,  while  rice  fritters  and  oysters  were  ar- 
ranged on  the  right,  and  eggs  a  la  mode  and  radishes  on  the  left,  the 
centre  of  the  table  being  reserved,  as  in  the  first  course,  for  the  black- 
caps. 


i686  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

OOPT   OF  BILL   OF  FARE   OF  A   TWO-COURSE   DINNER   SERVED 
IN  THE  YEAR  1561. 

FIRST  COURSE. 

Calves'  Feet  Soup. 

Stewed  Cockles.     Poached  Eggs,  with  Hop  tops. 
Roast  Rabbit.     Fried  Hasty  Pudding." 
Broiled  Mushrooms.     Black-caps. 

SECOND  COURSE. 

Fried  Sprats.     Stewed  Tripe. 

Rice  Fritters.     Eggs  a  la  Mode. 

Oysters  on  Shells.     Radishes. 

Black-caps. 

In  the  following  menu,  dated  1720.  in  the  reign  of  George  I,  the  posi- 
tion of  the  soup  in  the  first  course,  and  the  dish  of  soles  at  the  end  of 
the  second  course,  will  appear  strange  to  those  who  have  not  grasped 
the  fact  that  as  all  the  dishes  were  placed  on  the  table  at  the  same  time, 
the  menu  must  be  regarded  simply  as  a  means  of  conveying  the  know- 
ledge of  the  dishes  comprising  the  meal,  rather  than  as  an  indication 
of  the  order  of  service.  This  dinner  is  characteristic  of  a  retrogressive 
age.  during  which  cookery  in  England  was  more  substantial  than  refined. 

COPY   OF   A   BILL   OF   FARE   OF   A   TWO-COURSE    DINNER   SERVED 
IN  THE  YEAR  1720. 

FIRST  COURSE. 
A  Westphalian  Ham  with  Chicken. 

Carps  and  Scalloped  Oysters. 
Soup  with  Teal.     A  dish  of  Sucking  Rabbits. 

Salads  and  Pickles. 

A    Venison  Pasty.     Roasted  Geese. 

A  Dish  of  Gurnets.     Muble  Pie. 

Roasted  Hen  Turkey,  with  Oysters. 

SECOND  COURSE. 

A  Chine  of  Salmon  and  Smelts. 
Wild  Fowls  of  Sorts. 
A  Tansy.     Collared  Pig. 
A  Pear  Tart,  creamed. 
Sweetmeats  and  Fruits.     Jellies  of  sorts. 
A  dish  of  Fried  Soles. 

The  banquet  served  at  the  Mansion  House  in  1761,  when  George  III 
introduced  his  youthful  bride  to  the  citizens  of  London,  altogether  lacks 
the  artistic  arrangement,  refinement  and  variety  which  characterise 


MEALS:  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT  i08; 

royal  banquets  of  a  later  day.  It  differs  from  those  of  an  earlier  age, 
in  having  four  distinct  courses,  based  on  Brillat-Savarin's  plan  of  pro- 
gression from  the  more  substantial  to  the  lighter  dishes,  but  otherwise 
it  has  no  remarkable  features,  and  is  simply  interesting  as  an  illustra- 
tion of  a  new  order  of  service. 


MENU   OF   A   ROYAL   CITY   BANQUET   SERVED   TO   HIS    MAJESTY 
KING  GEORGE  in. 

LONDON:  November  9,   1761. 
BILL  OF  FARE. 
KING  AND  QUEI 
Each  four  services  and  removes. 

First  Service. 

Consisting  of  turreens,  fish,  venison,  etc. 
Nine  dishes. 

Second  Service. 

A  fine  roast  ;    ortolans,  quails,  knotts,  ruffs,  pea  chicks,  etc. 
Nine  dishes. 

Third  Service. 

Consisting  of  vegetable  and  made  dishes,  green  pease,  green  morrells, 

green  tru  tiles,  cardoons,  etc. 

Eleven  dishes. 

Fourth  Service. 
Curious  ornaments  in  pastry,  jellies,  blomonges,  cakes,  etc. 

Nine  dishes. 

EIGHT  OF  THE  ROYAL  FAMILY. 

Four  on  the  right  hand  of  the  King  and  four  on  the  left. 
Each  four  services  before  them  as  follows  : — 

First  Service. 

Consisting  of  venison,  turtle,  soups,  fish  of  every  sort,  viz.  :    Dorys, 

mullets,  turbots,  bets,  tench,  soals,  etc. 

Seven  dishes. 

Second  Service. 

Ortolans,  teals,  quails,  ruffs,  snipes,  partridges,  pheasants,  etc. 
Seven  dishes. 

Third  Service. 

Vegetables  and  made  dishes,  green  pease,  artichokes,  ducks,  tongues, 

fat  livers,  etc. 
Nine  dishes. 


i688  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Fourth  Service. 

Curious  ornaments  in  cakes,  both  savoury  and  sweet,  jellies  and 

blomonges  in  variety  of  shapes,  figures  and  colours. 

Nine  dishes. 

In  striking  contrast  is  the  appended  menu  of  a  dinner  given  in  1803. 
From  the  menu  it  will  be  seen  that  the  dinner  was  an  elaborate  one, 
and  the  order  of  service  is  typical  of  that  which  prevailed  during  the 
first  half  of  the  nineteenth  century.  Like  all  dinners  d  la  Francaise, 
it  consisted  of  first  and  second  service,  of  which  soup  and  fish  formed  no 
part,  these  being  regarded  simply  as  a  prelude  to  the  meal.  At  the 
commencement  of  a  dinner  d  la  Franfaise  the  top  and  bottom  of  the 
table  were  respectively  occupied  by  dishes  of  fish.  Two  soups,  one 
white  and  the  other  brown,  or  if  of  corresponding  colour  contrasting 
in  other  respects,  were  disposed  at  the  sides  of  the  table  with  the 
centrepiece  between  them,  the  fish  sauces  being  placed  midway  be- 
tween the  centrepiece  and  the  dish  of  fish  to  which  each  sauce  was 
appropriate.  In  the  "  First  Service  "  the  fish  was  replaced  by  the 
releves  and  the  soup  by  the  flancs,  the  hors  d'oeuvre  and  entrees 
being  disposed  at  the  corners  and  down  the  sides  of  the  table.  In 
the  "  Second  Service  "  all  the  cold  entremets,  whether  sweet  or 
savoury,  were  arranged  in  the  centre  of  the  table,  a  space  on  either 
side  of  the  centrepiece  being  reserved  for  the  flancs,  and  the  top  and 
bottom  for  dishes  of  game.  The  game  being  disposed  of,  the  dishes 
were  replaced  by  hot  sweets.  This  service  being  concluded,  cheese, 
butter  and  biscuits,  with  celery,  cucumber  and  salad  were  handed 
round,  after  which,  when  the  table  was  cleared  and  the  cloth  drawn, 
the  dessert  and  wine  were  placed  on  the  bare  shining  mahogany  of 
polished  oak,  and  thus  concluded  the  meal. 


MENU  OF  A  DINNER  SERVED  IN  1803. 

Potages. 

a  la  Imperatrice. 
a  la  puree  de  pois  verts,  a  1'Esturgeon  a  la  Chinoise. 

Poissons. 

Turbot  a  la  Water.     Truites  a  la  Beaufort. 
Water-souchet  de  Limandes. 

Hors  d'CEuvres. 
de  Niochi  au  Parmesan  de  White-bait  frits. 

Releves. 

Jambon  aux  epinards. 
Poulardes  a  la  chiory. 


MEALS:  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT  1689 

Flancs. 

Petite  pidce  de  Boeuf,  a  1'Orleans. 
Selle  d'Agneau  a  la  Royale. 

Entries. 

Bou dins  dehomard  Cardinal.     Ris  d'agneau  a  la  Toulouse.    Chartreuse 

de  cailles.     Le  vol-au-vent  a  la  Nesl6. 

Filets  de  canetons  aux  petits  pois. 

Supreme  de  volaille,  asperges. 

Noisette  de  veau  a  la  Luynes. 

Cotelettes  de  mouton  a  la  Dreuse. 

SECOND  SERVICE. 
R6ts. 

Ldvrauts.     Oisillon. 

Flancs. 
Spongada  Napolitaine.     Ramesquin  en  caisse. 

Entremets. 

Pointes  d'asperges  au  beurre  fondu.     Asperges  en  branches. 
Petits  poix  a  1'Anglaise.     Petits  pois  a  la  Fran9aise. 
Aspic  de  Homard  sur  socle.     Aspic  en  bellevue  sur  socle. 
Oeufs  de  pluviers  sur  socle.     Buisson  de  praion  sur  socle. 
Gelee  a  la  Montmorency.     Gelee  Mac6doine. 
Charlotte  d' Ananas.     Bavaroise  au  chocolat. 
Croquembouches  a  la  Reine.     Gateau  de  millefeuilles. 
Melon  en  nougat.     Bisquit  a  la  Florentine. 

When  the  dinner  is  placed  upon  the  table,  if  there  is  only  one  chief  dish, 
place  it  at  the  head  of  the  table.  If  two,  one  to  the  host  and  one  to 
the  hostess.  If  three,  one  (the  principal)  at  the  head,  and  the  other 
two  together  near  the  bottom.  If  four,  the  two  principal  at  top  and 
bottom,  the  others  at  the  sides.  Six  dishes  can  be  arranged  as  for 
four.  Seven  will  require  three  dishes  down  the  middle  of  the  table, 
and  two  on  either  side. 

The  order  of  the  courses  of  a  modern  dinner  should  be  as  follows : 
the  soup  is  very  often  preceded  by  a  Hors  d'ceuvre,  such  as  caviare, 
croutons,  sardines,  oysters,  or  other  little  appetisants. 

The  First  Course  is  usually  soup,  the  second  fish,  then  come 
the  entries  (made  dishes).  The  next  Course  joints,  then  poultry  and 
game,  and  after  these  savoury  dishes,  then  sweets,  then  cheese  and 
celery.  When  there  are  two  roast  meats  they  should  be  opposite 
colours,  i.e.  not  two  whites  nor  two  browns.  Entries  require  care  in 
handling,  there  is  nearly  always  gravy  with  them,  and  this  must  not 
be  upset  upon  the  cloth.  The  last  arrangement  of  dishes — which  cannot 
be  called  a  course,  seeing  that  the  dinner  is  virtually  over — the  dessert, 
comprises  tastefully-arranged  fruits  that  are  most  in  season. 


1690  HOUSEHOLD    MANAGEMENT 

Following  is  a  specimen  menu  : 

SPECIMEN  MENU  FOR  A  DINNER. 

FRENCH.  ENGLISH. 

Potage.  Soup. 

Consomme  a  la  Colbert.  Clear   Soup  with  Poached    Eggs. 

Poisson.  Fish. 

Turbot  bouilli.  Boiled  Turbot.     Oyster  Sauce. 
Sauce  aux  Huitres. 

Entrees.  Entrees. 

Ragout  de  Foie-gras  en  Caisses.  Goose  Liver  Ragout  with  White 

Salmi  de  Sarcelles  aux  Olives.  Sauce,  served  in  cases. 

Salmi  of  Widgeon  with  Olives. 

Releve.  Remove. 

Filet  de  Boeuf  £  la  Brillat.  Braised  Fillet  of  Beef. 

Tomates  farcies  £  1'Italienne.  Stuffed  Tomatoes. 

Roti.  Roast. 

Faisan  barde  au  Cresson.  Roast  Pheasant  with  Cresses. 

Salade  de  Saison.    Pommes  frites.  Chipped  Potatoes.     Salad. 

Entremets.  Sweets. 

Omelette  a  la  Celestine.  Omelet  with  Fruit  Preserves. 

Gelee  aux  Bananes.  Banana  Jelly. 

Bonne  Bouche.  Savoury. 

Buissons  d'£crevisses.  Dressed  Prawns. 

Dessert.  Dessert. 

TO  LAY  THE  CLOTH  FOR  DINNER 

The  cloth  itself  must  first  be  put  on  straight  and  evenly,  and  if  at 
all  creased  should  be  pressed  with  a  clean  iron  over  a  damp  cloth  ; 
next  follow  the  decorations,  and  when  these  are  complete,  comes  the 
work  of  putting  on  spoons,  knives,  etc. 

Everything  necessary  for  laying  the  cloth,  including  the  serviettes 
ready  folded,  should  first  be  brought  into  the  room,  and  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  put  the  latter  round  the  table  first,  so  that  the  same  amount  of 
space  can  be  allowed  to  each  person. 

These  occupy  the  space  between  the  knives  and  forks,  and  in  each 
should  be  put  either  a  dinner  roll  or  a  piece  of  bread  cut  rather  thick. 

Next  place  the  menu  cards,  if  these  are  used,  either  one  to  each 
person,  or  one  between  three  and  four,  if  only  a  few  are  provided. 

The  water  carafes,  cruets  and  salt  cellars  may  next  be  laid.  Of  the 
former  there  should  be  at  any  rate  one  at  each  corner  of  the  table, 
while  there  should  be  a  salt  cellar  between  every  two  persons.  We 
now  come  to  the  knives  and  forks,  and  of  these  it  is  usual  to  lay  two 
large  ones,  of  each,  flanked  to  the  right  by  a  fish  knife  and  a  soup  spoon, 
and  on  the  left  by  the  fish  fork  ;  other  knives  and  forks  are  supplied 
with  the  plates  for  the  different  courses. 


MEALS:  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT  169! 

The  question  of  what  wine  is  to  be  drunk  at  dinner  will  determine 
what  glasses  will  be  wanted,  as  the  glasses  used  for  dessert  are  put  on 
afterwards. 

Supposing,  as  is  so  often  the  case,  sherry,  champagne,  and  claret  are 
to  be  served,  put  the  proper  glasses  for  each  to  the  right  side  of  each 
person,  setting  them  in  a  triangle,  with  the  sherry  glass  (the  first  used) 
at  the  top,  just  reaching  to  the  point  of  the  knife,  but  at  a  convenient 
distance  from  it. 

The  sideboard  requires  to  be  laid  as  carefully  as  the  dinner-table 
itself,  and  everything  that  can  be  put  there  ready  for  placing  on  the 
table  afterwards,  such  as  finger  glasses,  glasses  for  dessert  wine,  dessert 
plates,  decanters,  and  knives,  forks,  and  spoons  of  every  kind  should 
be  there  ready  and  carefully  arranged.  The  decanters,  salvers,  glasses, 
etc.,  should  be  put  well  at  the  back  of  the  sideboard,  and  the  plates, 
knives,  forks,  etc.,  neatly  laid  in  front. 

When  the  dinner  is  not  carved  on  the  table,  one  specially  intended 
for  the  carver  should  be  prepared  with  carving  knives  and  forks  (the 
former  carefully  sharpened  beforehand)  of  various  kinds,  soup  ladle, 
fish  carvers,  etc.,  in  the  order  of  serving  the  dinner,  that  nothing  may 
delay  him  when  he  commences  his  duties. 

If  the  dessert  is  not  upon  the  table  during  dinner,  room  shoud  be 
found  for  it  on  a  side  table,  or  at  least  for  all  that  can  be  put  there. 

Champagne,  hock,  or  other  sparkling  wines  that  are  only  uncorked 
when  wanted,  may  find  a  place  under  the  sideboard  or  side  tables  \vh<  n 
the  ice  pails  are  to  be  found  ;  decanted  wines  are  put  on  the  sideboard. 

WEDDING,   AT  HOME,   HIGH   AND  FAMILY  TEAS 

Wedding  teas  are  very  much  the  same  thing  as  "  at  home  "  teas,  but 
are,  as  a  rule,  more  crowded  and  less  satisfactory  than  the  latter.  People 
ask  so  many  more  to  tea  than  they  would  think  of  inviting  to  the 
now  old-fashioned  wedding  breakfast,  and  the  visitors  all  come 
together,  as  the  bride  has,  as  a  rule,  but  a  very  short  time  to 
stay.  She  cuts  the  cake,  or  rather  makes  the  first  incision,  as  at  a 
wedding  breakfast,  but  there  are  no  speeches  and  but  little  ceremony. 

"  At  Home  "  teas  differ  from  the  weekly  "at  homes,"  which  have 
become  institutions  in  so  many  families  both  in  town  and  country. 
Some  entertainment  is  generally  provided,  usually  music,  professional 
singers  and  pianists  being  sometimes  engaged.  When  this  is  the  case, 
the  lady  of  the  house  does  not  often  ask  her  amateur  friends  to  give 
their  services  ;  but  sometimes  these  friends  contribute  the  music, 
and  it  is  well  to  make  a  little  plan  or  programme  beforehand,  arranging 
who  shall  be  asked  to  perform  and  apprising  them  of  the  fact  so  that 
they  may  come  prepared.  The  hostess,  even  if  she  be  herself  musical, 
has  her  time  taken  up  very  fully  with  receiving  and  looking  after  her 
guests,  and  unless  she  sings  the  first  song  or  plays  the  first  piece  should 
leave  herself  free  to  devote  herself  to  her  guests.  The  instrumental 


1692  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

pieces  chosen  on  these  occasions  should  not  be  long  ones,  and  a  good 
break  should  be  made  between  each  song,  solo  or  recitation  for  cr  n- 
versation,  people  going  more  to  these  entertainments  to  meet  their 
friends  and  have  a  chat  than  for  the  sake  of  the  music.  Introductions 
are  not  the  rule  at  "at  homes,"  but  they  can  be  made  when  there  is 
any  necessity.  The  tea  is  not  served  in  the  drawing-room  as  at  smaller 
"  at  homes,"  but  at  a  buffet  in  the  dining-room,  where  people  go  during 
the  afternoon,  or  sometimes  as  they  leave,  to  partake  of  the  light 
refreshments  provided. 

Women-servants,  or  sometimes  hired  attendants,  do  all  the  work  of 
pouring  out  tea  or  wine  or  handing  sandwiches,  etc.,  unless  gentlemen 
bring  refreshments  for  ladies  to  where  they  are  seated.  At  the  buffet, 
people  may  help  themselves  or  be  helped  by  gentlemen  if  there  be  not 
a  sufficient  number  of  attendants. 

A  weekly  "  At  Home  "  tea  is  served  upon  small  tables,  the  servant 
before  bringing  it  in  seeing  that  one  is  placed  conveniently  near  his 
mistress,  who  generally  dispenses  the  tea.  No  plates  are  given  for  a 
tea  of  this  kind,  and  the  servant  or  servants,  after  seeing  that  all  is  in 
readiness,  leave  the  room,  the  gentlemen  of  the  party  doing  all  the 
waiting  that  is  necessary. 

The  tea  equipage  is  usually  placed  upon  a  silver  salver,  the  hot  water 
is  in  a  small  silver  or  china  kettle  on  a  stand,  and  the  cups  are  small. 
Thin  "bread  and  butter,  cake,  and  sometimes  fresh  fruit  are  all  the 
eatables  given. 

High  tea. — In  some  houses  it  is  a  permanent  institution,  quite  taking 
the  place  of  late  dinner,  and  to  many  it  is  a  most  enjoyable  meal,  young 
people  preferring  it  to  dinner,  it  being  a  movable  feast  that  can  be 
partaken  of  at  hours  which  will  not  interfere  with  tennis,  boating  or 
other  amusements,  and  but  little  formality  is  needed.  At  the  usual 
high  tea  there  are  probably  to  be  found  one  or  two  small  hot  dishes, 
cold  chickens,  or  game,  tongue  or  ham,  salad,  cakes  of  various  kinds, 
sometimes  cold  fruit  tarts,  with  cream  or  custard,  and  fresh  fruit.  Any 
supper  dish,  however,  can  be  introduced,  and  much  more  elaborate 
meals  be  served,  while  sometimes  the  tea  and  coffee  are  relegated  to  the 
sideboard,  and  wine  only,  in  the  way  of  drink,  put  upon  the  table.  In 
summer  it  is  not  unusual  to  have  everything  cold  at  a  high  tea. 

At  Family  teas,  cake,  preserve,  sardines,  potted  meats,  buttered 
toast,  tea  cakes  and  fruit  are  often  provided,  in  addition  to  the  tea, 
coffee,  and  bread  and  butter.  Watercress  and  radishes  are  nice  accom- 
paniments in  summer. 

The  hours  for  family  teas  may  vary  in  many  households,  but  are 
generally  governed  by  the  time  of  the  dinner  that  has  preceded  them, 
and  the  kind  of  supper  partaken  of  afterwards.  Where  this  is  of  a 
very  light  character,  such  as  a  glass  of  wine  and  a  slice  of  cake,  or  the 
more  homely  glass  of  beer  and  bread  and  cheese,  a  6  to  7  o'clock  tea 
would  not  be  late,  and  a  few  savouries  or  eggs  would  be  needed  in 


MEALS:  THEIR  IMPORTANCE  AND  ARRANGEMENT  1693 

addition  to  the  bread  and  butter  and  cake  so  generally  found  ;  but 
where  a  substantial  supper  is  to  follow  the  tea  the  latter  would  be  of 
a  very  light  description  and  should  be  served  as  early  as  5  to  6  o'clock. 

BALL,  GUEST  AND  FAMILY  SUPPERS 

As  a  rule,  ball  suppers — with  the  exception  of  the  soup,  which  should 
be  white  or  clear — are  cold  ones,  consisting  of  mayonnaises,  game, 
poultry,  pies,  pasties,  galantines,  salads,  creams,  jellies  and  other 
sweets,  with  plenty  of  fresh  fruit  according  to  the  season  of  the  year. 
They  may  be  served  at  a  buffet  or  at  a  table,  or  tables,  where  every 
one  can  sit  down,  but  the  viands  are  the  same,  and  it  is  an  essential 
thing  that  a  ball  supper  should  be  prettily  and  daintily  laid.  The 
dishes,  being  all  put  upon  the  table,  require  more  garnishing  than  they 
would  if  served  at  dinner,  and  a  great  deal  of  taste  may  be  displayed 
in  the  arrangement  of  a  supper.  Colours  should  be  prettily  con- 
trasted ;  all  savoury  dishes  should  be  made  to  look  as  tasteful  as 
possible  with  their  various  glazings,  aspic  jelly,  fancy  skewers,  and 
plenty  of  green  should  give  relief  to  the  colour. 

Guest  Suppers  are,  as  a  rule,  cold  ones,  only  varied  by  an  occasional 
dish  of  cutlets,  scalloped  oysters,  or  fried  fish.  Fish  being  food  of 
a  light  character,  is  very  suitable  for  light  suppers,  but  heavy 
foods  are  better  avoided.  In  summer,  mayonnaises  of  fish,  rissoles 
of  chicken,  cold  poultry,  salads,  and  a  few  sweets  may  form  the  basis 
of  a  guest  supper,  and  in  winter,  soups,  cutlets,  small  birds  and  salmis 
of  various  kinds  will  be  found  acceptable  and  not  difficult  of  digestion. 

Family  Suppers. — At  these,  food  of  a  light  description  should  be 
served,  and  to  make  these  meals  enjoyable,  the  dishes  should  be  as 
varied  as  possible.  Fish  re-dressed  in  the  form  of  mayonnaises,  cro- 
quettes, or  pies,  can  easily  be  made  into  a  good  supper  dish  ;  the 
remains  of  poultry  or  game  hashed  make  a  tempting  and  savoury  one 
where  hot  dishes  are  liked,  and  all  kinds  of  odds  and  ends  can,  with  a 
little  ingenuity,  be  utilised  to  form  more  appetising  food  at  supper 
time  than  perpetual  cold  meat.  Salad  or  cucumber  should  not  be 
wanting  at  the  family  meal  in  summer,  when  such  things  are  plentiful 
and  cheap,  while  in  winter  a  few  cold  potatoes  fried  make  a  nice  addi- 
tion, or  a  well-made  potato  salad.  As  with  breakfast  dishes,  those 
for  supper  are  more  a  question  of  trouble  and  time  than  cost  ;  but  food 
that  we  can  enjoy  instead  of  food  for  which  we  have  no  relish  has  such 
a  material  difference  of  effect  upon  our  system.  We  may  conclude 
our  observations  on  the  last  meal  of  the  day  by  a  word  of  advice  to 
the  housewife,  to  have  it,  as  far  as  lies  in  her  power,  suited  to  the 
taste  of  all. 

There  is  a  prejudice  against  suppers  for  children,  and  many  little 
ones  go  hungry  to  bed,  particularly  in  summer,  when  they  may  have 
been  running  in  a  garden  since  their  early  tea.  A  very  light  supper 
of  cake  or  bread  and  butter  with  milk  or  lemonade,  according  to  taste 


1694  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

and  season,  should  be  given  to  those  children  who  have  a  long  interval 
between  tea  time  and  bed  time,  and  will  not  be  found  in  any  way 
injurious. 

HOW  TO  WAIT  AT  TABLE 

The  servants  who  wait  at  table  are  usually  a  butler  and  several  footmen, 
or  one  man-servant  and  a  parlour-maid,  but  in  many  cases  parlour- 
maid and  housemaid  only.  If  hired  waiters  are  employed,  they  must 
be  very  neatly  attired  in  a  black  dress  suit  and  a  white  necktie. 

The  women-servants  should  wear  muslin  aprons  (white)  and  collar, 
cap  and  cuffs.  They  should  be  quick-sighted,  deft-handed,  and  soft 
of  foot.  There  should  be  at  least  one  servant  or  waiter  on  each  side  of 
the  table,  at  a  moderately  large  dinner  party.  The  waiting  commences 
from  the  head  of  the  table,  and  there  must  be  assistants,  outside  the 
door,  to  bring  the  dishes  and  remove  them  entirely  from  the  room. 
When  the  dinner  is  served  on  the  table  the  waiter  must  stand  at  the 
left-hand  side  of  the  carver,  and  remove  the  covers.  As  the  soup 
comes  first,  a  plateful  is  carried  to  each  person,  unless  they  signify 
they  do  not  wish  for  any,  and  commences  from  the  one  on  the  right 
of  the  host.  The  sherry  and  claret  then  are  handed  round.  The 
moment  a  person's  plate  is  empty,  or  finished  with,  it  must  be 
quietly  taken  away,  spoon  and  all.  These  soiled  plates  are  all  carried 
to  their  proper  receptacle,  a  zinc-lined  basket  for  the  purpose,  standing 
in  a  convenient  corner  near  the  sideboard.  The  soup-tureen  is  removed 
last.  All  forks,  spoons,  and  cutlery,  when  dirty,  are  placed  in  boxes 
or  baskets  similar  to  the  plate  bucket  or  basket,  with  a  cloth  at  the 
bottom  ;  the  cloth  is  for  two  good  purposes — that  there  may  be  no 
unnecessary  noise,  and  that  the  articles  therein  shall  not  be  scratched 
or  otherwise  damaged.  The  fish  is  carried  round  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  soup,  the  attendant  having  in  the  left  hand  the  sauce-tureen, 
or  being  followed  by  another  servant  carrying  it.  All  plates  are  placed 
and  removed  by  the  waiter  at  the  left-hand  of  the  carver,  or  of  the 
person  being  served.  Sauces  are  next  taken  round,  and  then  the  wine. 
Entrees  are  almost  invariably  handed,  even  when  the  joints  are  carved 
upon  the  table.  When  the  joint  comes  on,  and  the  meat  has  been 
taken  to  the  guests  as  before,  the  vegetables  (which  are  usually  placed 
upon  the  sideboard,  and  not  on  the  table)  are  handed  about,  together 
with  a  tureen  of  gravy  for  fowls  or  birds.  The  same  process  is  gone 
through  with  respect  to  the  soiled  plates.  Dinner  over,  the  crumb- 
brushes  are  brought  into  requisition  ;  the  dessert-plates  arranged 
upon  the  table  ;  and  after  everything  is  in  proper  order,  a  few  dishes 
are  handed  round  by  the  attendants,  who  then  leave  the  room.  In 
handing  beer,  which  is  not  now  much  drunk  at  dinners  that  come  at 
all  under  the  head  of  "  party  dinners,"  or  the  aerated  waters  now 
always  given,  the  attendants  take  the  small  tray  or  salver  in  the  left 
hand,  and,  standing  at  the  left  side  of  the  guest  who  places  his  or  her 
glass  upon  it  to  be  filled,  pours  out  the  liquid  with  the  right  hand. 


TABLE  DECORATION 


CHAPTER  LXV 

The  Decoration  of  Tables  at  the  present  time  is  almost  universal,  and 
so  does  the  taste  for  it  grow  and  develop,  that  what  was  formerly  left 
in  the  hands  of  the  head  servants  in  large  establishments,  who  had  no 
difficulty  in  packing  the  heavy  epergnes  with  fruit  or  flowers,  now 
forms  a  wide  field  of  labour  for  artistic  taste  and  skill.  Hostesses  in 
the  season  vie  with  each  other  as  to  whose  table  shall  be  the  most 
elegant,  and  often  spend  almost  as  much  upon  the  flowers  as  upon 
the  dinner  itself,  employing  for  the  floral  arrangement  people  who 
make  a  profession  of  this  pleasant  occupation.  Home  decoration  is 
practised  by  those  who  have  the  time,  and  we  can  imagine  no  house- 
hold duty  more  attractive  to  the  ladies  of  the  house  than  that  of  making 
tlu-ir  tables  beautiful  with  the  exquisite  floral  produce  of  the  different 
seasons,  exercising  their  taste  in  devising  new  ways  for  employing  the 
materials  at  their  command.  Young  people  should  have  the  ta<* 
arranging  flowers  encouraged,  and  be  allowed  to  assist  in  decorating 
the  table.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  overload  the  table  with  fl- 
and  ornaments. 

Plant  Decoration. — Where  the  means  of  the  housekeeper  or  the  supply 
of  flowers  is  limited,  delicate-looking  ferns,  Japanese  dwarf  trees,  and 
other  plants  suitable  for  table  use  may  be  employed,  for  they  look  in 
many  cases  as  pretty  as  flowers,  unless  the  latter  be  most  tastefully 
arranged.  Maidenhair  looks  perhaps  prettier  than  ordinary  ferns,  but 
will  not  stand  the  heat  of  a  dinner-room  so  well.  The  plants  should  be 
placed  in  vases,  which  may  be  of  any  material,  preferably  china,  and, 
if  possible,  of  a  pattern  that  will  match  the  dinner  service.  Although 
rather  old-fashioned,  the  rustic  glass  stands,  lined  with  plate  glass,  are 
extremely  pretty.  Other  pretty  small  plant  or  fern  vases  may  be 
had  of  terra-cotta  and  coloured  china. 

Flowers  for  Decoration  should  be  those  which  are  not  very  strongly 
scented.  To  some  the  perfume  of  such  flowers  as  gardenias,  stepha- 
notis,  hyacinths  and  others  is  not  offensive,  but  to  others  the  strong 
scent  in  a  heated  room,  especially  during  dinner,  is  considered  very 
unpleasant.  Otherwise,  there  is  no  dictating  what  the  flowers  should 
be.  It  is  well  to  avoid  many  colours  in  one  decoration,  for,  even  if 
well  grouped,  they  are  seldom  as  effective  as  one  or  two  mixed  with 
white  and  green.  It  is  a  fashion  to  have  a  single  colour  for  a  dinner- 
table  decoration,  this  being  often  chosen  of  the  same  tint  as  tin- 

169* 


i6q6  HOUSEHOLD  MANAGEMENT 

hostess's  dress  or  the  hangings  of  the  room,  though  these  are  some- 
times varied  to  suit  the  flowers.  Again,  all  white  flowers  are  very 
often  employed,  relieved  by  plenty  of  foliage.  Smilax  is  a  very  popular 
table  decoration,  and  long  strips  of  it  are  often  laid  on  the  table  between 
each  person  and  left  hanging  down  the  side  of  the  cloth. 

Vases  and  Wires. — If  there  are  vases  of  all  kinds  to  select  from,  then 
almost  any  kind  of  flower  can  be  used,  but  few  people  have  many  sets 
for  dinner-table  decorations.  Some  prefer  low  decorations,  others  high 
ones,  but  there  is  one  rule  that  should  always  be  in  force,  and  that  is, 
that  the  flowers  and  their  receptacles  should  never  interfere  with  the 
line  of  vision,  but  be  above  or  below  it.  The  great  objection  to  the 
epergnes  of  olden  days  was  that  they  hid  the  guests  from  one  another. 

If  the  vases  be  coloured  ones,  of  glass  or  china,  let  the  flowers,  if 
they  cannot  be  had  of  a  corresponding  tone,  be  white  only,  mixed 
with  foliage.  If  the  vases  be  of  white  china,  use  coloured  flowers. 
Roses  look  always  best  in  low  stands  or  bowls,  or  in  specimen  tubes 
where  only  a  single  flower  is  placed.  Wire  that  can  be  easily  bent 
is  obtainable  from  any  florist,  and  is  particularly  useful  in  arranging 
high  arches,  etc.,  indeed  there  is  no  limit  to  the  ingenuity  that  can 
be  displayed  in  obtaining  pretty  and  novel  effects  with  it.  Our 
coloured  illustrations  of  dinner  tables  show  several  very  effective 
styles  of  floral  decoration. 

Small  Flower  Stands  and  Specimen  Tubes. — These  are  preferred  by  many 
people  to  large  ones,  as  it  is  so  easy  to  arrange  a  few  blooms,  the  vase 
itself  lending  beauty,  while  some  care  and  much  more  taste  is  needed 
to  make  the  larger  ones  look  pretty.  The  small  specimen  tubes  are 
particularly  useful  for  breakfast  or  tea  tables,  and  for  small  households. 

Arrangement  of  Flowers. — We  have  said  that  effect  is  marred  in  the 
arrangement  of  beautiful  flowers  by  too  many  colours  being